Uruguay Travel Guide: Colonia del Sacramento, Montevideo & Punta del Este

A Week in Uruguay 

Uruguay is an under the radar destination with a relaxed and unpretentious atmosphere. Its blend of European influences, subtropical climate, colonial architecture and thriving wine culture adds to its welcoming allure. We spent a week traveling along the scenic coastline between historic cities and seaside towns. 

Colonia del Sacramento

Colonia del Sacramento is a charming and picturesque colonial old town along Uruguay’s Rio de la Plata. With its Spanish and Portuguese influences, the city is an architectural gem comprised of  stone buildings, colorfully painted facades, crumbling ruins, cobblestone streets and lush plazas. 

Springtime in Colonia 

The town is a verdant place during the springtime. Towering sycamore trees line the streets while purple flowering bougainvillea bushes grow along the facades of colonial buildings. Lush palm trees shade the plazas as bright green parakeets chirp overhead. 

Colonial Sights

El Faro de Colonia.  A slender white lighthouse attached to the crumbling ruins of a former convent. We climbed its spiral staircase to the observatory with panoramic views of the colonial city. 

Plaza Mayor.  A tree covered plaza in the center of the old town surrounded by cobblestone streets, historic sights and colonial buildings with restaurants, cafes and shops. 

Basílica del Santísimo Sacramento.  A historic colonial church with a white painted exterior and two bell towers with Portuguese tiled domes. 

Plaza de Armas.  A tree covered plaza at the foot of the Basílica del Santísimo Sacramento with restaurants and cafés. 

Portón de Campo.  A remnant of the stone wall once surrounding the colonial city with a wooden drawbridge and gate marking the entrance to the old town. 

Bastions Santa Rita, San Pedro & San Miguel.  Three sections of the stone wall with tiny plazas overlooking the water surrounding the colonial town.

Calle de Portugal.  One of the most beautiful and historic streets in Colonia. It’s an original Portuguese street with a stone road, colorful buildings, giant flowering trees and street lanterns. 

Calle de los Suspiros.  The oldest street in the Barrio Histórico with colonial stone buildings and views of the Rio de la Plata.

Ruínas das Casa dos Governadores Portugueses.  The overgrown stone ruins and foundation of a mansion belonging to the former Portuguese governor of Colonia de Sacramento. Families of parakeets live in the palm trees growing from the ruins. 

Plaza de Augusto.  A tree covered plaza with a central fountain, park benches and an outdoor gallery of natural photography. 

Mercado Artesanal de Colonia.  A market building with a cafe and vendors selling local crafts, jarred goods and Uruguayan wines. 

Places to Eat & Drink in Colonia

Serrano Café.  A rooftop café with pastries, breakfast dishes and views overlooking the Rio de la Plata. We came here for brunch, ordering an egg and avocado toast, a yogurt bowl and house lemonade made with mint and hibiscus.

Resto-Morriña.  A fusion restaurant merging Uruguayan and Galician cuisine with a tapas style menu. We shared everything, ordering the pulpo croquettes, papas bravas and cazuela de pescado y mariscos.

Freddos.  A national cafe chain known for its ice cream. We visited the location in Plaza Mayor for an afternoon coffee under the shaded umbrellas. 

Irene's Naturalmente Sabroso.  A local vegan and vegetarian restaurant serving traditionally meat forward Uruguayan dishes like Milanesa and Chivito, a sandwich made with seitan steak, lettuce, tomato and mayonnaise. 

El Buen Suspiro.  A wine bar in one of the oldest buildings in Colonia with thick plastered walls, short wooden doorways and a wall of Uruguayan wines. We ordered a glass of the Bodega Irurita Tannat Reserva and Bodega los Cerros de San Juan Tannat Tempranillo along with a charcuterie platter of four cheeses and bread. 

Vinos del Mundo.  A wine bar and shop in the Plaza de Armas with a wide selection of Uruguayan wines, especially Tannat and Tempranillo. We bought a bottle of Tannat and sipped on it later that afternoon on the roof of our hostel. 

Tips for Visiting Colonia

Getting Here.  Colonia is reachable 1 hour by ferry from Buenos Aires or 2 hours 30 minutes by bus from Montevideo. We booked our ferry with Buquebus and departed by bus with COT (Compañía Oriental de Transporte).

How Long to Visit.  Most sights can be seen easily within a day but it’s better to stay overnight to enjoy the the town at a slower pace.

Where to Stay.  We stayed the night at Viajero Colonia, a hostel chain across South America. The accommodation was simple but central with a rooftop overlooking the Rio de la Plata, luggage storage and breakfast included. 

Montevideo

Montevideo is a metropolitan city with historic architecture, graffitied streets, numerous museums, tree covered plazas and white sand beaches. For a capital city, it has a quiet vibe, an inviting atmosphere and unpretentious allure that quickly had us saying, “we could live here.” 

The city is heavily influenced by European immigrants reflected in both the cuisine and architecture. Buildings are designed in Art Nouveau, Neoclassical, Renaissance, Gothic and Spanish colonial styles. Restaurants serve Spanish tapas, Italian pastas, pizzas and gelato as well as French pastries. 

Neighborhoods

Ciudad Vieja.  The oldest neighborhood of Montevideo once surrounded by a city wall during the colonial era. It’s an attractive neighborhood to explore on foot with pedestrian streets lined with vendors, lush shaded plazas, quaint cafe, Uruguayan restaurants and numerous museums.

El Centro.  The business district of Montevideo with office buildings, theaters, shops and public plazas. Its main avenues are hubs for all types of commerce and its side streets host small cafes, restaurants and residences. 

Barrio Parque Rodó.  A beautiful neighborhood named after the park that resides in it. Come here to walk around the tree covered streets, admire the various architectural styles, sunbathe at Playa Ramires, visit the National Art Museum and sip on cocktails at one of the many nearby bars. 

Enjoy the Parks & Plazas

Parque Rodó.  A seaside park next to Playa Ramirez with a colorful Spanish tiled fountain, an alley of towering palm trees, a lagoon with paddle boats, bronze statues, flowering gardens, small amusement park rides and a holiday craft fair.

Plaza de la Independencia. A palm lined central plaza with a large military mausoleum, the preserved ruins of the old town’s city gate and small fountains. It’s surrounded by historic and government buildings, most notably the Palacio Salvo. 

Plaza de la Diversidad Sexual.  A plaza in the old town dedicated to the LGBTQ+ community of Montevideo. The triangular plaza has a colorful mural and photo gallery honoring a transgender activist. 

Plaza de la Constitución.  A lush plaza covered by a canopy of sycamore and palm trees. At its center is a tiered marble fountain celebrating Uruguay’s independence with motifs of dragons spouting water. The plaza frequently hosts a market of vendors selling artwork, antiques, handmade items and souvenirs. 

Relax at the City Beaches

Playa Ramírez.  A crescent shaped white sand beach along the Rio de la Plata in the city center. It’s popular with locals for sunbathing, picnics and playing futbol. We spent an afternoon here sunbathing. 

Playa de Los Pocitos.  A large crescent shaped white sand beach along the Rio de la Plata. It’s Montevideo’s main beach, hugged by a skyline of residential towers and a palm lined promenade popular with joggers and bikers. We came here for the afternoon to listen to waves and sunbathe. Midway along the beach is Los Delfines, a small beach bar with strong mojitos and caipirinhas.

See the Museums 

Museo Andes 1972.  A museum dedicated to the story of the Uruguayan airplane crash in the Andes Mountains. It accurately tells the stories of the survivors and remembers those that died. The exhibits include artifacts from the tragedy like clothes, aircraft parts, letters and IDs.

Museo de Arte Precolombino y Indígena (MAPI).  A museum in a restored colonial building dedicated to the indigenous cultures of the Americas. The exhibits displayed and compared artifacts from North American tribes, Central American civilizations, Andean societies and the local peoples of Uruguay and Argentina. When we visited, a temporary exhibit displayed hundreds of masks from cultures across the Americas. 

Espacio de Arte Contemporáneo.  A contemporary art museum with works by Uruguayan artists. The museum is located in a former prison with its cells transformed into galleries and exhibit space. It’s free to enter! 

Museo Nacional de Artes Visuales.  An art museum housing a permanent collection of Uruguayan art with rotating galleries by Uruguayan artists. Art ranges from the colonial era to modern day. It’s free to enter!

Tango Museum.  A museum dedicated to the history of Tango, the Tango bar that once stood in place of Palacio Salvo and the Uruguayan Tango composer, G.H. Matos Rodríguez, famed for his song La Cumparsita. 

Visit the Sights 

Palacio Salvo.  A historic skyscraper and symbol of Uruguay dating back to 1928. Designed in multiple architectural styles, it stands out with its ornamental tower, organic corners and domed roof. Originally built as a hotel, it’s now a residential building with hundreds of apartments. We stayed at an Airbnb on the 8th floor, overlooking the plaza. We toured the building, visiting the observatory just below the domed roof, the 10th deck with close up views of the tower and the Tango Museum at its base.

Mausoleo de José Gervasio Artigas.  A large monument dedicated to the revolutionary hero with an underground mausoleum protected by two presidential guards. 

Puerta de la Ciudadela.  One of the few remaining walled city gates that surrounded colonial Montevideo. 

Fortaleza Del Cerro.  A Spanish style hilltop fort built from stone with white painted guard towers and cannons lining its wall. The fort offers views of the city, Rio de la Plata and countryside. Inside of its walls is a military history museum dedicated to the country’s independence with exhibits housing antique guns and swords.

Palacio Legislativo.  The capital building of Uruguay and seat of the country’s legislative branch. The intricately designed building is carved from stone blocks with statues, sculptures, columns and ornate reliefs covering its exterior. Instead of a  domed roof, the building features a columned pantheon style crown. 

La Rambla.  A waterfront promenade and road stretching along the city’s coast with beaches, parks and bike paths.

Experience the Festivals and Markets 

La Bajada.  Uruguay’s largest music festival! A summery party scene celebrating the end of the year with thousands of people singing and dancing along to Latin music, live performances and Uruguayan DJs. The date and location are only announced the week of. It’s free to enter, starting in the late afternoon and going into the night. We discovered it completely by accident while walking along La Rambla. 

Feria del Parque Rodó.  A holiday craft fair that operates from early December until Christmas. Hundreds of vendors set up in tents lining the perimeter of Parque Rodó selling yerba mate accessories, jewelry, house-plants, leather goods, cutting boards, clothing, crystals and gifts. There are two sections with food trucks selling all varieties of cuisine and beverages.

Mercado del Puerto.  A historic market in a wrought iron and wooden pavilion with many restaurants specializing in Parrilla. Smoke from wood burning grills fills the air with an aromatic haze as coils of sausage, slabs of meat and red bell peppers cook on large grates. Other vendors sell empanadas, Uruguayan wines, alfajores, yerba mate, gaucho style clothing and souvenirs.

Places to Eat and Drink in Montevideo

Toque Toque Bar.  A historic Renaissance style house converted into a restaurant and bar with an outdoor patio and indoor dining room beneath a brightly colored stained glass roof. The menu features Spanish style tapas and cocktails. We came here for pre-dinner drinks. Try the Tropical Gin made with gin, passion fruit, lemon and vanilla or the Free Bird mixed with rum, strawberry, Aperol and mint.

Toledo Tapas Bar.  An elevated tapas bar in a converted neo-classical home with contemporary twists on Spanish dishes. We shared the Peruvian style ceviche, garlic shrimp cooked with caramelized onions and carrots, and the Papas Bravas, prepared as a savory layered tart containing the sauce within. To drink, we sipped on a tiki style rum cocktail and a light but refreshing gin and tonic with grapefruit. 

Bar Rodó.  A popular bar in the Barrio Parque Rodó with multiple locations. Come here for Uruguayan bar food, cocktails and regional beers. 

Baker’s Bar.  A local feeling cocktail and tapas bar with well made drinks. Try a classic drink like the mai tai or one of their house concoctions like La Picosa, made with mezcal and garnished with a purple foam. 

Cervecería Malafama.  A large beer hall and brewery in a warehouse style building with house brewed lagers, IPAs, stouts and sours. Their kitchen turns out delicious Uruguayan style pizzas and traditional tapas. We tried the amber lager, west coast IPA and “Bianca de Papas,” a pizza made with a garlic cream and thinly sliced potatoes. 

Restaurant El Navegante.  A seafood restaurant with nautical decor, a fish tank in the bar and a menu of basic but tasty versions of traditional Uruguayan dishes. We ordered the Merluza (fried hake) and Miniaturas de Pescado (small fried fish bites).  

Café Salvo.  A café at the base of the Palacio Salvo with coffee, pastries and sandwiches. We stopped in one morning for a quick breakfast. 

Punta del Este

Punta del Este is a resort town with sandy beaches, upscale neighborhoods and a historic peninsula lined with restaurants, bars, cafes and shops. We spent a long weekend in Punta relaxing on the beaches, walking the around the city’s central neighborhoods and visiting nearby sights. 

Neighborhoods & Sights

The Peninsula.  The neighborhood on the city’s peninsula with restaurants, bars, cafes, shops, small beaches, a harbor, high end homes and the country’s southernmost point. 

• Faro de Punta del Este.  A golden orange lighthouse in the middle of the peninsula with a brick lighthouse keeper’s home at its base. We tried to visit its observation deck twice but it was closed due to the off season. 

• Avenida Gorlero.  A touristy and commercial street in the center of the peninsula with shops, restaurants, cafes, art galleries, real estate offices and markets. 

• Punta Salinas.  The furthest point on the peninsula and southernmost point in Uruguay. There is an ocean view lookout and small war memorial. 

• Feria de Artesanos de Punta del Este.  A market on a palm lined plaza of the peninsula with dozens of vendors set up in a series of kiosks selling handmade items, mate accessories, beachwear and souvenirs.  

San Rafael Neighborhood.  The upscale neighborhood along Playa Brava with beachfront skyscrapers, luxury residences and high end hotels.

• La Mano en La Arena.  A sculpture of a hand crawling out of the sand built as a warning sign of the risk of drowning in the powerful currents. 

• Playa Brava.  A lengthy yellow sand beach along the Atlantic with several seasonal restaurants, surf schools and nearby hotels. It’s a popular spot for sunbathing and relaxing along the shore.  

Places to Eat & Drink in Punta del Este

Restaurante Raíces.  A Spanish restaurant with several types of paella, tapas style starters and Uruguayan wines. We shared a seafood paella made with shrimp, mussel, scallops and calamari along with a bottle of Cabernet Franc from Bodega Garzón, recognized as one of the country’s best vineyards. 

Puerto de Punta del Este.  A dining complex near the harbor with seafood restaurants, cafes, bars and ice-cream shops. We stopped by La Marea for Chocolate con Churros!

Manantiales Point.  A two level restaurant overlooking the harbor with multiple bars. We stopped in for their afternoon happy hour, sharing a pitcher of Sangria made from Uruguayan wine.

Museo Casapueblo

A terraced organic complex built into the coastal hillside with white painted buildings formed by curved walls, conical spires, winding staircases, terracotta terraces and blue tiled accents. It was designed and built by one of Uruguay’s most beloved artists, Carlos Páez Vilaró, throughout his lifetime. The property served as his studio, home and a living sculpture. It’s now converted into a museum, restaurant and hotel with galleries of his work and a theater with a film about his life.

The Ceremony of the Sun.  As the sun sets below the Rio de la Plata, a recording of Carlos Páez Vilaró’s poem “Ceremonia del Sol” is played over Casapueblo. It’s a beautiful ode to the sun and life. We came here our last night in Uruguay, a fitting end to our time in this beautiful country. Arrive an hour early and book tickets online in advance. 

Playa Chihuahua.  Suns out buns out! A lengthy nude beach with yellow sand, some grassy dunes, a coastal river and a beach shack selling drinks and light bites. After laying out, we stopped by for caipirinhas and some shade. The beach is very LGBTQ+ friendly with a progress flag flying along side Uruguay’s flag. It’s located a 10 minutes from Museo Casapueblo.

Uruguayan Cuisine

Provoleta.  Grilled and melted Argentinean provolone cheese seasoned with oregano and olive oil. It’s often served with bread for dipping.

Uruguayan Style Pizza.  Uruguayan style pizza is focused on the bread with a thin crust and pillowy dough. Sauce and cheese are treated like any other topping and not guaranteed. It’s frequently sold by the half meter at pizzerias across the city. 

Medialunas.  Tiny half moon shaped pastries similar to croissants made with a sweet dough and sugar glaze. 

Picada.  An Uruguayan version of charcuterie with a range of items to “pick at” like cheeses, spreads, pickled veggies, breads, meats and empanadas. 

Tortas Fritas.  A sweet snack made from rolled dough, deep fried and covered in dulce de leche or cinnamon sugar. It’s typically sold at street carts in plazas and parks. 

Yerba Mate.  This herbal tea is immensely  popular across Uruguay. People carry around gourd shaped mugs filled with tea leaves and a thermos with hot water to continuously steep their mate throughout the day. Its drunk through a metal straw with a spoon shaped filter at its end. 

Tannat.  The national wine of Uruguay produced at vineyards across the country. It’s a tasty wine defined by its tannic forward mouth feel and rich palette of flavors. 

Fernet and Coke.  A bitter herbal liquor mixed with Coke. It’s a common cocktail across Uruguay.

Where to Stay 

Rocamar Boutique Hostel. A hostel near Playa Brava with dorms and private rooms. There is a communal patio with seating areas, a pool table and bar. It’s popular with young Uruguayans and Argentineans working seasonal jobs in the tourism and service industries.

Location Specifics

Covers.  Many restaurants and bars have “hidden covers” or cubiertos ranging in cost for dining in. 

Tipping.  10% tips are customary.

Cash vs. Card.  Card is accepted at most businesses. There is often a 10-25% discount at restaurants for using credit cards. 

For Next Time…

Having spent just over a week in Uruguay, we were able to enjoy time in three of the country's coastal cities. When we return we plan to visit more of the smaller towns and tour vineyards. 

Punta del Este.  Though we spent a long weekend in this beautiful beach town in mid December, most businesses were still closed for the season and the weather was cool and rainy. We would love to return to experience its full charm under the summer sun. 

Punta del Diablo.  A fishing village and beach town near the Brazilian border with sand dunes, dirt roads and tiny coastal houses. 

Carmelo.  A small town along the Uruguay River with many vineyards specializing in the national grape, Tannat. 

Buenos Aires Travel Guide: Neighborhoods, Food & Nightlife

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Buenos Aires is a vibrant metropolis renowned for its cuisine, culture, architecture and history. It’s home to lively markets, world class cocktail bars, impressive art museums, glamorous buildings and verdant parks. It’s defined by its distinct neighborhoods, each with their own character and charm. We spent a week exploring the city and discovering its hidden gems. 

San Telmo

San Telmo is a historic and bohemian neighborhood with cobblestone streets, colonial buildings, colorful murals and paper graffiti. It’s popular for its flea markets, antique stores and vintage shops selling an assortment of objects, jewelry, clothes, home goods and furniture. Sunday is the most lively day when thousands flock to the neighborhood’s streets, markets and plazas for weekend celebrations, happy hours, shopping and Tango performances.

San Telmo Market.  A historic market with an eclectic range of vendors and visitors. The liveliest day of the week, Sunday, provides a sensory experience with savory smells wafting from restaurant stalls serving empanadas, fugazza (Argentine pizza) and grilled meats. Between the chaos of rowdy futbol fans, farm stands sell fresh produce and provisions shops sell cheeses, meats, yerba matte, dulce de leche, spices, Malbec wine and olives. Towards the fringes, aisles of flea market booths draw your eye, packed with antiques, vintage clothes, home decor, leather goods and handmade items. 

• Wine Window.  A wine bar serving Argentinian wines. Order at the bar, ring the bell and wait for the tiny window to pop open with your glass of wine.

• Regina Vermutheria.  A popular restaurant with fugatza (Argentine pizza) and grilled meats cooked in coal ovens. We came here for their classic fugazza, topped with mozzarella, red onion and olives then garnished with oregano, olive oil and salt. 

• Merci.  A bakery with breads and pastries mixing Argentinean and French flavors. The dulce de leche eclair caught our attention and did not disappoint! 

Plaza Dorrego.  A small but lively plaza in San Telmo popular for its Sunday flea market, Tango performances, local restaurants and bars serving inexpensive beers.

Feria de San Telmo.  A Sunday flea market in Plaza Dorrego with tents of vendors selling antique silver tableware, vintage clothing and accessories like pins, jewelry, purses, glasses and hats. Vendors sprawl into the nearby street selling handmade items like leather goods, knives, jewelry in front of shops selling all forms of dulce de leche and Argentinian futbol jerseys. 

Palermo

Palermo is a vast neighborhood comprised of three sub neighborhoods: Palermo Hollywood, Palermo Soho and Palermo Chico. Together, they provide an endless range of cafes and coffee shops, local and international restaurants, hidden cocktail bars and late night pubs, lush city parks and cultural museums. It’s one of the most popular neighborhoods for locals, expats and travelers to live and visit.

Palermo Hollywood

Hollywood has a quiet and calm atmosphere which makes it the perfect location to stay. It’s densely residential but in close proximity to all the amenities of city life. Everything is less than 20 minutes away including local restaurants, cute cafes, late night bars, bakeries, public transit, city parks, mini markets, barber shops, convenience stores, hardware stores, etc. 

Tres de Febrero Park.  A massive park with a rose garden, Japanese garden, botanical garden, planetarium, recreational ball courts & fields, a golf course, a horserace track, cafes, restaurants, bars and beer gardens. 

• Paseo del Rosedal.  A romantic and flowering rose garden with colorful flowers, fountains, pergolas and a lake with paddle boat rentals. 

• Japanese Garden.  A traditional Japanese style garden with a large koi pond, pagodas, well manicured trees, red torii gates, arched red bridges and a tea house serving Japanese meals. The garden offers a peaceful and zen retreat in the middle of the city. While here, buy a beckoning cat ribbon, write a note, wish or prayer on it, then tie it to the Shinto shrine. 

• Carlos Thays Botanical Garden.  A large botanical garden with a variety of native and exotic trees, plants, flowers and cacti. The park offers a tranquil escape from the city with walking paths, flower covered trellises, historic greenhouses, bronze sculptures and marble fountains.

Cafes & Argentine Patisserie. There is a café culture across Palermo Hollywood with coffee shops, bakeries and café around every corner. We stopped by a few during our walks through the neighborhood.

• Caversaschi & Co.  A café with egg dishes and artisanal baked goods including some of the best medialunas we had in Argentina. They were large, flaky and covered in a thin sugar glaze. 

