Montgomery St. Peter Montgomery St. Peter

Marseille Travel Guide: Calanques, Vieux-Port & Mediterranean Culture

Explore Marseille's gritty streets and the historic Vieux-Port where Mediterranean culture, bustling markets and seaside charm meet rugged coastal landscapes.

French flags flying above the Palais de la Bourse in Marseille, France beneath a clear blue Mediterranean sky.

Marseille, France’s Second City

Marseille, France’s Second City, has a certain “je ne sais quoi” to its beauty, grittiness and old world charm. The city streets are lined with historic buildings and graffitied alleys while its seaside is defined by Mediterranean blues, rugged cliffs and fishing boats.

View across Marseille's Vieux-Port toward Palais du Pharo and the Mediterranean coastline on a sunny afternoon.

Mediterranean Influences  

Marseille is a historic port city located along the Mediterranean Coast. It was founded over 2,600 years ago and is one of the oldest surviving cities in Europe. Throughout the ages, it has been a hub for goods including seafood, olives and grapes as well as transportation and immigration. Today, many North African immigrants call the city home and have integrated their own cultures into the French city. 

MuCEM (Museum of Civilizations of Europe and the Mediterranean).  The MuCEM is Marseille’s historic and cultural museum. It explores the civilization and anthropology of the European and nomadic people in the Mediterranean and Marseille’s importance both historically and in the present day. The museum displays various artifacts, paintings, maps and contains permanent and temporary exhibits. The museum itself is a piece of art with a black filigreed concrete skin covering the building. The museum’s rooftop and cafe is a nice spot to relax in the shade provided by the unique shadows of the structure while overlooking the city’s historic port. Contrasting the museum is a pedestrian bridge connecting it to the medieval ruins of Fort St Jean. 

Explore the Neighborhoods

Vieux Port.  Easily the most recognizable feature of Marseille, this harbor in the city center is lined with hundreds of sailing and fishing boats. The surrounding buildings are home to many seafood restaurants serving the catch of the day and the iconic fish stew, bouillabaisse. Midway through the Vieux Port is a small ferry that connects both sides of the harbor departing every 15 minutes. 

Le Panier.  The historic quarter of Marseille with stepped sidewalks, narrow streets and lots of plants. It’s a quiet neighborhood a few blocks away from the Vieux Port with small shops, artist studios, graffiti and colorful murals. Walk down Rue du Panier, a photogenic street with numerous boutiques and shops.

Cours Julien.  An artistic and grungy neighborhood recognizable by its graffitied buildings and iconic steps. Its streets are home to boutiques, vintage shops, cafes, bistros, bars and the Cours Julien Farmer’s Market. 

Cours Julien Farmer’s Market.  A small but bustling market is held every Wednesday morning in the plaza next to the Notre-Dame du Mont subway station. Locals purchase their weekly groceries as animated vendors shout from behind tables and musicians offer live performances. Vendors sell everything from meat, seafood, cheese, honey, jams, wine, fruits, produce, herbs, bread, flowers and soaps.

Good to Know.  Bring cash for making purchases. Bread is sold by the loaf or by weight.

French picnic with cheese, bread, grapes, watermelon, pastries and wine at Jardins du Pharo in Marseille.

Have a Picnic 

Fresh from the Cours Julien Farmer’s Market, we sat down on the lawn of the Jardins du Pharo for an afternoon picnic. We shared a half watermelon, bunch of grapes, custard tart, jammed cookie, stinky and herbal cheeses, bread and French wine. 

See the Sights

Fort Saint Jean. A medieval fort located near the entrance of the Vieux Port across from the MuCEM. We explored its stone ruins, lush gardens and took in its views of the harbor.

Église Saint-Laurent, a historic stone church overlooking Marseille's Vieux-Port with its distinctive bell tower.

Église Saint Laurent.  A simple stone church built during the 12th century. It is a good example of other Mediterranean influences with its North African style bell tower and symmetrical Greek character. 

The striped stone facade and twin bell towers of Cathédrale La Major in Marseille against a cloudless blue sky.

Cathédrale La Major.  A Byzantine style cathedral with a black and white striped stone facade, multiple domed bell towers, soaring arches and Christian symbols.

