St. Croix, USVI Travel Guide: Beaches, Snorkeling & Historic Towns

St. Croix, USVI

St. Croix is the largest of the US Virgin Islands. Its hilly and aired landscape is flanked by turquoise bays, white sand beaches and coral reefs. The former Danish colony is home to historic towns, cannon lined forts and the ruins of old sugar mills. It’s escaped the demands of mass tourism seen on neighboring islands, allowing it to maintain its local atmosphere and sleepy vibes. 

Christiansted

Christiansted is the former Danish capital and main town on St. Croix. Historic pastel painted buildings with contrasting wooden shutters line the town’s streets. Brick sidewalks covered by arched walkways lead past shops selling locally made textiles, jewelry, clothes and souvenirs. A colonial era fort overlooks the boat dotted harbor while a boardwalk meanders past restaurants, bars, dive shops and hotels. It has a small town feeling where chickens roam freely and strangers say hello. 

Christiansted Boardwalk.  A waterfront walkway that snakes along Christiansted’s harbor. It’s a busting place with a series of businesses including dive shops, hotels, restaurants and bars. Many boat tours, fishing charters, dive excursions and seaplanes leave from here. It’s especially lively on weekend evenings.

Fort Christiansvaern.  A well preserved Danish fortress with yellow painted walls, green wooden shutters, wrought iron hinges and a series of cannons pointed towards the sea. Arched passageways lead to the fort’s supportive rooms including the officer quarters, barracks, prisons, power magazine, armory, kitchen and latrine. The second floor offers views of the town and harbor. 

Old Danish Customs House.  A mustard painted colonial era building adjacent to Fort Christiansvaern built to collect taxes during Danish rule. It’s recognizable by its brick “welcoming arms” staircase and symmetrical design. 

Government House Christiansted.  A stately Dutch colonial building used by the former governors of the Danish West Indies. It’s one of three governor’s mansions used but the governor of the US Virgin Islands. 

The Steeple Building.  A 250 year old building with a wooden clock tower. It’s been used as a church, bakery, storehouse and school throughout its lifetime. 

Frederiksted

Frederiksted is a small town on the island’s western shores with Danish colonial buildings, a seaside promenade, historic fort, cruise ship pier and lengthy stretch of sandy beaches. 

Frederiksted Historic District.  A waterfront neighborhood with colorfully painted Danish colonial buildings and covered walkways that lead past dive shops, cafes, restaurants, galleries and hotels. Many of there buildings have been abandoned due to damage from past hurricanes. 

Frederiksted Promenade.  A waterfront park with palm lined walkways, grassy lawns, small monuments and seaside views. Local vendors set up tents selling crafts and offering island tours on days when a cruise ship is docked at the pier. Check the St. Croix Cruise Ship Schedule for dates. 

Fort Frederik.  A red painted fort with an oceanfront wall flanked with cannons. It’s the site of The Emancipation Revolt that led to the end of slavery in the West Indies.

Cruzan Rum Distillery

Cruzan Rum is the island’s most famous rum distillery offering tours, rum tastings and house-made cocktails. The historic property is dotted with industrial facilities, storage warehousers and colonial era buildings including the ruins of the sugar mill. The tour leads through the fermentation facility with large tanks of bubbling liquids, past the distilling tower and into aging warehouses with thousands of stacked oak barrels with aging rums. The tour ends at the bar with a tasting of 8 Cruzan Rums of and 2 cocktails. Book tours online in advance withCruzan Rum. 

Other St. Croix distilleries include: Mutiny Island Vodka, Prosperity Farm Distillery and Captain Morgan Rum.

Jump Up Festival 

Jump Up is a lively street festival celebrating St. Croix’s Afro Caribbean culture. Moko Jumbies walk the streets, performing and dancing to steel drum beats and live soca music. Street food vendors serve local staples like deep fried patés (empanadas), johnny cakes and fritters. Craft vendors and shops sell locally made goods like jewelry, soaps, textiles and souvenirs. The festival is held in the historic center of Christiansted 3 to 4 times a year on Fridays from 6-10pm. Check theSt. Croix Events Calendar for future dates.  

Moko Jumbies are traditional stilt walkers dressed in colorful and elaborately patterned costumes. They are representative of protective spirits meant to lookout for and ward off evil spirits. The tradition has endured across several Caribbean islands, coming from West African origins. 

Snorkeling Points & Beaches 

Buck Island Reef National Monument.  A desert island surrounded by turquoise waters, reef systems and sea grass meadows. White sand beaches wrap around its shores while picky trees and cacti cover its hillside. It’s only accessible by boat from the mainland of St. Croix making it a popular tour destination. 

Turtle Beach.  A pristine white sand beach on the western side of Buck Island with swimmable turquoise waters. The sandy seafloor and sea grass meadows are home to a large array of marine life. Blue ringed flounder hide beneath algae patches, pufferfish and spearfish swim by, starfish and conches lay on the ocean floor, green sea turtles, spotted eagle rays and sting rays glide through the water, ominous barracuda hunt prey and reef squid spray black ink at pursuing fish. 

Eastern Reef.  A reef at the far eastern point of Buck Island home to large formations of coral and tropical fish. Massive schools of blue tang swim between elk horn corals, colorful parrot fish chomp on the reef, cuttle fish glide past rapidly, large barracuda lurk in the currents, juvenile sea turtles swim through the shallow waters and passageways lead to the outer wall of the reef with deep blue waters. 

Big Beard's Adventure Tours. A local tour operator offering full day (6 hour) and half day (4 hour) tours to Buck Island. Full day tours include a barbecue lunch served beachside with hot dogs, burgers, veggie burgers and mahi mahi. Book here. 

Frederiksted Pier.  A lengthy pier with a thriving underwater eco system. The posts under the pier and its freestanding mooring structures are completely covered in all kinds of brightly colored corals,  anemones and sponges. Schools of tropical fish swim beneath it and within the crevices of boulders leading towards it. Star fish sprawl across the sandy sea floor while sting rays and spotted eagle rays hunt for buried prey. 

Getting Here. The pier is the perfect spot for snorkeling and free diving with so much to see just beneath the surface. There is no need to swim out far past the first few posts. Enter the water at the south end of the pier across from the dive shops. Use this Google Map Pin for reference. 

Dorsch Beach.  A white sand beach located south of the Frederiksted Pier. It’s a quiet place to swim, sunbathe and snorkel. Crystal clear waters gradate from aquamarine to deep turquoise. The crevices of rock structures close to shore are home to tropical fish, moray eels, sea spiders and urchins. Juvenile coral formations, sea anemones and more fish are visible further out between the shoreline and double buoys. 

Cane Bay Beach.  A popular beach with a tan sand shoreline flanking the island’s verdant hillside. It’s possible to snorkel here however the deep water corals are best explored by scuba diving. There is a dive shop and multiple restaurants. Visit The Landing Beach Bar or Off The Wall for takeaway drinks and sunset meals.

Rainbow Beach.  A popular white sand beach north of Frederiksted with lounge and umbrella rentals, jet skis and a beach bar. It’s the perfect places to sunbathe, swim and watch the sunset while sipping on a Painkiller from Rhythms Beach Bar. 

Frederiksted Beach.  A beach located just north of Fort Frederik with coral sand shores and swimmable blue waters. It’s empty most days but lined with food trucks and beach chair rentals when a cruise ship is docked. Visit the Aquaholic Beach Bar & Grill for takeaway meals and local beers. 

Sandy Point.  A pristine white sand beach with calm turquoise waters stretching nearly two miles around the island’s southwestern most point. The beach is closed from April to August for sea turtle nesting. Though we couldn’t visit the beach, we had a beautiful view of it from the airplane window as we landed. 

Hikes & Lookout Points 

Goat Mountain.  A hilltop lookout with views of the verdant east end of the island and coastline. A gravel trail leads steadily uphill through dry forest home to prickly trees and flowering cacti. Chirping birds sing in the trees while the tiny St. Croix ground lizard jumps between rocks. The trail forks at the hillside’s saddle, leading up towards the summit or downhill towards Jack’s Bay and Isaac’s Bay. 

Getting Here.  The summit is reachable after a 40 minute hike from the Very Long Baseline Array Telescope. The trail is accessible from just beyond its gated enclosure. Use this Google Map Pin to locate it. 

Pro Tip.  Plan to hike in the early morning, starting at 7am to avoid extreme UV and excessive heat.

Point Udall.  The “easternmost point” of the United States. It’s marked by a large stone sundial on a hilltop with views of the surrounding coast. Beware of swarms of bees!  

Places to Eat & Drink

Mutiny Island Vodka Mill Bar.  A tasting room for Mutiny Island Vodka built into an old sugar mill tower on the Christiansted Boardwalk. Visit during their daily happy hour from 4-6pm for a $10 tasting of each of the 8 flavors or a $5 cocktail made with any Mutiny Island vodka of your choice.

Thomas Bakery.  A local bakery serving breads and pastries like cinnamon rolls, titi bread, raisin buns and coconut buns. Arrive early before the sell out. 

Crucian Coffee Club.  A coffee shop with flavorful brews, fresh baked pastries and a selection of Crucian patés like vegetable, conch and chicken.  

Toast Diner.  A breakfast and brunch diner with arepa sandwiches, hash brown casseroles and rum cake french toast. It’s open early, making it the perfect place to eat prior to touring Buck Island. 

Rhythms at Rainbow Beach.  A popular beachfront restaurant at Rainbow Beach. It’s the perfect spot to order a takeaways meal while lounging on the beach or stay for dinner and the sunset. Order the lobster tacos, coconut shrimp and fish sandwich. 

The Landing Beach Bar at Cane Bay.  A restaurant at Cane Bay Beach with local Leatherback beers and dishes like wahoo fish & chips, the crispy fish reuben and rum cake sampler. 

Off The Wall.  A beachfront kiosk with an outdoor patio overlooking the Caribbean. Come for sunset cocktails and island bites like shrimp ceviche, fried mahi bites and homemade salsas served with chips. 

Aquaholic Beach Bar & Grill.  A beachfront kiosk at Frederiksted Beach serving local beers, rum cocktails, grilled foods, salads and burgers. 

Levels.  A live music bar with nightly performers and Caribbean vibes. Visit on the weekends to listen and dance to calypso, jazz and salsa while sipping on island drinks, mocktails or local beers. 

Breakers Roar Tiki Bar.  A former tiki bar offering standard island cocktails like the painkiller, mojito and dark & stormy. They’ll still serve drinks in traditional tiki mugs if you ask. For food, they share the same menu as Harbor Prime. Order the fish and chips, crab cakes and lobster bisque. 

The Bombay Club.  A restaurant nestled inside of a colonial building with stone tunnels and stone walled dining rooms. Their full menu offers all types of mains but their specialty is seafood. Come here for the conch curry, mahi mahi sandwich and grilled lobster. 

Tropical Ice Goddess.  An ice cream shop with tropical and local flavors like soursop, cinnamon, coconut, dulce de leche and rum raisin.

Crucian Cuisine 

St. Croix has a mixture of West Indie & Caribbean flavors brought to the island by different cultures and influences. 

Patés (Empanadas).  Deep fried pastries shaped like half moons and filled with a range of stewed vegetables, seafood or meats. 

Conch.  A sea snail famed for its large shells and succulent meat. It’s served in fritters, soups, curries and sautéed. 

Pot Fish.  A Crucian style of tropical reef fish, typically red snapper pr parrot fish, caught in a wire basket or pot. It can be deep fried, grilled or streamed and is typically served with creole sauce and a side or rice, fried or fungi. 

Chop up.  A vegetable mixture made of stewed or sautéed okra, spinach and eggplant. 

Titi Bread.  A local style of bread baked with pointed ends shaped like nipples.

Johnny Cakes.  A lightly fried and doughy biscuit often served at breakfast. 

Rum Cake.  A Caribbean cake baked with rum and often glazed in pineapple syrup. 

Leatherback Beer.  A beer brewed in the USVI and sold at most restaurant and bars in St. Croix.

Mutiny Island Vodka.  A local distillery making vodka from breadfruit infused with different island flavors like scotch bonnet pepper, ginger lime, hibiscus passionfruit and Caribbean roots. 

Painkiller.  A cocktail originating in the Virgin Island made from rum, pineapple juice, coconut cream and orange juice. It’s found on almost every cocktail menu on the island. 

Location Specifics

Pleasantries.  St. Croix is a small island and people here place extra emphasis on pleasantries like saying “hello” or “good morning.” Many people will often stop to chat, strike up conversation or simply help provide direction if you seem lost. 
Stay Hydrated.  The island can get very hot during the afternoon. Drink plenty of water throughout the day, while snorkeling or hiking.  

Reef Safe Sunblock.  Wear reef safe sunblock while snorkeling or swimming to minimize damage to the corals and coastal ecosystems. Many dive shops on the island sell it. 

US Territory.  The US Virgin Islands are as US territory. American citizens do not need a passport to visit, the island uses the US dollar and English the most commonly spoken language. 

Driving in St. Croix

Driving in St. Croix is one of the best ways to see all corners of the island on your own schedule. The island can be driven from end to end in less than an hour. We rented a car from Centerline Car Rental for the long weekend. The company is well reviewed and prices are fair compared to other rental agencies. 

Drive on the Left.  People drive on the left side of the road using left hand vehicles throughout the US Virgin Islands. 

Road Conditions.  Most main roads are well maintained. Beware of pot holes, especially on side roads and at night. 

Car Break-Ins.  Do not leave anything valuable or visible inside your vehicle. Car break-ins are common across the island. Keep windows rolled down while parked and keep your doors unlocked to prevent broken windows. 

Free Parking.  Parking is free throughout all of St. Croix. We used two central lots in both main towns without issue. In Christiansted, park at the Boardwalk Parking and in Frederiksted, park at Lagoon St Parking.

For Next Time… 

A long weekend was just enough time to get a taste for everything St. Croix has to offer and come up with a list of what to do next time we visit the island.

Ham’s Bluff Lighthouse.  A rusted out and abandoned lighthouse with coastal views of the northwest coast. The lighthouse is reachable after a 30 minute hike from the trail head at the end of Hams Bluff Road. 

Annaly Bay Tide Pools.  A series of swimmable tide pools reachable after a 1 hour hike. Start at the Trumbull Trail Head near the Carambola Beach Resort. Bring water shoes to avoid the sharp rocks and sea urchins. Don’t visit during high tide. 

Salt River Bay National Historic Park.  A river and bay with mangrove forests, bioluminescent jellyfish, glowing plankton, hiking trails and secluded beaches. Nighttime tours in clear kayaks are offered 10 days before and after the new moon.

Carambola Zip Line.  A zip line park with 3 zip lines, including “The Gauntlet,” a 2,473 ft long and 205 ft steep line over the Carambola Valley. 

Protestant Cay.  A small island offshore from Christiansted with a hotel and public beach. A water taxi leaves regularly from the board walk in front of the Harbor Prime restaurant for $5. 

Cane Bay Wall.  A trench along the continental shelf popular with scuba divers. It’s reachable from the shore of Cane Bay Beach. The Sweet Bottom Dive Center offers introductory dive courses and scuba rentals.

Estate Whim Plantation Museum.  A restored sugar mill converted into a museum with exhibits on the mill’s history and the island’s involvement in the Transatlantic Slave Trade.

Prosperity Farm Distillery.  A distillery producing gins and liquors like all spice dram, banana liquor, ginger liquor and amaro from sugarcane. They offer tours and tastings daily from 10am-3:30pm every half hour. 

Southwest USA Road Trip Guide: National Parks & Desert Landscapes

The American Southwest 

The American Southwest is a playground of incredible rock formations, other worldly deserts and endless highways. The region overlaps several states, includes many Native American reservations and is home to some of the country’s most cherished National Parks. 

An American Road Trip 

There’s something so freeing and spontaneous about road trips: listening to good music, driving with the windows down, stopping at roadside attractions and ordering drive through meals. Starting in Los Angeles, we spent 10 days driving along sections of Old Route 66 across Southern California, Arizona and Utah. 

Southern California 

Our roadtrip through Southern California led us from Los Angles into to desert. We passed roadside attractions, hiked through national parks and visited forgotten communities. 

Santa Monica Pier 

The Santa Monica Pier made for a fitting place start to our roadtrip, being the point where the historic Route 66 meets the Pacific Ocean. The wooden pier is buzzing with electronic violinists, fishermen and neon lights from vintage amusement park rides. It boasts coastal views of the ocean and tan sand shore line stretching along the Pacific Coast Highway. 

The Lobster Restaurant.  A seafood restaurant at the entrance of the Santa Monica Pier with dishes like grilled lobster, lobster mac and cheese and lobster rolls, all best paired with a Pacifico beer. 

Randy’s Donuts 

An landmark donut shop, easily recognized by the massive donut resting on top of its roof. It’s been featured in video games, movies, tv shows and referenced across Hollywood. We ordered coffees and a dozen donuts to begin our first morning on the road!

Cabazon Dinosaurs

Located just off the highway in Cabazon, CA, these dinosaurs captured our attention and imagination. This roadside attraction, considered to be one of the greatest, features two giant dinos: A brachiosaurus named Dinny the Dinosaur and a t-rex named Mr. Rex. We reveled at, walked under, around and even climbed inside both of them. 

Joshua Tree National Park

Joshua Tree National Park is one of the United States most treasured landscapes, home to exotic desert plant life, giant boulders and hiking trails. It’s famed for its namesake, the Joshua Tree, a multi-armed, spike leaved, desert growing plant. They are a fragile and enduring symbol the the Mojave Desert where the park resides, thriving in harsh conditions with little water and persistent sunlight.

Hiking Trails & Desert Sights 

Park Blvd.  The main road in Joshua Tree National Park. Several hiking trails branch off from it, meandering across the desert landscape and connecting with other trails. Choosing a trail head with available parking, we began hiking the South Side Connector Trail and later merging with the Big Foot Trail. We spent hours hiking through a forest of Joshua Trees, along side large rock formations and through an area with a wash where we saw a desert tortoises. 

Willow’s Hole Trail.  Considered one of Joshua Tree’s most scenic hikes. The trail offers a variety of the entire Joshua Tree landscape ending at a desert oasis surrounded by willow trees. The first half of the trial is relatively flat, surrounded by large rock formations, Joshua Trees, desert plants and countless whitetail and jackrabbits. The second half of the trail winds through a canyon with incredible cliffs and washes before ending at the peaceful oasis. During the return hike, we enjoyed golden hour illuminating the terrain and watched as the sunset painted the sky in an array of colors. 

Pro Tip.  Begin in the late afternoon to avoid peak heat, planning to finish the hike around sunset.

Good to Know.  The hike spans more than 7 miles round trip and takes about 4 hours at a normal pace. Be prepared to climb over large boulders to avoid floods parts of the trail. 

Chola Cactus Garden.  Located midway along Pinto Basin Road is this incredible cactus garden filled with Chola cacti. Watch your step along the trail and don’t touch them. 

Pinto Basin Road.  A scenic road leading from the north end to south end of the park, taking about an hour to drive. Most Joshua Trees are located in the High Mojave Desert in the north while the Colorado Desert to the south is known for its its cacti patches. 

Pinto Basin.  A vast swath of cacti covered desert and mountains. It’s easily viewed from the Pinto Basin Road.

Ocotillo Patch.  Located near the south end of Pinto Basin road is an extensive patch of Ocotillo Cacti. These massive cacti grow several feet high and gracefully sway in the wind.

Skull Rock.  An eroded rock formation that resembles the shape of a human skull.

The Night Sky.  The High Mojave Desert is located far enough from any major cities making light pollution very minimal and offering incredible night sky views. 

Joshua Tree Essentials 

Maps & Park Pass. Stop at one of the Visitor Centers to buy a park pass and map. Ask a ranger for recommendations on where to hike based on what you want to do or see. Visit the National Park Service for detailed info on Joshua Tree and its trails. Alternatively, set up an account with All Trails for detailed info on all of the parks routes with info curated by other hikers. 

What to Bring

• Water

• Trail Snacks

• Sunblock & Sunglasses 

• Flashlight 

• Map 

Where to Stay

There’s no shortage of places to stay in and around Joshua Tree. The park itself has a few campgrounds while many quaint desert resorts, motels and unique stays surround the park. 

Joshua Tree Airstream.  A traditional Airstream camper set amongst the shrub covered desert landscape. The cozy space is fully equipped with two beds, a communal area, kitchen, toilet and shower. It’s located less than 30 minutes from the West Entrance Station. Book on Airbnb.

Salvation Mountain 

Salvation Mountain is a massive art piece located in the California Desert started by Leonard Knight in the mid 80s. The site is inspired by the scriptural passages with the simple message, “god is love.” Love, in our opinion is the true theme of this place. The mountain is covered in colorful and peaceful imagery of waterfalls, flowers and the yellow brick road centered around the most prominent word, love, situated above a giant heart. The structure is built from a mixture of hay, packed clay and layers of paint.

Slab City & East Jesus 

Located just beyond Salvation Mountain are two off the grid alternative living communities, Slab City and East Jesus.

Slab City.  A community named for remnants of concrete slabs left behind after the demolition of a military training camp. The slabs are home to RVs, permanent trailers, make shift buildings and piles of debris. Many of the folks who live here have come to live off the grid while others are here as a result of poverty. There is no electricity, running water, waste management or local government. Despite that, there is a certain since of community with its own library, golf course, clubs and music venues. 

East Jesus.  A sustainable and habitable art installation focused on creative re-use. The experimental community is built from discarded materials and salvaged waste. It’s inhabited by artists, musicians, writers and other creatives. We spent hours wandering, observing and talking with some of the locals to get a better perspective on the place. Come here with an open mind. There is no where else quite like it. 

Salton Sea & Bombay Beach 

The Salton Sea.  An ancient lake bed, accidentally flooded during the early 20th Century, now contaminated with agricultural runoff. The shrinking body of water and its shoreline is covered in the decomposing remains of fish, dried clay and salt deposits. 

Bombay Beach.  A once thriving seaside community catering to celebrities, retirees and vacationers during the mid 20th Century. The town, now mostly forgotten is a place stunted in its growth yet still inhabited by a small number of families and artists. We passed a man painting television screens on the street, two children seamlessly sweeping dirt for leisure and a woman sitting alone on a chair in the middle of an empty lot. Many homes have been left behind due to the toxicity of the sea and damage caused by the salinity in the air. A sobering place that should’t be overlooked or looked down upon. 

Northern Arizona 

Our roadtrip through Northern Arizona led us to some of the United States greatest natural wonders and pre-Columbian ruins.

The Grand Canyon 

The Grand Canyon is revered as one of the greatest natural sights on Earth. Its size, at 1 mile deep and up to 18 miles wide, reveals millions of years of layered sediment and orange hued rock. We overlooked the South Rim of the canyon during the middle of a blizzard, unable to see much through the white out, we laughed and vowed to return one day!

Horseshoe Bend

Horseshoe Bend is a 1,000 foot steep bend of the the Colorado River in the shape of a horseshoe. It’s a breathtaking and truly awe inspiring place. We spent the late afternoon wandering the rim and admiring its beauty. Located just off the highway outside of Paige, AZ and accessible by a 1.5 mile hike. The overlook is open daily from sunrise to sunset. Bring cash for the entrance fee. 

Lake Powell & Navajo Canyon 

Lake Powell is a manmade lake created by the Glenn Canyon Dam with over 2000 miles of shoreline. One of the best ways to experience it is by boat. Rent an boat from the Antelope Point Marina to explore the lake. Visit Navajo Canyon, a 16 mile long canyon with massive orange and brown cliffs ranging in height on all sides. The canyon is fairly wide but narrows in areas with tiny offshoots, carefully accessible by boat. 

Navajo Cliff Dwellings 

The Navajo Cliff Dwellings, also called The Betatakin Cliff Dwellings, are one of the best surviving examples of pre-Colombian civilization in the American Southwest. At its peak nearly 800 years ago, it was home to hundreds of people and contained over 120 sandstone structures built into the protected cliffside. The cave dwellings can be viewed from an observation point at the end of a short hike from the Navajo National Monument Visitor Center. 

Southern Utah 

Our roadtrip brought us into the southern sliver of Utah, a part of the state overlapped by the Navajo Nation and defined by its dramatic buttes. 

Monument Valley 

Monument Valley offers views of the most quintessential western landscapes and scenery. The valley is comprised of towering buttes and crumbling rock formations that rise from the orange hued desert landscape. Many of the buttes and mesas are visible from roadside overlooks within and outside the Tribal Park.

Sentinel Mesa.  A desert plateau and cliff formation with dramatic views overlooking Monument Valley’s three most famous buttes: West Mitten Butte, East Mitten Butte and Merrick Butte. The observation point is reachable by hiking a trail at the end of Sentinel Mesa Road. Always ask for permission to park or hike on private property. 

Stay in a Navajo Hogan.  A Hogan is a traditional Navajo home, once common throughout the tribal nation. These domed huts are built from cedar structures covered in layers of sand and clay to provide insulation from the heat and cold. Most Navajo People live in modern homes today but keep a Hogan on their property for guests and ceremonial purposes. Staying in one in the middle of Monument Valley was an unforgettable experience. It’s interior was rustic, with beds covered in Navajo blankets and a central wood burning stove. Our particular Hogan was built in 1934 and has been maintained ever since. Book here on Airbnb!

Try Navajo Frybread.  A round piece of flat dough deep fried until golden and puffy. It’s often made and served hot as a sweet or savory snack. Visit the San Juan Trading Post & Cafe in the town of Mexican Hat for their version, The Navajo Taco, with frybread covered in bean, tomato, lettuce, onion and cheese. For something sweet, order the Sweet Frybread, lightly covered in a sugary syrup. 

Forest Gump Hill

Forest Gump Hill is a scenic stretch of road that disappears into the horizon of Monument Valley. It’s been made famous by many Western movies and Hollywood films, most notably, Forest Gump. It’s here where Tom Hank’s character stopped running after 4 years crossing the country. It even has its own emoji. 

Mexican Hat

Mexican Hat is a rock formation named after a large flat rock, precariously balanced on top of a small vertical base protruding from the hillside, described as resembling a mariachi’s sombrero. Hiking trails lead around the base and underside of the “hat.” From here, there are beautiful views of the green and orange hillside carved out by the San Juan River.

Central Arizona 

Central Arizona is home to desert landscapes, meteor craters and national parks, much of it reachable along Old Route 66 (now Interstate 40).

Old Route 66

Old Route 66 is one of the most famous and nostalgic roads in the United States. It’s dotted with numerous small towns, roadside attractions, motels and diners. 

Holbrook, Arizona.  A small town along Old Route 66 famed for its roadside attractions, western history and Americana charm. The main street is lined with old buildings surviving from the wild west, a tee pee themes motels, retro roadsigns, several rock shops and attention grabbing roadside dinosaurs. 

Wigwam Motel.  A historic motel famed for its concrete and steel formed tee pees lined with vintage cars and a retro neon road sign. The motel has 15 tee pees, each acting as their own guest room. The stay was incredibly cute and felt like we had transported to a different era. Book here!

Winslow, Arizona.  A historic town along Old Route 66 made famous by The Eagles 1972 hit, “Take It Easy,” featuring the lyrics “I'm a-standin' on a corner in Winslow, Arizona.” Drive through the town to stand on said corner as the song plays on repeat over loud speakers.

Mr D'z Route 66 Diner.  A classic greasy spoon and retro style Americana style diner with an extensive menu of omelettes, sandwiches and milkshakes. It’s interior is decorated with teal and pink upholstered booths, black and white checkered floors, framed pictures and vintage memorabilia. 

The Roadkill Cafe/O.K. Saloon.  A famed restaurant along Old Route 66 with American style comfort foods like burgers, sandwiches and baked potatoes. It’s pine paneled interior is decorated with all kinds of taxidermy animals and vintage signs.

Barringer Meteor Crater

The Barringer Metror Crater is a giant impact crater formed over 50,000 years ago, measuring nearly a mile across and over 500 feet deep. The crater is accessible to view through the park’s visitor center and has two observation decks on its rim. Within the visitor center are a large number of meteorites on display as well as small fragments of it for sale.

Meteor City.  An abandoned roadside attraction near the Barringer Metror Crater. It was started in the late 30s as a gas station, grocery store and souvenir stand along the Old Route 66.It’s an eerie spot to walk around and watch trains pass by.

Petrified Forest National Park 

The Petrified Forest is a National Park covers a vast area of desert that was once home to an ancient rainforest. Preserved under the soil and exposed due to erosion are the remains of fossilized trees from the forest that existed over 200 million years ago. Some of the trees are so well preserved that you can count the rings and feel the grain of the bark. 

Blue Mesa.  An area of the Petrified Forest eroded by rain revealing colorful bands of blue, purple, grey and red soil as well as the petrified wood. Drive around its loop and hike the Blue Mesa Trail, an area with massive logs and fragments of the fossilized trees laying across the ground. It was crazy to think that we were walking across land where the dinosaurs roamed and a forest thrived over 200 million years ago. 

Southern Arizona

Southern Arizona is a dry and aired place, defined by its towering Saguaro cacti, desert landscapes and Southwestern cities. 

Saguaro National Park 

Located within in the Sonoran Desert outside of Tucson is Saguaro National Park, home to the Saguaro Cactus. The Saguaro is the classic symbol of the Southwest with its tall waxy green trunk and multiple arms. The park is divided into two separate districts located on opposite sides of Tucson. The Tucson Mountain District to the West and The Rincon Mountain District to the East. 

The Rincon Mountain District.  The eastern half of Saguaro National Park with a drivable loop and hiking trails with views of the Sonoran Desert and it’s towering Saguaro Cacti. It’s easy to spend an entire day here. 

Cactus Forest Drive.  An loop road leading through the The Rincon Mountain District. Its a scenic way to see a vast region of the park, lined with hiking trails, observation points and picnic areas. 

Cactus Forest Trail.  A lengthy trail meandering across the desert terrain densely populated with mature saguaros. Beware of diamond back rattle snakes slithering across the trail. 

Pro Tip. Wear sunblock and bring plenty of water for hiking, especially during the peak afternoon hours. 

Tucson’s Barrio Viejo 

Tucson’s Barrio Viejo is a historic neighborhood and one of the city’s first. It’s influenced by Mexican American influences with old adobe buildings, all painted vibrant colors and landscaped with desert cacti. Spend time walking around the barrio, imaging what it would be like to live in such a stunning place. 

Driving in The American Southwest

We spent 10 days driving thousands of miles around the American Southwest and its seemingly endless highways. Below are some tips for a making a smooth roadtrip. 

Maps.  Download offline maps and plan your route. Ask for an old school paper map from the rental agency or pick one up at a rest stop as a back up. 

Distance.  The southwest is a vast region of the country. Expect to drive hundreds of miles a day and thousands during the course of a multi-day to two week roadtrip. 

Gasoline.  Keep your tank at least half full. There are vast stretches without any gas stations. 

Be Spontaneous.  Give yourself extra time to get around and expect to make unexpected stops at roadside attractions and lookout points. Expect the occasional detour. 

Weather.  Check the forecast prior to driving, especially in the mountains. It’s not fun to get trapped in a blizzard.

Playlist.  Have plenty of music or audio books teed up for the long drive and days in the car. 

For Next Time…

The American Southwest is a vast region of the country where endless roads criss cross dramatic landscapes, small towns, big cities and historic sights. If we had more time, there is so much more we would see and do. Below is an extensive list of some of those places: 

The Pacific Coast Highway.  A coastal road stretching hundreds of miles along California’s Pacific Coast. 

Palm Springs.  A California town famed for it’s retro and mid-century style architecture, palm lined boulevards and desert landscapes. 

Pioneer Town.  An 1880s themed western town with dirt roads, wooden buildings, saloons and wanted posters. 

Sequoia National Park.  A California park with a forest of towering sequoia redwood trees, including the, General Sherman Tree, the world’s largest living tree. 

Death Valley National Park.  Considered one of the hottest and driest places on Earth with summer time temperatures often exceeding 120 degrees fahrenhrit, especially in Furnace Creek. 

Antelope Canyon.  A picturesque, narrow and winding sandstone canyon. It can only accessed via a Navajo guide. 

Vermilion Cliffs.  A sweeping wave of orange and golden shades of sandstone.

Beaver Falls & Havasu Falls.  Two turquoise waterfalls hidden in the middle of Arizona’s desert landscape on the Havasupai Reservation. 

Sedona, Arizona.  A desert town with striking rock formations, pine forests and breathtaking hiking trails, including the Devil’s Bridge Trail.

Santa Fe, New Mexico.  A historic and artsy pueblo with galleries, museums and adobe landmarks. 

White Sands National Park.  A sprawling desert park with white sand dunes cresting across the horizon. 

Taos Pueblo.  An adobe city, home to the Taos Pueblo people, dating back over 1,000 years. 

Zion National Park.  A national park with verdant oases, emerald river pools, steep canyons and hiking trails including Angles Landing. 

Bryce Canyon.  A dramatic canyon filled with hundreds of red and orange sandstone spires. 

Arches National Park.  A national park with over 2,000 naturally formed sandstone arches. 

Bonneville Salt Flats.  The location of an ancient salt lake with a crystalline salt crust covering its floor. 

Dinosaur National Monument.  A reserve with hundreds of paleontological sights and fossilized dinosaurs. 

New Orleans Travel Guide: Food, Jazz & Local Culture

New Orleans, Louisiana

New Orleans is a historic city with a lively, liberal and romantic atmosphere. We fell in love with NOLA so much so that it’s where we decided to get married! Between visiting venues and wedding planning, we spent time indulging in the city’s unique Cajun cuisine and Creole flavors, riding the street car down oak lined boulevards, walking through residential neighborhoods to look at the colorful cottages, listening to Jazz echo from the bars while drinking in the streets and learning more about the city’s past. Above all, New Orleans is a place to relax and celebrate, one of the many reason we chose to it for our wedding day!

Explore the Neighborhoods & Streets

The French Quarter.  The Quarter is the historic center of New Orleans with Spanish and French architecture, gas lit lanterns and cobble stone streets. It’s a hub for live Jazz, all night cocktail bars and Creole cuisine. We loved wandering its quiet side streets as well as bar hopping on Bourbon Street. 

Bourbon Street. The city’s most well known street located in the French Quarter. This street is often packed with people flaunting Mardi Gras beads, having the fortunes read and ordering to-go drinks from the colorfully lit all night bars. It gets a bit crazy but is worth visiting at least once.

Lavender Line.  Not technically a street but it encompasses a number of gay bars in the French Quarter north of Bourbon Street, many along St. Ann Street. Some of our favorites are Café Lafitte in Exile and Good Friends Bar.

The Garden District.  A residential district flanked between Magazine St. and St. Charles Ave. The neighborhood is home to historic mansions and cottages, large oak trees and leafy palms. It’s a beautiful neighborhood to explore on foot or along the St. Charles Street Car. 

Magazine Street.  One of the city’s Main Streets with restaurants, bars, boutiques, art galleries, vintage shops and creole architecture. It’s about 6 miles long, stretching from The French Quarter through The Garden District and into Uptown. Every stretch of it is well worth exploring. 

Irish Channel.  Located between Magazine Street and the Mississippi River, this cute residential neighborhood has many of our favorites restaurants, cafes and bars. There are lots of great places to stay at here. 

Freret Street. An Uptown street with restaurants, coffee shops, boutiques and bars. We happened to visit during the annual Freret Street Festival. All weekend long, local businesses set up tents and trailers serving everything from to-go drinks, barbecue, paella and tacos. 

Marigny.  This beautiful neighborhood, just outside of the French Quarter, is a charming place to walk through to look at the brightly colored Creole cottages and shotgun houses. There are also lots of great Airbnb’s here. Come for Frenchman Street, the artists markets and local restaurants. 

ByWater.  Basically an extension of Marigny, this neighborhood is a little more bohemian and hipster with flea markets, cafes, cocktail bars and funky restaurants. 

Arts/Warehouse District.  A former warehouse district converted into a hub for cocktail bars, high end restaurants and art galleries. 

Uptown.  A broad area on the Riverside of New Orleans. Visit Maple and Oak Streets for the restaurants and nightlife. Both areas are popular with Tulane and Loyola students.

Things to Do 

Have a Second Line.  Looking to celebrate like a local? Have a Second Line. It’s New Orleans traditional New Orleans parade usually used celebrate weddings or remember someone’s life. We had one during our wedding and paraded around the neighborhood near our venue leading it with the brass band, our 50+ guests and a police escort following behind. Photo credit, Brandon Xuereb at Xistence Photography. 

Jazz on Frenchman Street.  This is the place to be for dancing and live Jazz. There are a number of late night bars, creole restaurants and artist markets to make for a memorable night. It’s much tamer and more authentic than the famed Bourbon Street. 

Ride the St. Charles Street Car.  The street car follows St. Charles Avenue, an oak tree lined street covered in Mardi Gras beads. The street car is the perfect way to get across town while admiring the historic homes and mansions in the Garden District.

Beignets at Cafe du Monde.  Visit the original location, located in the French Market, the most famous place to order a beignet and cafe au lait. We were lucky enough to visit while a brass band was playing out front.  

• Beignets are fried rectangular pieces of dough covered in powdered sugar. 

• Cafe au Lait is French for coffee with milk. 

Enjoy Creole Cuisine.  A mix of West African, Indigenous American, French and Spanish flavors. Some of our favorite dishes are gumbo, catfish po’boys and charbroiled oysters. 

Order a To-Go Daiquiri.  Almost every bar on Bourbon St. offers a selection of frozen daiquiris made to go. As long as it’s in a plastic container, it’s legal to publicly drink anywhere in New Orleans.

Sunsets at Lake Pontchartrain.  Visit Breakwater Park on Lake Pontchartrain to watch the sunset. The calm shallow waters reflect every color in the sky. Afterwards, there are a number of seafood restaurants nearby to enjoy dinner.

Visit a Cemetery.  The dead in New Orleans are buried above ground in elevated plots or mausoleums because the city sits below sea level. We walked thorough the rows of St. Joseph Cemetery and Lafayette Cemetery No. 2. Both of which were open and free to tour. 

Armstrong Park.  A park on the edge of the French Quarter with walkways and bridges that meander over bayou-like waterways and ponds. Statues and sculptures of Jazz legends and musicians celebrate New Orleans’ musical culture, African heritage and Black History.

Audubon Park.  A spacious city park and green space with towering oak trees covered in Spanish moss, meandering and shaded walks ways, swan inhabited ponds and views of the Mississippi River. 

Walk Down Crescent Park.  A riverfront park located along the Mississippi with a 1.4mile path. Watch the ships pass by and sound their fog horns. Afterwards, cross the “Rusty Rainbow Bridge” into the ByWater neighborhood. 

Cross The Mississippi.  There is a ferry located along the river front at the end of Canal Street that crosses the Mississippi to Algiers Point. It’s a quiet neighborhood to enjoy a po’boy, view the skyline and walk the levy.

See Some Art

NOMA (New Orleans Museum of Art).  The museum has a great collection of Southern, French and Modern painting, historic and multi-cultural artifacts and a remarkable sculpture garden with beautifully landscaped grounds. There is also a rotating gallery, it had a LGBTQ+ photography exhibit when we visited. 

New Orleans Jazz Museum.  A museum teaching about the origin of Jazz, some of its most notable musicians and its importance in New Orleans. 

New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum.  A tiny but educational museum in the French Quarter with many voodoo artifacts and altars. It’s a great place to visit and learn more about the religion. They also offer cemetery tours and bone readings.

Go Shopping 

Frenchman Arts Bazaar.  A nightly market located on Frenchman Street where artists sell illustrations, sculptures, jewelry, decor and perform live music. 

Voodoo Authentica.  A voodoo shop with a dimly lit interior, small shrines, handmade voodoo dolls, figurines, charms, candles and incense. It’s an educational place to learn more about the modern practice of Voodoo. 

The French Market.  A market under a series of sheds in the French Quarter with food stands, to-go bars, live jazz performances, booths selling a range of items including Creole seasonings, fresh produce, Mardi Gras masks, voodoo dolls and colorful beads. Visit the original Cafe du Monde for sugary beignets. 

Get Out of the City

Outside of New Orleans, there are a number of mini excursions to go on. We booked ours with Cajun Encounters, a local tour company. 

Swamp Tours

New Orleans is surrounded by swamps that have had a large influence on they city’s architecture, industry and cuisine. They are also natural buffers that offer protection from hurricanes. We visited the Honey Island Swamp where we saw wild bores, alligators, cypress trees and Spanish moss while boating through the bayous and past swamp houses. 

Plantation Tours

Educate yourself on the history of slavery. New Orleans’ past is one we chose to learn more about while visiting. About an hour up-river are a number of plantations offering tours. We visited the Oak Alley Plantation, named for its row of 300 year old oak trees.Here, we learned about the lives of the enslaved people that were forced to labor here, the conditions they lived in and the African influences they brought with them. There is also a great restaurant here. Order a Po’boys and a flight of Mint Juleps!

