Autumn in Amsterdam

Amsterdam, Netherlands

We visited Amsterdam during autumn when the days were cool, the leaves falling and nights long. The crisp air and ability to dress in layers made it a cozy time to visit and appreciate the slim historic buildings lining the rings of canals. The city is rife with creative restaurants and bars, vintage and design shops, has an accepting attitude and a strong coffee culture. 

See the City

Amsterdam is a city that’s meant to be explored! We spent a lot of time walking along the canals, wandering deep into the neighborhoods and parks, ducking in and out of shops and observantly looking at art in the museums. One of the best ways to see the city is on a canal cruise. 

Cruise the Canals

During the first evening of our trip, we took a leisurely cruise through the canals while sipping on wine and sampling Dutch cheeses. From within the covered boat, we looked out at the beautifully illuminated buildings, into countless house boats and admired how effortlessly the captain seemed to navigate through the narrow passageways and low bridges. Maybe it was the jet-lag or all the wine but the cruise eased us into a perfect state of tiredness and relaxation. 

There are several ways to easily experience the canals. Here are some of the other options we considered: 

Canal Cruise. Multiple companies offer canal tours and rides too and from various points around the city. All of which are competitively priced, well reviewed and routinely operating. We booked through Stromma. Outside of the wine and cheese cruise, there are traditional sightseeing options, brunch or dinner cruises and open boat tours. 

Plastic Whale. Go “plastic fishing” and help clean the waterways of plastic waste that would inevitably flow into the oceans. Book here.

Salon Boat.   Charter a private or small group tour on one of these elegant wooden boats. Book here.

SUP or Kayak.   Paddle through the canals on a stand up paddle or kayak.

Neighborhoods

De Pijp.   The neighborhood has a local vibe and attracts less tourists than more central parts of the city. It is home to one of the city’s largest markets, Albert Cuyp Market, and numerous cafes and brunch spots. We went on a cafe crawl sipping on different brews across the neighborhood. 

Oud West.   This expansive neighborhood is a great place to visit for its many restaurants, bars, markets, vintage and interior design shops. It’s nearby the city’s largest park, Vondelpark, and home to Ten Katemarkt Market and the De Hallen Food Hall.

Amsterdam Noord.   Is a former industrial neighborhood that’s become home to a large artist community. Many former warehouses have been transformed into waterfront bars, flea markets and art studios. It’s accessible via a ferry near Central Station.

IJburg.   This neighborhood is located on the east side of Amsterdam on an artificial island built over the past 25 years. As a result, all the homes and building are ultra modern while remaining reminiscent of the canal houses in the older neighborhoods closer to the city center.

Red Light District.   The RLD is one of the oldest and probably most well known neighborhoods in Amsterdam. It’s famous for its historic architecture, narrow streets, sex-workers, nightly peep shows and coffee shops. Even if you’re not inserted in the scene, it’s an exciting neighborhood to walk through day or night.

Reguliersdwarsstraat & Kerkstraat.   Two streets with a number of gay owned businesses and nightlife 

Sights & Museums

The Canal Belt.   The canals define Amsterdam branching out in semi-circles from the city’s center. The inner 4 rings are designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Sight. Spend time exploring them, admiring the architecture and house boats. 

Canal Houses.   The narrow, ornate and sometimes slanted canal houses can be seen throughout Amsterdam. 

• Dancing Houses.   A series of highly slanted canal houses along the Amstel 

• The Golden Bend.  A bend along the Herengracht canal with the oldest and most stately canal houses 

• Twins.   Look for twins, two identical houses built side by side

Museumplein.   A public square surrounded by multiple museums. Come here to climb and sit on the I Amsterdam sign

Rijksmuseum.   The national art museum housing Dutch works created throughout the past several centuries. The most famous pieces to see are Vermeer’s The Milkmaid and Rembrandt’s The Night Watch. The museum is also home to the Cuypers Library, a picturesque art history and research library  

Van Gogh Museum.   This museum houses hundreds of the artist’s works and tells the story of his life from when he began painting until his death. If you appreciate Van Gogh’s work, this museum is truly worth visiting. Some notable pieces include a variety of his self portraits, The Potato Eaters, Sunflowers and the Wheat Field with Crows.

Vondelpark.   The city’s largest park and green space. It’s a calm area for picnicking, bicycling and escaping the energy along the canals and streets.

Begijnhof.   A small grassy oasis surrounded by brick row houses. 

Homomonument.   A series of three triangular monuments built into the square to honor the LGBTQ+ people persecuted during the Holocaust. Next to it is the Pink Point, a resourceful gay tourist info center.

Anne Frank House.   Visit the home where Anne Frank and her family hid from persecution during WWII. 