Panoramic view of Marseille from the Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde overlooking the city and Mediterranean coast.

Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde Viewpoint.  A basilica located at the highest point in the city with panoramic views of Marseille and the coast. The cathedral and candle lit chapels below the sacristy are eerie but beautiful.

Palais du Pharo overlooking Marseille with a wide green lawn and historic palace above the Mediterranean coastline.

Palais & Jardins du Pharo.  A Neoclassical palace built for Napoleon on a green hillside overlooking the Mediterranean and the Vieux Port. Come here to picnic on the lawn or in the sculpture garden. 

Copper cookware, kitchen tools and vintage displays inside Maison Empereur, Marseille's historic kitchenware store.

Maison Empereur.  A 200 year old kitchenware and hardware store. Walking in the footsteps of Julia Child, we easily spent an hour exploring the two floors of interconnected rooms and packed aisles of copper cookware, kitchen gadgets and tall wooden displays.

White limestone cliffs and Mediterranean shoreline in Calanques National Park between Marseille and Cassis, France.

The Calanques National Park 

The Calanques are home to coastal rock formations, small islands and white limestone cliffs set against the deep blue Mediterranean Sea. They make up a national park stretching from Marseille towards Cassis. It's a rugged place to hike, explore ruins and find a beach with turquoise water to relax at and swim in.

Calanque de Sugiton Trail.  A coastal trail in The Calanques National Park leading to a hidden beach. The trail meanders along a series of limestone cliffs speckled with lush trees and green bushes, offering picturesque views of the Mediterranean Sea and dreamy wooden sailboats moored offshore.

Calanque de Sugiton Beach.  A narrow bay with a pebbly beach nestled between two cliffs. Come here to lounge onshore, swim through the shades of deep blue and turquoise water and cliff jump from rocky islands into the bay.

Getting Here.  The Calanques National Park is located about 40 minutes by car from the Vieux Port of Marseille. Drive and park at the Cité Universitaire Luminy. From here, forested roads and trails lead deeper into The Calanques National Park.  

Good to Know.  There is no specific route to reach Sugiton Beach. Use this Map Pin to locate the Sugiton Trail Head and this Map Pin to locate the Sugiton Beach. Follow the meandering trails in-between, planning to hike anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour. 

Îles du Frioul.  An archipelago off the coast of Marseille comprised of four islands and jagged rock formations.

  • Île Ratonneau.  The most developed island with a small town and sail boat dotted marina. Hiking trails lead across its dry and arid terrain to abandoned military structures, panoramic viewpoints and beaches.

  • Fort de Ratonneau.  The ruins of a hilltop military fortress with panoramic views of The Calanques, Mediterranean and Marseille. 

  • Plage de Saint-Estève.  A beautiful beach with a large turquoise cove and swimmable waters. It’s an ideal spot to cool off and relax after hiking across the island. 

  • Château de If.  A rocky island with a 16th century fort, later transformed into a prison. It’s said to have inspired Alexandre Dumas, The Count of Monte Cristo. We didn’t have time to visit the island but were able to admire it from the ferry and neighboring island. 

Palais du Pharo viewed from a ferry crossing Marseille's Vieux-Port toward Château d'If and the Frioul Islands.

Getting Here.  Îles du Frioul and Château de If are both reachable by ferry from the Vieux Port in Marseille, making for the perfect day trip. Le Bateau offers daily transfers and tours. Tickets can be purchased from the pier near the MuCEM or online. 

Traditional moules marinières served with French fries, bread and wine at a restaurant in Marseille, France.

Cuisine à la Marseillaise

The cuisine in Marseille is influenced by Provençal and Mediterranean ingredients resulting in a unique palette of flavors. Being a port city, it is especially known for its seafood.

Bouillabaisse.  A seafood stew typically made with the daily catch including a mixture of whole or filleted white fish, shellfish and shrimp. The seafood is prepared in a broth seasoned with saffron, tomato and other ingredients.

Moules Marinières. Steamed mussels cooked in a sauce made from white wine, butter, garlic, parsley and shallots. It’s typically served with frites, sliced baguette and house made mayonnaise.

Ratatouille.  A Provençal vegetable dish is made from a stewed or roasted combination of eggplant, zucchini, yellow squash and tomato. 