Pro Tip.  Book a tour or drive here yourself. Uber and Lyft don’t drive to this area.

Taste Everything!

If you come to New Orleans for one thing, come for the cuisine! There are so many dishes and drinks unique to this city alone. These are some of favorites:

Po’Boy.  A classic Louisiana sandwich made on crispy bun with a fluffy center. It always has a protein, usually seafood, and comes “fully dressed” with lettuce, tomato, a pickle and mayo. 

Crawfish Mac n Cheese.  A Cajun classic made with crawfish tails, rich gooey cheese and macaroni noodles. 

Shrimp and Grits.  A classic breakfast dish with creamy buttery grits and tender Gulf shrimp. 

Fried Catfish.  A slightly gamey and flaky white fish. We often ordered it on a Po’boy.

Gumbo.  A traditional soup to New Orleans often eaten from October through March. It’s a savory melting pot of flavors and cultures having influences from the Indigenous Choctaw, West Africans, French and Spanish. 

Chargrilled Oysters.  Gulf Coast oysters that have been grilled with herbs and cheese.

The Holy Trinity.  A twist on the French mirepoix, made of onion, celery and bell peppers. It’s base to many dishes.

King Cake.  Traditionally served during Mardi Gras, it’s a green, yellow and purple glazed cake. 

The Sazerac.  A sipping cocktail made from whiskey, cognac and absinthe usually garnished with a lemon peel. 

The Hurricane.  A sweet, fruity, tropical rum drink served in a tall curved glass. 

Hand Grenade.  A cocktail served on Bourbon St. by a few specific bars. It’s a very sweet drink served in a tall neon green plastic container with the shape of a grenade at the bottom. Basically a hangover waiting to happen…enjoy! 

Places to Eat

Commander's Palace.  Commander’s is an unmistakable teal and white wooden restaurant located across the street from Lafayette Cemetery No. 1. It’s a family run business offering the best of high-end Creole cuisine in New Orleans. We tried the slow cooked gumbo, pecan crusted gulf fish covered in lump crab and a version of the crawfish linguini. For dessert, the bread pudding soufflé. Be sure to make a reservation and come dressed up. 

Jacques-Imos.  It’s hard to choose a favorite restaurant in New Orleans but this one is up there! Try the snail butter corn bread,Creole Bouillabaisse, Crawfish Étouffée and bread pudding. Make a reservation in advance and come ready to eat!

The Rum House.  Located on Magazine St. and a gem for á la carte tacos. We almost hired the restaurant to cater our wedding.  

Killer Po’Boys.  The best spot in the French Quarter for po’boys. In addition to the classic seafood options, they offer vegan Po’boys like roasted cauliflower, sweet potato and pb&j 

Pechê.  Recommended to us by a few locals, this restaurant in the offers Cajun and Gulf style seafood. 

Basin Sea Food & Spirits. We’ve came here multiple times for their classic southern seafood dishes including: charbroiled oysters, po’boys, fried catfish and gulf shrimp. Early on Friday nights they host lively drag shows!

Juan’s Flying Burrito. A favorite of ours on Magazine Street for Mexican food and margaritas. They blend Mexican, Creole and Native American flavors across their dishes. Try the Mardi Gras Indian and Creole tacos!

Landry’s Seafood House.  A seafood restaurant chain located throughout the Gulf Coast. We’ve dined at the Lake Pontchartrain location to watch boats sailing at the sunset. 

The Commissary Market + Kitchen.  A restaurant, bakery, butcher, bar and store shelved with miscellaneous provisions like including dried goods and homemade pickles. We’ve ordered cocktails, cookies and sandwiches.

Fat Boy Kitchen.  We came here for lobster po’ boys and steak fries the day after our wedding. The portions are huge and food is delicious! The owner even gifted us a bottle of Prosecco to celebrate.

Cafes & Coffee Shops

The Vintage.  A coffee shop with artisanal beignets by day and bar by night. We ordered a flight of three stuffed with matcha, pumpkin and raspberry for breakfast and enjoyed cocktails on their second floor balcony at night.  

Café Beignet.  A popular beignet chain. Visit the Bourbon St. location for a beignet, cup of chicory and of course live jazz. The beignets are delicious and lines are often shorter than their well known competitor, Cafe du Monde.

French Truck Coffee.  A local chain cafe with amazing coffee, biscuit sandwiches, breakfast toasts and croissants. If it’s fully brewed, try the Oji coffee. It’s Japanese method of slow brewing 1 drop at a time over 24 hours.

Bearcat Cafe.  A cafe in the middle of a residential street with breakfast and brunch options including cajun meals, vegan dishes and fresh kombucha. We ordered the blue crab omelette and vegan biscuits & gravy. Make sure to try the breakfast potatoes. 

City Donuts & Cafe.  One of the best finds in the city. Come here for a king cake donut to glazed donut breakfast sandwich! Literally egg and cheese sandwiched between two regular glazed donuts. 

Orleans Coffee Espresso Bar.  A great spot to relax with a coffee or cafe au lait. 

DeVille Coffee House & Crêperie. A restaurant serving crepes all day. We came here for brunch and dined outside right on Magazine Street.

Mojo Coffee. A cafe on Magazine Street with coffee and pastries. Try the NOLA brew, a blend of coffee and chicory.

Places to Have a Drink 

Delachaise Wine Bar.  One of our favorite spots in town. Come here for a glass of wine and to watch the St. Charles street cars pass by.

The Elysian Bar.  A former church turned into a restaurant and cocktail bar. The nave of the church is now the main dining room with multiple parlors located throughout the rectory. It’s a funky and unique experience!

Old Absinthe House.  A 200+ year old absinthe bar on Bourbon St. offering traditional absinthe drip cocktails. It stands out from the neon lit cocktail bars lining the street. The walls are covered in notes and business cards from generations of customers, 

The Pelican Club.  A creole restaurant with a quiet and semi hidden patio in a French Quarter alley. We came here for a post dinner nightcap, sitting between two potted palm trees under a string twinkling lights. 

The Sazerac Bar.  A cocktail bar with classic cocktails, most notably, the Sazerac, a cocktail invented in New Orleans and made with rye whisky, absinthe, bitters, lemon and sugar.

Salon Salon.  A cocktail bar with a glamorous and eclectic library styled interior. They have a revolving bookcase that opens up to a secret back room (we have yet to get in). 

Jewel of the South.  An inventive cocktail bar with seasonal drinks, contemporary concoctions and New Orleans classics like the French 75 and the Sazerac. Sit outside in their tropical plant courtyard. 

Café Lafitte in Exile.  Located on Bourbon Street and said to be the oldest operating gay bar in the US, dating back to the 1930s. Their cocktails bring new meaning to “gay bar strong.”

Good Friends Bar.  One of the many gay bars in the French Quarter but also one of our favorites. The 2 floor bar is a hub for the gay community, locals and tourists. 

QiQi.  A LGBTQ+ dive bar with inexpensive drinks, a laid back vibe and outdoor seating. 

Hot Tin.  A rooftop bar at the Pontchartrain Hotel with great cocktails and views of NOLA.

Getting Around 

Take the Street Car.  There are 4 lines that branch out from Canal St in the city’s center to different neighborhoods. Streetcars are the easiest and most affordable way to get around town. Download the RTA Go Mobile App to buy single ride tickets or multi-day passes.

On Foot.  Grab a to-go cocktail and start walking. The city is so photogenic and great for exploring on foot. 

Ride Shares.  Overall, New Orleans is pretty easy and affordable to get around. 

• $10 for short distances 

• $10-$20 to get across town 

• $30 to/from the airport to Canal St. 

Location Specifics 

NOLA.  The unofficial name for the city, short for New Orleans, Louisiana. 

Dining Attire.  Dress casually chic to semi formal for higher end restaurants.

Riverside vs Lakeside.  Riverside refers to the south side of the city and area along the Mississippi River. Lakeside refers to the north side of the city and area along Lake Pontchartrain. 

Bourbon St. Scams.  Watch out for scam artists on Bourbon St. If any one bets they can tell you where you got your shoes…tell them you’ve got them on Bourbon St.

Places to Stay

The Pink Cottage: Steps from Parades Courtyard.  A modern version of a creole cottage, a small house with a singe room, tiny kitchen and bathroom. Book on Airbnb. 

Courtyard Suite on Tchoupitoulas by Convention Center.  A beautiful and large Airbnb on the ground floor of a historic home neighboring our wedding venue. Book on Airbnb.

Next Time in New Orleans… 

New Orleans holds a special place in our hearts and we will certainly be back in the future! When we return, we have ideas of what we would like to do and see next including: 

• Celebrate the festivities during Mardi Gras and Jazz Fest. 

• Tour St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 and Lafayette Cemetery No. 1 after their repairs are complete. 

• Go sailing on Lake Pontchartrain. 

A Local’s Guide to New York City: Boroughs, Iconic Sights & Hidden Gems

New York City 

New York City is an ever changing landscape of cultures, histories, movements, styles and cuisine. It is a worldly city, both glamorous and gritty filled with people from all walks of life. The city attracts dreamers and offers an endless supply of inspiration. Having lived here for 7 years, we’ve had the chance to explore and experience so much of what makes NYC unlike anywhere else. In no particular order, we’ve curated a list of sites worth visiting, hidden gems to appreciate, mouthwatering food to try and activities to do anywhere in NYC and across all 5 boroughs.  

Manhattan

Manhattan is the most iconic borough of New York City. Its towering skyscrapers, bustling avenues, historic neighborhoods, world renowned museums, famed parks and all hours of activity make it mesmerizing and energizing place to visit, live or work. 

Central Park 

Nestled within Manhattan’s grid of concrete and skyscrapers, is Central Park. The park acts as a retreat space for every New Yorker to escape the busy life of the city, spread out and re-connect with nature at all times of the year. These are our favorite reasons to visit the park: 

• Picnic! Gather some friends, bring a blanket, drinks, snacks and have a picnic. The park is filled with all types of lawns, fields and rock formations to choose from, finding a spot is never difficult to do. A few of our favorites are Umpire Rock, Sheep Meadow and Cedar Hill.

• The Lake.  With so many scenic spots nearby, the lake is one of our favorite areas in all of NYC. From here, you can listen to opera singers perform at Bethesda Terrace, share a kiss on the Bow Bridge, row across The Lake, sip on bubbly the Loeb Boathouse and get lost in the winding trails within The Ramble. 

• The North Woods.  Located in the northwest corner of the park between 100th & 110th streets, The North Woods is a vast section of the park with old trees, rolling hills and plenty of roads and trails to hike without leaving the city. 

• The Central Park Zoo.  A small but fun zoo to stroll through, see animals and learn about conservation. Our favorite part are the seals that frolic, splash and chase each other around in a large pool.

Grand Central Station 

An icon of NYC and well worth the visit with plenty to do and see outside of the typical commute.

• Wander The Great Hall, admire the celestial ceiling and check time on the Connecticut Clock. 

• Try a seafood tower, fresh oysters or whole lobster at the Oyster Bar.

• Whisper sweet nothings in the Whispering Hall. Outside of the Oyster Bar is a vaulted ceiling with columns at each corner. Stand diagonally across from another person speaking directly into the column. You’ll hear each other’s voice carry across the noisy hall’s ceiling.

• Drink a cocktail at The Apartment Bar, an old school NYC style speakeasy behind the restaurant on the south east corner of the great hall. 

• Shop for produce or souvenirs at the Grand Central Market. We usually grab specialty items from here on our way home; such as spices, seafood and Murray’s Cheese.

Photograph the Empire State Building 

The Empire State Building is easily the most recognizable and iconic sight in NYC defining the skyline day and night. At night, the building is illuminated in white or themed colorful lights. Try to spot the white lights twinkling on the hour after dark. Other special times to see the building illuminated is during Pride when it’s splashed in a rainbow of light, on New Years Eve when it glitters in color or Valentines Day when it’s lit in red and has a “heart beat.”

Observatories & Lookouts 

There are several observatories at the tops of historic and super tall buildings across the city. We’ve played tourist in our own city and visited multiple of them including:

• Empire State Building.  The most popular observatory in NYC and a must see with an outdoor deck, 360 city views and a small indoor room at the top of the spire. 

• The Edge.  An observatory with a large outdoor terrace and panoramic views of Manhattan. There’s a champagne bar to order bubbly from and enjoy the views. 

• World Trade Center.  The highest observatory in NYC with views of the Hudson Harbor and looking north across Manhattan. There is a cute bar with drinks and light bites 

• Rockefeller Center.  An observatory with views looking south towards Central Park and Midtown. 

Bryant Park 

This urban oasis is magical spot to relax and admire the city. Find an open chair or green patch of grass, sit back and listen to the hum of everything happening around you. The park is a few blocks from the energy and lights in Times Square and adjacent to the quiet and calm found within main branch of the NY Public Library. Bryant Park also hosts events year round from group yoga classes, chess competitions, ping pong, square dancing and a seasonal ice rink. 

Times Square 

While most New Yorkers avoid Times Square like the plague, you have to visit at least once or pass through in route to a Broadway show. Take in the lights, giant billboards, bustling chaos and noise.

Ride the Subway 

There’s hardly anything glamorous about riding the subway but it’s part of the NYC experience. Take the trains across town, look and listen for performers and don’t be afraid to ask strangers for directions. 

Directions to Keep in Mind: 

• Uptown = Central Park/Harlem

• Midtown = Times Square

• Downtown = World Trade Center

• Most trains pass through Times Square or Grand Central. From either, you can transfer almost anywhere. 

Eat NY Style Pizza 

Grab a slice of New York style pizza. Characterized by its crispy thin crust and wide slices, it’s a staple of NYC cuisine. Look out for pizzerias with long counters lined with dozens of pizzas all sold by the slice. Many of these shops are open 24 hours and constantly crank out new pies ensuring a fresh and delicious slice at any time of day. The East Village hosts a large number of pizzerias.

The Cast Iron District 

Spend an afternoon strolling through the cobble stone streets of the Historic Cast Iron District in SoHo. Hundreds of ornately designed cast iron clad buildings define the neighborhood, many of which are now home to high end restaurants, residences, boutiques and nightlife. Our favorites streets to walk down are Green Street, Bond Street and Crosby Street.

Urban Hiking 

One of the best ways to see the NYC is on foot. We often spend our weekends walking down avenues, across bridges and through Burroughs to explore the neighborhoods, discover restaurants and see areas we would typically passby while riding the subway. Get lost wandering, as Alicia Keys said it, “these streets will make you feel brand new.”

Vesuvius Bakery

One of our favorite bakeries in the city! This SoHo bakery often lures us in with its window display made from stacks of large chocolate chip cookies. Their cookies are crispy on the edges and gooey in-the middle made from layers of thin chocolate that melt apart with each bite.

The High Line 

Walk The High Line in Chelsea and Meatpacking. It’s an old rail line turned into an elevated park surrounded by contemporary architecture. It’s beautiful year round but our favorite time to visit is during autumn. Midway through, stop by Chelsea Market and eat your way through the food stands and restaurants.

Liberty Island 

Visit Liberty Island to see one of the United States most recognizable sights, The Statue of Liberty. The island is home to a museum recounting the statue’s history, construction and renovations. Most sightseeing tours leave from Battery Park.

Governor’s Island 

An island park in the NY Harbor accessible from the ferry terminal in lower Manhattan. Come here to picnic, admire the skyline and Statue of Liberty, ride bicycles without the stress of nyc drivers, rent kayaks at Pier 101, visit Castle Williams and admire artwork at summer galleries. There are a range of seasonal restaurants to dine and relax at including:

• Gitano Island.  A beach club style restaurant and bar with palm trees, a live DJ and tropical food and drinks.

• Taco Vista.  A taco stand in a shipping container with a patio overlooking the Manhattan skyline. 

• Island Oyster.  An outdoor oyster bar with an east coast vibe and skyline views. 

If you’re looking for something ritzier, buy a pass to the QC NY Spa or stay overnight at The Collective’s luxurious glamp-ground.

Roosevelt Island 

Ride the cable car connecting the Upper East Side and Roosevelt Island that runs parallel to the Queensboro Bridge. While on Roosevelt Island, visit Four Freedoms Park, appreciate the island’s Brutalist Architecture or admire the Cherry Blossoms from April to May.

Union Square Market 

Every Saturday morning, the northwest side of Union Square transforms into a large farmers market comparable to those found in the plazas of Europe. It’s one of our favorite places to shop for locally made and grown items including Brooklyn honey, cut flowers, fresh caught seafood, funky mushrooms, artisan bread, smelly cheese, NY wine, maple syrup, seasonal produce and other specialties from local and urban farmers.

Greenwich Village

A historic Manhattan neighborhood known for its narrow streets, brick town houses, high end restaurants, trendy cocktail bars and fashion boutiques. It’s a home to the lgbtq community and movement with numerous gay bars including The Stonewall Inn, Julius, Dupex, The Monster, Pieces and Playhouse. Come to any of these for drag shows and dancing.  

Little Island

A fairy tale park built on tulip shaped pre-cast concrete columns rising from the Hudson River. The park has a winding pathway that gently climbs to a high point with views of the river. It’s home to a lawn, amphitheater and stage; each host concerts, fashion shows, comedians and other performances. There is also a rotunda with concession stands and colorful dining tables.

Chinatown 

After emerging from the Canal St subway station, it’s evident you’re in Chinatown by the pagoda style architecture, strings of red lanterns, vertical Mandarin signs and vendors selling fresh produce and knock-off handbags. Sip on bubble tea from Miss Du’s Tea Shop, lick ube or black sesame ice cream from Soft Swerve Ice Cream, shop for live seafood at Aqua Best, get a massage from the Renew Day Spa, check out the exhibit at world’s smallest museum, TheMmmuseum and sing dollar karaoke songs at Winnie’s Bar. Visit during Lunar New Year and participate in the neighborhoods festivities and traditions.

Little Italy

That's Amore! Visit Little Italy for authentic homestyle Italian cuisine. While looking for a place to eat, you can expect to be invited into every restaurant on the street by their respective hosts. Come here to eat wood fired pizza at Gelso & Grand, homemade pasta at Benito One, freshly filled cannolis or gelato at Ferrara Bakery & Cafe and espresso or espresso martinis at Caffe Roma. If you happen to visit during September, go during the Feast of San Gennaro, the neighborhood’s yearly food festival and street fair. 

Lower East Side

A popular Manhattan neighborhood that feels both grungy and upscale, trendy and timeless, home to locals and welcoming of tourists. About every cuisine imaginable is just a New York minute away with decades old restaurants, corner bodegas and street cafes serving customers late into the night. It’s a trendy area for nightlife with roof top cocktail bars, late night dives, hidden speakeasies and infamous clubs lurking around every corner. 

Go on a Bagel Crawl 

The city is dotted with delis, bakeries, bodegas and food carts offering these quintessential NY breads. Order one and split it amongst friends. After your first bagel, set out for your second, third, fourth and so on…enjoying the moments in-between to walk off a few carbs and see the city. There is an abundance of bagel shops throughout the Lower East Side. If you only have one type of bagel in NYC, make sure it’s a bagel with lox (cured salmon).

See Some Art

With renowned museums and galleries, NYC is home to some of the best art and artists in the world.

• Visit The Guggenheim and experience the museum as it was intended. Take the elevator to the top floor then walk down the spiral ramp viewing the art as you descend. 

• Spend a day at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMa)to see modern artwork by world famous artists like Van Gogh, Picasso, Matisse, Dali, Warhol and Frida Kahlo. 

• Tour the Egyptian Temple of Dendur, walk among the Ancient Greek sculptures and galleries of renowned artwork at The MET

• Question the meaning behind contemporary art at The Whitney. 

• Tour the galleries and exhibits of city’s second largest art museum, The Brooklyn Museum.

• Go Gallery Hoppingin Chelsea on a Thursday during the open gallery night from 5-8pm. See work by new and emerging artists while enjoying free glasses of wine or beer. 

American Museum of Natural History 

An expansive natural history museum with some of the world’s most important discoveries and finds on display including full dinosaur skeletons, the oldest discovered humanoid, the world’s largest meteorite on display and thousands of preserved once living creatures from across all biological kingdoms.  

Brooklyn

Brooklyn is one of New York City’s most inviting boroughs! It’s home to historic neighborhoods with iconic brownstones, rooftops water towers, Manhattan views and vintage amusement parks. It’s urban charm, arts scene and ritzy areas are quintessential of the city’s diverse and ever changing character. 

Coney Island 

This nostalgic and eccentric place is a usual highlight of our summer. We often spend the day here riding amusement park rides, walking the boardwalk, relaxing on the beach and eating fried foods. Make sure to ride the Wonder Wheel and The Cyclone. Have a meal at Nathan’s with a Mermaid Pilsner. If you’re in NYC during mid June, make your way out to Coney Island to witness or participate in the Mermaid Parade, where thousands of people dress up as mermaids, sea creatures and in nautical costumes.  

Walk Across the Bridges 

Walk between Brooklyn and Manhattan on 3 of the city’s most iconic bridges: The Brooklyn Bridge, Manhattan Bridge and Williamsburg Bridge.

DUMBO 

Short for “Down Under Manhattan Bridge Overpass,” this Brooklyn neighborhood is once of the most iconic for its city and bridge views, rooftop water towers, cobblestone streets, red brick buildings and warehouses. Ride Jane’s Carousel, a vintage merry-go-round on the waterfront for only a few dollars. 

Admire the Brownstones

Take the subway to Brooklyn to see New York’s historic Brownstones. These architectural beauties are scattered throughout the city with large concentrations in Bed Stuy and Park Slope. Characterized by their brown stone facades, elevated stoops and narrow width, these homes exude urban charm. 

Tawk like a New Yawker 

Easily recognizable, the New York accent comes from the mix of ethnicities, social groups and cultural influences. It’s known for its combination of excitement, hand gestures, attitude, unique phrases, cursing and drawn out words. When you’re here, it’s hard not to notice and even harder not to try speaking.

Queens

Queens is the largest of New York City’s boroughs, famed for its multicultural neighborhoods, international food scene, waterfront views of midtown Manhattan and city beaches. 

Manhattanhenge 

Manhattanhenge is a rare spectacle when the sun lines up precisely with Manhattan’s east/west street grid during May - July. During this time, the sun rises and sets within the city’s canyon of buildings.

Rockaway Beach 

One of the most easily accessible beaches from NYC. The Rockaways are home to miles of mostly sandy beach and boardwalk. The boardwalk is lined with seasonal restaurants and concession stands serving everything from ceviche, pizza, burgers, arepas and ice cream. Get here by taking the East River Ferry from Wall Street or the A and S trains.

• Rippers. Come here for burgers and beer on the boardwalk.

• Tacoway Beach.  A seasonal surfers bar with board lockers, a large outdoor patio, strong margaritas and a range of delicious tacos. Try the black bean, cheese and sweet plantain tacos.

• Rockaway Brewing. One of our favorite NYC breweries with a location at Rockaway Beach and in Long Island City. They have a tap room and canned beers to go. Try the Beach Cruiser Ale and Hawaiian Pizza IPA.

Jacob Riis Beach.  Our go to beach spot in the Rockaways. It gets packed but it’s one of the most diverse and lgbtq+ friendly beaches we’ve visited. We usually arrive early because it tends to get crowded by late morning.

TWA Terminal

If you find yourself at JFK, visit the TWA Terminal and Hotel. This Mid Century masterpiece is an iconic symbol of the golden age of air travel. With numerous things to keep you occupied during a layover or night’s stay, it is a destination in itself. Order a drink in Sunken Lounge or outside in The Connie, a converted airplane bar, enjoy fine dining at the Paris Cafe and watch airplanes take off from the hotel’s rooftop pool. 

Long Island City Waterfront

The LIC waterfront is one of the most photogenic locations in NYC and a popular location for sunset proposals. The park provides sweeping views of Midtown Manhattan and is a beautiful spot to watch seaplanes land in the East River. The north end is home to Gantry Park and the neon lit Pepsi Cola Sign, a favorite spot of ours to picnic during the summer. At the heart of the park is Gantry Plaza, where dozens of food trucks line up during the late afternoon though evening. Visit the beer garden at Frank Ottomanelli's for drinks, burgers and the occasional salsa night. The south end, Hunters Point, is a favorite for its winding pathways and lush gardens. The surrounding neighborhood is home to several breweries, MoMA PS1 and a variety of restaurants and cafes, especially along Vernon Blvd. 

Getting Here.  Both Gantry Park and Hunters Point have their own East River Ferry docks making them easily accessible. In addition, the neighborhood is only one subway station east of Grand Central via the 7 Train and one north of Brooklyn via the G Train.

Take the East River Ferry 

For an inexpensive way to see the city by water, buy a ticket and hop on the East River Ferry. Ferries operate between Manhattan, Brooklyn, Queens and The Bronx for less than $4 one way. There’s also a bar on board and an outdoor deck. It’s an easy way to enjoy the waterfront, see the skyline and get to Rockaway Beach.

Eat at an All Night Diner

NYC is known as the city that never sleeps. This couldn’t be truer than at an all night diner. Characterized by their run-on menus, cake displays and signed photos of celebrities mounted to the walls, these comforting places are waiting to welcome you at any hour of the day. 

Order Street Food 

Some of the best meals we’ve had have come from unassuming street vendors. Whether it’s tacos, falafel, kimchi, an egg and cheese or pretzels, there’s likely a street cart or food truck selling it.

The Bronx 

The Bronx is the northernmost of New York City’s five boroughs. Its home to lush green spaces, island neighborhoods and Yankee Stadium.

The Bronx Zoo & Tree Top Canopy Adventure 

An adventure park at The Bronx Zoo with zip lines, rope suspension bridges, wood plank walkways and platforms built between the canopy of trees. There are several challenge course ranging from beginner to expert with various style activities including a zip line over the Bronx river, one where you sit in a sled and another in a kayak. The zoo is home to a world of animal life including asian elephants, southern white rhinos, giraffes, gorillas, monkeys, red pandas and snow leopards.

Pro Tip. Visit in late June to collect feathers from the mating peacocks! 

City Island

An island neighborhood of the Bronx located in the Long Island Sound. There is a main street lined with lobster restaurants, boat marinas, bait and tackle shops, cute houses with wooden siding. Walk from one end to the next in less than an hour stopping for drinks at The Black Whale and lobster rolls at The City Island Lobster House. 

Staten Island

Staten Island is the southernmost of New York City’s five boroughs, located across the harbor from Manhattan and Brooklyn. The best way to visit is by taking The Staten Island Ferry, an iconic orange ship ferrying passengers between Staten Island and Manhattan. It’s an inexpensive way to enjoy the views of lower Manhattan, New Jersey, Brooklyn and the State of Liberty.

The Best Restaurants & Bars in NYC 

Writing about the best restaurants in NYC is a lofty under taking so we created a list with our city wide favorites, neighborhood haunts, vegan and vegetarian eateries, fine dining establishments, speakeasies and rooftop bars. View the list here, The Best Restaurants & Bars in NYC.

New York City Food Guide: Best Restaurants, Bars & Dining in NYC

The Best Restaurants & Bars in NYC

Writing about the best restaurants in NYC is a lofty under taking so we created this guide with our city wide favorites, go-to neighborhood haunts, recommended vegan and vegetarian eateries, places for fine dining and celebrations, speakeasies and rooftop bars. 

Long Island City Favorites 

These neighborhood favorites keep us coming back time and time again. Having lived in Long Island City for over 7 years, we’ve grown to love these neighborhood eateries. 

Tournesol

A classic French bistro where the meals and vibes are always magnifique! This neighborhood hole in the wall transports diners to Paris. The owner, chef and servers are all French expats providing an appetizing and welcoming experience. The menu consists of homestyle dishes and desserts often paired with a bottle of French wine or gin martini. As lovers of seafood, we often order staple dishes from their menu including: the moule frites, pan seared skate, seared trout or roasted hake. Some frequent specials include the poisson en papillote and bouillabaisse.

The restaurant is recognizable by its mural of a woman with a tournesol (French for sunflower) on the side of the building and a tiny red car parked out front. The dimly lit interior with white table cloths, bistro chairs, a tin ceiling and antique tiled floor provides a cozy ambiance.

Skinny’s Cantina 

One tequila. Two tequila. Three tequila. Floor! Skinny’s frozen margaritas are enough to get you buzzing or further. In addition, we regularly come here for their extremely well made fish tacos, veggie burrito and sizzling fajitas. Though more expensive than a typical tacoria, it’s worth every dollar and that’s not the tequila talking. 

Sweet Chick 

Tastes like chicken! We come here for their vegetarian chicken and waffles! A personal favorite is the spicy Nashville chicken and waffles. They also offer Southern sides like hush puppies, baked man-n-cheese, shrimp and grits. It’s a usual go to for brunch with friends! We even hosted our 40 person engagement party here in their Jazz Room. 

Slice LIC

We’re not going to be so bold as to claim it’s the best pizza in NYC but it’s surly the best pizza in Long Island City! Walk up window with a spread of NY style pizzas by the slice. We often order an assortment of slices to share including their margarita, vodka, white pie and pesto slices! 

Jora 

A Peruvian restaurant with traditional Peruvian dishes like ceviche, corn causas, arroz con mariscos and empanadas. Their Pisco bar offers Pisco forward cocktails including the classic Pisco Sour among other libations made with Peruvian ingredients. 

New York City Favorites 

New York City is a food lovers paradise with every cuisine and type of food imaginable. With over 10,000 restaurants across the city, it would be impossible to try them all but we’ve curated a list of a few of our favorites. 

Kokomo

Everyone knows a place like Kokomo! This extravagant Caribbean restaurant in the heart of Brooklyn offers tropical vibes, rum cocktails and traditional dishes from the West Indies like whole fried red snapper, vegan curries and goat stew. 

Petit Boucherie 

One of our favorite restaurants in NYC is Petit Boucherie. It’s an intimate French Restaurant in the heart of Greenwich Village with an old world ambiance. We love coming here for their traditional absinthe drip cocktails. 

The Haab 

A hole in the wall for authentic Mexican dishes. We often come for weekend brunch ordering chilaquiles, huevos rancheros and conchas. We’ve been to both locations in Sunnyside Queens and East Williamsburg. The East Williamsburg has a large vegan menu including dishes like seitan mole enchiladas, spicy tempe tacos, black bean tamales and more. 

Tea and Sympathy 

Did someone say tea time? An English style restaurant for afternoon tea complete with mismatched tea cups and a tiered tower of tea sandwiches and authentic sweets like scones, sticky toffee pudding and rhubarb crumple. With English owners and staff, this tea house feels like a piece of merry ole London in the West Village. Stop into their next door businesses, Carry On, for English teas and A Salt & Battery for fish and chips.

St. Mazie Bar & Supper Club

A genuine gem of a restaurant tucked away in Williamsburg with nightly Jazz performances. The historic and warmly lit interior provides an intimate setting for a romantic date night of evening with friends. Order a spread of snacks and appetizers for the table with a bottle of wine or absinthe cocktails.

Socarrat

One of the few paella restaurants we’ve been to that makes genuine paella! Paella is prepared in a traditional pan and scraped out of the dish by the server, revealing the crunchy rice (aka socarrat) beneath. Our personal favorite is the seafood paella made with squid ink rice, scallops, shrimp and oysters. Enjoy a carafe of red, white or rose sangria on the side. 

Fine Dining 

NYC has countless fine dining restaurants worth your top dollar. Whether celebrating a birthday, anniversary, promotion or simply having a date night, these are some of our favorites. Just make sure to secure a reservation weeks ahead of time. 

The River Cafe

An iconic restaurant on a barge below the Brooklyn Bridge with contemporary American cuisine. It is a popular location for proposals and has a very strict dress code. 

Le Coucou 

A contemporary French restaurant with a refined yet unpretentious atmosphere. The menu features dishes like rabbit, duck, lobster, sea bass and our favorite, the dover sole. A interior is illuminated with dimly lit candle style chandeliers, features an open kitchen and comfortable velvet furniture. Located in SoHo, it’s popular among celebrities and boasts a Michelin Star. 

One if Land, Two if by Sea

A romantic restaurant with fine American cuisine served in multi-course menus with changing dishes. The dim interior glimmers with the light from candle lit chandeliers reflected off the warmth of the red brick walls and American style artwork as a pianist serenades diners throughout the night. Come during the holidays for a festive ambiance when the walls are decorated in evergreen garland. 

Omakase room by Maaser

A simple 12 seat omakase room offering a 12 and 17 course tasting menus and sake pairings. The Itamae (sushi chef) will individually prepare an assortment of sea life as pieces of sushi, sashimi, nigiri and oyster at the counter. Some pieces served are raw while others are flamed and all are balanced with the perfect level of umami flavor. 

Le Crocodile

An elevated French restaurant in an upscale area of Williamsburg. It has a slightly relaxed vibe and an antiqued interior with high ceilings, brick walls, wood paneling and warm lighting. Come for the dinner service and order the mushroom pate with black truffle, summer ratatouille, almond encrusted trout and chocolate mousse. 

Marseille 

A higher end southern French restaurant specializing in Bouillabaisse, the traditional seafood stew created in Marseille, France. Come here on a romantic date night and share the Bouillabaisse between two. Sit indoors and enjoy the French styled interior with elegant decor, leather banquettes and warmly lit lighting. 

Vegan and Vegetarian Cuisine   

Restaurants across NYC cater to every palette and cuisine, as mostly plant based we’ve frequented several vegan and vegetarian restaurants over the years. These are some of the best we’ve been to.

Delice & Sarrasin 

An inventive French restaurant with vegan versions of classic French dishes like escargot, boeuf bourguignon, steak tartare, foie gras and French onion soup. Using pea protein, traditional preparations and a bit of ‘je ne sais quoi,’ the chef is able to create delectable dishes that elevate vegan cuisine. 

Ja Ja Ja Mexicana 

A restaurant with multiple locations across NYC known for their vegan Mexican dishes including tacos, quesadillas, burritos, tamales and enchiladas. For their base, each dish is made with veggies or vegan meats like chorizo, pollo, pescado and carnitas. At the bar, order from a range of mezcal and tequila forward cocktails with citric and floral notes. Each location has a colorfully tiled and textured interior with plants and wicker decor. 

Anixi 

A high end vegan restaurant with Turkish influences both in its food and interior. Try the mezze dips, pide flatbreads and vegan meats grilled on 14” swords. A palace like restaurant has tall ceilings, stone covered walls, a large fireplace, velvet curtains and crystal chandeliers. 

Bunna Cafe 

Head to Bushwick for plant based Ethiopian cuisine at Bunna Cafe. We come here for their injera and a combination of plant based dishes like cremini mushrooms, steamed collared greens, spiced and pureed chickpeas, berbere seasoned lentils, seasoned yellow lentils, vegetables with cabbage and sautéed beets

Beyond Sushi 

If you like sushi, you’ll like Beyond Sushi. This restaurant creates convincingly flavorful and artful vegan sushi rolls. Seafood is made from vegetables like marinated carrot and radish, jackfruit and mushroom. 

Vegan on the Fly

A fast food style vegan restaurant in the heart of Midtown with shaved seitan gyros, vegan drumsticks, chicken sandwiches and milkshakes. 

Speakeasies 

In a city where something new lingers around every corner, some of the best surprises remain truly hidden. A few of these hidden gems are speakeasies. Here are a few of our favorites and how to get in. 

Please Don’t Tell

The entrance is located through a phone booth inside Criff Dogs on St. Marks Place. After 6pm, enter the phone booth, pick up the receiver and dial 1. The other side of the phone booth will open leading into the bar. The bar itself is known for its mixologists, often crafting custom cocktails to your taste. 

Basement Chinatown

Located in Chinatown down a flight of stairs on Mott St is a Coca Cola refrigerator door. Behind the door is a basement bar with a subtle carnival theme, emphasized by a self serve popcorn machine.

Employees Only

The entrance, hidden behind the curtains of a fortune teller’s shop in Chelsea, leads to this classy cocktail bar. The speakeasy is known for its experimental drinks and prohibition era vibes. 

Fig. 19 

A speakeasy in the Lower East Side disguised as a white box art gallery. Once inside, behind a hidden door is a cozy cocktail lounge. Friday nights and weekends can get surprisingly busy.

Rooftop Bars 

A swanky NYC night out involves cocktails at a rooftop bar or lounge. We’ve gone to numerous across the city, each with a different vibe and unique view. Here’s a shortlist of some of our favorites.

The Broken Shaker

Located on the roof of the Freehand Hotel, this 70s style tiki themed rooftop features multiple bars, tropical drinks and tasty small plates.

Spyglass Rooftop

This intimate rooftop cocktail bar has some of the best views of the Empire State Building. As its name suggests, it even has a viewing periscope pointed directly at the building. 

The Boom Boom Room

Located at the top of the Standard Hotel, this iconic and ultra glitzy spot embodies the glamour of NYC. Come for the high end cocktails, live music and make sure to check out the restrooms.

Bookmarks

A cozy cocktail lounge with charcuterie, an outdoor patio (covered during the winter) a fireplace, velvet furniture and the smell of books.

Ophelia Lounge

A cocktail bar and restaurant at the top of the Art Deco style Beekman Tower with 360 city and East River views.

The MET Roof Garden Bar

Located on the rooftop of the MET, this seasonal bar features outdoor art installations, skyline views and overlooks the treetops of Central Park.

Other rooftop bars worth visiting are: Bar Blondeau, Westlight, RT60 Rooftop, PHD Dream Rooftop & Apotheke Nomad. 

Eclectic Bars Across the City 

There are a lot of eclectic and viby cocktail bars across the city. These are a few that we’ve found ourselves returning to when we’re in the area. 

Dutch Kills Bar

An old school cocktail bar only open after 5pm with a dimly lit interior and a wide range of spirits. Mixologists are known for inventing drinks based of your spirit and flavor preferences. 

Surf Bar

A beach like dive bar with a sand covered floor, surfboards on the ceiling, stings of colorful bulb lights and walls covered in natural decor and accessories. Come here for the tropical cocktails and tiki drinks. 

Joy Face

This is one of those funky NYC bars. It’s decorated like the 1970s complete with a disco ball, water bed and vintage furniture. After a couple of cocktails, we seemingly get lost in time. 

Analogue

Try a Manhattan in Manhattan! Mixologists stir, shake and serve up sipping cocktails made from strong spirits like whisky, scotch, bourbon, rye, gin and mezcal. This dimly lit bar has a cozy feeling with leather sofas, Edison bulbs and framed black and white photos. 

Russian Samovar 

A Russian vodka and piano bar with a range of house infused vodkas steeped with dill, cucumber, horseradish, pepper, ginger, lemon, basil and more. Our personal favorite drink is the horseradish martini. Their food menu has plenty of Eastern European classics like pierogi, cured lox and Russian salads.  

Tips for Dining Out in NYC

Reservations.  Making reservations ahead of time is necessary whenever dining out in NYC. Call the restaurant directly or book online with Open Table. Some places require a refundable deposit to hold your reservation. 

Dress Codes.  Double check restaurant websites and reviews for any dress code requirements before arriving. Generally only fine dining restaurants or exclusive bars have set dress codes.  

Tipping.  A 20% tip is standard for service across restaurants and bars in NYC. Always double check that the gratuity is not included in the final bill to avoid double tipping. 

Cash vs Card.  Most restaurants and bars accept credit and debit cards while the occasional business will be cash only. Carry cash for street food. 

Samaná Peninsula Travel Guide: Nature, Beaches & Waterfalls

The Samaná Peninsula

The Samaná Peninsula is a remote region of the Dominican Republic with mountainous landscapes, tropical forests, dramatic waterfalls and pristine beaches. Colorful fishing boats and their captains ferry passengers between palm fringed beaches with golden sand shorelines hugged by vibrant blue waters. Marine life thrives in seagrass meadows, coral reefs and the vast Samaná Bay. Hiking trails lead through the tropical landscape to towering waterfalls while fruits like cacao, mango and banana grow wild. Dark caves feature large chambers with indigenous Taino petroglyphs and dripping stalactites. Jungleous treehouses and oceanside hotels provide tranquil accommodations for travelers. Meringue and Bachata music play loudly from roadside colmados in local parts of town. Moto bikes buzz past, sometimes with three or more passengers holding on. Dominican cuisine and tropical cocktails are served at restaurants, kiosks and beach front bars. We spent five days exploring The Samaná Peninsula, beach hopping between towns and remote corners of the region. 

Samaná

Samaná is a large town on the coast of the Samaná Bay. It’s a developing waterfront is a hub for tour operators, boutique hotels and restaurants. Boats leave from here to visit the Los Haitises National Park, Cayo Levantado and watch for whales during the migration season. 

