Panama City, Panama
Panama is a Central American country at the crossroads of North and South America. It’s home to Caribbean beaches, Pacific marine reserves, lush rain forests, an urban metropolis, the Panama Canal and a diversity of cultural backgrounds.
Panama
Panama is a Central American country at the crossroads of North and South America. It’s home to Caribbean beaches, Pacific marine reserves, lush rain forests, an urban metropolis, the Panama Canal and a diversity of cultural backgrounds.
Panama City
Panama City is a sprawling city on the Pacific side of the country with towering skyscrapers, colonial architecture and historic ruins. It’s a starting point to reach many of the country’s nature reserves, and hub for other destinations across Central and South America.
Casco Viejo
Panama City’s old town is a beautiful colonial era neighborhood built on a peninsula overlooking the Panama Bay with walled sections, seafood restaurants, rooftop bars, clothing shops, lush plazas, free museums, beautiful cathedrals and cultural sights.
Elegant Architecture
Walking down the narrow brick streets with the rails of the old street cars still visible feels like stepping through a time capsule. The elegant architecture is akin to the historic neighborhoods of Madrid with ornate facades painted in muted neutrals and pops of color, thin balconies decorated with tropical plants, warmly lit antique lanterns and clay tiled roofs. Some buildings have been well preserved while others juxtapose them as ruins now overtaken by nature.
Sights
Plaza Herrera. A romantic and scenic plaza surrounded by elegant architecture, luxury hotels, boutiques and restaurants.
Plaza de la Catedral. A brick paved plaza in the center of Casco Viejo with a gazebo, trees and park benches. It’s flanked by the La Catedral de Panama, colonial architecture and museums. Artists often come here in the early morning with sketchbooks to draw the sights around the plaza.
La Catedral de Panama. The city’s main cathedral built with an ornate stone facade, large wooden door and two white bell towers.
Cintra Costera. A road and walkway several miles along the coast from the modern financial center to the old town of Casco Viejo with city views.
Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús. The stone and brick ruins of a former church. All that remains is the crumbling facade, walls and interior courtyard
Convento de Santo Domingo. The crumbling brick ruins of a historic convent and church with an adjacent chapel hosing a museum of religious artifacts.
Iglesia Nuestra Señora de La Merced. A stone facade cathedral with two simplistic white bell and clocktowers. We passed by here when the bells were in full swing letting out dongs heard across the old town.
Paseo de las Bovedas. A scenic waterfront walkway along the colonial wall in Casco Viejo. There is a monument dedicated to the history of Panama, views of the modern city and a floral covered walkway with vendors selling handicrafts and souvenirs.
Corridor La Quince. An arts district outside of Casco Viejo with graffiti and murals covering the buildings & string lights draping the streets. Many of the colonial buildings are in disrepair while others have been renovated to modern standards.
Plaza Carlos V. A small garden plaza overlooking the Panama Bay dedicated to one of the first Spanish rulers of Panama credited with the idea of creating the Panama Canal. Guna women often sell their Molas and other handcrafted products from here.
Plaza Medio Baluarte. A small but photogenic plaza with colorful colonial buildings, a central fountain and an overlook along the wall. We watched as artists painted the city scenery early one morning.
Plaza Simón Bolívar. A plaza with a large monument dedicated to Simón Bolívar, the leader who lead several Central and South American countries to independence from Spain. The plaza is flanked by a cathedral and restaurants.
Amador Causeway. A palm lined road and walkway connecting three islands near the mouth of the Panama Canal. Come here to walk the scenic 3km road, watch ship waiting to enter the Panama Canal and admire views of the city skyline. Along the road are bike rentals, restrooms, overlooks and historical placards. Towards the islands are numerous restaurants, hotels, a marina and cruise terminal.
Miraflores Visitor Center. A lock system and lookout on the Panama Canal. Come watch ships pass through, learn about the canal’s history and watch a movie about it narrated by Morgan Freeman.
Good to Know: Plan your visit around when ships pass through the locks. Not knowing that ships pass through at infrequent times, the next one wasn’t for over 3 hours when we visited.
Getting Here: The visitor center is reachable by bus from Albrook Station or taxi. It can take a little over an hour to reach from Casco Viejo by bus or 20min by car.
Museums
Panama Viejo. An archeological park with the crumbling brick and stone ruins of the original colonial Panama City. The city had many houses, multiple churches, roads, a grand plaza, market, cistern, bridge and tall bell tower. It was left to ruin after a major earthquake, multiple fires and pirate attacks. Come here to climb the 116 step tower with lookouts over the ruins, modern day skyline and Pacific Ocean. The view offers a unique contrast to the bustling city surrounding it.
Museo de la Mola. A museum dedicated to the colorful and intricately patterned textiles made by Panama’s indigenous Guna Women. The well curated exhibit explains the cultural importance of the women and their textiles, how they’re handcrafted and the stories behind them. It also features an interactive sound and light exhibit, an origami station and a magnetic wall to add to the museum’s Mola. The museum is free to enter.
Museo de la Historia. A small history museum in Casco Viejo about the founding of Panama and its independence from Spain and Colombia, the diverse cultures that make up Panama and the history of the Panama Canal. Come to see one of Panama’s first ever flags, a constitutional manuscript, and the national anthem. It’s free to enter.
Mi Pueblito. An open air museum set up like small towns with reproductions of colonial buildings and a nature trail with reproductions of thatched structures from Panama’s indigenous tribes. When we visited, there were many food vendors set up selling local and local dishes and snacks.
Parks
Parque Natural Metropolitano. A tropical nature park with hiking trails and scenic overlooks of Panama City’s skyline. Come here to spot monkeys, sloths, agoutis and humming birds. We spent over 3 hours walking the trails and spotting wildlife through our binoculars.
Trails
El Roble. A 0.7km trail and road leading from the visitor center to the Mono Titi trail
Camino de Mono Titi. A 1.2km trail through the forest ending with views of Panama City’s skyline.
La Cienaguita. A 1.1km trail through the lush forest leading from end of the Mono Titi trail back to the El Roble trail.