Tapenade. An olive, garlic, caper and anchovy spread. We often enjoyed it on a croissant or baguette. 

Pizza. A popular flatbread made with Mediterranean toppings like olives, anchovies and tomato.

Apple Tarte Tatin.  A classic French dessert with apples caramelized in butter and sugar on a layer of flaky pastry.

Crêpes Sucre.  A sweet crêpe often folded and sprinkled in sugar with a side of orange marmalade.

Meringue.  One of the classic French patisseries we saw all over the city! Egg whites whipped with sugar and baked into sweet delicate cookies. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Au Doyen. A seafood restaurant where we ate our first meal in France, moules marinières with frites and rosé. 

Le Miramar.  One of the higher end restaurants along the Vieux Port specializing in Bouillabaisse. In true French style, it prides itself on its preparation, presentation and authenticity. Read more about their recipe here

Les Arcenaulx.  An elegant restaurant inside of the library styled dining room with stone walls, timber beams and a large wine selection.

La Crêpe au Carré. A crêperie offering sweet and savory crepes. Try the buttery and sugary Crepes Sucre. 

Café des Arts.  A casual bistro facing the Vieux Port. Stop in for a pint of French beer and a late afternoon bite.

Boulangerie Gambetta.  A tiny bakery with sandwiches, pastries and bread. It’s a great place to buy a sandwich to takeaway en route to The Calanques.

Where to Stay

La Pension Edelweiss.  A bed and breakfast near the city center. From the outside, it looks like any other stone building with slim balconies and iron railings adorned with tiny planters. Once within, the interior feels uniquely French with a grand wooden staircase, high ceilings and large rooms all decorated in antique objects, mid-century furnishing and artwork. Make reservations online

Breakfast.  Each morning, the hotelier covered the dining table with a delicious spread of baguettes, croissants, hard boiled eggs, meats, cheeses, preserves, butter, tapenade, fresh coffee and orange juice. It was the most pleasant way to start the day and chat with other guests. 

Flowers.  We bought a bouquet of freshly cut sunflowers and displayed them in the empty wine bottles on the fireplace mantle in our hotel room.

Location Specifics 

Safety.  Marseille can be a little dodgy at times due to drug trafficking. The city center and Vieux Port are generally safe. Be mindful of your surroundings, especially later in the evenings. 

Airport Shuttle.  There is a regularly scheduled shuttle between the airport and St Charles Station central in Marseille. Tickets can be purchased from the office at both locations. 

Getting Around.  While Marseille is a large city, the city center and surrounding neighborhoods are easily walkable. 

Cash vs. Credit.  Credit cards are widely accepted across Marseille though carrying a small amount of cash is important for small transactions. 

Language.  French is the primary language in Marseille. Few people speak English or any other languages. Download Google Translate to help with conversations and interactions. 

French Wine. It’s no surprise that you’ll find good wine just about anywhere in France. Most grocery stores have a sommelier on staff that will recommend a bottle based on how you plan to drink it. Even better, a nice bottle typically costs just a few Euros. 

Provençal Soaps.  Marseille is famous for its Provençal soaps scented with local flowers, the most popular being lavender. They’re sold by the bottle in liquid form and in bars. 

The Eiffel Tower illuminated at sunset above the rooftops of Paris, France during blue hour.

Elsewhere in France

From Marseille’s coastal cliffs and historic port to Paris’s museums, neighborhoods and romantic cityscapes, discover more of France beyond the Mediterranean.

Paris Travel Guide: Eiffel Tower, Montmartre & Romantic Experiences Get lost wandering the historic streets of Paris, where charming cafés, timeless architecture and French culture turn every corner into a romantic discovery.

For Next Time… 

We fell in love with this French city, even after only spending a few days here. When we return, we want to continue exploring Marseille and venture out into the region including the countryside of Provence to see the lavender fields of La Ferme aux Lavandes and the cities of Aix-en-Provence and Montpellier. 

Read More
Montgomery St. Peter Montgomery St. Peter

Paris Travel Guide: Eiffel Tower, Montmartre & Romantic Experiences

Get lost wandering the historic streets of Paris, where charming cafés, timeless architecture and French culture turn every corner into a romantic discovery.

Eiffel Tower glowing at sunset above the rooftops of Paris with a colorful evening sky over the French capital.

