Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Phnom Penh is the capital city of Cambodia. It’s a cultural destination with Khmer style architecture, gilded temples, a lavish royal palace, sprawling markets, countless tuk tuks and museums recounting the country’s storied past. Built along the banks of the Mekong & Tonle Sap Rivers, it’s an emerging hub for city life with a rapidly expanding skyline and bustling atmosphere both day and night that attracts Cambodians and travelers from all over the world. We stayed in Phnom Penh for just under a week, exploring its many sights, enjoying its exotic food scene and learning about the country’s rich history. 

The Royal Palace

Cambodia’s Royal Palace is an exquisite combination of buildings including the royal residence, throne hall, ceremonial pavilions, buddhist temples and elaborate stupas. The grounds are comprised of manicured lawns, flowering gardens and sculpted trees. 

Moonlight Pavilion. A Khmer style pavilion and gate to The Royal Palace used for royal banquets and ceremonies. It’s best viewed from the Royal Palace Park in the morning light. 

Throne Hall.  One of the grandest structures on the royal grounds. The opulent hall boasts stone columns, golden lamps, a silk carpet, crystal chandeliers and a royal throne sitting underneath a golden pagoda. It can only be viewed from the outside and photos are prohibited. 

Hor Samritpimean.  A Khmer style house with an exhibit featuring royal ceremonial outfits, coronation regalia and ancient artifacts. 

Napoleon III Pavillon.  A cast-iron French style house with stained glass windows and a small clock tower. It was gifted to Cambodia by Napoleon III.

Dancing Hall.  An open air pavilion used for royal dances, celebrations and to host guests. 

The Silver Pagoda.  A walled area of the Royal Palace containing several temples, stupas and monuments 

Temple of the Emerald Buddha.  An ornate temple at the center of the Silver Pagoda housing several statues of Buddha made of emerald, gold and encrusted in jewels. The floor is inlaid with silver tiles and the walls painted in elaborate murals. Photos of the interior are prohibited. 

The Royal Stupas.  The royal stupas are elaborate cone shaped white stone and gold plated structures containing the remains of deceased royalty. 

Gallery of the Ramayana Frescos.  An open air hallway encompasses the walled area of the Silver Pagoda. On its walls are detailed and colorfully painted frescos of the Ramayana. They recount the Indian epic of the Ramayana

Temples and Wats

Wat Ounalom Monastery.  One of the five original Buddhist temples in Phnom Penh dating back to 13th century. Dozens of newer structures have been added to it over the years since. Its oldest temple is believed to house an eyebrow hair of the Buddha. Within the monastery’s terracotta walls are temples and meditation halls with Khmer style roofs, statues of Buddha, a golden pagoda and gilded stupa and a cemetery with smaller stupas. Around the monastery we saw Buddhist monks dressed in orange robes mediating, wandering the grounds and gardening. 

Wat Phnom Daun Penh.  A Buddhist temple dedicated to Lady Penh and the legend surrounding her. It’s one of the most important sights in the capital. The temple stands on a hill surrounded by a peaceful city park. It features a large white stupa and a beautiful pagoda. Its interior walls, ceiling and columns are painted in colorful scenes of the Buddha’s previous lives. The temple houses statues of Buddha and Vishnu that legend says Lady Penh discovered inside a tree floating down the Mekong River. The trees in the park are home to a colony of giant bats known as flying foxes. We watched them sway in the trees, crawl along branches and occasionally take flight. There is a $1 USD entry fee to the park and temple.

Wat Langka.  One of the original five Buddhist temples of Phnom Penh with pagodas and stupas. We visited in the late afternoon and were the only ones here except for a friendly monk gardening. It was very peaceful and meditative to walk around and admire. 

Museums 

National Museum of Cambodia.  A fully red colored Khmer style building housing historical artifacts from across Cambodia. The museums exhibits ancient bronzes, relics from temples, stone sculptures of Hindu gods, Buddha, Khmer royalty and warriors, stolen and recovered objects. At the center of the museum in an outdoor courtyard with koi ponds and walkways to admired the museum’s design. 

