Hanoi, Vietnam

Hanoi, Vietnam

Hanoi is a sprawling metropolis abound with rich cultural experiences, a storied history and modern appeal. The capital city dates back to ancient times, is home to landmark sights and sacred temples. Paper lanterns and communist flags often decorate its chaotic streets as people speed by on scooters. Bustling night markets, sidewalk cafes and street food vendors lure in locals and visitors alike. Nearby natural wonders offer a peaceful escape from the city’s lively pace. 

Old Quarter Streets

Hanoi’s Old Quarter is one of the most lively neighborhoods of the city with several “themed” streets. It’s popular for its night markets, nightlife, food scene, train streets and cultural products. 

Hang Buom (Nightlife Street).  An incredibly vibrant, loud and chaotic nightlife street  with dozens of bars catering to all crowds of people. We bar hopped among the chaos, enjoying a bottle of soju at street level and cocktails from a balcony overlooking it. 

Hang Dao (Night Market Street).  A street with a nightly market starting at 7pm. Tents of vendors sell clothing, jewelry, knock off hand bags and various goods while food carts fry and grill types of Vietnamese street food.

Hang Ma (Festival Street).  An street with several stores selling decorations for celebrations like Tet or Lunar New Year. Shops stand out with the red, yellow and golden glow of paper lanterns, tasseled ornaments, begging cats, dragon puppets, red envelopes and incense sticks.

Hang Gai (Silk Street).  The silk district with several shops and tailors selling silk textiles, clothing and accessories.

Tong Duy Tan (Food Street).  A street lined with restaurants selling Vietnamese dishes, vegetarian meals and various forms of hot pot. Twinkle lights and paper lanterns decorate the trees above the street as Moto bikes zip by and locals eat.

Cha Ca Street.  A street named after Hanoi’s most famous local dish, Cha Ca. Several restaurants prepare and serve it, one of the most well known is Cha Ca La Vong. It’s the only item on the menu and they’ve had over 150 years to perfect their recipe. 

Phung Hung (Train Street).  A narrow railway sandwiched between a canyon of buildings lined with dozens of cafes and bars serving Vietnamese coffees and beers. The street is covered in a mangle of string lights, colorful lanterns and illuminated signs with track side patios and second floor balconies. It’s easily one of the most exhilarating streets in the old town. Hundreds of people flock here to the to experience the train rushing past during an adrenaline packed minute. 

Pro Tip.  Ask any cafe staff when the next train is scheduled and the direction it’s traveling from. Return at least one hour before to get a good spot. Visit at night when the atmosphere is bright and lively. 

Good to Know.  There are a lot of scammy people blocking access to the train street. They will try to charge an admission or force you to sit at their cafe. Ignore them and push past saying you have a reservation elsewhere. 

Tau Khan Thien (Train Street South).  An alternate train street nestled tightly between an alleyway of small buildings. Though designed for tourists, it’s lesser visited and feels more local. Many cafes are operated out of people’s homes while older Vietnamese women watch to make sure no one gets hurt. As the train approaches, stop keepers close up awnings, pack away furniture and instruct people to tuck up against the walls. It’s thrilling as the train approaches and passes with barely any clearance between us and it. 

Pro Tip.  Order a beer and place the bottle cap on the tracks for a flattened souvenir. 

Temples and Sights 

Temple of Literature.  An ancient Confucian temple dedicated to education and the development of talent. It was created by past emperors as a place for the most revered scholars to study and take a series of exams. Its symmetrical design is very symbolic. A central path suggests the path to enlightenment while a series of gates signifies the advance of knowledge. Today, students come to the grounds to mediate, study and pray for knowledge, good grades and their future. 

• Van Mieu Gate.  A three tiered entrance gate to the temple grounds adorned with motifs of dragons. It leads to a courtyard with a grassy lawn, sculpted bushes and pools with koi fish. 

• Khue Van Pagoda.  A red painted wooden pagoda held up by four stone columns representing the elements. It features designs of dragons and a circle symbolizing the infinite nature of enlightenment. It is considered the symbol of Hanoi. 

• Well of Heavenly Clarity.  A courtyard with a large koi pond at its center. It’s flanked by The Stelae of Doctors, a series of pavilions housing statues of turtles with stelae placed on top. Each stelae is inscribed with writings from pervious royal scholars.

• Courtyard of the Sages.  A brick paved courtyard used for royal exams. Its sides are flanked by planters with bonsai trees and former class rooms, now a museum dedicated to the history of the complex and its scholars.

• House of Ceremonies.  A pavilion in the Courtyard of the Sages with two large dragon sculptures centered on top of the terracotta tiled roof.

• Sanctuary of Confucius.  A temple dedicated to Confucius. Inside are statues of him and alters with burning sticks of intense, offerings of citrus fruits, cookies and flowers.

• Thai Hoc Hall.  A recently rebuilt pagoda dedicated to the emperors that founded The Temple of Literature. Inside of its two floors are statues of the emperors and alters to make offerings. 

Ancient Citadel.  The royal grounds of Vietnam’s ancient capital. Much of it was leveled during the French colonial period. Original stone dragon steps lead to where to former royal palace once stood. A museum houses artifacts discovered at archeological dig sights including ornate terracotta roof tiles, cornices of dragons, porcelain dishes and woodblocks used for printing. Exposed dig sights, piles of stacked bricks and terracotta roof tiles recovered from them can be seen throughout the grounds. 

