Central Puerto Rico

A Lush & Rugged Landscape

The central mountainous region of Puerto Rico is a lush and rugged landscape with tree covered mountains, ancient cave systems, breathtaking canyons, mesmerizing waterfalls, scenic hiking trails, coffee haciendas and Taino archeological sights. We’ve ventured to the interior of the island on previous trips, getting to explore more of its natural landscapes, biodiversity and learn about its history. 

Natural Landmarks  

The interior of the island is home to many natural landmarks worth visiting. Rent a car and road-trip through the interior to swim below waterfalls, explore caves, traverse canyons and overlook the mountains from scenic lookouts. 

Canyon Blanco.  A canyon with large white rocks and cliffs polished smooth by the river. There is a trail leading along the canyon with Taino petroglyphs, a small beach and views of the surrounding mountainside. 

• Petroglyphs.  There are well defined Taino petroglyphs dating back hundreds of years carved into some boulders throughout the canyon. The most notable are figures of babies swaddled in blankets. They’re unmarked but easily visible if you’re looking. The petroglyphs are primarily located on large boulders downriver from the bridge before entering the canyon. 

• Getting Here.  Take PR-140 and park at “Parking For El Sofa” just before a small bridge over the river. Walk down the west bank of the river and wade through it on foot before the rapids to reach the canyon trail. Alternatively, there is paid parking at Private Property a few minutes past the bridge for $10 with access to the canyon and trail. 

• Good to Know.  The canyon is one of the most beautiful sights on the island but is difficult to reach. There is no cell service here. Download offline maps before traveling to the canyon. Don’t go on rainy days. Flash floods and rising waters are common. 

Cueva Ventana.  A cave that leads underground through multiple chambers with bat colonies, stalactites and stalagmites before reaching a cliffside opening that overlooks the valley and river below. From here, Taino petroglyphs can be seen as cave birds and bats flutter into and out of the window like opening of the cave. It’s located 15 minutes from the city of Arecibo. Make reservations online ahead of time. 

Cueva La Clarito.  A cave with a large chamber, giant flow stone, stalactites, stalagmites and petroglyphs dating back thousands of years. It’s accessible along the tour to Cueva Ventana. 

Gozalandia Falls.  A waterfall over a smooth rock cliff with a natural swimming pool below it. Upstream are several river pools and another waterfall with a natural swimming pool. Parking costs $10. There is restaurant and bar at the entrance selling fresh coco frio (cold coconuts).

Doña Juana Waterfall.  A 100ft tall waterfall with a swimming pool at its base, It’s a popular roadside stop in the central mountains with a restaurant and bar. 

Lago dos Bocas. A mountain lake created by a dam popular with locals for fishing and kayaking. It’s located 20 minutes from the city of Arecibo. 

Cerro Las Tetas.  A mountain range known for its twin peaks that resemble a pair of breasts. It’s visible from various roadside overlooks and pull offs along Highway 1 in Salinas. 

Cerro de Punta.  The tallest point on the island measuring 4,390 feet above sea level. Park along the road, Ruta Panoramica (PR-143), at the trail head and hike about 20 minutes to reach the summit. On a clear day, there are views across the island. Be cautious of the wasp nests in the bushes at the lookout.

El Yunque National Forest.  A rainforest full of lush tropical vegetation, waterfalls with natural pools, hiking trails, lookout towers, tree snails and frogs. Read more about El Yunque in our Eastern Puerto Rico Guide. 

Adventure Tourism

The rugged interior of the island is a popular place for adventure tourism and contrasts with the golden beaches surrounding the island. Come here to overlook Puerto Rico from its tallest peak, speed down one of the world’s longest zip-lines and hike miles up a river canyon. 

Tanama River Eco-Adventure.  On a guided tour, we hiked up the Tanama River, a river located in a canyon with steep walls, overgrown cliffs, small waterfalls and stalactite covered caves. Hiking through the forest to reach the river. Our guide, pointed out flora invasive to the island, toxic vegetation and medicinal plants. Once reaching the river, we plunged in and began a miles long journey upstream, swimming against the current, wading through the water and crawling into dark caves. On our return, we floated downstream and let the current lazily carry us back the starting point. Along the way, we learned that the Tanama River is the original route the Taino people traveled to navigate between the coast and the mountains. We booked the experience through Viator.

Toro Verde Adventure Park.  An adventure park high in the mountains known for two of the world’s longest zip lines, suspension bridges and smaller zip lines. 

• The Monster.  The zip line measures over 1.5 miles long and spans between two lush mountains above a 1,000 feet deep canyon. Unlike typical zip lines, on The Monster, you lay flat in a cocoon flying between the mountains reaching speeds over 90 miles per hour. 

• The Beast.  The park’s other super long zip line. We have yet to ride this one but have it on our list for next time. 

• Toro Bikes.  A zip line with bikes attached to the cable and used to peddle back and forth between towers. 

• Good to Know.  The park is located about 2 hours from San Juan. Book tickets online in advance and prepare to wait in-line for over an hour for your chance at riding The Monster or The Beast. Phones and cameras are not permitted. Photos are available for sale.

The Land of The Tainos

The central mountainous region was home to the Taino people, a pre-Columbian culture that populated the Puerto Rico and other Caribbean islands hundreds of years ago. Today, several archeological sights including ceremonial grounds, detailed petroglyphs and museums with artifacts from the Tainos are on display throughout the region. 

Cemí Mountain.  A mountain with 3 distinct peaks that held spiritual and cultural important to the Taino people. Many artifacts have been found shaped in the likeness of the mountain.  

Caguana Ceremonial Indigenous Heritage Center.  A Taino archeological park at the base of the sacred Cemí Mountain with outdoor ball courts and stone monoliths carved with ornate petroglyphs of humanoid figures, condors and a fish. The sight is one of the most important Taino archeological sights in the Caribbean. 

Caguana Ceremonial Indigenous Heritage Museum. A museum with hundreds of Taino artifacts including: tools made from manatee bone and shells, remnants of clay pottery, stone axe heads, stone ceremonial belts and statues representing the Cemí Mountain. 

La Piedra Escrita.  A massive river boulder with Taino petroglyphs including faces, swirling formations and an iconic frog. Many locals come here to swim in the natural pool at the base of the boulder. 

El Cemí Monument Museum.  A museum built in the shape of a giant Cemí with exhibits that promote and celebrate the Taino culture and people. It houses Taino artifacts including wooden vomit spatulas, tools made from bone and shells, clay pottery, stone axe heads and statues representing the Cemí Mountain. There is a grave of a Tiano woman outside of the museum. 

Coffee Haciendas 

The mountainous region provides the perfect climate and conditions for coffee farming. There are dozens of coffee haciendas across the region growing beans for cafes across the island and offering tours of their farms. 

Hacienda San Pedro. A coffee hacienda with a cafe, shop, museum, processing factory and farm stand with local produce, honey and juices. 

Good to Know.  Many of the coffee haciendas are remote and have inconsistent hours making them difficult to visit. Call ahead to confirm hours and availability. 

Getting Around

By Car.  The only way to get around the central mountainous region is by car, preferably one with all wheel drive. Many of the roads twist and turn around the mountainsides and steep valleys. 

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

Having visited Puerto Rico nearly 20 times, we’ve experienced many places across the island. Though we don’t live here, we consider ourselves non-local experts and one day hope to call this beautiful island our home. Explore the colorful and colonial streets of Old San Juan. Experience Puerto Rican culture in the capital city of San Juan. Head to the southern coast of Caribbean Puerto Rico. Hike the El Yunque Rainforest in Eastern Puerto Rico. Visit the surf towns along Western Puerto Rico. Get off the mainland to visit the islands of Culebra and Vieques.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around the interior and mountainous regions of Puerto Rico including: 

• Explore Arecibo.  Spend a weekend exploring the beaches, sea arches and caves in Arecibo. 

• Rio Camuy Caves.  A vast cave system with an underwater river, large caverns, stalactites, stalagmites, rock formations and colonies of bats. It located about an hour from San Juan between the central mountains and the town of Arecibo. 

• Hike Cerro Mime.  A steep grassy mountain peak with views of the surrounding valleys. 

• Toro Negro State Forest.  A forested area in the central mountainous region with hiking trails, waterfalls, mountain peaks and camp grounds.

• River Caving Tour.  Join a kayaking tour through one of the mountainous rivers and caves. El Batay Adventures across from the Caguana Ceremonial Indigenous Heritage Center offers excursions. 

Caribbean Puerto Rico

The Caribbean Coast

Puerto Rico’s Caribbean Coast offers a tropical and cultural escape to some of the island’s best gems. The coast features unspoiled beaches, protected marine reserves, a bioluminescent bay, a dry forest and pink salt flats. It is also home to Indigenous cultural sites and the colonial city of Ponce.

Ponce

Known as “The Pearl of the South,” Ponce is famed for its architecture, cultural sights and annual carnival festivities. We spent a week here, celebrating Carnaval and exploring other areas along the Caribbean Coast. 

Architectural Styles 

Ponce is a historic city with multitudes of architectural styles and colorful buildings. We spent an afternoon wandering the streets to see the mix of Creole, Colonial, Neoclassical, Spanish Revival, Miami Art Deco, Arabesque and 90s Modernist style buildings. 

An Underdog 

The city is a bit of an underdog; recovering from hurricanes, earthquakes and the effects of the pandemic. Though quieter and less traveled to, it has a charming local ambiance that can’t be overlooked. Like many Ponceños, we’re rooting for this beautiful city!

Sights & Museums

Plaza de las Delicias.  The lush town square and historical center of Ponce with monuments, statues, landmark buildings and adjacent restaurants.  

• Fuente de los Leones.  A large two tiered fountain with statues lions, a symbol of strength and of Ponce.

• Ponce Cathedral.  A large light blue and white neoclassical cathedral that divides the plaza. 

• Parque de Bombas.  Ponce’s iconic red and black striped former fire station and now museum. 

Museo de la Historia de Ponce.  Ponce’s historical museum with galleries explaining the significance of the city, its history, politics, architecture and cultural impacts on Puerto Rico as a whole. A local historian, Ronald, gave us a tour, recommended places to eat in Ponce and nearby places to visit. 

Museo Castillo Serrallés.  A large mansion overlooking the city that once belonged to a sugar cane & rum baron. It’s now a museum and event venue with lush gardens and city views. Come to tour its grounds and interiors while sipping on a Don Q piña colada from its cafe. 

La Guancha.  A waterfront boardwalk and beach with restaurants, kiosks, a marina and an observation tower. Hurricane Fiona caused structural damage to the boardwalk and its since been condemned. Many restaurants have since opened food trucks along a road in the parking area. 

Centro Ceremonial Indígena de Tibes.  A free archeological museum dedicated to the Tiano people with exhibits displaying artifacts including pottery, stone tools, shell jewelry and human remains. A short walk behind the museum is an open air exhibit with uncovered petroglyphs, stone platforms, ball courts and a plaza. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Campioni Pizza Birra & Tapas.  A popular restaurant for Puerto Rican style pizza (thin crust pizza cooked in a wood fired oven). Order the fruto del mar pizza topped with shrimp, calamari and octopus to and a sangria.

Lola Eclectic Cuisine.  An elevated restaurant serving international cuisine. Try the tuna tartare wonton tacos, grilled salmon on a taro cake, sea bass over lentils and ice-cream on a fried plantain. 

Mariscos Patio Beach.  A roadside seafood kiosk overlooking the Caribbean with fresh and fried seafood dishes. Try the octopus salad, shrimp salad and tostones. 

Tazza D' Oro Caffé.  A breakfast and brunch spot across from Plaza de las Delicias. Try the egg quesadilla or eggs Benedict on brioche. They serve Gusto’s coffee, a Puerto Rican coffee roaster. 

Con Leche.  A breakfast and brunch cafe. Try the Mallorca egg sandwich or breakfast wrap made with eggs and salsa rojo.

Chango Bar.  A dive bar named after the little black birds seen across Puerto Rico. Come here for a Medalla or glass of Don Q served neat. 

Carnaval Ponceño (Festival of Masks)  

Ponce’s week long carnival festival included nightly events, parades, performances and the famous Vejigantes leading up to carnival Tuesday. 

Vejigantes

Carnaval Ponceño, also known as The Festival of Masks, is famous for the Puerto Rican Vejigantes, elaborately painted paper mache masks decorated with pointed horns, jagged teeth and worn with colorful jumpsuits. The Vejigantes are the symbol of the carnival and traditionally act as a reminder of evil spirits. Nowadays, they’re an expression of Puerto Rican culture. 

The Festival 

Plaza de las Delicias is turned into a fair with food, drink and craft vendors, amusement park rides & a main stage hosting musical performances and announcing the events on the carnival. Unlike what’s typically expected from carnival, Ponce’s is very family friendly.

Food vendors fry all types Puerto Rican dishes like mero (grouper), mofongo bites (mashed plantain), bacalaitos (cod fritters) and cheese. Full bars serve medalla, the local beer, and a list of cocktails like piña coladas, cuba libres and rum punch. Craft vendors sell handmade items like Vejigante pins, masks, horns and painted jackets. We bought and wore a pair of horns, similar to the full face masks worn by the Vejigantes.

The Main Parade 

The main parade is the largest event of the carnival celebrations with Vejigantes, marching bands, floats, the queens of the carnival, classic cars & loud speaker trucks. The parade travels west down Calle Reina towards Plaza de las Delicias and ending in front of the main stage. The parade happens on Sunday afternoon before carnival Tuesday. It started around 2:30pm and lasted into the evening with festivities lasting even longer. Most people arrive by late morning and set up chairs along the shaded side of Calle Reina for the best views. 

Guanica

Referred to as the “Paraíso del Eterno Verano,” of the Paradise of Eternal Summer, Guanica is a sunny region with white sand beaches, dry forests and coastal look out points.  

Playa Santa. A popular white sand beach with turquoise waters, kayak rentals and beach restaurants. Stop for drinks at Mojito Beach Bar & El Anclan Flontante for all kinds of fried empanadas like fish, lobster, conch, octopus and shrimp. 

Guanica State Forest.  A dry forest home to many species of cacti, thorny evergreens and coastal mangroves. The park is divided by the Guanica Bay with several hiking trails that lead to beaches, rock formations and ruins. It’s designated as a UN bio-reserve. Located 30min west of Ponce.

• Fuerte Capon.  The ruins of a small fort overlooking the Guanica Bay and forest. Start at the visitor center and hike follow the 6 mile trail to hike here or park at Playa Jaboncillo beach and follow the shorter 30 minute trail to Fuerte Capon.

• PR-333.  A scenic coastal road with views of the dry forest and Caribbean Sea. There are many beaches, scenic pull offs and hiking trails along the way.

• Pro Tip.  The visitor center closes at 4pm and doesn’t allow people to begin hiking longer trails after 2pm. 

La Parguera Nature Reserve 

A marine reserve located in the fishing town of La Parguera. The reserve is made up of over 30 cayos, mangroves, sand bars, coral reefs and a bioluminescent bay. The only way to explore the reserve is by boat. We hired a captain for 5 hours with Joy Tours PR to bring us to different cayos in the reserve. 

They Cayos

Cayo Caracoles & Robo la Gata.  Two cayos with a shallow sand bars and clear turquoise water protected by the reefs and mangroves. Underwater trails lead through the mangroves and into the reef. They’re a popular spot for swimming, snorkeling, relaxing and partying. We spent the afternoon lounging in a raft, tanning in the sun and drinking Caribbean rum. 

Good to Know:

• Bring all food and drink with you for the day. 

• Wear water shoes to avoid sea urchins and broken coral. 

• Some cayos were closed due to damage from Hurricane Fiona. 

• Many boats often dock here on the weekends while the weekdays are quiet. 

La Parguera Bio Bay 

One of three bioluminescent bays in Puerto Rico, and the only one that people are allowed to swim in. Arriving on a tour boat at night, we jumped into the water causing a bright blue cloud of bioluminescence to form around us. As we swam in the warm salty water, it glowed bright blue with every movement, sparkling on our skin. It was a surreal experience that felt like swimming in a pool of glitter. 

We booked with Paradise Scuba. Our tour included unlimited medallas and 2 fired vegetarian empanadas. We stoped at Cayo Caracoles to swim at sunset before making our way to the bio bay. We spent about half an hour in the bio bay before returning. Out of all 3 bio bays in Puerto Rico, this one was our favorite experience! 

Pro Tips. The best time to visit this bio bay is on a fully dark, moonless night, after a sunny day and at least five days after the last rain. Bring a hoodie for the boat ride back. After swimming it gets cold.

Parguera Restaurants

There are many restaurants and bars along the main road in the city center of La Parguera. Most serve seafood, Puerto Rican dishes and rum based cocktails. 

Puerto Parguera Restaurant.  A seafood restaurant with dishes like octopus salad, whole fried red snapper and seafood paella. We splurged and ordered a grilled Caribbean lobster with a side of maduros (fried sweet plantains).

Isla Cueva.  A restaurant and bar with over a dozen burger options including beef, chicken, pork, fish and vegan. We ordered the fried mahi mahi burger, piña colada and sangria. It’s a great spot to come before or after visiting the bioluminescent bay tour. 

Cabo Rojo

A picturesque corner on the south west side the island with pink salt flats, desert-like terrain and turquoise Caribbean waters. 

Cabo Rojo Salt Flats

Famous for their pink and light blue hued salt ponds. Upon arrival, we parked at the visitor center. It has a quaint museum with information on the surrounding ecosystem, the indigenous history behind the salt ponds and their use today. They also sell bottled water and have a restroom if needed.

Across from the visitor is a 3 story tall observation tower overlooking the salt flats. It offers a great vantage point to take in all of the different colored ponds. Further down the road is an entrance to the salt ponds where we walked across the narrow pathways separating each pond. The salt flats are open from 8:30am-4:30pm

Cabo Rojo Trails

There are a few nature trails that weave through the salt flats and desert-like terrain. We spent about two hours hiking through them and exploring the area. When coming here, wear sun protection, bring a sturdy umbrella and plenty of water. 

Observation Tower Loop.  A trail leading through the dry forest from the visitor center to an observation tower overlooking a large salt pond.

Ruins Trail.  A trail that cuts across two large salt ponds, past a pile of salt, to a series of smaller ones and ends at the sea. The trail connects to the Observation Tower Loop and Bikes Trail.

Bikes Trail.  A long trail that weaves throughout the salt flats, frequently used by mountain bikers  

Coastal Sights 

Playa Sucia.  A crescent shaped beach covered in soft white sand hugging a turquoise bay. There are no nearby restaurants so bringing food, snack and water is a must. It’s a popular beach despite being semi remote and best to arrive early to find parking and a shaded spot under the trees. From here, we hiked to Faro Los Morrillos Lighthouse.

Faro Los Morrillos Lighthouse.  A cliffside lighthouse with panoramic views of the Caribbean. There are hiking trails throughout the peninsula, rock formations and steep jagged cliffs. 

Maunabo

A remote town on the far southeast side of Puerto Rico with lengthy natural beaches along the Caribbean Sea. 

Playa Los Bohios.  A pristine yellow and black sand beach lined with palm trees and views of the mountains. The water can be dangerous for swimming due to currents. 

Faro de Punta Tuna.  A historic Spanish lighthouse overlooking Playa Los Bohios and Punta Tuna Beach.

Punta Tuna Beach.   A secluded palm lined yellow sand beach. The beach is not safe for swimming but makes for a beautiful setting for a relaxing afternoon. 

Ecuarican Bar Restaurant.  A restaurant with Ecuadorian and Puerto Rican fusion cuisine. It’s perched high on a cliff with an outdoor deck overlooking the coast. Come here for the mixed seafood ceviche and empanadas. 

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Chillo Frito Entero.  A fried red snapper served whole with crispy skin, tender meat and squeezed with lime. It’s usually accompanied by fried plantains like tostones, mofongo or amarillos. 

Mofongo.  Fried plantain mashed with garlic and butter. It’s often served plain or stuffed with an option of seafood. If prepared with bread fruit and yucca, it’s known as trifongo. 

Empanadillas.  Puerto Rican style fried empanadas stuffed with a range of fillings like octopus, conch, cod, shrimp, crap and pizza. 

Pinchos.  Grilled meats served on a stick often served at beaches or roadside kiosks. Our favorites are shark and shrimp. 

Mojo Isleño.  A savory sauce made from tomato, onion, bell pepper, garlic, olives and bay leaves. It’s often served on fried red snapper, lobster or mixed with octopus and conch.

Mallorca.  A Puerto Rican pasty often shaped like a bun or swirled roll and dusted in powered sugar. Our favorite preparations are pressed with guava with cheese or egg and cheese. 

Coco Frio.  A cold and freshly opened coconut. Drink the coconut water inside then the sweet meat inside. Alternatively, enjoy it with coconut rum to create a tropical cocktail 

Rum.  Puerto Rico is unarguably the rum capital of the Caribbean with several distilleries and local brands served in bars across the island. Order it on the rocks, in a Pina Colada or other tropical cocktail. 

Medalla.  The island’s most popular local beer, recognizable by it’s small golden can. It has a light slightly nutty flavor and is served everywhere. Buy a 6 pack for the beach!

Getting Around

Fly into Ponce.  Ponce has a small airport with several flights per day operated by Frontier and Jet Blue. It’s located 15 minutes from the city center. 

Rent A Car.  Renting a car is necessary to get around anywhere on the south side of Puerto Rico outside of Ponce. There are multiple car rental companies at the airport. 

Driving Between Towns: 

• Cabo Rojo is about 1 hour 30 minutes west of Ponce. 

• La Parguera is about 1 hour west of Ponce.

• Guanica is 30-45 minutes west of Ponce.

• Salinas is about 45 minutes east of Ponce. 

• Maunabo is about 1 hour 30 minutes east of Ponce. 

Where to Stay

Casa Luna.  An inexpensive hotel in a neon green creole style building located 2 streets away from Plaza de las Delicias in Ponce’s city center. It has multiple private rooms with bathrooms, a public patio and outdoor kitchen. Book on Airbnb.

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

Having visited Puerto Rico nearly 20 times, we’ve experienced many places across the island. Though we don’t live here, we consider ourselves non-local experts and one day hope to call this beautiful island our home. Experience Puerto Rican culture in the capital city of San Juan. Explore the colorful and colonial streets of Old San Juan. Hike the El Yunque Rainforest in Eastern Puerto Rico. Visit the surf towns along Western Puerto Rico. See the indigenous Taino sights of Central Puerto Rico. Get off the mainland to visit the islands of Culebra and Vieques.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around the southern side of Puerto Rico including: 

Isla Caja De Muertos (Coffin Island).  A secluded nature reserve off the coast of Ponce home to a dry forest, many species of birds, coral reefs for snorkeling and diving, sandy beaches, turquoise water, hiking trails and mangroves. It can only be reached by boat however most ferries and tour operators have stopped visiting the island since hurricane Fiona and a series of earthquakes. 

Explore Yacuco.  Spend a day exploring the colorful hillside community and its nearby coffee haciendas.

Western Puerto Rico

Tropical Paradise 

The western coast of Puerto Rico a tropical paradise with surf towns, palm lined beaches and sunset views. It’s best known for the districts of Rincón and Aguadilla. The relaxing atmosphere is best enjoyed on a surf board at sea or under an umbrella on shore with a piña colada in hand. 

Rincón

Rincón is a tropical destination famed for its surfing, laid back vibes and large “expat” population. The district is centered around two main areas, Centro Puntas and Rincón Pueblo. Each has their own atmosphere, beaches and nightlife. 

Centro Puntas.  A sleepy stretch of Rincón dotted with colorful homes, verdant hillsides and beaches that wrap around the island far western point. Surf schools provide lessons while oceanfront restaurants provide offer views of surf breaks. The 

Rincón Pueblo.  The town center is a hub for activity in Rincón while capturing the laidback vibes of the island’s west coast. It’s home to weekly markets, cocktail bars, roadside cafes, island boutiques and Puerto Rican restaurants.

Surf & Snorkeling Beaches 

Rincón is the surf capital of Puerto Rico. It’s the point where the Caribbean Sea and Atlantic Ocean meet providing consistent waves year round. The winter months offer the best surf conditions with larger waves caused by strong Atlantic winds. Surfers of all levels can be seen riding waves from sunrise until sunset. There are multiple surf schools and board rentals near the beaches. 

Don Antonio’s Beach.  A beautiful beach with a coral reef located just off shore. The reef makes it a quiet and peaceful place to sunbathe or relax under the shade of the palm trees. It’s a popular beach for surfers to practice and catch waves. 

Playa Maria.  A very popular surfer’s beach for all levels of experience. Instructors offer lessons and rentals while shops sell surf gear. It’s great location to spot sea turtles and snorkel in the beautiful coral gardens on a calm day. The shallow but long shore offers a range of places to hideout under the palms and enjoy the tropical vibes.

Domes Beach.  Named after the giant white dome, a deactivated nuclear reactor, towering above the palm trees. Its placement offers a stark juxtaposition to the pristine nature surrounding it. The beach itself is popular with experienced surfers and for surf competitions. 

Sandy Beach.  A golden sand stretch of shoreline perfect for sunbathing, bodysurfing, swimming and surfing. There are a few boutique hotels overlooking the shore, nearby restaurants, cafes and bars. Multiple surf schools are based in the area along with a shipping container with surfboard and boogie-board rentals. A 4 hour rental for $25 or an 8 hour for $35.

Dogman Beach.  A very small beach with a reef on either side. It acts as a launching point for surfers to safely paddle out. It’s located just south of Playa Maria. 

Pro Tip.  Surf earlier in the morning before the waves become too choppy. 

Steps Beach.  A snorkeling beach with healthy coral formations and many species of fish. We snorkeled over large formations of elkhorn coral and spotted parrot fish. During low tide, there are shallow tide pools where families relax with children. The beach is named for a set of concrete steps washed up onshore. It’s also a great spot to look for sea glass. 

Playa Dona Lala.  A sandy beach with a deep shoreline and calm aquamarine waters. It’s the perfect place to swim and relax under the Caribbean sun. Vendors rent umbrellas, beach chairs and jet skis. There is a small plaza with cafes & restaurants behind the beach parking lot. It’s only about a 10-15 minute walk from Plaza Pública de Rincón.

Rincón Surf School

A surf school near Sandy Beach with board rentals and a range of lessons. We booked a 3 day surf class with 3 hour morning lessons starting at 8am. After some onshore basics, the paddled out to begin surfing!

• Day 1 - Dogman Beach.  The first day focused in the basics of paddling, standing up and balancing while riding the waves. With the push of our instructor, we were able to catch and ride several waves! 

• Day 2 - Playa Maria.  The second day was very similar to the first but at a different beach. With practice, we were able to catch several more waves with less assistance. An onshore photographer even snapped a few photos! While waiting in the lineup, we spotted sea turtles swimming in the reef beneath our boards. It was a magical experience. 

• Day 3 - Playa Don Antonio.  My third and final surf lesson was the most rewarding. We were able to watch for, catch and ride about half of the waves without the help of our instructor. From never having surfed before to riding waves on my own felt so rewarding. 

A surf lesson in Rincón is worth every moment for anyone who loves the ocean! It’s a mix of high energy and relaxation while being surrounded by stunning nature. The only advice to anyone learning to surf is be ready to paddle a lot! It’s all worth it once you ride a wave! Book Lessons Here. 

Rincon Sights 

Punta Higüero Lighthouse.  Located at the south end of Domes Beach is a Spanish style lighthouse and lookout point. It’s a nice place to watch surfers, spot for whales or enjoy a meal and drink at the cliffside restaurant, Ola Sunset Cafe.

Tres Palmas Reserve Path.  A nature and biking trail along the Caribbean coast and a gated cattle field north of Steps Beach.

Domes Trail.  A coastal nature trail north of Dome’s beach and around the nuclear reactor. It passes multiple smaller secluded beaches. 

Plaza Pública de Rincón.  This plaza is the heart of Rincón Pueblo. It hosts weekly events like the Rincon Art Walk and Farmer’s Market. 

Events & Markets 

Rincón Art Walk.  On Thursday nights, the plaza comes to life with artists and vendors selling handmade jewelry, sea glass, decorated drift wood, scenic paintings, local photographs, wooden cookware, oils, soaps, etc. At the same time, live musicians and performances entertain crowds in the center of the plaza. All the while, people sipping on ice cold medallas and tropical cocktails spill out of bars onto the surrounding streets. The art walk typically lasts from 5-10pm while the nightlife continues into the early morning. 

Rincón Farmers Market.  On Sunday mornings, the plaza transforms into a farmers market. Vendors set up under white tents selling locally grown produce, tropical flowers, potted herbs, baskets of eggs, empanadas, fresh squeezed orange juice, vegan meals and organic oils. The market is open from 8am until the early afternoon.

Surf Shops & Boutiques 

Centro Puntas features several surf shops, while Rincón Pueblo offers boutique specializing in handmade goods and home decor. A few we love visiting are:

Rincón Surf Market.  Located under Kahuna Burger Bar. Come here for clothes, beverages, jewelry, surf boards and sun block. The owner owns the restaurant above, hotel and surf school.

Stoked : Surf + Espresso.  A surf shop and cafe at Playa Maria. It’s a great place to come before or after surfing for coffee, juice, baked goods or surf equipment.

Mango Beach Surf Shop. Come here for souvenir t-shirt’s, hoodies, sunblock and aloe vera.  

Trove.  A beautiful home goods store with desert vibes and tropical aesthetics. They sell items made from dried grasses, handwoven area rugs, textural pillows embossed with palm trees and sand colored objects.

The Uncharted Studio.  A tropical boutique specializing in beachwear, jewelry, artwork and hand made items. 

Places to Eat & Drink

There are many amazing cafes, restaurants and bars across Rincón, here are some of our favorites in Centro Puntas and Rincón Pueblo. 

Kahuna Burger Bar.  A local favorite near Sandy Beach. Come here for the mahi mahi and veggie burgers. Add a grilled pineapple for a tropical twist. Their bar is open late, offering rum punch for $4. 

Jakes Java House.  A road side coffee shop with smoothies and açaí bowls next to Sandy Beach. 

Jack’s Shack.  A roadside restaurant with breakfast tacos, egg sandwiches and iced coffee served from a food truck and trailer. 

Caddy’s Calypso.  A surf bar & restaurant at Playa Maria. Come here for their double rum cocktails, mahi mahi tacos, nachos & coconut shrimp. 

Tamboo.  A restaurant on Sandy Beach with Caribbean views, Puerto Rican seafood and tropical cocktails. Try the mahi ceviche, and watermelon tuna tartare with tostones. Order the hibiscus rum cocktail. 

La Rosa Inglesa.  A hotel restaurant perched on the hills overlooking Rincón. Come here for their brunch menu including flights of tropical mimosas, fresh fruit bowls, latin egg dishes and shrimp hollandaise Benedicts. 

The Beach House.  A restaurant, bar, hotel and surf shop with a line up of white chairs overlooking the forested coast behind Dome’s Beach. Come here to enjoy a drink, sunset, the view or all of the above.

Ola Sunset Cafe.  A cliffside restaurant overlooking Dome’s Beach and the Caribbean Sea. Come here to spot migrating whales and watch the sunset while eating empanadas and sipping on large tropical mojitos. 

La Sirena.  A nautical themed restaurant with sushi, seafood dim sum and cocktails served in classic tiki mugs.

Harbor Restaurant.  A popular beachfront seafood restaurant. Order a classic rum cocktail, try the whole fried red snapper and a side of crab tostones. 

La Marketa.  A restaurant and bar in downtown Rincon and the former location of the city’s market. They keep the market alive with tables of craft vendors on Sunday morning. Come to play darts and corn hole while sipping on a medella. We ordered the fish burger with yucca fries and mahi mahi skewers. 

Paletados.  Stop in for ice cold paletas (popsicles) on a hot afternoon. They offer tropical, fruit and dessert flavors with a range of toppings. 

Good to Know: Carry cash. Many businesses are cash or Venmo only.

Aguadilla 

Aguadilla is the entrance to the west side of Puerto Rico. It’s home to the west’s main airport, renowned beaches and daily sunset views.

Crash Boat Beach

Famous across the island for its concrete pier that juts out and branches into the bay. People of all ages line up to jump, dive and cannon ball from it into the calm blue water. On shore, people eagerly await grilled pinchos like skewered shark and buttered shrimp while sipping drinks including ice cold Medalla or piña colada made with Don Q. Vendors rent chairs and umbrellas for $5 a piece and offer tours of the bay on jets skis or inflatable banana boats.

Good to Know.  Recent hurricanes and tropical storms have collapsed parts of the pier. While not what it once was, it’s still a joy to jump from.

Aguadilla Pueblo

In the city center of Aguadilla, people stroll down a concrete promenade while others relax along the golden sand beach. At the same time, fishermen return from sea on small boats with the day’s catch and artists sell items including crocheted beachwear, home made candies and hand painted ceramics. 

Cerro Cabrera.  A colorful hillside community with dozens of painted houses and apartment rentals. 

El Parterre.  A plaza with a natural spring and stream passing through it in the center of the downtown. 

The Promenade 

Along the promenade are several kiosks and restaurants serving coffee, pastries, fried food, the fisherman’s catch, tropical cocktails, frozen paletas and a range of Puerto Rican cuisine. As night falls and the sun sets, locals in cars with souped up speakers and buses with equipped with train horns and lights roll into town for a vibrant night out. 

Mint.  A popular bar along the promenade. We’ve came here for the well made cocktails, plantain chip nachos and giant versions of games like jenga and connect four.

Sal de Mar.  A seafood restaurant across the street from Mint with a rooftop overlooking the ocean. Their menu specializes in dishes like Caribbean lobster, fried mahi mahi bites, ceviche and crab empanadas.

Aguada 

Aguada is city half way between Aguadilla and Rincon. It’s a peaceful place to stay and the perfect location to branch out from. The coastal route is lined with palm trees, painted sculptures, boutique hotels and restaurants. The town center is built around a tree lined plaza, flanked by a cathedral, Puerto Rican homes and narrow streets. 