SOSORO - Preah Srey Museum.  A museum dedicated to the role of currency throughout Cambodia’s history from ancient times to modern day. It displays maps, historical records and precious coins from ancient Cambodia and the Khmer Empire. No photos are allowed to be taken inside. 

Genocide Museum.  Cambodia is a beautiful country that underwent a very dark and tragic past not so long ago. The Khmer Rouge came to power and forcibly displaced, starved, tortured and killed millions of Cambodians throughout the mid to late 1970s. The museum is one of the former prisons used to carry out the atrocities. We listed to the audio guide as we solemnly toured the museum and its former cells. Throughout the cells are thousands of photos of those imprisoned on its grounds, graphic accounts of what happened here and human remains. 

Parks & Monuments 

Royal Palace Park.  A park in front of the Royal Palace with views of its grand gate. It’s a popular evening spot where Buddhist monks gather, families relax and people feed pigeons. 

Wat Botum Park.  A park lined with grassy lawns, fountains, Cambodian monuments and public plazas. It leads from the Royal Palace to the Independence Garden. 

Independence Garden.  A grassy park in the middle of one of Phnom Penh’s main roads with multiple monuments including a statue of the King of Cambodia and a red fountain featuring a seven headed snake deity. 

Independence Monument.  A red stone stupa in the middle of a roundabout at the end of the Independence Garden commemorating Cambodia’s indecencies from France.  

Sisowath Riverside Park.  A palm lined promenade along the banks of the Tonle Sap River. It’s a popular spot to walk at night  with boat captains selling sightseeing tours and street food vendors. The road across from the park is a popular spot for nightlife with restaurants, bars and clubs. 

Yeay Penh Statue.  A small white monument with ornate Khmer designs housing a bronze statue of Yeay Penh, the founder of the city. 

Markets 

The Central Market.  Recognizable by its pale yellow color, art deco windows, large dome and four halls extending from it. Inside, vendors sell all manner of goods including fruits, vegetables, herbs, meats, live seafood and chickens, coffee, clothing, shoes, jewelry, cookware and toys. It’s a place where locals come to shop while welcoming tourists and travelers. Make sure to bring cash and plan to haggle. 

We shopped for groceries, buying local ingredients like banana blossom, tofu, bean sprouts, rice noodles, dragonfruit, bitter melon, lily stems, kampot pepper and coconut milk. Our favorite area of the market are the street food stalls. Cooks served all types of noodle dishes, grilled seafoods, steamed dumpling and fried insects, including tarantula! We ordered a bowl of Nom Banh Chok, a coconut curry with rice noodles and veggies.

The Old Market.  A large market with narrow aisles of vendors selling all types of merchandise, fruits, vegetables, meats, seafood, souvenirs, meals and street food. Many locals come here for various services like haircuts and manicures. 

Phnom Penh Night Market.  Night markets are a staple of most Asian cities and come to life after dark. The Phnom Penh Night Market is no different. Vendors set up selling clothes, shoes, jewelry, accessories and toys. In the center of it all is a karaoke stage where people muster up the courage to sing out in front of the masses. 

One of the best reasons to come here is for the street food! Dozens of food carts surround a plaza blanketed in colorful carpets and cushions. Each vendor sells a vibrant display of fried and barbecued skewers, spring and summer rolls, dumplings, rice and noodle dishes. The food is extremely inexpensive and a fun way to try Cambodian cuisine. We ordered several veggie and seafood skewers then chose a carpeted spot to enjoy dinner. 

