Central Puerto Rico

A Lush & Rugged Landscape

The central mountainous region of Puerto Rico is a lush and rugged landscape with tree covered mountains, ancient cave systems, breathtaking canyons, mesmerizing waterfalls, scenic hiking trails, coffee haciendas and Taino archeological sights. We’ve ventured to the interior of the island on previous trips, getting to explore more of its natural landscapes, biodiversity and learn about its history. 

Natural Landmarks  

The interior of the island is home to many natural landmarks worth visiting. Rent a car and road-trip through the interior to swim below waterfalls, explore caves, traverse canyons and overlook the mountains from scenic lookouts. 

Canyon Blanco.  A canyon with large white rocks and cliffs polished smooth by the river. There is a trail leading along the canyon with Taino petroglyphs, a small beach and views of the surrounding mountainside. 

• Petroglyphs.  There are well defined Taino petroglyphs dating back hundreds of years carved into some boulders throughout the canyon. The most notable are figures of babies swaddled in blankets. They’re unmarked but easily visible if you’re looking. The petroglyphs are primarily located on large boulders downriver from the bridge before entering the canyon. 

• Getting Here.  Take PR-140 and park at “Parking For El Sofa” just before a small bridge over the river. Walk down the west bank of the river and wade through it on foot before the rapids to reach the canyon trail. Alternatively, there is paid parking at Private Property a few minutes past the bridge for $10 with access to the canyon and trail. 

• Good to Know.  The canyon is one of the most beautiful sights on the island but is difficult to reach. There is no cell service here. Download offline maps before traveling to the canyon. Don’t go on rainy days. Flash floods and rising waters are common. 

Cueva Ventana.  A cave that leads underground through multiple chambers with bat colonies, stalactites and stalagmites before reaching a cliffside opening that overlooks the valley and river below. From here, Taino petroglyphs can be seen as cave birds and bats flutter into and out of the window like opening of the cave. It’s located 15 minutes from the city of Arecibo. Make reservations online ahead of time. 

Cueva La Clarito.  A cave with a large chamber, giant flow stone, stalactites, stalagmites and petroglyphs dating back thousands of years. It’s accessible along the tour to Cueva Ventana. 

Gozalandia Falls.  A waterfall over a smooth rock cliff with a natural swimming pool below it. Upstream are several river pools and another waterfall with a natural swimming pool. Parking costs $10. There is restaurant and bar at the entrance selling fresh coco frio (cold coconuts).

Doña Juana Waterfall.  A 100ft tall waterfall with a swimming pool at its base, It’s a popular roadside stop in the central mountains with a restaurant and bar. 

Lago dos Bocas. A mountain lake created by a dam popular with locals for fishing and kayaking. It’s located 20 minutes from the city of Arecibo. 

Cerro Las Tetas.  A mountain range known for its twin peaks that resemble a pair of breasts. It’s visible from various roadside overlooks and pull offs along Highway 1 in Salinas. 

Cerro de Punta.  The tallest point on the island measuring 4,390 feet above sea level. Park along the road, Ruta Panoramica (PR-143), at the trail head and hike about 20 minutes to reach the summit. On a clear day, there are views across the island. Be cautious of the wasp nests in the bushes at the lookout.

El Yunque National Forest.  A rainforest full of lush tropical vegetation, waterfalls with natural pools, hiking trails, lookout towers, tree snails and frogs. Read more about El Yunque in our Eastern Puerto Rico Guide. 

Adventure Tourism

The rugged interior of the island is a popular place for adventure tourism and contrasts with the golden beaches surrounding the island. Come here to overlook Puerto Rico from its tallest peak, speed down one of the world’s longest zip-lines and hike miles up a river canyon. 

Tanama River Eco-Adventure.  On a guided tour, we hiked up the Tanama River, a river located in a canyon with steep walls, overgrown cliffs, small waterfalls and stalactite covered caves. Hiking through the forest to reach the river. Our guide, pointed out flora invasive to the island, toxic vegetation and medicinal plants. Once reaching the river, we plunged in and began a miles long journey upstream, swimming against the current, wading through the water and crawling into dark caves. On our return, we floated downstream and let the current lazily carry us back the starting point. Along the way, we learned that the Tanama River is the original route the Taino people traveled to navigate between the coast and the mountains. We booked the experience through Viator.

Toro Verde Adventure Park.  An adventure park high in the mountains known for two of the world’s longest zip lines, suspension bridges and smaller zip lines. 

• The Monster.  The zip line measures over 1.5 miles long and spans between two lush mountains above a 1,000 feet deep canyon. Unlike typical zip lines, on The Monster, you lay flat in a cocoon flying between the mountains reaching speeds over 90 miles per hour. 

• The Beast.  The park’s other super long zip line. We have yet to ride this one but have it on our list for next time. 

• Toro Bikes.  A zip line with bikes attached to the cable and used to peddle back and forth between towers. 

• Good to Know.  The park is located about 2 hours from San Juan. Book tickets online in advance and prepare to wait in-line for over an hour for your chance at riding The Monster or The Beast. Phones and cameras are not permitted. Photos are available for sale.

The Land of The Tainos

The central mountainous region was home to the Taino people, a pre-Columbian culture that populated the Puerto Rico and other Caribbean islands hundreds of years ago. Today, several archeological sights including ceremonial grounds, detailed petroglyphs and museums with artifacts from the Tainos are on display throughout the region. 

Cemí Mountain.  A mountain with 3 distinct peaks that held spiritual and cultural important to the Taino people. Many artifacts have been found shaped in the likeness of the mountain.  

Caguana Ceremonial Indigenous Heritage Center.  A Taino archeological park at the base of the sacred Cemí Mountain with outdoor ball courts and stone monoliths carved with ornate petroglyphs of humanoid figures, condors and a fish. The sight is one of the most important Taino archeological sights in the Caribbean. 

Caguana Ceremonial Indigenous Heritage Museum. A museum with hundreds of Taino artifacts including: tools made from manatee bone and shells, remnants of clay pottery, stone axe heads, stone ceremonial belts and statues representing the Cemí Mountain. 

La Piedra Escrita.  A massive river boulder with Taino petroglyphs including faces, swirling formations and an iconic frog. Many locals come here to swim in the natural pool at the base of the boulder. 

El Cemí Monument Museum.  A museum built in the shape of a giant Cemí with exhibits that promote and celebrate the Taino culture and people. It houses Taino artifacts including wooden vomit spatulas, tools made from bone and shells, clay pottery, stone axe heads and statues representing the Cemí Mountain. There is a grave of a Tiano woman outside of the museum. 

Coffee Haciendas 

The mountainous region provides the perfect climate and conditions for coffee farming. There are dozens of coffee haciendas across the region growing beans for cafes across the island and offering tours of their farms. 

Hacienda San Pedro. A coffee hacienda with a cafe, shop, museum, processing factory and farm stand with local produce, honey and juices. 

Good to Know.  Many of the coffee haciendas are remote and have inconsistent hours making them difficult to visit. Call ahead to confirm hours and availability. 

Getting Around

By Car.  The only way to get around the central mountainous region is by car, preferably one with all wheel drive. Many of the roads twist and turn around the mountainsides and steep valleys. 

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

Having visited Puerto Rico nearly 20 times, we’ve experienced many places across the island. Though we don’t live here, we consider ourselves non-local experts and one day hope to call this beautiful island our home. Explore the colorful and colonial streets of Old San Juan. Experience Puerto Rican culture in the capital city of San Juan. Head to the southern coast of Caribbean Puerto Rico. Hike the El Yunque Rainforest in Eastern Puerto Rico. Visit the surf towns along Western Puerto Rico. Get off the mainland to visit the islands of Culebra and Vieques.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around the interior and mountainous regions of Puerto Rico including: 

• Explore Arecibo.  Spend a weekend exploring the beaches, sea arches and caves in Arecibo. 

• Rio Camuy Caves.  A vast cave system with an underwater river, large caverns, stalactites, stalagmites, rock formations and colonies of bats. It located about an hour from San Juan between the central mountains and the town of Arecibo. 

• Hike Cerro Mime.  A steep grassy mountain peak with views of the surrounding valleys. 

• Toro Negro State Forest.  A forested area in the central mountainous region with hiking trails, waterfalls, mountain peaks and camp grounds.

• River Caving Tour.  Join a kayaking tour through one of the mountainous rivers and caves. El Batay Adventures across from the Caguana Ceremonial Indigenous Heritage Center offers excursions. 

Caribbean Puerto Rico

The Caribbean Coast

Puerto Rico’s Caribbean Coast offers a tropical and cultural escape to some of the island’s best gems. The coast features unspoiled beaches, protected marine reserves, a bioluminescent bay, a dry forest and pink salt flats. It is also home to Indigenous cultural sites and the colonial city of Ponce.

Ponce

Known as “The Pearl of the South,” Ponce is famed for its architecture, cultural sights and annual carnival festivities. We spent a week here, celebrating Carnaval and exploring other areas along the Caribbean Coast. 

Architectural Styles 

Ponce is a historic city with multitudes of architectural styles and colorful buildings. We spent an afternoon wandering the streets to see the mix of Creole, Colonial, Neoclassical, Spanish Revival, Miami Art Deco, Arabesque and 90s Modernist style buildings. 

An Underdog 

The city is a bit of an underdog; recovering from hurricanes, earthquakes and the effects of the pandemic. Though quieter and less traveled to, it has a charming local ambiance that can’t be overlooked. Like many Ponceños, we’re rooting for this beautiful city!

Sights & Museums

Plaza de las Delicias.  The lush town square and historical center of Ponce with monuments, statues, landmark buildings and adjacent restaurants.  

• Fuente de los Leones.  A large two tiered fountain with statues lions, a symbol of strength and of Ponce.

• Ponce Cathedral.  A large light blue and white neoclassical cathedral that divides the plaza. 

• Parque de Bombas.  Ponce’s iconic red and black striped former fire station and now museum. 

Museo de la Historia de Ponce.  Ponce’s historical museum with galleries explaining the significance of the city, its history, politics, architecture and cultural impacts on Puerto Rico as a whole. A local historian, Ronald, gave us a tour, recommended places to eat in Ponce and nearby places to visit. 

Museo Castillo Serrallés.  A large mansion overlooking the city that once belonged to a sugar cane & rum baron. It’s now a museum and event venue with lush gardens and city views. Come to tour its grounds and interiors while sipping on a Don Q piña colada from its cafe. 

La Guancha.  A waterfront boardwalk and beach with restaurants, kiosks, a marina and an observation tower. Hurricane Fiona caused structural damage to the boardwalk and its since been condemned. Many restaurants have since opened food trucks along a road in the parking area. 

Centro Ceremonial Indígena de Tibes.  A free archeological museum dedicated to the Tiano people with exhibits displaying artifacts including pottery, stone tools, shell jewelry and human remains. A short walk behind the museum is an open air exhibit with uncovered petroglyphs, stone platforms, ball courts and a plaza. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Campioni Pizza Birra & Tapas.  A popular restaurant for Puerto Rican style pizza (thin crust pizza cooked in a wood fired oven). Order the fruto del mar pizza topped with shrimp, calamari and octopus to and a sangria.

Lola Eclectic Cuisine.  An elevated restaurant serving international cuisine. Try the tuna tartare wonton tacos, grilled salmon on a taro cake, sea bass over lentils and ice-cream on a fried plantain. 

Mariscos Patio Beach.  A roadside seafood kiosk overlooking the Caribbean with fresh and fried seafood dishes. Try the octopus salad, shrimp salad and tostones. 

Tazza D' Oro Caffé.  A breakfast and brunch spot across from Plaza de las Delicias. Try the egg quesadilla or eggs Benedict on brioche. They serve Gusto’s coffee, a Puerto Rican coffee roaster. 

Con Leche.  A breakfast and brunch cafe. Try the Mallorca egg sandwich or breakfast wrap made with eggs and salsa rojo.

Chango Bar.  A dive bar named after the little black birds seen across Puerto Rico. Come here for a Medalla or glass of Don Q served neat. 

Carnaval Ponceño (Festival of Masks)  

Ponce’s week long carnival festival included nightly events, parades, performances and the famous Vejigantes leading up to carnival Tuesday. 

Vejigantes

Carnaval Ponceño, also known as The Festival of Masks, is famous for the Puerto Rican Vejigantes, elaborately painted paper mache masks decorated with pointed horns, jagged teeth and worn with colorful jumpsuits. The Vejigantes are the symbol of the carnival and traditionally act as a reminder of evil spirits. Nowadays, they’re an expression of Puerto Rican culture. 

The Festival 

Plaza de las Delicias is turned into a fair with food, drink and craft vendors, amusement park rides & a main stage hosting musical performances and announcing the events on the carnival. Unlike what’s typically expected from carnival, Ponce’s is very family friendly.

Food vendors fry all types Puerto Rican dishes like mero (grouper), mofongo bites (mashed plantain), bacalaitos (cod fritters) and cheese. Full bars serve medalla, the local beer, and a list of cocktails like piña coladas, cuba libres and rum punch. Craft vendors sell handmade items like Vejigante pins, masks, horns and painted jackets. We bought and wore a pair of horns, similar to the full face masks worn by the Vejigantes.

The Main Parade 

The main parade is the largest event of the carnival celebrations with Vejigantes, marching bands, floats, the queens of the carnival, classic cars & loud speaker trucks. The parade travels west down Calle Reina towards Plaza de las Delicias and ending in front of the main stage. The parade happens on Sunday afternoon before carnival Tuesday. It started around 2:30pm and lasted into the evening with festivities lasting even longer. Most people arrive by late morning and set up chairs along the shaded side of Calle Reina for the best views. 

Guanica

Referred to as the “Paraíso del Eterno Verano,” of the Paradise of Eternal Summer, Guanica is a sunny region with white sand beaches, dry forests and coastal look out points.  

Playa Santa. A popular white sand beach with turquoise waters, kayak rentals and beach restaurants. Stop for drinks at Mojito Beach Bar & El Anclan Flontante for all kinds of fried empanadas like fish, lobster, conch, octopus and shrimp. 

Guanica State Forest.  A dry forest home to many species of cacti, thorny evergreens and coastal mangroves. The park is divided by the Guanica Bay with several hiking trails that lead to beaches, rock formations and ruins. It’s designated as a UN bio-reserve. Located 30min west of Ponce.

• Fuerte Capon.  The ruins of a small fort overlooking the Guanica Bay and forest. Start at the visitor center and hike follow the 6 mile trail to hike here or park at Playa Jaboncillo beach and follow the shorter 30 minute trail to Fuerte Capon.

• PR-333.  A scenic coastal road with views of the dry forest and Caribbean Sea. There are many beaches, scenic pull offs and hiking trails along the way.

