Zanzibar Travel Guide: Stone Town, Beaches & Swahili Culture
Escape to Zanzibar where historic Stone Town, fragrant spice gardens, white sand beaches and turquoise waters bring together centuries of history, culture and island life.
Zanzibar, Tanzania
Zanzibar is an exotic island off the coast of mainland Tanzania in the Indian Ocean. It’s famed for its white sand beaches, turquoise waters and historic spice trade. History lives on in the narrow alleyways, markets and cultural sights of Stone Town. Maasai tribesmen sell beaded accessories and perform cultural dances. Swahili phrases like Hakuna Matata (no worries) and Pole Pole (slowly slowly) are the local way of life. We spent a week on the island, splitting out time between Stone Town and the beach towns of Kendwa and Nungwi.
Stone Town
Stone Town is the historic district of Zanzibar City. Its narrow streets and winding alleyways meander between landmark buildings, former sultanate palaces and crumbling ruins. Stained glass windows, wooden balconies and ornately carved doors decorate their tan facades. Tropical plants and palm trees grow from small gardens and roadsides. Stray cats roam freely, often patrolling unoccupied stoops. Local merchants sell jewelry, spices, ebony artifacts, safari style paintings and beaded decorations. It’s a small district but easy to get lost in, making its narrow walkways even more enchanting.
Stone Town Historical Sights
The Old Fort. An Arab style fort built to defend Zanzibar during the sultanate’s rule. Its sand colored walls, curved facade and rounded battlements are characteristic of historic forts built in Oman. The inside of the fort hosts an outdoor amphitheater with regular musical performances as well as a couple dozen craft and souvenir shops. Tourist offices advertise well priced tours, transfers and cooking classes.
Slave Market Museum. Stone Town was one of the main port cities used during the East African Slave Trade. The town’s former slave market was a site of horrors. A museum recounts the history of the slave trade from its Portuguese colonial beginnings to expansion by the Omani sultanate and eventual abolition by the British. A church was built over the location of the slave market. Its whipping post and two former cells remain as a reminder of the period’s atrocities. Outside of the church is a sobering monument of enslaved Africans with iron chains around their necks.
Good to Know. The museum requires a guide to enter. One can be hired at the gate outside of the museum for a gratuity. Our guide shared in depth information of the history of the slave trade in Stone Town and the market’s horrific history.
The Royal Cemetery. A cemetery and museum dedicated to the generations of sultans that ruled Zanzibar until the island’s independence. A museum curator led us through the small exhibit, recounting the history and lineage of the sultans. We visited the cemetery where most of them and their descendants are buried.
Good to Know. Both of the neighboring sultan’s palaces, The People’s Palace and House of Wonders, were closed for renovations.
The Old Dispensary. One of Stone Town’s best preserved historic buildings. Its ornate facade is decorated in three levels of intricately carved wooden balconies. Its teal color and location along the waterfront allow it to stand out.
Stone Town Coastal Sights
Stone Town Waterfront & Harbor. The waterfront of Stone Town is lined with historic buildings, palm lined walkways and a harbor dotted with anchored tour and fishing boats.
Forodhani Park. A lush waterfront park with palm lined walkways, flowering trees and views of Stone Town’s harbor. Local guides advertise walking tours while boat captains offer day trips to neighboring islands. Small kiosks offer light bites and drinks while the park comes to life at night for an evening street food market.
Shangani Public Beach. A yellow sand beach hooking around the western tip of Stone Town. It’s popular for sunsets, boat tours and to watch locals play beach football. Multiple luxury hotels have restaurants and pools looking out over the beach.
Prison Island. A small island off the coast of Zanzibar famed for its Aldabra Tortoise Sanctuary and historic ruins. The giant and slow moving tortoises roam in large pens. They range from two weeks to over two centuries old! Their shells are marked with red and blue numbers noting their age and gender. Vibrant peacocks strut around the island’s trails. The bright blue surrounding waters are home to clusters of spiky sea urchins and colorful starfish. The island is named after a prison built by the Omani sultans and later used as a quarantine camp by the British. The prison is now used as a historical exhibit for Zanzibar with shops, a restaurant and bar.
Getting Here. Boat captains leave from the beach in front of the Zanzibar Ferry Terminal. They charge $20 for a private boat and round trip transfer to Prison Island. The boat ride takes about 20 minutes.
Entrance Fees. There is a small port fee of a few dollars and separate entrance fee to visit the tortoise sanctuary.
The Island Of Spice
Zanzibar is known as The Island of Spice. Its long history of spice cultivation has influenced the island’s culture, identity and cuisine. Spice permeates throughout the flavors and aromas of local cuisine, coffees and markets. One of the best ways to experience the spices is at the source, spice farms.
Kizimbani Spice Farm. A spice farm offering a glimpse into the wide array of spices and fruits grown on Zanzibar. A guide led us through gardens with flowers, fruits, plants and vines used to produce different spices like cardamom, peppercorn, clove, lemongrass, nutmeg, ginger, turmeric, galangal, cocoa, cinnamon (bark and root), vanilla and curry leaf. A spice hunter followed us, climbing trees, picking leaves and digging up roots to harvest raw spices as examples. At the end of the tour, we were adorned in palm leaf woven bracelets, neck ties and hats. Roadside vendors sell packets of ground spices, tea and coffee as well as soaps, perfumes and oils. Visit a fruit stand to taste a cornucopia of fruits grown on the island including grapefruit, orange, cucumber, passion fruit, avocado, mango, jackfruit, watermelon, papaya, pineapple and starfruit.
Getting Here. Hire a driver along the promenade for $30 USD round trip. No reservation is needed ahead of time. You’ll be paired with a guide and spice picker for free at the farm. The tour is free however guides operate on tips.