Puente De Cayo Samana.  A pedestrian bridge leading to from Playa Cayacoa to Cayo Vigia, a small forested island in the Samaná Bay. The bridge offers beautiful views of the town’s waterfront and boat speckled harbor. Orange starfish, spotted eagle rays and schools of fish can be seen in the shallow waters beneath the bridge. 

Glamour Restaurant Snack Bar.  A kiosk specializing in Dominican cuisine set along Samaná waterfront with views of the harbor and bridge. Come here for the mixed seafood mofongo and lambi (conch) cooked in the peninsula’s famed coco sauce. 

Cayo Levantado (Bacardi Island).  An island in the Samaná Bay with a public palm lined white sand beach, various restaurant kiosks, tropical bars, souvenir shops and a luxury resort. Many tours around the Samaná Bay stop here during the afternoon for beach time and lunch. There is a small snorkeling area near the offshore rocks. The island is nicknamed after a Bacardi advertisement from the 1970s. 

Los Haitises National Park.  A vast landscape on the southern side of the Samaná Bay defined by its karst islands, mangrove forests, brackish rivers and caves systems with 600 year old Taino petroglyphs. 

Cueva de La Linea.  A large cave once home to hundreds of indigenous Taino. The cave walls are covered in illustrations and petroglyphs depicting animals, hunting scenes, dancing people and swaddled babies.  

Cueva de La Arena.  A coastal cave system with a series of sandy chambers and flooded passageways that open up to the forest and bay. 

Getting Here.  We visited both the Los Haitises National Park and Cayo Levantado on a day trip from Samaná with Coprixa Travels on Get Your Guide. The tour included water, rum cocktails and a buffet lunch on Cayo Levantado. 

Las Terrenas

Las Terrenas is a bustling beach town with lengthy golden sand beaches, boutique resorts, open air restaurants, oceanfront bars, souvenir shops and colmados. It’s popular amongst independent travelers, European expats and wealthier locals. 

Beaches in Las Terrenas

Playa Las Terrenas.  A lengthy golden sand beach with calm swimmable waters and palm lined shores. It’s one of the most easily accessible beaches in Las Terrenas yet sparely crowded making it a relaxing places to sunbathe and swim. A beachfront walkway follows the coastline leading to oceanfront restaurants and neighboring beaches. 

Playa Punta Popy.  A popular golden sand beach at the far eastern point of Playa Las Terrenas. Its shallow turquoise waters are an inviting place to cool off during the mid afternoon heat while beach vendors rent lounges and umbrellas beneath the cover of an expansive palm grove. There is an official parking lot, costing 100 Dominican Pesos for the full day. 

Playa Casa Blanca.  A sandy beach in the center of Las Terrenas with over a dozen beachfront kiosks offering Dominican cuisine and fresh caught seafood. Fishermen can frequently be seen cleaning their catch onshore while small boats and dining tables dot the sand. Sit down at Dulce Playa for the Samaná Peninsula’s famed Pescado con Coco, a whole fried red snapper covered in sauce made from coconut milk, tomato and garlic sauce. 

Good to Know.  Prices are much more affordable here than at the restaurants in town, often excluding the 18% government fee. 

Playa Cosón.  An expansive golden sand beach with a verdant palm lined shore. Its western cove is largely undeveloped, making it a popular place to swim, sunbathe, barbecue and surf. The eastern cove is largely privatized with luxury residential developments and beachfront resorts. 

• The Cosón River.  A freshwater river that lets out at Cosón Beach, creating a large shallow pool with refreshingly cool and clear waters. It’s popular with locals and families looking to cool off from the heat. 

• Valerio en Playa Cosón.  A beachfront restaurant at Cosón Beach serving freshly caught seafood  dishes and tropical cocktails served in pineapples. They’re cash only. 

• Enoha Surf School.  A surf shack at Cosón Beach with board rentals and surf lessons. We missed out on the chance to surf in the leisurely waves but enjoyed watching. 

• Beach Parking.  Free parking is available at a lot near the Enoha Surf Schooland along the sandy road between it and The Cosón River.

Snorkeling in Las Terrenas

Playa Las Ballenas.  A lengthy beach with a densely palm fringed shoreline. Beachfront kiosks rent lounges, serve island cuisine and tropical cocktails under the shade of the palms. Beneath the aquamarine waters a meadows of seagrass and large coral structures home to colorful corals, tropical fish, swaying anemones and sea urchins. 

Pro Tip.  Bring your own snorkel gear and swim out about 100 meters past the shallow seagrass meadows to reach to corals. Swim straight out at the beachfront across from the Apartamento Palmerai.

Playa El Portillo.  A golden sand beach with a palm lined shoreline. It’s one of Las Terrenas least developed and most natural beaches with offshore meadows of seagrass and lively coral gardens home to anemones, tiny fish and urchins. Come here to sunbathe, swim and snorkel.

Pro Tip.  Alternating fields of seagrass and coral structures are easily reachable from shore. Bring your own snorkel gear and swim out from the El Mosquito Beach Bar. Stick around for a rum cocktail at sunset!

Places to Eat & Drink in Las Terrenas 

Las Terrenas is the main hub on the Samaná Peninsula to dine out and drink with the largest range of local and international options. 

Totem Las Terrenas.  A beachfront restaurant with Dominican cuisine, Spanish style tapas, Italian pastas and a chalk board menu with daily specials. Come here for the dorado (mahi mahi) and mango ceviche or Masa de Cangrejo with a side of plantain tostones. 

El Loro Restaurante & Beach Bar.  A romantic beachfront restaurant with a twinkle light lit dining room placed in the sand. It’s a popular place to watch the sunset, enjoy a cocktail and savor fresh seafood dishes. Try the octopus carpaccio, seafood risotto, yuca frites and passion fruit pavlova. 

Sol y Sombra.  A restaurant in the center of Las Terrenas with a menu of European style dishes like tuna carpaccio, mahi mahi croquettes and mushroom gnocchi. Come here for a full meal to to simply enjoy a glass of wine in their atmospheric patio furnished with tropical and bohemian decor.

Chin Chin Cocktail Club.  A cocktail lounge located in an outdoor garden surrounded by fruiting cacao trees and tropical plants. Mixologists serve innovative cocktails and refined versions several classics. It’s a worth while destination located on the edge of town. 

El Limón

El Limón is a small mountain town with an energetic and local atmosphere. People gather at colmados while bachata echos aloud, farm stands display freely harvested fruits and vegetables and children swim in a river fed swimming pool. The town is located near remote beaches and the famed waterfall, Salto El Limón. 

Salto El Limón Waterfall.  A 130 foot tall waterfall in the middle of the lush and rugged tropical jungle. White water cascades down its craggily cliffside, creating strong breeze and cooling mist. An emerald pool resides at its base, enticing those looking for a refreshing swim. It’s accessible after hiking on foot or by horse back from a number of different trail heads. 

Getting Here.  The falls are reachable after a 45 minute hike down gravel roads, muddy trails, river crossings, paved paths and steep stairs.

• Trail Head.  Start hiking from the parking lot of Entrada al Salto del Limón. A rocky road and gravel trail leads about 20 minutes through tropical jungle and farmland to the El Limón River. 

• River Crossing.  Stop at the El Limón River to view the “Cascada Mas Pequeña”. Wade through the river to merge paths with the Sendero Rancho Español.

• Sendero Rancho Español.  A paved trail, often traversed on horseback. It leads 20 minutes past the Cascada Pequeña to the El Limón Welcome Center.

• El Limón Welcome Center.  Stop here to purchase wristbands (tickets) to access the waterfall. Entrance fees cost 100 Dominican Pesos (less than $2 USD). A steep staircase leads 5 minutes further to the base of the falls. 

Pro Tip.  Arrive early to avoid the crowds and experience the falls in the morning light. Begin hiking between 7-8am to arrive at Salto El Limón prior to 9am.

Cascada Pequeña.  A beautiful yet often overlooked waterfall along the Sendero Rancho Español leading to Salto El Limón. Streams of white water cascade over 30 foot drop into river pool surrounded by lush trees. 

Cascada Mas Pequeña.  Not its official name nor is it even named, this small waterfall flows over an 8ft drop along the El Limón River where the trail starting at Entrada al Salto del Limón meets the Sendero Rancho Español. 

Rancho Romana Ecolodge Park.  A secluded ecolodge built into the jungleous landscape with elegantly designed treehouses, tropical fruiting trees and early access to Salto El Limón. The ecolodge is reachable after 10 minute hike while its location in the middle of the Samaná Peninsula is 30 minutes by car from the beach towns of Samaná and Las Terrenas. Book on Airbnb. 

Las Galeras

Las Galeras is a small beach town on the far eastern side of the Samaná Peninsula. Restaurants, bars and colmados flank the town’s central road leading to its main beach. The town is quieter during the day but becomes very lively at night. French is commonly spoken here, influenced by French travelers and Haitian immigrants. The surrounding region is home to pristine beaches and coastal rock formations. 

Playa Rincón.  A remote beach with soft sands and a vast palm fringed shoreline that stretches for well over a mile. Colorful fishermen’s boats sit onshore while kiosks prepare the day’s catch, fresh coconuts and Dominican rum cocktails. Vendors rent beach lounges under the palms while captains offer passage to nearby beaches. The western side is the most popular while the eastern side is the most tranquil. 

Parking.  Parking at Playa Rincón is free and monitored by the local police. Officers provide a tag to place on your dashboard while entering the beach.

Caño Frío.  A shallow river with clear aquamarine waters letting out at the western side of Playa Rincón. Locals wade in the river to cool down during peak afternoon heat while children play in its shallow waters. It’s possible to walk up its sandy riverbed or paddle upstream in a canoe to see the dense mangrove forest flanking its banks. 

Playa Frille.  A picturesque beach with golden sands, bright turquoise waters and a verdant palm covered tree line.  The beach is reachable by walking or driving beyond the eastern side of Playa Rincón. 

Playa Breman.  A pristine and picturesque beach that easily ranks as one of the prettiest we’ve experienced. Palm trees reach out over its tan sand shoreline towards the vibrant blue waters and unspoiled coastline. The beach is reachable by trail from Playa Frille. It passes beneath a canopy of palm trees, muddy sections and agricultural farmland with cacao and banana trees. 

Playa del Amor.  A tiny cove with a white sand beach and calm swimmable waters. It’s reachable after hiking a hilly and forested trail from the eastern side of Playa Breman. 

Playa Colorada.  A remote golden sand beach with swimmable turquoise waters and coastal rock formations. The beach is reachable after hiking over a rugged hillside trail from Playa del Amor and following a gravel road past a series of villas towards the beach. 

Bufadora Samaná.  A roadside blow hole on coastal route 5, located about 10 minutes from Las Galeras. Ocean waves crash into the jagged cliffside, rocketing a jet of water and mist from a small opening in the rock.

La Hondonada.  A beautiful sea arch separating a flooded cove from the turbulent ocean. It’s located just past the Bufadora Samaná in route to Las Galeras. Park along the roadside of coastal route 5, walking a few minutes along a cinder block wall to reach the viewpoint. 

Bahía de Las Galeras.  A white sand beach in the town of Las Galeras. It’s a popular place to watch the sunset and hire boat captains for transportation to hard to reach beaches. Several beachfront kiosks serve tropical cocktails like piña coladas prepared in whole pineapples. 

Marakana.  An “Italian” restaurant specializing in wood fired pizzas, pastas and seafood. Order their namesake, a sauce-less pizza made with gooey mozzarella cheese and topped with sliced mozzarella, onions caramelized in red wine, seared tuna and pesto.

El Valle

El Valle is a very remote area of the Samaná Peninsula nestled within a verdant valley. The region is home to jungleous landscapes with waterfalls, treehouse hotels, a zip-line park, lengthy tan sand beach and rural community. 

Playa El Valle.  A secluded tan sand beach flanked by two lush mountainsides and karst cliffs. A series of caves and rock formations divides the beach in half where a cool stream flows forth. Sea turtles frequently nest onshore, leaving behind sandy divots where baby turtles hatched from. Fishermen boats and captains wait onshore to ferry passengers to neighboring beaches. There are a couple small campground, accommodations and kiosks lining the western side of the beach. 

Good to Know.  This is about the only place where vendors were extremely persistent, asking us to pay for parking or hire their services for tours. Simply ignore them and continue walking. 

Samaná Zipline El Valle.  A thrilling zipline park in the middle of the tropical forest with 12 lines that criss-cross the scenic valley below. A steep hike up the mountainside leads to the first platform with a 1,000 foot long zip line suspended 350 feet above the valley. It and each following line offers breathtaking views of the valley from about every angle, including glimpses of Cascada Lulu and the thatched huts of the Dominican Tree House Village. 

Good to Know.  They’re open on Wednesday to Monday from 9am to 4pm and only take cash payments. Request to book online and confirm the latest pricing before arrival. 

Bésame Mucho.  A roadside food truck specializing in baked Argentine style empanadas filled with cheese, vegetables and meats. 

Good to Know.  There is little to no cell service in El Valle. A 4x4 is required when navigating El Valle’s rough roads. 

Dominican Cuisine & Drinks 

Pescado con Coco.  A dish local to the Samaná Peninsula made with a fried, grilled or steamed fish simmered in a creamy coconut milk, tomato and garlic sauce.

Pan de Coco.  A pillowy and semi-sweet flat bread made exclusively in the Samaná Peninsula with fresh coconut milk. The bread is cooked in wood fired dutch ovens at roadside bakeries and sold by vendors across the peninsula. 

Mangú.  A green plantain and root vegetable puree commonly eaten at breakfast. The dish is often garnished with pickled or caramelized onions and paired with fried cheese, salami and eggs. 

Sancocho Dominicano.  A Caribbean style stew often cooked with a mixture of meats and vegetables like beef, pork, chicken, yuca, plantains and yautía. It’s typically meat forward but can be prepared and served vegetarian. 

Asopao.  A Caribbean soup made from a tomato broth with rice and sofrito. It can be prepared with or without meat or seafood. 

Masa de Cangrejo.  A traditional Dominican dish made with stewed crab simmered in a tomato based sauce with peppers, onions, garlic and olives. 

Mofongo.  A fried green plantain mash often served with a savory tomato sauce and protein like seafood or meat. 

Tostones.  Twice fried and smashed green plantains often served as a side dish. 

Tapas.  Spanish style tapas and cuisine are immensely popular across the Dominican Republic. Common dishes include grilled octopus, paella and ceviche. 

Fruits.  Tropical and exotic fruits grow abundantly across the island. Try fresh cacao, red bananas, papaya, pineapple, coconut, passion fruit and mountain apples. 

Presidenté.  The national beer of the Dominican Republic. It comes in three varieties: original, light and black. 

Santo Libre.  A Dominican cocktail made with Sprite and amber or gold rum. It’s the Dominican Republic’s response to Cuba’s Cuba Libre cocktail. 

Mama Juana.  A popular tonic served, sold and made at home all across the Dominican Republic. It consists of rum and red wine aged in a bottle for a minimum of two weeks with a mixture of wood, bark, vines and spices. 

Location Specifics

When to Visit.  Visit during the shoulder season in May. The weather is sunny, warm and pleasant. The crowds are often small to non-existent. Some businesses may already be closed for the “off season.”

Cash vs Card.  Credit cards are widely accepted across the Samaná Peninsula however cash payments are often the only option at beach kiosks, colmados, small shops and fruit stands. Both the Dominican Peso and US Dollar are widely accepted. 

Taxes & Tipping.  There is a mandatory 18% tax on all purchases and a legally applied 10% tip at most restaurants, cafes and bars. Tipping beyond that is discretionary, anything from 5-10% more is typical for great service.
General Safety.  The Samaná Peninsula is very safe and tourist friendly. Exercise typical travel precautions and check for the lasted information with government sources. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Rights remain restricted on the national level however there is general acceptance of lesbian and gay couples. PDA is typically frowned upon. 

Dress Codes.  Unlike in Santo Domingo, there are no dress codes for dining out. Flip flops, sandals, shorts, low cut dresses and tank tops are typically allowed. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe to consume in the Samaná Peninsula. Stick to bottled water. 

Toilets.  Plumbing is fragile at most accommodations and restaurants. Toilets often require dumping water down them to flush while used toilet paper is asked to be placed in a bin. 

Getting Around 

Moto Taxis.  Moto taxis are the most popular way of getting around with in the Samaná Peninsula’s beach towns. Look for drivers with a neon vest. They’ll often ride up next to you while walking through town. Fares are often inexpensive, raging from 50-200 pesos to travel short distances. 

Boat Taxis.  The most efficient way to get from beach to beach is by hiring a boat. Captains often wait at beaches and offer tour routes for a negotiable fee. Ask around for the best pricing and negotiate. Costs range from $25-$40 USD per person for half days and $80-$100 USD for full days.

Quads & ATVs.  The narrow roads in the Samaná Peninsula’s beach towns can make driving a full sized car challenging. Most tourists often rent Quads or ATVs from in town agencies. 

Driving in the Dominican Republic 

Driving is one of the best ways to get around the Samaná Peninsula and the Dominican Republic, however it’s not for the faint of heart. While roads are generally well maintained, be prepared to aggressive drivers, speeding moto bikes, free for all parking on roadsides and pedestrians darting across streets. 

• Car Rentals.  There are several reputable car rental agencies at the Santo Domingo International Airport including Avis, Budget and Payless. 

• Speed Limits. Speed limits vary depending on locations. Highways are generally 80kph, rural roads are 40-60kph and inner city roads are 20-40kph. 

• Police Stops.  Dominican police often set up speed traps on highways to ticket speeding drivers. Dominican military often set up check points to review documents. 

• Toll Booths.  There are several toll booths between Santo Domingo and the Samaná Peninsula. Most rental cars include a pre-paid toll pass however most booths also accept Dominican Pesos. Tolls range from 100-400 pesos, adding up to about around 1,000 pesos. There are no tolls once on the Samaná Peninsula. 

• Parking.  Free parking is allowed essentially anywhere without a “no parking” sign or yellow painted curb. There are often fake parking attendants sitting outside beach parking lots charging 100 pesos to “watch your car.” 

• Falling Fruits.  Beware of falling fruits. Don’t park underneath coconut, papaya or cacao trees. 

• Aggressive Drivers.  Many drivers are aggressive. They will often ride your bumper, speed past you into oncoming traffic and cut you off. 

• Speed Bumps.  Be vigilant of steep speed bump, especially on rural and inner city roads. Cross them slowly and with caution. 

• Rain Trenches.  Roadsides are often flanked by deep trenches to collect and quickly move water after tropical rains. 

• Refueling.  Attendants refuel vehicles for you at gas stations. Gas is sold by the liter and priced in Dominican pesos. Most gas stations accept credit card. 

• Offline Maps.  Download offline maps prior to driving in the Dominican Republic. Cell service often cuts out in the mountains and remote areas. 

Bonus Waterfall 

Midway along the road trip between Santo Domingo and the Samaná Peninsula is a remote waterfall, Natural Monument Salto de Socoa. The waterfall cascades over a 40 foot tall cliff into a natural swimming pool. It’s a beautiful place to come for a swim, picnic or simply to enjoy nature.

Getting Here. The waterfall is only accessible with a 4x4 vehicle. It’slocated here on Google Maps. Carry Dominican Pesos for the small entrance fee. 

Elsewhere in The Dominican Republic 

From the waterfalls and beaches of Samaná to Santo Domingo's colonial architecture and cultural heritage, continue exploring the diverse landscapes of the Dominican Republic.

Santo Domingo Travel Guide: Zona Colonial, History & Culture.  Explore the oldest European settlement in the Americas through cobblestone streets, historic forts, museums and vibrant Caribbean culture.

For Next Time… 

The Samaná Peninsula is truly a magical place with pristine beaches, lush mountainous landscapes and energetic beach towns. We plan to return and have several ideas for places to visit and things to do on our next trip. 

Whale Migration Season.  Humpback whales migrate into the Samaná Bay during February and March. Local operators offer tours to watch them breach the surface, mate and give birth. 

Whale Museum of Samana.  A small natural history museum dedicated to the Samaná Bay and its migratory humpback whales. It features a whale skeleton and Taino artifacts and carved whale bones. 

La Fàbrica Samaná Café y Cacao.  A coffee and cocoa finca with a roasting and production facility. They offer regular tours in Spanish and English.

Surfing at Cosón Beach.  The beach is sandy with a year round surf break perfect for beginners from late spring to early fall and experienced surfers from late fall to early spring. Visit Enoha Surf School for board rentals and lessons. 

Playa Fronton.  A remote cliffside beach reachable with a palm lined shore and underwater rock formations. It’s reachable on foot via a reportedly dangerous trail or safely by boat from Las Galeras. 

Hike Parque Nacional Cabo Cabron.  A remote national park with untouched forest, rugged landscapes and hiking trails. A 12.5km trail leads from the western side of Playa Rincon to a tidal rock pool at its northern tip. 

Santo Domingo Travel Guide: Zona Colonial, History & Culture

Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic

Santo Domingo, the bustling capital of the Dominican Republic, is a vibrant hub of Dominican culture, flavorful cuisine and rhythmic music. Its rich history and heritage is well preserved in the Zona Colonial while its Caribbean coastline adds to the warm and inviting atmosphere. 

Zona Colonial

The Zona Colonial is the historic heart of Santo Domingo and the oldest European settlement in the Americas. It’s a place where history and modern Dominican life meet. Remnants of the coral stone walls and gates frame the easily walkable neighborhood. Its brick paved streets pass colorful colonial buildings, cannon lined fortresses, centuries old cathedrals and the ruins of crumbling structures. Flowering walkways and Caribbean views show off the city’s tropical glamour. Verdant parks and lively plazas serve as gathering spaces for locals. Rhythms of Bachata and Merengue echo from homes and restaurants. Restaurants serve Dominican cuisine, coffee shops serve Dominican coffee and bars mix cocktails with Dominican rum. While the Zona Colonial can be explored in a day, it’s best to visit over multiple days to enjoy everything the city has to offer at a slower pace. 

Walk the Calles & Barrios

El Conde.  A lengthy pedestrian street brimming with restaurants, cafes, souvenir stores, art galleries, cigar shops, historic sites and street vendors. The whole length dissects the Zona Colonial, starting at Las Escalinatas del Conde and ending at Parque Independencia. 

Calle Padre Billini.  A beautiful street with historic buildings, elegant cathedrals, lush plazas and side streets lined with colorful colonial homes. The most picturesque section is between Calle Las Damas and Calle Jose Reyes. 

Cuesta de la Calle Hostos.  A hilly section of Calle Hostos with views of its colorfully painted homes and buildings near the ruins of the San Francisco Monastery and the ruins of Hospital Saint Nicholas of Bari. At the time, the street was closed for repairs making it less navigable on foot. 

Calle las Damas.  A street considered the oldest in the Americas, dating back to the city’s founding over 500 years ago. It’s flanked by stone and brick buildings and historic sites like Panteón de la Patria, Plaza María de Toledo and the Fortaleza Ozama. 

Callejón de Regina.  A residential side street with homes draped in flowering bushes, overgrown vines, potted plants and palm trees. It’s a tranquil place the visit in the early morning as the city awakens. Come here to enjoy a coffee and pastry at the Corner Cafe. 

Malecón.  A waterfront boulevard stretching for miles from the Zona Colonial into the city proper. It’s a popular place for its Caribbean views and coastal restaurants. 

Santa Barbará.  An Afro-Caribbean neighborhood in the Zona Colonial with colorful graffiti and murals depicting Dominican culture and indigenous Taino heritage. 

Visit the Parks and Plazas 

Parque Colon.  A historic and lively plaza in the center of the Zona Colonial. Musicians perform for tips both day and night while local guides offer walking tours of the old town. Restaurants with outdoor patios spill out onto the street lining one side while the Catedral Primada de las Américas flanks the opposite. A statue of Columbus stands at its center, surrounded by tree shaded walkways and benches. 

Plaza de Espana.  A large plaza flanked by several restaurants and cafes with outdoor patios and rooftops overlooking it. The tree lined and palm fringed plaza is home to Diego Columbus’ home, Alcázar de Colón and an impressive section of the city’s protective wall. 

Plaza María de Toledo.  A lively plaza nestled alongside the Panteón de la Patria with a brick arched fountain, parlor palm plantings and benches. Locals gather here during the evenings to enjoy a Presidente beer, paleta or slice of pizza from nearby colmados and restaurants. It’s home to a Sunday bazaar with vendors selling brass antiques, clay artifacts and paintings. 

The Old Fortress Plaza.  A historic plaza on the north end of Calle Las Damas with colonial stone buildings, a brick chapel, a cannon lined lookout and sculptural artwork. 

Parque Fray Bartolomé de las Casas.  A small park on Calle Padre Billini home to a daily market of vendors selling handmade jewelry and fresh fruit juices. 

Parque Duarte.  A historic park on Calle Padre Billini surrounded by historic colonial architecture, elegant cathedrals and some small bars. The park is named after one of the Dominican Republic’s founders, honored with a bronze statue at its center. 

Parque Montesino.  A verdant city park and recreational space on the edge of the Zona Colonial with cannon lined forts, a colorfully painted skate park and basketball courts. 

Los Tres Ojos.  A nature park inside of a partially collapsed cave system with four turquoise and  emerald lagoons. Staircases and jungleous trails lead underground to platforms overlooking the lagoons. Cave ceilings are covered in dripping stalactites, dangling vines and the occasional colony of bats. While visible from an above ground nature trail, the largest lagoon is only accessible by riding on a rope pulled ferry through one lagoon and walking through a dark cave to its observation deck. The park is reachable 15 minutes by car from the Zona Colonia.

See the Sights 

Fortaleza Ozama.  A medieval fortress built from coral stones during the 16th century to protect the colonial city from pirate attacks. A staircase leads into the levels and cells of the tower to a lookout with views of the grounds and Ozama River. Narrated animated films recount the history of the city, its population and notable figures. Its grounds sit behind an extensively cannon lined wall with support structures like a gunpowder magazine and cistern.

Puerta de Don Diego (Puerta de la Mar).  A stone gate along the colonial wall decorated in a series of Spanish military seals between the Plaza España and Batería Baja de San Diego, a section of the wall lined with cannons and guard towers. 

Ruinas Aduana Colonial.  A series of ruins on the outside of the wall near the Alcázar de Colón. A plaza encompasses excavated sites with the exposed fountains of former stone buildings. 

Puerta de la Misericordia.  A historic gate along the colonial era wall of the Zona Colonial, recognizable by its coral stone and orange tinted plaster facade. It’s revered for its importance in the battle for Dominican independence. 

Fuerte San Gil.  A small defensive fortress perched on a cliffside overlooking the Caribbean. It’s easily accessible while walking the Malecón. 

Alcázar de Colón (Fortress of Columbus).  A Spanish style castle built by Diego Columbus, the son of Christopher Columbus. It’s now a museum housing colonial era artifacts. It was closed and under renovation when we visited but visible from the Plaza España. 

Panteón de la Patria.  A stately mausoleum on Calle Las Damas entombing the remains of honored Dominicans. Visit at 8am for the daily flag raising ceremony performed by military guards. 

Hospital San Nicolás de Bari.  The crumbling brick and stone ruins of a 500+ year old colonial era hospital. It’s a picturesque sight visible from beyond its gated fence.

The Ruins of San Francisco.  The crumbling brick and stone ruins of a colonial era monastery. They can be viewed from the surrounding streets and partially explored but not entered. 

Catedral Primada de las Américas.  The first cathedral built in the Americas, dating back over 500 years. Its coral stone exterior is reminiscent of a medieval fortress with Gothic windows, large wooden doors, decorative emblems and statues. Its tall vaulted interior is lined with pews, gilded statues, small chapels and tombs. 

Iglesia Conventual de los Dominicos.  A 16th century Dominican cathedral with an ornamented entrance decorated with plasterwork, handprinted tiles, coral stone, red brick and a mustard orange painted facade. There is an unusual bronze sculpture of Jesus, only recognizable by the wounds in his feet, sleeping on a park bench. 

Iglesia de Nuestra Senora del Carmen.  A small brick and plaster church with a singular bell tower above its door. It’s located next to the Iglesia Conventual de los Dominicos. 

Catedral Castrense de Santa Bárbara.  A picturesque red brick and coral stone cathedral with colorful stained glass windows and a neo-classical style bell tower. The cathedral is surrounded by a park with bronze statues depicting Dominican life, important figures and scenes from the Bible.

Fuerte Santa Bárbara.  A cannon lined lookout platform at one corner of the city’s wall. It’s accessible from the amphitheater behind the Catedral Castrense de Santa Bárbara.

Ron Barcelo Factory Tour

Rum is a major export from the Dominican Republic with Ron Barcelo bring one of the Caribbean nation’s top producers. A factory tour is one of the best ways to learn about and taste Dominican rum!

The tour begins at the welcome center with an introduction to the history of rum making in the Dominican Republic. A guide leads through multiple warehouses lined floor to ceiling with oak barrels filled with aging rum before visiting the barrel workshop, where barrels are repaired and their interiors are flamed. The tour overlooks the production areas where barrels are filled and sealed for aging, as well as the large stainless steel tanks used for distillation and storage. A window peers into the bottling facility, where bottles are filled, labeled and boxed for distribution. The experience returns to the welcome center with a deeper dive into Ron Barceló’s history, accompanied by a house cocktail and concluding with a tasting of three different rums. Book the Ron Barcelo Anejo Experience Factory Tourwith transportation from Santo Domingo with Mama Juana Travel.

Good to Know.  The factory is located over an hour from Santo Domingo’s Zona Colonial. 

Places to Shop

Galeria Bolós.  An art gallery featuring purchasable works by Dominican artists including paintings, sculptures, objects and jewelry. We purchased a wooden sculpture of a banana bunch!

La Casa de los Dulces.  A colmado specializing in traditonal Dominican sweets made from ingredients like coconut, sugar cane, sweetened condensed milk, peanuts and tamarind. 

Amber Museum.  A museum dedicated to Dominican amber, prized for its clarity and inclusions of ancient insects. Their museum shop sells certified and genuine amber jewelry sourced from mines in the country. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Morrofino Bar de Tapas.  A Spanish style tapas restaurant with an outdoor patio overlooking the Plaza España. Come here for the most perfectly cooked seafood paellas, grilled Galician octopus and red wine sangria. 

Maraca.  An elevated Dominican restaurant specializing in tapas like tuna ceviche, breadfruit and plantain tostones, deep fried goat cheese olives and fried fish tacos. The restaurant is hidden behind a pink painted door in an art deco style building. It opens up to an extravagant interior styled with bohemian and tropical decor. 

Jalao.  An energetic restaurant in Parque Colon with Dominican cuisine and musical performances. Come here for the Sancocho, Asopao and house made Mama Juana. 

Alterno Café.  A coffee shop serving Dominican coffee and local pastries like canella (cinnamon) rolls and queso de hoja (cheese) empanadas.

Casa Barista & Co.  An elevated coffee shop with Dominican grown coffee and Dominican breakfast dishes like Arepa Dominicana made with ripe plantain and queso de hoja or Mangú, a puree made with a mixture of plantain, yautía and ñame.

Museo del Ron Dominicano.  A bar specializing in Dominican rums with craft cocktails and rum tastings. It’s housed inside of a museum space with galleries of historic rum making artifacts, rum barrels and sugar cane plantings.  

Parada 77.  A vibrant hub for nightlife, music and dancing! Come here during the late nights and on weekends for Presidente beers and a Santo Libre while listening to the Merengue and Bachata beats. 

Colmado Omar.  A traditional Dominican convenience store specializing in alcoholic beverages, particularly local beers like Presidente and rums like Barcelo and Brugal. Visit Colmado Omar I and sit at the bar counter or Colmado Omar II and join locals in the Plaza María de Toledo. 

D Comer Colonial.  An affordable buffet style restaurant specializing in Dominican and Creole cuisine. They offer freshly prepared dishes that can accommodate vegetarians, pescatarians and meat-eaters.

Republica Brewing Draft Room.  A tap room pouring a range of Dominican craft beers. Come here for a flight to taste multiple styles and flavors. Try the Mangu Sour made with tropical fruits and the Porter made with cocoa.  

Onno’s Bar.  A lively bar with a large list of classic cocktails and menu of food. It’s a chain with locations across the country. Beware of their “fake” happy hours. 

Paletas Bajo Cero.  An ice cream shop selling dozens of fruit and milk based flavors of paletas (popsicles). Try the watermelon with mint, avocado with sweet milk, coconut lemonade and tequila with red fruit. 

Yuppi.  A takeaway bar offering frozen fruit cocktails like passion fruit daiquiris, classic mojitos, strawberry margaritas and piña coladas.

Dominican Cuisine & Drinks 

Mangú.  A green plantain and root vegetable puree commonly eaten at breakfast. The dish is often garnished with pickled or caramelized onions and paired with fried cheese, salami and eggs. 

Sancocho Dominicano.  A Caribbean style stew often cooked with a mixture of meats and vegetables like beef, pork, chicken, yuca, plantains and yautía. It’s typically meat forward but can be prepared and served vegetarian. 

Asopao.  A Caribbean soup made from a tomato broth with rice and sofrito. It can be prepared with or without meat or seafood. 

Pescado con Coco.  A dish local to the Samaná Peninsula made with a fried, grilled or steamed fish simmered in a creamy coconut milk, tomato and garlic sauce.

Mofongo.  A fried green plantain mash often served with a savory tomato sauce and protein like seafood or meat. 

Tostones.  Twice fried and smashed green plantains often served as a side dish. 

Tapas.  Spanish style tapas and cuisine are immensely popular across the Dominican Republic. Common dishes include grilled octopus, paella and ceviche. 

Fruits.  Tropical and exotic fruits grow abundantly across the island. Try fresh cacao, red bananas, papaya, pineapple, coconut, passion fruit and mountain apples. 

Presidenté.  The national beer of the Dominican Republic. It comes in three varieties: original, light and black. 

Santo Libre.  A Dominican cocktail made with Sprite and amber or gold rum. It’s the Dominican Republic’s response to Cuba’s Cuba Libre cocktail. 

Mama Juana.  A popular tonic served, sold and made at home all across the Dominican Republic. It consists of rum and red wine aged in a bottle for a minimum of two weeks with a mixture of wood, bark, vines and spices. 

Location Specifics

Dress Codes.  There is a strictly enforced dress code at most restaurants and bars. No flip flops, sandals, shorts, low cut dresses or tank tops are allowed. 
Cash vs Card.  Most businesses accept credit card in Santo Domingo though carrying some cash comes in handy for museum tickets and small expenses. Both the Dominican Peso and US Dollar are widely accepted. 

Taxes & Tipping.  There is a mandatory 18% tax on all purchases and a legally applied 10% tip at most restaurants, cafes and bars. Tipping beyond that is discretionary, anything from 5-10% more is typical for great service. 

Closed Days.  Many sights, restaurants and businesses are closed on Monday and Tuesday.  

General Safety.  The Zona Colonial is a safe neighborhood that only requires typical precautions. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Rights remain restricted on the national level however there is general acceptance of lesbian and gay couples. PDA is typically frowned upon. 

Getting Around.  The Zona Colonia is very walkable and best explored on foot. To get around elsewhere in the city and between the airport, use Uber. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe to consume in Santo Domingo. Stick to bottled water. 

Beaches.  There are no clean beaches in Santo Domingo. The waters near the city are heavily polluted.

Where to Stay 

Casa Santa Bárbara.  A vacation rental in the Santa Bárbara neighborhood of the Zona Colonial.  The two bedroom apartment is equipped with a full kitchen, bathroom and separate outdoor shower. It shares an outdoor courtyard and rooftop patio with the hosts. The entire home feels like an art gallery with Dominican paintings, sculptures and decor. Book on Airbnb.

Elsewhere in The Dominican Republic 

From the historic streets of Santo Domingo to lush mountain landscapes, waterfalls and pristine beaches, discover more of the Dominican Republic beyond its capital.

Samaná Peninsula Travel Guide: Nature, Beaches & Waterfalls.  Discover lush tropical landscapes, hidden waterfalls, palm lined beaches and some of the Dominican Republic's most dramatic coastal scenery.

For Next Time…

There were renovations being completed on multiple sites and streets during our time in Santo Domingo. When we return, we plan to re-visit them for a fuller experience. 

Museo de Las Casas Reales.  The former capital of colonial Santo Domingo converted into a museum with colonial era artifacts. 

Alcázar de Colón (Fortress of Columbus).  A Spanish style castle built by Diego Columbus, the son of Christopher Columbus. It’s now a museum housing colonial era artifacts. 

Cuesta de la Calle Hostos.  A hilly section of Calle Hostos with views of its colorfully painted homes and buildings. 

The Ultimate Costa Rica Road Trip: Arenal, Wildlife & Beaches

Costa Rica, Nature & Biodiversity

Costa Rica is a lush and biodiverse country in Central America known for its tropical rainforests, active volcanos, nature reserves and exotic wildlife. We spent a week road tripping across the country, splitting our time equally between the Arenal Volcano in the mountains and Manuel Antonio Park on the Pacific coast.

San Jose, The Gateway to Costa Rica 

San Jose is the capital city and gateway to Costa Rica. Located in the center of the country, it’s an easy point to begin and end any roadtrip from. We flew in around midnight and spent the evening at the nearby Hotel Mango before beginning our road trip the following morning. Reserve a rental car with Sixt.

Volcán Arenal 

The Arenal Volcano is known for its symmetrical cone shape, hardened lava fields, hiking trails and large lake. We drove here from San Jose and arrived by early afternoon then hiked for about 3 hours. 

Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal

We hiked the Reserva Mirador el Silencio Loop at the Arenal 1968 Park, the site of a 1968 eruption. It connects multiple trails through lush secondary forest, hardened lava fields and dense primary forest around a lagoon. At the end of the hike is small restaurant with snacks and beverages. 

Arenal Hot Springs

The area around the Arenal Volcano has several hot springs and resorts. We visited the Ecotermales Hot Springs for a relaxing evening after our hike. The hot springs consist of several cascading thermal pools ranging in temperature from hottest at the top to coolest at the bottom. The upper pool has a steamy waterfall that feeds into lower pools. A second waterfall flows into the bottom pool with seats below it. The resort offers Costa Rican cuisine like rice & beans, yucca, fish in a coconut sauce and sweet plantains. Photo credit to Trip Advisor. 

Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park

The Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park is an eco park with 16 suspension bridges and nature trails weaving through the rain forest. The largest bridges are suspended over ravines and cut through the tree top canopy. The smallest bridges cross narrow streams and crevices. Massive trees, some hundreds of feet tall, line the trails alongside vibrant flowers and a small waterfall. The nature walk takes up to 3 hours at a leisurely pace while watching for wildlife and animals. The eco park has a restaurant overlooking the Arenal Volcano and verdant landscape. 

Pro Tips. Arrive at 8am before the large tour groups to experience the trails and bridges mostly on your own. We tickets online and ahead of time to secure the earlier time slot. Book here. 

Venado Caves 

The Venado Cave system is an underground network of dark chambers, flooded passageways and crystalline rock formations. Fitted with headlamps and helmets, a guide led into its depths of its main chamber and sub chambers. Book with Ecoterra Costa Rica on Viator. 

The Main Chamber.  A river leads upstream into the mouth of the cave and its main chamber. The underground river continues deeper into the cave and its numbers sub chambers. 

The Raining Room.  A narrow passageway led through an 18 inch wide crevice to the “Raining Room.” Water dripped from the ceiling and down the chamber walls as if raining underground. We shimmied and climbed 10ft vertically back into the main chamber. 

The Waterfall Room. The main chamber led to an underground waterfall with a secondary chamber hidden behind it. The room beyond is covered in a tiered flow stone comprised of sparking and rippled layers of sediment. 

The Papaya Room.  A chamber accessible by ladder from the “Waterfall Room” with a several million year old flow stone that resembles the shape of a papaya.

The Flooded Tunnel.  The sub chambers continued deeper int the cave past stalactites and stalagmites to a “Flooded Tunnel,” only large enough to crawl through with our heads above the surface of the water. 

The Indiana Jones Room.  The “Flooded Tunnel” continued into a narrow crevice only wide enough to fit through sideways. It lead to the “Indiana Jones Room,” a chamber with a rushing waterfall and round boulder suspended between two rocks. 

An Underground Ecosystem.  The cave is home to an underground ecosystem of cave dwelling creatures. Fruit and vampire bats hang from the ceilings and fluttered around its chambers. Large cave crickets, cockroaches and scorpion spiders lurk on cave walls. Catfish swim downriver and between chambers. 

Sloth’s Territory

Sloth’s Territory is a nature preserve and protected habitat where sloths freely roam. Led by a guide, we walked through the preserve’s trails spotting several sloths climbing trees, sleeping in the sun and eating leaves. We even spotted a baby sloth slowly climbing along side its mother. In addition to sloths, we spotted toucans and tiny red and blue poison dart frogs. 