Beaches & Restaurants 

Pico de Piedra Beach.  A spacious and quiet beach with several nearby restaurants and bars. It’s a tranquil place to relax for the morning or afternoon. Visit Platano Loco, a beach front restaurant where everything on the menu includes plantain. Try the plantain burger with large tostones for buns. 

El Galeón.  A pirate themed seafood restaurant with pirate ship paintings, a port hole bar and a pirate statue. It’s located across the street from the waterfront. 

Guayabos.  A beachfront restaurant on a small cliff with a patio overlooking Aguada Beach. Order dishes tapas style and try the octopus salad, ceviche, shrimp empanada and fried mahi mahi bites. 

Isabella 

Isabella is a town on the northwest corner of Puerto Rico. It’s home to protected beaches, cliffside restaurants & nature trails. It’s located about 30 minutes north of Aguadilla by car. 

Beaches & Restaurants 

Jobos Beach.  A sandy beach in a protected cove shielded from large Atlantic waves by a rocky  peninsula. Its turquoise waters are the perfect place to swim and surf in the remnants of broken waves. Palm trees line the shore, offering sunbathers a shaded reprieve from the tropical sun. Empanada vendors walk the beach while a series of restaurants and bars offer places to eat and drink. Shops and rental kiosks offer beach necessities, surf boards, chairs and umbrellas. 

Montones Beach.   A sandy beach protected by a large rock island. It’s a popular spot to snorkel and lounge onshore, especially for those staying at the beach’s colorful rental cottages.

Pozo De Jacinto.  A cliffside plateau with jagged rock formations and a large seaside cave. Waves crash into the cave, spraying mist into the air during large swells.

Mirador Paseo Tablado.  An elevated boardwalk meandering over steep sand dunes and through a pine forest. Its located between Jobos Beach and Montones Beach. 

Jobos Mojito Beach Bar & Restaurant.  A cliffside restaurant with panoramic views overlooking the Jobos Beach and the Atlantic Ocean. A chalkboard menu above the bar lists over 30 different types of mojitos. We ordered tamarind and passion fruit mojitos along with veggie paella for dinner from a menu including fried seafood, burgers and mofongo. 

La Playa

As the name suggests, La Playa is all about the beach. We stopped here for an afternoon at Balneario Tres Hermanos, a vast sandy and palm lined beach with calm swimmable waters. The beach also doubles as a camp ground for tents and trailers. Sea turtles are known to nest here. La Playa is about 15 minutes south of Rincon by car. 

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Chillo Frito Entero.  A fried red snapper served whole with crispy skin, tender meat and squeezed with lime. It’s usually accompanied by fried plantains like tostones, mofongo or amarillos. 

Mofongo.  Fried plantain mashed with garlic and butter. It’s often served plain or stuffed with an option of seafood. If prepared with bread fruit and yucca, it’s known as trifongo. 

Empanadillas.  Puerto Rican style fried empanadas stuffed with a range of fillings like octopus, conch, cod, shrimp, crap and pizza. 

Pinchos.  Grilled meats served on a stick often served at beaches or roadside kiosks. Our favorites are shark and shrimp. 

Mallorca.  A Puerto Rican pasty often shaped like a bun or swirled roll and dusted in powered sugar. Our favorite preparations are pressed with guava with cheese or egg and cheese. 

Coco Frio.  A cold and freshly opened coconut. Drink the coconut water inside then the sweet meat inside. Alternatively, enjoy it with coconut rum to create a tropical cocktail 

Rum.  Puerto Rico is unarguably the rum capital of the Caribbean with several distilleries and local brands served in bars across the island. Order it on the rocks, in a Pina Colada or other tropical cocktail. 

Medalla.  The island’s most popular local beer, recognizable by it’s small golden can. It has a light slightly nutty flavor and is served everywhere. Buy a 6 pack for the beach!

Getting Around

Fly into Aguadilla.  The airport has several flights per day and two small restaurants, usually open when flights are arriving or departing. Multiple car rental companies have lots nearby the airport.

Rent A Car.  Renting a car is an absolute must to get around anywhere on the west side of Puerto Rico. The entire west side of the island can be driven across in about 2 hours from north to south. We’ve had good experiences renting from Enterprise and Cabrera Car & Truck Rental. 

Places to Stay

Having spent two weeks on the western side of Puerto Rico over the years, we’ve found two go-to places to stay.

Puntas Tree House.  A bright pink house located in the middle of Cento Puntas across from Sandy Beach. The house has two floors of affordable apartment rentals, all decorated in tropical & beachy aesthetic. Book on Airbnb.

Aguada Oceanfront House.  A vacation rental located along the beach in Aguada. It has a spacious and simple interior with nautical decor and a large window with panoramic views of the sea. We fell asleep to the sounds of the waves. Book on Airbnb.

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

Having visited Puerto Rico nearly 20 times, we’ve experienced many places across the island. Though we don’t live here, we consider ourselves non-local experts and one day hope to call this beautiful island our home. Experience Puerto Rican culture in the capital city of San Juan. Explore the colorful and colonial streets of Old San Juan. Head to the southern coast of Caribbean Puerto Rico. Hike the El Yunque Rainforest in Eastern Puerto Rico. See the indigenous Taino sights of Central Puerto Rico. Get off the mainland to visit the islands of Culebra and Vieques.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around the western side of Puerto Rico including: 

More Beach Time.  Visit more beaches along the far southwest side of the island including: Buyé Beach, Parque Nacional Balneario Boquerón and Playa El Combate Beach. 

Isla de Mona.  A remote island halfway between Puerto Rico’s western coast and the Dominican Republic. It’s known at the Galapagos of the Caribbean for its isolation, diverse wildlife, coral reefs, caves, Taino petroglyphs and beach camping. 

Culebra and Vieques

The Puerto Rican Archipelago  

Culebra and Vieques are two islands off Puerto Rico’s eastern coast known for their sleepy vibes, tropical atmosphere, natural landscapes and Caribbean beaches. They’re lesser traveled to and equally as enchanting as other areas of Puerto Rico with unique character of their own.  

Culebra 

Culebra is a tiny island half way between “mainland” Puerto Rico and the US Virgin Islands. Things move a little slower here making it a great place to relax and appreciate life. The island has a small town with great restaurants, is home to multiple nature reserves and a variety of beaches. 

Things to Do

There are many things to do while exploring Culebra, primarily focused on outdoor activities like snorkeling, beach hopping, hiking and watching the sunset. 

Explore Dewey.  Culebra’s only town can be walked from end to end in minutes. Though small, its main road is home to restaurants, cafes, guest houses and the ferry terminal.  

Jump from the Bridge.  Join locals and jump from the Dewey bridge into the canal. Wear water shoes to protect your feet from the mussels and urchins.

Hector the Protector.  Walk along the rock break wall across from the ferry terminal and visit Hector the Protector, a planked wood human figure holding a lantern. 

Watch a Caribbean Sunset.  Many of the western beaches like Tamarindo, Punta Soldado or Carlos Rosario are peaceful places to watch the sunset below the Caribbean.

Visit the Beaches

Culebra has many great beaches all worth visiting for different reasons. There are white sand beaches, rocky beaches, remote beaches and unofficial nude beaches.

Flamenco Beach. Flamenco Beach is beloved for its powdery white sand shore that wraps around a turquoise blue bay. Come here to relax in under the heat of the Caribbean sun or shade of a swaying palm tree. The beach is famed for its graffitied tanks. home to a campground and offering of beach services and amenities. 

Flamenco’s Tanks.  Flamenco Beach is famed for its graffitied tanks. The shoreline surrounding the most iconic tank has been swept away by recent storms. Though still accessible, it’s now a pelican nesting ground. The second tank resides on a small hill nearby. 

Beach Services.  Flamenco Beach has a range of services and amenities making it easy to stay here all day. 

• Fees.  Parking costs $5 per vehicle and $2 per person. 

• Amenities.  Restrooms, showers and lockers are available 24/7. Lockers cost an additional fee to use. Bring your own hand soap for the restrooms. 

• Kiosks.  A series of modern kiosks offer food, beverages, ice cream, beach supplies and souvenirs. Try the traditional Puerto Rican snacks like empanadillas, bacalaitos, alcapurrias and pinchos. Pair them with a boozy tropical cocktail, local beer or fruit juice. 

• Rentals.  Two kiosks offer beach rentals including chairs, umbrellas, snorkel masks, life jackets and floaties.  

• Lifeguards.  Life guards watch over designated swimming areas. 

Flamenco Beach Camping.  Camping at Flamenco Beach is one of the most enjoyable ways to maximize beach time and experience Culebra’s pristine nature. We camped here for a long weekend on our most recent trip to the island. Ten under the stars, fall asleep to the sounds of crashing waves and wake up to the calls of roosters.

• Camping is DIY.  Bring your own gear: tent, sleeping bags, air mattress, hammock, beach chairs, flashlight, etc. 

• Where to Camp.  The official camping area is located after the kiosks and behind the beachfront tree line. It’s an expansive and shaded area with plenty of space to set up undisturbed. 

• Fees & Bookings.  Camping costs $35 per night per tent. Call ahead for a reservation or book at the beachfront ticket office. The office hours are from 8am-5pm. If showing up after hours, return the next day to register and pay. For reservations and information, call (787) 742 0700. 

Culebrita Beach. A crescent shaped beach with a narrow white sand shore and calm aquamarine water. It’s located on the island of Culebrita (Little Culebra) and requires a boat to reach. We sailed here on a catamaran with a group of friends through East Island Excursions. The tour brought us to coral garden off the coast of Culebra to snorkel before mooring off shore from Culebrita Beach. We spent the afternoon diving from the catamaran, dancing to Reggaeton music, swimming between the boat and shore, relaxing on the beach and enjoying an unlimited supply of rum cocktails. 

Playa Resaca.  This beach is as much about the journey as it is the destination. After a rigorous hike, you’ll reach a vast beach that you’ll likely have to yourself the entire day. The only swimmable area is the shallows at the far east end of the beach. Because it’s so remote, it’s the perfect place to get naked ;)

Hiking to Resaca:  

• Follow a paved road up the hill past the airport. There will be a parking lot at the top. Walk through the waist high grass behind the sign to locate the trail. 

• The further you descend, the more rigorous the trail gets. You’ll have to walk over boulders and duck under tree branches. We recommend wearing pants, hiking shoes and bringing a stick to knock away spider webs and thorny plants. 

• The trail ends at a mangrove forest just before the beach. There will be pink and orange ribbons, nautical debris and water bottles strung along the trees guiding you through it. Follow these markers, even if you think you’re on the path, or you will get lost! 

• The final stretch leads through a thicket of beach grape trees ending at a lone palm tree overlooking the beach. From the parking lot, it should take 45min to reach Playa Resaca. Plan to leave the beach at least 1 hour before sunset. 

Playa Zoni.  A white sand beach equally as beautiful as Flamenco. It’s located on the northeast side of the island, easily reachable by car though rarely that busy. Outside of free parking, there are no amenities.

Playa Punta Soldado.  A rocky beach great for finding conch shells. You’ll find a lot of fragments and occasionally a whole shell. Supposedly it’s a good spot to snorkel though we’ve never tried here.

Snorkeling Beaches 

Culebra is beautiful place to snorkel with multiple reefs easily accessible from shore. The beaches along the southwest coast of Culebra are the best on the island for snorkeling.

Reserva Natural Canal Luis Peña.  A canal and  protected nature reserve separating Culebra and Cayo Luis Peña. It’s home to coral reefs, sea grass meadows, an abundance of sea life and views of Caribbean sunsets. 

Playa Tamarindo Grande.  A secluded beach along the Canal Luis Peña, accessible via the Carlos Rosario Nature Trail. Just offshore is a vibrant reef with all types of lively and colorful corals. For the best snorkeling, enter the water near the green beach sign at the center of the beach, swim about 25 feet out, then follow the reef to the left. Water shoes are recommended due to jagged rocks near the shore.

Carlos Rosario Nature Trail.  A nature trail leading from the parking lot of Flamenco Beach to Playa Tamarindo Grande and Playa Carlos Rosario. The hike is relatively easy, leading over a hilltop crest, taking about 20 minutes one way. Along the trail, watch out for skittish lizards, hermit crabs and the occasional gardener snake. 

Good to Know.  Stay on the trail as unexploded munitions from military testing are believed to be in the area. 

Playa Tamarindo.  A beautiful beach with salt and pepper pebbles and a narrow stretch of white sand. This easily accessible spot is popular place for snorkeling. A small and colorful reef home with tropical fish resides just offshore to the far left while a vast meadow seagrass meadow begins about 50 feet out. Sea turtles, eagle rays and reef squids can be seen gliding through these waters.

Playa Melones.  A small and unassuming beach with a rocky shoreline and breathtaking coral reef. Enter the water at the center of the beach then swim out and towards the rocks on the right. Beneath the surface are large formations brimming with colorful corals and tropical fish. Green, purple and yellow corals sway in the currents as fish swim between and lurk within crevices. It’s some of the best snorkeling on Culebra!

Good to Know

• Snorkel Gear.  Bring your own snorkel gear or rent it from Blue Water or Culebra Divers, both located next to the ferry terminal. 

• When to Snorkel.  The sea life is most active before 10am and an hour before sunset. 

• Sunblock.  Wear reef safe sunblock to avoid harming the corals.

• Underwater Camera.  Capturing photos underwater is possible with most smart phones and a specialty case. We used the Pictar Waterproof Smartphone Case available on Amazon. 

Places to Eat and Drink 

For a tiny island, Culebra has a range of great restaurants, cafes and bars, mostly centered around Dewey.

Dinghy Dock.  A popular restaurant overlooking the island’s inner bay, frequented by boaters on inflatable dinghies. Come here for tropical cocktails and fresh caught seafood dishes like grilled Mahi Mahi and Chillo Frito Entero (whole fried red snapper). Feed the scraps to the giant tarpon waiting dockside.  

Mamacita’s.  A lively restaurant and bar located along the narrow canal in the middle of town. It’s a favorite spot of ours to come for boozy cocktails and sharable appetizers like coconut shrimp, mahi mahi bites and tostones. Like Dinghy Dock, come here to feed the tarpon.

La Cocina del Navigante.  An elevated restaurant overlooking the island’s inner bay. Their kitchen specializes in seafood dishes like Caribbean lobster, filets of red snapper, shrimp stuffed mofongo and paella! 

El Batay.  A roadside bar and local hangout located halfway between town and the airport. Come here to play a game of pool, sip on drinks or order one to takeaway.  

Pan Cafe.  A very popular bakery serving pastries, breakfast sandwiches and coffee. Try the Mallorca, a bready Puerto Rican pastry shaped into a swirl and sprinkled with powdered sugar. 

Hotel Kokomo.  The perfect go to for an inexpensive meal or quick lunch, especially while waiting for the ferry. We’ve ordered fish sandwiches and empanadas. 

Black Flamingo Coffee.  Our favorite breakfast spot on the island. Come here for their coffee, homemade sourdough toast and breakfast tacos.

Culebra Coffee.  A coffee shop selling mango and acai bowls, egg dishes and baked goods.

Good to Know:

• Most places accept credit cards however it’s good to have cash. There’s an ATM in town near the ferry terminal.

• Make reservations at places you want to eat. Service ends early and places can book up.

• Be patient, people and businesses move slower here.

Grocery Stores 

There are two grocery stores on the island. Colmado Carniceria Milka, located in town and Colmado Costa del Sol, located next to the airport. Both offer all the basics and necessities of any grocery store. They’re also good spots to buy snacks and drinks for the beach. 

Getting to Culebra 

By Ferry.  Take the Puerto Rico Ferry from Ceiba to Culebra. It’s an efficient and cost effective way of reaching the island. The ferry operates on a strict schedule. You need to buy tickets at least 1 week in advance, especially if traveling on a weekend. It can take anywhere from 1-2 hours depending on the type of boat and sea conditions. 

Getting to Ceiba.  Preschedule an Uber or Lyft. Rides typically cost around $100 one way. The drive from San Juan to Ceiba takes on average 1 hour 30 minutes depending on traffic and time of day. 

By Plane.  Book flights on a puddle jumper through Cape Air. Flights take less than 30 minutes from San Juan. Roundtrip tickets can cost between $200 and $300 per person. Due to cost, we typically opt for the ferry.

Getting Around Culebra

Golf Cart Rentals.  A golf cart is the most efficient way to navigating Culebra on your own. UTV Rental PR offers a range of rugged club cars for $70-$85 per day   

Jeep Rentals.  Having a Jeep is helpful for getting around on your own schedule but can be expensive. We’ve rented from Jerry’s Jeep Rental and Carlos Jeep Rental on past trips for around $150 per day. It’s often more adoptable to rent a golf cart or call a taxi when needed.

Culebra Taxis.  Local drivers provide taxi services around Culebra. The typical ride costs $20 for up to 4 people. Expect to pay in cash or by payment link. Here are some reputable taxi drivers. 

• Angel (787) 455 1892

• Damaris (787) 455 1893

• Abner (787) 237 5313

On Foot.  Though Culebra is a small island, getting around on foot outside of the town is difficult but not impossible. Many people are friendly enough to stop and give you a ride. Carry a flashlight when walking at night. 

Where to Stay 

Having visited Culebra three time, we’ve camped, stayed in Dewey and further away along the bay. 

Mamacita’s Guest House. A hub for activity on Culebra and a lively place to stay in the center of town. The rooms are simple but well equipped for a relaxing stay. Make sure to visit the restaurant and bar for dinner and drinks. Book on Airbnb. 

Oceanfront Villa.  A vacation rental with panoramic views the island’s inner bay. The villa has private suites and shared balcony. It’s located about 20 minutes on foot from Dewey or 5 minutes by car. Book on Airbnb. 

Vieques

Vieques is an island 6 miles off the coast of Puerto Rico. It’s home to a bioluminescent bay, free roaming horses, white and black sand beaches, turquoise swimmable water and marine reserves.  

Faro Puerto Mulas.  A small abandoned lighthouse overlooking Isabella Segunda. 

El Fortín De Conde Mirasol.  A small Spanish fort overlooking the town of Isabel Segunda surround a blue and orange painted museum. 

300 Year Old Ceiba Tree.  A sacred tree known for its age and impressive root structure. It’s located between the airport and Mosquito Pier.  

Mosquito Pier.  A mile long pier on the north side of the island. Come here to spot marine life including manta rays, sea turtles and jelly fish.

Paso Fino Horses.  The island is home to over 2,000 free roaming horses. They are tame and can be found walking the beaches, grazing in fields and along the road sides. Watch out for piles of horse manure. Various company’s offer riding tours along the beaches. 

Vieques National Wildlife Refuge.  A nature reserve that covers more than half the island and includes bays, mangrove forests, salt flats, hiking trails, beaches and coral reefs.

Things to Do 

Explore the Small Towns.  Vieques is home to two small towns on opposite sides of the island.

• Isabel Segunda. The main town on the north side of the island with the ferry terminal, grocery stores, restaurants, hotels and souvenir shops.

• Esperanza.  A beach town on the south side of the island with restaurants, hotels, tour companies and a range of beaches. 

Crab Island Rum Distillery.  Visit the island’s on rum distillery! Crab Island produces 14 month, 3 year and orange flavored rums. Most bars and restaurants on the island serve their rum. Go to Bili for a Rum Island Iced tea made from all three! 

Go Stargazing.  Given the remote location and lack of city lights, the sky is often dark for brilliant stargazing. Download the free Sky Tonight app to identify constellations, planets and distant stars.

Kayak in the Bioluminescent Bay (Mosquito Bay).  Recognized as the brightest bioluminescent bay in the world. We came here to kayak at night to experience the bioluminescence. Immediately after paddling away in our kayak, the water began to sparkle around us, our paddle illuminated vibrant streaks of bioluminescence and swimming fish left a glowing trail behind them. It was truly an unreal experience that felt like the Manta Ray in Moana or a patronus charm in Harry Potter. Book with Abe’s Snorkeling and Bio Bay Tours. They offer snorkeling tours across the island and kayaking tours in the bio bay and mangrove channels. 

Beach Hopping 

Rent a car and spend time beach hopping across the island. Vieques is home to numerous beaches ranging in size, swimmability and accessibility. The most popular and swimmable beaches are on the south side of the island. The most remote are located in the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge.

Bastimento Beach.  A long meandering beach with turquoise water, a sandy shore, coral reefs, a protected tide pool and snorkeling on the north side of the island.

El Gallito (Gringo Beach).  A roadside beach with a sandy shore, short palm trees and views looking towards the mainland of Puerto Rico and Culebra. 

Playa Negra.  A semi remote cliff side black sand beach. There is a small parking lot nearby Playa Negra Fine Foods. Follow a trail to get here (technically a stream) and walk for 15 minutes until reaching the beach. It’s not the safest for swimming due to rocks and currents. It’s located on the south side just west of Esperanza. 

Playa Caracas (The Red Beach).  A beach with white sand, palm trees, turquoise water and shard gazebos. It’s located in the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge.

Esperanza Beach.  A popular beach nearby town on the south side of the island with kiosks, restaurants, bars and kayak rentals.

Sea Glass Beach.  A small beach to collect handfuls of sea glass within minutes of beach combing. It’s located in the town of Isabel Segunda. 

Playa Pata Prieta (Secret Beach).  A secluded beach popular for swimming and snorkeling. It’s a 10 min drive east of Playa Caracas. 

Playa Chiva (Blue Beach).  A long powder white sand beach with calm with turquoise and navy blue water. Come here to swim and snorkel. It’s a 5 min drive east of Playa Pata Prieta. 

Escondida Beach.  A small beach with some snorkeling. It can frequently be covered in sea weed. Located a 15min walk east of Playa Chiva. 

Playa Plata.  A semi private white sand beach with crystal clear turquoise water for swimming and snorkeling. Located a 5min drive east of Playa Chiva. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Saint Voodoos Mar Azul.  A waterfront bar with a deck overlooking the Caribbean. Come here for cocktails and lite bites at sunset. 

Lazy Jacks.  A restaurant and bar near Esperanza beach for tacos, sandwiches, salads, beers and cocktails. 

Lydia’s Bakery.  A bakery with breads, sandwiches, pastry’s and coffee. 

Bili.  A restaurant with an impressive seafood menu including Caribbean lobsters, grilled mahi mahi and octopus. Come here for their Crab Island Long Island. 

Vieques Food Park.  A food truck park with several restaurants. We came to Rincon Cafe for breakfast and coffee. 

Bar La Nasa.  A beach front bar with cocktails, beer and music. 

Family Market Centró Ahorras.  A grocery store located in Isabella Seguda. Come here to stock up on water, beers and snacks before heading to the beach. 

Getting to Vieques 

By Air.  We booked a one way flight with Cape Air, from San Juan to Vieques. It’s a quick 20 min flight over the El Yunque rainforest and scenic way to travel. They offer multiple flights daily for around $100 one way. 

By Sea.  We booked our return trip on the Puerto Rico Ferry, from Vieques to Ceiba. From Ceiba we took an Uber to San Juan. One way ferry tickets cost $2 and the Uber costs around $100. 

Getting Around Vieques

By Car.  Vieques is a large island. The best way to get around, see all of the sights and explore is by renting a car. We booked with Maritza’s Car Rental for about $110 per day with insurance. 

By Taxi.  Taxis were readily available across the Island bringing people between Isabella Segunda, Escondida, the airport and accessible beaches. 

Where to Stay

Tropical Guest House. A beautifully decorated home in Isabella Segunda with a comfy bed, kitchenette, outdoor grill, beech chairs, umbrellas and snorkel equipment. Book here on Airbnb. 

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico 

Having visited Puerto Rico nearly 20 times, we’ve experienced many places across the island. Though we don’t live here, we consider ourselves non-local experts and one day hope to call this beautiful island our home. Experience Puerto Rican culture in the capital city of San Juan. Explore the colorful and colonial streets of Old San Juan. Head to the southern coast of Caribbean Puerto Rico. Hike the El Yunque Rainforest in Eastern Puerto Rico. Visit the surf towns along Western Puerto Rico. See the indigenous Taino sights of Central Puerto Rico. 

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips to Vieques including: 

Mt. Pirata Observation Post.  Hike to tropical summit of the tallest point on Vieques measuring nearly 1,000 feet above sea level. 

Horseback Riding on Vieques.  We have our eyes set on a beach sunset horseback riding tour. 

Old San Juan, Puerto Rico

Bienvenidos al Viejo San Juan

Old San Juan is an enchanting, romantic, vibrant and historic neighborhood of San Juan, Puerto Rico. The old town is lined with cobble stone streets, colorful colonial architecture, world famous cocktail bars, restaurants serving Caribbean cuisine and music playing during all hours of the day. It is rich in history, flanked by two fortresses and surrounded by a stone wall overlooking the North Atlantic. 

A Second Home

Puerto Rico has become a second home to us. From quick weekend getaways to month long trips, we’ve spent time exploring the island and immersing ourselves in so much of what it has to offer from the nature, cuisine and culture. This guide focuses on our time visiting and staying in Old San Juan. 

Neighborhoods & Streets

Calle San Sebastián.  A cobblestone street is lined with colorful and vibrant colonial architecture. It’s known for its bustling nightlife scene, famed cocktail bars and lgbtq+ friendly atmosphere. 

Calle San Francisco.  This street runs central through Old San Juan and is a good place to start exploring. There are plenty of restaurants, bars, cafes, shops, hotels, plazas and residences here.

Calle de la Luna.  Though all streets in Old San Juan are flanked with beautiful architecture, this one is one of our favorites to walk down. There are many colorful buildings, colonial balconies, unique door knockers and abandoned buildings that have been retaken by nature. 

Plaza das Armas.  Old San Juan’s historic town square with performers, a fountain, statues and pigeons. It’s a favorite spot of ours to grab a coffee and mallorca from the green gazebo in the northwest corner. 

Caleta de San Juan.  A romantic tree covered street lined with colorful colonial buildings, hole in the wall restaurants and wine bars. The cobblestone street leads uphill from the Puerta de San Juan to the historic Basilica of San Juan. 

La Perla.  A colorful seaside neighborhood located between the north wall of Old San Juan and the Atlantic Coast. Over the past years, the community in La Perla has turned their neighborhood into a destination filled with rustic bars, local hangouts and art. 

Sights & Museums 

Castillo de San Cristóbal.  This is one of the largest colonial military fortress in the Caribbean and marks the entrance to Old San Juan. You can easily spend a half day here exploring the barracks, fortress walls, guard towers and grounds. One of the fort’s hidden gems is a surviving drawing of Spanish ships drawn on the wall of a former prison cell deep with in the tunnels. 

Castillo San Felipe del Morro (El Morro).  This is the oldest colonial fortress in the Caribbean and a great place to learn about the history and strategic importance of Old San Juan. Similar to San Cristobal, you can spend an afternoon here exploring the different levels and sections. The fort is perched on the NW side of the old town. It’s accessible after crossing a large lawn known for flying Chiringas or kites and food carts selling tropical flavored snow cones called Piraguas. 

Pro Tip.  The receipt from one fort gets you access to the other on the same day you visit.

Paseo del Morro.  A romantic seaside promenade that follows the old town’s wall. It is a beautiful place to walk, watch the sunset and look out towards the sea. We we’re incredibly lucky to see the Green Flash from here. It passes La Puerta de San Juan, the original entrance to the walled city and connects Paseo de la Princesa to the Maria Magdelana Cemetery. 

La Casa Estrecha.  A narrow house, measuring about 5 feet wide, with a vibrant yellow facade. Adorned with the Puerto Rican flag, the building is an iconic symbol of Old San Juan.  

Calle Fortaleza. A street is filled with souvenir shops, restaurants and jewelry stores, ending at the Governor’s Mansion, La Forteleza. The end of the street is often decorated in an ever changing canopy of umbrellas, banners, flowers or lights. 

Paseo de la Princesa.  A palm lined seaside promenade along the south wall. There is a nightly market with salsa dancing, food trucks offering up fried foods and sweets, gazebos selling cocktails, and tented vendors selling homemade crafts.

Plaza del Quinto Centenario.  A plaza commemorating the 500 years since Columbus first voyaged to Puerto Rico. At its center is a tall totem made from fragments of clay pottery representing the violent first meeting between the indigenous Taino and European colonists. 

La Puerta de la Bandera.  A black and white painting of the Puerto Rican flag on the wooden door of a crumbling brick building. It symbolizes Puerto Rican resistance against injustice.

Parque San Francisco.  A small and hidden park nestled between the crumbling brick and plaster walls of the surrounding colonial buildings. The park offers a quiet place to relax and take a break while exploring the old town. 

Callejón de la Puerta con la Bandera. A large doorway at the end of a blue cobblestone alley with a vivid painting of the Puerto Rican flag. It’s a very popular photo spot for both tourists and locals. Recently an artist added a colorful mural of Puerto Rican artists Bad Bunny and Elizam Escobar to the adjacent door.

Maria Magdelana Cemetery.  A beautiful seaside cemetery with above ground tombs, a large mausoleum and monuments dedicated to the dead. Its location between La Perla and El Morro along the coast is strategic to carry the deceased souls across the ocean into the afterlife. 

Museo de las Americas.  This museum focuses on pre-colonial and modern art and artifacts, the colonization of Puerto Rico and the island’s African heritage.

Capilla del Cristo.  A small chapel built on the cliffside edge of the old town’s wall. It is dedicated to health and well being, commemorating the story of a man who plunged off the cliff while horse racing but survived. 

Things to Do

Hire a Photographer.  Hire a photographer to take photos of you around the old town during the morning or evening golden hours. We booked with Raul at Rolo Photo PR and couldn’t have been happier with the outcome! 

Fly a Chiringa. The ocean breezes from the lawn in front of El Morro make it a great location and fun Sunday afternoon pastime. Kites can be bought from street vendors adjacent to the lawn. 

Visit the Farmers Market.  Located in front of the San Juan Museum every Saturday morning. It’s a great spot to purchase local produce, fresh baked breads and flowers.

Sunset Harbor Boat Ride.  A sunset cruise on a large pontoon style boat around the harbor of Old San Juan with historical info, snacks, rum punch and music. Book Here!

Vamos al la Playa

Playa Peña.  A secluded beach in Old San Juan, located on the other side of Castillo de San Cristobal. It’s a cute sand and rock beach below the cliff in front of the capital. The water isn’t safe for swimming. 

Playa El Escambrón.  A sandy palm covered beach between Old San Juan and Condado. It’s a popular beach for swimming, snorkeling, grilling and sunbathing. The best place to snorkel is the protected cove next to the Caribe Hilton. Come here in the morning to spot sea turtles feeding in the seagrass and tropical fish swimming among the underwater sculpture garden. There’s also the ruins of a small fort, Fortín del Escambrón, nearby. 

Places to Shop

Spicy Caribe. A spice store with hot sauces, spices and vanilla made from locally grown ingredients. 

El Mundo Taino.  A souvenir shop with locally made home goods, artwork, jewelry and coffee. 

Hatian Gallery.  A shop specializing in handmade artwork, sculptures and jewelry from Puerto Rico and other Caribbean islands. 

Materia Prima.  An organic grocery store with local farmed Puerto Rican produce, provisions and meats. It has a coffee bar and is connected to a wine bar in the Hotel Convento. 

U Go Market. A grocery store with produce, snacks, beverages, alcohol, beach-ware and sunblock. 

John Napoli.  A kitchen supply store with a range of cookware and kitchen gadgets including Puerto Rican pilóns, calderos and large paella pans.

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Chillo Frito Entero. A fried red snapper served whole with crispy skin, tender meat and squeezed with lime. It’s usually accompanied by fried plantains like tostones, mofongo or amarillos. 

Mofongo. Fried plantain mashed with garlic and butter. It’s often served plain or stuffed with an option of seafood. If prepared with bread fruit and yucca, it’s known as trifongo. 

Empanadillas. Puerto Rican style fried empanadas stuffed with a range of fillings like octopus, conch, cod, shrimp, crap and pizza. 

Pinchos. Grilled meats served on a stick often served at beaches or roadside kiosks. Our favorites are shark and shrimp. 

Mallorca. A Puerto Rican pasty often shaped like a bun or swirled roll and dusted in powered sugar. Our favorite preparations are pressed with guava with cheese or egg and cheese. 

Coco Frio. A cold and freshly opened coconut. Drink the coconut water inside then the sweet meat inside. Alternatively, enjoy it with coconut rum to create a tropical cocktail 

Rum. Puerto Rico is unarguably the rum capital of the Caribbean with several distilleries and local brands served in bars across the island. Order it on the rocks, in a Pina Colada or other tropical cocktail. 

Medalla. The island’s most popular local beer, recognizable by it’s small golden can. It has a light slightly nutty flavor and is served everywhere. Buy a 6 pack for the beach! 

The Food Scene 

A huge part of the culture in Puerto Rico involves eating, drinking and getting together with others. With that in mind, there are so many great places to eat and drink. Having visited Old San Juan several times, we’ve been able to try out numerous restaurants, cafes and bars. 

Pro Tip. It’s best to make a reservation whenever dining out in Old San Juan. 

Restaurants 

La Garita.  A restaurant and bar serving Puerto Rican dishes and rum cocktails with a view overlooking La Perla. Ask for a Pina Colada made with a double shot of Don Q, Puerto Rico’s most popular rum. 

El Jibarito.  Another restaurant serving Puerto Rican dishes. Come here for the whole fried fish and mofongo. 

La Madre.  A Mexican restaurant with delicious tacos. Eat outside on the pedestrian tree-lined street. 

Cayo Caribe.  A small local chain of restaurants serving Caribbean seafood. Try the Salmorejo (stewed land crab and tomatos). 

Genisis.  A late night restaurant with a fusion of Caribbean and Spanish cuisine. We had paella and sangria. 

