Istanbul, Turkey
Istanbul, Turkey
Istanbul is a stylish city at the cross roads of time and cultures. It straddles two continents, embracing its European charm and Middle Eastern influences. Vibrant neighborhoods are teeming with indie cafes, diverse restaurants, lively bars, sweets shops and all manner of boutiques. The modern metropolis has a storied history dating back to ancient times with historic sights, royal palaces, grand mosques and sprawling bazaars.
Neighborhoods & Streets
Karaköy (Galata). A hilly neighborhood centered on one of the city’s main landmarks, the medieval Galata Tower. The area is a beautiful place to stay and explore. Its cobblestone streets are lined with historic European architecture, vintage shops, artisan jewelers, Turkish restaurants, tiny cafes and happening bars.
Umbrella Street. A photogenic street in Karaköy covered in a canopy of colorful umbrellas and grape vines. It’s lined with dozens of cafes and coffee shops.
Mumhane Street. A trendy street home to elevated restaurants, cocktail bars, Turkish sweets shops, designer boutiques and street food stands.
Sofyali Street. A narrow street in the Karaköy with dozens of pubs and bars. Come here for local beers, cocktails and light bites.
Eminönü. A vast neighborhood of Istanbul home to historic sights, Ottoman style mosques and markets including the Grand Bazaar and Egyptian Market.
Sultanahmet. The oldest neighborhood of Istanbul home to cobble stone alleyways, neoclassical architecture and landmark sights like The Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace.
Kadikoy. A trendy neighborhood on the Asian side of Istanbul. It’s a young and non touristy spot with bustling streets, dozens of cafes, cocktail bars and pubs. Come here on a Friday night to experience the city’s nightlife. Visit Fahri Konsolos and Lelabbo Modafor cocktails and Muhit Kadiköyfor local beers.
Getting Here. Kadikoy is reachable by a public ferry from the riverfronts in Eminönü and Karaköy. Ferries run every half an hour late into the night.
See the Sights
Hagia Sophia. A landmark mosque and one of the most important buildings from the Byzantine period. It has survived over 1,700 years, witnessing the rise and fall of empires and religions. Its multi-domed structure features buttresses and Islamic minarets. The interior mezzanine offers views of its domed ceilings, stone walls, early Christian mosaics and emerald carpeted prayer hall.
Hagia Sophia Museum. A museum dedicated to the history of the Hagia Sophia and Istanbul. An audio visual guide narrates its key moments in time from the founding of Constantinople, the rise & fall of Byzantine & Ottoman Empires, the expansion of Christianity & Islam and centuries of additions & restorations.
Blue Mosque. An iconic Ottoman style mosque with a series of domed roofs and pairs of tiered minarets. The interior prayer hall is adorned with hand painted blue tiles, elaborately painted ceilings and colorful stained glass windows. Massive columns support the domed structure while as series of suspended lanterns illuminate its interior. Entrance is fee. Plan to arrive before 8am.
Basilica Cistern. A vast subterranean cistern from the 6th Century of Constantinople. Warm lights illuminate the cistern in a dim glow. Walkways lead above the flooded floor as columns reflect across the still water. Its vaulted brick ceilings are held up by hundreds of tall Corinthian style columns. Two of the most notable sit on the bases depicting the head of Medusa.
Galata Tower. A medieval watch tower built on a hill overlooking Istanbul. Its top floor boasts panoramic views or the sprawling city and the Bosporus River. A light show is projected on the facade at night Visit at 8:30am when it opens to avoid the crowds.
Istanbul Archaeological Museum. A museum housing a collection of ancient artifacts from across Mediterranean civilizations dating back thousands of years.
The Sarcophagus Room features ornately carved marble sarcophagi decorated with battle scenes, mythical creatures and originally painted surfaces.
The Ancient Greek Hall displays life-life statues and reliefs of Greek gods, emperors and human figures like Apollo, Zeus and Alexander the Great.
The Treasures Hall showcases golden olive leaf crowns, jewelry and ancient coins minted with the faces of emperors from the ancient Roman, Greek and Byzantine empires.
Chora Church. An ancient stone church built more than 100 years before the Hagia Sophia. Its domed ceilings and vaulted interiors are adorned with 14th Byzantine mosaics. Some can be viewed for free from the outside.
The Walls of Constantinople. A 4th Century stone and brick wall surrounding the ancient city of Constantinople. It’s stationed with watch towers, arched gates and toothed battlements. The best preserved sections are along the Bosphorus River and Northwest side of the city.
Aqueduct of Valens. The remnants of a double arched aqueduct from the 4th century of Constantinople. Today cars drive through its arches along a modern road in the city of Istanbul.
Suleymaniye Mosque. The largest ottoman style mosque in Istanbul. It features a multi-domed roof, pairs of minarets and an arched courtyard and prayer hall adorned with Islamic calligraphy. Built on a hill, the outer lawn offers scenic views of the city.