Food & Drink

Stroopwafels.   Thin waffle crisps with caramel layered in-between. Use them to cover your hot coffee until the inside gets gooey. The best place in town to buy them is Van Wonderen Stroopwafels. Outside of the classic version, they top and decorate artisan batches with coconut, marshmallows, chocolate, nuts and sprinkles. 

Deep Dish Dutch Apple Pie.   A classic dessert but even more special when baked deep dish. Check out Wenkel 43 or look for cafes serving it. 

Pickled Herring.   Raw herring served with pickles and onions. It can be found at street carts around the city, one of which is Haring & Co.

Frites & Mayo.   Another street food, look out for Wil Graanstra Friteshuis. Order them twice fried! 

Gouda.   One of the most well known Dutch cheeses. Fromageries around the city liberally hand out samples of the different favors and ages. 

Bitterballen & Kroketten.   Two versions of a potato, sauce and meat mixture fried in a ball or cylinder.

Poffertjes.   Dutch pancakes. They are fluffy, tiny, yeasted and buckwheat pancakes covered in powdered sugar. 

Gin and Tonic.   Almost every bar offers their own take on this classic cocktail by infusing the drinks and offering creative mixes. 

Restaurants & Bars

There are endless options when it comes to dining in Amsterdam. Whether along a canal, in a historic building, near a windmill or simply on the sidewalk. We never had a bad meal anywhere we dined. One thing we quickly learned is that you need a reservation for dinner at most restaurants at least 24 hours in advance, especially on weekends! Here are number of a favorite spots enjoy a meal or drink. 

Bakers and Roasters.   An amazing brunch spot with all types of eggs inspired by different cultures, several fruit dishes, vegetarian meals and strong coffee. We went for the banana nut French toast and eggs royal. 

Van Speyk.   A romantic brick walled restaurant with glittering chandeliers, Dutch classics and North Sea seafood.

Balthazars Keuken.   A tiny homestyle restaurant with a daily three course menu. Make a reservation! 

Cafe Restaurant Stork.   A waterfront restaurant within a warehouse style building serving a variety of seafood.

IJ Brewerey.   A brewery and beer garden located next to a 16th century windmill.

Pulitzer's Bar.   A dark and moody reading room-like lounge offering high end cocktails and small bites

Café ‘t Mandje.   A very eclectic and welcoming gay bar that’s been around since 1927. 

Venus & Adonis.   A cozy restaurant and cocktail bar specializing in craft gin & tonics 

Cafes

Before visiting Amsterdam, we read somewhere that the Dutch consume more coffee per person than any other country in the world. As avid coffee drinkers ourselves, we decided to visit a number of cafes while in town. Here are a few of our favorite spots to sip on a coffee at any time of day. 

Scandinavian Embassy.   Slow and drip brewed coffees with cinnamon rolls.

Trakteren.   A great spot for cappuccinos with cute latte art.

Lot Sixty One.   House roasted coffee and tasty sweets.

Koffieschenkerij.   A cafe located in the the historic sacristy of the Oude Kerk, Amsterdam’s oldest building, with a spacious outdoor cafe. 

Back to Black.   A corner cafe with a bohemian feel and an array of sweets. 

Quartier Putain.   A two level cafe located on the edge of the Red Light District.

Shopping & Markets

There are many opportunities to shop and visit markets in Amsterdam. The city is filled with small business and shops tucked into the first floors of the canal houses. Almost every neighborhood hosts its own market, whether it be mostly produce, clothes, antiques or a combination of them all. 

De 9 Straatjes.   This is probably one of our favorite areas to walk through. This district within the Canal Belt known for its picturesque streets lined with boutiques, design shops, concept stores and clothing retailers. We spent hours one afternoon walking from shop to shop, mostly looking, at all the pretty things in search of something affordable to bring home. 

Nieuwe Spiegelstraat.   A two block section of the street lined with antique shops and galleries. 

Ten Katemarkt.   An outdoor weekend market selling produce, cheeses, spices, breads, mushrooms, seafood, meats and street food located next to De Hallen, A large indoor food hall with a variety of Dutch and international cuisines, several bars offering local beers and artisan gin and tonics. 

Flea Market Ij-Hallen.   A large flea market with hundreds of booths scattered between two warehouses and an outdoor lot. It is a great places to buy vintage home goods, furniture, jewelry, clothing and misc items. The market is held on the second Saturday of every month. 

Waterlooplein Market.   A 300 booth vintage and flea market open from Monday - Saturday. The booths are filled with records, cameras, antiques and bohemian clothes. Several food carts serve Dutch favorites like stroopwafels, poffertjes, coffee and frites. 

Coffeshops.    Places that sell cannabis, edibles and space-cakes (cannabis infused desserts) They provide a place for people to enjoy them. Check out Boerejongens Coffeeshop Sloterdijk, a well reviewed coffeeshop located outside of the central neighborhoods and RLD. 