Things to Do

Take a Sunset River Cruise.  We took a sunset river cruise down the Mekong & Tonle Sap Rivers. The 90 minute tour included a 40min narration of sights and unlimited local beers! We watched the sun set over the city behind the rapidly growing skyline and golden roofs of Buddhist temples. Along the way, we passed the “meeting waters” where the brown water of the Tonle Sap River and the deep blue water of the Mekong River meet. We boated past a small fishing village made from a colorful cluster of stilt houses and saw fishermen returning with nets full of the days catch. We booked our tour ahead of time however it’s not necessary. Boat operators sell tickets for as little as $5 along the riverside park. Reserve here.

Explore the Old French Quarter.  A small neighborhood with historic buildings constructed during France’s colonization of Cambodia. The buildings are in various conditions, painted yellow with olive or blue wooden window shutters and clay tiled roofs. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Kravanh Restaurant.  A high end restaurant serving a range of traditional Cambodian dishes. We dined in the romantic outdoor courtyard along a colonial house our first night in Phnom Penh. We shared three plates.

• Meang Kham.A platter of Cambodian flavors made from a dozen fixings including dried shrimp, toasted coconut, crispy shallots, diced chilies and sliced limes displayed on rolling leaves. The leaves are folded into a scoop and filled with any combination of fixings, dolloped with spicy tamarind shrimp sauce and eaten whole.

• Fish Amok.  Cambodia’s national dish, dating back to the Khmer Empire. It’s made from freshwater fish wrapped in a cup of banana leaves steamed in coconut milk and curry. 

• Snake Fish Ceviche.  A ceviche made with marinated snake fish prepared alongside galangal, banana blossom, bean sprouts and crispy shallots. 

Elephant Bar.  An elevated bar at the Raffles Hotel with a gin forward menu and a range of signature and classic cocktails. The bar is a beautiful place for a drink with a vaulted ceiling decorated in paintings of elephants, a dark wooden bar, leather lounges and tropical plants. The prices are outrageous for Cambodia. Come after 4pm for their 40% off happy hour!

• Signature G&Ts.  A shortlist of gin and tonics made with local gins, classic ingredients and artisan tonic water. 

• Kampot Pepper.  A cocktail made with local gin, cucumber, soda water and kampot peppers. 

• Phnom Penh Sling.  A twist on the Singapore Sling made with house gin, lychee liqueur and guava juice.

SORA.  An elevated “sky bar” on the 47th floor of the Rosewood Tower. We sat on the outdoor terrace, sipping on cocktails as the sun set and the city lights turned on. The interior has a very well designed bar, restaurant and cigar lounge. Order from the Anime themed cocktail menu!

Cafe Chiet.  A beautiful cafe with a natural ambience enhanced by bamboo walls, wooden furniture, tropical plants and stone floors. The baristas prepare a range of coffees and teas served in golden chalices. 

Duo Cafe.  A small cafe with iced drinks like coconut coffee, matcha lattes and Cambodian coffee. 

Cambodian Cuisine 

Cambodian cuisine has a range of unique flavors including bitter vegetables, savory sauces, spicy peppers and fresh seafood. In addition to the dishes we tried at restaurants and markets, we cooked a few in our own kitchen.

• Lok Lak.  A dish made with marinated beef or tofu, onions and garlic caramelized in a palm sugar and fish sauce glaze. It’s served with rice. 

• Trey Khor.  A very traditional Cambodian dish made with a filet of fatty trout cooked and marinated overnight in a sweet and savory sauce comprised of palm sugar, soy sauce, minced garlic and ginger.

• Bobor.  Essentially rice porridge or congee but made with broth instead of water and garnished with Cambodian ingredients like cilantro, lotus stems, chili peppers and bean sprouts. 

Cambodian Beers

We love tasting the local beers whenever we travel. Cambodia had at least five that we tried during our time here. They all have a light flavor and subtle variances, perfect for the hot days. 

• Cambodia.  The national beer featuring a bold red label with the country and brand’s name. 

• Angkor.  Named after Cambodia’s most iconic sight, its label features a graphic of its famed stupas.

• Anchor.  A competitor to Angkor, with an anchor on its label. 

