Montgomery St. Peter 3/19/26 Montgomery St. Peter 3/19/26

East Java, Indonesia

East Java is the land of dramatic landscapes with fuming volcanos, picturesque waterfalls, verdant jungles and grassy savannas covering the Indonesian island.

East Java, Indonesia

Situated along the Pacific Ring of Fire, East Java is the land of dramatic landscapes. Fuming volcanos, picturesque waterfalls, verdant jungles and grassy savannas cover the region. East Java’s fertile landscape is a hub for agriculture. Farmers cultivate lush rice terraces while trucks carry loads of harvested sugarcane, cassava, bananas and coconuts. Cities and villages offer a glimpse into Indonesian culture. Chaotic scenes of moto bikes speed down two lane streets. The Islamic call to prayer echos from domed mosques. Warungs serve affordable local bites while cafes brew Javanese coffee.

Tumpak Sewu Waterfall

Tumpak Sewu is a massive waterfall formed by dozens of streams spilling over a crescent shaped canyon into the river below. The lush canyon is covered in moss, ferns, bamboo and palm trees. Semeru Mountain rises through the clouds in the background as mist blows in all directions. It’s Java’s largest waterfall and a true natural marvel.

The waterfall is viewable from an observation deck at the canyon rim and from the riverbed at its base. A trail leads to the base following a series of makeshift staircases and metal ladders. They cross over flowing streams, small waterfalls and through the river. From the base, the canyon and waterfall surrounded us like a panorama as cooling mist drenched us.

Goa Tetes Cave. A cave beyond a waterfall with dripping rock formations and a smaller waterfall within. It’s reachable by following a trail down the canyon from Tumpak Sewu Waterfall. The trail is scenic, with several small waterfalls pouring over the verdant canyon’s walls.

Wisata View Kapas Biru. A panoramic viewpoint from the top of a small waterfall, looking across a river canyon towards another waterfall. The opposite waterfall streams from a crevice in the crescent shaped cliff, surrounded by lush jungle on all sides.

Good to Know. Be prepared to get soaking wet! Come with a change of clothes for after the hike. Bring or rent water shoes for 20K Rp.

Getting Here. The waterfall is located 2 hours from Malang. We booked a driver and guide with Smartway Indonesia Tours on Viator to bring us here and back.

Ijen Volcano

Ijen Volcano is famed for its electric blue flames, turquoise lagoon and sulphur mines. Sunrise hikes starting in the middle of the night lead to its active crater and picturesque caldera.

Ijen Volcano Hike. The hike up the volcano’s slopes and into its crater begins at 2am when the park’s gates open. The wide trail is moderately steep but levels out just before the descent into the crater. The narrow trail into the crater meanders down rocky steps and loose gravel. The smell of sulphuric gases becomes intense without a gas mask. The trail can take 1-2 hours depending on speed and position amongst other hikers.

Ijen Blue Flames. At the base of the crater between plumes of sulphuric gas are the electric blue flames. A small viewing area offers close up access to them. The flames seem to flow and dance down the rocky hill, sometimes jumping along the ground. Their characteristic blue color is a result of the hot burning sulphuric gases released by the volcano.

Pro Tip. Avoid using a flash light around the blue flames. It’s better to experience their glow without excess light. Politely ask others to do the same.

Ijen Crater Lake. The crater rim offers picturesque views of turquoise colored lake and sunrise. The viewpoint is reachable after a 30 to 45 minute hike up from the blue flames. As daylight breaks, the bright colored lagoon at the bottom of the crater comes into view. Gases fume from the volcanic vents as clouds roll over the lush hillside. The sun light illuminates nearby volcanos and colors the sky in a combination of pastel tones. Alternatively, the crater lake is viewable from the sulphur mines near the blue flames. This is a good spot to stay if unable to reach the rim for sunrise in time.

Sulphur Mines. The volcanic vents surrounding the lagoon are hand mined for sulphur. Local miners live on the volcano under hazardous conditions to harvest the mineral, referred to as “the devil’s gold.” Vibrant yellow deposits are scattered across the ground and collected in baskets lining the trail. We visited on Satu Suro, the Javanese Islamic New Year. It’s one of the few days that miners take to rest. As a result, our guide introduced us to his father, Arifin, an experienced miner and local legend. He showed us the capsule sized space he sleeps in and a brief documentary about his work. Watch on Coconuts TV.

