Helsinki, Finland

24 Hours in Helsinki 

Helsinki, the capital city of Finland is known for its architecture, design and Scandinavian cuisine and Baltic saunas. We explored the city for one day while in transit from Finland to Estonia. 

See the Sights

Helsinki Cathedral.  A white neo-classical cathedral with 5 green copper domes located in Senate Square. During wintertime, the steps are covered in snow and become a sledding hill for children. 

Uspenski Cathedral.  A red brick orthodox cathedral with copper steeples and golden onion domes. It’s lavish interior is decorated in finely painted patterned and gold leafed imagery of Christian symbols.

Helsinki Harbor.  The city’s historic harbor is docked with wooden ships and ice breakers. Its home to seaside saunas, food markets and government buildings including the presidential palace and city hall. 

Market Square.  A market with vendors selling Finnish foods, Sami handicrafts and souvenirs on the Helsinki Harbor across from City Hall. We tried the Lohikeitto (salmon soup) and Glögi (mulled wine). 

Esplanadi Park.  A large city park leading from Market Square into the center of downtown Helsinki. Its lined with walkways, trees, benches and bronze statues.

Old Market Hall.  Helsinki’s oldest food market focused on Finnish cuisine with vendors selling and serving traditional dishes, pastries, seafood, meats and beer. Butchers sell sausage, smoked, canned and fresh meats like reindeer, elk, bear & sausage. Seafood vendors serve salmon soup, smoked fish, pickled herring, cold water prawns & caviar. Cafes offer lingonberry pastries, Runeberg tortes and Korvapuustit. We came here for lunch and enjoyed a Finnish feast. We tasted a blini with beluga caviar, deep fried sprats, pickled herring in mustard sauce on rye toast, skagen and a Runeberg torte.

Ateneum.  Finland’s largest art museum with a collection of Finnish and European artwork. We visited during an Impressionist exhibit featuring works by Finnish impressionists Ellen Thesleff, Tyko Sallinen, Magnus Enckell and other European artists like Monet, Pissarro and Finch.

Finnish Saunas

Saunas are a popular aspect of Finnish culture dating back hundreds of years. They’re built into homes, hotels and public pools.

Löyly Sauna.  A geometric wooden sauna overlooking the Gulf of Finland with 4 stream rooms including 1 traditional wood burning one and 3 electric ones. Outside is a large deck and cold plunge area in frozen harbor. Inside is a fireplace lounge, restaurant and bar. We tried all 4 saunas, they were hot, steamy and scented of wood. The wood burning one was our favorite with a pleasant smell of smoke. In between steamings, we relaxed by the fireplace with a beer and plunged into the icy harbor during freezing temperatures. Book a reservation in advance and bring flip flops and a swim suit. Lockers and towels are included. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Restaurant Nolla.  A contemporary Finnish restaurant with dishes made from seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. We tried the grilled burbot (a subarctic freshwater fish), fried mushrooms, braised cabbage & celeriac confit with caramelized pearl onions

Hotel Kamp Bar.  A luxury hotel lobby bar in a warmly lit and historic setting dating back to 1887. Come here for classic cocktails.

Cafe Eliel.  A well designed Finnish cafe and bar in the Central Station. We came here for breakfast on our way to the airport. Try the salmon and dill lihapiirakka. 

Where to Stay 

For our one night in Helsinki, we stayed at Bob W, a well designed and comfortable hostel in the city center with private rooms, a communal kitchen, public gym and luggage storage room. 

Location Specifics 

Language.  Finnish, Swedish and English are the most commonly spoken languages. 

Sami Culture.  Show respect to the Sami people, culture and traditions. 

Costs.  Finland, like much of Scandinavia is an expensive destination

Cash vs. Card.  Cash is rarely used across the country. Use credit or card debit card for most transactions. 

Tipping. Tipping is not expected or required. Tip 10% for exceptional service.

Temperature.  Helsinki gets very cold during the winter. The temperature dropped to -10C (14F) before windchill. Dress in warm layers and cover all exposed skin while outdoors for long periods of time.

For Next Time…

24 hours only gave us a taste of Helsinki. We plan to return to this Scandinavian city for longer on our next trip! When we do, we have a few places we plan to experience. 

Kallio and Harj.  Two indie neighborhoods located in the northeast of Helsinki. They’re home to a mix of vintage shops, numerous Finish cafes and a large food hall. 

Suomenlinna Sea Fortress.  An 18th Century maritime fortress linked across 6 islands in the harbor of Helsinki. The islands are home to parks, museums, restored ships and small number of cafes, restaurants and bars. 

Seurasaari Open-Air Museum.  An outdoor museum comprised of historic and restored Finnish buildings relocated from around the country. 

Nuuksio National Park.  A vast park just outside of Helsinki with access to primary forests and waterways. It’s a popular place to hike, canoe and camp, especially during the warmer months. 

Poovoo.  A picturesque and historic village with an old town comprised of painted wooden houses, cobblestone streets and a medieval cathedral. It’s located about an hour east of Helsinki. 

Lapland, Finland

The Arctic Circle 

Lapland is the northernmost region of Finland located within the Arctic Circle and Boreal Forest. It’s defined by its frozen landscapes, snow covered forests and the northern lights. It’s a hub for winter sports, steamy saunas, Lappish cuisine and Sami culture.We visited in mid January, towards the end of Polar Night, a time when daylight is limited to a few hours and the sun never rises above the horizon. 

