Central Puerto Rico

A Lush & Rugged Landscape

The central mountainous region of Puerto Rico is a lush and rugged landscape with tree covered mountains, ancient cave systems, breathtaking canyons, mesmerizing waterfalls, scenic hiking trails, coffee haciendas and Taino archeological sights. We’ve ventured to the interior of the island on previous trips, getting to explore more of its natural landscapes, biodiversity and learn about its history. 

Natural Landmarks  

The interior of the island is home to many natural landmarks worth visiting. Rent a car and road-trip through the interior to swim below waterfalls, explore caves, traverse canyons and overlook the mountains from scenic lookouts. 

Canyon Blanco.  A canyon with large white rocks and cliffs polished smooth by the river. There is a trail leading along the canyon with Taino petroglyphs, a small beach and views of the surrounding mountainside. 

• Petroglyphs.  There are well defined Taino petroglyphs dating back hundreds of years carved into some boulders throughout the canyon. The most notable are figures of babies swaddled in blankets. They’re unmarked but easily visible if you’re looking. The petroglyphs are primarily located on large boulders downriver from the bridge before entering the canyon. 

• Getting Here.  Take PR-140 and park at “Parking For El Sofa” just before a small bridge over the river. Walk down the west bank of the river and wade through it on foot before the rapids to reach the canyon trail. Alternatively, there is paid parking at Private Property a few minutes past the bridge for $10 with access to the canyon and trail. 

• Good to Know.  The canyon is one of the most beautiful sights on the island but is difficult to reach. There is no cell service here. Download offline maps before traveling to the canyon. Don’t go on rainy days. Flash floods and rising waters are common. 

Cueva Ventana.  A cave that leads underground through multiple chambers with bat colonies, stalactites and stalagmites before reaching a cliffside opening that overlooks the valley and river below. From here, Taino petroglyphs can be seen as cave birds and bats flutter into and out of the window like opening of the cave. It’s located 15 minutes from the city of Arecibo. Make reservations online ahead of time. 

Cueva La Clarito.  A cave with a large chamber, giant flow stone, stalactites, stalagmites and petroglyphs dating back thousands of years. It’s accessible along the tour to Cueva Ventana. 

Gozalandia Falls.  A waterfall over a smooth rock cliff with a natural swimming pool below it. Upstream are several river pools and another waterfall with a natural swimming pool. Parking costs $10. There is restaurant and bar at the entrance selling fresh coco frio (cold coconuts).

Doña Juana Waterfall.  A 100ft tall waterfall with a swimming pool at its base, It’s a popular roadside stop in the central mountains with a restaurant and bar. 

Lago dos Bocas. A mountain lake created by a dam popular with locals for fishing and kayaking. It’s located 20 minutes from the city of Arecibo. 

Cerro Las Tetas.  A mountain range known for its twin peaks that resemble a pair of breasts. It’s visible from various roadside overlooks and pull offs along Highway 1 in Salinas. 

Cerro de Punta.  The tallest point on the island measuring 4,390 feet above sea level. Park along the road, Ruta Panoramica (PR-143), at the trail head and hike about 20 minutes to reach the summit. On a clear day, there are views across the island. Be cautious of the wasp nests in the bushes at the lookout.

El Yunque National Forest.  A rainforest full of lush tropical vegetation, waterfalls with natural pools, hiking trails, lookout towers, tree snails and frogs. Read more about El Yunque in our Eastern Puerto Rico Guide. 

Adventure Tourism

The rugged interior of the island is a popular place for adventure tourism and contrasts with the golden beaches surrounding the island. Come here to overlook Puerto Rico from its tallest peak, speed down one of the world’s longest zip-lines and hike miles up a river canyon. 

Tanama River Eco-Adventure.  On a guided tour, we hiked up the Tanama River, a river located in a canyon with steep walls, overgrown cliffs, small waterfalls and stalactite covered caves. Hiking through the forest to reach the river. Our guide, pointed out flora invasive to the island, toxic vegetation and medicinal plants. Once reaching the river, we plunged in and began a miles long journey upstream, swimming against the current, wading through the water and crawling into dark caves. On our return, we floated downstream and let the current lazily carry us back the starting point. Along the way, we learned that the Tanama River is the original route the Taino people traveled to navigate between the coast and the mountains. We booked the experience through Viator.

Toro Verde Adventure Park.  An adventure park high in the mountains known for two of the world’s longest zip lines, suspension bridges and smaller zip lines. 

• The Monster.  The zip line measures over 1.5 miles long and spans between two lush mountains above a 1,000 feet deep canyon. Unlike typical zip lines, on The Monster, you lay flat in a cocoon flying between the mountains reaching speeds over 90 miles per hour. 

• The Beast.  The park’s other super long zip line. We have yet to ride this one but have it on our list for next time. 

• Toro Bikes.  A zip line with bikes attached to the cable and used to peddle back and forth between towers. 

• Good to Know.  The park is located about 2 hours from San Juan. Book tickets online in advance and prepare to wait in-line for over an hour for your chance at riding The Monster or The Beast. Phones and cameras are not permitted. Photos are available for sale.

The Land of The Tainos

The central mountainous region was home to the Taino people, a pre-Columbian culture that populated the Puerto Rico and other Caribbean islands hundreds of years ago. Today, several archeological sights including ceremonial grounds, detailed petroglyphs and museums with artifacts from the Tainos are on display throughout the region. 

Cemí Mountain.  A mountain with 3 distinct peaks that held spiritual and cultural important to the Taino people. Many artifacts have been found shaped in the likeness of the mountain.  

Caguana Ceremonial Indigenous Heritage Center.  A Taino archeological park at the base of the sacred Cemí Mountain with outdoor ball courts and stone monoliths carved with ornate petroglyphs of humanoid figures, condors and a fish. The sight is one of the most important Taino archeological sights in the Caribbean. 

Caguana Ceremonial Indigenous Heritage Museum. A museum with hundreds of Taino artifacts including: tools made from manatee bone and shells, remnants of clay pottery, stone axe heads, stone ceremonial belts and statues representing the Cemí Mountain. 

La Piedra Escrita.  A massive river boulder with Taino petroglyphs including faces, swirling formations and an iconic frog. Many locals come here to swim in the natural pool at the base of the boulder. 

El Cemí Monument Museum.  A museum built in the shape of a giant Cemí with exhibits that promote and celebrate the Taino culture and people. It houses Taino artifacts including wooden vomit spatulas, tools made from bone and shells, clay pottery, stone axe heads and statues representing the Cemí Mountain. There is a grave of a Tiano woman outside of the museum. 

Coffee Haciendas 

The mountainous region provides the perfect climate and conditions for coffee farming. There are dozens of coffee haciendas across the region growing beans for cafes across the island and offering tours of their farms. 

Hacienda San Pedro. A coffee hacienda with a cafe, shop, museum, processing factory and farm stand with local produce, honey and juices. 

Good to Know.  Many of the coffee haciendas are remote and have inconsistent hours making them difficult to visit. Call ahead to confirm hours and availability. 

Getting Around

By Car.  The only way to get around the central mountainous region is by car, preferably one with all wheel drive. Many of the roads twist and turn around the mountainsides and steep valleys. 

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

Having visited Puerto Rico nearly 20 times, we’ve experienced many places across the island. Though we don’t live here, we consider ourselves non-local experts and one day hope to call this beautiful island our home. Explore the colorful and colonial streets of Old San Juan. Experience Puerto Rican culture in the capital city of San Juan. Head to the southern coast of Caribbean Puerto Rico. Hike the El Yunque Rainforest in Eastern Puerto Rico. Visit the surf towns along Western Puerto Rico. Get off the mainland to visit the islands of Culebra and Vieques.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around the interior and mountainous regions of Puerto Rico including: 

• Explore Arecibo.  Spend a weekend exploring the beaches, sea arches and caves in Arecibo. 

• Rio Camuy Caves.  A vast cave system with an underwater river, large caverns, stalactites, stalagmites, rock formations and colonies of bats. It located about an hour from San Juan between the central mountains and the town of Arecibo. 

• Hike Cerro Mime.  A steep grassy mountain peak with views of the surrounding valleys. 

• Toro Negro State Forest.  A forested area in the central mountainous region with hiking trails, waterfalls, mountain peaks and camp grounds.

• River Caving Tour.  Join a kayaking tour through one of the mountainous rivers and caves. El Batay Adventures across from the Caguana Ceremonial Indigenous Heritage Center offers excursions. 

Caribbean Puerto Rico

The Caribbean Coast

Puerto Rico’s Caribbean Coast offers a tropical and cultural escape to some of the island’s best gems. The coast features unspoiled beaches, protected marine reserves, a bioluminescent bay, a dry forest and pink salt flats. It is also home to Indigenous cultural sites and the colonial city of Ponce.

Ponce

Known as “The Pearl of the South,” Ponce is famed for its architecture, cultural sights and annual carnival festivities. We spent a week here, celebrating Carnaval and exploring other areas along the Caribbean Coast. 

Architectural Styles 

Ponce is a historic city with multitudes of architectural styles and colorful buildings. We spent an afternoon wandering the streets to see the mix of Creole, Colonial, Neoclassical, Spanish Revival, Miami Art Deco, Arabesque and 90s Modernist style buildings. 

An Underdog 

The city is a bit of an underdog; recovering from hurricanes, earthquakes and the effects of the pandemic. Though quieter and less traveled to, it has a charming local ambiance that can’t be overlooked. Like many Ponceños, we’re rooting for this beautiful city!

Sights & Museums

Plaza de las Delicias.  The lush town square and historical center of Ponce with monuments, statues, landmark buildings and adjacent restaurants.  

• Fuente de los Leones.  A large two tiered fountain with statues lions, a symbol of strength and of Ponce.

• Ponce Cathedral.  A large light blue and white neoclassical cathedral that divides the plaza. 

• Parque de Bombas.  Ponce’s iconic red and black striped former fire station and now museum. 

Museo de la Historia de Ponce.  Ponce’s historical museum with galleries explaining the significance of the city, its history, politics, architecture and cultural impacts on Puerto Rico as a whole. A local historian, Ronald, gave us a tour, recommended places to eat in Ponce and nearby places to visit. 

Museo Castillo Serrallés.  A large mansion overlooking the city that once belonged to a sugar cane & rum baron. It’s now a museum and event venue with lush gardens and city views. Come to tour its grounds and interiors while sipping on a Don Q piña colada from its cafe. 

La Guancha.  A waterfront boardwalk and beach with restaurants, kiosks, a marina and an observation tower. Hurricane Fiona caused structural damage to the boardwalk and its since been condemned. Many restaurants have since opened food trucks along a road in the parking area. 

Centro Ceremonial Indígena de Tibes.  A free archeological museum dedicated to the Tiano people with exhibits displaying artifacts including pottery, stone tools, shell jewelry and human remains. A short walk behind the museum is an open air exhibit with uncovered petroglyphs, stone platforms, ball courts and a plaza. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Campioni Pizza Birra & Tapas.  A popular restaurant for Puerto Rican style pizza (thin crust pizza cooked in a wood fired oven). Order the fruto del mar pizza topped with shrimp, calamari and octopus to and a sangria.

Lola Eclectic Cuisine.  An elevated restaurant serving international cuisine. Try the tuna tartare wonton tacos, grilled salmon on a taro cake, sea bass over lentils and ice-cream on a fried plantain. 

Mariscos Patio Beach.  A roadside seafood kiosk overlooking the Caribbean with fresh and fried seafood dishes. Try the octopus salad, shrimp salad and tostones. 

Tazza D' Oro Caffé.  A breakfast and brunch spot across from Plaza de las Delicias. Try the egg quesadilla or eggs Benedict on brioche. They serve Gusto’s coffee, a Puerto Rican coffee roaster. 

Con Leche.  A breakfast and brunch cafe. Try the Mallorca egg sandwich or breakfast wrap made with eggs and salsa rojo.

Chango Bar.  A dive bar named after the little black birds seen across Puerto Rico. Come here for a Medalla or glass of Don Q served neat. 

Carnaval Ponceño (Festival of Masks)  

Ponce’s week long carnival festival included nightly events, parades, performances and the famous Vejigantes leading up to carnival Tuesday. 

Vejigantes

Carnaval Ponceño, also known as The Festival of Masks, is famous for the Puerto Rican Vejigantes, elaborately painted paper mache masks decorated with pointed horns, jagged teeth and worn with colorful jumpsuits. The Vejigantes are the symbol of the carnival and traditionally act as a reminder of evil spirits. Nowadays, they’re an expression of Puerto Rican culture. 

The Festival 

Plaza de las Delicias is turned into a fair with food, drink and craft vendors, amusement park rides & a main stage hosting musical performances and announcing the events on the carnival. Unlike what’s typically expected from carnival, Ponce’s is very family friendly.

Food vendors fry all types Puerto Rican dishes like mero (grouper), mofongo bites (mashed plantain), bacalaitos (cod fritters) and cheese. Full bars serve medalla, the local beer, and a list of cocktails like piña coladas, cuba libres and rum punch. Craft vendors sell handmade items like Vejigante pins, masks, horns and painted jackets. We bought and wore a pair of horns, similar to the full face masks worn by the Vejigantes.

The Main Parade 

The main parade is the largest event of the carnival celebrations with Vejigantes, marching bands, floats, the queens of the carnival, classic cars & loud speaker trucks. The parade travels west down Calle Reina towards Plaza de las Delicias and ending in front of the main stage. The parade happens on Sunday afternoon before carnival Tuesday. It started around 2:30pm and lasted into the evening with festivities lasting even longer. Most people arrive by late morning and set up chairs along the shaded side of Calle Reina for the best views. 

Guanica

Referred to as the “Paraíso del Eterno Verano,” of the Paradise of Eternal Summer, Guanica is a sunny region with white sand beaches, dry forests and coastal look out points.  

Playa Santa. A popular white sand beach with turquoise waters, kayak rentals and beach restaurants. Stop for drinks at Mojito Beach Bar & El Anclan Flontante for all kinds of fried empanadas like fish, lobster, conch, octopus and shrimp. 

Guanica State Forest.  A dry forest home to many species of cacti, thorny evergreens and coastal mangroves. The park is divided by the Guanica Bay with several hiking trails that lead to beaches, rock formations and ruins. It’s designated as a UN bio-reserve. Located 30min west of Ponce.

• Fuerte Capon.  The ruins of a small fort overlooking the Guanica Bay and forest. Start at the visitor center and hike follow the 6 mile trail to hike here or park at Playa Jaboncillo beach and follow the shorter 30 minute trail to Fuerte Capon.

• PR-333.  A scenic coastal road with views of the dry forest and Caribbean Sea. There are many beaches, scenic pull offs and hiking trails along the way.

• Pro Tip.  The visitor center closes at 4pm and doesn’t allow people to begin hiking longer trails after 2pm. 

La Parguera Nature Reserve 

A marine reserve located in the fishing town of La Parguera. The reserve is made up of over 30 cayos, mangroves, sand bars, coral reefs and a bioluminescent bay. The only way to explore the reserve is by boat. We hired a captain for 5 hours with Joy Tours PR to bring us to different cayos in the reserve. 

They Cayos

Cayo Caracoles & Robo la Gata.  Two cayos with a shallow sand bars and clear turquoise water protected by the reefs and mangroves. Underwater trails lead through the mangroves and into the reef. They’re a popular spot for swimming, snorkeling, relaxing and partying. We spent the afternoon lounging in a raft, tanning in the sun and drinking Caribbean rum. 

Good to Know:

• Bring all food and drink with you for the day. 

• Wear water shoes to avoid sea urchins and broken coral. 

• Some cayos were closed due to damage from Hurricane Fiona. 

• Many boats often dock here on the weekends while the weekdays are quiet. 

La Parguera Bio Bay 

One of three bioluminescent bays in Puerto Rico, and the only one that people are allowed to swim in. Arriving on a tour boat at night, we jumped into the water causing a bright blue cloud of bioluminescence to form around us. As we swam in the warm salty water, it glowed bright blue with every movement, sparkling on our skin. It was a surreal experience that felt like swimming in a pool of glitter. 

We booked with Paradise Scuba. Our tour included unlimited medallas and 2 fired vegetarian empanadas. We stoped at Cayo Caracoles to swim at sunset before making our way to the bio bay. We spent about half an hour in the bio bay before returning. Out of all 3 bio bays in Puerto Rico, this one was our favorite experience! 

Pro Tips. The best time to visit this bio bay is on a fully dark, moonless night, after a sunny day and at least five days after the last rain. Bring a hoodie for the boat ride back. After swimming it gets cold.

Parguera Restaurants

There are many restaurants and bars along the main road in the city center of La Parguera. Most serve seafood, Puerto Rican dishes and rum based cocktails. 

Puerto Parguera Restaurant.  A seafood restaurant with dishes like octopus salad, whole fried red snapper and seafood paella. We splurged and ordered a grilled Caribbean lobster with a side of maduros (fried sweet plantains).

Isla Cueva.  A restaurant and bar with over a dozen burger options including beef, chicken, pork, fish and vegan. We ordered the fried mahi mahi burger, piña colada and sangria. It’s a great spot to come before or after visiting the bioluminescent bay tour. 

Cabo Rojo

A picturesque corner on the south west side the island with pink salt flats, desert-like terrain and turquoise Caribbean waters. 

Cabo Rojo Salt Flats

Famous for their pink and light blue hued salt ponds. Upon arrival, we parked at the visitor center. It has a quaint museum with information on the surrounding ecosystem, the indigenous history behind the salt ponds and their use today. They also sell bottled water and have a restroom if needed.

Across from the visitor is a 3 story tall observation tower overlooking the salt flats. It offers a great vantage point to take in all of the different colored ponds. Further down the road is an entrance to the salt ponds where we walked across the narrow pathways separating each pond. The salt flats are open from 8:30am-4:30pm

Cabo Rojo Trails

There are a few nature trails that weave through the salt flats and desert-like terrain. We spent about two hours hiking through them and exploring the area. When coming here, wear sun protection, bring a sturdy umbrella and plenty of water. 

Observation Tower Loop.  A trail leading through the dry forest from the visitor center to an observation tower overlooking a large salt pond.

Ruins Trail.  A trail that cuts across two large salt ponds, past a pile of salt, to a series of smaller ones and ends at the sea. The trail connects to the Observation Tower Loop and Bikes Trail.

Bikes Trail.  A long trail that weaves throughout the salt flats, frequently used by mountain bikers  

Coastal Sights 

Playa Sucia.  A crescent shaped beach covered in soft white sand hugging a turquoise bay. There are no nearby restaurants so bringing food, snack and water is a must. It’s a popular beach despite being semi remote and best to arrive early to find parking and a shaded spot under the trees. From here, we hiked to Faro Los Morrillos Lighthouse.

Faro Los Morrillos Lighthouse.  A cliffside lighthouse with panoramic views of the Caribbean. There are hiking trails throughout the peninsula, rock formations and steep jagged cliffs. 

Maunabo

A remote town on the far southeast side of Puerto Rico with lengthy natural beaches along the Caribbean Sea. 

Playa Los Bohios.  A pristine yellow and black sand beach lined with palm trees and views of the mountains. The water can be dangerous for swimming due to currents. 