Getting Around

Getting around Amsterdam is one of the most enjoyable ways to explore and experience the city! There are countless options from bicycling, taking a canal tour, riding the tram or simply walking.  

Biking. The preferred method of transit. There are as many bikes as people in the city and a number of companies to rent from including: Ajax Bike, Yellow Bike and Mac Bike. Daily rentals range from €12 and €15, some rentals require a security deposit or minimal insurance fee incase of damage or theft. 

Public Transit. The most reliable and economical option to quickly cross the city. There are multiple options that let you ride the bus, tram and metro all in one. 

• GVB Transit Card. Unlimited transit at on buses, trams and metros for 96 hours for €22.50.

• GVB Transit Ticket. Individual 1 hour ticket for buses, trams and metros costs €3.20.

• Amsterdam Card. Unlimited transit at on buses, trams and metros, includes access to the museums and a canal cruise. The pass last for 72 hours and costs €84.

• Tickets can be purchased on any form of public transit (Pricing as of 2018)

Taxis and Ubers. The most expensive to get around the city. Luckily they’re almost unnecessary other than getting to/from the airport. They typically cost €45-€50 one way. 

Ferry to Amsterdam Noord. Crosses the IJ River from the port behind Central Station to ADAM Tower. The ferry is free and usually departs every 15 minutes.

Tips to keep in mind

• Be cautious riding bikes and watch out for cyclists when walking across streets.

• Be respectful and don’t take photos of sex-workers in the RLD. This is strictly enforced.

• Make reservations at restaurants you really want to eat at 24 hours in advance.

• Like many places in Europe, tipping more that 10% is not required.

• Avoid tourist traps near Dam Square and Central. Explore the inner canal rings and branch out further into the outer neighborhoods. 

If we had more time…

The Moco Museum.   Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art featuring a large collection of Banksy’s work, interactive and digital exhibits. 

The Heineken Experience.   Visit the Heineken Brewery, tour the facilities and cap our own bottle. 

Take a Day Trip.   With the countryside and multiple cities nearby: Utrecht, Rotterdam and The Hague. We recommend taking a day trip outside of Amsterdam if you have the time. 

Hotel Inntel Zaandam.   Spent a night at this uniquely designed hotel made to look like a stack of green country cottages typical of this area of the countryside.

Windmills.   Also in Zaandam, see the several preserved Dutch windmills.

Visit during the Summer.   Visit to the beach on Ijburg, kayak in the canals and participate in the Pride Festival.

Visit during the Winter.   Visit when the Keizersgracht freezes over and becomes an ice rink.

A Romantic Weekend in Paris

Paris, France

Paris, known as the City of Love, holds a special place in our hearts. It happens to be where we got engaged during a romantic weekend trip. Paris is an enchanting city to wander and do as Parisians do: sip on coffee at a sidewalk cafe, picnic along the banks of the Seine, admire the historic architecture and view some of the world’s most prominent artwork. While here, make an effort to speak a little French. It sounds romantic, even if you mispronounce every word. One phrase we can’t say enough is Je t'aime Paris.

Our Engagement

During our first night in Paris, we had a reservation at Les Ombres, a restaurant overlooking the Eiffel Tower. We started the night with wine on the terrace as our meals were being prepared. During dinner, we chatted about all the things we wanted to do and see during the long weekend. As we finished our meal, the sun had just set and a full moon was rising, when suddenly the Eiffel Tower began glittering in light. We picked up our glasses of wine and walked back out to the terrace for a better look. 

It was only us outside, overlooking the Parisian rooftops watching the Eiffel Tower shimmer. That’s when Devin said, I have a question for you. He started by saying, “almost 6 years together and 10 countries visited” while pulling out a box from his bag. He opened the box and inside was the grape soda pin from Pixar’s Up and a thin white gold ring. Almost unable to hold it together, he asked me to marry him!! After screaming YES several times, he slipped it onto my finger and pinned the badge onto my lapel. 

We called our waiter to take our photo then went back inside for celebratory Champagne and dessert before walking to the Eiffel Tower. We walked around the base of the tower, admiring it’s scale and structure from the ground before ascending to the first, second then third level at the top. The views from the top are absolutely stunning! We could see every amber glowing light and illuminated landmark in Paris. In addition to the view, there was a Champagne Bar serving flutes of French Rosé. Newly engaged, sipping on Champagne and overlooking Paris from the top of the Eiffel Tower is a fairy tale night we will never forget. 

Things To Do

Visit an Arcade.   Paris’ arcades are charming passages to discover and walk through. Most of them are home to a variety of shops, restaurants and cafes. 

• Galerie Vivienne.   One of Paris’s most iconic arcades, known for its elegant storefronts and mosaic tile floor.

• Les Passages Couverts.   A series of hidden shopping arcades in the 1st, 2nd and 8th Arrondissements.

