Montgomery St. Peter Montgomery St. Peter

The Samaná Peninsula

The Samaná Peninsula is a remote region of the Dominican Republic with mountainous landscapes, tropical forests, dramatic waterfalls and pristine beaches.

The Samaná Peninsula

The Samaná Peninsula is a remote region of the Dominican Republic with mountainous landscapes, tropical forests, dramatic waterfalls and pristine beaches. Colorful fishing boats and their captains ferry passengers between palm fringed beaches with golden sand shorelines hugged by vibrant blue waters. Marine life thrives in seagrass meadows, coral reefs and the vast Samaná Bay. Hiking trails lead through the tropical landscape to towering waterfalls while fruits like cacao, mango and banana grow wild. Dark caves feature large chambers with indigenous Taino petroglyphs and dripping stalactites. Jungleous treehouses and oceanside hotels provide tranquil accommodations for travelers. Meringue and Bachata music play loudly from roadside colmados in local parts of town. Moto bikes buzz past, sometimes with three or more passengers holding on. Dominican cuisine and tropical cocktails are served at restaurants, kiosks and beach front bars. We spent five days exploring The Samaná Peninsula, beach hopping between towns and remote corners of the region. 

Samaná

Samaná is a large town on the coast of the Samaná Bay. It’s a developing waterfront is a hub for tour operators, boutique hotels and restaurants. Boats leave from here to visit the Los Haitises National Park, Cayo Levantado and watch for whales during the migration season. 

Puente De Cayo Samana.  A pedestrian bridge leading to from Playa Cayacoa to Cayo Vigia, a small forested island in the Samaná Bay. The bridge offers beautiful views of the town’s waterfront and boat speckled harbor. Orange starfish, spotted eagle rays and schools of fish can be seen in the shallow waters beneath the bridge. 

Glamour Restaurant Snack Bar.  A kiosk specializing in Dominican cuisine set along Samaná waterfront with views of the harbor and bridge. Come here for the mixed seafood mofongo and lambi (conch) cooked in the peninsula’s famed coco sauce. 

Cayo Levantado (Bacardi Island).  An island in the Samaná Bay with a public palm lined white sand beach, various restaurant kiosks, tropical bars, souvenir shops and a luxury resort. Many tours around the Samaná Bay stop here during the afternoon for beach time and lunch. There is a small snorkeling area near the offshore rocks. The island is nicknamed after a Bacardi advertisement from the 1970s. 

Los Haitises National Park.  A vast landscape on the southern side of the Samaná Bay defined by its karst islands, mangrove forests, brackish rivers and caves systems with 600 year old Taino petroglyphs. 

Cueva de La Linea.  A large cave once home to hundreds of indigenous Taino. The cave walls are covered in illustrations and petroglyphs depicting animals, hunting scenes, dancing people and swaddled babies.  

Cueva de La Arena.  A coastal cave system with a series of sandy chambers and flooded passageways that open up to the forest and bay. 

Getting Here.  We visited both the Los Haitises National Park and Cayo Levantado on a day trip from Samaná with Coprixa Travels on Get Your Guide. The tour included water, rum cocktails and a buffet lunch on Cayo Levantado. 

Las Terrenas

Las Terrenas is a bustling beach town with lengthy golden sand beaches, boutique resorts, open air restaurants, oceanfront bars, souvenir shops and colmados. It’s popular amongst independent travelers, European expats and wealthier locals. 

Beaches in Las Terrenas

Playa Las Terrenas.  A lengthy golden sand beach with calm swimmable waters and palm lined shores. It’s one of the most easily accessible beaches in Las Terrenas yet sparely crowded making it a relaxing places to sunbathe and swim. A beachfront walkway follows the coastline leading to oceanfront restaurants and neighboring beaches. 

Playa Punta Popy.  A popular golden sand beach at the far eastern point of Playa Las Terrenas. Its shallow turquoise waters are an inviting place to cool off during the mid afternoon heat while beach vendors rent lounges and umbrellas beneath the cover of an expansive palm grove. There is an official parking lot, costing 100 Dominican Pesos for the full day. 

Playa Casa Blanca.  A sandy beach in the center of Las Terrenas with over a dozen beachfront kiosks offering Dominican cuisine and fresh caught seafood. Fishermen can frequently be seen cleaning their catch onshore while small boats and dining tables dot the sand. Sit down at Dulce Playa for the Samaná Peninsula’s famed Pescado con Coco, a whole fried red snapper covered in sauce made from coconut milk, tomato and garlic sauce. 

Good to Know.  Prices are much more affordable here than at the restaurants in town, often excluding the 18% government fee. 

Playa Cosón.  An expansive golden sand beach with a verdant palm lined shore. Its western cove is largely undeveloped, making it a popular place to swim, sunbathe, barbecue and surf. The eastern cove is largely privatized with luxury residential developments and beachfront resorts. 