Los Caobos. A 0.8km trail branding off of the El Roble trail and ending at the Visitor Center. This trail passed through dense forest where we spotted monkeys, a sloth and agouti.
Getting Here: The park is reachable by bus one stop on the bus from Albrook Station. It can take a little over an hour to reach from Casco Viejo.
Cerro Ancon. A paved nature trail leading from Mi Pueblito to the city’s tallest natural point. Come here to overlook Casco Viejo, the city’s modern skyscrapers and ships passing through the Panama Canal.
Soberania National Park. A large national park in the center of the country located along the Panama Canal. We came here hoping to hike, spot wildlife and watch ships on the Canal.
Unfortunately after hours of trying to reach certain sights in the park via bus, on foot and Uber, we learned many of the park’s activities are run by private resorts with high ticket prices, require advance reservation or are inaccessible. Tired and a little defeated, we decided to return to Panama City and make the most of our day.
Markets
Mercado San Felipe Neri. A food market with butchers selling locally farmed meats and vendors selling locally grown produce, fruits, eggs, grains, herbs, oils and juices. We shopped for a week’s worth of groceries to cook with at our Airbnb.
Mercado de Mariscos. A seafood market with vendor selling piles of whole fish on ice, trays of shrimp, live crab and lobster, queen conch and mixed seafood. We bought a 2 lb Corvina, Panama’s favorite fish, and fried it in traditional methods. Opposite of the market is a second building with restaurants and vendors cooking up the day’s fresh catch. Here we ordered Caribbean shrimp, coconut rice and locals beers from Restaurante Allison.
Avienda Central. A pedestrian street stretching from Cinco de Mayo station to Casco Viejo with commercial shops, grocery stores, restaurants, cafes and street vendors selling produce, especially plantains stacked on tables and pineapples in the backs of trucks.
Where to Eat & Drink
Casco Mar. A restaurant along the seaside of Casco Viejo with a Spanish style tapas and paella menu. We sat outside listening to the waves and sounds of the city. To eat, we shared the plantains, passion fruit ceviche, white fish stuffed peppers, coconut flan and the most refreshing mojitos.
El Santuario. A very romantic and higher end restaurant built within the ruins of a former monetary. The interior is defined by its exposed stone walls, brick arches, high ceilings, terracotta tiled and patterned wood floors. The menu specializes in Panamanian and Spanish dishes. We shared a seafood paella with scallops, langoustine, mussels and calamari. To drink, we each ordered a glass of red sangria.
Snack Shack. A beautiful restaurant in Casco Viejo. W ordered a breakfast bowl of tropical fruits (mango, pineapple, banana and papaya) with a coconut cream sauce as well as a traditional breakfast with fried eggs, toast, potatoes and avocado. There is a Tiki Bar in the garden area at the back of the restaurant.
Café Unido Casco Viejo. An old town coffee shop and cafe with Panama grown and roasted beans.
Vista Corona Panama. A tropical rooftop restaurant and bar with palm trees, tiki torches, house music, a bar built from a VW bettle and views of the old towns rooftops and spires. We came here to relax with a cocktail after a long day of hiking and busing. Try the rum cocktails like an Old Cuban and Tobaga.
Tantalo Rooftop Bar. A rooftop bar in Casco Viejo with cocktails and local beers. We came here for sunset drinks overlooking the city’s terracotta roofs, cathedral towers and modern skyscrapers across the bay. Fittingly, we ordered a drink called, Noche en el Casco (Night in The Old Town).
Pedro Mandinga Rum Bar. A warmly lit rum bar with a wooden interior and old world charm. The bar features rums from countries across the Caribbean and Central America including Panama and their own distillations. Try a glass neat, order a flight of rums, a classic cocktail or
VIP. A boutique and juice bar connected to Monos con Arte. Order a fresh Pepa Fria (cold coconut) to enjoy while walking around the old town.
Where to Shop
Casco Viejo is a very fashionable place with well dressed locals and tourists, boutiques and clothing shops selling Panama hats, linen clothes, colorful outfits and items made with tropical patterns and natural materials.
Boho Shack. A resort style street wear boutique with patterned shirts, shorts and pants. We bought a palm embroidered linen shirt! We’ve also visited their location in Cartagena where the brand is based.
Bellezas de Panama. A shop selling Panama hats, hand woven Molas and various souvenirs. We found this location to have the best selection and most affordable authentic Panama hats. The typical price is $40-$45 but the shop owner sold ours to us for $30.
Mansion Herrera Clothing Shop. A boutique clothing shop with elegant linen clothes and custom Panama Hats.
Lu Maca Coffee Shop & Store. A cafe and clothing store with tropical shirts, accessories and a small selection of Panama Hats.
The San Blas Islands
The San Blas Islands are a series of many low lying islands and shills on the Caribbean side of the country. They are a tropical paradise for beach hopping, snorkeling and learning about the Guna Yana indigenous community.
The Guna Yana Indigenous People. The region is an autonomous zone in Panama home to and managed by the Guna Yana. While here, it’s common to see islands covered in palm reed and thatched houses, women wearing traditional Molas and fishermen paddling between islands in dugout canoes.
Touring the Islands. We voyaged into the sea passing palm covered islands, looking back to see views of Panama’s mountains as the spray of the sea misted across our faces.
Private Island. After a scenic boat ride, we arrived at a beautiful private island covered in palm trees and surrounded by sandy shores with vibrant blue water and patches of seagrass.
Sand Bar. Two hours later, our guides brought us to a shallow sand bar with crystal clear water, star fish and a small coral reef to snorkel above.
Dog Island. In the early afternoon, we arrived a an island with a sunken ship taken over by a thriving reef with all types of colorful corals and tropical fish. On shore, we were each served a whole fried corvina fish with patacones, fresh fruit and a local beer.
Isla Diablo. Towards the late afternoon, we visited one more island for beach time and tropical drinks before returning to Panama City.
Getting Here: We booked a tour with Panama San Blas Tours through Viator. Our guide picked us up at 5:15am and drove us 3 hours across the country through verdant forest and hilly terrain to reach the Caribbean coast and San Blas Islands. The last 30min of the drive are nauseating and extremely curvy with steep hills. Overall, the full day tour was incredibly memorable, very relaxing and well organized.