Ladis.  A famous seaside restaurant built into the cliff between OSJ and Condado. Come here for seafood, cocktails and ocean views.

Señor Paleta.  A popular spot to buy fruit and dessert popsicles mid-day or after dinner.

Puerto Criollo. A Puerto Rican restaurant with classics like fried snapper, stuffed mofongo and octopus salad. They also service inventive tropical cocktails in unique glasses.

Al Fresco Rooftop Wine & Tapas.  A quiet place with a rooftop patio in the middle of Old San Juan. Come here for lite bites and wine. We shared a cheese board and bottle of bubbly. 

Otras Cosas.  A large outdoor restaurant to come for lunch, dinner and live music. Try the whole Caribbean lobster and coconut filled with coconut rum. 

Mar y Rosa.  A newly opened rooftop restaurant with el fresco dining and an elevated menu. Come here for the panoramic views at sunset, tasty cocktails and seafood menu with Korean & Caribbean influences. 

El Champi.  A tapas restaurant offering Spanish style small plates, paella and charcuterie. It’s located on Caleta de San Juan, a romantic tree covered street.  It’s adjoined by El Rincón del Vino, a small wine bar with a broad selection of wines all nestled within a small interior courtyard. 

Atelier Rooftop Terrace.  A rooftop bar and restaurant at the Hotel Palacio Provincial. It offers sunset views and overlooks the neighboring basilica.  

Cafes & Coffee Shops 

Cuarto Estaciones.  A green gazebo located in the Plaza de Armas serving coffee and pastries. We often come here for our first breakfast while in town, sitting under the shaded patio, surrounded by potted plants and chirping birds. Our usual order consists of iced lattes with canela and Mallorca with guava and cheese. They’re cash only. 

La Carreta.  Come here for the variety of sweet and savory breakfast dishes. Try an egg sandwich on Mallorca and a mimosa made from freshly squeezed OJ. 

Caficultura.  A good spot for breakfast and coffee, have the Mallorca con Guayaba (guava).

St Germain Bistro & Cafe.  A vegetarian friendly brunch spot with pancakes, toasts, sandwiches and burgers. 

Mallorca. A bakery specializing in its namesake, Mallorca. It’s unmistakable by its sign spelling out Mallorca in large red letters.

787 Coffee.  A coffee shop brewing Puerto Rican grown and roasted coffee beans. We discovered them on the East Village of NYC and visited their location near Escambron Beach while in Old San Juan.  

Pilao Bakery-Cafe.  Bakery with large portion breakfasts and coffee. 

Bien Papaya.  A coffee shop with Mallorca, smoothies and smoothie bowls right by San Cristobal. 

Don Ruiz.  A cafe in the Museo de las Americas with fresh roasted coffee and bottled beer.

C.B Restaurant.  A breakfast and brunch spot in plaza colon. Try the Boricua Morning Mallorca. 

Cocktail Bars & Nightlife 

La Factoria.  A famous cocktail bar in a dimly lit old world interior, connected to multiple other bars. One of our favorite drinks to order here is the Peligroso, made with Ron de Barillito, Campari, spices and lime. 

La Cubanita.  Connected to La Factoria, this bar is offers equally as good and unique cocktails. Our favorite section is the hidden bar up the stairs and though a door to the right. 

El Desvio.  A candle lit cocktail bar hidden within the passageways of La Factoria 

El Batey.  A late night dive bar with graffitied walls, a pool table and lights covered in notes, cash and napkins left behind from past visitors.

La Casita.  A pink house and outdoor cocktail bar serving rum and tiki drinks overlooking the bay. It’s a nice escape from the busy streets or to end the night.

Colmado Cocteleria Tropical.  A bar on Calle de San Sebastián designed like a traditional Puerto Rican colmado (a local convenience store) with shelves of faux and vintage groceries and plantain decor. Sip on a cocktail while playing dominos or taking pictures in the photo booth. 

La Grieta.  A dimly lit cocktail bar specializing in mezcal and mezcal cocktails. There is limited seating inside however the bar spills out onto the cobblestone street with small tables and sofas.

La Sombrilla Rosa.  A popular gay bar on Calle San Sebastián. Bartenders serve in inexpensive drinks while Reggaeton music echos out onto the street. 

Barrachina.  The location where the Piña Colada was invented. Come here for the classic cocktail and stay for lunch or dinner in their courtyard. 

Cannon Club.  A dueling piano bar with live parrots, multiple levels and eclectic decor. This place is more about the drinks and unique atmosphere than the food.

La Verguenza.  This multi-level bar overlooks La Perla is the center of nightlife in OSJ. The nightly party spills out into the streets and continues early into the morning. 

Scryer Rum Barrelhouse & Rooftop.  A small batch rum distillery and cocktail bar in Old San Juan with a wall of barreled rum. We drank cocktails here made exclusively from their house distilled rum under candle light during a city wide black out. 

Cafe Darsenas.  A blue gazebo on the Paseo de la Princesa with affordable drinks and light bites. We often come here for a frozen sangria to-go. 

El Vino Crudo.  A hidden wine bar tucked away on Callejón Gambaro. They pour natural wines and serve Spanish tapas late into the night.

Places to Stay 

We’ve stayed at a range of places in Old San Juan including apartments overlooking the ocean, a private room in a rum baron’s mansion, a ruin style apartment and a boutique hotel. 

Casa Luna.  A boutique hotel with range of apartment rentals and a rooftop terrace. It’s located in the middle of Old San Juan on Calle de la Luna. Book Here!

Cozy Historic Ruin Apartment.  A small apartment built within the ruins of a crumbling building.The space has character and charm that exemplifies the old town. Book Here!

PH Apt in Old San Juan w/ Terrace.  A comfortable and spacious apartment with a large private terrace overlooking the old town’s cobblestone streets and colorful buildings. Book Here!

Live Like a Rum Baron in a 200 Year Old Mansion.  An elevated apartment with private rooms and cozy communal spaces in a renovated colonial building. Book Here!

Getting Around

On Foot.  Old San Juan is very walkable and by far the best way to see the city. Be careful of the narrow sidewalks and cobble stones. 

By Uber.  Use Uber to get to/from Old San Juan from the airport or San Juan proper. Ubers are typically inexpensive. The best place for pick up and drop off is Plaza Colon at the entrance of the old town. 

Free Shuttle.  There is a free “shuttle” aka a large golf cart the shuttles people a loop in the old town.

By Car / Parking.  Traffic gets congested in and around Old San Juan. The best place to park in Old San Juan is Dona Fella, garage on the south side of the Old Town. Parking typically costs $1 per hour.

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

Having visited Puerto Rico nearly 20 times, we’ve experienced many places across the island. Though we don’t live here, we consider ourselves non-local experts and one day hope to call this beautiful island our home. Experience Puerto Rican culture in the capital city of San Juan. Head to the southern coast of Caribbean Puerto Rico. Hike the El Yunque Rainforest in Eastern Puerto Rico. Visit the surf towns along Western Puerto Rico. See the indigenous Taino sights of Central Puerto Rico. Get off the mainland to visit the islands of Culebra and Vieques.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around Old San Juan including: 

San Sebastian Festival.  A massive festival and street party held throughout Old San Juan in January to mark the end of the holidays with performers, a parade, street food, music and dancing. 

Tomb of Juan Ponce de León.  The tomb of the decisive conquistador credited with founding San Juan. His tomb is located inside of the Catedral Basilica Menor de San Juan Bautista

Casa Blanca.  A 500 year old house in Old San Juan built for Ponce de Leon. It was converted into a museum with Spanish colonial artifacts.

San Juan, Puerto Rico

San Juan, Puerto Rico

San Juan is a tropical metropolis that’s equal parts city and beach with skyscrapers and homes lining the Atlantic coast. Come here to spend leisurely afternoons on a sandy shore, under an umbrella or at a beach club. Explore the city’s cultural side at art museums, graffitied streets, historic sights and rum distilleries. Celebrate life like a Puerto Rican with Reggaeton music, salsa dancing, traditional dishes, tropical drinks or a local beer. 

Neighborhoods & Streets

Condado.  A seaside neighborhood with skyscrapers, hotels, restaurants, bars and beaches.

Miramar.  A residential neighborhood with historic homes and buildings built in The Spanish Colonial Revival style. It’s central to Old San Juan and Condado. 

Santurce.  A large area of San Juan home to art museums, food truck parks and the nightlife hubs of Calle Cerra and La Placita. 

Ocean Park.  A trendy yet local neighborhood popular for its beach and variety of restaurants and nightlife. 

Calle Loíza.  Ocean Park’s main street for brunch spots, open air restaurants, cocktails bars, surf shops and Loíza Brinca, a famous corner building featuring the Puerto Rican flag.

Cataño.  A neighborhood a quick ferry ride across the harbor from Old San Juan with a waterfront boardwalk home to several restaurants and bars. The ferry operates from the cruise docks hourly throughout most of the day for just a couple of dollars. It’s a popular place to visit for the Bacardi Factory from. 

Piñones.  A food hub known for Puerto Rican and Caribbean cuisine just outside of San Juan. The main street, located along the Atlantic coast, is lined with dozens of restaurant, bars and kiosks. We hopped from place to place and ordered crab empanadillas, cod alcapurrias, coco frio and rum punch. 

Vamos a la Playa

Atlantic Beach.  A sandy beach great for swimming nearby the hotels in Condado. There are no public amenities (restrooms or showers) though vendors rent umbrellas and chairs for negotiable prices. There is frequently a gay section in front of The Tryst Hotel. 

Playita del Condado.  A beach located next to the Puente dos Hermanos between the Condado Lagoon and the Atlantic Ocean. The water is calm enough for swimming and snorkeling with chair rentals for lounging on the beach.

Ocean Park Beach.  This vast beach is probably the most popular in San Juan. Everyone from locals, tourists, families and couples come here. There are plenty of restaurants, marine sports and activities, chair and umbrella rentals and vendors selling drinks on the beach.

Numero Uno Beach Hotel & Restaurant.  A beach club located at Ocean Park Beach. Come here for a relaxing day under the shade of an umbrella or palm tree while watching kite surfers ride the wind and waves. Order the beach vibes package, it includes two chairs, an umbrella, bottle of bubbly and bag of chips and salsa.

Isla Verde Beach.  A large crescent shaped white sand beach with calm turquoise water, palm trees, beach rentals and hotels.  

Pine Grove Beach.  A beach between Island Verde and Ocean Park Beaches. It’s popular for beginner surfing with surf schools and rentals.  

Sights & Museums 

Fortín San Jerónimo de Boquerón.  A small fort at the mouth of the Condado Lagoon. The visiting hours are infrequent due to repairs post Hurricane Maria. It’s worth visiting if open. 

Puente Dos Hermanos.  The bridge crossing the Condado Lagoon connecting to Old San Juan. It’s beautiful to walk across with great views. There is also a ledge making it easy to jump from into the lagoon. The Condado side has a small sandy beach, Playita del Condado. 

Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico.  A well curated and diverse collection of Puerto Rican art and history. After touring the galleries, walk through the sculpture garden. 

Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Puerto Rico (MAC).  A contemporary art museum with rotating galleries specific to social movements, local artists and Puerto Rican heritage. 

Things to Do

Visit a Rum Distillery.  The two distilleries to visit are the Bacardi Factory or Ron del Barrilito. Both offer similar experiences. Bacardi is large scale production while Ron de Barrilito is small batch and higher end. Arrive to a welcome drink, learn about the history of each distillery, their processes of rum making and afterwards take a mixology class, sample aged vintages or simply order cocktails from the bar. Either way, expect to leave tipsy.  

SUP or Kayak in Laguna de Condado.  Tour companies based around the lagoon offer SUP and Kayak rentals for $20/hour. The lagoon is a boat free place to spot eagle rays, star fish and sea turtles. We booked though VIP Adventures Puerto Rico.

Dance Salsa.  We’ve taken two salsa lessons, learning the history and basics from our instructor, Angelina, while sipping on rum punch. Afterwards, we headed to a salsa bar in La Placita for dancing and drinking. Book Here!

Calle Cerra

Calle Cerra is a gritty street with large murals and graffiti covered walls. The surrounding neighborhood is home to many hostels, restaurants, cafes & bars. The area becomes a center for nightlife on weekends. Hundreds of people gather at in the street and at bars as live music and reggaeton echos throughout the neighborhood. Some of our favorite spots are:

Esquina El Watusi.  This bar is the heart of the nightlife scene in Santurce. Come here to join hundreds of people gathered in the street out front and ordering from the bar. Drinks are strong and inexpensive. 

Machete.  A bustling yet vibey cocktail bar with well priced drinks and a menu of flavorful bites. To drink, try the Vampiro for something smokey or House Daq for something fruity. To eat, order the ceviche and pulpo + fries! 

Botánico.  A spacious cocktail bar with an interior patio decorated in florals. Come here for an escape from the high energy atmosphere of other bars along Calle Cerra. Try the Flora or Mezcal Botanical. 

Pro Tip.  Wear pants and shoes to avoid being turned away at bars.

La Placita

La Placita is a cultural hub. It is a place to buy local produce during the morning, where elderly locals gather during the day and an energetic place to meet people, drink late into the evening and dance Salsa. The plaza is surrounded by lively restaurants and bars.

The Produce Market.  Located inside the Plaza de Mercado in the center of the plaza. We used a machete to cut plantains from the bunch, picked out limes to make our own cocktails and selected a ripe papaya for lunch. 

La Tasca del Pescador.  The place to go for seafood. In the heart of La Perla. We ordered the snapper, squid Ink rice & grilled prawns.

Asere Cubano Kitchen and Bar.  A fusion of Cuban and Puerto Rican cuisine with a roof top bar overlooking the plaza. 

La Alcapurria Quemá.  A restaurant and bar specializing in the famed Puerto Rican street food, alcapurria. We ordered a variety including ncluding crab, cod and vegetarian. 

Jungle Bird.  A cocktail bar serving tiki and tropical island drinks.

Taberna Los Vázquez.  An energetic salsa bar with live music and cheap drinks. 

Boronía en la Placita.  A restaurant serving Creole cuisine like mofongo, gumbo and seafood.

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Chillo Frito Entero.  A fried red snapper served whole with crispy skin, tender meat and squeezed with lime. It’s usually accompanied by fried plantains like tostones, mofongo or amarillos. 

Mofongo.  Fried plantain mashed with garlic and butter. It’s often served plain or stuffed with an option of seafood. If prepared with bread fruit and yucca, it’s known as trifongo.

Empanadillas.  Puerto Rican style fried empanadas stuffed with a range of fillings like octopus, conch, cod, shrimp, crap and pizza. 

Pinchos.  Grilled meats served on a stick often served at beaches or roadside kiosks. Our favorites are shark and shrimp. 

Mallorca.  A Puerto Rican pasty often shaped like a bun or swirled roll and dusted in powered sugar. Our favorite preparations are pressed with guava with cheese or egg and cheese. 

Coco Frio.  A cold and freshly opened coconut. Drink the coconut water inside then the sweet meat inside. Alternatively, enjoy it with coconut rum to create a tropical cocktail.

Rum.  Puerto Rico is unarguably the rum capital of the Caribbean with several distilleries and local brands served in bars across the island. Order it on the rocks, in a Pina Colada or other tropical cocktail. 

Medalla.  The island’s most popular local beer, recognizable by it’s small golden can. It has a light slightly nutty flavor and is served everywhere. Buy a 6 pack for the beach!

Places to Eat & Drink

From beachfront restaurants to food truck parks and cocktail bars, there is no shortage of great places to stop for a meal or drink in San Juan. Some of our favorites are: 

Cafes & Coffee Shops

Wicked Lily.  A beach front bar and restaurant at The Tryst Hotel. Come here for brunch, rent a pink umbrella and join the other gays soaking up the sun. 

Café Comunión.  A coffee shop and breakfast spot. Come for the coffee, open faced sandwiches and fresh sugar glazed donuts

Tostado.  A coffee shop breakfast spot. Come for the coffee, tropical fruit, French toast and egg dishes.

Musa.  A funky brunch spot with egg dishes, French toast and mimosas 

La Coffeetera.  A breakfast spot with dishes like pancakes and egg scrambles. Order the eggs Benedict on a Hawaiian roll or the stuffed avocado. 

Restaurants

La Cueva Del Mar.  A Puerto Rican seafood restaurant with a range of dishes like whole fried red snapper, ceviche, creole style shrimp, fish filets and fried plantains. 

Bottega.  We came for the inventive cocktails and music. We had the Safe Flight, Ritmo Tropica, El In-Muerto and shared the octopus salad. Lucha Libre DJ really added to the vibes of the night.

Casita de Miramar.  A romantic restaurant serving elevated Puerto Rican cuisine. We dined here one evening on their outdoor porch. For our meal, we enjoyed plantain soup, mini bacalaitos, arroz de montosteo cooked with house made pique, a whole fried red snapper, and for dessert, tres leches made with coquito.

Paulina Escanes Gormandize.  We’ve dined here twice, for bunch and dinner, tasting a range of items across the menu including mallorca with egg, cheese and avocado, corn bread soufflé, tacos and Tiradito (Peruvian sashimi) on a tostada. 

Container Bar.  One of several waterfront restaurants and bars in Cataño nearby the ferry terminal. Try the crab salad arepas and enjoy a medalla. 

Food Truck Parks.  Quite popular across Puerto Rico, three go-tos in San Juan are Tresbé, Lote 23, and Miramar Food Truck Park.

La Marqueta.  An open air food hall with ocean views and palm trees. It’s a great spot to grab a bite or drink after visiting the lagoon or beach. 

Cocktail Bars & Nightlife 

Pinaloca.  A walk-up window in Condado serving Pina coladas in pineapples. 

Oasis.  A gay bar and tapas restaurant near Condado beach with late night music and dancing 

El Bar Bero.  A barbershop themed bar with barber chairs, mustache art and smokey cocktails.

Kane Rum Bar.  A tiki bar in Condado with lux tropical vibes, cocktails and bites. Order a classic tiki drink like the Zombie, Mai Tai or Painkiller along side light bites like a vegan Hawaiian pizza, tropical ceviche or sesame seared tuna.

Places to Stay 

We’ve stayed at a range of places in San Juan including airbnbs like a private room at a hostel and an apartment style inn. 

Casa Santurce Hostel.  A hostel with dorm and private rooms in San Juan’s arts district. It offers affordable rates and near nightly activities. Book Here!

Casa del Caribe Inn.  A small family run hotel in the heart of Condado. It’s large apartment style rooms are perfect for a weekend getaway. Book Here!

Cool Tripper’s Inn.  A boutique hotel near Ocean Park Beach with tiny yet well designed apartments. Book Here!

Getting Around 

On Foot.  Old San Juan is best explored on foot! You can walk straight from end to end in less than 20 minutes. Spend time walking though the streets, admiring the architecture, discovering bars, dancing in the plazas and finding neighborhood gems.

By Shuttle.  There is a free shuttle or multi row golf cart that weaves through the streets southern streets of Old San Juan and along the perimeter towards El Morro. 

On Scooter.  There are rental scooters available around the streets of San Juan. Download the Bird app and scan the scooter’s QR code to ride. 

By Uber.  Ubers are the best way to get to and from the airport and throughout San Juan.

By Car / Parking.  Rent a car if you plan on exploring outside of San Juan. Though expensive, it’s still the most affordable way to get around.

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

Having visited Puerto Rico nearly 20 times, we’ve experienced many places across the island. Though we don’t live here, we consider ourselves non-local experts and one day hope to call this beautiful island our home. Explore the colorful and colonial streets of Old San Juan. Head to the southern coast of Caribbean Puerto Rico. Hike the El Yunque Rainforest in Eastern Puerto Rico. Visit the surf towns along Western Puerto Rico. See the indigenous Taino sights of Central Puerto Rico. Get off the mainland to visit the islands of Culebra and Vieques.

The Mayan Jungle

The Mayan Jungle

Deep within the lush jungles of Belize and Guatemala are some of the Mayan civilizations most sacred sights. Ancient acropolises reside at the center of lost cities while overgrown ruins and towering pyramids rise from the dense jungle canopy. Sacred caves and their vast chambers entomb sacrificial remains and historic artifacts. Remote towns offer places to taste local cuisine, meet over travelers and reenergize in nature. 

Caracol Mayan Ruins 

Caracol is an ancient Mayan city within the Belizean jungle. It’s ruins and acropolises are comprised of pyramids, ball courts, astronomic observatories, royal tombs, reservoirs and hieroglyphs. 

The Sky Palace.  A three tiered pyramid named Caana, which translates to “Sky Palace.” It has remained the tallest built structure in Belize for over 3,000 years! We climbed steep stone steps to its upper level, explored its rooms, crawled into a royal tomb and looked across Belize and into Guatemala from above the jungle canopy. 

Astronomical Acropolis.  Astronomy was one of the cornerstones of the Mayan Civilization. They built structures to track the solstices, study the stars and connect to their gods. The astronomical acropolis at Caracol is one of the most significant to be discovered. It’s flanked by temples, pyramids and a ball court. 

Wildlife Spotting.  The remoteness of the archeological park emphasizes the ancient and abandoned nature of the site. As we explored, we heard the billowing grunts of howler monkeys and spotted the reclusive Quetzal, Guatemala’s national bird. 

Caracol Tour.  We visited Caracol on a small group tour from San Ignacio, traveling about two hours along back roads through dense jungle to reach the ruins. The tout included a local lunch of rice & beans, fried plantains, spiced & stewed tofu and drank rum punch. We booked with Maya Walk Tours through Viator. 

Tikal National Park

Once the epicenter of the Mayan civilization, Tikal is the largest Mayan city ever constructed. Formerly home to 150,000 people and more than 2,000 structures, it’s now dramatically reclaimed by nature. Its ruins reveal the achievements, ceremonies and eventual collapse of the ancient Maya. Nature trails link towering temples, buried mounds and ongoing excavations while wildlife such as toucans, parrots, spider monkeys, and foxes roam the surrounding forest. We explored the ancient wonder on a cross border day trip from Belize to Gatemala. 

Temple of the Double Headed Serpent.  A ceremonial temple and the largest at Tikal. It’s crumbling ruins rise 70 meters from the jungle canopy. Stairs lead to its upper levels with views of the expansive jungle canopy and distant temples protruding from it. We imagined what the city must have looked like from this vantage point during its peak. 

Fun Fact.  The view from this temple is made famous by s scene in Star Wars when the Millennium Falcon landed on the rebel moon base of Yavin 4.

Temple of the Jaguar Priest.  One of the tallest temples at Tikal. It’s upper levels rise from the jungle canopy while it’s base is overgrown with vegetation. The temple is not accessible bt can be viewed through the trees below and from Temple IV. 

The Lost World Complex.  A large ceremonial complex with multiple temples, pyramids and an astronomical acropolis. It’s largest pyramid has an observation deck overlooking several nearby temples and pyramids across Tikal.  

The Talud Tablero Temple.  A temple within The Lost World complex featuring architectural influences from the Teotihuacan civilization. Climbable steps lead up its wide base and sloped levels to an exposed room at its top. 

Plaza of Seven Temples.  A linear astronomical acropolis with seven pyramids and temples designed to track the solstices and study the stars. Many of the structures remain overgrown and only partially exposed. 

The North Acropolis.  The most well preserved and recognizable acropolis at Tikal. Its central plaza framed by multiple pyramids, residential structures and a ball court. Once home to Mayan royals and the burial site of past rulers, it features tombs and stelae. The complex is largely free to explore, including the opportunity to climb two of its pyramids for sweeping views of neighboring structures and close-up looks at their detailed carvings and hieroglyphs.

Temple of the Great Jaguar.  The most picturesque pyramid at Tikal residing at the center of the North Acropolis. It’s ten level stepped sides lead to a throne room at its top. Though non-accessible, the temple can be view from the plaza and Temple II

The Temple of Masks.  A large stepped pyramid with a shrine at its upper level featuring eroded carvings of two masks. It offers the best views of the North Acropolis and 

Getting Here.  We visited Tikal with Belize Family Excursions on a day trip from San Ignacio. Our tour included transportation across the boarder of Belize and Guatemala, free time to explore the ruins and lunch at a local restaurant in Guatemala. 

Actun Tunichil Muknal Cave

Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM) is one of the most sacred places to the ancient Mayans, considered the entrance to the underworld. The sprawling cave system features an underground river and breathtaking rock formations. The chambers of the cave contain sacrificial human remains and Mayan pottery. The cave is well protected, with only a limited number of visitors permitted to enter per day.

The Entrance of the Underworld 

A hike through the jungle and across three shallow rivers leads to the entrance of the cave. A striking blue river flows from the darkness of its mouth. We swam inside with headlamps lighting the way. We squeezed through tight crevices and water filled passages before entering wider chambers and climbing over rocks as the river moved around us. Along the way, we admired clusters of stalactites and stalagmites used as musical instruments, like a xylophone, by the ancient Maya when tapped on. We scrambled up to a cliff to access the cave’s vast second half.

Ceremonial Chambers 

At this point, we removed our shoes and continued in our socks out of reverence of what awaited. We stepped into a massive cathedral like chamber with columns of rock, sparkling stalactites and mineral pools. Countless pieces of 1,000 year old pottery lay all around us, many of which remained mostly intact. Carved stalagmites cast shadows said to depict stories of Mayan gods. As we moved deeper, we encountered skeletal remains of sacrificial victims, including skulls and the bones of infants, culminating in the haunting sight of two calcified and exceptionally well preserved skeletons at the chamber’s furthest reach.

Mayan History

The ancient Mayans visited Actun Tunichil Muknal to make sacrifices in hopes the gods would provide water and end an extensive drought. When the rituals failed, the Mayan’s abandoned many parts of Belize and Guatemala leaving behind the ruins of their ancient cities.

Good to Know

• Less than 200 people are allowed in per day. We booked ahead of time with Maya Walk Tours on Viator.

• Phones, cameras, food and water bottles are prohibited. Photos provided are courtesy of Maya Walk Tours. 

• The trailhead to ATM is located over an hour from San Ignacio by car. 

• Like our tour of Caracol, it included a similar lunch. 

• You will get wet! Bring an extra pair of clothes and shoes to change into. 

Rio Frio Cave 

A sacred cave with a massive entrance, chamber and series of rock formations, including one resembling the profile of a monkey.  The ancient Maya believed the god of rain, Chacc, resided here, often appearing as a cloud of mist exiting the cave in the early morning. Visits are usually included on excursions to Caracol. 

Rio in Pool

Relaxing in Belize’s mountain rivers is a popular local pastime. The Rio in Pools are natural river pools formed in the bedrock of the Rio Frio. Contrary to the name, the pools are not cold but quite tepid. They are surrounded by a pine forest known as the pine ridge mountain. 

Western Belize 

Even in more remote areas of Western Belize are small towns and cities with thriving local culture, markets, restaurants and festivals. 

Cayo District.  A jungleous region of Belize on the west side of the country bordering Guatemala. It is home to lush terrain, underground rivers and most notably, Mayan ruins and temples. 

San Ignacio.  The main city in the Cayo District with a local and backpacker vibes. It’s a hub for eco activities and excursions on both sides of the Belize and Guatemalan boarders. 

Burns Avenue.  A pedestrian street in the center of San Ignacio with hostels, shops, restaurants, bars and tour operators. We visited in early may during the Cinco de Mayo Festival. The street was decorated with colorful banderas and came to life at night with music, fireworks and vendors selling street food. We ate papusas, tortas, and sambusas while sipping on margaritas and the local beer, Belikin. 

Bullet Tree Falls.  A remote town 5km from San Ignacio in the middle of the jungle only accessible by dirt road. We stayed here at the Mahogany Hall. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Lola’s Restaurant and Bar.  An outdoor patio perched on the hill overlooking San Ignacio. The menu was heavily seafood based. We ordered the herbed fish, blackened fish, conch & octopus ceviche as well as a few cocktails.

Ko Ox Han Nah.  A popular restaurant for Belizean cuisine made from local ingredients, mostly sourced from the San Ignacio Market. We ordered the whole fried red snapper and garlic rum shrimp with sides of coconut rise. 

Booze and Branches.  An open air bar circling a large tree with twinkle lights and linen draped pergolas made from branches. They offered classic cocktails like margaritas, mojitos, sangria and rum-ritas.

Guava Limb.  A locally recommended restaurant on Burns Ave with a fusion of foods from Belize and South East Asia as well as brick oven pizza. We spent hours here chatting with a new friend, Jacob, who we met during our excursion to Actun Tunichil Muknal.

Coffee de los Mayas.  A coffee shop with a walk-up counter located on Burns Ave. 

San Ignacio Market.  A daily farmers market held near the center of town from 6am to 5pm. Local vendors set up stands selling vegetables, fruits, honey, souvenirs and street food. Come here for breakfast at Magaly’s Fast Food, sorrel (hibiscus juice) & horchata (sweetened rice milk).

Belizean Cuisine  

• Fry Jacks.  Deep-fried pieces of dough served with refried beans and tropical fruit.

• Salbutes.  Deep fried corn tortillas topped with veggies or meat. 

• Pupusas.  A white corn arepa stuffed with various fillings or toppings. We had the bean and cheese pupusas. 

• Escapeche.  Chicken and onion stewed in a curry sauce. We were offered a vegetarian version made with tofu during lunches on our excursions. 

• Sorrel.  Hibiscus juice. 

• Marie Sharps.  A popular habanero hot sauce seen on nearly every dining table throughout Belize. 

• Belikin.  Belize’s national beer with a Mayan temple on its label. 

Where to Stay

We stayed at, Mahogany Hall, an eco hotel along the banks of the Mopan River in the town of Bullet Tree Falls. It was a peaceful location in the middle of the tropical jungle. Our room was accented with mahogany furniture with carvings of jaguars, toucans and tropical plants. The hotel has a restaurant, bar and infinity pool. We enjoyed breakfast here most mornings and a Belikin by the pool during the evenings. 

The Mopan River.  While here, we joined locals and waded in Mopan River to cool off from the afternoon heat. We lounged on the shallow river bed as the current gently passed by and tropical birds chased each other over head.  

Getting Around 

Airport Shuttle.  We shuttled to and from the airport and our hotel in Bullet Tree Falls with Belize Family Adventure through Viator. Transportation took less than two hours and was a good way to see the countryside.

Excursions.  All of our excursions included transportation. We were either picked up from our hotel or at the operator’s office before being shuttled to our destination.

By Taxi.  In San Ignacio, taxis were easy to find and would more than often find us. Identifiable by their green license plates with white letters. We took the number of one taxi driver, Apellio, who quickly became our driver while in town.Taxis cost $20-25 Belize Dollars ($10-$12.50 USD) between Bullet Tree Falls and San Ignacio. 

On Foot.  San Ignacio is a relatively small town and can be easily walked on foot.

Good to Know

Currency. The Belizean Dollar and US Dollar are used interchangeably across the island. At the time, the exchange rate was 1 USD to 2 BLZ, making conversions and transactions easy. 

Cash vs Card.  Carry cash for for taxis, snacks and tips. 

Language.  English is the most commonly spoken language in Belize. Spanish is most commonly spoken in Guatemala. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption due to risk of contamination. Only drink filtered or bottled water. 

Elsewhere in Belize & Guatemala 

Explore our guide on the Caye Caulker for an island escape in Belize or our guides on Lago Atitlán and Antigua for volcanic landscapes and cultural experiences in Guatemala.

For Next Time…

We fell in love with the jungle, Mayan ruins and culture of Belize and Guatemala. We will certainly be back one day and have plans to visit more locations across both countries. 

Altun Ha.  A Mayan acropolis with pyramids, temples, ball courts and platforms on the mainland north of Belize City. 

Tikal Sunrise Hike.  An early morning hike in Tikal to watch the sunrise from the top of the famed pyramids. We saw photos of the colorful sunrise, layers of morning mist and dramatic ruins peak from jungleous canopy below.

Flores, Guatemala.  A picturesque island city on Lago Petén Itzá known for it’s colorful architecture and proximity to Mayan ruins. 

Caye Caulker, Belize

Caye Caulker, Belize

Caye Caulker, Belize is a small Caribbean island with a tropical atmosphere and laid back way of life. The slow and sleepy vibes are emphasized by the islands motto “Go Slow.” Its sand covered streets, named after marine life, are lined with colorful wooden buildings, many of which are elevated on stilts. Conch shells decorate yards as palm trees sway above and pelicans flock overhead. Reggae beats play from beachfront bars, tours depart for the Belize Barrier Reef and locals sell handmade shell jewelry. The island is touristy but not overly developed allowing it to retain its character. 

The Belize Barrier Reef

The Belize Barrier Reef is the second largest coral reef in the world, stretching hundreds of miles along the Caribbean shores of Belize. The reef’s multi-hued blue waters are home to vast coral formations, low lying atolls, mangrove islands and tidal sand bars. The reef is teeming with all manner of marine life, making it a popular spot for snorkelers like us as well as divers, fishers and sailors. We were able to experience the reef from above and below, flying over parts of its expanse to The Blue Hole and snorkeling in the Hol Chan Marine Reserve. 

Seven Spot Snorkeling Tour 

We booked a snorkel tour stopping at seven points around Caye Caulker and The Great Belize Barrier Reef, including Shark Ray Alley and the Hol Chan Marine Reserve. 

The Coral Gardens.  A healthy reef home to a variety of colorful coral formations. Corals sway in the gentle currents as schools of tropical of fish swim past. 

Hol Chan Marine Reserve.  A protected marine reserve with an vast array of biodiversity and sea life. Our guide led us through an underwater “snorkel trail” to spot some of the reserve’s best sights. Between the giant coral formations, he pointed out countless species of marine life including a moray eel, barracudas, parrot fish, angelfish, blue striped grunts, horse eye jacks, sea fans, giant anemones, conches, christmas tree worms, sea urchins, sand dollars and a puffed up pufferfish with the scariest green eyes. 

