Montgomery St. Peter 4/24/26 Montgomery St. Peter 4/24/26

Caribbean Curaçao

Curaçao is a Dutch Caribbean Island with vibrantly painted buildings, musical nightlife, aquamarine shorelines, rugged seaside cliffs and dry forests.

The Dutch Caribbean

Curaçao is a Dutch Caribbean Island with vibrantly painted buildings, musical nightlife, aquamarine shorelines, rugged seaside cliffs and dry forests home to many species of cacti, lizards & tropical birds.

Willemstad

Willemstad, the picturesque capital of Curaçao, is renowned for its colorful Dutch style architecture and vibrant charm. Its central neighborhoods, Punda, Otrobanda and Pietermaai define the city’s character, offering a mix of local culture, historic landmarks, markets, artificial beaches and boutique stays. Live music echos from restaurants and bars, creating an inviting atmosphere for both lively outings and relaxed evenings on outdoor patios.

Punda Neighborhood

Punda is the historic center of Willemstad. It’s a mostly pedestrian neighborhood popular for its colorful colonial architecture, historic sights, local markets, souvenir shops, brand name stores, cocktail bars and restaurants with outdoor dining.

Handelsakade. An iconic waterfront skyline comprised of Dutch colonial buildings painted in vibrant colors with minimal ornamentation and steep tiled roofs. Shops, restaurants and bars line the street level. Visit the Iguana Cafe for a glass of wine at sunset!

Queen Emma Pontoon Bridge. A swinging wooden pedestrian bridge that connects both sides of the St. Anna Bay. It opens several times daily to let ships pass in and out of the harbor. It’s lit up in a colorful arches reminiscent of an amusement park boardwalk at night.

Queen Wilhelmina Park. A plaza with public artwork, photo moments, landmark buildings and touristy restaurants serving island food and tropical cocktails.

Punda Vibes. A bustling festival held in Queen Wilhelmina Park with local artists, live music, street performers and a firework show. It’s held every Thursday from 6-10pm.

De Buren. A touristy restaurant in Queen Wilhelmina Park offering Dutch snacks like fried fish kibbling and smoked gouda bitterballen. Order a blue lagoon made from the island’s famed rum, Blue Curaçao.

Punda Markets. Punda is home to multiple markets offering local cuisine, fresh produce and souvenirs.

Plasa Bieu Market. A food hall with several kitchens preparing traditional Curaçaoan dishes and meals. By lunchtime, the market’s colorful picnic tables are packed with locals and travelers looking for an authentic and affordable meal. The savory smells of dishes like okra soup, iguana stew, roasted goat, fried mahi mahi and sweet plantains waft through the air.
Floating Market. A waterfront market as colorful as the city’s buildings with merchants selling fresh seafood and tropical produce. Vendors historically dock along the pier and unload their goods including red snapper, pineapple, papaya, plantain, watermelon, banana, oranges, coconut, limes, hot peppers and more.
The New Market. A circular concrete pavilion with tables of vendors selling produce, spices, herbal remedies, souvenirs and clothes.

Otrobanda Neighborhood

Otrobanda is a historic neighborhood and Arts District with colorful buildings, large murals, alleyway exhibits, painted stairs and historical markers. It feels more local with less tourists than other areas in Willemstad while offering some of the best views of Handelsakade from the St Anna Bay.

Rif Fort. A former colonial fort guarding the entrance to the harbor made from coral brick and stone walls. It’s been converted into a mall with boardwalks, seaside overlooks and a central courtyard with restaurants and shops.

Curaçao Rif Mangrove Park. A protected mangrove forest in the center of Willemstad with a floating boardwalk, a lookout tower, educational signs and kayak rentals. The park is teeming with biodiversity. We spotted eels, puffer fish, barracuda, hermit crabs, upside-down jellyfish, yellow headed parquets, butterflies and varying species of fish and birds.

Places to Eat & Drink

Swinging Old Lady. A brewery overlooking the harbor and skyline with a mix of local and imported beers. We shared a flight while watching the Queen Emma Pontoon Bridge open and close for passing ships. Try the Waka Waka, an IPA made with Curaçao orange peels.
Harbor Restaurant Curaçao. A hotel restaurant with views of the St Anna Bay and Handelsakade. Come here for classic breakfast dishes like omelettes, fresh fruit & Poffertjes (mini Dutch pancakes).
Maria’s Kitchen. A breakfast and brunch spot offering baked goofs, egg dishes and fresh juices. It’s located inside of a converted colonial home.

Kurá Hulanda Village

Kurá Hulanda is a semi-hidden village with in the Otrobanda neighborhood. Its cobble stone alleyways and plazas are surrounded by restored colonial buildings with colorful facades, tropical greenery, vibrant murals and Afro Caribbean statues. It’s home to locals, expats, boutique shops, hotels and restaurants. Musicians perform in outdoor patios under the soft glow of twinkle lights each night, creating a relaxing and romantic atmosphere.

Saturday Morning Market. Local vendors set up booths in the village’s plazas and alleyways selling crafts, handmade items, souvenirs and edible goods each Saturday morning. We bought scotch bonnet pepper chili oil and freshly made stroopwafels.

Kurá Hulanda Museum. A history museum with exhibits about the brutality of transatlantic slave trade and the enslaved people brought to Curaçao from Western Africa. It’s an extremely well organized museum with multiple exhibits on pre-colonial African cultures, the atrocities and horrific accounts of slavery, the abolitionist and equal rights movements in the US. Exhibits include African artifacts, iron shackles, nautical maps, newspaper clippings, bills of sale from slave auctions. It’s a very sobering museum and one that can’t be overlooked. You need a minimum of 1 hour to fully explore the museum and learn about the history.

Lionfish Caribbean. A restaurant serving dishes made from invasive lion fish, like ceviche, fish & chips and tacos. The fish and chips is served with portions of the spines and fins still attached. Uncooked spines and fins are used to create jewelry. It’s only open for lunch.