Hoan Kiem Lake. A sacred lake in the old town home to ancient temples and the Legend of the Sword Lake Turtle. The legend says that a golden turtle appeared from the lake and lent a sword to the emperor to defeat an invading army. On weekends the surrounding road becomes a walking street with performers and street food vendors. 

Ngoc Son Temple.  An island temple on Hoan Kiem Lake reachable by a red wooden foot bridge. The temple is a very sacred place for the Vietnamese with multiple shrines dedicated to Confucius. It houses the preserved remains of two possibly extinct giant turtles that once lived in the lake. 

Ba Dinh Square.  A wide road used for parades and ceremonies surrounded by government and communist buildings including the National Assembly, Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, Presidential Palace, Communist Party Headquarters and Government Headquarters. Many are well guarded and forbidden to take photos of. 

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum.  A communist style mausoleum housing the embalmed body of Ho Chi Minh, the founder of modern day Vietnam. 

One Pillar Pagoda.  A pagoda attached to a singular round column in a the middle of a koi and lily pond. Steps walk up to it where there is a shrine for prayers and offerings.

O Quan Chuong (Old East Gate). The only remaining city gate from ancient Hanoi. Its arched red brick and stone gate has a small pagoda on top. It’s only large enough for scooters and pedestrians to pass through. 

Quan Thanh Temple.  A Taoist temple dating back to the founding of ancient Hanoi over 1,000 years ago. Inside is a giant bronze statue of Tao and elaborate altars with offerings. The temple’s walls, doors and columns are decorated in gold painted motifs of clouds and dragons, calligraphy inlaid with mother of pearl and painted reliefs of white tigers, water dragons, cranes and flowering cherry blossom trees.

Things to Do

Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre.  Vietnamese water puppets are a traditional form of entertainment and story telling dating back hundreds of years. At the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre, live musicians, singers and puppeteers put on a beautiful performance depicting over a dozen scenes from Vietnamese folklore and legends. The puppets splash around on stage (aka a pool) against the back drop of a pagoda, disappearing behind a bamboo curtain when scenes change. We watched water dragons slinking back and forth, a comedic fishing scene, phoenixes laying and hatching an egg and Confucius ceremonies. 

Pro Tip.  There are multiple shows daily running from afternoon to evening. Arrive at the theater in the morning to buy tickets. The best seats are in rows A, B and C. 

Good to Know.  Be considerate and avoid taking repeated photos. It’s distracting to the people behind you. 

Visit the Incense Village.  Burning incense is a daily part of life in Vietnam. It’s commonly used in temples, restaurants and people’s homes. We visited one village where it’s produce, getting to make our own. We saw how raw bamboo is purged of insects, sun dried and then splintered by hand into thin sticks. The sticks are then hand dipped into a vat of red dye to give them their characteristic color. Once dyed, they’re fed into a machine that packs wet incense powder onto them. The incense powder we used was made from ground cinnamon and bamboo. Afterwards, we visited an “Instagram courtyard” covered in bundles of red incense sticks with areas for photo ops. We booked our tour with Tinny Travel on Viator. 

Learn about Conical Hat Making.  Conical hats, called Nón lá in Vietnamese are commonly worn by women to protect from the sun and rain. On our Incense Village Tour, we visited a family home where they’re made, getting to see the stages and process involved in making a hat from start to finish. We painted our own hats inspired by the Temple of Literature and the One Pillar Pagoda. 

Shop at the Thien Thuat Market.  A farmers market lining the curbs of Thien Thuat Street and the adjacent roads in Hanoi’s Old Town. Local merchants display baskets and plastic bins with a variety of goods including meats, seafood, vegetables, fruits, herbs, dried goods and noodles. We shopped here for groceries to cook several of our own meals. 

Pro Tip.  Ask around and haggle over prices with vendors before buying. 

Ha Long Bay

Ha Long Bay is one of Vietnam’s many natural wonders and was a highlight of our trip. It’s famed for its hundreds of towering stone islands that sharply rise from the water. Their sheer faces and craggily slopes are covered in patches of foliage. Some are home to caves, coves and beaches. At the time, clouds gave the islands a mystifying appearance. The best way to experience the bay is by boat. 

Sung Sot Cave.  The largest cave in Ha Long Bay. A staircase leads up a karst island to the mouth of the cave. Inside are a series of chambers, each grander than the next. The cave walls are covered in stalactites that drip down to the floor. The ceilings are sculpted into a smooth and rippled pattern from lapping water. The final chamber is absolutely massive. A trail meanders deep into its interior past a large stone column before looping back out. 

Ti Top Island.  A popular island with a yellow sand beach and mountaintop lookout. A 400 step staircase leads to a pagoda with panoramic views of the bay’s karst islands, blue tinted water and anchored ships. It was too cold to swim at the time but we enjoyed the beach and scenery from shore.

Hang Luon Cove. A cove in the middle of a karst island, only accessible through a shallow cave. We kayaked through the cave and around the cove where we were surrounded by steep cliffs and dark green water. We spotted wild monkeys sitting and running along the rocks. 