Sloth Spotting Tips.  Look for trees with large 5 pointed leaves that resemble stars. These trees are tall and thin with white and brown bark. Look for dark masses sitting on tree branches. They are often sloths curled up and sleeping. 

La Fortuna 

A small town at the base of the Arenal Volcano with restaurants, hotels and souvenir shops. We stayed here while exploring the nearby sights. 

Brisas Arenal Hotel.  An eco-hotel with individual wooden cottages, nearby nature trails and views of the Arenal Volcano. The main guest house has a restaurant that delivered us fruit bowls and coffee for breakfast and a fridge to buy beers from during the evening. Book here!

Snapper.  A seafood restaurant with a tasty menu. We ordered volcano margaritas (spicy margs), seared tuna, baby shrimp arepas, a whole fried snapper, coconut seafood stew and tres leches.

On The Road

After leaving La Fortuna, we began our drive to Manuel Antonio stopping at a scenic overlook for lunch, to see a crocodile infested river and for a sunset dinner on the beach. 

La Casita del Cafe.  A roadside restaurant perched on a cliff with panoramic views of the lush and rugged mountainous landscape. We shared two common Costa Rican dishes, Sopa Negra, and Casado. 

Rio Tarcoles.  A river on the route to Manuel Antonio known for its massive crocodiles. We parked at a souvenir stand and walked to the bridge overlooking the river. From here we saw dozens of 12ft long crocodile swimming and resting along the islands and banks of the river.

Jaco Beach.  A beach town with a lengthly palm lined beach with a dark sandy shore, surf schools and waterfront restaurants. We enjoyed a sunset dinner at a spot called Tiki Bar. Come for the fish tacos, shrimp skewers and tropical cocktails. 

Manuel Antonio National Park

Manuel Antonio National Park is a nature preserve known for its biodiversity, rainforest, beaches, coral reefs, sloths, iguanas, spider monkeys, howler monkeys and hermit crabs. We spent an entire day in the park from opening until close hiking through the trails, visiting the beaches and spotting wildlife.

Manuel Antonio Trails

Sendero Principal.  The park’s main trail. A 2.2km path that leads from the park entrance to Manuel Antonio Beach. Many guides spot sloths from here.

Sendero Perezoso (Sloth Trail).  A 1.2 km trail that leads into the rainforest alongside Sendero Principal. It’s a good place to spot 2 and 3 toed sloths.

Sendero Punta Catedral.  A 1.4km loop along the Tómbolo land bridge leading to the Punta Catedral Point lookout. We heard and spotted several howler monkey’s here. 

Sendero Playas Gemelas (Gemelas Beach Trail).  A 1.6km trail off of Sendero Principal that leads to Gemelas Beach and the Escondido Beach lookout.

Sendero Mirador.  A 1.3km cliffside trail that leads to Escondido Beach. It is an extension of Sendero Playas Gemelas. We couldn’t finish the trail because the boardwalk was badly damaged. 

Manuel Antonio Beaches 

Espadilla Beach South.  A long bow shaped beach with a narrow shoreline in Manuel Antonio Park. It’s a continuation of the city beach. 

Manuel Antonio Beach.  The park’s main beach with a white sand shore hugging the tree line of the lush rainforest.

Playa Gemelas.  A small natural beach reachable by the Sendero Playas Gemelas. 

Hiring a Guide or Not? 

Hiring a naturalist guide guarantees you will spot a sloth in Manuel Antonio however it’s not necessary. Guides will stay along the main road because it’s easier to spot sloths and other animals from. We opted out of hiring one and walked the Sloth Trail adjacent to the main road. It’s less traveled and equally as easy to spot sloths. We created a rag-tag group with other travelers on the trail and used our combined eye sight to spot sloths, monkeys, toucans, crabs and poison dart frogs. 

Pro Tip 1.  Guides can be hired at the entrance to the park for a negotiable fee depending on the length of hire.

Pro Tip 2.  If without a guide, do not trail too closely behind them. They can get aggressive if they hear you listening in or watching sights they point out.

Pro Tip 3.  If you don’t hire a guide, being a good pair of binoculars view wildlife with.

Helpful Park Information 

Hours.  The park is open from 7am - 4pm daily (closed on Tuesday)

Tickets.  You need to book tickets online ahead of time. 

No Plastic or Food.  Single use plastic, alcohol or food is forbidden in the park, except at park restaurants.

Parking.  Arrive early and look for parking at the park entrance past all the scammers pretending to be park staff along the roadside. Parking should cost no more than 5,000 Colones. 

Espadilla Beach North

A lengthy beach extending outside of Manuel Antonio park with soft sandy shores and swimmable waters. There are nearby restaurants, beach bars, souvenir shops, surf schools and chair & umbrella rentals. Visit Aguas Azules for parasailing tours above Manuel Antonio’s deep blue bay, sandy coastline, rocky outcrops and lush jungle. 

El Santuario Canopy Adventure Tour

A semi-remote adventure park nearby Manuel Antonio. The course includes 10 zip-lines, 6 canopy bridges, 3 nature walks and 1 repelling challenge through the forest. It includes Costa Rica’s longest zip-line at 4,300 ft. We got to ride a shorter one upside down. They offer two morning tours lasting about 4 hours each. Both include a fruit breakfast and lunch. Pictures cost $20 extra. Book here!

Manuel Antonio Finca 

A town located outside of the Manuel Antonio National Park on the Pacific Coast. It’s a jungly beach town with hotels, restaurants, bars and nearby adventure activities.

Places to Eat & Drink 

El Avión.  An open air restaurant with wooden furniture built around an abandoned US military cargo plane. We ordered the crispy fried whole red snapper. 

Contra Bar.  A bar within the cargo plane at El Avión. We ordered a round of drinks and enjoyed them in the cockpit.  

Cafe Milagro.  A cafe in a tropical garden with house roasted coffee and breakfast dishes like guava and cheese crepes, banana pancakes and fresh fruit.

Restaurante Buru Seaside Manuel Antonio.  Stop here for 2 for 1 happy hour cocktails from 3-6pm and sunset views after spending the day in Manuel Antonio park.

Meduza Restaurant.  A hotel restaurant with a limited menu. We ordered and shared the seafood rice with a bottle of Imperial, Costa Rica’s most popular beer. 

Where to Stay

We stayed at Mango Moon Villa, A boutique hotel located nearby Manuel Antonio National Park. The hotel has views overlooking the Pacific Ocean. We stargazed in the evening and watched toucans and monkeys move between trees during the day. It includes restaurant and bar with breakfast and dinner service.

Costa Rican Cuisine 

When it comes to cuisine, Costa Rica is the land of tropical fruit, rice and beans. 

Tropical Fruits.  Tropical fruits are grown, sold and served across the country. Fresh papaya, watermelon, pineapple and banana are regularly served for breakfast alongside a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice.

Gallo Pinto.  A rice and bean mixture served with a slice of fried plantain, scrambled eggs, queso palmito (fried cheese) and tortilla. It’s a common breakfast dish. 

Sopa Negra.  A black bean soup with cilantro and a hard boiled egg. Typically served for lunch or dinner.

Casado.  The national dish, a plate with rice, beans, grilled veggies, pasta salad, fried fish (or any meat protein), tortilla and sweet plantain. It’s typically served for lunch or dinner.

Imperial.  Costa Rica’s national beer served almost everywhere. Order one at a bar or a bucket at the beach. 

Driving in Costa Rica

Driving in Costa Rica is very scenic and one of the best ways to explore the country. Curvy roads snake through valleys and along mountain ridges with steep sections and roadside lookouts. 

• Visibility.  Rain and fog drastically reduces visibility the higher we drove in altitude. 

• Road Conditions.  Main roads are well maintained while back roads were often unpaved or in need of repair. 

• Rent a 4WD.  A 4 wheel drive is necessary to navigate the roads. 

• Narrow Lanes.  Many roads outside of the cities are 2 lanes wide with the occasional 1 lane bridge. 

• Traffic Jams.  Traffic within and into the San Jose was congested. 

• Refueling.  Gas stations attendants pump gas for you. 

• Speed Bumps.  There are speed bumps in towns often with vendors set up selling snacks, fruit and juice. 

• Falling Fruit.  Don’t park under any fruit trees. Coconuts, papaya or other falling fruit can badly damage your car. This is often not covered by rental insurance.

For Next Time…

Costa Rica is one of the most incredible places we’ve had the pleasure to traveling to. From its bio diversity to breathtaking landscapes, it’s a destination that has left us wanting to return and explore more. When we do, some locations at the top of our list are: 

Poás Volcano National Park.  The largest and most active volcano in Costa Rica with a gaseous crater, hot springs and hiking trails. 

Guanacaste.  A Provence in the northwest of the country with surfing beaches, nature reserves, volcanoes, hot springs, waterfall and wildlife 

Refugio Nacional Gandoca-Manzanillo.  A marine reserve on the Caribbean side of the country with white sand beaches, coral reefs, mangrove forests and wetlands. 

Curaçao Travel Guide: Willemstad, Beaches & Island Culture

Curaçao, The Dutch Caribbean 

Curaçao is a Dutch Caribbean Island with vibrantly painted buildings, musical nightlife, aquamarine shorelines, rugged seaside cliffs and dry forests home to many species of cacti, lizards & tropical birds. 

Willemstad 

Willemstad, the picturesque capital of Curaçao, is renowned for its colorful Dutch style architecture and vibrant charm. Its central neighborhoods, Punda, Otrobanda and Pietermaai define the city’s character, offering a mix of local culture, historic landmarks, markets, artificial beaches and boutique stays. Live music echos from restaurants and bars, creating an inviting atmosphere for both lively outings and relaxed evenings on outdoor patios.

Punda Neighborhood 

Punda is the historic center of Willemstad. It’s a mostly pedestrian neighborhood popular for its colorful colonial architecture, historic sights, local markets, souvenir shops, brand name stores, cocktail bars and restaurants with outdoor dining. 

Handelsakade.  An iconic waterfront skyline comprised of Dutch colonial buildings painted in vibrant colors with minimal ornamentation and steep tiled roofs. Shops, restaurants and bars line the street level. Visit the Iguana Cafe for a glass of wine at sunset!

Queen Emma Pontoon Bridge.  A swinging wooden pedestrian bridge that connects both sides of the St. Anna Bay. It opens several times daily to let ships pass in and out of the harbor. It’s lit up in a colorful arches reminiscent of an amusement park boardwalk at night. 

Queen Wilhelmina Park.  A plaza with public artwork, photo moments, landmark buildings and touristy restaurants serving island food and tropical cocktails. 

Punda Vibes.  A bustling festival held in Queen Wilhelmina Park with local artists, live music, street performers and a firework show. It’s held every Thursday from 6-10pm. 

De Buren.  A touristy restaurant in Queen Wilhelmina Park offering Dutch snacks like fried fish kibbling and smoked gouda bitterballen. Order a blue lagoon made from the island’s famed rum, Blue Curaçao.

Punda Markets.  Punda is home to multiple markets offering local cuisine, fresh produce and souvenirs. 

• Plasa Bieu Market.  A food hall with several kitchens preparing traditional Curaçaoan dishes and meals. By lunchtime, the market’s colorful picnic tables are packed with locals and travelers looking for an authentic and affordable meal. The savory smells of dishes like okra soup, iguana stew, roasted goat, fried mahi mahi and sweet plantains waft through the air.   

• Floating Market.  A waterfront market as colorful as the city’s buildings with merchants selling fresh seafood and tropical produce. Vendors historically dock along the pier and unload their goods including red snapper, pineapple, papaya, plantain, watermelon, banana, oranges, coconut, limes, hot peppers and more. 

• The New Market.  A circular concrete pavilion with tables of vendors selling produce, spices, herbal remedies, souvenirs and clothes. 

Otrobanda Neighborhood 

Otrobanda is a historic neighborhood and Arts District with colorful buildings, large murals, alleyway exhibits, painted stairs and historical markers. It feels more local with less tourists than other areas in Willemstad while offering some of the best views of Handelsakade from the St Anna Bay.

Rif Fort.  A former colonial fort guarding the entrance to the harbor made from coral brick and stone walls. It’s been converted into a mall with boardwalks, seaside overlooks and a central courtyard with restaurants and shops. 

Curaçao Rif Mangrove Park.  A protected mangrove forest in the center of Willemstad with a floating boardwalk, a lookout tower, educational signs and kayak rentals. The park is teeming with biodiversity. We spotted eels, puffer fish, barracuda, hermit crabs, upside-down jellyfish, yellow headed parquets, butterflies and varying species of fish and birds. 

Places to Eat & Drink

• Swinging Old Lady.  A brewery overlooking the harbor and skyline with a mix of local and imported beers. We shared a flight while watching the Queen Emma Pontoon Bridge open and close for passing ships. Try the Waka Waka, an IPA made with Curaçao orange peels. 

• Harbor Restaurant Curaçao.  A hotel restaurant with views of the St Anna Bay and Handelsakade. Come here for classic breakfast dishes like omelettes, fresh fruit & Poffertjes (mini Dutch pancakes). 

• Maria’s Kitchen.  A breakfast and brunch spot offering baked goofs, egg dishes and fresh juices. It’s located inside of a converted colonial home. 

Kurá Hulanda Village 

Kurá Hulanda is a semi-hidden village with in the Otrobanda neighborhood. Its cobble stone alleyways and plazas are surrounded by restored colonial buildings with colorful facades, tropical greenery, vibrant murals and Afro Caribbean statues. It’s home to locals, expats, boutique shops, hotels and restaurants. Musicians perform in outdoor patios under the soft glow of twinkle lights each night, creating a relaxing and romantic atmosphere. 

Saturday Morning Market.  Local vendors set up booths in the village’s plazas and alleyways selling crafts, handmade items, souvenirs and edible goods each Saturday morning. We bought scotch bonnet pepper chili oil and freshly made stroopwafels.

Kurá Hulanda Museum.  A history museum with exhibits about the brutality of transatlantic slave trade and the enslaved people brought to Curaçao from Western Africa. It’s an extremely well organized museum with multiple exhibits on pre-colonial African cultures, the atrocities and horrific accounts of slavery, the abolitionist and equal rights movements in the US. Exhibits include African artifacts, iron shackles, nautical maps, newspaper clippings, bills of sale from slave auctions. It’s a very sobering museum and one that can’t be overlooked. You need a minimum of 1 hour to fully explore the museum and learn about the history.

Lionfish Caribbean.  A restaurant serving dishes made from invasive lion fish, like ceviche, fish & chips and tacos. The fish and chips is served with portions of the spines and fins still attached. Uncooked spines and fins are used to create jewelry. It’s only open for lunch. 

Rustica.  An open air restaurant with delicious cocktails, fresh coconuts and a menu of dishes local to Curaçao. We shared a spread of dishes including: 

• Baklou.  A dish made from stewed cod, polenta and sweet plantain 

• Banana.  A mash of boiled green and sweet plantain mixed with chimichuri, coconut milk and okra 

• Pampuna.  A pumpkin and rum raisin pancake with frozen ponche de creme  

• Mosa Nena.  A cocktail made from rum, local tamarind and star anise

• Krioyo Ku Orguyo. A cocktail made oregano punch with kiwi, elderflower and basil

Flores.  A restaurant with a large romantic outdoor patio. They have music until 10pm and stay open even later. Stop in for a night cap after a day of beaching and exploring the island.  

Pietermaai Neighborhood 

A neighborhood east of Punda with Dutch style row houses, vibrantly painted buildings, small shops, boutique hotels, small beachfront resorts, cafes, restaurants and bars. Come here during the evenings, especially from Thursday to Saturday for the night life and live music.

Nieuwestraat.  A street known for nightlife with live music and several restaurants and bars that seamlessly spill out onto the street. This was a favorite area to go out! 

Places to Eat & Drink 

• Mundo Bizarro.  A bustling two floor cocktail bar with a live brass band. On Thursday nights, locals and tourists fill the bar and its ally as the band and bartenders fuel the ambiance. On Saturday night, the scene is tamer with experienced salsa dancers taking to the floor and showing off their moves.

• Tiki Loco.  A cocktail bar located along a lively section of Nieuwestraat serving tropical drinks and island bites. Tiki torches and live music provide an ambient setting in the outdoor patio.

• Blues Bar Restaurant.  An ocean view restaurant at Avila Beach Hotel serving Caribbean cuisine. Try the tropical tuna tartare with avocado and mango, the whole fried red snapper, conch burger, funchi fries and piña colada ice cream. 

• Van Gogh Specialty Coffee & City Roastery.  A coffee shop in a blue painted dutch colonial house. Order the pumpkin pastechi,a pastry similar to baked empanada, oregano kombucha and house roasted coffee.

Westpunt 

Westpunt is the northwestern area of Curaçao. It’s defined by its nature including limestone cliffs, white sand beaches, turquoise waters, snorkeling spots & hiking trails.

Christoffel Mountain Trail.  A hike to the summit of Christoffel Mountain, the tallest natural point on Curaçao, standing at 1,220ft above sea level. The trail leads through dry forest past all manner of prickly and spiky bushes and cacti. Watch for wildlife like whiptail blue lizards, green parquets, orange breasted Venezuelan troupials and yellow orioles. The summit views are spectacular with sweeping views of the island’s dry forest and turquoise coastline. 

Pro Tip.  Wear proper hiking shoes. Sections of the trail are steep and eroded with jagged rocks and loose gravel. 

Good to Know.  Due to extreme heat, the trail is only accessible before 10am. Purchase tickets from the visitor center before 7am. It takes an hour to reach the summit and another hour to descend. 

Shete Boka National Park.  A coastal park where large waves crash into limestone cliffs, bays and caves. A series of nature trails leads through the park.

• Boka Tabla.  A half submerged coastal cave where you can watch waves crash from both an observation deck above and within the cave itself.

• Boka Kalki.  A limestone cliff and inlet where powerful waves crash dramatically, sending sprays of water through small blowholes along its eastern side.

• Boka Pistol.  A horseshoe shaped cliff that forcefully blasts seawater back into the ocean as large waves crash against it. A nature trail leads here from Boka Kalki. 

Hato Caves.  A limestone cave with stalactites, stalagmites and 1,500 year old petroglyphs carved by indigenous peoples. The caves were used as a hideaway by enslaved people that escaped the plantations. A nature trail continues outside of the cave, passing cacti, coral cliffs and small caves with petroglyphs.

Good to Know.  The cave can only be toured with a guide. Tours leave on the hour when operating. It’s located near the airport making it easy to visit before flying out. 

Salt Lake Willibrodus.  A salt lake home to wild flamingos with a roadside observation deck. We spotted a small group over 100ft away and watch another group fly off in the distance. 

Pro Tip.  Bring binoculars or a long range lens for better views of the birds. 

Curaçao Beaches 

Most beaches are located along the south shore of Curaçao, nestled between limestone cliffs or at resorts. We visited several in Westpunt and around Willemstad. 

Playa Forti.  A cliffside beach famed for cliff jumping! The restaurant on the cliff overlooking the beach is the best location to jump. Depending on the tide, the distance is 40-45ft above the water. 

Pro Tip. To minimize the risk of injury, position yourself perfectly vertical like pencil before hitting the water!

Playa Kalki.  A narrow beach on the island’s far north shore with calm aquamarine waters ideal for swimming. Floating platforms and rentable lounges offer places to relax. There is a restaurant, bar and dive shop on the beach and small resort on the cliff above it. 

Playa Grandi.  A popular beach to snorkel with sea turtles attracted by local fishermen’s chum. Visit before 8am when it’s least busy and the water is clear. Choose a different beach to swim and lounge at. 

Grote Knip.  A popular white sand beach with clear turquoise waters perfect for swimming, snorkeling and cliff jumping from a 20 foot ledge. Vendors rent umbrellas, lounges and snorkel gear. The southern cliff is the best place to spot marine life like parrotfish, pufferfish and barracuda. Food truck vendors sell local fritters and smoothies in the parking lot.

Kleine Knip.  A quiet and smaller golden sand beach popular with locals. It’s located less than 5 minutes south of Grote Knip.

Mambo Beach.  A large artificial beach with turquoise waters, white sand shores, palm trees, chair and umbrella rentals and a multi level board walk with restaurants, bars, resorts, shops and clubs. We spent an afternoon here lounging on the beach and drinking cocktails from two of the beachfront bars, Chill Beach Bar & Grill and Hemingway. It’s located 10 minutes south of Willemstad. 

Blauwbaai (Blue Bay Beach).  An artificial beach at the Blue Bay Resort with a palm lined shore and high end beachfront restaurant, Brass Boer. There is a fee to access to beach and use its amenities. It’s located 20 minutes north of Willemstad. 

Beach Restaurants 

Jaanchie Restaurant.  A long running restaurant near Playa Grandi with traditional stewed meats like iguana, goat, beef, fish and shrimp. Stews are served with rice & beans and fried plantains. Order the oregano punch!

Restaurant Playa Forti.  A restaurant built on the site of an old Dutch fort overlooking Playa Forti. Try the grilled conch, fried plantains and veggie Keshi Yena, a local dish made with vegetables covered in a layer of cheese.

Brass Boer.  A high end restaurant at the Blue Bay Beach Resort offering a 6 course tasting menu and wine parings. Our menu included a range of vegetarian and pescatarian dishes with Dutch, Caribbean and Japanese influences. Two of our favorites were the filet of red snapper with pickled veggies and the roasted cabbage with a creamy orange sauce and crumbled pistachio. Come hungry and expect the meal to last longer than 3 hours. 

Curaçao Cuisine 

• Stews.  Iguana, goat, beef, fish and okra stews are common local dishes.

• Seafood.  Conch, fried red snapper, mahi mahi and garlic shrimp are all popular.

• Pastechi.  A stuffed savory pastry similar to an Empanada made from flaky dough.

• Funchi.  Fried corn dough similar to polenta. It’s often served like French fries.

• Plantains.  A type of savory green banana served on its own or as an ingredient cooked into other dishes. 

• Keshi Yena.  A dish made with a base of protein and covered in a layer of cheese. 

• Poffertjes.  Dutch style mini pancakes often served with fruit at breakfast, 

• Bitterballen.  Deep fried cheese balls. It’s a common Dutch pub dish or street food served on some menus. 

• Kibbling.  Deep fried pieces of fish. It’s a common Dutch pub dish or street food served on some menus. 

• Oregano Juice.  A herbal juice made with pressed oregano leaves. It’s herbal, semi-sweet and refreshing.

• Brasa.  A local beer with a similar taste to Corona but slightly citric. 

• Blue Lagoon.  A classic cocktail made with Blue Curacao, vodka and lemonade. 

Where to Stay

Kurá Hulanda Townhouse.  A one bedroom apartment in the middle of the Kurá Hulanda Village. We stayed here for 4 nights while exploring Willemstad and elsewhere across the island. Book on Airbnb.

Location Specifics

Language.  Most people speak English however Dutch and Papiamento (a creole language based on Spanish and Portuguese) are most commonly spoken. 

Cash vs Card.  Most places accept credit cards but having some cash is important. The Antillean Guilder & the US Dollar are both used on the island.

Getting Around: Willemstad is easily walkable while the best way to get around the island is by car. 

Water Shoes.  Wear water shoes at all beaches to avoid discomfort from jagged washed up coral.

Sun Protection.  Curaçao is a desert island in the tropics! Wear sunblock to avoid the harmful UV. 

For Next Time… 

Curaçao is part of the ABC island chain, including Aruba and Bonaire. We plan to visit the later to explore their beaches, marine parks and Dutch colonial buildings. 

Southwestern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Cabo Rojo, La Parguera & Beyond

Southwestern Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico’s southwestern region is home to some of the island’s most diverse landscapes and historic pueblos. The Caribbean coast features unspoiled beaches, protected marine reserves, a bioluminescent bay and pink salt flats. Hiking trails meander through the dry forest while scenic mountain roads reveal sweeping panoramic views of the region’s lush terrain. Historic mountain towns and vibrant pueblos provide rich cultural experiences and culinary delights. During adventures to the region, we’ve explored Cabo Rojo, San Germán, Lajas, Yauco and Guánica.

Cabo Rojo

Cabo Rojo is a picturesque corner of the island with pink salt flats, Caribbean beaches and turquoise waters. 

Cabo Rojo Salt Flats

The Cabo Rojo Salt Flats are famed for their bright pink and light blue hued salt ponds. Stop into the Visitor Center to learn about the salt flats indigenous beginnings, current uses and the surrounding ecosystem. Climb the 3 story tall Observation Tower for views overlooking the salt flats and their multihued ponds. Continue further down the road for access to the salt flats and the narrow pathways separating the ponds. 

Good to Know.  Read recent reviews to gauge the current level of pinkness and accessibility. 

Vamos a la Playa 

Cabo Rojo is home to some of Puerto Rico’s most pristine beaches and scenic coves. We’ve beach hopped along the coast on previous visits to the region. 

Playa El Combate.   A lengthy tan sand beach with swimmable aquamarine waters and a shaded tree line near the town of El Combate. The water’s higher salinity, due to nearby salt flats, makes floating effortless in the calm waters. The section closest to town tends to be livelier while the southern half provides a quiet and scenic escape. The town is home to small hotels, restaurants and bars making it a popular getaway for locals and families. 

Pro Tip.  Arrive before 9am to find free parking along the roadside. 

Buyé Beach.  An extremely popular beach with a narrow white sand shore, turquoise hued cove and shaded tree line. Locals gather for sunny beach days as groups of jet skiers race off shore. Music fills the air as speakers blast Bad Bunny and Reggaetón. The lively shoreline is lined with colorful cottages and beach kiosks serving Puerto Rican cuisine alongside tropical cocktails and local beers. Visit the Sunset Shack for mojitos!

Pro Tip.  Arrive before 9am to find free parking along the roadside or pay $10 at the lot leading to the beach. 

Playa Sucia.  A crescent shaped beach covered in soft white sand hugging a turquoise bay. The beach overlooks distant cliffs and the Faro Los Morrillos Lighthouse. It’s a popular beach despite being semi-remote. Bring your own food, snacks and water for the day as there are no nearby kiosks or vendors. 

Pro Tip.  Like the other beaches, arrive early to find parking and a shaded spot under the tree line. 

Nature Trails & Sights 

There are a few nature trails that weave through the salt flats and desert terrain surrounding the ponds. We spent about two hours hiking through them and exploring the area. When coming here, wear sun protection, bring a sturdy umbrella and plenty of water. 

Observation Tower Loop. A trail leading through the dry forest from the visitor center to an observation tower overlooking a large salt pond.

Ruins Trail.  A trail that cuts across two large salt ponds, past a piles of salt and smaller ponds. The trail ends at the sea and connects to the Observation Tower Loop and Bikes Trail.

Bikes Trail.  A lengthy trail that weaves throughout the salt flats and along Playa El Combate. It can be hiked but is frequently used by mountain bikers. 

Faro Los Morrillos Lighthouse.  A cliffside lighthouse with panoramic views of the Caribbean Sea. Nature trails lead from The Cabo Rojo Salt Flats and Playa Sucia across the peninsula, rock formations and steep jagged cliffs. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Buena Vibra.  A restaurant with innovative Caribbean dishes and seafood like a ceviche filled pineapple, mahi mahi stuffed avocados and coconut encrusted grouper. It’s one of the best restaurants we’ve dined at on the island! Meals are pricy but worth every dollar. 

San Germán Pueblo

San Germán Pueblo is a charming mountain town deeply rooted in Puerto Rican culture and history. Its origins date back nearly 500 years to the early Spanish colonial period, time of French corsairs and indigenous rebellions. The historic center is defined by red brick and cobblestone streets, treelined and manicured plazas, colorfully painted and stylized buildings. It’s home to local residences, municipal buildings, churches, museums and restaurants. 

Plaza San Germán.  A historic plaza at the center of San Germán Pueblo. It’s surrounded by colonial era and landmark buildings including the town hall, theater and church. 

Plaza Santo Domingo.  A tree lined and brick paved plaza with green benches, bronze busts and overhanging strings twinkle lights. It’s flanked by historic wooden homes, colorful buildings and the Porta Coeli.

El Convento de Santo Domingo de Porta Coeli.  A 400+ year old church converted into a museum of religious artwork. It features paintings and wooden artifacts like hand carved statues, the stations of the cross and a large reredos. It overlooks the Plaza Santo Domingo.

Casa Morales.  A landmark house with ornamental designs, a wrap around porch and wooden shutters. It’s a central feature of the Plaza Santo Domingo.

Parroquia San Germán de Auxerre.  A 300+ year old neoclassical church located at one end of the Plaza San Germán. 

Museo del la Historia de San Germán. A historical museum with largely written exhibits about the history of San Germán and Puerto Rico from pre colonial times to modern day. 

Ceiba de la Libertad.  A 100+ year old Ceiba tree planted to commemorate Puerto Rico’s right to self governance from Spain in 1897. 

Places to Eat & Drink

El Cubujon.  A popular cocktail bar and lounge specializing in signature cocktails and reenvisioned classics. Try their Daiquiri made with Puerto Rican rum or the Pina Buena made with clarified citrus punch and coconut oil. 

Me Latte un Pocillo.  A brunch cafe in the Plaza San Germánoffering Puerto Rican coffee and waffles, omelettes and sandwiches. Sit at their sole outdoor table, overlooking the plaza, listening to the musical sounds of the town’s church bells. 

Yí Restaurant.  A Caribbean restaurant serving a fusion of Haitian, creole and Puerto Rican cuisine. Order the stuffed Mofongo, fried plantain mash and Accra, a yautia and malanga fritter.

Bosque Estatal de Maricao

Bosque Estatal de Maricao isa tropical forest covering the mountains bordering San Germán and Maricao. Drive along Ruta Panoramica 120 from the town of Sabana Grande to the town of Maricao to experience it. Stop at La Torre de Piedra, a castle shaped stone tower on a mountainous ridge overlooking the forest.

Lajas 

Lajas is a coastal region of Puerto Rico along the Caribbean Sea with fishing villages, mangrove forests, chains of cayos, turquoise sand bars and one of the island’s famed bioluminescent bays. Its inland valleys are abundant with pineapple farms and roadside stands selling fruits and honey. 

La Parguera

La Parguera is a fishing town along the coast of Lajas. It’s a hub for marine activities like boating, snorkeling and scuba diving. Floating houses line the waterways while the town centers is home to several tour operators, a night market with craft and souvenir vendors, late night bars and seafood restaurants. 

La Parguera Nature Reserve 

A marine reserve comprised of over 30 cayos, mangroves, sand bars, coral reefs and a bioluminescent bay. The only way to explore the reserve is by boat. Hire a captain for a full or half day with Joy Tours PR or Fondo de Cristal Tours & Boat Rental to explore the cayos. Weekdays are often quiet while weekends become a party on water. 

Cayo Caracoles.  A popular cayo with a shallow sand bar and clear turquoise water protected by the reefs and mangroves. Underwater trails lead through the mangroves and into the reef teeming with massive schools of tiny fish, strange marine life and sea urchins. The cayo is a hub for activity with dozens of locals and party boats anchored here all weekend long. We spent the afternoon lounging in a raft, snorkeling in the mangroves, tanning in the sun and drinking Caribbean rum punch. 

Cayo Robo la Gata.  The second most popular cayo in the reserve. It offers a very similar experience to Cayo Caracoles with mangrove islands, shallow sand bars and a dozens of party boats. 

Cayo Enrique.  A lesser visited cayo popular with families for its calmer atmosphere and shallow waters. Channels lead through the shaded and sandy mangroves making them a fun place to snorkel and wade in the shallow waters. 

Good to Know:

• Bring all food and drink with you for the day. 

• Wear water shoes to avoid sea urchins and broken coral. 

• Some cayos were closed due to damage from Hurricane Fiona. 

• Many boats often dock here on the weekends while the weekdays are quiet. 

La Parguera Bio Bay 

One of three bioluminescent bays in Puerto Rico, and the only one that people are allowed to swim in. Arriving on a tour boat at night, we jumped into the water causing a bright blue cloud of bioluminescence to form around us. As we swam in the warm salty water, it glowed bright blue with every movement, sparkling on our skin. It was a surreal experience that felt like swimming in a pool of glitter. 

We booked with Paradise Scuba. Our tour included unlimited medallas and 2 fried vegetarian empanadas. We stoped at Cayo Caracoles to swim at sunset before making our way to the bio bay. We spent about half an hour in the bio bay before returning. Out of all 3 bio bays in Puerto Rico, this one was our favorite experience! 

Pro Tips. The best time to visit this bio bay is on a dark and moonless night after a sunny day without any rain. Wear snorkels and swim down a few feet to block out any ambient light. Bring a hoodie for the boat ride back. After swimming it gets cold.

Places to Eat & Drink 

There are many restaurants and bars along the main road in the city center of La Parguera. Most serve seafood, Puerto Rican dishes and rum based cocktails. 

Puerto Parguera Restaurant.  A seafood restaurant with dishes like octopus salad, whole fried red snapper and seafood paella. We splurged and ordered a grilled Caribbean lobster with a side of maduros (fried sweet plantains).

Isla Cueva.  A restaurant and bar with over a dozen burger options including beef, chicken, pork, fish and vegan. We ordered the fried mahi mahi burger, piña colada and sangria. It’s a great spot to come before or after visiting the bioluminescent bay tour. 

Papo’s Pinchos.  A small kiosk serving Puerto Rican pinchos (grilled kabobs) with meats like chicken, pork, shrimp, shark and mahi mahi. 

Frozen G Spot.  A takeaway bar serving a variety of frozen cocktails including fruit flavored mojitos and margaritas. 

Yauco 

Yauco stretches from the Caribbean Sea to the lush and rugged landscapes of the island’s interior. The region is famed for its colorful hillside pueblo and coffee production. 

Yauco Pueblo 

A pueblo at the heart of Yauco that blends historic architecture and urban artworks. Vivid murals and colorful geometric patterns transform its walls, staircases and neighborhoods into an open air gallery. The town’s historic character is reflected in its mix of Creole, Spanish colonial, neoclassical, Baroque and Art Deco architecture. Adding to its charm, cafes serve locally grown and roasted coffee. 

Pro Tip.  Visit from Thursday to Saturday. Most businesses are closed during the first half of the week. 

Yaucromatic.  A hillside neighborhood converted into a canvass of colorfully painted houses, staircases and walls. The best views of the art installation is from the intersection of Calle E Sanches Lopez and Calle de la Cruz. Walk up Calle E Sanches Lopez to the top of the hill for photogenic views of the entire pueblo. 

La Escalinata de Yauco.  A painted staircase featuring Yauco’s flag and a statue of an indigenous Taino warrior. There’s a small park near the base of the stairs with a colorfully crochet wrapped tree and murals of Puerto Rican birds 

Mural de la Niña con el Pelo de Trinitaria.  A mural of a young child whose hair is formed by a vibrant bush of blossoming purple flowers.

Miradas del Barrio.  A series of murals at the top of the hill overlooking Yauco featuring close up paintings of people’s staring faces and eyes. 

Calle 25 de Julio.  A central road with many colorful historic homes spanning different architectural styles. Some of the most notable buildings to see include: Franceschi Antongiorgi House, Filardi House and The Cesari Mansion. 

Guánica 

Referred to as the “Paraíso del Eterno Verano,” or the Paradise of Eternal Summer, Guánica is a sunny region with white sand beaches, dry forests and coastal look out points.  

Playa Santa.  A popular white sand beach with turquoise waters, kayak rentals and beach restaurants. Stop for drinks at Mojito Beach Bar & El Anclan Flontante for all kinds of fried empanadas like fish, lobster, conch, octopus and shrimp. Arrive early to find roadside parking and shaded space under the beach trees. 

Guánica State Forest.  A vast. Bio-reserve and dry forest home to many species of cacti, thorny evergreens and coastal mangroves. The park is divided by the Guánica Bay with several hiking trails that lead to beaches, rock formations and ruins.

• Fuerte Capon.  The ruins of a small fort overlooking the Guánica Bay and forest. Start at the visitor center and hike follow the 6 mile trail to hike here or park at Playa Jaboncillo beach and follow the shorter 30 minute trail to Fuerte Capon.

• PR-333.  A scenic coastal road with views of the dry forest and Caribbean Sea. There are many beaches, scenic pull offs and hiking trails along the way.

• Good to Know.  The visitor center closes at 4pm. Park rangers prevent people from beginning hikes after 2pm. 

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Chillo Frito Entero.  A fried red snapper served whole with crispy skin, tender meat and squeezed with lime. It’s usually accompanied by fried plantains like tostones, mofongo or amarillos. 

Mofongo.  Fried plantain mashed with garlic and butter. It’s often served plain or stuffed with an option of seafood. If prepared with bread fruit and yucca, it’s known as trifongo. 

Empanadillas.  Puerto Rican style fried empanadas stuffed with a range of fillings like octopus, conch, cod, shrimp, crap and pizza. 

Pinchos.  Grilled meats served on a stick often served at beaches or roadside kiosks. Our favorites are shark and shrimp. 

Mojo Isleño.  A savory sauce made from tomato, onion, bell pepper, garlic, olives and bay leaves. It’s often served on fried red snapper, lobster or mixed with octopus and conch.

Mallorca.  A Puerto Rican pasty often shaped like a bun or swirled roll and dusted in powered sugar. Our favorite preparations are pressed with guava with cheese or egg and cheese. 

Coco Frio.  A cold and freshly opened coconut. Drink the coconut water inside then the sweet meat inside. Alternatively, enjoy it with coconut rum to create a tropical cocktail 

Rum.  Puerto Rico is unarguably the rum capital of the Caribbean with several distilleries and local brands served in bars across the island. Order it on the rocks, in a Pina Colada or other tropical cocktail. 

Medalla.  The island’s most popular local beer, recognizable by it’s small golden can. It has a light slightly nutty flavor and is served everywhere. Buy a 6 pack for the beach!

Getting Around

Rent A Car.  Renting a car is necessary to get around anywhere on the southwest side of Puerto Rico. Rent from a reputable rental agency from any of the island’s three airports in San Juan, Aguadilla or Ponce. We’ve had luck renting from local agencies including: Charlie Car Rental, Cabrera Car & Truck Rental and Flagship. 

Where to Stay 

Orange B Living (OB3).  A tropical style motel in Cabo Rojo with a series of vacation rentals and apartments. It’s walking distance to nearby restaurants and driving distance to Cabo Rojo’s beaches. Book on Airbnb. 

Location Specifics

Respect the Culture.  Puerto Ricans are very proud of their island, culture and heritage. Please show respect when discussing local issues and topics. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and learn about the culture and island.  

US Territory.  Puerto Rico is a US Territory meaning US Citizens can visit the island without a passport. 

Language.  Spanish is the primary language spoken in Puerto Rico. English is widely spoken as a second language. Knowing basic Spanish words and phrases is helpful and beneficial when visiting. 

Currency.  Puerto Rico uses the US Dollar. 

Metric vs Imperial.  Puerto Rico uses a combination of the Metric and Imperial systems. Speed limits are in marked in mph while distances are marked in kilometers. Gasoline is sold by the liter instead of by the gallon. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit and debit card is widely accepted across the island. Cash is preferred by most vendors at markets, kiosks and some businesses. 

Power Outages.  The electrical grid is fragile due to devastation from past natural disasters. While power outages rarely affect tourists, they do happen. It’s a difficult part of life for many Puerto Ricans. 

Tap Water.  Tap water is generally safe for consumption around the island. 

Tropical Weather.  Puerto Rico experiences tropical weather. Carry an umbrella incase of afternoon and evening rain storms. Tropical storms and hurricanes are possible from June through November with September through October being the most active. 

Swimming.  Mind the warning signs and red flags advising about dangerous ocean currents. Pay attention to where others are and are not swimming. 

Sun Protection.  The harsh UV is dangerous in Puerto Rico. Wear sun block when outside, even on cloudy days. 

Insect Repellent.  Mosquitos are prevalent across the island with mosquito borne illnesses on the rise. Wear insect repellant to minimize bites.  

Clothing.  Shorts and tank tops are generally acceptable to wear, keep the swimwear for the beach and plan to change into pants while dining out or visiting local spots. 

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

From historic cities and mountain landscapes to rainforest trails and island escapes, continue your journey beyond Puerto Rico's southwestern coast through these travel guides:

San Juan Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Beaches, Food & Local Culture.  Discover Puerto Rico's vibrant capital through historic neighborhoods, Caribbean beaches, local cuisine, nightlife and the rhythms of everyday island life.

Old San Juan Travel Guide: Historic Streets, Food & Colonial Charm.  Wander colorful cobblestone streets lined with colonial architecture, historic forts, local restaurants and centuries of Puerto Rican history.