Rustica. An open air restaurant with delicious cocktails, fresh coconuts and a menu of dishes local to Curaçao. We shared a spread of dishes including:

Baklou. A dish made from stewed cod, polenta and sweet plantain
Banana. A mash of boiled green and sweet plantain mixed with chimichuri, coconut milk and okra
Pampuna. A pumpkin and rum raisin pancake with frozen ponche de creme
Mosa Nena. A cocktail made from rum, local tamarind and star anise
Krioyo Ku Orguyo. A cocktail made oregano punch with kiwi, elderflower and basil

Flores. A restaurant with a large romantic outdoor patio. They have music until 10pm and stay open even later. Stop in for a night cap after a day of beaching and exploring the island.

Pietermaai Neighborhood

A neighborhood east of Punda with Dutch style row houses, vibrantly painted buildings, small shops, boutique hotels, small beachfront resorts, cafes, restaurants and bars. Come here during the evenings, especially from Thursday to Saturday for the night life and live music.

Nieuwestraat. A street known for nightlife with live music and several restaurants and bars that seamlessly spill out onto the street. This was a favorite area to go out!

Places to Eat & Drink

Mundo Bizarro. A bustling two floor cocktail bar with a live brass band. On Thursday nights, locals and tourists fill the bar and its ally as the band and bartenders fuel the ambiance. On Saturday night, the scene is tamer with experienced salsa dancers taking to the floor and showing off their moves.
Tiki Loco. A cocktail bar located along a lively section of Nieuwestraat serving tropical drinks and island bites. Tiki torches and live music provide an ambient setting in the outdoor patio.
Blues Bar Restaurant. An ocean view restaurant at Avila Beach Hotel serving Caribbean cuisine. Try the tropical tuna tartare with avocado and mango, the whole fried red snapper, conch burger, funchi fries and piña colada ice cream.
Van Gogh Specialty Coffee & City Roastery. A coffee shop in a blue painted dutch colonial house. Order the pumpkin pastechi,a pastry similar to baked empanada, oregano kombucha and house roasted coffee.

Westpunt

Westpunt is the northwestern area of Curaçao. It’s defined by its nature including limestone cliffs, white sand beaches, turquoise waters, snorkeling spots & hiking trails.

Christoffel Mountain Trail. A hike to the summit of Christoffel Mountain, the tallest natural point on Curaçao, standing at 1,220ft above sea level. The trail leads through dry forest past all manner of prickly and spiky bushes and cacti. Watch for wildlife like whiptail blue lizards, green parquets, orange breasted Venezuelan troupials and yellow orioles. The summit views are spectacular with sweeping views of the island’s dry forest and turquoise coastline.

Pro Tip. Wear proper hiking shoes. Sections of the trail are steep and eroded with jagged rocks and loose gravel.

Good to Know. Due to extreme heat, the trail is only accessible before 10am. Purchase tickets from the visitor center before 7am. It takes an hour to reach the summit and another hour to descend.

Shete Boka National Park. A coastal park where large waves crash into limestone cliffs, bays and caves. A series of nature trails leads through the park.

Boka Tabla. A half submerged coastal cave where you can watch waves crash from both an observation deck above and within the cave itself.
Boka Kalki. A limestone cliff and inlet where powerful waves crash dramatically, sending sprays of water through small blowholes along its eastern side.
Boka Pistol. A horseshoe shaped cliff that forcefully blasts seawater back into the ocean as large waves crash against it. A nature trail leads here from Boka Kalki.

Hato Caves. A limestone cave with stalactites, stalagmites and 1,500 year old petroglyphs carved by indigenous peoples. The caves were used as a hideaway by enslaved people that escaped the plantations. A nature trail continues outside of the cave, passing cacti, coral cliffs and small caves with petroglyphs.

Good to Know. The cave can only be toured with a guide. Tours leave on the hour when operating. It’s located near the airport making it easy to visit before flying out.

Salt Lake Willibrodus. A salt lake home to wild flamingos with a roadside observation deck. We spotted a small group over 100ft away and watch another group fly off in the distance.

Pro Tip. Bring binoculars or a long range lens for better views of the birds.

Curaçao Beaches

Most beaches are located along the south shore of Curaçao, nestled between limestone cliffs or at resorts. We visited several in Westpunt and around Willemstad.

Playa Forti. A cliffside beach famed for cliff jumping! The restaurant on the cliff overlooking the beach is the best location to jump. Depending on the tide, the distance is 40-45ft above the water.

Pro Tip. To minimize the risk of injury, position yourself perfectly vertical like pencil before hitting the water!

Playa Kalki. A narrow beach on the island’s far north shore with calm aquamarine waters ideal for swimming. Floating platforms and rentable lounges offer places to relax. There is a restaurant, bar and dive shop on the beach and small resort on the cliff above it.

Playa Grandi. A popular beach to snorkel with sea turtles attracted by local fishermen’s chum. Visit before 8am when it’s least busy and the water is clear. Choose a different beach to swim and lounge at.

Grote Knip. A popular white sand beach with clear turquoise waters perfect for swimming, snorkeling and cliff jumping from a 20 foot ledge. Vendors rent umbrellas, lounges and snorkel gear. The southern cliff is the best place to spot marine life like parrotfish, pufferfish and barracuda. Food truck vendors sell local fritters and smoothies in the parking lot.

Kleine Knip. A quiet and smaller golden sand beach popular with locals. It’s located less than 5 minutes south of Grote Knip.

Mambo Beach. A large artificial beach with turquoise waters, white sand shores, palm trees, chair and umbrella rentals and a multi level board walk with restaurants, bars, resorts, shops and clubs. We spent an afternoon here lounging on the beach and drinking cocktails from two of the beachfront bars, Chill Beach Bar & Grill and Hemingway. It’s located 10 minutes south of Willemstad.

Blauwbaai (Blue Bay Beach). An artificial beach at the Blue Bay Resort with a palm lined shore and high end beachfront restaurant, Brass Boer. There is a fee to access to beach and use its amenities. It’s located 20 minutes north of Willemstad.

