St. Croix, USVI
St. Croix, USVI
St. Croix is the largest of the US Virgin Islands. Its hilly and aired landscape is flanked by turquoise bays, white sand beaches and coral reefs. The former Danish colony is home to historic towns, cannon lined forts and the ruins of old sugar mills. It’s escaped the demands of mass tourism seen on neighboring islands, allowing it to maintain its local atmosphere and sleepy vibes.
Christiansted
Christiansted is the former Danish capital and main town on St. Croix. Historic pastel painted buildings with contrasting wooden shutters line the town’s streets. Brick sidewalks covered by arched walkways lead past shops selling locally made textiles, jewelry, clothes and souvenirs. A colonial era fort overlooks the boat dotted harbor while a boardwalk meanders past restaurants, bars, dive shops and hotels. It has a small town feeling where chickens roam freely and strangers say hello.
Christiansted Boardwalk. A waterfront walkway that snakes along Christiansted’s harbor. It’s a busting place with a series of businesses including dive shops, hotels, restaurants and bars. Many boat tours, fishing charters, dive excursions and seaplanes leave from here. It’s especially lively on weekend evenings.
Fort Christiansvaern. A well preserved Danish fortress with yellow painted walls, green wooden shutters, wrought iron hinges and a series of cannons pointed towards the sea. Arched passageways lead to the fort’s supportive rooms including the officer quarters, barracks, prisons, power magazine, armory, kitchen and latrine. The second floor offers views of the town and harbor.
Old Danish Customs House. A mustard painted colonial era building adjacent to Fort Christiansvaern built to collect taxes during Danish rule. It’s recognizable by its brick “welcoming arms” staircase and symmetrical design.
Government House Christiansted. A stately Dutch colonial building used by the former governors of the Danish West Indies. It’s one of three governor’s mansions used but the governor of the US Virgin Islands.
The Steeple Building. A 250 year old building with a wooden clock tower. It’s been used as a church, bakery, storehouse and school throughout its lifetime.
Frederiksted
Frederiksted is a small town on the island’s western shores with Danish colonial buildings, a seaside promenade, historic fort, cruise ship pier and lengthy stretch of sandy beaches.
Frederiksted Historic District. A waterfront neighborhood with colorfully painted Danish colonial buildings and covered walkways that lead past dive shops, cafes, restaurants, galleries and hotels. Many of there buildings have been abandoned due to damage from past hurricanes.
Frederiksted Promenade. A waterfront park with palm lined walkways, grassy lawns, small monuments and seaside views. Local vendors set up tents selling crafts and offering island tours on days when a cruise ship is docked at the pier. Check the St. Croix Cruise Ship Schedule for dates.
Fort Frederik. A red painted fort with an oceanfront wall flanked with cannons. It’s the site of The Emancipation Revolt that led to the end of slavery in the West Indies.
Cruzan Rum Distillery
Cruzan Rum is the island’s most famous rum distillery offering tours, rum tastings and house-made cocktails. The historic property is dotted with industrial facilities, storage warehousers and colonial era buildings including the ruins of the sugar mill. The tour leads through the fermentation facility with large tanks of bubbling liquids, past the distilling tower and into aging warehouses with thousands of stacked oak barrels with aging rums. The tour ends at the bar with a tasting of 8 Cruzan Rums of and 2 cocktails. Book tours online in advance withCruzan Rum.
Other St. Croix distilleries include: Mutiny Island Vodka, Prosperity Farm Distillery and Captain Morgan Rum.
Jump Up Festival
Jump Up is a lively street festival celebrating St. Croix’s Afro Caribbean culture. Moko Jumbies walk the streets, performing and dancing to steel drum beats and live soca music. Street food vendors serve local staples like deep fried patés (empanadas), johnny cakes and fritters. Craft vendors and shops sell locally made goods like jewelry, soaps, textiles and souvenirs. The festival is held in the historic center of Christiansted 3 to 4 times a year on Fridays from 6-10pm. Check theSt. Croix Events Calendar for future dates.