• Passages des Panoramas.   Paris’ oldest arcade. It has retained its vintage charm for over 200 years.

Walk in Julia Child’s Foot Steps. If you admire Julia Child as much as us, visit some of her old haunts:

Les Deux Magots.   The cafe where Julia Child and her husband, Paul Child, often ate.

• E Dehellerin.   The 200 year old kitchen supply store where Julia Child used to shop for enamel, stainless and copper dishes.

• Rue Mouffetard.   One of the streets where Julia Child would shop for produce and meats.  

Dine at a Sidewalk Cafe.   Practically a French pastime, enjoy a croissant and coffee at a bistro table overlooking the street scene and passersby.

River Cruise. Take a Champagne Cruise along the Seine at sunset. It was super touristy with bus loads of people but we didn’t let it distract us from Paris’ charm. Book here through Bateaux Mouche. 

Shop at a Market.   Walk through the stalls or streets of an actual French market. 

• Marché de Enfants Rouge.  Paris’ oldest food market with a diversity stalls offering meals, fruits, veggies, cheese, meats and seafood. There are a number of tiny shops surrounding the market selling rustic and vintage items. 

• Rue Montorguiel.   Vibrant central street with food markets, boulangeries, fromageries, patisseries, old world bars, restaurants and cafes.

• Rue de Martyrs.   Located in the 9th & 18th Arrondissements, this street is a giant market avenue with over 200 shops, restaurants and boutiques selling pastries, chocolates, coffee, seafood, etc. 

Picnic. Pick up a baguette, some cheese, a bottle of wine and have a picnic. These are some great locations:

• The Seine.   The main river that passes through Paris. Find a shaded tree, a bench or simply dangle your legs over the edge and watch the boats float by.

• Parc des Buttes Chaumont.   A hilly & lush park in the 19th Arr. Stop by Rosa Bonheur for a glass of Rosé.

• Champ de Mars.   The park in front of the Eiffel Tower and perfect spot for picnicking. There are accordion players serenading couples and vendors selling roses and champagne.

Read French. Buy a book from one of these classic locations.

• The Bouquinistes.   Outdoor booksellers set up along the banks of the Seine.

• Shakespeare and Company.   One of the world’s most famous book stores, often seen in movies.

Visit the Sights

Arc de Triomphe. A Napoleonic War Monument along the Champs-Élysées. Climb the 284 interior spiral stairs to the rooftop for surrounding views of Paris.

Sainte-Chapelle. A 13th Century gothic chapel with stunning stained glass windows. 

Notre Dame. The Gothic cathedral known for its rose windows, buttresses & gargoyles. We visited months after the fire that nearly destroyed the landmark. Though it was under repair, it’s a sight that shouldn’t be missed.

The Eiffel Tower

You can’t visit Paris for the first time without going to the Eiffel Tower. It is the symbol of the city and one of the most recognizable sights in the world. 

The tower has three levels. The first two are accessible by stair and elevator. We took the elevator up and the stairs down, making for a leisurely descent, twisting and winding our way through one of the towers legs. Both floors have incredible views of the inner structure and iron lattices of the tower as well as a number of restaurants, shops and a Macaron Bar.

After wandering these floors we took the tiniest elevator to the third level, the top of the tower and highest point in the city. As mentioned earlier, the views from the top are absolutely stunning! On a clear night, you can see every amber glowing light and illuminated landmark in Paris. The top floor is home to Gustave Eiffel’s Laboratory and a Champagne Bar. 

Tickets to the tower have to be reserved for a specific time slot in advance, book here.

See Some Art

With a rich culture surrounding art and artists, Paris is the best place in the world to learn about art history and see some of the world’s masterpieces. 

Centre Pompidou. A contemporary art museum built “inside out” with all the building’s equipment and escalators exposed leaving more room for gallery space inside. 

Musee de’ L'Orangerie. An Impressionist art museum famous for it’s display of Monet’s Water Lilies.

The Louvre. The world’s most well known art museum, particularly for The Mona Lisa. The museum deserves a half to full day to explore but specific pieces can be seen in less time.

Street Art & Graffiti 

• Flamingo Wall. Search for the flamingo wall in Montmartre.

• Banksy. There are a dozen artworks painted throughout the city, multiple can be found in the Latin Quarter.

• I Love You Wall. A blue tiled wall with I love you written in 311 languages located in Montmartre.

Taste Everything!

To quote Julia Child, “People who love to eat are always the best people.” This could not be truer than with the French. Here are a some of our favorite restaurants, cafes, bars and bakeries:

Les Ombres. A rooftop restaurant overlooking the Eiffel Tower serving modern French cuisine. The restaurant is enclosed in a fragmented glass structure inspired by the shadows of the tower. It’s also where we got engaged! 