  • The Cosón River.  A freshwater river that lets out at Cosón Beach, creating a large shallow pool with refreshingly cool and clear waters. It’s popular with locals and families looking to cool off from the heat. 

  • Valerio en Playa Cosón.  A beachfront restaurant at Cosón Beach serving freshly caught seafood  dishes and tropical cocktails served in pineapples. They’re cash only. 

  • Enoha Surf School.  A surf shack at Cosón Beach with board rentals and surf lessons. We missed out on the chance to surf in the leisurely waves but enjoyed watching. 

  • Beach Parking.  Free parking is available at a lot near the Enoha Surf Schooland along the sandy road between it and The Cosón River.

Snorkeling in Las Terrenas

Playa Las Ballenas.  A lengthy beach with a densely palm fringed shoreline. Beachfront kiosks rent lounges, serve island cuisine and tropical cocktails under the shade of the palms. Beneath the aquamarine waters a meadows of seagrass and large coral structures home to colorful corals, tropical fish, swaying anemones and sea urchins. 

Pro Tip.  Bring your own snorkel gear and swim out about 100 meters past the shallow seagrass meadows to reach to corals. Swim straight out at the beachfront across from the Apartamento Palmerai.

Playa El Portillo.  A golden sand beach with a palm lined shoreline. It’s one of Las Terrenas least developed and most natural beaches with offshore meadows of seagrass and lively coral gardens home to anemones, tiny fish and urchins. Come here to sunbathe, swim and snorkel.

Pro Tip.  Alternating fields of seagrass and coral structures are easily reachable from shore. Bring your own snorkel gear and swim out from the El Mosquito Beach Bar. Stick around for a rum cocktail at sunset!

Places to Eat & Drink in Las Terrenas 

Las Terrenas is the main hub on the Samaná Peninsula to dine out and drink with the largest range of local and international options. 

Totem Las Terrenas.  A beachfront restaurant with Dominican cuisine, Spanish style tapas, Italian pastas and a chalk board menu with daily specials. Come here for the dorado (mahi mahi) and mango ceviche or Masa de Cangrejo with a side of plantain tostones. 

El Loro Restaurante & Beach Bar.  A romantic beachfront restaurant with a twinkle light lit dining room placed in the sand. It’s a popular place to watch the sunset, enjoy a cocktail and savor fresh seafood dishes. Try the octopus carpaccio, seafood risotto, yuca frites and passion fruit pavlova. 

Sol y Sombra.  A restaurant in the center of Las Terrenas with a menu of European style dishes like tuna carpaccio, mahi mahi croquettes and mushroom gnocchi. Come here for a full meal to to simply enjoy a glass of wine in their atmospheric patio furnished with tropical and bohemian decor.

Chin Chin Cocktail Club.  A cocktail lounge located in an outdoor garden surrounded by fruiting cacao trees and tropical plants. Mixologists serve innovative cocktails and refined versions several classics. It’s a worth while destination located on the edge of town. 

El Limón

El Limón is a small mountain town with an energetic and local atmosphere. People gather at colmados while bachata echos aloud, farm stands display freely harvested fruits and vegetables and children swim in a river fed swimming pool. The town is located near remote beaches and the famed waterfall, Salto El Limón. 

Salto El Limón Waterfall.  A 130 foot tall waterfall in the middle of the lush and rugged tropical jungle. White water cascades down its craggily cliffside, creating strong breeze and cooling mist. An emerald pool resides at its base, enticing those looking for a refreshing swim. It’s accessible after hiking on foot or by horse back from a number of different trail heads. 

Getting Here.  The falls are reachable after a 45 minute hike down gravel roads, muddy trails, river crossings, paved paths and steep stairs. 

  • Trail Head.  Start hiking from the parking lot of Entrada al Salto del Limón. A rocky road and gravel trail leads about 20 minutes through tropical jungle and farmland to the El Limón River. 

  • River Crossing.  Stop at the El Limón River to view the “Cascada Mas Pequeña”. Wade through the river to merge paths with the Sendero Rancho Español.

  • Sendero Rancho Español.  A paved trail, often traversed on horseback. It leads 20 minutes past the Cascada Pequeña to the El Limón Welcome Center.

  • El Limón Welcome Center.  Stop here to purchase wristbands (tickets) to access the waterfall. Entrance fees cost 100 Dominican Pesos (less than $2 USD). A steep staircase leads 5 minutes further to the base of the falls. 

Pro Tip.  Arrive early to avoid the crowds and experience the falls in the morning light. Begin hiking between 7-8am to arrive at Salto El Limón prior to 9am.

Cascada Pequeña.  A beautiful yet often overlooked waterfall along the Sendero Rancho Español leading to Salto El Limón. Streams of white water cascade over 30 foot drop into river pool surrounded by lush trees. 