Visit the Sultan’s Palaces
Topkapi Palace. The historic and traditional palace of the Ottoman sultans. The grounds include ceremonial, administrative and living quarters used by the sultan, hist family and advisors. Many spaces have been converted into exhibits and museums.
Gate of Salutation. A medieval style stone gate with twin spires. It makes the entrance to the palace grounds.
Gülhane Park. A city park built on the grounds of the former palace gardens. Stone paved walkways are flanked by grassy lawns, flowering gardens, towering sycamore trees, manicured hedges and Roman ruins. Food vendors wait outside of the park’s walls selling ears of corn, roasted chestnuts and simit.
Baghdad Pavilion. An ottoman style pavilion decorated in hand painted blue tiles and varying natural stones. Its ornate interior features a domed ceiling, colorful stained glass windows and a throne for the sultans.
The Marble Terrace. A series of marble paved terraces with hilltop views overlooking the Bosphorus River, Golden Horn and city of Istanbul.
Imperial Treasury. An opulent exhibit with the Crown Jewels and priceless treasures of the Ottoman Empire. On display are golden and bejeweled objects including jewelry, thrones, medals, daggers, swords, armor and Qurans covers.
Sultan's Clothing Exhibit. A two floor exhibit of the Sultan’s traditional clothing. On display are ceremonial outfits, military uniforms, intricately embroidered tunics, fur lined kaftans and accessories like turbans, fezes, boots and belts.
The Holy Relics. A palace hall with artifacts from the various profits of the Abrahamic religions. On display is the staff of Moses, the sword of David, a Skull fragment of John the Baptist, the Robe of Mohammad and the Coat of Fatima.
Dolmabahçe Palace. An opulent and lavish palace built along the banks of the Bosphorus River. It was built by the Ottoman Sultan’s to rival the royal palaces of Europe, combining neoclassical and baroque styles.
Selamlik. A truly lavish building used to run state affairs. Its gilded interiors are styled with marble columns, intricately patterned wood floors and Baroque style ceilings. Beige painted walls are decorated with gold framed mirrors and portraits of the sultans. Rooms are furnished with Persian carpets, crystal chandeliers and antique furniture.
The Crystal Staircase. A double horseshoe shaped staircase and key feature of the Selamlik. Crystal banisters line each step as a massive crystal chandelier hands overhead.
The Harem. The ornate living quarters for the sultan and his family. Its interior chambers include apartments, halls, baths and wardrobes for the sultan, his mother and multiple wives.
National Painting Museum. A building designed for the sultan’s heirs. It’s now an art museum displaying Ottoman and Turkish paintings. Galleries showcase portraits of the sultans and princes, the Ottoman navy, seasonal scenes of Istanbul, its iconic mosques and the Bosporus River.
Pro Tip. Visit the second floor parlor cafe for Turkish coffee and a slice of mosaic cake.
Good to Know. No photos are allowed inside of any of the palace buildings.
Shop the Markets & Bazaars
The Grand Bazaar. A historic complex with thousands of shops built into a sprawling network of covered streets, domed passageways and vaulted arcades. Merchants sell Turkish coffee makers, Persian rugs, Ottoman lamps, gold jewelry, antiques, leather goods, faux designer bags and Turkish sweets. Visit during the early afternoon and stop by Çarşu Kebapfor a traditional Turkish lunch.
The Egyptian Market (Spice Market). A vaulted passageway lined with shops selling colorful piles of spices, herbal teas, dried fruits and Turkish delight, nougat and baklava. Shop around for the best prices and always negotiate for a deal.
Places to Eat & Drink
Ali Muhiddin Hacı Bekir. The original confectioner that perfected the recipe for Turkish Delight. Their chain of unassuming shops isn’t as flashy as others but attracts loyal locals and those with a love of the famed treat.
Galata Kitchen. A restaurant with a selection of Turkish and Mediterranean dishes sold by the plate. Try the artichoke hearts, grape leaves, stuffed peppers, stewed eggplant and beet salad.
Çarşu Kebap. A Turkish restaurant along a side passage of the Grand Bazaar. While they specialize in meat, they offer vegetarian dishes like lentil soup, cucumber tazkiki with cheese pide.
Vegan Community Kitchen Restaurant. A small restaurant serving homestyle vegan versions of traditional Turkish dishes like Döner Kebap and Manti.
Tarihi Eminönü Balik Ekmek. A riverfront restaurant serving Balik Ekmek, sandwiches with filets of mackerel griddled on a floating kitchen. It’s a hyper local place to enjoy an affordable meal.
Daroute Coffee. A cafe nearby the Blue Mosque with traditional Turkish Coffee. Order the set paired with Turkish Delight and hibiscus juice.