Shop the Markets & Bazaars
Darajani Bazaar. A small but robust market under covered alleyways and historic sheds. Merchants sell colorful packages of ground spices, spice blends, vanilla beans, teas and coffees. Vendors display piles of tropical fruits, fresh vegetables and leafy greens on tables. Butchers prepare cuts of meat while fishmongers filet the morning’s catch. Shop keepers sell traditional woven baskets. Women bake stacks of aromatic flatbreads on charcoal burning skillets. We purchased groceries for the week in addition to a refreshed supply of spices, coffees and teas.
Pro Tip. Visit in the mid morning. Prices are fair but like with all markets, haggle and negotiate for a better deal.
Forodhani Night Food Market. A nightly food market held in Forodhani Park. Charismatic chefs lure in customers with their persistence and genuinely tasty street food. Tables are covered in skewers of meat, seafood, starchy vegetables and flatbreads, all cooked over charcoal grills. Some chefs prepare local specialties like Urogo and Zanzibar Pizza. Juice vendors press sugarcane and ginger into a sweet blend. Shawarma carts broil and shave vertical rotisseries of meat. We came here for dinner two nights, filling up on a variety of street food.
Urojo. A Tanzanian street food soup made with a savory and sweet blend of spices, potatoes, crispy fried chickpea fritters and cassava shavings. It’s usually vegetarian by default.
Zanzibar Pizza. A thin dough wrapped around a variety of savory or sweet fillings and griddled like a pancake until cooked.
Places to Eat & Drink
Zanzibar Coffee House. A hotel café with spiced local specialties. Come here for their spice coffee made with Zanzibar spices, muesli with nuts and dates or pastries like cinnamon raisin rolls and date squares.
Out of Afrika. A touristy yet vibey restaurant along Stone Town’s waterfront promenade with a second floor balcony. The menu offers seafood and fruit dishes like watermelon gazpacho, pumpkin soups with coconut and the grilled sesame-crusted tuna salad. Try the Swahili cocktails like the Zanzibar spice punch or coriander and chili margarita.
Secret Garden. A cocktail bar and restaurant in the open air ruins of a historic Stone Town building. Crumbling plastered walls are covered in plants and vines. Potted palm trees were spaced between tables and chairs in front of a stage. Come here for the live music and hibiscus cocktails!
Mama Mia Gelato Italiano. A small gelato chain local to Zanzibar with classic and tropical flavors like cinnamon, vanilla and coconut.
Beach House Restaurant & Bar. A beautiful beachfront restaurant with a large outdoor patio overlooking the Indian Ocean. Come here for sunset cocktails and live music.
Kendwa & Nungwi
Kendwa & Nungwi are two beach towns on the northern tip of Zanzibar. They’re popular destinations with lengthy white sand beaches, swimmable turquoise waters and beachfront resorts. Restaurants serve Swahili cuisine and seafood dishes paired with local beers. Galleries and shops sell Maasai textiles, beaded jewelry, paintings and ebony figurines. Tour operators provide snorkeling excursions and sunset dhow boat cruises.
Kendwa Beach. Kendwa Beach is one of the prettiest beaches on Zanzibar! Its wide white sand shore meets the calming turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean. Several beachfront resorts and restaurants offer umbrellas and beach lounges to paying customers. Maasai tribesmen walk the beach, selling beaded jewelry, posing for photos and saying Jambo (hello) to passersby.
Kendwa Beach Gallery. Kendwa Beach connects to Nungwi Beach during low tide. The rock cliffs between become an art gallery with hundreds of animal and Maasai paintings.
Nungwi Beach. One of Zanzibar’s largest and most commercial beaches. Its white sand shore is lined with swimming areas, resorts, restaurants, souvenir shops and tour operators. The coast wraps around the island’s northern point making it perfect for long walks on the beach.
Good to Know. Beach vendors can be more aggressive in Nungwi than in Kendwa.
Coastal Excursions
Mnemba Atoll Snorkel Tour. The Mnemba Atoll is a coastal formation with shallow sandbars, coral reefs and a singular private island. Its aquamarine waters are home to starfish, dolphins and tropical fish. Speed boats ferry passengers from Nungwi to the atoll, stopping to spot dolphins along the way. A small pod porpoised above the water as snorkelers jumped in to swim along.
Mnemba Atoll Sand Bar. During low tide, large sandbars form around the Mnemba Atoll’s perimeter. Hundreds of boats moor in the shallows as sunbathers relax and walk along the temporary white sand beaches. Small reefs offer places to snorkel and spot tropical fish, the occasional starfish, swaying anemone and seagrasses. We booked ahead of time online with Langentours on Get Your Guide. The tour can be booked cheaper in person from any of the beach vendors.
Good to Know. Please do not remove the starfish from the water or touch them. It will seriously harm them.
Nungwi Sunset Dhow Cruise. Dhow boats are a traditional sailing vessel used by Zanzibar’s fishermen and spice merchants. The wooden ships are characterized by their triangular canvas sail hoisted from a singular mast. They have become a quintessential part of the island’s cultural identity and heritage. Captains offer nightly sunset cruises from Nungwi and Kendwa on these unique ships. Joined by the crew, a live band and other passengers, we sailed the coastal waters for over 2 hours. The band sang in Swahili and performed using makeshift instruments during the voyage. The crew prepared fresh fruits, mixed cocktails and sold beverages and snacks. We booked ahead of time online with Uforo Tour and Travelon Get Your Guide. The tour can be booked cheaper in person from any of the beach vendors.
Pro Tip. Bring a sweater or jacket if it’s a cloudy day. It can get chilly onboard.
Places to Eat & Drink
ZaVa Nungwi. A smaller beachfront restaurant with local dishes, beach lounges and happy hour cocktails. We came here for afternoon beers overlooking the Indian Ocean then returned for dinner and happy hour. Try whole grilled white snapper, fish burger and Dawa cocktail.
Sunset Kendwa. A popular beach front restaurant and resort at Kendwa Beach. We stopped in for their daily happy hour, sipping on $6 cocktails.
Mococo Beach Villa. A quiet beachfront restaurant with beach lounges under thatched umbrellas and palm trees. Come here for coffees, cocktails and light bites.