Inari, Lapland 

Inari is a small village on the remote shores of Lake Inari in Lapland. It’s a hub for winter activities like dog sledding, snowmobiling and cross country skiing. Several hotels, restaurants and tour operators are based in the town. Inari is a culturally important place to the indigenous Sami people, home to their parliament, museums and sacred sites. 

Holiday Village Inari.  A hotel on Lake Inari with red painted cabins, pine paneled interiors and a sauna. The cozy cabins overlooks Lake Inari and the night sky. It’s the perfect place to spot the Aurora on a clear winter evening. 

See the Sights

Siida.  A museum dedicated to the Sami people and nature of Lapland. Exhibits document the Arctic seasons, animals and landscapes through the guise of the ice ages and climate change as well as include artifacts and historical context of the Sami People. There is an open air museum within the forest behind the museum with wooden homes, saunas, and storage buildings. 

Sajos.  A contemporary wooden building home to the Sami Parliament and Council. It acts as a cultural center with Sami artifacts, library, auditorium, materials shop and cafe.

Lake Inari.  A large freshwater lake with thousands of tiny islands. It’s referred to as the Sami Sea for its importance to the Sami People. It acts as a fishing resource for trout, salmon, Arctic char, white fish and perch. Many winter activities take place on the ice including ice fishing, snowmobiling and Aurora spotting. 

Boreal Forest.  A vast pine and birch forest covering most of the Arctic. In Finland, it’s home to wildlife like reindeer, arctic rabbits and snow foxes. 

Juutua River.  The river flowing from Lake Inari through Inari. There’s a short trail along its southern bank behind Sajos. Watch for arctic hares running through the snow.

Visit Inari Tours

We booked multiple winter activities with Visit Inari Tours, including snowmobiling, husky mushing and cross country skiing. They also arrange ice fishing, reindeer feeding, snow shoeing and Aurora safaris. All winter tours include gear like boots, balaclavas, mittens, helmets and thermal overalls.

Sami Snowmobile Safari 

Suited up in a polar onesie, we mounted our snowmobile and sped off onto the frozen Lake Inari. Our guide led us between islands where we spotted groups of reindeer crossing the icy lake. We rode through wilderness trails and past pine trees drooping under the weight of fresh snow. Along the 34km route, we made stops to visit the Wilderness Church and sacred Sami islands including Ukko and Vanha Hautuumaasaari. After a few hours, we stopped at a small island with a Sami style conical hut. Within it, we ate a warm lunch of vegetable soup, rye bread and hot cider around a cozy fire. 

Wilderness Church.  A remote wooden church in the forest along the shore of Lake Inari. It’s the oldest building in Northern Finland, dating back to 1760.

Ukko Island.  An island on Lake Inari with a tall rocky point sacred to the Sami People. Offerings are made here  to Ukko, the “God of Thunder”

Vanha Hautuumaasaari.  A sacred island on Lake Inari and burial ground for the Sami People.

Husky Mushing 

Ever since our first trip to the Arctic, we’ve dreamt of going husky mushing. Lapland was the perfect place to make that dream come true. After suiting up in a polar onesie and listening to a brief lesson, we were paired with a sled of Siberian and Alaskan huskies. The pack of dogs were excited to run; howling, barking and jumping around before bolting off in unison with us behind them. We mushed our way through the Lappish countryside, past snow covered trees and fields of white along the twisting 10km trail. As we sled across the frozen landscape, ice formed on our eyelashes and hair in the subzero temperature. Half way through, we traded places, each getting a chance to drive. At the end, we got to cuddle and pet the huskies, before warming up by the fire.

Cross Country Skiing 

Cross country skiing is a Finnish pass time and national sport. We booked a 2 hour lesson and learned the basics on a groomed track in an arena. Following the tracks, we skied uphill into the wooded trails and continued to improve our form. After a couple of kilometers, we returned downhill, intermittently picking up speed and gliding along the tracks with ease.

The Northern Lights 

On night three, still overcoming jet lag, we woke up at 3am and spotted the Aurora putting on a show above our cabin. We layered up, went outside and walked towards Lake Inari, distancing ourselves from the hotel lights. It took half an hour for our eyes to adjust to the darkness.We stared upwards as ribbons of green stretched across the starry night sky, swirling and waving in brilliant formations. The Aurora would vary in strength, fading away then reappearing as fast moving bands that danced and shimmered overhead. 

Pro Tips.  It’s easier to observe the Aurora in total darkness, away from bright lights and cities. The Aurora is always fainter and less vibrant in person than in photos. 

Places to Eat

Restaurant Aanaar.  A fine dining restaurant at the Hotel Juutua. The contemporary menu is made with locally sourced ingredients true to Sami and Finnish cuisine. The dining room has a warmly lit interior overlooking the Juutuanjoki River. Order a mix of dishes like the roasted parsley roots, smoked beets, pickled white fish, fried cod tongue, charred cod cheek and cloudberry honey cake. The table next to us ordered smoked reindeer heart.

Restaurant Aurora.  A contemporary restaurant at the Visit Inari Hotel with Lappish dishes. The dining room overlooks Lake Inari and is decorated in Sami art. For dinner, try the Lake Inari white fish with dill potato purée, bourbon glazed Arctic char, lingonberry and blueberry parfait. For lunch, the Arctic pizza with cured salmon, shrimp and dill toppings.

Restaurant Ukko.  A restaurant at the Inari Wilderness Hotel with views of Lake Inari. The dining room is decorated with timber beams, wooden furniture and reindeer antler chandeliers. For dinner, try the celeriac soup with pickled apples, cloudberry cocktail, cured Arctic char and gratinated lake perch.