Shark Ray Alley.  A grassy sandbar and feeding area with dozens of nurse sharks. We snorkeled and swam alongside them as they circled the boat and came within feet of us. Green sea turtles grazed in the open field of seagrass while small fish swam around pockets of corals. 

The Sunken Barge.  An underwater wreck now overgrown with lively corals and schools of colorful, striped and tropical reef fish. We snorkeled above the wreck and watched as fish swam in and out of holes in the ship. 

On our return to Caye Caulker, we stopped at Manatee Point, Tarpon Cove and Stingray Beach to spot manatees, tarpon, stingrays and seahorses. The full day tour included fresh fruit, lunch, rum punch and snorkel equipment. We booked with Salt Life Eco Tours on Get Your Guide. 

The Great Blue Hole Fly Over Tour 

The Great Blue Hole is a perfectly round geological formation famed for its deep blue color contrasted by lighter blues of the surrounding shallows. It was created by an underwater sink hole that collapsed and filled with seawater, giving it its color. We flew over it as if in a trance, circling from different altitudes on both sides of the airplane. In route, we flew over cayes, small islands, atolls, corals reefs and drop offs that created an intense spectrum of blue hues ranging from aquamarine to bright blue, turquoise, deep blue and navy. Looking out the windows, we were mesmerized by the blue beauty of the Caribbean and Belize Barrier Reef. The flight lasted about an hour. Though expensive, it is a sight worth seeing! We booked directly with Maya Island Air. 

Things to Do 

Sunset Tiki Bar Cruise.  In love with all things tiki, we joined several others aboard the “Pontiki,” a pontoon boat converted into a floating tiki bar with a palm thatched roof and side skirt, bamboo railing, kitschy tiki decor, one of a kind tiki mugs and bamboo straws. Most importantly, the cruise included the booziest rum punch made with Belizean rums. For nearly two hours, our captain boated us around the Caye, refilling our tiki mugs and bringing us to the perfect spot for a Caribbean sunset. We booked with Nina’s Pontiki Cruises on Viator. 

Visit The Split.  The Split is a narrow channel separating the north and south sides of Caye Caulker. It is the informal center of the island and common departure point for tours. Visit The Lazy Lizard,  a beach club with an outdoor restaurant, expansive bar and music venue. Their pier is lined with colorful wooden lounges, tables shaded by thatched umbrellas and a ladder with a diving platform. 

We spent an afternoon lounging along the pier with tropical cocktails and lunch. Try the frozen coconut mojito and spicy margarita. After working on our tan, we swam around and snorkeled in the aquamarine waters, spotting stingrays, conch and starfish. At night, we returned for their Full Moon Party where we danced in the sand and howled at the full moon as live DJs spun House and Reggae music.

Feed or High Five a Tarpon.  Tarpon are giant ”bone fish” that grow up to several feet in length. On the west side of the caye is a small boardwalk where they swim around waiting to be fed. For $5 BZD, buy some bait, hold it above the water and wait for one of the giant fish to quickly jump out and snatch it from your hand. Alternatively, hold your hand just above the water and wait for one of the tarpon to “high five” your hand. It’s a common stop on snorkel tours. 

Spot Stingrays & Seahorses at Stingray Beach.  A small beach at the Iguana Reef Inn with palm shaded lounges, a thatched bar and habitat for stingrays and seahorses. We stopped in for rum cocktails and took our pick of the many lounges set up along shore before relaxing in the overwater swings and hammocks. While here, we spotted yellow and brown seahorses slinking alongside the pier and giant stingrays fluttering through the shallows near shore. It’s a common stop on most snorkel tours. 

Belizean Cuisine 

Belizean cuisine on Caye Caulker is influenced Caribbean and West Indies flavors. Restaurants barbecue the day’s fresh catch on street side grills, beach shacks serve savory fried foods, dishes are flavored with jerk seasonings, coconut, curry and spicy hot sauces. Dishes to try are Jerk and coconut shrimp, whole fried and grilled red snapper, grilled Caribbean lobster, conch fritters, conch and shrimp ceviche, coconut rice and curried seafood.

• Fry Jacks.  Deep-fried pieces of dough typically stuffed with refried beans served at breakfast. 

• Pupusas.  A corn masa arepa stuffed with various fillings like black bean and cheese, topped with a pickled cabbage and carrot slaw. 

• Johnny Cakes.  Sweet coconut and vanilla biscuits. 

• Marie Sharps.  The national hot sauce made with habanero and carrot. It’s available everywhere.

Places to Eat & Drink 

For a tiny island, there is no shortage of places to eat and drink! We visited several spots during our week on the Caye for local cuisine and island bites. 

Ice n’ Beans.  A coffee shop and cafe with breakfast sandwiches, fresh baked banana bread, rum balls and mini donuts. We quickly became regulars here during our week on the Caye, sitting at the yellow picnic tables under the palm trees with seaside views of the Caribbean. 

Errolyn's House Of Fryjacks.  A popular breakfast spot to try Belizean Fryjacks. Order any combination stuffed with refried beans, eggs, bacon, chicken, ham and cheese. Don’t forget to top it with house made green salsa! 

Pelican Sunset Bar.  The spot to watch the sunset, enjoy rum cocktails and feast on Caribbean seafood!We saw the sun set as leopard rays fluttered through the water, sipped on happy hour rum punches and ordered the island’s best conch fritters, whole fried red snapper and grilled lobster. Arrive an hour before the sunset to claim a table or sit along the dock with your feet dangling in the water. 

Big Titty Rum Bar.   A rum bar with a variety of house made and infused rums. With friends, we ordered a spread of daiquiris from classic, habanero, tamarind and grapefruit coconut. We came back near nightly for a final drink or shot of rum.

Las Palapas.  A higher end restaurant with surf and turf dishes and a full wine menu. It has a beachy and romantic vibe with a sand floor, wooden furniture and warmly lit chandeliers all under a thatched roof. We ordered the curry seafood and snapper filet. We came here for our friend’s engagement dinner and were not disappointed by quality of the food nor the service. 

Reina's.  We were lured in on our first night in town by a street side barbecue with fresh lobsters, red snapper and shrimp sizzling on its grates. We sat on rickety wooden furniture inside the beach style shack with sand below our feet while sipping on a Belikin as our food grilled. The restaurant is first come first serve but is worth the wait. Arrive just after opening to get first pick of the day’s fresh catch.

Roy’s Blue Water Grill.  One of the many seafood bar and grills on the Caye. We came here for dinner in hopes of tasting their well reviewed lion fish. Though they were sold out, we enjoyed fried cod fritters, snapper filets and coconut curry veggies.  

Hebbie Jeebies.  A street side bar with a menu of tropical rum cocktails like the rum runner, painkiller, mojito, piña colada or island favorite, Lizard Juice, made with Caribbean rum, pine apple juice and neon green Curaçao. Cocktails are served frozen or on the rocks. For an extra cost, they can be served in a coconut or pineapple! 

Nicco’s Ice Cream.  An Ice cream parlor with Belizean flavors like coconut, chocolate, tequila rose and sugar corn. The layer of which, literally tasted like sweet corn. 

Belize Chocolate Company.  A chocolate shop with Belizean chocolates including artisan truffles, brownies, cookies, chocolate bars, hot chocolate and cocoa nib tea.

Caye Caulker Bakery.  A bakery famed across the Caye for their cinnamon rolls. We stopped in on our last day for two of the spiraled and glazed cinnamon pastries. 

Belizean Rums & Beers 

Belizean rums and beers are popular across the country and often very affordable compared to anything imported. The most popular Belizean rum is Caribbean Rum. It’s available in clear, amber and coconut flavored varieties, all perfect for mixing in cocktails. The two most popular Belizean beers are Belikin and Land Shark. 

Belikin.  Belize’s national beer, baring the country’s most famed Mayan ruin, Caracol, embossed on its bottle. Its flavor is light but very bready. 

Land Shark.  A very easy drinking light beer with a slightly citric flavor. 

Caribbean Fusion Brewing Company.  The islands only brewery with brews influenced by the flavors of the island. We visited their second floor taproom and ordered a flight:

• Tropical Seltzer.  The house spiked seltzer made in a variety of tropical flavors like lime, fruit punch and pineapple. 

• Pale Ale. A classic beer with a rye forward flavor.

• Belgian Ale 1.  An ale with a slightly sour flavor close in flavor to a hefeweizen.  

• Belgian Ale 2.  An ale with a darker color and molasses flavor. 

• IPA.  An IPA with a very lightly hopped flavor and sweet finish. 

• Stout. A coconut flavored stout made with coconut water.

Where to Stay

Rik's Getaway Cabin.  We stayed at the most perfectly appointed tiny house on the south side of Caye Caulker in a very local area of the island. Perched on stilts, the tiny house included a full kitchen, queen sized bed, spacious bathroom with washer & dryer, board games, a tv and an outdoor deck with a ledge for dining. Book on Airbnb.

The Treetops Hotel.  A boutique hotel with spacious apartment style rooms equipped with full kitchens. The property has its own private beach, a rooftop patio, outdoor pool and free bike rentals. We visited our friends staying here to cook together, lounge on the beach and sip on rooftop cocktails. 

Getting Here 

The only ways to reach Caye Caulker is by ferry or airplane. Ferries and flights operate between Caye Caulker, San Pedro, Belize City and Chetumal, Mexico. 

San Pedro Belize Express. Ferries depart daily a frequent times between 6am and 5pm. We booked tickets online arriving in Caye Caulker from Chetumal, Mexico with a stop in San Pedro for customs. We departed from Caye Caulker, arriving in Belize City where the ferry operator shuttled us to the international airport.

Pro Tip.  Don’t worry about missing your scheduled ferry time. As long as tickets remain unused, they’re valid for up to three months at any time slot. 

Maya Island Air & Tropic Air.  The two main airlines with a fleet of puddle jumpers operating flights between Belize City, Caye Caulker, San Pedro and The Blue Hole. Flights are often fast and scenic but expensive. 

Getting Around 

There are very few cars on the island. Golf carts and bikes are the main form of transportation on the island, however it’s also easily walkable. 

On Foot.  It takes 30 minutes on foot to travel between the caye’s furthest points, the airport and “The Split.” Wear flip flops or sandals to walk through large puddles and pools of water after rain. 

By Bike.  Bikes are an easy way to get around the island. Most hotels offer free bike though there are some rentals in town for around $10 USD per day. 

By Taxi (Golf Cart).  It takes 10 minutes by golf cart to travel between the island’s furthest points, the airport and “The Split.” Taxis only cost a few USD and are commonly available. 

Good to Know 

Currency. The Belizean Dollar and US Dollar are used interchangeably across the island. At the time, the exchange rate was 1 USD to 2 BLZ, making conversions and transactions easy. 

Cash vs Card.  About half of the island is cash only, especially at smaller restaurants, bars and cafes. 

Language.  English is the most commonly spoken language. Spanish and Creole are frequently spoken between locals. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption due to risk of contamination. Only drink filtered or bottled water. 

Happy Hours.  Most bars have happy house from 4-7pm, perfect timing after retuning from a tour.

Dinner Hours.  Most restaurants and kitchens close between 9-10pm nightly. 

Toilets.  Like most places in Central American, the plumbing is not the greatest. Used toilet paper is not flushed but put in a bin next to the toilet. 

Reef Safe Sunblock.  Only use reef safe sunblock on the island or in the water to avoid harming the corals and marine life. 

Safety.  Caye Caulker is extremely safe! The locals are some of the friendliest and most down to earth people we have ever met. 

Drugs.  Locals commonly offer and sell drugs on the streets. They’re not pushy about it. Simply tell them no thank you if not interested. 

Elsewhere in Belize 

Explore our guide on the Mayan Jungle for travel ideas along the country’s interior and western boarder. 

For Next Time… 

This was our second trip to Belsize and we’re already dreaming of returning to this beautiful country to experience more it its culture, nature and history! When we return, we plan to visit some of the coastal cities and Mayan ruins. 

Hopkins.  A seaside village home to the Garifuna, the indigenous and Afro-Caribbean people of Belize with a rich culture. 

Placencia Peninsula.  A fishing village and beach town with white sand beaches.

Altun Ha.  A Mayan acropolis with pyramids, temples, ball courts and platforms on the mainland north of Belize City. 

Lamanai.  the ruins of a Mayan temple only accessible by boating deep into the jungle.

Antigua, Guatemala

Antigua, Guatemala

Antigua is a picturesque and historic city with colonial era streets, a lively cultural scene and views of imposing volcanos. The city’s charm invites travelers to admire its Spanish colonial architecture and explore the remains of crumbling ruins. The bustling food scene and cafe culture make Antigua a wonderful place to taste traditional Guatemalan dishes and coffee. Vendors at artisan markets sell handmade crafts, colorful textiles and vibrant ceramics. Backpackers stay at local hostels and study at Spanish language schools. Overnight hikes lead to summit of nearby volcanos including the explosive, Volcán de Fuego. 

A Colonial Gem

Dating back nearly 500 years, Antigua is the Spanish colonial gem of Guatemala. Landmark sights, museums, ornate cathedrals and crumbling ruins built of stone, brick and plaster line Antigua’s grid of cobble stone streets. Warmly painted facades ranging in tones of red, ochre, yellow and cream alternate from building to building. Carved wooden doors often lead to lush shaded courtyards occupied by restaurants and cafes. Popular terraces boast views overlooking the clay tiled roofs, cathedral spires and imposing volcanos. 

Colonial Sights 

Santa Catalina Arch.  A famous yellow arch and clock tower stretching over the cobblestone street and framing Volcan de Agua. Come just after sunrise for the best view without groups of people.

Catedral de San José.  A cathedral built into the ruins of Catedral de Santiago. Its grand white facade with intricate plaster work, niches containing statues and large wooden doors spans the eastern width of Parque Central. 

Parque Central.  A park and plaza at the center of Antigua with benches, trees, gardens and a mermaid fountain with water spraying from her breasts. Locals come to relax with their families, vendors sell ice cream cones, guides offer walking tours and shoeshiners polish boots. It’s surrounded by restaurants, cafes, shops and colonial landmarks. 

La Iglesia de Merced.  A baroque style church with a yellow facade decorated in finely detailed white stucco ornamentation of grape vines and bunches. La Merced remains one of the few undamaged churches to survived from the centuries of earthquakes.

Iglesia del Carmen.  The crumbling ruins of a church held together by supports and scaffolding. It’s in accessible but can be admired from out front of it’s baroque facade. 

Tanque la Union.  A yellow arched pavilion and former colonial laundry well turned into a public fountain and park.

Cerro de la Cruz.  A hilltop hike to a viewpoint overlooking Antigua, the volcanos, mountains and valley. It’s popular at sunset or the early morning. The hike takes 10-15 minutes from the entrance guarded by police.

Crumbling Ruins 

Antigua is an architectural and archeological play ground with ruins of colonial buildings & churches destroyed during centuries of earthquakes. 

Catedral de Santiago.  The ruins of a massive cathedral characterized by its collapsed domed ceiling revealing the sky above. Many arches of the domed ceiling remain, held up by towering brick and stone columns, some of which are still embellished in delicate plaster moldings and flourishes.  

Iglesia La Recolección.  Destroyed beyond repair, a lone arch and set of stairs lead to this former church where only the walls remain standing. Within its sanctuary are toppled columns, massive pieces of brick masonry and plaster debris. The ruins can be explored and even climbed on, making for a photogenic picture. The remaining grounds encompass two courtyards with the ruins of a convent. 

Convento de San Capuchinas.  A former convent turned into an art museum. The grounds contain an interior courtyard, the ruins of a church, a butterfly garden and a circular building of nun’s cells complete with creepy nun mannequins. Exhibits display a collection religious artwork, pre-colonial artifacts, broken statues and stone masonry.

Convento Santa Clara.  The ruins of a church and convent with an ornate stone facade and crumbling cloisters surrounding a lush garden courtyard. The beautiful setting doubles as an event space for dreamy weddings.  

Iglesia de San Francisco.  A restored church with a partially collapsed facade and grounds with the crumbing ruins of a former monastery used by the friars. With in the grounds are lush gardens home to nesting green parrots and walkways leading to a second floor with views of the volcanos.

Iglesia San Jerónimo.  The ruins of a former church. All that remains is a grassy courtyard with a restored fountain and some accessible cloisters.  

Museums 

Museo de Arte Colonial.  A colonial art museum with galleries of religious paintings and artifacts. The museum is one of the few buildings not destroyed during the 1773 earthquake and featured on the 100 Quetzal bill.

Museo Nacional de Arte De Guatemala (MUNAG).  A Guatemalan art museum adjacent to the Parque Central. It includes paintings of the country’s landscapes, Mayan people, Guatemala’s declaration of independence, iron cannons, religious artwork and pre-Colombian artifacts.

Artisan & Local Markets

Parque la Merced.  Located outside of La Iglesia de Merced, this park is brimming with food and craft vendors. It’s one of the best places in the city to find every kind of Guatemalan street food or sweet imaginable. A fountain with fish reliefs relocated from Iglesia de San Francisco is located here.

Mercado Central.  A large market with a maze of aisles and booths under a patchwork tin roof. Locals come here for every day necessitates including produce, meats, flowers, shoes, clothes, electronics, appliances, toys, etc. There are restaurant stalls in a food court style pavilion. We brought home fresh purple corn tortillas from here. 

Mercado de Artesanias.  A beautiful handicrafts market with vendors selling colorful textiles, painted ceramics, wooden objects, jade jewelry and souvenirs. Come here to haggle and buy something locally made. We bought mugs, a tortilla blanket and an ornament. 

Mercado de Artesanias El Carmen.  A handicrafts market with aisles of vendors selling locally made items and souvenirs. It’s located next to the ruins of Iglesia El Carmen.

Volcanic Landscapes 

Antigua is flanked by dormant and actives volcanos providing a breathtaking landscape that creates a postcard style backdrop to the city’s colonial era streets. 

Volcán de Fuego.  Known as “The Volcano of Fire,” Fuego has been continuously erupting since 2002 with bursts of lava and clouds of ash spewing from its summit every 15 to 30 minutes. Views of its eruptions can be regularly seen from Antigua both day and night.

Volcán Acatenango.  The twin volcano to Fuego and tallest of the 3 surrounding Antigua. Many backpackers hike and camp overnight on its slopes to witness Fuego’s eruptions up close. 

Volcán de Agua.  A dormant cone shaped volcano to the south of Antigua. The best views of its summit are during the early morning before clouds settle in. 

Overnight on Acatenango

Volcán de Acatenango should be on every backpacker’s wish list! We joined a guided group to hike it’s slopes, camp overnight, witness unclose eruptions of Volcán de Fuego and watch a beautiful sunrise. It was one of the most physically exhausting things we’ve done but equally rewarding.

Hike to Basecamp 

The hike to basecamp started at Aldea la Soledad, a small village an hour outside Antigua. It marks the trail head of La Ruta de Acatenango. It brought us through different terrains and micro climates. We began our assent on a trail through farmland and steep dirt stairs. Climbing in altitude, we reached the cloud forest, a wooded area with tall moss covered trees, ferns, slippery trails and constant fog. The fog began to lift the further we hiked, completely clearing by the time we reached the pine forest. This forested area is covered pine trees, tall grasses and colorful wildflowers. The hike took 5 hours to reach basecamp.

Acatenango Basecamp

Basecamp was our home for the night and starting point for our hike to the crest of Fuego and the summit of Acatenango. We “slept” in a small A frame style shack, cuddled up to keep warm. The guides kept a small fire lit for warmth and to prepare camp meals. 

The Volcano of Fire

The campsite offered direct views of Volcán de Fuego and its frequent eruptions. During the day, the volcano billowed grey clouds of ash into the blue sky. At night, the red glow of lava rocketed through the air followed by a deep boom and crackling as it spilled down its slopes. Shockwaves from larger eruptions could even be felt in our chests! 

Hike To the Crest of Fuego 

The hike to the barren and black crest of Fuego began from basecamp, passing through pine forest to the saddle between both volcanos. Beyond that point, the ascent grew steep and unstable, with loose gravel and exposed roots. Clouds began to settle as the sun set, blocking views of the summit. After waiting in cold, wet and windy conditions without a clearing, we retuned to basecamp, stopping for brief rests as to glimpse ash, lava and embers pierce the clouds. 

Summit Sunrise

The hike to the summit of Acatenango began a 4am. The sun rose quickly afterwards, illuminating the cloud dappled sky and volcanic landscape in brilliant colors of purple, red and orange. Soon after, we began our descent and return to Antigua. 

Things to Keep in Mind

Hire A Guide.  Guides are not required to hike Acatenango but are helpful when navigating the route. We joined a guided group through a local operator on Viator.

Porters.  There are options to hire a porter to carry your equipment and gear. 

Vendors.  There are vendors along the trail before the pine forest selling snacks and beverages. 

Cash.  Bring plenty of cash for the additional hikes, snacks, beverages and tips 

Gear to Pack.  Bring your own gear or rent equipment from your guide.

• A 30 to 40 liter backpack 

• Hiking shoes/boots

• Warm clothes and layers (thermals, sweaters, scarves, gloves, hats, puffer, waterproof outer later)

• 2-3 liters of water

• Trail snacks 

• Sleeping bag and pillow

• Headlamp or flash light 

• Sunblock 

• Toilet paper 

• Hand sanitizer 

• Sunglasses

• A power bank 

Volcanic Farmland 

Antigua’s fertile volcanic valleys make it ideal for growing a range of crops including coffee, cacao and macadamia nut. We visited, Valhalla Farm, A sustainable and organic macadamia nut farm with free tours, tastings, a restaurant and spa. We came here for a full body macadamia nut oil massage after our overnight hike to Volcán de Fuego. It was so relaxing and therapeutic! The farm tour included a walk around the grounds to see the macadamia nut trees, learn how they’re harvested and processed. Afterwards, we sampled macadamia nut products like roasted nuts, chocolates, baked goods and oils. 

Cafe Culture

Antigua has a bustling cafe culture with many small cafes, coffee shops and breakfast spots brewing Guatemalan grown and roasted coffee beans. 

Bakery San Martin.  A cafe and bakery with fresh breads, cookies, and carafes of French pressed Guatemalan coffee. Come for the “Desayuno Antigueno,” which includes scrambled eggs with onion and tomato, breads, fried sweet plantains, refried beans and tortilla with cheese. 

El Gran Cafe.  A small coffee shop for Guatemalan coffee and light pastries. We brought home two bags of whole beans. 

12 Onzas.  A cafe for Guatemalan pour over coffee, light pastries and classic breakfast dishes. 

Places to Eat 

We quickly learned that Antigua has a thriving food scene with restaurants serving traditional and contemporary Guatemalan dishes, authentic street food and vegan or vegetarian options. Most restaurants in Antigua have a garden courtyard, rooftop or terrace and interior dining room. 

Los Tres Tiempos.  A colorfully decorated restaurant with a lush outdoor terrace and menu including traditional brunch dishes. Try the sweet corn pancakes covered in a creamed corn sauce, the chilaquiles with white & blue corn chips and red & green sauce or the fruit platter with pineapple, papaya and water melon. 

27 Adentro.  A restaurant with a modern take on Guatemalan and Latin dishes. It has a garden courtyard and rooftop with views of Volcán de Fuego. We saw a large eruption with lava from here. There are many vegetation options including pepián, sopa de maíz, tostone cups and sangria. 

La Fonda Calle Real.  Around lunch time, the smell of pan fired masa wafting from the store front comal invites passersby in. The romantic interior has an open air courtyard with a canopy of flowering vines. The menu consists of traditional Guatemalan dishes. We tried the vegetarian pepián, chile relleno and plantains con mole. 

Saberico.  A vegetarian friendly garden restaurant with a sprawling outdoor patio and menu of contemporary Guatemalan dishes. We ordered the beet & cabbage tostadas, chile relleno and kombucha cocktails.

Antojito Salvadoreño.  An unofficial restaurant specializing in pupusas. Call ahead to order and wait outside of the Condominio Arcadas for pick up. We ordered cheese and bean pupusas with a canoa de platano. 

Frida’s.  A Mexican style restaurant themed after Frida Kahlo with portraits of the artist pictured throughout. The menu specializes in tacos and margaritas. We tried the veggie tacos, crispy broccoli in poblano mole and seitan al pastor tacos with pineapple. For drinks, the spicy mezcal margarita and hibiscus mezcal margarita. 

El Adobe.  The eye-catching entry with a display of colorfully painted Guatemalan wooden masks invites passersby in for a look at the menu. The restaurant serves traditional Guatemalan and Mayan inspired dishes. We ordered the blue corn tortillas with cheese and salsa, fried black beans and a whole fried fish called Mojarra. 

Places to Drink

Together with a brewery, speakeasy, dive and rooftop bar, there is no shortage of places to find a drink in Antigua. 

Antigua Brewing Company.  A brewery with local beers and city views from their terrace. We sampled a flight of beers. Two favorites are the Fuego IPA, a very hoppy brew, and the Canchona Blonde Ale, a refreshing and slightly nutty ale.

Ulew.  A dimly lit speakeasy with a stone and brick interior located behind a phone booth in the Antigua Brewing Company. Mixologists make drinks based on your flavor preference. We ordered spicy but balanced tiki style drinks that came out in a volcano and wave mug.

Cafe No Se.  A dive bar for beer and mezcal. The menu is handwritten on cardboard, candles dripping in wax light the interior and the walls are covered in signatures and stickers. We drank and played chess at a table in the corner. 

Adra Hostel.  Come to their energetic courtyard and rooftop for local beers, cocktails and live DJ. 

Guatemalan Cuisine

There are so many authentic dishes to try when visiting Antigua. Some of our favorites include traditional ingredients like corn masa and plantain.  

• Pupusas.  A griddle fried masa patty filled with beans and cheese or meat. 

• Chile Relleno.  A stuffed poblano pepper that’s been breaded and deep fried. It common to be stuffed with cheese or rice, beans and vegetables.  

• Pepián.  A spiced stew made with a base or green or red tomatoes. I can be vegetable or meat based. 

• Sopa de Maíz.  A creamy corn soup. 

• Tostones.  Twice fried and smashed green plantains, often served with a salsa. 

• Purple Corn Masa.  Purple corn used to make any corn based dish like tortillas or pupusas. 

• Platano con Mole.  A sweet plantain that’s been fried and covered in a savory sweet mole sauce. 

• Canoa de Platano.  A whole sweet plantain that’s been deep fried, cut open like a canoe and filled with a sweet cream sauce. 

• Mojarra.  A popular Central American fish. It’s commonly served whole fried with lime. 

• Gallo.  A lager and the beer of choice across Guatemala, recognizable by it label picturing a rooster. 

• Nispero.  Popular at fruit stands and in dishes at restaurants. Small orange fruits with a citrus peachy flavor, a thin skin and pit. Try them fresh, jammed, canned or in a sauce. 

Where to Stay 

Antigua is a large backpacker destination with apartment rentals and hostels throughout the city. We stayed in a centrally located Airbnb at the El Solar Apartments. The apartment was a renovated ruin with exposed brick, stone walls, wooden beams and artwork of the city. 

Getting Around 

Guatemala City to Antigua.  Book a transfer between Guatemala City and Antigua with a reputable local agency like Due South Travels. They safely shuttled us between the airport and our stay in Antigua during late night hours.  

On Foot.  Antigua is a very walkable city. Exploring it on foot is the best way to see the colonial sights, crumbing ruins and volcanic views. 

By Taxi.  Yellow cabs and Ubers are readily in Antigua. They’re an affordable way of reaching nearby locations. Always confirm the price and destination before getting into the taxi. 

Good to Know

• Water:  Tap water is not drinkable. 

• Cash vs Card:  Many businesses are cash only. 

• Safety:  We found the city to be safe and people to be very welcoming and friendly. 

• Language:  Spanish is widely spoken, many people speak English and some speak Mayan.

• UV Protection:  Wear sunblock. The higher altitude makes the sun’s UV stronger.

Elsewhere in Guatemala 

Explore our guide on Lago Atitlán, Guatemala and The Mayan ruins of Tikal in our guide to San Ignacio, Belize. 

For Next Time… 

• Flores, Guatemala.  A picturesque island city on Lago Petén Itzá known for it’s colorful architecture and proximity to Mayan ruins.

• Monterrico.  A beach town along Guatemala’s Pacific Coast known for its black sand beaches and annual sea turtle migrations.

• El Paredón.  A sleepy surf town along Guatemala’s Pacific Coast with black sand beaches and great year round surf conditions. 

Lago Atitlán, Guatemala

Lago Atitlán, Guatemala

Lago Atitlan is a fresh water lake in a volcanic crater of Guatemala’s lush and rugged highlands. Its shores are surrounded by conical volcanos, nature preserves, coffee farms and small pueblos home to Mayan cultures, indigenous peoples and backpackers. 

San Juan de la Laguna 

San Juan de la Laguna is a pueblo with an authentic and vibrant local culture known for its handicrafts and artistic traditions preserved by indigenous women. Buildings throughout town are painted with colorful murals depicting the women and their artistry. The main streets are decorated in canopies of umbrellas, banderas and string lights. Cafes, bakeries, textile shops, art galleries and roof top restaurants with views of Lake Atitlán are common places to taste the local culture.

Los Calles de las Sombrillas.  A series of painted streets throughout the pueblo with a canopy of colorful umbrellas, banderas and string lights hanging overhead. The most vibrant street leads from the ferry dock into town, passing craft and souvenir stores, cafes serving Guatemalan coffee, galleries selling colorful paintings and walls painted with vibrant murals depicting the local culture. 

Market Municipal.  A small produce market along La Calle de las Sombrillas with vendors selling fresh vegetables, produce, dried peppers, eggs, herbs and lake fish. We bought groceries for the week to cook Guatemalan meals in our hotel’s traditional kitchen. 

SOL 4.  The main road that passes through San Juan. After the last ferries leave for the day, this road becomes the epicenter of activity for locals. Whole families gather for dinner as street food vendors fill the air with aromas of grilled meats, fresh made tortillas and burning charcoal. Brightly illuminated chicken buses roar past, announcing their presence with the honk of a train horn.

Iglesia Católica San Juan La Laguna.  A historic but simple stone church in the center of town with dual bells. The plaza in front of it is a popular spot for street food vendors selling pollo con papas (chicken with fries), choco-fruitas (chocolate covered fruits), pan dulces (sweet breads) and micheladas. 

Traditions & Crafts

Indigenous women keep Mayan traditions and crafts alive. Throughout the pueblo, women are seen wearing colorful handwoven textiles, often seen making tortillas on streets and weaving inside shops and collectives.

Licor Marron Chocolate.  A Guatemalan chocolatier with traditional chocolate making classes, tastings and history lessons about cacaos importance to the ancient Mayans. During an hour long class, we began by separating hundreds of dried cacao beans by size to roast in a traditional clay comal (frying pan). An intoxicating chocolate aroma wafted from the beans as they popped and cracked under the heat. Once fully roasted, we separated the husks by hand and pulverized the beans on a traditional grinding stone. We tasted tea made from the husks and ancestral hot chocolate made from the cacao grounds mixed with molasses sugar, cinnamon and cardamom. We bought a few hand pressed bars and large pellet on ancestral chocolate used to make our own hot chocolate at home.

Casa Flor Ixcaco Weaving Cooperative.  A female owned weaving cooperative with demonstrations of the textile making process. During the demo, a weaver began by separating seeds from raw cotton, beat the cotton fibers to soften them, spun them into yarn and dyed them in a turmeric bath. Using a back strap loom, she continued weaving a piece that was weeks in the process. The cooperative has a store with textiles made by the women, including clothes, bags, home decor and blankets. Each piece has a tag with a photo and name of the woman who made it, the type of cotton it’s made from, the dyes that were used and how long the item took to make.

Mundo de Abejas Mayas.  A bee farm and honey producer with an interactive garden home to hives of various species of stingless bees. We visited and tasted over a dozen types of pure and infused honeys made from local ingredients. We bought a jar of crystallized honey spread to smear on toast and sweeten herbal tea. Their shop sells all types of bee products including candles, honeys, pollen, raw honey combs, royal jelly, bee venom, honey wine and soaps. Despite its name, the bee farm has nothing to do with Mayan culture. It’s focused on the sustainable harvesting of honey and preservations of bees endemic to Guatemala.

Asociación Q’omaneel.  A traditional medicinal garden commonly grown by Guatemalan women at home and used to make teas, soaps and oils to treat various ailments from stomach aches, joint pain, burns, stress, etc. We bought a tea that’s supposed to help with sleeping made from dried stems, leaves and flowers. We steeped it nightly and mixed it with our crystallized honey from Mundo de Abejas Mayas. 

Hiking & Lookouts 

Cerro Cristalino (Nariz del Rostro Maya).  A mountain peak popular for its sunrise hike overlooking Lake Atitlán, the surrounding volcanos and pueblos. Starting at 4am, we hiked with a local guide from the trail head to the summit. We passed through farmland with avocado trees, coffee plants, black beans and corn stalks, reaching the lookout 30 minutes later. Surprised to be the first to arrive, we took front row seats to watch the sunrise! 

The San Pedro, Tolimán and Atitlán Volcanos create a silhouette set against the dark blue and purple star covered sky. Below, twinkling lights from the pueblos dot the lake. Further in the distance the volcanic chain continues with Agua, Acatanango and Fuego. Every several minutes, we saw the red glow of lava erupting from Fuego and giant plumes of ash rising above it. First light appears with dim reds, turning to oranges, pinks and yellows as the sun rose above the volcanic landscape and reflected in calm the lake. As the sun rose, we were served coffee in clay mugs and conchas for breakfast. 

The tour included a round trip transfer from our hotel in San Juan to the trail head. We booked with Tours with Vick on Viator. 