Taboga Island
The City of Taboga. Taboga is a colorful town built into the lush hillside of the island with laidback vibes, beaches and hiking trails. Here, locals drive around on golf carts and say hola (hello) or buenas (short for good day) as they pass by. The narrow streets and alleyways are lined with flowering trees and bushes with many light boxes housing statues of the Virgin Mary.
Playa La Restinga. A clean sandy beach that bridges Taboga and Morro Islands with views of the ship dotted harbor and Panama City skyline in the distance. The shore is covered in pink and white sea shells seen as decor on houses across the island. There are vendors selling beachwear, serving piña coladas in pineapples, preparing fried seafood and renting umbrellas, lounges and boats.
Sendero de Tres Cruzas. Following the winding walkways up the hillside, we reached the trail head. The trail leads deep into nature so much so that you forget about that a sprawling metropolis is still nearby. As we hiked through the humid forest, we heard the sounds of breaking of branches, the falling of fruit, bussing insects and squawking birds. Along the way, we spotted tarantula, numerous neon green and black poison tree frogs, large iridescent blue butterflies, skittish lizards and spiraling vortexes of vultures.
Cerro El Vigía. Sendero de Tres Cruzes leads to an uphill but easy to walk road to the island’s summit, Cerro El Vigía. From the summit, the town of Taboga is dwarfed by the panoramic views of the lush island, hundreds of ships anchored in the bay and city beyond.
Getting Here: Visiting Taboga is an easy day trip from Panama City. We took the Taboga Express Ferry from the Amador Causeway. Along the 30min boat ride, the ferry passes dozens of anchored freighters and ships from all over the world waiting to enter the Panama Canal.
What to Eat & Drink
Cuisine
Ceviche. White fish cured in lime juice with peppers, red onion and cilantro. It’s one of the most poplar dishes seen at restaurants across Panama.
Corvina. A white fish popular in Panama. It’s often grilled or fried whole.
Paella. A pan rice dish cooked in a pan with broth, spices, veggies, and meat. It’s also called One Pot on the Caribbean side of the country.
Patacones. Twice fried and smashed plantain.
Rice & Beans. The classic Central American dish made from the two ingredients with spices.
Hojaldra. Fried dough often served at breakfast.
National Beers
Balboa. A semi nutty bear similar to a Modelo.
Panamá. A light beer similar to a Bud Light.
San Felipe. A pretty standard and easy drinking lager.
Where to Stay
La Manzana. A large mixed use building with modern apartment rentals, artist studios and a co-working space. It’s a quick 10 minute walk through the arts district to Casco Viejo. We stayed in well equipped and designed a studio here during our time in Panama City. Book here on Airbnb.
Getting Around
By Metro. Panama City has a very modern and efficient metro system with two lines crossing town. We took the metro from the airport to just outside of Casco Viejo neighborhood.
By MetroBus. Buses are the most economical way to navigate the Panama City though inefficient. Expect to wait a minimum of 30 to 45 minutes for most lines.
Albrook Station. Panama’s Central Terminal for the metro and buses. City buses from here are generally efficient and affordable. There are routes from here to destinations across Panama.
Tarjeta Recargable Para Metro y Metrobus. Buy a re-loadable card at any metro station for $2. Fares cost around $0.25 to $0.50 for both metro and metrobus.
Yellow Cabs. Taxis are all over the city. Drivers looking for fares will often tap their horn looking for passengers as they drive around the city.
Uber. A secure alternative to taxis. Fares cost $1-$10 to get around the city depending on distance and time of day or $20-$30 to/from the airport.
On Foot. Casco Viejo is very walkable. Any further distances will require public transit or an Uber.
Panama Stop Over
We booked our flights with Copa Airlines taking advantage of their stopover program when transiting through Panama City. The airline paid for our flight to Panama City in route to your our destination. Stopovers can last anywhere from a minimum of 24 hours to a maximum of 7 days. We stayed the full 7 days. This saved us hundreds of dollars on flights and allowed us to visit a county that’s been on our list for years!
Good To Know
Currency: Panama uses the Panama Balboa and US dollar interchangeably. They are valued equally.
Toilets: Like many places in Central and South America, the plumbing can’t handle toilet paper. If there is a bin next to a toilet, that’s where it’s intended to go.
Language: Spanish and English are widely spoken by most people, restaurant menus and most museums have descriptions in both languages.
Ticket Prices: The costs for foreign tourists at most sights and museums are about 20-30% higher.
Tipping: 10-15% is standard for tipping
Safety: We found Panama to be a very safe country. People are friendly & helpful. There is a strong tourist police and military presence throughout Panama City, especially the old town, likely due to the president’s residence being here.
Tourism: We did not come across a single American tourist. Many people visiting came from across Panama and other country’s in South America.
LGBTQ: Panama is a very welcoming country to the LGBTQ community. We saw many other gay couples, travelers and tour operators.
For Next Time…
We loved our time in Panama and with Copa Airline’s Stopover Program, we will certainly be returning. When we do, we hope to visit more areas along the Pacific and Caribbean coasts.
Coiba National Park. A bio reserve with beaches, reefs and rainforest. Come to hike the rainforest, snorkel with marine life, swim with whale sharks, surf pacific waves, spot tropical birds, monkeys and sloths.
Bocas del Toro Archipelago. A chain of 300 plus Caribbean islands with beaches, coral reefs and surfing spots. It’s hub for Afro-Caribbean cultures with calypso, reggae and soca music and cuisine made from seafood cooked in coconuts and seasoned with spices. Popular islands to visit are Colon, the Bastimentos and Carenero.
Eastern Puerto Rico
Puerto Rico is known as La Isla del Encanto, which translates to The Island of Enchantment. Eastern Puerto Rico is home to rainforest, waterfalls and beaches.