• Pro Tip.  The visitor center closes at 4pm and doesn’t allow people to begin hiking longer trails after 2pm. 

La Parguera Nature Reserve 

A marine reserve located in the fishing town of La Parguera. The reserve is made up of over 30 cayos, mangroves, sand bars, coral reefs and a bioluminescent bay. The only way to explore the reserve is by boat. We hired a captain for 5 hours with Joy Tours PR to bring us to different cayos in the reserve. 

They Cayos

Cayo Caracoles & Robo la Gata.  Two cayos with a shallow sand bars and clear turquoise water protected by the reefs and mangroves. Underwater trails lead through the mangroves and into the reef. They’re a popular spot for swimming, snorkeling, relaxing and partying. We spent the afternoon lounging in a raft, tanning in the sun and drinking Caribbean rum. 

Good to Know:

• Bring all food and drink with you for the day. 

• Wear water shoes to avoid sea urchins and broken coral. 

• Some cayos were closed due to damage from Hurricane Fiona. 

• Many boats often dock here on the weekends while the weekdays are quiet. 

La Parguera Bio Bay 

One of three bioluminescent bays in Puerto Rico, and the only one that people are allowed to swim in. Arriving on a tour boat at night, we jumped into the water causing a bright blue cloud of bioluminescence to form around us. As we swam in the warm salty water, it glowed bright blue with every movement, sparkling on our skin. It was a surreal experience that felt like swimming in a pool of glitter. 

We booked with Paradise Scuba. Our tour included unlimited medallas and 2 fired vegetarian empanadas. We stoped at Cayo Caracoles to swim at sunset before making our way to the bio bay. We spent about half an hour in the bio bay before returning. Out of all 3 bio bays in Puerto Rico, this one was our favorite experience! 

Pro Tips. The best time to visit this bio bay is on a fully dark, moonless night, after a sunny day and at least five days after the last rain. Bring a hoodie for the boat ride back. After swimming it gets cold.

Parguera Restaurants

There are many restaurants and bars along the main road in the city center of La Parguera. Most serve seafood, Puerto Rican dishes and rum based cocktails. 

Puerto Parguera Restaurant.  A seafood restaurant with dishes like octopus salad, whole fried red snapper and seafood paella. We splurged and ordered a grilled Caribbean lobster with a side of maduros (fried sweet plantains).

Isla Cueva.  A restaurant and bar with over a dozen burger options including beef, chicken, pork, fish and vegan. We ordered the fried mahi mahi burger, piña colada and sangria. It’s a great spot to come before or after visiting the bioluminescent bay tour. 

Cabo Rojo

A picturesque corner on the south west side the island with pink salt flats, desert-like terrain and turquoise Caribbean waters. 

Cabo Rojo Salt Flats

Famous for their pink and light blue hued salt ponds. Upon arrival, we parked at the visitor center. It has a quaint museum with information on the surrounding ecosystem, the indigenous history behind the salt ponds and their use today. They also sell bottled water and have a restroom if needed.

Across from the visitor is a 3 story tall observation tower overlooking the salt flats. It offers a great vantage point to take in all of the different colored ponds. Further down the road is an entrance to the salt ponds where we walked across the narrow pathways separating each pond. The salt flats are open from 8:30am-4:30pm

Cabo Rojo Trails

There are a few nature trails that weave through the salt flats and desert-like terrain. We spent about two hours hiking through them and exploring the area. When coming here, wear sun protection, bring a sturdy umbrella and plenty of water. 

Observation Tower Loop.  A trail leading through the dry forest from the visitor center to an observation tower overlooking a large salt pond.

Ruins Trail.  A trail that cuts across two large salt ponds, past a pile of salt, to a series of smaller ones and ends at the sea. The trail connects to the Observation Tower Loop and Bikes Trail.

Bikes Trail.  A long trail that weaves throughout the salt flats, frequently used by mountain bikers  

Coastal Sights 

Playa Sucia.  A crescent shaped beach covered in soft white sand hugging a turquoise bay. There are no nearby restaurants so bringing food, snack and water is a must. It’s a popular beach despite being semi remote and best to arrive early to find parking and a shaded spot under the trees. From here, we hiked to Faro Los Morrillos Lighthouse.

Faro Los Morrillos Lighthouse.  A cliffside lighthouse with panoramic views of the Caribbean. There are hiking trails throughout the peninsula, rock formations and steep jagged cliffs. 

Maunabo

A remote town on the far southeast side of Puerto Rico with lengthy natural beaches along the Caribbean Sea. 

Playa Los Bohios.  A pristine yellow and black sand beach lined with palm trees and views of the mountains. The water can be dangerous for swimming due to currents. 

Faro de Punta Tuna.  A historic Spanish lighthouse overlooking Playa Los Bohios and Punta Tuna Beach.

Punta Tuna Beach.   A secluded palm lined yellow sand beach. The beach is not safe for swimming but makes for a beautiful setting for a relaxing afternoon. 

Ecuarican Bar Restaurant.  A restaurant with Ecuadorian and Puerto Rican fusion cuisine. It’s perched high on a cliff with an outdoor deck overlooking the coast. Come here for the mixed seafood ceviche and empanadas. 

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Chillo Frito Entero.  A fried red snapper served whole with crispy skin, tender meat and squeezed with lime. It’s usually accompanied by fried plantains like tostones, mofongo or amarillos. 

Mofongo.  Fried plantain mashed with garlic and butter. It’s often served plain or stuffed with an option of seafood. If prepared with bread fruit and yucca, it’s known as trifongo. 

Empanadillas.  Puerto Rican style fried empanadas stuffed with a range of fillings like octopus, conch, cod, shrimp, crap and pizza. 

Pinchos.  Grilled meats served on a stick often served at beaches or roadside kiosks. Our favorites are shark and shrimp. 

Mojo Isleño.  A savory sauce made from tomato, onion, bell pepper, garlic, olives and bay leaves. It’s often served on fried red snapper, lobster or mixed with octopus and conch.

Mallorca.  A Puerto Rican pasty often shaped like a bun or swirled roll and dusted in powered sugar. Our favorite preparations are pressed with guava with cheese or egg and cheese. 

Coco Frio.  A cold and freshly opened coconut. Drink the coconut water inside then the sweet meat inside. Alternatively, enjoy it with coconut rum to create a tropical cocktail 

Rum.  Puerto Rico is unarguably the rum capital of the Caribbean with several distilleries and local brands served in bars across the island. Order it on the rocks, in a Pina Colada or other tropical cocktail. 

Medalla.  The island’s most popular local beer, recognizable by it’s small golden can. It has a light slightly nutty flavor and is served everywhere. Buy a 6 pack for the beach!

Getting Around

Fly into Ponce.  Ponce has a small airport with several flights per day operated by Frontier and Jet Blue. It’s located 15 minutes from the city center. 

Rent A Car.  Renting a car is necessary to get around anywhere on the south side of Puerto Rico outside of Ponce. There are multiple car rental companies at the airport. 

Driving Between Towns: 

• Cabo Rojo is about 1 hour 30 minutes west of Ponce. 

• La Parguera is about 1 hour west of Ponce.

• Guanica is 30-45 minutes west of Ponce.

• Salinas is about 45 minutes east of Ponce. 

• Maunabo is about 1 hour 30 minutes east of Ponce. 

Where to Stay

Casa Luna.  An inexpensive hotel in a neon green creole style building located 2 streets away from Plaza de las Delicias in Ponce’s city center. It has multiple private rooms with bathrooms, a public patio and outdoor kitchen. Book on Airbnb.

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

Having visited Puerto Rico nearly 20 times, we’ve experienced many places across the island. Though we don’t live here, we consider ourselves non-local experts and one day hope to call this beautiful island our home. Experience Puerto Rican culture in the capital city of San Juan. Explore the colorful and colonial streets of Old San Juan. Hike the El Yunque Rainforest in Eastern Puerto Rico. Visit the surf towns along Western Puerto Rico. See the indigenous Taino sights of Central Puerto Rico. Get off the mainland to visit the islands of Culebra and Vieques.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around the southern side of Puerto Rico including: 

Isla Caja De Muertos (Coffin Island).  A secluded nature reserve off the coast of Ponce home to a dry forest, many species of birds, coral reefs for snorkeling and diving, sandy beaches, turquoise water, hiking trails and mangroves. It can only be reached by boat however most ferries and tour operators have stopped visiting the island since hurricane Fiona and a series of earthquakes. 

Explore Yacuco.  Spend a day exploring the colorful hillside community and its nearby coffee haciendas.

Western Puerto Rico

Tropical Paradise 

The western coast of Puerto Rico a tropical paradise with surf towns, palm lined beaches and sunset views. It’s best known for the districts of Rincón and Aguadilla. The relaxing atmosphere is best enjoyed on a surf board at sea or under an umbrella on shore with a piña colada in hand. 

Rincón

Rincón is a tropical destination famed for its surfing, laid back vibes and large “expat” population. The district is centered around two main areas, Centro Puntas and Rincón Pueblo. Each has their own atmosphere, beaches and nightlife. 

Centro Puntas.  A sleepy stretch of Rincón dotted with colorful homes, verdant hillsides and beaches that wrap around the island far western point. Surf schools provide lessons while oceanfront restaurants provide offer views of surf breaks. The 

Rincón Pueblo.  The town center is a hub for activity in Rincón while capturing the laidback vibes of the island’s west coast. It’s home to weekly markets, cocktail bars, roadside cafes, island boutiques and Puerto Rican restaurants.

Surf & Snorkeling Beaches 

Rincón is the surf capital of Puerto Rico. It’s the point where the Caribbean Sea and Atlantic Ocean meet providing consistent waves year round. The winter months offer the best surf conditions with larger waves caused by strong Atlantic winds. Surfers of all levels can be seen riding waves from sunrise until sunset. There are multiple surf schools and board rentals near the beaches. 

Don Antonio’s Beach.  A beautiful beach with a coral reef located just off shore. The reef makes it a quiet and peaceful place to sunbathe or relax under the shade of the palm trees. It’s a popular beach for surfers to practice and catch waves. 

Playa Maria.  A very popular surfer’s beach for all levels of experience. Instructors offer lessons and rentals while shops sell surf gear. It’s great location to spot sea turtles and snorkel in the beautiful coral gardens on a calm day. The shallow but long shore offers a range of places to hideout under the palms and enjoy the tropical vibes.

Domes Beach.  Named after the giant white dome, a deactivated nuclear reactor, towering above the palm trees. Its placement offers a stark juxtaposition to the pristine nature surrounding it. The beach itself is popular with experienced surfers and for surf competitions. 

Sandy Beach.  A golden sand stretch of shoreline perfect for sunbathing, bodysurfing, swimming and surfing. There are a few boutique hotels overlooking the shore, nearby restaurants, cafes and bars. Multiple surf schools are based in the area along with a shipping container with surfboard and boogie-board rentals. A 4 hour rental for $25 or an 8 hour for $35.

Dogman Beach.  A very small beach with a reef on either side. It acts as a launching point for surfers to safely paddle out. It’s located just south of Playa Maria. 

Pro Tip.  Surf earlier in the morning before the waves become too choppy. 

Steps Beach.  A snorkeling beach with healthy coral formations and many species of fish. We snorkeled over large formations of elkhorn coral and spotted parrot fish. During low tide, there are shallow tide pools where families relax with children. The beach is named for a set of concrete steps washed up onshore. It’s also a great spot to look for sea glass. 

Playa Dona Lala.  A sandy beach with a deep shoreline and calm aquamarine waters. It’s the perfect place to swim and relax under the Caribbean sun. Vendors rent umbrellas, beach chairs and jet skis. There is a small plaza with cafes & restaurants behind the beach parking lot. It’s only about a 10-15 minute walk from Plaza Pública de Rincón.

Rincón Surf School

A surf school near Sandy Beach with board rentals and a range of lessons. We booked a 3 day surf class with 3 hour morning lessons starting at 8am. After some onshore basics, the paddled out to begin surfing!

• Day 1 - Dogman Beach.  The first day focused in the basics of paddling, standing up and balancing while riding the waves. With the push of our instructor, we were able to catch and ride several waves! 

• Day 2 - Playa Maria.  The second day was very similar to the first but at a different beach. With practice, we were able to catch several more waves with less assistance. An onshore photographer even snapped a few photos! While waiting in the lineup, we spotted sea turtles swimming in the reef beneath our boards. It was a magical experience. 

• Day 3 - Playa Don Antonio.  My third and final surf lesson was the most rewarding. We were able to watch for, catch and ride about half of the waves without the help of our instructor. From never having surfed before to riding waves on my own felt so rewarding. 

A surf lesson in Rincón is worth every moment for anyone who loves the ocean! It’s a mix of high energy and relaxation while being surrounded by stunning nature. The only advice to anyone learning to surf is be ready to paddle a lot! It’s all worth it once you ride a wave! Book Lessons Here. 

Rincon Sights 

Punta Higüero Lighthouse.  Located at the south end of Domes Beach is a Spanish style lighthouse and lookout point. It’s a nice place to watch surfers, spot for whales or enjoy a meal and drink at the cliffside restaurant, Ola Sunset Cafe.

Tres Palmas Reserve Path.  A nature and biking trail along the Caribbean coast and a gated cattle field north of Steps Beach.

Domes Trail.  A coastal nature trail north of Dome’s beach and around the nuclear reactor. It passes multiple smaller secluded beaches. 

Plaza Pública de Rincón.  This plaza is the heart of Rincón Pueblo. It hosts weekly events like the Rincon Art Walk and Farmer’s Market. 

Events & Markets 

Rincón Art Walk.  On Thursday nights, the plaza comes to life with artists and vendors selling handmade jewelry, sea glass, decorated drift wood, scenic paintings, local photographs, wooden cookware, oils, soaps, etc. At the same time, live musicians and performances entertain crowds in the center of the plaza. All the while, people sipping on ice cold medallas and tropical cocktails spill out of bars onto the surrounding streets. The art walk typically lasts from 5-10pm while the nightlife continues into the early morning. 

Rincón Farmers Market.  On Sunday mornings, the plaza transforms into a farmers market. Vendors set up under white tents selling locally grown produce, tropical flowers, potted herbs, baskets of eggs, empanadas, fresh squeezed orange juice, vegan meals and organic oils. The market is open from 8am until the early afternoon.

Surf Shops & Boutiques 

Centro Puntas features several surf shops, while Rincón Pueblo offers boutique specializing in handmade goods and home decor. A few we love visiting are:

Rincón Surf Market.  Located under Kahuna Burger Bar. Come here for clothes, beverages, jewelry, surf boards and sun block. The owner owns the restaurant above, hotel and surf school.