Cascada Mas Pequeña.  Not its official name nor is it even named, this small waterfall flows over an 8ft drop along the El Limón River where the trail starting at Entrada al Salto del Limón meets the Sendero Rancho Español. 

Rancho Romana Ecolodge Park.  A secluded ecolodge built into the jungleous landscape with elegantly designed treehouses, tropical fruiting trees and early access to Salto El Limón. The ecolodge is reachable after 10 minute hike while its location in the middle of the Samaná Peninsula is 30 minutes by car from the beach towns of Samaná and Las Terrenas. Book on Airbnb

Las Galeras

Las Galeras is a small beach town on the far eastern side of the Samaná Peninsula. Restaurants, bars and colmados flank the town’s central road leading to its main beach. The town is quieter during the day but becomes very lively at night. French is commonly spoken here, influenced by French travelers and Haitian immigrants. The surrounding region is home to pristine beaches and coastal rock formations. 

Playa Rincón.  A remote beach with soft sands and a vast palm fringed shoreline that stretches for well over a mile. Colorful fishermen’s boats sit onshore while kiosks prepare the day’s catch, fresh coconuts and Dominican rum cocktails. Vendors rent beach lounges under the palms while captains offer passage to nearby beaches. The western side is the most popular while the eastern side is the most tranquil. 

Parking.  Parking at Playa Rincón is free and monitored by the local police. Officers provide a tag to place on your dashboard while entering the beach.

Caño Frío.  A shallow river with clear aquamarine waters letting out at the western side of Playa Rincón. Locals wade in the river to cool down during peak afternoon heat while children play in its shallow waters. It’s possible to walk up its sandy riverbed or paddle upstream in a canoe to see the dense mangrove forest flanking its banks. 

Playa Frille.  A picturesque beach with golden sands, bright turquoise waters and a verdant palm covered tree line.  The beach is reachable by walking or driving beyond the eastern side of Playa Rincón. 

Playa Breman.  A pristine and picturesque beach that easily ranks as one of the prettiest we’ve experienced. Palm trees reach out over its tan sand shoreline towards the vibrant blue waters and unspoiled coastline. The beach is reachable by trail from Playa Frille. It passes beneath a canopy of palm trees, muddy sections and agricultural farmland with cacao and banana trees. 

Playa del Amor.  A tiny cove with a white sand beach and calm swimmable waters. It’s reachable after hiking a hilly and forested trail from the eastern side of Playa Breman. 

Playa Colorada.  A remote golden sand beach with swimmable turquoise waters and coastal rock formations. The beach is reachable after hiking over a rugged hillside trail from Playa del Amor and following a gravel road past a series of villas towards the beach. 

Bufadora Samaná.  A roadside blow hole on coastal route 5, located about 10 minutes from Las Galeras. Ocean waves crash into the jagged cliffside, rocketing a jet of water and mist from a small opening in the rock.

La Hondonada.  A beautiful sea arch separating a flooded cove from the turbulent ocean. It’s located just past the Bufadora Samaná in route to Las Galeras. Park along the roadside of coastal route 5, walking a few minutes along a cinder block wall to reach the viewpoint. 

Bahía de Las Galeras.  A white sand beach in the town of Las Galeras. It’s a popular place to watch the sunset and hire boat captains for transportation to hard to reach beaches. Several beachfront kiosks serve tropical cocktails like piña coladas prepared in whole pineapples. 

Marakana.  An “Italian” restaurant specializing in wood fired pizzas, pastas and seafood. Order their namesake, a sauce-less pizza made with gooey mozzarella cheese and topped with sliced mozzarella, onions caramelized in red wine, seared tuna and pesto.

El Valle

El Valle is a very remote area of the Samaná Peninsula nestled within a verdant valley. The region is home to jungleous landscapes with waterfalls, treehouse hotels, a zip-line park, lengthy tan sand beach and rural community. 

Playa El Valle.  A secluded tan sand beach flanked by two lush mountainsides and karst cliffs. A series of caves and rock formations divides the beach in half where a cool stream flows forth. Sea turtles frequently nest onshore, leaving behind sandy divots where baby turtles hatched from. Fishermen boats and captains wait onshore to ferry passengers to neighboring beaches. There are a couple small campground, accommodations and kiosks lining the western side of the beach. 

Good to Know.  This is about the only place where vendors were extremely persistent, asking us to pay for parking or hire their services for tours. Simply ignore them and continue walking. 

Samaná Zipline El Valle.  A thrilling zipline park in the middle of the tropical forest with 12 lines that criss-cross the scenic valley below. A steep hike up the mountainside leads to the first platform with a 1,000 foot long zip line suspended 350 feet above the valley. It and each following line offers breathtaking views of the valley from about every angle, including glimpses of Cascada Lulu and the thatched huts of the Dominican Tree House Village. 

Good to Know.  They’re open on Wednesday to Monday from 9am to 4pm and only take cash payments. Request to book online and confirm the latest pricing before arrival. 