• V+Frapu.  A vegan café with empanadas, pastries and coffees. We stopped in for a mid afternoon pick me up and light bite. 

• El Secreto.  A café with pastries, cakes, sandwiches, coffees and cookies. We stopped in for a late night dessert.

Palermo Soho

Soho, as its name implies, is the trendy area to be and the best spot for nightlife. There is no shortage of high end restaurants, local haunts, world class cocktail bars, lively pubs, coffee shops and afternoon brunch spots.

Plaza Serrano.  A lively plaza surrounded by bars and restaurants, popular for its nightlife and music, especially on Sundays. Arriving near midnight, we joined hundreds of energetic locals sharing bottles of wine and pints of beer together at outdoor tables.

• Pekin Bar de Pizzas.  The smell of baked pizzas and window display of Argentine style empanadas lured us in and keeps loyal locals coming back. Walking home from Plaza Serrano, we stopped in for an assortment of late night veggie empanadas like caprese, spinach with béchamel and cheese with onions.  

• Baum.  One of the many bars and cervecerías in Plaza Serrano with house brewed beers. We ordered a couple pints to end our Sunday night. 

Palermo Cocktail Bars

Buenos Aires has an endless number of world class cocktail bars, particularly in Palermo Soho. Throughout the week, we tasted unique concoctions and some classic cocktails with a twist at numerous bars. 

• Uptown.  An underground speakeasy styled like a New York City subway station. We immediately felt transported back to NYC when entering the bar. As we descended the stairs into the “station,” we heard MTA announcements and walked through a corridor with train maps, Broadway ads, tiled walls and graffiti. Passing through turnstiles, we boarded a train car converted into a waiting area. The opposite doors opened into an industrial feeling space with nods to New York. Once inside, head to the bar and order a classic Manhattan, Gin Martini or specialty cocktail like “A Drink at Tiffany’s” or “Lost in Manhattan.”

• Boticario.  An apothecary themed cocktail bar with herbal concoctions and prohibition era libations. Sit at the dimly lit wooden bar lined with bottles of spirits, antique decor and fine glassware. Order a cocktail on the menu from one of the uniformed and tattooed bartenders or ask them to concoct something to treat your ailments. Try the Sazerac or Penicillin. 

• Oh’no! Lulu.  An unassuming tiki bar in a converted warehouse only identifiable by a neon sign of a dancing hula girl out front. Once inside, the atmosphere is as much about the decor as it is the cocktails. The tropical feeling space is styled with wicker furniture, bamboo walls, suspended basket pendants, a tiki god fireplace, a pirate flag, torches and vintage decor all blanketed in a warm red glow. The cocktails arrive in a variety of mugs including house designs like Poseidon, a shark head and a shrunken skull. Try the flaming Zombie, Shark!, Tikigroni and The Floor is Lava. 

• La Uat Bar.  A clubby and beachy speakeasy with Miami vice vibes, retro decor, pink and blue lights, a giant disco ball, a second floor club and cocktails that lean herbal & fruity. The entrance is hidden beyond a beaded palm tree curtain behind the kitchen of a street side walk up restaurant. Once inside, try the Rosa Rosa or Marxxxtini Highball. 

• Brukbar.  An inventive cocktail bar popular with locals open late into the evening. Try the Maldito Mango, a passion fruit and tequila fishbowl with a “pour it yourself” bottle of habanero hibiscus syrup. Or Penny’s Punch, a tart and balanced cocktail in a mug of Pennywise the Clown’s head. 

• Tres Monos.  A late night cocktail bar with funky vibes and equally as unique drinks. Bartenders shake and stir tropical, fruity and herbal forward cocktails with their house made gin and a range of spirits. The bar has a fun and unpretentious atmosphere while maintaining its rating as one of the top 50 cocktail bars in the world.  

• Rey de Copas.  An eclectic and artsy cocktail bar with decor, music and flavorful drinks themed after world wonders and international locations. Once inside, find a nook that speaks to you and relax with a cocktail in hand. Try the Giza, a vodka based drink made with honey, citrus and mint. Or Chichén Itzá, a tequila and mezcal based cocktail made with jalapeño and hibiscus. 

• Doppelgänger.  A martini bar with gin and herbal cocktails. Mixologists make drinks based on what type of spirits and flavors you like. Our bartender made us a black pepper vodka martini and a white Negroni with pisco. (FYI. It’s located on the other side of town, nowhere near Palermo.)

Places to Eat in Palermo

El Preferido de Palermo.  A higher end restaurant with a range of homestyle Argentinean and international dishes cooked over coal. We made a reservation ahead of time for dinner, dining in their outdoor patio and sharing a few tapas. First, a smoky spread of baba ganoush with sourdough rolls. Second, faina (chickpea flatbread) with provolone. Third, baked rice topped with asparagus prepared in a cast iron dish. It was similar to a vegetarian paella with a crispy socarrat. 

Moshu Treehouse.  Let them eat cake! A coffee shop known for their artisanal cakes and scones. We stopped in for brunch, ordering slices of the carrot cake and lemon blueberry cake. Hungry for more than cake, we split an order of creamed eggs with cured trout.

Palermo Chico

Chico is a smaller and ritzy area of Palermo with ornate mansions, embassies, museums and city parks. It’s slightly more removed but perfect for exploring its cultural sights and beautiful streets.

Palermo Art Museums 

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes.  Argentina’s national art museum with pieces by Argentine artists depicting the country's battles for independence, its indigenous peoples, working class and city life. Galleries include sculpture, tapestries, artifacts and European works dating back to the Renaissance and by artists like Degas, Van Gogh, Renoir, Cézanne, Toulouse-Lautrec, Gauguin, Manet, Monet and Picasso. Entry is free or by donation. 

Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA).  An art museum housing contemporary Argentinian art and pieces by Latin American artists including Fernando Botero, Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo.

El Centro

The central neighborhood is home to some of Buenos Aires’ most iconic buildings, historic sights and landmarks.

Plaza de Mayo.  The city’s main plaza surrounded by government buildings, most notably, the presidential palace. 

La Casa Rosada.  The Argentine presidential palace, home and offices named after its rose tinted stone exterior. 

Avenida de Mayo.  A grand avenue lined with historic buildings, cafes and hotels. 

Corrientes Avenue.  A street with Broadway style theaters and chain clothing stores. The parallel streets are lined with beautiful architecture, popular afternoon cafes, happy hour bars and local lunch spots. 

Palacio Barolo.  A famed office building designed in the theme of Dante’s Divine Comedy with tours and a panoramic rooftop bar.

Obelisco.  A white stone obelisk commemorating the city’s founding.

Puente de la Mujer.  A sleek pedestrian swing bridge with a sail-like cantilevered suspension designed by Calatrava in honor of Argentine women. 

Buenos Aires Ecological Reserve.  The city’s largest park with walking paths, bike trails and boardwalks through wetlands, lagoons and forests. The middle of the reserve features a circular boardwalk over a lagoon with views looking back towards the modern city skyline. Between the moss and sea grass, we spotted turtles, ducks and dragonflies. Further into the reserve is a picnic area with views of the Rio de la Plata. It’s free to enter and easy to spend several hours exploring on foot or by bike. 

La Boca

La Boca is a vibrant neighborhood with waterfront warehouses, a large futbol stadium, colorfully painted buildings, graffitied streets, large murals and caricature-like statues of famous Argentinians including Tango dancers, futbol players and even the pope. The most lively area of the neighborhood is Caminito, home to sports bars, tango clubs and tourist shops. We explored the area in the late afternoon and early evening. Most places only began to open up around 8pm. 

Tigre 

Tigre is a historic suburb of Buenos Aires with homes built along canals and wetlands in the Tigre River Delta. We took a day trip here to explore its lush waterways, islands and architecture. 

Paseo Victoria.  A tree lined pedestrian street along the river with restaurants, boat launches, canoe rentals and historic buildings. We walked along the promenade watching wooden boats pass up and down the canal. 

Puertos de Frutos.  A vast market with booths of vendors selling wooden furniture, wicker baskets, handmade knives, yerba mate mugs and souvenirs. 

Getting Here.  Take the MITRE train, a commuter rail line that extends further than the Subte. Stations often only accept cash for tickets. 

Tigre Canal Tour

The best way to explore Tigre and its canals is by boat! There are many tour operators near the Rio Tigre and piers. We shopped around for a small boat tour that would bring us further into the river delta than the larger catamarans.

We rode on a tiny traditional wooden boat to tour the grand canal and narrow passageways. Along the grand canal, we passed a ship yard, ornate art museum and amusement park. Venturing further into the islands and narrower channels, we boated past small hotels and resorts, summer cottages, modern homes, wooden casitas and a former president’s home, preserved inside of a glass box. 

The tour was narrated in both English and Spanish. En route, we learned about the community, its history and the landscape of the waterways. The tour lasted an hour and cost around $35 USD per person.

Argentine Cuisine 

• Empanadas.  One of Argentina’s most popular snacks. The savory packets of dough are stylized with crimped sides and stuffed with fillings including meats, veggies or seafood.  

• Milanesa.  A popular dish made of breaded and fried meat or vegetables like eggplant. 

• Fugazza.  Argentinean style pizza made with a thin crust and fluffy dough topped with any number of toppings. Traditional places bake it in a coal or wood fired oven. 

• Provoleta.  Grilled and melted Argentinean provolone cheese seasoned with oregano and olive oil. It’s often served with bread for dipping.

• Rabas.  Rings of Argentinian style fried calamari. It’s a common restaurant appetizer and snack at bars.

• Picadas.  Argentinian style charcuterie. A plate of “pickings” often includes cheese, pickled veggies and meat. 

• Medialunas.  Tiny half moon shaped pastries similar to croissants made with a sweet dough and sugar glaze. 

• Alfajores. Two sugar cookies with a generous layer of dulce de leche sandwiched in between and coated in coconut shavings or covered in chocolate. 

• Malbec.  A full bodied red wine and the national wine of Argentina, primarily grown in the Mendoza region. 

• Fernet and Coke.  A bitter herbal liquor mixed with Coke. It’s a common cocktail across Argentina. 

• Quilmes.  Argentina’s national beer. The lager is inexpensive and widely available at bars and restaurants across Buenos Aires.

• Yerba Mate.  This herbal tea is immensely popular across Argentina. People carry around gourd shaped mugs filled with tea leaves and a thermos with hot water to continuously steep their mate throughout the day. Its drunk through a metal straw with a spoon shaped filter at its end. 

Where to Stay

We stayed at an Airbnb in the middle of Palermo Hollywood. For many of the reasons we love this neighborhood, it was the perfect spot to stay. The studio included a kitchen and balcony.

Getting Around 

• Subte (Public Transit).  A transit system of buses and subways with routes all across Buenos Aires. It’s the easiest and cheapest way to navigate the city. We paid by tapping our credit card at the kiosks with fares costing around $0.75 per ride. 

• Ubers.  Ubers are available across Buenos Aires. They’re great for distances outside the reaches of the Subte. 

• On Foot. Though each neighborhood is vast, they’re easily walkable for those used to living in cities. Most places are reachable on foot or from the metro station within 20 minutes.

• Airports. There are two main airports in Buenos Aires. Ezeiza International Airport is located 45 minutes by car from the city center and typically welcomes international arrivals. Jorge Newbery International Airport is located in the city center, 15 minutes by car from Palermo and typically welcomes domestic travelers. 

Location Specifics

• Siestas.  Siestas or afternoon breaks are a thing in Buenos Aires. Many businesses close between 12-3pm. 

• Dinner Hour.  Dinner service typically starts after 8pm, lasting until midnight. 

• Currency.  Exchanging USD for pesos provides a better rate than using ATMs. Currency exchanges will not accept tattered, torn or marked bills.

• Restaurant Reservations.  Reservations are needed at most restaurants to guarantee a table.

• Cash vs. Card.  Credit card is widely accepted however, debit card is preferred. Prices can cost up to 10% more than with cash. It’s good to carry both Argentine pesos and USD. 

• Tipping.  10% tips are common. 

• Costs.  Like many major cities, Buenos Aires is very expensive, especially when it comes to dining out. 

Elsewhere in Argentina 

From Buenos Aires' vibrant neighborhoods and tango halls to Mendoza's vineyards and Patagonia's glaciers, continue exploring Argentina's diverse landscapes and culture through these travel guides:

Mendoza Argentina Travel Guide: Wineries, Wine Tours & Cuisine.  Cycle through Mendoza's vineyards and wineries where celebrated Malbecs, Argentine cuisine and Andean landscapes define Argentina's premier wine region.

Patagonia Argentina Travel Guide: Perito Moreno Glacier, El Calafate & Fitz Roy.  Explore Patagonia's dramatic landscapes where glaciers, turquoise lakes, snow capped mountains and alpine towns define Argentina's remote southern frontier.

For Next Time…

Buenos Aires is one of those ever changing worldly cities that leaves you wanting to return! We can’t wait for our next trip here and will eagerly be tracking flights. Outside of Buenos Aires and the destinations we’ve already visited in Argentina, we’re excited to see some of the country’s other highlights. 

• Córdoba.  A northern Argentine city famed for its colonial architecture, scenic mountain range landscapes and Argentine cuisine. 

• Argentinian Andes and Atacama.  Having visited the Chilean and Bolivian Andes and Atacama, we’d like to travel to the Argentinian region home to more desert lagoons, volcanoes, salt flats and waterfalls. 

• Ushuaia and Antarctica.  At the bottom tip of South America is the world’s southernmost city, Ushuaia. We plan to visit and take a ship across the tortuous Drake’s Passage to the white continent, Antarctica. 

• Iguazú Falls.  A canyon with South America’s largest waterfall. We visited the Brazilian side on one of our first trips to South America and have been waiting to return to see the Argentinian side. 

Peru Coast Travel Guide: Nazca Lines, Huacachina & Ancient Civilizations

Peru, Ancient Land of Mysteries 

Peru is known for many great things, including the ruins of ancient civilizations, stunning nature and an unparalleled level of cuisine. We toured Lima and explored the Peruvian coast visiting numerous towns by bus including Pisco, Paracas, Ica, Huacachina and Nasca. During our past two trips along the Peruvian Coast, we were able to have authentic and local experiences through our own exploration and the eyes of multiple friends we met along the way. 

Lima, The Capital of Peru 

Lima is an expansive coastal city with stunning ocean views, Spanish colonial architecture, ancient ruins, catacombs, important cultural sights and irresistible cuisine, especially the seafood. In fact, we credit this trip with converting us from vegetarians into pescatarians. Lima is often an entry point to the country and jumping off point for other Peruvian destinations. 

Lima Neighborhoods

Miraflores. Which translates to “Look at the Flowers” is a green neighborhood in the heart of the city with lush parks and coastal vistas. It’s an elevated area with modern skyscrapers, beautiful residences and many restaurants. 

• Locramar.  An outdoor shopping mall in Miraflores with stores, restaurants and bars built into a cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean. 

• Cat Park.  A tiny park, home to at least 100 kittens and cats cared for by the city. Come here to cuddle and play with them as they wander the park. 

• Love Park.  A park along the seaside cliff in Miraflores with a large terracotta sculpture of two lovers lying and embracing, wavy colorfully tiled walls and a fence with heart shaped locks. 

Barranco. A coastal neighborhood with an old world feel, local vibes and welcoming atmosphere. The neighborhood is walkable making it easy to spend time exploring by foot. We walked along narrow tree lined streets, through flowering parks, past historic buildings and admired the creative street art. There are plenty of bars, restaurants and coffee shops making it a lovely place to stay or visit. 

• Parque Federico Villarreal.  A park with an abandoned cathedral and a pedestrian walkway leading from the top of the neighborhood to a lookout over the ocean past several restaurants, bars, cafes, art galleries and shops. The lookout is a beautiful spot to watch the sunset. 

• Puente de los Suspiros.  A wooden pedestrian bridge with views of the walkway below. 

• Parque Municipal de Barranco.  A historic plaza in the heart of the neighborhood with colonial architecture including a yellow neoclassical cathedral, a pink library and reflecting pool with a Greek style fountain. 

Callao. A neighborhood known locally for its fishing port and seafood restaurants. We explored the streets and sights around the central plaza where we stopped to eat ceviche and drink pisco sours. The area outside of the central plaza is considered unsafe to visit. 

See the Sights & Museums 

Huaca Pucllana Site Museum.  An expansive adobe brick ruin that pre-dates the Incas. The grounds include the remains of a pyramid and many smaller structures. The pyramid is believed to have been used for ceremonial and sacrificial purposes. The ruins of other structures are thought to have been used for agricultural storage and administrative purposes for overseeing the civilization’s irrigation practices. 

The site is located in the middle of Lima, surrounded by modern civilization offering a unique contrast. It can only be toured by guide, available from the ticket office. With our guides, we spent over an hour walking its pathways, courtyards and on top of the massive structure. 

Paragliding.  The cliffs of Lima provide the perfect location for paragliding! Having never tried it before, we decided to give it a try. Taking off on an improvised fan powered parachute, we soared into the air. From above, we overlooked the Pacific coast and the entirely of Lima, flying between Miraflores and Barranco before landing back at the beach. Our flight lasted about 20 minutes. 

The Magic Water Circuit.  It sounds extra touristy (and it kind of is) but it doesn’t make it any less grand. You’ll be treated to a light and water show within the park’s fountains, depicting holograms, images and music telling the story of Peru.

The Catacombs.  A UNESCO World Heritage Site, located beneath the Basílica y Convento de San Francisco. The catacombs are lined with the skulls and bones of tens of thousands of humans, all uniquely organized and arranged in an array of terrifying yet beautiful patterns. No photos are allowed to be taken.

Plaza de Armas.  The city’s historic center and main plaza. It’s surrounded by stunning government buildings, palaces and cathedrals.

Larco Museum.  An exquisite collection of Peruvian ceramics and artifacts dating back thousands of years until the arrival of the Europeans. The museum categorizes the ceramics by period and civilization, going into great detail about their design, manufacturing and cultural significance. 

Other exhibits include one with erotic ceramics and a visible storage room. In addition to ceramics, some of the most interesting artifacts are textiles used for record keeping, a tunic made from macaw feathers, mummified remains, precious jewelry and the only complete royal funerary set with a golden mask, breast plate and headpiece. 

Museo Oro del Perú y Armas del Mundo.  A museum with gold and silver artifacts from past Peruvian civilization including jewelry, clothing, mugs, funeral offerings and carved stone weaponry. Some of the more fascinating artifacts are mummified remains, human skulls wearing ancient feathered headdresses, golden wall panels from the ancient city and gold plated blankets used by royals.

Fortaleza del Real Felipe.  A historic stone military fortress with a pentagon shaped structure, round guard towers, walls lined with hundreds of cannons and a central courtyard still used by the military today. The two guard towers are the most impressive to visit. We explored their labyrinth of rounded tunnels, ramps and staircases leading to rooms, chambers and lookouts. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Amankaya - Peruvian Food.  A delectable seafood restaurant built within a house in Miramar neighborhood of Lima. We came here for the fresh ceviche, buttery seafood rice, flamed mixed seafood scallops and chilcano cocktails. 

Coffeebrix.  A cute cafe for artisan coffees, breakfast toasts, egg dishes and croissants.

Curayacu Tiki Bar - Barranco.  Known as Peru’s first Tiki Bar, the mixologists at this hidden gem make inventive tiki drinks and the classics with Peruvian Rum and a theatrical performance sometimes including  elaborate presentations, torched garnishing or a seafaring story. The bar is located in the basement in the Barranco neighborhood with tiki decor, a tropical ambience and one of a kind mugs.

En Su Punto.  A seafood restaurant on a colorful street in Callao covered with umbrellas and banderas. We came here for their lunch specials and ordered the fried seafood chicharrón and ceviche for 25 Soles and 2 Pisco sours for 25 Soles.

Getting Around Lima

By Uber.  Getting to and from the airport or longer distances within the city is easiest by Uber. 

On Foot. The neighborhoods of Barranco and Miraflores are very walkable. We explore both on foot, even walking between them. 

Getting Around Peru

From Lima, it’s easy to get around the country by bus. During our past two trips to Peru, we took Perubus & Peru Hop. 

Perubus.  During our first trip to Peru, we used Perubus to travel between Lima, Pisco and Ica. Prices are extremely affordable, costing less than $10 for tickets between destinations with bus terminals in all three cities. 

Peru Hop.  The best way to get around Peru is by Peru Hop, a hop on hop off bus with destinations all across the coast from Lima, Paracas, Huacachina and Nazca into the Andes to Arequipa, Cusco and Puno (Lake Titicaca) then onward to Copacabana and La Paz, Bolivia. It is by far the best way to see Peru, allowing us to build our own itinerary, stopping at as many destinations along the way for as long as we would like. 

Paracas

Paracas is a fishing village and backpackers’ haven along the Pacific coast known for its marine nature reserves, sprawling desert sand dunes and a large geoglyph called the Candelabra. 

See the Sights

Paracas Harbor.  The harbor is dotted with fishing boats bringing the days catch to the waterfront restaurants lining the beach in town. Its city center is surrounded by hostels, tour companies and more restaurants and bars. We ate lunch at Restaurant Tipico Bahia, a restaurant on the waterfront serving local Peruvian dishes. We ordered the ceviche, Jalea (mixed fried seafood) and Cusqueñas.

Reserva Nacional de Paracas.  A national park in Paracas with a vast marine and desert reserve home to species of penguin, seabirds and sea lions. We explored The Ballestas Islands by boat, stopping at multiple locations to see penguins nesting, a large group of sea lions mating, flocks of birds feeding and a sea arch. Along the way, we passed the Paracas Candelabra, a massive geoglyph carved into the side of the mountain by an ancient civilization dating back 2,000 years. On land, we visited Playa Roja, a deep red sand beach along the cold Pacific waters. Above the beach, we stopped at Mirador Istmo II, a lookout with views of the shoreline and sprawling yellow sand desert. 

The Paracas Desert.  A vast desert stretching from the Pacific Coast to the Andes Mountains with a seemingly endless horizon of massive sand dunes. In town, there are a number of guides offering tours into the desert. We booked with one that took us on a wild dune ride that traversed the massive valleys of sand. Halfway through the tour, we stopped to try sand boarding for the first time. After several attempts, mostly involving tumbling down the dune and crawling back to the top, we eventually gave up. Afterwards, we stuck around late enough to watch the sunset.  