Good to Know.  From San Juan, the mountain crest looks like the profile of a face looking upwards. It’s named after a beloved Mayan woman and local legend. Tourists commonly call the mountain, “The Indian’s Nose.” This is considered disrespectful to locals and best avoided. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Cafe Las Marias.  A tiny coffee roaster with a cafe on its second floor serving and bold brews of Guatemalan coffee prepared in various styles including drip, aeropress and Turkish. The cafe is semi-hidden in an alley. Once finding it, ring a bell to be let in. The intimate cafe only has two tables and boasts views of Cerro Cristalino. They offer full breakfasts and do occasional coffee roasting demonstrations but there’s no set schedule.

Jaque.  A second floor restaurant above a gallery with an outdoor patio overlooking Lake Atitlán and the San Pedro Volcano. The menu features a range of pizzas, seafood and vegetarian dishes. We ordered a Mojarra Frita (whole fried fish) and garlic shrimp with fresh made tortillas and two bottles of the local beer, Gallo.

Restaurante MayAchik’.  An eco hotel and restaurant on the outskirts of town with homemade vegetarian and vegan dishes. We ordered the Tacos de la Casa made with hibiscus flowers and Chapín, a local soup made from chile peppers, tomato and cilantro. Both were served with locally grown avocado and handmade tortillas. For dessert, we shared a plate of fried plantains covered in a spicy and chocolaty mole with a garnish of toasted sesame seeds.

Santa Catarina Palapó

A small pueblo known locally for its traditional handicrafts and patterned buildings painted in shades of blue. It’s lesser visited and nearly untouched by tourism allowing it to maintain a strong sense of authenticity. We followed a combination of cultural routes leading through town past various sights including viewpoints, museums and artisan shops. Similar to San Juan, many of the shops are women owned cooperatives used to keep the local traditions alive and to allow them to earn an independent livelihood. 

Proyecto Pintando Santa Catarina Palapó.  A small but fascinating cultural center dedicated to the town’s efforts of painting all of its buildings in a range of blue hues and patterns reflective of the local Mayan people. Blue represents the primary color of the local textiles and the symbols represent nature including birds, butterflies, fish, corn, the volcanos and lake. We bought a clay Christmas ornament painted to look like a local house. 

Casa Museo.  A simple museum dedicated to the town’s cultural history and way of life with four small exhibits. One discusses the history, traditions and legends of the communities in Santa Catarina. The second is a replica ancestral home adorned with artifacts, furnishing and personal belongings. The third is a mock Temascal, a traditional Mayan sauna and bath. The fourth is a Mayan betting game named Patolli. Filed down beans are used as dice and rolled to move a token twenty-some places forward before the other player. The museum has a rooftop restaurant and cafe with views of the town’s center, built up hillside and lake flanked by volcanos.

Iglesia Santa Catarina Palapó.  A small windowless church in the center of the pueblo with a white painted facade, wooden doors, clay tiled roof and motif of two lions holding up a blue circle. 

Centro Cultural Santa Catarina Palapó.  A small museum dedicated to the textiles of the community. It’s explains the history, colors and meaning behind the traditional textiles worn by the locals. Red colored textiles were the most traditional. Shades of blue later became popular. Today, it’s a mix of those colors and many others that represent the individual weavers own style. There is a textile shop on the second floor with women weaving on back strap looms.

Fábrica de Velas y Cerería Sajvin.  A traditional candle maker with various styles and colors of handmade candles. The shop owner explained the process of how the candles are dipped, colored and molded using bees wax and paraffin wax. We bought strings of pink and blue candles for 15Q each. 

San Pedro de Atitlán

San Pedro a larger pueblo at the base of the San Pedro Volcano. It’s locally known as backpacker destination and for its nightly party scene. The roads parallel to the lake are busting with expats, travelers, hostels, restaurants, cafes and bars making it a popular place to visit and stay. Further into the pueblo, we discovered the local side of town. We walked along the quiet winding streets listening to locals speaking Mayan and watched as they mixed mass to make tortillas. The pueblo is more Catholic than many of the others we visited. Simple murals of bible verses are contrasted by colorful ones depicting Mayan and indigenous culture. 

Tzunun' Ya'.  A museum dedicated to the history and people of San Pedro as well as Lake Atitlán’s geological formation and volcanic past. One of the most interesting parts of the exhibit was a black and white film from 1941 of life in the pueblo. Several aspects remained the same including women wearing traditional clothes and carrying objects on their heads as well as men fishing from small wooden boats and carrying heaps of firewood on their backs. 

San Pedro Playa Pública.  A public beach looking over the lake, skyline and volcano. It’s a simple beach popular with locals and backpackers. We came here to layout, listen to the waves and picnic. 

La Ventana del Lago.  An elevated lake view restaurant with seafood dishes and Guatemalan cuisine. It’s a little out of place for a backpacker’s town which inadvertently made it a quiet spot for a date night. We dined by candle light, ordering the Mojarra Frita (whole fried fish) and Caldo de Marriscos (seafood soup).

Backpacker Bars

• Sublime.  A large bar overlooking the lake with nightly events, daily happy hours, well made cocktails, local beers and simple but tasty dishes like vegetarian nachos. We ordered the watermelon mojito and pineapple sunrise. 

• 420 Reggae Bar.  A local bar with a backpackers vibe along the main road displaying a well curated wall of spirits used to make classic cocktails all for 25Q. 

• Shanti Shanti.  A restaurant and bar overlooking the lake. We stopped in for spiked fruit smoothies made with pineapple, muskmelon, watermelon, run and vodka.

San Pedro Volcano 

A 3,000 meter high conical shaped volcano covered in farmland and lush forest on the shores of Lake Atitlán beyond the pueblo of San Pedro. 

Hiking the Volcano 

A trail leads from the welcome center through farmland with crops of coffee, avocado, corn and squash. As we hiked up, farmers harvested firewood, carrying large bundles down on their backs. Beyond the farmland, the trail passed through forest, providing shade most of the route up. The path is well maintained, paved in occasional sections with cement stairs, wooden log steps and stacked rubber tires. The trail climbs steadily uphill with altitude markers every 100 meters and occasional points of interest along the way. 

Mirador Tz'unun Ya'.  A lookout over San Pedro La Laguna and Lake Atitlán at 2,173 meters. 

Area de Descanso.  A rest area and lookout with a tire swing overlooking the lake at about 2,300 meters. 

Arbol Anciano Quercus.  A fallen 400 year old tree at 2,600 meters.

Tronco de Arbol Aijlamam Gran Abuelo.  A sacred Mayan tree believed to be the reincarnation of a powerful Mayan wizard. It’s located around 2,750 meters.

Area de Acampar.  A campground with an graffitied wooden cabin and restroom at 2,867 meters. 

The Summit

After 2 hours 30 minutes of hiking, we reached the summit at an altitude of 3,000 meters. We walked the crater rim lined with moss covered trees to a rocky outcrop with views of the deep blue lake, its pueblos and the chain of volcanos. From above, boats looked like small dots as they crossed the lake leaving a rippled trail behind them. In the distance, Volcan de Fuego let out continual eruptions of smoke and ash high into the sky. We spent about an hour at the summit, eating our lunch and enjoying the views. 

Things to Know

• Hire a Guide.  We hired our guide, Vic, from the Cerro Cristalino (Nariz del Rostro Maya) Sunrise Hike. He organized transportation, safely guided us to/from the summit, shared stories about Mayan legends and info about the local nature and landscape Book his tour here!

• Timing.  We began hiking at 9am and reached the summit at 11:30am. It took us under 2 hours to hike down.

• Safety.  Having read the warnings about armed bandits online, we were apprehensive about going on the hike. Beforehand, we read recent reviews, spoke to others that had safely completed the hike and confirmed the current safety situation with our Airbnb host and guide. We only carried enough cash for the hike. We left our wedding rings, all but one cell phone and one credit/debit card at our hotel. 

• Popularity.  The San Pedro hike is not as others in Guatemala. We met about a dozen hikers at the summit, some solo and others in pairs. Along the route down, we passed a few groups, one led by two armed police officers. 

San Marcos 

San Marcos is very small pueblo with bohemian vibes, winding pedestrian walkways, a peaceful nature reserve and the best views of Lake Atitlán and the volcanos.

The Hippie Highway.  The narrow street leading from the ferry dock into town is locally called the “Hippie Highway.” The street is appropriately named for all of the health food cafes, fruit and vegetable farm stands, tins of smoldering incense, shops with bohemian style clothes, vendors selling feather and wire jewelry, long and dreaded hair expats, stick and poke tattoo shops, wellness studios with crystals healers, spiritual massages and yoga classes. 

Cherri Tzankujil Nature Reserve.  A peaceful nature reserve with trails leading to Mayan ceremonial altars, bathing areas and lookouts over the lake, volcanos and town. We spent an entire afternoon here, surrounded by breathtaking nature, hiking the trails, sunbathing and picnicking along the rocky cliffs and swimming in the cool refreshing water. From one of the overlooks, we watched as adrenaline seekers jumped from The Trampoline, a 12 meter jump into the lake below. 

Circles Cafe & Bakery.  A bakery and cafe with Guatemalan coffee, sourdough breads, rustic pastries, sandwiches and pizzas.

Mi Vida Bar.  A two floor open air bar with views of the lake and volcanos, local beers and classic cocktails.

Panajachel

Panajachel, also called Pana, is the most developed and commercial pueblo on Lake Atitlán. It’s home to multitudes of Guatemalan craft shops, cafes and lake front restaurants. It’s a branching off point and hub to reach the other pueblos around the lake. 

Calle Santander.  Panajachel’s main tourist street lined with shops and vendors selling all types of handmade leather goods, colorful woven textiles, beaded jewelry and hammocks. The road follows the lake front and leads further into the pueblo. Along the lake, restaurants share similar menus with views of it and the volcanos. Further in town, cafes serve Guatemalan coffee. Overhead, twinkle lights and banderas crisscross the street as tuk tuks and moto bikes zip by.

Guatemalan Cuisine 

• Chapín.  A local soup made from chile guajillo, tomato and cilantro served with avocado and tortilla.

• Pepián.  A very traditional Guatemalan stew made from a mixture of peppers, veggies, spices, seeds and meats.

• Corn Tortillas.  A common base or accompaniment to nearly every dish in Guatemala. The tortillas are often made fresh from yellow, white and sometimes blue corn masa. 

• Pupusas.  A corn masa arepa stuffed with various fillings like black bean and cheese. 

• Desayuno Typical.  A typical breakfast dish comprised of eggs, tortilla, refried beans, sliced avocado, cheese and fried plantains. 

• Mojarra Frita.  A whole fried white fish with a spiky spine found in the lakes, rivers and shores of Central America.

• Caldo de Marriscos.  A clay pot or bowl of with a base of spicy seafood broth and a range of fish, crustaceans and shellfish.  

• Choco Fruita.  Chocolate dipped fruits like banana, coconut, papaya and watermelon sold by street vendors. They’re popular in San Juan. 

Guatemalan Drinks 

• Ancestral Hot Chocolate.  A traditional Mayan method of making hot chocolate from pure cacao mixed with cinnamon and raw sugar then mixed with creamy milk.

• Guatemalan Coffee.  Guatemala is one of the most prosperous coffee producing regions in the Americas. Locally grown and roasted beans are brewed into a full bodied, rich and chocolaty flavored cups of coffee and espresso at cafes and homes around the country. 

• Gallo.  Guatemala’s national beer, recognizable by its green bottle and the logo of a rooster on its label. It has a class light beer flavor and is sold everywhere across the country. 

• Michelada.  A cocktail made from beer, tomato juice, lime and spices with a salted rim. They’re commonly made with Gallo and sold at bar carts by street vendors.  

• Quetzalteca.  A local spirt sold in small bottles with flavors like tamarind, hibiscus strawberry, pineapple, watermelon and mulberry. It’s often prepared at bars either ice, lime juice and tajin. 

• Zacapa.  Guatemala’s national rum. With our Priority Pass, we visited Casa del Ron, the brand’s lounge at the La Aurora International Airport. For free, we ordered two cocktails, the Zacapa Sour and Zacapa Express as well as a glass of Zacapa XO neat, a blend of 10-25 year aged rum.

Where to Stay 

Hotel Tijax.  We stayed at boutique hotel in San Juan de La Laguna with balcony views overlooking Lake Atitlán and the tin clad roofs of the pueblo. The rooms are decorated in local products including textiles, paintings, ceramics and candles. One of the best aspects of the hotel was the outdoor kitchen! It’s equipped with a wood burning comal, grill and traditional clay dish-ware. The space is decorated with a colorful tiled backsplash, basket lights and live edge dining table. The owners provide clean drinking water and freshly brewed coffee from Cafe Las Marias up the street. Book on Airbnb.

Getting to Lago Atitlán  

We hired a transfer ahead of time from the airport in Guatemala City to bring us to Panajachel. The trip took 4 hours due to traffic. We hired the same company to transfer us from San Juan back to the airport. The trip took 3 hours. We booked on Viator. 

Getting Around Lago Atitlán  

Public Ferries (Lanchas). Public ferries are an enjoyable way to sightsee and happen to be the most affordable method to visit towns along Lake Atitlán. Ferries operate from docks in town, starting at 6:30am until 5:30pm. They travel in a circuit around the lake stopping at most towns between Panajachal and San Pedro, including Santa Cruz, Jaibalito, Tsununa, San Marcos, San Pablo and San Juan. 

• Ferry Prices.  Tickets cost 15-25Q per person depending on the distance between towns. There is typically an authorized price chart at the ferry dock with the latest prices. Anything more than what’s listed is a scam. 

• Beware of Scammers.  People at the docks can be scammy telling you there are no public ferries to your destination and the only option is a private boat. This is not true if traveling between the hours of 6:30am to 5:30pm. Ignore them and keep asking around for the public ferry. 

• Good to Know.  Ferries don’t depart until there are at least a dozen passengers on board. We never waited longer than 15 minutes. The water gets increasingly bumpy and wavy in the afternoon due to wind.

Tuk-Tuks. Tuk-tuks are readily available to get around town at all hours. Prices typically cost between 5-10Q per person. Tuk-tuks can travel between towns but drop off on the edge of the next town. The price varies depending on the distance between towns. 

On Foot. If you’re okay walking uphill, most of the towns are easily walkable. It’s a great way to see the local culture, murals and views of the lake. 

Good to Know

• Fireworks.  Fireworks are regularly set off in all pueblos of Lake Atitlán, day and night. The echos sound lake a volcanic eruption! 

• Safety.  We felt safe in all of the cities we visited along Lake Atitlán and kept aware of our surroundings. We followed common recomendations like hiring a guide when hiking and didn’t walk between towns, especially at night. 

• Toilets.  Like most places in Central and South America, used toilet paper is thrown in the bin, not the toilet. 

• Drinking Water.  Tap water is unsafe to drink in Guatemala due to contamination. Stick to bottled or purified drinking water.

• Cash vs Card.  Most businesses only accept cash. Carry enough for the day. There is at least one ATM or currency exchange in all of the major towns around the lake. 

• Stray Dogs.  Stray dogs are common around the pueblos of Lake Atitlán. They’re very rarely aggressive but best left alone. 

Elsewhere in Guatemala 

Explore our guide on Antigua, Guatemala and The Mayan ruins of Tikal in our guide to San Ignacio, Belize.

For Next Time…

Having been to Guatemala three times, we’re certain to return! There are few things high on our list next time we visit this magical country 

• Flores. A colorful colonial island town on one of Guatemala’s mountainous lakes. We were teased seeing the city from above on a layover from Belize to Guatemala City. 

• Tikal Sunrise Hike.  An early morning hike in Tikal to watch the sunrise from the top of the famed pyramids. We saw photos of the colorful sunrise, layers of morning mist and dramatic ruins peak from jungleous canopy below.

• Chichicastenango.  Latin America’s largest outdoor market known for its handicrafts, textiles and jewelry. If we make it back to Lake Atitlán, we’ll take a day trip here from Panajachel

San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

San Miguel de Allende is a charming and historic pueblo famed for its unique architecture, vaquero lifestyle, desert landscapes and vineyards.  

A Historic Pueblo 

The town is best explored on foot. The stone paved streets exude warmth as painted buildings alternate in tones of tan, amber, orange, red and ochre. At night, street lanterns illuminate the city in an incandescent glow. Ornate Neo-gothic and Baroque style cathedrals with grand spires tower above rooftop terraces offering sunset views of the pueblo. Locals, tourists and expats are styled in silver jewelry, leather boots, cowboy hats and woolen ponchos sold by vendors at artisan markets and boutiques.

Despite its dry surroundings, it’s a verdant place with potted cacti, blossoming plants, sculpted trees and tall shrubs completing with the height of the cathedral spires. Church bells ring out regularly as mariachi bands perform in plazas adding music to the already lively ambience. Unsurprisingly, San Miguel de Allende is listed as one of Mexico’s Pueblos Magicos and recognized as a UNESCO Heritage Sight. 

Neighborhoods & Streets 

Zona Central.  The neighborhood at the city center with a high concentration of warmly painted historic buildings, monumental cathedrals, treelined plazas, artisan markets, boutique shops, hotels, restaurants and rooftop bars. It’s the ideal neighborhood to stay in and explore on foot while visiting San Miguel. 

Barrio de Guadalupe.  A residential neighborhood north of the city center with walls decorated in mosaics and murals of Mexican culture. We spent time wandering the open air gallery of streets admiring the works. Some of our favorites were mosaics of Frida Kahlo, Dia de los Muertos Catrinas, and a masked Lucha Libre wrestler. 

Call Aldama.  A photogenic street with historic and warmly painted buildings centered on the gothic spires and domes of Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel.

Callejon de Chorro.  A winding and hilly street surrounded by landscaped gardens, historic public laundries, stepped walkways and red painted colonial architecture in the oldest area of the city. It reminded us of Lombard Street in San Francisco. 

Sights 

La Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel.  A towering neo-gothic cathedral located in the city center with pointed spires and vaulted arches constructed from pink stone. It the Disney castle of cathedrals and beautiful to view both day and night.

Torre del Reloj.  A pink, orange and tan stone neo-gothic clock tower attached to the cathedral. 

El Jardín Allende.  A popular tree covered plaza in front of the cathedral with views of its pink spires and the adjacent clock tower. It has a lively and cultural atmosphere. Well dressed Mariachi bands walk through the plaza performing for visitors both day and night while Mojigangas, giant painted paper-mache puppets, walk around posing for photos. The sides of the plaza are flanked by buildings with ground floor restaurants and shops. 

El Mirador.  A hilltop lookout with views of the city center, cathedral spires, white domed roofs and desert landscape. We visited in the morning when the city was well lit however it’s also a popular sunset viewpoint.

Plaza de la Soledad.  A plaza in front of the Templo de Nuestra Señora de La Salud with sculpted trees and bushes. Vendors walk around selling sombreros and ice cream. 

Templo del Oratorio de San Felipe Neri.  A pink, orange and red stone cathedral with an ornate baroque style facade and multilevel bell tower. 

Templo de San Francisco.  A historic cathedral with an intricately carved stone facade and bell tower. Visitors gather in a beautiful park with sculpted trees and bushes in front. 

Templo de Nuestra Señora de La Salud.  A historic church with recessed stone facade capped with an inverted shell design. 

Parque Benito Juarez.  A quiet and peaceful city park with well landscaped gardens, lush tree covered walkways, small fountains and sculptures. 

Charco del Ingenio.  A dry and aired botanical garden with trails leading through the landscape past thorny bushes, cacti and maguey plants. The park is divided by a steep volcanic canyon and dam holding back a lake with different sections and sights speckled throughout. 

• The Canyon Trail.  A narrow trail following the canyon’s edge with views of its volcanic stone walls. Shout into it to hear your echo reverberate back. 

• The Birdwatching Trail.  A trail following the reservoir home to migratory and aquatic birds. 

• Sculpture Garden Trail.  A trail leading from the welcome center towards the western viewpoints with several sculptures along the way. 

• Regional Plant Trail.  A trail leading between the conservatory and welcome center with native plants and cacti. 

• The Western Viewpoints.  A series of overlooks along the western park trails with panoramic views of San Miguel de Allende, the canyon and Guanajuato Mountains. 

• Pollinator’s Garden.  A garden with hummingbirds and honey bees buzzing around, pollinating the budding and flowering flora. 

• Conservatory of Mexican Plants.  A glass building home to all types of prickly and thorny native plants and cacti. 

Markets 

Ignacio Ramirez Market.  A colorful market with aisles vendors selling fruits, vegetables, flowers, piñatas and miscellaneous dry goods like beans, corn husks and tostadas. A section with restaurants serves affordable Mexican classics like quesadillas, gorditas, molletes and flautas. We ordered lunch from Los Farolitos spending less than 200 pesos.

Mercado de Artesanías.  An artisanal market attached to Ignacio Ramirez with locally made leather goods, textiles, pottery and jewelry. Vendors sell everything from cowboy boots and hats, leather shoes and belts, silver and beaded jewelry, woven rugs and blankets, hand embroidered pillows and tortilla holders and traditional clay pottery like cafe de olla mugs and cazuelas. 

Calle Lucas Balderas.  A covered street extending from the Mercado de Artesanías with dozens of silver and craft vendors selling jewelry, sculptures, tableware, paintings and textiles. Like with all markets, prices are negotiable, especially if paying in cash. We bought a minimal silver bangle and ring for less than 40 USD. 

Fabrica La Aurora.  A former textile factory converted into a high end artisan market and showroom with furniture vendors, art galleries, home good stores, antiques and restaurants. 

Places to Eat & Drink

The Rooftop at Selina.  A rooftop restaurant and bar with sunset views overlooking the warmly painted buildings and landscape stretching beyond San Miguel. We sipped on cocktails at the bar while the sun set and murmurations of migratory birds flew across the sky. 

Don Taco Tequila.  A vegan taqueria with a wide range of vegan meat, mushroom and veggie tacos prepared on house made tortilla and paired with homemade salsas ranging in flavor and spiciness. Their bar menu boasts a short list of cocktails wider range of sipping tequilas and mezcals. Try the tacos Pastor, Don Chicharo, Chicharrito and Bigotes for an array of savory flavors.

San Telmo Gastro Pub.  A restaurant and bar with a classic yet eclectic interior and stage with nightly singers. We stopped in for a glass of wine while listening to the musicians perform. 

Panio Bakery.  A Mexican and French style bakery with conchas, croissants, donuts, baguettes and honey bread. 

Cerveceria Allende.  A craft brewery and tap room with house brewed beers. We tried the Golden Ale, an easy drinking and flavorful classic beer as well as the Brown Ale, a thicker and slightly sweet beer.

La Michoacana del Portón.  A ice cream and peleta shop with dozens of water and cream based flavors. We stopped in while walking across town, ordering guava and horchata peletas.

Places to Shop

Other than the artisan markets, the central neighborhood has numerous shops and boutiques with locally made goods. We visited multiple shops and have a few favorites. 

Artesanías Alcatráz Loka.  A boutique with traditional and contemporary style leather goods including boots, jackets, bags and belts. I found a pair of cowboy boots made from black leather and white leather stars. Unfortunately it wasn’t available in my size. 

Casilda Mut.  A small boutique with cowboy hats, leather jackets and silver accessories. I found a cropped and studded leather jacket that fit perfectly but the price was well out of reach.

Maison Manhes.  A tiny shop with locally made items and art including natural wool ponchos, colorful woven baskets and bags and hand painted ceramic dishes. 

Where to Stay

Casa Lool Beh.  A beautiful guest house with private rooms and shared commons spaces like a cozy rooftop terrace, kitchen and living room lounge. It’s centrally located, one street away from Jardín Allende. At the same time, it’s very hidden. We entered through, La Cabra Iluminada, a ground floor cafe with a lush courtyard and took the stairs to reach our room. 

Good to Know

Safety.  The city is extremely safe both day and night with minimal security concerns or recent issues. 

Senior Travel.  San Miguel de Allende is a popular destination for senior citizens and retired expats due to its slower pace, walkable streets, temperate climate and affordable costs of living compared to the United States.

Costs.  Though costs of living are much less than in the US, the city is more expensive destination than other cities in Mexico. 

Cash vs Card.  Most businesses accept cash or card when paying however there is often a cash discount. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption. It’s best to drink filtered or bottled water. 

Getting Here and Around

Getting Here by Bus.  We took an ETN Bus round trip from Mexico City. Ticket prices are significantly costlier than other bus companies like ADO. The bus however is comfortable and reliable with assigned seats, on board restrooms and charging ports for devices. 

Getting Around on Foot.  The city is best explored and admired on foot. Its historic neighborhoods are easily walkable. 

Getting Around by Taxi or Uber.  Both taxis and Ubers are readily available and affordable methods for getting around the city, with prices costing 50-100 pesos in town. 

For Next Time…

We only spent a couple of days in San Miguel de Allende but fell in love with this charming city, its desert landscapes and Vaquero style boutiques. We’re sure to return and have a list of things to do, see and buy when we do. 

Vaquero Boutiques.  We window shopped at several boutiques around San Miguel’s center. We tried on boots, jackets, poncho and cowboy hats and have a few items in mind to purchase when we return. 

Vineyard Tours.  The countryside of San Miguel de Allende is one of Mexico’s largest wine producing regions with vineyards and winemakers. While here we were able to sample a couple wines.

• Hacienda San Miguel.  A vineyard outside of the city with bottles labeled in Mexican banderas. We tried their mid bodied red blend made from Shiraz, Tempranillo and Cabernet. 

• Casa Madero.  Though not near San Miguel, it’s the oldest vineyard in the Americas, dating back to 1597. We tried their Merlot, a full bodied and flavorful red wine. 

Horseback Riding.  Various companies offer horseback riding tours ranging around the city and countryside ranging from half day to overnight. Short on time, we weren’t able to gallop across the desert landscape into the sunset but are keeping a couple of well reviewed providers in mind for next time, San Miguel Parque de Aventuras and Coyote Canyon Tour. 

Plaza de Toros San Miguel de Allende.  A coliseum in the historic center used for rodeos, bull flighting and Mexican opera.  Though we don’t agree with bullfighting, seeing a rodeo or opera would be a special experience.

Cañada de la Virgen.  A nature preserve and archeological sight with Otomi pyramids and ruins located about 20 minutes by car form the city center. 

Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca

Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca

Puerto Escondido is a tropical surf town on Oaxaca’s Pacific coast. Relaxing days on palm lined beaches make way to lively evenings along sandy streets.

A Tropical Escape 

There are few better things than the sand between our toes and salt in our hair. We sat on the beach for three days, sunbathing, surfing, drinking tropical cocktails, eating seafood tacos and getting tattoos.  

La Punta

La Punta is neighborhood on the far eastern end of Playa Zicaleta. It’s popular with surfers, digital nomads, expats and young travelers. Under the bamboo and palm thatched buildings are shops selling beach attire, tropical jewelry and surf boards. Coffee shops, taquerias and cocktail bars line the neighborhood’s sand covered streets and dirt roads. Posters advertising nightly parties are displayed at hostels and tattoo parlors.

Beaches 

Playa Zicaleta.  A long tan sand beach stretching across a large expanse of Puerto Escondido’s shoreline. 

Playa Punta.  The most eastern section of Playa Zicaleta. The beach is a surfers paradise with lessons, board rentals and surfers riding waves from first light until sunset. Tanned and tattooed beach goers relax under umbrellas, walk along the shore and frolic in the ocean waves. Beachfront restaurants rent umbrellas and lounges, serve seafood dishes, tropical cocktails and inexpensive local beers. It’s a popular spot to watch the sunset over the ocean. We were even lucky enough to withness the green flash as the last of the sun dipped below the horizon. 

Things to Do 

Lounge on the Beach.  Visit Punta Puerto on Puntas Beach, an ocean front restaurant and bar with rentable sun lounges and umbrellas. At the time, prices cost 200 pesos for a lounge and umbrella for the full day with no minimum spend. This was significantly less than any of the other spots nearby. Service and drinks were great, the food was a little bland but for the price, it was absolutely worth it.

Take a Surf Lesson.  Puerto Escondido is a surfer’s haven with plenty of waves for beginners to experts. I booked a two hour group lesson with Silva Surf School, meeting the instructors at 7am and catching the morning’s first waves as the sun was rising. The instructors were very helpful providing a push to catch waves and pointers on how to “pop up,” balance on the board, ride and safely fall off. They provided a 9ft fiberglass surfboard that glided through the water with plenty stability, making it easy to catch every 3 to 5 foot wave that came in. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Armonía Café.  A small cafe with smoothie bowls, juices and strong coffees. We stopped in after surfing ordering the açaí bowl, made with mixed berries and banana as well as the spirulina bowl, made with greens and banana. 

La Punta Restaurant & Bar.  A beachfront restaurant and bar with sun lounges and cold Mexican beers. 

La Ola Taquería.  A taqueria along a narrow and sandy alleyway leading to the beach with a vast menu of seafood tacos and dishes. We ordered multiple dishes a la carte including the coconut shrimp tacos, fish tacos, tamarind ceviche and octopus tostada! 

Fish Shack La Punta.  A seafood shack preparing fish tacos, baskets and sandwiches. It’s the perfect lunch spot after spending time on the beach! Come for their fried fish sandwich or shrimp po’boy paired with a Mexican beer. 

Helados Palma Negra.  A shop serving tropical flavored ice cream and paletas. Try the mango passion fruit, mango tajin or chocolate coconut. 

Terraza Los Costenos.  A cozy oceanfront terrace nestled between the swaying fronds of verdant palm trees with tiki, tropical and mezcal cocktails. Try the Tropical, a mezcal, rum and passion fruit cocktail or the Tiki Taka, a floral gin and strawberry cocktail. 

Bikini Cocktail Bar.  A tropical beach shack style bar with bamboo walls, wooden swings for seats and Mexican inspired tiki cocktails. We quickly became regulars here, sampling half the menu. Try the Boo Loo, a mezcal, passion fruit and pineapple cocktail or the Elderfower Tiki, a mezcal, st germain and kombucha cocktail. 

Juana Mezcala.  A mezcal cocktail bar with shareable bites and nightly live music. To drink, try the Hibiscus Mezcalita or Santa Juana made with mezcal, chartreuse and hoja santa. To share, order the grilled pineapple and shrimp skewers cooked in mezcal or jalapeño poppers. 

Where to Stay

Punta Bungalows.  A boutique hostel a few streets from the beach with private rooms, a large shared kitchen, an outdoor pool, comfy hammocks and a tropical garden. We loved waking up to scent of the plumeria trees, wearing fallen flowers above our each morning. Reserve on Airbnb. 

Getting to Puerto Escondido 

We took an ADO Bus from Oaxaca City to Puerto Escondido. The ride took 3 hours through mountain roads and tunnels. The closer to the coast, the more verdant the landscape became and winding the roads twisted. 

Elsewhere in Oaxaca 

Explore our full guide on Oaxaca, Mexico to read about its cuisine, artisan goods, ancient ruins, colonial pueblos and scenic landscapes.

For Next Time…

Explore El Centro.  We made the most of our time in the Puntas neighborhood. When we return, we plan to explore the beaches, markets, restaurants, cafes and bars of the city’s central neighborhood. 

Playa Zipolote.  Mexico’s only official nude beach located an hour and a half down the coast. It’s popular for swimming, surfing and sunbathing. Unlike most nude beaches, it has beachfront bars and restaurants. 

Playa Del Amor.  A queer friendly nude beach at the east end of Zipolote Beach. We can’t wait to return to Oaxaca’s coast for this alone. 

Oaxaca, Mexico

Oaxaca, Mexico

Oaxaca is the cultural hub of Mexico famed for its cuisine, artisan goods, ancient ruins, colonial pueblos and scenic landscapes. Across the region, traditional dishes are prepared by street food vendors, in restaurants and at markets. Generations of artisan makers produce patterned textiles, vibrant alebrijes, wood block prints, leather goods and traditional ceramics. Archeological sights and museums display ruins and artifacts from the Zapotec civilization. The mountainous desert landscape is covered in fields of maguey plants and Mezcal distilleries. Tropical beaches and surf towns line its Pacific coast. At its center, an energetic and colorful capital city is where the best of everything in Oaxaca comes together. We spent over a week here, meeting up with friends and exploring the region together. 

Bienvenidos a la Oaxaca! 

We arrived after midnight in Oaxaca. On our first morning, we were woken up by the sounds of the Tamale Lady listing off her tamales over a loud speaker. “Tamales de amarillo, tamales de raja, tamales de salsa verde, tamales de pollo, tamales de cebolla, tamales de elote, tamales de chipilín.” The list went on and on! We were in Oaxaca! 

Oaxaca de Juarez

Oaxaca de Juarez is the metropolitan center of Oaxaca. Its cobblestone streets are lined with historic colonial buildings, draped with colorful Mexican banderas and decorated with street art and murals. Around town, the vibrant culture is experienced through cuisine and artistry. Local dishes are served at Oaxacan style restaurants, food markets and from street carts. Artisan goods produced in pueblos across the region are sold in shops and displayed in galleries and museums.

Barrios de Oaxaca

Centro Historico.  The historic center of Oaxaca is an architectural gem home to numerous cultural sights, markets, hotels, artisan shops, restaurants and cafes. Its photogenic streets are a sight to wander. Adobe facades are painted in a spectrum of vibrant hues and large murals. Ornate stone buildings and cathedrals overlook lush plazas. Flowering trees and potted cacti rest on rooftop ledges and decorate courtyards. 

Barrio de Jalatlaco.  A small and invitingly youthful barrio with indie vibes, print studios, thrift shops, used book store, hostels, digital nomad friendly cafes and mezcal bars. Much like the city center, the cobblestone streets are decorated with strings of colorful banderas and vibrantly painted buildings. Paper graffiti and murals depicting cultural scenes and traditions like dancing, piñatas and Dia de Los Muertos celebrations cover walls.

Plazas & Squares 

El Llano.  A large plaza with fountains, walkways and gardens with cacti, palms and yellow flowering trees. The perimeter is lined with food carts selling agua frescas, griddled hamburgers, candies, pan dulces, coffee and tortas. We ordered iced coffees and cococada, essentially a hay stack of sweetened and baked coconut. We wandered around, people watched and posed in a photo booth. 