Bésame Mucho.  A roadside food truck specializing in baked Argentine style empanadas filled with cheese, vegetables and meats. 

Good to Know.  There is little to no cell service in El Valle. A 4x4 is required when navigating El Valle’s rough roads. 

Dominican Cuisine & Drinks 

Pescado con Coco.  A dish local to the Samaná Peninsula made with a fried, grilled or steamed fish simmered in a creamy coconut milk, tomato and garlic sauce.

Pan de Coco.  A pillowy and semi-sweet flat bread made exclusively in the Samaná Peninsula with fresh coconut milk. The bread is cooked in wood fired dutch ovens at roadside bakeries and sold by vendors across the peninsula. 

Mangú.  A green plantain and root vegetable puree commonly eaten at breakfast. The dish is often garnished with pickled or caramelized onions and paired with fried cheese, salami and eggs. 

Sancocho Dominicano.  A Caribbean style stew often cooked with a mixture of meats and vegetables like beef, pork, chicken, yuca, plantains and yautía. It’s typically meat forward but can be prepared and served vegetarian. 

AsopaoA Caribbean soup made from a tomato broth with rice and sofrito. It can be prepared with or without meat or seafood. 

Masa de Cangrejo.  A traditional Dominican dish made with stewed crab simmered in a tomato based sauce with peppers, onions, garlic and olives. 

Mofongo.  A fried green plantain mash often served with a savory tomato sauce and protein like seafood or meat. 

Tostones.  Twice fried and smashed green plantains often served as a side dish. 

Tapas.  Spanish style tapas and cuisine are immensely popular across the Dominican Republic. Common dishes include grilled octopus, paella and ceviche. 

Fruits.  Tropical and exotic fruits grow abundantly across the island. Try fresh cacao, red bananas, papaya, pineapple, coconut, passion fruit and mountain apples. 

Presidenté.  The national beer of the Dominican Republic. It comes in three varieties: original, light and black. 

Santo Libre.  A Dominican cocktail made with Sprite and amber or gold rum. It’s the Dominican Republic’s response to Cuba’s Cuba Libre cocktail. 

Mama Juana.  A popular tonic served, sold and made at home all across the Dominican Republic. It consists of rum and red wine aged in a bottle for a minimum of two weeks with a mixture of wood, bark, vines and spices. 

Location Specifics

When to Visit.  Visit during the shoulder season in May. The weather is sunny, warm and pleasant. The crowds are often small to non-existent. Some businesses may already be closed for the “off season.”

Cash vs Card.  Credit cards are widely accepted across the Samaná Peninsula however cash payments are often the only option at beach kiosks, colmados, small shops and fruit stands. Both the Dominican Peso and US Dollar are widely accepted. 

Taxes & Tipping.  There is a mandatory 18% tax on all purchases and a legally applied 10% tip at most restaurants, cafes and bars. Tipping beyond that is discretionary, anything from 5-10% more is typical for great service.
General Safety.  The Samaná Peninsula is very safe and tourist friendly. Exercise typical travel precautions and check for the lasted information with government sources. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Rights remain restricted on the national level however there is general acceptance of lesbian and gay couples. PDA is typically frowned upon. 

Dress Codes.  Unlike in Santo Domingo, there are no dress codes for dining out. Flip flops, sandals, shorts, low cut dresses and tank tops are typically allowed. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe to consume in the Samaná Peninsula. Stick to bottled water. 

Toilets.  Plumbing is fragile at most accommodations and restaurants. Toilets often require dumping water down them to flush while used toilet paper is asked to be placed in a bin. 

Getting Around 

Moto Taxis.  Moto taxis are the most popular way of getting around with in the Samaná Peninsula’s beach towns. Look for drivers with a neon vest. They’ll often ride up next to you while walking through town. Fares are often inexpensive, raging from 50-200 pesos to travel short distances. 

Boat Taxis.  The most efficient way to get from beach to beach is by hiring a boat. Captains often wait at beaches and offer tour routes for a negotiable fee. Ask around for the best pricing and negotiate. Costs range from $25-$40 USD per person for half days and $80-$100 USD for full days.

Quads & ATVs.  The narrow roads in the Samaná Peninsula’s beach towns can make driving a full sized car challenging. Most tourists often rent Quads or ATVs from in town agencies. 

Driving in the Dominican Republic 

Driving is one of the best ways to get around the Samaná Peninsula and the Dominican Republic, however it’s not for the faint of heart. While roads are generally well maintained, be prepared to aggressive drivers, speeding moto bikes, free for all parking on roadsides and pedestrians darting across streets. 

  • Car Rentals.  There are several reputable car rental agencies at the Santo Domingo International Airport including Avis, Budget and Payless. 

  • Speed Limits. Speed limits vary depending on locations. Highways are generally 80kph, rural roads are 40-60kph and inner city roads are 20-40kph. 