Getting to Paracas

The best way to visit Paracas is by Peru Bus or Peru Hop. Plan to arrive by mid morning to get to the Ballestas Islands. There are many speedboat companies along the harbor that offer 2 to 3 hour tours for less than $20 per person. Prices and times are comparable for Dune Tours. 

Pisco 

Home of Peru’s national drink, the Pisco Sour. Pisco is a spirit fermented from grapes and distilled in large copper basins. While staying in town with our friends’ relatives, we drank homemade Pisco and watched Peruvian late night television. The town is hyper local with a central square, very few travelers and tuk tuk taxis racing down the dusty streets. 

Here is a great recipe for a Pisco Sour:

• 2 oz Pisco 

• 3/4 oz fresh lime juice

• 1 oz simple syrup 

• 1 egg white 

• Angostura bitters 

Shake all ingredients vigorously for about 30 seconds, then add ice and shake for at least another 15 seconds. Strain into a chilled glass and garnish the frothy top with a few dashes of the bitters. 

Ica 

Ica is a region of the Peruvian desert at the base of the Andes Mountains with wine vineyards, Pisco distilleries, a desert oasis and nature reserves.

Peruvian Wines & Vineyards 

Though Peru is not widely known for its wines, many incredible vintages come out of the country’s Ica Valley. During our 3 weeks in Peru, we sampled multiple wines, piscos and visited a couple of vineyards

• Bodegas Vista Alegre.  One of Peru’s largest and oldest vineyards and Pisco distilleries. Rows of grape vines line the fields extending towards the edge of the Andes mountain range. We learned about how the grapes are harvested, toured the facilities where they are fermented, distilled and bottled before getting to enjoy some for ourselves. 

• Nietto Vineyard.  A vineyard and Pisco distillery in Ica. We stopped here on the Peru Hop bus and sampled at least a dozen wines and Piscos before enjoying a lunch with our guide. The atmosphere made for a lively and memorable experience!

• Vittoria Reserva Malbec, Valle de Ica, Peru. A flavorful, full bodied and dry red wine with rich fruity notes.

• Intipalka Vino Cabernet Sauvignon Syrah Réserva, Valle de Sol, Peru. An easy drinking mid to full bodied and dry red wine.

• Intipalka Reserva de Familia Malbec, Bakke de Ica, Peru.  A flavorful, dry and full bodied red wine. 

• Tacama Gran Tinto Tres Cepas Malbec, Petit Verdot & Tannat.  A popular mid bodied and dry Peruvian red wine sold across the country made from a blend of Malbec and Tannat.

• Tacama Gran Blanco.  A popular white wine sold across the country with a light body with a dry and stony flavor.

Getting Around Ica

By Taxi.  The best way to tour Ica is to hire a taxi driver for the day or afternoon. Many of them will bring you to various sights, recommend places to eat and wait for you while you explore. The cost will depend on how long you hire them for and what you negotiate. In our instance, we hired a taxi for 4 hours and it cost $30. 

Huacachina 

The Desert Oasis.  Huacachina is a picturesque desert oasis hidden between monstrous sand dunes home to a tiny lake surrounded by palm trees, hostels, restaurants and bars. The town is popular with backpackers and desert activities like dune buggy rides & sand boarding.

Experience the Sand Dunes

Huacachina Dunes.  We woke up early and climbed both dunes surrounding the oasis. From the top of the first crest, we ate breakfast with the company of a doggie that followed us up. On the second dune, the morning fog had cleared, revealing a clear blue sky above the beautiful oasis and the vast desert dunes rippling far across the horizon. 

Dune Rides & Sand Boarding.  We boarded a small dune buggy that rode into the desert for an exhilarating and heart dropping roller coaster ride through the dunes, drifting sideways across the sand and down steep dunes at high speeds. We stopped at multiple places for photos, sand boarding and the sunset. There were three dunes to sled, sand-board or ski down, each increasing in length and speed. 

Places to Eat, Drink & Stay

Viajero Hostel Huacachina.  With its inviting atmosphere and well run experience, Viajero is one of the best hostels we’ve stayed at! It has a large courtyard with a restaurant, bar, pool and numerous style lounge areas surrounded by multiple buildings home to dorms and private rooms. They offer nightly events to meet other guests and keep entertained including karaoke and dancing. Book here.

Vittoly Cafe.  A small cafe with breakfast dishes, to go empanadas and cookies. It’s a quick spot to stop on the way into or out of town for a bite to eat and refreshment. 

Huaca-Fucking-China.  An iconic restaurant and bar in Huacachina known for its name, Peruvian dishes and cocktails. Come here for a drink and meal overlooking the lake. 

Nasca

Nasca is a Peruvian desert city famed for the archeological ruins and remains of the Nazca civilization including the Nasca Lines, ancient aqueducts and cemeteries with mummified remains. 

The Nasca Lines

The Nasca Lines are some of the most significant archeological sights in Peru. Carved into the desert landscape by the Nasca people, the ancient geoglyphs depict animals, trees, people and mysterious shapes, some stretching hundreds of meters across. The lines can be observed from an observation tower or by flying above them. 

Nasca Lines Flight.  We took a flight over the Nasca Desert to view the Nasca Lines. During the flight, we flew over and circled many of the remarkable geo-glyphs including the most iconic like the spider, hummingbird, condor and monkey. In addition, we took in views of the desert landscape, farms and vineyards, foot hills of the Andes mountains and the world’s largest sand dune in the distance.

It is the best way to view a majority of the Nasca Lines though not the cheapest. The flight lasted about 30 minutes, costing $120 USD and 77 Sols in airport fees per person. The pilot circled about a dozen lines from both sides of the small plane as the co-pilot narrated. All 6 passengers, including us, had  an equal opportunity to view most of the lines.

Nasca Tower.  A roadside tower, about 4 stories tall, overlooking three of the Nasca Lines: one of a tree, one of hands and one of a salamander.

See the Sights 

Cantalloc Aqueducts.  A series of spiraled and circular stone aqueducts that drain into an underground canal for carrying water. Even during the peak of the dry season, the canal had flowing water while the adjacent river was completely dried up. They were built hundreds of years ago and are still in use today. 

Los Paredones.  The ruins of a terraced Incan city with trails leading past crumbling adobe brick walls, semi-restored buildings and broken fragments of ancient pottery scattered across the ground. It’s located about 20 minutes on foot from the Plaza de Armas. The ticket allows for access to other sights in the city including the Cantalloc Aqueducts.

Cementerio Chauchilla.  An ancient cemetery with the mummified and skeletal remains of the Nasca people dating back to 200 BCE. Inside the now exposed adobe brick tombs, bodies are buried facing east in an upright fetal position and wrapped in a basket of linens. Pottery holding objects meant for the afterlife are placed around them as their skulls stare outward bearing lengthy strands of braided hair. 

Due to grave robbing over the last century, bone fragments, torn linens and broken pottery from hundreds of tombs can be seen scattered across the landscape. Only the restored and preserved tombs are on display for viewing. The cemetery is located 45 min by car south of the city of Nasca.

Plaza de Armas.  The tree lined central plaza with fountains, benches and artwork depicting the Nasca Lines. It’s a popular spot for families to hang out at night.

Feria de Comerciantes de Nasca.  A traditional Peruvian fruit, vegetable and flower market with tables of vendors selling locally grown produce including avocado, blueberries, cherimoya, star fruit, passion fruit, giant squash, peanuts, farmer's cheese, breads and some meats. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Killa Cafe & Bar.  A restaurant and cafe with coffees and breakfast dishes. We stopped in shortly after arriving in Paracas on the morning Peru Hop bus from Lima. 

Mamashana.  A Peruvian restaurant with traditional dishes like Papa a la Huancana, Lomo Saltado, Chupe de Pescado and Potato Causas. 

Mom’s Cafe.  A café with empanadas, baked goods, coffees, sodas and beers. It’s a pick up and drop off location for the Peru Hop bus in Nasca. 

La Casa del Pisco Garcia.  A very local bar that serves various Piscos by the glass, carafe, full bottle or in cocktails. 

D’Gula Restaurant.  A Peruvian restaurant serving traditional dishes like causas, parihuela, lomo saltado and pasta cooked in huacallena sauce as well as Peruvian wines.

Street Tamales.  The city comes to life at 8am with the call of the Tamale Guy driving by announcing “tamales, tamales, tamales” from a speaker in his car. We bought some wrapped in banana leaves, made with corn masa, spices and heart of palm. 

Getting Around Nazca

On Foot.  Upon arrival in Nazca, the best way to see the city and get around to nearby sights is on foot. 

By Taxi.  For further away sights more than 30min on foot, we opted to hire a taxi. Taxi drivers are plentiful across the city and should cost 10-20 Sols for short distances and around 50 Sols for larger distances. 

Peruvian Cuisine 

With access to the Pacific Ocean, cuisine along the coast of Peru is seafood heavy with many other dishes made from Peruvian potatoes and corn as well as cocktails made with Pisco.

• Ceviche.  A Peruvian staple typically made from raw fish cured in lime juice with onions, sweet potato and cilantro. Try it with Leche de Tigre, a spicy marinade often served in ceviche. 

• Jalea.  Fried mixed seafood topped with pickled red onions, cilantro and tomato.

• Parihuela.  A fish stew made with white fish, shrimp, octopus and squid in a tomato broth. 

• Lomo Saltado.  A stir fried and flamed beef dish cooked in a pan at high heat with onions and soy sauce. It can also be made vegetarian with bell peppers, eggplant or tofu. 

• Potatoes.  Peru is known for having thousands of varieties of potatoes. They’re served mashed in causas, fried and in soups and stews. 

• Causa.  A pureed potato dish layered with fish, meats or veggies served cold. It’s a common appetizer at restaurants across the country.

• Papas de Huacallena.  A sliced potato dish covered in Huacallena sauce and served with sliced boiled eggs and olives.

• Huacallena Sauce.  A savory Peruvian sauce made from yellow peppers and cheese. It can be served hot or cold. 

• Choclo con Queso.  Boiled Peruvian corn wrapped in a grilled piece of Peruvian cheese. 

• Canchas.  Toasted or fried Peruvian Corn served as a snack at restaurants or garnish in various dishes. 

• Pisco Sour.  Peru’s national drink made from Pisco, lime juice, simple syrup and egg whites all mixed together.

• Chilcano.  A Peruvian cocktail made with Pisco, lime juice and ginger ale. We ordered the traditional version and one with passion fruit multiple times. 

• Inka Cola.  A yellow soda popular across Peru with a tutti frutti flavor. Coming from the Midwest, it tastes similar to Faygo Rock n Rye. 

• Cusqueña.  One of Peru’s national beers easily identifiable by its bottle cap with Machu Picchu on it and a bottle embossed in Incan stone work. It comes in three varieties, Dorado (Golden), Wheat and Negro (Stout). 

Elsewhere in Peru 

From the desert coast and ancient civilizations of the Nazca region to the heights of the Andes and sacred waters of Lake Titicaca, discover more of Peru through these travel guides:

Peru Andes Travel Guide: Machu Picchu, Cusco & Inca Ruins.  Wander through Peru's Andes where ancient Inca ruins, terraced farmland, colorful mountain landscapes and Andean communities preserve centuries of tradition.

Arequipa Peru Travel Guide: Colonial Architecture, Food & Culture.  Explore Arequipa's historic streets where colonial architecture, regional cuisine and volcanic landscapes shape one of Peru's cultural capitals.

Lake Titicaca Travel Guide: Floating Islands & Indigenous Culture.  Voyage between Lake Titicaca's floating islands and lakeside communities where Indigenous culture, Andean traditions and centuries of history live on.

For Next Time… 

Having visited Peru twice for a total of 4 weeks, we continue to discover more places to visit and sights to see. On our third trip, we hope to venture deep into The Peruvian Amazon to the cities of Iquitos and Puerto Maldonado as well as some national parks like the Tambopata National Reserve and Bahuaja-Sonene National Park. 

Arequipa Peru Travel Guide: Colonial Architecture, Food & Culture

Arequipa, Peru’s Second City

Arequipa, Peru’s second city, is widely considered its most beautiful with ornate white stone buildings set against the backdrop of multiple volcanoes. The city is a cultural hub with indigenous artisans manufacturing goods from alpaca and vicuña wool. It’s recognized as the gastronomic center of Peru for its cuisine with local dishes and Peruvian classics. Located between the Andes Mountains and Pacific Coast, its year round temperate climate makes it a popular destination with cool nights and warm sunny days. 

Neighborhoods & Streets

Centro Histórico.  The historic center of Arequipa centered on the Plaza de Armas with the largest collection of baroque style buildings, museums and landmark sights. 

Lázaro Neighborhood.  The oldest neighborhood in Arequipa with white stone walls, cobblestone streets and a small central plaza with cafes and bars. 

Yanahuara Neighborhood.  A neighborhood across the river from the Centro Historico with views overlooking the city and volcanoes.

Calle Santa Catalina.  A street through the Centro Historico with restaurants, cafes, bars and shops selling alpaca clothes and accessories. 

Things to Do 

Pose with the Alpaca Ladies.  A group of indigenous women dressed in traditional clothing walking baby alpacas. Pose with them and the alpaca for a small tip. When posing for photo, make sure to tip each woman individually. 

Puente Grau.  Walk across the Puente Grau bridge with views of the Misti and Chachani volcanoes.

Eat & Drink at Rooftop Restaurant.  Many restaurants have rooftop terraces and bars across Arequipa. They’re popular for leisurely breakfasts, enjoying views of the city, volcanoes and sunsets.

Alpaca Shopping.  Go shopping for alpaca, llama or vicuna fur clothes, accessories or home goods. 

Admire The White City.  Arequipa is called “The White City” for its buildings made from white volcanic stone and their ornate baroque style facades. We walked around the city admiring the architecture and touring landmark buildings. There are also walking tours in the Plaza de Armas based on tips. 

See the Sights 

Plaza de Armas.  A palm lined plaza at the heart of Arequipa’s historic neighborhood surrounded by white arched buildings and centered on the Basílica of Arequipa. It’s a culture center where locals come to relax and the city hosts events like live music and artisan markets.  

Basílica of Arequipa.  A grand neo-gothic and renaissance style cathedral with two bell towers and ornate masonry built from white volcanic stone.

Cloisters of The Company.  Two plazas with ornate white stone cloisters in the historic center of Arequipa home to cafes, bars and clothing stores selling alpaca and vicuña products.  

Mirador Yanahuara.  A palm lined plaza with an arched wall and lookout over the historic center of Arequipa and the Misti Volcano. 

Santa Catalina Monastery.  This large colonial monastery is a city within a city surrounded by a stone wall. It’s defined by its maze of narrow cobblestone streets with their own names and vibrantly painted red walls. Branching off of the streets are individual homes for the nuns, blue painted cloisters, chapels with religious artwork and lush courtyards including one where we stopped for an afternoon wine.

Visit the Museums 

Mundo Alpaca.  A free museum dedicated to Andean wool and the artistry used to transform it into vibrant textiles. The museum has a feeding enclosure with lively llamas, alpacas and vicuñas. Workers sort wool fibers while indigenous women weave beautiful blankets using traditional methods.

MUCEN Arequipa.  A small museum in a historic building with a collection of Peruvian pottery organized by period of time, civilization and geographic regions across the country. Separate galleries display Arequipa style religious artwork and early forms of Peruvian currency. The museum is free to enter. 

Places to Shop

Arequipa is a hub for Peruvian alpaca and vicuñas textiles, clothing and accessories including ponchos, sweaters, hats, gloves, blankets and yarn. We shopped at high end clothing stores, artisan markets and souvenir style shops. The higher end shops offered seasonal discounts ranging from 10-40% off while prices were negotiable at the artisan markets and souvenir style shops. 

Sol Alpaca.  A higher end shop with finer grades of alpaca and vicuñas wool clothing and accessories made with modern designs and patterns. We bought a poncho and hat. 

Carasco Company.  A historic hat maker that sells traditional Peruvian style hats made from alpaca fibers. I bought a blue wool hat with a yellow band. 

Qori Kancha.  A shop that sells lesser grade alpaca wool clothing and accessories made with traditional designs and patterns. I bought a blue and red traditional style poncho with a geometric pattern from here.

Festival Artesanal Productores Arequipeños.  A popup market near the Plaza de Armas with tents of local artisans knitting and selling alpaca fiber clothing and accessories. I bought a sweater with the design of a vicuña embroidered on it. 

Fundo El Fierro Arequipa.  An artisan craft market in the alleyway, plaza and market surrounding the Plaza de San Francisco. Come here for all manner of alpaca products, handmade items, gifts and souvenirs. 

Arequipa Cuisine

Arequipa is recognized as a gastronomic hub for its cuisine and cultural significance in Peru. While here, we shopped and ate at the local market, dined at picantereas, tasted the street food and enjoyed rooftop cafes and bars. 

Picantereas.  A type of restaurant local to Arequipa known for spicy food.

Chupe de Camarones.  A shrimp stew with potatoes and rice cooked in a spicy and creamy broth. It’s a popular dish local to Arequipa and sold at picantereas across the city.

Tantawawa.  A Peruvian bread made specifically for Dia de los Muertos. It’s a spiced brioche style loaf commonly braided into the shape of a swaddled infant, llama or basket decorated in sesame seeds and colorful sprinkles. 

Queso Helado.  An ice-cream made from local cheese. It’s commonly sold by the cup on the street. 

Choclo con Queso.  Boiled Peruvian corn wrapped in a grilled piece of Peruvian cheese. 

Alpaca & Guinea Pig.  We don’t eat meat however we saw both animals on the menu in restaurants across the city. Alpaca can be served as a steak while guinea pigs are often served whole.

Picarones.  A fried potato based donut served with honey. 

Ocopa Sauce.  A yellow creamy sauce made from peppers, cilantro and cheese. It’s often used to cover potato and meat dishes. 

Chicha.  A fermented drink made from purple corn. It was popular during the Incan times and is still drunk today by itself or as an ingredient in cocktails. 

Cusqueña.  One of Peru’s national beers easily identifiable by its bottle cap with Machu Picchu on it and a bottle embossed in Incan stone work. It comes in three varieties, Dorado (Golden), Wheat and Negro (Stout). 

Chilcano.  A Peruvian cocktail made with Pisco, lime juice and ginger ale. We ordered the traditional version and one with passion fruit multiple times, even making our own using this recipe. 

• 2.5 oz Pisco (plain or with passion fruit)

• 0.5 oz Fresh lime juice

• 12 oz Ginger ale

• 2 dashes Angostura bitters

• Stir together with ice

San Camilo Market.  A central market with vendors selling fruit from towering shelves, baskets filled with potatoes, wheels of Peruvian cheese, aisles of freshly butchered meat and fish, pillowy breads, purple and yellow chicha, bins of coca leaves and rows of textiles. We left with a bag of breads and fruits including dragonfruit, cherimoya, pepinos, melones, avocado and blueberries. 

Another reason to visit the market is for the street food and inexpensive lunches. We bought potato salteñas and empanadas from a vendor outside of the market and sat down at one of the restaurants inside for pescado frito con arroz verde and a Cusqueña, only spending 10 Soles per plate. 

Places to Eat and Drink

Chicha por Gastón Acurio.  An elegant restaurant with a warm terracotta colored interior lined with Peruvian clay pots and suspended basket lights. The menu includes traditional Peruvian cuisine like guinea pig and alpaca dishes, purple corn (chicha), different types of ceviche, chupe de camarón, picarones, Peruvian wine and cocktails like the pisco sour and chilcano. We came here with friends to celebrate Devin’s 30th birthday! 

La Huerta del Loncco.  A lunch spot with contemporary Peruvian dishes and a shaded outdoor patio overlooking the city. We ordered the choclo con queso, ceviche, potatoes and grilled seafood in ocopa sauce and queso salad. 

Dimas Restaurante.  A charming restaurant inside a vaulted white volcanic stone dining room with a range of Peruvian and international dishes. We shared the broccoli cream soup and tuna tartare made with avocado, mango and passion fruit. 

Zig Zag Restaurant.  A restaurant that specializes in meat dishes and wines. We came here to enjoy a carafe of sangria before dinner in their historic dining room built from white volcanic stones and a wrought iron spiral staircase designed by Gustave Eiffel.

Puku Puku Arequipa.  A rooftop cafe with views of the mountains and volcanoes. We came here in the morning for breakfast pastries and ordered Peruvian roasted coffee brewed in a French press and Chemex. They also offer coffee brewed by Aeropress or espresso carafe. 

Amaray.  A cafe and restaurant on the second floor of an arched building overlooking the Plaza de Armas and Basílica of Arequipa. 

Museo del Pisco.  A Pisco bar in a historic building made from Arequipa’s iconic white stones. Come here to order Pisco cocktails, taste various types of Pisco or join mixology class.

Zingaro Wine Bar.  A wine bar and shop with Peruvian wines. We bought and shared multiple bottles from here including Vittoria Reserva Malbec from the Valle de Ica, Peru and Intipalka Vino Cabernet Sauvignon Syrah Réserva from the Valle de Sol, Peru. 

Sunset Rooftop Bar.  A rooftop bar at the Le Foyer Hotel with views of the sunset, city, mountains and volcanos. We came here for smoked chicha and Pisco cocktails.

Where to Stay

We stayed at two accommodations during our time in Arequipa: an Airbnb and a boutique hotel.

Historic Airbnb.  A spacious rental unit in a white volcanic stone and arched room. The public spaces included a living room, luggage lockers and kitchen. 

Le Foyer Arequipa.  A boutique hotel with simple rooms, luggage store and a rooftop bar. 

Katari Hotel At Plaza De Armas.  A luxury hotel in the central plaza with beautifully decorated rooms and a roof top restaurant. We visited a friend that was staying here. 

Location Specifics

Sand Flies.  An insect similar to mosquitos. They leave much larger welts after sucking blood.  They were present in October and November in Arequipa. 

Language.  Spanish is the most common and widely spoken language. Few people speak English. 

Cash vs Card. Both cash and card were widely accepted. Carry coins and small bills for street food and markets.

Elsewhere in Peru 

From colonial cities and landscapes to the Andes mountains, desert coast and Lake Titicaca, discover more of Peru beyond Arequipa through these travel guides: 

Peru Coast Travel Guide: Nazca Lines, Huacachina & Ancient Civilizations.  Venture along Peru's coast where ancient civilizations, desert oases, vineyards and world renowned cuisine shape one of South America's most unique regions.

Peru Andes Travel Guide: Machu Picchu, Cusco & Inca Ruins.  Wander through Peru's Andes where ancient Inca ruins, terraced farmland, colorful mountain landscapes and Andean communities preserve centuries of tradition.