Moko Jumbies are traditional stilt walkers dressed in colorful and elaborately patterned costumes. They are representative of protective spirits meant to lookout for and ward off evil spirits. The tradition has endured across several Caribbean islands, coming from West African origins.
Snorkeling Points & Beaches
Buck Island Reef National Monument. A desert island surrounded by turquoise waters, reef systems and sea grass meadows. White sand beaches wrap around its shores while picky trees and cacti cover its hillside. It’s only accessible by boat from the mainland of St. Croix making it a popular tour destination.
Turtle Beach. A pristine white sand beach on the western side of Buck Island with swimmable turquoise waters. The sandy seafloor and sea grass meadows are home to a large array of marine life. Blue ringed flounder hide beneath algae patches, pufferfish and spearfish swim by, starfish and conches lay on the ocean floor, green sea turtles, spotted eagle rays and sting rays glide through the water, ominous barracuda hunt prey and reef squid spray black ink at pursuing fish.
Eastern Reef. A reef at the far eastern point of Buck Island home to large formations of coral and tropical fish. Massive schools of blue tang swim between elk horn corals, colorful parrot fish chomp on the reef, cuttle fish glide past rapidly, large barracuda lurk in the currents, juvenile sea turtles swim through the shallow waters and passageways lead to the outer wall of the reef with deep blue waters.
Big Beard's Adventure Tours. A local tour operator offering full day (6 hour) and half day (4 hour) tours to Buck Island. Full day tours include a barbecue lunch served beachside with hot dogs, burgers, veggie burgers and mahi mahi. Book here.
Frederiksted Pier. A lengthy pier with a thriving underwater eco system. The posts under the pier and its freestanding mooring structures are completely covered in all kinds of brightly colored corals, anemones and sponges. Schools of tropical fish swim beneath it and within the crevices of boulders leading towards it. Star fish sprawl across the sandy sea floor while sting rays and spotted eagle rays hunt for buried prey.
Getting Here. The pier is the perfect spot for snorkeling and free diving with so much to see just beneath the surface. There is no need to swim out far past the first few posts. Enter the water at the south end of the pier across from the dive shops. Use this Google Map Pin for reference.
Dorsch Beach. A white sand beach located south of the Frederiksted Pier. It’s a quiet place to swim, sunbathe and snorkel. Crystal clear waters gradate from aquamarine to deep turquoise. The crevices of rock structures close to shore are home to tropical fish, moray eels, sea spiders and urchins. Juvenile coral formations, sea anemones and more fish are visible further out between the shoreline and double buoys.
Cane Bay Beach. A popular beach with a tan sand shoreline flanking the island’s verdant hillside. It’s possible to snorkel here however the deep water corals are best explored by scuba diving. There is a dive shop and multiple restaurants. Visit The Landing Beach Bar or Off The Wall for takeaway drinks and sunset meals.
Rainbow Beach. A popular white sand beach north of Frederiksted with lounge and umbrella rentals, jet skis and a beach bar. It’s the perfect places to sunbathe, swim and watch the sunset while sipping on a Painkiller from Rhythms Beach Bar.
Frederiksted Beach. A beach located just north of Fort Frederik with coral sand shores and swimmable blue waters. It’s empty most days but lined with food trucks and beach chair rentals when a cruise ship is docked. Visit the Aquaholic Beach Bar & Grill for takeaway meals and local beers.
Sandy Point. A pristine white sand beach with calm turquoise waters stretching nearly two miles around the island’s southwestern most point. The beach is closed from April to August for sea turtle nesting. Though we couldn’t visit the beach, we had a beautiful view of it from the airplane window as we landed.