Faro de Punta Tuna.  A historic Spanish lighthouse overlooking Playa Los Bohios and Punta Tuna Beach.

Punta Tuna Beach.   A secluded palm lined yellow sand beach. The beach is not safe for swimming but makes for a beautiful setting for a relaxing afternoon. 

Ecuarican Bar Restaurant.  A restaurant with Ecuadorian and Puerto Rican fusion cuisine. It’s perched high on a cliff with an outdoor deck overlooking the coast. Come here for the mixed seafood ceviche and empanadas. 

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Chillo Frito Entero.  A fried red snapper served whole with crispy skin, tender meat and squeezed with lime. It’s usually accompanied by fried plantains like tostones, mofongo or amarillos. 

Mofongo.  Fried plantain mashed with garlic and butter. It’s often served plain or stuffed with an option of seafood. If prepared with bread fruit and yucca, it’s known as trifongo. 

Empanadillas.  Puerto Rican style fried empanadas stuffed with a range of fillings like octopus, conch, cod, shrimp, crap and pizza. 

Pinchos.  Grilled meats served on a stick often served at beaches or roadside kiosks. Our favorites are shark and shrimp. 

Mojo Isleño.  A savory sauce made from tomato, onion, bell pepper, garlic, olives and bay leaves. It’s often served on fried red snapper, lobster or mixed with octopus and conch.

Mallorca.  A Puerto Rican pasty often shaped like a bun or swirled roll and dusted in powered sugar. Our favorite preparations are pressed with guava with cheese or egg and cheese. 

Coco Frio.  A cold and freshly opened coconut. Drink the coconut water inside then the sweet meat inside. Alternatively, enjoy it with coconut rum to create a tropical cocktail 

Rum.  Puerto Rico is unarguably the rum capital of the Caribbean with several distilleries and local brands served in bars across the island. Order it on the rocks, in a Pina Colada or other tropical cocktail. 

Medalla.  The island’s most popular local beer, recognizable by it’s small golden can. It has a light slightly nutty flavor and is served everywhere. Buy a 6 pack for the beach!

Getting Around

Fly into Ponce.  Ponce has a small airport with several flights per day operated by Frontier and Jet Blue. It’s located 15 minutes from the city center. 

Rent A Car.  Renting a car is necessary to get around anywhere on the south side of Puerto Rico outside of Ponce. There are multiple car rental companies at the airport. 

Driving Between Towns: 

• Cabo Rojo is about 1 hour 30 minutes west of Ponce. 

• La Parguera is about 1 hour west of Ponce.

• Guanica is 30-45 minutes west of Ponce.

• Salinas is about 45 minutes east of Ponce. 

• Maunabo is about 1 hour 30 minutes east of Ponce. 

Where to Stay

Casa Luna.  An inexpensive hotel in a neon green creole style building located 2 streets away from Plaza de las Delicias in Ponce’s city center. It has multiple private rooms with bathrooms, a public patio and outdoor kitchen. Book on Airbnb.

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

Having visited Puerto Rico nearly 20 times, we’ve experienced many places across the island. Though we don’t live here, we consider ourselves non-local experts and one day hope to call this beautiful island our home. Experience Puerto Rican culture in the capital city of San Juan. Explore the colorful and colonial streets of Old San Juan. Hike the El Yunque Rainforest in Eastern Puerto Rico. Visit the surf towns along Western Puerto Rico. See the indigenous Taino sights of Central Puerto Rico. Get off the mainland to visit the islands of Culebra and Vieques.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around the southern side of Puerto Rico including: 

Isla Caja De Muertos (Coffin Island).  A secluded nature reserve off the coast of Ponce home to a dry forest, many species of birds, coral reefs for snorkeling and diving, sandy beaches, turquoise water, hiking trails and mangroves. It can only be reached by boat however most ferries and tour operators have stopped visiting the island since hurricane Fiona and a series of earthquakes. 

Explore Yacuco.  Spend a day exploring the colorful hillside community and its nearby coffee haciendas.

Western Puerto Rico

Tropical Paradise 

The western coast of Puerto Rico a tropical paradise with surf towns, palm lined beaches and sunset views. It’s best known for the districts of Rincón and Aguadilla. The relaxing atmosphere is best enjoyed on a surf board at sea or under an umbrella on shore with a piña colada in hand. 

Rincón

Rincón is a tropical destination famed for its surfing, laid back vibes and large “expat” population. The district is centered around two main areas, Centro Puntas and Rincón Pueblo. Each has their own atmosphere, beaches and nightlife. 

Centro Puntas.  A sleepy stretch of Rincón dotted with colorful homes, verdant hillsides and beaches that wrap around the island far western point. Surf schools provide lessons while oceanfront restaurants provide offer views of surf breaks. The 

Rincón Pueblo.  The town center is a hub for activity in Rincón while capturing the laidback vibes of the island’s west coast. It’s home to weekly markets, cocktail bars, roadside cafes, island boutiques and Puerto Rican restaurants.

Surf & Snorkeling Beaches 

Rincón is the surf capital of Puerto Rico. It’s the point where the Caribbean Sea and Atlantic Ocean meet providing consistent waves year round. The winter months offer the best surf conditions with larger waves caused by strong Atlantic winds. Surfers of all levels can be seen riding waves from sunrise until sunset. There are multiple surf schools and board rentals near the beaches. 

Don Antonio’s Beach.  A beautiful beach with a coral reef located just off shore. The reef makes it a quiet and peaceful place to sunbathe or relax under the shade of the palm trees. It’s a popular beach for surfers to practice and catch waves. 

Playa Maria.  A very popular surfer’s beach for all levels of experience. Instructors offer lessons and rentals while shops sell surf gear. It’s great location to spot sea turtles and snorkel in the beautiful coral gardens on a calm day. The shallow but long shore offers a range of places to hideout under the palms and enjoy the tropical vibes.

Domes Beach.  Named after the giant white dome, a deactivated nuclear reactor, towering above the palm trees. Its placement offers a stark juxtaposition to the pristine nature surrounding it. The beach itself is popular with experienced surfers and for surf competitions. 

Sandy Beach.  A golden sand stretch of shoreline perfect for sunbathing, bodysurfing, swimming and surfing. There are a few boutique hotels overlooking the shore, nearby restaurants, cafes and bars. Multiple surf schools are based in the area along with a shipping container with surfboard and boogie-board rentals. A 4 hour rental for $25 or an 8 hour for $35.

Dogman Beach.  A very small beach with a reef on either side. It acts as a launching point for surfers to safely paddle out. It’s located just south of Playa Maria. 

Pro Tip.  Surf earlier in the morning before the waves become too choppy. 

Steps Beach.  A snorkeling beach with healthy coral formations and many species of fish. We snorkeled over large formations of elkhorn coral and spotted parrot fish. During low tide, there are shallow tide pools where families relax with children. The beach is named for a set of concrete steps washed up onshore. It’s also a great spot to look for sea glass. 

Playa Dona Lala.  A sandy beach with a deep shoreline and calm aquamarine waters. It’s the perfect place to swim and relax under the Caribbean sun. Vendors rent umbrellas, beach chairs and jet skis. There is a small plaza with cafes & restaurants behind the beach parking lot. It’s only about a 10-15 minute walk from Plaza Pública de Rincón.

Rincón Surf School

A surf school near Sandy Beach with board rentals and a range of lessons. We booked a 3 day surf class with 3 hour morning lessons starting at 8am. After some onshore basics, the paddled out to begin surfing!

• Day 1 - Dogman Beach.  The first day focused in the basics of paddling, standing up and balancing while riding the waves. With the push of our instructor, we were able to catch and ride several waves! 

• Day 2 - Playa Maria.  The second day was very similar to the first but at a different beach. With practice, we were able to catch several more waves with less assistance. An onshore photographer even snapped a few photos! While waiting in the lineup, we spotted sea turtles swimming in the reef beneath our boards. It was a magical experience. 

• Day 3 - Playa Don Antonio.  My third and final surf lesson was the most rewarding. We were able to watch for, catch and ride about half of the waves without the help of our instructor. From never having surfed before to riding waves on my own felt so rewarding. 

A surf lesson in Rincón is worth every moment for anyone who loves the ocean! It’s a mix of high energy and relaxation while being surrounded by stunning nature. The only advice to anyone learning to surf is be ready to paddle a lot! It’s all worth it once you ride a wave! Book Lessons Here. 

Rincon Sights 

Punta Higüero Lighthouse.  Located at the south end of Domes Beach is a Spanish style lighthouse and lookout point. It’s a nice place to watch surfers, spot for whales or enjoy a meal and drink at the cliffside restaurant, Ola Sunset Cafe.

Tres Palmas Reserve Path.  A nature and biking trail along the Caribbean coast and a gated cattle field north of Steps Beach.

Domes Trail.  A coastal nature trail north of Dome’s beach and around the nuclear reactor. It passes multiple smaller secluded beaches. 

Plaza Pública de Rincón.  This plaza is the heart of Rincón Pueblo. It hosts weekly events like the Rincon Art Walk and Farmer’s Market. 

Events & Markets 

Rincón Art Walk.  On Thursday nights, the plaza comes to life with artists and vendors selling handmade jewelry, sea glass, decorated drift wood, scenic paintings, local photographs, wooden cookware, oils, soaps, etc. At the same time, live musicians and performances entertain crowds in the center of the plaza. All the while, people sipping on ice cold medallas and tropical cocktails spill out of bars onto the surrounding streets. The art walk typically lasts from 5-10pm while the nightlife continues into the early morning. 

Rincón Farmers Market.  On Sunday mornings, the plaza transforms into a farmers market. Vendors set up under white tents selling locally grown produce, tropical flowers, potted herbs, baskets of eggs, empanadas, fresh squeezed orange juice, vegan meals and organic oils. The market is open from 8am until the early afternoon.

Surf Shops & Boutiques 

Centro Puntas features several surf shops, while Rincón Pueblo offers boutique specializing in handmade goods and home decor. A few we love visiting are:

Rincón Surf Market.  Located under Kahuna Burger Bar. Come here for clothes, beverages, jewelry, surf boards and sun block. The owner owns the restaurant above, hotel and surf school.

Stoked : Surf + Espresso.  A surf shop and cafe at Playa Maria. It’s a great place to come before or after surfing for coffee, juice, baked goods or surf equipment.

Mango Beach Surf Shop. Come here for souvenir t-shirt’s, hoodies, sunblock and aloe vera.  

Trove.  A beautiful home goods store with desert vibes and tropical aesthetics. They sell items made from dried grasses, handwoven area rugs, textural pillows embossed with palm trees and sand colored objects.

The Uncharted Studio.  A tropical boutique specializing in beachwear, jewelry, artwork and hand made items. 

Places to Eat & Drink

There are many amazing cafes, restaurants and bars across Rincón, here are some of our favorites in Centro Puntas and Rincón Pueblo. 

Kahuna Burger Bar.  A local favorite near Sandy Beach. Come here for the mahi mahi and veggie burgers. Add a grilled pineapple for a tropical twist. Their bar is open late, offering rum punch for $4. 

Jakes Java House.  A road side coffee shop with smoothies and açaí bowls next to Sandy Beach. 

Jack’s Shack.  A roadside restaurant with breakfast tacos, egg sandwiches and iced coffee served from a food truck and trailer. 

Caddy’s Calypso.  A surf bar & restaurant at Playa Maria. Come here for their double rum cocktails, mahi mahi tacos, nachos & coconut shrimp. 

Tamboo.  A restaurant on Sandy Beach with Caribbean views, Puerto Rican seafood and tropical cocktails. Try the mahi ceviche, and watermelon tuna tartare with tostones. Order the hibiscus rum cocktail. 

La Rosa Inglesa.  A hotel restaurant perched on the hills overlooking Rincón. Come here for their brunch menu including flights of tropical mimosas, fresh fruit bowls, latin egg dishes and shrimp hollandaise Benedicts. 

The Beach House.  A restaurant, bar, hotel and surf shop with a line up of white chairs overlooking the forested coast behind Dome’s Beach. Come here to enjoy a drink, sunset, the view or all of the above.

Ola Sunset Cafe.  A cliffside restaurant overlooking Dome’s Beach and the Caribbean Sea. Come here to spot migrating whales and watch the sunset while eating empanadas and sipping on large tropical mojitos. 

La Sirena.  A nautical themed restaurant with sushi, seafood dim sum and cocktails served in classic tiki mugs.

Harbor Restaurant.  A popular beachfront seafood restaurant. Order a classic rum cocktail, try the whole fried red snapper and a side of crab tostones. 

La Marketa.  A restaurant and bar in downtown Rincon and the former location of the city’s market. They keep the market alive with tables of craft vendors on Sunday morning. Come to play darts and corn hole while sipping on a medella. We ordered the fish burger with yucca fries and mahi mahi skewers. 

Paletados.  Stop in for ice cold paletas (popsicles) on a hot afternoon. They offer tropical, fruit and dessert flavors with a range of toppings. 

Good to Know: Carry cash. Many businesses are cash or Venmo only.

Aguadilla 

Aguadilla is the entrance to the west side of Puerto Rico. It’s home to the west’s main airport, renowned beaches and daily sunset views.

Crash Boat Beach

Famous across the island for its concrete pier that juts out and branches into the bay. People of all ages line up to jump, dive and cannon ball from it into the calm blue water. On shore, people eagerly await grilled pinchos like skewered shark and buttered shrimp while sipping drinks including ice cold Medalla or piña colada made with Don Q. Vendors rent chairs and umbrellas for $5 a piece and offer tours of the bay on jets skis or inflatable banana boats.

Good to Know.  Recent hurricanes and tropical storms have collapsed parts of the pier. While not what it once was, it’s still a joy to jump from.

Aguadilla Pueblo

In the city center of Aguadilla, people stroll down a concrete promenade while others relax along the golden sand beach. At the same time, fishermen return from sea on small boats with the day’s catch and artists sell items including crocheted beachwear, home made candies and hand painted ceramics. 

Cerro Cabrera.  A colorful hillside community with dozens of painted houses and apartment rentals. 

El Parterre.  A plaza with a natural spring and stream passing through it in the center of the downtown. 

The Promenade 

Along the promenade are several kiosks and restaurants serving coffee, pastries, fried food, the fisherman’s catch, tropical cocktails, frozen paletas and a range of Puerto Rican cuisine. As night falls and the sun sets, locals in cars with souped up speakers and buses with equipped with train horns and lights roll into town for a vibrant night out. 

Mint.  A popular bar along the promenade. We’ve came here for the well made cocktails, plantain chip nachos and giant versions of games like jenga and connect four.

Sal de Mar.  A seafood restaurant across the street from Mint with a rooftop overlooking the ocean. Their menu specializes in dishes like Caribbean lobster, fried mahi mahi bites, ceviche and crab empanadas.

Aguada 

Aguada is city half way between Aguadilla and Rincon. It’s a peaceful place to stay and the perfect location to branch out from. The coastal route is lined with palm trees, painted sculptures, boutique hotels and restaurants. The town center is built around a tree lined plaza, flanked by a cathedral, Puerto Rican homes and narrow streets. 

Beaches & Restaurants 

Pico de Piedra Beach.  A spacious and quiet beach with several nearby restaurants and bars. It’s a tranquil place to relax for the morning or afternoon. Visit Platano Loco, a beach front restaurant where everything on the menu includes plantain. Try the plantain burger with large tostones for buns. 

El Galeón.  A pirate themed seafood restaurant with pirate ship paintings, a port hole bar and a pirate statue. It’s located across the street from the waterfront. 

Guayabos.  A beachfront restaurant on a small cliff with a patio overlooking Aguada Beach. Order dishes tapas style and try the octopus salad, ceviche, shrimp empanada and fried mahi mahi bites. 

Isabella 

Isabella is a town on the northwest corner of Puerto Rico. It’s home to protected beaches, cliffside restaurants & nature trails. It’s located about 30 minutes north of Aguadilla by car. 

Beaches & Restaurants 

Jobos Beach.  A sandy beach in a protected cove shielded from large Atlantic waves by a rocky  peninsula. Its turquoise waters are the perfect place to swim and surf in the remnants of broken waves. Palm trees line the shore, offering sunbathers a shaded reprieve from the tropical sun. Empanada vendors walk the beach while a series of restaurants and bars offer places to eat and drink. Shops and rental kiosks offer beach necessities, surf boards, chairs and umbrellas. 

Montones Beach.   A sandy beach protected by a large rock island. It’s a popular spot to snorkel and lounge onshore, especially for those staying at the beach’s colorful rental cottages.

Pozo De Jacinto.  A cliffside plateau with jagged rock formations and a large seaside cave. Waves crash into the cave, spraying mist into the air during large swells.

Mirador Paseo Tablado.  An elevated boardwalk meandering over steep sand dunes and through a pine forest. Its located between Jobos Beach and Montones Beach. 

Jobos Mojito Beach Bar & Restaurant.  A cliffside restaurant with panoramic views overlooking the Jobos Beach and the Atlantic Ocean. A chalkboard menu above the bar lists over 30 different types of mojitos. We ordered tamarind and passion fruit mojitos along with veggie paella for dinner from a menu including fried seafood, burgers and mofongo. 

La Playa

As the name suggests, La Playa is all about the beach. We stopped here for an afternoon at Balneario Tres Hermanos, a vast sandy and palm lined beach with calm swimmable waters. The beach also doubles as a camp ground for tents and trailers. Sea turtles are known to nest here. La Playa is about 15 minutes south of Rincon by car. 

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Chillo Frito Entero.  A fried red snapper served whole with crispy skin, tender meat and squeezed with lime. It’s usually accompanied by fried plantains like tostones, mofongo or amarillos. 

Mofongo.  Fried plantain mashed with garlic and butter. It’s often served plain or stuffed with an option of seafood. If prepared with bread fruit and yucca, it’s known as trifongo. 

Empanadillas.  Puerto Rican style fried empanadas stuffed with a range of fillings like octopus, conch, cod, shrimp, crap and pizza. 

Pinchos.  Grilled meats served on a stick often served at beaches or roadside kiosks. Our favorites are shark and shrimp. 

Mallorca.  A Puerto Rican pasty often shaped like a bun or swirled roll and dusted in powered sugar. Our favorite preparations are pressed with guava with cheese or egg and cheese. 

Coco Frio.  A cold and freshly opened coconut. Drink the coconut water inside then the sweet meat inside. Alternatively, enjoy it with coconut rum to create a tropical cocktail 

Rum.  Puerto Rico is unarguably the rum capital of the Caribbean with several distilleries and local brands served in bars across the island. Order it on the rocks, in a Pina Colada or other tropical cocktail. 

Medalla.  The island’s most popular local beer, recognizable by it’s small golden can. It has a light slightly nutty flavor and is served everywhere. Buy a 6 pack for the beach!

Getting Around

Fly into Aguadilla.  The airport has several flights per day and two small restaurants, usually open when flights are arriving or departing. Multiple car rental companies have lots nearby the airport.

Rent A Car.  Renting a car is an absolute must to get around anywhere on the west side of Puerto Rico. The entire west side of the island can be driven across in about 2 hours from north to south. We’ve had good experiences renting from Enterprise and Cabrera Car & Truck Rental. 

Places to Stay

Having spent two weeks on the western side of Puerto Rico over the years, we’ve found two go-to places to stay.