Du Pain et des Idées. A famous bakery, known for their pistachio chocolate escargot (named for the pastry’s shell shaped swirl)

L’Escargot. Serving the their namesake since 1832, this restaurant is known for their Burgundy snails in the shell. The restaurant has an old world feel and is adorned with a giant gold snails. 

Brasserie Floderer. Classic French restaurant known for seafood, wine and ambiance.

Cafe Charlot. A small corner bistro with lovely sidewalk dining. It’s a great spot for breakfast or brunch.

Breizh Cafe. A crêperie known for their inventive crêpes and ciders.

Le Syndicat. A cocktail bar with drinks made from 100% French spirits, rated as one of the top 50 bars in the world.

Deviant. A tiny French kitchen serving serving seafood entrees with a large wine selection. The restaurant has a standing only bar inside and bistros on the sidewalk.

Arrondissements & Neighborhoods 

Paris is broken up into 20 Arrondissements. Starting in the center of the city and spiraling out like a snail shell. Different neighborhoods correspond too and overlap multiple Arrondissements.

Montmartre. Located in the 18th Arr. and known as the neighborhood on the hill. The area is popular for its Impressionist history, artists, nightlife, and charming houses. Nearby sights include the Moulin Rouge and Basilica of the Sacre-Coeur. The neighborhood is accessible via a funicular or a large set of steps. 

Le Marais. Located in the 4th Arr. This is oldest Parisian neighborhood and the center of the LGBTQ+ community. Known for its cobblestone streets, stately architecture, courtyards, cafes, cocktail bars and vintage shopping.

Latin Quarter. Located in the 5th Arr. A university neighborhood, this area of Paris is popular for its bars, cabarets and distance from large tourist attractions.

Saint Germain des Pres. Located in the 6th Arr. This neighborhood is home to many bookshops, galleries, cafes and design shops.

10th Arrondissement. A quiet neighborhood lining the Canal Saint Martin with plenty restaurants to eat at and street art to spot. We stayed here in an Airbnb that was once a bakery operated by nuns. 

2nd Arrondissement. Known for its arcades, boutiques, fine dining and cocktail bars. The neighborhood is worth wandering and getting lost in.

Getting Around 

On Foot. When we visited Paris, the city was in the middle of the largest transit strike in years. Trains, buses and all forms of public transit were shut down. As a result, we explored the city almost entirely on foot. 

By Taxi. When the distance was too far to walk, we requested Ubers and called taxis. To get across town, they were rarely more than $20. 

Airport Taxi. Taxis are the most direct way to leave/get to the airport but also the most expensive. You can expect to pay between €30 and €50 from either airport to get to the city center. 

French Words & Phrases 

Many people in Paris speak English however Parisians adore when foreigners try to speak French. Some of the most common words and phrases we used are: 

Bonjour = Hello or Good morning

Au revoir = Goodbye

Bonsoir = Good evening

Merci = Thank you

Merci beaucoup = Thank you very much

S’il vous plaît = Please

De Rien = You’re welcome

Excusez-moi = Excuse me

La carte, s’il vous plaît = The menu, please

L’addition s’il vous plaît = The check, please

Je voudrais… = I would like…

Je t'aime = I love you

Next time in Paris… 

A long weekend in Paris is great to see a number of the sights, neighborhoods and get a taste for the cuisine. We have a few ideas of what to do next time we’re back in Paris:

• Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen. Paris’ most famous flea market for over 150 years with 3000+ merchants selling vintage items, antiques, artwork, books, furniture, etc.

• See More Art:

Musee d’ Orsay - Impressionist and art nouveau museum in a converted glass train station.

Musee Picasso - The largest collection of Picasso’s art in the world.

• Take a Day Trip:

Palace of Versailles - Spend a full day exploring the King Louis XIV’s famous palace and grounds.

Mont Saint Michel - Tour the medieval fortified city island surrounded by water during high tide located in Normandy, France.

Claude Monet Home - Visit the home where Monet painted many of his Impressionist works, including the famous Water Lillies.

• Take a French Baking class 

Le Cordon Bleu. 2 Day Traditional Bread Baking 

Du Pain et des Idées. 3 Day Baking Class 

Arctic Adventure in Tromsø

Tromsø, Norway

Tromsø is a breathtaking city in Northern Norway, located about 200 miles north of the Arctic Circle. Our entire stay in Tromsø felt like we were living in a snow globe. The city and surrounding nature is truly a winter wonderland that felt warm and vibrant even during the darkest and coldest time of the year. During our stay, we saw the Northern Lights, snowshoed up a mountain overlooking a fjord, fed reindeer and learned about the indigenous Sami culture.  

Gateway to the Arctic

Tromsø is considered to be the gateway to the Arctic. Its proximity to the Norwegian Sea and temperate climate for its position so far north have made it an ideal spot for Arctic explorers and expeditions throughout history. Its location under the Aurora Oval makes it a prime place to view the Northern Lights. 