Paris, The City of Love

Paris, the City of Love, is an enchanting place! Cafes and bistros spill onto the sidewalks of cobblestone streets and grand avenues. The scent of fresh bread wafts from boulangeries as colorful patisseries fill shop windows. Lively markets are brimming with everything from local produce to antiques and books. Historic monuments and world renowned museums celebrate French culture, arts and history. The River Seine gracefully meanders between Arrondissements while the Eiffel Tower stands prominently above it all. Paris holds a special place in our hearts as the city where we got engaged on our first visit. One phrase we can’t say enough is "Je t'aime Paris.” 

Couple celebrating their engagement on a rooftop overlooking the illuminated Eiffel Tower at sunset in Paris, France.

Our Engagement

On our first night in Paris, we dined at Les Ombres, overlooking the Eiffel Tower, beginning with wine on the terrace. As the sun set and a full moon rose, the tower suddenly began to sparkle, drawing us back outside where we stood alone, taking in the view. In that quiet, magical moment, Devin reflected on our life together before pulling out a small box containing a grape soda pin from Pixar’s Up and a delicate white gold ring and asked me to marry him. Through happy tears, I said yes as he slipped the ring onto my finger and pinned the badge to my lapel. We celebrated with champagne and dessert, then strolled to the Eiffel Tower, eventually ascending to the top where we admired Paris glowing around us. Toasting with sparkling rosé at the summit, newly engaged and overlooking the city, we felt like we were living a perfect and unforgettable fairy tale.

A Parisian Photoshoot 

On a separate trip to Paris, we hired a photographer to capture our love for each other and the city. We met as the sun lifted above the horizon, posing for photos against the backdrop of the Eiffel Tower on cobblestone streets, the riverfront and its bridges. The golden sunrise, amber toned leaves and freshly repainted bronze structure made for a romantic autumn activity. Book a 1 Hour Couples Session with Sofiane on Airbnb.

Montmartre

Montmartre is a neighborhood that embodies Parisian charm. Its picturesque streets are paved in cobblestones, lined with historic buildings and ivy covered homes. Its lively bistros flow out onto the sidewalks while pastry shops lure in passersby for a sweet. As the day turns to night, its bars stay open late serving French wines and cocktails while the cabarets put on performances and shows. French artists including Van Gogh, Degas and Toulouse Lautrec once lived here while modern day artists continue to call it home. 

Basilica of Sacré-Cœur.  A Byzantine style basilica with a large white dome located on the hill in the center of Montmartre. It’s a symbol of the neighborhood and city. The prayer hall can be freely entered when open while the dome can be visited for a fee. A series of spiral staircases and outdoor walkways lead along the roof to the interior of the dome with panoramic views of Paris.

Rue Lepic.  A winding cobblestone street on a steep incline with patisseries, chocolate shops, florists, fromageries, a seafood market, cafes, wine bars, many bistros and residences. Its most notable sight is the Moulin Radet, one of two historic windmills remaining in Montmartre. 

Boulevard de Clichy.  A tree lined boulevard with a pedestrian walkway at its center. Both sides of the boulevard are lined with bars, restaurants, sex shops and cabarets including the Moulin Rouge, the famous venue with a red windmill. 

Place du Tertre.  A bustling plaza known for its artists and bistros. It’s surrounded by restaurants that spill onto the sidewalk and into the center of the plaza. Artists sell Parisian themed art, brush colorful strokes across canvases and draw portraits of patient customers. Wafts of cigarette smoke, the smell of butter and music from accordion players fill the air.

Rue de Martyrs.  A lengthy market street with hundreds of bistros, cafes, boutiques, boulangeries, fromageries, patisseries and markets selling meats, seafoods, fruits, vegetables, coffee and chocolates.

Staircases of Montmartre.  Montmartre is known as the “neighborhood on the hill” and the highest natural point in Paris. Many tall staircases with unique vantage points cut through the neighborhood making it easy, though at times tiring, to get around on foot.

Rue de l’Abreuvoir.  One of the most picturesque streets in Paris with ivy covered houses, colorful buildings and a view overlooking Sacré-Coeur.

Rue des Abbesses.  A street lined with restaurants, coffee shops, boulangeries and boutiques ending at a plaza with a carousel and cathedral.