Zanzibar Cuisine
Seafood. Fresh caught fish is a common aspect of the cuisine on Zanzibar. A popular preparation is a whole fish grilled or fried.
Pilau. A hearty and flavorful “one pot” rice dish made with aromatic spices, onions, tomatoes, potatoes and a protein like beef, chicken or soy.
Sambusa. A common street food snack across Zanzibar brought over by Indian influences. The dough packets are stuffed with spices, potatoes and peas.
Curry. A common spice used to make savory stews and dishes made with meat, seafood or vegetables.
Chapati. A type of roti used to scoop stews and curries by hand.
Kachumbari. A salad made with chopped tomatoes, red onions and chili peppers.
Sugar Cane. Sugar cane is grown across the island. Street food vendors press it into juice or chop it into bite size pieces. Try it pressed with ginger!
Dawa. A commonly served local cocktail made with konyagi, lime juice, honey and tonic water.
Where to Stay
Lofihouse. A small and simple apartment with two private rooms in Stone Town’s historic center. It has a communal kitchen and laundry machine for guests. Reserve on Booking.
Kendwa Bungalow. A cute bungalow on a semi secluded property in Kendwa. It has a shared kitchen, outdoor dining room and private suite. It’s located about 15 minutes on foot from the beach. Book on Airbnb.
Location Specifics
Mandatory Inbound Travel Insurance. The semi autonomous government of Zanzibar requires all foreign visitors to purchase state sponsored travel insurance. This is regardless of any private travel insurance you may have while visiting the island. It’s a classic scam but they won’t let you enter without it. Purchase on the official government site, Visit Zanzibar, before or when arriving.
Tours & Activities. Book tours and activities in person and negotiate with local guides for the best prices. Guides frequently approach visitors offering a range of experiences including island tours, spice farm tours, walking tours and taxis. The tourist office at the Old Fort advertises well priced tours, transfers and cooking classes.
When to Visit. We visited in mid August, during Zanzibar’s peak season, coinciding with the dry season. The time of year is typically sunny and warm, with temperatures around 80F by day and 70F by night. Strangely, it was overcast most days with light rain in Nungwi and Kendwa after 11am.
Cash vs Card. Carry cash! Most businesses only accept cash, either Tanzanian Shillings or US Dollars. No one will accept US Dollars over 10 years old or with tears and writing on them.
LGBTQ+ Safety. Tanzanian laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice.
Language. English, Italian and Swahili are commonly spoken by many people in Zanzibar.
Swahili Words & Phrases
Swahili is the local language in Zanzibar. We learned several basic words and phrases during our travels here.
Jambo. A formal greeting meaning hello.
Mambo. An informal greeting meaning hello or how are you?
Poa or Poa Poa. A common response to Mambo, meaning good or well.
Habari Asubuhi. Good morning.
Lala Salama. Good night or sleep well.
Kwa Heri. Goodbye.
Asante. Thank you.
Asante Sana. Thank you very much.
Karibu. Welcome or you’re welcome.
Hakuna Matata. The phrase made world famous by the Lion King. It’s a real Swahili phrase meaning no worries or no problems.
Pole Pole. A phrase meaning “slowly, slowly” or slow down. It’s a common expression on the island.
Getting Around
On Foot. The historic center of Stone Town is very walkable and easily the best way to see the city’s sights and experience its culture. Plan to wander the maze-like streets and get lost.
By Taxi. Hire a taxi driver from Stone Town to Kendwa or Nungwi. Drivers wait along the Mizingani Road promenade. The transfer takes about 1 hour 30 minutes. Don’t pay more than $40 USD.
Tuk Tuk. The small three wheeled vehicles are a popular way of covering short distances in Stone Town and between Kendwa and Nungwi. Prices are cheap, costing no more than 10K shillings ($4 USD).
Elsewhere in Tanzania
From Zanzibar's beaches and Swahili heritage to the wildlife rich plains of the Serengeti and the heights of Mount Kilimanjaro, continue exploring Tanzania's diverse landscapes and cultures through these travel guides:
Tanzania Safari Guide: Serengeti, Ngorongoro & Wilderness Camping. Journey through Tanzania's vast landscapes where wildlife and migrating herds roam across endless plains and ancient calderas alongside remote safari camps.
Mount Kilimanjaro Guide: Lemosho Route, Mountain Camping & Uhuru Peak. Trek through Mount Kilimanjaro's changing landscapes where alpine scenery, mountain camps and summit trails lead to Africa's highest point at Uhuru Peak.
For Next Time…
One week in Zanzibar was not nearly enough time to enjoy this Indian Ocean paradise. When we return, we plan to explore the forests in the island’s interior and other nearby islands.
Jozani Forest. A tropical forest in the south of the island with rainforest, mangroves and coastal ecosystems. It’s home to chameleons, dolphins and colobus monkeys.
Pemba Island. A large island a part of the Zanzibar archipelago. It’s famed for its coral reefs, abundant marine life, white sand beaches, tropical forests and spice farms.
Mount Kilimanjaro Guide: Lemosho Route, Mountain Camping & Uhuru Peak
Trek through Mount Kilimanjaro's changing landscapes where alpine scenery, mountain camps and summit trails lead to Africa's highest point at Uhuru Peak.
Summiting Africa’s Highest Point
Mount Kilimanjaro is Africa’s tallest mountain and one of the world’s Seven Summits. The highest point, Uhuru Peak, tops out at 5,895 meters or 19,341 feet above sea level. While difficult to hike, it’s considered a “walking mountain,” as it doesn’t require specialized equipment or experience to summit. We spent 7 days hiking the Lemosho Route, a scenic route with a higher success rate than others.