La Isla del Encanto
Puerto Rico is known as La Isla del Encanto, which translates to The Island of Enchantment. The island is home to some of the most natural landscapes and wildlife; including Caribbean beaches, bioluminescent bays, rainforests and waterfalls. Going East from San Juan, we’ve hiked to the peak of El Yunque, kayaked though mangrove forests in Las Croabas and snorkeled with sea turtles in Culebra.
El Yunque National Forest
El Yunque is Puerto Rico’s only rainforest. The landscape is full of lush tropical vegetation, waterfalls with natural pools, hiking trails, lookout towers, tree snails and frogs. Here are a list of sights and trails in consecutive order past El Portal Visitor Center.
La Coca Waterfall. An 85ft roadside waterfall shortly after entering El Yunque.
Yokahú Tower. An observation tower less than 1km past La Coca Waterfall.
Juan Diego Falls. Down the road from Yokahú Tower is series of waterfalls with natural pools for swimming. The falls are reachable via a short trail from the road.
Sierra Palm Picnic Area. The only restaurant in El Yunque with great lunch options and refreshing drinks.
Mt Britton Trail. A thin paved and stone laid trail though the rainforest leading to Torre Mt Britton. It takes about 45 minutes from the trailhead to reach the peak.
Torre Mt Britton. An observation tower at El Yunque’s second highest peak with cool breezes, rolling clouds and sweeping views of the Caribbean and Atlantic coasts.
Mt Britton Spur Trail. Connects the Mt Britton Trail to El Yunque Trail just before the trail to Torre Mt Britton.
El Yunque Trail. The rainforest’s longest trail leading to El Yunque’s highest peak.
El Yunque Peak. Often within the clouds, the peak is surrounded by a forest of foliage with stunted growth due to the heavy rain, wind and erosion. There is also an abandoned medical building and series of antenna.
Degree 18 Juice. Come here for a healthy pick-me-up after hiking in El Yunque. Located in the town of Palmer at the base of the mountain, they offer smoothies, vegan burgers and hammocks to relax in.
Good to Knows:
Bring water and snacks.
Wear hiking shoes with good treads, the rocks are slippery.
The temperature gets colder the higher in altitude you hike.
Expect it to rain, bring a raincoat or umbrella and change of clothes.
Rent a car. There are no Ubers or Taxis allowed into the park. The drive is 1 hour from San Juan.
Arrive early, parking spots fill up quickly. Rangers will ticket you for parking in undesignated spots.
Luquillo
Nearby El Yunque is the town of Luquillo, known for the Luquillo Kiosks. Located along the highway, there are 60 street-side stalls and restaurants selling Puerto Rican street food and classic Caribbean dishes. These are some of our favorites to try:
Whole Red Snapper (Chillo). The whole fish is typically fried until crispy from head to tail. The meat is tender and easily pulls away from the bones while the fins and tails break off like “chips.”
Caribbean Lobster. Also known as a spiny lobster, it lacks the large claws of a Maine lobster but is filled with much more meat.
Mofongo. Fried green plantains that are mashed in a wooden mortar and pestle with oil, garlic and salt. Many restaurants make Stuffed Mofongo with seafood, vegetables or meat.
Carrucho. The meat of the queen conch. It’s often served raw as ceviche or salad either alone or with an arepa.
Salmorejo. A mixture of tomato and land crab meat strewed together.
Empanadillas. Similar to empanadas but slightly flakier with rolled edges.
Alcapurrias. A fritter made from green plantain and cassava molded with a leaf and fried. They’re typically filled with annatto oil and a meat.
Bacalaítos. Large flat round cod and batter fried fritters.
Kiosks to Visit
Kiosko #7 de Sonia & Peyin + Kiosco Mi Favorito #49 & #52 + El Castillo del Mar Kiosco #54. Visit any of these kiosks for Puerto Rican street food like empanadillas, alcapurrias, bacalaítos and seafood salad in an arepa.
La Parrilla Bar & Grill (Kiosko 2). For locally caught seafood & Caribbean lobsters.
Terruño Comida Artesanal (Kiosko #20). For classic dishes like mofongo, carrucho, coconut rice and plantains.
Relle Na’o (Kiosko 40). For vegan options and build your own mofongo.
Mojito Lab (Kiosko 42). For extra large mojitos & cocktails.
Beaches
After the Kiosks, head to one of the beaches. Luquillo Beach (Playa Balneario) is a swimmable palm lined beach behind the kiosks with more food stalls selling empanadas and Pina Coladas served in hallowed out pineapples. Parking costs $5. Playa Azul, is the other main beach in Luquillo for swimming, snorkeling, paddle boarding, kite surfing, and kayaking.
Las Croabas
Las Croabas is the furthest northeastern part of Puerto Rico. It’s a popular place for marine activities, exploring nature, relaxing on the beaches and kayaking to the bioluminescent bay.
Laguna Grande (Bioluminescent Bay)
Kayaking through the mangrove forests at night to reach the bioluminescent bay is one of our favorite things to do in Puerto Rico! In the lagoon, you can run your hands through the water, let it run down your arms and splash around. Movement causes the dinoflagellates (bioluminescent plankton) in the water to glow a bright blue color.
Book a Tour. You need to book a tour to visit Laguna Grande. There are a dozen companies offering nightly tours from Parque Las Croabas. Most offer two tour times, one at twilight and one hours after sunset. The biggest difference between the twilight tour and nighttime tour is how much of the mangrove forest you can see while kayaking to the lagoon. Tours cost around $50/person and last 1h 30min. We’ve booked through Island Kayaking Adventure and Kayaking Puerto Rico.
Good to Know:
Visit on a sunny day, the dinoflagellates are more active at night.
Avoid going when the moon is full, the dinoflagellates are difficult to see. If you do, tour guides will bring tarps to cover the kayaks to block out the light.
Don’t bring your phone for pictures, they can’t capture the bioluminescence.
Visit the Beaches
Seven Seas Beach. This is the main beach in Las Croabas. It’s great for swimming, snorkeling and renting kayaks or stand up paddles. The beach has a sandy shore with a rocky ledge several feet into the water. The beach is divided by a mobile home park. The east side is narrow but long and great for walking. The west side is larger with pavilions available for rent and a nature trail leading to Playa Escondida and Playa Colora.