Beach Restaurants

Jaanchie Restaurant. A long running restaurant near Playa Grandi with traditional stewed meats like iguana, goat, beef, fish and shrimp. Stews are served with rice & beans and fried plantains. Order the oregano punch!

Restaurant Playa Forti. A restaurant built on the site of an old Dutch fort overlooking Playa Forti. Try the grilled conch, fried plantains and veggie Keshi Yena, a local dish made with vegetables covered in a layer of cheese.

Brass Boer. A high end restaurant at the Blue Bay Beach Resort offering a 6 course tasting menu and wine parings. Our menu included a range of vegetarian and pescatarian dishes with Dutch, Caribbean and Japanese influences. Two of our favorites were the filet of red snapper with pickled veggies and the roasted cabbage with a creamy orange sauce and crumbled pistachio. Come hungry and expect the meal to last longer than 3 hours.

Curaçao Cuisine

Stews. Iguana, goat, beef, fish and okra stews are common local dishes.
Seafood. Conch, fried red snapper, mahi mahi and garlic shrimp are all popular.
Pastechi. A stuffed savory pastry similar to an Empanada made from flaky dough.
Funchi. Fried corn dough similar to polenta. It’s often served like French fries.
Plantains. A type of savory green banana served on its own or as an ingredient cooked into other dishes.
Keshi Yena. A dish made with a base of protein and covered in a layer of cheese.
Poffertjes. Dutch style mini pancakes often served with fruit at breakfast,
Bitterballen. Deep fried cheese balls. It’s a common Dutch pub dish or street food served on some menus.
Kibbling. Deep fried pieces of fish. It’s a common Dutch pub dish or street food served on some menus.
Oregano Juice. A herbal juice made with pressed oregano leaves. It’s herbal, semi-sweet and refreshing.
Brasa. A local beer with a similar taste to Corona but slightly citric.
Blue Lagoon. A classic cocktail made with Blue Curacao, vodka and lemonade.

Where to Stay

Kurá Hulanda Townhouse. A one bedroom apartment in the middle of the Kurá Hulanda Village. We stayed here for 4 nights while exploring Willemstad and elsewhere across the island. Book on Airbnb.

Location Specifics

Language. Most people speak English however Dutch and Papiamento (a creole language based on Spanish and Portuguese) are most commonly spoken.

Cash vs Card. Most places accept credit cards but having some cash is important. The Antillean Guilder & the US Dollar are both used on the island.

Getting Around: Willemstad is easily walkable while the best way to get around the island is by car.

Water Shoes. Wear water shoes at all beaches to avoid discomfort from jagged washed up coral.

Sun Protection. Curaçao is a desert island in the tropics! Wear sunblock to avoid the harmful UV.

For Next Time…

Curaçao is part of the ABC island chain, including Aruba and Bonaire. We plan to visit the later to explore their beaches, marine parks and Dutch colonial buildings.

Montgomery St. Peter 4/24/26 Montgomery St. Peter 4/24/26

Cartagena, Colombia

Cartagena is a romantic destination, often referred to as “The Gem of the Caribbean” for its seaside location, walled city and colonial architecture.

The Gem of the Caribbean

Cartagena is a romantic destination, often referred to as “The Gem of the Caribbean” for its seaside location, walled city and colonial architecture. The city exudes Colombian culture, history and cuisine. Start each day with a Colombian coffee, spend time wandering the streets of colorful colonial architecture, enjoy leisurely strolls along the wall at sunset, take a beach getaway to an offshore island, eat street food in the plazas and dine to live music.

The Walled City

The old town of Cartagena is surrounded by a thick stone and coral brick wall designed to protect the city from pirates and attacks during the colonial era. It is lined with guard towers, lookouts and cannons. From inside, there are numerous ramps and staircases with access to the wall’s upper level and walkways. Along the walkways are city and sea views. Couples often come here to hideaway in the nooks, walk hand in hand and watch the sunset.

Explore the Barrios

Cartagena is organized by picturesque barrios with vibrant plazas, colonial buildings, cathedrals, colorfully painted homes and lush streets.

El Centro. The neighborhood at the center of the Walled City with many historic sights, large plazas, restaurants and hotels. The buildings here are painted golden orange or white with exposed coral bricks, wooden balconies and window banisters.

San Diego. The most vibrant neighborhood within the Walled City with colorfully painted buildings, lush flowering vines, streets draped in floral canopies, doors adorned with elaborate knockers and lively plazas.

Getsemani. An artists neighborhood with murals, graffiti, galleries, colorful architecture and streets draped with banderas and umbrellas. There are many cafes, restaurants, bars, hostels and boutique hotels here.

Bocagrande. A beachside neighborhood with tall skyscrapers, hotels and residential towers. Locals jokingly refer to it as Miami. Its home to Cartagena’s most popular and convenient beach, Playa Boca Grande.

See the Sights

Catedral Santa Catalina de Alejandria. An iconic yellow and peach painted cathedral recognizable by its ornate neoclassical spire. Its located in the heart of El Centro, visible from the streets, rooftops and walls surrounding the colonial old town.

Plaza Santa Domingo. A large plaza in El Centro with outdoor dining, street vendors selling jewelry, musicians performing, colonial architecture, the Iglesia de San Pedro Claver and a Botero sculpture of a laying naked woman.

Iglesia de San Pedro Claver. A church with a coral brick and stone facade built in the early 1,600s. It contains an archeological museum with the tomb of the saint, pre-Columbian, religious, African and Caribbean artifacts.

Plaza de San Diego. A small but very lively plaza located in San Diego. It’s surrounded by restaurants that spill into the street, artists, musicians, performers and street food vendors. The plaza is recognizable by the church that resembles a large ginger bread house.

Heredia Theatre. A colonial era theater made from pink stone and accented with yellow painted ornamentation.