  • Police Stops.  Dominican police often set up speed traps on highways to ticket speeding drivers. Dominican military often set up check points to review documents. 

  • Toll Booths.  There are several toll booths between Santo Domingo and the Samaná Peninsula. Most rental cars include a pre-paid toll pass however most booths also accept Dominican Pesos. Tolls range from 100-400 pesos, adding up to about around 1,000 pesos. There are no tolls once on the Samaná Peninsula. 

  • Parking.  Free parking is allowed essentially anywhere without a “no parking” sign or yellow painted curb. There are often fake parking attendants sitting outside beach parking lots charging 100 pesos to “watch your car.” 

  • Falling Fruits.  Beware of falling fruits. Don’t park underneath coconut, papaya or cacao trees. 

  • Aggressive Drivers.  Many drivers are aggressive. They will often ride your bumper, speed past you into oncoming traffic and cut you off. 

  • Speed Bumps.  Be vigilant of steep speed bump, especially on rural and inner city roads. Cross them slowly and with caution. 

  • Rain Trenches.  Roadsides are often flanked by deep trenches to collect and quickly move water after tropical rains. 

  • Refueling.  Attendants refuel vehicles for you at gas stations. Gas is sold by the liter and priced in Dominican pesos. Most gas stations accept credit card. 

  • Offline Maps.  Download offline maps prior to driving in the Dominican Republic. Cell service often cuts out in the mountains and remote areas. 

Bonus Waterfall 

Midway along the road trip between Santo Domingo and the Samaná Peninsula is a remote waterfall, Natural Monument Salto de Socoa. The waterfall cascades over a 40 foot tall cliff into a natural swimming pool. It’s a beautiful place to come for a swim, picnic or simply to enjoy nature.

Getting Here. The waterfall is only accessible with a 4x4 vehicle. It’s located here on Google Maps. Carry Dominican Pesos for the small entrance fee. 

For Next Time… 

The Samaná Peninsula is truly a magical place with pristine beaches, lush mountainous landscapes and energetic beach towns. We plan to return and have several ideas for places to visit and things to do on our next trip. 

Whale Migration Season.  Humpback whales migrate into the Samaná Bay during February and March. Local operators offer tours to watch them breach the surface, mate and give birth. 

Whale Museum of Samana.  A small natural history museum dedicated to the Samaná Bay and its migratory humpback whales. It features a whale skeleton and Taino artifacts and carved whale bones. 

La Fàbrica Samaná Café y Cacao.  A coffee and cocoa finca with a roasting and production facility. They offer regular tours in Spanish and English.

Surfing at Cosón Beach.  The beach is sandy with a year round surf break perfect for beginners from late spring to early fall and experienced surfers from late fall to early spring. Visit Enoha Surf School for board rentals and lessons. 

Playa Fronton.  A remote cliffside beach reachable with a palm lined shore and underwater rock formations. It’s reachable on foot via a reportedly dangerous trail or safely by boat from Las Galeras. 

Hike Parque Nacional Cabo Cabron.  A remote national park with untouched forest, rugged landscapes and hiking trails. A 12.5km trail leads from the western side of Playa Rincon to a tidal rock pool at its northern tip. 

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Montgomery St. Peter Montgomery St. Peter

Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic

Santo Domingo blends Dominican culture, Caribbean charm and colonial history in the colorful streets, lively plazas and landmark sites its vibrant Zona Colonial. 

Santo Domingo

Santo Domingo, the bustling capital of the Dominican Republic, is a vibrant hub of Dominican culture, flavorful cuisine and rhythmic music. Its rich history and heritage is well preserved in the Zona Colonial while its Caribbean coastline adds to the warm and inviting atmosphere. 

Zona Colonial

The Zona Colonial is the historic heart of Santo Domingo and the oldest European settlement in the Americas. It’s a place where history and modern Dominican life meet. Remnants of the coral stone walls and gates frame the easily walkable neighborhood. Its brick paved streets pass colorful colonial buildings, cannon lined fortresses, centuries old cathedrals and the ruins of crumbling structures. Flowering walkways and Caribbean views show off the city’s tropical glamour. Verdant parks and lively plazas serve as gathering spaces for locals. Rhythms of Bachata and Merengue echo from homes and restaurants. Restaurants serve Dominican cuisine, coffee shops serve Dominican coffee and bars mix cocktails with Dominican rum. While the Zona Colonial can be explored in a day, it’s best to visit over multiple days to enjoy everything the city has to offer at a slower pace. 

Walk the Calles & Barrios

El Conde.  A lengthy pedestrian street brimming with restaurants, cafes, souvenir stores, art galleries, cigar shops, historic sites and street vendors. The whole length dissects the Zona Colonial, starting at Las Escalinatas del Conde and ending at Parque Independencia. 