Saariselkä, Lapland 

Saariselkä is a winter resort village with blanketed in snow. It’s slopes and back country trails traversed by skiers, snowboarders and tobogganers. The town is located 1 hour southeast of Inari, making it the perfect place to enjoy nearby winter activities.

Saariselkä Ski & Sport Resort.  The most northern winter resort in Europe with two fells (Finnish mountains) and slopes for skiing, snowboarding & tobogganing. It’s known for its 1,200 meter Toboggan Run, the longest in Finland.

Toboggan Run.  We visited Saariselkä specifically for the toboggan run. After taking a lift to the top of the fell, we reached the run. We sat in our sleds and pushed off, quickly picking up speed as we sled straight downhill. Halfway down, the run flattened out before becoming steeper with twists and turns. It was exhilarating as we picked up speed, controlling direction of the sled by hand and slowing down by foot. Once reaching the bottom, we ran back to the lift with sled in hand ready to ride again.

Frozen Ring Ice Karting.  Exactly as it sounds, go-karting on an outdoor snow and ice track. Late in the day and with the track to ourselves, we raced each other, drifting around corners and spinning into snowbanks. In just over 15 minutes, we were able to complete 8 laps before sliding across the finish line. It cost €65 each. Though expensive, it was a one of a kind experience and well worth it. Book here!

Restaurant Pirkon Pirtti.  Come for the arctic bouillabaisse made from shrimp, arctic char, cod, mussels, sour cream and dill. We also tried the Arctic seafood platter with roasted Arctic char, pan fried Inari white fish and smoked salmon. For desert, the cloud berry parfait with “Aurora sauce.” It has a wooden interior with a stone fireplace. 

Pub Panimo.  A pub with a selection of Finnish and foreign beers in cozy beer hall with wooden tables, a stone fireplace and musician stage.

Lappish Cuisine 

Cuisine in Lapland is heavily based off of local, wild and foraged ingredients. Food is one of the best ways to experience Lapland.

Root Vegetables.  Celeriac, parsley root, beets, potatoes and carrots are commonly used in Lappish cuisine, often severed roasted, pickled, puréed or in soups

Berries.  Popular throughout Lapland. Berries are often foraged. Try them fresh or jammed. 

• Cloudberries.  Orange berries of clustered round nodules that resemble clouds. Their taste is entirely unique but has notes of peach and nectarine.

• Lingonberries.  Little red berries that have a sweet & tart taste., similar to a cross between cranberry and pomegranate.

• Blueberries.  Smaller and sweeter than US blueberries. 

Wild Mushrooms.  Foraged and prepared in various dishes, sauces or pickled. Trumpet Chanterelle is one of the most common.

Freshwater Fish.  Whitefish, salmon, arctic char and perch are commonly caught in Lake Inari. They’re often served grilled, smoked or pickled and served with dill. 

Reindeer.  Though we didn’t try it, reindeer is regularly served in various forms at restaurants & sold at markets across the country.

Skagen.  Cold water prawn salad. It consists of prawn mixed with mayo, sour cream or mustard and garnished with dill and fish roe often served on rye bread. 

Lihapiirakka.  A traditional Finnish pie typically made with savory ingredients like meat, rice, onion and herbs wrapped in puffy pie dough. 

Rye Bread.  Flat round discs of rye bread. They’re common at breakfast with butter and cheese or as a base for open faced sandwiches. 

Korvapuustit.  A pasty made from sweet dough rolled with cinnamon and cardamom.

Karelian Pie.  A ovular open faced rye crust pie with crimped edges and filled with porridge. Try it with jam or yogurt. 

Runeberg Torte.  A small cylindrical almond and rum cake with a raspberry jam and icing ring topping. It’s named after a Finnish writer and often served in January.

Beers.  Lagers & pale ales are very popular in Lapland. 

• Lapin Kulta,  A light beer made in Lapland also called Lapin Gold

• Saana,  A Laplan brewed pale ale. 

• Karhu,  A lager with a bear logo.

• Karjala,  A slightly hoppy lager. 

Glögi.  Spiced hot wine.

Location Specifics 

Language.  Finnish, Swedish and English are the most commonly spoken languages. 

Sami Culture.  Show respect to the Sami people, culture and traditions. 

Costs.  Finland, like much of Scandinavia is an expensive destination

Cash vs. Card.  Cash is rarely used across the country. Use credit or card debit card for most transactions. 

Tipping. Tipping is not expected or required. Tip 10% for exceptional service.

Temperature.  Lapland gets very cold during the winter. The temperature dropped to -28C (-18F) before windchill one night. Dress in several warm layers, cover all exposed skin, use hand and toe warmers.

Driving.  Driving is easy during the winter. The roads are regularly plowed. All rental cars are equipped with snow tires. Rent a car at the Ivalo airport from Green Motion. 

For Next Time…

We’ve developed a love of Scandinavia and hope to return to Finland one day! When we do, we plan to visit the village of Rovaniemi during Christmas and return to Lapland during the late summer when the berries bloom and the sun doesn’t set. 

Copenhagen, Denmark

A Scandinavian City

Copenhagen is consistently ranked as one of the happiest places in the world. The Scandinavian city is home to boat lined canals, cobblestone streets and colorful buildings, centuries old castles and seat to the Danish monarchy. It’s a hub for design, contemporary European cuisine and seasonal Christmas markets. The city tells a rich history through its many museums, historic architecture and canals. 

Copenhagen’sCanals & Neighborhoods

The Nyhavn Canal.  A picturesque 17th century canal with historic colorful buildings, old wooden ships, cafes, bars and restaurants, some of which are located on the old wooden ships. Strømma Canal Tours depart from here every hour, leading past many bridges and sights along Copenhagen’s Grand Canal, The Christianshavns Canal and Frederiksholms Canals. 