Eastern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: El Yunque, Bioluminescent Bays & Beaches.  Explore Puerto Rico's lush eastern coast through rainforest trails, bioluminescent bays, secluded beaches and outdoor adventures.

Culebra & Vieques Travel Guide: Beaches & Island Adventures.  Escape to Puerto Rico's offshore islands for pristine beaches, snorkeling, wildlife refuges and some of the Caribbean's clearest waters.

Western Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Rincón, Beaches & Surfing.  Discover Puerto Rico's surf capital through laid-back beach towns, coastal scenery, marine life and world-class waves.

Central Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Mountains, Hiking & Taino Sites.  Journey through Puerto Rico's mountainous interior to discover cloud forests, hiking trails, coffee farms and Indigenous heritage.

Ponce Puerto Rico Travel Guide: History, Architecture & Local Culture.  Explore Puerto Rico's second city through grand architecture, local museums, historic plazas and a distinctly southern cultural identity.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around the southwestern region of Puerto Rico including: 

Hacienda Iluminada Coffee Farm.  A coffee hacienda home to 787 Coffee. They frequently offer tours and tastings. Book onlineor call ahead for reservations. 

Parque Nacional Balneario Boquerón.  A lengthy golden sand beach with a large palm grove, protected swimming area and sunset views. 

Finca El Girasol.  A sunflower farm with near year round rows of sunflowers. The finca offers tours and fresh cut sunflowers. 

El Rodadero Peak.  A mountain peak reachable after hiking a steep and slippery trail. It offers stunning views of the island’s lush and rugged landscape. 

The Wall.  A vast drop off along the continental shelf spanning several miles with over 30 different dive sites. Paradise Scuba & Snorkelin La Parguera offers snorkeling and scuba diving tours. 

Ponce Puerto Rico Travel Guide: History, Architecture & Local Culture

Ponce, The Pearl of the South

Ponce, known as “The Pearl of the South,” is famed for its historic architecture, cultural landmarks, Taíno archaeological sites and annual carnival traditions. 

Architectural Styles 

Ponce is a historic city with multitudes of architectural styles and colorful buildings. We spent an afternoon wandering the streets to see the mix of Creole, Colonial, Neoclassical, Spanish Revival, Miami Art Deco, Arabesque and 90s Modernist style buildings. 

An Underdog 

The city is a bit of an underdog; recovering from hurricanes, earthquakes and the effects of the pandemic. Though quieter and less traveled to, it has a charming local ambiance that can’t be overlooked. Like many Ponceños, we’re rooting for this beautiful city!

Visit the Sights & Museums

Plaza de las Delicias.  The lush town square and historical center of Ponce with monuments, statues, landmark buildings and adjacent restaurants.  

Fuente de los Leones.  A large two tiered fountain with statues lions, a symbol of strength and of Ponce.

Parque de Bombas.  Ponce’s iconic red and black striped former fire station and now museum. 

Museo de la Historia de Ponce.  Ponce’s historical museum with galleries explaining the significance of the city, its history, politics, architecture and cultural impacts on Puerto Rico as a whole. A local historian, Ronald, gave us a tour, recommended places to eat in Ponce and nearby places to visit. 

Ponce Cathedral.  A large light blue and white neoclassical cathedral that divides the plaza.

La Guancha.  A waterfront boardwalk and beach with restaurants, kiosks, a marina and an observation tower. Hurricane Fiona caused structural damage to the boardwalk and its since been condemned. Many restaurants have since opened food trucks along a road in the parking area. 

Museo Castillo Serrallés.  A large mansion overlooking the city that once belonged to a sugar cane & rum baron. It’s now a museum and event venue with lush gardens and city views. Come to tour its grounds and interiors while sipping on a Don Q piña colada from its cafe.

Centro Ceremonial Indígena de Tibes.  A free archeological museum dedicated to the Tiano people with exhibits displaying artifacts including pottery, stone tools, shell jewelry and human remains. A short walk behind the museum is an open air exhibit with uncovered petroglyphs, stone platforms, ball courts and a plaza. 

Carnaval Ponceño (Festival of Masks)  

Ponce’s week long carnival festival included nightly events, parades, performances and the famous Vejigantes leading up to carnival Tuesday. 

Vejigantes

Carnaval Ponceño, also known as The Festival of Masks, is famous for the Puerto Rican Vejigantes, elaborately painted paper mache masks decorated with pointed horns, jagged teeth and worn with colorful jumpsuits. The Vejigantes are the symbol of the carnival and traditionally act as a reminder of evil spirits. Nowadays, they’re an expression of Puerto Rican culture. 

The Festival 

Plaza de las Delicias is turned into a fair with food, drink and craft vendors, amusement park rides & a main stage hosting musical performances and announcing the events on the carnival. Unlike what’s typically expected from carnival, Ponce’s is very family friendly.

Food vendors fry all types Puerto Rican dishes like mero (grouper), mofongo bites (mashed plantain), bacalaitos (cod fritters) and cheese. Full bars serve medalla, the local beer, and a list of cocktails like piña coladas, cuba libres and rum punch. Craft vendors sell handmade items like Vejigante pins, masks, horns and painted jackets. We bought and wore a pair of horns, similar to the full face masks worn by the Vejigantes.

The Main Parade 

The main parade is the largest event of the carnival celebrations with Vejigantes, marching bands, floats, the queens of the carnival, classic cars & loud speaker trucks. The parade travels west down Calle Reina towards Plaza de las Delicias and ending in front of the main stage. The parade happens on Sunday afternoon before carnival Tuesday. It started around 2:30pm and lasted into the evening with festivities lasting even longer. Most people arrive by late morning and set up chairs along the shaded side of Calle Reina for the best views. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Campioni Pizza Birra & Tapas.  A popular restaurant for Puerto Rican style pizza (thin crust pizza cooked in a wood fired oven). Order the fruto del mar pizza topped with shrimp, calamari and octopus to and a sangria.

Lola Eclectic Cuisine.  An elevated restaurant serving international cuisine. Try the tuna tartare wonton tacos, grilled salmon on a taro cake, sea bass over lentils and ice-cream on a fried plantain. 

Mariscos Patio Beach.  A roadside seafood kiosk overlooking the Caribbean with fresh and fried seafood dishes. Try the octopus salad, shrimp salad and tostones. 

Tazza D' Oro Caffé.  A breakfast and brunch spot across from Plaza de las Delicias. Try the egg quesadilla or eggs Benedict on brioche. They serve Gusto’s coffee, a Puerto Rican coffee roaster. 

Con Leche.  A breakfast and brunch cafe. Try the Mallorca egg sandwich or breakfast wrap made with eggs and salsa rojo.

Chango Bar.  A dive bar named after the little black birds seen across Puerto Rico. Come here for a Medalla or glass of Don Q served neat. 

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Chillo Frito Entero.  A fried red snapper served whole with crispy skin, tender meat and squeezed with lime. It’s usually accompanied by fried plantains like tostones, mofongo or amarillos. 

Mofongo.  Fried plantain mashed with garlic and butter. It’s often served plain or stuffed with an option of seafood. If prepared with bread fruit and yucca, it’s known as trifongo. 

Empanadillas.  Puerto Rican style fried empanadas stuffed with a range of fillings like octopus, conch, cod, shrimp, crap and pizza. 

Pinchos.  Grilled meats served on a stick often served at beaches or roadside kiosks. Our favorites are shark and shrimp. 

Mojo Isleño.  A savory sauce made from tomato, onion, bell pepper, garlic, olives and bay leaves. It’s often served on fried red snapper, lobster or mixed with octopus and conch.

Mallorca.  A Puerto Rican pasty often shaped like a bun or swirled roll and dusted in powered sugar. Our favorite preparations are pressed with guava with cheese or egg and cheese. 

Coco Frio.  A cold and freshly opened coconut. Drink the coconut water inside then the sweet meat inside. Alternatively, enjoy it with coconut rum to create a tropical cocktail 

Rum.  Puerto Rico is unarguably the rum capital of the Caribbean with several distilleries and local brands served in bars across the island. Order it on the rocks, in a Pina Colada or other tropical cocktail. 

Medalla.  The island’s most popular local beer, recognizable by it’s small golden can. It has a light slightly nutty flavor and is served everywhere. Buy a 6 pack for the beach!

Where to Stay

Casa Luna.  An inexpensive hotel in a neon green creole style building located 2 streets away from Plaza de las Delicias inPonce’s city center. It has multiple private rooms with bathrooms, a public patio and outdoor kitchen. Book on Airbnb.

Location Specifics

Respect the Culture.  Puerto Ricans are very proud of their island, culture and heritage. Please show respect when discussing local issues and topics. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and learn about the culture and island.  

US Territory.  Puerto Rico is a US Territory meaning US Citizens can visit the island without a passport. 

Language.  Spanish is the primary language spoken in Puerto Rico. English is widely spoken as a second language. Knowing basic Spanish words and phrases is helpful and beneficial when visiting. 

Currency.  Puerto Rico uses the US Dollar. 

Metric vs Imperial.  Puerto Rico uses a combination of the Metric and Imperial systems. Speed limits are in marked in mph while distances are marked in kilometers. Gasoline is sold by the liter instead of by the gallon. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit and debit card is widely accepted across the island. Cash is preferred by most vendors at markets, kiosks and some businesses. 

Power Outages.  The electrical grid is fragile due to devastation from past natural disasters. While power outages rarely affect tourists, they do happen. It’s a difficult part of life for many Puerto Ricans. 

Tap Water.  Tap water is generally safe for consumption around the island. 

Tropical Weather.  Puerto Rico experiences tropical weather. Carry an umbrella incase of afternoon and evening rain storms. Tropical storms and hurricanes are possible from June through November with September through October being the most active. 

Swimming.  Mind the warning signs and red flags advising about dangerous ocean currents. Pay attention to where others are and are not swimming. 

Sun Protection.  The harsh UV is dangerous in Puerto Rico. Wear sun block when outside, even on cloudy days. 

Insect Repellent.  Mosquitos are prevalent across the island with mosquito borne illnesses on the rise. Wear insect repellant to minimize bites.  

Clothing.  Shorts and tank tops are generally acceptable to wear, keep the swimwear for the beach and plan to change into pants while dining out or visiting local spots. 

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

From rainforest adventures and surf towns to offshore islands and the colorful streets of Old San Juan, explore more of Puerto Rico beyond Ponce through these travel guides:

San Juan Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Beaches, Food & Local Culture.  Discover Puerto Rico's vibrant capital through historic neighborhoods, Caribbean beaches, local cuisine, nightlife and the rhythms of everyday island life.

Old San Juan Travel Guide: Historic Streets, Food & Colonial Charm.  Wander colorful cobblestone streets lined with colonial architecture, historic forts, local restaurants and centuries of Puerto Rican history.

Eastern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: El Yunque, Bioluminescent Bays & Beaches.  Explore Puerto Rico's lush eastern coast through rainforest trails, bioluminescent bays, secluded beaches and outdoor adventures.

Culebra & Vieques Travel Guide: Beaches & Island Adventures.  Escape to Puerto Rico's offshore islands for pristine beaches, snorkeling, wildlife refuges and some of the Caribbean's clearest waters.

Western Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Rincón, Beaches & Surfing.  Discover Puerto Rico's surf capital through laid-back beach towns, coastal scenery, marine life and world-class waves.

Southwestern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Cabo Rojo, La Parguera & Beyond.  Experience salt flats, mangrove channels, bioluminescent waters, coastal cliffs and some of Puerto Rico's most unique landscapes.

Central Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Mountains, Hiking & Taino Sites.  Journey through Puerto Rico's mountainous interior to discover cloud forests, hiking trails, coffee farms and Indigenous heritage.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around the southern side of Puerto Rico including: 

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set on visiting Isla Caja De Muertos, a secluded nature reserve off the coast of Ponce home to a dry forest, many species of birds, coral reefs for snorkeling and diving, sandy beaches, turquoise water, hiking trails and mangroves. It can only be reached by boat however most ferries and tour operators have stopped visiting the island since hurricane Fiona and a series of earthquakes. 

Eastern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: El Yunque, Bioluminescent Bays & Beaches

La Isla del Encanto  

Puerto Rico is known as La Isla del Encanto, which translates to The Island of Enchantment. Eastern Puerto Rico is home to golden sand beaches, bioluminescent bays, verdant rainforests and waterfalls.

El Yunque National Forest 

El Yunque is home the island’s only rainforest. The landscape is full of lush tropical vegetation, waterfalls with natural pools, hiking trails, lookout towers, tree snails and frogs. Here are a list of sights and trails in consecutive order past El Portal Visitor Center.  

La Coca Waterfall.  An 85ft tall waterfall streaming down the face of a large rock. It’s visible from the roadside waterfall shortly after entering El Yunque. 

Yokahú Tower.  An cylindrical observation tower perched on a clearing overlooking the rainforest. It’s located less than 1km past La Coca Waterfall.

Juan Diego Falls.  A series of small waterfalls with natural swimming pools below. The water is cold and refreshing! The falls are reachable via a short and often muddy trail from the roadside. 

Sierra Palm Picnic Area.  The only restaurant in El Yunque with Puerto Rican dishes and drinks. It’s a great lunch option and picnic spot while in the forest. 

Baño de Oro.  A historic swimming pool fed by rainwater and streams. It’s no longer swimmable, however pathways lead through the gardens surrounding it.

Mt Britton Trail.  A thinly paved trail leading through the rainforest to Torre Mt Britton. It takes about 45 minutes from the trailhead to reach the peak.

Torre Mt Britton.  An observation tower at El Yunque’s second highest peak with cool breezes, rolling clouds and sweeping views of the Caribbean and Atlantic coasts. 

Mt Britton Spur Trail.  A trail connecting the Mt Britton Trail to El Yunque Trail just before the trail to Torre Mt Britton. 

El Yunque Trail.  The rainforest’s longest trail leading to El Yunque’s highest peak. It can be picked up from the Mt Britton Spur Trail. It takes an additional 45 minutes to reach the peak. 

El Yunque Peak.  Often within the clouds, the peak is surrounded by a forest of foliage with stunted growth due to the heavy rain, wind and erosion. There is also an abandoned medical building and series of antenna. 

Tips for Visiting El Yunque:

• Bring water and snacks.

• Wear hiking shoes with good treads, rocks are slippery (speaking from personal experience).

• The temperature gets colder the higher in altitude you hike.

• Expect it to rain, bring a raincoat or umbrella and change of clothes.

• Rent a car. There are no Ubers or taxis allowed into the park. The drive is 1 hour from San Juan.

• Take a photo of the map sign outside the visitor center before hiking.

• Only park in designated parking zones. Rangers will ticket you.

• Arrive early, parking spots fill up quickly.

• Many trails not listed above are still under repair after damage from Hurricane Maria. 

• Reservations are no longer needed to enter the rainforest. 

Degree 18 Juice Bar.  Come here for a healthy pick-me-up after hiking in El Yunque. Located in the town of Palmer at the base of the mountain, they offer smoothies, vegan burgers and hammocks to relax in.

Rain Forest Zip Line Park. An adventure park at the base of El Yunque with 8 zip lines traversing through the lush rainforest canopy. One zip line spans 2,300 ft and is by far the most exhilarating part of the course. We visited here after a day hiking in El Yunque.

Luquillo

Nearby El Yunque is the town of Luquillo, known for the Luquillo Kiosks. Located along the highway, there are 60 street side stalls and restaurants selling Puerto Rican street food and classic Caribbean dishes.

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Bacalaítos.  Large and flat fritters made with a mixture of batter and cod. 

Whole Fried Red Snapper (Chillo Frito Entero).  Whole fried fish, especially red snapper, is a typical Puerto Rican dish. The fish is fried until crispy from head to tail. The meat is tender and easily pulls away from the bones while the fins and tails break off like “chips.” 

Caribbean Lobster.  Also known as a spiny lobster, it lacks the large claws of a Maine lobster but is filled with much more meat. It’s grilled and covered in a mixture of Sofrito, a sautéed medley of pepers, onion, garlic and spices. 

Mofongo.  Fried green plantains that are mashed in a pilón (a wooden mortar and pestle) with oil, garlic and salt. Many restaurants make Stuffed Mofongo with seafood, vegetables or meat. 

Carrucho.  The meat of the queen conch. It’s often served raw as ceviche or salad either alone or with an arepa.

Salmorejo.  A mixture of tomato and land crab strewed together. It can be gamey depending on the preparation. 

Empanadillas.  Similar to empanadas but slightly flakier with rolled edges. Common fillings are meats, seafood, cheese and pizza. 

Alcapurrias.  A fritter made from green plantain and cassava molded with a leaf and fried. They’re typically filled with annatto oil and a meat or crab. 

Kiosks to Visit

Kiosko #7 de Sonia & Peyin + Kiosco Mi Favorito #49 & #52 + El Castillo del Mar Kiosco #54.  Visit any of these kiosks for Puerto Rican street food like empanadillas, alcapurrias, bacalaítos and seafood salad in an arepa. 

La Parrilla Bar & Grill (Kiosko 2).  For locally caught seafood & Caribbean lobsters 

Terruño Comida Artesanal (Kiosko #20).  For classic dishes like mofongo, carrucho, coconut rice and plantains. 

Relle Na’o (Kiosko 40).  For vegan options and build your own mofongo 

Mojito Lab (Kiosko 42).  For extra large mojitos & cocktails.

Luquillo Beach

After the Kiosks, head to one of the beaches. Luquillo Beach (Playa Balneario) is a swimmable palm lined beach behind the kiosks with more food stalls selling empanadas and pina coladas served in pineapples. Parking costs $5. Playa Azul, is the other main beach in Luquillo for swimming, snorkeling, paddle boarding, kite surfing, and kayaking.

Las Croabas 

Las Croabas is the furthest northeastern part of Puerto Rico. It’s a popular place for marine activities, exploring nature, relaxing on the beaches and kayaking to the bioluminescent bay.

Laguna Grande (Bioluminescent Bay)

Kayaking through the mangrove forests at night to reach the bioluminescent bay is one of our favorite things to do in Puerto Rico! In the lagoon, you can run your hands through the water, let it run down your arms and splash around. Movement causes the dinoflagellates (bioluminescent plankton) in the water to glow a bright blue color. 

Book a Tour. You need to book a tour to visit Laguna Grande. There are a dozen companies offering nightly tours from Parque Las Croabas. Most offer two tour times, one at twilight and one hours after sunset. The biggest difference between the twilight tour and nighttime tour is how much of the mangrove forest you can see while kayaking to the lagoon. Tours cost around $50/person and last 1h 30min. We’ve booked through Island Kayaking Adventure and Kayaking Puerto Rico. 

Tips for Visiting Laguna Grande:

• Visit on a sunny day, the dinoflagellates are more active at night.

• Avoid going when the moon is full, the dinoflagellates are difficult to see. If you do, tour guides will bring tarps to cover the kayaks to block out the light.

• Don’t bring your phone for pictures, they can’t capture the bioluminescence.

Visit the Beaches 

Seven Seas Beach.  This is the main beach in Las Croabas. It’s great for swimming, snorkeling and renting kayaks or stand up paddles. The beach has a sandy shore with a rocky ledge several feet into the water. The beach is divided by a mobile home park. The east side is narrow but long and great for walking. The west side is larger with pavilions available for rent and a nature trail leading to Playa Escondida and Playa Colora.

Playa La Matita.  A semi secluded beach east of Seven Seas Beach. It’s a great destination to kayak to, look for conch shells or hike to La Zanja from.

Playa Escondida.  This long golden sand beach has calm and shallow waters perfect for lounging in. The shore is lined with sea grape trees offering shaded nooks to relax under. The beach is popular with all groups of people, especially the LGBTQ+ community. It’s one of those beautiful and welcoming places you’ll want to stay at all day!

Playa Colora.  A semi secluded beach great for sunbathing and enjoying nature. The waves are large and the undertow is strong making it un-safe for swimming. Though not an official nude beach, people come here to sunbathe naked near the rock formations to the right. 

Getting to Escondida & Colora.  Both beaches are accessible through a nature trail at the west end of Seven Seas Beach. It’s an easy walk that takes about 30 minutes. The trail forks after about 5 minutes, take a right and continue walking. This trails leads directly to Playa Escondida. A short path at the halfway point leads to Playa Colora. 

Pro Tip. Please take your trash with you and don’t pile it up at the trail heads.

La Zanja

La Zanja is a natural tench-like wave pool nestled within a cliffside and protected from ferocious waves by large jagged rocks. The pool is a secluded and unreal place to swim and listen to the ocean. 

Getting to La Zanja.  Walk down Seven Seas Beach, past Playa La Matita until it looks like you can go no further. From here there will be a trail leading into the tree-line. The trail forks at multiple points but all lead to a road. Take the road ending at a stoney beach. At the stoney beach, walk to the left until you see a trail leading up the hill and along the cliffside. This trail will lead you to La Zanja. From start to finish, it takes about 1 hour to reach. 

Safety

• Bring water shoes or wear shoes with good soles. 

• Do not attempt in flip flops or sandals. 

• Be very careful on the rocks and of waves 

• Be mindful of the current within La Zanja 

Places to Eat & Drink in Las Croabas

Las Vistas Cafe.  A hidden gem and easily the best brunch spot in the area. The restaurant is located on the roof of a house with surrounding views of Las Croabas. Everything is handmade and takes a little longer but is well worth the wait. Try the fresh fruit salad and juices, strong coffee and brunch dishes like the French toast with bananas and coconut or eggs Florentine on a arepa.  

El Pescador.  Located in Parque Las Croabas, this is one of our favorite places to dine at for seafood and Puerto Rican dishes. Come here for a pan fried red snapper, the stuffed mofongo, creole crab salad, jumbo shrimp and anything with conch. 

La Estacion.  A former gas station turned into an open air jungle themed restaurant offering grilled and smoked meats and seafood specials. 

Maunabo

A remote town on the far southeast corner of Puerto Rico with lengthy natural beaches along the Caribbean Sea. 

Playa Los Bohios.  A pristine yellow and black sand beach lined with palm trees and views of the mountains. The water can be dangerous for swimming due to currents. 

Faro de Punta Tuna.  A historic Spanish lighthouse overlooking Playa Los Bohios and Punta Tuna Beach.

Punta Tuna Beach.   A secluded palm lined yellow sand beach. The beach is not safe for swimming but makes for a beautiful setting for a relaxing afternoon. 

Ecuarican Bar Restaurant.  A restaurant with Ecuadorian and Puerto Rican fusion cuisine. It’s perched high on a cliff with an outdoor deck overlooking the coast. Come here for the mixed seafood ceviche and empanadas.

Location Specifics

Respect the Culture.  Puerto Ricans are very proud of their island, culture and heritage. Please show respect when discussing local issues and topics. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and learn about the culture and island.  

US Territory.  Puerto Rico is a US Territory meaning US Citizens can visit the island without a passport. 

Language.  Spanish is the primary language spoken in Puerto Rico. English is widely spoken as a second language. Knowing basic Spanish words and phrases is helpful and beneficial when visiting. 

Currency.  Puerto Rico uses the US Dollar. 

Metric vs Imperial.  Puerto Rico uses a combination of the Metric and Imperial systems. Speed limits are in marked in mph while distances are marked in kilometers. Gasoline is sold by the liter instead of by the gallon. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit and debit card is widely accepted across the island. Cash is preferred by most vendors at markets, kiosks and some businesses. 

Power Outages.  The electrical grid is fragile due to devastation from past natural disasters. While power outages rarely affect tourists, they do happen. It’s a difficult part of life for many Puerto Ricans. 

Tap Water.  Tap water is generally safe for consumption around the island. 

Tropical Weather.  Puerto Rico experiences tropical weather. Carry an umbrella incase of afternoon and evening rain storms. Tropical storms and hurricanes are possible from June through November with September through October being the most active. 

Swimming.  Mind the warning signs and red flags advising about dangerous ocean currents. Pay attention to where others are and are not swimming. 

Sun Protection.  The harsh UV is dangerous in Puerto Rico. Wear sun block when outside, even on cloudy days. 

Insect Repellent.  Mosquitos are prevalent across the island with mosquito borne illnesses on the rise. Wear insect repellant to minimize bites.  

Clothing.  Shorts and tank tops are generally acceptable to wear, keep the swimwear for the beach and plan to change into pants while dining out or visiting local spots. 

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

From colonial cities and offshore islands to mountain villages and surf towns, discover more of Puerto Rico beyond El Yunque and the eastern coast through these travel guides:

San Juan Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Beaches, Food & Local Culture.  Discover Puerto Rico's vibrant capital through historic neighborhoods, Caribbean beaches, local cuisine, nightlife and the rhythms of everyday island life.

Old San Juan Travel Guide: Historic Streets, Food & Colonial Charm.  Wander colorful cobblestone streets lined with colonial architecture, historic forts, local restaurants and centuries of Puerto Rican history.

Culebra & Vieques Travel Guide: Beaches & Island Adventures.  Escape to Puerto Rico's offshore islands for pristine beaches, snorkeling, wildlife refuges and some of the Caribbean's clearest waters.

Western Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Rincón, Beaches & Surfing.  Discover Puerto Rico's surf capital through laid-back beach towns, coastal scenery, marine life and world-class waves.

Southwestern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Cabo Rojo, La Parguera & Beyond.  Experience salt flats, mangrove channels, bioluminescent waters, coastal cliffs and some of Puerto Rico's most unique landscapes.

Central Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Mountains, Hiking & Taino Sites.  Journey through Puerto Rico's mountainous interior to discover cloud forests, hiking trails, coffee farms and Indigenous heritage.

Ponce Puerto Rico Travel Guide: History, Architecture & Local Culture.  Explore Puerto Rico's second city through grand architecture, local museums, historic plazas and a distinctly southern cultural identity.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around the eastern side of Puerto Rico including: 

Day Trip to The Icacos Islands.  The Icacos are a key of many small islands with diverse sea-life, coral reefs, sandy beaches, migrating birds and marines sports like snorkeling, swimming & diving. They’re only accessible by boat. There are water taxi services or a catamaran tours that leave from Parque Las Croabas. From what we’ve heard, the best time to visit is mid-week to avoid the large crowds. 

Las Paylas Waterfall.  Nearby El Yunque and on private property is a natural river rock slide. An older gentleman who owns the property charges $5 admission. There are no official hours so you have to chance it if visiting. We tried but were turned away. 

Central Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Mountains, Hiking & Taino Sites

A Lush & Rugged Landscape

The central mountainous region of Puerto Rico is a lush and rugged landscape with tree covered mountains, ancient cave systems, breathtaking canyons, mesmerizing waterfalls, scenic hiking trails, coffee haciendas and Taino archeological sites. We’ve ventured to the interior of the island on previous trips, getting to explore more of its natural landscapes, biodiversity and learn about its history. 

Natural Landmarks  

The interior of the island is home to many natural landmarks worth visiting. Rent a car and road-trip through the interior to swim below waterfalls, explore caves, traverse canyons and overlook the mountains from scenic lookouts. 

Canyon Blanco.  A canyon with large white rocks and cliffs polished smooth by the river. There is a trail leading along the canyon with Taino petroglyphs, a small beach and views of the surrounding mountainside. 

• Petroglyphs.  There are well defined Taino petroglyphs dating back hundreds of years carved into some boulders throughout the canyon. The most notable are figures of babies swaddled in blankets. They’re unmarked but easily visible if you’re looking. The petroglyphs are primarily located on large boulders downriver from the bridge before entering the canyon. 

• Getting Here. Take PR-140 and park at “Parking For El Sofa” just before a small bridge over the river. Walk down the west bank of the river and wade through it on foot before the rapids to reach the canyon trail. Alternatively, there is paid parking at Private Property a few minutes past the bridge for $10 with access to the canyon and trail. 

• Good to Know. The canyon is one of the most beautiful sights on the island but is difficult to reach. There is no cell service here. Download offline maps before traveling to the canyon. Don’t go on rainy days. Flash floods and rising waters are common. 

Charco Los Morones.  A remote waterfall and river canon along the Río Guaonica in Utuado. A trail leads from the roadside to a rocky path with views of the cascading waterfall, river pools and verdant mountainside. Indigenous Taíno petroglyphs are carved into the tops of several rocks along the riverbank and canyon wall. 

Getting Here.  Park anywhere along the roadside on Highway 123 (Antigua Puerto Rico 10). The steep trail begins just beyond the Zona Protegida sign. Use this Google Map Pin. 

Piedra con Petroglifo.  A large river rock covered in dozens of Taíno petroglyphs including faces, full human figures, swirling patterns and a symbol representative of the sun. 

Getting Here.  Wade into the Río Guaonica at the Cam Bañadero bridge. Walk about 150 feet downstream to the largest rock on the lefthand side. Use this Google Map Pin to locate it. 

Cueva Ventana.  A cave that leads underground through multiple chambers with bat colonies, stalactites and stalagmites before reaching a cliffside opening that overlooks the valley and river below. From here, Taino petroglyphs can be seen as cave birds and bats flutter into and out of the window like opening of the cave. It’s located 15 minutes from the city of Arecibo. Make reservations online ahead of time. 

Cueva La Clarito.  A cave with a large chamber, giant flow stone, stalactites, stalagmites and petroglyphs dating back thousands of years. It’s accessible along the tour to Cueva Ventana. 

Gozalandia Falls.  A waterfall over a smooth rock cliff with a natural swimming pool below it. Upstream are several river pools and another waterfall with a natural swimming pool. Parking costs $10. There is restaurant and bar at the entrance selling fresh coco frio (cold coconuts).

Doña Juana Waterfall.  A 100ft tall waterfall with a swimming pool at its base, It’s a popular roadside stop in the central mountains with a restaurant and bar. 

Lago dos Bocas. A mountain lake created by a dam popular with locals for fishing and kayaking. It’s located 20 minutes from the city of Arecibo. 

Cerro Las Tetas.  A mountain range known for its twin peaks that resemble a pair of breasts. It’s visible from various roadside overlooks and pull offs along Highway 1 in Salinas. 

Cerro de Punta.  The tallest point on the island measuring 4,390 feet above sea level. Park along the road, Ruta Panoramica (PR-143), at the trail head and hike about 20 minutes to reach the summit. On a clear day, there are views across the island. Be cautious of the wasp nests in the bushes at the lookout.

El Yunque National Forest.  A rainforest full of lush tropical vegetation, waterfalls with natural pools, hiking trails, lookout towers, tree snails and frogs. Read more about El Yunque in our Eastern Puerto Rico Guide. 

Adventure Tourism

The rugged interior of the island is a popular place for adventure tourism and contrasts with the golden beaches surrounding the island. Come here to overlook Puerto Rico from its tallest peak, speed down one of the world’s longest zip-lines and hike miles up a river canyon. 

Tanama River Eco-Adventure.  On a guided tour, we hiked up the Tanama River, a river located in a canyon with steep walls, overgrown cliffs, small waterfalls and stalactite covered caves. Hiking through the forest to reach the river. Our guide, pointed out flora invasive to the island, toxic vegetation and medicinal plants. Once reaching the river, we plunged in and began a miles long journey upstream, swimming against the current, wading through the water and crawling into dark caves. On our return, we floated downstream and let the current lazily carry us back the starting point. Along the way, we learned that the Tanama River is the original route the Taino people traveled to navigate between the coast and the mountains. We booked the experience through Viator.

Toro Verde Adventure Park.  An adventure park high in the mountains known for two of the world’s longest zip lines, suspension bridges and smaller zip lines. 

• The Monster. The zip line measures over 1.5 miles long and spans between two lush mountains above a 1,000 feet deep canyon. Unlike typical zip lines, on The Monster, you lay flat in a cocoon flying between the mountains reaching speeds over 90 miles per hour. 

• The Beast.  The park’s other super long zip line. We have yet to ride this one but have it on our list for next time. 

• Toro Bikes.  A zip line with bikes attached to the cable and used to peddle back and forth between towers. 

• Good to Know. The park is located about 2 hours from San Juan. Book tickets online in advance and prepare to wait in-line for over an hour for your chance at riding The Monster or The Beast. Phones and cameras are not permitted. Photos are available for sale.

The Land of The Tainos

The central mountainous region was home to the Taino people, a pre-Columbian culture that populated the Puerto Rico and other Caribbean islands hundreds of years ago. Today, several archeological sites including ceremonial grounds, detailed petroglyphs and museums with artifacts from the Tainos are on display throughout the region. 

Cemí Mountain.  A mountain with 3 distinct peaks that held spiritual and cultural important to the Taino people. Many artifacts have been found shaped in the likeness of the mountain.  

Caguana Ceremonial Indigenous Heritage Center.  A Taino archeological park at the base of the sacred Cemí Mountain with outdoor ball courts and stone monoliths carved with ornate petroglyphs of humanoid figures, condors and a fish. The sight is one of the most important Taino archeological sites in the Caribbean. 

Caguana Ceremonial Indigenous Heritage Museum. A museum with hundreds of Taino artifacts including: tools made from manatee bone and shells, remnants of clay pottery, stone axe heads, stone ceremonial belts and statues representing the Cemí Mountain. 

La Piedra Escrita.  A massive river boulder with Taino petroglyphs including faces, swirling formations and an iconic frog. Many locals come here to swim in the natural pool at the base of the boulder. 

El Cemí Monument Museum.  A museum built in the shape of a giant Cemí with exhibits that promote and celebrate the Taino culture and people. It houses Taino artifacts including wooden vomit spatulas, tools made from bone and shells, clay pottery, stone axe heads and statues representing the Cemí Mountain. There is a grave of a Tiano woman outside of the museum. 

Coffee Haciendas 

The mountainous region provides the perfect climate and conditions for coffee farming. There are dozens of coffee haciendas across the region growing beans for cafes across the island and offering tours of their farms. 

Hacienda San Pedro. A coffee hacienda with a cafe, shop, museum, processing factory and farm stand with local produce, honey and juices. 

Good to Know.  Many of the coffee haciendas are remote and have inconsistent hours making them difficult to visit. Call ahead to confirm hours and availability. 

Ice Cream in Lares

Lares is a small and historic mountain town famed for its ice cream shops serving a large variety of exotic flavors including: sweet corn, sweet potato, carrot, garlic, ginger, anise, cinnamon, almond,  coffee, bizcocho, coquito, piña colada, chichaíto, pineapple, mamey, soursop, guava, banana, avocado, papaya, dragonfruit, passionfruit and tamarind. Visit either Heladería El Grito or Heladería Lares. 

Getting Around

By Car.  The only way to get around the central mountainous region is by car, preferably one with all wheel drive. Many of the roads twist and turn around the mountainsides and steep valleys. 

Location Specifics

Respect the Culture.  Puerto Ricans are very proud of their island, culture and heritage. Please show respect when discussing local issues and topics. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and learn about the culture and island.  

US Territory.  Puerto Rico is a US Territory meaning US Citizens can visit the island without a passport. 

Language.  Spanish is the primary language spoken in Puerto Rico. English is widely spoken as a second language. Knowing basic Spanish words and phrases is helpful and beneficial when visiting. 

Currency.  Puerto Rico uses the US Dollar. 

Metric vs Imperial.  Puerto Rico uses a combination of the Metric and Imperial systems. Speed limits are in marked in mph while distances are marked in kilometers. Gasoline is sold by the liter instead of by the gallon. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit and debit card is widely accepted across the island. Cash is preferred by most vendors at markets, kiosks and some businesses. 

Power Outages.  The electrical grid is fragile due to devastation from past natural disasters. While power outages rarely affect tourists, they do happen. It’s a difficult part of life for many Puerto Ricans. 

Tap Water.  Tap water is generally safe for consumption around the island. 

Tropical Weather.  Puerto Rico experiences tropical weather. Carry an umbrella incase of afternoon and evening rain storms. Tropical storms and hurricanes are possible from June through November with September through October being the most active. 

Swimming.  Mind the warning signs and red flags advising about dangerous ocean currents. Pay attention to where others are and are not swimming. 

Sun Protection.  The harsh UV is dangerous in Puerto Rico. Wear sun block when outside, even on cloudy days. 

Insect Repellent.  Mosquitos are prevalent across the island with mosquito borne illnesses on the rise. Wear insect repellant to minimize bites.  

Clothing.  Shorts and tank tops are generally acceptable to wear, keep the swimwear for the beach and plan to change into pants while dining out or visiting local spots. 

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

From colonial streets and Caribbean beaches to offshore islands and bioluminescent bays, discover more of Puerto Rico beyond the mountains through these travel guides:

San Juan Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Beaches, Food & Local Culture.  Discover Puerto Rico's vibrant capital through historic neighborhoods, Caribbean beaches, local cuisine, nightlife and the rhythms of everyday island life.

Old San Juan Travel Guide: Historic Streets, Food & Colonial Charm.  Wander colorful cobblestone streets lined with colonial architecture, historic forts, local restaurants and centuries of Puerto Rican history.

Eastern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: El Yunque, Bioluminescent Bays & Beaches.  Explore Puerto Rico's lush eastern coast through rainforest trails, bioluminescent bays, secluded beaches and outdoor adventures.

Culebra & Vieques Travel Guide: Beaches & Island Adventures.  Escape to Puerto Rico's offshore islands for pristine beaches, snorkeling, wildlife refuges and some of the Caribbean's clearest waters.

Western Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Rincón, Beaches & Surfing.  Discover Puerto Rico's surf capital through laid-back beach towns, coastal scenery, marine life and world-class waves.

Southwestern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Cabo Rojo, La Parguera & Beyond.  Experience salt flats, mangrove channels, bioluminescent waters, coastal cliffs and some of Puerto Rico's most unique landscapes.

Ponce Puerto Rico Travel Guide: History, Architecture & Local Culture.  Explore Puerto Rico's second city through grand architecture, local museums, historic plazas and a distinctly southern cultural identity.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around the interior and mountainous regions of Puerto Rico including: 

• Explore Arecibo.  Spend a weekend exploring the beaches, sea arches and caves in Arecibo. 

• Rio Camuy Caves.  A vast cave system with an underwater river, large caverns, stalactites, stalagmites, rock formations and colonies of bats. It located about an hour from San Juan between the central mountains and the town of Arecibo. 

• Hike Cerro Mime.  A steep grassy mountain peak with views of the surrounding valleys. 

• Toro Negro State Forest.  A forested area in the central mountainous region with hiking trails, waterfalls, mountain peaks and camp grounds.

• River Caving Tour.  Join a kayaking tour through one of the mountainous rivers and caves. El Batay Adventures across from the Caguana Ceremonial Indigenous Heritage Center offers excursions. 

Western Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Rincón, Beaches & Surfing

Tropical Paradise 

The western coast of Puerto Rico a tropical paradise with surf towns, palm lined beaches and sunset views. It’s best known for the districts of Rincón and Aguadilla. The relaxing atmosphere is best enjoyed on a surf board at sea or under an umbrella on shore with a piña colada in hand. 

Rincón

Rincón is a tropical destination famed for its surfing, laid back vibes and large “expat” population. The district is centered around two main areas, Centro Puntas and Rincón Pueblo. Each has their own atmosphere, beaches and nightlife. 

Centro Puntas.  A sleepy stretch of Rincón dotted with colorful homes, verdant hillsides and beaches that wrap around the island far western point. Surf schools provide lessons while oceanfront restaurants provide offer views of surf breaks. The 

Rincón Pueblo.  The town center is a hub for activity in Rincón while capturing the laidback vibes of the island’s west coast. It’s home to weekly markets, cocktail bars, roadside cafes, island boutiques and Puerto Rican restaurants.

Surf & Snorkeling Beaches 

Rincón is the surf capital of Puerto Rico. It’s the point where the Caribbean Sea and Atlantic Ocean meet providing consistent waves year round. The winter months offer the best surf conditions with larger waves caused by strong Atlantic winds. Surfers of all levels can be seen riding waves from sunrise until sunset. There are multiple surf schools and board rentals near the beaches. 

Don Antonio’s Beach.  A beautiful beach with a coral reef located just off shore. The reef makes it a quiet and peaceful place to sunbathe or relax under the shade of the palm trees. It’s a popular beach for surfers to practice and catch waves. 

Playa Maria.  A very popular surfer’s beach for all levels of experience. Instructors offer lessons and rentals while shops sell surf gear. It’s great location to spot sea turtles and snorkel in the beautiful coral gardens on a calm day. The shallow but long shore offers a range of places to hideout under the palms and enjoy the tropical vibes.

Domes Beach.  Named after the giant white dome, a deactivated nuclear reactor, towering above the palm trees. Its placement offers a stark juxtaposition to the pristine nature surrounding it. The beach itself is popular with experienced surfers and for surf competitions. 

Sandy Beach. A golden sand stretch of shoreline perfect for sunbathing, bodysurfing, swimming and surfing. There are a couple boutique hotels overlooking the shore, nearby restaurants, cafes and bars. Multiple surf schools are based in the area offering lessons and board rentals. RD2Happiness rents boards for $20 for 2 hours.