Calle Padre Billini.  A beautiful street with historic buildings, elegant cathedrals, lush plazas and side streets lined with colorful colonial homes. The most picturesque section is between Calle Las Damas and Calle Jose Reyes. 

Cuesta de la Calle Hostos.  A hilly section of Calle Hostos with views of its colorfully painted homes and buildings near the ruins of the San Francisco Monastery and the ruins of Hospital Saint Nicholas of Bari. At the time, the street was closed for repairs making it less navigable on foot. 

Calle las Damas.  A street considered the oldest in the Americas, dating back to the city’s founding over 500 years ago. It’s flanked by stone and brick buildings and historic sites like Panteón de la Patria, Plaza María de Toledo and the Fortaleza Ozama. 

Callejón de Regina.  A residential side street with homes draped in flowering bushes, overgrown vines, potted plants and palm trees. It’s a tranquil place the visit in the early morning as the city awakens. Come here to enjoy a coffee and pastry at the Corner Cafe

Malecón.  A waterfront boulevard stretching for miles from the Zona Colonial into the city proper. It’s a popular place for its Caribbean views and coastal restaurants. 

Santa Barbará.  An Afro-Caribbean neighborhood in the Zona Colonial with colorful graffiti and murals depicting Dominican culture and indigenous Taino heritage. 

Visit the Parks and Plazas 

Parque Colon.  A historic and lively plaza in the center of the Zona Colonial. Musicians perform for tips both day and night while local guides offer walking tours of the old town. Restaurants with outdoor patios spill out onto the street lining one side while the Catedral Primada de las Américas flanks the opposite. A statue of Columbus stands at its center, surrounded by tree shaded walkways and benches. 

Plaza de Espana.  A large plaza flanked by several restaurants and cafes with outdoor patios and rooftops overlooking it. The tree lined and palm fringed plaza is home to Diego Columbus’ home, Alcázar de Colón and an impressive section of the city’s protective wall. 

Plaza María de Toledo.  A lively plaza nestled alongside the Panteón de la Patria with a brick arched fountain, parlor palm plantings and benches. Locals gather here during the evenings to enjoy a Presidente beer, paleta or slice of pizza from nearby colmados and restaurants. It’s home to a Sunday bazaar with vendors selling brass antiques, clay artifacts and paintings. 

The Old Fortress Plaza.  A historic plaza on the north end of Calle Las Damas with colonial stone buildings, a brick chapel, a cannon lined lookout and sculptural artwork. 

Parque Fray Bartolomé de las Casas.  A small park on Calle Padre Billini home to a daily market of vendors selling handmade jewelry and fresh fruit juices. 

Parque Duarte.  A historic park on Calle Padre Billini surrounded by historic colonial architecture, elegant cathedrals and some small bars. The park is named after one of the Dominican Republic’s founders, honored with a bronze statue at its center. 

Parque Montesino.  A verdant city park and recreational space on the edge of the Zona Colonial with cannon lined forts, a colorfully painted skate park and basketball courts. 

Los Tres Ojos.  A nature park inside of a partially collapsed cave system with four turquoise and  emerald lagoons. Staircases and jungleous trails lead underground to platforms overlooking the lagoons. Cave ceilings are covered in dripping stalactites, dangling vines and the occasional colony of bats. While visible from an above ground nature trail, the largest lagoon is only accessible by riding on a rope pulled ferry through one lagoon and walking through a dark cave to its observation deck. The park is reachable 15 minutes by car from the Zona Colonia.

See the Sights 

Fortaleza Ozama.  A medieval fortress built from coral stones during the 16th century to protect the colonial city from pirate attacks. A staircase leads into the levels and cells of the tower to a lookout with views of the grounds and Ozama River. Narrated animated films recount the history of the city, its population and notable figures. Its grounds sit behind an extensively cannon lined wall with support structures like a gunpowder magazine and cistern.

Puerta de Don Diego (Puerta de la Mar).  A stone gate along the colonial wall decorated in a series of Spanish military seals between the Plaza España and Batería Baja de San Diego, a section of the wall lined with cannons and guard towers. 

Ruinas Aduana Colonial.  A series of ruins on the outside of the wall near the Alcázar de Colón. A plaza encompasses excavated sites with the exposed fountains of former stone buildings. 

Puerta de la Misericordia.  A historic gate along the colonial era wall of the Zona Colonial, recognizable by its coral stone and orange tinted plaster facade. It’s revered for its importance in the battle for Dominican independence. 

Fuerte San Gil.  A small defensive fortress perched on a cliffside overlooking the Caribbean. It’s easily accessible while walking the Malecón. 

Alcázar de Colón (Fortress of Columbus).  A Spanish style castle built by Diego Columbus, the son of Christopher Columbus. It’s now a museum housing colonial era artifacts. It was closed and under renovation when we visited but visible from the Plaza España. 