Puntas Tree House.  A bright pink house located in the middle of Cento Puntas across from Sandy Beach. The house has two floors of affordable apartment rentals, all decorated in tropical & beachy aesthetic. Book on Airbnb.

Aguada Oceanfront House.  A vacation rental located along the beach in Aguada. It has a spacious and simple interior with nautical decor and a large window with panoramic views of the sea. We fell asleep to the sounds of the waves. Book on Airbnb.

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

Having visited Puerto Rico nearly 20 times, we’ve experienced many places across the island. Though we don’t live here, we consider ourselves non-local experts and one day hope to call this beautiful island our home. Experience Puerto Rican culture in the capital city of San Juan. Explore the colorful and colonial streets of Old San Juan. Head to the southern coast of Caribbean Puerto Rico. Hike the El Yunque Rainforest in Eastern Puerto Rico. See the indigenous Taino sights of Central Puerto Rico. Get off the mainland to visit the islands of Culebra and Vieques.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around the western side of Puerto Rico including: 

More Beach Time.  Visit more beaches along the far southwest side of the island including: Buyé Beach, Parque Nacional Balneario Boquerón and Playa El Combate Beach. 

Isla de Mona.  A remote island halfway between Puerto Rico’s western coast and the Dominican Republic. It’s known at the Galapagos of the Caribbean for its isolation, diverse wildlife, coral reefs, caves, Taino petroglyphs and beach camping. 

Culebra and Vieques

The Puerto Rican Archipelago  

Culebra and Vieques are two islands off Puerto Rico’s eastern coast known for their sleepy vibes, tropical atmosphere, natural landscapes and Caribbean beaches. They’re lesser traveled to and equally as enchanting as other areas of Puerto Rico with unique character of their own.  

Culebra 

Culebra is a tiny island half way between “mainland” Puerto Rico and the US Virgin Islands. Things move a little slower here making it a great place to relax and appreciate life. The island has a small town with great restaurants, is home to multiple nature reserves and a variety of beaches. 

Things to Do

There are many things to do while exploring Culebra, primarily focused on outdoor activities like snorkeling, beach hopping, hiking and watching the sunset. 

Explore Dewey.  Culebra’s only town can be walked from end to end in minutes. Though small, its main road is home to restaurants, cafes, guest houses and the ferry terminal.  

Jump from the Bridge.  Join locals and jump from the Dewey bridge into the canal. Wear water shoes to protect your feet from the mussels and urchins.

Hector the Protector.  Walk along the rock break wall across from the ferry terminal and visit Hector the Protector, a planked wood human figure holding a lantern. 

Watch a Caribbean Sunset.  Many of the western beaches like Tamarindo, Punta Soldado or Carlos Rosario are peaceful places to watch the sunset below the Caribbean.

Visit the Beaches

Culebra has many great beaches all worth visiting for different reasons. There are white sand beaches, rocky beaches, remote beaches and unofficial nude beaches.

Flamenco Beach. Flamenco Beach is beloved for its powdery white sand shore that wraps around a turquoise blue bay. Come here to relax in under the heat of the Caribbean sun or shade of a swaying palm tree. The beach is famed for its graffitied tanks. home to a campground and offering of beach services and amenities. 

Flamenco’s Tanks.  Flamenco Beach is famed for its graffitied tanks. The shoreline surrounding the most iconic tank has been swept away by recent storms. Though still accessible, it’s now a pelican nesting ground. The second tank resides on a small hill nearby. 

Beach Services.  Flamenco Beach has a range of services and amenities making it easy to stay here all day. 

• Fees.  Parking costs $5 per vehicle and $2 per person. 

• Amenities.  Restrooms, showers and lockers are available 24/7. Lockers cost an additional fee to use. Bring your own hand soap for the restrooms. 

• Kiosks.  A series of modern kiosks offer food, beverages, ice cream, beach supplies and souvenirs. Try the traditional Puerto Rican snacks like empanadillas, bacalaitos, alcapurrias and pinchos. Pair them with a boozy tropical cocktail, local beer or fruit juice. 

• Rentals.  Two kiosks offer beach rentals including chairs, umbrellas, snorkel masks, life jackets and floaties.  

• Lifeguards.  Life guards watch over designated swimming areas. 

Flamenco Beach Camping.  Camping at Flamenco Beach is one of the most enjoyable ways to maximize beach time and experience Culebra’s pristine nature. We camped here for a long weekend on our most recent trip to the island. Ten under the stars, fall asleep to the sounds of crashing waves and wake up to the calls of roosters.

• Camping is DIY.  Bring your own gear: tent, sleeping bags, air mattress, hammock, beach chairs, flashlight, etc. 

• Where to Camp.  The official camping area is located after the kiosks and behind the beachfront tree line. It’s an expansive and shaded area with plenty of space to set up undisturbed. 

• Fees & Bookings.  Camping costs $35 per night per tent. Call ahead for a reservation or book at the beachfront ticket office. The office hours are from 8am-5pm. If showing up after hours, return the next day to register and pay. For reservations and information, call (787) 742 0700. 

Culebrita Beach. A crescent shaped beach with a narrow white sand shore and calm aquamarine water. It’s located on the island of Culebrita (Little Culebra) and requires a boat to reach. We sailed here on a catamaran with a group of friends through East Island Excursions. The tour brought us to coral garden off the coast of Culebra to snorkel before mooring off shore from Culebrita Beach. We spent the afternoon diving from the catamaran, dancing to Reggaeton music, swimming between the boat and shore, relaxing on the beach and enjoying an unlimited supply of rum cocktails. 

Playa Resaca.  This beach is as much about the journey as it is the destination. After a rigorous hike, you’ll reach a vast beach that you’ll likely have to yourself the entire day. The only swimmable area is the shallows at the far east end of the beach. Because it’s so remote, it’s the perfect place to get naked ;)

Hiking to Resaca:  

• Follow a paved road up the hill past the airport. There will be a parking lot at the top. Walk through the waist high grass behind the sign to locate the trail. 

• The further you descend, the more rigorous the trail gets. You’ll have to walk over boulders and duck under tree branches. We recommend wearing pants, hiking shoes and bringing a stick to knock away spider webs and thorny plants. 

• The trail ends at a mangrove forest just before the beach. There will be pink and orange ribbons, nautical debris and water bottles strung along the trees guiding you through it. Follow these markers, even if you think you’re on the path, or you will get lost! 

• The final stretch leads through a thicket of beach grape trees ending at a lone palm tree overlooking the beach. From the parking lot, it should take 45min to reach Playa Resaca. Plan to leave the beach at least 1 hour before sunset. 

Playa Zoni.  A white sand beach equally as beautiful as Flamenco. It’s located on the northeast side of the island, easily reachable by car though rarely that busy. Outside of free parking, there are no amenities.

Playa Punta Soldado.  A rocky beach great for finding conch shells. You’ll find a lot of fragments and occasionally a whole shell. Supposedly it’s a good spot to snorkel though we’ve never tried here.

Snorkeling Beaches 

Culebra is beautiful place to snorkel with multiple reefs easily accessible from shore. The beaches along the southwest coast of Culebra are the best on the island for snorkeling.

Reserva Natural Canal Luis Peña.  A canal and  protected nature reserve separating Culebra and Cayo Luis Peña. It’s home to coral reefs, sea grass meadows, an abundance of sea life and views of Caribbean sunsets. 

Playa Tamarindo Grande.  A secluded beach along the Canal Luis Peña, accessible via the Carlos Rosario Nature Trail. Just offshore is a vibrant reef with all types of lively and colorful corals. For the best snorkeling, enter the water near the green beach sign at the center of the beach, swim about 25 feet out, then follow the reef to the left. Water shoes are recommended due to jagged rocks near the shore.

Carlos Rosario Nature Trail.  A nature trail leading from the parking lot of Flamenco Beach to Playa Tamarindo Grande and Playa Carlos Rosario. The hike is relatively easy, leading over a hilltop crest, taking about 20 minutes one way. Along the trail, watch out for skittish lizards, hermit crabs and the occasional gardener snake. 

Good to Know.  Stay on the trail as unexploded munitions from military testing are believed to be in the area. 

Playa Tamarindo.  A beautiful beach with salt and pepper pebbles and a narrow stretch of white sand. This easily accessible spot is popular place for snorkeling. A small and colorful reef home with tropical fish resides just offshore to the far left while a vast meadow seagrass meadow begins about 50 feet out. Sea turtles, eagle rays and reef squids can be seen gliding through these waters.

Playa Melones.  A small and unassuming beach with a rocky shoreline and breathtaking coral reef. Enter the water at the center of the beach then swim out and towards the rocks on the right. Beneath the surface are large formations brimming with colorful corals and tropical fish. Green, purple and yellow corals sway in the currents as fish swim between and lurk within crevices. It’s some of the best snorkeling on Culebra!

Good to Know

• Snorkel Gear.  Bring your own snorkel gear or rent it from Blue Water or Culebra Divers, both located next to the ferry terminal. 

• When to Snorkel.  The sea life is most active before 10am and an hour before sunset. 

• Sunblock.  Wear reef safe sunblock to avoid harming the corals.

• Underwater Camera.  Capturing photos underwater is possible with most smart phones and a specialty case. We used the Pictar Waterproof Smartphone Case available on Amazon. 

Places to Eat and Drink 

For a tiny island, Culebra has a range of great restaurants, cafes and bars, mostly centered around Dewey.

Dinghy Dock.  A popular restaurant overlooking the island’s inner bay, frequented by boaters on inflatable dinghies. Come here for tropical cocktails and fresh caught seafood dishes like grilled Mahi Mahi and Chillo Frito Entero (whole fried red snapper). Feed the scraps to the giant tarpon waiting dockside.  

Mamacita’s.  A lively restaurant and bar located along the narrow canal in the middle of town. It’s a favorite spot of ours to come for boozy cocktails and sharable appetizers like coconut shrimp, mahi mahi bites and tostones. Like Dinghy Dock, come here to feed the tarpon.

La Cocina del Navigante.  An elevated restaurant overlooking the island’s inner bay. Their kitchen specializes in seafood dishes like Caribbean lobster, filets of red snapper, shrimp stuffed mofongo and paella! 

El Batay.  A roadside bar and local hangout located halfway between town and the airport. Come here to play a game of pool, sip on drinks or order one to takeaway.  

Pan Cafe.  A very popular bakery serving pastries, breakfast sandwiches and coffee. Try the Mallorca, a bready Puerto Rican pastry shaped into a swirl and sprinkled with powdered sugar. 

Hotel Kokomo.  The perfect go to for an inexpensive meal or quick lunch, especially while waiting for the ferry. We’ve ordered fish sandwiches and empanadas. 

Black Flamingo Coffee.  Our favorite breakfast spot on the island. Come here for their coffee, homemade sourdough toast and breakfast tacos.

Culebra Coffee.  A coffee shop selling mango and acai bowls, egg dishes and baked goods.

Good to Know:

• Most places accept credit cards however it’s good to have cash. There’s an ATM in town near the ferry terminal.

• Make reservations at places you want to eat. Service ends early and places can book up.

• Be patient, people and businesses move slower here.

Grocery Stores 

There are two grocery stores on the island. Colmado Carniceria Milka, located in town and Colmado Costa del Sol, located next to the airport. Both offer all the basics and necessities of any grocery store. They’re also good spots to buy snacks and drinks for the beach. 

Getting to Culebra 

By Ferry.  Take the Puerto Rico Ferry from Ceiba to Culebra. It’s an efficient and cost effective way of reaching the island. The ferry operates on a strict schedule. You need to buy tickets at least 1 week in advance, especially if traveling on a weekend. It can take anywhere from 1-2 hours depending on the type of boat and sea conditions. 

Getting to Ceiba.  Preschedule an Uber or Lyft. Rides typically cost around $100 one way. The drive from San Juan to Ceiba takes on average 1 hour 30 minutes depending on traffic and time of day. 

By Plane.  Book flights on a puddle jumper through Cape Air. Flights take less than 30 minutes from San Juan. Roundtrip tickets can cost between $200 and $300 per person. Due to cost, we typically opt for the ferry.

Getting Around Culebra

Golf Cart Rentals.  A golf cart is the most efficient way to navigating Culebra on your own. UTV Rental PR offers a range of rugged club cars for $70-$85 per day   

Jeep Rentals.  Having a Jeep is helpful for getting around on your own schedule but can be expensive. We’ve rented from Jerry’s Jeep Rental and Carlos Jeep Rental on past trips for around $150 per day. It’s often more adoptable to rent a golf cart or call a taxi when needed.

Culebra Taxis.  Local drivers provide taxi services around Culebra. The typical ride costs $20 for up to 4 people. Expect to pay in cash or by payment link. Here are some reputable taxi drivers. 

• Angel (787) 455 1892

• Damaris (787) 455 1893

• Abner (787) 237 5313

On Foot.  Though Culebra is a small island, getting around on foot outside of the town is difficult but not impossible. Many people are friendly enough to stop and give you a ride. Carry a flashlight when walking at night. 

Where to Stay 

Having visited Culebra three time, we’ve camped, stayed in Dewey and further away along the bay. 

Mamacita’s Guest House. A hub for activity on Culebra and a lively place to stay in the center of town. The rooms are simple but well equipped for a relaxing stay. Make sure to visit the restaurant and bar for dinner and drinks. Book on Airbnb. 

Oceanfront Villa.  A vacation rental with panoramic views the island’s inner bay. The villa has private suites and shared balcony. It’s located about 20 minutes on foot from Dewey or 5 minutes by car. Book on Airbnb. 

Vieques

Vieques is an island 6 miles off the coast of Puerto Rico. It’s home to a bioluminescent bay, free roaming horses, white and black sand beaches, turquoise swimmable water and marine reserves.  

Faro Puerto Mulas.  A small abandoned lighthouse overlooking Isabella Segunda. 

El Fortín De Conde Mirasol.  A small Spanish fort overlooking the town of Isabel Segunda surround a blue and orange painted museum. 

300 Year Old Ceiba Tree.  A sacred tree known for its age and impressive root structure. It’s located between the airport and Mosquito Pier.  

Mosquito Pier.  A mile long pier on the north side of the island. Come here to spot marine life including manta rays, sea turtles and jelly fish.

Paso Fino Horses.  The island is home to over 2,000 free roaming horses. They are tame and can be found walking the beaches, grazing in fields and along the road sides. Watch out for piles of horse manure. Various company’s offer riding tours along the beaches. 

Vieques National Wildlife Refuge.  A nature reserve that covers more than half the island and includes bays, mangrove forests, salt flats, hiking trails, beaches and coral reefs.

Things to Do 

Explore the Small Towns.  Vieques is home to two small towns on opposite sides of the island.

• Isabel Segunda. The main town on the north side of the island with the ferry terminal, grocery stores, restaurants, hotels and souvenir shops.

• Esperanza.  A beach town on the south side of the island with restaurants, hotels, tour companies and a range of beaches. 

Crab Island Rum Distillery.  Visit the island’s on rum distillery! Crab Island produces 14 month, 3 year and orange flavored rums. Most bars and restaurants on the island serve their rum. Go to Bili for a Rum Island Iced tea made from all three! 

Go Stargazing.  Given the remote location and lack of city lights, the sky is often dark for brilliant stargazing. Download the free Sky Tonight app to identify constellations, planets and distant stars.

Kayak in the Bioluminescent Bay (Mosquito Bay).  Recognized as the brightest bioluminescent bay in the world. We came here to kayak at night to experience the bioluminescence. Immediately after paddling away in our kayak, the water began to sparkle around us, our paddle illuminated vibrant streaks of bioluminescence and swimming fish left a glowing trail behind them. It was truly an unreal experience that felt like the Manta Ray in Moana or a patronus charm in Harry Potter. Book with Abe’s Snorkeling and Bio Bay Tours. They offer snorkeling tours across the island and kayaking tours in the bio bay and mangrove channels. 

Beach Hopping 

Rent a car and spend time beach hopping across the island. Vieques is home to numerous beaches ranging in size, swimmability and accessibility. The most popular and swimmable beaches are on the south side of the island. The most remote are located in the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge.

Bastimento Beach.  A long meandering beach with turquoise water, a sandy shore, coral reefs, a protected tide pool and snorkeling on the north side of the island.

El Gallito (Gringo Beach).  A roadside beach with a sandy shore, short palm trees and views looking towards the mainland of Puerto Rico and Culebra. 

Playa Negra.  A semi remote cliff side black sand beach. There is a small parking lot nearby Playa Negra Fine Foods. Follow a trail to get here (technically a stream) and walk for 15 minutes until reaching the beach. It’s not the safest for swimming due to rocks and currents. It’s located on the south side just west of Esperanza. 

Playa Caracas (The Red Beach).  A beach with white sand, palm trees, turquoise water and shard gazebos. It’s located in the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge.

Esperanza Beach.  A popular beach nearby town on the south side of the island with kiosks, restaurants, bars and kayak rentals.

Sea Glass Beach.  A small beach to collect handfuls of sea glass within minutes of beach combing. It’s located in the town of Isabel Segunda. 

Playa Pata Prieta (Secret Beach).  A secluded beach popular for swimming and snorkeling. It’s a 10 min drive east of Playa Caracas. 

Playa Chiva (Blue Beach).  A long powder white sand beach with calm with turquoise and navy blue water. Come here to swim and snorkel. It’s a 5 min drive east of Playa Pata Prieta. 

Escondida Beach.  A small beach with some snorkeling. It can frequently be covered in sea weed. Located a 15min walk east of Playa Chiva. 

Playa Plata.  A semi private white sand beach with crystal clear turquoise water for swimming and snorkeling. Located a 5min drive east of Playa Chiva. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Saint Voodoos Mar Azul.  A waterfront bar with a deck overlooking the Caribbean. Come here for cocktails and lite bites at sunset. 

Lazy Jacks.  A restaurant and bar near Esperanza beach for tacos, sandwiches, salads, beers and cocktails. 

Lydia’s Bakery.  A bakery with breads, sandwiches, pastry’s and coffee. 

Bili.  A restaurant with an impressive seafood menu including Caribbean lobsters, grilled mahi mahi and octopus. Come here for their Crab Island Long Island. 

Vieques Food Park.  A food truck park with several restaurants. We came to Rincon Cafe for breakfast and coffee. 

Bar La Nasa.  A beach front bar with cocktails, beer and music. 

Family Market Centró Ahorras.  A grocery store located in Isabella Seguda. Come here to stock up on water, beers and snacks before heading to the beach. 

Getting to Vieques 

By Air.  We booked a one way flight with Cape Air, from San Juan to Vieques. It’s a quick 20 min flight over the El Yunque rainforest and scenic way to travel. They offer multiple flights daily for around $100 one way. 

By Sea.  We booked our return trip on the Puerto Rico Ferry, from Vieques to Ceiba. From Ceiba we took an Uber to San Juan. One way ferry tickets cost $2 and the Uber costs around $100. 

Getting Around Vieques

By Car.  Vieques is a large island. The best way to get around, see all of the sights and explore is by renting a car. We booked with Maritza’s Car Rental for about $110 per day with insurance. 

By Taxi.  Taxis were readily available across the Island bringing people between Isabella Segunda, Escondida, the airport and accessible beaches. 