The Lemosho Route
The Lemosho Route is a multi-day trek to the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro. It’s very scenic, leading through picturesque landscapes and all of the mountain’s climate zones. The summit becomes visibly closer each day of the hike, offering rewarding views. The Lemosho Route is best for slowly acclimating to the increases in altitude. It takes 8 days but can be completed in 6 or 7 days, depending on speed and acclimatization. The route has an elevation gain of 3,795 meters (12,450 feet) to reach the summit. It covers a distance of 48km (30 miles) to the Uhuru Peak.
Preparation
The day prior to beginning our Mount Kilimanjaro hike gave us time to prepare for the adventure of a lifetime. We were introduced to our guide who briefed us on the week ahead and inspected our gear. He brought us to RRM Outdoor Rental Equipment Stores to rent all missing gear needed for the hike. Afterwards, we went shopping for snacks at the Rafiki Supermarket and purchased Diamox from the Mount Kibo Pharmacy. We spent the evening relaxing at our hotel and sipping on a Kilimanjaro Lager as a toast to the upcoming trek!
Note. Read further below for detailed hiking tips, our packing list, estimated costs and tipping procedures.
Day One
Introductions. The first day of our hike to the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro began with an introduction to the crew that would be accompanying and supporting us over the week ahead. Our guide introduced us to the assistant guide, the cook and team of 10 porters! They sang the Kilimanjaro Song, Jambo Bwana, to warmly welcome us. We later heard it countless times at camps and along the trail to the summit.
Lemosho Gate. The crew shuttled us to the Lemosho Gate for the official start of our hike. En route, we passed through The Cultivation Zone, one of five climate zones on the mountain, characterized by hilly fields of hardy crops and pine trees. The gate marks the start of the Lemosho Route, beginning at an elevation of 2,100 meters (6,890 feet). The first 7km leads through the Vegetation Zone to the Mti Mkubwa Camp.
The Vegetation Zone. The Vegetation Zone is the second of five climate zones on the mountain. We hiked two hours through its verdant cloud forest and foggy pathways to reach the route’s first camp.
Mti Mkubwa Camp. A small forest clearing surrounded by dense trees inhabited by wild monkeys. It sits at a relatively low elevation of 2,650 meters (8,695 feet). We met our crew here for our first night on the mountain. They set up our tent and outfitted it with a small dining nook stocked with teas, coffee, spreads and snacks. The cook served us the first of many feasts to come. The meal included cucumber soup, avocado salad, fried potatoes and fish makange. We played cards before bed, waking up in the middle of the night to see the starry arms of the Milky Way stretching across the sky.
Day Two
An Early Start. The day began with an early start before the sunrise. The crew prepared “bed tea,” hot water for washing and a breakfast spread comprised of porridge, crepes, omelettes and toast. Soon after, we continued our hike through the Vegetation Zone, passing moss covered trees with colobus monkeys jumping between their branches.
The Moorland Zone. The trail led into The Moorland Zone, the third of five climate zones on the mountain. It’s characterized by low lying bushes, dry grasses, flowering plants and small boulders. The open and dusty trail revealed scenic panoramas of the landscape and distant views of Kilimanjaro’s snow capped peak. We hiked 7km over 4 hours until reaching the Shira 1 Camp.
Shira 1 Camp. The first camp on the Shira Plateau, a relatively flat expanse of The Moorland Zone. The camp sits at a moderate elevation of 3,610 meters (11,844 feet). We arrived as the porters finished setting up our tent. Others arrived with large sacs balanced on their heads and packs slung over the shoulders. Ravens flew around us as we enjoyed the scenic views and ate vegetable pasta for lunch.
Back On the Trail. With plenty of energy and daylight left, we continued hiking across The Moorland Zone. The dusty trail led us 10km further across the Shira Plateau to the Shira 2 Camp. We arrived a day ahead of schedule, having trekked 17km over the course of the day. Mount Kilimanjaro’s icy peak grew noticeably closer.
Shira 2 Camp. A camp at the opposite end of the Shira Plateau at an elevation of 3,850 meters (12,631 feet). Colorful tents stood between boulders and bushes, rattled by strong winds of the open terrain. The sunset cast an amber glow across the landscape as the cold of night set in. We hunkered down inside of our tent, resting and waiting for dinner. The cook served us leek soup, coconut milk stewed beans and rice. We celebrated the success of the day with a packet of m&ms.
Medical Evaluations. With the increased elevation, our guides began performing nightly medical evaluations. They checked our heart rate, blood oxygen levels and general wellbeing.
Day Three
A Rough Night. No one slept well during the previous night. The cold and wind kept us and our crew awake more than half of the evening. The warmth of the sunrise spread across the Shira Plateau, melting the frost as we began day three.
The Alpine Desert Zone. The trail led higher in elevation to The Alpine Desert Zone, the fourth of five climate zones on the mountain. The terrain was dry, rocky and barren with little to no vegetation. We spotted a tiny Four Striped Grass Mouse scurrying between the rocks. The temperature became colder and the air noticeably thinner. The trail led steeply uphill to The Lava Tower.
The Lava Tower. A jagged geological formation created by hardened lava that cooled inside a now eroded volcanic vent. At 4,600 meters (15,092 feet), it’s a key feature along the Lemosho Route and a high altitude campsite. Getting here was difficult due to the increased elevation, though necessary for acclimating.
A Temporary Descent. The trail led us on a temporary descent from The Lava Tower, through The Alpine Desert and back into The Moorland. The path followed a partially frozen stream, past small waterfalls and into progressively lusher terrain. Colorful lichens covered boulders, green bushes sprouted from the hillside and flowers added color to the landscape. A grove of Giant Groundsels grew from the riverside. They’re alien-like trees with a central trunk and bushy arms topped with tufts of green leaves.
Baranco Camp. The trail led to the Baranco Camp, situated at an elevation of 3,900 meters (12,795 feet). It’s one of the largest camps on the mountain and a meeting point for multiple routes. A nomadic village of colorful tents, enthusiastic crews and optimistic hikers sprawl across the landscape. A sea of clouds parted to reveal the town of Moshi, 3,200 meters (10,500 feet) below. We rested during the afternoon before dinner. The cook prepared Ndzi, a Tanzanian vegetable stew with plantains, sweet potato, green beans and onions served alongside Chapatti, an East African flatbread.