Le Journey.  We booked an overnight tour of Ha Long Bay with a company called Le Journey. Their beautiful wooden ship has private cabins, a communal dining room and a rooftop deck and bar. The energetic crew kept us and other guests entertained with multiple excursions and activities like squid fishing, a cooking lesson and karaoke. The chef prepared delicious meals including local dishes like Ha Long Bay squid, jellyfish salad and fried rice. The tour included transportation between our stay in Hanoi and the Tuan Chau International Marina about 2 hours 30 minutes away. 

Good to Know.  The sights we visited are some of the most popular in Ha Long Bay. Many tour companies follow the same schedule meaning that hundreds of tourists will descend upon them at the same time. Though crowded, the nature is no less beautiful and time on the boat offers a quiet reprieve. 

Vietnamese Street Food

Street food is popular across Vietnam, especially at night markets. We tried several dishes and treats along the streets of Hanoi. 

• Keo Cu Đo (Rice Paper Candy).  A molasses-like paste mixed with peanuts and sandwiched between two rice paper wafers 

• Bao (Steamed Buns).  Steams bread rolls often shaped like lotus flower. A popular way to eat them is deep fried with a drizzle of sweetened condensed milk. 

• Banh Tieu (Vietnamese Donuts).  Tiny dough balls covered in sesame seeds or sugar glazed and filled with mung bean paste.

• Bánh Rán (Sesame Balls).  Deep fried gelatinous rice balls filled with sweetened bean paste and coated in toasted sesame seeds.

• Banh Dong Xu (Golden Coin Cake).  A sweet pancake filled with mozzarella cheese and griddled in a mold of a Korean coin. it’s a popular street food, often served hot for its long stringy cheese pull.

• Khoai Tay Loc Xoay (Tornado Potatoes).  Hand-cut slices of skewered and twice fried potatoes resembling a vortex. They’re often covered in mayo and sweet chili sauce.

• Bach Tuoc Nuong (Grilled Octopus).  Skewered and barbecued octopus legs cooked over a coal grill.  

• Mực Khô Nướng (Grilled Dried Squid).  A whole dried squid cooked over a charcoal grill. It has a jerky-like texture and is served with sweet chili sauce. 

Vietnamese Cuisine 

• Banh Mi.  A beloved Vietnamese sandwich famed for its baguette style bread baked with a crunchy exterior and pillowy interior. It’s traditionally stuffed with cilantro, cucumber, carrots and meat or tofu.  

• Pho.  A Vietnamese soup made with a base savory broth boiled with warm spices like star anise, cinnamon and ginger. It’s served with rice noodles, vegetables, meat or tofu. 

• Rice Noodles.  Thin and sticky white noodles made from rice flour. They’re served in many dishes or on the side. 

• Cha Ca.  A beloved local dish is made from snakehead fish marinated in turmeric and galangal and sautéed with a mixture of fresh herbs including turmeric, cilantro, dill, spring onions and garlic. It’s served alongside rice noodles, peanuts and chili peppers. 

• Jellyfish Salad.  A salad made from thinly sliced strips of jellyfish mixed with pickled carrots, cucumber, onion in a soy sauce and sesame oil mixture. It has a characteristically crunchy texture and umami forward taste. 

Vietnamese Coffee 

Coffee culture is a popular part of daily life in Vietnam. Street cafes with tiny folding chairs and stackable plastic furnishings commonly spill out onto sidewalks. Groups of locals sit around sipping on their preferred style of coffee often alongside a glass of hot green tea. Typical coffees are: 

• Vietnamese Coffee.  The most popular preparation style, mixed with sweetened condensed milk and served hot or iced. 

• Egg Coffee.  A creamy coffee mixed with whipped egg yolk and sweetened condensed milk. 

• Salt Coffee.  A sweet and savory coffee mixed with salted cream and often dusted in cocoa powder. 

• Coconut Coffee. A thick and sweet coffee mixed with coconut cream. 

• Three in One.  An instant coffee mixture made with coffee crystals, powdered cream and sugar. 

Places to Eat and Drink

Lan Ong Restaurant.  An elevated restaurant serving contemporary adaptations of Vietnamese cuisine. Dishes are beautifully presented and the atmosphere is warm and inviting. Try the Cha Ca served in a clay pot over a wood burning flame, the jellyfish salad made with green papaya & grapefruit, the seafood curry made with prawns & crab claws and for dessert, the sweet potato creme brûlée. 

Cha Ca La Vong.  An extremely local restaurant on the second floor of a historic home, serving Hanoi’s famed dish Cha Ca. The cook brings out a personal grill, pan with the sizzling fish and bowl of herbs. It’s all sautéed together until blanched and aromatic.

Coffee A.  A cafe on a corner in the old quarter with classic Vietnamese coffees. Sit at the wrap around balcony on the second floor overlooking the chaotic street and intersection below. 

Hoangs.  A restaurant with Vietnamese and South East Asian rice and noodles dishes. Try the vegetable fried rice and stir fried rice noodles with seafood.

Tet Restaurant.  A vegetarian Vietnamese restaurant with national and local dishes like pho and fried spring rolls made with fresh vegetables and house made tempe. 

Com Tam Lam Sai Ghenh.  An unassuming restaurant on the Tong Duy Tan Food Street with Vietnamese dishes and hot pot. We shared a seafood hot pot made in a boiling pot of savory broth with a mixture of fresh clams, squid, prawns, tofu, greens and ramen. 