Where to Stay

Tropical Guest House. A beautifully decorated home in Isabella Segunda with a comfy bed, kitchenette, outdoor grill, beech chairs, umbrellas and snorkel equipment. Book here on Airbnb. 

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico 

Having visited Puerto Rico nearly 20 times, we’ve experienced many places across the island. Though we don’t live here, we consider ourselves non-local experts and one day hope to call this beautiful island our home. Experience Puerto Rican culture in the capital city of San Juan. Explore the colorful and colonial streets of Old San Juan. Head to the southern coast of Caribbean Puerto Rico. Hike the El Yunque Rainforest in Eastern Puerto Rico. Visit the surf towns along Western Puerto Rico. See the indigenous Taino sights of Central Puerto Rico. 

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips to Vieques including: 

Mt. Pirata Observation Post.  Hike to tropical summit of the tallest point on Vieques measuring nearly 1,000 feet above sea level. 

Horseback Riding on Vieques.  We have our eyes set on a beach sunset horseback riding tour. 

Old San Juan, Puerto Rico

Bienvenidos al Viejo San Juan

Old San Juan is an enchanting, romantic, vibrant and historic neighborhood of San Juan, Puerto Rico. The old town is lined with cobble stone streets, colorful colonial architecture, world famous cocktail bars, restaurants serving Caribbean cuisine and music playing during all hours of the day. It is rich in history, flanked by two fortresses and surrounded by a stone wall overlooking the North Atlantic. 

A Second Home

Puerto Rico has become a second home to us. From quick weekend getaways to month long trips, we’ve spent time exploring the island and immersing ourselves in so much of what it has to offer from the nature, cuisine and culture. This guide focuses on our time visiting and staying in Old San Juan. 

Neighborhoods & Streets

Calle San Sebastián.  A cobblestone street is lined with colorful and vibrant colonial architecture. It’s known for its bustling nightlife scene, famed cocktail bars and lgbtq+ friendly atmosphere. 

Calle San Francisco.  This street runs central through Old San Juan and is a good place to start exploring. There are plenty of restaurants, bars, cafes, shops, hotels, plazas and residences here.

Calle de la Luna.  Though all streets in Old San Juan are flanked with beautiful architecture, this one is one of our favorites to walk down. There are many colorful buildings, colonial balconies, unique door knockers and abandoned buildings that have been retaken by nature. 

Plaza das Armas.  Old San Juan’s historic town square with performers, a fountain, statues and pigeons. It’s a favorite spot of ours to grab a coffee and mallorca from the green gazebo in the northwest corner. 

Caleta de San Juan.  A romantic tree covered street lined with colorful colonial buildings, hole in the wall restaurants and wine bars. The cobblestone street leads uphill from the Puerta de San Juan to the historic Basilica of San Juan. 

La Perla.  A colorful seaside neighborhood located between the north wall of Old San Juan and the Atlantic Coast. Over the past years, the community in La Perla has turned their neighborhood into a destination filled with rustic bars, local hangouts and art. 

Sights & Museums 

Castillo de San Cristóbal.  This is one of the largest colonial military fortress in the Caribbean and marks the entrance to Old San Juan. You can easily spend a half day here exploring the barracks, fortress walls, guard towers and grounds. One of the fort’s hidden gems is a surviving drawing of Spanish ships drawn on the wall of a former prison cell deep with in the tunnels. 

Castillo San Felipe del Morro (El Morro).  This is the oldest colonial fortress in the Caribbean and a great place to learn about the history and strategic importance of Old San Juan. Similar to San Cristobal, you can spend an afternoon here exploring the different levels and sections. The fort is perched on the NW side of the old town. It’s accessible after crossing a large lawn known for flying Chiringas or kites and food carts selling tropical flavored snow cones called Piraguas. 

Pro Tip.  The receipt from one fort gets you access to the other on the same day you visit.

Paseo del Morro.  A romantic seaside promenade that follows the old town’s wall. It is a beautiful place to walk, watch the sunset and look out towards the sea. We we’re incredibly lucky to see the Green Flash from here. It passes La Puerta de San Juan, the original entrance to the walled city and connects Paseo de la Princesa to the Maria Magdelana Cemetery. 

La Casa Estrecha.  A narrow house, measuring about 5 feet wide, with a vibrant yellow facade. Adorned with the Puerto Rican flag, the building is an iconic symbol of Old San Juan.  

Calle Fortaleza. A street is filled with souvenir shops, restaurants and jewelry stores, ending at the Governor’s Mansion, La Forteleza. The end of the street is often decorated in an ever changing canopy of umbrellas, banners, flowers or lights. 

Paseo de la Princesa.  A palm lined seaside promenade along the south wall. There is a nightly market with salsa dancing, food trucks offering up fried foods and sweets, gazebos selling cocktails, and tented vendors selling homemade crafts.

Plaza del Quinto Centenario.  A plaza commemorating the 500 years since Columbus first voyaged to Puerto Rico. At its center is a tall totem made from fragments of clay pottery representing the violent first meeting between the indigenous Taino and European colonists. 

La Puerta de la Bandera.  A black and white painting of the Puerto Rican flag on the wooden door of a crumbling brick building. It symbolizes Puerto Rican resistance against injustice.

Parque San Francisco.  A small and hidden park nestled between the crumbling brick and plaster walls of the surrounding colonial buildings. The park offers a quiet place to relax and take a break while exploring the old town. 

Callejón de la Puerta con la Bandera. A large doorway at the end of a blue cobblestone alley with a vivid painting of the Puerto Rican flag. It’s a very popular photo spot for both tourists and locals. Recently an artist added a colorful mural of Puerto Rican artists Bad Bunny and Elizam Escobar to the adjacent door.

Maria Magdelana Cemetery.  A beautiful seaside cemetery with above ground tombs, a large mausoleum and monuments dedicated to the dead. Its location between La Perla and El Morro along the coast is strategic to carry the deceased souls across the ocean into the afterlife. 

Museo de las Americas.  This museum focuses on pre-colonial and modern art and artifacts, the colonization of Puerto Rico and the island’s African heritage.

Capilla del Cristo.  A small chapel built on the cliffside edge of the old town’s wall. It is dedicated to health and well being, commemorating the story of a man who plunged off the cliff while horse racing but survived. 

Things to Do

Hire a Photographer.  Hire a photographer to take photos of you around the old town during the morning or evening golden hours. We booked with Raul at Rolo Photo PR and couldn’t have been happier with the outcome! 

Fly a Chiringa. The ocean breezes from the lawn in front of El Morro make it a great location and fun Sunday afternoon pastime. Kites can be bought from street vendors adjacent to the lawn. 

Visit the Farmers Market.  Located in front of the San Juan Museum every Saturday morning. It’s a great spot to purchase local produce, fresh baked breads and flowers.

Sunset Harbor Boat Ride.  A sunset cruise on a large pontoon style boat around the harbor of Old San Juan with historical info, snacks, rum punch and music. Book Here!

Vamos al la Playa

Playa Peña.  A secluded beach in Old San Juan, located on the other side of Castillo de San Cristobal. It’s a cute sand and rock beach below the cliff in front of the capital. The water isn’t safe for swimming. 

Playa El Escambrón.  A sandy palm covered beach between Old San Juan and Condado. It’s a popular beach for swimming, snorkeling, grilling and sunbathing. The best place to snorkel is the protected cove next to the Caribe Hilton. Come here in the morning to spot sea turtles feeding in the seagrass and tropical fish swimming among the underwater sculpture garden. There’s also the ruins of a small fort, Fortín del Escambrón, nearby. 

Places to Shop

Spicy Caribe. A spice store with hot sauces, spices and vanilla made from locally grown ingredients. 

El Mundo Taino.  A souvenir shop with locally made home goods, artwork, jewelry and coffee. 

Hatian Gallery.  A shop specializing in handmade artwork, sculptures and jewelry from Puerto Rico and other Caribbean islands. 

Materia Prima.  An organic grocery store with local farmed Puerto Rican produce, provisions and meats. It has a coffee bar and is connected to a wine bar in the Hotel Convento. 

U Go Market. A grocery store with produce, snacks, beverages, alcohol, beach-ware and sunblock. 

John Napoli.  A kitchen supply store with a range of cookware and kitchen gadgets including Puerto Rican pilóns, calderos and large paella pans.

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Chillo Frito Entero. A fried red snapper served whole with crispy skin, tender meat and squeezed with lime. It’s usually accompanied by fried plantains like tostones, mofongo or amarillos. 

Mofongo. Fried plantain mashed with garlic and butter. It’s often served plain or stuffed with an option of seafood. If prepared with bread fruit and yucca, it’s known as trifongo. 

Empanadillas. Puerto Rican style fried empanadas stuffed with a range of fillings like octopus, conch, cod, shrimp, crap and pizza. 

Pinchos. Grilled meats served on a stick often served at beaches or roadside kiosks. Our favorites are shark and shrimp. 

Mallorca. A Puerto Rican pasty often shaped like a bun or swirled roll and dusted in powered sugar. Our favorite preparations are pressed with guava with cheese or egg and cheese. 

Coco Frio. A cold and freshly opened coconut. Drink the coconut water inside then the sweet meat inside. Alternatively, enjoy it with coconut rum to create a tropical cocktail 

Rum. Puerto Rico is unarguably the rum capital of the Caribbean with several distilleries and local brands served in bars across the island. Order it on the rocks, in a Pina Colada or other tropical cocktail. 

Medalla. The island’s most popular local beer, recognizable by it’s small golden can. It has a light slightly nutty flavor and is served everywhere. Buy a 6 pack for the beach! 

The Food Scene 

A huge part of the culture in Puerto Rico involves eating, drinking and getting together with others. With that in mind, there are so many great places to eat and drink. Having visited Old San Juan several times, we’ve been able to try out numerous restaurants, cafes and bars. 

Pro Tip. It’s best to make a reservation whenever dining out in Old San Juan. 

Restaurants 

La Garita.  A restaurant and bar serving Puerto Rican dishes and rum cocktails with a view overlooking La Perla. Ask for a Pina Colada made with a double shot of Don Q, Puerto Rico’s most popular rum. 

El Jibarito.  Another restaurant serving Puerto Rican dishes. Come here for the whole fried fish and mofongo. 

La Madre.  A Mexican restaurant with delicious tacos. Eat outside on the pedestrian tree-lined street. 

Cayo Caribe.  A small local chain of restaurants serving Caribbean seafood. Try the Salmorejo (stewed land crab and tomatos). 

Genisis.  A late night restaurant with a fusion of Caribbean and Spanish cuisine. We had paella and sangria. 

Ladis.  A famous seaside restaurant built into the cliff between OSJ and Condado. Come here for seafood, cocktails and ocean views.

Señor Paleta.  A popular spot to buy fruit and dessert popsicles mid-day or after dinner.

Puerto Criollo. A Puerto Rican restaurant with classics like fried snapper, stuffed mofongo and octopus salad. They also service inventive tropical cocktails in unique glasses.

Al Fresco Rooftop Wine & Tapas.  A quiet place with a rooftop patio in the middle of Old San Juan. Come here for lite bites and wine. We shared a cheese board and bottle of bubbly. 

Otras Cosas.  A large outdoor restaurant to come for lunch, dinner and live music. Try the whole Caribbean lobster and coconut filled with coconut rum. 

Mar y Rosa.  A newly opened rooftop restaurant with el fresco dining and an elevated menu. Come here for the panoramic views at sunset, tasty cocktails and seafood menu with Korean & Caribbean influences. 

El Champi.  A tapas restaurant offering Spanish style small plates, paella and charcuterie. It’s located on Caleta de San Juan, a romantic tree covered street.  It’s adjoined by El Rincón del Vino, a small wine bar with a broad selection of wines all nestled within a small interior courtyard. 

Atelier Rooftop Terrace.  A rooftop bar and restaurant at the Hotel Palacio Provincial. It offers sunset views and overlooks the neighboring basilica.  

Cafes & Coffee Shops 

Cuarto Estaciones.  A green gazebo located in the Plaza de Armas serving coffee and pastries. We often come here for our first breakfast while in town, sitting under the shaded patio, surrounded by potted plants and chirping birds. Our usual order consists of iced lattes with canela and Mallorca with guava and cheese. They’re cash only. 

La Carreta.  Come here for the variety of sweet and savory breakfast dishes. Try an egg sandwich on Mallorca and a mimosa made from freshly squeezed OJ. 

Caficultura.  A good spot for breakfast and coffee, have the Mallorca con Guayaba (guava).

St Germain Bistro & Cafe.  A vegetarian friendly brunch spot with pancakes, toasts, sandwiches and burgers. 

Mallorca. A bakery specializing in its namesake, Mallorca. It’s unmistakable by its sign spelling out Mallorca in large red letters.

787 Coffee.  A coffee shop brewing Puerto Rican grown and roasted coffee beans. We discovered them on the East Village of NYC and visited their location near Escambron Beach while in Old San Juan.  

Pilao Bakery-Cafe.  Bakery with large portion breakfasts and coffee. 

Bien Papaya.  A coffee shop with Mallorca, smoothies and smoothie bowls right by San Cristobal. 

Don Ruiz.  A cafe in the Museo de las Americas with fresh roasted coffee and bottled beer.

C.B Restaurant.  A breakfast and brunch spot in plaza colon. Try the Boricua Morning Mallorca. 

Cocktail Bars & Nightlife 

La Factoria.  A famous cocktail bar in a dimly lit old world interior, connected to multiple other bars. One of our favorite drinks to order here is the Peligroso, made with Ron de Barillito, Campari, spices and lime. 

La Cubanita.  Connected to La Factoria, this bar is offers equally as good and unique cocktails. Our favorite section is the hidden bar up the stairs and though a door to the right. 

El Desvio.  A candle lit cocktail bar hidden within the passageways of La Factoria 

El Batey.  A late night dive bar with graffitied walls, a pool table and lights covered in notes, cash and napkins left behind from past visitors.

La Casita.  A pink house and outdoor cocktail bar serving rum and tiki drinks overlooking the bay. It’s a nice escape from the busy streets or to end the night.

Colmado Cocteleria Tropical.  A bar on Calle de San Sebastián designed like a traditional Puerto Rican colmado (a local convenience store) with shelves of faux and vintage groceries and plantain decor. Sip on a cocktail while playing dominos or taking pictures in the photo booth. 

La Grieta.  A dimly lit cocktail bar specializing in mezcal and mezcal cocktails. There is limited seating inside however the bar spills out onto the cobblestone street with small tables and sofas.

La Sombrilla Rosa.  A popular gay bar on Calle San Sebastián. Bartenders serve in inexpensive drinks while Reggaeton music echos out onto the street. 

Barrachina.  The location where the Piña Colada was invented. Come here for the classic cocktail and stay for lunch or dinner in their courtyard. 

Cannon Club.  A dueling piano bar with live parrots, multiple levels and eclectic decor. This place is more about the drinks and unique atmosphere than the food.

La Verguenza.  This multi-level bar overlooks La Perla is the center of nightlife in OSJ. The nightly party spills out into the streets and continues early into the morning. 

Scryer Rum Barrelhouse & Rooftop.  A small batch rum distillery and cocktail bar in Old San Juan with a wall of barreled rum. We drank cocktails here made exclusively from their house distilled rum under candle light during a city wide black out. 

Cafe Darsenas.  A blue gazebo on the Paseo de la Princesa with affordable drinks and light bites. We often come here for a frozen sangria to-go. 

El Vino Crudo.  A hidden wine bar tucked away on Callejón Gambaro. They pour natural wines and serve Spanish tapas late into the night.

Places to Stay 

We’ve stayed at a range of places in Old San Juan including apartments overlooking the ocean, a private room in a rum baron’s mansion, a ruin style apartment and a boutique hotel. 

Casa Luna.  A boutique hotel with range of apartment rentals and a rooftop terrace. It’s located in the middle of Old San Juan on Calle de la Luna. Book Here!

Cozy Historic Ruin Apartment.  A small apartment built within the ruins of a crumbling building.The space has character and charm that exemplifies the old town. Book Here!

PH Apt in Old San Juan w/ Terrace.  A comfortable and spacious apartment with a large private terrace overlooking the old town’s cobblestone streets and colorful buildings. Book Here!

Live Like a Rum Baron in a 200 Year Old Mansion.  An elevated apartment with private rooms and cozy communal spaces in a renovated colonial building. Book Here!

Getting Around

On Foot.  Old San Juan is very walkable and by far the best way to see the city. Be careful of the narrow sidewalks and cobble stones. 

By Uber.  Use Uber to get to/from Old San Juan from the airport or San Juan proper. Ubers are typically inexpensive. The best place for pick up and drop off is Plaza Colon at the entrance of the old town. 

Free Shuttle.  There is a free “shuttle” aka a large golf cart the shuttles people a loop in the old town.

By Car / Parking.  Traffic gets congested in and around Old San Juan. The best place to park in Old San Juan is Dona Fella, garage on the south side of the Old Town. Parking typically costs $1 per hour.

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

Having visited Puerto Rico nearly 20 times, we’ve experienced many places across the island. Though we don’t live here, we consider ourselves non-local experts and one day hope to call this beautiful island our home. Experience Puerto Rican culture in the capital city of San Juan. Head to the southern coast of Caribbean Puerto Rico. Hike the El Yunque Rainforest in Eastern Puerto Rico. Visit the surf towns along Western Puerto Rico. See the indigenous Taino sights of Central Puerto Rico. Get off the mainland to visit the islands of Culebra and Vieques.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around Old San Juan including: 

San Sebastian Festival.  A massive festival and street party held throughout Old San Juan in January to mark the end of the holidays with performers, a parade, street food, music and dancing. 

Tomb of Juan Ponce de León.  The tomb of the decisive conquistador credited with founding San Juan. His tomb is located inside of the Catedral Basilica Menor de San Juan Bautista

Casa Blanca.  A 500 year old house in Old San Juan built for Ponce de Leon. It was converted into a museum with Spanish colonial artifacts.

San Juan, Puerto Rico

San Juan, Puerto Rico

San Juan is a tropical metropolis that’s equal parts city and beach with skyscrapers and homes lining the Atlantic coast. Come here to spend leisurely afternoons on a sandy shore, under an umbrella or at a beach club. Explore the city’s cultural side at art museums, graffitied streets, historic sights and rum distilleries. Celebrate life like a Puerto Rican with Reggaeton music, salsa dancing, traditional dishes, tropical drinks or a local beer. 

Neighborhoods & Streets

Condado.  A seaside neighborhood with skyscrapers, hotels, restaurants, bars and beaches.

Miramar.  A residential neighborhood with historic homes and buildings built in The Spanish Colonial Revival style. It’s central to Old San Juan and Condado. 

Santurce.  A large area of San Juan home to art museums, food truck parks and the nightlife hubs of Calle Cerra and La Placita. 

Ocean Park.  A trendy yet local neighborhood popular for its beach and variety of restaurants and nightlife. 

Calle Loíza.  Ocean Park’s main street for brunch spots, open air restaurants, cocktails bars, surf shops and Loíza Brinca, a famous corner building featuring the Puerto Rican flag.

Cataño.  A neighborhood a quick ferry ride across the harbor from Old San Juan with a waterfront boardwalk home to several restaurants and bars. The ferry operates from the cruise docks hourly throughout most of the day for just a couple of dollars. It’s a popular place to visit for the Bacardi Factory from. 