Tarihi Cihangir Simit Firni. A historic hole in the wall bakery with homestyle baklava, simit, pide and pastries. Come here for their sweet and savory Turkish bakes
Privato Cafe. A breakfast spot specializing in traditional Turkish spreads served with breads, jams, butters, cheeses, sweet and savory pastries, fried eggs and tea.
Fahri Konsolos. A pocket bar with elegantly presented cocktails and signature drinks made with seasonal ingredients. Try the gin forward cucumber and rose cocktail or mule mug topped with olive oil fried parsley.
Muhit Kadıköy. A popular pub style bar with inexpensive drinks and light bites. Come here for Turkish beers and flavored French fries.
Lelabbo Moda. A bar with a vintage atmosphere and classic cocktails made with house techniques as well as a range of creative signature cocktails. Try the Smoked Fiesta and Burnt Not Smoked.
Benden Karaköy. A street side restaurant and bar along the Umbrella Street with Turkish dishes and wines. Try the Yeni Raki, a local anise flavored liquor mixed with water.
Tower Pub. A cocktail bar steps away from the Galata Tower. Come here for the chill vibes, local beers and well made cocktails.
Turkish Cuisine
Döner Kebap. A Turkish style sandwich made from slices of rotisserie grilled meat combined with veggies in a pita.
Manti. A small Turkish style dumping often filled with meat and garnished with yogurt.
Balık Ekmek. A Turkish fish sandwich made with filets of griddled mackerel, lettuce and tomatoes.
Pide. A ovular boat shaped pastry cradling a pool of melted cheese. It’s common on menus across the country.
Simit. A sesame seeded ring shaped pastry similar to a bagel. It’s commonly eaten at breakfast with coffee.
Börek. A snaked together flaky pastry stuffed with savory or sweet fillings. Try the spinach and cheese version.
Midye Dolma (Stuffed Mussels). A common street food snack served at carts across the city. Mussels are stuffed with rice, berries and spices then served with a generous squeeze of lemon.
Turkish Delight. A gelatinous candy made with a range of flavors like rose, mint, lemon and orange. It’s cut into cubes and dusted in corn starch. Higher end versions are mixed with or encrusted in nuts and flowers then formed into elegant looking rolls or bricks.
Turkish Coffee. Finely ground coffee slowly brewed in a long handed copper pot over heated sand. It has a smooth and strong flavor.
Baklava. A flaky bite sized pastry made with layers of chopped nuts. It’s soaked in a sugar or honey glaze. It comes in a variety of styles and shapes.
Getting Around
Public Transit. The city’s metro, trams, buses and ferries are the best way to travel across Istanbul. Buy a reloadable Istanbul Card from one of the kiosks at any metro station to use across all lines including to or from the airport.
Uber. Uber is available in Istanbul. It’s a good for getting across the city quickly though can be expensive compared to public transit.
On Foot. Plan to spend time exploring neighborhoods on foot. It’s the best way to experience the vibrant urban landscape of the city, its history and culture.
Where to Stay
Mayer Tatarbeyi. An apartment building with different style short term rentals. We stayed in a street view apartment with a comfy bed, cozy living area and kitchenette. The building has a rooftop terrace with city views! Reserve on Booking.
Location Specifics
When to Visit. Istanbul is beautiful in late September and early October. It’s a quieter time to visit, post peak season. Try to visit major attractions during the morning on weekdays to avoid the largest crowds.
Language. Turkish is the national language however English is commonly spoken by most people, written on menus, museum descriptions and transit signs.
Cash Vs Card. Credit card is widely accepted across the city. It’s good to carry some Turkish Lira for cash only business or places with minimum spends.
Beware of Pricing Scams. Confirm the price before ordering or buying anything not clearly marked. If paying by card, confirm the price again before charging it.
Tipping. A 10% tip is standard across Turkey. It’s often included on most bills when paying.
Visiting Mosques. Non-Muslims can enter most mosques outside of prayer times. Plan to dress modestly by covering your legs and shoulders. Women must cover their hair.
Buying Baklava. When buying baklava, avoid the tourist shops on the busy streets and seek out a small local bakery. The baklava will be tastier and cheaper.
Stray Cats. Street cats and kittens are lovingly embraced in Istanbul. They’re a common sight across the city and strolling through business.
Smoking. Smoking is extremely common in Istanbul. People light up in restaurants, bars and on the street. It’s practically unavoidable for non-smokers or people with allergies.
LGBTQ+ Safety. Istanbul is a welcoming and accepting city in a more conservative country. We had no problems as an openly gay couple, wearing our wedding rings, dressing as ourselves or sharing a bed. PDA is frowned upon between most people.
For Next Time…
Istanbul is one of the few destinations we could see ourselves living! When we return, it may be for an extended period of time. Having visited the tourist sights, we plan to experience more local areas of the city and return to the neighborhood of Kadikoy.