Dogman Beach.  A very small beach with a reef on either side. It acts as a launching point for surfers to safely paddle out. It’s located just south of Playa Maria. 

Pro Tip. Surf earlier in the morning before the waves become too choppy. 

Steps Beach.  A snorkeling beach with healthy coral formations and many species of fish. We snorkeled over large formations of elkhorn coral and spotted parrot fish. During low tide, there are shallow tide pools where families relax with children. The beach is named for a set of concrete steps washed up onshore. It’s also a great spot to look for sea glass. 

Playa Dona Lala.  A sandy beach with a deep shoreline and calm aquamarine waters. It’s the perfect place to swim and relax under the Caribbean sun. Vendors rent umbrellas, beach chairs and jet skis. There is a small plaza with cafes & restaurants behind the beach parking lot. It’s only about a 10-15 minute walk from Plaza Pública de Rincón.

Rincón Surf School

A surf school near Sandy Beach with board rentals and a range of lessons. We booked a 3 day surf class with 3 hour morning lessons starting at 8am. After some onshore basics, the paddled out to begin surfing!

• Day 1 - Dogman Beach.  The first day focused in the basics of paddling, standing up and balancing while riding the waves. With the push of our instructor, we were able to catch and ride several waves! 

• Day 2 - Playa Maria.  The second day was very similar to the first but at a different beach. With practice, we were able to catch several more waves with less assistance. An onshore photographer even snapped a few photos! While waiting in the lineup, we spotted sea turtles swimming in the reef beneath our boards. It was a magical experience. 

• Day 3 - Playa Don Antonio.  My third and final surf lesson was the most rewarding. We were able to watch for, catch and ride about half of the waves without the help of our instructor. From never having surfed before to riding waves on my own felt so rewarding. 

A surf lesson in Rincón is worth every moment for anyone who loves the ocean! It’s a mix of high energy and relaxation while being surrounded by stunning nature. The only advice to anyone learning to surf is be ready to paddle a lot! It’s all worth it once you ride a wave! Book Lessons Here. 

Rincon Sights 

Punta Higüero Lighthouse. Located at the south end of Domes Beach is a Spanish style lighthouse and lookout point. It’s a nice place to watch surfers, spot for whales or enjoy a meal and drink at the cliffside restaurant, Ola Sunset Cafe.

Tres Palmas Reserve Path.  A nature and biking trail along the Caribbean coast and a gated cattle field north of Steps Beach.

Domes Trail.  A coastal nature trail north of Dome’s beach and around the nuclear reactor. It passes multiple smaller secluded beaches. 

Plaza Pública de Rincón.  This plaza is the heart of Rincón Pueblo. It hosts weekly events like the Rincon Art Walk and Farmer’s Market. 

Events & Markets 

Rincón Art Walk.  On Thursday nights, the plaza comes to life with artists and vendors selling handmade jewelry, sea glass, decorated drift wood, scenic paintings, local photographs, wooden cookware, oils, soaps, etc. At the same time, live musicians and performances entertain crowds in the center of the plaza. All the while, people sipping on ice cold medallas and tropical cocktails spill out of bars onto the surrounding streets. The art walk typically lasts from 5-10pm while the nightlife continues into the early morning. 

Rincón Farmers Market.  On Sunday mornings, the plaza transforms into a farmers market. Vendors set up under white tents selling locally grown produce, tropical flowers, potted herbs, baskets of eggs, empanadas, fresh squeezed orange juice, vegan meals and organic oils. The market is open from 8am until the early afternoon.

Surf Shops & Boutiques 

Centro Puntas features several surf shops, while Rincón Pueblo offers boutique specializing in handmade goods and home decor. A few we love visiting are:

Rincón Surf Market.  Located under Kahuna Burger Bar. Come here for clothes, beverages, jewelry, surf boards and sun block. The owner owns the restaurant above, hotel and surf school.

Stoked : Surf + Espresso.  A surf shop and cafe at Playa Maria. It’s a great place to come before or after surfing for coffee, juice, baked goods or surf equipment.

Mango Beach Surf Shop.  A shop selling souvenir t-shirt’s, hoodies, jeweley sunblock and aloe vera.  

The Uncharted Studio.  A tropical boutique specializing in beachwear, jewelry, artwork and hand made items. 

Places to Eat & Drink

There are many amazing cafes, restaurants and bars across Rincón, here are some of our favorites in Centro Puntas and Rincón Pueblo. 

Kahuna Burger Bar.  A local favorite near Sandy Beach. Come here for the mahi mahi and veggie burgers. Add a grilled pineapple for a tropical twist. Their bar is open late, offering rum punch for $5. 

Jakes Java House.  A road side coffee shop with smoothies and açaí bowls next to Sandy Beach. 

Jack’s Shack.  A roadside restaurant with breakfast tacos, egg sandwiches and iced coffee served from a food truck and trailer. 

Caddy’s Calypso.  A surf bar & restaurant at Playa Maria. Come here for their double rum cocktails, mahi mahi tacos, nachos & coconut shrimp. 

Tamboo.  A restaurant on Sandy Beach with Caribbean views, Puerto Rican seafood and tropical cocktails. Try the mahi ceviche, and watermelon tuna tartare with tostones. Order the hibiscus rum cocktail. 

La Rosa Inglesa.  A hotel restaurant perched on the hills overlooking Rincón. Come here for their brunch menu including flights of tropical mimosas, fresh fruit bowls, latin egg dishes and shrimp hollandaise Benedicts. 

The Beach House.  A restaurant, bar, hotel and surf shop with a line up of white chairs overlooking the forested coast behind Dome’s Beach. Come here to enjoy a drink, sunset, the view or all of the above.

Ola Sunset Cafe.  A cliffside restaurant overlooking Dome’s Beach and the Caribbean Sea. Come here to spot migrating whales and watch the sunset while eating empanadas and sipping on large tropical mojitos. 

La Sirena.  A nautical themed restaurant and tiki bar serving sushi, seafood, dim sum and tropical cocktails served in classic tiki mugs.

Harbor Restaurant.  A popular beachfront seafood restaurant. Order a classic rum cocktail, try the whole fried red snapper and a side of crab tostones. 

La Marketa.  A restaurant and bar in downtown Rincon and the former location of the city’s market. They keep the market alive with tables of craft vendors on Sunday morning. Come to play darts and corn hole while sipping on a medella. We ordered the fish burger with yucca fries and mahi mahi skewers. 

Paletados.  Stop in for ice cold paletas (popsicles) on a hot afternoon. They offer tropical, fruit and dessert flavors with a range of toppings. 

Good to Know. Carry cash. Many businesses are cash or Venmo only.

Aguadilla 

Aguadilla is the entrance to the west side of Puerto Rico. It’s home to the west’s main airport, renowned beaches, pinchos kiosks and daily sunset views.

Crash Boat Beach

Famous across the island for its concrete pier that juts out and branches into the bay. People of all ages line up to jump, dive and cannon ball from it into the calm blue water. On shore, people eagerly await grilled pinchos like skewered shark and buttered shrimp while sipping drinks including ice cold Medalla or piña colada made with Don Q. Vendors rent chairs and umbrellas for $5 a piece and offer tours of the bay on jets skis or inflatable banana boats.

Good to Know.  Recent hurricanes and tropical storms have collapsed parts of the pier. While not what it once was, it’s still a joy to jump from.

Aguadilla Pueblo

In the city center of Aguadilla, people stroll down a concrete promenade while others relax along the golden sand beach. At the same time, fishermen return from sea on small boats with the day’s catch and artists sell items including crocheted beachwear, home made candies and hand painted ceramics. 

Casas de Colores Aguadilla - Pintalto.  A colorful hillside community with dozens of painted houses and apartment rentals. Walk up the stairs and through the local neighborhood! 

Plaza Fuente de la Juventud.  A lively plaza with several restaurant and bar kiosks. It’s a great place to order food and drinks at while visiting Rompeolas Beach or to party with locals late into the weekend evenings. 

El Parterre.  A tree covered plaza with a natural cold spring and series of canals passing through it.  

Rompeolas Beach.  A small but popular local beach with a protected cove and calm swimmable water. 

Playa del Tamarindo.  A tan sand beach lined with small homes and apartments. It’s accessible from the parking lot on the south side. 

Paseo de Aguadilla

Along the promenade are several kiosks and restaurants serving coffee, pastries, fried food, the fisherman’s catch, tropical cocktails, frozen paletas and a range of Puerto Rican cuisine. As night falls and the sun sets, locals in cars with souped up speakers and buses with equipped with train horns and lights roll into town for a vibrant night out. 

Salty Pelican.  A Puerto Rican and Mexican fusion restaurant on the Paseo de Aguadilla serving fresh caught seafood, deep fried frituras and tacos. The restaurant is unmissable, with its giant statue of a hanged shark. 

Sal de Mar.  A seafood restaurant across the street from Mint with a rooftop overlooking the ocean. Their menu specializes in dishes like Caribbean lobster, fried mahi mahi bites, ceviche and crab empanadas.

Aguada 

Aguada is city half way between Aguadilla and Rincon. It’s a peaceful place to stay and the perfect location to branch out from. The coastal route is lined with palm trees, painted sculptures, boutique hotels and restaurants. The town center is built around a tree lined plaza, flanked by a cathedral, Puerto Rican homes and narrow streets. 

Beaches & Restaurants 

Pico de Piedra Beach.  A spacious and quiet beach with several nearby restaurants and bars. It’s a tranquil place to relax for the morning or afternoon. Visit Platano Loco, a beach front restaurant where everything on the menu includes plantain. Try the plantain burger with large tostones for buns. 

El Galeón.  A pirate themed seafood restaurant with pirate ship paintings, a port hole bar and a pirate statue. It’s located across the street from the waterfront. 

Guayabos.  A beachfront restaurant on a small cliff with a patio overlooking Aguada Beach. Order dishes tapas style and try the octopus salad, ceviche, shrimp empanada and fried mahi mahi bites. 

Isabela 

Isabela is a town on the northwest corner of Puerto Rico. It’s home to protected beaches, cliffside restaurants & nature trails. It’s located about 30 minutes north of Aguadilla by car. 

Beaches & Restaurants 

Jobos Beach.  A sandy beach in a protected cove shielded from large Atlantic waves by a rocky  peninsula. Its turquoise waters are the perfect place to swim and surf in the remnants of broken waves. Palm trees line the shore, offering sunbathers a shaded reprieve from the tropical sun. Empanada vendors walk the beach while a series of restaurants and bars offer places to eat and drink. Shops and rental kiosks offer beach necessities, surf boards, chairs and umbrellas. 

Montones Beach. A sandy beach protected by a large rock island. It’s a popular spot to snorkel and lounge onshore, especially for those staying at the beach’s colorful rental cottages.

Pozo De Jacinto.  A cliffside plateau with jagged rock formations and a large seaside cave. Waves crash into the cave, spraying mist into the air during large swells.

Mirador Paseo Tablado.  An elevated boardwalk meandering over steep sand dunes and through a pine forest. Its located between Jobos Beach and Montones Beach. 

Jobos Mojito Beach Bar & Restaurant.  A cliffside restaurant with panoramic views overlooking the Jobos Beach and the Atlantic Ocean. A chalkboard menu above the bar lists over 30 different types of mojitos. We ordered tamarind and passion fruit mojitos along with veggie paella for dinner from a menu including fried seafood, burgers and mofongo. 

La Playa

As the name suggests, La Playa is all about the beach. We stopped here for an afternoon at Balneario Tres Hermanos, a vast sandy and palm lined beach with calm swimmable waters. The beach also doubles as a camp ground for tents and trailers. Sea turtles are known to nest here. La Playa is about 15 minutes south of Rincon by car. 

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Chillo Frito Entero.  A fried red snapper served whole with crispy skin, tender meat and squeezed with lime. It’s usually accompanied by fried plantains like tostones, mofongo or amarillos. 

Mofongo.  Fried plantain mashed with garlic and butter. It’s often served plain or stuffed with an option of seafood. If prepared with bread fruit and yucca, it’s known as trifongo. 

Empanadillas.  Puerto Rican style fried empanadas stuffed with a range of fillings like octopus, conch, cod, shrimp, crap and pizza. 

Pinchos.  Grilled meats served on a stick often served at beaches or roadside kiosks. Our favorites are shark and shrimp. 

Mallorca.  A Puerto Rican pasty often shaped like a bun or swirled roll and dusted in powered sugar. Our favorite preparations are pressed with guava with cheese or egg and cheese. 

Coco Frio.  A cold and freshly opened coconut. Drink the coconut water inside then the sweet meat inside. Alternatively, enjoy it with coconut rum to create a tropical cocktail 

Rum.  Puerto Rico is unarguably the rum capital of the Caribbean with several distilleries and local brands served in bars across the island. Order it on the rocks, in a Pina Colada or other tropical cocktail. 

Medalla.  The island’s most popular local beer, recognizable by it’s small golden can. It has a light slightly nutty flavor and is served everywhere. Buy a 6 pack for the beach!

Getting Around

Fly into Aguadilla.  The airport has several flights per day and two small restaurants, usually open when flights are arriving or departing. Multiple car rental companies have lots nearby the airport.

Rent A Car.  Renting a car is an absolute must to get around anywhere on the west side of Puerto Rico. The entire west side of the island can be driven across in about 2 hours from north to south. We’ve had good experiences renting from Enterprise and Cabrera Car & Truck Rental. 

Location Specifics

Respect the Culture.  Puerto Ricans are very proud of their island, culture and heritage. Please show respect when discussing local issues and topics. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and learn about the culture and island.  

US Territory.  Puerto Rico is a US Territory meaning US Citizens can visit the island without a passport. 

Language.  Spanish is the primary language spoken in Puerto Rico. English is widely spoken as a second language. Knowing basic Spanish words and phrases is helpful and beneficial when visiting. 

Currency.  Puerto Rico uses the US Dollar. 

Metric vs Imperial.  Puerto Rico uses a combination of the Metric and Imperial systems. Speed limits are in marked in mph while distances are marked in kilometers. Gasoline is sold by the liter instead of by the gallon. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit and debit card is widely accepted across the island. Cash is preferred by most vendors at markets, kiosks and some businesses. 

Power Outages.  The electrical grid is fragile due to devastation from past natural disasters. While power outages rarely affect tourists, they do happen. It’s a difficult part of life for many Puerto Ricans. 

Tap Water.  Tap water is generally safe for consumption around the island. 

Tropical Weather.  Puerto Rico experiences tropical weather. Carry an umbrella incase of afternoon and evening rain storms. Tropical storms and hurricanes are possible from June through November with September through October being the most active. 

Swimming.  Mind the warning signs and red flags advising about dangerous ocean currents. Pay attention to where others are and are not swimming. 

Sun Protection.  The harsh UV is dangerous in Puerto Rico. Wear sun block when outside, even on cloudy days. 

Insect Repellent.  Mosquitos are prevalent across the island with mosquito borne illnesses on the rise. Wear insect repellant to minimize bites.  

Clothing.  Shorts and tank tops are generally acceptable to wear, keep the swimwear for the beach and plan to change into pants while dining out or visiting local spots. 

Places to Stay

Having spent two weeks on the western side of Puerto Rico over the years, we’ve found two go-to places to stay.

Puntas Tree House. A vacation rental located in the middle of Cento Puntas across from Sandy Beach. The house has two floors of affordable apartment rentals, all decorated in tropical & beachy aesthetic. Book on Airbnb.

Aguada Oceanfront House.  A vacation rental located along the beach in Aguada. It has a spacious and simple interior with nautical decor and a large window with panoramic views of the sea. We fell asleep to the sounds of the waves. Book on Airbnb.

Casa Colonial.  A vacation rental in Aguadilla with a series of units built into a historic colonial home. Its beautifully tiled floors, fully equipped kitchen and comfy bedrooms make it an ideal space for a beach weekend. It’s centrally located in Aguadilla within walking distance of Rompeolas Beach and the Paseo de Aguadilla. Book on Airbnb.

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

From colonial architecture and rainforest adventures to bioluminescent bays and Caribbean islands, discover more of Puerto Rico beyond the surf coast through these travel guides:

San Juan Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Beaches, Food & Local Culture.  Discover Puerto Rico's vibrant capital through historic neighborhoods, Caribbean beaches, local cuisine, nightlife and the rhythms of everyday island life.

Old San Juan Travel Guide: Historic Streets, Food & Colonial Charm.  Wander colorful cobblestone streets lined with colonial architecture, historic forts, local restaurants and centuries of Puerto Rican history.

Eastern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: El Yunque, Bioluminescent Bays & Beaches.  Explore Puerto Rico's lush eastern coast through rainforest trails, bioluminescent bays, secluded beaches and outdoor adventures.

Culebra & Vieques Travel Guide: Beaches & Island Adventures.  Escape to Puerto Rico's offshore islands for pristine beaches, snorkeling, wildlife refuges and some of the Caribbean's clearest waters.

Southwestern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Cabo Rojo, La Parguera & Beyond.  Experience salt flats, mangrove channels, bioluminescent waters, coastal cliffs and some of Puerto Rico's most unique landscapes.

Central Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Mountains, Hiking & Taino Sites.  Journey through Puerto Rico's mountainous interior to discover cloud forests, hiking trails, coffee farms and Indigenous heritage.

Ponce Puerto Rico Travel Guide: History, Architecture & Local Culture.  Explore Puerto Rico's second city through grand architecture, local museums, historic plazas and a distinctly southern cultural identity.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around the western side of Puerto Rico including: 

More Beach Time.  Visit more beaches along the far southwest side of the island including: Buyé Beach, Parque Nacional Balneario Boquerón and Playa El Combate Beach. 

Isla de Mona.  A remote island halfway between Puerto Rico’s western coast and the Dominican Republic. It’s known at the Galapagos of the Caribbean for its isolation, diverse wildlife, coral reefs, caves, Taino petroglyphs and beach camping. 

Culebra & Vieques Travel Guide: Beaches & Island Adventures

The Puerto Rican Archipelago  

Culebra and Vieques are two islands off Puerto Rico’s eastern coast known for their sleepy vibes, tropical atmosphere, natural landscapes and Caribbean beaches. They’re lesser traveled to and equally as enchanting as other areas of Puerto Rico with unique character of their own.  

Culebra 

Culebra is a tiny island half way between “mainland” Puerto Rico and the US Virgin Islands. Things move a little slower here making it a great place to relax and appreciate life. The island has a small town with great restaurants, is home to multiple nature reserves and a variety of beaches. 

Things to Do

There are many things to do while exploring Culebra, primarily focused on outdoor activities like snorkeling, beach hopping, hiking and watching the sunset. 

Explore Dewey.  Culebra’s only town can be walked from end to end in minutes. Though small, its main road is home to restaurants, cafes, guest houses and the ferry terminal.  

Jump from the Bridge.  Join locals and jump from the Dewey bridge into the canal. Wear water shoes to protect your feet from the mussels and urchins.

Hector the Protector.  Walk along the rock break wall across from the ferry terminal and visit Hector the Protector, a planked wood human figure holding a lantern. 

Watch a Caribbean Sunset.  Many of the western beaches like Tamarindo, Punta Soldado or Carlos Rosario are peaceful places to watch the sunset below the Caribbean.

Visit the Beaches

Culebra has many great beaches all worth visiting for different reasons. There are white sand beaches, rocky beaches, remote beaches and unofficial nude beaches.

Flamenco Beach. Flamenco Beach is beloved for its powdery white sand shore that wraps around a turquoise blue bay. Come here to relax in under the heat of the Caribbean sun or shade of a swaying palm tree. The beach is famed for its graffitied tanks. home to a campground and offering of beach services and amenities. 

Flamenco’s Tanks.  Flamenco Beach is famed for its graffitied tanks. The shoreline surrounding the most iconic tank has been swept away by recent storms. Though still accessible, it’s now a pelican nesting ground. The second tank resides on a small hill nearby. 

Beach Services.  Flamenco Beach has a range of services and amenities making it easy to stay here all day. 

• Fees.  Parking costs $5 per vehicle and $2 per person. 

• Amenities.  Restrooms, showers and lockers are available 24/7. Lockers cost an additional fee to use. Bring your own hand soap for the restrooms. 

• Kiosks.  A series of modern kiosks offer food, beverages, ice cream, beach supplies and souvenirs. Try the traditional Puerto Rican snacks like empanadillas, bacalaitos, alcapurrias and pinchos. Pair them with a boozy tropical cocktail, local beer or fruit juice. 

• Rentals.  Two kiosks offer beach rentals including chairs, umbrellas, snorkel masks, life jackets and floaties.  

• Lifeguards.  Life guards watch over designated swimming areas. 

Flamenco Beach Camping.  Camping at Flamenco Beach is one of the most enjoyable ways to maximize beach time and experience Culebra’s pristine nature. We camped here for a long weekend on our most recent trip to the island. Ten under the stars, fall asleep to the sounds of crashing waves and wake up to the calls of roosters.

• Camping is DIY.  Bring your own gear: tent, sleeping bags, air mattress, hammock, beach chairs, flashlight, etc. 

• Where to Camp.  The official camping area is located after the kiosks and behind the beachfront tree line. It’s an expansive and shaded area with plenty of space to set up undisturbed. 

• Fees & Bookings.  Camping costs $35 per night per tent. Call ahead for a reservation or book at the beachfront ticket office. The office hours are from 8am-5pm. If showing up after hours, return the next day to register and pay. For reservations and information, call (787) 742 0700. 

Culebrita Beach. A crescent shaped beach with a narrow white sand shore and calm aquamarine water. It’s located on the island of Culebrita (Little Culebra) and requires a boat to reach. We sailed here on a catamaran with a group of friends through East Island Excursions. The tour brought us to coral garden off the coast of Culebra to snorkel before mooring off shore from Culebrita Beach. We spent the afternoon diving from the catamaran, dancing to Reggaeton music, swimming between the boat and shore, relaxing on the beach and enjoying an unlimited supply of rum cocktails. 

Playa Resaca.  This beach is as much about the journey as it is the destination. After a rigorous hike, you’ll reach a vast beach that you’ll likely have to yourself the entire day. The only swimmable area is the shallows at the far east end of the beach. Because it’s so remote, it’s the perfect place to get naked ;)

Hiking to Resaca:  

• Follow a paved road up the hill past the airport. There will be a parking lot at the top. Walk through the waist high grass behind the sign to locate the trail. 

• The further you descend, the more rigorous the trail gets. You’ll have to walk over boulders and duck under tree branches. We recommend wearing pants, hiking shoes and bringing a stick to knock away spider webs and thorny plants. 

• The trail ends at a mangrove forest just before the beach. There will be pink and orange ribbons, nautical debris and water bottles strung along the trees guiding you through it. Follow these markers, even if you think you’re on the path, or you will get lost! 

• The final stretch leads through a thicket of beach grape trees ending at a lone palm tree overlooking the beach. From the parking lot, it should take 45min to reach Playa Resaca. Plan to leave the beach at least 1 hour before sunset. 

Playa Zoni.  A white sand beach equally as beautiful as Flamenco. It’s located on the northeast side of the island, easily reachable by car though rarely that busy. Outside of free parking, there are no amenities.

Playa Punta Soldado.  A rocky beach great for finding conch shells. You’ll find a lot of fragments and occasionally a whole shell. Supposedly it’s a good spot to snorkel though we’ve never tried here.

Snorkeling Beaches 

Culebra is beautiful place to snorkel with multiple reefs easily accessible from shore. The beaches along the southwest coast of Culebra are the best on the island for snorkeling.

Reserva Natural Canal Luis Peña.  A canal and  protected nature reserve separating Culebra and Cayo Luis Peña. It’s home to coral reefs, sea grass meadows, an abundance of sea life and views of Caribbean sunsets. 

Playa Tamarindo Grande.  A secluded beach along the Canal Luis Peña, accessible via the Carlos Rosario Nature Trail. Just offshore is a vibrant reef with all types of lively and colorful corals. For the best snorkeling, enter the water near the green beach sign at the center of the beach, swim about 25 feet out, then follow the reef to the left. Water shoes are recommended due to jagged rocks near the shore.

Carlos Rosario Nature Trail.  A nature trail leading from the parking lot of Flamenco Beach to Playa Tamarindo Grande and Playa Carlos Rosario. The hike is relatively easy, leading over a hilltop crest, taking about 20 minutes one way. Along the trail, watch out for skittish lizards, hermit crabs and the occasional gardener snake. 

Good to Know.  Stay on the trail as unexploded munitions from military testing are believed to be in the area. 

Playa Tamarindo.  A beautiful beach with salt and pepper pebbles and a narrow stretch of white sand. This easily accessible spot is popular place for snorkeling. A small and colorful reef home with tropical fish resides just offshore to the far left while a vast meadow seagrass meadow begins about 50 feet out. Sea turtles, eagle rays and reef squids can be seen gliding through these waters.

Playa Melones.  A small and unassuming beach with a rocky shoreline and breathtaking coral reef. Enter the water at the center of the beach then swim out and towards the rocks on the right. Beneath the surface are large formations brimming with colorful corals and tropical fish. Green, purple and yellow corals sway in the currents as fish swim between and lurk within crevices. It’s some of the best snorkeling on Culebra!

Tips for Snorkeling in Culebra:

• Snorkel Gear.  Bring your own snorkel gear or rent it from Blue Water or Culebra Divers, both located next to the ferry terminal. 

• When to Snorkel.  The sea life is most active before 10am and an hour before sunset. 

• Sunblock.  Wear reef safe sunblock to avoid harming the corals.

• Underwater Camera.  Capturing photos underwater is possible with most smart phones and a specialty case. We used the Pictar Waterproof Smartphone Caseavailable on Amazon. 

Places to Eat and Drink 

For a tiny island, Culebra has a range of great restaurants, cafes and bars, mostly centered around Dewey.

Dinghy Dock.  A popular restaurant overlooking the island’s inner bay, frequented by boaters on inflatable dinghies. Come here for tropical cocktails and fresh caught seafood dishes like grilled Mahi Mahi and Chillo Frito Entero (whole fried red snapper). Feed the scraps to the giant tarpon waiting dockside.  

Mamacita’s.  A lively restaurant and bar located along the narrow canal in the middle of town. It’s a favorite spot of ours to come for boozy cocktails and sharable appetizers like coconut shrimp, mahi mahi bites and tostones. Like Dinghy Dock, come here to feed the tarpon.

La Cocina del Navigante.  An elevated restaurant overlooking the island’s inner bay. Their kitchen specializes in seafood dishes like Caribbean lobster, filets of red snapper, shrimp stuffed mofongo and paella! 

El Batay.  A roadside bar and local hangout located halfway between town and the airport. Come here to play a game of pool, sip on drinks or order one to takeaway.  

Pan Cafe.  A very popular bakery serving pastries, breakfast sandwiches and coffee. Try the Mallorca, a bready Puerto Rican pastry shaped into a swirl and sprinkled with powdered sugar. 

Hotel Kokomo.  The perfect go to for an inexpensive meal or quick lunch, especially while waiting for the ferry. We’ve ordered fish sandwiches and empanadas. 

Black Flamingo Coffee.  Our favorite breakfast spot on the island. Come here for their coffee, homemade sourdough toast and breakfast tacos.

Culebra Coffee.  A coffee shop selling mango and acai bowls, egg dishes and baked goods.

Tips for Dining Out in Culebra:

• Most places accept credit cards however it’s good to have cash. There’s an ATM in town near the ferry terminal.

• Make reservations at places you want to eat. Service ends early and places can book up.

• Be patient, people and businesses move slower here.

Grocery Stores 

There are two grocery stores on the island. Colmado Carniceria Milka, located in town and Colmado Costa del Sol, located next to the airport. Both offer all the basics and necessities of any grocery store. They’re also good spots to buy snacks and drinks for the beach.

Getting to Culebra 

By Ferry.  Take the Puerto Rico Ferry from Ceiba to Culebra. It’s an efficient and cost effective way of reaching the island. The ferry operates on a strict schedule. You need to buy tickets at least 1 week in advance, especially if traveling on a weekend. It can take anywhere from 1-2 hours depending on the type of boat and sea conditions. 

Getting to Ceiba.  Preschedule an Uber or Lyft. Rides typically cost around $100 one way. The drive from San Juan to Ceiba takes on average 1 hour 30 minutes depending on traffic and time of day. 

By Plane.  Book flights on a puddle jumper through Cape Air. Flights take less than 30 minutes from San Juan. Roundtrip tickets can cost between $200 and $300 per person. Due to cost, we typically opt for the ferry.

Getting Around Culebra

Golf Cart Rentals.  A golf cart is the most efficient way to navigating Culebra on your own. UTV Rental PRoffers a range of rugged club cars for $70-$85 per day   

Jeep Rentals.  Having a Jeep is helpful for getting around on your own schedule but can be expensive. We’ve rented from Jerry’s Jeep Rental and Carlos Jeep Rentalon past trips for around $150 per day. It’s often more adoptable to rent a golf cart or call a taxi when needed.

Culebra Taxis.  Local drivers provide taxi services around Culebra. The typical ride costs $20 for up to 4 people. Expect to pay in cash or by payment link. Here are some reputable taxi drivers. 

• Angel (787) 455 1892

• Damaris (787) 455 1893

• Abner (787) 237 5313

On Foot.  Though Culebra is a small island, getting around on foot outside of the town is difficult but not impossible. Many people are friendly enough to stop and give you a ride. Carry a flashlight when walking at night. 

Where to Stay 

Having visited Culebra three time, we’ve camped, stayed in Dewey and further away along the bay. 

Mamacita’s Guest House. A hub for activity on Culebra and a lively place to stay in the center of town. The rooms are simple but well equipped for a relaxing stay. Make sure to visit the restaurant and bar for dinner and drinks. Book on Airbnb. 

Oceanfront Villa.  A vacation rental with panoramic views the island’s inner bay. The villa has private suites and shared balcony. It’s located about 20 minutes on foot from Dewey or 5 minutes by car. Book on Airbnb. 

Vieques

Vieques is an island 6 miles off the coast of Puerto Rico. It’s home to a bioluminescent bay, free roaming horses, white and black sand beaches, turquoise swimmable water and marine reserves.  

Faro Puerto Mulas.  A small abandoned lighthouse overlooking Isabella Segunda. 

El Fortín De Conde Mirasol.  A small Spanish fort overlooking the town of Isabel Segunda surround a blue and orange painted museum. 

300 Year Old Ceiba Tree.  A sacred tree known for its age and impressive root structure. It’s located between the airport and Mosquito Pier.  

Mosquito Pier.  A mile long pier on the north side of the island. Come here to spot marine life including manta rays, sea turtles and jelly fish.

Paso Fino Horses.  The island is home to over 2,000 free roaming horses. They are tame and can be found walking the beaches, grazing in fields and along the road sides. Watch out for piles of horse manure. Various company’s offer riding tours along the beaches. 

Vieques National Wildlife Refuge.  A nature reserve that covers more than half the island and includes bays, mangrove forests, salt flats, hiking trails, beaches and coral reefs.

Things to Do 

Explore the Small Towns.  Vieques is home to two small towns on opposite sides of the island.

• Isabel Segunda. The main town on the north side of the island with the ferry terminal, grocery stores, restaurants, hotels and souvenir shops.

• Esperanza.  A beach town on the south side of the island with restaurants, hotels, tour companies and a range of beaches. 

Crab Island Rum Distillery.  Visit the island’s on rum distillery! Crab Island produces 14 month, 3 year and orange flavored rums. Most bars and restaurants on the island serve their rum. Go to Bili for a Rum Island Iced tea made from all three! 

Go Stargazing.  Given the remote location and lack of city lights, the sky is often dark for brilliant stargazing. Download the free Sky Tonight app to identify constellations, planets and distant stars.

Kayak in the Bioluminescent Bay (Mosquito Bay).  Recognized as the brightest bioluminescent bay in the world. We came here to kayak at night to experience the bioluminescence. Immediately after paddling away in our kayak, the water began to sparkle around us, our paddle illuminated vibrant streaks of bioluminescence and swimming fish left a glowing trail behind them. It was truly an unreal experience that felt like the Manta Ray in Moana or a patronus charm in Harry Potter. Book with Abe’s Snorkeling and Bio Bay Tours. They offer snorkeling tours across the island and kayaking tours in the bio bay and mangrove channels. 

Beach Hopping 

Rent a car and spend time beach hopping across the island. Vieques is home to numerous beaches ranging in size, swimmability and accessibility. The most popular and swimmable beaches are on the south side of the island. The most remote are located in the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge.

Bastimento Beach.  A long meandering beach with turquoise water, a sandy shore, coral reefs, a protected tide pool and snorkeling on the north side of the island.

El Gallito (Gringo Beach).  A roadside beach with a sandy shore, short palm trees and views looking towards the mainland of Puerto Rico and Culebra. 

Playa Negra.  A semi remote cliff side black sand beach. There is a small parking lot nearby Playa Negra Fine Foods. Follow a trail to get here (technically a stream) and walk for 15 minutes until reaching the beach. It’s not the safest for swimming due to rocks and currents. It’s located on the south side just west of Esperanza. 

Playa Caracas (The Red Beach).  A beach with white sand, palm trees, turquoise water and shard gazebos. It’s located in the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge.

Esperanza Beach.  A popular beach nearby town on the south side of the island with kiosks, restaurants, bars and kayak rentals.

Sea Glass Beach.  A small beach to collect handfuls of sea glass within minutes of beach combing. It’s located in the town of Isabel Segunda. 

Playa Pata Prieta (Secret Beach).  A secluded beach popular for swimming and snorkeling. It’s a 10 min drive east of Playa Caracas. 

Playa Chiva (Blue Beach).  A long powder white sand beach with calm with turquoise and navy blue water. Come here to swim and snorkel. It’s a 5 min drive east of Playa Pata Prieta. 

Escondida Beach.  A small beach with some snorkeling. It can frequently be covered in sea weed. Located a 15min walk east of Playa Chiva. 

Playa Plata.  A semi private white sand beach with crystal clear turquoise water for swimming and snorkeling. Located a 5min drive east of Playa Chiva. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Saint Voodoos Mar Azul.  A waterfront bar with a deck overlooking the Caribbean. Come here for cocktails and lite bites at sunset. 

Lazy Jacks.  A restaurant and bar near Esperanza beach for tacos, sandwiches, salads, beers and cocktails. 

Lydia’s Bakery.  A bakery with breads, sandwiches, pastry’s and coffee. 

Bili.  A restaurant with an impressive seafood menu including Caribbean lobsters, grilled mahi mahi and octopus. Come here for their Crab Island Long Island. 

Vieques Food Park.  A food truck park with several restaurants. We came to Rincon Cafe for breakfast and coffee. 

Bar La Nasa.  A beach front bar with cocktails, beer and music. 

Family Market Centró Ahorras.  A grocery store located in Isabella Seguda. Come here to stock up on water, beers and snacks before heading to the beach. 

Getting to Vieques 

By Air.  We booked a one way flight with Cape Air, from San Juan to Vieques. It’s a quick 20 min flight over the El Yunque rainforest and scenic way to travel. They offer multiple flights daily for around $100 one way. 

By Sea.  We booked our return trip on the Puerto Rico Ferry, from Vieques to Ceiba. From Ceiba we took an Uber to San Juan. One way ferry tickets cost $2 and the Uber costs around $100. 

Getting Around Vieques

By Car.  Vieques is a large island. The best way to get around, see all of the sights and explore is by renting a car. We booked with Maritza’s Car Rental for about $110 per day with insurance. 

By Taxi.  Taxis were readily available across the Island bringing people between Isabella Segunda, Escondida, the airport and accessible beaches. 

Where to Stay

Tropical Guest House. A beautifully decorated home in Isabella Segunda with a comfy bed, kitchenette, outdoor grill, beech chairs, umbrellas and snorkel equipment. Book here on Airbnb. 

Location Specifics

Respect the Culture.  Puerto Ricans are very proud of their island, culture and heritage. Please show respect when discussing local issues and topics. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and learn about the culture and island.  

US Territory.  Puerto Rico is a US Territory meaning US Citizens can visit the island without a passport. 

Language.  Spanish is the primary language spoken in Puerto Rico. English is widely spoken as a second language. Knowing basic Spanish words and phrases is helpful and beneficial when visiting. 

Currency.  Puerto Rico uses the US Dollar. 

Metric vs Imperial.  Puerto Rico uses a combination of the Metric and Imperial systems. Speed limits are in marked in mph while distances are marked in kilometers. Gasoline is sold by the liter instead of by the gallon. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit and debit card is widely accepted across the island. Cash is preferred by most vendors at markets, kiosks and some businesses. 

Power Outages.  The electrical grid is fragile due to devastation from past natural disasters. While power outages rarely affect tourists, they do happen. It’s a difficult part of life for many Puerto Ricans. 

Tap Water.  Tap water is generally safe for consumption around the island. 

Tropical Weather.  Puerto Rico experiences tropical weather. Carry an umbrella incase of afternoon and evening rain storms. Tropical storms and hurricanes are possible from June through November with September through October being the most active. 

Swimming.  Mind the warning signs and red flags advising about dangerous ocean currents. Pay attention to where others are and are not swimming. 

Sun Protection.  The harsh UV is dangerous in Puerto Rico. Wear sun block when outside, even on cloudy days. 

Insect Repellent.  Mosquitos are prevalent across the island with mosquito borne illnesses on the rise. Wear insect repellant to minimize bites.  

Clothing.  Shorts and tank tops are generally acceptable to wear, keep the swimwear for the beach and plan to change into pants while dining out or visiting local spots. 

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico 

From vibrant cities and rainforest hikes to surf breaks and mountain landscapes, explore more of Puerto Rico beyond its offshore islands through these travel guides:

San Juan Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Beaches, Food & Local Culture.  Discover Puerto Rico's vibrant capital through historic neighborhoods, Caribbean beaches, local cuisine, nightlife and the rhythms of everyday island life.

Old San Juan Travel Guide: Historic Streets, Food & Colonial Charm.  Wander colorful cobblestone streets lined with colonial architecture, historic forts, local restaurants and centuries of Puerto Rican history.

Eastern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: El Yunque, Bioluminescent Bays & Beaches.  Explore Puerto Rico's lush eastern coast through rainforest trails, bioluminescent bays, secluded beaches and outdoor adventures.

Western Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Rincón, Beaches & Surfing.  Discover Puerto Rico's surf capital through laid-back beach towns, coastal scenery, marine life and world-class waves.

Southwestern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Cabo Rojo, La Parguera & Beyond.  Experience salt flats, mangrove channels, bioluminescent waters, coastal cliffs and some of Puerto Rico's most unique landscapes.

Central Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Mountains, Hiking & Taino Sites.  Journey through Puerto Rico's mountainous interior to discover cloud forests, hiking trails, coffee farms and Indigenous heritage.

Ponce Puerto Rico Travel Guide: History, Architecture & Local Culture.  Explore Puerto Rico's second city through grand architecture, local museums, historic plazas and a distinctly southern cultural identity.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips to Vieques including: 

Mt. Pirata Observation Post.  Hike to tropical summit of the tallest point on Vieques measuring nearly 1,000 feet above sea level. 

Horseback Riding on Vieques.  We have our eyes set on a beach sunset horseback riding tour. 

Old San Juan Travel Guide: Historic Streets, Food & Colonial Charm

Bienvenidos al Viejo San Juan

Old San Juan is an enchanting, romantic, vibrant and historic neighborhood of San Juan, Puerto Rico. The old town is lined with cobble stone streets, colorful colonial architecture, world famous cocktail bars, restaurants serving Caribbean cuisine and music playing during all hours of the day. It is rich in history, flanked by two fortresses and surrounded by a stone wall overlooking the North Atlantic. 

A Second Home

Puerto Rico has become a second home to us. From quick weekend getaways to month long trips, we’ve spent time exploring the island and immersing ourselves in so much of what it has to offer from the nature, cuisine and culture. This guide focuses on our time visiting and staying in Old San Juan. 

Neighborhoods & Streets

Calle San Sebastián.  A cobblestone street is lined with colorful and vibrant colonial architecture. It’s known for its bustling nightlife scene, famed cocktail bars and lgbtq+ friendly atmosphere. 

Calle San Francisco.  This street runs central through Old San Juan and is a good place to start exploring. There are plenty of restaurants, bars, cafes, shops, hotels, plazas and residences here.

Calle de la Luna.  Though all streets in Old San Juan are flanked with beautiful architecture, this one is one of our favorites to walk down. There are many colorful buildings, colonial balconies, unique door knockers and abandoned buildings that have been retaken by nature. 

Plaza das Armas.  Old San Juan’s historic town square with performers, a fountain, statues and pigeons. It’s a favorite spot of ours to grab a coffee and mallorca from the green gazebo in the northwest corner. 

Caleta de San Juan.  A romantic tree covered street lined with colorful colonial buildings, hole in the wall restaurants and wine bars. The cobblestone street leads uphill from the Puerta de San Juan to the historic Basilica of San Juan. 