Piñones.  A food hub known for Puerto Rican and Caribbean cuisine just outside of San Juan. The main street, located along the Atlantic coast, is lined with dozens of restaurant, bars and kiosks. We hopped from place to place and ordered crab empanadillas, cod alcapurrias, coco frio and rum punch. 

Vamos a la Playa

Atlantic Beach.  A sandy beach great for swimming nearby the hotels in Condado. There are no public amenities (restrooms or showers) though vendors rent umbrellas and chairs for negotiable prices. There is frequently a gay section in front of The Tryst Hotel. 

Playita del Condado.  A beach located next to the Puente dos Hermanos between the Condado Lagoon and the Atlantic Ocean. The water is calm enough for swimming and snorkeling with chair rentals for lounging on the beach.

Ocean Park Beach.  This vast beach is probably the most popular in San Juan. Everyone from locals, tourists, families and couples come here. There are plenty of restaurants, marine sports and activities, chair and umbrella rentals and vendors selling drinks on the beach.

Numero Uno Beach Hotel & Restaurant.  A beach club located at Ocean Park Beach. Come here for a relaxing day under the shade of an umbrella or palm tree while watching kite surfers ride the wind and waves. Order the beach vibes package, it includes two chairs, an umbrella, bottle of bubbly and bag of chips and salsa.

Isla Verde Beach.  A large crescent shaped white sand beach with calm turquoise water, palm trees, beach rentals and hotels.  

Pine Grove Beach.  A beach between Island Verde and Ocean Park Beaches. It’s popular for beginner surfing with surf schools and rentals.  

Sights & Museums 

Fortín San Jerónimo de Boquerón.  A small fort at the mouth of the Condado Lagoon. The visiting hours are infrequent due to repairs post Hurricane Maria. It’s worth visiting if open. 

Puente Dos Hermanos.  The bridge crossing the Condado Lagoon connecting to Old San Juan. It’s beautiful to walk across with great views. There is also a ledge making it easy to jump from into the lagoon. The Condado side has a small sandy beach, Playita del Condado. 

Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico.  A well curated and diverse collection of Puerto Rican art and history. After touring the galleries, walk through the sculpture garden. 

Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Puerto Rico (MAC).  A contemporary art museum with rotating galleries specific to social movements, local artists and Puerto Rican heritage. 

Things to Do

Visit a Rum Distillery.  The two distilleries to visit are the Bacardi Factory or Ron del Barrilito. Both offer similar experiences. Bacardi is large scale production while Ron de Barrilito is small batch and higher end. Arrive to a welcome drink, learn about the history of each distillery, their processes of rum making and afterwards take a mixology class, sample aged vintages or simply order cocktails from the bar. Either way, expect to leave tipsy.  

SUP or Kayak in Laguna de Condado.  Tour companies based around the lagoon offer SUP and Kayak rentals for $20/hour. The lagoon is a boat free place to spot eagle rays, star fish and sea turtles. We booked though VIP Adventures Puerto Rico.

Dance Salsa.  We’ve taken two salsa lessons, learning the history and basics from our instructor, Angelina, while sipping on rum punch. Afterwards, we headed to a salsa bar in La Placita for dancing and drinking. Book Here!

Calle Cerra

Calle Cerra is a gritty street with large murals and graffiti covered walls. The surrounding neighborhood is home to many hostels, restaurants, cafes & bars. The area becomes a center for nightlife on weekends. Hundreds of people gather at in the street and at bars as live music and reggaeton echos throughout the neighborhood. Some of our favorite spots are:

Esquina El Watusi.  This bar is the heart of the nightlife scene in Santurce. Come here to join hundreds of people gathered in the street out front and ordering from the bar. Drinks are strong and inexpensive. 

Machete.  A bustling yet vibey cocktail bar with well priced drinks and a menu of flavorful bites. To drink, try the Vampiro for something smokey or House Daq for something fruity. To eat, order the ceviche and pulpo + fries! 

Botánico.  A spacious cocktail bar with an interior patio decorated in florals. Come here for an escape from the high energy atmosphere of other bars along Calle Cerra. Try the Flora or Mezcal Botanical. 

Pro Tip.  Wear pants and shoes to avoid being turned away at bars.

La Placita

La Placita is a cultural hub. It is a place to buy local produce during the morning, where elderly locals gather during the day and an energetic place to meet people, drink late into the evening and dance Salsa. The plaza is surrounded by lively restaurants and bars.

The Produce Market.  Located inside the Plaza de Mercado in the center of the plaza. We used a machete to cut plantains from the bunch, picked out limes to make our own cocktails and selected a ripe papaya for lunch. 

La Tasca del Pescador.  The place to go for seafood. In the heart of La Perla. We ordered the snapper, squid Ink rice & grilled prawns.

Asere Cubano Kitchen and Bar.  A fusion of Cuban and Puerto Rican cuisine with a roof top bar overlooking the plaza. 

La Alcapurria Quemá.  A restaurant and bar specializing in the famed Puerto Rican street food, alcapurria. We ordered a variety including ncluding crab, cod and vegetarian. 

Jungle Bird.  A cocktail bar serving tiki and tropical island drinks.

Taberna Los Vázquez.  An energetic salsa bar with live music and cheap drinks. 

Boronía en la Placita.  A restaurant serving Creole cuisine like mofongo, gumbo and seafood.

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Chillo Frito Entero.  A fried red snapper served whole with crispy skin, tender meat and squeezed with lime. It’s usually accompanied by fried plantains like tostones, mofongo or amarillos. 

Mofongo.  Fried plantain mashed with garlic and butter. It’s often served plain or stuffed with an option of seafood. If prepared with bread fruit and yucca, it’s known as trifongo.

Empanadillas.  Puerto Rican style fried empanadas stuffed with a range of fillings like octopus, conch, cod, shrimp, crap and pizza. 

Pinchos.  Grilled meats served on a stick often served at beaches or roadside kiosks. Our favorites are shark and shrimp. 

Mallorca.  A Puerto Rican pasty often shaped like a bun or swirled roll and dusted in powered sugar. Our favorite preparations are pressed with guava with cheese or egg and cheese. 

Coco Frio.  A cold and freshly opened coconut. Drink the coconut water inside then the sweet meat inside. Alternatively, enjoy it with coconut rum to create a tropical cocktail.

Rum.  Puerto Rico is unarguably the rum capital of the Caribbean with several distilleries and local brands served in bars across the island. Order it on the rocks, in a Pina Colada or other tropical cocktail. 

Medalla.  The island’s most popular local beer, recognizable by it’s small golden can. It has a light slightly nutty flavor and is served everywhere. Buy a 6 pack for the beach!

Places to Eat & Drink

From beachfront restaurants to food truck parks and cocktail bars, there is no shortage of great places to stop for a meal or drink in San Juan. Some of our favorites are: 

Cafes & Coffee Shops

Wicked Lily.  A beach front bar and restaurant at The Tryst Hotel. Come here for brunch, rent a pink umbrella and join the other gays soaking up the sun. 

Café Comunión.  A coffee shop and breakfast spot. Come for the coffee, open faced sandwiches and fresh sugar glazed donuts

Tostado.  A coffee shop breakfast spot. Come for the coffee, tropical fruit, French toast and egg dishes.

Musa.  A funky brunch spot with egg dishes, French toast and mimosas 

La Coffeetera.  A breakfast spot with dishes like pancakes and egg scrambles. Order the eggs Benedict on a Hawaiian roll or the stuffed avocado. 

Restaurants

La Cueva Del Mar.  A Puerto Rican seafood restaurant with a range of dishes like whole fried red snapper, ceviche, creole style shrimp, fish filets and fried plantains. 

Bottega.  We came for the inventive cocktails and music. We had the Safe Flight, Ritmo Tropica, El In-Muerto and shared the octopus salad. Lucha Libre DJ really added to the vibes of the night.

Casita de Miramar.  A romantic restaurant serving elevated Puerto Rican cuisine. We dined here one evening on their outdoor porch. For our meal, we enjoyed plantain soup, mini bacalaitos, arroz de montosteo cooked with house made pique, a whole fried red snapper, and for dessert, tres leches made with coquito.

Paulina Escanes Gormandize.  We’ve dined here twice, for bunch and dinner, tasting a range of items across the menu including mallorca with egg, cheese and avocado, corn bread soufflé, tacos and Tiradito (Peruvian sashimi) on a tostada. 

Container Bar.  One of several waterfront restaurants and bars in Cataño nearby the ferry terminal. Try the crab salad arepas and enjoy a medalla. 

Food Truck Parks.  Quite popular across Puerto Rico, three go-tos in San Juan are Tresbé, Lote 23, and Miramar Food Truck Park.

La Marqueta.  An open air food hall with ocean views and palm trees. It’s a great spot to grab a bite or drink after visiting the lagoon or beach. 

Cocktail Bars & Nightlife 

Pinaloca.  A walk-up window in Condado serving Pina coladas in pineapples. 

Oasis.  A gay bar and tapas restaurant near Condado beach with late night music and dancing 

El Bar Bero.  A barbershop themed bar with barber chairs, mustache art and smokey cocktails.

Kane Rum Bar.  A tiki bar in Condado with lux tropical vibes, cocktails and bites. Order a classic tiki drink like the Zombie, Mai Tai or Painkiller along side light bites like a vegan Hawaiian pizza, tropical ceviche or sesame seared tuna.

Places to Stay 

We’ve stayed at a range of places in San Juan including airbnbs like a private room at a hostel and an apartment style inn. 

Casa Santurce Hostel.  A hostel with dorm and private rooms in San Juan’s arts district. It offers affordable rates and near nightly activities. Book Here!

Casa del Caribe Inn.  A small family run hotel in the heart of Condado. It’s large apartment style rooms are perfect for a weekend getaway. Book Here!

Cool Tripper’s Inn.  A boutique hotel near Ocean Park Beach with tiny yet well designed apartments. Book Here!

Getting Around 

On Foot.  Old San Juan is best explored on foot! You can walk straight from end to end in less than 20 minutes. Spend time walking though the streets, admiring the architecture, discovering bars, dancing in the plazas and finding neighborhood gems.

By Shuttle.  There is a free shuttle or multi row golf cart that weaves through the streets southern streets of Old San Juan and along the perimeter towards El Morro. 

On Scooter.  There are rental scooters available around the streets of San Juan. Download the Bird app and scan the scooter’s QR code to ride. 

By Uber.  Ubers are the best way to get to and from the airport and throughout San Juan.

By Car / Parking.  Rent a car if you plan on exploring outside of San Juan. Though expensive, it’s still the most affordable way to get around.

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

Having visited Puerto Rico nearly 20 times, we’ve experienced many places across the island. Though we don’t live here, we consider ourselves non-local experts and one day hope to call this beautiful island our home. Explore the colorful and colonial streets of Old San Juan. Head to the southern coast of Caribbean Puerto Rico. Hike the El Yunque Rainforest in Eastern Puerto Rico. Visit the surf towns along Western Puerto Rico. See the indigenous Taino sights of Central Puerto Rico. Get off the mainland to visit the islands of Culebra and Vieques.

Key West, Florida

Key West

Key West is a tropical island at the end of the Florida Keys where roosters roam free, flip flops are worn as dress shoes and beach vibes rule above all else. The key is home to many restaurants, bars, boutique hotels, historic sights, colorful wooden houses and waters dotted with sailboats. 

The Overseas Highway

The Overseas Highway is scenic stretch of road crossing the ocean and connecting the Florida Keys with mainland Florida. We made a day trip of our drive on the highway, stopping at multiple keys along the way.

Tiki Bar at Postcard Inn.  A hotel bar on Islamorada credited with inventing the Rum Runner cocktail. We stopped for a drink to find the restaurant under renovation. 

Robbie’s.  We ordered a Rum Runner here and stopped to hand feed the tarpon swimming around the restaurant’s dock. For $5, we bought a bucket of fish and dangled them over the edge of the dock. Soon after, a tarpon jumped from the water snatching the fish directly from our hands. 

Keys Fisheries.  A restaurant on Islamorada with all manner of fresh caught seafood. We stopped here for their famous lobster ruebens. 

Sea Turtle Hospital.  A sanctuary to rehabilitate rescued sea turtles on Marathon Key. Tour the facility and its tanks of sea turtles. I visited here on a trip to the keys years ago.

7 Mile Bridge.  A stretch of the overseas highway crossing 7 miles of open ocean. Stop at the 7 Mile Bridge Vista to walk onto the pedestrian bridge and overlook and the blue tropical seas. We spotted manatees swimming here. 

Bahia Honda State Park.  We stopped here for some afternoon sun and beach time. We lounged in the shallow waters of Loggerhead and Sandspur beaches.

Big Pine Key.  One of the last keys before reaching Key West. We kept an eye out for the Key Deer, an endangered species of tiny deer native to the island. 

The Conch Republic 

Key West, also called The Conch Republic, is truly an island paradise! While here, eat fried conch fritters and conch ceviche from one of the islands many restaurants, buy a conch shell from a souvenir shop and spot Conch Republic flags flying from local’s homes. 

Sights

Duval Street.  A famed and historic street stretching a mile across the key with seafood restaurants, cocktail bars, Cuban cafes, art galleries and souvenir shops.The north end is the most touristy while the south end is quieter and more local. 

The Old Town.  A historic area with colorful wooden house located at the north end of Duval street. 

Southern Most Point Buoy.  A striped concrete buoy and monument marking the southern most point in the continental US only 90 miles from Cuba. 

Bahamas Village.  A neighborhood in the south side of the key settled by immigrants from the Bahamas. Come to see the colorful houses and tropical gardens. 

The Hemingway Museum.  The former residence of American writer Ernest Hemingway. Tour his home and writing studio where he wrote many of his iconic novels and short stories. Walk through the grounds lush gardens and pet Hemingway’s cats. 

Key West Lighthouse.  A short white lighthouse with a spiral stair case leading to the crown with panoramic views of the key. The light house keeper’s house is a small museum dedicated the history of Key West.

Fort Zachary Taylor Beach.  A park with a coral beach, short nature trails and a civil war era fort. Come here to swim and sunbathe, walk the nature trails and explore the cannon lined red brick and black cement fortress. The beach has a snack & beverage hut renting umbrellas & lounges. Wear beach shoes to avoid the jagged coral lining the beach. Along the shore is a shaded park with picnic tables and grills. 

Higgs Beach.  A small but sandy beach between two piers for snorkeling, swimming and swimming. I came here several years ago on a previous trip to Key West.

Mallory Square.  No night in Key West would be complete without joining hundreds of people and watching the sunset from Mallory Square during the daily sunset festival. Arrive early with a drink in hand as the day ends and the night begins. 

Truman Waterfront Farmers Market. A Thursday afternoon market with vendors selling boozy popsicles, empanadas, samosas, honey, breads, cheeses, vegetables and tropical fruits like dragon fruit, pineapple, papaya, star fruit, lychee & star fruit. 

Where to Eat and Drink

Key West is where “it’s 5 o’clock somewhere” and “island time” meet.  There are many restaurants with laid back vibes and bars serving tropical cocktails. 

Tiki Bar.  A cocktail bar with classic tiki drinks like the Mai Tai, Jungle Bird, Zombie and Hurricane. There is live music nightly, a shop selling tiki mugs and hidden tiki bar in the back.

Eaton Street Seafood Market.  A seafood market and restaurant serving the day’s fresh catch. We came for conch ceviche, stone crab claws and beers from Islamorada Brewing. 

Schooner Wharf Bar.  Come here for the shrimp! They source their shrimp from Key West’s last shrimping boat docked in front of the restaurant. We devoured the coconut shrimp and drunken shrimp, a peel and eat shrimp boiled in beer and spices! 

Speakeasy Inn and Rum Bar.  An inn with several rooms and a rum bar with one of the largest collections of rum in the US. Sip on rum neat the at bar chatting with locals and other vacationers or sit on their porch overlooking Duval Street while enjoying a Painkiller. 

Hemingway Social Club.  A cocktail bar attached to the Hemingway Rum Distillery. Come here for cocktails like a Hemingway Daiquiri made with their house run while listening to the live music.

Cafelito.  A cafe with a walk up window selling iced Cuban coffees and Cuban pastries like the guava and cheese turn over.

Sally Frog’s.  A bar near Malloy Square with cocktails and local beers like the Crazy Lady Honey Blonde Ale brewed at The Waterfront Brewery.

Cuban Coffee Queen.  A small coffee shack by the harbor selling cups of Cuban coffee.

Cocomelon.  A juice bar and cafe selling ice cold fresh coconuts. Come here to sip coconut water from the tropical fruit while relaxing in their patio.

Kermit’s Key Lime Shop.  Come for the key lime pie! They sell it by the slice, whole and frozen on a stick. 

Dry Tortugas National Park

60 miles from Key West are the Dry Tortugas, a national park with several low lying islands, protected marine and avian reserves, a massive civil war fortress, a light house and a campground. 

Fort Jefferson.  An hexagonal three level civil war fort rising from the sea. The historic red brick fort is surrounded by a mote with a large interior court yard and the ruins of many military structures. 

We spent time exploring the 3 levels of the fort. The ground level houses many of the forts supportive facilities like a bakery, cistern and the barracks. The second level was dedicated to the prisoner’s cells and the hospital. The third level is overgrown with trails leading along the wall past cannons and to the fort’s lighthouse. 

Outside of the fort is a mote and wall designed to protect the main fort from the sea. Walk along it to admire its historic outer walls, look out towards the sea and spot tropical fish. 

Beaches.  Outside of the fort, there are two coral beaches to swim at with warm and shallow water. The South Beach was the calmest and clearest for swimming and snorkeling. There is some sea grass, fragments of broken coral throughout the bay. The North Beach was a little choppier with less visibility for snorkeling. 

Snorkeling.  Along the wall of the South Beach, we spotted smaller tropical fish, some living coral, sea anemones, pink jelly fish and the carcus of a giant spiny lobsters.  

Land Bridge.  Walk the tidal land bridge towards the avian reserve of Long Key. The shallow stretch of sand it covered in conch shells, sand dollars and broken coral. Come here to spot pelicans and sand pipers. 

Loggerhead Lighthouse.  A black and white lighthouse visible on the horizon from Fort Jefferson on Loggerhead Key, nearly two miles away.

Camping.  There’s something special about camping on a desert island in the middle of the sea! I camped here overnight on my last trip to Key West and the Dry Tortugas between some of the islands only few trees and bushes. 

Yankee Freedom.  The main company ferrying between Key West and the Dry Tortugas. The ticket includes transit, a tour of the fort, snorkel equipment, breakfast and lunch, cocktails for purchase. 

Getting Here.  It takes 2 hours 30min to reach the Dry Tortugas from Key West with 4 hours on the island. Book in August and September for $50 off an order of 2 tickets. Book here! 

Where to Stay

We stayed at the Speakeasy Inn & Rum Bar! The boutique inn on the south end of Duval Street has two floors of newly renovated rooms and is stumbling distance away from their rum bar. Our stay included free parking, a welcome cocktail and discounted drinks! 

Getting Around 

Key west is very walkable, especially along the mile long stretch of Duval Street. Even so, there are many rentals offering bikes, scooter and golf cart. 