Day Four
The Baranco Wall. The trail begins with a hike up the Baranco Wall, a steep rocky ridge just beyond the Baranco Camp. Hikers and their crews scale its 257 meter (843 feet) tall face. While steep, it doesn’t require any specialty equipment, only care and patience. The top of the wall has panoramic views of Mount Kilimanjaro’s ice capped summit, the cloud covered lowlands and distant silhouette of the Meru Volcano. The trail continues 6km further through a series of scenic valleys to The Karanga Camp.
The Karanga Camp. The final camp before Mount Kilimanjaro’s Base Camp. It resides at 3,995 meters (13,107 feet), similar in elevation to the past two camps. Us and our crew reached the camp by the early afternoon. We walked up the camp’s ridge to help further with the acclimatization. The exposed location down slope from the glacial summit makes the camp cold, especially at nighttime.
Pro Tip. Stuff tomorrow’s clothes inside your sleeping bag at night to warm up before changing in the morning. Thanks mom!
Day Five
The Hike to Base Camp. Day 5 began with our ascent to The Barafu Camp, Mount Kilimanjaro’s Base Camp. We hiked 4km across the dry and arid terrain of The Alpine Desert. Slate rocks creaked like broken pottery beneath our feet. The snow covered peak of Mount Kilimanjaro towered ahead. We reached the camp four hours later.
Barafu Camp. Barafu translates to “Ice” in Swahili. It’s a cold place, located at an elevation of 4,673 meters (15,331 feet). Tents covered the rugged mountainside. We sat outside of ours, peering across the mountain’s saddle towards the jagged Mawenzi Peak, the third highest in Africa. The cook prepared vegetable soup, fried fish and savory potato pastries stuffed with veggies for lunch. We spent the remainder of the afternoon and evening relaxing and acclimating.
Day Six
Midnight Hike to The Summit. The hike to the summit began at midnight. Our guides led us uphill along steep winding trails through the dark of night. Rocks, dust and fine gravel crunched beneath our feet. The stars spanned the night sky, twinkling brightly overhead. Ice and snow banks appeared the further we hiked. Guides erupted into spontaneous songs offering encouragement to those along the trail.
The Arctic Zone. The trek to the summit brought us into The Arctic Zone, the fifth of five climate zones on the mountain. It’s characterized by subzero temperatures, snow covered terrain and icy glaciers.
Stella Point. Daylight began to break 6 hours into our hike. The scarlet hued sunrise cast a warm glow over the cold and barren landscape. It was at the same time that we reached Stella Point, a lower peak below the main summit. It stands at 5,756 meters (18,885 feet).
The Trail to the Summit. The trail continued one hour past Stella Point. Though relatively flat, the distance in between was treacherous for many hikers suffering altitude sickness. Black lava rocks and glossy obsidian contrasted the white Arctic landscape. Icy pinnacles flanked the trail, glaciers hugged the slopes and snow blanketed the crater.
Uhuru Peak. Mount Kilimanjaro is Africa’s tallest mountain and one of the world's Seven Summits. The highest point tops out at 5,895 meters (19,341 feet) above sea level. After days of hiking, a congratulatory sign welcomed us to the summit! It was an overwhelming experience to reach. Tears were indeed shed. We celebrated with frozen candy bars and hot ginger tea. The mountain was surrounded by a sea of puffy white clouds. The shadow of Mount Kilimanjaro was cast across them.
The Rapid Descent. The guides limited us to 15 minutes at the summit due to the harsh environmental conditions. The rapid descent to the base camp took 3 hours. We napped and ate lunch before descending further into the Moorland Zone. The trail led to the High Camp, located at 3,950 meters (12,960 feet), one hour and a half later. It was the perfect rest area but not our final camp. The descent continued into the Vegetation Zone. Porters passed us in both directions as we followed the rocky path to the Mweka Camp, located at an elevation of 3,100 meters (10,171 feet). We spent our last night camping on the mountain here.
Day Seven
Crew Appreciation. The final day began with a goodbye to our mountain crew. We met them after breakfast to express our gratitude and to distribute tips.
The Rainforest Hike. The last leg of our journey led us through the rainforest. Our guide led us along the muddy and slippery trail through the foggy forest. Moss covered trees, giant ferns and tiny orchids flanked the path. Monkeys hopped between tree branches as birds squawked in the canopy. It took 3 hours to reach the park gate.
Certificates & Celebration. Park rangers verified our successful hike to the summit and awarded us certificates recognizing the achievement. Our crew brought us back to our hotel in Moshi and presented them to us while singing the Kilimanjaro song, Jambo Bwana. We spent the afternoon relaxing and celebrating with a bottle of South African bubbly while overlooking the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro.
Moshi, Tanzania
Moshi is a town at the base of Mount Kilimanjaro and starting point for many multi-day hikes up the mountain. The town is home to tour operators, gear outfitters, pharmacies, grocery stores and hotels making it an easy location for last minute gear and needs.
Rede Tours & Safaris. A well reviewed tour operator offering multi-day hiking trips to the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro. We booked the Unforgettable 8 Days Lemosho Route Trekking on Kilimanjaro with them prior to arriving in Moshi. They arranged every aspect of our hike including guides, porters, a cook and supplies.
Rafiki Supermarket. A chain grocery store with aisles of snacks and drinks. Come here to stock up on granola, dates, chocolates and chips prior to hiking.
RRM Outdoor Rental Equipment Store. An outdoor outfitter with all rental gear needed to hike Mount Kilimanjaro. We rented several items needed to complete the hike at the recommendation of our guide. Costs can quickly add up so be sure you actually need everything being recommended.
Mount Kibo Pharmacy. One of the largest pharmacies in Moshi. They sell Diamox, a medication used to cope with AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) also known as altitude sickness. No prescription is needed and a weak supply costs less than $1.