I Love You Wall.  A blue tiled wall with “I love you” written in hundreds of languages.

Clos Montmartre.  A small hillside vineyard and the last remaining one in Paris. It produces about 1,000 bottles of wine a year.

Fête de Vendanges (Wine Harvest Festival).  The yearly wine harvest festival held every October in Montmartre around the steps leading up to the Basilica of Sacré-Cœur. The multi day festival features dozens of wine makers from regions all over France including Clos Montmartre. Order by the glass at different tents or do as locals do and buy a bottle to share. In addition to wine makers, there are food stalls, performers, a parade and fireworks. The festival is free to enter.

Arrondissements & Neighborhoods 

Including Montmartre, Paris is broken up into 20 Arrondissements (Arr.) each starting in the center of the city and spiraling out like a snail shell. Different neighborhoods correspond to and overlap multiple Arrondissements.

Le Marais.  Located in the 4th Arr. This is the oldest Parisian neighborhood and the center of the LGBTQ+ community. Known for its cobblestone streets, stately architecture, courtyards, cafes, cocktail bars and vintage shopping.

Latin Quarter.  Located in the 5th Arr. A university neighborhood, this area of Paris is popular for its bars, cabarets and distance from large tourist attractions.

Saint Germain des Prés.  Located in the 6th Arr. This neighborhood is home to many bookshops, galleries, cafes and design shops.

10th Arrondissement.  A quiet neighborhood lining the Canal Saint Martin with plenty of restaurants to eat at and street art to spot. We stayed here in an Airbnb that was once a bakery operated by nuns. 

2nd Arrondissement.  Known for its arcades, boutiques, fine dining and cocktail bars. The neighborhood is worth wandering and getting lost in.

Visit the Sights

The Eiffel Tower.  You can’t visit Paris without seeing the Eiffel Tower. It’s the symbol of the city and one of the most recognizable sights in the world. The tower has three levels. The first two are accessible by stair and elevator. Take the elevator up and the stairs down, making for a leisurely and twisting descent through one of the tower’s legs. Both floors have incredible views of the inner structure and iron lattices of the tower as well as a number of restaurants, shops and a Macaron Bar. The tiniest elevator leads to the third level at the top of the tower and highest point in Paris. The nighttime views are absolutely stunning! Every amber glowing light and illuminated landmark in Paris twinkles. The top floor is home to Gustave Eiffel’s Laboratory and a Champagne Bar serving flutes of sparkling roséReserve tickets online for a specific time slot at least two weeks in advance.

Picnic in Champ de Mars.  A large park in front of the Eiffel Tower and perfect spot for picnicking. Bring a blanket and assortment of provisions like French bread, cheeses, fruits and wine. Accordion players serenade couples while vendors sell roses, champagne and statuettes of the Eiffel Tower.

Pro Tip.  Picnic during the daytime. Many rats scamper through the park at night, distracting from the romantic allure and atmosphere. 

Sainte Chapelle.  A highly ornamented gothic chapel dating back to the middle of the 13th century. It’s renowned for its massive purple hued stained glass windows, gold leafed arches, vaulted ceilings and stone facade. Book tickets online at least two weeks before visiting. 

Arc de Triomphe.   A magnificent arc and Napoleonic era war monument on the Champs-Élysées. It features four pillars, each marked by sculpted statues and reliefs of France’s military victories. A 284 step spiral staircase ascends to a museum and rooftop with panoramic views of Paris and the city’s spoke-like avenues. 

The Catacombs.  A macabre labyrinth of subterranean tunnels are home to the skeletal remains of over 7 million people. It’s truly an underworld of the dead. Its dimly lit and damp passageways are lined with layers of stacked femurs and skulls holding back smaller bones. The skulls, some artfully arranged into patterns like hearts and crosses, seemed to watch us as we wandered through. The catacombs wind hundreds of kilometers below Paris with just more than 1 kilometer open to visitors. Book online at least one week out at the Official Ticket Office. An audio guide is included with the ticket.

See Some Art

With a rich culture surrounding art and artists, Paris is the best place in the world to learn about art history and see some of the world’s masterpieces. 