Playa La Matita. A semi secluded beach east of Seven Seas Beach. It’s a great destination to kayak to, look for conch shells or hike to La Zanja from.
Playa Escondida. This long golden sand beach has calm and shallow waters perfect for lounging in. The shore is lined with sea grape trees offering shaded nooks to relax under. The beach is popular with all groups of people, especially the LGBTQ+ community. It’s one of those beautiful and welcoming places you’ll want to stay at all day!
Playa Colora. A semi secluded beach great for sunbathing and enjoying nature. The waves are large and the undertow is strong making it un-safe for swimming. Though not an official nude beach, people come here to sunbathe naked near the rock formations to the right.
Getting to Escondida & Colora. Both beaches are accessible through a nature trail at the west end of Seven Seas Beach. It’s an easy walk that takes about 30 minutes. The trail forks after about 5 minutes, take a right and continue walking. This trails leads directly to Playa Escondida. Halfway through the trail is a short path that leads to Playa Colora.
Pro-tip: Please take your trash with you and don’t pile it up at the trail heads.
La Zanja
La Zanja is a natural tench-like wave pool nestled along a cliffside and protected from ferocious Atlantic waves by large jagged rock formations. The pool itself is a secluded and unreal place to swim and listen to the ocean.
Getting to La Zanja. Walk down Seven Seas Beach, past Playa La Matita until it looks like you can go no further. From here there will be a trail leading into the tree-line. The trail forks at multiple points but all lead to a road. Take the road ending at a stoney beach. At the stoney beach, walk to the left until you see a trail leading up the hill and along the cliffside. This trail will lead you to La Zanja. From start to finish, it takes about 1 hour to reach.
Safety
Bring water shoes & wear shoes with good soles while hiking on the rocks.
Be very careful on the rocks and of waves
Be mindful of the current within La Zanja.
Restaurants
El Pescador. Located in Parque Las Croabas, this is one of our favorite places to dine at for seafood and Puerto Rican dishes. Come here for a pan fried red snapper, the stuffed mofongo, creole crab salad, jumbo shrimp and anything with conch.
Las Vistas Cafe. A hidden gem and easily the best brunch spot in the area. The restaurant is located on the roof of a house with surrounding views of Las Croabas. Everything is handmade and takes a little longer but is well worth the wait. Try the fresh fruit salad and juices, strong coffee and brunch dishes like the French toast with bananas and coconut or eggs Florentine on a arepa.
La Estacion. A former gas station turned into an open air jungle themed restaurant offering grilled and smoked meats and seafood specials.
Getting Around Las Croabas
Getting around Las Croabas can be difficult without a car. There are no Ubers and are very few taxis. If you need one, call this number to be transferred to a driver: 939-644-2817
Culebra
Culebra is a tiny island half way between Las Croabas and the US Virgin Islands. Things move a little slower here making it a great place to relax and appreciate life. The island has a small town with great restaurants, is home to multiple nature reserves and a variety of beaches.
Getting to Culebra
By Ferry. Take the Por Ferry in Ceiba, about 1 hour from San Juan. The best way to get here is by Uber or Taxi. Either cost between $60 and $100. The ferry operates on a strict schedule. You need to buy tickets at least 1 week in advance, especially if traveling on a weekend. Round trip tickets cost approximately $12. The ferry ride lasts about 45min. The ferry also operates between Ceiba and Vieques
By Air. This is the quickest way to visit Culebra. Book flights on a puddle jumper through Cape Air or Seaborne Airlines. Flights take less than 30min and can cost between $200 and $300 round trip. Due to cost, we’ve opted for the ferry but plan to splurge on flights one time for the experience of it. Both of these airlines also operate on islands across the Caribbean.
Getting Around Culebra
By Golf Cart or Jeep. Renting a vehicle is expensive but is worth the price if you’re only visiting for a couple of days. There are two rental companies on the island, Jerry’s Jeep Rental and Carlos Jeep Rental. If you plan to rent a vehicle, call ahead and book it at least 1 week in advance. Golf carts cost $80/day. Jeeps cost $120/day.
By Bike. There are no official bike rentals on the island however after asking around, we were given the numbers of locals that have bikes to rent. Call Mitzy at Culebra Concierge 787-742-3000.
On Foot. Though Culebra is a small island, getting around on foot outside of the town is difficult but not impossible. Many people are friendly enough to stop and give you a ride. Carry a flashlight when walking at night.
Things to Do
Swing from the Bridge. Swing from the rope tied to the bridge into the canal. Use the metal rod stored alongside the bridge to to retrieve the rope. Wear water shoes to protect your feet from the mussels.
Watch a Caribbean Sunset. Many of the western beaches like Tamarindo, Punta Soldado or Carlos Rosario are peaceful places to watch the sunset below the Caribbean. Equally, Sunset Grill on the hill is another spot. Make a reservation and come early.
Go Snorkeling. Our favorite time to go is around 10am or an hour before sunset. The sealife seems to be more active during these hours. The best beaches to spot sea turtles, eagle rays, conch and coral are Tamarindo, Carlos Rosario and Playa De Cascajo. Rent snorkel gear from Blue Water or Culebra Divers. Both are located next to the ferry terminal. Use reef safe sunscreen like Sunbum when snorkeling.
Visit the Beaches
Culebra has many great beaches all worth visiting for different reasons. There are white sand beaches, rocky beaches, remote beaches, unofficial nude beaches, beaches to snorkel at and beaches to look for conch shells.
Flamenco Beach. This beach has powdery white sand and blue turquoise waters perfect for swimming. It’s famous for its graffitied tanks. There are plenty of amenities: parking, umbrella/chair rentals, a campground and small kiosks with food & drinks.
Parking Fee $10
Umbrella/Chair Rental $5 each
Campground Fee $20/day
Zoni Beach. This beach is just as beautiful as Flamenco, easy to get to get to and not usually that busy. Outside of free parking, there are no amenities.
Playa Melones & Sardinas. Located about 20min on foot from downtown and easy to reach. These stone covered beaches are calm places to swim and snorkel. There is not much living coral near shore however we saw divers a couple hundred feet out.