Puerta del Reloj. The yellow clock tower and gate along the wall marking the entrance to the old town. The adjacent plaza is lined with vendors selling books, fresh juice, candy and offering tours.

Plaza de la Aduana. A large plaza inside the walled city accessible through the Puerta del Reloj. Its a popular place to buy fresh fruit juice and take a photo with a Palenqueras, women wearing colorful dresses and tropical fruit bowls on their head.

Centenario Park. A park located outside the old town across from the Puerta del Reloj. Come here to spot wildlife including sloths, monkeys and parrots living in the trees.

Pier Los Pegasos. Located just outside the Puerto del Reloj are two Pegasus statues along the water front pier. Many boat tours to the coastal islands depart from and return here.

Plaza de Bolívar. A lush tree covered plaza in the center of the walled city with a bronze statue of Simon Bolívar. Artists frequently sell paintings and crafts here.

Plaza Fernandes de Madrid. A lush plaza located between El Centro and San Diego in the walled city. It’s sounded by colorful colonial architecture, restaurants, bars and artists.

Las Bóvedas. A series of shops built into a yellow arched section of the old town’s wall formerly used as prison cells. The vendors sell various souvenirs including baskets, hammocks, artwork, coffee, jewelry and cigars.

Calle de San Juan. A street in Getsemani with murals and galleries selling colorful paintings depicting the walled city, Botero style artwork, portraits of Colombian women and tropical Caribbean scenes.

Plaza de la Trinidad. A small plaza located in Getsemani surrounded by restaurants and centered on a large golden yellow church.

Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas. A military super fortress built during the 1600’s with maze-like tunnels, barracks, cannons, chambers and lookouts over the sea and city. The tunnels cut through different sections of the fortress and descend deep into its interior.

Museo Naval Del Caribe. A Caribbean and Colombian naval history museum with exhibits ranging from colonial to modern day. There are Spanish cannons, naval outfits, nautical maps, model fortresses and replica ships on display. The exhibits include interactive features like a pirate ship, submarine, battleship, speed boat and helicopter.

Museo del Oro Zenu. A small but very well curated museum with pre-Colombia artifacts including hundreds of gold pieces, musical instruments, statuettes and pottery. The artifacts and exhibits focus on the indigenous Zenu people and their connection to the land, sea, sky and animals that inhabit them. It’s free to enter.

Las Playas

City vs Island Beaches. Island beaches are located off the coast of Cartagena and are often much cleaner, prettier with less aggressive vendors than the city beaches. Boats depart from Playa Boca Grande and Pier Los Pegasos between 8-11am to ferry passengers to the idyllic Rosario Islands.

Rosario Islands National Park. An archipelago of over 30 tiny islands reachable by boat 1 hour from Cartagena. Many small hotels and resorts are located here, a convenance for overnight guests.

Isla Grande. A large island in the Rosario Islands National Parkwith hotels, beaches and snorkeling spots.

Bora Bora Beach Club. A beach club on Isla Grande with a small beach, beach beds, massages, cocktails and lunch including crab and whole grilled fish. It’s a relaxing way to enjoy the Caribbean outside of the city.

Colombian Cuisine

Colombian Caribbean Dishes. Popular dishes made with Colombia and Caribbean ingredients include fried fish, ceviche, coconut rice and patacones.

Fried Fish. Served whole or filleted but fried to perfection. Red Snapper and Sea Bass are commonly served
Colombian Ceviche. Raw seafood cooked in citrus often with coconut milk, red onion and avocado then served with plantain chips.
Coconut Rice. White or brown rice cooked with coconut milk. It’s a local side to any entree.
Patacones. Fried green plantain that’s been flatten and re-fried.

Street Food. Vendors can be found in plazas and along streets preparing and selling various types of street food across Cartagena for extremely affordable prices.

Arepa de Huevo. A masa arepa that’s been cooked, cut open, an egg cracked inside and re-fried. Watch for vendors with pots of oil sitting atop a coal burning stove. Dora’s located in Plaza San Diego is the place to go.
Pan de Bono. Watch for vendors with glass cabinets on carts filled with cheese filled breads and rolls.
Fresh Juice. Watch for vendors with citrus carts serving ladles of orange and lime juice from iced filled tanks.
Fresh Fruit. Watch for vendors with wooden carts selling colorful cups of sliced pineapple, mango, water melon, papaya and whole coconuts.

Cook like a Colombian

Take a cooking class and learn how to cook like a Colombian. The Life of Good Hostel in Getsemani offers classes on their roof top kitchen. Instructed by Chef Omar, we prepared multiple Colombian dishes to the tune of his Shakira playlist. Together, we sliced green plantains to make patacones, milled corn to make stuffed arepas, diced veggies to make hogao (sofrito) and sautéed shrimp in a garlic wine sauce.

Places to Eat & Drink

Cafe Del Mar. One of two restaurants located on the wall with live music, city views and sunset overlooking the Caribbean. Come for the ceviche, causas, cocktails.

Baluarte de San Francisco Javier. The second of two restaurants located on the wall with live music, city views and sunset overlooking the Caribbean. Come for the Caribbean tapas and cocktails.

Celele. A contemporary Colombian restaurant located in a restored blue colonial home. The menu specializes in creative dishes that involve fermented ingredients, edible flowers and local seafood. Try the crab arepa, Caribbean flower salad, corn bun and squid with plantain dumplings in mussel sauce.

Lobo de Mar. A Colombian tapas restaurant built between two coral brick walls in a warmly lit space. Try Try the flames cheese arepa salad and seared sesame tuna on pumpkin puree.

Juan del Mar. A higher end restaurant with an open air interior in Plaza San Diego serving elevated Colombian dishes. Visit on during a weekend for live music.

Townhouse Rooftop. A hotel rooftop in the middle of the old town with views of the clay tiled roofs and spires. Stop by for a cocktail at sunset.

Amasa Café. A cafe with Colombian coffee, pastries, churro French toast, arepas and egg dishes.