• Hanuman.  A beer with a blue label featuring a Hindu monkey deity. 

• Krud.  A popular and inexpensive pilsner with a green logo of its name. 

Getting Around 

On Foot.  The city center is very walkable though chaotic. Sidewalks are often blocked by street food vendors and scooter parking. To cross roads, slowly and fearlessly walk into the flow of tuk tuks, scooters and cars. Traffic will slow down, go around you or stop.  

By Tuk Tuk.  Three wheeled carts, a kind of hybrid between a scooter and a car. They’re readily available and extremely inexpensive to get around the city. We used Grab, to call one when getting around. 

Good to Know

Dress Modesty.  When visiting temples, museums and the palace, it’s important to dress modestly. Visitors are asked to cover their legs and shoulders as well as remove hats and shoes before entering. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not directly safe for drinking. It’s best to boil or filter it. 

Currency.  The US Dollar and Cambodian Riel are used interchangeably.

Cash vs Card.  Cash is the preferred method of payment everywhere. Few places accept credit or debit card. 

Scams.  Beware of scammy tuk tuk drivers. They will ask you where you’re going then tell you the museum, temple, palace, etc is closed. They’ll then try to convince you to take a city sight seeing tour with them.

Language.  The official language of Cambodia is Khmer however most people speak a little English. We learned few Khmer words while here:

• Hello = Suostei (so-say-tie)

• Thank you = Arkoun (are-kun)

• Good bye = Leahaey (lee-hai)

Where to Stay

We stayed in a large two bedroom apartment two blocks away from the Central Market. The apartment has tall ceilings, colorful tiled floors, a full kitchen and balcony overlooking the street. Each bedroom has its own private bathroom and AC. It was the perfect spot to share with a friend traveling with us. We booked on Airbnb. 

Siem Reap, Cambodia

Siem Reap, Cambodia

Siem Reap is the ancient capital and cultural hub of present day Cambodia. It’s surrounded by archeological sights, historic temples and ancient ruins, most notably, Angkor Wat. The city itself is home to Buddhist temples, local markets, lively nightlife and a royal residence. 

Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat is a mysterious and historic complex comprised of overgrown and crumbling structures, towering stupas, jungleous pyramids, rectangular lakes and sprawling temples decorated in intricate details, carvings and statues. Many sights date back well over 1,000 years and some remain active Buddhist temples today. It takes multiple days to explore the vast complex to truly appreciate its grandeur and history. We passed by ruins in our tuk tuk, watched sunrises beyond them, walked through their ancient chambers and climbed their steep steps. Angkor Wat is a true world wonder that connects the ancient past and modern day. 

Getting Around Angkor Wat

The best way to visit Angkor Wat is by hiring a tuk tuk for the day. Drivers charge $25-$30 USD per day including a return trip to the city during the afternoon for lunch, rest or to escape the heat. Our driver gifted us Cambodian scarfs, supplied ice water and cold towels scented with lemongrass. We found our driver at the bus station but they can also be booked on Trip Advisor. 

Three Day Self-Guided Tour

Angkor Wat Tickets. Single day, three day and seven day tickets are available to visit Angkor Wat. They should be purchased ahead of time from the Official Website. Keep a digital or printed copy on you at all times for guards to scan at each temple. We visited Angkor Wat over three days, planning our route to maximize time in the mornings, avoiding peak visiting hours and the harsh afternoon heat. 

• Day One.  We visited Eastern Me Bon for the sunrise at 6am followed by Pre Rup, Ta Prohm and Banteay Kdei. We left at noon, returning at 3:30pm to visit the main temple of Angkor Wat for sunset. 

• Day Two.  We visited Angkor Wat for the sunrise at 5am followed by Angkor Thom South Gate, Bayon, Baphuon, the Terrace of the Elephants and the Terrace of the Leper King. We left Angkor Wat at 11am, returning at 2:30pm to visit Preah Khan Temple and Neak Pean Temple. 