Stoked : Surf + Espresso.  A surf shop and cafe at Playa Maria. It’s a great place to come before or after surfing for coffee, juice, baked goods or surf equipment.

Mango Beach Surf Shop. Come here for souvenir t-shirt’s, hoodies, sunblock and aloe vera.  

Trove.  A beautiful home goods store with desert vibes and tropical aesthetics. They sell items made from dried grasses, handwoven area rugs, textural pillows embossed with palm trees and sand colored objects.

The Uncharted Studio.  A tropical boutique specializing in beachwear, jewelry, artwork and hand made items. 

Places to Eat & Drink

There are many amazing cafes, restaurants and bars across Rincón, here are some of our favorites in Centro Puntas and Rincón Pueblo. 

Kahuna Burger Bar.  A local favorite near Sandy Beach. Come here for the mahi mahi and veggie burgers. Add a grilled pineapple for a tropical twist. Their bar is open late, offering rum punch for $4. 

Jakes Java House.  A road side coffee shop with smoothies and açaí bowls next to Sandy Beach. 

Jack’s Shack.  A roadside restaurant with breakfast tacos, egg sandwiches and iced coffee served from a food truck and trailer. 

Caddy’s Calypso.  A surf bar & restaurant at Playa Maria. Come here for their double rum cocktails, mahi mahi tacos, nachos & coconut shrimp. 

Tamboo.  A restaurant on Sandy Beach with Caribbean views, Puerto Rican seafood and tropical cocktails. Try the mahi ceviche, and watermelon tuna tartare with tostones. Order the hibiscus rum cocktail. 

La Rosa Inglesa.  A hotel restaurant perched on the hills overlooking Rincón. Come here for their brunch menu including flights of tropical mimosas, fresh fruit bowls, latin egg dishes and shrimp hollandaise Benedicts. 

The Beach House.  A restaurant, bar, hotel and surf shop with a line up of white chairs overlooking the forested coast behind Dome’s Beach. Come here to enjoy a drink, sunset, the view or all of the above.

Ola Sunset Cafe.  A cliffside restaurant overlooking Dome’s Beach and the Caribbean Sea. Come here to spot migrating whales and watch the sunset while eating empanadas and sipping on large tropical mojitos. 

La Sirena.  A nautical themed restaurant with sushi, seafood dim sum and cocktails served in classic tiki mugs.

Harbor Restaurant.  A popular beachfront seafood restaurant. Order a classic rum cocktail, try the whole fried red snapper and a side of crab tostones. 

La Marketa.  A restaurant and bar in downtown Rincon and the former location of the city’s market. They keep the market alive with tables of craft vendors on Sunday morning. Come to play darts and corn hole while sipping on a medella. We ordered the fish burger with yucca fries and mahi mahi skewers. 

Paletados.  Stop in for ice cold paletas (popsicles) on a hot afternoon. They offer tropical, fruit and dessert flavors with a range of toppings. 

Good to Know: Carry cash. Many businesses are cash or Venmo only.

Aguadilla 

Aguadilla is the entrance to the west side of Puerto Rico. It’s home to the west’s main airport, renowned beaches and daily sunset views.

Crash Boat Beach

Famous across the island for its concrete pier that juts out and branches into the bay. People of all ages line up to jump, dive and cannon ball from it into the calm blue water. On shore, people eagerly await grilled pinchos like skewered shark and buttered shrimp while sipping drinks including ice cold Medalla or piña colada made with Don Q. Vendors rent chairs and umbrellas for $5 a piece and offer tours of the bay on jets skis or inflatable banana boats.

Good to Know.  Recent hurricanes and tropical storms have collapsed parts of the pier. While not what it once was, it’s still a joy to jump from.

Aguadilla Pueblo

In the city center of Aguadilla, people stroll down a concrete promenade while others relax along the golden sand beach. At the same time, fishermen return from sea on small boats with the day’s catch and artists sell items including crocheted beachwear, home made candies and hand painted ceramics. 

Cerro Cabrera.  A colorful hillside community with dozens of painted houses and apartment rentals. 

El Parterre.  A plaza with a natural spring and stream passing through it in the center of the downtown. 

The Promenade 

Along the promenade are several kiosks and restaurants serving coffee, pastries, fried food, the fisherman’s catch, tropical cocktails, frozen paletas and a range of Puerto Rican cuisine. As night falls and the sun sets, locals in cars with souped up speakers and buses with equipped with train horns and lights roll into town for a vibrant night out. 

Mint.  A popular bar along the promenade. We’ve came here for the well made cocktails, plantain chip nachos and giant versions of games like jenga and connect four.

Sal de Mar.  A seafood restaurant across the street from Mint with a rooftop overlooking the ocean. Their menu specializes in dishes like Caribbean lobster, fried mahi mahi bites, ceviche and crab empanadas.

Aguada 

Aguada is city half way between Aguadilla and Rincon. It’s a peaceful place to stay and the perfect location to branch out from. The coastal route is lined with palm trees, painted sculptures, boutique hotels and restaurants. The town center is built around a tree lined plaza, flanked by a cathedral, Puerto Rican homes and narrow streets. 

Beaches & Restaurants 

Pico de Piedra Beach.  A spacious and quiet beach with several nearby restaurants and bars. It’s a tranquil place to relax for the morning or afternoon. Visit Platano Loco, a beach front restaurant where everything on the menu includes plantain. Try the plantain burger with large tostones for buns. 

El Galeón.  A pirate themed seafood restaurant with pirate ship paintings, a port hole bar and a pirate statue. It’s located across the street from the waterfront. 

Guayabos.  A beachfront restaurant on a small cliff with a patio overlooking Aguada Beach. Order dishes tapas style and try the octopus salad, ceviche, shrimp empanada and fried mahi mahi bites. 

Isabella 

Isabella is a town on the northwest corner of Puerto Rico. It’s home to protected beaches, cliffside restaurants & nature trails. It’s located about 30 minutes north of Aguadilla by car. 

Beaches & Restaurants 

Jobos Beach.  A sandy beach in a protected cove shielded from large Atlantic waves by a rocky  peninsula. Its turquoise waters are the perfect place to swim and surf in the remnants of broken waves. Palm trees line the shore, offering sunbathers a shaded reprieve from the tropical sun. Empanada vendors walk the beach while a series of restaurants and bars offer places to eat and drink. Shops and rental kiosks offer beach necessities, surf boards, chairs and umbrellas. 

Montones Beach.   A sandy beach protected by a large rock island. It’s a popular spot to snorkel and lounge onshore, especially for those staying at the beach’s colorful rental cottages.

Pozo De Jacinto.  A cliffside plateau with jagged rock formations and a large seaside cave. Waves crash into the cave, spraying mist into the air during large swells.

Mirador Paseo Tablado.  An elevated boardwalk meandering over steep sand dunes and through a pine forest. Its located between Jobos Beach and Montones Beach. 

Jobos Mojito Beach Bar & Restaurant.  A cliffside restaurant with panoramic views overlooking the Jobos Beach and the Atlantic Ocean. A chalkboard menu above the bar lists over 30 different types of mojitos. We ordered tamarind and passion fruit mojitos along with veggie paella for dinner from a menu including fried seafood, burgers and mofongo. 

La Playa

As the name suggests, La Playa is all about the beach. We stopped here for an afternoon at Balneario Tres Hermanos, a vast sandy and palm lined beach with calm swimmable waters. The beach also doubles as a camp ground for tents and trailers. Sea turtles are known to nest here. La Playa is about 15 minutes south of Rincon by car. 

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Chillo Frito Entero.  A fried red snapper served whole with crispy skin, tender meat and squeezed with lime. It’s usually accompanied by fried plantains like tostones, mofongo or amarillos. 

Mofongo.  Fried plantain mashed with garlic and butter. It’s often served plain or stuffed with an option of seafood. If prepared with bread fruit and yucca, it’s known as trifongo. 

Empanadillas.  Puerto Rican style fried empanadas stuffed with a range of fillings like octopus, conch, cod, shrimp, crap and pizza. 

Pinchos.  Grilled meats served on a stick often served at beaches or roadside kiosks. Our favorites are shark and shrimp. 

Mallorca.  A Puerto Rican pasty often shaped like a bun or swirled roll and dusted in powered sugar. Our favorite preparations are pressed with guava with cheese or egg and cheese. 

Coco Frio.  A cold and freshly opened coconut. Drink the coconut water inside then the sweet meat inside. Alternatively, enjoy it with coconut rum to create a tropical cocktail 

Rum.  Puerto Rico is unarguably the rum capital of the Caribbean with several distilleries and local brands served in bars across the island. Order it on the rocks, in a Pina Colada or other tropical cocktail. 

Medalla.  The island’s most popular local beer, recognizable by it’s small golden can. It has a light slightly nutty flavor and is served everywhere. Buy a 6 pack for the beach!

Getting Around

Fly into Aguadilla.  The airport has several flights per day and two small restaurants, usually open when flights are arriving or departing. Multiple car rental companies have lots nearby the airport.

Rent A Car.  Renting a car is an absolute must to get around anywhere on the west side of Puerto Rico. The entire west side of the island can be driven across in about 2 hours from north to south. We’ve had good experiences renting from Enterprise and Cabrera Car & Truck Rental. 

Places to Stay

Having spent two weeks on the western side of Puerto Rico over the years, we’ve found two go-to places to stay.

Puntas Tree House.  A bright pink house located in the middle of Cento Puntas across from Sandy Beach. The house has two floors of affordable apartment rentals, all decorated in tropical & beachy aesthetic. Book on Airbnb.

Aguada Oceanfront House.  A vacation rental located along the beach in Aguada. It has a spacious and simple interior with nautical decor and a large window with panoramic views of the sea. We fell asleep to the sounds of the waves. Book on Airbnb.

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

Having visited Puerto Rico nearly 20 times, we’ve experienced many places across the island. Though we don’t live here, we consider ourselves non-local experts and one day hope to call this beautiful island our home. Experience Puerto Rican culture in the capital city of San Juan. Explore the colorful and colonial streets of Old San Juan. Head to the southern coast of Caribbean Puerto Rico. Hike the El Yunque Rainforest in Eastern Puerto Rico. See the indigenous Taino sights of Central Puerto Rico. Get off the mainland to visit the islands of Culebra and Vieques.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around the western side of Puerto Rico including: 

More Beach Time.  Visit more beaches along the far southwest side of the island including: Buyé Beach, Parque Nacional Balneario Boquerón and Playa El Combate Beach. 

Isla de Mona.  A remote island halfway between Puerto Rico’s western coast and the Dominican Republic. It’s known at the Galapagos of the Caribbean for its isolation, diverse wildlife, coral reefs, caves, Taino petroglyphs and beach camping. 

Culebra and Vieques

The Puerto Rican Archipelago  

Culebra and Vieques are two islands off Puerto Rico’s eastern coast known for their sleepy vibes, tropical atmosphere, natural landscapes and Caribbean beaches. They’re lesser traveled to and equally as enchanting as other areas of Puerto Rico with unique character of their own.  

Culebra 

Culebra is a tiny island half way between “mainland” Puerto Rico and the US Virgin Islands. Things move a little slower here making it a great place to relax and appreciate life. The island has a small town with great restaurants, is home to multiple nature reserves and a variety of beaches. 

Things to Do

There are many things to do while exploring Culebra, primarily focused on outdoor activities like snorkeling, beach hopping, hiking and watching the sunset. 

Explore Dewey.  Culebra’s only town can be walked from end to end in minutes. Though small, its main road is home to restaurants, cafes, guest houses and the ferry terminal.  

Jump from the Bridge.  Join locals and jump from the Dewey bridge into the canal. Wear water shoes to protect your feet from the mussels and urchins.

Hector the Protector.  Walk along the rock break wall across from the ferry terminal and visit Hector the Protector, a planked wood human figure holding a lantern. 

Watch a Caribbean Sunset.  Many of the western beaches like Tamarindo, Punta Soldado or Carlos Rosario are peaceful places to watch the sunset below the Caribbean.

Visit the Beaches

Culebra has many great beaches all worth visiting for different reasons. There are white sand beaches, rocky beaches, remote beaches and unofficial nude beaches.

Flamenco Beach. Flamenco Beach is beloved for its powdery white sand shore that wraps around a turquoise blue bay. Come here to relax in under the heat of the Caribbean sun or shade of a swaying palm tree. The beach is famed for its graffitied tanks. home to a campground and offering of beach services and amenities. 

Flamenco’s Tanks.  Flamenco Beach is famed for its graffitied tanks. The shoreline surrounding the most iconic tank has been swept away by recent storms. Though still accessible, it’s now a pelican nesting ground. The second tank resides on a small hill nearby. 

Beach Services.  Flamenco Beach has a range of services and amenities making it easy to stay here all day. 

• Fees.  Parking costs $5 per vehicle and $2 per person. 

• Amenities.  Restrooms, showers and lockers are available 24/7. Lockers cost an additional fee to use. Bring your own hand soap for the restrooms. 

• Kiosks.  A series of modern kiosks offer food, beverages, ice cream, beach supplies and souvenirs. Try the traditional Puerto Rican snacks like empanadillas, bacalaitos, alcapurrias and pinchos. Pair them with a boozy tropical cocktail, local beer or fruit juice. 

• Rentals.  Two kiosks offer beach rentals including chairs, umbrellas, snorkel masks, life jackets and floaties.  

• Lifeguards.  Life guards watch over designated swimming areas. 

Flamenco Beach Camping.  Camping at Flamenco Beach is one of the most enjoyable ways to maximize beach time and experience Culebra’s pristine nature. We camped here for a long weekend on our most recent trip to the island. Ten under the stars, fall asleep to the sounds of crashing waves and wake up to the calls of roosters.

• Camping is DIY.  Bring your own gear: tent, sleeping bags, air mattress, hammock, beach chairs, flashlight, etc. 

• Where to Camp.  The official camping area is located after the kiosks and behind the beachfront tree line. It’s an expansive and shaded area with plenty of space to set up undisturbed. 

• Fees & Bookings.  Camping costs $35 per night per tent. Call ahead for a reservation or book at the beachfront ticket office. The office hours are from 8am-5pm. If showing up after hours, return the next day to register and pay. For reservations and information, call (787) 742 0700. 

Culebrita Beach. A crescent shaped beach with a narrow white sand shore and calm aquamarine water. It’s located on the island of Culebrita (Little Culebra) and requires a boat to reach. We sailed here on a catamaran with a group of friends through East Island Excursions. The tour brought us to coral garden off the coast of Culebra to snorkel before mooring off shore from Culebrita Beach. We spent the afternoon diving from the catamaran, dancing to Reggaeton music, swimming between the boat and shore, relaxing on the beach and enjoying an unlimited supply of rum cocktails. 