Hikes & Lookout Points
Goat Mountain. A hilltop lookout with views of the verdant east end of the island and coastline. A gravel trail leads steadily uphill through dry forest home to prickly trees and flowering cacti. Chirping birds sing in the trees while the tiny St. Croix ground lizard jumps between rocks. The trail forks at the hillside’s saddle, leading up towards the summit or downhill towards Jack’s Bay and Isaac’s Bay.
Getting Here. The summit is reachable after a 40 minute hike from the Very Long Baseline Array Telescope. The trail is accessible from just beyond its gated enclosure. Use this Google Map Pin to locate it.
Pro Tip. Plan to hike in the early morning, starting at 7am to avoid extreme UV and excessive heat.
Point Udall. The “easternmost point” of the United States. It’s marked by a large stone sundial on a hilltop with views of the surrounding coast. Beware of swarms of bees!
Places to Eat & Drink
Mutiny Island Vodka Mill Bar. A tasting room for Mutiny Island Vodka built into an old sugar mill tower on the Christiansted Boardwalk. Visit during their daily happy hour from 4-6pm for a $10 tasting of each of the 8 flavors or a $5 cocktail made with any Mutiny Island vodka of your choice.
Thomas Bakery. A local bakery serving breads and pastries like cinnamon rolls, titi bread, raisin buns and coconut buns. Arrive early before the sell out.
Crucian Coffee Club. A coffee shop with flavorful brews, fresh baked pastries and a selection of Crucian patés like vegetable, conch and chicken.
Toast Diner. A breakfast and brunch diner with arepa sandwiches, hash brown casseroles and rum cake french toast. It’s open early, making it the perfect place to eat prior to touring Buck Island.
Rhythms at Rainbow Beach. A popular beachfront restaurant at Rainbow Beach. It’s the perfect spot to order a takeaways meal while lounging on the beach or stay for dinner and the sunset. Order the lobster tacos, coconut shrimp and fish sandwich.
The Landing Beach Bar at Cane Bay. A restaurant at Cane Bay Beach with local Leatherback beers and dishes like wahoo fish & chips, the crispy fish reuben and rum cake sampler.
Off The Wall. A beachfront kiosk with an outdoor patio overlooking the Caribbean. Come for sunset cocktails and island bites like shrimp ceviche, fried mahi bites and homemade salsas served with chips.
Aquaholic Beach Bar & Grill. A beachfront kiosk at Frederiksted Beach serving local beers, rum cocktails, grilled foods, salads and burgers.
Levels. A live music bar with nightly performers and Caribbean vibes. Visit on the weekends to listen and dance to calypso, jazz and salsa while sipping on island drinks, mocktails or local beers.
Breakers Roar Tiki Bar. A former tiki bar offering standard island cocktails like the painkiller, mojito and dark & stormy. They’ll still serve drinks in traditional tiki mugs if you ask. For food, they share the same menu as Harbor Prime. Order the fish and chips, crab cakes and lobster bisque.
The Bombay Club. A restaurant nestled inside of a colonial building with stone tunnels and stone walled dining rooms. Their full menu offers all types of mains but their specialty is seafood. Come here for the conch curry, mahi mahi sandwich and grilled lobster.
Tropical Ice Goddess. An ice cream shop with tropical and local flavors like soursop, cinnamon, coconut, dulce de leche and rum raisin.
Crucian Cuisine
St. Croix has a mixture of West Indie & Caribbean flavors brought to the island by different cultures and influences.
Patés (Empanadas). Deep fried pastries shaped like half moons and filled with a range of stewed vegetables, seafood or meats.
Conch. A sea snail famed for its large shells and succulent meat. It’s served in fritters, soups, curries and sautéed.
Pot Fish. A Crucian style of tropical reef fish, typically red snapper pr parrot fish, caught in a wire basket or pot. It can be deep fried, grilled or streamed and is typically served with creole sauce and a side or rice, fried or fungi.
Chop up. A vegetable mixture made of stewed or sautéed okra, spinach and eggplant.