Hire A Guide. Though it’s possible to visit on your own, we visited with a guide for the additional safety and ease of coordination. We booked with East Java Paradise Travel on Viator.

Be First. 3,000 people are permitted to enter the volcano daily, often resulting in a bottle neck of hikers along the trail. Furthermore, the area around the blue flames is very small. The best way to enjoy seeing them safely and unobstructed is to wait at the gate early and hike ahead of everyone else.

Medical Check. Prior to beginning the hike, local officials require all visitors to undergo a brief medical exam, checking blood pressure, blood oxygen levels and temperature.

Gas Masks. A proper fitting gas mask is strongly recommended. Rent one or make sure it’s included with your tour. The volcanic fumes are toxic and highly concentrated around the blue flames.

Proper Gear. Wear layers for the cooler nighttime temperatures and shoes with good treads. Being a headlamp or flashlight to see. Hiking poles are helpful but not necessary.

Mount Bromo

Mount Bromo is one of East Java’s most active volcanos! Its ancient crater rim surrounds volcanic cinder cones and a billowing caldera. The island’s tallest volcano, Semeru Mountain, towers in the background erupting with frequent puffs of black ash.

Mount Bromo Sunrise. A popular time to visit Mount Bromo is for the sunrise. Tours from Malang starts around midnight. It’s followed by a 3 hour drive to the volcano village and a transfer to a 4x4 vintage Toyota Land Cruiser. The final hour leads across the sand sea and up the north crater rim to the lookout points. We sat below “King Kong Hill.” There are cafes selling coffees, noodles in cups and renting heavy coats. It wasn’t the clearest morning. The sunrise was blocked by clouds and the volcanos were covered in a blanket of fog. Their still visible silhouettes had a mystical view. Mount Bromo constantly billowed out clouds of white smoke while Semeru Mountain erupted with puffs of black ash.

The Sand Sea. The Sand Sea is the black sand lava field surrounding the cinder cones within the ancient crater’s walls. Hundreds of colorful Land Cruisers park here while visitors walk or ride pony’s across the landscape to Mt. Bromo’s smoldering crater. Passing Mount Batok, a shrub covered cinder cone, we reached the blackened base of Mount Bromo. Locals sell colorful bouquets of dried flowers, which any people leave as offerings to the volcano.

Mount Bromo Crater Rim. A 250 step staircase leads up Mount Bromo’s crater walls to the rim. The rim offers views into the fuming vent of the volcano. Hissing steam and gases roar from within the crater. Black scared rocks and bright yellow sulphur deposits cover its steep walls. Remnants of offerings, mostly flowers and cooked rice were visible along the steep inner slops.

Getting Here. We hired a guide with round trip transportation from Malang. It was the easiest way to see the volcanos. Book with Cheap Bromo on Viator.

Good to Know. Wear layers and warm clothes. The temperature is often cold in the early morning at the high elevation. Remove layers as the day warms up.

Baluran National Park

One of the lesser known natural sights in East Java is the Baluran National Park. It encompasses landscapes like volcanos, savanna, forest, mangroves and beaches, each home a variety of wild animals and endemic species.

Bekol Savanna. A vast grassland with bushes and broadleaf trees home to heards of wild animals like buffalo, deer and monkeys. It sits against the towering backdrop of the Baluran and Ijen Volcanos. With binoculars and camera in hand, we spotted wildlife. Large buffalo stood covered in mud as they grazed in the grasslands. Hundreds of deer gathered together. Fawns chased each other, stopping to breast feed from their mothers. Bucks spared while others feed, lifting their heads above the grass to reveal a crown of shrubs stuck in their antlers.

Evergreen Forest. A section of the park with vibrant green foliage supported by an underground river. A road leads through its dense canopy in route to the savanna.

Bama Beach. A natural beach with a coral sand shore, hardened black lava flows, a mangrove forest and tide pools. Troops of wild monkeys scavenger for shell fish during low tide.

Coastal Fringe. A lush forested zone between the savanna and coast. Its trees are home to hornbill toucans, colorful peacocks and monkeys. We watched a family of Javan Lutung (ebony monkeys), including a mother with her orange haired infant, jump from tree to tree.