Al Alma. A breakfast or brunch spot with egg dishes, pancakes and French toast. Try the sweet corn waffles and arepa with an egg.

Coffee at Libertario. A coffee shop in Getsemani with well brewed Colombian coffee. Walk up and take a seat at the street front counter.

Pan de Queso. A small bakery in El Centro with pastries and pan de bono.

Percimon. A paletas shop with fruit and chocolate favors and specialty toppings in Plaza San Diego. Sit on their second floor balcony overlooking the plaza.

Location Specifics

Language. Spanish is widely spoken. Knowing a little Spanish goes a long way.

Safety. Cartagena is extremely safe. Take normal precautions.

Alcohol. There are no alcohol sales during elections. This is strictly enforced.

Drugs. People will frequently try to sell you cocaine on the street.

Cash vs Card. Credit card is widely accepted however carrying cash is important for purchasing street food, providing tips and small purchases.

Tipping. 10% tipping is normal.

Getting Around

By Uber. Ubers are available and cost around 30,000 COL between the Walled City and the airport.

On Foot. The walled city is extremely walkable and by far the best way to explore the city’s historic streets and wall.

Horse Drawn Carriage. See the walled city by horse and carriage on a romantic tour. Carriage drivers are widely available during the late afternoon through evening. Prices are fixed by the length of time. Most horses were healthy and well taken care of when we visited.

For Next Time…

Having visited Cartagena twice in the past few years, we’re certain to return to this charming and romantic city! For next time, we plan to island hop across the Rosario Islands. Elsewhere in Colombia, we’re have our sights on visiting Medellín and Cali.

Montgomery St. Peter 4/13/26 Montgomery St. Peter 4/13/26

Southwestern Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico’s southwestern region is home to some of the island’s most diverse landscapes, unspoiled beaches, historic pueblos and cultural experiences.

Southwestern Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico’s southwestern region is home to some of the island’s most diverse landscapes and historic pueblos. The Caribbean coast features unspoiled beaches, protected marine reserves, a bioluminescent bay and pink salt flats. Hiking trails meander through the dry forest while scenic mountain roads reveal sweeping panoramic views of the region’s lush terrain. Historic mountain towns and vibrant pueblos provide rich cultural experiences and culinary delights. During adventures to the region, we’ve explored Cabo Rojo, San Germán, Lajas, Yauco and Guánica.

Cabo Rojo

Cabo Rojo is a picturesque corner of the island with pink salt flats, Caribbean beaches and turquoise waters.

Cabo Rojo Salt Flats

The Cabo Rojo Salt Flats are famed for their bright pink and light blue hued salt ponds. Stop into the Visitor Center to learn about the salt flats indigenous beginnings, current uses and the surrounding ecosystem. Climb the 3 story tall Observation Tower for views overlooking the salt flats and their multihued ponds. Continue further down the road for access to the salt flats and the narrow pathways separating the ponds.

Good to Know. Read recent reviews to gauge the current level of pinkness and accessibility.

Vamos a la Playa

Cabo Rojo is home to some of Puerto Rico’s most pristine beaches and scenic coves. We’ve beach hopped along the coast on previous visits to the region.

Playa El Combate. A lengthy tan sand beach with swimmable aquamarine waters and a shaded tree line near the town of El Combate. The water’s higher salinity, due to nearby salt flats, makes floating effortless in the calm waters. The section closest to town tends to be livelier while the southern half provides a quiet and scenic escape. The town is home to small hotels, restaurants and bars making it a popular getaway for locals and families.

Pro Tip. Arrive before 9am to find free parking along the roadside.

Buyé Beach. An extremely popular beach with a narrow white sand shore, turquoise hued cove and shaded tree line. Locals gather for sunny beach days as groups of jet skiers race off shore. Music fills the air as speakers blast Bad Bunny and Reggaetón. The lively shoreline is lined with colorful cottages and beach kiosks serving Puerto Rican cuisine alongside tropical cocktails and local beers. Visit the Sunset Shack for mojitos!

Pro Tip. Arrive before 9am to find free parking along the roadside or pay $10 at the lot leading to the beach.

Playa Sucia. A crescent shaped beach covered in soft white sand hugging a turquoise bay. The beach overlooks distant cliffs and the Faro Los Morrillos Lighthouse. It’s a popular beach despite being semi-remote. Bring your own food, snacks and water for the day as there are no nearby kiosks or vendors.

Pro Tip. Like the other beaches, arrive early to find parking and a shaded spot under the tree line.

Nature Trails & Sights

There are a few nature trails that weave through the salt flats and desert terrain surrounding the ponds. We spent about two hours hiking through them and exploring the area. When coming here, wear sun protection, bring a sturdy umbrella and plenty of water.

Observation Tower Loop. A trail leading through the dry forest from the visitor center to an observation tower overlooking a large salt pond.

Ruins Trail. A trail that cuts across two large salt ponds, past a piles of salt and smaller ponds. The trail ends at the sea and connects to the Observation Tower Loop and Bikes Trail.

Bikes Trail. A lengthy trail that weaves throughout the salt flats and along Playa El Combate. It can be hiked but is frequently used by mountain bikers.

Faro Los Morrillos Lighthouse. A cliffside lighthouse with panoramic views of the Caribbean Sea. Nature trails lead from The Cabo Rojo Salt Flats and Playa Sucia across the peninsula, rock formations and steep jagged cliffs.

Places to Eat & Drink

Buena Vibra. A restaurant with innovative Caribbean dishes and seafood like a ceviche filled pineapple, mahi mahi stuffed avocados and coconut encrusted grouper. It’s one of the best restaurants we’ve dined at on the island! Meals are pricy but worth every dollar.

San Germán Pueblo

San Germán Pueblo is a charming mountain town deeply rooted in Puerto Rican culture and history. Its origins date back nearly 500 years to the early Spanish colonial period, time of French corsairs and indigenous rebellions. The historic center is defined by red brick and cobblestone streets, treelined and manicured plazas, colorfully painted and stylized buildings. It’s home to local residences, municipal buildings, churches, museums and restaurants.