Playa Tamarindo. A long stone covered beach amazing for snorkeling! There is a mix of living and dead coral and fields of sea grass. We’ve spotted sea turtles and eagle rays here multiple times!
Playa Carlos Rosario. A semi-remote beach equally great for snorkeling and sunsets. A trail from the parking lot at Flamenco leads here. We were warned to stay on the trail due to landmines left behind from military activity during the 1950s.
Playa Punta Soldado. A rocky beach great for finding conch shells. You’ll find a lot of fragments and occasionally a whole shell. Supposedly a good spot to snorkel though we’ve never tried here.
Playa Resaca. This beach is as much about the journey as it is the destination. After a rigorous hike, you’ll reach a vast beach that you’ll likely have to yourself the entire day. The only swimmable area is the shallows at the far east end of the beach. Because it’s so remote, it’s the perfect place to get naked ;)
Getting Here:
Follow a paved road up the hill past the airport. There will be a parking lot at the top. Walk through the waist high grass behind the sign to locate the trail.
The further you descend, the more rigorous the trail gets. You’ll have to walk over boulders and duck under tree branches. We recommend wearing pants, hiking shoes and bringing a stick to knock away spider webs and thorny plants.
The trail ends at a mangrove forest just before the beach. There will be pink and orange ribbons, nautical debris and water bottles strung along the trees guiding you through it. Follow these markers, even if you think you’re on the path, or you will get lost!
The final stretch leads through a thicket of beach grape trees ending at a lone palm tree overlooking the beach. From the parking lot, it should take you 45min to reach Playa Resaca. Plan to leave the beach at least 1 hour before sunset.
Restaurants
Black Flamingo Coffee. Our favorite breakfast spot on the island. Come here for their coffee, homemade sourdough toast and breakfast tacos.
Culebra Coffee. A coffee shop selling mango and acai bowls, egg dishes and baked goods.
Dinghy Dock. A lively place to eat directly on the water. It’s open late, serves classic Puerto Rican dishes and has great cocktails. Ask to feed the tarpon!
Mamacitas. A restaurant, bar and hotel along the canal. We’ve dined, drank and stayed here! It has a very social atmosphere.
Restaurant Carscoles. Easily the best seafood restaurant in town serving Caribbean lobster, whole fried fish, carrucho and more. Have the tres leches for dessert.
El Eden. A homestyle restaurant with a nautical interior and wine bar.
Hotel Kokomo. The perfect go-to for an inexpensive meal or quick lunch, especially while waiting for the ferry. We’ve ordered fish sandwiches and empanadas.
Pancafe Bakery. A nice spot to go for sweets, baked goods and morning coffee.
Lococina. Come for the drinks, harbor views and chill vibes.
Good to Know:
Most places accept credit cards however it’s good to have cash. There’s an ATM in town near the ferry terminal.
Make reservations at places you want to eat. Service ends early and places can book up.
Be patient, people and businesses move slower here.
Grocery Stores
There are two grocery stores on the island. Colmado Carniceria Milka, located in town and Colmado Costa del Sol, located next to the airport. Both offer all the basics and necessities of any grocery store. They’re also good spots to buy snacks and drinks for the beach.
For Next Time…
Rainforest Zipline Park. Located in El Yunque, this park offers zipline tours through the rainforest’s lush canopy.
Las Paylas Waterfall. Nearby El Yunque and on private property is a natural river rock slide. An older gentleman who owns the property charges $5 admission. There are no official hours so you have to chance it if visiting. We tried but were turned away.
Visit The Icacos Islands. The Icacos are a key of many small islands with diverse sea-life, species of birds, coral reefs, beaches and marine activities. We booked a tour previously but it was canceled due to high winds.
Fly to Culebra & Camp at Flamenco Beach. We want to experience flying into Culebra. To offset the cost, we’re planning to camp at Flamenco Beach.
Visit Isla Culebrita. An island and nature reserve across from Zoni Beach. It has 6 beaches, tide pools, coral reefs, sea turtles and the ruins of an old light house.
Vieques. Spend a week exploring Puerto Rico’s other major island to see the bio-bays and black sand beach.
San Juan, Puerto Rico
Old San Juan is an enchanting, romantic, vibrant and gay friendly neighborhood of San Juan, Puerto Rico.
Bienvenidos al Viejo San Juan
Old San Juan is an enchanting, romantic, vibrant and gay friendly neighborhood of San Juan, Puerto Rico. The old town is lined with cobble stone streets, colorful colonial architecture, world famous cocktail bars, restaurants serving Caribbean cuisine and playing music during all hours of the day. It is rich in history, flanked by two fortresses and surrounded by a stone wall overlooking the North Atlantic.
After visiting several times over the past few years, the island has become a second home to us. We often fantasize about moving here, living in the old town and opening a bakery. This guide focuses primarily on Old San Juan (OSJ) and the surrounding neighborhoods in San Juan.
Neighborhoods & Streets
La Perla. A colorful seaside neighborhood located between the north wall of OSJ and the Atlantic Coast. Over the past years, the community in La Perla has turned their neighborhood into a destination filled with rustic bars, local hangouts and art.
Calle San Sebastián. This street is filled with colorful and vibrant colonial architecture and incredible nightlife. Multiple famous bars as well as a few gay bars can be found here.
Calle San Francisco. This street runs central through OSJ and is a good place to start exploring. There are plenty of restaurants, bars, cafes, shops, hotels, plazas and residences here.
Calle de la Luna. Though all streets in OSJ are flanked with beautiful architecture, this one is one of our favorites to walk down. There are many colorful buildings, colonial balconies, unique door knockers and abandoned buildings that have been retaken by nature.
Calle Fortaleza. This street is filled with shops, restaurants and usually has a shaded awning the block before reaching the Governor’s Palace, La Forteleza. It used to be hundreds of colorful umbrellas and most recently, the Puerto Rican flag.
Sights & Museums
Castillo de San Cristóbal. This is one of the largest colonial military fortress in the Caribbean and marks the entrance to OSJ. You can easily spend a half day here exploring the barracks, fortress walls, guard towers and grounds. One of the fort’s hidden gems is a surviving drawing of Spanish ships drawn on the wall of a former prison cell deep with in the tunnels.