Musée de l'Orangerie.   An Impressionist art museum built specifically to display a large collection of Monet’s Water Lilies and other impressionist paintings. 

The Louvre Pyramid.  A glass pyramid residing in the plaza of The Louvre, the world’s most famous art museum. We plan to explore its vast galleries on a future trip to Paris.

Centre Pompidou.   A contemporary art museum built “inside out” with all the building’s equipment, escalators and corridors exposed leaving more room for gallery space inside. The museum has since closed and is planned to reopen in 2030 after renovations. 

Stravinsky Fountain.  A landmark fountain across from the Centre Pompidou with a series of colorful sculptures spraying water into the pool below. The fountain itself is surrounded by a series of large murals. 

Elegant glass roofed Galerie Vivienne shopping arcade in Paris with mosaic floors, historic architecture and cafés.

Things To Do

Visit an Arcade.  The arcades of Paris are covered passageways defined by their ornate glass ceilings, mosaic and stone tiled floors, antique storefronts and warmly illuminated boutiques and cafes.

  • Galerie Vivienne.  One of Paris’s most iconic arcades, known for its elegant storefronts and mosaic tile floor. Enjoy a coffee at Le Valentin Vivienne while taking in the splendor of the arcade. 

  • Les Passages Couverts.  A series of hidden shopping arcades in the 2nd Arrondissement. They’re fun to discover and walk through. 

  • Passages des Panoramas.   Paris’ oldest arcade, dating back well over 200 years. It has a refined and aged character true to Parisian charm. 

Traditional bouquinistes selling vintage books in green stalls along the Seine River in Paris.

Shop for Books.  Buy a book from one of these classic locations!

  • Les Bouquinistes.  A series of outdoor booksellers with green cabinets and displays of French language books set up along the banks of the Seine. 

  • Shakespeare and Company.  One of the world’s most famous bookstores, often depicted in movies and shows. They’re extremely popular, don’t allow photos indoors and only sell English books. 

  • Galerie Vivienne.  The iconic gallery is home to multiple book stores selling antique French books. 

Walk in Julia Child’s Footsteps.   If you admire Julia Child as much as us, visit some of her old haunts: 

  • Les Deux Magots.  A historic brasserie where Julia Child and her husband, Paul Child, often ate. Come here for a leisurely brunch and range of French dishes. 

  • E Dehillerin.  A 200+ year old kitchen supply store where Julia Child used to shop for knives, copper dishes and various “batterie de cuisine.”

  • Rue Montorgueil.  A vibrant market street where Julia Child would shop for produce and meats. Today it’s lined with food markets, boulangeries, fromageries, patisseries, old world bars, restaurants and cafes.

Fresh seafood vendors inside Marché des Enfants Rouges, the oldest covered food market in Paris.

Shop at a Market.  Walk through the stalls of an actual French market like Marché des Enfants Rouges, Paris’ oldest food market with an array of stalls and vendors selling prepared meals, fresh fruits, vegetables, cheeses, meats and seafood. There are a number of tiny shops surrounding the market selling rustic and vintage items. 

Tree lined walkway beside the Seine River in Paris with cobblestone paths, bridges and boats along the waterfront.

See The Seine.  A lengthy river meandering through the heart of Paris. Dozens of bridges connect the right and left banks of the city while cobblestone walkways and iconic landmarks line both sides. It’s a relaxing place to sit on a bench, picnic under a tree or dangle your legs over the river’s edge and watch the boats float by. Book a Champagne Cruise at sunset with Bateaux Mouche to experience the city in a different light. Cruises are often touristy and crowded but it didn’t distract from the charm of Paris. 

Outdoor sidewalk cafés lining a quiet Paris street with classic French architecture and people dining outside.

Taste Everything!

To quote Julia Child, “people who love to eat are always the best people.” This couldn’t be truer than with the French. 

Sit at a Sidewalk Café.  Practically a French pastime, enjoy a meal at a sidewalk cafe overlooking the Parisian streets and plazas. 

  • La Crémaillère.  A restaurant in the Place du Tertre with traditional French dishes and wine. Come for the French onion soup, moules-frites and salmon with béarnaise sauce.

  • Breizh Café.  A cafe with an extensive menu of sweet crepes and savory galettes. Try the crepe suzette! 