La Perla.  A colorful seaside neighborhood located between the north wall of Old San Juan and the Atlantic Coast. Over the past years, the community in La Perla has turned their neighborhood into a destination filled with rustic bars, local hangouts and art. 

Sights & Museums 

Castillo de San Cristóbal.  This is one of the largest colonial military fortress in the Caribbean and marks the entrance to Old San Juan. You can easily spend a half day here exploring the barracks, fortress walls, guard towers and grounds. One of the fort’s hidden gems is a surviving drawing of Spanish ships drawn on the wall of a former prison cell deep with in the tunnels. 

Castillo San Felipe del Morro (El Morro).  This is the oldest colonial fortress in the Caribbean and a great place to learn about the history and strategic importance of Old San Juan. Similar to San Cristobal, you can spend an afternoon here exploring the different levels and sections. The fort is perched on the NW side of the old town. It’s accessible after crossing a large lawn known for flying Chiringas or kites and food carts selling tropical flavored snow cones called Piraguas. 

Pro Tip.  The receipt from one fort gets you access to the other on the same day you visit.

Paseo del Morro.  A romantic seaside promenade that follows the old town’s wall. It is a beautiful place to walk, watch the sunset and look out towards the sea. We we’re incredibly lucky to see the Green Flash from here. It passes La Puerta de San Juan, the original entrance to the walled city and connects Paseo de la Princesa to the Maria Magdelana Cemetery. 

La Casa Estrecha.  A narrow house, measuring about 5 feet wide, with a vibrant yellow facade. Adorned with the Puerto Rican flag, the building is an iconic symbol of Old San Juan.  

Calle Fortaleza. A street is filled with souvenir shops, restaurants and jewelry stores, ending at the Governor’s Mansion, La Forteleza. The end of the street is often decorated in an ever changing canopy of umbrellas, banners, flowers or lights. 

Paseo de la Princesa.  A palm lined seaside promenade along the south wall. There is a nightly market with salsa dancing, food trucks offering up fried foods and sweets, gazebos selling cocktails, and tented vendors selling homemade crafts.

Plaza del Quinto Centenario.  A plaza commemorating the 500 years since Columbus first voyaged to Puerto Rico. At its center is a tall totem made from fragments of clay pottery representing the violent first meeting between the indigenous Taino and European colonists. 

La Puerta de la Bandera.  A black and white painting of the Puerto Rican flag on the wooden door of a crumbling brick building. It symbolizes Puerto Rican resistance against injustice.

Parque San Francisco.  A small and hidden park nestled between the crumbling brick and plaster walls of the surrounding colonial buildings. The park offers a quiet place to relax and take a break while exploring the old town. 

Callejón de la Puerta con la Bandera. A large doorway at the end of a blue cobblestone alley with a vivid painting of the Puerto Rican flag. It’s a very popular photo spot for both tourists and locals. Recently an artist added a colorful mural of Puerto Rican artists Bad Bunny and Elizam Escobar to the adjacent door.

Maria Magdelana Cemetery.  A beautiful seaside cemetery with above ground tombs, a large mausoleum and monuments dedicated to the dead. Its location between La Perla and El Morro along the coast is strategic to carry the deceased souls across the ocean into the afterlife. 

Museo de las Americas.  This museum focuses on pre-colonial and modern art and artifacts, the colonization of Puerto Rico and the island’s African heritage.

Capilla del Cristo.  A small chapel built on the cliffside edge of the old town’s wall. It is dedicated to health and well being, commemorating the story of a man who plunged off the cliff while horse racing but survived. 

Things to Do

Hire a Photographer.  Hire a photographer to take photos of you around the old town during the morning or evening golden hours. We booked with Raul at Rolo Photo PR and couldn’t have been happier with the outcome! 

Fly a Chiringa. The ocean breezes from the lawn in front of El Morro make it a great location and fun Sunday afternoon pastime. Kites can be bought from street vendors adjacent to the lawn. 

Visit the Farmers Market.  Located in front of the San Juan Museum every Saturday morning. It’s a great spot to purchase local produce, fresh baked breads and flowers.

Sunset Harbor Boat Ride.  A sunset cruise on a large pontoon style boat around the harbor of Old San Juan with historical info, snacks, rum punch and music. Book Here!

Vamos al la Playa

Playa Peña.  A secluded beach in Old San Juan, located on the other side of Castillo de San Cristobal. It’s a cute sand and rock beach below the cliff in front of the capital. The water isn’t safe for swimming. 

Playa El Escambrón.  A sandy palm covered beach between Old San Juan and Condado. It’s a popular beach for swimming, snorkeling, grilling and sunbathing. The best place to snorkel is the protected cove next to the Caribe Hilton. Come here in the morning to spot sea turtles feeding in the seagrass and tropical fish swimming among the underwater sculpture garden. There’s also the ruins of a small fort, Fortín del Escambrón, nearby. 

Places to Shop

Spicy Caribe. A spice store with hot sauces, spices and vanilla made from locally grown ingredients. 

El Mundo Taino.  A souvenir shop with locally made home goods, artwork, jewelry and coffee. 

Hatian Gallery.  A shop specializing in handmade artwork, sculptures and jewelry from Puerto Rico and other Caribbean islands. 

Materia Prima.  An organic grocery store with local farmed Puerto Rican produce, provisions and meats. It has a coffee bar and is connected to a wine bar in the Hotel Convento. 

U Go Market. A grocery store with produce, snacks, beverages, alcohol, beach-ware and sunblock. 

John Napoli.  A kitchen supply store with a range of cookware and kitchen gadgets including Puerto Rican pilóns, calderos and large paella pans.

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Chillo Frito Entero. A fried red snapper served whole with crispy skin, tender meat and squeezed with lime. It’s usually accompanied by fried plantains like tostones, mofongo or amarillos. 

Mofongo. Fried plantain mashed with garlic and butter. It’s often served plain or stuffed with an option of seafood. If prepared with bread fruit and yucca, it’s known as trifongo. 

Empanadillas. Puerto Rican style fried empanadas stuffed with a range of fillings like octopus, conch, cod, shrimp, crap and pizza. 

Pinchos. Grilled meats served on a stick often served at beaches or roadside kiosks. Our favorites are shark and shrimp. 

Mallorca. A Puerto Rican pasty often shaped like a bun or swirled roll and dusted in powered sugar. Our favorite preparations are pressed with guava with cheese or egg and cheese. 

Coco Frio. A cold and freshly opened coconut. Drink the coconut water inside then the sweet meat inside. Alternatively, enjoy it with coconut rum to create a tropical cocktail 

Rum. Puerto Rico is unarguably the rum capital of the Caribbean with several distilleries and local brands served in bars across the island. Order it on the rocks, in a Pina Colada or other tropical cocktail. 

Medalla. The island’s most popular local beer, recognizable by it’s small golden can. It has a light slightly nutty flavor and is served everywhere. Buy a 6 pack for the beach! 

The Food Scene 

A huge part of the culture in Puerto Rico involves eating, drinking and getting together with others. With that in mind, there are so many great places to eat and drink. Having visited Old San Juan several times, we’ve been able to try out numerous restaurants, cafes and bars. 

Pro Tip. It’s best to make a reservation whenever dining out in Old San Juan. 

Restaurants 

La Garita.  A restaurant and bar serving Puerto Rican dishes and rum cocktails with a view overlooking La Perla. Ask for a Pina Colada made with a double shot of Don Q, Puerto Rico’s most popular rum. 

El Jibarito.  Another restaurant serving Puerto Rican dishes. Come here for the whole fried fish and mofongo. 

La Madre.  A Mexican restaurant with delicious tacos. Eat outside on the pedestrian tree-lined street. 

Cayo Caribe.  A local chain of restaurants serving Caribbean seafood. Try the Salmorejo (stewed land crab and tomatoes), stuffed mofongos or chillo frito entero. 

Ladis.  A famous seaside restaurant built into the cliff between OSJ and Condado. Come here for seafood, cocktails and ocean views.

Señor Paleta.  A popular spot to buy fruit and dessert popsicles mid-day or after dinner.

Puerto Criollo. A Puerto Rican restaurant with classics like fried snapper, stuffed mofongo and octopus salad. They also service inventive tropical cocktails in unique glasses.

Al Fresco Rooftop Wine & Tapas.  A quiet place with a rooftop patio in the middle of Old San Juan. Come here for lite bites and wine. We shared a cheese board and bottle of bubbly. 

Otras Cosas.  A large outdoor restaurant to come for lunch, dinner and live music. Try the whole Caribbean lobster and coconut filled with coconut rum. 

Mar y Rosa.  A rooftop restaurant with el fresco dining and an elevated menu. Come here for the panoramic views at sunset, tasty cocktails and seafood menu with Korean & Caribbean influences. 

El Champi.  A tapas restaurant offering Spanish style small plates, paella and charcuterie. It’s located on Caleta de San Juan, a romantic tree covered street.  It’s adjoined by El Rincón del Vino, a small wine bar with a broad selection of wines all nestled within a small interior courtyard. 

Atelier Rooftop Terrace.  A rooftop bar and restaurant at the Hotel Palacio Provincial. It offers sunset views and overlooks the neighboring basilica.  

Caleta del Vino.  A charming wine bar, nestled on cobblestone street along the historic city wall. Come here for a romantic sunset to enjoy a curated charcuterie spread paired with wines by the glass or bottle. 

Dos Lobos.  A local chain specializing in nearly a dozen different types of baked Puerto Rican pastelillos (aka, empanadas). Order a pastelillos to go or enjoy one at the bar with a local beer or cocktail.

Aliado Bar & Apertivo.  A fully vegan restaurant with an inventive menu and range of dishes made using locally sourced ingredients. Order a trio of dishes to share like the papaya nigiri, funghi pasta, and fondue. 

Pirilo Pizza Rustica.  An extremely popular pizzeria hidden on the second floor of an old town building. They offer a variety of handmade and artisan style pizzas, empanadas and local beers. 

Cafes & Coffee Shops 

Cuarto Estaciones.  A green gazebo located in the Plaza de Armas serving coffee and pastries. We often come here for our first breakfast while in town, sitting under the shaded patio, surrounded by potted plants and chirping birds. Our usual order consists of iced lattes with canela and Mallorca with guava and cheese. They’re cash only. 

La Carreta.  Come here for the variety of sweet and savory breakfast dishes. Try an egg sandwich on Mallorca and a mimosa made from freshly squeezed OJ. 

Caficultura.  A brunch spot in Plaza Colón serving versions of the Puerto Rican sweet bread, Mallorca. Try the Mallorca con Guayaba (guava) or Mallorca French Toast with locally grown and roasted coffee. 

St Germain Bistro & Cafe.  A vegetarian friendly brunch spot with pancakes, toasts, sandwiches and burgers. 

Mallorca. A bakery specializing in its namesake, Mallorca. It’s unmistakable by its sign spelling out Mallorca in large red letters.

787 Coffee.  A coffee shop brewing Puerto Rican grown and roasted coffee beans. We discovered them on the East Village of NYC and visited their location near Escambron Beach while in Old San Juan.  

Pilao Bakery-Cafe.  Bakery with large portion breakfasts and coffee. 

Bien Papaya.  A coffee shop with Mallorca, smoothies and smoothie bowls right by San Cristobal. 

Don Ruiz.  A cafe in the Museo de las Americas with fresh roasted coffee and bottled beer.

C.B Restaurant.  A breakfast and brunch spot in plaza colon. Try the Boricua Morning Mallorca. 

Cocktail Bars & Nightlife 

La Casita de Rones.  A pink house and outdoor cocktail bar serving rum and tiki drinks overlooking the bay. It’s a nice escape from the busy streets or to end the night.

La Factoria.  A famous cocktail bar, ranked in the Top 50 in the World. The bar is in a dimly lit old world interior, connected to multiple other bars. One of our favorite drinks to order here is the El Peligroso, made with Ron de Barillito, Campari, spices and lime. 

Vino.  A wine bar connected to La Factoria with wine based cocktails like sangria. 

El Desvio.  A tiny candle lit cocktail bar hidden within the passageways of La Factoria. It’s open sometimes and closed others. 

La Cubanita.  A cocktail bar with a local atmosphere and menu of traditional and craft cocktails. Like Vino and El Desivo, it’s connected to La Factoria. 

Antiguo 26.  A high end cocktail bar, set inside a former soda factory. Mixologists craft innovative cocktails using homemade sodas as a nod to the building's history. Its distinctive yellow and blue tiled facade makes it easily recognizable among the colorful buildings of Old San Juan.

The Mezzanine.  A cocktail bar offering a variety of tropical drinks made using local ingredients and spirits. Try the Coqui Coqui, a modern take on the classic Piña Colada, awarded best at the annual Piña Colada Festival or the Rum Sunset and Borikén Breeze for fruity and refreshing rum based drink.

El Batey.  A late night dive bar with graffitied walls, a pool table and lights covered in notes, cash and napkins left behind from past visitors.

Colmado Cocteleria Tropical.  A bar on Calle de San Sebastián designed like a traditional Puerto Rican colmado (a local convenience store) with shelves of faux and vintage groceries and plantain decor. Sip on a cocktail while playing dominos or taking pictures in the photo booth. 

La Sombrilla Rosa.  A popular gay bar on Calle San Sebastián. Bartenders serve in inexpensive drinks while Reggaeton music echos out onto the street. 

El Cafetín.  One of the most energetic bars on Calle San Sebastián with locals and tourists standing shoulder to shoulder, singing and dancing with a drink in hand late into the night 

Barrachina.  The location where the Piña Colada was invented. Come here for the classic cocktail and stay for lunch or dinner in their courtyard. 

Cannon Club.  A dueling piano bar with live parrots, multiple levels and eclectic decor. This place is more about the drinks and unique atmosphere than the food.

La Verguenza.  This multi-level bar overlooks La Perla is the center of nightlife in OSJ. The nightly party spills out into the streets and continues early into the morning. 

Cafe Darsenas.  A blue gazebo on the Paseo de la Princesa with affordable drinks and light bites. We often come here for a frozen sangria to-go. 

El Vino Crudo.  A hidden wine bar tucked away on Callejón Gambaro. They pour natural wines and serve Spanish tapas late into the night.

Scryer Rum Barrelhouse & Rooftop.  A small batch rum distillery and cocktail bar in Old San Juan with a wall of barreled rum. We drank cocktails here made exclusively from their house distilled rum under candle light during a city wide black out. 

Cervecería Del Callejón.  A micro-brewery with a small menu of house brewed beers and bar games. It’s located on the blue cobblestone alley of Callejón. Come here for flight and try their whole menu. 

Nico Rooftop Bar.  A small bar with a rooftop deck overlooking the Atlantic Ocean and the seaside community of La Perla. Come here for classic cocktails and small bites. 

La Grieta.  A dimly lit cocktail bar specializing in mezcal and mezcal cocktails. There is limited seating inside however the bar spills out onto the cobblestone street with small tables and sofas.

Cui Cui.  An upscale cocktail bar specializing in the truest forms of classic cocktails using ingredients of the era and location in which they were created. Their specialty menu features experimental cocktails with a Puerto Rican twist. 

Casa Melaza Rum Boutique.  A small rum bar offering tastings of vintage, rare and specialty rums. 

Places to Stay 

We’ve stayed at a range of places in Old San Juan including apartments overlooking the ocean, a private room in a rum baron’s mansion, a ruin style apartment and a boutique hotel. 

Casa Luna.  A boutique hotel with range of apartment rentals and a rooftop terrace. It’s located in the middle of Old San Juan on Calle de la Luna. Book Here!

Cozy Historic Ruin Apartment.  A small apartment built within the ruins of a crumbling building.The space has character and charm that exemplifies the old town. Book Here!

PH Apt in Old San Juan w/ Terrace.  A comfortable and spacious apartment with a large private terrace overlooking the old town’s cobblestone streets and colorful buildings. Book Here!

Live Like a Rum Baron in a 200 Year Old Mansion.  An elevated apartment with private rooms and cozy communal spaces in a renovated colonial building. Book Here!

Getting Around

On Foot.  Old San Juan is very walkable and by far the best way to see the city. Be careful of the narrow sidewalks and cobble stones. 

By Uber.  Use Uber to get to/from Old San Juan from the airport or San Juan proper. Ubers are typically inexpensive. The best place for pick up and drop off is Plaza Colon at the entrance of the old town. 

Free Shuttle.  There is a free “shuttle” aka a large golf cart the shuttles people a loop in the old town.

By Car / Parking.  Traffic gets congested in and around Old San Juan. The best place to park in Old San Juan is Dona Fella, garage on the south side of the Old Town. Parking typically costs $1 per hour.

Location Specifics

Respect the Culture.  Puerto Ricans are very proud of their island, culture and heritage. Please show respect when discussing local issues and topics. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and learn about the culture and island.  

US Territory.  Puerto Rico is a US Territory meaning US Citizens can visit the island without a passport. 

Language.  Spanish is the primary language spoken in Puerto Rico. English is widely spoken as a second language. Knowing basic Spanish words and phrases is helpful and beneficial when visiting. 

Currency.  Puerto Rico uses the US Dollar. 

Metric vs Imperial.  Puerto Rico uses a combination of the Metric and Imperial systems. Speed limits are in marked in mph while distances are marked in kilometers. Gasoline is sold by the liter instead of by the gallon. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit and debit card is widely accepted across the island. Cash is preferred by most vendors at markets, kiosks and some businesses. 

Power Outages.  The electrical grid is fragile due to devastation from past natural disasters. While power outages rarely affect tourists, they do happen. It’s a difficult part of life for many Puerto Ricans. 

Tap Water.  Tap water is generally safe for consumption around the island. 

Tropical Weather.  Puerto Rico experiences tropical weather. Carry an umbrella incase of afternoon and evening rain storms. Tropical storms and hurricanes are possible from June through November with September through October being the most active. 

Swimming.  Mind the warning signs and red flags advising about dangerous ocean currents. Pay attention to where others are and are not swimming. 

Sun Protection.  The harsh UV is dangerous in Puerto Rico. Wear sun block when outside, even on cloudy days. 

Insect Repellent.  Mosquitos are prevalent across the island with mosquito borne illnesses on the rise. Wear insect repellant to minimize bites.  

Clothing.  Shorts and tank tops are generally acceptable to wear, keep the swimwear for the beach and plan to change into pants while dining out or visiting local spots. 

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

From rainforest adventures and island escapes to surfing beaches and mountain landscapes, continue exploring Puerto Rico beyond Old San Juan's historic walls through these travel guides:

San Juan Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Beaches, Food & Local Culture.  Discover Puerto Rico's vibrant capital through historic neighborhoods, Caribbean beaches, local cuisine, nightlife and the rhythms of everyday island life.

Eastern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: El Yunque, Bioluminescent Bays & Beaches.  Explore Puerto Rico's lush eastern coast through rainforest trails, bioluminescent bays, secluded beaches and outdoor adventures.

Culebra & Vieques Travel Guide: Beaches & Island Adventures.  Escape to Puerto Rico's offshore islands for pristine beaches, snorkeling, wildlife refuges and some of the Caribbean's clearest waters.

Western Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Rincón, Beaches & Surfing.  Discover Puerto Rico's surf capital through laid-back beach towns, coastal scenery, marine life and world-class waves.

Southwestern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Cabo Rojo, La Parguera & Beyond.  Experience salt flats, mangrove channels, bioluminescent waters, coastal cliffs and some of Puerto Rico's most unique landscapes.

Central Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Mountains, Hiking & Taino Sites.  Journey through Puerto Rico's mountainous interior to discover cloud forests, hiking trails, coffee farms and Indigenous heritage.

Ponce Puerto Rico Travel Guide: History, Architecture & Local Culture.  Explore Puerto Rico's second city through grand architecture, local museums, historic plazas and a distinctly southern cultural identity.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around Old San Juan including: 

San Sebastian Festival.  A massive festival and street party held throughout Old San Juan in January to mark the end of the holidays with performers, a parade, street food, music and dancing. 

Tomb of Juan Ponce de León.  The tomb of the decisive conquistador credited with founding San Juan. His tomb is located inside of the Catedral Basilica Menor de San Juan Bautista

Casa Blanca.  A 500 year old house in Old San Juan built for Ponce de Leon. It was converted into a museum with Spanish colonial artifacts.

San Juan Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Beaches, Food & Local Culture

San Juan, Puerto Rico

San Juan is a tropical metropolis that’s equal parts city and beach with skyscrapers and homes lining the Atlantic coast. Come here to spend leisurely afternoons on a sandy shore, under an umbrella or at a beach club. Explore the city’s cultural side at art museums, graffitied streets, historic sights and rum distilleries. Celebrate life like a Puerto Rican with Reggaeton music, salsa dancing, traditional dishes, tropical drinks or a local beer. 

Neighborhoods & Streets

Condado.  A seaside neighborhood with skyscrapers, hotels, restaurants, bars and beaches.

Miramar.  A residential neighborhood with historic homes and buildings built in The Spanish Colonial Revival style. It’s central to Old San Juan and Condado. 

Santurce.  A large area of San Juan home to art museums, food truck parks and the nightlife hubs of Calle Cerra and La Placita. 

Ocean Park.  A trendy yet local neighborhood popular for its beach and variety of restaurants and nightlife. 

Calle Loíza.  Ocean Park’s main street for brunch spots, open air restaurants, cocktails bars, surf shops and Loíza Brinca, a famous corner building featuring the Puerto Rican flag.

Carolina.  A suburb of San Juan home to the city’s airport, oceanfront resorts and pristine white sand beaches. 

Vamos a la Playa

Atlantic Beach.  A lengthy golden sand beach in Condado and one of the most popular in San Juan. Come here so tan in the tropical sun, swimming in the turquoise blue waters or body surf in the waves. Hotels rent sun umbrellas and lounges to non-guests, kiosks offer tropical cocktails and juices and vendors walk the beach selling empanadas. There is a large gay section in front of The Tryst Hotel on weekends. 

The Atlantic at the Tryst.  An ocean front bar and restaurant at The Tryst Hotel on Atlantic Beach. Come here for drag brunch on Sundays to watch Puerto Rican queens perform, lip sync for their life and collect dollar bills from lively guests. 

Pro Tip.  Join the other gays soaking up the sun on the beach after brunch! Keep your receipt to rent a pink umbrella and sun lounge for free!

Playita del Condado.  A beach located next to the Puente dos Hermanos between the Condado Lagoon and the Atlantic Ocean. The water is calm enough for swimming and snorkeling with chair rentals for lounging on the beach.

Ocean Park Beach.  This vast beach is probably the most popular in San Juan. Everyone from locals, tourists, families and couples come here. There are plenty of restaurants, marine sports and activities, chair and umbrella rentals and vendors selling drinks on the beach.

Numero Uno Beach Hotel & Restaurant.  A beach club located at Ocean Park Beach. Come here for a relaxing day under the shade of an umbrella or palm tree while watching kite surfers ride the wind and waves. Order the beach vibes package, it includes two chairs, an umbrella, bottle of bubbly and bag of chips and salsa.

Carolina Public Beach.  A lengthy tan beach with calm and swimmable waters. It’s watched over by lifeguards and popular with locals and families. There are a few beachfront gazebos offering drinks, snacks and ice cream. 

Ocean Lab Brewing Co.  A craft brewery at Carolina Beach with nearly 2 dozen beers. Come for lunch and order a flight while overlooking the aquamarine ocean waters. Try the Mambo for a juicy wheat beer with passionfruit notes or the SJU for an easy drinking lager.

Isla Verde Beach.  A continuation of Carolina Public Beach with tall palm groves, shaded gazebo rentals and a series of resorts providing chair and umbrella rentals. The beach is the perfect spot to swim, sunbathe and relax! 

Pine Grove Beach.  A beach between Island Verde and Ocean Park Beaches. It’s popular for beginner surfing with surf schools and rentals.  

See the Sights & Museums 

Fortín San Jerónimo de Boquerón.  A small fort at the mouth of the Condado Lagoon. The visiting hours are infrequent due to repairs post Hurricane Maria. It’s worth visiting if open. 

Puente Dos Hermanos.  The bridge crossing the Condado Lagoon connecting to Old San Juan. It’s beautiful to walk across with great views. There is also a ledge making it easy to jump from into the lagoon. The Condado side has a small sandy beach, Playita del Condado.

Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico.  A well curated and diverse collection of Puerto Rican art and history. After touring the galleries, walk through the sculpture garden. 

Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Puerto Rico (MAC).  A contemporary art museum with rotating galleries specific to social movements, local artists and Puerto Rican heritage. 

Things to Do

Visit a Rum Distillery.  The two distilleries to visit are the Bacardi Factory or Ron del Barrilito. Both offer similar experiences. Bacardi is large scale production while Ron de Barrilito is small batch and higher end. Arrive to a welcome drink, learn about the history of each distillery, their processes of rum making and afterwards take a mixology class, sample aged vintages or simply order cocktails from the bar. Either way, expect to leave tipsy.  

SUP or Kayak in Laguna de Condado.  Tour companies based around the lagoon offer SUP and Kayak rentals for $20/hour. The lagoon is a boat free place to spot eagle rays, star fish and sea turtles. We booked though VIP Adventures Puerto Rico.

Take the Ferry to Cataño.  A neighborhood a quick ferry ride across the harbor from Old San Juan with a waterfront boardwalk home to several restaurants and bars. The ferry operates from the cruise docks hourly throughout most of the day for just a couple of dollars. It’s a popular place to visit for the Bacardi Factory from. 

Eat at Piñones.  A food hub known for Puerto Rican and Caribbean cuisine just outside of San Juan. The main street, located along the Atlantic coast, is lined with dozens of restaurant, bars and kiosks. We hopped from place to place and ordered crab empanadillas, cod alcapurrias, coco frio and rum punch. Visit El Coco Frio for quick roadside bites and Los Barriles Restaurant for a plated dishes and beach views. Visit the dockside restaurant of La Casita Amarilla for their arepas de coco and flavored mojitos. Relax in the sandy and shallow tide pools at Poza Los Barriles Beach. 

Take Salsa Lessons.  Take a salsa lesson from a local instructor, learning the history and basics before heading to a salsa bar in La Placita to practice your moves. Lesson happen by night in Plaza Antonia Quiñones. Return on Sunday mornings for a weekly farmers market. Book Here!

Visit the Parque Forestal La Marquesa.  A forested nature park covered in a verdant canopy of trees and palms in the mountains outside of San Juan. Ride the teleferico (cable car) above the forested mountainside and lush ridges. Visit the butterfly conservatory and aviary to see monarchs, parrots and colorful birds fly around the netted enclosures. Hike the nature trails and climb the observation tower for picturesque views of the forest. 

Getting Here.  The forest park is located in the suburb of Guaynabo, reachable from San Juan by Uber or Lyft after a 30 minute ride. 

Calle Cerra

Calle Cerra is a gritty street with large murals and graffiti covered walls. The surrounding neighborhood is home to many hostels, restaurants, cafes & bars. The area becomes a center for nightlife on weekends. Hundreds of people gather at in the street and at bars as live music and reggaeton echos throughout the neighborhood. Some of our favorite spots are:

Esquina El Watusi.  This bar is the heart of the nightlife scene in Santurce. Come here to join hundreds of people gathered in the street out front and ordering from the bar. Drinks are strong and inexpensive. 

Machete.  A bustling yet vibey cocktail bar with well priced drinks and a menu of flavorful bites. To drink, try the Vampiro for something smokey or House Daq for something fruity. To eat, order the ceviche and pulpo + fries! 

Botánico.  A spacious cocktail bar with an interior patio decorated in florals. Come here for an escape from the high energy atmosphere of other bars along Calle Cerra. Try the Flora or Mezcal Botanical. 

Identidad.  A James Beard Awarded cocktail bar with a menu of Caribbean flavored cocktails and small plates as well as a seasonal list of contemporary and experimental cocktails. Order the Crocantes de Atun, a raw tuna mixture over crispy rice. We plan to return for their 5-7pm happy hour! 

Pro Tip.  Wear pants and shoes to avoid being turned away at bars.

La Placita

La Placita is a Puerto Rican cultural hub. Its historic market opens each morning to vendors selling locally grown produce like plantains, papaya, ñame and yautía. Elderly locals gather in the surrounding to play dominoes by day. Music fills the plaza each night as locals come to dance Salsa and feast on Puerto Rican cuisine from surrounding restaurants. 

The Produce Market.  Located inside the Plaza de Mercado in the center of the plaza. We used a machete to cut plantains from the bunch, picked out limes to make our own cocktails and selected a ripe papaya for lunch. 

La Tasca del Pescador.  The place to go for seafood! Come here for the whole fried red snapper, squid ink rice & grilled prawns.

Taberna Los Vázquez.  An energetic salsa bar on the corner of La Placita with live music and cheap drinks.

Boronía en la Placita.  A restaurant serving Creole cuisine like mofongo, gumbo and seafood dishes.

El Sabor de Reina.  A Puerto Rican restaurant preparing traditional dishes like stuffed mofongo, fried pork chops, seafood rice dishes and whole fried red snapper. 

Jungle Bird.  A tiki cocktail bar located on a side street of La Placita with a menu featuring tropical cocktails, both classic and contemporary. Try their namesake, Jungle Bird, their version of the Rum Runner or house creation, the Tijuana Surf Rider. 

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Chillo Frito Entero.  A fried red snapper served whole with crispy skin, tender meat and squeezed with lime. It’s usually accompanied by fried plantains like tostones, mofongo or amarillos. 

Mofongo.  Fried plantain mashed with garlic and butter. It’s often served plain or stuffed with an option of seafood. If prepared with bread fruit and yucca, it’s known as trifongo.

Empanadillas.  Puerto Rican style fried empanadas stuffed with a range of fillings like octopus, conch, cod, shrimp, crap and pizza. 

Pinchos.  Grilled meats served on a stick often served at beaches or roadside kiosks. Our favorites are shark and shrimp. 

Mallorca.  A Puerto Rican pasty often shaped like a bun or swirled roll and dusted in powered sugar. Our favorite preparations are pressed with guava with cheese or egg and cheese. 

Coco Frio.  A cold and freshly opened coconut. Drink the coconut water inside then the sweet meat inside. Alternatively, enjoy it with coconut rum to create a tropical cocktail.

Rum.  Puerto Rico is unarguably the rum capital of the Caribbean with several distilleries and local brands served in bars across the island. Order it on the rocks, in a Pina Colada or other tropical cocktail. 

Medalla.  The island’s most popular local beer, recognizable by it’s small golden can. It has a light slightly nutty flavor and is served everywhere. Buy a 6 pack for the beach!

Places to Eat & Drink

From beachfront restaurants to food truck parks and cocktail bars, there is no shortage of great places to stop for a meal or drink in San Juan. Some of our favorites are: 

Cafes & Brunch Spots

Café Comunión.  A coffee shop and breakfast spot. Come for the coffee, open faced sandwiches and fresh sugar glazed donuts

Tostado.  A coffee shop breakfast spot. Come for the coffee, tropical fruit, French toast and egg dishes.

Musa.  A funky brunch spot with egg dishes, French toast and mimosas 

La Coffeetera.  A breakfast spot with dishes like pancakes and egg scrambles. Order the eggs Benedict on a Hawaiian roll or the stuffed avocado. 

Restaurants

La Vergüenza.  A traditional Puerto Rican restaurant serving criollo style dishes with ingredients like plantains, seafood, pork and chicken. It’s a popular spot with locations in San Juan and Old San Juan. 

La Cueva Del Mar.  A Puerto Rican seafood restaurant with a range of dishes like whole fried red snapper, ceviche, creole style shrimp, fish filets and fried plantains. 

Casita de Miramar.  A romantic restaurant serving elevated Puerto Rican cuisine. We dined here one evening on their outdoor porch. For our meal, we enjoyed plantain soup, mini bacalaitos, arroz de montosteo cooked with house made pique, a whole fried red snapper, and for dessert, tres leches made with coquito.

Paulina Escanes Gormandize.  We’ve dined here twice, for bunch and dinner, tasting a range of items across the menu including mallorca with egg, cheese and avocado, corn bread soufflé, tacos and Tiradito (Peruvian sashimi) on a tostada. 

Container Bar.  One of several waterfront restaurants and bars in Cataño nearby the ferry terminal. Try the crab salad arepas and enjoy a medalla. 

Food Truck Parks.  Quite popular across Puerto Rico, our go-tos in San Juan are Tresbé, Lote 23, and Miramar Food Truck Park.

Cocktail Bars & Nightlife 

Kane Rum Bar.  A rum bar in Condado with lux tropical vibes, cocktails and bites. Order a tiki drink like the Zombie, Mai Tai or Painkiller along side light bites like a vegan Hawaiian pizza, tropical ceviche or sesame seared tuna.

Bar La Unidad.  A speakeasy hidden behind an unmarked frosted glass door. The bar is open if the red light is illuminated. Their menu features a range of modern and innovative cocktails organized by spirit type, each served in differing crystal glassware. 

Pinaloca.  A walk-up window in Condado serving Pina coladas in pineapples. 

El Bar Bero.  A barbershop themed bar with barber chairs, mustache art and smokey cocktails.

Places to Stay 

We’ve stayed at a range of places in San Juan including airbnbs like a private room at a hostel and an apartment style inn. 

Casa Santurce Hostel.  A hostel with dorm and private rooms in San Juan’s arts district. It offers affordable rates and near nightly activities. Book Here!

Casa del Caribe Inn.  A small family run hotel in the heart of Condado. It’s large apartment style rooms are perfect for a weekend getaway. Book Here!

Cool Tripper’s Inn.  A boutique hotel near Ocean Park Beach with tiny yet well designed apartments. Book Here!

Getting Around 

On Foot.  The Condado and Ocean Park neighborhoods of San Juan are easily walkable. Be mindful of missing man hole covers on sidewalks. 

Ride Shares.  Uber and Lyft are both available in the San Juan area. They’re great for getting to and from the airport and around town. 

By Scooter.  Scooters are available to rent on the streets of San Juan. There are multiple companies including Skootel, Bird and Kick. 

By Car.  Rent a car to explore the island outside of the San Juan area. We’ve rented with affordable and reputable companies like Ace Rental, Charlie Car Rental, Sixt, Budget and Flagship.  

Location Specifics

Respect the Culture.  Puerto Ricans are very proud of their island, culture and heritage. Please show respect when discussing local issues and topics. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and learn about the culture and island.  

US Territory.  Puerto Rico is a US Territory meaning US Citizens can visit the island without a passport.

Language.  Spanish is the primary language spoken in Puerto Rico. English is widely spoken as a second language. Knowing basic Spanish words and phrases is helpful and beneficial when visiting. 

Currency.  Puerto Rico uses the US Dollar. 

Metric vs Imperial.  Puerto Rico uses a combination of the Metric and Imperial systems. Speed limits are in marked in mph while distances are marked in kilometers. Gasoline is sold by the liter instead of by the gallon. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit and debit card is widely accepted across the island. Cash is preferred by most vendors at markets, kiosks and some businesses. 

Power Outages.  The electrical grid is fragile due to devastation from past natural disasters. While power outages rarely affect tourists, they do happen. It’s a difficult part of life for many Puerto Ricans. 

Tap Water.  Tap water is generally safe for consumption around the island. 

Tropical Weather.  Puerto Rico experiences tropical weather. Carry an umbrella incase of afternoon and evening rain storms. Tropical storms and hurricanes are possible from June through November with September through October being the most active. 

Swimming.  Mind the warning signs and red flags advising about dangerous ocean currents. Pay attention to where others are and are not swimming. 

Sun Protection.  The harsh UV is dangerous in Puerto Rico. Wear sun block when outside, even on cloudy days. 

Insect Repellent.  Mosquitos are prevalent across the island with mosquito borne illnesses on the rise. Wear insect repellant to minimize bites.  

Clothing.  Shorts and tank tops are generally acceptable to wear, keep the swimwear for the beach and plan to change into pants while dining out or visiting local spots. 

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

From the cobblestone streets of Old San Juan to bioluminescent bays, mountain trails and Caribbean islands, discover more of Puerto Rico beyond the capital through these travel guides:

Old San Juan Travel Guide: Historic Streets, Food & Colonial Charm. Wander colorful cobblestone streets lined with colonial architecture, historic forts, local restaurants and centuries of Puerto Rican history.

Eastern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: El Yunque, Bioluminescent Bays & Beaches. Explore Puerto Rico's lush eastern coast through rainforest trails, bioluminescent bays, secluded beaches and outdoor adventures.

Culebra & Vieques Travel Guide: Beaches & Island Adventures.  Escape to Puerto Rico's offshore islands for pristine beaches, snorkeling, wildlife refuges and some of the Caribbean's clearest waters.

Western Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Rincón, Beaches & Surfing. Discover Puerto Rico's surf capital through laid-back beach towns, coastal scenery, marine life and world-class waves.

Southwestern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Cabo Rojo, La Parguera & Beyond. Experience salt flats, mangrove channels, bioluminescent waters, coastal cliffs and some of Puerto Rico's most unique landscapes.

Central Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Mountains, Hiking & Taino Sites.  Journey through Puerto Rico's mountainous interior to discover cloud forests, hiking trails, coffee farms and Indigenous heritage.

Ponce Puerto Rico Travel Guide: History, Architecture & Local Culture.  Explore Puerto Rico's second city through grand architecture, local museums, historic plazas and a distinctly southern cultural identity.

Maya Ruins Travel Guide: Jungles, Temples & Ancient Cities

Exploring the Maya Jungle

Deep within the lush jungles of Belize and Guatemala are some of the Mayan civilizations most sacred sights. Ancient acropolises reside at the center of lost cities while overgrown ruins and towering pyramids rise from the dense jungle canopy. Sacred caves and their vast chambers entomb sacrificial remains and historic artifacts. Remote towns offer places to taste local cuisine, meet over travelers and reenergize in nature. 

Caracol Mayan Ruins 

Caracol is an ancient Mayan city within the Belizean jungle. It’s ruins and acropolises are comprised of pyramids, ball courts, astronomic observatories, royal tombs, reservoirs and hieroglyphs. 

The Sky Palace.  A three tiered pyramid named Caana, which translates to “Sky Palace.” It has remained the tallest built structure in Belize for over 3,000 years! We climbed steep stone steps to its upper level, explored its rooms, crawled into a royal tomb and looked across Belize and into Guatemala from above the jungle canopy. 

Astronomical Acropolis.  Astronomy was one of the cornerstones of the Mayan Civilization. They built structures to track the solstices, study the stars and connect to their gods. The astronomical acropolis at Caracol is one of the most significant to be discovered. It’s flanked by temples, pyramids and a ball court. 

Wildlife Spotting.  The remoteness of the archeological park emphasizes the ancient and abandoned nature of the site. As we explored, we heard the billowing grunts of howler monkeys and spotted the reclusive Quetzal, Guatemala’s national bird. 

Caracol Tour.  We visited Caracol on a small group tour from San Ignacio, traveling about two hours along back roads through dense jungle to reach the ruins. The tout included a local lunch of rice & beans, fried plantains, spiced & stewed tofu and drank rum punch. We booked with Maya Walk Tours through Viator. 

Tikal National Park

Once the epicenter of the Mayan civilization, Tikal is the largest Mayan city ever constructed. Formerly home to 150,000 people and more than 2,000 structures, it’s now dramatically reclaimed by nature. Its ruins reveal the achievements, ceremonies and eventual collapse of the ancient Maya. Nature trails link towering temples, buried mounds and ongoing excavations while wildlife such as toucans, parrots, spider monkeys, and foxes roam the surrounding forest. We explored the ancient wonder on a cross border day trip from Belize to Gatemala. 

Temple of the Double Headed Serpent.  A ceremonial temple and the largest at Tikal. It’s crumbling ruins rise 70 meters from the jungle canopy. Stairs lead to its upper levels with views of the expansive jungle canopy and distant temples protruding from it. We imagined what the city must have looked like from this vantage point during its peak. 

Fun Fact.  The view from this temple is made famous by s scene in Star Wars when the Millennium Falcon landed on the rebel moon base of Yavin 4.

Temple of the Jaguar Priest.  One of the tallest temples at Tikal. It’s upper levels rise from the jungle canopy while it’s base is overgrown with vegetation. The temple is not accessible bt can be viewed through the trees below and from Temple IV. 

The Lost World Complex.  A large ceremonial complex with multiple temples, pyramids and an astronomical acropolis. It’s largest pyramid has an observation deck overlooking several nearby temples and pyramids across Tikal.  

The Talud Tablero Temple.  A temple within The Lost World complex featuring architectural influences from the Teotihuacan civilization. Climbable steps lead up its wide base and sloped levels to an exposed room at its top. 