Castillo San Felipe del Morro (El Morro). This is the oldest colonial fortress in the Caribbean and a great place to learn about the history and strategic importance of OSJ. Similar to San Cristobal, you can spend an afternoon here exploring the different levels and sections. The fort is perched on the NW side of the old town. It’s accessible after crossing a large lawn known for flying Chiringas or kites and food carts selling Piraguas, tropical flavored shaved ice.
(Pro tip: Your receipt from one fort gets you access to the other on the same day you visit.)
Paseo del Morro. A romantic seaside pathway that follows the old town’s wall. It is a beautiful place to walk, watch the sunset and look out towards the sea. It passes La Puerta de San Juan, the original entrance to the walled city and connects Paseo de la Princesa to the Maria Magdelana Cemetery.
Maria Magdalena Cemetery. A beautiful seaside cemetery located between La Perla and El Morro along the coast, a strategic place thought to carry the deceased souls across the ocean and into the afterlife.
Paseo de la Princesa. A palm lined seaside promenade along the south wall. There is a nightly market with salsa dancing, food trucks offering up fried foods and sweets, gazebos selling cocktails, and tented vendors selling homemade crafts.
Capilla del Cristo. A small but beautiful chapel dedicated to health and well being. People feed and pose with pigeons here…
Plaza das Armas. OSJ’s historic town square with performers, a fountain, statues and pigeons. It’s a favorite spot of ours to grab a coffee and mallorca from the green gazebo in the NW corner.
Museo de las Americas. This museum focuses on pre-colonial and modern art and artifacts, the colonization of Puerto Rico and the island’s African heritage.
Things to Do
Hire a Photographer. Hire a photographer to take photos of you around the old town during the morning or evening golden hours. There are a number of options available though Airbnb Experiences. We booked with Raul and couldn’t have been happier with the outcome!
Fly a Chiringa. The ocean breezes above the lawn in front of El Morro make it a great location and fun Sunday afternoon pastime. Kites can be bought from street vendors adjacent to the lawn on Calle Norzagaray.
Walk to the Beach
Playa Peña. The closest beach to OSJ, located on the other side of Castillo de San Cristobal. It is a cute sand and rock beach below the cliff in front of the capitol.
Playa El Escambrón. Less than 15 minutes from OSJ, it’s a popular beach for swimming, snorkeling, grilling and sunbathing.
Visit the Farmers Market. Located in front of the San Juan Museum every Saturday morning. It’s a great spot to purchase local produce, fresh baked breads and flowers.
The Food Scene
A huge part of the culture in Puerto Rico involves eating, drinking and getting together with others. With that in mind, there are so many great places to eat and drink.
Pro tip: It’s best to make a reservation whenever dining out in OSJ.
Restaurants
La Garita . A restaurant and bar serving Puerto Rican dishes and rum cocktails with a view overlooking La Perla. Ask for a Pina Colada made with a double shot of Don Q, Puerto Rico’s most popular rum.
El Jibarito. Another restaurant serving Puerto Rican dishes. Come here for the whole fried fish and mofongo.
T•tuan. A lively restaurant on the wall with live bands and drag shows on the weekends. Try the mahi mahi sliders, crab empanadillas and coconut grilled shrimp.
San Se Marisquería. Close to the bars on San Sebastian, this is a great spot to eat before or while enjoying the nightlife.
La Madre. A Mexican restaurant with delicious tacos. Eat outside on the pedestrian tree-lined street.
Cayo Caribe. A small local chain of restaurants serving Caribbean seafood. Try the Salmorejo (stewed land crab and tomatoes)
Ladis. A famous seaside restaurant built into the cliff between OSJ and Condado. Come here for the food, cocktails and ocean view.
Señor Paleta. A popular spot to buy fruit and dessert popsicles mid-day or after dinner.
Cafes
La Carreta. Come here for the variety of sweet and savory breakfast dishes. Try a mimosa made from freshly squeezed OJ.
St Germain. A creative and vegetarian friendly breakfast spot.
La Bombonera. A historic restaurant and diner known for their Mallorca, soft, buttery sweet and fluffy bread rolls often dusted in powdered sugar. Try them alone or pressed in a sandwich grill.
Caficultura. A good spot for breakfast and coffee, have the Mallorca con Guayaba (guava).
Pilao Bakery-Cafe. Bakery with large portion breakfasts and coffee
Bars
La Factoria. A famous cocktail bar great for music and dancing Salsa. It’s cash only and be prepared to order several drinks.
La Cubanita. Connected to La Factoria, this bar is offers equally as good and unique cocktails. Our favorite section is the hidden bar up the stairs and though a door to the right.
El Batey. The definition of a dive bar and open late. The walls and lights are covered in graffiti, notes, cash and napkins left behind from past visitors.
La Casita. A pink house and outdoor cocktail bar serving rum and tiki drinks overlooking the bay. It’s a nice escape from the busy streets or to end the night.
La Verguenza. This multi-level bar overlooks La Perla is the center of nightlife in OSJ. The nightly party spills out into the streets and continues early into the morning.
La 39. An unofficial roof top bar past the basketball courts in La Perla serving Medalla an inexpensive local beer served everywhere across the island. People often flow between here and La Verguenza.
La Terraza De San Juan. This hotel has a large rooftop bar with 360 views of Old San Juan. Buy a drink from the street level bar and walk up the flight of stairs then sit back and relax in one of the lounges or tiny infinity pool.
Cannon Club. A dueling piano bar with live parrots, multiple levels and eclectic decor. This place is more about the drinks and unique atmosphere than the food.
Explore San Juan!
Though we love Old San Juan, it’s fun to venture outside of the old town and experience life and culture beyond its historic walls.
Neighborhoods & Streets
Santurce. A trendy and gritty area of San Juan. It’s an affordable place to stay, admire the graffiti & murals, visit art museums and experience local culture, cuisine and nightlife.
Condado. Popular for hotels, restaurants, bars and beaches. It’s a nice place to relax during the day before going out at night.