• Bikes $10 / day 

• Scooters $35 / day 

• Golf carts $100 / day 

The Conch Train.  A multi car trolly that rides around the city passing most of the sights with a narrated guide. 

Good to Know 

Locals leave during the month of September to vacation elsewhere. As a result, some restaurants and bars are closed. However, as this is the slow season, many hotels offer deals making the island more affordable to visit.

For Next Time…

We loved our time visiting Key West! We hope to return for more rum cocktails, sunset views and the tropical atmosphere. Outside of Key West, we would love to spend a few nights exploring the other keys more. 

New Orleans, Louisiana

NOLA

New Orleans is a historic city with a lively, liberal and romantic atmosphere. We fell in love with NOLA so much so that it’s where we’re planning to get married in 2022. Between visiting venues and wedding planning, we spent time indulging in the city’s unique Cajun cuisine and Creole flavors, riding the street car down oak lined boulevards, walking through residential neighborhoods to look at the colorful cottages, listening to Jazz echo from the bars while drinking in the streets and learning more about the city’s past. Above all, New Orleans is a place to relax and celebrate, one of the many reason we can’t wait for our wedding day!

Things to Do

Jazz on Frenchman Street.  This is the place to be for dancing and live Jazz. There are a number of late night bars, creole restaurants and artist markets to make for a memorable night. It’s much tamer and more authentic than the famed Bourbon Street. 

Ride the St. Charles Street Car. The street car follows St. Charles Avenue, an oak tree lined street covered in Mardi Gras beads. The street car is the perfect way to get across town while admiring the historic homes and mansions in the Garden District.

Order a To-Go Daiquiri.  Almost every bar on Bourbon St. offers a selection of frozen daiquiris made to go. As long as it’s in a plastic container, it’s legal to publicly drink anywhere in New Orleans. 

Beignets at Café du Monde.  Visit the original location, located in the French Market, the most famous place to order a beignet and cafe au lait. We were lucky enough to visit while a brass band was playing out front.  

• Beignets are fried rectangular pieces of dough covered in powdered sugar.

• Cafe au lait is French for coffee with milk.

Enjoy Creole Cuisine. A mix of West African, Indigenous American, French and Spanish flavors. Some of our favorite dishes are gumbo, catfish po’ boys and charbroiled oysters. 

Watch the Sunset at Lake Pontchartrain. We visited Breakwater Park to watch the sunset. The calm shallow waters reflect every color in the sky. Afterwards, there are a number of seafood restaurants nearby to enjoy dinner.

Visit a Cemetery.  The dead in New Orleans are buried above ground in elevated plots or mausoleums because the city sits below sea level. We walked thorough the rows of St. Joseph Cemetery and Lafayette Cemetery No. 2. Both of which were open and free to tour. 

Walk down Crescent Park.  A riverfront park located along the Mississippi with a 1.4mile path. Watch the ships pass by and sound their fog horns. Afterwards, cross the “Rusty Rainbow Bridge” into the ByWater neighborhood. 

Cross the Mississippi.  There is a ferry located along the river front at the end of Canal Street that crosses the Mississippi to Algiers Point. It’s a quiet neighborhood to enjoy a po’ boy for lunch, look back at the skyline and walk the levy. 

Neighborhoods & Streets

The French Quarter.  The Quarter is the historic center of New Orleans with Spanish and French architecture, gas lit lanterns and cobble stone streets. It’s a hub for live Jazz, all night cocktail bars and Creole cuisine. We loved wandering its quiet side streets as well as bar hopping on Bourbon Street. 

Bourbon Street. The city’s most well known street located in the French Quarter. This street is often packed with people flaunting Mardi Gras beads, having the fortunes read and ordering to-go drinks from the colorfully lit all night bars. It gets a bit crazy but is worth visiting at least once.

The Garden District.  A residential district flanked between Magazine St. and St. Charles Ave. The neighborhood is home to historic mansions and cottages, large oak trees and leafy palms. It’s a beautiful neighborhood to explore on foot or along the St. Charles Street Car. 

Magazine Street.  One of the city’s Main Streets with restaurants, bars, boutiques, art galleries, vintage shops and creole architecture. It’s about 6 miles long, stretching from The French Quarter through The Garden District and into Uptown. Every stretch of it is well worth exploring.

Irish Channel.  Located between Magazine Street and the Mississippi River, this cute residential neighborhood has many of our favorites restaurants, cafes and bars. There are lots of great Airbnb’s to stay at here. 

Marigny.  This beautiful neighborhood, just outside of the French Quarter, is a charming place to walk through to look at the brightly colored Creole cottages and shotgun houses. There are also lots of great Airbnb’s here. Come for Frenchman Street, the artists markets and local restaurants. 

ByWater. Basically an extension of Marigny, this neighborhood is a little more bohemian/hipster with flea markets, cafes, cocktail bars and funky restaurants. 

Arts/Warehouse District.  A former warehouse district converted into a hub for cocktail bars, high end restaurants and art galleries. 

Uptown. A broad area on the Riverside of New Orleans. Visit Maple and Oak Streets for the restaurants and nightlife. Both areas are popular with Tulane and Loyola students.

Lavender Line. Not technically a street but it encompasses a number of gay bars in the French Quarter north of Bourbon Street, many along St. Ann Street. Some of our favorites are Café Lafitte in Exile and Good Friends Bar.

See Some Art

NOMA (New Orleans Museum of Art).  The museum has a great collection of Southern, French and Modern painting, historic and multi-cultural artifacts and a remarkable sculpture garden with beautifully landscaped grounds. There is also a rotating gallery, it had a LGBTQ+ photography exhibit when we visited. 

New Orleans Jazz Museum.  A museum teaching about the origin of Jazz, some of its most notable musicians and its importance in New Orleans. 

New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum.  A tiny but educational museum in the French Quarter with many voodoo artifacts and altars. It’s a great place to visit and learn more about the religion. They also offer cemetery tours and bone readings.

Shopping

Merchant House Collective.  An antique warehouse with mid to late 20th century furniture, home-goods and accessories. There is a plant shop and an upstairs with vintage tees, clothing and jewelry. 

Frenchman Street Market.  A nightly market located on Frenchman Street where artists sell illustrations, sculptures, jewelry, decor and perform live music. 

Second Line Art & Antiques. An antique market with old wooden furniture, vintage clothing and taxidermy insects. It’s courtyard also doubles as an artist’s market. 

Magazine Antique Mall. A classic antique mall located on Magazine Street with dozens of booths filled with miscellaneous items and treasures. We found some unique cookware and dishes. 

Voodoo Authentica.  A tiny shop in the French Quarter with a large selection of voodoo dolls. It’s an educational place to learn more about the modern practice of Voodoo. 

French Market.  A market under a series of sheds in the French Quarter with food stalls, flea market tables and souvenir vendors. Though nothing like a traditional French Market, we enjoyed walking through it after ordering beignets from the original Cafe du Monde.  

Taste Everything!

If you come to New Orleans for one thing, come for the cuisine! There are so many dishes and drinks unique to this city alone. These are some of favorites:

Crawfish Mac n Cheese.  A Cajun classic made with crawfish tails, rich gooey cheese and macaroni noodles. 

Shrimp and Grits.  A classic breakfast dish with creamy buttery grits and tender Gulf shrimp. 

Po’boy.  A classic Louisiana sandwich made on crispy bun with a fluffy center. It always has a protein, usually seafood, and comes “fully dressed” with lettuce, tomato, a pickle and mayo. 

Fried Catfish.  A slightly gamey and flaky white fish. We often ordered it on a Po’boy.

Gumbo.  A traditional soup to New Orleans often eaten from October through March. It’s a savory melting pot of flavors and cultures having influences from the Indigenous Choctaw, West Africans, French and Spanish. 

Chargrilled Oysters.  Gulf Coast oysters that have been grilled with herbs and cheese.

The Sazerac.  A sipping cocktail made from whiskey, cognac and absinthe usually garnished with a lemon peel. 

The Hurricane.  A sweet, fruity, tropical rum drink served in a tall curved glass. 

Hand Grenade.  A cocktail served on Bourbon St. by a few specific bars. It’s a very sweet drink served in a tall neon green plastic container with the shape of a grenade at the bottom. Basically a hangover waiting to happen…enjoy! 

Restaurants 

Commander's Palace.  Commander’s is an unmistakable teal and white wooden restaurant located across the street from Lafayette Cemetery No. 1. It’s a family run business offering the best of high-end Creole cuisine in New Orleans. We tried the slow cooked gumbo, pecan crusted gulf fish covered in lump crab and a version of the crawfish linguini. For dessert, the bread pudding soufflé. Be sure to make a reservation and come dressed up. 

Between dishes, the owner sat down with us to chat. She said “we go to the same church.” A discrete Southern way of identifying with other LGBTQ+ people. Needless to say, we felt very welcomed and even shared a dance in the courtyard towards the end of the evening. 

Jacques-Imos.  It’s hard to choose a favorite restaurant in New Orleans but this one is up there! Try the snail butter corn bread, Creole Bouillabaisse, Crawfish Étouffée and bread pudding. Make a reservation in advance and come ready to eat!

The Rum House.  Located on Magazine St. and a gem for á la carte tacos. We almost hired the restaurant to cater our wedding.  

Killer Po’Boys.  The best spot in the French Quarter for po’boys. In addition to the classic seafood options, they offer vegan Po’boys like roasted cauliflower or sweet potato. 

Effervescence.  Relax by the outdoor fountain with a glass of Champagne, oysters and caviar served with a mother of pearl spoon. 

Pechê.  Recommended to us by a few locals, this restaurant in the offers Cajun and Gulf style seafood. 

Green Goddess.  A vegan restaurant in a romantic string lit alley in the French Quarter. It’s a nice reprieve from some of the craziness. 

Basin Seafood & Spirits.  Come for the Po’boys and Chargrilled Oysters.

Juan’s Flying Burrito.  If you’re on Magazine St. and craving a burrito, Juan’s is the place to visit. They have two locations. One in Uptown and another in the Lower Garden District. 

Cafes

The Vintage.  A coffee shop with artisanal beignets by day and bar by night. We ordered a flight of 3, the matcha, pumpkin and raspberry.  

Café Beignet.  Another popular chain for beignets. Visit the Bourbon St. location for a beignet, cup of chicory and of course live jazz.

French Truck Coffee.  A local chain cafe with amazing coffee, biscuit sandwiches, breakfast toasts and croissants. If it’s fully brewed, try the Oji coffee. It’s Japanese method of slow brewing 1 drop at a time over 24 hours.

Bear Cat Cafe.  A breakfast and brunch spot with cajun meals, vegan options and fresh kombucha. We ordered the crab scramble and vegan biscuits + gravy. Make sure to try the breakfast potatoes. 

City Donuts & Cafe.  One of the best finds in the city. Come here for a donut breakfast sandwich! Literally egg and cheese sandwiched between two regular glazed donuts. 

Orleans Coffee Espresso Bar.  A great spot to relax with a coffee or cafe au lait. 

Bars 

Delachaise Wine Bar.  One of our favorite spots in town. Come here for a glass of wine and to watch the St. Charles street cars pass by.

QiQi.  A LGBTQ+ dive bar with inexpensive drinks, a laid back vibe and outdoor seating. 

Hot Tin.  A rooftop bar at the Pontchartrain Hotel with great cocktails and views of NoLa.

The Elysian Bar.  A former church turned into a restaurant and cocktail bar. The nave of the church is now the main dining room with multiple parlors located throughout the rectory. It’s a funky and unique experience!

Old Absinthe House.   A 200+ year old absinthe bar on Bourbon St. offering traditional absinthe drip cocktails. It stands out from the neon lit cocktail bars lining the street. The walls are covered in notes and business cards from generations of customers, 

Good Friends Bar.  One of the many gay bars in the French Quarter but also one of our favorites. The 2 floor bar is a hub for the gay community, locals and tourists. 

Café Lafitte in Exile.  Considered the oldest gay bar in the US. It’s a fun spot to grab a drink on Bourbon St. 

Mini Excursions 

Outside of New Orleans, there are a number of mini excursions to go on. We booked ours with Cajun Encounters, a local tour company. 

Swamp Tour. New Orleans is surrounded by swamps that have had a large influence on they city’s architecture, industry and cuisine. They are also natural buffers that offer protection from hurricanes. We visited the Honey Island Swamp where we saw wild bores, alligators, cypress trees and Spanish moss while boating through the bayous and past swamp houses. 

Plantation Tours. Educate yourself on the history of slavery. New Orleans’ past is one we chose to learn more about while visiting. About an hour up-river are a number of plantations offering tours. We visited the Oak Alley Plantation, named for its row of 300 year old oak trees. Here, we learned about the lives of the enslaved people that were forced to labor here, the conditions they lived in and the African influences they brought with them. There is also a great restaurant here. Order a Po’boys and a flight of Mint Juleps!

Pro tip: Book a tour or drive here yourself. Uber and Lyft don’t drive to this area. 

Getting Around 

Take the Street Car. There are 4 lines that branch out from Canal St in the city’s center to different neighborhoods. Streetcars are the easiest and most affordable way to get around town. 

Download RTAGoMobile2.0 app to buy tickets. 

• Single ride pass costs $1.25

• 1 Day pass costs $3

• 3 Day pass costs $9

• 5 Day pass costs $15

On Foot.  Grab a to-go cocktail and start walking. The city is so photogenic and great for exploring on foot. 

Lyft or Uber.  Overall, New Orleans is pretty easy and affordable to get around. 

• $10 for short distances

• $10-$20 to get across town

• $30 to/from the airport to Canal St.

Good to Know

• NOLA is short for New Orleans, Louisiana

• Dress casually chic to semi formal for higher end restaurants.

• Riverside refers to the south side or area along the Mississippi.

• Lakeside refers to the north side or area along Lake Pontchartrain

• Watch out for scam artists on Bourbon St. If any ones bets they can tell you where you got your shoes…tell them you’ve got them on Bourbon St.

Next Time in New Orleans 

With our wedding approaching, we will soon be back in New Orleans. We can’t wait to share our amazing experiences in this city with our family and friends! 

• We hope to return for Mardi Gras and Jazz Fest.

• Tour St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 and Lafayette Cemetery No. 1 after their repairs are complete.

• We would love to go sailing on Lake Pontchartrain.

• Eat and drink more! Two places we wanted to try are Bar Marilou in the Warehouse District and Elizabeth’s in By Water.

Eastern Puerto Rico

La Isla del Encanto  

Puerto Rico is known as La Isla del Encanto, which translates to The Island of Enchantment. Eastern Puerto Rico is home to golden sand beaches, bioluminescent bays, verdant rainforests and waterfalls.

El Yunque National Forest 

El Yunque is home the island’s only rainforest. The landscape is full of lush tropical vegetation, waterfalls with natural pools, hiking trails, lookout towers, tree snails and frogs. Here are a list of sights and trails in consecutive order past El Portal Visitor Center.  

La Coca Waterfall.  An 85ft tall waterfall streaming down the face of a large rock. It’s visible from the roadside waterfall shortly after entering El Yunque. 

Yokahú Tower.  An cylindrical observation tower perched on a clearing overlooking the rainforest. It’s located less than 1km past La Coca Waterfall.

Juan Diego Falls.  A series of small waterfalls with natural swimming pools below. The water is cold and refreshing! The falls are reachable via a short and often muddy trail from the roadside. 

Sierra Palm Picnic Area.  The only restaurant in El Yunque with Puerto Rican dishes and drinks. It’s a great lunch option and picnic spot while in the forest. 

Baño de Oro.  A historic swimming pool fed by rainwater and streams. It’s no longer swimmable, however pathways lead through the gardens surrounding it.

Mt Britton Trail.  A thinly paved trail leading through the rainforest to Torre Mt Britton. It takes about 45 minutes from the trailhead to reach the peak.

Torre Mt Britton.  An observation tower at El Yunque’s second highest peak with cool breezes, rolling clouds and sweeping views of the Caribbean and Atlantic coasts. 

Mt Britton Spur Trail.  A trail connecting the Mt Britton Trail to El Yunque Trail just before the trail to Torre Mt Britton. 

El Yunque Trail.  The rainforest’s longest trail leading to El Yunque’s highest peak. It can be picked up from the Mt Britton Spur Trail. It takes an additional 45 minutes to reach the peak. 

El Yunque Peak.  Often within the clouds, the peak is surrounded by a forest of foliage with stunted growth due to the heavy rain, wind and erosion. There is also an abandoned medical building and series of antenna. 

Good to Knows:

• Bring water and snacks.

• Wear hiking shoes with good treads, rocks are slippery (speaking from personal experience).

• The temperature gets colder the higher in altitude you hike.

• Expect it to rain, bring a raincoat or umbrella and change of clothes.

• Rent a car. There are no Ubers or taxis allowed into the park. The drive is 1 hour from San Juan.

• Take a photo of the map sign outside the visitor center before hiking.

• Only park in designated parking zones. Rangers will ticket you.

• Arrive early, parking spots fill up quickly.

• Many trails not listed above are still under repair after damage from Hurricane Maria. 

• Reservations are no longer needed to enter the rainforest. 

Degree 18 Juice Bar.  Come here for a healthy pick-me-up after hiking in El Yunque. Located in the town of Palmer at the base of the mountain, they offer smoothies, vegan burgers and hammocks to relax in.

Rain Forest Zip Line Park.  An adventure park at the base of El Yunque with 8 zip lines traversing through the lush rainforest canopy. One zip line spans 2,300 ft and is by far the most exhilarating part of the course. We visited here after a day hiking in El Yunque.

Luquillo

Nearby El Yunque is the town of Luquillo, known for the Luquillo Kiosks. Located along the highway, there are 60 street side stalls and restaurants selling Puerto Rican street food and classic Caribbean dishes.

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Bacalaítos.  Large and flat fritters made with a mixture of batter and cod. 

Whole Fried Red Snapper (Chillo Frito Entero).  Whole fried fish, especially red snapper, is a typical Puerto Rican dish. The fish is fried until crispy from head to tail. The meat is tender and easily pulls away from the bones while the fins and tails break off like “chips.” 

Caribbean Lobster.  Also known as a spiny lobster, it lacks the large claws of a Maine lobster but is filled with much more meat. It’s grilled and covered in a mixture of Sofrito, a sautéed medley of pepers, onion, garlic and spices. 

Mofongo.  Fried green plantains that are mashed in a pilón (a wooden mortar and pestle) with oil, garlic and salt. Many restaurants make Stuffed Mofongo with seafood, vegetables or meat. 

Carrucho.  The meat of the queen conch. It’s often served raw as ceviche or salad either alone or with an arepa.

Salmorejo.  A mixture of tomato and land crab strewed together. It can be gamey depending on the preparation. 

Empanadillas.  Similar to empanadas but slightly flakier with rolled edges. Common fillings are meats, seafood, cheese and pizza. 

Alcapurrias.  A fritter made from green plantain and cassava molded with a leaf and fried. They’re typically filled with annatto oil and a meat or crab. 

Kiosks to Visit

Kiosko #7 de Sonia & Peyin + Kiosco Mi Favorito #49 & #52 + El Castillo del Mar Kiosco #54.  Visit any of these kiosks for Puerto Rican street food like empanadillas, alcapurrias, bacalaítos and seafood salad in an arepa. 