Kem Dua Coffee (Tower Cafe).  A narrow multi-floor cafe with Vietnamese coffees and views of Ho Tay Lake. After climbing 6 floors for a seat, we nicknamed it tower cafe. 

Givral French Bakery.  A chain bakery with French patisserie. We stopped in for a slice of pineapple roll cake and a miniature chantilly cream bouche. 

Ta Ta Cafe.  A cafe with artisan coffees hidden on the second floor of a dilapidated French colonial building. A giant tree grows out of its yellow painted facade while a sign reading “coffee bar” leads up a rickety wooden staircase to its entrance. 

Where to Stay

We stayed on the second floor of an Airbnb in the Old Quarter. It’s near many of the famous streets, central sights, sidewalk cafes and bars we visited. The room was spacious with a balcony overlooking the street, a shared kitchen and roof top washer/dryer.

Getting Around

Grab.  A taxi hailing app similar to Uber or Lyft. Taxis were readily available on the app and cheap to get around the city or from the airport. 

On Foot.  The city is walkable however sidewalks are often blocked by street restaurants, parked scooters and merchandise from shops. Be cautious when crossing roads, watching for cars and scooters. 

Good to Know

Cash vs Card.  Most businesses and vendors are cash only. Clothing shops often accept card with a 1-3% fee. 

Vegetarian Food.  Vegetarian dishes are popular and easy to spot on menus. The word “Chay” after any dish means it’s vegetarian. 

Safety.  Vietnam is generally a safe country to visit. The ancient town of Hoi An is no exception. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Vietnamese are openly welcoming of LGBTQ+ travelers. When noticing our wedding rings, local women would ask how long we’ve been married and call us a happy couple.

Language.  Vietnamese and English are widely spoken, seen on street signs and restaurant menus across the country. That said, it’s still good to know a few Vietnamese phrases.

• Hello = Xin chào (Sing-Chow)

• Thank you = Cảm ơn (Com-Un)

• Good bye = Tạm biệt (Tam-Be-Et)

• See you later = Hẹn gặp lại (Hen-Gap-Lie)

Local Customs

• Take shoes off when visiting homes and most temples. 

• Dress modestly when visiting temples. No hats, shorts or sleeveless shirts are allowed. 

• Hand things to people with two hands, especially cash, credit cards or the bill.

• Avoid pointing at anything or anyone using an index finger. Use your full hand instead. 

• Showing the bottom of your feet or shoe to someone is considered extremely rude or offensive, especially at temples. 

When to Visit

There really is no “low” season in Vietnam. It’s a popular destination at all times of year. We visited in mid February, after the “high” season which runs from November to January. The weather was chilly, cloudy and rainy. According to several locals, this was atypical for this time of year. Thankfully it was not a deterrent to enjoying our time in this beautiful city. 

Elsewhere in Vietnam 

We spent nearly a month traveling across Vietnam, exploring its lively cities and beautiful landscapes. Along the way, we immersed ourselves in the country’s rich culture, history and craftsmanship while savoring Vietnamese cuisine, coffee and street food. Visit the ancient town of Hoi An for Vietnamese street food and the nightly lantern festival. Row through the karst mountains and caves of Ninh Binh past lush rice paddies and historic temples. Get lost in the vibrant city and nightlife of Saigon.

For Next Time…

Vietnam is a massive country with so much breathing nature. When we return, we have several sights in the north and middle of the country we hope to visit. 

Camping inside Hang Son Doong.  A massive cave system with underground campsites, rivers and hiking trails. It can be expensive and difficult to reach but is top of our list for our next trip to Vietnam. 

Bai Tu Long Bay.  An alternate to Ha Long Bay with many similar rock formations and islands. It’s said to be less busy and equally if not more beautiful. 

Mu Cang Chai Rice Terrace.  Sprawling rice terraces in a mountainous valley about 300km northwest of Hanoi. 

Ban Gioc Waterfalls.  A series of cascading waterfalls in the jungle on the boarder of Vietnam and China. 

Hoi An, Vietnam

Hoi An, Vietnam

Hoi An is a historic and bustling Vietnamese city famed for its culture, handmade goods and markets. Paper lanterns hang above streets between wooden and yellow painted houses. Vendors sell produce in baskets along the curbs. Locals wearing conical hats zip by on scooters. The smell of incense and street food wafts through the air. Ornate temples welcome visitors and worshippers. Makers work away at craft studios and measure customers at custom tailoring shops. 

The Ancient Town

The Ancient Town is the epicenter of history, culture and activity in Hoi An. Its old houses, ornate temples and bridges are discoverable when walking down the narrow streets and alleyways. Colorful lanterns and banners of the Vietnamese and Communist flags hang overhead. Shops sell locally produced silks, leather goods, linen outfits, custom clothing and knock off name brands. Restaurants and cafes spill out onto the sidewalks serving Vietnamese dishes and coffee. The town comes to life at night for the daily lantern festival, night markets and street food. 

Hoi An Ancient Town Ticket.  We were required to buy a ticket to enter the Ancient Town. It allowed us access to 5 different sights over three days. Occasionally, officials will ask to see and scan the ticket when entering town. They can be purchased at most cultural sights. 

Ancient Town Waterfront.  A promenade lined with historic buildings, bridges, shops, restaurants and cafes with curbside patios overlooking the river. Tour guides offer sightseeing tours on colorful boats. At night, it becomes the sight of the daily lantern festival.