Plaza San Germán. A historic plaza at the center of San Germán Pueblo. It’s surrounded by colonial era and landmark buildings including the town hall, theater and church.

Plaza Santo Domingo. A tree lined and brick paved plaza with green benches, bronze busts and overhanging strings twinkle lights. It’s flanked by historic wooden homes, colorful buildings and the Porta Coeli.

El Convento de Santo Domingo de Porta Coeli. A 400+ year old church converted into a museum of religious artwork. It features paintings and wooden artifacts like hand carved statues, the stations of the cross and a large reredos. It overlooks the Plaza Santo Domingo.

Casa Morales. A landmark house with ornamental designs, a wrap around porch and wooden shutters. It’s a central feature of the Plaza Santo Domingo.

Parroquia San Germán de Auxerre. A 300+ year old neoclassical church located at one end of the Plaza San Germán.

Museo del la Historia de San Germán. A historical museum with largely written exhibits about the history of San Germán and Puerto Rico from pre colonial times to modern day.

Ceiba de la Libertad. A 100+ year old Ceiba tree planted to commemorate Puerto Rico’s right to self governance from Spain in 1897.

Places to Eat & Drink

El Cubujon. A popular cocktail bar and lounge specializing in signature cocktails and reenvisioned classics. Try their Daiquiri made with Puerto Rican rum or the Pina Buena made with clarified citrus punch and coconut oil.

Me Latte un Pocillo. A brunch cafe in the Plaza San Germánoffering Puerto Rican coffee and waffles, omelettes and sandwiches. Sit at their sole outdoor table, overlooking the plaza, listening to the musical sounds of the town’s church bells.

Yí Restaurant. A Caribbean restaurant serving a fusion of Haitian, creole and Puerto Rican cuisine. Order the stuffed Mofongo, fried plantain mash and Accra, a yautia and malanga fritter.

Bosque Estatal de Maricao

Bosque Estatal de Maricao isa tropical forest covering the mountains bordering San Germán and Maricao. Drive along Ruta Panoramica 120 from the town of Sabana Grande to the town of Maricao to experience it. Stop at La Torre de Piedra, a castle shaped stone tower on a mountainous ridge overlooking the forest.

Lajas

Lajas is a coastal region of Puerto Rico along the Caribbean Sea with fishing villages, mangrove forests, chains of cayos, turquoise sand bars and one of the island’s famed bioluminescent bays.

La Parguera Nature Reserve

A marine reserve located in the fishing town of La Parguera. The reserve is made up of over 30 cayos, mangroves, sand bars, coral reefs and a bioluminescent bay. The only way to explore the reserve is by boat. We hired a captain for 5 hours with Joy Tours PR to bring us to different cayos in the reserve.

The Cayos

Cayo Caracoles & Robo la Gata. Two cayos with a shallow sand bars and clear turquoise water protected by the reefs and mangroves. Underwater trails lead through the mangroves and into the reef. They’re a popular spot for swimming, snorkeling, relaxing and partying. We spent the afternoon lounging in a raft, tanning in the sun and drinking Caribbean rum.

Good to Know:

Bring all food and drink with you for the day.
Wear water shoes to avoid sea urchins and broken coral.
Some cayos were closed due to damage from Hurricane Fiona.
Many boats often dock here on the weekends while the weekdays are quiet.

La Parguera Bio Bay

One of three bioluminescent bays in Puerto Rico, and the only one that people are allowed to swim in. Arriving on a tour boat at night, we jumped into the water causing a bright blue cloud of bioluminescence to form around us. As we swam in the warm salty water, it glowed bright blue with every movement, sparkling on our skin. It was a surreal experience that felt like swimming in a pool of glitter.

We booked with Paradise Scuba. Our tour included unlimited medallas and 2 fried vegetarian empanadas. We stoped at Cayo Caracoles to swim at sunset before making our way to the bio bay. We spent about half an hour in the bio bay before returning. Out of all 3 bio bays in Puerto Rico, this one was our favorite experience!

Pro Tips. The best time to visit this bio bay is on a fully dark, moonless night, after a sunny day and at least five days after the last rain. Bring a hoodie for the boat ride back. After swimming it gets cold.

Places to Eat & Drink

There are many restaurants and bars along the main road in the city center of La Parguera. Most serve seafood, Puerto Rican dishes and rum based cocktails.

Puerto Parguera Restaurant. A seafood restaurant with dishes like octopus salad, whole fried red snapper and seafood paella. We splurged and ordered a grilled Caribbean lobster with a side of maduros (fried sweet plantains).

Isla Cueva. A restaurant and bar with over a dozen burger options including beef, chicken, pork, fish and vegan. We ordered the fried mahi mahi burger, piña colada and sangria. It’s a great spot to come before or after visiting the bioluminescent bay tour.

Yauco

Yauco stretches from the Caribbean Sea to the lush and rugged landscapes of the island’s interior. The region is famed for its colorful hillside pueblo and coffee production.

Yauco Pueblo

A pueblo at the heart of Yauco that blends historic architecture and urban artworks. Vivid murals and colorful geometric patterns transform its walls, staircases and neighborhoods into an open air gallery. The town’s historic character is reflected in its mix of Creole, Spanish colonial, neoclassical, Baroque and Art Deco architecture. Adding to its charm, cafes serve locally grown and roasted coffee.

Pro Tip. Visit from Thursday to Saturday. Most businesses are closed during the first half of the week.

Yaucromatic. A hillside neighborhood converted into a canvass of colorfully painted houses, staircases and walls. The best views of the art installation is from the intersection of Calle E Sanches Lopez and Calle de la Cruz. Walk up Calle E Sanches Lopez to the top of the hill for photogenic views of the entire pueblo.

La Escalinata de Yauco. A painted staircase featuring Yauco’s flag and a statue of an indigenous Taino warrior. There’s a small park near the base of the stairs with a colorfully crochet wrapped tree and murals of Puerto Rican birds

Mural de la Niña con el Pelo de Trinitaria. A mural of a young child whose hair is formed by a vibrant bush of blossoming purple flowers.