Book a Safari. One of the best ways to visit is on Safari Tour. We booked half day safari with Epic Escapes Indonesia on Get Your Guide.

Indonesian Cuisine

Nasi Goreng. Vegetable fried rice, an Indonesian staple commonly served on menus around the country. It’s a popular breakfast dish.

Mi Goreng. The same as nasi goreng, except made with noodles instead of rice.

Gado Gado. Lightly steamed or boiling vegetables served with a spicy peanut sauce.

Batagor. Fried banana, tempe or tofu stuffed with glass noodles and veggies. It’s a very common street food dish in East Java and eaten for breakfast or a mid day snack.

Tempeh. Fermented and spouted soybeans formed into a protein patty or block. A common preparation is Tempeh Lada Hitam, tempeh cooked in a black pepper sauce.

Sayur Lodeh. A spiced coconut stew cooked with tempeh, eggplant, tomatoes and green beans.

Bintang. Indonesia’s national beer. It’s a light beer perfect for the perpetually hot afternoons and evenings.

Sambal. Indonesians love spicy food. The source of the heat is often sambal, a minced mixture of Thai chili peppers, shallots and garlic.

Where to Stay

We hopped around East Java every couple of days staying in Malang, Banyuwangi and Surabaya.

Kosasih 1919. A small bed and breakfast in central Banyuwangi with spacious rooms, lush gardens and a communal kitchen. The hosts and their traditional breakfasts were the highlights! Reserve on Booking.

Malang City Point Apartments. A simple and cozy two bedroom apartment located in the Malang City Point Mall. The mall was great for grocery shopping, local bites and cafes. Book on Airbnb.

Cordia Hotel Surabaya Airport. During our travel days into and out of Surabaya, we stayed the night at a airport hotel. It’s located in terminal 1 with retro rooms and views of the runway. The hotel has its own terrace coffee bar and includes breakfast. Reserve on Booking.

Getting Around

Grab or Gojek. The two competing taxi apps are Grab and Gojek. Both offer affordable rides getting around within and between cities. Inner city rides range from $1 to $10. Longer distances, such as Surabaya to Malang cost around $40 and take 1 hour 30 minutes.

KAI Trains. East Java has an efficient and affordable train system with routes leading to destinations across the island. We booked tickets traveling between Malang, Banyuwangi and Surabaya. Tickets cost less than $5 each for Economy Class and $22 for Executive Class. Transit time takes between 6-7 hours with multiple trains leaving daily. Tickets can be reserved online with Tiket Com as far as two months in advance.

Location Specifics

When to Visit. Visit during the peak of the dry season, in mid June. The weather was sunny and bright most days with the occasional afternoon storm.

Shoes Off Indoors. Like many places in Asia, it’s proper to remove shoes before entering home or some shops.

Islamic Customs. Indonesia is an Islamic country. The call to prayer is present in most places. Modesty and respect in all forms are the most important customs to follow.

LGBTQ+ Safety. Indonesian laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice.

Elsewhere in Indonesia

We’ve visited to Indonesia twice during our travels, exploring different islands across the archipelago. Experience the picturesque landscapes and wildlife of The Komodo Islands. Visit ancient temples and wander through the lush rice terraces of Ubud, Bail. Take in the tropical atmosphere while lounges on the beaches of Coastal Bali.

For Next Time…

There is so much to see in East Java and Indonesia! We are dreaming of returning for a third time to this scenic country and have a list of sights left to experience.

Mt. Bromo. We plan to spend a few days around Mt. Bromo and its active volcanos. Ideally, we would visit on a crystal clear day to see the landscape in full detail unobscured by fog.

Multi-Day Volcano Hike. With dozens of volcanos to choose from. We plan to hike and camp overnight on one of Java’s volcanos. Mt. Semeru, the largest volcano on the island has several routes and campsites to choose from.

West Bali National Park. From Banyuwangi, we would love to re-visit Bali and explore the island’s western peninsula and national park home to endemic birds, coral reefs and wild animals.

Prambanan Temple. A 9th century Hindu temple in Central Java. It’s the second largest after Angkor Wat. Its intcate structures and towers are carved from black lava rocks.