The Frederiksholms Canal.  A canal lined with all types of vessels including fishing boats, floating restaurants, a light house ship and multitudes of house boats. We spent our stay in Copenhagen, docked along the canal in a cozy wooden ship. The cabin included a bed at the bow of the boat, open kitchen and living area with port holes overlooking the water. Book on Airbnb.

Indre By.  A large neighborhood at Copenhagen’s city center with canals and roads lined with historic buildings, national monuments, plazas and shopping streets. 

Slotsholmen.  An island neighborhood surrounded by the Frederiksholms Canal. The island was once the seat of the Danish monarchy and is the present home of parliament, the prime minister’s office, multiple museums, public squares and stately buildings. 

Christmas in Copenhagen 

Copenhagen’s Christmas festivities are in full swing by late November! The city is illuminated in twinkle lights, pine trees stand tall in public plazas, buildings are decorated with garland and Christmas markets lure people in with their holiday cheer. 

Christmas Markets 

The city center is home to at least three Christmas Markets. Each one is very similar in style with decorated wooden stalls selling gifts and traditional Christmas market food and beverages.

• Julemarked Kongens Nytorv. The largest Christmas market lining the perimeter of King’s New Square and stretching towards the beginning of the Nyhavn Canal.

• Julemarked Højbro Plads.The second largest Christmas market located in High Bridge Square between the Frederiksholms Canal and Strøget.

• Julemarked HC Andersen.The smallest Christmas market located in Nytorv Square.

Christmas Market Food

Some of the classic Christmas Market food and beverages are: 

• Gløgg.  Hot wine mulled with spices, raisins and toasted almonds. 

• Lumumba.  Hot chocolate with rum or amaretto and marshmallow or whipped cream on top. 

• Æbleskiver.  Fried fluffy balls of dough with jam and powdered sugar. 

• Brændte Mandler.  Roasted candied almonds. Their irresistible scent fills the air. 

• Pølser.  Long thin sausages cooked over a bed of coals, placed between two halves of a bun and garnished with sauces, onions and pickles. 

• Fish & Chips.  Deep fried cod with French fries. 

• Roasted Chestnuts.  Warm, buttery, soft and starchy nuts. 

Visit Tivoli Gardens 

A romantic 19th century theme park with rides, restaurants and gardens.The park has classic rides like a ferris wheel and carousel, two small but nonetheless thrilling roller coasters and a wide range of other rides and games. There is no shortage of places to eat with sit down style restaurants, a food hall and stands along the park’s paths. Within the center of the park is a pond with walkways, paddle boats and a pirate ship.The park is said to have inspired Disney world with sections themed to look and feel like China, Morocco and India. Each section decorated in architectural elements and monuments representative of each culture.  Being here during the holidays, the park was transformed into a Christmas wonderland with decorated trees, twinkle lights, Christmas music and all the elements of any good Christmas market. 

See the Sights

Copenhagen is a beautiful city lined with canals, cobble stone squares, historic buildings, castles, towers, palaces and churches. We toured several sights as we explored the city. 

Church of Our Savior Spire.  A 17th century church with a tall spiral spire and lookout. The interior and lower portion of the spire zigzags upwards through stairs and narrow passageways within the tower passing church bells and broken statues. The upper portion is located outside of the spire and winds up its exterior via a spiral staircase with the most stunning 360 views of Copenhagen.

Rundetaarn (The Round Tower).  A 16th century tower in the center of Copenhagen with rooftop views of the city. It was built for use as an observatory and still functions as one today. The wide spiral ramp leading to its top was designed so that horse and carriages could climb to the top. 

Rosenborg Castle.  A 15th century castle previously home to Denmark’s monarchy. The castle is now a museum with preserved lavish rooms, hidden chambers, portraits of the monarchs, antique furniture, tapestries and artifacts. It’s home to the Crown Jewels watched over by royal guards. The Crown Jewels include multiple jewel encrusted gold crowns, elaborate sets of jewelry, the coronation sepulture and large pink diamond. The estate is surrounded by the King’s Garden with sculptures, paths and fountains. 

Kunst Museum.  Denmark’s largest art museum with Danish and European art ranging from the 15th century to present day. We visited when Matisse’s “Red Room” was on display with several other pieces depicted in it for the first time since he painted the work. 

Gråbrødretorv Square.  A cobble stone square with colorful historic buildings, restaurants that spill out into the square and cocktail bars including Strøm Bar and Peder Oxe’s Kaelder. It was one of our favorite places to visit and felt like a hidden gem in the city center.

Christiansborg Palace.  The seat of the Danish prime minister, supreme court and parliament. It has a tall tower with views of the city and equestrian lawn.

Torvehallerne.  A food hall and market with over 60 restaurants and stalls selling baked goods, seafood, meats, cheese, wine, snaps, spices, produce and kitchenware. It’s a great place to try some of the traditional Danish dishes. Try Hallernes Smørrebrød for smørrebrød, Bageri for vienerbrød and Boutique Fisk for fiskfrikideler. 

Free Town Christiania.  An abandoned military base turned into a self governing community. Its former warehouses, bunkers and barracks that have been converted into homes, art studios, music venues, shops, restaurants and a brewery. Much of the neighborhood is decorated with street art and graffiti while buildings are retrofitted with larger windows, balconies and rooftop enclosures. The neighborhood is also a green space with lush nature and bike trails along the canal and where nature has began to take over. Though it remains illegal, Free Town Christianiais the only place in Denmark where vendors openly sell cannabis and related products

Good to Know.  Avoid directly photograph anything “drug” related. Mind the the “no photo” signs where posted. 