Ancient Town Sights

Japanese Bridge.  A Japanese style wooden bridge and gate to the Ancient Town. It’s painted red with an ornate tiled roof depicting a traditional merchant boat. Inside is an arched walkway and a small temple. The bridge is featured on the 20,000 Dong banknote. 

Cam Nam Bridge.  A landmark bridge connecting the Ancient Town with An Hoi. It lights up at night and it a popular spot view the colorful lights, lanterns and boats during the lantern festival.

Hoi An Old Houses.  Dark wooden and yellow painted houses with mossy clay tiled roofs characteristic of the Ancient Town. Many houses date back hundreds of years, some still home to the original families and others are now museums. 

• Quan Thang Old House.  A historic merchant house from the 17th century. Its architectural style is recognized as one of the most beautiful homes in Hoi An with its single floor design, wooden facade and arched and clay tiled roof.

• Phung Hung Old House.  A two floor merchant house with Japanese and Chinese architectural influences, tall ironwood beams, a second floor balcony, a clay tiled roof and mother of pearl inlaid furniture. 

• Tran Family Chapel.  A historic home belonging to the same family for over 200 years. Inside is a chapel dedicated to their ancestors. It has an alter with photos and drawings of deceased family members surrounded by paper lanterns, flowers and citrus offerings. 

Temples and Pagodas.  The Ancient Town has several temples and pagodas where people worship, meditate and make offerings. 

• Phuoc Kien Hoi Quan.  A temple dedicated to a sea goddess with an ornate pagoda style entry gate, sculptures of scaled fish and a fountain with a dragon above koi pond. Inside, sculptures of Confucius sit behind gold and red altars as smoldering coils of spiraled incense hang from the ceiling. 

• Ong Pagoda.  An ancient pagoda and temple dating back over 1,000 years with traditional designs like red painted wooden columns, paper lanterns, an altar and a sculptural koi pond. It’s a quiet and peaceful place to visit. The smell of incense, the sound water circulating and echo of the gong quickly become therapeutic.

• The Ba Mu Temple Gate.  A 600 year old temple gate covered in reliefs and carvings of flowers, calligraphy and geometric designs. It has a circular portal at its center and doorways leading through it. It used to connect two temples that no longer exist today. 

Hoi An Traditional Art Performance House.  A historic theater offering 30 minute cultural performances and shows. We listened to musicians play flutes, drums and strings, saw dancers perform graceful acts in traditional outfits and were introduced to the game of Bai Choi.

The Lantern Festival

A nightly festival held along the waterfront with thousands of glowing and candlelit lanterns illuminating the Ancient Town. Delicate flames of paper lanterns flicker as they float along the water. Small row boats are illuminated by orbs of light. The water shimmers with the reflection of colorful lights dancing on it. Vendors offer boat rides and sell paper lanterns. We were rowed along the canal and released a paper lantern into the water, each making a wish and relating positive thoughts into the world. 

Bai Choi

Bai Choi is a Vietnamese folk game that combines various art forms including calligraphy, music and dance. 

The Rules. Bai Choi is a group game, where huts of players compete against each other. Each hut is given a paddle with 3 columns of calligraphy on it. As the game begins, a “chanter” pulls a bamboo card from a basket decorated in a singular column of calligraphy. The “chanter” then weaves the calligraphy into a song and holds it up for players to match. A hut is given a yellow flag each time they match a column. Once one hut matches all 3 columns, the game ends. 

Bai Choi Hoi An.  A Bai Choi theater with nightly games. We arrived early and sat in a bamboo hut waiting for the game to start. We purchased two paddles from the “chanter” as more players arrived. A band began performing as the charter pulled the first card. As the game went on, we matched two of the three columns before another hut won. It was an incredibly fun and lively game! 

An Hoi Island

An Hoi is an island neighborhood directly across the river from the Ancient Town. Many streets are draped with colorful lanterns and banners of the Vietnamese and Communist flags. It’s a popular place to stay due to its proximity to the Ancient Town with a large number guest houses and hotels. The waterfront becomes a hub for nightlife with animated bars, street food vendors, a night market and the lantern festival. 

Markets

Nguyen Hoang Street & Night Market.  A street dissecting the center of An Hoi with lantern shops, a vibrant night market and street food vendors. As the lantern festival starts, merchants set up carts stocked with clothes, jewelry, accessories and souvenirs in the center of the street. It’s the best street to place to try all manner of Vietnamese street food, especially near the waterfront. We tried several dishes two nights in a row.  

Cho Tan An Market.  Also called the Tiger Market, Cho Tan An is a traditional Vietnamese farmers market with tables of vendors set up under a canopy of tin roofs and tarp covered tents. Cash in hand, we visited buying groceries for the week. Baskets are filled with vegetables, fruits and herbs including dragon fruit, bok choy, lychee, rose apples, durian, napa cabbage, rambutan and basil. Living and freshly caught seafood like crabs, shrimp, fish, eel and clams are displayed on tables. Butchers slice meats, pluck ducks and shave pig skin. Elsewhere, merchants sell quail eggs, buckets of tofu, piles of rice noodles, dried mushrooms, rice paper, fish sauces, chili oils and fresh cut flowers.  