La Parrilla Bar & Grill (Kiosko 2).  For locally caught seafood & Caribbean lobsters 

Terruño Comida Artesanal (Kiosko #20).  For classic dishes like mofongo, carrucho, coconut rice and plantains. 

Relle Na’o (Kiosko 40).  For vegan options and build your own mofongo 

Mojito Lab (Kiosko 42).  For extra large mojitos & cocktails.

Luquillo Beach

After the Kiosks, head to one of the beaches. Luquillo Beach (Playa Balneario) is a swimmable palm lined beach behind the kiosks with more food stalls selling empanadas and pina coladas served in pineapples. Parking costs $5. Playa Azul, is the other main beach in Luquillo for swimming, snorkeling, paddle boarding, kite surfing, and kayaking.

Las Croabas 

Las Croabas is the furthest northeastern part of Puerto Rico. It’s a popular place for marine activities, exploring nature, relaxing on the beaches and kayaking to the bioluminescent bay.

Laguna Grande (Bioluminescent Bay)

Kayaking through the mangrove forests at night to reach the bioluminescent bay is one of our favorite things to do in Puerto Rico! In the lagoon, you can run your hands through the water, let it run down your arms and splash around. Movement causes the dinoflagellates (bioluminescent plankton) in the water to glow a bright blue color. 

Book a Tour. You need to book a tour to visit Laguna Grande. There are a dozen companies offering nightly tours from Parque Las Croabas. Most offer two tour times, one at twilight and one hours after sunset. The biggest difference between the twilight tour and nighttime tour is how much of the mangrove forest you can see while kayaking to the lagoon. Tours cost around $50/person and last 1h 30min. We’ve booked through Island Kayaking Adventure and Kayaking Puerto Rico. 

Good to Know:

• Visit on a sunny day, the dinoflagellates are more active at night.

• Avoid going when the moon is full, the dinoflagellates are difficult to see. If you do, tour guides will bring tarps to cover the kayaks to block out the light.

• Don’t bring your phone for pictures, they can’t capture the bioluminescence.

Visit the Beaches 

Seven Seas Beach.  This is the main beach in Las Croabas. It’s great for swimming, snorkeling and renting kayaks or stand up paddles. The beach has a sandy shore with a rocky ledge several feet into the water. The beach is divided by a mobile home park. The east side is narrow but long and great for walking. The west side is larger with pavilions available for rent and a nature trail leading to Playa Escondida and Playa Colora.

Playa La Matita.  A semi secluded beach east of Seven Seas Beach. It’s a great destination to kayak to, look for conch shells or hike to La Zanja from.

Playa Escondida.  This long golden sand beach has calm and shallow waters perfect for lounging in. The shore is lined with sea grape trees offering shaded nooks to relax under. The beach is popular with all groups of people, especially the LGBTQ+ community. It’s one of those beautiful and welcoming places you’ll want to stay at all day!

Playa Colora.  A semi secluded beach great for sunbathing and enjoying nature. The waves are large and the undertow is strong making it un-safe for swimming. Though not an official nude beach, people come here to sunbathe naked near the rock formations to the right. 

Getting to Escondida & Colora.  Both beaches are accessible through a nature trail at the west end of Seven Seas Beach. It’s an easy walk that takes about 30 minutes. The trail forks after about 5 minutes, take a right and continue walking. This trails leads directly to Playa Escondida. A short path at the halfway point leads to Playa Colora. 

Pro Tip.  Please take your trash with you and don’t pile it up at the trail heads.

La Zanja

La Zanja is a natural tench-like wave pool nestled within a cliffside and protected from ferocious waves by large jagged rocks. The pool is a secluded and unreal place to swim and listen to the ocean. 

Getting to La Zanja.  Walk down Seven Seas Beach, past Playa La Matita until it looks like you can go no further. From here there will be a trail leading into the tree-line. The trail forks at multiple points but all lead to a road. Take the road ending at a stoney beach. At the stoney beach, walk to the left until you see a trail leading up the hill and along the cliffside. This trail will lead you to La Zanja. From start to finish, it takes about 1 hour to reach. 

Safety

• Bring water shoes or wear shoes with good soles. 

• Do not attempt in flip flops or sandals. 

• Be very careful on the rocks and of waves 

• Be mindful of the current within La Zanja 

Restaurants 

Las Vistas Cafe.  A hidden gem and easily the best brunch spot in the area. The restaurant is located on the roof of a house with surrounding views of Las Croabas. Everything is handmade and takes a little longer but is well worth the wait. Try the fresh fruit salad and juices, strong coffee and brunch dishes like the French toast with bananas and coconut or eggs Florentine on a arepa.  

El Pescador.  Located in Parque Las Croabas, this is one of our favorite places to dine at for seafood and Puerto Rican dishes. Come here for a pan fried red snapper, the stuffed mofongo, creole crab salad, jumbo shrimp and anything with conch. 

La Estacion.  A former gas station turned into an open air jungle themed restaurant offering grilled and smoked meats and seafood specials. 

Getting Around 

Taxi.  Getting around Las Croabas can be difficult without a car. There are no Ubers and are very few taxis. If you need one, call this number to be transferred to a driver: 939-644-2817

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

Having visited Puerto Rico nearly 20 times, we’ve experienced many places across the island. Though we don’t live here, we consider ourselves non-local experts and one day hope to call this beautiful island our home. Experience Puerto Rican culture in the capital city of San Juan. Explore the colorful and colonial streets of Old San Juan. Head to the southern coast of Caribbean Puerto Rico. Visit the surf towns along Western Puerto Rico. See the indigenous Taino sights of Central Puerto Rico. Get off the mainland to visit the islands of Culebra and Vieques.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around the eastern side of Puerto Rico including: 

Day Trip to The Icacos Islands.  The Icacos are a key of many small islands with diverse sea-life, coral reefs, sandy beaches, migrating birds and marines sports like snorkeling, swimming & diving. They’re only accessible by boat. There are water taxi services or a catamaran tours that leave from Parque Las Croabas. From what we’ve heard, the best time to visit is mid-week to avoid the large crowds. 

Las Paylas Waterfall.  Nearby El Yunque and on private property is a natural river rock slide. An older gentleman who owns the property charges $5 admission. There are no official hours so you have to chance it if visiting. We tried but were turned away. 

New York City

Favorite Things in NYC

New York City is an ever-changing landscape of cultures, histories, movements, styles and cuisine. It is a worldly city, both glamorous and gritty filled with people from all walks of life. The city attracts dreamers and offers an endless supply of inspiration as well as its own challenges. Having lived here since early 2018, we’ve had the chance to explore and experience so much of what makes NYC unlike anywhere else. In no particular order, we’ve curated a list of sights worth visiting, hidden gems to appreciate, mouthwatering food to try and activities to do. 

Urban Hiking

One of the best ways to see the NYC is on foot. We often spend our weekends walking down avenues, across bridges and though Burroughs to explore the neighborhoods, discover new restaurants and see areas we would typically pass under while riding the subway. Get lost wandering, as Alicia Keys puts it, “these streets will make you feel brand new.”

Eat at an All Night Diner

NYC is known as the city that never sleeps. This couldn’t be truer than at an all night diner. Characterized by their run-on menus, cake displays and signed photos of celebrities mounted to the walls, these comforting places are waiting to welcome you at any hour of the day. 

Empire State Building

The Empire State Building is easily the most recognizable sight in NYC. It defines the skyline and offers 360 views of the surrounding metropolis. Visit the observatory and outdoor deck on the 82nd floor then spend the extra $20 to visit the very top, at the 102nd floor. Views from both floors are well worth experiencing during day and night. At night, the building is illuminated in white or themed colorful lights. Try to spot the white lights twinkling! Other special times to see the building illuminated is during Pride, New Years Eve and Valentines Day. 

Visit a Fortune Teller

Fortune Tellers are all over the city. For around $10, you can ask one look into the crystal ball or read your palm and predict your future. 

Bagel Crawl

Go on a Bagel Crawl. The city is dotted with delis, bakeries, bodegas and food carts offering these quintessentially NY treats. Order from one and split it amongst friends. After your first bagel, set out for your second, third, fourth and so on…enjoying the moments in-between bites to walk off a few carbs and see the city. There is an abundance of bagel shops throughout the Lower East Side. If you only have one bagel in NYC, make sure it’s a bagel with lox (cured salmon).

Central Park

Nestled within Manhattan’s grid of concrete and skyscrapers, is Central Park. The park acts as a retreat space for every New Yorker to escape the busy life of the city, spread out and re-connect with nature. These are our favorite reasons to visit the park: 

• Picnic! Gather some friends, bring a blanket, drinks, snacks and have a picnic. The park is filled with all types of lawns, fields and rock formations to choose from, finding a spot is never difficult to do. A few of our favorites are Umpire Rock, Sheep Meadow and Cedar Hill.

• The Lake. With so many scenic spots nearby, the lake is one of our favorite areas in all of NYC. From here, you can listen to opera singers perform at Bethesda Terrace, share a kiss on the Bow Bridge, row across The Lake and get lost in the winding trails within The Ramble. 

• The North Woods. Located in the northwest corner of the park between 100th & 110th streets, The North Woods is a vast section of the park with old trees, rolling hills and plenty of roads and trails to hike. 

Eat NY Style Pizza 

Grab a slice of New York style pizza. Characterized by its crispy thin crust and wide slices, it’s a staple of NYC cuisine. Look out for pizzerias with long counters lined with dozens of pizzas all sold by the slice. Many of these shops are open 24 hours and constantly crank out new pies ensuring a fresh and delicious slice at any time of day. The East Village hosts a large number of pizzerias. 

The Cast Iron District

Spend an afternoon strolling through the cobble stone streets of the Historic Cast Iron District in SoHo. Hundreds of ornately designed cast iron clad buildings define the neighborhood, many of which are now home to high end restaurants, residences, boutiques and nightlife.

Skyline Drive-In 

A drive-in theater along the East River in Greenpoint, Brooklyn paying new releases and classics. The parking lot has multiple screens overlooking the skyline playing different movies every night. If you don’t own a car (like us) the theater has a separate screen with lawn chairs set up to 

Speakeasies 

In a city where something new lingers around every corner, some of the best surprises remain truly hidden. A few of these hidden gems are speakeasies. Here are a few of our favorites and how to get in. 

• Please Don’t Tell. The entrance is located through a phone booth inside Crif Dogs on St. Marks Place. After 6pm, enter the phone booth, pick up the receiver and dial 1. The other side of the phone booth will open leading into the bar. The bar itself is known for it’s mixologists, often crafting custom cocktails to your taste. 

• Basement. Located in Chinatown down a flight of stairs on Mott St is a Coca Cola refrigerator door. Behind the door is a basement bar with a subtle carnival theme, emphasized by a self serve popcorn machine.

• Employees Only. The entrance, hidden behind the curtains of a fortune teller’s shop in Chelsea, leads to this classy cocktail bar. The speakeasy is known for its experimental drinks and prohibition era vibes. 

• Fig 19. A speakeasy in the Lower East Side disguised as a white box art gallery. Once inside, behind a hidden door is a cozy cocktail lounge. Friday nights can get surprisingly busy.

The High Line

Walk The High Line in Chelsea and Meatpacking. It’s an old rail line turned into an elevated park surrounded by contemporary architecture. It’s beautiful year round but our favorite time to visit is during autumn. Midway through, stop by Chelsea Market and eat your way through the food stands and restaurants.

Essex Market 

Recently relocated into a modern food hall and market, this is one of best places to shop for groceries or experience many of the different flavors that make up the city’s diverse cultural and food scene. The market carries everything from vegan cheeses, imported seafood, Puerto Rican coffee, Japanese groceries, NYC bagels, Norwegian salmon and African spices. 

French Row

Relatively located along West 4th Street between 7th & 8th Avenues are a number of incredible French restaurants. The French style bistros dotted between the be beautiful brick town homes and duplexes makes this area a relaxing place to stop for a meal and drinks. 

Roof Tops

New Yorkers flock to roof top bars for weekend brunch, evening drinks and city views. Here’s a shortlist of some of our favorites:

• Savanna Rooftop. Located adjacent to the Queensboro Bridge in Long Island City at the Z Hotel, this fully outdoor rooftop offers delicious small plates amazing drinks and unobstructed views of Manhattan.

• Last Light. Located on Bowery at the Sister City Hotel, this rooftop offers craft cocktails, chill vibes and near 360 city views.

• The Boom Boom Room. Located at the top of the Standard Hotel, this iconic and ultra glitzy spot embodies the glamour of NYC. Come for the high end cocktails, live music and make sure to check out the restrooms.

• The Broken Shaker. Located on the roof of the Freehand Hotel, this 70s style tiki themed rooftop features multiple bars, tropical drinks and tasty small plates.

• The MET Roof Garden Bar. Located on the rooftop of the MET, this seasonal bar features outdoor art installations, skyline views and overlooks the treetops of Central Park.

• Spyglass Rooftop. This intimate rooftop with some of the best views of the Empire State Building. As it’s name suggests, it even has a viewing periscope pointed directly at the building. 

Admire the Brownstones

Take the subway to Brooklyn to see New York’s historic Brownstones. These architectural beauties are scattered throughout the city with large concentrations in Bed Stuy and Park Slope. Characterized by their brown stone facade, elevated stoops and narrow width, these homes exude urban charm. 

Janes Carousel 

It’s not just for children, for $2, take a spin on Janes Carousel in Brooklyn Bridge Park. 

Smorgasburg 

Visit Prospect Park in Brooklyn for Smorgasburg. This reoccurring food festival is held every weekend and occupied with tents run by dozens of local vendors, restaurants and micro breweries. It’s a great spot to enjoy so many of the cuisines and cultures NYC is known for. There’s a smaller version of Smorgasburg held during the weekdays in Williamsburg at the East River Park.

Coney Island

This nostalgic and eccentric place is a usual highlight of our summer. We often spend the day here riding amusement park rides, walking the boardwalk, relaxing on the beach and eating fried foods. If you’re in NYC during mid June, make your way out to Coney Island to witness or participate in the Mermaid Parade. 

See Some Art

With renowned museums, countless galleries and entire streets covered in murals & graffiti, NYC is home to some of the best art in the world. 

• Museums. Visit the Guggenheim and experience the museum as it was intended. Take the elevator to the top floor then walk down the spiral ramp viewing the art as you descend. Other worth while museums are MoMA PS1, The Brooklyn Museum, the MET, the Whitney and MoMA. 

• Graffiti Walking Tour. There are numerous free and self guided walking tours across the city to see murals, street art and graffiti. Two of our favorites are the Bushwick Collective and the Coney Art Walls. 

• Gallery Hopping. Galleries are found everywhere in NYC, with a high concentration in Chelsea. Spend an afternoon hopping between galleries keeping an eye out for specialty pop-up galleries and exhibits.

Tawk like a New Yawker 

Easily recognizable, the New York accent comes from the mix of ethnicities, social groups and cultural influences. It’s known for its combination of excitement, hand gestures, attitude, unique phrases, cursing and drawn out words. When you’re here, it’s hard not to notice and even harder not to try speaking. 

Christopher Street Pier

A wonderful spot along the West Side Highway to layout or picnic with the gays after Sunday brunch or before late afternoon cocktails in Greenwich Village. 

Restaurant Row 

If you haven’t figured it out by now, you’ll soon realize that NYC is known for its food scene. With thousands of restaurants across the city, representing every cuisine, good food is never hard to find. A vibrant spot to enjoy a meal is Restaurant Row located on 46th St. between 8th & 9th Aves. Here you’ll find numerous restaurants, hole in the walls and an array of nightlife.

Roosevelt Island Tram

Ride the cable car connecting the Upper East Side to Roosevelt Island. The cable runs parallel to the Queensboro Bridge and can be ridden with the swipe of the same Metro Card used on subways and buses. 

Ride the Subway 

There’s hardly anything glamorous about riding the subway but it’s part of the NYC experience. Take the trains across town, look and listen for performers and don’t be afraid to ask strangers for directions. 

Directions to keep in mind: 

• Uptown = Central Park/Harlem

• Midtown = Times Square

• Downtown = World Trade Center

• Most trains pass through Times Square or Grand Central. From either, you can transfer almost anywhere. 

Grand Central Station

An icon of NYC and well worth the visit with plenty to do and see outside of your typical commute.

• Wander The Great Hall, admire the celestial ceiling and check time on the Connecticut Clock. 

• Try a seafood tower or whole lobster at the Oyster Bar.

• Whisper sweet nothings in the Whispering Hall. Outside of the Oyster Bar is a vaulted ceiling with columns at each corner. Stand diagonally across from another person speaking directly into the column. You’ll hear each other’s voice carry across the noisy hall’s ceiling.

• Drink a cocktail at The Apartment Bar, an old school NYC style speakeasy behind the restaurant on the south east corner of the great hall. 

• Shop for produce or souvenirs at the Grand Central Market. We usually grab specialty items from here on our way home; such as spices, seafood and Murray’s Cheese.

• Buy Churros from the Churro Lady. Make your way to the 7 train platform and buy a paper bag of fresh churros for a few dollars. They’re always a delicious treat!

Manhattanhenge

Manhattanhenge is a rare spectacle when the sun lines up precisely with Manhattan’s east/west street grid. During this time, the sun rises and sets within they city’s canyon of buildings.

East River Ferry

For an inexpensive way to see the city by water, buy a ticket and hop on the East River Ferry. Ferries operate between Manhattan, Brooklyn, Queens and The Bronx for less than $3 one way. There’s also a bar on board and an outdoor deck. It’s an easy way to enjoy the waterfront, see the skyline and get to Rockaway Beach.

Long Island City Waterfront

The LIC waterfront is one of the most photogenic locations in NYC. This stretch of park provides sweeping views of Manhattan, especially at sunset. The north end is home to the Pepsi Cola Sign, a favorite spot of ours to picnic during the summer. The south end is a favorite for its contemporary pathways and semi-private alcoves. In-between is Gantry Plaza, where dozens of food carts line up during the late afternoon. 

Both north and south ends have their own East River Ferry docks making them easily accessible. In addition, the neighborhood is only one subway station east of Grand Central via the 7 and one north of Brooklyn via the G. The surrounding neighborhood is home to several breweries, MoMA PS1 and a variety of restaurants and cafes. Try Sweet Chick for (veggie) chicken and waffles, Tournesol for southern French cuisine, Sweet Leaf for coffee or cocktails and Rockaway Brewery for beer. 

If you happen to be in NYC during the 4th of July, anywhere along the LIC waterfront is the best location to watch the fireworks! It gets crowded so arrive early and bring water. 

Plant District

Where the concrete jungle meets a leafy jungle. This district is located on 28th St between 6th & 7th Aves. Come here to stroll the street, walk through the shops and maybe haggle over a plant to bring home. 

Bryant Park

This urban oasis is magical spot to relax and admire the city. Find an open chair or green patch of grass, sit back and listen to the hum of everything happening around you. The park is a few blocks from the energy and lights in Times Square and adjacent to the quiet and calm found within main branch of the NY Public Library. Bryant Park also hosts events year round from group yoga classes, to a square dancing and a seasonal ice rink.