Montgomery St. Peter 3/18/26 Montgomery St. Peter 3/18/26

The Komodo Islands

Komodo is an exotic Indonesian destination mystified by its dragons, picturesque landscapes, underwater marine life and pink sand beaches.

The Komodo Islands

Komodo is an exotic Indonesian destination mystified by its dragons, picturesque landscapes, underwater marine life and pink sand beaches. The port city of Labuan Bajo is the hub for experiences in the region including live aboard charters to the islands of Komodo National Park.

Komodo Live Aboard

The best way to experience the Komodo Islands is on a Live Aboard. Boat operators across Labuan Bajo offer multi-night tours visiting the Komodo, its islands, beaches and reefs. We booked a 3 day 2 night tour on The Dinara with Amaze Vacations. It included all activities, a private cabin and all meals.

The Dinara. Our vessel for the three days touring the Komodo Islands. The beautiful wooden ship has comfortable private cabins and communal decks. We stayed in the Krakatau Room, one of the few rooms with windows on two sides and a private balcony! It was both adventurous and glamorous.

Pro Tip. Book your Live Aboard when you arrive! This gives you the best chance to coordinate around the weather. As planners, we booked months ahead of time but had hazy and rainy weather the dates of our tour.

Komodo National Park

Komodo National Park is home to the Komodo Dragons! The park consists of several protected islands with dramatic landscapes, picturesque beaches and thriving marine life.

Komodo Island. The largest island in Komodo National Park with the largest population of Komodo Dragons. We visited Komodo Village and were lead by local guides through the hillside. We didn’t have to walk too far before spotting three Komodo Dragons. One was shading under a tree, a giant one was resting along a dried up river and a third was sleeping in a nest made between tree roots.

Our Recommendation. Though we got to see Komodo Dragons, we don’t recommend booking a tour that visits the Komodo Village. It’s very touristy and the place is unfortunately littered with plastic and trash. Instead, go to the Komodo National Park Office and hike from there.

Padar Island Sunrise. A rugged island with hiking trails, crescent shaped coves and pink sand beaches. After spending a night on the ship, we woke up early to hike to the summit for sunrise. The trail leads along the island’s crest to different panoramic viewpoints. We sat near the top and watched the sunrise illuminate the island as it rose.

Padar Island Pink Beach. A sandy beach made up of finely eroded grains of red and white corals. The mixture gives the beach a pinkish hue. The turquoise colored water offers stunning contrast to pink sand. The color is most vibrant right after a wave washes on shore. There are several pink sand beaches around the Komodo Islands.

Pulau Karangan. A vibrant and shallow water coral reef teeming with marine life. It feels like being inside of an aquarium as thousands of colorful and tropical fish swim in all directions. Abstract looking corals cover the ocean floor as currents flow along a steep drop off. It was some of the best snorkeling we’ve ever done, however signs of stress and bleaching were evident in several parts of the reef.

Komodo Manta Ray Point. A snorkeling point where manta rays are frequently said to visit. We didn’t spot any but stuck around to snorkel and free dive in the deep blue waters. Down below, layers of large coral formations grow on top on each other as reef fish live within.

Manjarite Reef. A coral reef off shore from the Manjarite Beach with a sprawling coral garden and layers of large coral formations. We swam with all types of tropical fish and sea turtles!

Kelor Island. A small island with a hiking trail leading to its summit with views of the surrounding islands, anchored boats and blue waters below. We snorkeled near the beach, spotting black tipped reef sharks and puffer fish.

Taka Makasar. A sandbar island surrounded by swimmable turquoise waters. We snorkeled and spotted small black tipped reef sharks. Further offshore we saw a pod of dolphins swimming between the anchored wooden ships.

Bats of Pulau Kalong. Shortly after sunset, thousands of giant bats emerge from the forest on Kalong Island and take flight over the bay. Their dark silhouettes flutter overhead, contrasting the warm colors of the early evening sky. It was a serene and beautiful sight to watch from the top of our live aboard boat.

Labuan Bajo

Labuan Bajo is the main city on the island of Flores and entry point to Komodo National Park. The town surrounded by lush hills with hiking trails, beaches and lookout points. Its harbor is dotted with fishing boats and traditional wooden ships for live aboard tours. It’s worth spending a couple of days here either before or after booking a live aboard.