Lake Titicaca Travel Guide: Floating Islands & Indigenous Culture.  Voyage between Lake Titicaca's floating islands and lakeside communities where Indigenous culture, Andean traditions and centuries of history live on.

For Next Time…

Next time we visit Arequipa, we plan to venture out of the city and see some of the regions most impressive sights.

• Reserva Nacional de Salinas y Aguada Blanca.  A high altitude nature reserve home to vicuñas, alpaca and flamingos with a dry grassy landscape, mountains, volcanoes, salt water lagoons and rivers. We drove through here on our way to Cusco spotting large groups of vicuñas, llamas and alpaca grazing in the dry grassy terrain as well as bright pink flamingos contrasted against the dark color of the mountain lagoons. Along the road, as we continued into the Andes, we passed through small towns with indigenous Peruvians dressed in colorful attire and freshly shaved llamas wearing coats. 

• Colca Canyon.  The second deepest canyon in the world surrounded by steep mountains and snow covered volcanoes. We would love to visit to spot the condors, hike its trails, swim in the natural hot springs and raft in the Colca River. 

• El Misti Volcano.  The prominent conical shaped volcano seen from Arequipa. We would love to take an overnight hike to reach its summit at an elevation over 19,000 ft. 

Peru Andes Travel Guide: Machu Picchu, Cusco & Inca Ruins

The Peruvian Andes

The Peruvian Andes is a breathtaking region, both in altitude and natural beauty. Its mountainous landscape is covered in Incan ruins, snow covered peaks, colorful valleys and terraced farmland with herds of alpaca and llama. 

Cusco & The Incan Empire 

Within the mountains is the city of Cusco, a sprawling metropolis home to ruins of the Incan empire and pre-colonial civilizations. It’s the branching off point for Machu Picchu and numerous sights in The Sacred Valley. Having previously visited Machu Picchu, we used our second trip into the Peruvian Andes to see sights we missed in Cusco and the Sacred Valley.

Machu Picchu

Hidden for centuries, Machu Picchu is known as The Lost City of the Incas. The sprawling ruins of the ancient acropolis rest atop a mountain set against the dramatic Andean landscape. The citadel is comprised of residential neighborhoods, layers of agricultural terraces, stone storage structures, ceremonial temples and a central plaza with free roaming llamas. We spent a half day meandering through the ruins of the city, observing it from scenic overlooks and hiking partly along the Inca Trail. 

Tips for Visiting:

Access.  When we visited in 2016, only 2,500 people were allowed to visit Machu Picchu per day. At the time, we were free to access most areas of the ancient city. As of 2024, the limit has been increased to 4,500 people and “circuits” have been established, regulating the specific areas visitors can access. 

Tickets. Book tickets months ahead of time. Given the new “circuits”, it’s best to visit over a two day period booking multiple tickets to see more of the ancient city. 

Inca Rail. One of the train companies offering roundtrip rides between Cusco and Machu Picchu through the Sacred Valley. The train has a vintage feel with green painted historic carriages and large viewing windows. 

Aguas Calientes

The town at the base of Machu Picchu with hotels, restaurants, bars, an artisan market and thermal hot springs. 

• Mercado Artesanal.  A sprawling artisan market with aisles of vendors selling Peruvian textiles, woven goods and souvenirs underneath a corrugated sheet metal roof. We haggled for a baby alpaca blanket and hand painted coasters. 

• Baños Termales.  The thermal hot springs the town of Aguas Calientes is named after. We came here late in the afternoon to relax in the warm water pools before catching our train back to Cusco. 

• Imperio de los Incas.  A road along the Urubamba River with restaurants, bars and hotels overlooking the rapids and riverbank. 

Sacred Valley 

The Sacred Valley follows the Urubamba River from Cusco to Machu Picchu past some of the Incan Empire’s most important sights including: Pisac, Salineras de Maras, Moray Terraces and Ollantaytambo. We took a full day private tour from Cusco that brought us to all four sights. Book here.

Pisac Ruins

The Pisac Ruins are home to sprawling agricultural terraces covering the hillside leading to the ruins of a mountaintop city with a maze of stone buildings and staircases leading to its summit overlooking the valley. Along the terraces, llamas and alpacas roam free feeding on the grass. Behind the ancient city is a cemetery built into the vertical cliff with holes where the Incas would bury their dead.

Salineras de Maras

Salineras de Maras is a series of terraced salt pools ranging in color from white to light blue, beige and brown with thin layers of salty spring fed water covering their surfaces. Many of the terraces predate the Incans and are still in use for harvesting salt. There are routes with overlooks above the terraces to admire their beauty and structure. 

Moray Terraces

The Moray Terraces are a series of circular and organic agricultural terraces built into a mountain valley by the Incans to test crop production. We walked around the terraces, following a series of trails that weave through them with views of the snow covered Andes Mountains in the background. The largest terrace is restored while the two small ones remain ruins. 

Ollantaytambo

Ollantaytambo is an Incan city built into the valley and up the mountainside with large agricultural terraces, grain storage buildings, a temple dedicated to the worship of the sun and winding hiking trails. We explored the ruins, hiking up the terraces to the Temple of the Sun and through the city. The stone roads, walls and irrigation canals from the Incan city remain and have been built upon by modern day Peruvians. The town has many hostels, restaurants, cafes and textile shops. 

Ñaupa Iglesia 

Ñaupa Iglesia is a hidden temple located above a terraced agricultural slope on the side of the mountain near Ollantaytambo. We hiked the terraces to a hidden temple with a niche and throne carved into the rock protruding from the entrance of a cave.

The Rainbow Mountain & Red Valley 

The Rainbow Mountain & Red Valley are two recently discovered geological rock formations in the Peruvian Andes with vibrantly colored sediment. 

The Rainbow Mountain

The Rainbow Mountain is a remote mountain in the Peruvian Andes with bands of oxidized minerals creating a rainbow effect in the soil. The view from the mountain’s summit is awe inspiring! At 5,036 meters (17,060 feet), the summit has views of the rainbow bands, moss covered valley and distant snow capped Andean mountains. It’s a popular destination with thousands of visitors per day coming to overlook the landscape. There are indigenous Peruvians with pairs of colorfully accessorized llamas posing for photos for a small donation. 

The Red Valley

The Red Valley is a valley with blood red soil and green moss spanning between two mountains on the other side of the rainbow mountain. The panoramic view from the crest overlooking the valley is a surreal experience that left us feeling tiny compared to the surrounding world. Along the trail, we passed colorful stones, vibrant green moss and observed magnificent views of the mountains and glaciers. It is far less touristy with less than a dozen visitors. 

Getting Here.‍ ‍We visited both the Rainbow Mountain and Red Valley on a small group guided tour from Cusco. It included transportation, breakfast and lunch. Starting at 4:30am, we drove from Cusco high into the Andes along narrow switchback roads, past terraced fields and countless llamas to reach the trail head. It took 45 minutes to hike uphill to reach the Rainbow Mountain and 25 minutes further to reach the Red Valley. We felt good enough to hike the trail but for those with altitude sickness, there are horses, motorbikes and quads for hire. Book here.

Cusco, Peru 

Cusco is a modern city at the heart of the Incan Empire in the Andes Mountains with archeological ruins, historic neighborhoods, museums and beautiful landscapes. 

Neighborhoods

San Blas Neighborhood.  A trendy yet quiet neighborhood with ancient Incan roads, steep staircases and narrow cobblestone streets home to a variety of cafes, restaurants, boutiques, art galleries, tattoo shops and small convenience stores.  Many of the buildings are painted white with blue wooden doors, wall hung planters and vibrant murals. The neighborhood is close to several Incan ruins, the central plaza and has panoramic views of the Cusco Valley, its clay tiled roofs by day and twinkling lights at night.

Coripata.  A bustling local neighborhood, you won’t spot another tourist here! There are women selling boiled quail eggs, fresh juice, wheelbarrows and blankets with fruit, fried plantain chips and ice-cream from carts.

Santa Catalina.  A quieter local neighborhood with an arch along its main road, chain hostels, stray dogs and city views. There’s not much going on in terms of restaurants, cafes, bars or nightlife. 

Centro Histórico.  The central neighborhood of Cusco is home to the grand plazas, large stone cathedrals, historic architecture, Peruvian restaurants, clothing shops, souvenir stores and hotels. It’s a touristy area with peddlers calling you into their restaurants, trying to sell something or offering massages.

Visit the Incan Ruins

Cusco, the center of the Incan Empire, is home to numerous ruins, ancient stone streets and former temples. We walked across the city visiting several of the sights during our stay. 

Sacsayhuaman.  The citadel of the Incan empire with a large stone fortress, royal thrones, carved rock temples, agricultural terraces and aqueducts. 

• Muyuq Marka. The central fortress made from three terraced stone walls shaped in a zig zag pattern with stone gates, guard posts, astronomical temples and platforms to store water. 

• Trono del Inca.  A rock formation with thrones carved into it overlooking the fortress and Cusco valley.

• Explanada.  A central field with views of the stone walls and throne, home to a small herd of grazing alpacas. 

• Rodadero.  A rock formation used as a stone quarry with section of carved stone, upside down stairs and a natural slide polished smooth over hundreds of years by people sliding down it. We joined the locals and slid down its surface with ease. 

• Chincana Chica.  An underground cave leading through a narrow stone passageway used by the Incas for worship and storage. 

• Qochas Chincanas.  A circular arena with a grassy field and stone bleachers surrounding it used for celebrations and sacrifices. 

Q’enco.  Stone ruins of a ceremonial site used by the Incas to sacrifice humans and animals. We followed a guided path through an amphitheater used to watch sacrifices, past observation thrones, stone sacrificial beds, pools for blood to accumulate, through caves used to leave offerings and a canal for blood to flow along, including one shaped like a snake. The top is forbidden to walk on. 

Q’enco Chico.  A smaller ceremonial site below Q’enco used for the same sacrificial purposes. Unlike Q’enco, this site can be walked on and explored more freely. Today, it’s a popular picnic sight. 

Calle Hatunrumiyoc.  A historic street with Incan stone walls on both sides. It’s a good place to see the complexity of the stonework made by the Incans. The most prominent feature is Piedra de los 12 Ángulos, a large stone carved with 12 corners and perfectly fitted with the surrounding stones. 

Calle de Siete Culebras.  An Incan street with stone walls and carvings of snakes. 

Qorikancha Temple (Golden Temple of the Sun).  The ruins of an Incan temple dedicated to the worship of the sun. Prior to the Spanish conquest, the temple was plated in gold. It was stripped off and a cathedral was built on top of its walls. The temple remains mostly intact and can be toured from within the cathedral. We climbed the bell tower of the cathedral overlooking Cusco. 

Sapantiana Aqueduct.  An ancient stone aqueduct bridge and canal used to transport water by the Incas and still used today.

See the Sights & Museums

Plaza Mayor.  The central plaza in Cusco with two large cathedrals, balcony lined buildings, flowering gardens and a central monument dedicated to the Incas. It is a hub for restaurants, tour companies, massage parlors, textile stores and souvenir shops.

Cusco Cathedral.  The cathedral at the south side of Plaza Mayor with an ornate stone facade and two large bell towers. We toured the gold gilded interior, visited the crypt and climbed to the second level of both bell towers overlooking the plaza. 

Museo de Arte Pre-Columbia.  A museum dedicated to the pre-Columbian civilizations and cultures of ancient Peru. The ground floor galleries separate artifacts by the material they are made from including shell, silver, gold, wood, stone and ceramic. The second floor galleries separate artifacts by the regions and cultures of ancient Peru through Incan times to the Spanish conquest. 

Qorikancha Museum.  An underground museum beneath the lawn outside of the Qorikancha Temple with artifacts including ceramics, textiles, mummified remains and skulls with surgical markings and deformations. The museum exits through the lawn with the ruins of Incan stones and an aqueduct.  

Plaza San Blas.  A plaza with a large fountain, church, small museums, an artisan market and shops.

Mirador San Blas.  A romantic plaza with views of the neighborhood and Cusco. Couples attach love locks to the rails and make out on the park benches. 

The San Cristóbal Viewpoint.  A scenic lookout above Cusco with panoramic views of the clay tiled roofs of the city, the stone cathedrals and the distant hillside. 

The Cristo Blanco Viewpoint.  A lookout high above the city with a small white painted copy of Rio's Christ the Redeemer.

Shop the Markets 

San Blas Market.  A small neighborhood market catering to a mix of locals, expats and backpackers with vendors offering a robust mix of fresh produce, vegetables, meats, fish, dairy and dry goods. We bought a variety of Peruvian potatoes, squash, fruits, Andean cheese, eggs, milk, butter, flour and yeast to cook meals throughout the week.

The market is the perfect spot for a local lunch with restaurants serving Peruvian and vegan cuisine. We ate at Cevicheria de Yanet, sharing a bowl of mixed ceviche made with squid, trout and mackerel. It came with sides of chicharrón de calamari, seafood soup, canchas and homemade chicha. 

San Pedro Market.  A large and colorful market with vendors selling handicrafts, fruits, vegetables, grains, herbal remedies, snacks, candies, flowers and meats. The meat market is a bit intense with butchers selling whole pigs, skinned horse heads, bloody bull horns and organs. 

The most popular reason to come here is for the fresh juices, Peruvian style street food and aisles of small restaurant stands. The cooks at each stand called for us to sit down, competing with their neighbors, as we walked past the benches of customers and busy kitchens with large steaming pots. After scanning the menus, we sat down and ordered a plate of fried trout with lentils, rice, salad and a bowl of vegetable soup for 8 Soles each. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Fusion Andina.  A restaurant overlooking Plaza Mayor and the city’s hillside with a menu of Peruvian and Andean cuisine. We came here for dinner, overlooking the twinkling lights of the city at night while sipping on Peruvian wine. The menu includes dishes made with Andean trout, alpaca and guinea pig.  

Ofrenda Peruvian Healthy Food.  A Peruvian restaurant with colorful and beautifully plated meals and desserts. Come for the causas, ceviche, cheesecake and chocolate cake.

Café Dwasi.  Come here for their specialty coffee, cappuccinos with llama artwork foam and breakfast dishes like pancakes or omelets. 

Kaldi Coffee.  A café and bar in San Blas with rooftop views of Cusco, artisan coffees, empanadas, ice cream and cocktails. 

Cafetoe.  A coffee shop on the corner of Plaza Mayor with balconies overlooking it. We came here one chilly night for a Peruvian hot chocolate, made from milk and cocoa powder.

ERA.  A rooftop bar in San Blas above the Mirador de San Blas overlooking Cusco. Come here for the 2 x 30 Sol happy hour with Pisco cocktails.

Something Special.  A restaurant and bar with views overlooking the clay tiled roofs, Plaza Mayor and Viva El Peru sign. We ordered a chicha Pisco sour and Cerveza Raymi, an artisan Cusco brewed beer.

Pizzos.  Come here for the clay oven pizzas and cocktails. They have a 2 x 25 Sol happy hour for regular and flavored Pisco Sours.

KM.0.  A restaurant and cocktail bar with a long list of drinks and a 2 x 28 Sol happy hour. 

Barden.  A bar and restaurant with a terrace overlooking Cusco and a garden with warm string lights suspended from the trees above. 

Peruvian & Andean Cuisine

Coca Tea.  The popular Peruvian herbal tea made from the leaves of the coca plant used to combat altitude sickness. After drinking the tea, it’s common to chew on the leaves for their medicinal properties.

Trout.  Andean trout is abundant in the high mountain lakes and rivers. It’s served grilled, fried and as ceviche. 

Potatoes.  Peru is known for having thousands of varieties of potatoes. They’re served mashed in causas, fries and in soups & stews. 

Choclo con Queso.  Boiled Peruvian corn wrapped in a grilled piece of Peruvian cheese. 

Alpaca & Guinea Pig.  We don’t eat meat however; we saw both animals on the menu in restaurants across the city. Alpaca can be served as a steak while guinea pigs are often served whole.

Tumbo.  A popular Peruvian fruit that’s a cross between a passion fruit and pomegranate. 

Cherimoya.  A green scalloped tropical fruit with a custardy interior and large black seeds with a taste similar to strawberry ice cream.

Cusqueña.  One of Peru’s national beers easily identifiable by its bottle cap with Machu Picchu on it and a bottle embossed in Incan stone work. It comes in three varieties, Dorado (Golden), Wheat and Negro (Stout). 

Inka Chips.  A local brand of potato chips made from Peruvian potatoes. 

Where to Stay

Inti Wasy.  We stayed at an Airbnb in San Blas neighborhood with panoramic views of the Cusco Valley. The private apartment had a comfy bed, well outfitted kitchen and laundry machine. The space feels authentic with Incan and Peruvian decor. We were thankful to have an incredibly kind host and family of doggies to greet us throughout our stay. Book here.

Cusco Plaza Hostel.  A boutique hotel on the corner of the Plaza Mayor in the city center. We visited a friend of ours staying here. The rooms are basic but the rooftop is a tranquil place to enjoy a bottle of Peruvian wine and the views of the city’s rooftops and cathedrals. Book here.

Location Specifics

The Boleto de Turístico.  A ticket that includes entry to a majority of the Incan ruins in Cusco and the surrounding valleys as well as several museums in the city. Tickets can only be purchased by cash in person at the tourist office one block from the Plaza de Armas.

The Altitude.  Cusco is 3,339 meters (11,152 ft) above sea level. It takes some adjusting to get used to. After a few days, we no longer felt winded or tired. 

Language.  People in Cusco speak Spanish. Outside of the restaurants and shops in the Centro Historico, few locals speak English. 

Cash vs. Card.  Cash is preferred at businesses and museums across Cusco. When using Peruvian Sols, make sure to carry small bills and coins.

Elsewhere in Peru 

From the peaks of the Andes and Machu Picchu to Peru's desert coast, colonial cities and high altitude lakes, continue exploring Peru's diverse landscapes and cultures through these travel guides:

Peru Coast Travel Guide: Nazca Lines, Huacachina & Ancient Civilizations.  Venture along Peru's coast where ancient civilizations, desert oases, vineyards and world renowned cuisine shape one of South America's most unique regions.

Arequipa Peru Travel Guide: Colonial Architecture, Food & Culture.  Explore Arequipa's historic streets where colonial architecture, regional cuisine and volcanic landscapes shape one of Peru's cultural capitals.

Lake Titicaca Travel Guide: Floating Islands & Indigenous Culture.  Voyage between Lake Titicaca's floating islands and lakeside communities where Indigenous culture, Andean traditions and centuries of history live on.

For Next Time…

Return to Machu Picchu.  We visited the ancient Incan city in 2016, passing it by on our recent trip to Cusco. When we return for a third time, we would love to revisit the awe inspiring world wonder that is Machu Picchu. 

Ollantaytambo.  Our tour of the Sacred Valley did not include enough time at Ollantaytambo. Next time, we plan to stay at one of the hostels and take at least an entire day to explore the ruins, mountain trails and terraces. 

Skylodge.  Having seen the iconic cliffside hotel made from geometric glass pods suspended from the mountainside, we fully intend to stay here during our next trip to the Sacred Valley. 

Visit The South Valley.  We had a tour booked to visit the Incan and Wari ruins in the South Valley but couldn’t make it due to an emergency. This will be one of the first sights we see next time in Cusco. 

The Mountain Lakes.  Due to melting ice, several mountain lakes and lagoons have formed over the past decades. The most famous are Humantay Lake with turquoise waters and Laguna Roja with chocolaty red waters. 

Salar de Uyuni Travel Guide: Salt Flats, Lagoons & Desert Landscapes

Bolivia’s Desert Landscapes

The Bolivian Desert hosts some of South America’s most stunning natural sights. Within its expanse are the world’s largest salt flats, a staggering number of volcanoes, colorful lagoons, abstract desert rock formations, geysers and hot springs. We spent four days road tripping across the desert, traveling hundreds of miles from La Paz and ending in the Chilean Atacama Desert. 

The Uyuni Salt Flats

The Uyuni Salt Flats are the largest salt flats on the planet in the high Andes of Bolivia. We visited during the dry season when the salt created crusty white geometric patterns across the vast landscape. 

After taking an overnight bus from La Paz, we drove far into the salt flats, away from civilization, where it was eerily quiet. We looked across the landscape admiring the bright white salt contrasted against the deep blue sky with silhouettes of volcanoes and mountains on the horizon. Mirages formed making it appear as if some mountains were floating. Off of our periphery, spiraling dust devils lurked in the distance while lightning from a storm latticed from dark clouds above the Andes. Due to the vast flatness, one of the big draws is to take forced perspective photos! Our guide took multiple photos of us and our group.

Isla Incahuasi

Isla Incahuasi is a volcanic island in the middle of the Uyuni Salt Flats covered in cacti, fossilized coral and stromatolites from when the area was a saltwater sea. A trail across the island leads to its summit with panoramic views of the salt flats and mountains in the distance. We visited in the southern spring (November) when many of the cacti were blossoming with white tuft-like flowers. Some of the cacti are over 1,000 years old and can live up to 2,500 years.

The Train Graveyard

The Train Graveyard consists of rusted out track vintage train engines and cars. While here, we climbed on and inside the relics, snapping a few photos for the gram. It’s typically the first stop on any Uyuni tour.

(Off) Road Trip 

After Uyuni, we began our road trip across the Bolivian Desert down a bumpy dirt road past golden brown craggily fields with salt deposits, short dry shrubs and the cutest wild vicuñas. A cloud of dust followed us while no other cars were to be seen for many miles emphasizing the remoteness of the landscape. Reddish brown volcanic mountain ranges stretch across the horizon reaching towards the blue sky painted with wispy white clouds. We continued for the next two days, visiting volcanic lookouts, colorful lagoons, desert rock formations and geothermal areas. 

Bolivia’s Volcanoes 

The Coral Garden.  Our first stop brought us to an ancient coral garden. The landscape is covered in fossilized coral formations with jagged edges and tubular structures pushed up from the sea to 3,700 meters by the Andes over the past 11 million years. No longer home to marine life, small lizards, doves and mice inhabit the corals surrounded by prickly desert shrubs. 

Chiguana Salt Flat.  Our second stop brought us to the Chiguana Salt Flat surrounded by dozens of volcanoes along the Bolivia/Chile boarder. We continued through extremely rugged and bumpy off roads across the desert while admiring the volcanic landscape as we slowly climbed in altitude. 