Miradas del Barrio. A series of murals at the top of the hill overlooking Yauco featuring close up paintings of people’s staring faces and eyes.

Calle 25 de Julio. A central road with many colorful historic homes spanning different architectural styles. Some of the most notable buildings to see include: Franceschi Antongiorgi House, Filardi House and The Cesari Mansion.

Guánica

Referred to as the “Paraíso del Eterno Verano,” or the Paradise of Eternal Summer, Guánica is a sunny region with white sand beaches, dry forests and coastal look out points.

Playa Santa. A popular white sand beach with turquoise waters, kayak rentals and beach restaurants. Stop for drinks at Mojito Beach Bar & El Anclan Flontante for all kinds of fried empanadas like fish, lobster, conch, octopus and shrimp.

Guánica State Forest. A vast. Bio-reserve and dry forest home to many species of cacti, thorny evergreens and coastal mangroves. The park is divided by the Guánica Bay with several hiking trails that lead to beaches, rock formations and ruins.

Fuerte Capon. The ruins of a small fort overlooking the Guánica Bay and forest. Start at the visitor center and hike follow the 6 mile trail to hike here or park at Playa Jaboncillo beach and follow the shorter 30 minute trail to Fuerte Capon.
PR-333. A scenic coastal road with views of the dry forest and Caribbean Sea. There are many beaches, scenic pull offs and hiking trails along the way.
Good to Know. The visitor center closes at 4pm. Park rangers prevent people from beginning hikes after 2pm.

Puerto Rican Cuisine

Chillo Frito Entero. A fried red snapper served whole with crispy skin, tender meat and squeezed with lime. It’s usually accompanied by fried plantains like tostones, mofongo or amarillos.

Mofongo. Fried plantain mashed with garlic and butter. It’s often served plain or stuffed with an option of seafood. If prepared with bread fruit and yucca, it’s known as trifongo.

Empanadillas. Puerto Rican style fried empanadas stuffed with a range of fillings like octopus, conch, cod, shrimp, crap and pizza.

Pinchos. Grilled meats served on a stick often served at beaches or roadside kiosks. Our favorites are shark and shrimp.

Mojo Isleño. A savory sauce made from tomato, onion, bell pepper, garlic, olives and bay leaves. It’s often served on fried red snapper, lobster or mixed with octopus and conch.

Mallorca. A Puerto Rican pasty often shaped like a bun or swirled roll and dusted in powered sugar. Our favorite preparations are pressed with guava with cheese or egg and cheese.

Coco Frio. A cold and freshly opened coconut. Drink the coconut water inside then the sweet meat inside. Alternatively, enjoy it with coconut rum to create a tropical cocktail

Rum. Puerto Rico is unarguably the rum capital of the Caribbean with several distilleries and local brands served in bars across the island. Order it on the rocks, in a Pina Colada or other tropical cocktail.

Medalla. The island’s most popular local beer, recognizable by it’s small golden can. It has a light slightly nutty flavor and is served everywhere. Buy a 6 pack for the beach!

Getting Around

Rent A Car. Renting a car is necessary to get around anywhere on the southwest side of Puerto Rico. Rent from a reputable rental agency from any of the island’s three airports in San Juan, Aguadilla or Ponce. We’ve had luck renting from local agencies including: Charlie Car Rental, Cabrera Car & Truck Rental and Flagship.

Where to Stay

Orange B Living (OB3). A tropical style motel in Cabo Rojo with a series of vacation rentals and apartments. It’s walking distance to nearby restaurants and driving distance to Cabo Rojo’s beaches. Book on Airbnb.

Location Specifics

Respect the Culture. Puerto Ricans are very proud of their island, culture and heritage. Please show respect when discussing local issues and topics. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and learn about the culture and island.

US Territory. Puerto Rico is a US Territory meaning US Citizens can visit the island without a passport.

Language. Spanish is the primary language spoken in Puerto Rico. English is widely spoken as a second language. Knowing basic Spanish words and phrases is helpful and beneficial when visiting.

Currency. Puerto Rico uses the US Dollar.

Metric vs Imperial. Puerto Rico uses a combination of the Metric and Imperial systems. Speed limits are in marked in mph while distances are marked in kilometers. Gasoline is sold by the liter instead of by the gallon.

Cash vs Card. Credit and debit card is widely accepted across the island. Cash is preferred by most vendors at markets, kiosks and some businesses.

Power Outages. The electrical grid is fragile due to devastation from past natural disasters. While power outages rarely affect tourists, they do happen. It’s a difficult part of life for many Puerto Ricans.

Tap Water. Tap water is generally safe for consumption around the island.

Tropical Weather. Puerto Rico experiences tropical weather. Carry an umbrella incase of afternoon and evening rain storms. Tropical storms and hurricanes are possible from June through November with September through October being the most active.

Swimming. Mind the warning signs and red flags advising about dangerous ocean currents. Pay attention to where others are and are not swimming.

Sun Protection. The harsh UV is dangerous in Puerto Rico. Wear sun block when outside, even on cloudy days.

Insect Repellent. Mosquitos are prevalent across the island with mosquito borne illnesses on the rise. Wear insect repellant to minimize bites.

Clothing. Shorts and tank tops are generally acceptable to wear, keep the swimwear for the beach and plan to change into pants while dining out or visiting local spots.

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

Having visited Puerto Rico nearly 20 times, we’ve experienced many places across the island. Though we don’t live here, we consider ourselves non-local experts and one day hope to call this beautiful island our home. Experience Puerto Rican culture in the capital city of San Juan. Explore the colorful and colonial streets of Old San Juan. Participate in Carnival during the Festival of Masks in Puerto Rico’s second city, Ponce. Hike the El Yunque Rainforest in Eastern Puerto Rico. Visit the surf towns along Western Puerto Rico. See the indigenous Taino sights of Central Puerto Rico. Get off the mainland to visit the islands of Culebra and Vieques.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around the southwestern region of Puerto Rico including:

Hacienda Iluminada Coffee Farm. A coffee hacienda home to 787 Coffee. They frequently offer tours and tastings. Book online or call ahead for reservations.