Danish Cuisine 

There are two types of Danish cuisine, traditional and contemporary. Traditional Danish cuisine is defined by a few main types of food like Smørrebrød, Fiskfrikideler and Vienerbrød. Contemporary Danish cuisine focuses on locally sourced, seasonal, foraged and pickled ingredients. 

Smørrebrød.  An open-face sandwich decoratively topped with colorful ingredients on a thin slice of heavily seeded bread. It’s often seafood based with cured salmon, cold water prawns, fried cod or pickled herring. It’s a common lunch meal and possibly Denmark’s most popular dish.

Snaps.  A herbal, bitter and high proof alcoholic beverage often drank as shots with Smørrebrød.

Fiskfrikideler.  A deep fried ball of dough, onion and cod, sometimes mixed or garnished with dill.

Vienerbrød.  Commonly referred to as the Danish, this is any style of flaky pastry with a custard or jam center. The most traditional of which has a light drizzle of chocolate of the top of it. Other common pastries include cinnamon rolls and cardamom croissants. 

Buns.  A hardy bread roll served with butter, jam and cheese. It’s a common breakfast.

Places to Eat & Drink

We toured Copenhagen on foot and by taste! These were several of the restaurants, cafes, bars and food stands that we visited. 

Restaurants 

Bistro Lupa.  A vegan restaurant specializing in contemporary Danish cuisine with a 5 course tasting menu and wine paring. The restaurant focuses on zero waste so everything is seasonal, locally scoured, foraged and pickled. 

Oysters & Grill.  A rustic seafood and wine bar with a 12 course tasting menu for 2. It came with a range of shellfish served different ways including raw oysters, fried oysters, scallop ceviche, grilled scallops on the shell, fried shrimp, pick and peal shrimp, mussel mariners, fried calamari, veggie crudités, salad, French fries, bread and dessert. 

Hanegal.  A food cart serving pølser out front of the Round Tower. This one offers multiple types of sausage including a vegan sausage.

Nyhavn 17.  A yellow building along the Nyhavn Canal with a dimly lit and wooden interior. The restaurant serves traditional Danish cuisine like smørrebrød. We had fried cod and pickled herring smørrebrød with snaps and gløgg.

Coffee Shops & Cafes

From hidden cafes, to cute coffee shops and local chains, there is no shortage of places to find a pastry and morning coffee. 

Hart Brød+Bar.  A waterfront cafe with pasties, coffee, breads and wine. Try the spandauer pastries (traditional danishes) and cardamom croissants.

GRØD.  A chain restaurant specializing in stovetop porridge and overnight oats.

Lille Petra.  A cafe hidden within a courtyard of a building servings Danish breakfast buns. 

Original Coffee.  A popular coffee shop chain located throughout the city. 

Bars & Pubs 

Across the city are a range cocktail bars, speakeasies, traditional pubs and breweries. Some of our favorite are: 

Strøm Bar.  An Art Deco and tropically decorated cocktail bar with cozy seating and a small shuffle board.

1105.  A late night bar hidden in an alley and behind a velvet curtain serving speciality cocktails. 

The Barking Dog.  A tequila and mezcal focused cocktail bar in a cozy basement apartment style setting.

Pulp.  A cocktail bar with a creative pop culture themed menu in a warm Danish designed interior. 

Peder Oxe’s Kaelder.  A cocktail bar and restaurant in a catacomb style tunnel and chambers of an old church. 

Nyhavnskroen.  Located on the Nyhavn Canal, this is a late night pub serving liters of beer and classic cocktails. 

Nemo’s.  Located in Christiania, this is a popular brunch spot in front of an outdoor music venue. Having recently eaten, we stopped in for a locally brewed beer.

Location Specifics

Hygge.  The Danish concept of coziness and surrounding yourself with things that make life good, especially during the dark cold winters. This can be friendship, laughter, warmth, food or drinks. It’s pronounced hoo-gah.

Walking.  Copenhagen is a very pedestrian friendly and walkable city. We spent most of our visit walking between neighborhoods and destinations. Be careful not to walk into a bike lane.

Reservations.  Reservations are typically needed at restaurants and bars to guarantee a seat. 

Cash vs Card.  Cash is rarely needed as most places, including food carts, take credit card.

Language.  Danis is the national language though English is widely spoken as a second language throughout Copenhagen. 

Public Restrooms.  There are public restrooms throughout the city, most commonly in squares and plaza. 

For Next Time…

Next time we’re in Copenhagen we plan to venture into the country side and across the harbor to Sweden. 

Visit Skovtårnet (The Forest Tower).  A contemporary wooden structure in the middle of the Danish forest about an hour south of Copenhagen. 

Frederiksborg Castle & Gardens.  A Danish Royal castle and grounds on a lake in the countryside about 30 minutes north of Copenhagen. 

Malmö.  The Swedish city across the harbor from Copenhagen. It’s known for the Turning Torso, Scandinavia’s tallest skyscraper. 

Icelandic Roadtrip

Icelandic Roadtrip

Iceland is a Nordic country in the North Atlantic famed for its other worldly landscapes, volcanos, glaciers, waterfalls, black sand beaches and geysers. It’s a frequent place to spot the Northern Lights in the winter months, bathe in thermal springs and whale watch. We visited Iceland for 5 days in mid-January, road tripping around the Golden Circle, along the South Coast and making time to explore Reykjavik. 