Where to Stay
The Belle View Inn Bed and Breakfast. A small hotel with comfortable rooms, daily breakfast, luggage storage and transportation to and from the airport. We stayed here before and after our hike to Mount Kilimanjaro. On a clear day, the peak of the mountain is visible from their second floor breakfast hut! Reserve on Booking.
Places to Eat & Drink
Having some time in Moshi before and after our hike to the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro, we dined out at a couple local restaurants and a coffee house.
Maembe Garden. An elevated restaurant with Swahili cuisine and well made cocktails. We came here to celebrate after summiting Mount Kilimanjaro. Try the veggie samosas and fish makange. To drink, order a Dawa, the local cocktail made with vodka, honey, lime and sugar.
Aikama Organic Restaurant. A restaurant in a commercial shopping center with Tanzanian and Swahili food. We each ordered the Fish Makange, a whole fried fish covered in a mixture of sautéed bell peppers and onions. It’s typically served with cardamom rice.
SSOH Coffee Factory. A café and roastery with house roasted Tanzanian coffee and artisanal madeleines.
Hiking Tips & Preparation
Hiking Mt. Kilimanjaro requires little preparation outside of practice hikes and acquiring the correct gear. We came up with several tips to follow while on the mountain.
Practice Hikes. Practice half to full day hikes on weekends with some steep inclines at least one month prior to condition yourself.
Support Network. Hike the mountain with a group or someone you know. Having a support network while hiking goes a long way. Guides are also great hype-men along the way!
Stay Positive. Believe in yourself and stay positive! Celebrate milestones with little rewards like eating a chocolate when you reach the next camp or rest area.
Stay Hydrated. Dehydration is the largest concern when hiking. Bring or rent a CamelBak with capacity for 3 liters of water per day. Have guides refill them before hiking for the day. Drink ginger tea to open the airways. Avoid drinking alcohol.
Pace Yourself. The altitude and exhaustion can quickly add up. Hike a longer route, like the Lemosho Route, to spend more time acclimating to the high altitude.
Dress Warm. Temperatures at night and especially at the summit are below freezing. Plan to add layers the further you ascend and strip them off as you descend.
Extreme UV. Prepare for extreme UV radiation at high elevations. Wear sunblock during the day, protective lip balm and UV reflective sunglasses.
Nighttime Noise. The noise of the wind is enough to keep you up at night. Bring ear plugs or noise canceling headphones to drown out sounds.
Best Time of Year. Hike during the dry season for the least chance of rain, snow and muddy trails. It’s colder during this time of year but is often the best time to hike Mt Kilimanjaro. The dry season lasts from July to October. We hiked in late July.
Hygiene. Basic squatting toilets are available at each campsite. Bring your own toilet paper and hand sanitizer. Guides often provide hot water and soap before meals. Some even offer scented hot towels.
Cell Service. There is minimal cell service or network on the mountain. Plan to disconnect or use limited service to keep family and friends updated.
Electricity. There is no electricity on the mountain. Bring a high capacity power bank to keep devices charged. Keep phones on airplane and low power mode to conserve battery. Store phones and power banks in a warm location.
Packing List
Clothing
Thermal leggings or underwear
Thermal long sleeve shirts
Waterproof rain jacket & rain pants
Insulated winter coat
Insulated snow pants
Winter hat, gloves & scarf
Wool sweaters
Thermal socks
Gear
Hiking boots
Pair of hiking poles
Gators (to cover ankles from dust)
Headlamp & extra batteries
High capacity power bank
Sunglasses
Sunblock
Lip balm with SPF
CamelBak for water
Thermal water bottle for hot drinks
Hand and toe warmers
Toilet paper
Hand sanitizer
Facial wipes
Diamox (altitude sickness medication)
Insulated sleeping bag
Backpack or Daypack
Pillow or neck cushion for sleeping
Hiking mattress (typically included)
Tent (typically included)
Snacks
Trail mix or granola
Chocolates (m&ms & candy bar)
Dried ginger candies
Peppermint hard candies
Ginger tea
Costs & Tipping
Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro is expensive! Costs are not always clear when booking tours. Make sure to understand all costs and fees ahead of time.
Costs & Fees. We booked a “budget” hike for $1,500 USD per person. This covered entry permits, food and some equipment. An additional $700 USD per person was paid in person to cover crew wages.
Tipping. Providing gratuities is a standard practice and expected after hiking Mount Kilimanjaro. Below is a breakdown of the expected amounts to pay per group. Individual tips will be less depending on group size, crew size and number of days hiking. Tips are given to the lead guide, announced and distributed on the last day of the hike.
Lead Guides: $20-$25 per day
Assistant Guides: $15-$20 per day
Cooks: $10-$20 per day
Porters: $8-$10 per day
Specialty Porters (Waiter, Summit Porter, Toilet Porter): $10-$12 per day
Swahili Words & Phrases
Swahili is the local language in Tanzania. We learned several basic words and phrases from our guides and porters while hiking Mount Kilimanjaro.
Pole Pole. Slowly slowly or take it easy. It’s the speed and theme on the mountain often repeated by guides, porters and trekkers.
Hakuna Matata. The phrase made world famous by the Lion King. It’s a real Swahili phrase meaning no worries or no problems. It’s often used to let guides know you’re doing okay.
Jambo. A formal greeting meaning hello.
Mambo. An informal greeting meaning hello or how are you?
Poa or Poa Poa. A common response to Mambo, meaning good or well.
Habari Asubuhi. Good morning.
Lala Salama. Good night or sleep well.
Kwa Heri. Goodbye.
Asante. Thank you.
Asante Sana. Thank you very much.
Karibu. Welcome or you’re welcome.
Elsewhere in Tanzania
From the slopes of Kilimanjaro to the wildlife of the Serengeti and the historic shores of Zanzibar, discover more of Tanzania's most iconic experiences through these travel guides:
Tanzania Safari Guide: Serengeti, Ngorongoro & Wilderness Camping. Journey through Tanzania's vast landscapes where wildlife and migrating herds roam across endless plains and ancient calderas alongside remote safari camps.