Parque Nacional Balneario Boquerón. A lengthy golden sand beach with a large palm grove, protected swimming area and sunset views.

Finca El Girasol. A sunflower farm with near year round rows of sunflowers. The finca offers tours and fresh cut sunflowers.

El Rodadero Peak. A mountain peak reachable after hiking a steep and slippery trail. It offers stunning views of the island’s lush and rugged landscape.

The Wall. A vast drop off along the continental shelf spanning several miles with over 30 different dive sites. Paradise Scuba & Snorkel in La Parguera offers snorkeling and scuba diving tours.

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Ponce, Puerto Rico

Ponce, known as “The Pearl of the South,” is famed for its architectural landmarks, indigenous cultural sights and annual carnival festivities.

The Pearl of the South

Ponce, known as “The Pearl of the South,” is famed for its architectural landmarks, indigenous cultural sights and annual carnival festivities.

Architectural Styles

Ponce is a historic city with multitudes of architectural styles and colorful buildings. We spent an afternoon wandering the streets to see the mix of Creole, Colonial, Neoclassical, Spanish Revival, Miami Art Deco, Arabesque and 90s Modernist style buildings.

An Underdog

The city is a bit of an underdog; recovering from hurricanes, earthquakes and the effects of the pandemic. Though quieter and less traveled to, it has a charming local ambiance that can’t be overlooked. Like many Ponceños, we’re rooting for this beautiful city!

Visit the Sights & Museums

Plaza de las Delicias. The lush town square and historical center of Ponce with monuments, statues, landmark buildings and adjacent restaurants.

Fuente de los Leones. A large two tiered fountain with statues lions, a symbol of strength and of Ponce.

Parque de Bombas. Ponce’s iconic red and black striped former fire station and now museum.

Museo de la Historia de Ponce. Ponce’s historical museum with galleries explaining the significance of the city, its history, politics, architecture and cultural impacts on Puerto Rico as a whole. A local historian, Ronald, gave us a tour, recommended places to eat in Ponce and nearby places to visit.

Ponce Cathedral. A large light blue and white neoclassical cathedral that divides the plaza.

La Guancha. A waterfront boardwalk and beach with restaurants, kiosks, a marina and an observation tower. Hurricane Fiona caused structural damage to the boardwalk and its since been condemned. Many restaurants have since opened food trucks along a road in the parking area.

Museo Castillo Serrallés. A large mansion overlooking the city that once belonged to a sugar cane & rum baron. It’s now a museum and event venue with lush gardens and city views. Come to tour its grounds and interiors while sipping on a Don Q piña colada from its cafe.

Centro Ceremonial Indígena de Tibes. A free archeological museum dedicated to the Tiano people with exhibits displaying artifacts including pottery, stone tools, shell jewelry and human remains. A short walk behind the museum is an open air exhibit with uncovered petroglyphs, stone platforms, ball courts and a plaza.

Carnaval Ponceño (Festival of Masks)

Ponce’s week long carnival festival included nightly events, parades, performances and the famous Vejigantes leading up to carnival Tuesday.

Vejigantes

Carnaval Ponceño, also known as The Festival of Masks, is famous for the Puerto Rican Vejigantes, elaborately painted paper mache masks decorated with pointed horns, jagged teeth and worn with colorful jumpsuits. The Vejigantes are the symbol of the carnival and traditionally act as a reminder of evil spirits. Nowadays, they’re an expression of Puerto Rican culture.

The Festival

Plaza de las Delicias is turned into a fair with food, drink and craft vendors, amusement park rides & a main stage hosting musical performances and announcing the events on the carnival. Unlike what’s typically expected from carnival, Ponce’s is very family friendly.

Food vendors fry all types Puerto Rican dishes like mero (grouper), mofongo bites (mashed plantain), bacalaitos (cod fritters) and cheese. Full bars serve medalla, the local beer, and a list of cocktails like piña coladas, cuba libres and rum punch. Craft vendors sell handmade items like Vejigante pins, masks, horns and painted jackets. We bought and wore a pair of horns, similar to the full face masks worn by the Vejigantes.

The Main Parade

The main parade is the largest event of the carnival celebrations with Vejigantes, marching bands, floats, the queens of the carnival, classic cars & loud speaker trucks. The parade travels west down Calle Reina towards Plaza de las Delicias and ending in front of the main stage. The parade happens on Sunday afternoon before carnival Tuesday. It started around 2:30pm and lasted into the evening with festivities lasting even longer. Most people arrive by late morning and set up chairs along the shaded side of Calle Reina for the best views.

Places to Eat & Drink

Campioni Pizza Birra & Tapas. A popular restaurant for Puerto Rican style pizza (thin crust pizza cooked in a wood fired oven). Order the fruto del mar pizza topped with shrimp, calamari and octopus to and a sangria.

Lola Eclectic Cuisine. An elevated restaurant serving international cuisine. Try the tuna tartare wonton tacos, grilled salmon on a taro cake, sea bass over lentils and ice-cream on a fried plantain.

Mariscos Patio Beach. A roadside seafood kiosk overlooking the Caribbean with fresh and fried seafood dishes. Try the octopus salad, shrimp salad and tostones.

Tazza D' Oro Caffé. A breakfast and brunch spot across from Plaza de las Delicias. Try the egg quesadilla or eggs Benedict on brioche. They serve Gusto’s coffee, a Puerto Rican coffee roaster.

Con Leche. A breakfast and brunch cafe. Try the Mallorca egg sandwich or breakfast wrap made with eggs and salsa rojo.

Chango Bar. A dive bar named after the little black birds seen across Puerto Rico. Come here for a Medalla or glass of Don Q served neat.