Ollagüe Volcano Viewpoint.  At 4,200 meters, we stopped to look over the volcanic landscape and Bolivia’s only semi-active volcano, Ollagüe Volcano. We walked along ancient lava flows and past nodules of vibrant green moss to the lookout. The caldera of the volcano is colored greenish yellow by sulphur while a cloud of steam steadily releases from it. The viewpoint had a restroom, café and small shop. We enjoyed a coca tea and bought coca beer, coca chocolate and roasted snacks. 

Bolivia’s Lagoons 

Laguna Cañapa.  A salty lagoon surrounded by volcanos with a colony of pink and white flamingos feeding on microorganisms in the water. We watched through binoculars as some flamingos strutted up to the water's muddy edge showing off their pink necks and tail feathers. 

Laguna Hedionda.  A large salt lake with hues of blue, green and yellow in front of a towering volcano. The lagoon is a feeding ground for a large population of pink and white flamingos.

Laguna Chiar Khota.  A lagoon in a valley with pale blue water, salty shores and patches of yellow sulphur with flocks of feeding flamingos.

Laguna Colorada.  A vast and shallow salt lake with red tinted water, a large population of flamingos and four volcanoes flanking each side of the lagoon. Wild vicuñas roam the yellow grass tufted hills surrounding the lagoon. 

Laguna Verde.  A greenish hued saltwater lagoon set against the backdrop of two cone shaped volcanoes. It’s home to feeding pink flamingos.

Rock Formations

Roca de Vizcachas.  A volcanic formation of eroded sheets of rock home to Vizcacha, a chinchilla like rodent and tiny mice.

Valle de Rocas.  A valley of rocks that have been eroded by wind speeds of 130km and freezing temperatures of -25C creating unique formations of split and splintered rock. Two of the most iconic formations are the mushroom and Arbol de Piedra. 

The Dali Desert.  A desert with a surreal landscape that resembles one of Salvador Dali’s paintings. Large rocks rest upright along an ancient lava flow from a volcano whose profile resembles the face of an elephant. 

Geothermal Activity 

Sol de Mañana Geysers.  A series of steam vents, bubbling pools of mud and sulphuric deposits covering the barren desert landscape. We walked between the smelly and steaming vents, warming our hands in the below freezing temperatures at nearly 5,000 meters above sea level. 

Aguas Termales de Polques.  A natural hot spring with two steaming pools at the edge of a saltwater lagoon. We relaxed here for half an hour, at one point having the pool entirely to ourselves. 

Where to Stay 

Hotel Warara.  A salt hotel with walls, decor, tables and bed frames all made from salt blocks, plaster and crystals. We stayed here one night during our tour of the Uyuni Salt Flats and Bolivian Desert. 

Hostel San Marcelo.  A hostel in a small village near the Laguna Colorada. The rooms are basic but have twin beds, layers of warm blankets for the cold nights and shared restrooms. The hostel lacks electricity and wifi.

Perla de Bolivia

We visited the Uyuni Salt Flats and sights across the Bolivian Desert with Perla de Bolivia on a four day tour from La Paz, Bolivia to San Pedro de Atacama, Chile. The tour included transportation, accommodations, guides, meals (including vegetarian options), snacks and water. Book here.

Elsewhere in Bolivia

From the endless salt flats of Uyuni to the Indigenous traditions of Lake Titicaca and the mountain ringed streets of La Paz, discover more of Bolivia through these travel guides: 

La Paz Bolivia Travel Guide: Cable Cars, Markets & Mountain Views.  Wander through La Paz where Indigenous culture, bustling markets and Andean flavors thrive beneath dramatic mountain peaks and a network of city wide cable cars.

Lake Titicaca Travel Guide: Floating Islands & Indigenous Culture.  Voyage between Lake Titicaca's floating islands and lakeside communities where Indigenous culture, Andean traditions and centuries of history live on.

La Paz Bolivia Travel Guide: Cable Cars, Markets & Mountain Views

La Paz, An Andean Metropolis 

La Paz is the capital of Bolivia sitting nearly 12,000ft above sea level in the Central Andes. It’s a melting pot for Bolivian peoples, both indigenous and urban as well as a gastronomic hub for Andean and Amazonian flavors. Between its green spaces, markets and skyscrapers, the metropolis is a sprawling place to explore. We wandered the busy streets, rode the teleferico high above the city and hiked to urban lookouts. At night, as the colorful roofs fade into darkness, the city begins to glow with the warmth of twinkle lights. 

Neighborhoods

Barrio Sopocachi.  A bohemian and artsy neighborhood with murals, small parks, cafes and bars. It’s quieter and removed from the central neighborhood.  

El Centro.  The historic center of La Paz with museums, government buildings, colonial architecture and markets. 

Chualluma.  A hilly neighborhood with buildings and steep staircases painted in vibrant and pastel colors. It’s viewable on the red teleferico line from the Central Station. 

Calacoto.  A high end residential and business district at the lower end of the La Paz Valley with elegant homes and towering glass skyscrapers.

See the Sights & Museums 

Mirador Killi Killi.  A lookout in the middle of La Paz with views of the valley and sprawling city crawling up the mountainsides. 

Montículo.  A peaceful park and lookout in the middle of Barrio Sopocachi with views of the neighborhood, modern skyscrapers, teleferico and mountains. 

La Plaza Murillo. A central plaza surrounded by stately buildings flying the Bolivian and Andean flags with a large population of pigeons. Notable buildings include: 

• The Presidential Palace.  A stone and red painted building patrolled by military police and presidential guard.

• Legislature.  A neoclassical building with white marble columns and a backwards clock representative of political change. 

• Basilica of Our Lady of Peace.  A Renaissance style stone cathedral. 

The National Museum of Ethnography & Folklore.  A museum with exhibits on the use of natural resources by indigenous Bolivians. The exhibits showcase artifacts including ornate textiles, clothing and hats, elaborate feathered headdresses and totems, colorful Indigenous masks, ceramics and metalwork.

Plaza Abaroa.  We stumbled upon this plaza while wandering through Barrio Sopocachi. At the time, it had a market with vendors selling textiles, jewelry and clothes. We bought crossbody bags embroidered in Bolivian textiles.

Calle Jean.  A cobblestone street with colorful colonial buildings, art galleries, small museums and souvenir shops. 

Valle de la Luna.  A nature park just outside of La Paz with trails leading through an otherworldly desert landscape created by eroding rock pillars and jagged geological formations.

Shop the Markets 

La Paz has numerous markets across the city in almost every neighborhood. We visited three to shop for groceries, eat street food and look for handicrafts. 

Mercado Lanza.  A maze like market in a brutalist building with levels of intertwining ramps of vendors selling all kinds of inexpensive meals and juices. We wandered between sections as cooks called us into their nooks until finally stopping to eat. We sat down at one vendor’s kitchen for Sopa de Maní (peanut soup) and another for fried Mauri (an Andean fish).

Mercado de las Brujas.  A market street covered in upside down umbrellas and streamers with vendors selling musical instruments, hand woven textiles, antique indigenous artifacts and all types of machine made souvenirs. One of the draws is the dried llama fetuses and stuffed baby llamas suspended from shops. They’re used as offerings every August to Pachamama (Mother Earth) by the indigenous community. 

Mercado Rodríguez.  A street market with vendors selling vegetables, fruits, herbs, breads and spices. There is an indoor market for fresh cut flowers and meats. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Ali Pacha.  A fine dining vegetarian restaurant offering surprise tasting menus blending Bolivian ingredients with international cuisine. We celebrated my birthday here opting for the standard tasting menu paired with Bolivian red wine. Our menu came with a cassava croquette, sourdough breads, fermented quinoa stew, purple corn tacos, quinoa dumplings and two desserts. 

Paceña La Salteña.  A restaurant chain that bakes the beloved Bolivian street food, Salteña. Any location is a reliable spot to find a vegetarian version. 

Cielo Bar.  A high end cocktail bar on the 38th floor of Bolivia’s tallest building with views of the city and mountains. We came here for drinks at sunset!

El Bestiario.  A bohemian style and queer friendly bar that specializes in gin cocktails made from their house gin. We met up with new friends here, sipping on inventive concoctions and classics like the Negroni. Try the Llamero Solitario, an aromatic gin cocktail made with a heavy garnish of Andean herbs or the Api Love made with purple corn. 

Retrato Café.  A cozy cafe in Sopocachi that feels more like someone’s house than a coffee shop. We came here for Bolivian coffee and breakfast dishes.

Hb Bronze Coffee Bar.  A romantic coffee bar with table side and candlelight coffee preparation of your choice. They specialize in geisha coffee, coffee infused cocktails and wines.

Eli’s Pizza.  A restaurant in an old train car at the Central Station with pizzas and salteñas, including vegetarian options. 

Friddo.  An ice cream cart at the Central Station serving Bolivian flavors like dulce de leche, mocha, cherimoya and tumbo.

Bolivian Cuisine

From street food to contemporary cuisine, La Paz is a gastronomic hub for Andean and Amazonian flavors.

Salteñas.  A savory Bolivian pastry that’s a cross between a baked empanada and a soup dumpling. A semi-sweet dough that caramelizes along the crimped edges filled with stewed meats or veggies and a sauce containing Andean spices. They’re often served from morning through mid-afternoon.

Plato Paceño.  The national dish made from choclo (corn), potatoes and habas (large green beans) boiled with anise, served with grilled Andean cheese and a portion of meat.

Sopa de Maní.  A vegetarian soup made from peanuts, veggies and noodles. It’s often served with a side of a spiced herb sauce.

Trucha.  Trout from Lake Titicaca or other Andean bodies of water. It’s often served, either pan fried in butter and spiced or breaded and deep fried.

Cuñape.  A cheesy bread ball made with queso fresco and mozzarella. It’s similar to Brazil’s pao de queijo.

Tropical Fruits.  A majority of Bolivia is within the Amazon which supplies the country with an array of tropical and exotic fruits. Some include tumbo, cherimoya, mango, kiwi, banana, avocado and papaya.

Pasankallas.  A snack similar to popcorn made from large corn kernels that have been dried, puffed and then coated with sugar, salt or other spices.

Paceña.  A classic pilsner and Bolivia’s national beer. 

Ch’Ama.  A craft beer made with coca leaves.

Chuflay.  A traditional Bolivian cocktail made from Singani, a distilled grape liquor, a soda such as Sprite or ginger ale and slices of lemon served on the rocks. 

Getting Around 

Mi Teleferico.  A transit network of cable cars used to get around the city. It’s by far the best way to get around La Paz and sight see. There are several different color coded lines that connect the city, cross valleys and reach into the mountains, each with unique aerial views of the city and Andean landscape. We purchased a rechargeable card to share with fares costing a couple Boliviano per ride.

By Uber.  For distances not reachable by the Teleferico, we took Ubers to get around. They are readily available and inexpensive. 

Location Specifics

Cash vs. Card.  Cash is most commonly accepted. Very few places accept debit or credit cards.

Currency. The Bolivian Bolivar is the only accepted currency however US dollars can be exchanged for rates higher than the accepted rate. 

Altitude. La Paz is the highest capital city in the world at an altitude of 12,000ft above sea level. If you haven’t acclimated, it can be tiring and different.

UV Protection. With the high altitude, the UV is significantly harsher than at sea level. Pants, long sleeves, sunglasses and broad spectrum sun block are necessary not to burn. 

Water.  The tap water is unsafe to drink, even if boiled. It’s often contaminated with heavy metals by runoff from nearby mines. Drink filtered or bottled water only. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Bolivia is increasingly accepting of LGBTQ travelers though PDA is not common. 

Elsewhere in Bolivia

From bustling markets and mountain views to ancient island communities and the otherworldly landscapes of Salar de Uyuni, discover more of Bolivia through these travel guides: 

Salar de Uyuni Travel Guide: Salt Flats, Lagoons & Desert Landscapes.  Journey across Salar de Uyuni's vast salt flats and Bolivia's high altitude deserts where colorful lagoons, flamingos, volcanoes and geysers create extraordinary landscapes.

Lake Titicaca Travel Guide: Floating Islands & Indigenous Culture.  Voyage between Lake Titicaca's floating islands and lakeside communities where Indigenous culture, Andean traditions and centuries of history live on.

For Next Time…

During our 3 days in La Paz, we spent our time exploring the city and tasting the cuisine. With more time, we would venture out to an archeological complex and the Amazon. 

Tiwanaku Archaeological Complex.  The ruins of a pre-Incan civilization’s capital with stone walls, a large gate, statue and plazas. It’s located 2 hours south of La Paz.

The Bolivian Amazon.  The sprawling South American Rainforest is located on the other side of the Andes less than 2 hours by car from La Paz. 

Atacama Desert Travel Guide: Best Things to Do from San Pedro de Atacama

Atacama, Chile

The Atacama Desert is the driest place on the planet with an aired landscape comprised of countless volcanoes, erupting geysers, rocky valleys, jagged mountains, gargantuan sand dunes, vast salt flats, vibrant lagoons, spiraling dust devils and small desert towns. From the adobe town San Pedro de Atacama, we ventured into the remote landscapes of the Atacama Desert. 

San Pedro de Atacama, Chile 

San Pedro de Atacama is a western style town with a bohemian, adventurous and positive touristy vibe. The city is an oasis in the Chilean Atacama Desert with adobe houses, desert lodges, narrow dirt roads and access to some of the region’s natural sights. 

• Calle Caracoles.  A dusty dirt road that passes through the center of San Pedro de Atacama with Chilean restaurants, live music, cocktail bars, ice cream shops, outdoorsy stores and tour operators.

• Plaza de San Pedro de Atacama.  A tree covered plaza with cacti gardens surrounded by beautiful adobe buildings including a historic church.

• Trópico de Capricornio.  Located about an hour south of San Pedro de Atacama along Chile Highway 23, a road sign marks the location of the Southern Hemisphere’s tropical latitude, the Tropic of Capricorn. 

Salt Flats 

Salar de Aguas Calientes (Piedras Rojas).  A milky blue lagoon covering a pure white salt flat juxtaposed by a hardened red rock lava flow with a smooth and wavy texture. The lagoon is surrounded by towering volcanoes with dark slopes and streaks of colorful mineral deposits near their summits. 

Salar de Atacama.  A craggily salt flat flanked by three mountain ranges home to multiple species of flamingos and migratory birds. We walked one of the trails, watching the flamingos feed and fly. 

Lagoons

Laguna Miñiques.  A large freshwater lagoon with a blue hued color at the base of the Miñiques Volcano. The lookout offers panoramic views of both as well as the volcanic mountain range beyond, shrub covered hills and distant vicuñas (a cute camelid) and suri (a large ostrich like bird).

Laguna Miscanti.  A dark hued freshwater lagoon at the base of the Miscanti Volcano home to the Horned Coot, marine birds that build cone shaped mud nests in the lagoon near the shore.

Laguna de Machuca.  A freshwater lagoon with hundreds of vibrant pink flamingos feeding, flying and mating around the shallow water. We spotted a large group of male flamingos dancing in unison to attract females. 

Lagunas Escondidas de Baltinache.  A salt water lagoon with a mirror effect reflecting the volcanos and sky. It’s one of the only lagoons in the Atacama that people are allowed to swim in. We walked into the cold water and effortlessly floated at the surface. 

Ojos del Salar.  Two small, nearly perfectly round lagoons that resemble a pair of eyes.

Laguna Cejar.  A lagoon with a boardwalk along its grassy edge and flamingos feeding in the distance. 

Laguna Tebenquiche.  A shallow salty lagoon in a salt flat home to colonies of stromatolites, the first life forms on Earth. The trail emphasizes how they were the origin of life on Earth and have played a role in continuing life after the past 5 mass extinction events. 

Geysers & Wetlands 

El Tatio Geysers.  A large geothermal field in a valley with dozens of steaming vents, bubbling pools, erupting geysers and streams of scalding water. The geysers are small but varied. Some erupt from cone like structures of sediment, others bubble and sputter from shallow pools of water and some steam from tiny holes. The frigid morning temperatures make the steam from the geysers most visible. In the extreme cold, boiling water erupting from the geysers freezes immediately creating sparkling streaks of ice. It was -8C the spring morning we visited so warm clothes and layers were a necessity. 

Vado Putana Wetlands.  A desert wetland at the base of the Cerro Pabellón Volcano. It’s a place where a variety of birds and wildlife acclimate at. We stopped to admire the green and yellow marshy landscape spotting flamingos, vicuñas, horned coot and blue beaked ducks. 

Rock Formations 

Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley).  A desert valley named after white dustings of salt over the valley’s surfaces, resembling the moon. We hiked through the valley, stopping to see rock formations, climb giant dunes and take in the view from scenic overlooks. 

• Mina Victoria.  A former salt mining area to listen to the salt creaking and cracking as the afternoon temperature drops.

• Tres Marias.  A rock formation that looks like two women praying with their hands up. The third Maria has eroded. 

• The Amphitheater.  A large crescent shaped bluff with layers of brown, orange and salty sediment. We followed a trail leading along its base. 

• Duna Mayor.  A massive tan and grey sand dune with a trail leading up to its crest overlooking the valley.

• Good to Know.  The park cannot be entered on foot. It can be entered by bike before 11am. Getting here by car with a tour company is the best way to visit.

Mirador de Kari & Piedra del Coyote.  A popular cliff side overlook to visit at sunset overlooking the Valley of the Moon and canyon below. On a windy day, the dust and sand blowing from the canyon below can be unbearable. 

Desert Animals.  The Atacama Desert and Chilean Andes are home to a variety of wild animals. On our tours across the region, we spotted several of the most common animals including Chilean flamingos, vicuñas, chinchillas, desert foxes, and ñandús.

Astronomical Sights

Stargazing Tour.  The Atacama Desert is one of the world’s designated dark sky regions. We took a stargazing tour and got to see meteors streaking across the sky, satellites orbiting and an incredible array of celestial objects!

Through three telescopes, the astronomers pointed out two nebulae including the cloudy mass of the Orion Nebula and the cosmic veins of the Tarantula Nebula. We observed the blue star cluster of The Pleiades and a globular cluster with over 6 million stars held together by a supermassive black hole. We spotted the fuzzy disk of the Andromeda Galaxy and the bright blue star, Achernar. They showed us the planet of Saturn, its rings and 2 of its moons as well as Jupiter and 3 of its moons. We ended the night with wine and photos under the dark sky. 

Good to Know.  Though the Atacama is a dark sky region, the conditions also need to be right. It’s best to stargaze when the moon is not visible. The light pollution is less the further away from San Pedro de Atacama. 

Meteorite Museum.  A museum in a geodesic dome housing a collection of meteorites, many of which are from the Chilean Atacama Desert. The guided audio tour explains the types of meteorites and their importance in building the inner planets of our solar system. Some are available to touch and there is even a small display case with slices of of Chilean meteorites for sale ranging in price from $10 to $200

Tour Companies

Dozens of tour companies operate along Calle Caracoles offering excursions throughout the Atacama. We booked our tours with multiple companies in person, on Viator and through Get Your Guide. Most tours offer pick up and include a table spread of food and beverages. Here are the tours we booked: 

• Piedras Rojas + Altiplanic Lagoons and Salar de Atacama

• Half Day Tour to Geysers del Tatio

• Tour to the Valley of the Moon San Pedro de Atacama

• Tour to Laguna Cejar, Ojos del Salar and Laguna Tebenquiche

• Astronomical Tour with Guide and Pick Up San Pedro de Atacama

Places to Eat & Drink 

Adobe.  A beautiful restaurant with an outdoor patio surrounded by adobe brick walls and shaded by a thatched awning. We dined here at lunch while listening to live music and sipping on spiced Pisco Sours. To eat, we ordered traditional Chilean seafood dishes including the Southern Hake and Camarones al Pil Pil. 

La Casona.  A popular restaurant with nightly musical performances and an outdoor fire pit. We sat in their outdoor patio, listening to live music, sipping on cocktails and eating vegetarian versions of traditional Chilean dishes like Chorrillana and Pastel de Choclo. 

Helderia Babalu.  An Ice cream and gelato shop serving a range of Chilean and inventive flavors. We came here three times, trying several flavors like: pineapple-mint, orange-ginger, prickly pear, quinoa leche, lucuma (similar to passion fruit) and tres leches. 

Emporio Andeno.  A cafe and empanaderia with coffees and a list of over a dozen empanadas including vegetarian versions of Champiñón made with mushrooms, corn and cheese or the Vegano Verde made with mushrooms, spinach, corn salsa and vegan béchamel. 

Karavan Restobar.  A restaurant and bar with adobe booths & tables, live music, local dishes and fresh juices. We ordered a few afternoon snacks, Bolitas de Queso y Jalapeño and Sopaipillas with pico de gallo. For drinks, we sipped on fresh pressed lemonade rica rica and passion fruit juice.  

La Picada Del Indio.  A popular restaurant and bar. Come here for all day happy hour in their back patio, two cocktails for 8,000 Chilean pesos. 

Charrua.  A pizzeria with a range of thin crust pizzas. We ordered a classic margherita pizza and four cheese pizza, each with rica rica seasoning. It was our first pizza in nearly 3 months and did not disappoint! 

La Franchuteria.  A bakery and cafe with a peaceful dining area in a lush outdoor patio surrounded by tiny chirping birds. Come here for their pastries, quiche and fresh breads, especially the baguettes and baguette sandwiches.

El Barro.  A beer garden style restaurant with a large shaded patio. Come here for their affordable prix fixe menus and generous portions. Try the ceviche, fried fish, daily dessert and red sangria. 

Chilean Cuisine 

Chorrillana.  A traditional Chilean dish made from French fries covered with meat or vegetables and topped with artichoke hearts and cherry tomatoes. 

Pastel de Choclo.  A Chilean version of shepherd's pie made with a mixture of sautéed vegetables and meat topped with a creamy corn pudding and broiled. 

Pil Pil.  A traditional style Chilean dish made from meat, seafood or mushrooms cooked in a spicy and savory sauce flavored with garlic and chili cacho de cabra. It’s typically served with papas doradas.

Sopaipillas.  Fried flat breads served with a sweet or savory topping like jams, salsa or ceviche. It’s often served as a snack or appetizer. 

Bolitas de Queso.  Deep fried balls of cream cheese. It’s often served as a snack or appetizer. 

Fresh Juice.  Freshly pressed fruit, herb and veggie juice blends are incredibly popular across the town with dedicated juice bars and menus dedicated to juices at restaurants. 

Rica Rica.  A popular herb used in many dishes that tastes and smells similar to oregano. 

Olives.  Olives and olive oil are typical ingredients in many dishes. Most restaurants even serve olive oil table side with meals.

Wine.  Chile has several grape growing regions used to make wine. Malbecs and Merlots are the most common. 