Playa Resaca.  This beach is as much about the journey as it is the destination. After a rigorous hike, you’ll reach a vast beach that you’ll likely have to yourself the entire day. The only swimmable area is the shallows at the far east end of the beach. Because it’s so remote, it’s the perfect place to get naked ;)

Hiking to Resaca:  

• Follow a paved road up the hill past the airport. There will be a parking lot at the top. Walk through the waist high grass behind the sign to locate the trail. 

• The further you descend, the more rigorous the trail gets. You’ll have to walk over boulders and duck under tree branches. We recommend wearing pants, hiking shoes and bringing a stick to knock away spider webs and thorny plants. 

• The trail ends at a mangrove forest just before the beach. There will be pink and orange ribbons, nautical debris and water bottles strung along the trees guiding you through it. Follow these markers, even if you think you’re on the path, or you will get lost! 

• The final stretch leads through a thicket of beach grape trees ending at a lone palm tree overlooking the beach. From the parking lot, it should take 45min to reach Playa Resaca. Plan to leave the beach at least 1 hour before sunset. 

Playa Zoni.  A white sand beach equally as beautiful as Flamenco. It’s located on the northeast side of the island, easily reachable by car though rarely that busy. Outside of free parking, there are no amenities.

Playa Punta Soldado.  A rocky beach great for finding conch shells. You’ll find a lot of fragments and occasionally a whole shell. Supposedly it’s a good spot to snorkel though we’ve never tried here.

Snorkeling Beaches 

Culebra is beautiful place to snorkel with multiple reefs easily accessible from shore. The beaches along the southwest coast of Culebra are the best on the island for snorkeling.

Reserva Natural Canal Luis Peña.  A canal and  protected nature reserve separating Culebra and Cayo Luis Peña. It’s home to coral reefs, sea grass meadows, an abundance of sea life and views of Caribbean sunsets. 

Playa Tamarindo Grande.  A secluded beach along the Canal Luis Peña, accessible via the Carlos Rosario Nature Trail. Just offshore is a vibrant reef with all types of lively and colorful corals. For the best snorkeling, enter the water near the green beach sign at the center of the beach, swim about 25 feet out, then follow the reef to the left. Water shoes are recommended due to jagged rocks near the shore.

Carlos Rosario Nature Trail.  A nature trail leading from the parking lot of Flamenco Beach to Playa Tamarindo Grande and Playa Carlos Rosario. The hike is relatively easy, leading over a hilltop crest, taking about 20 minutes one way. Along the trail, watch out for skittish lizards, hermit crabs and the occasional gardener snake. 

Good to Know.  Stay on the trail as unexploded munitions from military testing are believed to be in the area. 

Playa Tamarindo.  A beautiful beach with salt and pepper pebbles and a narrow stretch of white sand. This easily accessible spot is popular place for snorkeling. A small and colorful reef home with tropical fish resides just offshore to the far left while a vast meadow seagrass meadow begins about 50 feet out. Sea turtles, eagle rays and reef squids can be seen gliding through these waters.

Playa Melones.  A small and unassuming beach with a rocky shoreline and breathtaking coral reef. Enter the water at the center of the beach then swim out and towards the rocks on the right. Beneath the surface are large formations brimming with colorful corals and tropical fish. Green, purple and yellow corals sway in the currents as fish swim between and lurk within crevices. It’s some of the best snorkeling on Culebra!

Good to Know

• Snorkel Gear.  Bring your own snorkel gear or rent it from Blue Water or Culebra Divers, both located next to the ferry terminal. 

• When to Snorkel.  The sea life is most active before 10am and an hour before sunset. 

• Sunblock.  Wear reef safe sunblock to avoid harming the corals.

• Underwater Camera.  Capturing photos underwater is possible with most smart phones and a specialty case. We used the Pictar Waterproof Smartphone Case available on Amazon. 

Places to Eat and Drink 

For a tiny island, Culebra has a range of great restaurants, cafes and bars, mostly centered around Dewey.

Dinghy Dock.  A popular restaurant overlooking the island’s inner bay, frequented by boaters on inflatable dinghies. Come here for tropical cocktails and fresh caught seafood dishes like grilled Mahi Mahi and Chillo Frito Entero (whole fried red snapper). Feed the scraps to the giant tarpon waiting dockside.  

Mamacita’s.  A lively restaurant and bar located along the narrow canal in the middle of town. It’s a favorite spot of ours to come for boozy cocktails and sharable appetizers like coconut shrimp, mahi mahi bites and tostones. Like Dinghy Dock, come here to feed the tarpon.

La Cocina del Navigante.  An elevated restaurant overlooking the island’s inner bay. Their kitchen specializes in seafood dishes like Caribbean lobster, filets of red snapper, shrimp stuffed mofongo and paella! 

El Batay.  A roadside bar and local hangout located halfway between town and the airport. Come here to play a game of pool, sip on drinks or order one to takeaway.  

Pan Cafe.  A very popular bakery serving pastries, breakfast sandwiches and coffee. Try the Mallorca, a bready Puerto Rican pastry shaped into a swirl and sprinkled with powdered sugar. 

Hotel Kokomo.  The perfect go to for an inexpensive meal or quick lunch, especially while waiting for the ferry. We’ve ordered fish sandwiches and empanadas. 

Black Flamingo Coffee.  Our favorite breakfast spot on the island. Come here for their coffee, homemade sourdough toast and breakfast tacos.

Culebra Coffee.  A coffee shop selling mango and acai bowls, egg dishes and baked goods.

Good to Know:

• Most places accept credit cards however it’s good to have cash. There’s an ATM in town near the ferry terminal.

• Make reservations at places you want to eat. Service ends early and places can book up.

• Be patient, people and businesses move slower here.

Grocery Stores 

There are two grocery stores on the island. Colmado Carniceria Milka, located in town and Colmado Costa del Sol, located next to the airport. Both offer all the basics and necessities of any grocery store. They’re also good spots to buy snacks and drinks for the beach. 

Getting to Culebra 

By Ferry.  Take the Puerto Rico Ferry from Ceiba to Culebra. It’s an efficient and cost effective way of reaching the island. The ferry operates on a strict schedule. You need to buy tickets at least 1 week in advance, especially if traveling on a weekend. It can take anywhere from 1-2 hours depending on the type of boat and sea conditions. 

Getting to Ceiba.  Preschedule an Uber or Lyft. Rides typically cost around $100 one way. The drive from San Juan to Ceiba takes on average 1 hour 30 minutes depending on traffic and time of day. 

By Plane.  Book flights on a puddle jumper through Cape Air. Flights take less than 30 minutes from San Juan. Roundtrip tickets can cost between $200 and $300 per person. Due to cost, we typically opt for the ferry.

Getting Around Culebra

Golf Cart Rentals.  A golf cart is the most efficient way to navigating Culebra on your own. UTV Rental PR offers a range of rugged club cars for $70-$85 per day   

Jeep Rentals.  Having a Jeep is helpful for getting around on your own schedule but can be expensive. We’ve rented from Jerry’s Jeep Rental and Carlos Jeep Rental on past trips for around $150 per day. It’s often more adoptable to rent a golf cart or call a taxi when needed.

Culebra Taxis.  Local drivers provide taxi services around Culebra. The typical ride costs $20 for up to 4 people. Expect to pay in cash or by payment link. Here are some reputable taxi drivers. 

• Angel (787) 455 1892

• Damaris (787) 455 1893

• Abner (787) 237 5313

On Foot.  Though Culebra is a small island, getting around on foot outside of the town is difficult but not impossible. Many people are friendly enough to stop and give you a ride. Carry a flashlight when walking at night. 

Where to Stay 

Having visited Culebra three time, we’ve camped, stayed in Dewey and further away along the bay. 

Mamacita’s Guest House. A hub for activity on Culebra and a lively place to stay in the center of town. The rooms are simple but well equipped for a relaxing stay. Make sure to visit the restaurant and bar for dinner and drinks. Book on Airbnb. 

Oceanfront Villa.  A vacation rental with panoramic views the island’s inner bay. The villa has private suites and shared balcony. It’s located about 20 minutes on foot from Dewey or 5 minutes by car. Book on Airbnb. 

Vieques

Vieques is an island 6 miles off the coast of Puerto Rico. It’s home to a bioluminescent bay, free roaming horses, white and black sand beaches, turquoise swimmable water and marine reserves.  

Faro Puerto Mulas.  A small abandoned lighthouse overlooking Isabella Segunda. 

El Fortín De Conde Mirasol.  A small Spanish fort overlooking the town of Isabel Segunda surround a blue and orange painted museum. 

300 Year Old Ceiba Tree.  A sacred tree known for its age and impressive root structure. It’s located between the airport and Mosquito Pier.  

Mosquito Pier.  A mile long pier on the north side of the island. Come here to spot marine life including manta rays, sea turtles and jelly fish.

Paso Fino Horses.  The island is home to over 2,000 free roaming horses. They are tame and can be found walking the beaches, grazing in fields and along the road sides. Watch out for piles of horse manure. Various company’s offer riding tours along the beaches. 

Vieques National Wildlife Refuge.  A nature reserve that covers more than half the island and includes bays, mangrove forests, salt flats, hiking trails, beaches and coral reefs.

Things to Do 

Explore the Small Towns.  Vieques is home to two small towns on opposite sides of the island.

• Isabel Segunda. The main town on the north side of the island with the ferry terminal, grocery stores, restaurants, hotels and souvenir shops.

• Esperanza.  A beach town on the south side of the island with restaurants, hotels, tour companies and a range of beaches. 

Crab Island Rum Distillery.  Visit the island’s on rum distillery! Crab Island produces 14 month, 3 year and orange flavored rums. Most bars and restaurants on the island serve their rum. Go to Bili for a Rum Island Iced tea made from all three! 

Go Stargazing.  Given the remote location and lack of city lights, the sky is often dark for brilliant stargazing. Download the free Sky Tonight app to identify constellations, planets and distant stars.

Kayak in the Bioluminescent Bay (Mosquito Bay).  Recognized as the brightest bioluminescent bay in the world. We came here to kayak at night to experience the bioluminescence. Immediately after paddling away in our kayak, the water began to sparkle around us, our paddle illuminated vibrant streaks of bioluminescence and swimming fish left a glowing trail behind them. It was truly an unreal experience that felt like the Manta Ray in Moana or a patronus charm in Harry Potter. Book with Abe’s Snorkeling and Bio Bay Tours. They offer snorkeling tours across the island and kayaking tours in the bio bay and mangrove channels. 

Beach Hopping 

Rent a car and spend time beach hopping across the island. Vieques is home to numerous beaches ranging in size, swimmability and accessibility. The most popular and swimmable beaches are on the south side of the island. The most remote are located in the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge.

Bastimento Beach.  A long meandering beach with turquoise water, a sandy shore, coral reefs, a protected tide pool and snorkeling on the north side of the island.

El Gallito (Gringo Beach).  A roadside beach with a sandy shore, short palm trees and views looking towards the mainland of Puerto Rico and Culebra. 

Playa Negra.  A semi remote cliff side black sand beach. There is a small parking lot nearby Playa Negra Fine Foods. Follow a trail to get here (technically a stream) and walk for 15 minutes until reaching the beach. It’s not the safest for swimming due to rocks and currents. It’s located on the south side just west of Esperanza. 

Playa Caracas (The Red Beach).  A beach with white sand, palm trees, turquoise water and shard gazebos. It’s located in the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge.

Esperanza Beach.  A popular beach nearby town on the south side of the island with kiosks, restaurants, bars and kayak rentals.

Sea Glass Beach.  A small beach to collect handfuls of sea glass within minutes of beach combing. It’s located in the town of Isabel Segunda. 

Playa Pata Prieta (Secret Beach).  A secluded beach popular for swimming and snorkeling. It’s a 10 min drive east of Playa Caracas. 

Playa Chiva (Blue Beach).  A long powder white sand beach with calm with turquoise and navy blue water. Come here to swim and snorkel. It’s a 5 min drive east of Playa Pata Prieta. 

Escondida Beach.  A small beach with some snorkeling. It can frequently be covered in sea weed. Located a 15min walk east of Playa Chiva. 

Playa Plata.  A semi private white sand beach with crystal clear turquoise water for swimming and snorkeling. Located a 5min drive east of Playa Chiva. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Saint Voodoos Mar Azul.  A waterfront bar with a deck overlooking the Caribbean. Come here for cocktails and lite bites at sunset. 

Lazy Jacks.  A restaurant and bar near Esperanza beach for tacos, sandwiches, salads, beers and cocktails. 

Lydia’s Bakery.  A bakery with breads, sandwiches, pastry’s and coffee. 

Bili.  A restaurant with an impressive seafood menu including Caribbean lobsters, grilled mahi mahi and octopus. Come here for their Crab Island Long Island. 

Vieques Food Park.  A food truck park with several restaurants. We came to Rincon Cafe for breakfast and coffee. 

Bar La Nasa.  A beach front bar with cocktails, beer and music. 

Family Market Centró Ahorras.  A grocery store located in Isabella Seguda. Come here to stock up on water, beers and snacks before heading to the beach. 

Getting to Vieques 

By Air.  We booked a one way flight with Cape Air, from San Juan to Vieques. It’s a quick 20 min flight over the El Yunque rainforest and scenic way to travel. They offer multiple flights daily for around $100 one way. 

By Sea.  We booked our return trip on the Puerto Rico Ferry, from Vieques to Ceiba. From Ceiba we took an Uber to San Juan. One way ferry tickets cost $2 and the Uber costs around $100. 

Getting Around Vieques

By Car.  Vieques is a large island. The best way to get around, see all of the sights and explore is by renting a car. We booked with Maritza’s Car Rental for about $110 per day with insurance. 

By Taxi.  Taxis were readily available across the Island bringing people between Isabella Segunda, Escondida, the airport and accessible beaches. 

Where to Stay

Tropical Guest House. A beautifully decorated home in Isabella Segunda with a comfy bed, kitchenette, outdoor grill, beech chairs, umbrellas and snorkel equipment. Book here on Airbnb. 

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico 

Having visited Puerto Rico nearly 20 times, we’ve experienced many places across the island. Though we don’t live here, we consider ourselves non-local experts and one day hope to call this beautiful island our home. Experience Puerto Rican culture in the capital city of San Juan. Explore the colorful and colonial streets of Old San Juan. Head to the southern coast of Caribbean Puerto Rico. Hike the El Yunque Rainforest in Eastern Puerto Rico. Visit the surf towns along Western Puerto Rico. See the indigenous Taino sights of Central Puerto Rico. 