  • Café Charlot.   A small corner bistro with a sidewalk dining room. It’s a lovely spot to sit for breakfast or brunch and enjoy a lazy morning. 

A Parisian Pastry Crawl.  The French are well known for their love of pastries. We visited multiple boulangeries and patisseries across the city, tasting apple tarte tatin, pain au chocolat, madeleines, eclairs, brioche and macarons. 

  • Les Petits Mitrons.  A classic French pastry shop located on Rue Lepic in Montmartre with an elegant selection of fruit tarts, savory quiche and cookies. 

  • Boulangerie Mimoune.  A bakery with rustic French breads and delicate French pastries.

  • Boulangerie Les Deux Frères.  A boulangerie on a corner of Montmartre with a large selection of breads, pastries and quiche.

  • Du Pain et des Idées.  A famed bakery, known for their pistachio chocolate escargot pastries, named for the pastry’s shell shaped swirl. 

  • Paul.  A coffee shop chain with locations across Paris. Come here for coffees, pastries, sandwiches and breads.

Classic Parisian bistro with an Art Deco interior, marble bar and warm lighting in central Paris.

Dine at the Bistros.  Paris is one of the culinary capitals of the world home to tiny bistros, famed restaurants and local haunts.  

  • Les Ombres.  The restaurant we got engaged on our first trip to Paris! A fine dining restaurant serving contemporary French cuisine. Its dining room is enclosed in a fragmented glass structure inspired by the shadows of the Eiffel Tower while its rooftop terrace offers some of the city’s best views of the iconic landmark. Make reservations and come at sunset! 

  • L’Escargot.  Serving their namesake since 1832, this old world restaurant is known for their Burgundy snails served in the shell.

  • Café des Deux Moulins.  A beloved French bistro in Montmartre with a warmly lit interior and lively terrace made famous by the movie Amelie. Come for omelettes and escargot at lunch. 

  • Brasserie Floderer.  A classic French restaurant known for its historic ambience, seafood dishes and extensive wine selection. 

  • Déviant. A tiny kitchen serving elegant small plates paired with French wines. Dine at their standing bar inside or at the sidewalk bistro. 

  • La Mascotte.  A historic restaurant in Montmartre serving elevated seafood dishes like butter and lemon sole, turbot encrusted in seaweed and some of the city’s tastiest oysters paired with champagne. 

Sip on French Spirits.  While known for its wine, France produces some of the finest spirits including absinthe, chartreuse, cognac and cointreau.

  • Marlusse et Lapin.  A small and funky cocktail bar with an apartment like feeling that spills out onto the street. Come for the flamed absinthe drip cocktail.

  • Le Syndicat.  A speakeasy style cocktail bar previously rated at one of the top 50 bars in the world. Come here for their signature and classic cocktails made using French spirits. 

French Cuisine 

Beef Bourguignon.  A beef stew cooked with carrots, potatoes, mushrooms, bacon, garlic and pearl onions in a red wine sauce.  

Coq au Vin.  A cousin to Beef Bourguignon but made with chicken instead. 

Cassoulet.  A savory white bean stew cooked with sausage, onion and garlic. 

Niçoise Salad.  A salad originating from the coastal city of Nice. It’s a hearty salad made with a combination of tomatoes, hard boiled eggs, olives, tuna, anchovies, green beans, potatoes and red onions over a bed of lettuce. 

Tartare.  A classic French dish of minced raw meat, typically steak or tuna, mixed with herbs and presented in a puck shaped disk.

Ratatouille.  A provincial style vegetable stew made using diced or sliced pieces of eggplant, zucchini and tomato then seasoned with herbs.

French Onion Soup.  A beef broth soup made with caramelized onions, topped with croutons and broiled cheese. 

Escargot.  Snails cooked in a copious amount of butter, garlic and parsley or tarragon. They’re typically served in the shell or in a porcelain baking dish with toasted pieces of baguette. They’re a delicacy on many menus in Paris.

Omelette.  A pan fried and folded envelope of eggs. French versions are custardy and lightly cooked until just formed together. It’s common to eat at lunchtime. 

Quiche.  A savory egg tart or pie baked with vegetables, herbs or meats. 

Gratin Dauphinois.  Thinly sliced potatoes baked in heavy cream. 