Plaza of Seven Temples.  A linear astronomical acropolis with seven pyramids and temples designed to track the solstices and study the stars. Many of the structures remain overgrown and only partially exposed. 

The North Acropolis.  The most well preserved and recognizable acropolis at Tikal. Its central plaza framed by multiple pyramids, residential structures and a ball court. Once home to Mayan royals and the burial site of past rulers, it features tombs and stelae. The complex is largely free to explore, including the opportunity to climb two of its pyramids for sweeping views of neighboring structures and close-up looks at their detailed carvings and hieroglyphs.

Temple of the Great Jaguar.  The most picturesque pyramid at Tikal residing at the center of the North Acropolis. It’s ten level stepped sides lead to a throne room at its top. Though non-accessible, the temple can be view from the plaza and Temple II

The Temple of Masks.  A large stepped pyramid with a shrine at its upper level featuring eroded carvings of two masks. It offers the best views of the North Acropolis and 

Getting Here.  We visited Tikal with Belize Family Excursions on a day trip from San Ignacio. Our tour included transportation across the boarder of Belize and Guatemala, free time to explore the ruins and lunch at a local restaurant in Guatemala. 

Actun Tunichil Muknal Cave

Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM) is one of the most sacred places to the ancient Mayans, considered the entrance to the underworld. The sprawling cave system features an underground river and breathtaking rock formations. The chambers of the cave contain sacrificial human remains and Mayan pottery. The cave is well protected, with only a limited number of visitors permitted to enter per day.

The Entrance of the Underworld 

A hike through the jungle and across three shallow rivers leads to the entrance of the cave. A striking blue river flows from the darkness of its mouth. We swam inside with headlamps lighting the way. We squeezed through tight crevices and water filled passages before entering wider chambers and climbing over rocks as the river moved around us. Along the way, we admired clusters of stalactites and stalagmites used as musical instruments, like a xylophone, by the ancient Maya when tapped on. We scrambled up to a cliff to access the cave’s vast second half.

Ceremonial Chambers 

At this point, we removed our shoes and continued in our socks out of reverence of what awaited. We stepped into a massive cathedral like chamber with columns of rock, sparkling stalactites and mineral pools. Countless pieces of 1,000 year old pottery lay all around us, many of which remained mostly intact. Carved stalagmites cast shadows said to depict stories of Mayan gods. As we moved deeper, we encountered skeletal remains of sacrificial victims, including skulls and the bones of infants, culminating in the haunting sight of two calcified and exceptionally well preserved skeletons at the chamber’s furthest reach.

Mayan History

The ancient Mayans visited Actun Tunichil Muknal to make sacrifices in hopes the gods would provide water and end an extensive drought. When the rituals failed, the Mayan’s abandoned many parts of Belize and Guatemala leaving behind the ruins of their ancient cities.

Tips for Visiting Actun Tunichil Muknal:

• Less than 200 people are allowed in per day. We booked ahead of time with Maya Walk Tours on Viator.

• Phones, cameras, food and water bottles are prohibited. Photos provided are courtesy of Maya Walk Tours. 

• The trailhead to ATM is located over an hour from San Ignacio by car. 

• Like our tour of Caracol, it included a similar lunch. 

• You will get wet! Bring an extra pair of clothes and shoes to change into. 

Rio Frio Cave 

A sacred cave with a massive entrance, chamber and series of rock formations, including one resembling the profile of a monkey.  The ancient Maya believed the god of rain, Chacc, resided here, often appearing as a cloud of mist exiting the cave in the early morning. Visits are usually included on excursions to Caracol. 

Rio in Pool

Relaxing in Belize’s mountain rivers is a popular local pastime. The Rio in Pools are natural river pools formed in the bedrock of the Rio Frio. Contrary to the name, the pools are not cold but quite tepid. They are surrounded by a pine forest known as the pine ridge mountain. 

Western Belize 

Even in more remote areas of Western Belize are small towns and cities with thriving local culture, markets, restaurants and festivals. 

Cayo District.  A jungleous region of Belize on the west side of the country bordering Guatemala. It is home to lush terrain, underground rivers and most notably, Mayan ruins and temples. 

San Ignacio.  The main city in the Cayo District with a local and backpacker vibes. It’s a hub for eco activities and excursions on both sides of the Belize and Guatemalan boarders. 

Burns Avenue.  A pedestrian street in the center of San Ignacio with hostels, shops, restaurants, bars and tour operators. We visited in early may during the Cinco de Mayo Festival. The street was decorated with colorful banderas and came to life at night with music, fireworks and vendors selling street food. We ate papusas, tortas, and sambusas while sipping on margaritas and the local beer, Belikin. 

Bullet Tree Falls.  A remote town 5km from San Ignacio in the middle of the jungle only accessible by dirt road. We stayed here at the Mahogany Hall. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Lola’s Restaurant and Bar.  An outdoor patio perched on the hill overlooking San Ignacio. The menu was heavily seafood based. We ordered the herbed fish, blackened fish, conch & octopus ceviche as well as a few cocktails.

Ko Ox Han Nah.  A popular restaurant for Belizean cuisine made from local ingredients, mostly sourced from the San Ignacio Market. We ordered the whole fried red snapper and garlic rum shrimp with sides of coconut rise. 

Booze and Branches.  An open air bar circling a large tree with twinkle lights and linen draped pergolas made from branches. They offered classic cocktails like margaritas, mojitos, sangria and rum-ritas.

Guava Limb. A locally recommended restaurant on Burns Ave with a fusion of foods from Belize and South East Asia as well as brick oven pizza. We spent hours here chatting with a new friend, Jacob, who we met during our excursion to Actun Tunichil Muknal.

Coffee de los Mayas.  A coffee shop with a walk-up counter located on Burns Ave. 

San Ignacio Market.  A daily farmers market held near the center of town from 6am to 5pm. Local vendors set up stands selling vegetables, fruits, honey, souvenirs and street food. Come here for breakfast at Magaly’s Fast Food, sorrel (hibiscus juice) & horchata (sweetened rice milk).

Belizean Cuisine  

• Fry Jacks.  Deep-fried pieces of dough served with refried beans and tropical fruit.

• Salbutes.  Deep fried corn tortillas topped with veggies or meat. 

• Pupusas.  A white corn arepa stuffed with various fillings or toppings. We had the bean and cheese pupusas. 

• Escapeche.  Chicken and onion stewed in a curry sauce. We were offered a vegetarian version made with tofu during lunches on our excursions. 

• Sorrel.  Hibiscus juice. 

• Marie Sharps.  A popular habanero hot sauce seen on nearly every dining table throughout Belize. 

• Belikin.  Belize’s national beer with a Mayan temple on its label. 

Where to Stay

We stayed at, Mahogany Hall, an eco hotel along the banks of the Mopan River in the town of Bullet Tree Falls. It was a peaceful location in the middle of the tropical jungle. Our room was accented with mahogany furniture with carvings of jaguars, toucans and tropical plants. The hotel has a restaurant, bar and infinity pool. We enjoyed breakfast here most mornings and a Belikin by the pool during the evenings. 

The Mopan River.  While here, we joined locals and waded in Mopan River to cool off from the afternoon heat. We lounged on the shallow river bed as the current gently passed by and tropical birds chased each other over head.  

Getting Around 

Airport Shuttle.  We shuttled to and from the airport and our hotel in Bullet Tree Falls with Belize Family Adventure through Viator. Transportation took less than two hours and was a good way to see the countryside.

Excursions. All of our excursions included transportation. We were either picked up from our hotel or at the operator’s office before being shuttled to our destination.

By Taxi. In San Ignacio, taxis were easy to find and would more than often find us. Identifiable by their green license plates with white letters. We took the number of one taxi driver, Apellio, who quickly became our driver while in town.Taxis cost $20-25 Belize Dollars ($10-$12.50 USD) between Bullet Tree Falls and San Ignacio. 

On Foot.  San Ignacio is a relatively small town and can be easily walked on foot.

Location Specifics

Currency. The Belizean Dollar and US Dollar are used interchangeably across the island. At the time, the exchange rate was 1 USD to 2 BLZ, making conversions and transactions easy. 

Cash vs Card.  Carry cash for for taxis, snacks and tips. 

Language.  English is the most commonly spoken language in Belize. Spanish is most commonly spoken in Guatemala. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption due to risk of contamination. Only drink filtered or bottled water. 

Elsewhere in Belize & Guatemala 

From colonial architecture to lakeside villages beneath towering volcanoes and Caribbean coral reefs discover more of Guatemala's and Belize’s rich history and landscapes.

Antigua Guatemala Travel Guide: Acatenango, Colonial Charm & Local Cuisine.  Explore Antigua Guatemala's cobblestone streets, colonial architecture and local cuisine beneath towering volcanoes, including the iconic hike to Acatenango and Fuego. 

Lake Atitlán Travel Guide: Villages, Volcanoes & Mayan Culture. Navigate between Lake Atitlán's lakeside villages where volcanic landscapes and living Mayan culture shape one of Guatemala's most remarkable destinations.

Caye Caulker Travel Guide: Snorkeling, Belize Barrier Reef & Island Life. Dive into Caye Caulker's turquoise waters for world class snorkeling in the Belize Barrier Reef while embracing the island's tropical spirit and Go Slow motto.

For Next Time…

We fell in love with the jungle, Mayan ruins and culture of Belize and Guatemala. We will certainly be back one day and have plans to visit more locations across both countries. 

Altun Ha.  A Mayan acropolis with pyramids, temples, ball courts and platforms on the mainland north of Belize City. 

Tikal Sunrise Hike.  An early morning hike in Tikal to watch the sunrise from the top of the famed pyramids. We saw photos of the colorful sunrise, layers of morning mist and dramatic ruins peak from jungleous canopy below.

Flores, Guatemala.  A picturesque island city on Lago Petén Itzá known for it’s colorful architecture and proximity to Mayan ruins. 

Caye Caulker Travel Guide: Snorkeling, Belize Barrier Reef & Island Life

Caye Caulker, Belize

Caye Caulker, Belize is a small Caribbean island with a tropical atmosphere and laid back way of life. The slow and sleepy vibes are emphasized by the islands motto “Go Slow.” Its sand covered streets, named after marine life, are lined with colorful wooden buildings, many of which are elevated on stilts. Conch shells decorate yards as palm trees sway above and pelicans flock overhead. Reggae beats play from beachfront bars, tours depart for the Belize Barrier Reef and locals sell handmade shell jewelry. The island is touristy but not overly developed allowing it to retain its character. 

The Belize Barrier Reef

The Belize Barrier Reef is the second largest coral reef in the world, stretching hundreds of miles along the Caribbean shores of Belize. The reef’s multi-hued blue waters are home to vast coral formations, low lying atolls, mangrove islands and tidal sand bars. The reef is teeming with all manner of marine life, making it a popular spot for snorkelers like us as well as divers, fishers and sailors. We were able to experience the reef from above and below, flying over parts of its expanse to The Blue Hole and snorkeling in the Hol Chan Marine Reserve. 

Seven Spot Snorkeling Tour 

We booked a snorkel tour stopping at seven points around Caye Caulker and The Great Belize Barrier Reef, including Shark Ray Alley and the Hol Chan Marine Reserve. 

The Coral Gardens.  A healthy reef home to a variety of colorful coral formations. Corals sway in the gentle currents as schools of tropical of fish swim past. 

Hol Chan Marine Reserve.  A protected marine reserve with an vast array of biodiversity and sea life. Our guide led us through an underwater “snorkel trail” to spot some of the reserve’s best sights. Between the giant coral formations, he pointed out countless species of marine life including a moray eel, barracudas, parrot fish, angelfish, blue striped grunts, horse eye jacks, sea fans, giant anemones, conches, christmas tree worms, sea urchins, sand dollars and a puffed up pufferfish with the scariest green eyes. 

Shark Ray Alley.  A grassy sandbar and feeding area with dozens of nurse sharks. We snorkeled and swam alongside them as they circled the boat and came within feet of us. Green sea turtles grazed in the open field of seagrass while small fish swam around pockets of corals. 

The Sunken Barge.  An underwater wreck now overgrown with lively corals and schools of colorful, striped and tropical reef fish. We snorkeled above the wreck and watched as fish swam in and out of holes in the ship. 

On our return to Caye Caulker, we stopped at Manatee Point, Tarpon Cove and Stingray Beach to spot manatees, tarpon, stingrays and seahorses. The full day tour included fresh fruit, lunch, rum punch and snorkel equipment. We booked with Salt Life Eco Tours on Get Your Guide. 

The Great Blue Hole Fly Over Tour 

The Great Blue Hole is a perfectly round geological formation famed for its deep blue color contrasted by lighter blues of the surrounding shallows. It was created by an underwater sink hole that collapsed and filled with seawater, giving it its color. We flew over it as if in a trance, circling from different altitudes on both sides of the airplane. In route, we flew over cayes, small islands, atolls, corals reefs and drop offs that created an intense spectrum of blue hues ranging from aquamarine to bright blue, turquoise, deep blue and navy. Looking out the windows, we were mesmerized by the blue beauty of the Caribbean and Belize Barrier Reef. The flight lasted about an hour. Though expensive, it is a sight worth seeing! We booked directly with Maya Island Air.

Things to Do 

Sunset Tiki Bar Cruise.  In love with all things tiki, we joined several others aboard the “Pontiki,” a pontoon boat converted into a floating tiki bar with a palm thatched roof and side skirt, bamboo railing, kitschy tiki decor, one of a kind tiki mugs and bamboo straws. Most importantly, the cruise included the booziest rum punch made with Belizean rums. For nearly two hours, our captain boated us around the Caye, refilling our tiki mugs and bringing us to the perfect spot for a Caribbean sunset. We booked with Nina’s Pontiki Cruises on Viator. 

Visit The Split.  The Split is a narrow channel separating the north and south sides of Caye Caulker. It is the informal center of the island and common departure point for tours. Visit The Lazy Lizard,  a beach club with an outdoor restaurant, expansive bar and music venue. Their pier is lined with colorful wooden lounges, tables shaded by thatched umbrellas and a ladder with a diving platform. 

We spent an afternoon lounging along the pier with tropical cocktails and lunch. Try the frozen coconut mojito and spicy margarita. After working on our tan, we swam around and snorkeled in the aquamarine waters, spotting stingrays, conch and starfish. At night, we returned for their Full Moon Party where we danced in the sand and howled at the full moon as live DJs spun House and Reggae music.

Feed or High Five a Tarpon.  Tarpon are giant ”bone fish” that grow up to several feet in length. On the west side of the caye is a small boardwalk where they swim around waiting to be fed. For $5 BZD, buy some bait, hold it above the water and wait for one of the giant fish to quickly jump out and snatch it from your hand. Alternatively, hold your hand just above the water and wait for one of the tarpon to “high five” your hand. It’s a common stop on snorkel tours. 

Spot Stingrays & Seahorses at Stingray Beach.  A small beach at the Iguana Reef Inn with palm shaded lounges, a thatched bar and habitat for stingrays and seahorses. We stopped in for rum cocktails and took our pick of the many lounges set up along shore before relaxing in the overwater swings and hammocks. While here, we spotted yellow and brown seahorses slinking alongside the pier and giant stingrays fluttering through the shallows near shore. It’s a common stop on most snorkel tours. 

Belizean Cuisine 

Belizean cuisine on Caye Caulker is influenced Caribbean and West Indies flavors. Restaurants barbecue the day’s fresh catch on street side grills, beach shacks serve savory fried foods, dishes are flavored with jerk seasonings, coconut, curry and spicy hot sauces. Dishes to try are Jerk and coconut shrimp, whole fried and grilled red snapper, grilled Caribbean lobster, conch fritters, conch and shrimp ceviche, coconut rice and curried seafood.

• Fry Jacks.  Deep-fried pieces of dough typically stuffed with refried beans served at breakfast. 

• Pupusas.  A corn masa arepa stuffed with various fillings like black bean and cheese, topped with a pickled cabbage and carrot slaw. 

• Johnny Cakes.  Sweet coconut and vanilla biscuits. 

• Marie Sharps.  The national hot sauce made with habanero and carrot. It’s available everywhere.

Places to Eat & Drink 

For a tiny island, there is no shortage of places to eat and drink! We visited several spots during our week on the Caye for local cuisine and island bites. 

Ice n’ Beans.  A coffee shop and cafe with breakfast sandwiches, fresh baked banana bread, rum balls and mini donuts. We quickly became regulars here during our week on the Caye, sitting at the yellow picnic tables under the palm trees with seaside views of the Caribbean. 

Errolyn's House Of Fryjacks.  A popular breakfast spot to try Belizean Fryjacks. Order any combination stuffed with refried beans, eggs, bacon, chicken, ham and cheese. Don’t forget to top it with house made green salsa! 

Pelican Sunset Bar.  The spot to watch the sunset, enjoy rum cocktails and feast on Caribbean seafood!We saw the sun set as leopard rays fluttered through the water, sipped on happy hour rum punches and ordered the island’s best conch fritters, whole fried red snapper and grilled lobster. Arrive an hour before the sunset to claim a table or sit along the dock with your feet dangling in the water. 

Big Titty Rum Bar.   A rum bar with a variety of house made and infused rums. With friends, we ordered a spread of daiquiris from classic, habanero, tamarind and grapefruit coconut. We came back near nightly for a final drink or shot of rum.

Las Palapas.  A higher end restaurant with surf and turf dishes and a full wine menu. It has a beachy and romantic vibe with a sand floor, wooden furniture and warmly lit chandeliers all under a thatched roof. We ordered the curry seafood and snapper filet. We came here for our friend’s engagement dinner and were not disappointed by quality of the food nor the service. 

Reina's.  We were lured in on our first night in town by a street side barbecue with fresh lobsters, red snapper and shrimp sizzling on its grates. We sat on rickety wooden furniture inside the beach style shack with sand below our feet while sipping on a Belikin as our food grilled. The restaurant is first come first serve but is worth the wait. Arrive just after opening to get first pick of the day’s fresh catch.

Roy’s Blue Water Grill.  One of the many seafood bar and grills on the Caye. We came here for dinner in hopes of tasting their well reviewed lion fish. Though they were sold out, we enjoyed fried cod fritters, snapper filets and coconut curry veggies.  

Hebbie Jeebies.  A street side bar with a menu of tropical rum cocktails like the rum runner, painkiller, mojito, piña colada or island favorite, Lizard Juice, made with Caribbean rum, pine apple juice and neon green Curaçao. Cocktails are served frozen or on the rocks. For an extra cost, they can be served in a coconut or pineapple! 

Nicco’s Ice Cream.  An Ice cream parlor with Belizean flavors like coconut, chocolate, tequila rose and sugar corn. The layer of which, literally tasted like sweet corn. 

Belize Chocolate Company.  A chocolate shop with Belizean chocolates including artisan truffles, brownies, cookies, chocolate bars, hot chocolate and cocoa nib tea.

Caye Caulker Bakery.  A bakery famed across the Caye for their cinnamon rolls. We stopped in on our last day for two of the spiraled and glazed cinnamon pastries. 

Belizean Rums & Beers 

Belizean rums and beers are popular across the country and often very affordable compared to anything imported. The most popular Belizean rum is Caribbean Rum. It’s available in clear, amber and coconut flavored varieties, all perfect for mixing in cocktails. The two most popular Belizean beers are Belikin and Land Shark. 

Belikin.  Belize’s national beer, baring the country’s most famed Mayan ruin, Caracol, embossed on its bottle. Its flavor is light but very bready. 

Land Shark.  A very easy drinking light beer with a slightly citric flavor. 

Caribbean Fusion Brewing Company.  The islands only brewery with brews influenced by the flavors of the island. We visited their second floor taproom and ordered a flight:

• Tropical Seltzer.  The house spiked seltzer made in a variety of tropical flavors like lime, fruit punch and pineapple. 

• Pale Ale. A classic beer with a rye forward flavor.

• Belgian Ale 1.  An ale with a slightly sour flavor close in flavor to a hefeweizen.  

• Belgian Ale 2.  An ale with a darker color and molasses flavor. 

• IPA.  An IPA with a very lightly hopped flavor and sweet finish. 

• Stout. A coconut flavored stout made with coconut water.

Where to Stay

Rik's Getaway Cabin.  We stayed at the most perfectly appointed tiny house on the south side of Caye Caulker in a very local area of the island. Perched on stilts, the tiny house included a full kitchen, queen sized bed, spacious bathroom with washer & dryer, board games, a tv and an outdoor deck with a ledge for dining. Book on Airbnb.

The Treetops Hotel. A boutique hotel with spacious apartment style rooms equipped with full kitchens. The property has its own private beach, a rooftop patio, outdoor pool and free bike rentals. We visited our friends staying here to cook together, lounge on the beach and sip on rooftop cocktails. 

Getting Here 

The only ways to reach Caye Caulker is by ferry or airplane. Ferries and flights operate between Caye Caulker, San Pedro, Belize City and Chetumal, Mexico. 

San Pedro Belize Express.‍ ‍Ferries depart daily a frequent times between 6am and 5pm. We booked tickets online arriving in Caye Caulker from Chetumal, Mexico with a stop in San Pedro for customs. We departed from Caye Caulker, arriving in Belize City where the ferry operator shuttled us to the international airport.

Pro Tip.  Don’t worry about missing your scheduled ferry time. As long as tickets remain unused, they’re valid for up to three months at any time slot. 

Maya Island Air & Tropic Air.  The two main airlines with a fleet of puddle jumpers operating flights between Belize City, Caye Caulker, San Pedro and The Blue Hole. Flights are often fast and scenic but expensive. 

Getting Around 

There are very few cars on the island. Golf carts and bikes are the main form of transportation on the island, however it’s also easily walkable. 

On Foot. It takes 30 minutes on foot to travel between the caye’s furthest points, the airport and “The Split.” Wear flip flops or sandals to walk through large puddles and pools of water after rain. 

By Bike.  Bikes are an easy way to get around the island. Most hotels offer free bike though there are some rentals in town for around $10 USD per day. 

By Taxi (Golf Cart).  It takes 10 minutes by golf cart to travel between the island’s furthest points, the airport and “The Split.” Taxis only cost a few USD and are commonly available. 

Location Specifics 

Currency. The Belizean Dollar and US Dollar are used interchangeably across the island. At the time, the exchange rate was 1 USD to 2 BLZ, making conversions and transactions easy. 

Cash vs Card.  About half of the island is cash only, especially at smaller restaurants, bars and cafes. 

Language.  English is the most commonly spoken language. Spanish and Creole are frequently spoken between locals. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption due to risk of contamination. Only drink filtered or bottled water. 

Happy Hours.  Most bars have happy house from 4-7pm, perfect timing after retuning from a tour.

Dinner Hours.  Most restaurants and kitchens close between 9-10pm nightly. 

Toilets.  Like most places in Central American, the plumbing is not the greatest. Used toilet paper is not flushed but put in a bin next to the toilet. 

Reef Safe Sunblock.  Only use reef safe sunblock on the island or in the water to avoid harming the corals and marine life. 

Safety.  Caye Caulker is extremely safe! The locals are some of the friendliest and most down to earth people we have ever met. 

Drugs.  Locals commonly offer and sell drugs on the streets. They’re not pushy about it. Simply tell them no thank you if not interested. 

Elsewhere in Belize 

From snorkeling the Belize Barrier Reef to exploring ancient Maya cities hidden beneath the jungle canopy, discover another side of Belize beyond island life.

Maya Ruins Travel Guide: Jungles, Temples & Ancient Cities. Journey through ancient Maya cities, temples and archaeological wonders across Belize and Guatemala while exploring dramatic jungle landscapes.

For Next Time… 

This was our second trip to Belsize and we’re already dreaming of returning to this beautiful country to experience more it its culture, nature and history! When we return, we plan to visit some of the coastal cities and Mayan ruins. 

Hopkins.  A seaside village home to the Garifuna, the indigenous and Afro-Caribbean people of Belize with a rich culture. 

Placencia Peninsula.  A fishing village and beach town with white sand beaches.

Altun Ha.  A Mayan acropolis with pyramids, temples, ball courts and platforms on the mainland north of Belize City. 

Lamanai.  the ruins of a Mayan temple only accessible by boating deep into the jungle.

Antigua Guatemala Travel Guide: Acatenango, Colonial Charm & Local Cuisine

Antigua, Guatemala

Antigua is a picturesque and historic city with colonial era streets, a lively cultural scene and views of imposing volcanos. The city’s charm invites travelers to admire its Spanish colonial architecture and explore the remains of crumbling ruins. The bustling food scene and cafe culture make Antigua a wonderful place to taste traditional Guatemalan dishes and coffee. Vendors at artisan markets sell handmade crafts, colorful textiles and vibrant ceramics. Backpackers stay at local hostels and study at Spanish language schools. Overnight hikes lead to summit of nearby volcanos including the explosive, Volcán de Fuego. 

A Colonial Gem

Dating back nearly 500 years, Antigua is the Spanish colonial gem of Guatemala. Landmark sights, museums, ornate cathedrals and crumbling ruins built of stone, brick and plaster line Antigua’s grid of cobble stone streets. Warmly painted facades ranging in tones of red, ochre, yellow and cream alternate from building to building. Carved wooden doors often lead to lush shaded courtyards occupied by restaurants and cafes. Popular terraces boast views overlooking the clay tiled roofs, cathedral spires and imposing volcanos. 

Colonial Sights 

Santa Catalina Arch.  A famous yellow arch and clock tower stretching over the cobblestone street and framing Volcan de Agua. Come just after sunrise for the best view without groups of people.

Catedral de San José.  A cathedral built into the ruins of Catedral de Santiago. Its grand white facade with intricate plaster work, niches containing statues and large wooden doors spans the eastern width of Parque Central. 

Parque Central.  A park and plaza at the center of Antigua with benches, trees, gardens and a mermaid fountain with water spraying from her breasts. Locals come to relax with their families, vendors sell ice cream cones, guides offer walking tours and shoeshiners polish boots. It’s surrounded by restaurants, cafes, shops and colonial landmarks. 

La Iglesia de Merced.  A baroque style church with a yellow facade decorated in finely detailed white stucco ornamentation of grape vines and bunches. La Merced remains one of the few undamaged churches to survived from the centuries of earthquakes.

Iglesia del Carmen.  The crumbling ruins of a church held together by supports and scaffolding. It’s in accessible but can be admired from out front of it’s baroque facade. 

Tanque la Union.  A yellow arched pavilion and former colonial laundry well turned into a public fountain and park.

Cerro de la Cruz.  A hilltop hike to a viewpoint overlooking Antigua, the volcanos, mountains and valley. It’s popular at sunset or the early morning. The hike takes 10-15 minutes from the entrance guarded by police.

Crumbling Ruins 

Antigua is an architectural and archeological play ground with ruins of colonial buildings & churches destroyed during centuries of earthquakes. 

Catedral de Santiago.  The ruins of a massive cathedral characterized by its collapsed domed ceiling revealing the sky above. Many arches of the domed ceiling remain, held up by towering brick and stone columns, some of which are still embellished in delicate plaster moldings and flourishes.  

Iglesia La Recolección.  Destroyed beyond repair, a lone arch and set of stairs lead to this former church where only the walls remain standing. Within its sanctuary are toppled columns, massive pieces of brick masonry and plaster debris. The ruins can be explored and even climbed on, making for a photogenic picture. The remaining grounds encompass two courtyards with the ruins of a convent. 

Convento de San Capuchinas.  A former convent turned into an art museum. The grounds contain an interior courtyard, the ruins of a church, a butterfly garden and a circular building of nun’s cells complete with creepy nun mannequins. Exhibits display a collection religious artwork, pre-colonial artifacts, broken statues and stone masonry.

Convento Santa Clara.  The ruins of a church and convent with an ornate stone facade and crumbling cloisters surrounding a lush garden courtyard. The beautiful setting doubles as an event space for dreamy weddings.  

Iglesia de San Francisco.  A restored church with a partially collapsed facade and grounds with the crumbing ruins of a former monastery used by the friars. With in the grounds are lush gardens home to nesting green parrots and walkways leading to a second floor with views of the volcanos.

Iglesia San Jerónimo.  The ruins of a former church. All that remains is a grassy courtyard with a restored fountain and some accessible cloisters.  

Visit the Museums 

Museo de Arte Colonial.  A colonial art museum with galleries of religious paintings and artifacts. The museum is one of the few buildings not destroyed during the 1773 earthquake and featured on the 100 Quetzal bill.

Museo Nacional de Arte De Guatemala (MUNAG).  A Guatemalan art museum adjacent to the Parque Central. It includes paintings of the country’s landscapes, Mayan people, Guatemala’s declaration of independence, iron cannons, religious artwork and pre-Colombian artifacts.

Shop the Artisan & Local Markets

Parque la Merced.  Located outside of La Iglesia de Merced, this park is brimming with food and craft vendors. It’s one of the best places in the city to find every kind of Guatemalan street food or sweet imaginable. A fountain with fish reliefs relocated from Iglesia de San Francisco is located here.

Mercado Central.  A large market with a maze of aisles and booths under a patchwork tin roof. Locals come here for every day necessitates including produce, meats, flowers, shoes, clothes, electronics, appliances, toys, etc. There are restaurant stalls in a food court style pavilion. We brought home fresh purple corn tortillas from here. 

Mercado de Artesanias.  A beautiful handicrafts market with vendors selling colorful textiles, painted ceramics, wooden objects, jade jewelry and souvenirs. Come here to haggle and buy something locally made. We bought mugs, a tortilla blanket and an ornament. 

Mercado de Artesanias El Carmen.  A handicrafts market with aisles of vendors selling locally made items and souvenirs. It’s located next to the ruins of Iglesia El Carmen.

Volcanic Landscapes 

Antigua is flanked by dormant and actives volcanos providing a breathtaking landscape that creates a postcard style backdrop to the city’s colonial era streets. 

Volcán de Fuego.  Known as “The Volcano of Fire,” Fuego has been continuously erupting since 2002 with bursts of lava and clouds of ash spewing from its summit every 15 to 30 minutes. Views of its eruptions can be regularly seen from Antigua both day and night.

Volcán Acatenango.  The twin volcano to Fuego and tallest of the 3 surrounding Antigua. Many backpackers hike and camp overnight on its slopes to witness Fuego’s eruptions up close. 

Volcán de Agua.  A dormant cone shaped volcano to the south of Antigua. The best views of its summit are during the early morning before clouds settle in. 

Overnight on Acatenango

Volcán de Acatenango should be on every backpacker’s wish list! We joined a guided group to hike it’s slopes, camp overnight, witness unclose eruptions of Volcán de Fuego and watch a beautiful sunrise. It was one of the most physically exhausting things we’ve done but equally rewarding.

Hike to Basecamp 

The hike to basecamp started at Aldea la Soledad, a small village an hour outside Antigua. It marks the trail head of La Ruta de Acatenango. It brought us through different terrains and micro climates. We began our assent on a trail through farmland and steep dirt stairs. Climbing in altitude, we reached the cloud forest, a wooded area with tall moss covered trees, ferns, slippery trails and constant fog. The fog began to lift the further we hiked, completely clearing by the time we reached the pine forest. This forested area is covered pine trees, tall grasses and colorful wildflowers. The hike took 5 hours to reach basecamp.

Acatenango Basecamp

Basecamp was our home for the night and starting point for our hike to the crest of Fuego and the summit of Acatenango. We “slept” in a small A frame style shack, cuddled up to keep warm. The guides kept a small fire lit for warmth and to prepare camp meals. 

The Volcano of Fire

The campsite offered direct views of Volcán de Fuego and its frequent eruptions. During the day, the volcano billowed grey clouds of ash into the blue sky. At night, the red glow of lava rocketed through the air followed by a deep boom and crackling as it spilled down its slopes. Shockwaves from larger eruptions could even be felt in our chests! 

Hike To the Crest of Fuego 

The hike to the barren and black crest of Fuego began from basecamp, passing through pine forest to the saddle between both volcanos. Beyond that point, the ascent grew steep and unstable, with loose gravel and exposed roots. Clouds began to settle as the sun set, blocking views of the summit. After waiting in cold, wet and windy conditions without a clearing, we retuned to basecamp, stopping for brief rests as to glimpse ash, lava and embers pierce the clouds. 

Summit Sunrise

The hike to the summit of Acatenango began a 4am. The sun rose quickly afterwards, illuminating the cloud dappled sky and volcanic landscape in brilliant colors of purple, red and orange. Soon after, we began our descent and return to Antigua. 

Things to Keep in Mind

Hire A Guide.  Guides are not required to hike Acatenango but are helpful when navigating the route. We joined a guided group through a local operator on Viator.

Porters.  There are options to hire a porter to carry your equipment and gear. 

Vendors.  There are vendors along the trail before the pine forest selling snacks and beverages. 

Cash.  Bring plenty of cash for the additional hikes, snacks, beverages and tips 

Gear to Pack.  Bring your own gear or rent equipment from your guide.

• A 30 to 40 liter backpack 

• Hiking shoes/boots

• Warm clothes and layers (thermals, sweaters, scarves, gloves, hats, puffer, waterproof outer later)

• 2-3 liters of water

• Trail snacks 

• Sleeping bag and pillow

• Headlamp or flash light 

• Sunblock 

• Toilet paper 

• Hand sanitizer 

• Sunglasses

• A power bank 

Volcanic Farmland 

Antigua’s fertile volcanic valleys make it ideal for growing a range of crops including coffee, cacao and macadamia nut. We visited, Valhalla Farm, A sustainable and organic macadamia nut farm with free tours, tastings, a restaurant and spa. We came here for a full body macadamia nut oil massage after our overnight hike to Volcán de Fuego. It was so relaxing and therapeutic! The farm tour included a walk around the grounds to see the macadamia nut trees, learn how they’re harvested and processed. Afterwards, we sampled macadamia nut products like roasted nuts, chocolates, baked goods and oils. 

Cafe Culture

Antigua has a bustling cafe culture with many small cafes, coffee shops and breakfast spots brewing Guatemalan grown and roasted coffee beans. 

Bakery San Martin.  A cafe and bakery with fresh breads, cookies, and carafes of French pressed Guatemalan coffee. Come for the “Desayuno Antigueno,” which includes scrambled eggs with onion and tomato, breads, fried sweet plantains, refried beans and tortilla with cheese. 

El Gran Cafe.  A small coffee shop for Guatemalan coffee and light pastries. We brought home two bags of whole beans. 

12 Onzas.  A cafe for Guatemalan pour over coffee, light pastries and classic breakfast dishes. 

Places to Eat

We quickly learned that Antigua has a thriving food scene with restaurants serving traditional and contemporary Guatemalan dishes, authentic street food and vegan or vegetarian options. Most restaurants in Antigua have a garden courtyard, rooftop or terrace and interior dining room. 

Los Tres Tiempos.  A colorfully decorated restaurant with a lush outdoor terrace and menu including traditional brunch dishes. Try the sweet corn pancakes covered in a creamed corn sauce, the chilaquiles with white & blue corn chips and red & green sauce or the fruit platter with pineapple, papaya and water melon. 

27 Adentro.  A restaurant with a modern take on Guatemalan and Latin dishes. It has a garden courtyard and rooftop with views of Volcán de Fuego. We saw a large eruption with lava from here. There are many vegetation options including pepián, sopa de maíz, tostone cups and sangria. 

La Fonda Calle Real.  Around lunch time, the smell of pan fired masa wafting from the store front comal invites passersby in. The romantic interior has an open air courtyard with a canopy of flowering vines. The menu consists of traditional Guatemalan dishes. We tried the vegetarian pepián, chile relleno and plantains con mole. 

Saberico.  A vegetarian friendly garden restaurant with a sprawling outdoor patio and menu of contemporary Guatemalan dishes. We ordered the beet & cabbage tostadas, chile relleno and kombucha cocktails.

Antojito Salvadoreño.  An unofficial restaurant specializing in pupusas. Call ahead to order and wait outside of the Condominio Arcadas for pick up. We ordered cheese and bean pupusas with a canoa de platano. 

Frida’s.  A Mexican style restaurant themed after Frida Kahlo with portraits of the artist pictured throughout. The menu specializes in tacos and margaritas. We tried the veggie tacos, crispy broccoli in poblano mole and seitan al pastor tacos with pineapple. For drinks, the spicy mezcal margarita and hibiscus mezcal margarita. 

El Adobe.  The eye-catching entry with a display of colorfully painted Guatemalan wooden masks invites passersby in for a look at the menu. The restaurant serves traditional Guatemalan and Mayan inspired dishes. We ordered the blue corn tortillas with cheese and salsa, fried black beans and a whole fried fish called Mojarra. 

Places to Drink

Together with a brewery, speakeasy, dive and rooftop bar, there is no shortage of places to find a drink in Antigua. 

Antigua Brewing Company.  A brewery with local beers and city views from their terrace. We sampled a flight of beers. Two favorites are the Fuego IPA, a very hoppy brew, and the Canchona Blonde Ale, a refreshing and slightly nutty ale.

Ulew.  A dimly lit speakeasy with a stone and brick interior located behind a phone booth in the Antigua Brewing Company. Mixologists make drinks based on your flavor preference. We ordered spicy but balanced tiki style drinks that came out in a volcano and wave mug.

Cafe No Se.  A dive bar for beer and mezcal. The menu is handwritten on cardboard, candles dripping in wax light the interior and the walls are covered in signatures and stickers. We drank and played chess at a table in the corner. 

Adra Hostel.  Come to their energetic courtyard and rooftop for local beers, cocktails and live DJ. 

Guatemalan Cuisine

There are so many authentic dishes to try when visiting Antigua. Some of our favorites include traditional ingredients like corn masa and plantain.  

• Pupusas.  A griddle fried masa patty filled with beans and cheese or meat. 

• Chile Relleno.  A stuffed poblano pepper that’s been breaded and deep fried. It common to be stuffed with cheese or rice, beans and vegetables.  

• Pepián.  A spiced stew made with a base or green or red tomatoes. I can be vegetable or meat based. 

• Sopa de Maíz.  A creamy corn soup. 

• Tostones.  Twice fried and smashed green plantains, often served with a salsa. 

• Purple Corn Masa.  Purple corn used to make any corn based dish like tortillas or pupusas. 

• Platano con Mole.  A sweet plantain that’s been fried and covered in a savory sweet mole sauce. 

• Canoa de Platano.  A whole sweet plantain that’s been deep fried, cut open like a canoe and filled with a sweet cream sauce. 

• Mojarra.  A popular Central American fish. It’s commonly served whole fried with lime. 

• Gallo.  A lager and the beer of choice across Guatemala, recognizable by it label picturing a rooster. 

• Nispero.  Popular at fruit stands and in dishes at restaurants. Small orange fruits with a citrus peachy flavor, a thin skin and pit. Try them fresh, jammed, canned or in a sauce. 

Where to Stay 

Antigua is a large backpacker destination with apartment rentals and hostels throughout the city. We stayed in a centrally located Airbnb at the El Solar Apartments. The apartment was a renovated ruin with exposed brick, stone walls, wooden beams and artwork of the city. 

Getting Around 

Guatemala City to Antigua.  Book a transfer between Guatemala City and Antigua with a reputable local agency like Due South Travels. They safely shuttled us between the airport and our stay in Antigua during late night hours.  

On Foot.  Antigua is a very walkable city. Exploring it on foot is the best way to see the colonial sights, crumbing ruins and volcanic views. 

By Taxi.  Yellow cabs and Ubers are readily in Antigua. They’re an affordable way of reaching nearby locations. Always confirm the price and destination before getting into the taxi. 

Location Specifics

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not drinkable. Only drink bottled or filtered water.

Cash vs Card. Many businesses are cash only. Carry USD to exchange or the local Quetzal.

Safety.  We found the Antigua to be very safe. The locals tend to be welcoming and friendly. 

Language.  Spanish is widely spoken, many people speak English and some speak Mayan.

UV Protection.  Wear sunblock. The higher altitude makes the sun’s UV stronger.

Elsewhere in Guatemala 

From volcanic lakes to ancient Maya cities, continue exploring Guatemala's diverse landscapes and cultural heritage.

Lake Atitlán Travel Guide: Villages, Volcanoes & Mayan Culture. Navigate between Lake Atitlán's lakeside villages where volcanic landscapes and living Mayan culture shape one of Guatemala's most remarkable destinations.

Maya Ruins Travel Guide: Jungles, Temples & Ancient Cities.‍ ‍Journey through ancient Maya cities, temples and archaeological wonders across Belize and Guatemala while exploring dramatic jungle landscapes.

For Next Time… 

• Flores, Guatemala.  A picturesque island city on Lago Petén Itzá known for it’s colorful architecture and proximity to Mayan ruins.

• Monterrico.  A beach town along Guatemala’s Pacific Coast known for its black sand beaches and annual sea turtle migrations.

• El Paredón.  A sleepy surf town along Guatemala’s Pacific Coast with black sand beaches and great year round surf conditions.