Where to Stay

Desert Eco Dome.  We stayed in an eco dome outside of the city center that we found on Airbnb. The white domed structure houses a kitchen, living room and lofted bedroom. The desert property has an adobe house, outdoor hammocks and shaded lounge areas. Book here.

Getting Around

On Foot.  The town of San Pedro de Atacama is easily walkable. Everything is within 1km of the main street, Calle Caracoles. 

By Bike.  Several companies around the city center rent bikes by the day. This is a great option to visit sights in the outskirts of the city without a tour.

By Tour.  The most efficient way to visit sights across the region is by tour. Tours offer pick up from accommodations, via a sprinter van and return to the city center. 

Airport Transfer.  Most flights in and out of San Pedro de Atacama leave from the town of Calama 1 hour 30 minutes away. We booked a transfer with Ruta Chile. Book here.

Location Specifics

Drinking Water.  Tap water is generally not safe to consume in San Pedro de Atacama. It’s best to drink filtered or bottled water.

Toilets.  Like most places in South America, signs advise people not to flush toilet paper due to risk of clogging the plumbing. 

Cash vs. Card.  Many businesses accept credit cards but cash is often preferred. 

Exchanging Cash.  If exchanging US dollars for Chilean Pesos, make sure the bill is in perfect condition (no minor tears or markings) or it will not be accepted. 

Language.  Spanish is the dominant language however English and Portuguese are commonly spoken. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  San Pedro de Atacama is very friendly to and accepting of queer travelers and locals. 

Elsewhere in Chile

From the surreal deserts of Atacama to the urban energy of Santiago and the glaciers of Patagonia, continue your journey through Chile's diverse landscapes with these travel guides: 

Santiago Chile Travel Guide: Neighborhoods, Food & Local Markets.  Discover Santiago's vibrant neighborhoods, urban green spaces, celebrated food scene and cosmopolitan culture beneath the snow capped peaks of the Andes.

Patagonia Chile Travel Guide: Torres del Paine, Hiking & Road Trips.  Road trip through Chilean Patagonia where scenic hikes, wildlife encounters, turquoise waterfalls and rugged landscapes create an unforgettable wilderness adventure.

Santiago Chile Travel Guide: Neighborhoods, Food & Local Markets

A Weekend in Santiago

Santiago is an enchanting metropolis with colorful city streets, lush hilltop parks, historic buildings, towering skyscrapers and views of the Andes Mountains. It’s a hub for Chilean wine and cuisine, queer nightlife and cultural sights. We spent a weekend exploring the city, getting a taste of what it has to offer and leaving with a strong desire to return. 

Neighborhoods

Barrio de Bellavista.  A charming neighborhood with treelined streets, colorful historic homes, cute coffee shops and main streets painted in murals and graffiti. The neighborhood is a cultural hub that comes to life at night! Local cuisine is served at Chilean restaurants, fans cheer on their favorite soccer teams at sports bars, glammed up drag queens perform at queer friendly bars and mixologists shake cocktails late into the evening. 

Lastarria Neighborhood.  A small and trendy neighborhood with cobblestone streets, colorful ornate buildings, high end restaurants and Chilean wine bars. It’s a calm area to walk around, stop for a glass of wine or dine at a sidewalk patio. To us, it feels very similar to the cute streets of the West Village in NYC. 

Centro Histórico.  The historic center of Santiago with tree lined plazas, ornate stone buildings, cultural sights and museums. 

City Parks

Jacaranda Trees.  For one to two weeks during southern spring, the Jacaranda trees are in full bloom. These beautiful trees blossom with tiny bell shaped lavender colored flowers visible around the city streets and from the lookouts. We were lucky enough to see them across the city when we visited in late November. 

Cerro Santa Lucía.  A beautiful hilltop park in the middle of the city with panoramic views of Santiago and the Andes Mountains. We walked the winding cobblestone paths, gradually meandering upwards through the park. Along the way, we passed ornate tiled fountains, bronze statues and medieval style architecture with castle walls, towers, lookouts and cannons. The green space is home to natural hexagonal basalt columns, flowering jacaranda trees, towering palms and even a single Socotra Dragon Tree native to an Arabian island in Yemen. 

Parque Forestal Museo.  A verdant treelined city park with small meadows and walkways. It’s a retreat for locals on the weekend with couples lounging in the grass, pet owners playing fetch with their dogs and cyclists riding down the dirt pathways. 

Parque Metropolitano de Santiago.  A mountainous park in the middle of Santiago with winding walkways and bicycle paths, picnic areas, scenic lookouts, a zoo, a botanical garden and Japanese garden. 

• Cerro San Cristóbal.  A mountaintop lookout in the middle of the Parque Metropolitano de Santiago. It has beautiful views of the city, small cafes and a religious atmosphere with an outdoor church and various Christian shrines. 

• Funicular & Teleferico.  We rode the funicular up the mountain from the Bellavista neighborhood to reach the Cerro San Cristobal. From the lookout, we continued on the teleferico across the mountainous park with views of the landscape and surrounding city. 

See the Sights

Sky Costanera.  A modern glass tower and the tallest building in South America! Come here for a cocktail at its observatory while enjoying panoramic views of Santiago and the Andes Mountains. The 300 Bar serves inventive cocktails served in unique glasses, with bubbles of smoke and floral garnishing. 

Plaza de Armas.  A palm covered plaza and the city’s main square with several monumental buildings, street performers and vendors. It’s a scenic spot to sit down, people watch and enjoy the city. 

Plaza de la Constitución.  A stately square lined with Chilean flags surrounded by government buildings including the presidential palace, Palacio de La Moneda. 

Shop the Markets

Mercado Central.  A historic seafood market in an ornate wrought iron building with seafood restaurants and vendors selling an immense variety of the day's fresh catch on large beds of ice. We enjoyed lunch at Donde Augusto, a longtime seafood restaurant in the middle of the market serving Chilean dishes like sautéed sea bass and Paila Marina. Afterwards, we shopped around for ingredients to prepare a traditional Chilean dish, Shrimp Pil Pil. 

La Vega Central.  A large produce market with vendors selling fruits, vegetables, potatoes, nuts and dry goods. The market is a great spot to shop for fresh and local ingredients at affordable prices. A cute and unexpected scene was the number of cats roaming around the market and even sleeping alongside bins of produce. 

Good to know. The scene outside of the market is chaotic with shipments of produce being delivered, vendors selling miscellaneous goods on the sidewalks and unsavory characters stumbling around the area. Avoid the area after dark. 

Chilean Cuisine

Chilean Sea Bass.  The famed Chilean fish seen on menus at high end restaurants around the world. The tender white fish is often served grilled, sautéed in butter or as ceviche. 

Empanadas.  Served everywhere across Santiago and stuffed with fillings ranging from spiced vegetables and savory seafoods to herbed cheeses and meats. These large folded pockets of flaky dough are a staple of Chilean cuisine. 

Caldillo de Congrio.  A very traditional Chilean stew made from a seafood broth boiled with a large piece of conger eel served with its skin and bones still attached. 

Pil Pil.  A traditional style Chilean dish made from meat, seafood or mushrooms cooked in a spicy and savory sauce flavored with garlic and chili cacho de cabra. It’s typically served with papas doradas.

Paila Marina.  A traditional Chilean seafood soup made from at least a dozen types of seafood including scallop, clam, crab, mussel, octopus, sea bass and shrimp cooked in a savory broth with herbs and spices.

Alfajores.  A Chilean dessert with a heavy layer of dulce de leche sandwiched between two cookies or crackers. Some bakeries and cafes even encase them in baked meringue. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Viva La Vida.  A Chilean restaurant in Bellavista with a menu of local and national dishes. Come here for everything from Chilean sea bass grilled with veggies and potatoes to the Caldillo de Congrio, a savory seafood and potato soup served with a large piece of eel. 

Sanguchería Ciudad Vieja.  A multi-level restaurant and cocktail bar in a historic corner building in Bellavista with sophisticated cocktails and late night bites.  

El Jardín Cafetería.  A café in Bellavista with a garden themed interior and sidewalk patio. Come here for avocado toasts, egg dishes, pastries and coffee. 

Marciel Art Cafe.  A cozy café in Bellavista with an electric art gallery vibe. Come here for croissant sandwiches, pastries and coffee. 

Chilean Wine

Bocanáriz.  A wine bar with hundreds of Chilean wines served by tasting flights, the glass or full bottle. Short on time in Santiago, we came here to try Chilean wines instead of going on a vineyard tour. We ordered a flight of the “Signature Wines” including a pinot noir, garnacha and merlot. Our second flight, “Carmenere, National Emblem” included 3 of the country’s beloved carmenere wines. We also ordered a tasting of a brut rose and merlot a-la-carte. 

Santiago Wine Club.  A wine shop in the Lastarria neighborhood specializing in Chilean wines. We came here after our tastings at Bocanáriz and bought two bottles of our favorites, a cabernet franc from the Valle de Lolol and a carmenere from the Calle del Maule. 

Where to Stay

We stayed at a studio in the middle of the Bellavista neighborhood with views of the Andes Mountains, nearby restaurants, bars and several of the sights we saw. When we return to Santiago, we will definitely be booking here again.

Elsewhere in Chile

From Santiago's vibrant city life to the lunar landscapes of the Atacama Desert and the wild peaks of Patagonia, discover more of Chile beyond the capital through these travel guides: 

Atacama Desert Travel Guide: Best Things to Do from San Pedro de Atacama.  Explore the Atacama Desert from San Pedro de Atacama where volcanoes, salt flats, vibrant lagoons and geysers create otherworldly landscapes.

Patagonia Chile Travel Guide: Torres del Paine, Hiking & Road Trips.  Road trip through Chilean Patagonia where scenic hikes, wildlife encounters, turquoise waterfalls and rugged landscapes create an unforgettable wilderness adventure.

For Next Time… 

We have a lot to see the next time that we return to Santiago! We plan to return for at least two weeks to explore more of the city and region. 

• Visit the Vineyards.  Having had a taste for Chilean wine at the source, we plan to return and visit some of the wine producing regions like the Maipo Valley and Casablanca Valley. 

• Hike the Andes.  There are several nearby hikes on the outskirts of the city with views of Santiago and the Andes Mountains. In addition, we’d like to venture further into the Andes to see the snow covered mountains, fresh water lagoons and small alpine style towns. 

• See the Museums.  The weekend we visited was the gubernatorial elections and all of the museums we wanted to visit were closed. High on our list are Museo Histórico Nacional, Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos and Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes.

• Head to the Coast.  The Pacific shores are less than two hours from Santiago. We were recommended by locals and other travelers to spend time in the coastal cities of Valparaíso and Viña del Mar. 

• Rapa Nui National Park.  Far from the coast of Chile in the middle of the South Pacific is the Polynesian island of Rapa Nui (aka Easter Island). We plan to visit and see the famed Moai stone faces.  

Mendoza Argentina Travel Guide: Wineries, Wine Tours & Cuisine

Mendoza, Wine Country

Mendoza is wine country! Here, hundreds of vineyards and countless rows of grape vines blanket the landscape beneath the backdrop of the Andes Mountains. The most notable wines of the many produced across the region are Malbecs and Cabernet Franc.

Wine Tour by Bicycle 

There are multiple wine producing regions in Mendoza known for different varieties of grapes and wines. We visited the Maipu and Lujan de Cuyo valleys on self guided bike tours. Both valleys have a range of vineyards in close proximity to each other making it easy to visit multiple in one day. It’s also the most affordable way to visit the vineyards. 

Maipu Bikes.  A bike rental company in the center of the Maipu Valley with daily bike rentals, route suggestions, a map and vineyard discounts. They’re open from 10am-6pm with a free happy hour between 5-6pm. The cost is $10 ARS in cash only. 

Baccus Wine Tours.  A bike rental company in the Lujan de Cayo Valley with daily bike rentals, route suggestions and a map. They’re open from 10am-6pm daily. The cost is $15 ARS in cash only.

Tips for Biking Between Vineyards:

• It’s best to start between 10-11am and plan out a route to maximize time. 

• If planning to visit any specific wineries, confirm hours and the need for a reservation before arriving. 

• Plan to visit anywhere from 2-5 vineyards depending on pace. 

• Order a meal for lunch or pairings throughout the day.

• Bring water to stay hydrated! 

• Wear sunblock. The UV often reaches extreme levels. 

The Maipu Valley

A slightly industrial wine producing valley southeast of Mendoza with many large scale and boutique vineyards. Roadside bike paths follow the main road and branch off onto dirt roads leading to most vineyards. We visited 4 vineyards and an olive oil store during our tour. 

Bodega Trapiche.  A grand and historic vineyard with tours, tastings and opportunities to learn about the winemaking process. Our tour started with a stroll through the vineyard and a glass of small batch white wine only served onsite. We transited to a Malbec as we entered a warehouse with massive concrete tanks used to store thousands of liters of wine. The next building housed oak barrels and concrete eggs of aging wine. We ended our tour in their tasting room with views of the Andes, sampling two more Malbecs, both grand reserves. The vineyard is bike friendly, it’s pricier to visit and reservations are required. 

Entre Olivos. A small shop with tastings of locally produced olive oils, olive pates and wine. We stopped here en route to the next vineyard and bought a bottle of oil to bake focaccia. 

Viña el Cerno.  A small vineyard with a tasting room in their processing warehouse. We didn’t learn much about the vineyard or their wines but got to sample three different types, a sweet rosé, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The vineyard is bike friendly and no reservations are needed. 

Bodega MEVI.  A vineyard with a restaurant and tasting room overlooking their rows of grape vines, olive trees and the snow covered Andes. We didn’t learn much about the wines but enjoyed the view while drinking them.  We sampled three types, a dry rosé, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The vineyard is bike friendly and no reservations are needed. 

Bodega Domiciano.  A winery with a small show vineyard at their production facility. We toured the vineyard with rows of Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet grapes, getting to learn about the vines themselves. Inside their warehouse, we walked past large concrete tanks used to store thousands of liters of wine then to their cellar with oak barrels and bottles of aging reserves. Our tour ended in their tasting room where we sipped on a Sparking Brut, Malbec and Syrah. The vineyard is bike friendly, no reservations are needed however tours happen at set times throughout the day.

Lujan de Cuyo

A beautiful valley with grand vineyards, country homes and views of the Andes located south of Mendoza. It has defined and well maintained sidewalk style bike paths that lead directly to most vineyards.

Bodega Gieco.  A rustic vineyard with a tasting room, provisions shop, bakery and a range outdoor seating areas. We tasted three wines: Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Tannat. We enjoyed our first glass on their elevated deck overlooking the rows of grape vines in the vineyard with a house baked vegan ciabatta sandwich. We sipped on the second two in their patios covered with fruiting apricot trees. The vineyard is bike friendly. No reservation is needed. 

Bodega Viamonte.  A very elegant vineyard with seemingly endless rows of grape vines and views of the snow covered Andes. We arrived early and ordered a glass of rosé paired with a chocolate mousse pastry. The tour began with a glass of their house white, a walk through the vineyard and white brick processing facilities. We ended in their tasting room surrounded by oak barrels of aging wines. Our tasting included four Malbecs, two entry level, one reserve and grand reserve paired with a chocolate tart, tomato mousse cracker and blue cheese. The vineyard is bike friendly and reservations are required. 

City Winery 

Bodega Las Toneles.  A massive winery in the city with historic buildings housing giant concrete containers, steel tanks and stacked oak barrels of aging wine. We tasted a Merlot directly from a stainless steel tank and sampled glasses of Pinot Noir, Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc and two Malbecs. The most exciting part of the tour is the extravagant underground wine vault with painted mermaids swimming in tanks of wine. The winery has a pastel colored cafe, a Michelin starred restaurant and an event venue.

Central Mendoza

The city center of Mendoza is a hub for cuisine and wine with restaurant lined streets, tree covered promenades, empanaderas, produce markets and daily happy hours. 

Calle Arístides Villanueva.  A tree covered street with many restaurants, bars, cafes and breweries popular with both locals and tourists, especially after 8pm. Come here to dine at one of the street patios or high-end restaurants.

Peatonal Sarmiento.  A tree covered pedestrian street with cafes, wine shops, restaurants and shopping. 

Mercado Central.  A historic market with vendors selling wine, olives, bread, meats, cheese, seafood, empanadas, alfajores and produce. 

City Plazas and Parks

The city center is organized around a large plaza with four smaller squares a few streets away from its corners. They’re all easy to visit on foot and worth exploring while walking around the city center.

Plaza Independencia.  A large treelined square at the center of the city with fountains, a theater and a weekend artisan market. Vendors sell handcrafted items like wire metal jewelry, knitted items, leather goods, ceramics, watercolor paintings, and knives.

Plaza España.  A beautiful plaza with a central fountain, park benches, a monument and walkways covered in colorful and ornate Spanish tiles. 

Plaza Italy.  A plaza dedicated to Argentina’s Italian immigrants with a fountain at its center telling the story of Dante’s Divine Comedy, a statue of Rome’s iconic wolf, Lupa and numerous others rooted in Italian history. 

Plaza Chile.  A plaza dedicated to Argentina’s close relationship with neighboring Chile. The plaza has a fountain and park benches covered in mosaic tiles in the colors of Chile’s flag. 

Plaza Army.  A plaza dedicated to Argentina’s army with a stone monument and a bronze statue of a general riding on top of it. 

Parque San Martín.  A large city park with a central pond, rose garden and biking trails. We picnicked here on a Saturday, walked along the trails and visited a large tented craft market and small organic food market. 

Empanada Crawl

Empanadas are one of Argentina’s most popular snacks. The savory packets of dough are stylized with crimped sides and stuffed with fillings including meats, veggies or seafood.  We decided to make a meal out of them and go on an empanada crawl across the city, trying as many vegetarian and pescatarian flavors as possible from multiple restaurants. 

Los Inmigrantes - Sucursal Ciudad.  A pizza parlor and empanadera with several types of baked empanadas. We tried four types, the corn with cheese, shrimp with cheese, onion with cheese and spinach with onion. They had a homemade look and taste to them. 

Harry’s.  A chain restaurant and empanadera with a countertop display of dozens of empanadas ready to order. We visited two locations, trying the tuna, sweet corn, corn with cheese and fried shrimp with cheese. They had a homemade look and taste to them. 

De un Rincón de la Boca.  A pizzeria with pizza flavored empanadas on the menu. Most have meat however, we tried the one veggie option, the caprese. The dough wrapped a tasty filling of tomato, mozzarella and basil. 

Costumbres Argentinas.  A fast food style deli with desserts, sandwiches and of course empanadas. We tried the vegan version with seasoned soy protein and another stuffed with corn, onion and cheese. They looked a little sad and tasted the most processed. 

Have a Picnic!

We visited the Mercado Central and bought an assortment of goodies to create our own Picada style picnic. From the various vendors, we bought a bottle of Malbec, baked empanadas, green olives, fresh apricots, cherry tomatoes, a triangle of cheese, dried breads and alfajores. We brought our spoils to a shaded spot overlooking the lake in Parque San Martin and enjoyed for the afternoon. 

Argentine Cuisine  

Outside of empanadas, wine and meat, Argentina has a few more popular staples of their cuisine.

Picadas.  Argentinian style charcuterie or plates of “pickings” often including cheeses, pickled veggies and meats. 

Rabas.  Fat rings of Argentinian style fried calamari. It’s a common restaurant appetizer and snack at bars.

Milanesa.  The classic Italian dish of a breaded and fried protein is popular across Mendoza. Unable to find a vegetarian version, we made our own Eggplant Milanesa with a tomato and onion sauce. 

Medialunas.  Sweet Argentine style croissants often served at breakfast. 

Alfajores. Two sugar cookies with a generous layer of dulce de leche sandwiched in between and coated in coconut shavings or covered in chocolate. 

Olives.  In addition to grape vineyards, olive groves are plentiful across the region. Pickled olives, olive pate and olive oils are common snacks and ingredients on menus. 

Fugazza.  Argentinean style pizza made with a thin crust and fluffy dough topped with any number of toppings. Traditional places bake it in a coal or wood fired oven. 

Provoleta.  Grilled and melted Argentinean provolone cheese seasoned with oregano and olive oil. It’s often served with bread for dipping.

Local Beers.  Outside of wine, Mendoza has a small beer scene with breweries, beer gardens and local beers. 

• Cerveza Patagonia.  An Argentinian brewery with a range of locally brewed beers. We ordered the Vera IPA, a mildly hoppy and citrusy beer, and the Lager del Sur, an easy drinking beer with a slight sweetness. 

• Chachingo Arístides.  A craft beer garden with a menu of locally brewed beers. We tried the Blonde Ale, light and refreshing, and IPA, mild and hoppy. 

• Andes Origen.   A local brand of beer with several varieties. It’s advertised and seen on menus across the city. We tried the Roja, a light and nutty flavor with a slight sweetness. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Soberana.  One of the fancier restaurants in the town in a contemporary building.  We ordered the burrata, basket breads and seafood pasta to share. 

Che Picadas.  A restaurant serving Picadas (Argentinian style charcuterie). They provide a platter of them for free with any order of food! We ordered the classic spread for two with a Spanish tortilla, six caprese empanadas and rabas (calamari).

Zitto.  A chain restaurant and bar with a 2x5 happy hour. After walking around, we cooled down and relaxed with two Aperol Spritz. 

Va Vene.  A cafe chain with locations across the city with alfajores, frozen pasta and coffee. 

La Dolce.  A house in the Maipu Valley converted into a cafe with artisan coffee and sweet breakfast dishes like medialunas, waffles and pancakes. Try the waffles covered in dulce de leche and sliced bananas. 

Location Specifics

Safety. Mendoza is generally safe however petty theft, pickpocketing and snatch and grabs can happen. Keep phones and wallets in front pockets while walking around. Never place phones or wallets on the table or bar when dining out.

Bottle vs. Glass of Wine. Outside of vineyards, most restaurants and bars only serve wine by the bottle though there’s typically a house red and white by the glass. When dining out, a glass of wine is cheaper than a cup of coffee.

Cash vs. Card. Credit and debit cards are widely accepted. 

Tipping. Gratuities are almost always given in cash. 10% is the generally accepted amount. 

Restaurant Hours. Many restaurants don’t open for dinner until after 8pm.

Getting Around. The city center is very walkable but use Ubers or taxis for longer distances. 

