The Komodo Islands
The Komodo Islands
Komodo is an exotic Indonesian destination mystified by its dragons, picturesque landscapes, underwater marine life and pink sand beaches. The port city of Labuan Bajo is the hub for experiences in the region including live aboard charters to the islands of Komodo National Park.
Komodo Live Aboard
The best way to experience the Komodo Islands is on a Live Aboard. Boat operators across Labuan Bajo offer multi-night tours visiting the Komodo, its islands, beaches and reefs. We booked a 3 day 2 night tour on The Dinara with Amaze Vacations. It included all activities, a private cabin and all meals.
The Dinara. Our vessel for the three days touring the Komodo Islands. The beautiful wooden ship has comfortable private cabins and communal decks. We stayed in the Krakatau Room, one of the few rooms with windows on two sides and a private balcony! It was both adventurous and glamorous.
Pro Tip. Book your Live Aboard when you arrive! This gives you the best chance to coordinate around the weather. As planners, we booked months ahead of time but had hazy and rainy weather the dates of our tour.
Komodo National Park
Komodo National Park is home to the Komodo Dragons! The park consists of several protected islands with dramatic landscapes, picturesque beaches and thriving marine life.
Komodo Island. The largest island in Komodo National Park with the largest population of Komodo Dragons. We visited Komodo Village and were lead by local guides through the hillside. We didn’t have to walk too far before spotting three Komodo Dragons. One was shading under a tree, a giant one was resting along a dried up river and a third was sleeping in a nest made between tree roots.
Our Recommendation. Though we got to see Komodo Dragons, we don’t recommend booking a tour that visits the Komodo Village. It’s very touristy and the place is unfortunately littered with plastic and trash. Instead, go to the Komodo National Park Office and hike from there.
Padar Island Sunrise. A rugged island with hiking trails, crescent shaped coves and pink sand beaches. After spending a night on the ship, we woke up early to hike to the summit for sunrise. The trail leads along the island’s crest to different panoramic viewpoints. We sat near the top and watched the sunrise illuminate the island as it rose.
Padar Island Pink Beach. A sandy beach made up of finely eroded grains of red and white corals. The mixture gives the beach a pinkish hue. The turquoise colored water offers stunning contrast to pink sand. The color is most vibrant right after a wave washes on shore. There are several pink sand beaches around the Komodo Islands.
Pulau Karangan. A vibrant and shallow water coral reef teeming with marine life. It feels like being inside of an aquarium as thousands of colorful and tropical fish swim in all directions. Abstract looking corals cover the ocean floor as currents flow along a steep drop off. It was some of the best snorkeling we’ve ever done, however signs of stress and bleaching were evident in several parts of the reef.
Komodo Manta Ray Point. A snorkeling point where manta rays are frequently said to visit. We didn’t spot any but stuck around to snorkel and free dive in the deep blue waters. Down below, layers of large coral formations grow on top on each other as reef fish live within.
Manjarite Reef. A coral reef off shore from the Manjarite Beach with a sprawling coral garden and layers of large coral formations. We swam with all types of tropical fish and sea turtles!
Kelor Island. A small island with a hiking trail leading to its summit with views of the surrounding islands, anchored boats and blue waters below. We snorkeled near the beach, spotting black tipped reef sharks and puffer fish.
Taka Makasar. A sandbar island surrounded by swimmable turquoise waters. We snorkeled and spotted small black tipped reef sharks. Further offshore we saw a pod of dolphins swimming between the anchored wooden ships.
Bats of Pulau Kalong. Shortly after sunset, thousands of giant bats emerge from the forest on Kalong Island and take flight over the bay. Their dark silhouettes flutter overhead, contrasting the warm colors of the early evening sky. It was a serene and beautiful sight to watch from the top of our live aboard boat.
Labuan Bajo
Labuan Bajo is the main city on the island of Flores and entry point to Komodo National Park. The town surrounded by lush hills with hiking trails, beaches and lookout points. Its harbor is dotted with fishing boats and traditional wooden ships for live aboard tours. It’s worth spending a couple of days here either before or after booking a live aboard.
Soekarno Hatta Street. A narrow palm lined street passing through the center of Labuan Bajo with restaurants, cafes, dive shops, tour offices and massage spas.
Waterfront Promenade. The city’s waterfront promenade overlooks the harbor and its many anchored ships. It’s a beautiful walk for the sunset and to enjoy local festivities after dark.
Pavillon Off Shore. A waterfront boardwalk ending at an overwater pavilion with views of the harbor and dozens of anchored ships. It’s a calm spot for enjoying the tranquil views and scenery.
Wills Hills. A lookout point at the tip of Labuan Bajo with views of the islands and ocean. We spotted wild monkeys in the trees and a school of shark circling in the water below. Many people come here for the sunset.
Sylvia Beach. A crescent shaped tan sand beach overlooking the bay. The calm blue waters are perfect for swimming & sunbathing. The beach is located at the Sylvia Resort Komodo. The beach is free to enter for non-guests that purchase anything from the restaurant or bar.
Sylvia Hill. A hill above Sylvia Beach with views of the bay, island and sunset. It’s a popular local spot reachable after a 10 minutes hike from a roadside parking lot.