Zanzibar Travel Guide: Stone Town, Beaches & Swahili Culture. Escape to Zanzibar where historic Stone Town, fragrant spice gardens, white sand beaches and turquoise waters bring together centuries of history, culture and island life.
For Next Time…
Though we don’t expect to hike Mount Kilimanjaro again, we learned about Tanzania’s Mt. Meru, another hike-able volcano in the Arusha National Park. It’s the country’s second tallest mountain, after Mount Kilimanjaro. Its summit reaches heights of 4,566 meters (14,980 feet). It can be hiked in 3-4 days. The route combines elements of a safari with bush camping and mountain hiking.
Tanzania Safari Guide: Serengeti, Ngorongoro & Wilderness Camping
Journey through Tanzania's vast landscapes where wildlife and migrating herds roam across endless plains and ancient calderas alongside remote safari camps.
Tanzanian Safari
Tanzania is the land of safaris and African adventures! Its vast nature reserves and national parks are home to scenic landscapes teeming with wildlife, herds of animals and endangered species. We spent four days roadtripping on a safari across the country visiting Tarangire National Park, The Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater.
Tarangire National Park
Tarangire National Park is a popular safari park home to parades of African elephants and ancient baobab trees. We joined a half day game drive through the park on the first day of our safari.
Tarangire Landscapes. Dusty roads lead through the scenic landscapes of Tarangire National Park. The terrain is defined by massive baobab trees, umbrella shaped acacia trees, dry grasslands and towering termite mounds. The baobab trees are easily recognizable by their massive trunks and large branching limbs. Some live to be several hundred years old.
Wild Animals. The Tarangire is plentiful with African animals and wildlife. Small herds of wildebeests, zebra and giraffes gathered together to feed on trees and grasses. A pair of cape buffalo raised their heads from the bush, showing off their massive horns. Warthogs kneeled in the savanna, nibbling on dry grasses as they scurried around. Hornbill toucans and vibrant starlings hopped between tree branches and fluttered away. Waterbuck antelopes gazed back at us through our binoculars. Baboons and mischievous monkeys sat along roadsides and picnic areas waiting for opportunities to steal food.
African Elephants. Large parades of African elephants roam freely around the Tarangire. Soon after entering the park, we spotted over 20 elephants pulling down branches from acacia trees and feeding on grasses. We spotted a second herd marching through a valley. Baby elephants walked closely alongside their parents. They later crossed a river as we watched from a picnic area at lunch. We parked along the dirt road as a third parade crossed in front of us. A dozen elephants trotted by like a slow moving stampede, raising their trunks and rocking their heads as they passed.
Twiga Campsite & Lodge. A budget hotel with a small campground, communal restrooms, buffet restaurant and outdoor pool. Three rows of safari style tents line the lawn in front of the hotel. Inside are Maasai woven bed cushions and standard sleeping bags. We camped here overnight after exploring Tarangire National Park.
Serengeti National Park
The Serengeti is one of Africa’s most famed national parks and wildlife reserves. Its vast savannas are home to a large population of big cats, predators and African animals. We spent two days on safari in the park, camping overnight in the bush.
Serengeti Landscapes. Vast savannas and dry grasslands stretch across the horizon of the Serengeti, occasionally interrupted by the lone acacia tree, termite mound or kopje. Safari vehicles zoom down dirt roads, leaving clouds of dust in their wake. Fiery sunsets cast shades of magenta and orange across the sky as silhouettes of acacia trees contrast the horizon.
Kopjes. Dramatic granite outcrops that rise from the savanna like an island in a sea of grass. They’re also known as “pride rocks” and serve as important habitats for big cats like lions, cheetahs and leopards.
Lions. Lions reign in the Serengeti! Three greeted us just before entering the Nkuyu Gate. One patrolled the roadway, another shaded under a bridge and the third drank from a puddle beside our Land Cruiser, its orange fur and fluffy mane within reaching distance. Several lions napped under a lone acacia tree in the middle of the savanna. Four lionesses prowled through the golden grasses. A majestic lion posed for photos, its amber eyes stared back at us with a genuine fearsomeness.
Cheetahs. Cheetahs are one of the most beautiful and powerful animals on the savanna. We encountered a trio napping and watching the horizon for approaching prey.
Leopards. Leopards are one of the most difficult animals to spot on the savanna. Our guide spotted one, very well camouflaged and perched on a kopje. To our surprise, two cute leopard cubs appeared and began licking the larger one before walking off together.
Hyena. A solo hyena blocked the road as night fell. It yawned, showing off its pointed teeth before stretching and walking off into the sunset.
Herds & Wildlife. Herds of impala, gazelle and zebra roam freely across the dry plains of the Serengeti. Rarer sights were wildebeest and hartebeest, having migrated on their annual migration to the Maasai Mara in Kenya. Towers of giraffe and parades of elephants march across the savanna in search of food and water. Though more difficult to see, small game like warthogs, jackals and mongoose forage in the low grasses.
Seronera River. A narrow river flowing through the south eastern Serengeti. Its lush banks are an oasis for Nile crocodile and large families of bathing hippos. Hundreds of hippos soak with their heads and backs above the water, huffing, puffing and snorting after fully submerging. A rare sight was an 8 ft long python slowly slithering across the ground not far from a large crocodile.
Pimbi Public Campsite. Camping in the Serengeti is one of the most exciting ways to experience the national park. The Pimbi Public Campsite is located in the middle of the Serengeti, completely exposed to the grassy plains and animals that roam them. We camped in tents for one night, arriving shortly after sunset. The cackle of hyenas could be heard somewhere in the distance. The roars of lions reverberated across the savanna at night. We woke up to two leopards returning from their hunt, climbing onto the rocks less than 300 meters from our camp.