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips to Vieques including: 

Mt. Pirata Observation Post.  Hike to tropical summit of the tallest point on Vieques measuring nearly 1,000 feet above sea level. 

Horseback Riding on Vieques.  We have our eyes set on a beach sunset horseback riding tour. 

Old San Juan, Puerto Rico

Bienvenidos al Viejo San Juan

Old San Juan is an enchanting, romantic, vibrant and historic neighborhood of San Juan, Puerto Rico. The old town is lined with cobble stone streets, colorful colonial architecture, world famous cocktail bars, restaurants serving Caribbean cuisine and music playing during all hours of the day. It is rich in history, flanked by two fortresses and surrounded by a stone wall overlooking the North Atlantic. 

A Second Home

Puerto Rico has become a second home to us. From quick weekend getaways to month long trips, we’ve spent time exploring the island and immersing ourselves in so much of what it has to offer from the nature, cuisine and culture. This guide focuses on our time visiting and staying in Old San Juan. 

Neighborhoods & Streets

Calle San Sebastián.  A cobblestone street is lined with colorful and vibrant colonial architecture. It’s known for its bustling nightlife scene, famed cocktail bars and lgbtq+ friendly atmosphere. 

Calle San Francisco.  This street runs central through Old San Juan and is a good place to start exploring. There are plenty of restaurants, bars, cafes, shops, hotels, plazas and residences here.

Calle de la Luna.  Though all streets in Old San Juan are flanked with beautiful architecture, this one is one of our favorites to walk down. There are many colorful buildings, colonial balconies, unique door knockers and abandoned buildings that have been retaken by nature. 

Plaza das Armas.  Old San Juan’s historic town square with performers, a fountain, statues and pigeons. It’s a favorite spot of ours to grab a coffee and mallorca from the green gazebo in the northwest corner. 

Caleta de San Juan.  A romantic tree covered street lined with colorful colonial buildings, hole in the wall restaurants and wine bars. The cobblestone street leads uphill from the Puerta de San Juan to the historic Basilica of San Juan. 

La Perla.  A colorful seaside neighborhood located between the north wall of Old San Juan and the Atlantic Coast. Over the past years, the community in La Perla has turned their neighborhood into a destination filled with rustic bars, local hangouts and art. 

Sights & Museums 

Castillo de San Cristóbal.  This is one of the largest colonial military fortress in the Caribbean and marks the entrance to Old San Juan. You can easily spend a half day here exploring the barracks, fortress walls, guard towers and grounds. One of the fort’s hidden gems is a surviving drawing of Spanish ships drawn on the wall of a former prison cell deep with in the tunnels. 

Castillo San Felipe del Morro (El Morro).  This is the oldest colonial fortress in the Caribbean and a great place to learn about the history and strategic importance of Old San Juan. Similar to San Cristobal, you can spend an afternoon here exploring the different levels and sections. The fort is perched on the NW side of the old town. It’s accessible after crossing a large lawn known for flying Chiringas or kites and food carts selling tropical flavored snow cones called Piraguas. 

Pro Tip.  The receipt from one fort gets you access to the other on the same day you visit.

Paseo del Morro.  A romantic seaside promenade that follows the old town’s wall. It is a beautiful place to walk, watch the sunset and look out towards the sea. We we’re incredibly lucky to see the Green Flash from here. It passes La Puerta de San Juan, the original entrance to the walled city and connects Paseo de la Princesa to the Maria Magdelana Cemetery. 

La Casa Estrecha.  A narrow house, measuring about 5 feet wide, with a vibrant yellow facade. Adorned with the Puerto Rican flag, the building is an iconic symbol of Old San Juan.  

Calle Fortaleza. A street is filled with souvenir shops, restaurants and jewelry stores, ending at the Governor’s Mansion, La Forteleza. The end of the street is often decorated in an ever changing canopy of umbrellas, banners, flowers or lights. 

Paseo de la Princesa.  A palm lined seaside promenade along the south wall. There is a nightly market with salsa dancing, food trucks offering up fried foods and sweets, gazebos selling cocktails, and tented vendors selling homemade crafts.

Plaza del Quinto Centenario.  A plaza commemorating the 500 years since Columbus first voyaged to Puerto Rico. At its center is a tall totem made from fragments of clay pottery representing the violent first meeting between the indigenous Taino and European colonists. 

La Puerta de la Bandera.  A black and white painting of the Puerto Rican flag on the wooden door of a crumbling brick building. It symbolizes Puerto Rican resistance against injustice.

Parque San Francisco.  A small and hidden park nestled between the crumbling brick and plaster walls of the surrounding colonial buildings. The park offers a quiet place to relax and take a break while exploring the old town. 

Callejón de la Puerta con la Bandera. A large doorway at the end of a blue cobblestone alley with a vivid painting of the Puerto Rican flag. It’s a very popular photo spot for both tourists and locals. Recently an artist added a colorful mural of Puerto Rican artists Bad Bunny and Elizam Escobar to the adjacent door.

Maria Magdelana Cemetery.  A beautiful seaside cemetery with above ground tombs, a large mausoleum and monuments dedicated to the dead. Its location between La Perla and El Morro along the coast is strategic to carry the deceased souls across the ocean into the afterlife. 

Museo de las Americas.  This museum focuses on pre-colonial and modern art and artifacts, the colonization of Puerto Rico and the island’s African heritage.

Capilla del Cristo.  A small chapel built on the cliffside edge of the old town’s wall. It is dedicated to health and well being, commemorating the story of a man who plunged off the cliff while horse racing but survived. 

Things to Do

Hire a Photographer.  Hire a photographer to take photos of you around the old town during the morning or evening golden hours. We booked with Raul at Rolo Photo PR and couldn’t have been happier with the outcome! 

Fly a Chiringa. The ocean breezes from the lawn in front of El Morro make it a great location and fun Sunday afternoon pastime. Kites can be bought from street vendors adjacent to the lawn. 

Visit the Farmers Market.  Located in front of the San Juan Museum every Saturday morning. It’s a great spot to purchase local produce, fresh baked breads and flowers.

Sunset Harbor Boat Ride.  A sunset cruise on a large pontoon style boat around the harbor of Old San Juan with historical info, snacks, rum punch and music. Book Here!

Vamos al la Playa

Playa Peña.  A secluded beach in Old San Juan, located on the other side of Castillo de San Cristobal. It’s a cute sand and rock beach below the cliff in front of the capital. The water isn’t safe for swimming. 

Playa El Escambrón.  A sandy palm covered beach between Old San Juan and Condado. It’s a popular beach for swimming, snorkeling, grilling and sunbathing. The best place to snorkel is the protected cove next to the Caribe Hilton. Come here in the morning to spot sea turtles feeding in the seagrass and tropical fish swimming among the underwater sculpture garden. There’s also the ruins of a small fort, Fortín del Escambrón, nearby. 

Places to Shop

Spicy Caribe. A spice store with hot sauces, spices and vanilla made from locally grown ingredients. 

El Mundo Taino.  A souvenir shop with locally made home goods, artwork, jewelry and coffee. 

Hatian Gallery.  A shop specializing in handmade artwork, sculptures and jewelry from Puerto Rico and other Caribbean islands. 

Materia Prima.  An organic grocery store with local farmed Puerto Rican produce, provisions and meats. It has a coffee bar and is connected to a wine bar in the Hotel Convento. 

U Go Market. A grocery store with produce, snacks, beverages, alcohol, beach-ware and sunblock. 

John Napoli.  A kitchen supply store with a range of cookware and kitchen gadgets including Puerto Rican pilóns, calderos and large paella pans.

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Chillo Frito Entero. A fried red snapper served whole with crispy skin, tender meat and squeezed with lime. It’s usually accompanied by fried plantains like tostones, mofongo or amarillos. 

Mofongo. Fried plantain mashed with garlic and butter. It’s often served plain or stuffed with an option of seafood. If prepared with bread fruit and yucca, it’s known as trifongo. 

Empanadillas. Puerto Rican style fried empanadas stuffed with a range of fillings like octopus, conch, cod, shrimp, crap and pizza. 

Pinchos. Grilled meats served on a stick often served at beaches or roadside kiosks. Our favorites are shark and shrimp. 

Mallorca. A Puerto Rican pasty often shaped like a bun or swirled roll and dusted in powered sugar. Our favorite preparations are pressed with guava with cheese or egg and cheese. 

Coco Frio. A cold and freshly opened coconut. Drink the coconut water inside then the sweet meat inside. Alternatively, enjoy it with coconut rum to create a tropical cocktail 

Rum. Puerto Rico is unarguably the rum capital of the Caribbean with several distilleries and local brands served in bars across the island. Order it on the rocks, in a Pina Colada or other tropical cocktail. 

Medalla. The island’s most popular local beer, recognizable by it’s small golden can. It has a light slightly nutty flavor and is served everywhere. Buy a 6 pack for the beach! 

The Food Scene 

A huge part of the culture in Puerto Rico involves eating, drinking and getting together with others. With that in mind, there are so many great places to eat and drink. Having visited Old San Juan several times, we’ve been able to try out numerous restaurants, cafes and bars. 

Pro Tip. It’s best to make a reservation whenever dining out in Old San Juan. 

Restaurants 

La Garita.  A restaurant and bar serving Puerto Rican dishes and rum cocktails with a view overlooking La Perla. Ask for a Pina Colada made with a double shot of Don Q, Puerto Rico’s most popular rum. 

El Jibarito.  Another restaurant serving Puerto Rican dishes. Come here for the whole fried fish and mofongo. 

La Madre.  A Mexican restaurant with delicious tacos. Eat outside on the pedestrian tree-lined street. 

Cayo Caribe.  A small local chain of restaurants serving Caribbean seafood. Try the Salmorejo (stewed land crab and tomatos). 

Genisis.  A late night restaurant with a fusion of Caribbean and Spanish cuisine. We had paella and sangria. 

Ladis.  A famous seaside restaurant built into the cliff between OSJ and Condado. Come here for seafood, cocktails and ocean views.

Señor Paleta.  A popular spot to buy fruit and dessert popsicles mid-day or after dinner.

Puerto Criollo. A Puerto Rican restaurant with classics like fried snapper, stuffed mofongo and octopus salad. They also service inventive tropical cocktails in unique glasses.

Al Fresco Rooftop Wine & Tapas.  A quiet place with a rooftop patio in the middle of Old San Juan. Come here for lite bites and wine. We shared a cheese board and bottle of bubbly. 

Otras Cosas.  A large outdoor restaurant to come for lunch, dinner and live music. Try the whole Caribbean lobster and coconut filled with coconut rum. 

Mar y Rosa.  A newly opened rooftop restaurant with el fresco dining and an elevated menu. Come here for the panoramic views at sunset, tasty cocktails and seafood menu with Korean & Caribbean influences. 

El Champi.  A tapas restaurant offering Spanish style small plates, paella and charcuterie. It’s located on Caleta de San Juan, a romantic tree covered street.  It’s adjoined by El Rincón del Vino, a small wine bar with a broad selection of wines all nestled within a small interior courtyard. 

Atelier Rooftop Terrace.  A rooftop bar and restaurant at the Hotel Palacio Provincial. It offers sunset views and overlooks the neighboring basilica.  

Cafes & Coffee Shops 

Cuarto Estaciones.  A green gazebo located in the Plaza de Armas serving coffee and pastries. We often come here for our first breakfast while in town, sitting under the shaded patio, surrounded by potted plants and chirping birds. Our usual order consists of iced lattes with canela and Mallorca with guava and cheese. They’re cash only. 

La Carreta.  Come here for the variety of sweet and savory breakfast dishes. Try an egg sandwich on Mallorca and a mimosa made from freshly squeezed OJ. 

Caficultura.  A good spot for breakfast and coffee, have the Mallorca con Guayaba (guava).

St Germain Bistro & Cafe.  A vegetarian friendly brunch spot with pancakes, toasts, sandwiches and burgers. 

Mallorca. A bakery specializing in its namesake, Mallorca. It’s unmistakable by its sign spelling out Mallorca in large red letters.

787 Coffee.  A coffee shop brewing Puerto Rican grown and roasted coffee beans. We discovered them on the East Village of NYC and visited their location near Escambron Beach while in Old San Juan.  

Pilao Bakery-Cafe.  Bakery with large portion breakfasts and coffee. 

Bien Papaya.  A coffee shop with Mallorca, smoothies and smoothie bowls right by San Cristobal. 

Don Ruiz.  A cafe in the Museo de las Americas with fresh roasted coffee and bottled beer.

C.B Restaurant.  A breakfast and brunch spot in plaza colon. Try the Boricua Morning Mallorca. 

Cocktail Bars & Nightlife 

La Factoria.  A famous cocktail bar in a dimly lit old world interior, connected to multiple other bars. One of our favorite drinks to order here is the Peligroso, made with Ron de Barillito, Campari, spices and lime. 

La Cubanita.  Connected to La Factoria, this bar is offers equally as good and unique cocktails. Our favorite section is the hidden bar up the stairs and though a door to the right. 

El Desvio.  A candle lit cocktail bar hidden within the passageways of La Factoria 

El Batey.  A late night dive bar with graffitied walls, a pool table and lights covered in notes, cash and napkins left behind from past visitors.

La Casita.  A pink house and outdoor cocktail bar serving rum and tiki drinks overlooking the bay. It’s a nice escape from the busy streets or to end the night.

Colmado Cocteleria Tropical.  A bar on Calle de San Sebastián designed like a traditional Puerto Rican colmado (a local convenience store) with shelves of faux and vintage groceries and plantain decor. Sip on a cocktail while playing dominos or taking pictures in the photo booth. 

La Grieta.  A dimly lit cocktail bar specializing in mezcal and mezcal cocktails. There is limited seating inside however the bar spills out onto the cobblestone street with small tables and sofas.

La Sombrilla Rosa.  A popular gay bar on Calle San Sebastián. Bartenders serve in inexpensive drinks while Reggaeton music echos out onto the street. 

Barrachina.  The location where the Piña Colada was invented. Come here for the classic cocktail and stay for lunch or dinner in their courtyard. 

Cannon Club.  A dueling piano bar with live parrots, multiple levels and eclectic decor. This place is more about the drinks and unique atmosphere than the food.

La Verguenza.  This multi-level bar overlooks La Perla is the center of nightlife in OSJ. The nightly party spills out into the streets and continues early into the morning. 

Scryer Rum Barrelhouse & Rooftop.  A small batch rum distillery and cocktail bar in Old San Juan with a wall of barreled rum. We drank cocktails here made exclusively from their house distilled rum under candle light during a city wide black out. 

Cafe Darsenas.  A blue gazebo on the Paseo de la Princesa with affordable drinks and light bites. We often come here for a frozen sangria to-go. 