• Day Three.  We visited the Banteay Srei and Baksei Chamkrong in the morning, returning to Siem Reap by noon, ending our tour of Angkor Wat. 

Angkor Wat Sights 

Eastern Me Bon.  A Hindu temple built during the 10th century with depictions of Shiva carved into its walls. Steps lead to each level of the temple’s multi-tiered square platforms. The steps are guarded by statues of lions. The four corners of each platform are flanked by statues of elephants. Five pyramid topped towers cumulate at its center. The structure is constructed from orange brick and porous orange stone blocks. Crumbling parts of the temple are supported by large wooden braces. We visited at 6am to watch the sun rise and had the entire temple to ourselves. The golden warm glow of the sunrise illuminated the central towers as the sounds of crickets and birds chirping echoed from the surrounding jungle. 

Pre Rup.  An ancient Hindu funerary complex dating back over 1,000 years. Steps lead to each level of the ruin’s multi-tiered square platforms. Pyramid topped towers flank its entrance and five more sit at its highest and most central point. Reliefs of Shiva decorate the stone walls and statues of sitting lions guard each level. Tree top views of the jungle can be admired from its upper platform. 

Ta Prohm (Tomb Raider Temple).  The overgrown ruins of a Buddhist temple hidden within the lush jungle. Giant trees grow from the temple, their roots cover walls and spider across the ground. Pathways lead through crumbling chambers and former halls to courtyards with piles of rubble and moss covered stones. All manner of birds chirp, squawk and fly overhead. Decaying reliefs and carvings decorate surfaces while statues of Buddha rest in various states of disrepair. It’s one of the most popular temples to visit due to its appearance in “Tomb Raider.” It’s best to visit before 8am to beat the buses full of tourists. 

Banteay Kdei.  A Buddhist temple dating back to the 13th Century. A stone gate with a four faced head of Buddha adorns the temple’s entrance. A stone walkway leads past the ruins of rooms and chambers with walls and columns decorated in carvings of Khmer dancers. Crumbled sections of the temple are overgrown with hundred year old trees home to cicadas and their deafening hum. The temple is still actively visited by Buddhist monks.

Angkor Wat.  The largest religious temple complex in the world, featuring both Hindu and Buddhist motifs. A long bridge crosses a mote to a wide entrance gate lined with stone columns and three symmetrical stupas. Beyond the gate is the iconic image of Angkor Wat. A road flanked by lawns, reflecting pools and small temples leads to the central structure. Its interior is adorned with countless images of Hindu deities and intricately patterned designs. A steep staircase leads to the upper platform and three towering stupas. At its center are Buddhist shrines still used by today’s monks and followers. 

Angkor Wat Sunrise.  We arrived just before 5am and were some of the first to enter the temple. We watched from the south reflecting pool and north temple as the sky turned orange and sun rose above the temple. 

Angkor Thom South Gate.  A gate entering the Angkor Thom temple complex. A bridge lined with statues of Buddha crosses over a mote leading to the gate. The gate has a four faced head of Buddha and a narrow road passing through it.

Bayon.  A 12th Century temple defined by its towers with four faced heads of Buddha looking in the cardinal directions. Stacks of stone and piles of rubble surround the crumbling temple. Detailed stories and pictures are carved into its ancient walls. Stairs lead to its mid-level and inner passageways, some barely wide enough to squeeze through. Colonies of bats live within the dark chambers. Families of wild monkeys roam free with warning signs cautioning people to beware of monkey attacks. Bayon is easily one of the most unique and wild feeling temples at Angkor Wat.

Baphuon.  The ruins of a four sided, multi-tiered temple set against the backdrop of the dense jungle. A dried up causeway leads to its base where steep staircases ascend to each level. Minimal details and statures have survived the centuries of decay. Piles of stone and rubble are placed throughout the surrounding grounds. Families of wild monkeys play on the ruins and in the trees. 