Panteón de la Patria.  A stately mausoleum on Calle Las Damas entombing the remains of honored Dominicans. Visit at 8am for the daily flag raising ceremony performed by military guards. 

Hospital San Nicolás de Bari.  The crumbling brick and stone ruins of a 500+ year old colonial era hospital. It’s a picturesque sight visible from beyond its gated fence.

The Ruins of San Francisco.  The crumbling brick and stone ruins of a colonial era monastery. They can be viewed from the surrounding streets and partially explored but not entered. 

Catedral Primada de las Américas.  The first cathedral built in the Americas, dating back over 500 years. Its coral stone exterior is reminiscent of a medieval fortress with Gothic windows, large wooden doors, decorative emblems and statues. Its tall vaulted interior is lined with pews, gilded statues, small chapels and tombs. 

Iglesia Conventual de los Dominicos.  A 16th century Dominican cathedral with an ornamented entrance decorated with plasterwork, handprinted tiles, coral stone, red brick and a mustard orange painted facade. There is an unusual bronze sculpture of Jesus, only recognizable by the wounds in his feet, sleeping on a park bench. 

Iglesia de Nuestra Senora del Carmen.  A small brick and plaster church with a singular bell tower above its door. It’s located next to the Iglesia Conventual de los Dominicos. 

Catedral Castrense de Santa Bárbara.  A picturesque red brick and coral stone cathedral with colorful stained glass windows and a neo-classical style bell tower. The cathedral is surrounded by a park with bronze statues depicting Dominican life, important figures and scenes from the Bible.

Fuerte Santa Bárbara.  A cannon lined lookout platform at one corner of the city’s wall. It’s accessible from the amphitheater behind the Catedral Castrense de Santa Bárbara.

Ron Barcelo Factory Tour

Rum is a major export from the Dominican Republic with Ron Barcelo bring one of the Caribbean nation’s top producers. A factory tour is one of the best ways to learn about and taste Dominican rum!

The tour begins at the welcome center with an introduction to the history of rum making in the Dominican Republic. A guide leads through multiple warehouses lined floor to ceiling with oak barrels filled with aging rum before visiting the barrel workshop, where barrels are repaired and their interiors are flamed. The tour overlooks the production areas where barrels are filled and sealed for aging, as well as the large stainless steel tanks used for distillation and storage. A window peers into the bottling facility, where bottles are filled, labeled and boxed for distribution. The experience returns to the welcome center with a deeper dive into Ron Barceló’s history, accompanied by a house cocktail and concluding with a tasting of three different rums. Book the Ron Barcelo Anejo Experience Factory Tourwith transportation from Santo Domingo with Mama Juana Travel.

Good to Know.  The factory is located over an hour from Santo Domingo’s Zona Colonial. 

Places to Shop

Galeria Bolós.  An art gallery featuring purchasable works by Dominican artists including paintings, sculptures, objects and jewelry. We purchased a wooden sculpture of a banana bunch!

La Casa de los Dulces.  A colmado specializing in traditonal Dominican sweets made from ingredients like coconut, sugar cane, sweetened condensed milk, peanuts and tamarind. 

Amber Museum.  A museum dedicated to Dominican amber, prized for its clarity and inclusions of ancient insects. Their museum shop sells certified and genuine amber jewelry sourced from mines in the country. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Morrofino Bar de Tapas.  A Spanish style tapas restaurant with an outdoor patio overlooking the Plaza España. Come here for the most perfectly cooked seafood paellas, grilled Galician octopus and red wine sangria. 

Maraca.  An elevated Dominican restaurant specializing in tapas like tuna ceviche, breadfruit and plantain tostones, deep fried goat cheese olives and fried fish tacos. The restaurant is hidden behind a pink painted door in an art deco style building. It opens up to an extravagant interior styled with bohemian and tropical decor. 

Jalao.  An energetic restaurant in Parque Colon with Dominican cuisine and musical performances. Come here for the Sancocho, Asopao and house made Mama Juana. 

Alterno Café.  A coffee shop serving Dominican coffee and local pastries like canella (cinnamon) rolls and queso de hoja (cheese) empanadas.

Casa Barista & Co.  An elevated coffee shop with Dominican grown coffee and Dominican breakfast dishes like Arepa Dominicana made with ripe plantain and queso de hoja or Mangú, a puree made with a mixture of plantain, yautía and ñame.

Museo del Ron Dominicano.  A bar specializing in Dominican rums with craft cocktails and rum tastings. It’s housed inside of a museum space with galleries of historic rum making artifacts, rum barrels and sugar cane plantings.  

Parada 77.  A vibrant hub for nightlife, music and dancing! Come here during the late nights and on weekends for Presidente beers and a Santo Libre while listening to the Merengue and Bachata beats. 