El Vino Crudo.  A hidden wine bar tucked away on Callejón Gambaro. They pour natural wines and serve Spanish tapas late into the night.

Places to Stay 

We’ve stayed at a range of places in Old San Juan including apartments overlooking the ocean, a private room in a rum baron’s mansion, a ruin style apartment and a boutique hotel. 

Casa Luna.  A boutique hotel with range of apartment rentals and a rooftop terrace. It’s located in the middle of Old San Juan on Calle de la Luna. Book Here!

Cozy Historic Ruin Apartment.  A small apartment built within the ruins of a crumbling building.The space has character and charm that exemplifies the old town. Book Here!

PH Apt in Old San Juan w/ Terrace.  A comfortable and spacious apartment with a large private terrace overlooking the old town’s cobblestone streets and colorful buildings. Book Here!

Live Like a Rum Baron in a 200 Year Old Mansion.  An elevated apartment with private rooms and cozy communal spaces in a renovated colonial building. Book Here!

Getting Around

On Foot.  Old San Juan is very walkable and by far the best way to see the city. Be careful of the narrow sidewalks and cobble stones. 

By Uber.  Use Uber to get to/from Old San Juan from the airport or San Juan proper. Ubers are typically inexpensive. The best place for pick up and drop off is Plaza Colon at the entrance of the old town. 

Free Shuttle.  There is a free “shuttle” aka a large golf cart the shuttles people a loop in the old town.

By Car / Parking.  Traffic gets congested in and around Old San Juan. The best place to park in Old San Juan is Dona Fella, garage on the south side of the Old Town. Parking typically costs $1 per hour.

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

Having visited Puerto Rico nearly 20 times, we’ve experienced many places across the island. Though we don’t live here, we consider ourselves non-local experts and one day hope to call this beautiful island our home. Experience Puerto Rican culture in the capital city of San Juan. Head to the southern coast of Caribbean Puerto Rico. Hike the El Yunque Rainforest in Eastern Puerto Rico. Visit the surf towns along Western Puerto Rico. See the indigenous Taino sights of Central Puerto Rico. Get off the mainland to visit the islands of Culebra and Vieques.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around Old San Juan including: 

San Sebastian Festival.  A massive festival and street party held throughout Old San Juan in January to mark the end of the holidays with performers, a parade, street food, music and dancing. 

Tomb of Juan Ponce de León.  The tomb of the decisive conquistador credited with founding San Juan. His tomb is located inside of the Catedral Basilica Menor de San Juan Bautista

Casa Blanca.  A 500 year old house in Old San Juan built for Ponce de Leon. It was converted into a museum with Spanish colonial artifacts.

San Juan, Puerto Rico

San Juan, Puerto Rico

San Juan is a tropical metropolis that’s equal parts city and beach with skyscrapers and homes lining the Atlantic coast. Come here to spend leisurely afternoons on a sandy shore, under an umbrella or at a beach club. Explore the city’s cultural side at art museums, graffitied streets, historic sights and rum distilleries. Celebrate life like a Puerto Rican with Reggaeton music, salsa dancing, traditional dishes, tropical drinks or a local beer. 

Neighborhoods & Streets

Condado.  A seaside neighborhood with skyscrapers, hotels, restaurants, bars and beaches.

Miramar.  A residential neighborhood with historic homes and buildings built in The Spanish Colonial Revival style. It’s central to Old San Juan and Condado. 

Santurce.  A large area of San Juan home to art museums, food truck parks and the nightlife hubs of Calle Cerra and La Placita. 

Ocean Park.  A trendy yet local neighborhood popular for its beach and variety of restaurants and nightlife. 

Calle Loíza.  Ocean Park’s main street for brunch spots, open air restaurants, cocktails bars, surf shops and Loíza Brinca, a famous corner building featuring the Puerto Rican flag.

Cataño.  A neighborhood a quick ferry ride across the harbor from Old San Juan with a waterfront boardwalk home to several restaurants and bars. The ferry operates from the cruise docks hourly throughout most of the day for just a couple of dollars. It’s a popular place to visit for the Bacardi Factory from. 

Piñones.  A food hub known for Puerto Rican and Caribbean cuisine just outside of San Juan. The main street, located along the Atlantic coast, is lined with dozens of restaurant, bars and kiosks. We hopped from place to place and ordered crab empanadillas, cod alcapurrias, coco frio and rum punch. 

Vamos a la Playa

Atlantic Beach.  A sandy beach great for swimming nearby the hotels in Condado. There are no public amenities (restrooms or showers) though vendors rent umbrellas and chairs for negotiable prices. There is frequently a gay section in front of The Tryst Hotel. 

Playita del Condado.  A beach located next to the Puente dos Hermanos between the Condado Lagoon and the Atlantic Ocean. The water is calm enough for swimming and snorkeling with chair rentals for lounging on the beach.

Ocean Park Beach.  This vast beach is probably the most popular in San Juan. Everyone from locals, tourists, families and couples come here. There are plenty of restaurants, marine sports and activities, chair and umbrella rentals and vendors selling drinks on the beach.

Numero Uno Beach Hotel & Restaurant.  A beach club located at Ocean Park Beach. Come here for a relaxing day under the shade of an umbrella or palm tree while watching kite surfers ride the wind and waves. Order the beach vibes package, it includes two chairs, an umbrella, bottle of bubbly and bag of chips and salsa.

Isla Verde Beach.  A large crescent shaped white sand beach with calm turquoise water, palm trees, beach rentals and hotels.  

Pine Grove Beach.  A beach between Island Verde and Ocean Park Beaches. It’s popular for beginner surfing with surf schools and rentals.  

Sights & Museums 

Fortín San Jerónimo de Boquerón.  A small fort at the mouth of the Condado Lagoon. The visiting hours are infrequent due to repairs post Hurricane Maria. It’s worth visiting if open. 

Puente Dos Hermanos.  The bridge crossing the Condado Lagoon connecting to Old San Juan. It’s beautiful to walk across with great views. There is also a ledge making it easy to jump from into the lagoon. The Condado side has a small sandy beach, Playita del Condado. 

Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico.  A well curated and diverse collection of Puerto Rican art and history. After touring the galleries, walk through the sculpture garden. 

Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Puerto Rico (MAC).  A contemporary art museum with rotating galleries specific to social movements, local artists and Puerto Rican heritage. 

Things to Do

Visit a Rum Distillery.  The two distilleries to visit are the Bacardi Factory or Ron del Barrilito. Both offer similar experiences. Bacardi is large scale production while Ron de Barrilito is small batch and higher end. Arrive to a welcome drink, learn about the history of each distillery, their processes of rum making and afterwards take a mixology class, sample aged vintages or simply order cocktails from the bar. Either way, expect to leave tipsy.  

SUP or Kayak in Laguna de Condado.  Tour companies based around the lagoon offer SUP and Kayak rentals for $20/hour. The lagoon is a boat free place to spot eagle rays, star fish and sea turtles. We booked though VIP Adventures Puerto Rico.

Dance Salsa.  We’ve taken two salsa lessons, learning the history and basics from our instructor, Angelina, while sipping on rum punch. Afterwards, we headed to a salsa bar in La Placita for dancing and drinking. Book Here!

Calle Cerra

Calle Cerra is a gritty street with large murals and graffiti covered walls. The surrounding neighborhood is home to many hostels, restaurants, cafes & bars. The area becomes a center for nightlife on weekends. Hundreds of people gather at in the street and at bars as live music and reggaeton echos throughout the neighborhood. Some of our favorite spots are:

Esquina El Watusi.  This bar is the heart of the nightlife scene in Santurce. Come here to join hundreds of people gathered in the street out front and ordering from the bar. Drinks are strong and inexpensive. 

Machete.  A bustling yet vibey cocktail bar with well priced drinks and a menu of flavorful bites. To drink, try the Vampiro for something smokey or House Daq for something fruity. To eat, order the ceviche and pulpo + fries! 

Botánico.  A spacious cocktail bar with an interior patio decorated in florals. Come here for an escape from the high energy atmosphere of other bars along Calle Cerra. Try the Flora or Mezcal Botanical. 

Pro Tip.  Wear pants and shoes to avoid being turned away at bars.

La Placita

La Placita is a cultural hub. It is a place to buy local produce during the morning, where elderly locals gather during the day and an energetic place to meet people, drink late into the evening and dance Salsa. The plaza is surrounded by lively restaurants and bars.

The Produce Market.  Located inside the Plaza de Mercado in the center of the plaza. We used a machete to cut plantains from the bunch, picked out limes to make our own cocktails and selected a ripe papaya for lunch. 

La Tasca del Pescador.  The place to go for seafood. In the heart of La Perla. We ordered the snapper, squid Ink rice & grilled prawns.

Asere Cubano Kitchen and Bar.  A fusion of Cuban and Puerto Rican cuisine with a roof top bar overlooking the plaza. 

La Alcapurria Quemá.  A restaurant and bar specializing in the famed Puerto Rican street food, alcapurria. We ordered a variety including ncluding crab, cod and vegetarian. 

Jungle Bird.  A cocktail bar serving tiki and tropical island drinks.

Taberna Los Vázquez.  An energetic salsa bar with live music and cheap drinks. 

Boronía en la Placita.  A restaurant serving Creole cuisine like mofongo, gumbo and seafood.

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Chillo Frito Entero.  A fried red snapper served whole with crispy skin, tender meat and squeezed with lime. It’s usually accompanied by fried plantains like tostones, mofongo or amarillos. 

Mofongo.  Fried plantain mashed with garlic and butter. It’s often served plain or stuffed with an option of seafood. If prepared with bread fruit and yucca, it’s known as trifongo.

Empanadillas.  Puerto Rican style fried empanadas stuffed with a range of fillings like octopus, conch, cod, shrimp, crap and pizza. 

Pinchos.  Grilled meats served on a stick often served at beaches or roadside kiosks. Our favorites are shark and shrimp. 

Mallorca.  A Puerto Rican pasty often shaped like a bun or swirled roll and dusted in powered sugar. Our favorite preparations are pressed with guava with cheese or egg and cheese. 

Coco Frio.  A cold and freshly opened coconut. Drink the coconut water inside then the sweet meat inside. Alternatively, enjoy it with coconut rum to create a tropical cocktail.

Rum.  Puerto Rico is unarguably the rum capital of the Caribbean with several distilleries and local brands served in bars across the island. Order it on the rocks, in a Pina Colada or other tropical cocktail. 

Medalla.  The island’s most popular local beer, recognizable by it’s small golden can. It has a light slightly nutty flavor and is served everywhere. Buy a 6 pack for the beach!

Places to Eat & Drink

From beachfront restaurants to food truck parks and cocktail bars, there is no shortage of great places to stop for a meal or drink in San Juan. Some of our favorites are: 

Cafes & Coffee Shops

Wicked Lily.  A beach front bar and restaurant at The Tryst Hotel. Come here for brunch, rent a pink umbrella and join the other gays soaking up the sun. 

Café Comunión.  A coffee shop and breakfast spot. Come for the coffee, open faced sandwiches and fresh sugar glazed donuts

Tostado.  A coffee shop breakfast spot. Come for the coffee, tropical fruit, French toast and egg dishes.

Musa.  A funky brunch spot with egg dishes, French toast and mimosas 

La Coffeetera.  A breakfast spot with dishes like pancakes and egg scrambles. Order the eggs Benedict on a Hawaiian roll or the stuffed avocado. 

Restaurants

La Cueva Del Mar.  A Puerto Rican seafood restaurant with a range of dishes like whole fried red snapper, ceviche, creole style shrimp, fish filets and fried plantains. 

Bottega.  We came for the inventive cocktails and music. We had the Safe Flight, Ritmo Tropica, El In-Muerto and shared the octopus salad. Lucha Libre DJ really added to the vibes of the night.

Casita de Miramar.  A romantic restaurant serving elevated Puerto Rican cuisine. We dined here one evening on their outdoor porch. For our meal, we enjoyed plantain soup, mini bacalaitos, arroz de montosteo cooked with house made pique, a whole fried red snapper, and for dessert, tres leches made with coquito.

Paulina Escanes Gormandize.  We’ve dined here twice, for bunch and dinner, tasting a range of items across the menu including mallorca with egg, cheese and avocado, corn bread soufflé, tacos and Tiradito (Peruvian sashimi) on a tostada. 

Container Bar.  One of several waterfront restaurants and bars in Cataño nearby the ferry terminal. Try the crab salad arepas and enjoy a medalla. 

Food Truck Parks.  Quite popular across Puerto Rico, three go-tos in San Juan are Tresbé, Lote 23, and Miramar Food Truck Park.

La Marqueta.  An open air food hall with ocean views and palm trees. It’s a great spot to grab a bite or drink after visiting the lagoon or beach. 

Cocktail Bars & Nightlife 

Pinaloca.  A walk-up window in Condado serving Pina coladas in pineapples. 

Oasis.  A gay bar and tapas restaurant near Condado beach with late night music and dancing 

El Bar Bero.  A barbershop themed bar with barber chairs, mustache art and smokey cocktails.

Kane Rum Bar.  A tiki bar in Condado with lux tropical vibes, cocktails and bites. Order a classic tiki drink like the Zombie, Mai Tai or Painkiller along side light bites like a vegan Hawaiian pizza, tropical ceviche or sesame seared tuna.

Places to Stay 

We’ve stayed at a range of places in San Juan including airbnbs like a private room at a hostel and an apartment style inn. 

Casa Santurce Hostel.  A hostel with dorm and private rooms in San Juan’s arts district. It offers affordable rates and near nightly activities. Book Here!

Casa del Caribe Inn.  A small family run hotel in the heart of Condado. It’s large apartment style rooms are perfect for a weekend getaway. Book Here!

Cool Tripper’s Inn.  A boutique hotel near Ocean Park Beach with tiny yet well designed apartments. Book Here!

Getting Around 

On Foot.  Old San Juan is best explored on foot! You can walk straight from end to end in less than 20 minutes. Spend time walking though the streets, admiring the architecture, discovering bars, dancing in the plazas and finding neighborhood gems.

By Shuttle.  There is a free shuttle or multi row golf cart that weaves through the streets southern streets of Old San Juan and along the perimeter towards El Morro. 

On Scooter.  There are rental scooters available around the streets of San Juan. Download the Bird app and scan the scooter’s QR code to ride. 

By Uber.  Ubers are the best way to get to and from the airport and throughout San Juan.

By Car / Parking.  Rent a car if you plan on exploring outside of San Juan. Though expensive, it’s still the most affordable way to get around.