The Golden Circle 

The Golden Circle is a scenic route with several natural sites including a fault line, geysers, waterfalls and volcanos. It’s easily reachable from Reykjavík and can be explored within a day. 

Almannagjá Fault Line

The Almannagjá Fault Line is the location is where the North American and Eurasian plates are visibly pulling apart. We arrived just before sunrise. The sky was light pink and yellow in the early morning light, tones that were reflected by the white snow covered landscape. From a lookout, we admired the vast fissure that split the landscape in half, spanning for miles in both directions. After watching the sun rise, we followed a trail that descended into the fissure. On both sides of us were walls of jagged rocks dusted in fresh snow. The trail continued a few kilometers further. 

Getting Here.  The Almannagjá Fault Line is located about 45 minutes to 1 hour rom Reykjavík by car. 

Strokkur Geyser

The Strokkur Geyser is an active geyser with impressive eruptions happing every 5-15 minutes. We arrived as a cloud from a recent eruption billowed across the road in front of us. The smell of sulphur filled the air as boiling water bubbled from craters dotting the landscape around us. Soon after reaching the geyser, it erupted in a whoosh, sending steam and water 30 meters high. We walked to several other geysers in the area as the Strokkur Geyser routinely erupted in the background. 

Getting Here.  The Strokkur Geyser islocated about 1 hour from the Almannagjá Fault Line by car. 

Gullfoss Waterfall

The Gullfoss Waterfall is a massive waterfall on the Hvita River. The river cascades down two diagonal cliffs over 100 feet into the canyon below. The waterfall and river were mostly frozen when we visited but none-the-less dramatic. 

Getting Here.  The Gullfoss Waterfall islocated about 15 minutes from the Strokkur Geyser by car.

Kerið Crater Lake

The Kerið Crater Lake is a small lake located in the crater of an extinct volcano. The volcano is one of several forming a mini volcanic arc. While here, we hiked around the entire rim and descended into the crater. The lake was completely frozen over, allowing us to walk to its center. The steep snow covered pathways were extremely icy making is slightly dangerous but worth the hike. 

Getting Here.  The Kerið Crater Lake islocated about 1 hour from the Gullfoss Waterfall by car.

Ægissíðufoss Waterfall

Ægissíðufoss Waterfall is a small but beautiful cascading waterfall located on the Ytri-Rangá River in the town of Hella. The Hekla Volcano fumed in the distance upstream. 

Getting Here.  The Ægissíðufoss Waterfall islocated about 15 minutes outside of the town of Hella by car.

Our Cottage in Hella 

After exploring the Golden Circle, we spent the remainder of our evening at a cottage in the town Hella. The cottage was one of several perched on a hill overlooking a snow covered field. We made it our home base during our stay along Iceland’s southern coast. Book on Airbnb. 

The Northern Lights

The Northern Lights danced in the sky above our cottage every morning and evening. The aurora ranged from faint ribbons of pale green to brilliant displays of neon green that swirled and stretched across the sky. There was even a rare combination of green and red bands. We monitored the aurora conditions using NOAA’s Space Weather Prediction Center.

Dinner in Hella

Stracta Bistro.  A nordic restaurant serving Icelandic cuisine. Having spent all day outside, we warmed up with a bowl of Fiskisúpa, fish soup, and side of Rugbrauð, Icelandic rye bread.

The South Coast (Part 1)

Iceland’s South Coast is scenic destination home to glaciers, black sand beaches and waterfalls. We spent two days roadtripping along the South Coast from our cottage in Hella. On day one of the South Coast, we hiked across a frozen glacier, walked along a scenic black sand beach and watched impressive waterfall. 

Sólheimajökull Glacier Tour 

High on our list of to dos in Iceland was to visit a glacier. We booked an excursion with Arctic Adventures through Get Your Guide. We met our guide at 10am and geared up with ice cleats, helmets, a harness and an ice pick. Our guide took us and a small group on a hike along the lagoon to the front edge of the glacier. From there, we began our trek onto the ice. As we walked, it crunched below our cleats as we maneuvered through crevices and across its surface. The surface was rippled yet smoothed by water and wind. As we looked across the glacier, we admired the blue hues emanating from it and veins of black volcanic ash from previous eruptions. 

Getting Here.  The Sólheimajökull Glacier islocated about 1 hour from the town of Hella by car.

Lunch in Vik

After our glacier tour we drove to Vik, a remote coastal village on the southern most point of Iceland with colorful wooden houses and a black sand beach. While here, we ate lunch at The Soup Company. We ordered their volcano bowl, a black bread bowl with “winter soup” made from carrots, onions, lentil, coconut cream and crushed pineapple. They offer free refills of any soup so we went back for seconds and tried the broccoli cheddar. 

Getting Here.  Vik islocated about 30 minutes from The Sólheimajökull Glacier by car.

Reynisfjara Beach 

On the other side of Vik is Reynisfjara Beach. A black sand beach with jagged rock formations sticking out of the water and hexagonal basalt columns along the cliffside. Loving the beach, even in winter, we walked nearly two miles down it as the sun was setting. The waves here are ferocious and unpredictable so we stayed far away from the shoreline, keeping our eyes in the water and following warnings. 

Getting Here.  Reynisfjara Beach islocated about 15 minutes from Vik by car.

Skogafoss Waterfall 

Skogafoss is a grand and picturesque waterfall, both impressive for its height and width. The water seemed to move in slow motion as it fell. It was equally as peaceful as powerful to watch. There is a trail and staircase to an overlook at the top of the falls. It also leads further upstream to several smaller waterfalls. It was closed when we visited due to snow and ice. 