Plaza de la Danza.  A plaza dedicated to restaurants serving dozens of flavors of Nieves, A creamy and icy frozen treat similar to a sherbet. Visiting with a group of friends, we ordered a range of scoops combining several regional flavors like mamay (creamy fruit), elote (sweet corn), leche quemada (burnt milk), tuna (prickly pear), tequila and mezcal. 

Museums & Sights

Museum of Cultures of Oaxaca.  A former convent converted into a cultural museum built from Cantera, Oaxaca’s iconic green tinted volcanic stone. The museum houses artifacts from Monte Albán including ceramics, stone stelas and most notably, the Mixtec treasures once buried in Tomb 7 at the ruins. The tomb’s treasures include intricate gold masks, beaded jewelry made from a range of precious materials, elaborate ceramic figures, intricately carved bones and most notably, a skull with cranial deformations decorated in a fine mosaic of turquoise. Other exhibits include a historic library, artifacts from the colonial period and of Oaxacan artists. 

Catedral Metropolitana.  A nearly 500 year old cathedral with symmetrical bell towers and a baroque style facade carved from stone blocks. 

Museo Textile de Oaxaca.  A small museum with textiles from the Oaxaca and across Central America featuring traditional designs and contemporary pieces. It’s free to enter. 

Markets 

Mercado Benito Juarez.  A vast market with all manner of vendors selling fruits and vegetables, meats, seafood, mounds of mole pastes, bottles of mezcals, Oaxacan cheese, corn tostadas, dried chile peppers, barrels of spiced chapulenes (grass hoppers), fresh cut flowers and handmade items. We shopped here for groceries, snacks and mezcal. 

Mercado 20 de Noviembre.  A large food market with aisles of vendors selling breads, traditional Oaxacan dishes and grilled meats. The intoxicating smell of freshly baked breads wafts from dozens of panaderías selling Pan de Yema, Mollettes de Panela, Pan Amarillo and various Pan Dulces. From kitchens within the maze of restaurant stands, cooks shout out their menu offerings, typically including Oaxacan staples like tlayudas, mole y pollo and chiles rellenos. Wafts of heat, smoke and the sizzling smell of grilled meats and sausages radiates from Pasillo de Humo, a passageway with coal and wooded fired grill stations. We ate here for breakfast and lunch visiting two restaurant stands. 

• Fonda Lupita for tlayudas and pan de yema served with a mug of cafe de olla. 

• La Abulita for tlayudas, horchata and freshly squeezed orange juice. We shared a vegetarian tlayuda prepared with a large cracker thin tortilla and covered in puréed black beans, bright orange squash flowers, Oaxacan cheese, lettuce, tomato and avocado. 

Monte Alban

Monte Alban is an ancient Zapotec hilltop acropolis with stepped pyramids, ball courts, astronomical temples, grand plazas, platforms, palaces and tombs. We spent four hours exploring the ruins, reading the plaques and contemplating life during the ancient times of the Zapotec.

Galería de Los Danzantes (Gallery of The Dancers).  A stone wall adorned with over a dozen carvings of castrated male figures depicting a blood sacrifice or fertility ritual. 

Plataforma Sur (South Platform).  The tallest platform and pyramid of the entire acropolis located at its most southern point. 

Edificio 1 (Building 1).  The only building of the entire acropolis that does not align with the cardinal points. It is thought to have been used as an astronomical observatory by Zapotec persists. It’s adorned with a series of conquest stones depicting Zapotec battles and victory’s 

Platforma Norte (North Platform).  The largest platform of the entire acropolis with several well preserved pyramids buildings and structures featuring geometric designs and monumental stelas.  

El Patio Hundido (The Sunken Patio).  A prominent feature of the North Platform, a sunken patio with an alter at its center used for ceremonies and rituals. 

Juego de Pelota (Ball Court).  A large ball court with sloped stone sides and a goal marker on the floor of its center. Contrasted with Mayan ball courts, the Zapotec did not sacrifice players but used the game for religious celebrations and to settle disputes. 

Monte Alban Museum.  A museum with ornate stelas, well preserved ceramic pottery and human remains found in the tombs of Monte Alban. 

Getting Here.  We took a round trip shuttle from the Centro Historico with Lescas Co Tours. The ride took 20 minutes through the city and winding hillside. Pick up was every hour. 

Mezcal Tour 

Oaxaca is the birthplace of Mezcal, a smoky spirit distilled from the maguey plant. We toured two Palenques, distilleries where mezcal is produced and a maguey field where the plant is grown. 

Palenque de Rosaluna.  A small batch mezcal distillery where we saw, smelled and tasted every aspect of the mezcal production. As we toured the palenque, a truck load of harvested maguey cores, also called piñas, were being delivered. In an underground oven, roasting piñas filled the air with a smoky and sweet scent. An empty pit lined with lava rocks waited to be used next to it. We tasted the raw bitter piña and molasses like roasted piña for comparison. Inside the fermentation warehouse, the smoky and sweet scents intensified. A large pile of roasted piña were being chopped up and pressed into pulp by a stone wheel. The pulp was transferred to huge pine barrels where it fermented before being pressed and distilled. We tasted mezcal dripping straight from the distilling copper drums and finally terracotta shot glasses of the bottled spirit. 

Palenque Mal de Amor.  A historic mezcal distillery that follows traditional production methods. Underground ovens are used to roast the cores of the maguey. Horses pull large stone wheels to grind the roasted maguey into pulp. Pine barrels are used to ferment the pulp. Wood burning ovens are used to heat and distill the pressed pulp into mezcal. Brands like Illegal Mezcal, Mal de Amor and Ve Lua are produced here. We tasted over a dozen types of mezcal in fluted glasses repurposed from prayer candles. Flavors were always smoky with sometimes sweet, spicy and even funky notes. 

Maguey Fields.  The Oaxacan landscape is covered in fields of maguey plants used to produce Mezcal. Under a cloudless blue sky, we visited one to learn about the agricultural and harvesting process. Machete in hand and several mezcals in, we practiced chopping off blades from the maguey before sipping on mezcal poured down one of the plants severed arms. 

Hierve de Agua 

Hierve el Agua is a “petrified waterfall” formed over thousands of years by mineral rich cold springs. As water flows down the mountainside, it deposits calcite, creating white rippled terraces, natural pools and stunning white rock formations that look like a frozen waterfalls. Trails lead to cliff edge swimming pools, waterfall overlooks and small geysers with bubbling springs of cool salty water. It’s one of one two petrified waterfalls in the world. 

Vendors.  There is a path with vendors selling coconuts, swimsuits, sweaters, Oaxacan hot chocolate and Mexican dishes between the parking lot and trail head. For lunch, we ordered tacos, quesadillas, memelas and hot chocolates cooked over a wood burning stove. 

Pro Tip.  It gets very cold and windy in the late afternoon. Bring layers to keep warm. 

Getting to Hierve el Agua

Getting to Hierve el Agua is an adventure! We took a series of colecticos here and back from Oaxaca City. 

Step 1 - Oaxaca to Mitla. Hire a colectivo from Oaxaca City to Mitla. Colectivos wait at the corner in front of the Eduardo Vasconcelos Stadium. Colectivos are the burgundy colored shared taxis with a white side strip. It should cost no more than 500 pesos total (less per person). The ride takes under an hour to reach Mitla.

Step 2 - Mitla. In Mitla, walk down the main road, Avenida Internacional, until finding the “colectivo trucks” to Hierve el Agua. Trucks leave every 30 minutes for 900 pesos total. Trucks typically leave with a minimum of 12 people, meaning the cost per person is at least 75 pesos. It costs more per person if less than 12 people. 

Step 3 - Mitla to Hierve el Agua. Hop in the back to the covered truck and ride over an hour through the mountain roads to reach Hierve el Agua. There is a 15 peso toll per person when leaving Mitla. 

Step 4 - Getting Back to Oaxaca City. The last truck from Hierve el Agua to Mitla leaves at 6pm. Ask the driver to be dropped off at the bus station where colectivos wait. Hire a colectivo to Tule for 200 - 300 pesos total or back to Oaxaca City Centro for 500 pesos. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Catrina de Alcalá.  A hotel restaurant in an atrium flanked by stone columns with large colorful piñatas decorating the space. The restaurant serves traditional Oaxacan breakfasts, coffee and conches. We ordered spicy eggs dishes including Huevos a la Oaxaqueña Molcajete y Quesillo Gratinado and Chilaquiles en Salsa de Molcajete con Huevos. 

Cafe Brújula.  A cafe with locations around the Centro Historico brewing extremely strong coffees, espressos and cold brews. It’s the perfect spot to get a caffeine kick and cool down from the mid afternoon heat. Order one with a shot of mezcal! 

Santo de Mi Devocion.  A moody mezcal cocktail bar with a blackened interior and skull decor. The mixologists shake and stir Oaxacan mezcals with regional ingredients like hibiscus, passion fruit, ancho reyes, tamarind, agave honey, pineapple and chile serrano. 

Armadillo Negro.  A cocktail bar and restaurant with tapas style Oaxacan dishes, mezcal cocktails and live music in an outdoor patio. 

Donas y Churros El Vega.  The best churros in all of Oaxaca! The sweet and sugary smell lured us in from down the street to their display of stacked churros, glazed donuts and cream filled pastries. 20 pesos buys a paper bag with four churros, either covered in sugar, dipped in chocolate or mixed. 

Chocolate Mayordomo.  An incredibly popular Oaxacan cafe chain known for their chocolatey drinks. Recommended by multiple locals, we ordered the Choco Mio, a cold chocolate milk spiced with cinnamon and vanilla. It pairs well with a fresh baked concha from their bakery. 

Levadura de Olla Restaurante.  A Michelin starred restaurant serving traditional, ceremonial and contemporary Oaxacan cuisine. All dishes are prepared with seasonal ingredients and served on locally made clay pottery. Try the guacamole topped with chapuline, creamy corn soup garnished with squash flowers and Oaxacan tomato salad.

Mundo Ceiba AC.  A late night restaurant, bar and bike rental shop with inexpensive meals, beers and mezcals. Come for the vegetarian burritos and tlyudas.

Vaca Marina.  A high end seafood and beef restaurant with a rooftop terrace and views of the Templo de Santo Domingo. We came here for a glass of Mexican wine at golden hour, watching the sunset and illuminate the cathedral. 

Con Vista Al Mar.  Affordable and authentic Mexican tacos, snacks, beers and mezcals. We stopped in for an afternoon happy hour, ordering doubles of mezcal, guacamole and calamari. 

Oaxacan Cuisine 

Oaxaca is the gastronomic hub of Mexico home to many of the counties most iconic and traditional dishes and drinks. We tried as many as possible while here to taste them in their most authentic form.

• Tejate.  A traditional Oaxacan chocolate drink made from the fats and flower of the cacao plant.

• Enmoladas.  Any type of taco served or covered with mole sauce. 

• Cocoa Caliente.  Spiced traditional hot chocolate drink made with cocoa, cinnamon, sugar and milk. It’s often mixed with a wooden spindle called a Molinillo. 

• Tomato Salad.  A salad made from sliced tomatoes, tomatillos, onions, radish, cilantro and lime.  

• Tlayudas.  Large grilled crunchy tortillas topped with ingredients like beans, avocado, tomato and cheese.

• Tamales.  Warm packets of steamed and cooked masa stuffed with any number of fillings wrapped in dried corn husks and often served with a spicy chile sauce or mole.

• Atole.  A hot chocolaty and warm spiced drink thickened by rice flower. 

• Chipilín.  A Central American herb with a flavor similar to spinach. 

• Chapulines.  A local delicacy, roasted grasshoppers often cooked with spices or chile lime. They have a tangy and grassy flavor. The larger ones are crunchy snacks while the smaller ones are perfect for garnishing all types of dishes. They’re sold size by size and flavor in barrels at the markets and by street food vendors. 

• Mole.  A savory and spicy sauce used to envelop countless Oaxacan style dishes. It comes in multiple varieties, made from nearly two dozen ingredients, including dried chile peppers, warm spices, nuts, seeds, berries, day old tortillas, chocolate and typically lard. It’s sold as a paste or powder in mounds at the local markets. 

• Tacos Dorados (Taquitos).  Rolled tortillas filled with cheese, meats or veggies and deep fried. 

• Molotes (Empanadas).  Half circular corn masa pockets often filled with cheese, meats or veggies and deep fried.

• Memelas.  A thick ovular tortilla grilled on comal topped with beans and cheese.

• Tacos.  Corn tortillas folded in half with meats, beans, cacti, insects, veggies, cheese and spicy sauces. 

• Tetelas.  Triangular folded tortillas filled with beans and cheese. 

• Quesillo.  A stringy Oaxacan cheese with a savory and salty flavor. 

• Tortilla Soup.  A tomato soup blended with chips or tortillas to give it a think and creamy texture.

• Mamey.  A brown tropical fruit that looks like a large kiwi. Inside it has the texture of an avocado and flavor of strawberry ice cream. 

“Buen Provecho,” a kind way of telling somewhere to enjoy their meal. It’s often said when passing by someone who is eating or preparing food. It’s commonly said to your neighbor at a restaurant when their food arrives or once you finish dining. 

Places to Stay

Oaxaca Apartment.  We stayed in a cute apartment about 20 minutes on foot from the city center. It was the perfect spot with a comfy bed, small kitchen, spacious bathroom and rooftop terrace. We shared the space with a group of friends, cooking Oaxacan style food and enjoying it together on the roof! Book on Airbnb. 

Hotel Azucenas.  A bed and breakfast in the Centro Historico with comfy rooms surrounding a small courtyard and fountain. Breakfast is served on the rooftop terrace lined with potted cacti and flowering trees. We stayed here our last night in Oaxaca City after returning from the coast. Book online or call for reservations. 

Getting Around

From the Airport.  Head to the “Sitio de Taxi” kiosk in the airport after baggage claim. From here, hire a taxi or collectivo (shared taxi van) to bring you into town. Prices vary by zone and it’s the easiest and way. Our collectivo dropped us off 3 blocks from our accommodation. 

On Foot.  The central neighborhood is very walkable on foot and the best way to explore the historic and colorful streets.

By Taxi.  Yellow cabs. Negotiate the fare before getting in and confirm the cost is not per person. We found most cab drivers to be very honest. 

By Collectivo.  Shared taxis or burgundy cabs with a white stripe. Can also double as taxis and are often cheaper, especially for longer distances.

Elsewhere in Oaxaca 

Explore our guide on Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, a tropical beach town and surfer’s destination along the pacific coast of Oaxaca.

For Next Time…

Mitla.  The religious center of the Zapotecs and second most important archeological site in Oaxaca. It was a sacred burial sight and is famous for its unique mosaic patterns not seen in any other part of Mexico. Wrap your arms around column, tells you how much life you have left. 

Yagul.  An archeological sights with courtyards, tombs and ball courts. 

Prehistoric Caves of Yagul and Mitla.  A cave with paintings dating back 12,000 years. 

Teotitlán del Valle.  A town known for weaving intricate and colorful textiles made from natural dyes.  Shop at the market for rugs, table runners, blankets and clothes. 

San Martin Tilcajete. A town outside of Oaxaca known for its Alebrijes and the inspiration for Coco. 

Day of the Dead in Mexico City

Dia de los Muertos

Dia de los Muertos is one of Mexican culture’s most important holidays and traditions. It is a day to remember those that have died and to celebrate life. The holiday is officially celebrated on November 1st with a week of festivities leading up to it including parades, ofrendas, markets, food and decorations. 

Elements of Dia de los Muertos 

Multitudes of symbols and decoration make up many elements of Dia de los Muertos. Many of which are symbolic of the joy of life, life after death and honoring the deceased. 

Alebrijes.  Ornately designed and colorfully painted representations of animals and mythical creatures that act as spirit guides to the dead. They’re seen all across Mexico, especially around Day of the Dead. 

Papel Picado.  Stings of colorful paper flags with beautiful and lively images of skulls, skeletons, marigolds cut out of them. They’re a common sight, often displayed in restaurants and above ofrendas. 

Calaveras.  Colorfully painted smiling skulls intended to laugh at death. People’s faces are commonly painted as Calaveras during the Dia de los Muertos festivals and parades. 

Cempasuchil.  The Aztec word for merigold. These orange flowers and their petals decorate ofrendas, homes and public spaces during Day of the Dead.

Ofrendas.  Alters to honor the dead decorated with a photo of the dead surrounded by Cempasuchil, candles, paper marché skeletons, painted sugar skulls, pan de muerto, wax models of food a bottled drink. Some ofrendas even go as far as to honor their lost pets. Ofrendas range in size from small ones at people’s homes to large ones in public squares. The most notable of which is the Mega Ofrenda, Mexico City’s largest ofrenda located in Zocalo Square. It consists of 32 ofrendas, one for each state in Mexico, flanked by a Catrina dressed in the traditional clothes and colors of the state it represents. 

La Catrina.  The classic and elegantly styled skeleton costume typically featuring a dress and large sombrero. Catrinas are common costumes worn by people during the Dia de los Muertos festivals and parades.

Calacas.  Skeletal figures commonly seen during Day of the Dead. They’re a common costume by many, including us, to celebrate the parade day festivities. 

Pan de Muerto.  The sugar dusted dome of bread with two pieces of dough made to look like crossed bones. They’re made specifically by bakeries during Day of the Dead. 

Paseo de la Reforma 

Paseo de la Reforma, a long diagonal avenue that stretches across Mexico City. It is a hub for many of activities during Dia de los Muertos, most notably being the Parade. The median is planted with marigolds while the avenue is lined spectators, makeup artists painting faces, vendors selling street food, decorations, souvenirs, ofrendas and exhibits including: 

• Marigold Festival.  A tented section of the avenue With sculptures and structures decorated in different colored marigolds and vendors selling potted marigolds. 

• Mexicaneos Exhibition.  An exhibit of 50 large Calaveras displayed along the avenue.

• Alebrijes Exhibition.  An exhibit with hundreds of large and intricately designed Alebrijes displayed along the Paseo de la Reforma.

• Face Painting.  On the parade day, there are makeup artists  set up along the parade route painting faces. You can choose from a book of designs or show the artist a design. Face painting typically costs $100 Pesos ($5) and takes 10-15min.

Zocalo Square

A massive public square in the Centro Historico and hub for Mexico City’s Day of the Dead festivities. The square is decorated in towering catrinas and ofrendas each representing  a different state of Mexico. It’s the sight of many street food vendors and performances including the parade day’s “Grand Closing Ceremony.” 

The Parade

The parade is one of the largest public festivities in Mexico City leading up to Dia de los Muertos. It travels across the city ending with a grand closing ceremony in the historic center. Over a million spectators from all over Mexico and the world line the streets to celebrate. Many people arrive in costume while others get their faces painted by artists set up along the route.

The parade includes floats with giant skeletons, others dedicated to Frida Kahlo and alebrijes. There were marching bands dressed in the colors of the Mexican flag, dancers dressed as Catrinas, monarch butterflies and La Llorona as well as performers in Aztec ceremonial outfits. 

The Parade Route 

The parade traveled down Paseo de La Reforma starting from the Estela de Luz at the corner of Bosque de Chapultepec to Avenida Hildago passing Alameda Central and onto Avenida Cinco de Mayo before ending in Zócalo Square. 

The parade is a relatively new addition to the Dia de los Muertos celebrations. The official route, date and time were only announced two weeks before the celebrations took place. We had to monitor Mexico City’s government website to stay up-to-date with the Official Announcements. 

Where to Watch the Parade 

From the Street.  Arrive a couple of hours early and claim a spot along the metal barricades lining the parade route for the best view. It gets very busy and difficult to see if you’re further into the crowd. 

From a Restaurant or Bar.  We watched the parade in Centró Historico at a bar called Pata Negra. Though we didn’t have a front row view, we were elevated above the crowds, had a seat to sit on, restroom to use and bar to order cocktails from. 

The Grand Closing Ceremony 

The grand closing ceremony ended in Zócalo Square with a concert featuring Ángela Aguilar where she performed La Llorona and two other songs as choreographed fireworks lit up the sky in front of the grand cathedral.

Festival de Coyocan 

One of the largest festivals held during two weeks leading up to Dia de los Muertos with celebrations and ofrendas. The streets surrounding the Centró de Coyoacan are lined with food vendors, mobile panaderias, handicraft booths, makeup artists, fair games and carnival rides. People from all over the neighborhood and city come here to celebrate.

Mercado Artisanal.  A two level market with stalls of vendors and artists selling alebrijes and calaveras as well as the Mexican handicrafts like textiles, books, leather goods and home decor.

Restaurants in Coyocan

Restaurant Ave Maria.  A higher end restaurant serving classic Mexican meals like enchiladas in mole, chile relleno with queso and tres leches served on traditional clay dishes 

Los Danzantes.  Oxacan style and traditional Mexican dishes, located in Coyoacán. 

Cabo Coyote.  A restaurant and bar in Centró Coyoacan. We came here for pre-dinner cocktails. 

Boicot Café Coyoacán.  A multilevel coffee shop in Coyoacan. We came here for an afternoon caffeine fix. 

Lecaroz.  A bakery specializing in Mexican pastry and breads. Visiting during Dia de los Muertos, they had an endless supply of Pan de Muerto in multiple sizes.

Mexican Street Food

Street food is popular all across Mexico City, especially around Day of the Dead. Look out for vendors selling gorditias, tlayudas, elotes, chapulines and churros. 

• Gordita.  Thick corn masa tortillas cooked until puffy, cut open and stuffed with filling. We ordered them from a street vendor on Paseo de la Reforma who stuffed them with beans, cheese and salsa. 

• Tlayuda.  A cracker thin tortilla topped with various garnishes. Our favorite was from a street vendor in Zocaló Square. It was spread with refried beans and topped with nopales, Oaxacan cheese and hot sauce. 

• Elote.  A grilled ear of sweet corn served on a stick. It’s covered in Mexican creama and garnished with cotija cheese, chili powder, and lime juice.  

• Chapulines.  Crispy fried grasshoppers. We had them on tacos, as a garnish to dishes, in bars mixed with peanuts and saw them sold in barrels as snacks with a squeeze of lime.

• Churros.  Fried sticks of ridged dough covered in cinnamon sugar and served with dulce de leche, chocolate sauce or sweeten condensed milk.

For Next Time…

Having visited Mexico City for Dia de los Muertos, we would love to return one day to celebrate the festivities in Oaxaca or some of the smaller pueblos around the country.

Mexico City, Mexico

A Mexican Metropolis

Mexico City is a sprawling metropolis where old meets new. It’s a vibrant cultural hub shaped by both contemporary Mexican influences and Mesoamerican heritage. Trendy barrios and historic centers are home to celebrated landmarks and world class museums. The city is a paradise for cuisine from street food vendors, bustling local markets and restaurants that celebrate Mexico’s rich culinary traditions.

La Roma 

La Roma was our home both times we visited in Mexico City. The neighborhood is lush with tree lined streets, tropical plants and blossoming flowers. Architecturally, it shares a mix of styles including Art Deco, Spanish Colonial and Contemporary. It’s a trendy area with boutique hotels, cute shops, cafes selling pan de dulce, mezcalerias and wide a range of restaurants. It’s home to millennials, American expats and dog owners. 

Parque Mexico.  An ovular shaped park in the heart of La Roma. Between the tall trees and Art Deco fountains, couples can be spotted romantically kissing on park benches, pet owners letting their well behaved dogs play freely and families enjoying long afternoons together. 

Avenida Amsterdam.  An ovular avenue offset from Parque Mexico. We spent our mornings walking along the central boulevard admiring the nature, architecture and dogs while window shopping and looking for cafes and restaurants to eat at. 

Mercado Medellin.  A traditional Mexican market in Roma with restaurants and aisles of vendors selling produce, seafood, meats, flowers, mole and more. We visited in the morning for breakfast and to shop for groceries. In the produce section, we bought nopales, squash flowers, poblanos, tomatillos, plantains, papaya and mangos. We walked through the seafood section admiring the fresh and exotic catches like red snapper, parrot fish and whole shark sitting on beds of ice. Further in, we watched butchers slice and tenderize hunks of beef as whole chickens laid along the counters and large pork rinds hung from racks. The edge of the market is a fragrant section with vibrant floral displays, colorful arrangements and potted succulents. 

La Abuelita.  A restaurant in Mercado Medellin with traditional Mexican breakfast dishes. We’ve come here twice on separate trips to Mexico City and tried their hurraches, huevos rancheros, chilaquiles and cafe de olla.

Centro Historico 

Centro Historico is the oldest neighborhood in Mexico City. We came here to sightsee along the narrow roads, visit landmarks and immerse ourselves in Mexican culture. 

Zocalo Square.  A massive public square in the Centro Historico and common place for cultural events, performances and street vendors. It’s flanked by the Catedral Metropolitana, Palacio Nacional and Grand Hotel. At its center is a large flag pole supporting the Mexican flag.

Catedral Metropolitana.  A historic cathedral at one end of the Zocalo Square built on top of and from the stones of Aztec temples and pyramids. Its facade has a symmetrical design with two grand bell towers, religious motifs and ornate patterns carved into the stone. An elaborately designed church with a terracotta tiled dome is attached to one side. Its interior is adorned with golden altars and sacristies, catholic statues, a massive organ system and sections with wooden pews. 

Palacio de Bellas Artes.  An art museum with an ornate stone exterior and gilded with a golden domed roof. Its interior is an Art Deco masterpiece with Aztec inspired ornaments, marble clad surfaces, geometric & organic elements. The museum features a multilevel atrium with frescos and murals, painted by Mexican artists. The most famous is El Hombre Controlador Del Universo, painted by Diego Rivera. A large fresco depicting the opposition of Capitalist and Socialist societies and the exploration of the planet. It was originally commissioned to grace the walls of Rockefeller Center in NYC but was destroyed due to its depiction of Lenin. Several temporary galleries branch off from the atrium with works created by Mexican artists.

Alameda Central.  The oldest public park in Mexico City just outside of the historic center along Paseo de la Reforma. There are often street performers and festivals held here.

Pyramid of Ehecatl.  An Aztec temple unearthed during the construction of Mexico City’s subway. The ruins are visible in the Pino Suarez station with an exhibit of its discovery and preservation. 

Gran Hotel Terraza.  A rooftop terrace at the grand hotel overlooking Zocolo Square, Catedral Metropolitana and Palacio Nacional. We watched the presidential guard lower the flag at sunset while sipping on mezcalitas. The hotel lobby is equally as impressive with one or the largest Tiffany glass ceilings in the world, creating a beautiful mosaic of colors.

Templo Mayor.  The ruins of Tenochtitlán, the Aztec city destroyed by the Spanish to build colonial Mexico City. A pathway leads through the ruins past several periods of its expansion to its center with a sunken pyramid, with two shrines on top, several ceremonial altars and a museum housing artifacts discovered in Templo Mayor. Plaques tell the story of its ceremonial purposes, expansion, destruction and preservation. 

• Temple Entrance.  A platform featuring statues of snakes with well preserved heads, still baring red paint. 

• The Shrine of Huitzilopochtli.  A shrine at the top of Templo Mayor dedicated to the Mexica god of war. The platform was believed to have been used for human sacrifices and funerals.

• The Shrine of Tláloc.  A shrine at the top of Templo Mayor dedicated to the Mexica god of water. A painted statue of Tláloc holding a bowl for offerings is preserved at the front of the shrine. 

• The House of Eagles.  A platform and temple used by elite Mexicas to perform ritual ceremonies. Protected under a pavilion, the ceremonial sight features stone “banquettes” with bases decorated in ornately carved and painted hieroglyphs.

• Altar Tzompantli.  A alter building with its sides covered in stone carved skull, dedicated to the god of death. 

• Red Temple.  A small temple with walls built from red stone circles and painted in various designs.

Templo Mayor Museum.  A museum housing artifacts discovered at Templo Mayor including carved stone reliefs, statues, the remains of human sacrifices, stone masks, obsidian blades and jewelry. Some of the most important artifacts on display are: 

• Monolith of Tlaltecuhtli.  A giant stone monolith of one of the Aztec’s most important gods. Viewed as source of life, the god was often appeased with blood sacrifices and human hearts. 

• Coyolxauhqui Stone.  A giant round monolith of a dismembered Aztec goddess. It’s one of the largest intact artifacts discovered. 

• Mictlantecuhtli God of Death.  A clay statue of the skeletal looking Aztec god, with its arms extended and claw like hands. 

• Eagle Warrior.  A clay statue of a warrior dressed like an eagle found in The House of Eagles.

• Turquoise Disk.  A small disk made with over 15,000 turquoise pieces depicting warriors.

Bosque de Chapultepec 

Bosque de Chapultepec is the city’s largest park and green space with forested areas and tree covered walkways. At is center is a lake with paddle and row boats, surrounded by vendors selling snacks, street style food, luchador masks and children’s toys. The park acts as a cultural hub with numerous museums and a historic hilltop castle. 

Museo de Arte Moderno.  A modernist and surrealist art museum with painting and pieces depicting Mexican heritage, culture and landscapes by artists like Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, Rufino Tamayo and José Clemente Orozco. One of Frida’s most famous works, Los Dos Fridas (The Two Fridas), is prominently on display. Some pieces, including Diego’s, Velorio o Dia de Muertos, are paired with a wooden orb containing an aroma of what’s pictured.

Museo Nacional de Antropología.  An anthropological museum dedicated to the ancient civilizations and cultures of Mexico. Exhibit halls are dedicated to each group including the Mexica, Aztec, Mayan, Zapotec and Teotihuacan. Artifacts of display include sacrificial stones, statues of gods, carved stelas, ball court rings, jade masks, golden breast plates, painted pottery, human remains and temple reproductions.  Some of the most important artifacts on display are: 

• The Aztec Sun Stone. One of the most famous and recognizable Aztec artifacts discovered, prominently displayed in the Mexica Hall. The complexly carved 12ft diameter stone monolith is often referred to as the “Aztec Calendar.” Baring elements of the calendar, it was used as a sacrificial alter for blood sacrifices.  

• Montezuma’s Headdress.  A replica of the Aztec ruler’s magnificent headdress made from turquoise, red and iridescent green feathers adorned with gold medallions. It’s located in the Mexica Hall. 

• Colossal Olmec Head.  One of the few colossal stone heads of an Olmec ruler discovered. It’s located in the Gulf Coast Hall.

• The Funerary Remains of Pakal The Great.  Referred to as one of the Mayan Empire’s greatest rulers. His funerary offerings including an elaborate mask, beaded jewelry and skeletal remains are displayed in a replica sarcophagus and jade. It’s located in the lower level of the Maya Hall.

• Tlaloc "Señor de la Lluvia."  A massive stone sculpture of the Aztec god of water surrounded by a fountain in outside of the museum.

Coyoacan 

Coyoacan is an authentic and historic neighborhood with a lively center, traditional markets, beautiful colonial era homes and many restaurants. It’s famous as the birthplace and home to Frida Kahlo. 

Centró de Coyoacan.  The central plaza and park is the heart of the neighborhood. It’s a place for all ages and generations to gather, where street performers put on a show, mariachis serenade diners and vendors sell handicrafts, street food, cotton candy and firework poppers. In the middle of the park is a fountain with coyotes playing, they are the symbol and namesake of the neighborhood. Flanking the center is a handicrafts market, a historic cathedral and many restaurants serving traditional Mexican cuisine. 

Mercado Artisanal.  A two level market with stalls of vendors and artists selling alebrijes, calaveras, textiles, books, leather goods and home decor. There are even a few stalls to get tattoos and piercings. 

Mercado San Juan.  A market, very similar to Mercado de Medellin in La Roma, albeit slightly larger in size. Locals come here to shop for produce, meat, spices and home goods, tourists for souvenirs and everyone comes for its food stalls and restaurants.

Casa Azul.  Cayocan is the birthplace and home to many renowned artists, most notably Frida Kahlo. We visited her family home, Casa Azul, named after its vibrant blue painted exterior. While here, we toured her gardens, art studio and many rooms within her house. The museum displayed her artwork, clothes, diaries and braces while explaining the story of her life. Purchase tickets ahead of time on Viator in order to secure a reservation. Once inside, purchase a photography sticker for $30 Pesos. 

Xochimilco

Xochimilco is an ancient Aztec canal system built around floating gardens. It’s best known today for its narrow waterways, colorful gondolas and lively  atmosphere. The canals are a place to fiesta and enjoy a leisurely afternoon while learning about Aztec culture and the haunting legend of La Llorona.

A Fiesta on the Canals

We started our tour at Embarcadero de Cuemanco, one of the main canals in Xochimilco. The canal was lined with dozens of colorful and vibrant gondolas, called Trajineras, and surrounded by a market of shops, restaurants and bars. Before embarking, we picked up cervezas and snacks for our journey. We then met our guide, Maria, at our Trajinera named, Feliz Cumpleaños, fitting for Devin’s birthday. Maria and our rower were ready for us with snacks, music, mezcal and tequila! 

Rest Stops along the Canals 

As we set off, the rower gradually navigated us through the canals using a long wooden stick with occasional stops at various bars for cocktails and restroom breaks. We made 3 stops:

• First at Don Pino, a bar and snack shop. We of course had margaritas

• Second at Chinampa Onkali, where we saw axolotls (cute amphibious salamanders) and had lunch including blue corn quesadillas and tacos. 

• Third at Micheladas el Yogui, an excellent bar with cocktails and shots served in clay pottery. We even brought the pottery home.

Mezcal & Mariachis 

Throughout the tour, not only did we get a little tipsy but we got to see beautiful nature and learn about the Aztec history and construction of the canals. Our rower even let us try guiding the Trajinera! Maybe it was the alcohol but we soon after drifted off course. Towards the end, a Trajinera with a Mariachi band pulled up and serenaded our group with a few songs!