Ocean Park. A trendy yet local neighborhood popular with the LGBTQ+ community and younger crowds. Come here for the variety of restaurants, nightlife and beach.
Miramar. A residential neighborhood with historic homes and buildings built in The Spanish Colonial Revival style. It’s central to Old San Juan, Santruce and Condado.
Calle Loíza. Ocean Park’s main street for restaurants, food halls and bars. A good street to walk for breakfast and lunch options. Loíza Brinca. Famous corner building featuring the Puerto Rican flag
Calle Cerra. A gritty street in Santurce with many large murals and graffiti works. The street and surrounding neighborhood has many cafes & bars to grab a coffee or drink while exploring.
Sights & Museums
Fortín San Jerónimo de Boquerón. A small fort at the mouth of the Condado Lagoon. The visiting hours are infrequent due to repairs post Hurricane Maria. It’s worth visiting if open.
Puente Dos Hermanos. The bridge crossing the Condado Lagoon connecting to Old San Juan. It’s beautiful to walk across with great views. There is also a ledge making it easy to jump from into the lagoon. The Condado side has a small sandy beach, Playita del Condado.
Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico. A well curated and diverse collection of Puerto Rican art and history. After touring the galleries, walk through the sculpture garden.
Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Puerto Rico (MAC). A contemporary art museum with rotating galleries specific to social movements, local artists and Puerto Rican heritage.
Things to Do
SUP or Kayak in Laguna de Condado. Tour companies based around the lagoon offer SUP and Kayak rentals for $20/hour. The lagoon is a boat free place to spot eagle rays, star fish and sea turtles. We booked though VIP Adventures Puerto Rico.
Dance Salsa. Take a beginners salsa class before dancing in the clubs. We took an Airbnb Experience with Angelina in the Plaza Antonia Quiñones
Visit a Rum Distillery. The two distilleries to visit are the Bacardi Factory or Ron del Barrilito. Both offer similar experiences. Bacardi is large scale production while Ron de Barrilito is small batch and higher end. Arrive to a welcome drink, learn about the history of each distillery, their processes of rum making and afterwards take a mixology class, sample aged vintages or simply order cocktails from the bar. Either way, expect to leave tipsy.
Beaches
Atlantic Beach. A sandy beach great for swimming nearby the hotels in Condado. There are no public amenities (restrooms or showers) though vendors rent umbrellas and chairs for negotiable prices. There is frequently a gay section in front of The Tryst Hotel.
Ocean Park Beach. This vast beach is probably the most popular in San Juan. Everyone from locals, tourists, families and couples come here. There are plenty of restaurants, marine sports and activities, chair and umbrella rentals and vendors selling drinks on the beach.
Restaurants
Café Comunión. A coffee shop and breakfast spot. Come for the coffee, open faced sandwiches and fresh sugar glazed donuts
Tostado - Calle Condado. A coffee shop breakfast spot. Come for the coffee, tropical fruit French toast and egg dishes.
Tresbé. Open air restaurant with multiple menus. Come for tacos, sushi, sliders and cocktails.
La Marqueta. An open air food hall with ocean views and palm trees. It’s a great spot to grab a bite or drink after visiting the lagoon or beach.
Paulina Escanes-Gourmandize. A locals restaurant in plain site. Innovative and creative Caribbean inspired dishes, cocktails and deserts.
Wicked Lily. The beach front bar at The Tryst Hotel. Come here for brunch, rent a pink umbrella and join the other gays soaking up the sun.
Bottega. We came for the inventive cocktails and music. We had the Safe Flight, Ritmo Tropica, El In-Muerto and shared the octopus salad. Lucha Libre DJ really added to the vibes of the night.
Food Truck Parks. Quite popular across Puerto Rico, two go-tos in San Juan are Lote 23 and Miramar Food Truck Park.
La Placita
La Placita is a cultural hub. It is a place to buy local produce during the morning, where elderly locals gather during the day and an energetic place to meet people, drink late into the evening and dance Salsa. The plaza is surrounded by lively restaurants and bars.
The Produce Market. Located inside the Plaza de Mercado in the center of the plaza. We used a machete to cut plantains from the bunch, picked out limes to make our own cocktails and selected a ripe papaya for lunch.
La Tasca del Pescador. The place to go for seafood. We ordered the snapper, squid Ink rice & grilled prawns.
Asere Cubano Kitchen and Bar. A fusion of Cuban and Puerto Rican cuisine with a roof top bar overlooking the plaza.
La Alcapurria Quemá. A hole in the wall for Puerto Rican street food, as the name suggests they’re known for their Alcapurria.
Jungle Bird. Tiki bar with tropical cocktails
Getting Around
On Foot. Old San Juan is best explored on foot! You can walk straight from end to end in less than 20 minutes. Spend time walking though the streets, admiring the architecture, discovering bars, dancing in the plazas and finding neighborhood gems.
By Shuttle. There is a free shuttle or multi row golf cart that weaves through the streets southern streets of Old San Juan and along the perimeter towards El Morro.
On Scooter. As of late 2020, there are rental scooters available around the streets of San Juan. Download the Bird app and scan the scooter’s QR code to ride.
By Uber. Ubers are the best way to get to/from the airport and throughout San Juan. If you request an Uber in the old town, the best place to request one is along Calle Norzagaray or Plaza Colon.
By Car / Parking. Rent a car if you plan on exploring outside of San Juan. Though expensive, it’s still the most affordable way to get around. Traffic gets congested in and around Old San Juan. The best place to park in Old San Juan is Dona Fella, garage on the south side of the Old Town. Parking typically costs $1 per hour.
For Next Time…
Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times!
Piñones. East of the airport is the town of Pinones. It is a food hub known for it Puerto Rican and Caribbean cuisine. The Main Street is lined with dozens of restaurant, bars and kiosks.
Take a Sunset Sail. Several tour companies offer sunset boat tour around OSJ, often cruising from the inner bay around the walled city and turning around at La Perla.
Explore more of the Island. Visit Rincón, Aguadilla and Poncé to the West and the island of Vieques to the East.