Getting Here.  Skogafoss Waterfall islocated about 30 minutes from Reynisfjara Beach by car.

Dinner in Selfoss 

After exploring glaciers, black sand beaches and waterfalls, we drove to the town of Selfoss for dinner in the town square. A renovated but historic site with traditional Icelandic architecture with colorful buildings, ornate moldings and gridded windows. The square had a holiday feel with piles of snow, string lights and a glittering Christmas tree still on display. 

Messinn. A restaurant specializing in contemporary adaptations of traditional Icelandic cuisine. We had the scallops served in a shell, cod cheeks sautéed in a miso glaze and plokkfiskur, a cod, potato and béchamel casserole. The interior looked like a vintage modern ship with wooden booths, port hole windows, a canvass ceiling made from sails and nautical decor.

Getting Here.  Selfoss islocated about 1 hour 15 minutes from Skogafoss Waterfall by car.

The South Coast (Part 2)

Iceland’s South Coast is scenic destination home to glaciers, black sand beaches and waterfalls. We spent two days roadtripping along the South Coast from our cottage in Hella. On day two of the South Coast, we watched the sunrise from an ice covered black sand beach, hiked to a basalt column waterfall, went climbing on Iceland’s largest glacier and were continually dazzled by the Northern Lights. 

Diamond Beach

Diamond Beach is a black sand beach covered jewel-like ice crystals. The glow of the sunrise cast a pink tone across the mountains and illuminated fragments of glacial ice that washed up on shore, resembling glittering diamonds set against the jet black sand. A vertical crescent moon rested low on the horizon while seals swam off shore and waves calmly splashed onto the beach. Photographers, dressed in winter gear, focused their lenses with the aim of capturing the scene while we gazed upon its pristine beauty. 

Getting Here.  Diamond Beach islocated about 4 hours from the town of Hella by car.

Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon 

The Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon separates the Atlantic Ocean from the Jökulsárlón Glacier. Ice bergs flow from it into the ocean, breaking apart and washing up on Diamond Beach. The lagoon’s surface looked like glass, only interrupted by the occasional seal coming up for air and taking a curious look around. 

Good to Know.  There are food trucks serving crepes, cold water prawns and fish & chips in the parking lot. 

Getting Here.  The Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon is located less than 5 minutes from Diamond Beach by car.

Svarrifoss Waterfall

The Svarrifoss Waterfall is a picturesque waterfall famous for its hexagonal basalt columns. During winter, the waterfall is frozen over with large icicles hanging from the hexagonal basalt columns flanking the waterfall. It’s accessible via the 2km Svarrifoss Trail starting at the Skaftafell Visitor Center. The trail, which has some steep sections offers views of the coast and mountains. It passes some smaller waterfalls and ruins of stone dwellings. 

Getting Here.  The trail head to the Svarrifoss Waterfall is located about 45 minutes from Diamond Beach. 

Falljökull Glacier

The Falljökull Glacier is glacial tongue extending from Iceland’s largest glacier, Vatnajökull Glacier. We came here to hike, explore ice caves and watch the sunset with a guide from Troll Expeditions. After gearing up, we trekked across the frozen lagoon and ash covered ice until reaching a series of blue and white ice crevices.

Ice Caves. A large crevice with a staircase carved into it lead to the entrance of an ice cave. The cave was blue with curved walls, rippled surfaces and deep blue veins where the ice had been heavily compressed. The cave lead to a narrow tunnel that burrowed deeper into the glacier, ending at a small chamber barely big enough for the two of us to squeeze into.

Glacial Sunset. We ascended further as the sun set, reaching a relatively smooth clearing with waves of ice that extended upwards towards jagged crevices and steep cliffs. Now high on the glacier, we stopped to listen to the silence, only interrupted by the occasional sharp crack of the ice. The color of the sky turned vibrant pink while the ice continually became bluer until it seemed to glow. Before reaching the ash covered base of the glacier, we came upon a window in the ice that framed the pink sky and mountain beyond. 

Getting Here.  The Falljökull Glacier islocated about 20 minutes from the Skaftafell Visitor Center by car.

Dinner in Vik

On our return to Hella, we stopped in Vik for dinner at Drangar, a restaurant specializing in modern Icelandic cuisine located at the Kria Hotel. We were welcomed with bread & butter sprinkled with black salt served on a lava rock. We ordered two Gulls and a range of small plates to share: an onion tart, Arctic char tartare, curried cod on a bed of risotto and a poached plum with skyr (Icelandic yogurt). 

Reykjavik

Reykjavik is scenic capital city of Iceland. It’s walkable downtown streets are lined with colorful corrugated buildings, old wooden houses and monumental landmarks. Icelandic boutiques and restaurants invite travelers in to shop for locally made goods and taste the country’s cuisine. The city is an ideal starting or ending point for most adventures in Iceland. 

Hallgrímskirkja Cathedral

The Hallgrímskirkja Cathedral is a stepped concrete cathedral designed with inspiration from the Icelandic landscape. The shape is meant to resemble an erupting geyser with its facade made from hexagonal columns reminiscent of the basalt columns seen across the country. There is an elevator to the top of the spire which overlooks Reykjavik. It was closed when we visited due to a funeral. 

Streets & Boutiques 

Rainbow Street.  A downtown street painted in a rainbow with boutiques and views of Hallgrímskirkja Cathedral.

Laugavegur.  A street with boutiques, vintage stores, design shops, restaurants, bakeries, cocktail bars and hotels. 

Reykjavik Raincoat.  A boutique specializing in modern raincoats sold in a range of colors. Their coats are made from the same material that Icelandic fishermen wear at sea. They also have wool accessories like hats, sweaters and scarves. 