Tips for Visiting

Hire a Guide. Guides can be hired from any of the docks in Xochimilco, however wanting to be a part of a group, we booked ahead of time through Airbnb Experiences with several other travelers. 

Pronunciation.  Xochimilco is pronounced: So-Chee-Mill-Co.

Traffic.  Plan for traffic if booking a tour. It took us an hour and a half to reach Xochimilco from La Roma.

Buy Snacks.  Buy food and drink to enjoy on the boat from the nearby market. Timing.  The best time to come is between 12-1pm when its busy and most festive. Plan to ride in canals for minimum of 2 hours. 

Cash Only.  Everything in Xochimilco is cash only. This includes:

• Cerveza:  20 Pesos

• Cocktails: 50-100 Pesos

• Bathrooms: 5-10 Pesos

• Mariachi Band: 200-400 pesos (dependent on negotiation, quantity of songs and number of people on board)

Teotihuacán 

Teotihuacán is an ancient city with pyramids, ruins, murals and artifacts that predate the Aztecs by over 1,000 years. One of the most popular ways to view the ruins is by hot air ballooning overhead as the sunrises followed by exploring them on foot.

Sun Rise Over Teotihuacán. We booked a sunrise hot air balloon tour from Mexico City to Teotihuacán, a longtime dream that began with a 4am pickup and an early arrival at Sky Balloons Mexico. While checking in, we sipped hot cocoa and watched dozens of vibrant balloons inflate and ignite in the dark. As dawn approached, balloons lifted off one by one. Soon after, we climbed into our basket, drifting gently upward as the sun rose over the hazy landscape, glowing like a brilliant balloon in the sky.

Ballooning Over Teotihuacán.  Floating toward Teotihuacán, we shifted altitudes above the Pyramid of the Sun as colorful balloons filled the air. From above, the Avenue of the Dead and surrounding ruins slowly came into focus, entirely empty and eerily serene before the park opened. We descended over the avenue toward the Pyramid of the Moon and landed softly in a nearby field, celebrating with a champagne toast. Back on the ground, we enjoyed chilaquiles and tropical fruit while overlooking the ruins and balloons floating overhead.

Exploring Teotihuacán

There are many notable sights to see throughout the ancient city. We were able to explore several of them throughout our visit: 

The Avenue of the Dead.  A 1.5 mile long plaza flanked by the Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon as well as many smaller pyramids and stone platforms. Many vendors line up selling obsidian sculptures, howling noise makers and other items. 

The Pyramid of the Sun.  The largest pyramid at Teotihuacán located along the center of the Avenue of the Dead. It faces west overlooking the north and south ends of the avenue. 

The Pyramid of the Moon.  The second largest pyramid at Teotihuacán located at the north end of The Avenue of the Dead. It faces south looking down the entire avenue. 

Palacio de Quetzalpapaloti.  A well preserved palace with stone carvings, painted walls and ruins of ancient rooms. 

Mural del Puma.  A well preserved mural of a cougar on the east side of the Avenue of the Dead halfway between the pyramids of the sun and moon. 

Plaza Oeste.  A plaza along the south west end of the Avenue of the Dead with underground layers of a stepped pyramid, serpent heads and ruins of multiple temple buildings. 

Tips for Visiting

Getting Here.  Teotihuacán is 1 hour 30 minutes from Mexico City. The best way to get here is with a tour group or by renting a car. The advantage of booking with a tour group is that it takes away the hassle of transportation; the disadvantage is that your time is limited. We booked on Get Your Guide. 

Wear Layers.  It’s chilly when arriving before sunrise but quickly heats up during the afternoon. 

Climbing.  The pyramids have been closed for climbing on since 2020.  

Mexican Cuisine 

Mexican cuisine is one of our favorites in the world. While in Mexico City, we made sure to try as many authentic dishes and favors that we would. 

• Chapulines.  Crispy fried grasshoppers. We had them on tacos, as a garnish to dishes, in bars mixed with peanuts and saw them sold in barrels as snacks with a squeeze of lime. 

• Tlayudas.  A cracker thin tortilla topped with various garnishes. Our favorite was from a street vendor in Zocaló Square. It was spread with refried beans and topped with nopales, Oaxacan cheese and hot sauce. 

• Gordita.  Thick corn masa tortillas cooked until puffy, cut open and stuffed with filling. We ordered them from a street vendor on Paseo de la Reforma who stuffed them with beans, cheese and salsa. 

• Churros.  Fried sticks of ridged dough covered in cinnamon sugar and served with dulce de leche, chocolate sauce or sweeten condensed milk.

• Molcajete.  A traditional stone motar heated over fire and filled with protein like steak, chicken or chorizo. In our case, seitan, tofu or shrimp. The protein is topped with salsa, radish, avocado, cheese and draped in grilled nopales.

• Chilaquiles.  Fried corn tortillas simmered in salsa verde or salsa rojo and topped with fried eggs, avocado, onion, cheese, cream and cilantro.

• Mole.  One of Mexico’s most famous and traditional sauces. It’s typically dark brown and made from a mixture of chili peppers, nuts, dried fruits and spices like cinnamon, star anise and cumin. We had this over cheese enchiladas in Coyoacan. 

• Café de Olla.  Coffee brewed with cinnamon and star anise. It’s typically sweetened with raw cane sugar and served in a clay mug.

• Tequila.  The famous liquor made from the sap of the blue agave cactus. We tried it neat and in cocktails. 

• Mezcal.  A smoky version of tequila. We often drank it neat from candle vase typically seen in churches. 

• Pulque.  A yeasty and fermented drink made in the dying core of the agave cactus.

Places to Eat & Drink

We ate and drank at a range of restaurants, cafes and bars across the city, enjoying Mexican cuisine, cocktails, snacks and street food. 

• Café de Tacuba.  An elevated restaurant in the Centro Historico popular amongst locals. Stop in for mid afternoon coffees and fresh pastries. 

• SOM.  A cocktail bar with exclusively Mexican spirits like mezcal, tequila and pulque. We ordered the piñacati & pulquerita. 

• Matuche.  A mezcal bar with mezcals from all across Mexico. Order a flight to sip on or let the bartender make recommendations. 

• Tlachiquero.  A dive bar specializing in mezcal. Join locals in sipping on mezcal from miniature clay jugs and bowls garnished with tajin and orange slices. 

• Taqueria Orinoco.  A popular taqueria for a Mexico City staple, midnight tacos! Open until the early morning hours, we stopped in late at night after a few drinks for avocado tacos and cheese quesadillas accompanied by a spread of salsas. The food is simple, delicious and inexpensive.

• Churrería el Moro.  A cafe on the corner of Parque Mexico serving churros and chocolaty drinks. Order the warm “Español” for dipping or cold “Mexicano” for sipping.

• Pasillo de Humo.  A restaurant serving traditional Oaxacan cuisine including: smoky homemade salsas, charred tortillas, cricket tacos, a caramelized pumpkin dessert and a cart with a variety of mezcals.

• Fonda Fina.  We came here for Devin’s birthday dinner. The restaurant makes classic Mexican dishes with a contemporary twist and creative cocktails.

• Veganion.  A fully vegan restaurant offering Mexican staples traditionally made with meal like a molcajete, tacos al pastor, carne asada and a sope. 

• Restaurant Ave Maria.  A higher end restaurant serving classic Mexican meals like enchiladas in mole, chile relleno with queso and tres leches served on traditional clay dishes 

• Los Danzantes.  Oxacan style and traditional Mexican dishes, located in Coyoacán. 

  Degú Condesa.  A brunch spot with bold coffee and dishes with Mexican flavor like scrambled eggs cooked in salsa verde or a grilled nopal with a fried egg surrounded by a poblano creama sauce.

• Chiquitito Café.  We learned about this cafe from a Duolingo Podcast on Mexico City. It’s a dog friendly cafe with a range of light pastries, breads and coffee.

Tips for Dining Out

• Reservations.  Make reservations at restaurants ahead of time to guarantee a spot.

• Tipping.  Tipping 10% is standard. Tip anything more for exceptional service. 

• Cash.  Carry cash, especially for street food and at the markets. 

• Restrooms.  Carry small coins to use public restrooms, which usually cost 5 pesos. As with many toilets in Central America, don’t flush used toilet paper. It often clogs the plumbing.

• Tap Water.  Avoid drinking tap water due to risk of contamination unless it’s been boiled or filtered.

• Clothing.  Avoid wearing shorts or sandals. This is seen as beachwear and out of place. 

• Mezcal.  Mezcal is much more popular than tequila. 

Where to Stay

Roma Art Deco Apartment.  A private two bedroom Airbnb in the heart of La Roma steps from Parque Mexico. The home is a cozy spot to relax after a full day exploring the city. 

Casa Aimee.  A guest house with several rooms in a family’s home in Roma Sur. The hosts were wonderful and accommodating, allowing us access to their shared kitchen, rooftop dining area and washing machine. They even prepared us barista style coffees every morning. Reserve on Booking.

Getting Around 

Traffic.  Traffic in Mexico City is notoriously congested. The best recommendation is to plan for extra time when getting around.

By Uber.  Ubers were our preferred method of getting around because of how inexpensive and consistent they are. We could travel from the airport to La Roma for $20 or across town for $10. 

By Metro.  The city also has an extensive subway system. Though we didn’t ride it, it looked to be a cheap and effective way of getting around.

For Next Time…

Watch a Lucha Libre Match.  See the colorfully masked wrestlers perform at the Arena Coliseo. 

Visit Puebla.  One of Mexico’s “pueblos magicos,” a colonial town with historic buildings covered in tiled walls and bright colors. 

See more Sights.  The Palacio Nacional, Museo Somaya, Casa y Studio Luis Barrigan and Universidad Nacional Autónoma de Mexico.

Hike the Volcanos.  Three volcanos with hiking trails outside the city including Iztaccihuatl, Nevado de Toluca and Popocatepetl. 

The Bacalar Lagoon, Mexico

The Lagoon of Seven Colors

The Bacalar Lagoon is freshwater lake known as the “Lagoon of Seven Colors,” named for the various shades of blue, green, aquamarine and deep navy. The lagoon is home to colonies of stromatolites, islands with migratory birds, narrow waterways, shallow sand bars, deep cenotes and mangrove forests. It’s the main source of drinking water for the region and beach like retreat for locals and visitors. 

Bacalar Lagoon Tour

The best way to experience the lagoon, its vibrant shades of blue and various sights is by boat. We took a “booze cruise” with Amir Adven Tours Bacalar, visiting three sand bars, tiny islands and deep cenotes. The tour included unlimited beers and tequila cocktails like tequila sunrises, tequila sodas and palomas. Half way through, the crew prepared a floating surfboard with fresh mangos, watermelon, bananas and avocado toast for us to snack on.  

Canal de los Piratas.  A channel used by the ancient Mayans for trading and by pirates for surprise attacked on Bacalar. The tour brought us to a sandbar at the channel’s delta where we swam and drank in the shallow waters. The canal itself was off limits. 

Stromatolites.  Also known as living rocks, the lagoon is a habitat for the planet’s earliest life form, stromatolites. These organisms create mud-like mounds and structures throughout the lagoon. Sections are quartered off to protect the nurseries growing within. 

Cenote de la Bruja.  A cenote measuring over 100 meters deep with jet black water. It’s forbidden to swim in and feared to be cursed by a Mayan woman who was killed during the Spanish conquest. 

Cenote Esmerelda. A large cenote along the edge of the lagoon named for its emerald hued water. It’s one of the main sources that fills the lagoon with freshwater. Beautiful hotels and balnearios line its shore while sand bars with anchored boats and surround its outer edge.

Island of Birds.  A small tree covered island in the middle of the lagoon home to colonies of migratory birds. We visited before many had finished their seasonal migration to the lagoon.

Protecting the Lagoon.  The lagoon is a protected reserve home to fragile ecosystems of stromatolites, mangrove forests and migratory birds. It also serves as a major source of freshwater for the region. Sunblock and single use plastic are banned everywhere in the lagoon. 

Los Rapidos de Bacalar

The Rapids of Bacalar are a narrow river between the Bacalar and Xul-Ha Lagoons home to stromatolites, mangroves, tiny fish and marine birds. We visited a “lagoon club” with access to the river via a boardwalk and kayaks with a seafood restaurant and tables overlooking it.

Drift Snorkeling.  Follow the boardwalk along the river and jump in at its end. Let the currently gently carry you downstream. With snorkels, peer underwater to admire the river banks lined with layers of bubbling stromatolites. 

Lagoon Kayaking.  Rent kayaks and paddle further upstream to a small lagoon. Spend time here floating around and enjoying the peaceful surrounding before lazily paddling back downstream. 

Tips for Visiting: 

• Getting Here.  Hire a taxi from the city center, about 20 minutes away. Taxis should cost no more than 200 pesos one way.

• Admission. 200 Pesos. It includes access to the boardwalk, river, facilities and use of a life jacket.

• Single Kayaks.  200 Pesos for one hour. 

• Lockers. 50 Pesos + 50 Pesos deposit for the duration of your visit. 

• Conservation.  Do not step on or touch the stromatolites. They may look like rocks but ate delicate ecosystems of microorganisms. 

Eco Parque Bacalar

Eco Parque Bacalar is an elevated boardwalk leading through a nature park with mangroves, wetlands and access to the Bacalar Lagoon. From the boardwalk, we overlooked the blue hued lagoon, basked in the sunny rays and cooled off in its refreshing water. Admission costs 20 Pesos. 

Balneario Ejidal Mágico Bacalar

Balneario Ejidal Mágico Bacalar is a “lagoon club” mostly popular with locals. We bought a day pass and rented sun lounges overlooking the lagoon while sipping on Mexican cerveza. Families of locals picnicked under the thatched picnic tables, children slid down small waterslide, people jumped off docks into the lagoon while others lounged in overwater hammocks.

Bacalar Pueblo

Bacalar is a small town centered around the Bacalar Lagoon. The pueblo has a very local atmosphere, less visited than the main tourist hubs of the Rivera Maya. The quiet streets are colored in murals depicting local life and culture. The area has a storied history dating back to the Mayan Empire, Spanish conquest and days of pirate attacks. 

Zocalo Square.  Bacalar’s main square is paved with stone walkways, small playgrounds, a craft market, verdant trees and bushes cut into the shape of roosters. Its surrounding streets are lined with restaurants, cafes, hostels, municipal buildings and the fort. In the late afternoon, vendors arrive with carts selling ice cream, churros, sliced mangos, grilled meats, elote, juices and coffee. 

Marquesitas.  A wafer thin crepe-like roll stuffed and topped with a range of sweet or savory toppings. They’re a commonly sold at competing food carts in the Zocalo Square.

Fort San Felipe.  A historic star shaped fortress with a steep moat and cannons pointing towards the lagoon, built to defend the city against pirate attacks, common during the Spanish colonization. Inside is a small museum dedicated to the history of Bacalar, its importance as a trading post for the Mayans, the brutal Spanish conquest and continual pirate raids. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Cafe Arúgula.  A cafe with health foods, smoothies, agua frescas, coffees and kombuchas. Its shaded outdoor deck is a comfy spot to spend the morning with floor cushions, hammock chairs and low sitting furniture. It’s a popular place with digital nomads and European expats. 

La Burguesía del Pueblo.  A second floor restaurant overlooking the Zocalo Plaza. Come here for Mexican appetizers, burgers and cocktails. 

Fruta Bar Bacalar.  A cocktail bar merging Mexican and Caribbean flavors in a warm and natural space decorated with warm lights, dim candles, tropical plants, dried palm fronds and wooden furniture. It’s connected to a sushi restaurant. We ordered the Spicy Love and The Tiki. 

• Spicy Love. A cocktial made with tequila, mezcal, habanero and grapefruit juice. 

• The Tiki. A cocktial made with mezcal, aperol, passion fruit, pineapple and agave honey.

Panaderia La Tataleta.  A local bakery with traditional Mexican pastries like conchas, medialunas, orejas and Rosca de Reyes. The later is a pan dulce served on 3 Kings Day, an ovular bread ring with colorful candied fruits as decoration. 

Getting Around

By Bus.  Arrive and depart from Bacalar by ADO Bus.  Buses regularly connect Bacalar to various destinations along the Rivera Maya and Yucatán. The lagoon is located about 2 hours from Tulum.

On Foot.  The city center is walkable with hotels, restaurants and sights all within 20 minutes of each other.

By Taxi.  Taxis are fair and affordable in Bacalar. They’re the easiest way to see sights further along the lagoon. Flag one down, negotiate a price and request their WhatsApp for future rides.

Elsewhere in the Yucatán

Explore our guides on The Yucatán Peninsula and the coastal city of Tulum, Mexico for nearby destinations and additional travel inspiration. 

For Next Time…

Ruins of Calakmul.  Calakmul was once one of the most populous and powerful Mayan cities in the Yucatán. Its ruins with pyramids, temples, ball courts, plazas and various structures are buried deep within the jungle near the boarder with Guatemala. We had a full day tour scheduled from Bacalar but had to cancel last minute due to food poisoning. It’s at top of our list next time we return to the Yucatán.  Book here!

Tulum, Mexico

Tulum, Mexico

Tulum is a rapidly growing tourist town with luxury eco resorts, Mayan ruins and access to natural sights like the jungle, cenotes, lagoons and white sand beaches along the Caribbean Sea.

Barrio La Veleta 

We stayed in Barrio La Veleta, a jungleous and up and coming neighborhood of Tulum on the edge of town. It was our favorite part of the city with clothing boutiques, bike & scooter rentals, juice bars, co-working spaces, tattoo shops, cafes, restaurants, bars, trendy barber shops, mini markets and several Oxxo. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Cafe Si To.  A jungelous cafe with tropical plants, a tiny pool and live edge wooden furniture. Their menu offers dishes like chilaquiles, french toast, fresh fruit bowls and avocado toast. Being in Mexico, we each ordered the chilaquiles, one with verde sauce and the other with rojo! 

La Pebeta.  A cafe and bakery with Mexican breakfast dishes. We tried the green bowl made with cactus, spinach and egg whites cooked in a salsa verde and the “divorced eggs” two eggs served on corn tortillas with beans and cheese, covered in salsa verde and salsa rojo.

Tres Galeones.  A Mexican seafood restaurant and taqueria with a lush garden patio and interior that resembles a large wooden ship with port holes, a captains deck and nautical decor. Come here for a local beer like Corona or Pacifico and the seafood tacos and tostones like octopus, soft shell crab, baja style fish, fish al pastor and shrimp.

Panadería La Delicia y Abarrotes.  A local Mexican bakery with over a dozen types of pan dulces (Mexican pastries). We stopped by here twice to buy breakfast and desserts.

Velvet Tulum.  A self serve ice cream shop with a mix of classic and unique soft serve flavors like chocolate, vanilla, pistachio, taro and grape + charcoal. The ice cream is sold by weight and can quickly add up in price.

Parque del Jaguar

Parque del Jaguar is a national park and jungle reserve along the Caribbean Sea with access to the Tulum Ruins, multiple public beaches, restaurants, hotels and beach clubs. The park is open daily from 9am-5pm for a small fee. It’s easily navigable on foot, by bike or public shuttle. 

Parque del Jaguar Mirador.  A large wooden staircase across from Playa Mangle in Parque del Jaguar with views of the lush jungle reserve and Caribbean Coast.

Tulum Hotel Zone

Tulum’s hotel zone is a vibey and tropical neighborhood along the Caribbean with eco-hotels, luxury hostels, beach clubs and nightly outdoor parties. It’s a popular designation with millennial travelers, digital nomads and influencers. Swimsuit clad people ride bicycles and scooters down the palm lined road to white sand beaches and jungleous eco-resorts sculpted from natural materials

Beaches & Beach Clubs

Playa las Palmas.  A powdery white sand beach with shallow aquamarine water perfect for sunbathing, swimming and body surfing. The beach has several restaurants, hotels and bars with lounges and beds for rent. It’s one of the public beaches, accessible through the Parque del Jaguar.

Playa Santa Fe.  A white sand beach with access to the Tulum Ruins. Many boat tours with seaside views of them leave from here.  

Playa Pescadores.  A white sand beach with restaurants, bars and beach clubs. Many snorkeling and fishing tours leave from here. 

Playa Mirador.  A small beach with a large rocky outcrop. The water is rocky but it’s a fun spot to sunbathe and watch the pelicans dive into the water. It’s nearby several beach front hotels and bars.

Ramon’s at Pocna Tulum.  A beachfront restaurant at Playa las Palmas with palm tree shaded beach beds and a sand floor dining room overlooking the beach. Come here for the tropical cocktails like piña coladas or margaritas and Mexican dishes like tacos, ceviche and guacamole.

Club de Playa Zazil-Kin.  A palm covered beach club with lounges and tables in the sand at Playa Pesadores. Come here for the grilled seafood, coconut shrimp, ceviche, Mexican beers and tropical cocktails. 

Mivida.  A beachfront hotel, restaurant and bar with a thatched patio, beach beds and white sand beach. 

Mayan Ruins 

Tulum Ruins. The Tulum Runis are large archeological sight with Mayan structures perched on a cliff overlooking the Caribbean Sea. The complex is surrounded by a stone wall and encompasses multiple well preserved temples and crumbing buildings. The city was thought to be a central trading post for the Mayan empire.

• El Castillo.  The largest and most grand building of the complex with a temple atop of a stone staircase and flanked by two smaller temples. It resides at a high point near the cliff overlooking the Caribbean Sea.

• El Templo de los Frescos.  An intricately designed temple covered in Mayan carvings, figures of gods and red painted imprints of human hands. 

• Templo del Dios Del Descendente.  A stone temple with angled walls and a motif above the doorway of a god descending from the heavens.

• Templo del Dios Del Viento.  A stone temple with several alters on a cliff overlooking the Caribbean. The temple is dedicated to Kukulcan, the God of Wind. 

• Casa del Cenote.  A small stone house built on top of a Cenote. It was thought to be the village’s main source of fresh water.

• La Muralla Defensa y Límite.  The defensive stone wall surrounding three sides of the village with a narrow passageway to enter and exit.

• Pro Tip:  Arrive early, by 8am, to avoid the massive crowds and large tour groups.

Coba Archaeological Site

Coba is a sprawling Mayan city within the lush jungle comprised of multiple acropolises, stone pyramids, temples, platforms, ball courts and stelaes or vertical stone tablets carved in hieroglyphs and depictions of Mayan priests, royalty and warriors. 

Group Nohoch Mul.  An acropolis with two stepped pyramids, a ball court, several small platforms and unearthed ruins. 

• Nohoch Mul Pyramid.  The tallest pyramid in the Yucatan with stepped sides and a central staircase leading to an alter on top. Its crumbling front is fully unearthed while its other side remain buried beneath lush vegetation.

• Observatorio Astronómico de Cobá.  A very well preserved astronomical pyramid with rounded sides, four levels and twenty steps representing the Mayan calendar. It’s fully unearthed and can be viewed on all sides.

• Juego de Pelota.  A well preserved ball court with stone rings centered on two angled walls opposite each other. Each wall has six alters for Mayan royalty to watch from. Inlaid in the floor are carvings of a human skull and beheaded jaguar. 

Group D.  An acropolis with temples, platforms, a pyramid and overgrown Mayan road. 

• Structure 5.  A stepped platform and small temple with the crumbling remains of rounded columns. It’s one of the few ruins that can be climbed on to explore its construction and ceremonial purposes. 

• Conjunto Pinturas.  A multilevel stepped pyramid with rounded corners and a central staircase leading to an alter at its top. A few smaller temples and platforms with rounded columns and stelaes surround its base.

Group Macanxoc.  The furthest acropolis in the ancient city with a plaza home the ruins of temples, platforms and stelaes. 

• Nohuch Mul Plaza.  A plaza with a walled and stepped temple surrounded by several smaller platforms, temples, altars and stelaes.

• Macanxoc Temple.  A partly uncovered pyramid-like temple that can be climbed onto. Its top half and depth are buried under the jungle. At its base is a covered stelae. 

Group Coba.  A grand acropolis at the entrance of Coba with a ball court, platform, pyramid and climbable temple. 

• Juego de Pelota.  A Mayan ball court with two intact stone rings centered on its angled walls. Two stone skulls are inlaid into the side of the pyramid at one end of the ball court. 

• La Iglesia.  A massive complex with a platform supporting a towering pyramid that rises above the jungle canopy and a climbable temple with a tunnel beneath its steps and alters at its top. Intricate stelaes with Mayan hieroglyphs and images are on display throughout the complex. 

Tips for Visiting Coba

• Getting to Coba by Oriente Bus.  The bus schedule is only confirmed on the day of. Arrive when the bus station opens to buy tickets. Tickets are one way and cash only. It takes less than an hour to reach Coba. The bus stops about 10 minutes on foot from the Coba ticket office. 

• Getting to Coba by Collectivo. Shared taxis vans depart from the corner of Calle Osiris Norte and Cancun-Chetumal, a block from the bus terminal. Vans depart between 9-10am. Fares cost 100 pesos per person.

• Returning to Tulum by Collectivo.  Flag down a collectivo on the main road in the town of Coba. Drivers will depart once the van is full of passengers. The wait can take up to 2 hours. Fares cost 100 pesos per person. 

• Tickets.  If entering on foot, there are two entry tickets. An infrastructure fee costing around 100 pesos and the entrance fee costing around 95 pesos. 

• Rent Bike.  The best way to get around is by renting a bike. With a bike, the entire complex can be seen in about 3 hours. Bikes are available to rent just after entering the park for around 65 pesos. 

• Restoration Work. Many of the stelas are undergoing restoration and covered in plastic tarps. 

• Access.  No pyramids can be climbed on. Some temples and platforms have can be climbed on. 

Cenotes

Cenotes de Sac Actún. Sac Actún is the world’s largest known network of underground rivers, caves and cenotes. We snorkeled through 3 flooded cenotes and connecting chambers within the cave system filled with stalactites and stalagmites. As we swam, the subtle current pulled us through the cool fresh water, bats flew overhead and fish swam beneath us.

• Open Air Cenote.  We descended a wooden staircase and waded into the water of an open air cenote, one without a ceiling. Light streamed in from above as water slowly dripped from stalactites into the clear blue water, echoing off the surrounding stone walls. From here, a series of caves lead deeper into the underground maze. 

• Semi-Open Cenote.  From the first cenote, we swam through a passageway into a semi open chamber with a hole in the ceiling and a tree growing through it. The Mayans referred to this as the tree of life, connecting the underworld to the living world above. 

• Enclosed Cenote.  We snorkeled back to the first cenote and entered a narrow passageway covered in stalactites hanging just above our heads. Looking under water, stalagmites pointed up at us and dark flooded passageways lead deeper into the earth. The main chamber was a truly magnificent spectacle with a fully enclosed ceiling dripping in thousands of stalactites and dangling roots from trees above. It felt like swimming inside of a geode. 

• Getting Here from Tulum.  We looked into biking here (way too far), taking a bus (there is no bus), joining a tour or renting a car (far too expensive). We hired a taxi for a half day, costing 2,000 Pesos, to pick up us, bring us to the cenote, wait for us and drop us off at the beach in Tulum. 

Rio Secreto. We descended through a cenote into a flooded cave system, trekking through knee deep water and swimming through deeper sections. Headlamps illuminated the water in a blue glow, revealing tiny shrimp and catfish. The dark, wet cave was mesmerizing, with ever-changing chambers filled with ancient flow stones, marine fossils, spear like stalactites, nubby stalagmites and crystalline columns.

• Jungle Adventure.  After exploring the caves, we biked along gravel trails through the jungle to a zip-line park, spotting a venomous coral snake and a bright blue butterfly along the way. There, we rode four zip-lines through narrow gaps in the trees and rappelled 10 meters into a cenote. 

• No Phones or Cameras Allowed.  Trying to keep the experience a “secret,” and charge for photos, the operator does not allow phones or cameras in the park. It allowed us to disconnect and take in the beauty of the cave and experience.

• Book the Rio Secreto Plus Tour.  We booked the full day Rio Secreto Plus Tour. It included a guided tour of the cave system, biking through the jungle, zip lining, repelling, all the gear for the activities, round trip transportation from Tulum and a buffet style taco bar for lunch. 

• Request the “Supreme Trail”.  In order to accommodate the 500 to 1,000 daily visitors, we were divided up into small groups of 12. Each group was staggered and assigned different a different trial through the caves. Of the five trials, we were assigned the “Supreme Trail.” Allowing us to experience a little of everything within the cave system. 

Gran Cenote.  A popular open air cenote just outside of Tulum. We swam and snorkeled around the cool fresh water, entering narrow caves and large chambers with massive stalactites and colonies of bats. Light streams through the blue water, illuminating the deep caves extending further into the abyss while families of turtles and tiny fish swim alongside snorkelers. A dark cave connects the Gran Cenote to Baby Cenote, a smaller open air cenote with light blue water and an island in its middle. 

Tips for Visiting Gran Cenote 

• Getting Here.  Gran Cenote is located outside of Tulum. It takes 30 minutes to bike to from the city center. 

• Hours.  Entry times fluctuate. Arrive at opening to avoid the crowds.

• Tickets. Entry fees cost 500 pesos per person, cash only. Admission includes snorkel masks. 

• Lockers.  Lockers are available for rent for around 30 pesos. 

• Self Guided.  The cenote can be explored without a guide but its required to wear a life jacket.

Where to Stay

We stayed at an Airbnb in Barrio La Veleta, We had a second floor condo with a kitchen and private roof deck to ourselves. It was the perfect escape, merging both nature and city.

Getting Around

By Bike.  The most affordable way to explore Tulum is by bike! There are rentals across the city charging between 100-200 pesos per day. We rented from La Veleta Rental Bike, charging only 100 pesos per day.

By Taxi.  Taxis are available across the city. Rates around 200 pesos to get across town. The safest location to hire a taxi is a street stands called Sitio de Taxi. Always negotiate price before getting in.

By Bus.  The ADO Bus is the best way of getting around the Yucatan with routes connecting Tulum to nearby and regional cities. Book tickets online ahead of time.

Elsewhere in the Yucatán

Explore our guides on The Yucatán Peninsula and The Bacalar Lagoon for nearby destinations and additional travel inspiration.

The Yucatán Peninsula

The Yucatán Peninsula

The Yucatán Peninsula is a tropical destination that exudes all around vacation vibes with white sand beaches, warm turquoise water, beachfront hotels & resorts. At the same time, it’s an adventurous destination with jungleous terrain, marine reserves, cenotes and historic sights including Mayan pyramids, temple complexes and colonial old towns. 

Cancún

Cancún is popular tourist town with resorts, cruise docks, late night clubs, white sand beaches and warm turquoise waters. It’s the entry point to the Yucatán Peninsula with many access to sights and cities along the Mexican Riviera. We’ve visited here a few times over the years for weekend getaways and a wedding. 

Cancun Centro.  A safe and central neighborhood near the ADO bus station, close to the beach and the ferries to Isla Mujeres. It has less touristy atmosphere than the hotel zone with boutique hotels, high end hostels, Mexican restaurants, tequila bars, cute cafes, small plazas and tropical parks.

Hotel Zone. The hotel zone of Cancun is the most touristy neighborhood of the city with white sand beaches hugging the turquoise sea, craft and souvenir markets, restaurants, bars and nightclubs. As its name implies, its where many large hotels, resorts and condo buildings are located. Many have access to the beach, offering public access with chair and umbrella rentals.

Things to Do

Visit The Beach.  All along the coast of Cancún, powdery white sand shores hug the warm turquoise water. Many hotels, resorts and apartment buildings in the hotel zone have access to the beach front. Most have public access with chair and umbrella rentals. The most accessible beach in the Hotel Zone is Playa Chacmool. 

Shop for Handicrafts.  Colorful and traditional Mexican handicrafts make for an amazing keepsake. Shop the stalls at Flea Market Cancun in the Hotel Zone for items like alebrijes, luchador masks, maracas, ceramics, beach towels and clothes.

Places to Eat & Drink

El Socio Naiz Taquería.  A cocktail bar and taqueria with elevated tacos served on blue, yellow or pink corn tortillas with a variety of traditional and exotic toppings. We ordered vegan tacos, the Bob Marley and El Remiks. The first came with sautéed hibiscus flowers mixed with onion and carrot, topped with dollops of chipotle aioli and guac. The second was made with two types of spiced vegan meats topped with an onion jam. We paired these with tequila and mezcal cocktails!

Taqueria El Mexicano.  A basic and inexpensive taqueria with Mexican staples like tacos, chips and salsa, guacamole and margaritas. 

Lorenzillo’s.  A high end restaurant with a beautiful wooden interior and deck overlooking the lagoon. We came here for a lobster dinner. 

Restaurante Natura.  A vegan breakfast cafe with a lush patio and furniture carved out of tree stumps. Order the huevos rancheros and chilaquiles. 

Ah Barbaro.  A restaurant specializing in inexpensive tacos. We tried the fish tacos and grilled raja tacos with a Corona and lime.

Chichén Itzá

Chichén Itzá  is large Mayan archeological complex with a steeped pyramid, the ruins of temples, a massive ball court, an astronomical observatory and well preserved hieroglyphs. 

El Castillo.  The massive and well preserved stepped pyramid at the center of Chichén Itzá. We circled all 4 sides of it, taking in its grandeur and marveling at its intricate designs. 

Gran Juego de Pelota.  The largest Mayan ball court ever discovered. It’s flanked by two temples and “bleachers” decorated in carvings depicting how the game was played. 

Tzompantli.  A stone platform designed with walls covered in carvings of human skulls. 

Warriors' Temple.  The ruins of a large temple with stacked stone columns, overgrown platforms and Mayan hieroglyphs. 

Cenote Ik Kil.  A cenote nearby Chichén Itzá with swimmable blue waters. We came here to cool off in the refreshing oasis. Little fish swam around us as we floated in the water listening to the echo of other swimmers bounce off the vine covered stone walls around us.