Titi Bread. A local style of bread baked with pointed ends shaped like nipples.
Johnny Cakes. A lightly fried and doughy biscuit often served at breakfast.
Rum Cake. A Caribbean cake baked with rum and often glazed in pineapple syrup.
Leatherback Beer. A beer brewed in the USVI and sold at most restaurant and bars in St. Croix.
Mutiny Island Vodka. A local distillery making vodka from breadfruit infused with different island flavors like scotch bonnet pepper, ginger lime, hibiscus passionfruit and Caribbean roots.
Painkiller. A cocktail originating in the Virgin Island made from rum, pineapple juice, coconut cream and orange juice. It’s found on almost every cocktail menu on the island.
Location Specifics
Pleasantries. St. Croix is a small island and people here place extra emphasis on pleasantries like saying “hello” or “good morning.” Many people will often stop to chat, strike up conversation or simply help provide direction if you seem lost.
Stay Hydrated. The island can get very hot during the afternoon. Drink plenty of water throughout the day, while snorkeling or hiking.
Reef Safe Sunblock. Wear reef safe sunblock while snorkeling or swimming to minimize damage to the corals and coastal ecosystems. Many dive shops on the island sell it.
US Territory. The US Virgin Islands are as US territory. American citizens do not need a passport to visit, the island uses the US dollar and English the most commonly spoken language.
Driving in St. Croix
Driving in St. Croix is one of the best ways to see all corners of the island on your own schedule. The island can be driven from end to end in less than an hour. We rented a car from Centerline Car Rental for the long weekend. The company is well reviewed and prices are fair compared to other rental agencies.
Drive on the Left. People drive on the left side of the road using left hand vehicles throughout the US Virgin Islands.
Road Conditions. Most main roads are well maintained. Beware of pot holes, especially on side roads and at night.
Car Break-Ins. Do not leave anything valuable or visible inside your vehicle. Car break-ins are common across the island. Keep windows rolled down while parked and keep your doors unlocked to prevent broken windows.
Free Parking. Parking is free throughout all of St. Croix. We used two central lots in both main towns without issue. In Christiansted, park at the Boardwalk Parking and in Frederiksted, park at Lagoon St Parking.
For Next Time…
A long weekend was just enough time to get a taste for everything St. Croix has to offer and come up with a list of what to do next time we visit the island.
Ham’s Bluff Lighthouse. A rusted out and abandoned lighthouse with coastal views of the northwest coast. The lighthouse is reachable after a 30 minute hike from the trail head at the end of Hams Bluff Road.
Annaly Bay Tide Pools. A series of swimmable tide pools reachable after a 1 hour hike. Start at the Trumbull Trail Head near the Carambola Beach Resort. Bring water shoes to avoid the sharp rocks and sea urchins. Don’t visit during high tide.
Salt River Bay National Historic Park. A river and bay with mangrove forests, bioluminescent jellyfish, glowing plankton, hiking trails and secluded beaches. Nighttime tours in clear kayaks are offered 10 days before and after the new moon.
Carambola Zip Line. A zip line park with 3 zip lines, including “The Gauntlet,” a 2,473 ft long and 205 ft steep line over the Carambola Valley.
Protestant Cay. A small island offshore from Christiansted with a hotel and public beach. A water taxi leaves regularly from the board walk in front of the Harbor Prime restaurant for $5.
Cane Bay Wall. A trench along the continental shelf popular with scuba divers. It’s reachable from the shore of Cane Bay Beach. The Sweet Bottom Dive Center offers introductory dive courses and scuba rentals.
Estate Whim Plantation Museum. A restored sugar mill converted into a museum with exhibits on the mill’s history and the island’s involvement in the Transatlantic Slave Trade.
Prosperity Farm Distillery. A distillery producing gins and liquors like all spice dram, banana liquor, ginger liquor and amaro from sugarcane. They offer tours and tastings daily from 10am-3:30pm every half hour.