Rammagerdin.  A boutique featuring local artists and handmade Icelandic products including taxidermy puffins, wool blankets, sweaters, yarn, leather gloves, furs, artwork and skincare items. 

The Water Front 

Reykjavik’s waterfront overlooks the bay and snow covered mountains across from it. It’s the site of multiple landmarks and starting point for whale watching tours. 

The Sun Voyager Sculpture.  A steel structure shaped like a Viking long boat, meant to inspire exploration. 

Harpa Concert Hall.  A geometric glass facade with a colorful kaleidoscopic effect. It’s inspired by the hexagonal basalt columns found across the island but also looks like the scales of a fish.

Höfði Lighthouse.  An iconic bright yellow lighthouse at the entrance of the Reykjavik Harbor.  

The Old Harbor.  Originally a fishing port and now a seaside neighborhood with restaurants and companies offering whale watching tours. There is free parking here.

Whale Watching 

Wildlife tours frequently leave from Reykjavik’s Old Harbor in search of spotting blue whales. As the ship set sail, we admired Reykjavik’s skyline behind us and the snow covered mountains across the bay ahead of us. Soon after entering the bay, the captain announced “thar she blows” to alert us he had spotted a whale! For newly two hours, we sailed around the icy bay watching a blue whale breach the surface, thrash its tail, spray water from its blow hole and dive back below. While on deck, we kept an eye out for where it would re-appear, often spotting seals hunting for fish. From the interior cabin we enjoyed fresh made waffles while warming up with hot coffee. We booked with Special Tours Iceland.

The Blue Lagoon

The Blue Lagoon is a geothermal spring famed is for its milky turquoise water. Its pools meander between hardened lava formations as towers of steam and mist rise above its surface. The environment is one of natural contrast with black lava rocks dusted in white snow and warm water juxtaposed the cold air. Stand under a hot waterfall while soaking in the thermal pools, enjoy a silica mud facial mask and drink fresh glacial water to hydrate. The lagoon is also a resort with a hotel, spa and multiple restaurants, including one built into an 800 year old lava cliff. Come here to relax immediately after flying into Reykjavik or before flying out. Book Tickets ahead of time. 

Places to Eat & Drink in Reykjavík

Reykjavík Fish. One of many restaurants offering the local favorite. We enjoyed large portions of crispy and tender fried cod paired with salted fries and Icelandic beer. The fisherman styled interior with whale paintings, nautical decor and lights shaded in dried cod skin added to the ambiance.

Matur og Drykkur. A Michelin stared restaurant serving seasonal tasting menus with Icelandic dishes and contemporary adaptations. The menu included: 

• Pickled beets with fennel straws

• Smoked trout with cucumber 

• Cheese with sea truffle and crispy flatbread 

• Halibut soup with a creamy broth 

• Bacalao croquettes with chive oil and béchamel 

• Hazelnut encrusted cod with parsnip purée and and smoked carrots 

• Rhubarb jam with skyr and ginger crumble 

• A coffee and spice cake topped with cream cheese icing and puffed barley

Braud & Co.  A bakery and cafe specializing in Snúður (cinnamon rolls), Rugbrauð (Icelandic rye bread), sourdough bread and pastries.

Víkinga Pylsur.  A food truck across from Hallgrímskirkja Cathedral with Icelandic sausages. We ordered a vegan version with purpled cabbage, seitan crumble, fried onion and creamy mustard. 

Lemmy.  A small pub and microbrewery located inside of an old wooden house in the center of town. We sampled 4 beers on tap:

• Einstök Toasted Porter.  A nutty and rich flavor. 

• Víking.  A classic light Pilsner available across Iceland. 

• Lemmy IPA.  A house IPA infused with coffee. 

• Bóndi Session IPA.  A semi hoppy IPA available across Iceland.

Tips for Planning an Icelandic Road Trip

Rent a Car.  Driving is the easiest way to get around on our own schedule. Rent a 4x4 wheel drive with an automatic transmission. We reserved a car before arriving in Iceland with Europcar at the Keflavik Airport. 

Book a Home Base.  Choose to stay somewhere central. We stayed at Hestheimar, a cottage in the town of Hella, half way between Reykjavik and Vik, making in the ideal location to explore the Golden Circle and South Coast from. 

Maximize Daylight. Plan to maximize daylight during the winter months. In mid-January, there is only about 5 hours of sunlight per day.

Prepare for the Weather.  Prepare and dress for rain, sleet, snow, ice and high winds. Hand and toe warmers maker all the difference while in the cold. 

Monitor Road Conditions.  Review the current Road Conditions before driving.

Avoid the Shoulder.  Do not pull over into the snowy roadside. You will get stuck! Instead, park on the road with your emergency flashers on. 

Drive the Speed Limit.  Hidden cameras are positioned across the country. If speeding, they will catch you and result in expensive fines! 

Rest Stops.  Most sites have nearby hotel, restaurant and restroom. 

Gas Stations.  Most towns have their own gas station. Be prepared for the extremely expensive prices. 

Buy Snacks.  Stock up on snacks and water for roadtrips. 

For Next Time…

Iceland is a remarkable country to visit! We loved our time road tripping around the  Golden Circle, along the South Coast and exploring Reykjavik. We plan to return to Iceland during the summer months: 

• See the green moss covering the landscape. 

• Explore the north side of the country. 

• Pet an Icelandic horse. 

• Visit and birdwatch on a puffin colony. 

• Experience the midnight sun. 

• Bathe in some of the lesser known thermal springs.