Ngorongoro Conservation Area
Ngorongoro is a lush conservation area famed for its volcanic caldera, large population of predators and variety of birdlife. We camped one night on the crater rim before descending into its expansive floor for a morning game drive.
The Ngorongoro Crater. The crater is Africa’s largest caldera and the heart of the Ngorongoro Reserve. Its forested walls, grassy floor and alkaline lake are a cradle for life and host to countless species. Formed by the collapse of a prehistoric volcano, its walls tower an average of 2,000 feet above the crater floor. An observation deck looks into its vast expanse from the rim.
Lions & Cats. Lions are the primary predator in the Ngorongoro Crater. We spotted a lioness and her three cubs walking along the roadside. A very majestic male lion with a dark mane stood in the grasses, looking across the landscape. A little serval slept in the dry grasses and morning sunlight.
Predators & Scavengers. The Ngorongoro Crater is famed for its high concentration of predators and scavengers. A pride of several lions took down a juvenile wildebeest minutes before we reached the crater floor. The lions sat gnawing on its carcass, bones and skull. A pack of hyenas surrounded the lions, waiting in the grasses for a chance at stealing scraps. Two jackals stared on as a flock of vultures flew overhead waiting for leftovers. Further into the crater, a pack of hyenas feasted on a dead hippo, pulling intestines from the animal’s carcass.
Lake Magadi. An alkaline lake in the Ngorongoro Crater, home to a variety of aquatic birds like pink flamingos, blue herons, yellow billed storks, cormorants, egrets and Egyptian Ibis. African crowned cranes, large ostrich, secretary birds and kori bustard forage in the surrounding grasses. Families of hippos lounge in the shallow waters while cape buffalo gather in the marshes.
Herds of Animals. Herds are confined to the crater year round due to its vast scale and range of ecosystems. Wildebeest, zebra, gazelle, buffalo and warthogs roam freely in the grasslands. Elephants and giraffes wander the forested crater walls and rim.
Simba Campsite A. A large campground on the Ngorongoro Crater Rim. It’s popular with both tenters and camper vans, offering amenities like shared kitchens, restrooms, hot showers, fire pits and a camp store. The campsite is surrounded by lush forest home to wild animals. An elephant walked along the camp’s perimeter, a herd of zebra grazed outside of our tents and a tower of giraffes sat across a distant hill.
Good to Know. The elevation of the crater rim sits at an average elevation of 7,500 feet above sea level. Its altitude results in cooler temperatures, especially at night.
Maasai Village. Rural Tanzania is home to many African tribes, particularly the Maasai. They live in small communities comprised of cylindrical mud huts topped with conical thatched roofs. Many wear traditional robes, distinguished by their color and pattern. Maasai men shepherd cows, goats and sheep between fields. The women and children operate roadside stands selling woven baskets, bush honey and safari style paintings. There is a high concentration of Maasai villages on the route through Ngorongoro to the Serengeti.
Suricata Safaris
We booked our 4 day, 3 night group camping safari in Tarangire National Park, The Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater with Suricata Safaris on Viator. It included all park fees, camping equipment, meals, water and transportation in a 4x4 Safari Land Cruiser.
Where to Stay
The city of Arusha is a hub for Tanzanian safaris, located within a few hours of some of the country’s most famed reserves and national parks. It's common to stay here for at least a day before and after a safari.
Serengeti Villa. A boutique eco hotel in Arusha with tropical gardens, safari style rooms and tribal furniture. The villa serves delicious Swahili meals and local beers, hosts nightly bonfires and offers services like laundry and luggage storage. Our only regret was not staying longer. Reserve on Booking.
Location Specifics
When to Visit. The dry season, from July to October, is the best time of year to visit Tanzania for a safari.
Dust. The savanna can be extremely dusty during the dry season. Bring wipes to clean off with and wear clothes you don’t mind getting dirty.
Binoculars. Bring a pair of good binoculars to view distant animals and close up details of nearby game. We bought a pair of Nikon Monarch M5 with 10x42 magnification.
Camera. Phones can be great for social media photos, however a professional camera is much better for detailed and close up photos.
Tipping. Plan to tip safari guides between $10-$20 USD per day per person.
Swahili Words & Phrases
Swahili is the local language in Tanzania. We learned several basic words and phrases from our guides.
Jambo. A formal greeting meaning hello.
Mambo. An informal greeting meaning hello or how are you?
Poa or Poa Poa. A common response to Mambo, meaning good or well.
Habari Asubuhi. Good morning.
Lala Salama. Good night or sleep well.
Kwa Heri. Goodbye.
Asante. Thank you.
Asante Sana. Thank you very much.
Karibu. Welcome or you’re welcome.
Hakuna Matata. The phrase made world famous by the Lion King. It’s a real Swahili phrase meaning no worries or no problems.
Elsewhere in Tanzania
From the wildlife spectacles of the Serengeti and Ngorongoro to the summit of Kilimanjaro and the beaches of Zanzibar, discover more of Tanzania beyond the safari circuit through these travel guides:
Zanzibar Travel Guide: Stone Town, Beaches & Swahili Culture. Escape to Zanzibar where historic Stone Town, fragrant spice gardens, white sand beaches and turquoise waters bring together centuries of history, culture and island life.
Mount Kilimanjaro Guide: Lemosho Route, Mountain Camping & Uhuru Peak. Trek through Mount Kilimanjaro's changing landscapes where alpine scenery, mountain camps and summit trails lead to Africa's highest point at Uhuru Peak.
For Next Time…
We spent four days in the back of a Toyota Land Cruiser exploring Tanzania’s savannas, craters and national parks. Next time we return, we plan to experience a safari on foot and by air.
Walking Safari. Guided safaris led on foot by rangers, lead visitors through the Arusha National Park to see wildlife up close and personal. Unlike multi day safaris, the park offers full and half day experiences.
Hot Air Balloon Safari. Hot air balloons float through the early morning skies of the Serengeti. Once in the park, tour operators offer aerial safaris of its vast grasslands and kopjes.