Elsewhere in Argentina 

From Mendoza's wine country and Andean foothills to Buenos Aires' cultural energy and Patagonia's glacial wilderness, discover more of Argentina beyond the vineyards through these travel guides:

Buenos Aires Travel Guide: Neighborhoods, Food & Nightlife. Wander through Buenos Aires' historic neighborhoods where elegant architecture, local markets, vibrant nightlife and a culinary scene shape Argentina's cultural capital.

Patagonia Argentina Travel Guide: Perito Moreno Glacier, El Calafate & Fitz Roy.  Explore Patagonia's dramatic landscapes where glaciers, turquoise lakes, snow capped mountains and alpine towns define Argentina's remote southern frontier.

For Next Time…

Tour the Uco Valley.  A wine producing region about an hour south of Mendoza with vineyards and wine tours. 

Nature Sights.  Outside of visiting vineyards and drinking wine, we would return to see some of the region's natural sights including:

• Parque Provincial Aconcagua.  An Andean park with the tallest mountain in the Southern and Western hemispheres. On a clear day, it’s visible from Mendoza.

• Lago Potrerillos.  A deep blue reservoir in the foothills of the Andes Mountains with boating, hiking and watching the sunset.

Lake Titicaca Travel Guide: Floating Islands & Indigenous Culture

Lake Titicaca

Lake Titicaca is a massive Andean lake bordering both Peru and Bolivia. It’s culturally significant for its floating villages, terraced agricultural islands, colorful handmade textiles and dishes made from lake fish. We spent three full days on the lake, exploring both the Peruvian and Bolivian shores. 

The Uros Islands, Peru

The Uros Islands are a series of floating islands on Lake Titicaca made from buoyant mud bricks and totora, a reedlike grass that grows in the shallows and marshes of the lake. 

The Totora

The totora is invaluable to the Uro people. It’s grown, harvested and dried then woven into blankets and bundles for use. It’s used to make everything from the floating islands themselves, to the houses people inhabit, the benches people sit on, the boats they navigate with and even hats, umbrellas and sculptures. 

Everything made from the totora needs to be maintained. Each morning, boats carry fresh cut totora to the islands. The fresh totora is layered across the surface of the islands monthly while houses, boats and sculptures are remade every two years. The islands, if maintained, can float for up to 40 years before needing to be rebuilt. 

Life on the Islands

Each island houses a family with different structures used for sleeping, storage and eating. The grandparents even have a special cone shaped house that sets them apart as the elders while most others have a standard pentagon shape. 

Fishing used to be the primary business for the Uro people. Today it’s tourism and handicrafts. This allows them to continue their way of life and share their community with the world. They gifted us handmade necklaces. We purchased a hand-stitched table runner and a totora basket for breads and fruits. 

Home Stay at Isla Jacha Challwa

We stayed with a family while visiting the Uros Islands. They named their island, Isla Jacha Challwa, which translates to giant fish. They even built a lookout tower with a giant totora fish for its design! As we explored the island, the totora crunched beneath our feet and the entire island rocked gently as passing boats created a small wake. 

The house we stayed in was covered in the dried totora and the interior was decorated with colorful woven textiles. It had a patio that opened up to the lake with lounge chairs and an outdoor bed topped with a large woven hat for shade. We napped here and watched the sunset. Book here.

Caballitos de Totora (Totora Boats)

Caballitos de totora are the traditional boats used by the Uro people. Made from totora, they’re shaped into the body of a snake with the head of a puma. The larger boats are made from two smaller ones adjoined by a wooden platform. Some even have a sculpture of a condor or the sun as decoration. Many are left natural while others are painted in a yellow protective coating. The smaller boats are hand paddled while the larger ones are tugged by a motor boat. 

Touring the Uros Islands

Our host took us on a tour of the islands, a sunset boat ride, net fishing and even let us attempt to paddle the boat. He shared stories of his father and grandfather, said to be the best fishermen on the lake. The matriarch caught fish and cooked meals for us including pan fried trout from the lake and soup made from our fresh catch.

On our boat tour, we slowly passed nearly every island in the community, admiring the golden color from the thatched surfaces, the colorful textiles and unique styles of the boats. The islands are very welcoming of visitors, with home stays, small restaurants serving local cuisine and tiny shops. They have their own hospital, communal place of worship and elementary school. 

Restaurant Titicaca

A popular lunch spot on the Uros Islands with traditional cuisine from Lake Titicaca. Trucha (trout) is the star of the menu. It’s prepared pan fried, deep fried or as ceviche, all with sides of Peruvian potatoes and rice. We dined in a pavilion, watching colorful boats pass by and enjoying the lake views. 

Isla Taquile, Peru

Taquile Island is an island on Lake Titicaca fully covered in agricultural terraces and internationally recognized for the cultural significance of its textiles. We took a half day tour to the island to explore its cuisine, textiles and landscape. Taquile Island is located 1 hour 30 minutes by ferry from the Uros Islands with tours departing at 10am and returning at 4pm. 

The tour was simple, stopping on the island for a local lunch of pan fried trout, quinoa bread and quinoa soup. At the same time, we learned about the textiles and hats, primarily used to differentiate relationship status and mood. This was followed by a visit to an artisanal market with colorful and handmade woven items like hats, scarves, gloves, bracelets and bags. 

Continuing, we walked along the island, overlooking agricultural terraces primarily used to grow potato, quinoa and corn. We passed walls of precariously stacked stones, pink and yellow wildflowers used to make textile dyes and cliffs with views of the expansive lake. 

Copacabana, Bolivia

Copacabana is a colorful Bolivian town located on the eastern shores of Lake Titicaca. We spent an afternoon exploring the city, paddling around the lakefront and hiking to a mountaintop overlook. 

While walking through town, women are seen dressed in traditional Andean attire selling fruits and veggies, friendly stray dogs run around and sleep in the streets, backpackers arrive and depart by bus regularly and cars receive blessings while being decorated with strings of flowers and bouquets. 

Around Town

Av. Costanera.  A dirt road parallel to the city harbor with local food kiosks, hotels with lake front views, swan style paddle boats and companies selling tours to the nearby islands. 

Av 6 de Augusto.  The main road through Copacabana with hostels, cafes, bars, restaurants, money exchanges, tour operators and souvenir shops. Many restaurants offer 2x1 happy hours and have simple menus consisting of lake trout, pizza and pasta. 

Al Paseo de Las Pasancallas.  A market street with local vendors selling dry goods like peanuts, roasted beans, quinoa, puffed grains, popcorn and candies. 

Copacabana Square / Plaza 2 de Febrero.  The central town square with a red brick plaza and well manicured trees in front of the Basílica de la Virgen de Copacabana. 

Basílica of Our Lady of Copacabana.  A historic cathedral with a white painted exterior accented with Portuguese tiled moldings and bell towers. 

Things to Do 

Hike Cerro El Calvario.  A steep hike up rocky steps to a mountaintop lookout with views of Copacabana. From the summit, the clay tiled walls, colorful tin roofs and vibrantly painted facades of buildings of the city quickly blur into the countryside. Along the shore, fishing boats and tour ships are moored throughout the crescent shaped harbor while the expansive blue lake stretches far across the horizon. 

Rent A Paddle Boat.  Rent a yellow duck paddle boat and float around the harbor for half an hour, looking back at the colorful city and mountains as the gentle waves rock the boat from side to side.

Places to Eat, Drink & Stay 

Hostal La Cúpula.  A hotel on the hill overlooking Copacabana with dome shaped buildings and flowering gardens. We came here for lunch at their restaurant, El Condor & The Eagle Cafe, a relaxing spot with a small dining room and outdoor patio with views of the city and harbor. The menu offers sandwiches and salads. 

Hostal Las Olas.  A one of a kind hotel with organic shell shaped architecture, tree houses, curved walls and colored glass windows on the hill overlooking Copacabana. Though we didn’t stay here, we stopped to admire the property. 

Winay Marka.  A restaurant and bar with a rooftop overlooking Lake Titicaca and the harbor. A relaxing atmosphere to enjoy a cocktail with Reggae vibes and natural decor like wicker furniture, Bolivian textile cushions and totora umbrellas.

Nimbo Café Restaurant.  A family run restaurant along Av 6 de Augusto with happy hour cocktails and a large range of pizzas. 

Location Specifics

The Climate.  The climate is cool year round with slightly warmer temperatures during the day and freezing temperatures at night. It’s dry most of the year except for the rainy season from January to March. 

Getting Here.  The best way to reach the Uros Islands is by traveling to the city of Puno, from either Cusco or Arequipa by bus. The best way to reach Copacabana is from Puno or La Paz by bus. We took the Peru Hop bus on our journey around Lake Titicaca.

Elsewhere in Peru 

From the sacred waters of Lake Titicaca to the peaks of the Andes, colonial cities and desert landscapes, explore more of Peru's diverse regions through these travel guides: 

Peru Coast Travel Guide: Nazca Lines, Huacachina & Ancient Civilizations.  Venture along Peru's coast where ancient civilizations, desert oases, vineyards and world renowned cuisine shape one of South America's most unique regions.

Peru Andes Travel Guide: Machu Picchu, Cusco & Inca Ruins.  Wander through Peru's Andes where ancient Inca ruins, terraced farmland, colorful mountain landscapes and Andean communities preserve centuries of tradition.

Arequipa Peru Travel Guide: Colonial Architecture, Food & Culture.  Explore Arequipa's historic streets where colonial architecture, regional cuisine and volcanic landscapes shape one of Peru's cultural capitals.

For Next Time…

Next time we visit Lake Titicaca, we plan to spend more time in Copacabana and visiting the nearby Incan Islands. 

• Isla del Sol.  A sacred island on Lake Titicaca with dozens of Incan temple ruins, a terraced landscape and numerous home stays. The Incans believed the sun god originated from here.

• Isla del Luna.  A small island with a terraced landscape and the ruins of a temple.

Rio de Janeiro Travel Guide: Beaches, Landmarks & Local Culture

A Week in Rio de Janeiro

Rio de Janeiro is a vibrant and magical Brazilian city known for its energetic atmosphere, famed white sand beaches, jungelous hiking trails, breathtaking landscapes, sprawling favelas and all night samba parties. We spent a week in Rio exploring the city by neighborhood, getting a feeling for each one's character, sights and beaches.

Santa Teresa

Santa Teresa is a hilly neighborhood with winding cobblestone streets, scenic viewpoints overlooking neighboring favelas, a restored tram, colorful street murals, and Brazilian restaurants.

Santa Teresa Tram.  A historic yellow tram that rides through the Santa Teresa neighborhood past its landmarks and sights, making quick stops at stations along the way. We took the tram from the main station near the Metropolitan Cathedral into the neighborhood to the top of the hill. From here, we hopped off and walked back down, exploring the neighborhood on foot.

Good to Know.  Purchase tram tickets at the station at 9am to avoid the crowds.

Largo dos Guimarães.  The small central plaza in Santa Teresa with a tram station and a street with several cute cafes, vintage style restaurants and Brazilian shops.

Casanossa.  A beautiful restaurant along the Santa Teresa tram route with a multilevel outdoor courtyard under the dappled lighting of trees with views of the hilltop architecture. We came here for lunch, ordering the bolinhos de bacalhau, ceviche and a cold Brazilian beer. 

Urca

Urca is a neighborhood at the base of the Sugarloaf Mountain. The residential area around the mountain has views of the harbor, beautiful small beaches, tree lined streets with flowering plants, German style houses, VW Beetles and a historic military base.

Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf Mountain).  An iconic granite mountain with panoramic views of Rio, the harbor and ocean. We took the cable car up to smaller Urca Mountain then to Sugarloaf Mountain. From the summit of each, we overlooked the city from all angles, watched airplanes fly closely overhead and spotted people climbing the sheer granite cliffs. The smaller mountain has a garden with nature trails where we spotted a tiny monkey climbing in a tree. Both mountains have numerous cafes, restaurants, food stands, bars and shops at their summits. While taking in the views, we ordered a coffee and brigadeiro, a Brazilian truffle.

Good to Know.  Only go on a clear and sunny day. We purchased our tickets online ahead of time for the 9am entry to beat the crowds. Book here.

Praia Vermelha (Red Beach).  A small beach named after its red hued sand at the base of the Sugarloaf Mountain. Come here to listen to the waves crash while relaxing in a beach chair under an umbrella with a fresh coconut. 

Maria Açaí.  A local restaurant chain for sweetened cups of açaí with a range of toppings like coconut, granola and nuts.

Copacabana Beach

Copacabana is famous for its yellow sand beach lined with colorful umbrellas and thousands of people relaxing under the Brazilian sun. At barracas (beach tents), vendors rent lounge chairs and umbrellas, sell coconuts,  tropical cocktails and beverages. Food vendors walk the beach pushing carts with boiled corn, carry portable grills with smoked cheese and trays of skewered shrimp while others sell cigarettes and drugs.

All kinds of people visit Copacabana Beach. Vendors fly dozens of flags as welcoming symbols to attract foreign tourists, sports fans, gays and other Brazilians. There’s not a specific gay section though most gays congregate anywhere around the large and numerous rainbow flags. It can be a sporty spot. We watched as guys foot volley and others jogged by shirtless along the promenade while we sipped on caipirinhas.

Atlantic Promenade.  The black and white tiled promenade is lined with beachside restaurants and bars. We walked along its entire length, taking advantage of the 2 for $R20 caipirinhas ($3.50 USD). Across the street, along Atlantic Avenue, skyscrapers, upscale restaurants, hotels and residences provide a metropolitan feeling to the beachy atmosphere. There’s no bad spot along Copacabana Beach, but the best views are from the west looking towards Sugarloaf Mountain.

Joaquina Restaurant.  A restaurant in Copacabana with contemporary versions of classic Brazilian dishes and cocktails made with Brazilian fruits and syrups. We ordered the tapioca breaded shrimp with passion fruit mango sauce and the seafood moqueca made with dorado, plantain, farina and a thick fish broth. 

Ipanema Beach

Ipanema is known for its iconic yellow sand beach similar in many regards to Copacabana. It’s popular for swimming, surfing, foot volley and sunsets with over 100 barracas selling drinks, snacks and beachwear. The gays like to congregate between Barracas 57-64. Its tiled promenade is routinely used for walking, jogging and biking and admiring the elegant architecture. The best views are looking west towards Morro Dois Irmãos.

Arpoador Rock. A rocky outcrop with trails overlooking Ipanema Beach. It’s a popular spot to watch the sunset and take surf lessons. 

Leblon Beach.  A continuation of Ipanema Beach west of the canal in the wealthiest neighborhood of the city. 

Little Africa

Little Africa is a historic neighborhood home to a large Afro-Brazilian population, many of whom are the descendants of enslaved Africans brought to Brazil. Come here to learn about the neighborhood’s history, see the quilombos (favelas), admire the street art and dance to live Samba music.  

Museu da História e da Cultura Afro-Brasileira (MUHCAB).  Located in Little Africa, this museum is dedicated to Afro-Brazilian history and culture with exhibits from African enslavement, to emancipation and modern day. The museum features artwork, sculptures, textiles, artifacts and Samba music. 

Pedra do Sal.  Considered the birthplace of Samba, this historic spot in Rio’s Little Africa is home to a nightly party with live Samba music. Under the cover of a colorful tent, the street has an electric atmosphere with feeling for favela culture. Music emanates between buildings as people dance in the street and sing along in unison. The street is lined with bar carts serving strong caipirinhas and restaurants selling Brazilian snacks. The party starts at sunset and continues into the early morning with Monday and Friday being the liveliest nights. 

Escada da Bandeira do Brasil.  A small staircase painted in the Brazilian flag at the end of a historic alleyway. 

Vidigal Favela 

Vidigal is a favela built on the side of the Morro Dois Irmãos. It’s the ‘safest’ of the favelas in Rio and welcoming of tourists with guided tours. We visited with a local guide who toured us through the favela, showed us how people live and explained its history with gangs and government “pacification.” 

Vidigal is a densely populated community with narrow winding walkways, steep staircases and unfinished houses built on the hill in very close proximity to each other. The main road through the favela has all the businesses you would typically see in a neighborhood including grocery stores, restaurants, bars, auto shops, churches, laundromats, a health clinic and a post office. The upper area of the favela has a black market, rooftop bars and outdoor patios overlooking it and Ipanema. We stopped at one for a cold beer while enjoying the view. 

The favela is “pacified” by the police but controlled by the Comando Vermelho gang. Their gang sign, CV, was graffitied everywhere in the favela while gang members carrying assault rifles were omnipresent. Though we didn’t feel unsafe, it was good to have a guide helping us navigate through a traditionally unsafe community. 

Morro Dois Irmãos.  A mountain with twin granite peaks known as “The Two Brothers.” The mountain has hiking trails with views of Rio’s largest favela, Rocinha and of Ipanema Beach from the summit.   

We took moto-taxis through the Vidigal Favela to reach the trail head. The trail led up rustic stairs until reaching a view of Rocinha. Along the way, we spotted a family of capuchin monkeys feating on jackfruit in a tree. We hiked even further up the dirt trail until reaching the summit of “Big Brother” where we were fully in the clouds. After waiting around, we got to see glimpses of Ipanema beach through brief clearings. Book here.

El Centro

El Centro is the historic and cultural hub of the city known for its architecture, museums and plazas. We spent time walking around the neighborhood, following the patterns of tiny black and white stones laid into the sidewalks. Narrow cobblestone streets are lined with ornate historic buildings and wide avenues with modern skyscrapers and elegant neo-classical landmarks. 

Museu de Arte do Rio.  A contemporary art museum with galleries dedicated to local artists. We visited during their exhibit on Funk music. The exhibit was laid out in two parts: one related to the historical context of Funk, going back to Black artists from the 70s, and the second depicting contemporary Funk music in favelas.

Museu di Amanhã (Museum of Tomorrow).  A beautiful, insightful, thought provoking and at times overwhelming museum dedicated to Earth and humanity. Through a series of interactive, descriptive and digital exhibits, the museum builds empathy and connects us as individuals to each other, the planet and our future. 

Royal Portuguese Reading Room.  A gothic style library with a central atrium surrounded by multiple levels and walls of vertically stacked antique Portuguese books.

Metropolitan Cathedral.  A brutalist concrete cathedral shaped like a cone with 4 vertical stripes of colorful stained glass meeting at a clear cross in the cathedral’s ceiling. 

Municipal Theater.  An elegant theater with a domed roof, stone exterior, golden statues and bronze moldings. 

Praça Quinze de Novembro.  A plaza in the central neighborhood with stately neoclassical buildings. 

Lapa

Lapa is a small but central neighborhood known for its nightlife, street art and the Escadaria Selarón. The neighborhood can be a bit dicey during the daytime and we suspect even more so at nighttime. 

Escadaria Selarón.  A beautiful mosaic tiled staircase in the Lapa neighborhood. It’s a very popular selfie spot with many tourists walking up the stairs and posing for photos. There are vendors selling caipirinhas from their homes. We ordered a large one for R$8, sat on the steps and people watched. At its base is a street lined with bars, restaurants and murals. 

Arcos da Lapa.  A white arched aqueduct converted into part of the Santa Teresa Tram route. There are many homeless people sleeping under the arches. 

Christ The Redeemer

The iconic statue of Christ with his arms outstretched atop the mountain overlooking Rio. On a clear day, he’s visible from across the city, peeking between skyscrapers and smaller mountains. 

Trem do Corcovado. A train that goes up the mountain to reach Christ the Redeemer. We booked our tickets a few days ahead of time for 7:20 on a clear morning. The best views of the statue are in the morning light while the best views of the city are in the afternoon. Even in the early morning, the summit was crowded with people taking selfies and admiring the view. Book here.

Botafogo & Flamengo

Botafogo and Flamengo are two adjacent neighborhoods with beaches, cafes, restaurants, bars and hotels.

Botafogo Beach.  A half moon shaped white sand beach with picturesque views of the ship dotted harbor and Sugarloaf Mountain. The water is often non-swimmable due to sewage and pollution.

Flamengo Beach.  A lengthy white sand beach with sun-kissed beach goers, vendors selling fresh coconuts, toned people flexing at the outdoor gyms, tournaments of Brazilian foot volley and a park with gardens and cycling paths. 

Av. Infante Don Henrique.  A scenic waterfront trail connecting both Flamengo and Botafogo Beaches with views of the harbor, Sugarloaf Mountain and Christ the Redeemer. People come here to take a leisurely stroll, jog, exercise and bike.

Brewteco Botafogo.  A rooftop restaurant and bar overlooking Botafogo Beach and Sugarloaf Mountain. Come here for shareable appetizers like fried tapioca cheese bites and Brazilian beers including their house brewed beers.

Flor de Cactus.  A coffee shop with sandwiches, pastries and locally made goods like honey, dried beans, hot sauce and juice. 

Brazilian Cuisine

Feijoada.  A traditional Brazilian stew made from black beans and multiple meats. It’s commonly served with rice and sliced oranges. We cooked a vegan version of it at our Airbnb. 

Moqueca.  A traditional Brazilian stew made with fish, shrimp, plantains, coconut milk, tomatoes and spices. 

Pastel.  A fried or baked squared shaped pastry filled with any number of proteins from meats to cheese.

Pão de Queijo.  Tasty and addicting Brazilian rolls made with cheese and tapioca flour. They are popular everywhere in Brazil and common at breakfast. 

Queijo Coalho.  A popular Brazilian snack made from skewered cheese grilled over coals, covered in honey and sprinkled with oregano. 

Bolinhos.  Crispy fried cod fritters. They’re popular as appetizers at restaurants and bars. 

Brigadeiro.  A Brazilian truffle made from a chocolatey caramel covered in chocolate sprinkles. 

Pipoca (Popcorn).  Served at food carts throughout Rio, try it buttered, salted or glazed in caramel.

Palmito.  Known as heart of palm, it’s common in salads. 

Açaí.  The tiny Amazonian super fruit from the Açaí palm. By itself, it has a bitter blackberry like flavor. It’s often served as a sorbet with other fruits, granola and honey.

Coconuts.  Fresh coconuts sold whole and sliced open with a machete are synonymous with Brazil! The refreshing and tasty drinks are served on beaches across Rio for around $R10.

Caipirinha.  A cocktail made from sliced limes and sugar muddled together shaken with cachaça, a little water and ice. It’s essentially a Brazilian margarita. They’re sold from street vendors, at beaches, bars and restaurants across Rio. 

Guaraná Antarctica.  A very popular Brazilian soda made from the guaraná fruit. It has a fuzzy cane sugar like flavor. 

Brazilian Beers.  There are three popular and inexpensive Brazilian beers sold almost everywhere. Brahma which is the most popular followed by Skol and Original. 