Puncak Waringin. An observation deck at one of the tallest points in town. It has sweeping views of the harbor, islands and golden sunset. Tickets costs 50K Rupiah. For a free view with similar perspectives, visit the Photo Spot Labuan Bajo. It’s only a minute walk down the street.
Cunca Walung Waterfall. A jungelous river canyon with a waterfall at its end. The canyon is reachable after walking 15 minutes down a forested nature trail and across a planked suspension bridge. At the canyon, we jumped from a rock cliff into the river and swam upstream to the base of the waterfall. Mist sprayed all around us and between the smoothed and curved canyon walls. Following the current back downstream we swam in the refreshing river and explored the eroded rock pools.
Good to Know. The entry fee costs 100K Rupiah per person and includes a guide.
Rangko Cave. A coastal cave with a flooded and swimmable chamber. During the mid-afternoon, from roughly 2-3:30pm, sunlight streams inside, illuminating its interior and aquamarine colored water. We swam around, viewing the stalactites and watching the birds fly from their nests. There is a small beach before the trail leading to the cave with a snack vendor and restrooms. The cave is only reachable by boat.
Getting Here. We hired our airport taxi driver for the day to bring us to the Cunca Walung Waterfall, Rangko Cave and Sylvia Hill Sunset Point. He charged 1.5 million Rupiah (about $90 USD at the time) for full transportation including the boat.
Labuan Bajo Fish Market. An nightly seafood market with dozens of street side kitchens barbecuing the day’s catch. Colorful arrangements of fresh fish like grouper, snapper, mahi mahi and parrot fish are displayed on icy tables. Live mantis shrimp, lobsters, crabs, oysters and clams sit in tubs of water and bottles. Smoke from the bbq grills wafts through the air as locals and travelers feast under awnings on the promenade. Shop around for the best looking seafood and prices to match. We ordered a grilled grouper, mantis shrimp and coconut from Kodak Para Ikatte.
Places to Eat & Drink
Naga Bar. An overwater bar at the end of a snaking boardwalk. The menu features tiki style drinks and signature cocktails inspired by the folklore and goddesses of Flores. It’s located at the AYANA Resort and open to non-guests.
Waroeng Labuan Bajo. A second floor restaurant overlooking the harbor of Labuan Bajo. They serve traditional Indonesian dishes including vegetarian and halal options. We came here for our first lunch, ordering with the national beer, Bintang.
Happy Banana. A very popular cafe and restaurant with a wide ranging menu including coffees, smoothie bowls, vegetarian dishes, sushi and poke.
Komodough. A tiny cafe with a very clever name. They sell strong coffees and a variety of pastries. Try the pandan croissant and pandan coconut roll for local flavors.
Copper Bonnet. A restaurant with a cocktail menu themed after Magellan’s voyage around the world. The menu features about two dozen signature cocktails, each with local and regional ingredients tied to a specific point in the voyage. Try the Burn The Ship and Coconut Palm.
Indonesian Cuisine
Nasi Goreng. Vegetable fried rice, an Indonesian staple commonly served across menus around the country.
Gado Gado. Lightly steamed or boiling vegetables served with a spicy peanut sauce.
Tempeh. Fermented and spouted soybeans formed into a protein patty or block. A common preparation is Tempeh Lada Hitam, tempeh cooked in a black pepper sauce.
Sayur Lodeh. A spiced coconut stew cooked with tempeh, eggplant, tomatoes and green beans.
Bintang. Indonesia’s national beer. It’s a light beer perfect for the perpetually hot afternoons and evenings.
Good to Know
When to Visit. Visit during the peak of the dry season, in mid June. The weather was sunny and bright most days with the occasional afternoon storm.
Shoes Off Indoors. Like many places in Asia, it’s proper to remove shoes before entering home or some shops.
Plastic Pollution. Unfortunately plastic pollutes many of the harbors, beaches and lookout points around Komodo.
Islamic Customs. Indonesia is an Islamic country. The call to prayer is present in most places. Modesty and respect in all forms are the most important customs to follow.
LGBTQ+ Safety. Indonesian laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice.
Getting Around
On Foot. The town of Labuan Bajo small and easily walkable.
By Taxi. Taxis and motos are plentiful around town. Most locals will offer a ride anywhere around town, to and from the airport or to the resorts outside of town for 100K Rupiah.
Elsewhere in Indonesia
We’ve visited to Indonesia twice during our travels, exploring different islands across the archipelago. Chase waterfalls and hike into the craters of active volcanos in East Java. Visit ancient temples and wander through the lush rice terraces ofUbud, Bail. Take in the tropical atmosphere while lounges on the beaches of Coastal Bali.
For Next Time…
Seeing the pink sand beaches, stunning coral reefs and Komodo dragons themselves left us in a sense of awe and wanting to see more. Next time we return, we have a few ideas of what we would see and do.
Rinca. A lesser visited island regarded by those who have as being one of the best kept secrets of the Komodo Islands. It has Komodo Dragons, scenic landscapes, coral reefs and sunset views.
Spiderweb Rice Terraces. An indigenous method of growing rice on Flores with tiered rice terraces shaped like a spider web. The best time of year to visit is during the rainy season when they’re in full sprout.
Scuba Diving. We saw over a dozen dive shops with scuba tours in Labuan Bajo. Several of which offer introductory dives in the Komodo Islands for people without licenses.