Hoi An Market.  A large market in the ancient city held underneath a series of sheds with vendors selling produce, meats, seafood and dry goods. It’s similar to the Tiger Market with the addition of merchants selling souvenirs and Vietnamese dishes. The market spills out into the surrounding streets and along the waterfront. 

Hoi An Fabric Market.  A large textile market lined with bolts of fabrics, booths with tailors and custom clothing makers. It’s popular to have formal wear like suits and dresses made here. Vendors can produce anything using inspiration photos and have look books to choose from. They can be overly pushy when walking through the market so only come here if you’re serious about having something made. 

The Spice Route by Ms Vy.  A market selling herbal rice wines, candied ginger, almond cookies, aromatic soaps, medicinal teas and spices. The market leads unto a small courtyard with a cafe and up to a rooftop with views of the riverfront. It’s located inside a historic home and former maternity hospital. 

Coconut Basket Boats

One of the most popular activities in Hoi An is the experiencing coconut basket boats and getting spun around a rapid speeds. The round boats are traditionally woven baskets used by locals for stability while fishing the coastal waters. Paired with an energetic guide, he paddled us through the palm covered channels of the coconut island. We saw locals harvesting palm leaves for thatched roofs, watched a net fishing demonstration, paddled the boat ourselves and of course got spot around! We booked ahead of time, including roundtrip transportation from our homestay with Green Coconut Village Cooking Tour.

My Son Sanctuary 

My Son Sanctuary is a mountainous temple complex dedicated to the Hindu god, Shiva. It dates back to the 4th century and underwent continual expansion for 1,000 years afterwards. The sanctuary is the largest complex of its kind in South East Asia. It’s comprised of multiple groupings built from stacked ochre colored bricks and carved sandstone blocks used to create temples, gates, columns, altars and shrines. The complex was heavily destroyed during the US bombing of Vietnam. Fortunately, many of the temples have been restored, others remain crumbling and some are still buried and overgrown. Pathways lead between multiple temple groupings, many of which can we walked through and entered. 

Group M.  A platform and temple with the crumbling brick tower gate dating back to the 13th century.

Groups B and C.  The main temple complex dating back over 1,000 years with a temple dedicated to Shiva and multiple halls for mediation and prayer. We walked around the ruins, viewing carvings of Shiva, past fallen columns, and inside the still standing dark meditation halls. 

Group A.  A temple complex with brick structures and sandstone altars completely destroyed by bombing. 

Group G.  A temple with ornate reliefs of the faces of Hindi deities carved into the sandstone and brick at its base.

Group E.  A grouping of temples including a well preserved prayer hall and stelae covered in ancient Sanskrit. Some ruins are under restoration and some still buried beneath grassy hill. The site is scared with bomb craters. 

Group K.  A linear platform with an ornate and leaning brick temple at its end. 

Getting Here.  We booked a roundup shuttle from Hoi A departing at 8am and retuning at 1pm. The ruins are about 1 hour from the city. We had nearly 3 hours to explore them on our own time. We booked with Hoi An Food Tour - Private Day Tours. 

Vietnamese Street Food

Vietnamese street food is a part of daily life across the country and ubiquitous with its cuisine. We ate street food daily as a quick snack and food crawled through the night markets. 

• Banh Trang Nuon (Vietnamese Pizza).  A sheet of rice paper covered in toppings like fried onion, spring onion, tofu, mayo and spicy sauce, placed over a coal grill, folded in half and crisped. 

• Bánh Xoái (Mango Cake).  A gelatinous rice cake covered in cornstarch and filled with roasted peanuts and sugar. 

• Banh Gio (Rice Dumpling).  A triangular shaped dumpling made from gelatinous rice wrapped and served in a banana leaf. It’s often stuffed with savory ingredients. 

• Chuoi Nep Nuong (Grilled Rice Banana).  A fist sized nugget of sticky rice wrapped around a banana filling and grilled over a coal fire. It’s sliced up and covered in a drizzle of sweetened condensed milk.

• Bao (Steamed Buns).  Steams rolls of bread often shaped like lotus leaves. They’re often deep fried and drizzled with sweetened condensed milk. 

• Bánh Rán (Sesame Balls).  Deep fried gelatinous rice balls filled with sweetened bean paste and coated in toasted sesame seeds.

• Khoai Tay Loc Xoay (Tornado Potatoes).  Hand-cut slices of skewered and twice fried potatoes resembling a vortex. They’re often covered in mayo and sweet chili sauce.

• Bach Tuoc Nuong (Grilled Octopus).  Skewered and barbecued octopus legs cooked over a coal grill.  

• Dau Bap (Okra).  Skewers of grilled and charred okra. 

• Mực Khô Nướng (Grilled Dried Squid).  A whole dried squid cooked over a charcoal grill. It has a jerky-like texture and is served with sweet chili sauce. 

• Tôm Hùm Nướng (Grilled Lobster).  A freshly caught whole lobster, sliced in half, barbecued over a charcoal grill and covered in pan fried garlic and shallots. 

• Bánh Trung Thu Tím (Sweet Potato Mooncakes).  Pucks made from a mixture of purple sweet potato, coconut and mung bean purée. 

• Banana Pancakes.  Envelope shaped crepes filled with sliced bananas and covered in a drizzle of sweetened condensed milk. 

• Thai Ice Cream.  Also known as rolled ice cream, it’s a popular dessert mixed with coconut, banana, pineapple or mango. 