Colmado Omar.  A traditional Dominican convenience store specializing in alcoholic beverages, particularly local beers like Presidente and rums like Barcelo and Brugal. Visit Colmado Omar I and sit at the bar counter or Colmado Omar II and join locals in the Plaza María de Toledo. 

D Comer Colonial.  An affordable buffet style restaurant specializing in Dominican and Creole cuisine. They offer freshly prepared dishes that can accommodate vegetarians, pescatarians and meat-eaters.

Republica Brewing Draft Room.  A tap room pouring a range of Dominican craft beers. Come here for a flight to taste multiple styles and flavors. Try the Mangu Sour made with tropical fruits and the Porter made with cocoa.  

Onno’s Bar.  A lively bar with a large list of classic cocktails and menu of food. It’s a chain with locations across the country. Beware of their “fake” happy hours. 

Paletas Bajo Cero.  An ice cream shop selling dozens of fruit and milk based flavors of paletas (popsicles). Try the watermelon with mint, avocado with sweet milk, coconut lemonade and tequila with red fruit. 

Yuppi.  A takeaway bar offering frozen fruit cocktails like passion fruit daiquiris, classic mojitos, strawberry margaritas and piña coladas.

Dominican Cuisine & Drinks 

Mangú.  A green plantain and root vegetable puree commonly eaten at breakfast. The dish is often garnished with pickled or caramelized onions and paired with fried cheese, salami and eggs. 

Sancocho Dominicano.  A Caribbean style stew often cooked with a mixture of meats and vegetables like beef, pork, chicken, yuca, plantains and yautía. It’s typically meat forward but can be prepared and served vegetarian. 

AsopaoA Caribbean soup made from a tomato broth with rice and sofrito. It can be prepared with or without meat or seafood. 

Pescado con Coco.  A dish local to the Samaná Peninsula made with a fried, grilled or steamed fish simmered in a creamy coconut milk, tomato and garlic sauce.

Mofongo.  A fried green plantain mash often served with a savory tomato sauce and protein like seafood or meat. 

Tostones.  Twice fried and smashed green plantains often served as a side dish. 

Tapas.  Spanish style tapas and cuisine are immensely popular across the Dominican Republic. Common dishes include grilled octopus, paella and ceviche. 

Fruits.  Tropical and exotic fruits grow abundantly across the island. Try fresh cacao, red bananas, papaya, pineapple, coconut, passion fruit and mountain apples. 

Presidenté.  The national beer of the Dominican Republic. It comes in three varieties: original, light and black. 

Santo Libre.  A Dominican cocktail made with Sprite and amber or gold rum. It’s the Dominican Republic’s response to Cuba’s Cuba Libre cocktail. 

Mama Juana.  A popular tonic served, sold and made at home all across the Dominican Republic. It consists of rum and red wine aged in a bottle for a minimum of two weeks with a mixture of wood, bark, vines and spices. 

Location Specifics

Dress Codes.  There is a strictly enforced dress code at most restaurants and bars. No flip flops, sandals, shorts, low cut dresses or tank tops are allowed. 
Cash vs Card.  Most businesses accept credit card in Santo Domingo though carrying some cash comes in handy for museum tickets and small expenses. Both the Dominican Peso and US Dollar are widely accepted. 

Taxes & Tipping.  There is a mandatory 18% tax on all purchases and a legally applied 10% tip at most restaurants, cafes and bars. Tipping beyond that is discretionary, anything from 5-10% more is typical for great service. 

Closed Days.  Many sights, restaurants and businesses are closed on Monday and Tuesday.  

General Safety.  The Zona Colonial is a safe neighborhood that only requires typical precautions. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Rights remain restricted on the national level however there is general acceptance of lesbian and gay couples. PDA is typically frowned upon. 

Getting Around.  The Zona Colonia is very walkable and best explored on foot. To get around elsewhere in the city and between the airport, use Uber

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe to consume in Santo Domingo. Stick to bottled water. 

Beaches.  There are no clean beaches in Santo Domingo. The waters near the city are heavily polluted.

Where to Stay 

Casa Santa Bárbara.  A vacation rental in the Santa Bárbara neighborhood of the Zona Colonial.  The two bedroom apartment is equipped with a full kitchen, bathroom and separate outdoor shower. It shares an outdoor courtyard and rooftop patio with the hosts. The entire home feels like an art gallery with Dominican paintings, sculptures and decor. Book on Airbnb.

For Next Time…

There were renovations being completed on multiple sites and streets during our time in Santo Domingo. When we return, we plan to re-visit them for a fuller experience. 

Museo de Las Casas Reales.  The former capital of colonial Santo Domingo converted into a museum with colonial era artifacts. 

Alcázar de Colón (Fortress of Columbus).  A Spanish style castle built by Diego Columbus, the son of Christopher Columbus. It’s now a museum housing colonial era artifacts. 

Cuesta de la Calle Hostos.  A hilly section of Calle Hostos with views of its colorfully painted homes and buildings. 

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