Polar Night & The Midnight Sun

For two months, from late November through late January, the sun does not rise above the horizon. During this time of the the year, known as Polar Night, nearly all hours of the day are dark. For a few short hours during the morning, the sky brightens up enough to feel like an extended dawn. The addition of snow makes the landscape feel even brighter as it reflects more natural light.

The opposite is true from late May through late July. During this time of the year, known as the Midnight Sun, the sun never sets below the horizon. It stays bright for all hours of the day however when the sun reaches closest to the horizon, the sky lights up with beautiful colors seen during sunset and sunrise. 

The Northern Lights

One of the most popular things to do in Tromsø is watch for the Northern Lights. The city sits directly under the Aurora Oval, the ovular path the Northern Lights appear above Earth’s northern magnetic pole. As a result, if the conditions are right, the Aurora can be seen dancing and swaying above Tromsø during the evening. The best time of the year to see the Aurora in Tromsø is from late September through early April. We visited from late November through early December.

Northern Lights Safari

Though the Aurora can be seen above the city, the best way to see it is by traveling outside of Tromsø to escape from the light pollution. We managed to see the lights above the city one night during our stay but truly got to experience them during a “Northern Lights Safari” with a local guide. Local guides will take you outside the city to a nearby Fjord or as far away as Finland and Sweden to give you the best chance possible of seeing the lights. There are dozens of experienced guides and tour companies offering safaris to chase the Aurora. We booked with a company called Enjoy the Arctic. 

We chose them over other companies because they offered smaller tours with a maximum of 8 people. It made for a more intimate and personal night as we waited for the Aurora to appear. We drove an hour outside the city to a fjord called Grøtfjorden where we were able to watch the Aurora dance across the sky nearly the whole evening. We even spotted a few meteors. Our guide helped us take photos, built a fire to keep us warm and provided us with warm drinks and veggie dogs to eat. 

Aurora Spotting Tips

• It needs to be very dark. Let your eyes adjust.

• Keep flashlights pointed down or used red lights.

• It needs to be a clear evening, preferably no clouds or haze. 

• Use an app called Norway Lights to watch the Aurora forecast. It told us what our chances were of seeing the Aurora based on our location and the time of night:

• The human eye has a difficult time taking in enough light at night to recognize the Aurora’s true colors like cameras do. With your naked eye, it will appear mostly pale green or dark purple with the occasional flair of neon. Regardless of the intensity of its color, the Aurora is truly a sight to be see. 

• Any DSLR camera will be able to photograph the Aurora. Our DSLR settings were: 

  • Camera (Nikon D300S)

  • 50mm Lens 

  • Aperture (F1.8)

  • ISO (1250)

  • Sutter Speed (2.5)

• If you don’t have a DSLR but have an iPhone, you can buy a photography app called Northern Lights. It adjusts your phone’s camera to better photograph the Aurora.

• Alway use a tripod to take photos. Your hands will be too shaky to take a clear image. 

• Dress in warm layers! It is going to be very cold and windy.

Sami Culture & Reindeer

The Sami People are a semi-nomadic nation spread throughout Scandinavia with a tradition based in reindeer herding. For thousands of years, they have established a livelihood using the reindeer for meat, fur and transportation. While in Tromsø, we booked an experience with Tromsø Arctic Reindeer, operated by a tour company and family of Sami people to promote their culture, share their stories and offer close experiences with their herd of reindeer.

Sled Ride

To make it better, we then took a 30 minute sled ride. Guided by two Sami people, the reindeer slowly escorted us around their pasture. We were a little apprehensive about a sled ride at first but we quickly realized how well treated the animals were. They went at their own pace and didn’t seem tired or overworked in the slightest. The family genuinely showed care and love for the reindeer that they’ve herded for generations. 

Reindeer Feeding

After our sled ride, we were able to feed them buckets of food (no, not the glitter and oats you toss outside for Santa’s reindeer) but hearty pellets of grain. They typically graze on the grass beneath the snow but once the snow is too packed down for them to break through they feed on pellets or relocate to a new field. The reindeer, still wild animals, were very excited for the food. They were gentle however at times one would nudge you for attention then burry their face into the bucket. It was amazing getting to be so up close and personal with these animals. Everyone, from children to their grandparents, had a memorable time interacting with the reindeer. 

Sami Culture

After feeding them we went inside one of the tents where the family’s mother greeted us with hot coffee and cookies around a wood burning stove. We spent time here warming up before heading to a communal tent for dinner. Many people enjoyed the reindeer stew however we stuck to the vegetarian option. After dinner, we moved to a different tent, called a lavvu, known for communal gatherings and ceremonies. We sat around a log fire listening to the camp owner and multiple reindeer herders talk about their life and the Sami Culture. 