Terrace of the Elephants.  A walled platform defined by large reliefs and statues of dozens of elephants carved into it. Their detailed bodies march along the wall while their trunks and faces protrude from its corners. The terrace tells the story of victorious battle and returning warriors. It is believed to have been used as a royal square. 

Terrace of the Leper King.  A terrace with tall stone walls and narrow passageways covered in thousands of carved figures and dancers. It’s given its name due to the colored moss discovered on the faces. 

Preah Khan Temple.  A former Hindu temple dedicated to the god Shiva and later converted into a Buddhist monastery. At its peak, it’s believed over 100,000 monks lived and studied on its grounds. A bridge lined with Buddha statues crosses a small mote to each its gate. A corridor leads through the temple past various chambers with hallways branching off from it. In its courtyards are stupas carved with ornate designs and niches where statues of Shiva once stood. Most of the temple has collapsed with large stone boulders and piles of rubble in its place. 

Neak Pean Temple.  An island temple surrounded by a large rectangular lake. A boardwalk leads to the island and a trail to the temple. A small stupa sits on a round platform resembling a blooming lotus flower. It’s surrounded by four pools, each used for healing and cleansing in ancient times. 

Banteay Srei Temple.  A temple described as one of the best surviving examples of Khmer architecture and artistry. Carved from orange and pink sand stone, it’s famed for its fine stonework and highly ornate designs. A wall surrounds several small stupas, each decorated in detailed motifs of Hindu gods and deities. The temple is small compared to many of those across Angkor Wat but no less impressive. It’s located about an hour from the city by tuk tuk. 

Baksei Chamkrong Temple.  A five level and four sided step pyramid built during the 10th Century. Steep steps lead to shrine on top where an ancient legend is recounted in Sanskrit writings. Originally dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva, the temple was later converted into a Buddhist shrine. 

Siem Reap City Sights 

Wat Bo.  A functioning Buddhist monastery with temples for monks to mediate and pray, buildings where they live and a school where they study. The main temple dates back to the 19th Century. Its interior walls are painted in colorful frescos of prayer, meditation, dance, battle and legends. Several were being restored at the time. 

Wat Preah Prom Rath.  A very colorful Buddhist temple with Khmer style buildings and golden stupas. The main temple sits on a base of gilded lotus pedals surrounded by a courtyard with vibrantly painted reliefs depicting Buddhist stories. Inside is a golden Buddha sitting on an ornate altar and a 500 year old reclining Buddha. Monks wearing orange robes walk around the grounds planted with plumeria trees, sculpted bushes and statues dedicated to the legend of the temple. 

Royal Residence Garden.  A residence dedicated to the Cambodian Royal Family when visiting Siem Reap. The surrounding gardens and grounds are open for free to visitors. We walked around the landscaped hedges, trees with large bats and visited a small Khmer style Buddhist temple.

The French Quarter.  A historic area of the city with pastel painted French style buildings home to cafes, restaurants, various shops and the Old Market. 

Pub Street.  A popular nightlife street in the city center with restaurants and bars, colorful lights, live music, outdoor patios and daily happy hours. It’s a lively spot to enjoy local beers, inexpensive drinks and to meet other travelers. 

Siem Reap Markets

Phsar Leu Thom Tmey.  The city’s largest and most traditional market. Inside the complex of aisles are vendors selling clothing, textiles, jewelry, electronics, appliances and basic necessities. Food vendors line the outside of the market selling all types of fresh and local ingredients like fruits, vegetables, exotic meats, lake fish, street food and insects. Like all local markets, visiting is a great way to immerse oneself in the local culture. We bought a week’s worth of groceries for less than $20 USD. 

Phsar Samaki Vegetable & Fruit Market.  A dimly lit market underneath a shed of roofs with vendors selling vegetables, fruits, butchered meats, dried fish, jars of spices and sauces. It’s not necessarily the cleanest market in the world but has a very local feeling to it, affordable prices and friendly locals. 