• Street Cocktails.  A street style bar cart with local beers and a menu of classic cocktails. We ordered late night drinks and watched the lantern festival along the river. 

Vietnamese Cuisine 

• Rice Noodles.  Thin and sticky white noodles made from rice flour. They’re served in many dishes or on the side. 

• Pho.  A Vietnamese soup made with a base or rice noodles, vegetables, meat or tofu and a savory broth boiled with warm spices like star anise, cinnamon and ginger. 

• Banh Mi.  A beloved Vietnamese sandwich famed for its baguette style bread baked with a crunchy exterior and pillowy interior. It’s traditionally stuffed with cilantro, cucumber, carrots and meat or tofu.  

• Cao Lâu.  A noodle dish hyperlocal to Hoi An made from rice noodles soaked in lye water and served with meat, greens, herbs, bean sprouts and broth. It can be made vegetarian with tempe or tofu. 

• Bún Hué.  A traditional rice noodle dish made with beef, vegetables and greens in a savory and spicy broth.  It can be made vegetarian with tempe or tofu. 

• Spring Rolls.  A deep fried roll of crispy dough often stuffed with cooked vegetables, herbs and meats or tofu. 

• Summer Rolls.  A roll of gelatinous rice paper wrapped around a salad of raw cucumber, carrot, cilantro, cabbage and occasionally cooked shrimp. It’s served cold. 

• Rose Dumpling.  A rice dumpling filled with onions, mushrooms and meat bathed in a savory sauce and garnished with fried onions. We tried a plate of them at the Hoi An Market.

• Banana Blossom Salad.  A salad combined with sliced banana blossoms, carrots, green papaya, onions and cilantro tossed in a citric fish sauce. 

• Black Sesame Soup.  A creamy and rich soup made from black sesame seeds and sweetened with purple potatoes. For decades, a couple would prepare and serve it on the streets to locals. It’s now served in their family home by the son. We sat down with him and enjoyed a cup of the soup while chatting about Vietnamese culture and sipping on tea. 

• Chao (Rice Porridge).  A thick porridge made from overcooked rice with a jammy egg, cilantro leaves, chopped spring onion, fish sauce, chili oil and sesame oil. It’s popular for breakfast. 

• Mango Sticky Rice.  Sticky rice served with sliced mango and often eaten at breakfast. It originates in Thailand but is popular across Vietnam. 

• Tropical Fruits.  Some to try are dragon fruit, pomelo, rose apple, mango, rambutan, papaya and lychee. 

• Tiger Beer.  One of the national beers sold across Vietnam. It’s a lager with a light and slightly citric flavor. The bottle or can is recognizable by its logo of a tiger. 

Vietnamese Coffee 

The coffee culture in Vietnam is a popular part of daily life. Countless street cafes spill out onto the sidewalks with locals sipping on their preferred style. 

• Vietnamese Coffee.  The most popular preparation style, mixed with sweetened condensed milk and served hot or iced. 

• Egg Coffee.  A creamy coffee mixed with whipped egg yolk and sweetened condensed milk. 

• Salt Coffee.  A sweet and savory coffee mixed with salted cream and often dusted in cocoa powder. 

• Coconut Coffee. A thick and sweet coffee mixed with coconut cream. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Pháp Hoà Vegan.  A vegan restaurant with a rotating daily menu of traditional Vietnamese noodle dishes and soups. The owner and cook prepared us bowls of Cao Lâu Chay and Bún Hué Chay. 

Bahn Mi Phuong.  A very popular restaurant to taste the beloved Vietnamese sandwich, Bahn Mi. The restaurant is set up similar to a NYC deli with a list of options and a fast paced ordering counter. We both ordered the vegetarian option with tofu. 

Tropical Home Craft Beer & Cocktail Bar.  A hidden bar down a narrow alleyway with local beers and strong tiki drinks served in tiki mugs with a miniature Vietnamese hats on top. We ordered the Zombie and Tropical Love You. 

Reaching Out Teahouse.  A traditional Vietnamese tea house operated by deaf and mute individuals. Silence is observed and orders are placed by using hand gestures and blocks with written phrases. We ordered a Vietnamese tea tasting with herbal, green and oolong teas paired with cookies and snacks. 

Market Bar Hoi An.  A second floor bar with an outdoor patio above the Hoi An Fabric Market. They concoct house infused gins with local flavors like pho, mangosteen, rose, nectarine and plum. We sipped on gin and tonics while watching scooters weave through the chaotic intersection below. 

Little Faifo Restaurant and Bar.  An old wooden house converted into a restaurant with Vietnamese dishes. We dined on their romantic balcony under the glow of the red lanterns looking over the street below. Order the banana blossom salad topped with grilled shrimp and calamari. 

Hoi An Ancient Remedy. A dim sum restaurant with herbal cocktails and rice wines located inside of a historic house. We tried the Ginseng Herbal Wine and The King Herbal Wine. The first had a bitter herbal flavor and the second tasted of warm spices and herbs. Each 100ml bottle was poured over ice with a slice of lime.

Hai San Hoi An.  A waterfront cafe in the ancient town serving Vietnamese coffees like egg and salt coffee. 

Vietnamese Crafts 

Hoi An is regionally known for its artwork and crafts including ink wash painting, lantern making, silk weaving, wood carvings and pottery.  