They explained the purpose of the traditional clothing and items they carry, many of which were handmade from reindeer. They sung songs, called a joik, which is a traditional form of music sung to someone or something of importance in their lives. The eldest herder told us how he sings for the reindeer and to scare away predators. It was truly a one of a kind and educational experience getting to hear stories from the Sami people and feed their herd. 

Snowshoeing & Fjord Tour

While in Tromsø, we wanted to take advantage of the incredible landscape and scenery of Northern Norway. The snow-covered mountain peaks and dramatic fjords were top of mind. We booked a snowshoeing excursion with another local guide company called Northern Horizon. They provided us with transport, an experienced guide, snowshoes, poles and a meal during our trip.

The Assent

Our guide took us and three others to a small town along the Norwegian Sea called Tromvik. The drive from Tromsø took a little over an hour and passed through, Grøtfjorden, the same fjord we watched the Northern Lights from. It was a beautifully scenic drive with remarkable fjord views. 

From there, we drove further into the hillside before parking and ascending the mountain. We spent about 2 hours snow-shoeing the side of the mountain during the brightest hours of the morning before reaching one of its peaks. From the peak, we could look directly across the fjord at a salmon farm and straight out towards the Norwegian Sea. 

Prepare for the Weather

The hike wasn’t too difficult but it definitely helped having an experienced guide leading the way, watching out for icy crevices and incoming weather. The climate would change frequently. At times, the temperature would drop several degrees or a blizzard would roll in. This was especially true, the higher we climbed in elevation. 

Norwegian Salmon

The decent down the mountain side took about 30 minutes. By the time we reached the car, it was nearly dark again. On our way back to Tromsø we stopped in a town called Kvaløysletta to visit Eide Handel AS, a grocery store with a deli counter displaying all types of Norwegian Salmon. They offered dozens of samples, which we tried, before buying a packaged smoked filet to bring home.  

Sights & Museums 

The Arctic Cathedral. Tromsø’s most recognized site is an Arctic architectural beauty. The modern cathedral, built in 1965, is inspired by the serene arctic landscape surrounding it. The 11 triangles that form its shape are reminiscent of snowy mountain peaks. The pews inside are made from local pine and cushioned in reindeer leather.   

Tromsøbura. The 1km bridge connecting the island of Tromsøya, where most of Tromsø is located, to the adjacent island. The bridge has a pedestrian path which can be walked across in 15 minutes. 

Fjellheisen (Tromsø Cable Car) Atop of the mountain across from the island of Tromsøya is an incredible lookout that offers views of the entire city and beyond. This is where we saw the Aurora on our first night. The view is accessible via a cable car or a series of 1,300 mountainside stairs. We took the cable car, however if you opt for the stairs and its snowy, make sure to wear spikes on your boots to prevent slipping and falling. 

Storgata. The downtown Main Street lined with many restaurants, hotels, bars, cafes and shops. 

Waterfront Warft. The city center and harbor surrounded by many contemporary buildings.

Skansen. A historic neighborhood located near Tromsøbura on Tromsøya with old painted wooden buildings from the 1850s. 

Polaria. A poler aquarium designed to evoke the fractured ice floes seen throughout the Arctic waterways. Each shard of the building is stacked up against one another forming a giantess slanted mass.

The Science Center of Northern Norway. A planetarium with footage of the Aurora captured during a two year period. If we hadn’t seen the Northern Lights, this would have been the best alternative.

Lake Prestvannet. Fairly central on the island, the lake is surrounded by a number of hiking and cross country skiing trails.

Our Favorite Restaurants, Cafes & Bars

Fiskekompaniet. A higher end restaurant specializing in Norwegian seafood, this is where we had one of the best meals during our trip. We started with a creamy fish soup. It was served in a bowl with a delicate pile of smoked salmon and white fish. The server then poured a kettle of creamy broth over the fish filling the bowl. I enjoyed a crusted filet of cod with a side of potatoes and dill. Devin went for a Norwegian staple, Lutefisk. For desert, we shared a plate of cocoa and coffee ice cream. 

Dragoy. Located along the waterfront warft. Dragoy is a deli counter that sells and cooks up fresh seafood. We shared cold water prawns with artesian mayonnaise on a large slice of sourdough bread. They’re also known for their fish and chips. 

Bardus Bistro. Located inside an old yellow wooden house, this charming restaurant offers a small menu of traditional Norwegian dishes.

Bardus Bar. Located next door to Bardus Bistro, this bar offers the best cocktails in town. It’s great spot to stop before or after dinner next door.

Olhallen. This is the city’s oldest pub and brewery with a selection of nearly 50 different selections of beer. 

Raketten. A historic outdoor kiosk offering hot chocolate, mulled wine, reindeer and veggie sausage. Next to the kiosk is a patio with seating and a warm log fire.