The Old Market.  A historic market in the French Quarter with aisles of vendors selling clothing, bags, jewelry and souvenirs. The center has a farmers market with fresh fruits, vegetables, herbs, seafood, meats, nuts and other locally farmed goods. 

Made in Cambodia Market.  A craft market with booths of vendors selling locally made items and souvenirs like beaded jewelry, paintings of Angkor Wat, Khmer masks, colorful sarongs, paper fans, woven baskets and aromatic spices.

The Night Market.  A popular nighttime market along the Siem Reap River in the city center. It’s known for its street food with cooks serving skewered and fried meats, fish and veggies from mobile kitchens and carts. 

Lake Tonle Sap Stilt Village Tour 

Lake Tonle Sap is the largest freshwater lake in South East Asia. It’s home to fishing communities known as stilt villages. Houses and buildings are raised on 10 meter tall bamboo stilts to accommodate flooding during the rainy season. We visited the village in March during the dry season. We walked underneath stilt houses, crossed makeshift bamboo bridges and followed along a narrow river with colorful long boats. We were continually greeted by locals and small children running out from houses to say hello and give high-fives. After the village tour, we boarded a long boat and rode it to a floating restaurant on the lake where we ate fresh fish, drank Cambodian beer and watched the sunset. We booked our tour with Angkor Wat Shared Tours on Viator. It included round trip transportation from Siem Reap. 

LGBTQ+ Scene   

We felt very welcomed and accepted all across Cambodia and especially in Siem Reap. The city center has a small but thriving gay scene. We visited two gay bars and met openly gay locals, expats and other travelers.

B Ball.  A small gay bar on a narrow alleyway decorated in colorful lights, rainbow banners and progress flags. We stopped in for their buy 1 get 1 free happy hour from 5-7pm. 

Rendezvous Bar.  A small but popular gay bar with stiff drinks, friendly bartenders and a welcoming atmosphere. The bar is popular with older gay men and expats. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Changkran Khmer.  A traditional Cambodian restaurant with a menu featuring local dishes including seafood from Lake Tonle Sap. The ambiance is peaceful with an open air second floor dining room hidden in the middle of a residential neighborhood. We visited multiple times and tasted various dishes. 

• Fish Amok.  Cambodia’s national dish, dating back to the Khmer Empire. It’s made from lake fish wrapped steamed in coconut milk and curry. We ordered it prepared two ways, served traditionally in a banana leaf bowl and served in a young coconut. 

• Knorb Trey.  Snake head fish stewed with a Khmer curry in a banana leaf bowl. 

• Clay Pot Fish.  Rice noodles and lake fish cooked with warm spices and vegetables in a clay pot. 

Angkor Hand-Pulled Noodles and Dumplings.  A small restaurant with inexpensive Cambodian noodle dishes and fried dumplings including vegetarian dishes. 

The 1961.  A cafe and bar with strong brewed coffee, cocktails and brunch dishes. It’s popular with digital nomads. 

Good to Know

Dress Modesty.  When visiting temples and museums, it’s important to dress modestly. Visitors are asked to cover their legs and shoulders as well as remove hats and shoes before entering. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not directly safe for drinking. It’s best to boil or filter it. 

Currency.  The US Dollar and Cambodian Riel are used interchangeably.

Cash vs Card.  Cash is the preferred method of payment everywhere. Few places accept credit or debit card. 

Language.  The official language of Cambodia is Khmer however most people speak a little English. We learned few Khmer words while here:

• Hello = Suostei (so-say-tie)

• Thank you = Arkoun (are-kun)

• Good bye = Leahaey (lee-hai)

Where to Stay 

We stayed in a two bedroom house on the north side of the city. It made for a quiet and peaceful retreat with ease of access to Angkor Wat and the city center. The house had a relaxing porch with a hammock, a living room with floor cushions and a kitchen well equipped for cooking our own meals. We booked on Airbnb.