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

Having visited Puerto Rico nearly 20 times, we’ve experienced many places across the island. Though we don’t live here, we consider ourselves non-local experts and one day hope to call this beautiful island our home. Explore the colorful and colonial streets of Old San Juan. Head to the southern coast of Caribbean Puerto Rico. Hike the El Yunque Rainforest in Eastern Puerto Rico. Visit the surf towns along Western Puerto Rico. See the indigenous Taino sights of Central Puerto Rico. Get off the mainland to visit the islands of Culebra and Vieques.

Panama City, Panama

Panama

Panama is a Central American country at the crossroads of North and South America. It’s home to Caribbean beaches, Pacific marine reserves, lush rain forests, an urban metropolis, the Panama Canal and a diversity of cultural backgrounds.

Panama City

Panama City is a sprawling city on the Pacific side of the country with towering skyscrapers, colonial architecture and historic ruins. It’s a starting point to reach many of the country’s nature reserves, and hub for other destinations across Central and South America. 

Casco Viejo 

Panama City’s old town is a beautiful colonial era neighborhood built on a peninsula overlooking the Panama Bay with walled sections, seafood restaurants, rooftop bars, clothing shops, lush plazas, free museums, beautiful cathedrals and cultural sights. 

Elegant Architecture 

Walking down the narrow brick streets with the rails of the old street cars still visible feels like stepping through a time capsule. The elegant architecture is akin to the historic neighborhoods of Madrid with ornate facades painted in muted neutrals and pops of color, thin balconies decorated with tropical plants, warmly lit antique lanterns and clay tiled roofs. Some buildings have been well preserved while others juxtapose them as ruins now overtaken by nature. 

Sights 

Plaza Herrera.  A romantic and scenic plaza surrounded by elegant architecture, luxury hotels, boutiques and restaurants. 

Plaza de la Catedral.  A brick paved plaza in the center of Casco Viejo with a gazebo, trees and park benches. It’s flanked by the La Catedral de Panama, colonial architecture and museums. Artists often come here in the early morning with sketchbooks to draw the sights around the plaza. 

La Catedral de Panama.  The city’s main cathedral built with an ornate stone facade, large wooden door and two white bell towers. 

Cintra Costera.  A road and walkway several miles along the coast from the modern financial center to the old town of Casco Viejo with city views.

Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús.  The stone and brick ruins of a former church. All that remains is the crumbling facade, walls and interior courtyard

Convento de Santo Domingo.  The crumbling brick ruins of a historic convent and church with an adjacent chapel hosing a museum of religious artifacts. 

Iglesia Nuestra Señora de La Merced.  A stone facade cathedral with two simplistic white bell and clocktowers. We passed by here when the bells were in full swing letting out dongs heard across the old town. 

Paseo de las Bovedas.  A scenic waterfront walkway along the colonial wall in Casco Viejo. There is a monument dedicated to the history of Panama, views of the modern city and a floral covered walkway with vendors selling handicrafts and souvenirs. 

Corridor La Quince.  An arts district outside of Casco Viejo with graffiti and murals covering the buildings & string lights draping the streets. Many of the colonial buildings are in disrepair while others have been renovated to modern standards. 

Plaza Carlos V.  A small garden plaza overlooking the Panama Bay dedicated to one of the first Spanish rulers of Panama credited with the idea of creating the Panama Canal. Guna women often sell their Molas and other handcrafted products from here.

Plaza Medio Baluarte.  A small but photogenic plaza with colorful colonial buildings, a central fountain and an overlook along the wall. We watched as artists painted the city scenery early one morning. 

Plaza Simón Bolívar.  A plaza with a large monument dedicated to Simón Bolívar, the leader who lead several Central and South American countries to independence from Spain. The plaza is flanked by a cathedral and restaurants.

Amador Causeway.  A palm lined road and walkway connecting three islands near the mouth of the Panama Canal. Come here to walk the scenic 3km road, watch ship waiting to enter the Panama Canal and admire views of the city skyline. Along the road are bike rentals, restrooms, overlooks and historical placards. Towards the islands are numerous restaurants, hotels, a marina and cruise terminal. 

Miraflores Visitor Center.  A lock system and lookout on the Panama Canal. Come watch ships pass through, learn about the canal’s history and watch a movie about it narrated by Morgan Freeman. 

• Good to Know: Plan your visit around when ships pass through the locks. Not knowing that ships pass through at infrequent times, the next one wasn’t for over 3 hours when we visited. 

• Getting Here: The visitor center is reachable by bus from Albrook Station or taxi. It can take a little over an hour to reach from Casco Viejo by bus or 20min by car.

Museums 

Panama Viejo.  An archeological park with the crumbling brick and stone ruins of the original colonial Panama City. The city had many houses, multiple churches, roads, a grand plaza, market, cistern, bridge and tall bell tower. It was left to ruin after a major earthquake, multiple fires and pirate attacks. Come here to climb the 116 step tower with lookouts over the ruins, modern day skyline and Pacific Ocean. The view offers a unique contrast to the bustling city surrounding it.

Museo de la Mola.  A museum dedicated to the colorful and intricately patterned textiles made by Panama’s indigenous Guna Women. The well curated exhibit explains the cultural importance of the women and their textiles, how they’re handcrafted and the stories behind them. It also features an interactive sound and light exhibit, an origami station and a magnetic wall to add to the museum’s Mola. The museum is free to enter. 

Museo de la Historia.  A small history museum in Casco Viejo about the founding of Panama and its independence from Spain and Colombia, the diverse cultures that make up Panama and the history of the Panama Canal. Come to see one of Panama’s first ever flags, a constitutional manuscript, and the national anthem. It’s free to enter. 

Mi Pueblito.  An open air museum set up like small towns with reproductions of colonial buildings and a nature trail with reproductions of thatched structures from Panama’s indigenous tribes. When we visited, there were many food vendors set up selling local and local dishes and snacks. 

Parks

Parque Natural Metropolitano.  A tropical nature park with hiking trails and scenic overlooks of Panama City’s skyline. Come here to spot monkeys, sloths, agoutis and humming birds. We spent over 3 hours walking the trails and spotting wildlife through our binoculars. 

Trails  

• El Roble. A 0.7km trail and road leading from the visitor center to the Mono Titi trail 

• Camino de Mono Titi.  A 1.2km trail through the forest ending with views of Panama City’s skyline. 

• La Cienaguita.  A 1.1km trail through the lush forest leading from end of the Mono Titi trail back to the El Roble trail.  

• Los Caobos.  A 0.8km trail branding off of the El Roble trail and ending at the Visitor Center. This trail passed through dense forest where we spotted monkeys, a sloth and agouti. 

• Getting Here: The park is reachable by bus one stop on the bus from Albrook Station. It can take a little over an hour to reach from Casco Viejo.

Cerro Ancon.  A paved nature trail leading from Mi Pueblito to the city’s tallest natural point. Come here to overlook Casco Viejo, the city’s modern skyscrapers and ships passing through the Panama Canal. 

Soberania National Park.  A large national park in the center of the country located along the Panama Canal. We came here hoping to hike, spot wildlife and watch ships on the Canal. 

Unfortunately after hours of trying to reach certain sights in the park via bus, on foot and Uber, we learned many of the park’s activities are run by private resorts with high ticket prices, require advance reservation or are inaccessible. Tired and a little defeated, we decided to return to Panama City and make the most of our day. 

Markets 

Mercado San Felipe Neri.  A food market with butchers selling locally farmed meats and vendors selling locally grown produce, fruits, eggs, grains, herbs, oils and juices. We shopped for a week’s worth of groceries to cook with at our Airbnb. 

Mercado de Mariscos.  A seafood market with vendor selling piles of whole fish on ice, trays of shrimp, live crab and lobster, queen conch and mixed seafood. We bought a 2 lb Corvina, Panama’s favorite fish, and fried it in traditional methods. Opposite of the market is a second building with restaurants and vendors cooking up the day’s fresh catch. Here we ordered Caribbean shrimp, coconut rice and locals beers from Restaurante Allison.

Avienda Central.  A pedestrian street stretching from Cinco de Mayo station to Casco Viejo  with commercial shops, grocery stores, restaurants, cafes and street vendors selling produce, especially plantains stacked on tables and pineapples in the backs of trucks. 

Where to Eat & Drink 

Casco Mar.  A restaurant along the seaside of Casco Viejo with a Spanish style tapas and paella menu. We sat outside listening to the waves and sounds of the city. To eat, we shared the plantains, passion fruit ceviche, white fish stuffed peppers, coconut flan and the most refreshing mojitos. 

El Santuario.  A very romantic and higher end restaurant built within the ruins of a former monetary. The interior is defined by its exposed stone walls, brick arches, high ceilings, terracotta tiled and patterned wood floors. The menu specializes in Panamanian and Spanish dishes. We shared a seafood paella with scallops, langoustine, mussels and calamari. To drink, we each ordered a glass of red sangria.  

Snack Shack.  A beautiful restaurant in Casco Viejo. W ordered a breakfast bowl of tropical fruits (mango, pineapple, banana and papaya) with a coconut cream sauce as well as a traditional breakfast with fried eggs, toast, potatoes and avocado. There is a Tiki Bar in the garden area at the back of the restaurant. 

Café Unido Casco Viejo.  An old town coffee shop and cafe with Panama grown and roasted beans. 

Vista Corona Panama.  A tropical rooftop restaurant and bar with palm trees, tiki torches, house music, a bar built from a VW bettle and views of the old towns rooftops and spires. We came here to relax with a cocktail after a long day of hiking and busing. Try the rum cocktails like an Old Cuban and Tobaga.

Tantalo Rooftop Bar.  A rooftop bar in Casco Viejo with cocktails and local beers. We came here for sunset drinks overlooking the city’s terracotta roofs, cathedral towers and modern skyscrapers across the bay. Fittingly, we ordered a drink called, Noche en el Casco (Night in The Old Town). 

Pedro Mandinga Rum Bar.  A warmly lit rum bar with a wooden interior and old world charm. The bar features rums from countries across the Caribbean and Central America including Panama and their own distillations. Try a glass neat, order a flight of rums, a classic cocktail or

VIP.  A boutique and juice bar connected to Monos con Arte. Order a fresh Pepa Fria (cold coconut) to enjoy while walking around the old town. 

Where to Shop 

Casco Viejo is a very fashionable place with well dressed locals and tourists, boutiques and clothing shops selling Panama hats, linen clothes, colorful outfits and items made with tropical patterns and natural materials. 

Boho Shack.  A resort style street wear boutique with patterned shirts, shorts and pants. We bought a palm embroidered linen shirt! We’ve also visited their location in Cartagena where the brand is based. 

Bellezas de Panama.  A shop selling Panama hats, hand woven Molas and various souvenirs. We found this location to have the best selection and most affordable authentic Panama hats. The typical price is $40-$45 but the shop owner sold ours to us for $30. 

Mansion Herrera Clothing Shop.  A boutique clothing shop with elegant linen clothes and custom Panama Hats. 

Lu Maca Coffee Shop & Store.  A cafe and clothing store with tropical shirts, accessories and a small selection of Panama Hats. 

The San Blas Islands 

The San Blas Islands are a series of many low lying islands and shills on the Caribbean side of the country. They are a tropical paradise for beach hopping, snorkeling and learning about the Guna Yana indigenous community.

The Guna Yana Indigenous People.  The region is an autonomous zone in Panama home to and managed by the Guna Yana. While here, it’s common to see islands covered in palm reed and thatched houses, women wearing traditional Molas and fishermen paddling between islands in dugout canoes. 

Touring the Islands.  We voyaged into the sea passing palm covered islands, looking back to see views of Panama’s mountains as the spray of the sea misted across our faces. 

Private Island.  After a scenic boat ride, we arrived at a beautiful private island covered in palm trees and surrounded by sandy shores with vibrant blue water and patches of seagrass. 

Sand Bar.  Two hours later, our guides brought us to a shallow sand bar with crystal clear water, star fish and a small coral reef to snorkel above.

Dog Island.  In the early afternoon, we arrived a an island with a sunken ship taken over by a thriving reef with all types of colorful corals and tropical fish. On shore, we were each served a whole fried corvina fish with patacones, fresh fruit and a local beer. 

Isla Diablo.  Towards the late afternoon, we visited one more island for beach time and tropical drinks before returning to Panama City. 

Getting Here:  We booked a tour with Panama San Blas Tours through Viator. Our guide picked us up at 5:15am and drove us 3 hours across the country through verdant forest and hilly terrain to reach the Caribbean coast and San Blas Islands. The last 30min of the drive are nauseating and extremely curvy with steep hills. Overall, the full day tour was incredibly memorable, very relaxing and well organized. 

Taboga Island

The City of Taboga.  Taboga is a colorful town built into the lush hillside of the island with laidback vibes, beaches and hiking trails. Here, locals drive around on golf carts and say hola (hello) or buenas (short for good day) as they pass by. The narrow streets and alleyways are lined with flowering trees and bushes with many light boxes housing statues of the Virgin Mary.

Playa La Restinga.  A clean sandy beach that bridges Taboga and Morro Islands with views of the ship dotted harbor and Panama City skyline in the distance. The shore is covered in pink and white sea shells seen as decor on houses across the island. There are vendors selling beachwear, serving piña coladas in pineapples, preparing fried seafood and renting umbrellas, lounges and boats.

Sendero de Tres Cruzas.  Following the winding walkways up the hillside, we reached the trail head. The trail leads deep into nature so much so that you forget about that a sprawling metropolis is still nearby. As we hiked through the humid forest, we heard the sounds of breaking of branches, the falling of fruit, bussing insects and squawking birds. Along the way, we spotted tarantula, numerous neon green and black poison tree frogs, large iridescent blue butterflies, skittish lizards and spiraling vortexes of vultures. 

Cerro El Vigía.  Sendero de Tres Cruzes leads to an uphill but easy to walk road to the island’s summit, Cerro El Vigía. From the summit, the town of Taboga is dwarfed by the panoramic views of the lush island, hundreds of ships anchored in the bay and city beyond.

Getting Here:  Visiting Taboga is an easy day trip from Panama City. We took the Taboga Express Ferry from the Amador Causeway. Along the 30min boat ride, the ferry passes dozens of anchored freighters and ships from all over the world waiting to enter the Panama Canal. 

What to Eat & Drink 

Cuisine 

• Ceviche.  White fish cured in lime juice with peppers, red onion and cilantro. It’s one of the most poplar dishes seen at restaurants across Panama. 

• Corvina.  A white fish popular in Panama. It’s often grilled or fried whole. 

• Paella.  A pan rice dish cooked in a pan with broth, spices, veggies, and meat. It’s also called One Pot on the Caribbean side of the country. 

• Patacones.  Twice fried and smashed plantain.