Soekarno Hatta Street. A narrow palm lined street passing through the center of Labuan Bajo with restaurants, cafes, dive shops, tour offices and massage spas.

Waterfront Promenade. The city’s waterfront promenade overlooks the harbor and its many anchored ships. It’s a beautiful walk for the sunset and to enjoy local festivities after dark.

Pavillon Off Shore. A waterfront boardwalk ending at an overwater pavilion with views of the harbor and dozens of anchored ships. It’s a calm spot for enjoying the tranquil views and scenery.

Wills Hills. A lookout point at the tip of Labuan Bajo with views of the islands and ocean. We spotted wild monkeys in the trees and a school of shark circling in the water below. Many people come here for the sunset.

Sylvia Beach. A crescent shaped tan sand beach overlooking the bay. The calm blue waters are perfect for swimming & sunbathing. The beach is located at the Sylvia Resort Komodo. The beach is free to enter for non-guests that purchase anything from the restaurant or bar.

Sylvia Hill. A hill above Sylvia Beach with views of the bay, island and sunset. It’s a popular local spot reachable after a 10 minutes hike from a roadside parking lot.

Puncak Waringin. An observation deck at one of the tallest points in town. It has sweeping views of the harbor, islands and golden sunset. Tickets costs 50K Rupiah. For a free view with similar perspectives, visit the Photo Spot Labuan Bajo. It’s only a minute walk down the street.

Cunca Walung Waterfall. A jungelous river canyon with a waterfall at its end. The canyon is reachable after walking 15 minutes down a forested nature trail and across a planked suspension bridge. At the canyon, we jumped from a rock cliff into the river and swam upstream to the base of the waterfall. Mist sprayed all around us and between the smoothed and curved canyon walls. Following the current back downstream we swam in the refreshing river and explored the eroded rock pools.

Good to Know. The entry fee costs 100K Rupiah per person and includes a guide.

Rangko Cave. A coastal cave with a flooded and swimmable chamber. During the mid-afternoon, from roughly 2-3:30pm, sunlight streams inside, illuminating its interior and aquamarine colored water. We swam around, viewing the stalactites and watching the birds fly from their nests. There is a small beach before the trail leading to the cave with a snack vendor and restrooms. The cave is only reachable by boat.

Getting Here. We hired our airport taxi driver for the day to bring us to the Cunca Walung Waterfall, Rangko Cave and Sylvia Hill Sunset Point. He charged 1.5 million Rupiah (about $90 USD at the time) for full transportation including the boat.

Labuan Bajo Fish Market. An nightly seafood market with dozens of street side kitchens barbecuing the day’s catch. Colorful arrangements of fresh fish like grouper, snapper, mahi mahi and parrot fish are displayed on icy tables. Live mantis shrimp, lobsters, crabs, oysters and clams sit in tubs of water and bottles. Smoke from the bbq grills wafts through the air as locals and travelers feast under awnings on the promenade. Shop around for the best looking seafood and prices to match. We ordered a grilled grouper, mantis shrimp and coconut from Kodak Para Ikatte.

Places to Eat & Drink

Naga Bar. An overwater bar at the end of a snaking boardwalk. The menu features tiki style drinks and signature cocktails inspired by the folklore and goddesses of Flores. It’s located at the AYANA Resort and open to non-guests.

Waroeng Labuan Bajo. A second floor restaurant overlooking the harbor of Labuan Bajo. They serve traditional Indonesian dishes including vegetarian and halal options. We came here for our first lunch, ordering with the national beer, Bintang.

Happy Banana. A very popular cafe and restaurant with a wide ranging menu including coffees, smoothie bowls, vegetarian dishes, sushi and poke.

Komodough. A tiny cafe with a very clever name. They sell strong coffees and a variety of pastries. Try the pandan croissant and pandan coconut roll for local flavors.

Copper Bonnet. A restaurant with a cocktail menu themed after Magellan’s voyage around the world. The menu features about two dozen signature cocktails, each with local and regional ingredients tied to a specific point in the voyage. Try the Burn The Ship and Coconut Palm.