Silk Making.  We visited Daisu Silk, a boutique and a processing studio where silk is milled. We watched as women hand spun silk fibers into string and weaved bolts of pure silk fabric on antique wooden looms. They sell one of a kind hand painted silk squares available in 3 sizes. Prices are significantly higher than anywhere else in the ancient city, starting at about $100 USD. Visiting the shop and studio is free.

Ink Wash Painting.  A painting technique used by artists to brush ink and water onto paper or silk to create art. We watched street artists paint scenes from around Hoi An including cityscapes, landscapes and the Japanese Bridge. 

Lantern Making.  Lanterns are a huge part of Vietnamese culture and many are made in Hoi An. We visited the Hang Dung Lantern Making Class, where tourists can paint their own lanterns. With little space to bring one home, we watched as others painted their own.

Pottery Making.  Behind the Reaching Out Teahouse is a shop with handmade tea sets and a studio where ceramics are decorated with gold rims, copper handles and silver designs. We watched as artisans hand sawed, hammered and filed metal to complete the ceramics. 

Wood Carving.  Wood carving is an ancient tradition used to decorate the wooden elements of homes and temples in Hoi An. Today, artists use hammers and chisels to sculpt faces out of bamboo roots as souvenirs. 

Linen & Leather Goods 

Throughout Hoi An, many shops sell high quality handmade linen and leather goods including bags, shoes and accessories, offering one of a kind customizations. 

Helen Leather. The place to buy boots in Hoi An! I customized every element of each pair, selecting the design, shape, stitching, sole, color and softness. After negotiating on price, they measured my feet and began working on my order, completing them in 24 hours. 

Leather Shop New Fashion.  A leather goods shop with shoes, boots, bags, wallets and other accessories. I bought an off the shelf laptop bag and had a custom cord organizer made to pair with it. 

Leather & Suede Shop.  A shop specializing in leather backpacks, duffels, purses, messenger bags and wallets. I bought a minimally designed flip top backpack. 

Instyle Boutique Clothing.  A linen wear shop with modern handmade pieces of clothing including button down shirts, vests, dresses, one piece jumpsuits, pants and shorts. I bought a hand painted linen shirt. 

Where to Stay

Arabica Coffee & Homestay.  A cafe with Vietnamese coffees and rental units above its storefront. We stayed here for the week, enjoying coffees by morning and relaxing in our room and the communal kitchen during the evening. It’s located just outside of the ancient town in a very walkable area. Reserve on Booking. 

Getting Around

Grab Taxis.  Widely available on the Grab App and cheap to get around town as well as between Hoi An and the Da Nang Airport.

On Foot.  The ancient town and surrounding neighborhoods are easily walkable. Be cautious when crossing roads, double checking for scooters.

By Scooter.  Though we didn’t rent them, scooters are the most popular and local way to get around the city. We saw some rentals for $5 USD per day. 

Sightseeing Rickshaw.  A three wheeled bicycle with a seat for one or two people in front of the driver. Many tourists hire one to tour them around the ancient town.

Good to Know

Cash vs Card.  Most businesses and vendors are cash only. Clothing shops often accept card with a 1-3% fee. 

Vegetarian Food.  Vegetarian dishes are popular and easy to spot on menus. The word “Chay” after any dish means it’s vegetarian. 

Safety.  Vietnam is generally a safe country to visit. The ancient town of Hoi An is no exception. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Vietnamese are openly welcoming of LGBTQ+ travelers. When noticing our wedding rings, local women would ask how long we’ve been married and call us a happy couple.

Language.  Vietnamese and English are widely spoken, seen on street signs and restaurant menus across the country. That said, it’s still good to know a few Vietnamese phrases.

• Hello = Xin chào (Sing-Chow)

• Thank you = Cảm ơn (Com-Un)

• Good bye = Tạm biệt (Tam-Be-Et)

• See you later = Hẹn gặp lại (Hen-Gap-Lie)

Local Customs

• Take shoes off when visiting homes and temples. 

• Dress modestly when visiting temples. No hats, shorts or sleeveless shirts. 

• Hand things to people with two hands. 

• Avoid pointing at anything or anyone using an index finger. Use your full hand instead. 

• Crossing arms or pointing the soles of feet at anyone is considered rude. 

Elsewhere in Vietnam 

We spent nearly a month traveling across Vietnam, exploring its lively cities and beautiful landscapes. Along the way, we immersed ourselves in the country’s rich culture, history and craftsmanship while savoring Vietnamese cuisine, coffee and street food. Explore the bustling capital city and chaotic of Hanoi or venture out of the city to the islands of Ha Long Bay. Row through the karst mountains and caves of Ninh Binh past lush rice paddies and historic temples. Get lost in the vibrant city and nightlife of Saigon.

For Next Time…

Cham Islands.  A coastal bio reserve and marine sactuary made up of several islands, coral reefs and local fishing villages. We had booked a tour but it was canceled due to bad weather. 

Ba Na Hills.  An amusement park in Da Nang famed for its bridge being held up by a pair of hands. We had planned to visited but were delayed by a day flying into Vietnam and missed our date. 

Da Nang.  The main city to fly into and reach Hoi An from. Next time, we’ll spend time here exploring its urban culture, beaches and nearby mountains like Marble Mountain and Monkey Mountain.