Play Chess in a Park 

Almost every park in the city has a series of tables with chess boards designed into their tops. Come prepared with your own pieces or test your skills playing against one of the professionals patiently awaiting their next opponent.

Order Street Food 

Some of the best meals we’ve had have come from unassuming street vendors. Whether it’s tacos, falafel, kimchi or pretzels, there’s likely a street cart or food truck selling it. 

Chinatown

Go to Chinatown for the food! This area of the city is packed with countless Chinese and Southeast Asian restaurants. Eat dumplings and buns, slurp on ramen, drink bubble tea and savor a purple yam ice-cream cone. The neighborhood is also known for its well priced grocery stores. If you’re cooking, buy live lobsters from one of the seafood markets, exotic fruits from a street vendor or hard to find ingredients lining shops’ shelves. Visit during Lunar New Year and participate in the neighborhoods festivities and traditions.

Little Italy

That's Amore! From pasta to pizza, visit Little Italy for authentic homestyle Italian cuisine. While looking for a place to eat, you can expect to be invited into every restaurant on the street by their respective hosts. No matter the choice, you can’t go wrong. For dessert, order a slice of tiramisu or a cannoli with espresso. If you happen to visit during September, go during the Feast of San Gennaro, the neighborhood’s yearly food festival and street fair. 

Union Square Market

Cook a meal using spoils from the farmer’s market in Union Square. Saturday is the best day to buy in season produce, artisanal bread, Brooklyn honey and other specialties from local and urban farmers.

TWA Terminal

If you find yourself at JFK, visit the TWA Terminal and Hotel. This Mid Century masterpiece is an iconic symbol of the golden age of flying. With numerous things to keep you occupied during a layover or night’s stay, it is a destination in itself. Order a drink in sunken lounge or outside in a converted airplane bar, enjoy fine dining at the Paris Cafe and watch airplanes take off from the hotel’s rooftop pool. 

Southwest Roadtrip

The Southwest 

The Southwest is a playground of incredible rock formations, other worldly deserts and endless highways. The region overlaps several states, includes many Native American reservations and is home to some of the country’s most cherished National Parks. 

Road Trip

There’s something so freeing and spontaneous about road trips: listening to good music, driving with the windows down, stopping at roadside attractions and drive through meals. With Devin and his brother, Desmond, we booked a one way flight from NY to LA, rented a car once we landed and made the rest up as we went. For about 10 days, we drove though Southern California, into Nevada, Utah and all across Arizona. I even used this trip as an opportunity to roll out the retro vibes with my polaroid camera and fanny pack. 

Southern California 

Los Angeles

After landing in LA, we drove to where Route 66 meets the Pacific Ocean, Santa Monica, a fitting start to our road trip. We spent the evening walking the pier, listening to the electronic violinists perform and watching the ocean tide roll in. For dinner, we ate at The Lobster, a staple seafood destination overlooking the pier. Here we treated ourselves to some West Coast seafood while drinking a couple rounds of Pacifico before calling it a night.

Randy’s Donuts 

The next morning, on our way out of the city, we stoped at the original Randy’s Donuts in Inglewood for breakfast. Randy’s is a landmark donut shop easily recognized by the massive donut resting on top of the bakery. It’s been featured in video games, movies, tv shows and referenced across Hollywood. We ordered a half dozen classic glazed donuts and coffee. Randy’s took it a step further and gifted us another box of artisanal donuts including: fruit loops glazed, apple fritter, sprinkled, blueberry iced and devil’s food. They hardly survived the first day of driving. 

Cabazon Dinosaurs

Located just off the highway in Cabazon, CA, these dinosaurs captured our attention and imagination. This roadside attraction, considered to be one of the greatest, features two giant dinos: A pinkish brachiosaurus named Dinny the Dinosaur and a green t-rex named Mr. Rex. We reveled at, walked under, around and even climbed inside both of them. 

Palm Springs Wind Mills

We didn’t make it to Palm Springs but along our way to Joshua Tree, we passed a wind farm with thousands of spinning windmills. They’re hard to miss and mesmerizing to watch as you drive by. 

Joshua Tree National Park

The park is famous for its namesake, the Joshua Tree. The tree itself is a multi-armed, spike leaved, desert growing plant. They are a fragile and enduring symbol the the Mojave Desert where the park resides, thriving in harsh conditions with little water and persistent sunlight. In addition to the Joshua Tree, the park is home to many species of cacti, nocturnal animals and smoothed rock formations.

Hiking Trails 

There are miles of designated trails to hike throughout Joshua Tree. After entering the park through the west entrance, we drove a little ways and began hiking. I still can’t figure out what trail we hiked but I think it was a combination of several. We spent hours hiking through a forest of Joshua Trees, along some large rock formations and through an area with a wash where we saw a few desert tortoises. 

Willow’s Hole Trail

During our second day in the park, we hiked to Willow’s Hole. Considered to be one of the more difficult hikes in the park, we began late in the afternoon and ended at sunset to avoid the heat. The hike is mostly flat, stretches over 7 miles round trip and takes about 4 hours at a normal pace. This trail offers a variety of the entire Joshua Tree landscape ending at a desert oasis surrounded by willow trees.

The hike starts off through a flat terrain surrounded by large rock formations, Joshua Trees and all other kinds of cacti and fauna. Along this part of the trail we saw countless whitetail and jackrabbits. The second half of the trail, leading to Willow’s Hole winds through a canyon of incredible cliffs and washes. 

The closer we got towards Willow’s Hole, the wetter the path got. We had to climb over large boulders in order to avoid some the larger pools and streams of water. Near one of the pools, we noticed paw prints from a coyote. We eventually made it to the oasis, it was a serene and peaceful spot to stop and relax before making our way back. The hike back was just as beautiful as the way in, we enjoyed the golden glow of the sunset across the terrain before watching the sky show off its colors. 

Maps & Park Pass 

Pick up a map from one of visitor centers when buying your park pass. The park pass costs $25 per car and is valid for 7 days. Ask a park ranger where to hike. They often give great recommendations based on what you want to do or see. Click here for a map and list of trails.

Set up a free account with All Trails. Their platform offers detailed info on all of the parks routes from info curated by other hikers. 

What to Bring

• Water

• Food/Snacks 

• Sunblock/A Hat

• Flashlight 

• A Map 

Other Sights  

Skull Rock. One of the many rounded rock formations in the park. As the name notes, this one is famous for its skull shape.

Pinto Basin Road. This main road winds from the north to south end of the park and takes about an hour to drive. Most Joshua Trees are located in the High Mojave Desert to the north while the Colorado Desert to the south is known for its its cacti patches. 

Pinto Basin. A vast swatch of cacti covered desert surrounded by mountains. It’s easily viewed from the Pinto Basin Road. 

Chola Cactus Garden. Located midway along Pinto Basin road is this incredible cactus garden filled with Chola cacti. Watch your step along the trail and don’t touch them. 

Ocotillo Patch. Located near the south end of Pinto Basin road is an extensive patch of Ocotillo Cacti. These massive cacti grow several feet high and gracefully sway in the wind.

Night Sky. The High Mojave Desert is located far enough from any major cities making light pollution very minimal and offering incredible night sky views. 

Where to Stay

There’s no shortage of places to stay around Joshua Tree. The park itself has a few campgrounds. There are many quaint desert resorts, motels and unique Airbnbs outside of the park. We stayed in an Airbnb Airstream about 20 minutes from the park’s west entrance. It

Salvation Mountain 

Salvation Mountain is a massive art piece located in the California Desert started by Leonard Knight in the mid 80s. The site is inspired by the scriptural passages with the simple message, “god is love.” Love, in our opinion is the true theme of this place. The mountain is covered in colorful and peaceful imagery of waterfalls, flowers and the yellow brick road centered around the most prominent word, love, situated above a giant heart. The structure is built from a mixture of hay, packed clay and layers of paint. All materials used have either been donated or salvaged. 

While visiting, we met Ron, the preservationist of Salvation Mountain. He’s leads the repairs and preservation of the massive art piece in line with the artist’s original vision. Ron has been living onsite for several years and mentioned having repaired the entire landmark, area by area, at least twice over since beginning his work here. He reminded us that the desert is a very harsh environment. Something as exposed to the elements as Salvation Mountain requires a massive amount of patience and care. 

While we visited, the monument was off limits and only available for viewing. A storm had swept through the area a few days prior causing damage to one of the faces and interior rooms. Ron estimated it might take 6 months to a year to fully repair. Though damaged, this place will never loose its heart. Even from a distance, visiting this place felt special. 

Slab City & East Jesus 

Located just beyond Salvation Mountain are two off the grid alternative living communities, Slab City and East Jesus. We spent hours wandering, observing and talking with some of the locals to get a better perspective on the places they call home. If you visit Salvation Mountain, you need to come here with an open mind. There is no where else quite like it. 

Slab City. This community gets its name from the remnants of concrete slabs left behind after the demolition of a military training camp. The slabs are home to RVs, permanent trailers, make shift buildings and piles of debris. Many of the folks who live here have come to live off the grid while others are here as a result of poverty. There is no electricity, running water, waste management or government. Despite that, there is a certain since of community with its own library, golf course, clubs and music venues. 

East Jesus. A sustainable and habitable art installation focused on creative re-use. The experimental community is built from discarded materials and salvaged waste. It’s inhabited by artists, musicians, writers and other creatives.

Salton Sea & Bombay Beach 

Our route to Salvation Mountain lead us along a road with countless washes depositing agricultural runoff into the Salton Sea. Curious, we stopped at a state park and walked up to the sea’s edge, only to notice the decomposing remains of fish and dried clay leading up to the shoreline. Further down the road, we drove through the town of Bombay Beach, a once thriving seaside community catering to celebrities, retirees and vacationers during the mid century. The town, now mostly forgotten is a place stunted in its growth but still inhabited by a number of families and artists. We passed a man painting television screens on the street, two children seamlessly sweeping dirt for leisure and a woman sitting alone on a chair in the middle of an empty lot. Many homes have been left behind due to the toxicity of the sea and damage caused by the salinity in the air. A sobering place, the town and the sea has an incredible history that should’t be overlooked or looked down upon.

Northern Arizona 

The Grand Canyon 

The Grand Canyon is revered as one of the greatest natural sights on earth. Its size at 1 mile deep and up to 18 miles wide, reveals millions of years of layered sediments and colorful rock. After leaving Southern California and heading for Arizona we decided we had to visit. By the time we reached Flagstaff, it had began snowing. As we ascended further into the mountains, the snow turned into a blizzard. Once we reached the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, it was a white out. As we overlooked the canyon, all we could do was laugh, barely able to see a thing. One day, we’ll be back. 

Horseshoe Bend

Horseshoe Bend is a 1000 ft steep bend of the the Colorado River in the shape of a horseshoe. It’s an incredibly breathtaking sight and truly awe inspiring. We spent the late afternoon wandering the rim and admiring its beauty. It completely made up for not being able to see the Grand Canyon the day before. Located just off the highway outside of Paige, AZ and accessible by a 1.5 mile hike to the rim. The overlook is open daily from sunrise to sunset for an admission of $10 per car. 

Lake Powell & Navajo Canyon 

Lake Powell is a manmade lake created by the Glenn Canyon Dam with over 2000 miles of shoreline. We decided to rent a boat for the afternoon from Antelope Point Marina to explore Navajo Canyon. Navajo Canyon is 16 miles long with massive orange and brown cliffs ranging in height on all sides. The canyon is pretty wide but narrows in areas with tiny offshoots speckled throughout. We slowly and carefully explored one of these before pulling out and boating to the end of the Canyon. 

Navajo Cliff Dwellings 

On the way to Monument Valley we took a detour to visit the Navajo National Monument and overlook the Betatakin Cliff Dwellings. At its peak nearly 800 years ago, it was home to hundreds of people and contained over 120 sandstone structures, many of which still survive today. It can be viewed at the end of a short hike from the Navajo National Monument Visitor Center 

Antelope Canyon. A picturesque, narrow and winding sandstone canyon. It can only accessed via a Navajo tour guide. 

Vermilion Cliffs. A sweeping wave of orange and golden shades of sandstone 

Tower Butte. A towering 5000ft sandstone butte in the middle of Glen Canyon. There are helicopter companies offering rides to the top of the butte overlooking the sounding landscape

Utah 

Monument Valley 

Monument Valley offers views of the most quintessential western scenery and landscapes. The valley is made up of massive crumbling rock formations known as buttes. The buttes were formed millions of years ago by tectonic activity and erosion forming the structures visible today. 

As we drove towards Monument Valley, we could see some buttes rising above the horizon and the clouds becoming a tinted orange color. We learned this is due to red dust particles in the clouds as well as the reflection of the soil. 

The valley resides on the boarder of Utah and Arizona within the Navajo Nation. When we visited, the park had just closed due to the outbreak of Covid-19. However, many of the buttes and mesas are visible from roadside overlooks. Within the park is a loop of road that drives through the center of the three most famous buttes: West Mitten Butte, East Mitten Butte and Merrick Butte. 

Staying in Monument Valley, with a host on Airbnb, we were still able to hike around the valley outside of the park. Our host directed us to the nearby Sentinel Mesa which had a trail leading to its plateau. Lead by a local dog, we hiked and climbed our way to the top. The path was a bit ambiguous the steeper we hiked but we eventually found our way. Once we reached its plateau, we saw what I would say is the highlight of our trip. We stood overlooking the valley with picturesque views of the entire landscape. 

Hogan 

Staying within the valley was an unforgettable experience. We spent the night in a Hogan, a traditional Navajo home. The Hogan is a domed structure built from cedar trees and covered in sand and clay offering a level on insulation from the heat and cold. The interior was rustic and cozy with multiple beds and a wood burning stove. The one we stayed in was built in 1934 and has been maintained ever since. Today, most Navajo People live in modern homes but keep a Hogan on their property for guests and ceremonial purposes.

Forest Gump Hill 

Many movies and Hollywood scenes have been filmed in Monument Valley. One of the most notable, non-westerns, is a scene from Forrest Gump. Along the stretch of road through the valley is Forest Gump Hill. This is the spot Tom Hank’s character stopped running after 4 years crossing the country. 

Mexican Hat 

Mexican Hat is a rock formation named after A large flat rock, precariously balanced on top of a small vertical base protruding from the hillside. You can hike around the base and climb up to the underside of the “hat.” From here, there are beautiful views of the green and orange hillside carved out by the San Juan River.

Valley of the Gods

Near Monument Valley and Mexican Hat is another area famous for its rock formations, buttes and mesas. It is a smaller scale version of Monument Valley with grand views and hiking trails.

Navajo Frybread 

One of the staple foods we ate was Navajo Frybread. It is a flat piece of dough fried in oil. We had it served two ways. The first way was as a taco, covered in bean, tomato, lettuce, onion and cheese. The second way was lightly covered in a sugary syrup. Devin being a baker, bought a 5lb bag of Navajo Frybread to bring home.

Central Arizona 

One thing we learned across our road trip is that Arizona is massive. The climate and landscape changes from desert to mountain, cacti to pine forests and snowy to scorching heat. On our way to the southern side of the state we visited a number of roadside sights and national parks.

Holbrook, AZ

Midway through the state is the town of Holbrook. This town is famous for its roadside Americana charm and western history. Located off old Route 66, the downtown stretch is lined with old buildings surviving from the wild west, retro roadsigns and its famous tee pee themed hotel. The town is nearby the Petrified Forest National Park and has its share of rock shops and attention grabbing roadside dinosaurs. 

Wigwam Motel 

We stayed the night in Holbrook at the Wigwam Motel. This is the famous concrete and steel formed tee pee motel lined with vintage cars and a retro neon road sign. The motel has 15 tee pees, each acting as their own guest room. The stay was incredibly cute and felt like we had transported to a different era.

Petrified Forest National Park 

The Petrified Forest is a National Park covering a flat area of desert that was once home to an ancient rainforest. Preserved under the soil and exposed due to erosion are the remains of fossilized trees from the forest that existed over 200 million years ago. Some of the trees are so well preserved that you can count the rings and feel the grain of the bark. 

Located about an hour from west of Holbrook, we drove through the Petrified Forest. We stopped to explore the Blue Mesa, an area of the park eroded by rain revealing colorful bands of blue, purple, grey and red soil as well as the petrified wood. We drove around the exterior loop, wandered its interior then walked through the Blue Mesa trail. Throughout all areas are massive logs and fragments of the trees laying across the ground. It was crazy to think that we were walking across land where the dinosaurs roamed and a forest thrived over 200 million years ago. 

Barringer Meteor Crater

Midway through the state is a giant meteor crater formed over 50,000 years ago and measuring nearly a mile across and over 500ft deep. The crater is accessible to view through the park’s visitor center and has two decks that overlook the crater from its rim. Within the visitor center are a large number of meteorites on display as well as small fragments of it for sale.

Meteor City 

Further down the highway is the abandoned roadside attraction of Meteor City. It was started in the late 30s as a gas station, grocery store and souvenir stand along the old Route 66. It’s an eerie spot to walk around and watch trains pass by.

Southern Arizona

Saguaro National Park 

Located within in the Sonoran Desert outside of Tucson is Saguaro National Park, home to the Saguaro Cactus. The Saguaro is the classic symbol of the Southwest with its tall waxy green trunk and multiple arms. The park is divided into two separate districts located on opposite sides of Tucson. The Tucson Mountain District is to the West and the Rincon Mountain District to the East. We visited the east park and easily spent the whole day here. 

Throughout the day we drove around the park’s loop surrounding the Cactus Forest, stopping to explore multiple hiking trails. The hike through the Cactus Forest was our favorite. It took us through a desert terrain densely populated with mature saguaros. There was one main trail through the forest any many offshoots which made it easy to get lost while exploring. Luckily, we knew the forest was surrounded by road so we weren’t too worried about loosing our way. Though so close to civilization, it truly felt like the wild west. We even spotted a diamond back rattle snake slithering across our path.

Tucson’s Barrio Viejo 

A historic neighborhood with old adobe buildings, all painted vibrant colors and landscaped with desert cacti. Barrio Viejo is one of Tucson’s first neighborhoods, influenced by Mexican American heritage. It is a stunning area to explore and imagine living in. 

Getting Around 

For a road trip, you need a car and at least a half tank of gas at all times. Not owning one ourselves, we rented. Throughout the trip, we drove nearly 3000 miles, more than I’ve driven in the past 6 years combined. Once we began driving, the miles seemed to pass by. However, while driving long distances, it always took longer to get somewhere than expected. We found it best to allow extra time for roadside stops, detours and traffic. For our first road trip, we consider it a success. We can’t wait to revisit the southwestern highways and visit many of the other sights the region has to offer. 

If we had more time…

If we had at least two more weeks to aimlessly drive throughout the Southwest, I can guarantee there is so much more we would have stopped to see and do. Below is a short list of some of those places:

• Spent more time in LA

• Drove up the Pacific Coast Highway in California 

• Visited Sequoia and Death Valley National Parks

• Stuck around the Grand Canyon and hiked 

• Visited some of the sights we missed in Paige, AZ 

• Stayed the night in Sedona, AZ

• Spent time in Albuquerque and Santa Fe New Mexico

• Tried to track down the lightening rod project in New Mexico

• Visited the West District at Saguaro 

• Crossed the boarder into Mexico an afternoon