• Rice & Beans.  The classic Central American dish made from the two ingredients with spices. 

• Hojaldra.  Fried dough often served at breakfast.

National Beers 

• Balboa.  A semi nutty bear similar to a Modelo. 

• Panamá.  A light beer similar to a Bud Light. 

• San Felipe.  A pretty standard and easy drinking lager. 

Where to Stay 

La Manzana.  A large mixed use building with modern apartment rentals, artist studios and a co-working space. It’s a quick 10 minute walk through the arts district to Casco Viejo. We stayed in well equipped and designed a studio here during our time in Panama City. Book here on Airbnb. 

Getting Around

By Metro.  Panama City has a very modern and efficient metro system with two lines crossing town. We took the metro from the airport to just outside of Casco Viejo neighborhood. 

By MetroBus.  Buses are the most economical way to navigate the Panama City though inefficient. Expect to wait a minimum of 30 to 45 minutes for most lines. 

Albrook Station.  Panama’s Central Terminal for the metro and buses. City buses from here are generally efficient and affordable. There are routes from here to destinations across Panama. 

Tarjeta Recargable Para Metro y Metrobus.  Buy a re-loadable card at any metro station for $2. Fares cost around $0.25 to $0.50 for both metro and metrobus. 

Yellow Cabs.  Taxis are all over the city. Drivers looking for fares will often tap their horn looking for passengers as they drive around the city. 

Uber.  A secure alternative to taxis. Fares cost $1-$10 to get around the city depending on distance and time of day or $20-$30 to/from the airport. 

On Foot. Casco Viejo is very walkable. Any further distances will require public transit or an Uber. 

Panama Stop Over 

We booked our flights with Copa Airlines taking advantage of their stopover program when transiting through Panama City. The airline paid for our flight to Panama City in route to your our destination. Stopovers can last anywhere from a minimum of 24 hours to a maximum of 7 days. We stayed the full 7 days. This saved us hundreds of dollars on flights and allowed us to visit a county that’s been on our list for years! 

Good To Know

• Currency:  Panama uses the Panama Balboa and US dollar interchangeably. They are valued equally.

• Toilets:  Like many places in Central and South America, the plumbing can’t handle toilet paper. If there is a bin next to a toilet, that’s where it’s intended to go.

• Language:  Spanish and English are widely spoken by most people, restaurant menus and most museums have descriptions in both languages. 

• Ticket Prices:  The costs for foreign tourists at most sights and museums are about 20-30% higher.

• Tipping:  10-15% is standard for tipping

• Safety: We found Panama to be a very safe country. People are friendly & helpful. There is a strong tourist police and military presence throughout Panama City, especially the old town, likely due to the president’s residence being here.

• Tourism:  We did not come across a single American tourist. Many people visiting came from across Panama and other country’s in South America. 

• LGBTQ:  Panama is a very welcoming  country to the LGBTQ community. We saw many other gay couples, travelers and tour operators. 

For Next Time…

We loved our time in Panama and with Copa Airline’s Stopover Program, we will certainly be returning. When we do, we hope to visit more areas along the Pacific and Caribbean coasts. 

Coiba National Park.  A bio reserve with beaches, reefs and rainforest. Come to hike the rainforest, snorkel with marine life, swim with whale sharks, surf pacific waves, spot tropical birds, monkeys and sloths. 

Bocas del Toro Archipelago.  A chain of 300 plus Caribbean islands with beaches, coral reefs and surfing spots. It’s hub for Afro-Caribbean cultures with calypso, reggae and soca music and cuisine made from seafood cooked in coconuts and seasoned with spices. Popular islands to visit are Colon, the Bastimentos and Carenero.

Eastern Puerto Rico

La Isla del Encanto  

Puerto Rico is known as La Isla del Encanto, which translates to The Island of Enchantment. Eastern Puerto Rico is home to golden sand beaches, bioluminescent bays, verdant rainforests and waterfalls.

El Yunque National Forest 

El Yunque is home the island’s only rainforest. The landscape is full of lush tropical vegetation, waterfalls with natural pools, hiking trails, lookout towers, tree snails and frogs. Here are a list of sights and trails in consecutive order past El Portal Visitor Center.  

La Coca Waterfall.  An 85ft tall waterfall streaming down the face of a large rock. It’s visible from the roadside waterfall shortly after entering El Yunque. 

Yokahú Tower.  An cylindrical observation tower perched on a clearing overlooking the rainforest. It’s located less than 1km past La Coca Waterfall.

Juan Diego Falls.  A series of small waterfalls with natural swimming pools below. The water is cold and refreshing! The falls are reachable via a short and often muddy trail from the roadside. 

Sierra Palm Picnic Area.  The only restaurant in El Yunque with Puerto Rican dishes and drinks. It’s a great lunch option and picnic spot while in the forest. 

Baño de Oro.  A historic swimming pool fed by rainwater and streams. It’s no longer swimmable, however pathways lead through the gardens surrounding it.

Mt Britton Trail.  A thinly paved trail leading through the rainforest to Torre Mt Britton. It takes about 45 minutes from the trailhead to reach the peak.

Torre Mt Britton.  An observation tower at El Yunque’s second highest peak with cool breezes, rolling clouds and sweeping views of the Caribbean and Atlantic coasts. 

Mt Britton Spur Trail.  A trail connecting the Mt Britton Trail to El Yunque Trail just before the trail to Torre Mt Britton. 

El Yunque Trail.  The rainforest’s longest trail leading to El Yunque’s highest peak. It can be picked up from the Mt Britton Spur Trail. It takes an additional 45 minutes to reach the peak. 

El Yunque Peak.  Often within the clouds, the peak is surrounded by a forest of foliage with stunted growth due to the heavy rain, wind and erosion. There is also an abandoned medical building and series of antenna. 

Good to Knows:

• Bring water and snacks.

• Wear hiking shoes with good treads, rocks are slippery (speaking from personal experience).

• The temperature gets colder the higher in altitude you hike.

• Expect it to rain, bring a raincoat or umbrella and change of clothes.

• Rent a car. There are no Ubers or taxis allowed into the park. The drive is 1 hour from San Juan.

• Take a photo of the map sign outside the visitor center before hiking.

• Only park in designated parking zones. Rangers will ticket you.

• Arrive early, parking spots fill up quickly.

• Many trails not listed above are still under repair after damage from Hurricane Maria. 

• Reservations are no longer needed to enter the rainforest. 

Degree 18 Juice Bar.  Come here for a healthy pick-me-up after hiking in El Yunque. Located in the town of Palmer at the base of the mountain, they offer smoothies, vegan burgers and hammocks to relax in.

Rain Forest Zip Line Park.  An adventure park at the base of El Yunque with 8 zip lines traversing through the lush rainforest canopy. One zip line spans 2,300 ft and is by far the most exhilarating part of the course. We visited here after a day hiking in El Yunque.

Luquillo

Nearby El Yunque is the town of Luquillo, known for the Luquillo Kiosks. Located along the highway, there are 60 street side stalls and restaurants selling Puerto Rican street food and classic Caribbean dishes.

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Bacalaítos.  Large and flat fritters made with a mixture of batter and cod. 

Whole Fried Red Snapper (Chillo Frito Entero).  Whole fried fish, especially red snapper, is a typical Puerto Rican dish. The fish is fried until crispy from head to tail. The meat is tender and easily pulls away from the bones while the fins and tails break off like “chips.” 

Caribbean Lobster.  Also known as a spiny lobster, it lacks the large claws of a Maine lobster but is filled with much more meat. It’s grilled and covered in a mixture of Sofrito, a sautéed medley of pepers, onion, garlic and spices. 

Mofongo.  Fried green plantains that are mashed in a pilón (a wooden mortar and pestle) with oil, garlic and salt. Many restaurants make Stuffed Mofongo with seafood, vegetables or meat. 

Carrucho.  The meat of the queen conch. It’s often served raw as ceviche or salad either alone or with an arepa.

Salmorejo.  A mixture of tomato and land crab strewed together. It can be gamey depending on the preparation. 

Empanadillas.  Similar to empanadas but slightly flakier with rolled edges. Common fillings are meats, seafood, cheese and pizza. 

Alcapurrias.  A fritter made from green plantain and cassava molded with a leaf and fried. They’re typically filled with annatto oil and a meat or crab. 

Kiosks to Visit

Kiosko #7 de Sonia & Peyin + Kiosco Mi Favorito #49 & #52 + El Castillo del Mar Kiosco #54.  Visit any of these kiosks for Puerto Rican street food like empanadillas, alcapurrias, bacalaítos and seafood salad in an arepa. 

La Parrilla Bar & Grill (Kiosko 2).  For locally caught seafood & Caribbean lobsters 

Terruño Comida Artesanal (Kiosko #20).  For classic dishes like mofongo, carrucho, coconut rice and plantains. 

Relle Na’o (Kiosko 40).  For vegan options and build your own mofongo 

Mojito Lab (Kiosko 42).  For extra large mojitos & cocktails.

Luquillo Beach

After the Kiosks, head to one of the beaches. Luquillo Beach (Playa Balneario) is a swimmable palm lined beach behind the kiosks with more food stalls selling empanadas and pina coladas served in pineapples. Parking costs $5. Playa Azul, is the other main beach in Luquillo for swimming, snorkeling, paddle boarding, kite surfing, and kayaking.

Las Croabas 

Las Croabas is the furthest northeastern part of Puerto Rico. It’s a popular place for marine activities, exploring nature, relaxing on the beaches and kayaking to the bioluminescent bay.

Laguna Grande (Bioluminescent Bay)

Kayaking through the mangrove forests at night to reach the bioluminescent bay is one of our favorite things to do in Puerto Rico! In the lagoon, you can run your hands through the water, let it run down your arms and splash around. Movement causes the dinoflagellates (bioluminescent plankton) in the water to glow a bright blue color. 

Book a Tour. You need to book a tour to visit Laguna Grande. There are a dozen companies offering nightly tours from Parque Las Croabas. Most offer two tour times, one at twilight and one hours after sunset. The biggest difference between the twilight tour and nighttime tour is how much of the mangrove forest you can see while kayaking to the lagoon. Tours cost around $50/person and last 1h 30min. We’ve booked through Island Kayaking Adventure and Kayaking Puerto Rico. 

Good to Know:

• Visit on a sunny day, the dinoflagellates are more active at night.

• Avoid going when the moon is full, the dinoflagellates are difficult to see. If you do, tour guides will bring tarps to cover the kayaks to block out the light.

• Don’t bring your phone for pictures, they can’t capture the bioluminescence.

Visit the Beaches 

Seven Seas Beach.  This is the main beach in Las Croabas. It’s great for swimming, snorkeling and renting kayaks or stand up paddles. The beach has a sandy shore with a rocky ledge several feet into the water. The beach is divided by a mobile home park. The east side is narrow but long and great for walking. The west side is larger with pavilions available for rent and a nature trail leading to Playa Escondida and Playa Colora.

Playa La Matita.  A semi secluded beach east of Seven Seas Beach. It’s a great destination to kayak to, look for conch shells or hike to La Zanja from.

Playa Escondida.  This long golden sand beach has calm and shallow waters perfect for lounging in. The shore is lined with sea grape trees offering shaded nooks to relax under. The beach is popular with all groups of people, especially the LGBTQ+ community. It’s one of those beautiful and welcoming places you’ll want to stay at all day!

Playa Colora.  A semi secluded beach great for sunbathing and enjoying nature. The waves are large and the undertow is strong making it un-safe for swimming. Though not an official nude beach, people come here to sunbathe naked near the rock formations to the right. 

Getting to Escondida & Colora.  Both beaches are accessible through a nature trail at the west end of Seven Seas Beach. It’s an easy walk that takes about 30 minutes. The trail forks after about 5 minutes, take a right and continue walking. This trails leads directly to Playa Escondida. A short path at the halfway point leads to Playa Colora. 

Pro Tip.  Please take your trash with you and don’t pile it up at the trail heads.

La Zanja

La Zanja is a natural tench-like wave pool nestled within a cliffside and protected from ferocious waves by large jagged rocks. The pool is a secluded and unreal place to swim and listen to the ocean. 

Getting to La Zanja.  Walk down Seven Seas Beach, past Playa La Matita until it looks like you can go no further. From here there will be a trail leading into the tree-line. The trail forks at multiple points but all lead to a road. Take the road ending at a stoney beach. At the stoney beach, walk to the left until you see a trail leading up the hill and along the cliffside. This trail will lead you to La Zanja. From start to finish, it takes about 1 hour to reach. 

Safety

• Bring water shoes or wear shoes with good soles. 

• Do not attempt in flip flops or sandals. 

• Be very careful on the rocks and of waves 

• Be mindful of the current within La Zanja 

Restaurants 

Las Vistas Cafe.  A hidden gem and easily the best brunch spot in the area. The restaurant is located on the roof of a house with surrounding views of Las Croabas. Everything is handmade and takes a little longer but is well worth the wait. Try the fresh fruit salad and juices, strong coffee and brunch dishes like the French toast with bananas and coconut or eggs Florentine on a arepa.  

El Pescador.  Located in Parque Las Croabas, this is one of our favorite places to dine at for seafood and Puerto Rican dishes. Come here for a pan fried red snapper, the stuffed mofongo, creole crab salad, jumbo shrimp and anything with conch. 

La Estacion.  A former gas station turned into an open air jungle themed restaurant offering grilled and smoked meats and seafood specials. 

Getting Around 

Taxi.  Getting around Las Croabas can be difficult without a car. There are no Ubers and are very few taxis. If you need one, call this number to be transferred to a driver: 939-644-2817

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

Having visited Puerto Rico nearly 20 times, we’ve experienced many places across the island. Though we don’t live here, we consider ourselves non-local experts and one day hope to call this beautiful island our home. Experience Puerto Rican culture in the capital city of San Juan. Explore the colorful and colonial streets of Old San Juan. Head to the southern coast of Caribbean Puerto Rico. Visit the surf towns along Western Puerto Rico. See the indigenous Taino sights of Central Puerto Rico. Get off the mainland to visit the islands of Culebra and Vieques.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around the eastern side of Puerto Rico including: 

Day Trip to The Icacos Islands.  The Icacos are a key of many small islands with diverse sea-life, coral reefs, sandy beaches, migrating birds and marines sports like snorkeling, swimming & diving. They’re only accessible by boat. There are water taxi services or a catamaran tours that leave from Parque Las Croabas. From what we’ve heard, the best time to visit is mid-week to avoid the large crowds. 

Las Paylas Waterfall.  Nearby El Yunque and on private property is a natural river rock slide. An older gentleman who owns the property charges $5 admission. There are no official hours so you have to chance it if visiting. We tried but were turned away.