Pomme Frites.  Also known as French Fries. They’re a common side dish and typically served with mayonnaise. 

Croissant.  A crescent shaped pastry with layers of buttery and flaky crust. It comes in multiple versions including chocolate, raspberry and almond. 

Baguette.  A quintessentially French style of bread easily recognized by its long shape and 3 slice marks. It’s beloved for its crunchy crust and chewy crumb. 

Tarte Tatin.  A tart or pie with a rich layer of caramelized apples. 

Crepes Suzette.  A folded and flamed crepe cooked in an orange sauce and orange liqueur. 

Crème Brûlée.  A French vanilla custard with a flamed layer of hardened sugar on top. 

Wine.  France is world renowned for its wines including Bordeaux, Burgundy, Côte du Rhône, Beaujolais and Champagne. Buy a bottle at a local market or pair a glass with any meal while dining out. 

Historic Art Nouveau Paris Métro entrance sign surrounded by trees near a metro station in Paris.

Getting Around Paris

Métropolitain (The Metro).  Beneath the streets of Paris is one of the world’s oldest metro systems, recognizable by its Art Nouveau entrances. In French fashion, the Metro was closed due to transit strikes both times we visited Paris. 

On Foot.  Paris is a lovely city to explore on foot and get lost in. Walk down the cobblestone streets, admire the historic architecture, wander along the Seine and stroll through lively plazas and parks.

Ride Shares.  Uber is common across Paris and often the quickest way of getting across the city and to the airport. City rides typically cost between €15-€20 while airport rides cost around €50.

French Words & Phrases 

While many Parisians speak English, they adore when foreigners try to speak French. Some of the most common words and phrases we used are: 

  • Bonjour = Hello or Good morning

  • Au revoir = Goodbye

  • Bonsoir= Good evening

  • Merci = Thank you

  • Merci beaucoup = Thank you very much

  • S’il vous plaît = Please

  • De rien = You’re welcome

  • Excusez-moi = Excuse me

  • La carte, s’il vous plaît = The menu, please

  • L’addition s’il vous plaît = The check, please

  • Je voudrais… = I would like…

  • Je t'aime = I love you

Places to Stay 

Montmartre Loft.  An elegant apartment on the 6th floor of a Parisian style residential building with stunning views of Montmartre’s rooftops and the Basilica of Sacre-Coeur. Reserve on Airbnb.

Old Bakery Loft.  A lofted vacation rental in a converted bakery. The cozy space opens up to the streets of Paris. It’s central location is walking distance to sidewalk cafes, bistros, art museums and landmark sights. Reserve on Airbnb

French flags flying above the historic façade of a neoclassical building in Marseille, France.

Elsewhere in France

From Paris’s romantic boulevards and iconic landmarks to Marseille’s rugged coastline and Mediterranean culture, continue exploring France’s diverse regions.

Marseille Travel Guide: Calanques, Vieux-Port & Mediterranean CultureExplore Marseille's gritty streets and the historic Vieux-Port where Mediterranean culture, bustling markets and seaside charm meet rugged coastal landscapes.

Next Time in Paris… 

Paris is always a good idea and we’re certain to return. Having been to Paris twice, we have yet to visit some of the most iconic sights including: 

Notre Dame.   The Gothic cathedral known for its rose windows, buttresses and gargoyles. We visited after the fire that nearly destroyed the landmark but were unable to enter its vast interior. 

The Palace of Versailles.  King Louis XIV’s famous palace and grounds. 

St. Ouen Flea Market. Paris’ most famous flea market for over 150 years with 3000+ merchants selling vintage items, antiques, artwork, books, furniture, etc.

Parc des Buttes Chaumont.  Picnic in the hilly and lush park and sip on rosé at Rosa Bonheur. 

See More Art:

  • The Louvre.  The world’s most well known art museum, particularly for its collection of Da Vinci paintings like The Mona Lisa. The museum deserves a half to full day to explore but specific pieces can be seen in less time.

  • Musée d'Orsay.  An impressionist and art nouveau museum in a converted glass train station with works by Van Gogh, Monet, Renoir, Degas and Cézanne. 

  • Musée Picasso.  A museum dedicated to Picasso with the largest collection of the artist’s works in the world. 

Read More