Smørtorget. A cafe offering pastries and open face sandwiches. It’s a great spot to have breakfast before setting out on an excursion.

FRØ. An inventive cafe, they make healthy sandwiches from thin waffles and also known for their pistachio cream buns.

Norwegian Food & Drink

Lutefisk. Air-dried white fish that goes through a several day process involving soaking in water and lye to rehydrate the fish. As the fish rehydrates, it looses a portion of its protein becoming slightly gelatinous. The fish is then cooked and served with potatoes and multiple condiments and sides including peas, pickled veggies, brown cheese, melted butter and mustard.

Norwegian Salmon. Caught and farmed in the fjords of Norway, Salmon is prepared and served in many ways. The most common styled is smoked though it is also often fried, boiled or served raw.

Pickled Veggies. Almost every meal we enjoyed was topped with pickled veggies. Carrot, fennel, beed, cucumber and onion were quite common. They added extra flavor and color to each dish. 

Lefse. Traditional Norwegian flatbread made with potatoes, flour, butter, and milk.

Buns. A pastry that ranges from sweet rolls, to swirls or knots.

Mulled Wine. Hot spiced wine was very popular. The Norwegian way of making it is by adding a spoon full of chopped nuts and raisins before serving. 

Getting Around 

Getting to Tromsø. To fly into Tromsø, you’ll likely need to transfer in Oslo. Booking directly through Norwegian Airlines is usually the most convenient and affordable option. Tromsø is about a 2 hour flight from Oslo. 

To/From Tromsø Airport. Use Flybussen, the airport express bus. It routinely travels in a loop from the airport to multiple hotels in central Tromsø. It costs roughly $18 for a round trip ticket. 

Getting Around Tromsø. The city and surrounding area is walkable, though a bit hilly and icy during the winter. The main street, Storgata, has heated sidewalks that keep snow and ice from freezing. Outside of this, it’s best to be cautious while walking on the snow and ice. We had a few slips ourselves but were layered in enough clothing to keep us from bruising. We noticed that many people wore spikes on their boots for extra traction. Just remember to take them off before entering indoors. One of the cutest things we saw were mother’s pushing their children in strollers with sleds instead of wheels. 

Taxi. Taxi’s can be pricy but are convenient when trying to get around outside the Main Street. The two main taxi companies are Tromsø Taxi and Din Taxi. Uber is not yet an option here. This is a general breakdown of cost:

• Around Town: $10 - $15 (From downtown to the cable car)

• Across Town: $16 - $35 (From the airport to downtown)

• Outside of Town: $36 - $60 (From Tromsø to a nearby town)

Getting Outside of Town. Renting a car is the best option to get between Tromsø and anywhere else outside the city. Nearly all excursions will include transportation to and from. 

What to Wear

If you’re visiting in the wintertime like we did, you need to dress warm. It is the Arctic after all. You’ll need a base layer, mid layer and outer layer. Tuck your base and mid layers into each other to better hold in heat and prevent wind from getting under your clothes. In addition to layers, we also used thermal toe and hand warmers while we were snowshoeing and watching for the Northern Lights. 

Base Layer

• Thermal underwear

• Thermal long sleeve shirt 

• Wool socks

• Wool gloves 

Mid Layer 

• Jeans or pants

• A cute Norwegian sweater (you can buy one in town)

• A lightweight quilted jacket (down or down alternative) 

• More socks (you’ll need to double up) 

Outer Layer 

• Snow pants (mainly for extended periods outdoors) 

• Winter coat (you’ll want something that will break the wind and truly keep you warm)

• More gloves (you’ll need to double up) 

• A warm scarf and hat 

• Boots (bring strap on spikes or cleats) 

If we had more time…

Vulkana Spa Boat. This boat has a saltwater hot tub, sauna, steam bath and zen lounge with a fireplace. The crew also provides dinner and facilitates cold water plunges in the harbor. 

Husky Experience. The are various companies that multiple types of Husky experiences. Some experiences include husky mushing, dog sledding and even cuddling with the cute puppies. Experiences can vary from short 30 minute trips, to hour long excursions and overnight stays watching for the Northern Lights. 

company we looking into is Aurora Husky Trekking

Whale Spotting / Fjord Tour. Orcas and Humpbacks are frequently seen in the winter months from November - February while hunting for herring. There is a number tour companies offering boat trips through the fjords and sometimes into the Norwegian Sea.  Two of the companies we looked into are Wild Seas and Pukka Travels Rib Boats.

Wild Seas specialized in protecting, researching and observing the whales. They’re an ethical company that will take you on a full day tour using special equipment to listen for whales and observe from a healthy distance. 

Pukka Travels offers multiple fjord tours where you can go sightseeing, whale watching and arctic fishing.