Tips for Visiting Chichén Itzá

• Getting to Chichén Itzá. The ADO Bus is the best way to get to Chichén Itzá. Buses leave from Cancun most mornings, returning in the mid afternoon. The bus takes between 3-4 hours allows about 4 hours to explore the ruins and nearby denotes. 

• Wear Sun Protection.  Wear sunscreen or bring and an umbrella to protect from the sun. 

• Stay Hydrated.  Bring water to stay hydrated. It gets very hot! 

Isla Mujeres

Isla Mujeres is a sleepy island off the coast of Cancun with a small town, hotels, beaches and tour companies offering snorkeling tours. It’s accessible by ferry or boat. 

Punta Sur

Punta Sur is the southern point of Isla Mujeres and most eastern point of Mexico. The tip of the island is lined with nature trails, cliffside caves, jagged rock formations and many free roaming iguanas.

Punta Norte

Punta Norte is a tourist town with restaurants, bars, hotels, souvenir shops, tour companies, street vendors and white sand beaches on the north side of the island. 

Miguel Hidalgo.  A pedestrian street with restaurants, bars, souvenir shops and tour agencies in Punta Norte. 

Playa El Cocal.  A sand beach with shallow turquoise water and sand bars stretching hundreds of feet into the water. Come here for snorkeling, swimming and sun bathing. The best snorkeling is beneath the wooden bridge leading to the MIA Reef Hotel. 

Playa Centro.  A white sand beach in Punta Norte near the ferry terminal with restaurants, hotels, beach rentals and tour companies. 

Snorkeling & Island Tour

We booked a snorkeling tour to explore Isla Mujeres and the crystal clear waters surrounding the island.  Our first stop brought us to Barquito Hundido, a snorkeling point with many tropical fish and underwater sculpture garden. 

From here, we moored offshore near Playa El Cocal on Island Mujeres where we swam, snorkeled and ventured onto shore. We were given a couple hours for beach time, shopping and exploring the island. 

Afterwards, we boated to Playa Tiburon, a beach and restaurant named for the shark that is kept in a fenced area off shore. We ate lunch grilled barracuda and drank margaritas for lunch. Back on the boat, we continued to boat around the island’s vibrant blue waters while jamming out to Bachata music and drinking tequila. 

We booked with Isla Mujeres Tours. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Coconut Vendors.  Having a craving for coconuts, we stopped by a street vendor selling coconut paletas (popsicles) and another selling fresh coconuts. We drank the coconut water then had it husked open and the “meat” prepared with hot sauce and lime juice.

Green Demon.  A beach front restaurant with umbrellas, light bites and cocktails.

Lancheros Mexican Seafood.  A seafood restaurant in the pier near the ferry terminal. We came here for dinner before catching the last ferry back to Cancun.

Acantilado.  A small outdoor restaurant at Punta Sur. We came here for ceviche and cerveza.

Getting Around 

By Ferry.  Take the ferry from the Puerto Juarez Terminal in Cancun. We booked roundtrip tickets with Ultramar for around $25. 

By Golf Cart.  The easiest way to get around the island is by golf cart. Rent one from Coco Cart Rental near the ferry terminal. Prices are negotiable. A half day rental can cost anywhere from $50 to $100.

Fishing in Puerto Natales

Visit the seaside village of Puerto Natales and hire a local fisherman to arrange a fishing tour. Our group boarded a fishing boat for a half day tour and caught several fish including red snapper, bonito, porgie, sea bass and a 44 inch barracuda. The captain filleted the barracuda and mixed it with lime juice, habanero, tomato and cilantro to create one of the freshest ceviches we’ve ever had. Of course, there were Mexican beers and tequila on board.

Playa del Carmen 

Playa del Carmen is a very touristy beach town along the Rivera Maya with large resorts, adventure parks, beach clubs and ferries to the island of Cozumel. We took a day trip here to meet family, eating and drinking our way across the city center. 

Quinta Avenida.  A very touristy pedestrian street in the center of town with tequila shops, t-shirt vendors, silver jewelry stores, souvenir malls with aisles of colorful trinkets, the expected tourist traps, tour operators and chain restaurants. The lengthy street is a hub for activity with thousands of vacationers, live performers, shop owners calling out “hola amigo” and  colorful Mexican banderas draped overhead. 

Fundadores Beach.  A large white sand beach in the city center with restaurants, hotels and beach bars. It’s a popular spot for tourists and locals to enjoy the Caribbean sun and bright blue water. 

Parque Los Fundadores.  A treelined park between the Fundadores Beach and Quinta Avenida with singing musicians, dancing performers, mariachi bands and Mayan rope swingers.

Places to Eat & Drink

Other than visiting the beach and shops, Playa del Carmen has a decent food scene with restaurants, cafes and bars all around town. 

Mexico Loco.  An authentic and energetic Mexican restaurant in the center of town with dishes like table-side guacamole, mixed seafood ceviche, cheese quesadillas and nachos covered in mole. They serve the largest margaritas we have ever drank, local beers and overflowing shots of tequila. While dining, dancing performers and guitar strumming musicians serenaded us with song. 

La Bodeguita del Medio.  A restaurant and bar that feels more like Cuba than Mexico. Bottles of Cuban rums line the bar adjacent to a humidor with boxes of Cuban cigars. The walls and warmly lit lights are covered in hand written notes and signatures from years of previous guests. We sat at the long wooden bar sipping on Havana Club while a Cuban brass band performed on stage and couples danced salsa behind us.

El Gober Marisqueria.  A seafood restaurant with freshly caught fish, live lobsters and Caribbean dishes. We ordered the patacones and a seafood tower, a poke style dish layered with tuna, shrimp, octopus, white fish, tomato, avocado, cucumber and avocado surrounded by a pool of spicy sauce.

The Lost Tiki.  A tiki bar in a thatched restaurant with colorful tiki mugs. To be honest, the drinks weren’t the greatest but the pan fried edamame served in a bowl of umami sauce helped make up for it. 

ARCANA.  A vibey outdoor cafe surrounded by tropical plants and decorated with pink and green accents. We tried the coconut tahini latte and the rose pedal tea.

Places to Stay in Cancun 

Having visited multiple times, we’ve stayed in a beach front apartment, millennial style hostel and resort.

Enigmatic Hotel Experience Cancun.  A high end hostel with spacious and comfy private rooms. The hotel has its own restaurant, rooftop bar, co-working space, tattoo parlor, outdoor lounge and pool. They host daily events and activities and have a sister hotel down the street, Nomads Hotel & Rooftop Pool Cancun.

Carisa y Palma Apartments.  An apartment complex in the Hotel Zone with vacation rentals. Our room had a balcony overlooking the Caribbean and city. It’s located on Playa Chacmool with beach access.  Book here! 

Dreams Riviera.  An all inclusive resort just outside of the fishing village of Puerto Morales. We’re not usually the resort type but came here for a wedding. The restaurants, facilities and activities made it the perfect place to celebrate and relax. Book here!

Getting Around 

Airport Bus.  From the Cancun Airport, take an ADO bus to the Cancun Bus Terminal for 140 pesos per person. It drops off 10 minutes on foot from the city center. Take a taxi from here to elsewhere in the city. 

ADO Bus.  The ADO bus is the best way to get around the Yucatan Peninsula with terminals in most cities and towns with buses departing regularly. They’re safe, affordable and reliable!

Good to Know:  Ubers cannot pick up from the airport. Taxis cost an exorbitant amount.

Elsewhere in the Yucatán

Explore our guides on the coastal city of Tulum, Mexico and The Bacalar Lagoon for nearby destinations and additional travel inspiration around the Yucatán. 

For Next Time…

Having visited pockets of the Yucatán, primarily centered around the Rivera Maya, we plan to venture westwards to the colonial cities of Merida, Valladolid and Campeche as well as Isla Holbox on the Gulf of Mexico. 

Panama City, Panama

Panama

Panama is a Central American country at the crossroads of North and South America. It’s home to Caribbean beaches, Pacific marine reserves, lush rain forests, an urban metropolis, the Panama Canal and a diversity of cultural backgrounds.

Panama City

Panama City is a sprawling city on the Pacific side of the country with towering skyscrapers, colonial architecture and historic ruins. It’s a starting point to reach many of the country’s nature reserves, and hub for other destinations across Central and South America. 

Casco Viejo 

Panama City’s old town is a beautiful colonial era neighborhood built on a peninsula overlooking the Panama Bay with walled sections, seafood restaurants, rooftop bars, clothing shops, lush plazas, free museums, beautiful cathedrals and cultural sights. 

Elegant Architecture 

Walking down the narrow brick streets with the rails of the old street cars still visible feels like stepping through a time capsule. The elegant architecture is akin to the historic neighborhoods of Madrid with ornate facades painted in muted neutrals and pops of color, thin balconies decorated with tropical plants, warmly lit antique lanterns and clay tiled roofs. Some buildings have been well preserved while others juxtapose them as ruins now overtaken by nature. 

Sights 

Plaza Herrera.  A romantic and scenic plaza surrounded by elegant architecture, luxury hotels, boutiques and restaurants. 

Plaza de la Catedral.  A brick paved plaza in the center of Casco Viejo with a gazebo, trees and park benches. It’s flanked by the La Catedral de Panama, colonial architecture and museums. Artists often come here in the early morning with sketchbooks to draw the sights around the plaza. 

La Catedral de Panama.  The city’s main cathedral built with an ornate stone facade, large wooden door and two white bell towers. 

Cintra Costera.  A road and walkway several miles along the coast from the modern financial center to the old town of Casco Viejo with city views.

Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús.  The stone and brick ruins of a former church. All that remains is the crumbling facade, walls and interior courtyard

Convento de Santo Domingo.  The crumbling brick ruins of a historic convent and church with an adjacent chapel hosing a museum of religious artifacts. 

Iglesia Nuestra Señora de La Merced.  A stone facade cathedral with two simplistic white bell and clocktowers. We passed by here when the bells were in full swing letting out dongs heard across the old town. 

Paseo de las Bovedas.  A scenic waterfront walkway along the colonial wall in Casco Viejo. There is a monument dedicated to the history of Panama, views of the modern city and a floral covered walkway with vendors selling handicrafts and souvenirs. 

Corridor La Quince.  An arts district outside of Casco Viejo with graffiti and murals covering the buildings & string lights draping the streets. Many of the colonial buildings are in disrepair while others have been renovated to modern standards. 

Plaza Carlos V.  A small garden plaza overlooking the Panama Bay dedicated to one of the first Spanish rulers of Panama credited with the idea of creating the Panama Canal. Guna women often sell their Molas and other handcrafted products from here.

Plaza Medio Baluarte.  A small but photogenic plaza with colorful colonial buildings, a central fountain and an overlook along the wall. We watched as artists painted the city scenery early one morning. 

Plaza Simón Bolívar.  A plaza with a large monument dedicated to Simón Bolívar, the leader who lead several Central and South American countries to independence from Spain. The plaza is flanked by a cathedral and restaurants.

Amador Causeway.  A palm lined road and walkway connecting three islands near the mouth of the Panama Canal. Come here to walk the scenic 3km road, watch ship waiting to enter the Panama Canal and admire views of the city skyline. Along the road are bike rentals, restrooms, overlooks and historical placards. Towards the islands are numerous restaurants, hotels, a marina and cruise terminal. 

Miraflores Visitor Center.  A lock system and lookout on the Panama Canal. Come watch ships pass through, learn about the canal’s history and watch a movie about it narrated by Morgan Freeman. 

• Good to Know: Plan your visit around when ships pass through the locks. Not knowing that ships pass through at infrequent times, the next one wasn’t for over 3 hours when we visited. 

• Getting Here: The visitor center is reachable by bus from Albrook Station or taxi. It can take a little over an hour to reach from Casco Viejo by bus or 20min by car.

Museums 

Panama Viejo.  An archeological park with the crumbling brick and stone ruins of the original colonial Panama City. The city had many houses, multiple churches, roads, a grand plaza, market, cistern, bridge and tall bell tower. It was left to ruin after a major earthquake, multiple fires and pirate attacks. Come here to climb the 116 step tower with lookouts over the ruins, modern day skyline and Pacific Ocean. The view offers a unique contrast to the bustling city surrounding it.

Museo de la Mola.  A museum dedicated to the colorful and intricately patterned textiles made by Panama’s indigenous Guna Women. The well curated exhibit explains the cultural importance of the women and their textiles, how they’re handcrafted and the stories behind them. It also features an interactive sound and light exhibit, an origami station and a magnetic wall to add to the museum’s Mola. The museum is free to enter. 

Museo de la Historia.  A small history museum in Casco Viejo about the founding of Panama and its independence from Spain and Colombia, the diverse cultures that make up Panama and the history of the Panama Canal. Come to see one of Panama’s first ever flags, a constitutional manuscript, and the national anthem. It’s free to enter. 

Mi Pueblito.  An open air museum set up like small towns with reproductions of colonial buildings and a nature trail with reproductions of thatched structures from Panama’s indigenous tribes. When we visited, there were many food vendors set up selling local and local dishes and snacks. 

Parks

Parque Natural Metropolitano.  A tropical nature park with hiking trails and scenic overlooks of Panama City’s skyline. Come here to spot monkeys, sloths, agoutis and humming birds. We spent over 3 hours walking the trails and spotting wildlife through our binoculars. 

Trails  

• El Roble. A 0.7km trail and road leading from the visitor center to the Mono Titi trail 

• Camino de Mono Titi.  A 1.2km trail through the forest ending with views of Panama City’s skyline. 

• La Cienaguita.  A 1.1km trail through the lush forest leading from end of the Mono Titi trail back to the El Roble trail.  

• Los Caobos.  A 0.8km trail branding off of the El Roble trail and ending at the Visitor Center. This trail passed through dense forest where we spotted monkeys, a sloth and agouti. 

• Getting Here: The park is reachable by bus one stop on the bus from Albrook Station. It can take a little over an hour to reach from Casco Viejo.

Cerro Ancon.  A paved nature trail leading from Mi Pueblito to the city’s tallest natural point. Come here to overlook Casco Viejo, the city’s modern skyscrapers and ships passing through the Panama Canal. 

Soberania National Park.  A large national park in the center of the country located along the Panama Canal. We came here hoping to hike, spot wildlife and watch ships on the Canal. 

Unfortunately after hours of trying to reach certain sights in the park via bus, on foot and Uber, we learned many of the park’s activities are run by private resorts with high ticket prices, require advance reservation or are inaccessible. Tired and a little defeated, we decided to return to Panama City and make the most of our day. 

Markets 

Mercado San Felipe Neri.  A food market with butchers selling locally farmed meats and vendors selling locally grown produce, fruits, eggs, grains, herbs, oils and juices. We shopped for a week’s worth of groceries to cook with at our Airbnb. 

Mercado de Mariscos.  A seafood market with vendor selling piles of whole fish on ice, trays of shrimp, live crab and lobster, queen conch and mixed seafood. We bought a 2 lb Corvina, Panama’s favorite fish, and fried it in traditional methods. Opposite of the market is a second building with restaurants and vendors cooking up the day’s fresh catch. Here we ordered Caribbean shrimp, coconut rice and locals beers from Restaurante Allison.

Avienda Central.  A pedestrian street stretching from Cinco de Mayo station to Casco Viejo  with commercial shops, grocery stores, restaurants, cafes and street vendors selling produce, especially plantains stacked on tables and pineapples in the backs of trucks. 

Where to Eat & Drink 

Casco Mar.  A restaurant along the seaside of Casco Viejo with a Spanish style tapas and paella menu. We sat outside listening to the waves and sounds of the city. To eat, we shared the plantains, passion fruit ceviche, white fish stuffed peppers, coconut flan and the most refreshing mojitos. 

El Santuario.  A very romantic and higher end restaurant built within the ruins of a former monetary. The interior is defined by its exposed stone walls, brick arches, high ceilings, terracotta tiled and patterned wood floors. The menu specializes in Panamanian and Spanish dishes. We shared a seafood paella with scallops, langoustine, mussels and calamari. To drink, we each ordered a glass of red sangria.  

Snack Shack.  A beautiful restaurant in Casco Viejo. W ordered a breakfast bowl of tropical fruits (mango, pineapple, banana and papaya) with a coconut cream sauce as well as a traditional breakfast with fried eggs, toast, potatoes and avocado. There is a Tiki Bar in the garden area at the back of the restaurant. 

Café Unido Casco Viejo.  An old town coffee shop and cafe with Panama grown and roasted beans. 

Vista Corona Panama.  A tropical rooftop restaurant and bar with palm trees, tiki torches, house music, a bar built from a VW bettle and views of the old towns rooftops and spires. We came here to relax with a cocktail after a long day of hiking and busing. Try the rum cocktails like an Old Cuban and Tobaga.

Tantalo Rooftop Bar.  A rooftop bar in Casco Viejo with cocktails and local beers. We came here for sunset drinks overlooking the city’s terracotta roofs, cathedral towers and modern skyscrapers across the bay. Fittingly, we ordered a drink called, Noche en el Casco (Night in The Old Town). 

Pedro Mandinga Rum Bar.  A warmly lit rum bar with a wooden interior and old world charm. The bar features rums from countries across the Caribbean and Central America including Panama and their own distillations. Try a glass neat, order a flight of rums, a classic cocktail or

VIP.  A boutique and juice bar connected to Monos con Arte. Order a fresh Pepa Fria (cold coconut) to enjoy while walking around the old town. 

Where to Shop 

Casco Viejo is a very fashionable place with well dressed locals and tourists, boutiques and clothing shops selling Panama hats, linen clothes, colorful outfits and items made with tropical patterns and natural materials. 

Boho Shack.  A resort style street wear boutique with patterned shirts, shorts and pants. We bought a palm embroidered linen shirt! We’ve also visited their location in Cartagena where the brand is based. 

Bellezas de Panama.  A shop selling Panama hats, hand woven Molas and various souvenirs. We found this location to have the best selection and most affordable authentic Panama hats. The typical price is $40-$45 but the shop owner sold ours to us for $30. 

Mansion Herrera Clothing Shop.  A boutique clothing shop with elegant linen clothes and custom Panama Hats. 

Lu Maca Coffee Shop & Store.  A cafe and clothing store with tropical shirts, accessories and a small selection of Panama Hats. 

The San Blas Islands 

The San Blas Islands are a series of many low lying islands and shills on the Caribbean side of the country. They are a tropical paradise for beach hopping, snorkeling and learning about the Guna Yana indigenous community.

The Guna Yana Indigenous People.  The region is an autonomous zone in Panama home to and managed by the Guna Yana. While here, it’s common to see islands covered in palm reed and thatched houses, women wearing traditional Molas and fishermen paddling between islands in dugout canoes. 

Touring the Islands.  We voyaged into the sea passing palm covered islands, looking back to see views of Panama’s mountains as the spray of the sea misted across our faces. 

Private Island.  After a scenic boat ride, we arrived at a beautiful private island covered in palm trees and surrounded by sandy shores with vibrant blue water and patches of seagrass. 

Sand Bar.  Two hours later, our guides brought us to a shallow sand bar with crystal clear water, star fish and a small coral reef to snorkel above.

Dog Island.  In the early afternoon, we arrived a an island with a sunken ship taken over by a thriving reef with all types of colorful corals and tropical fish. On shore, we were each served a whole fried corvina fish with patacones, fresh fruit and a local beer. 

Isla Diablo.  Towards the late afternoon, we visited one more island for beach time and tropical drinks before returning to Panama City. 

Getting Here:  We booked a tour with Panama San Blas Tours through Viator. Our guide picked us up at 5:15am and drove us 3 hours across the country through verdant forest and hilly terrain to reach the Caribbean coast and San Blas Islands. The last 30min of the drive are nauseating and extremely curvy with steep hills. Overall, the full day tour was incredibly memorable, very relaxing and well organized. 

Taboga Island

The City of Taboga.  Taboga is a colorful town built into the lush hillside of the island with laidback vibes, beaches and hiking trails. Here, locals drive around on golf carts and say hola (hello) or buenas (short for good day) as they pass by. The narrow streets and alleyways are lined with flowering trees and bushes with many light boxes housing statues of the Virgin Mary.

Playa La Restinga.  A clean sandy beach that bridges Taboga and Morro Islands with views of the ship dotted harbor and Panama City skyline in the distance. The shore is covered in pink and white sea shells seen as decor on houses across the island. There are vendors selling beachwear, serving piña coladas in pineapples, preparing fried seafood and renting umbrellas, lounges and boats.

Sendero de Tres Cruzas.  Following the winding walkways up the hillside, we reached the trail head. The trail leads deep into nature so much so that you forget about that a sprawling metropolis is still nearby. As we hiked through the humid forest, we heard the sounds of breaking of branches, the falling of fruit, bussing insects and squawking birds. Along the way, we spotted tarantula, numerous neon green and black poison tree frogs, large iridescent blue butterflies, skittish lizards and spiraling vortexes of vultures. 

Cerro El Vigía.  Sendero de Tres Cruzes leads to an uphill but easy to walk road to the island’s summit, Cerro El Vigía. From the summit, the town of Taboga is dwarfed by the panoramic views of the lush island, hundreds of ships anchored in the bay and city beyond.

Getting Here:  Visiting Taboga is an easy day trip from Panama City. We took the Taboga Express Ferry from the Amador Causeway. Along the 30min boat ride, the ferry passes dozens of anchored freighters and ships from all over the world waiting to enter the Panama Canal. 

What to Eat & Drink 

Cuisine 

• Ceviche.  White fish cured in lime juice with peppers, red onion and cilantro. It’s one of the most poplar dishes seen at restaurants across Panama. 

• Corvina.  A white fish popular in Panama. It’s often grilled or fried whole. 

• Paella.  A pan rice dish cooked in a pan with broth, spices, veggies, and meat. It’s also called One Pot on the Caribbean side of the country. 

• Patacones.  Twice fried and smashed plantain.

• Rice & Beans.  The classic Central American dish made from the two ingredients with spices. 

• Hojaldra.  Fried dough often served at breakfast.

National Beers 

• Balboa.  A semi nutty bear similar to a Modelo. 

• Panamá.  A light beer similar to a Bud Light. 

• San Felipe.  A pretty standard and easy drinking lager. 

Where to Stay 

La Manzana.  A large mixed use building with modern apartment rentals, artist studios and a co-working space. It’s a quick 10 minute walk through the arts district to Casco Viejo. We stayed in well equipped and designed a studio here during our time in Panama City. Book here on Airbnb. 

Getting Around

By Metro.  Panama City has a very modern and efficient metro system with two lines crossing town. We took the metro from the airport to just outside of Casco Viejo neighborhood. 

By MetroBus.  Buses are the most economical way to navigate the Panama City though inefficient. Expect to wait a minimum of 30 to 45 minutes for most lines. 

Albrook Station.  Panama’s Central Terminal for the metro and buses. City buses from here are generally efficient and affordable. There are routes from here to destinations across Panama. 

Tarjeta Recargable Para Metro y Metrobus.  Buy a re-loadable card at any metro station for $2. Fares cost around $0.25 to $0.50 for both metro and metrobus. 

Yellow Cabs.  Taxis are all over the city. Drivers looking for fares will often tap their horn looking for passengers as they drive around the city. 

Uber.  A secure alternative to taxis. Fares cost $1-$10 to get around the city depending on distance and time of day or $20-$30 to/from the airport. 

On Foot. Casco Viejo is very walkable. Any further distances will require public transit or an Uber. 

Panama Stop Over 

We booked our flights with Copa Airlines taking advantage of their stopover program when transiting through Panama City. The airline paid for our flight to Panama City in route to your our destination. Stopovers can last anywhere from a minimum of 24 hours to a maximum of 7 days. We stayed the full 7 days. This saved us hundreds of dollars on flights and allowed us to visit a county that’s been on our list for years! 

Good To Know

• Currency:  Panama uses the Panama Balboa and US dollar interchangeably. They are valued equally.

• Toilets:  Like many places in Central and South America, the plumbing can’t handle toilet paper. If there is a bin next to a toilet, that’s where it’s intended to go.

• Language:  Spanish and English are widely spoken by most people, restaurant menus and most museums have descriptions in both languages. 

• Ticket Prices:  The costs for foreign tourists at most sights and museums are about 20-30% higher.

• Tipping:  10-15% is standard for tipping

• Safety: We found Panama to be a very safe country. People are friendly & helpful. There is a strong tourist police and military presence throughout Panama City, especially the old town, likely due to the president’s residence being here.

• Tourism:  We did not come across a single American tourist. Many people visiting came from across Panama and other country’s in South America. 

• LGBTQ:  Panama is a very welcoming  country to the LGBTQ community. We saw many other gay couples, travelers and tour operators. 

For Next Time…

We loved our time in Panama and with Copa Airline’s Stopover Program, we will certainly be returning. When we do, we hope to visit more areas along the Pacific and Caribbean coasts. 

Coiba National Park.  A bio reserve with beaches, reefs and rainforest. Come to hike the rainforest, snorkel with marine life, swim with whale sharks, surf pacific waves, spot tropical birds, monkeys and sloths. 

Bocas del Toro Archipelago.  A chain of 300 plus Caribbean islands with beaches, coral reefs and surfing spots. It’s hub for Afro-Caribbean cultures with calypso, reggae and soca music and cuisine made from seafood cooked in coconuts and seasoned with spices. Popular islands to visit are Colon, the Bastimentos and Carenero.

Key West, Florida

Key West

Key West is a tropical island at the end of the Florida Keys where roosters roam free, flip flops are worn as dress shoes and beach vibes rule above all else. The key is home to many restaurants, bars, boutique hotels, historic sights, colorful wooden houses and waters dotted with sailboats. 

The Overseas Highway

The Overseas Highway is scenic stretch of road crossing the ocean and connecting the Florida Keys with mainland Florida. We made a day trip of our drive on the highway, stopping at multiple keys along the way.

Tiki Bar at Postcard Inn.  A hotel bar on Islamorada credited with inventing the Rum Runner cocktail. We stopped for a drink to find the restaurant under renovation. 

Robbie’s.  We ordered a Rum Runner here and stopped to hand feed the tarpon swimming around the restaurant’s dock. For $5, we bought a bucket of fish and dangled them over the edge of the dock. Soon after, a tarpon jumped from the water snatching the fish directly from our hands. 

Keys Fisheries.  A restaurant on Islamorada with all manner of fresh caught seafood. We stopped here for their famous lobster ruebens. 

Sea Turtle Hospital.  A sanctuary to rehabilitate rescued sea turtles on Marathon Key. Tour the facility and its tanks of sea turtles. I visited here on a trip to the keys years ago.

7 Mile Bridge.  A stretch of the overseas highway crossing 7 miles of open ocean. Stop at the 7 Mile Bridge Vista to walk onto the pedestrian bridge and overlook and the blue tropical seas. We spotted manatees swimming here. 

Bahia Honda State Park.  We stopped here for some afternoon sun and beach time. We lounged in the shallow waters of Loggerhead and Sandspur beaches.

Big Pine Key.  One of the last keys before reaching Key West. We kept an eye out for the Key Deer, an endangered species of tiny deer native to the island. 

The Conch Republic 

Key West, also called The Conch Republic, is truly an island paradise! While here, eat fried conch fritters and conch ceviche from one of the islands many restaurants, buy a conch shell from a souvenir shop and spot Conch Republic flags flying from local’s homes. 

Sights

Duval Street.  A famed and historic street stretching a mile across the key with seafood restaurants, cocktail bars, Cuban cafes, art galleries and souvenir shops.The north end is the most touristy while the south end is quieter and more local. 

The Old Town.  A historic area with colorful wooden house located at the north end of Duval street. 

Southern Most Point Buoy.  A striped concrete buoy and monument marking the southern most point in the continental US only 90 miles from Cuba. 

Bahamas Village.  A neighborhood in the south side of the key settled by immigrants from the Bahamas. Come to see the colorful houses and tropical gardens. 

The Hemingway Museum.  The former residence of American writer Ernest Hemingway. Tour his home and writing studio where he wrote many of his iconic novels and short stories. Walk through the grounds lush gardens and pet Hemingway’s cats. 

Key West Lighthouse.  A short white lighthouse with a spiral stair case leading to the crown with panoramic views of the key. The light house keeper’s house is a small museum dedicated the history of Key West.

Fort Zachary Taylor Beach.  A park with a coral beach, short nature trails and a civil war era fort. Come here to swim and sunbathe, walk the nature trails and explore the cannon lined red brick and black cement fortress. The beach has a snack & beverage hut renting umbrellas & lounges. Wear beach shoes to avoid the jagged coral lining the beach. Along the shore is a shaded park with picnic tables and grills. 

Higgs Beach.  A small but sandy beach between two piers for snorkeling, swimming and swimming. I came here several years ago on a previous trip to Key West.

Mallory Square.  No night in Key West would be complete without joining hundreds of people and watching the sunset from Mallory Square during the daily sunset festival. Arrive early with a drink in hand as the day ends and the night begins. 

Truman Waterfront Farmers Market. A Thursday afternoon market with vendors selling boozy popsicles, empanadas, samosas, honey, breads, cheeses, vegetables and tropical fruits like dragon fruit, pineapple, papaya, star fruit, lychee & star fruit. 

Where to Eat and Drink

Key West is where “it’s 5 o’clock somewhere” and “island time” meet.  There are many restaurants with laid back vibes and bars serving tropical cocktails. 

Tiki Bar.  A cocktail bar with classic tiki drinks like the Mai Tai, Jungle Bird, Zombie and Hurricane. There is live music nightly, a shop selling tiki mugs and hidden tiki bar in the back.

Eaton Street Seafood Market.  A seafood market and restaurant serving the day’s fresh catch. We came for conch ceviche, stone crab claws and beers from Islamorada Brewing. 

Schooner Wharf Bar.  Come here for the shrimp! They source their shrimp from Key West’s last shrimping boat docked in front of the restaurant. We devoured the coconut shrimp and drunken shrimp, a peel and eat shrimp boiled in beer and spices! 

Speakeasy Inn and Rum Bar.  An inn with several rooms and a rum bar with one of the largest collections of rum in the US. Sip on rum neat the at bar chatting with locals and other vacationers or sit on their porch overlooking Duval Street while enjoying a Painkiller. 

Hemingway Social Club.  A cocktail bar attached to the Hemingway Rum Distillery. Come here for cocktails like a Hemingway Daiquiri made with their house run while listening to the live music.

Cafelito.  A cafe with a walk up window selling iced Cuban coffees and Cuban pastries like the guava and cheese turn over.

Sally Frog’s.  A bar near Malloy Square with cocktails and local beers like the Crazy Lady Honey Blonde Ale brewed at The Waterfront Brewery.

Cuban Coffee Queen.  A small coffee shack by the harbor selling cups of Cuban coffee.

Cocomelon.  A juice bar and cafe selling ice cold fresh coconuts. Come here to sip coconut water from the tropical fruit while relaxing in their patio.

Kermit’s Key Lime Shop.  Come for the key lime pie! They sell it by the slice, whole and frozen on a stick. 

Dry Tortugas National Park

60 miles from Key West are the Dry Tortugas, a national park with several low lying islands, protected marine and avian reserves, a massive civil war fortress, a light house and a campground. 

Fort Jefferson.  An hexagonal three level civil war fort rising from the sea. The historic red brick fort is surrounded by a mote with a large interior court yard and the ruins of many military structures. 

We spent time exploring the 3 levels of the fort. The ground level houses many of the forts supportive facilities like a bakery, cistern and the barracks. The second level was dedicated to the prisoner’s cells and the hospital. The third level is overgrown with trails leading along the wall past cannons and to the fort’s lighthouse. 

Outside of the fort is a mote and wall designed to protect the main fort from the sea. Walk along it to admire its historic outer walls, look out towards the sea and spot tropical fish. 

Beaches.  Outside of the fort, there are two coral beaches to swim at with warm and shallow water. The South Beach was the calmest and clearest for swimming and snorkeling. There is some sea grass, fragments of broken coral throughout the bay. The North Beach was a little choppier with less visibility for snorkeling. 

Snorkeling.  Along the wall of the South Beach, we spotted smaller tropical fish, some living coral, sea anemones, pink jelly fish and the carcus of a giant spiny lobsters.  

Land Bridge.  Walk the tidal land bridge towards the avian reserve of Long Key. The shallow stretch of sand it covered in conch shells, sand dollars and broken coral. Come here to spot pelicans and sand pipers. 

Loggerhead Lighthouse.  A black and white lighthouse visible on the horizon from Fort Jefferson on Loggerhead Key, nearly two miles away.

Camping.  There’s something special about camping on a desert island in the middle of the sea! I camped here overnight on my last trip to Key West and the Dry Tortugas between some of the islands only few trees and bushes. 

Yankee Freedom.  The main company ferrying between Key West and the Dry Tortugas. The ticket includes transit, a tour of the fort, snorkel equipment, breakfast and lunch, cocktails for purchase. 

Getting Here.  It takes 2 hours 30min to reach the Dry Tortugas from Key West with 4 hours on the island. Book in August and September for $50 off an order of 2 tickets. Book here! 

Where to Stay

We stayed at the Speakeasy Inn & Rum Bar! The boutique inn on the south end of Duval Street has two floors of newly renovated rooms and is stumbling distance away from their rum bar. Our stay included free parking, a welcome cocktail and discounted drinks! 

Getting Around 

Key west is very walkable, especially along the mile long stretch of Duval Street. Even so, there are many rentals offering bikes, scooter and golf cart. 

• Bikes $10 / day 

• Scooters $35 / day 

• Golf carts $100 / day 

The Conch Train.  A multi car trolly that rides around the city passing most of the sights with a narrated guide. 

Good to Know 

Locals leave during the month of September to vacation elsewhere. As a result, some restaurants and bars are closed. However, as this is the slow season, many hotels offer deals making the island more affordable to visit.

For Next Time…

We loved our time visiting Key West! We hope to return for more rum cocktails, sunset views and the tropical atmosphere. Outside of Key West, we would love to spend a few nights exploring the other keys more.