Where to Stay

We stayed at an Airbnb overlooking Botafogo Beach and Sugarloaf Mountain. With its views, it was the most dreamy location we could have imagined staying in Rio while giving us beach access to lay out under the Brazilian sun. 

Location Specifics

Language. Portuguese is the national language of Brazil. Even in a city like Rio, very few people speak English. We got by on some basic Portuguese phrases and words combined with some Spanish and Google Translate. 

LGBTQ+ Acceptance. From rainbow flags at beaches to meeting other Brazilians from across the spectrum, Rio is very welcoming of LGBTQ+ tourists.

Drinking Water.  The tap water is technically safe to drink in Rio; however it has an unpleasant taste. It’s best to drinking bottled or filtered water.

Cash.  Very few places accept cash. The ones that do don’t often have change for larger bills like 50s or 100s.

Beaches.  The beaches were surprisingly clean across Rio with little to no trash anywhere on shore. 

Weather.  Though the air temperature was warm, the water was still very cold in the early spring (mid October). 

Getting Around. Ubers and yellow taxis are plentiful and inexpensive to get around the city as well as the airport. 

Safety

Be Aware.  Despite everyone’s warning, we felt very safe in Rio. Like in most cities, we were aware of our surroundings, kept our phones and wallets in our front pockets, double checked directions and used instincts before walking down a street. 

Avoiding Favelas.  Favelas are notoriously dangerous due to the high risk of violent crime and best avoided. Even on a guided tour like we took in Vidigal, our safety couldn’t be guaranteed.

We used the satellite view on our maps app to determine if an area may be a favela. Generally, high density areas with tin roofs and no defined streets are favelas. Areas with clay tiled roofs, skyscrapers and defined streets are generally safer neighborhoods.

The north side of the city between the international airport and El Centro should be avoided. This is the most dangerous region with several favelas. 

Beaches.  To avoid theft on the beaches, we kept our valuables out of reach of anyone passing by. People mentioned not to visit the beaches at night however we didn’t see any issues. Most beaches including Copacabana, Ipanema and Botafogo are well lit and well utilized at night. 

Elsewhere in Brazil 

From Rio’s iconic beaches and mountain viewpoints to the depths of the Amazon rainforest and river systems, discover more of Brazil’s diverse landscapes.

Brazilian Amazon Travel Guide: Manaus, River Cruises & Indigenous Culture.  Cruise through the Brazilian Amazon where remarkable wildlife, Indigenous cultures and vast rainforest landscapes define one of Earth's greatest ecosystems.

For Next Time… 

Having caught a cold during our time in Rio, it limited our ability to do and see everything we had hoped. Next time we return, we plan to do and visit some of the sites we missed:

• Take Surf Lessons at Amador or Grumari beaches.

• Go on a boat tour of the Cagarras Islands, a protected nature reserve off the coast of Rio. 

• Hike to the summit of Pedra Bonita, one of the city’s tallest granite peaks.

• Visit during Carnival, the world’s largest party with parades, music festivals and feathered dancers.

Brazilian Amazon Travel Guide: Manaus, River Cruises & Indigenous Culture

The Amazon Rainforest

The Brazilian Amazon is a vast rainforest covering Northern Brazil and a large area of the South American continent. It’s home to the Amazon Rainforest and River, an immense amount of biodiversity and wildlife, indigenous tribes, eco-activities, river cruises and millions of people. We spent over a week in the region, splitting our time between a multi night river boat tour and in the city of Manaus. 

Multi Day River Cruise

We booked a four day, three night river boat tour of the Amazon and Rio Negro from Manaus. We cruised up and down the river, stopping at various white sand beaches to swim in the piranha infested waters and with pink river dolphins. By day, our guide brought us hiking and camping in the rainforest, to cooling cold springs, on a tour of an indigenous village, fishing for piranha and searching for caiman. At night, we slept in woven hammocks stretching across the upper deck of the wooden river boat. All meals were included, including several Amazonian fish dishes and fruit juices. 

Amazonian Rivers 

We visited two Amazonian rivers on our tour. The mighty Amazon River, its largest tributary, the Rio Negro and the location where both rivers meet.

The Amazon River.  The world’s largest river, winding 4,000 miles across South America. Its muddy brown waters are a lifeline to the Amazon Rainforest, its biodiversity and indigenous communities. 

The Rio Negro.  The largest tributary feeding the Amazon River named after its dark colored water. By volume, it’s one of the largest rivers in the world. 

The Meeting Waters.  The location where the milky brown water of the Amazon River and dark brown waters of the Rio Negro meet. 

The Amazon - Day One

We spent our first day in the Amazon on the Rio Negro and our first night, sleeping in a hammock within the jungle.  

At the Manaus Harbor, we boarded a speed boat and navigated through a storm and choppy water along the Rio Negro to reach The Meeting Waters where we floated between both rivers. We returned to Manaus where we refueled, stocked up on groceries and ate breakfast at a floating gas station before continuing up river. From the bow of the boat, the Rio Negro stretched far over the horizon. Along its banks were surprisingly white sand beaches, dense tree lines and the occasional river boat, eventually including ours. Arriving at the boat, the crew welcomed us on board and showed us to the upper deck where we would be sleeping in hammocks for the following nights. We relaxed for the afternoon, enjoying fried pirarucu and cashew juice for lunch. 

Late in the afternoon, we packed an overnight bag with our hammocks and were led ashore and into the jungle by our guide. Along the trail, he stopped to point out Amazonian fruits, medicinal plants, poisonous spiders and demonstrated how the rubber tree is processed. As night fell, we made camp under a small hut, hung our hammocks and ate fried piranha for dinner. While lying in our hammocks, the noise of the jungle kept us awake for some time. We listened to the roar of howler monkeys, chirps of crickets, croaks of frogs, squawks of birds and hum of cicadas fill the air.

The Amazon - Day Two

We spent our second day in the Amazon swimming in the Rio Negro, relaxing in our hammocks and cooling off in a cold stream. 

After our night in the jungle, we returned to the river boat for eggs, tropical fruits and avocado juice. While eating, we cruised down river and moored at a white sand beach. We spent the morning here sunbathing on shore, spotting dolphins and swimming in the warm waters of the Rio Negro. As we swam, little fish nibbled at our toes, thankfully not a school of piranha! For lunch, the crew grilled fish, tambaqui de banda, an Amazonian staple. We spent the afternoon on board, feasting on the meal, sipping on Brazilian beer and relaxing in our hammocks.

As the late afternoon heat peaked, our guide brought us ashore to bathe in a cold stream at the base of the indigenous Tatuyo Village, which translates to “Big Snake.” In the village, we visited an indigenous friend of our guide, who invited us into his palm thatched home for coffee. At sunset, we made our way back to the boat, meeting the village Shaman along the way. He invited us back to the village the next morning for a ceremonial ritual. 

After sunset and dinner, we laid in our hammocks, reminiscing on the day as the gentle waves rocked the boat and us to sleep. 

The Amazon - Day Three

We spent our third day in the Amazon at the indigenous village of Tatuyo for a ritual ceremony, bathing in a cold spring, fishing for piranha and spotting caiman. 

As dawn broke, we woke up to warmth of the sun hitting our hammocks and met the crew downstairs for breakfast. Once we finished eating, we returned to the Village of Tatuyo for the ceremonial ritual. The shaman and several others, dressed in ceremonial attire, greeted us at a large palm thatched pavilion with wooden walls painted in a snake like pattern. Women wore large feather earrings that covered their breasts, açaí bead necklaces and grass skirts. Men wore feather headpieces, caiman and jaguar teeth necklaces and skirts made of leaves. All of which had red painted patterns on their faces similar to the ones on the walls of the pavilion. 

The shaman explained the ritual and ceremonial dances they were going to share with us. Each symbolized an important moment in a person’s life while the final dance is used for general celebrations. Led by two women, we were able to participate in the latter. Each dance was unique, involving different flute like musical instruments, songs and choreography. The group danced in circular, spiral and figure eight patterns as the smell of incense filled the pavilion. 

Once the ritual ceremony had completed, we met our guide’s friend who showed us a cold spring where we bathed in the refreshingly cool water. After cooling off, we returned to the boat for lunch and to hike along the river bank listening to macaws and howler monkeys in the jungle. 

Near sunset, we cruised to a cove to fish for piranha! Using bamboo poles baited with meat, we splashed them around in the water to attract piranha. Within seconds one would bite, often tearing off the bait. Luckily our guide caught several piranha which the crew fried in farina for dinner. 

After dark, we took the speedboat to look for caiman, shining a light along the shoreline looking for the glow of their eyes. The light attracted tiny fish that jumped out of the water, one landing in my lap (thankfully not a piranha). Within moments, we spotted a caiman lurking in the shallows. After a very full day, we returned to the riverboat and fell asleep on deck in our hammocks.

The Amazon - Day Four

We spent our fourth day in the Amazon swimming with pink river dolphins and relaxing at a beach before returning to Manaus. 

We woke up to breakfast with fresh fruit and tapioquinha while watching pink river dolphins swim around the boat. In a nearby cove, we watched as a handler fed the dolphins fish. Up close, we could admire them in detail. They have pink skin with grey splotches, long mouths lined with rows of nail like teeth and a wide upper fin. In the water, the dolphins swam around our legs, poked their heads up and swam off when fed. It was truly an incredible Amazonian experience! 

After swimming with the dolphins, the crew began preparing lunch, tambaqui de banda. As the fish grilled, we stopped to swim at a white sand beach and enjoyed the last meal onboard the boat. After lunch, we napped in our hammocks as we cruised back to Manaus. 

Tips for Cruising The Amazon

Cell Service.  As we expected, this area is very remote, there is little to no cell service or data outside of Manaus. 

Mosquitos.  We brought a mosquito net specifically to cover our hammock at night. In addition, we wore copious amounts of insect repellants when in the jungle. 

Piranha.  The carnivorous fish are generally not attracted to humans. Still, it’s best to avoid entering the water with an open wound, making sudden movements and splashing around. 

Pink River Dolphins.  Unlike many “dolphin encounters” the pink river dolphins are protected and remain wild. It’s regulated how many fish can be fed to them per day as not to build a dependency. 

Cost.  Multi night Amazon tours are not cheap. They can range from several hundred dollars well into the thousands per person. 

Where to Book.  We booked our tour with Amazon Amazing Tours on Get Your Guide. It was one of the more cost effective tours and well worth the experience! 

Amazonian Cuisine 

A huge part of our time in the Amazon was trying the cuisine! The flavors of the Amazon are as vast as the rainforest itself including tropical fruits, starchy root vegetables, fresh water river fish and even insects. 

Amazonian Fruit 

Açaí.  The tiny Amazonian super fruit from the Açaí palm. By itself, it has a bitter blackberry like flavor. It’s often served as a sorbet with other fruits, granola and honey. Its pits are used for jewelry and decor. 

Cupuaçu.  A brown podlike fruit with a seeded spongy interior. It’s often processed into a cream and added to drinks, desserts and açaí. 

Tapereba.  An Amazonian fruit with an orange skin and the flavor of a plum and mango but less sweet. It’s served in juices, ice cream, fresh or peeled and sautéed. 

Brazil Nut. Technically not a fruit, however the nut is sold at some food carts and stands around Manaus.

Tropical Juices. Many Amazonian fruits are used to make tropical juices including avocado, cashew, maracujá and guava. 

• Avocado Juice.  Avocado blended with milk and sugar. If you’ve never had it, it sounds strange but is tasty and mildly addicting. 

• Cashew Juice.  Juice made from the cashew fruit, the source of the cashew nut. It has a unique, slightly acrid, sweet flavor. When underripe, it has a mango like flavor.

• Maracujá Juice.  The sweet sour juice from passion fruit, with seeds and all.

• Guava Juice.  Juice made from guava, it has a tangy plumelike flavor and creamy texture.   

Other common fruits are watermelon, papaya, pineapple, mango, banana, orange and coconut. 

Amazonian Fish 

Tambaqui.  A popular freshwater fish from the Amazonian rivers. At restaurants, halves of the fish called Tambaqui Banda, are often served grilled or fried for multiple people to share. Its ribs (yes literal ribs), called Tambaqui Costela, are served as individual portions either grilled or fried. The fish can also be prepared in a savory vegetable stew called Caldeirada de Tambaqui. We tried it all ways and it’s easily one of the most flavorful fish we’ve ever tasted!

Pirarucu.  A very large freshwater fish from the Amazonian rivers. It’s a common menu item at restaurants served alone or inside various dishes. It has a tender, buttery texture and the flavor of a white fish. It’s locally known as the “Cod of the Amazon.” Filets measuring a few inches to several feet long can be bought fresh or salted from the fish market. 

Red Bellied Piranha.  The well known tiny carnivorous Amazonian fish with razor like teeth. They are served fried or grilled and have a tender flavor similar to any white fish. Multiple are typically served at once since each only has a few bites of meat. 

Amazonian Dishes  

Farinha.  An Amazonian “grain” specific to the region made from ground cassava prepared in fine to large granules. It’s served as a side and topping on many dishes. 

Tapioquinha.  A Brazilian style crepe made from tapioca flour and filled with Amazonian fruits, eggs, cheese or meats. It’s a popular breakfast dish. 

Ants.  Though not common, they are a delicacy stemming from Indigenous Amazonian tribes. The two most popular are Saúva Ants and Maniwara Ants. The first is a burgundy colored leaf cutter ant with a tangy grassy flavor. The second is a larger tan ant with a sweet toasty flavor. 

Vatapá.  A creamy paste like stew made with coconut milk, shrimp and tomatoes. It has a savory, somewhat bitter and starchy flavor. 

Tacacá.  A soup made from boiled cassava broth, cassava gel, herbal jambu leaves and salted shrimp. It’s traditionally served in a calabash (a bowl made from a gourd) and sipped on using a wooden skewer to eat the jambu greens and shrimp. It’s popular in Amazonia, even on scorching hot days. 

Amazonian Beverages 

Guaraná Antarctica.  A very popular soda made from the guaraná fruit. It has a bubbly honey like flavor. 

Guaraná Baré.  Manaus’s version of Guaraná Antarctica. It has a similar flavor, it is less carbonated and slightly sweeter.

Guaraná Smoothie.  A smoothie made with guaraná syrup and powder mixed with peanuts and milks. 

Caipirinha.  A cocktail made with Cachaça (a Brazilian rum), muddled limes, sugar and ice. It’s commonly served at bars in its classic form or with Amazonian fruit flavors. 

Manaus, Amazonia

Manaus is a city in the heart of the Brazilian Amazon where concrete jungle meets literal jungle. It’s an adventurous hub for Amazonian excursions including multi-night river tours, cultural experiences with indigenous tribes, rainforest hikes and swimming with pink river dolphins. The city is famed across the region for its Amazonian markets, restaurants and historic architecture dating back to the “rubber boom” of the late 1800s. 

See the Sights 

There are many sights to see around Manaus, especially in the city’s central neighborhood including historic landmarks, treelined plazas and indigenous themed murals. Across the city are nature parks, beaches and harbors overlooking the river. 

El Centro.  The historic neighborhood of Manaus with tree lined streets, pink stone roads, beautiful plazas, countless food carts, Amazonian restaurants and colorful Portuguese style architecture decorated with tiled facades. 

Indigenous Artwork.  There is indigenous themed artwork and murals across the city, some spanning the height of entire skyscrapers. The best place to admire the art is around the streets of El Centro. 

Amazon Theater.  A grand and historic theater built from pink and white stones topped with a mosaic tiled dome featuring the Brazilian flag. The interior is elaborately designed with ornate details, velvet seats, warm lighting and multiple levels of opera boxes. 

We visited during the Festival of the Theater of the Amazon and saw a free live performance dedicated to the women of the Amazon. The story spoke to the loss of tradition and indifference felt by many indigenous women through male control and westernization. We watched from an opera box with new friends we met in line. 

Largo de São Sebastião.  A wavy black and white tiled plaza with a large nautical fountain at its center in front of the Amazon Theater. It’s lined with native trees home to tropical birds. We saw flocks of macaws and parakeets fly over, a reminder we were in the Amazon even within the city. The plaza is a hub for music and food! Surrounding restaurants serve Amazonian cuisine while vendors sell tacacá, açaí, cassava chips, popcorn and caipirinhas. 

Museu da Amazonia (MUSA).  A rainforest reserve at the edge of the city with nature trails through the jungle. Come here to overlook the treetop canopy and spot monkeys from the lookout tower, admire the indigenous photography lining the trails and visit exhibits and gardens with Amazonian species including palms, ferns, snakes, spiders, butterflies, cicadas and mushrooms. The park is located about 40-45min from El Centro by Uber or car. Ubers cost about $15 one way.

Parque do Mindu.  A lesser maintained city park with nature trails, açaí palm trees, flocks of parakeets, leaf cutter ants and many flying insects. We walked the trails while listening to the calls of birds including macaws, toucans and mockingbirds. Wear plenty of insect repellant when visiting. 

Praia de Ponta Negra Beach.  A large sandy beach on the Rio Negro with a treelined promenade, volleyball courts, an amphitheater and Barracas, food vendors in beach tents. We bought fresh coconuts to hydrate and açaí sorbet to cool down. There is no shade on the beach however, the Barracas also offer chair and umbrella rentals. People often come here to swim, however when we visited, swimming was banned due to the record drought. The beach is a 20 min Uber ride from El Centro. 

Manaus Harbor.  The harbor is the transport and shipping hub for Manaus and the Amazon region. Many tours and cruises leave from here. When we visited, the water level was so low due to the record drought that the Brazilian government had to begin dredging the harbor. 

Mirante.  A multi-floor complex and port for Amazon cruises with restaurants, cafes, bars, a lookout over the Rio Negro and indigenous themed artwork. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

One of the best ways to try Amazonian cuisine is by eating at local restaurants in Manaus, trying the street food and exploring the markets. 

Tambaqui de Banda.  A restaurant in Largo de São Sebastião that specializes in Amazon fish like the restaurant’s namesake, tambaqui. We ordered the fried tambaqui costela, barbecued pirarucu and shrimp vatapa with sides of farinha. The bar offers specialty cocktails and juices made from Amazonian fruits and Cachaça. Our favorite was the Todo de Amazon, made with açaí, capuaçu foam and guaraná grated using a dried pirarucu tongue. Stick around for happy hour for half off caipirinhas, discounted snacks and live music. 

Biatuwi.  A restaurant specializing in Amazonian dishes traditionally prepared by indigenous tribes. We ordered the tambaqui costela cooked in a cocoa leaf, toasted Saúva and Maniwara ants, and Aluá, a fermented pineapple drink similar to kombucha. All dishes and drinks came out in calabash bowls resting on a ring of dried açaí seeds. 

Coreto dos Manaós.  A restaurant at the Mercado Municipal Adolpho Lisboa with a lush shaded garden. We came here for breakfast to try Tapioquena. We ordered two, one stuffed with tacumã and banana, the other with egg and cheese. 

Tacacá da Gisela.  A popular soup stand specializing in Tacacá located in Largo de São Sebastião. 

Açaí do Largo.  An açaí stand specializing in “Creme de Cupuaçu with Açaí” located in Largo de São Sebastião. 

Sorveteria Glacial - Self Service (Loja 1).  A self service ice cream shop that sells by weight. Come here for exotic flavors only found in the Amazon including fruits and nuts like Açaí, Castanha do Brazil (Brazil nut), Maracujá (passion fruit), Cupuaçu, Tapereba and Doce de Leite. 

Shop the Markets 

Manaus is well known across the Amazon region for its food markets, especially when it comes to Amazonian fish. 

Feira Manaus Moderna.  A massive and bustling food market with aisles of hundreds of vendors selling fish, meats, produce, fruit, cheese and grains. Freshly caught Amazonian fish are delivered directly from the outside pier to fish mongers sharpening knives and preparing them for consumption. Tables are covered in all manner of fish including Tambaqui, Pirarucu, Red Bellied Piranha, Peacock Bass and Spotted Catfish. Elsewhere outside the market, merchants sell fishing supplies including nets, hooks and coolers. 

Feira Moderna da Banana de Manaus.  A large fruit market under a shed with vendors selling bunches of plantains, crates of bananas, fresh juices, sacs of oranges, crates of mangos, piles of watermelons and tables covered in papayas, pineapples and limes. 

Mercado Municipal Adolpho Lisboa.  A historic wrought iron market with restaurants and cafes, Amazonian crafts, meat and fish vendors and medicinal goods including oils, herbs and natural supplements.

Getting Around 

By Uber.  We took Ubers to get around the city. They are extremely affordable, costing $2 - $5 to get around the city and $10 to/from the airport to the city center. 

On Foot.  The El Centro neighborhood of the city is walkable.

Location Specifics

Safety.  It’s smart to be aware of your surroundings. The city has pockets of dodgy areas, even around the El Centro.

Language. Portuguese is the national language of Brazil. Very few people speak English. We got by on some basic Portuguese phrases and words combined with some Spanish and Google Translate. 

LGBTQ+ Safety. We felt safe and welcomed as a gay couple in Manaus, especially in the El Centro. We saw many queer people from across the spectrum, progress flags and even befriended another gay visiting from São Paulo. 

Temperature.  We visited during the dry season. Temperatures reached a peak of 102 Fahrenheit! We avoided the heat when possible and drank between 2-3 liters of water per day to stay hydrated. 

Drinking Water.  It’s not recommended to drink the tap water in Manaus. It should be filtered or boiled before consumption. Stick to bottled water when possible.

Wear Sunblock.  During the dry season, the UV was often very high. Sunblock and umbrellas were necessary to prevent sunburns. 

Insects.  It’s the Amazon; there are insects and mosquitos anywhere near water and in the forest. Insect repellant and mosquito nets are necessary to reduce bites. 

Vaccinations.  We took malaria pills daily while visiting the Amazon as well as received the Yellow Fever vaccine prior to traveling. 

Climate Change 

The Amazon is directly affected by climate change through pollution, deforestation and drought. This was evident during our time in Manaus as we toured the region, spoke with locals and read recent news headlines. 

Pollution Problem. Manaus has an unfortunate pollution problem. There is trash blowing around the central plaza, piling up in the streets and large amounts of waste building up in the waterways, piers and beaches. When we left for our river cruise, the Manaus Harbor looked like a landfill. Fortunately, days later when we returned, city workers had begun cleaning enough waste to fill an entire barge. 

Deforestation. The signs of climate change and habitat loss were visible as we flew over the Amazon. From the air, vast regions of Amazon had been deforested, burnt down or converted to farmland. Even during our river tour, there were ash clouds rising in the distance from forest being burned for agriculture. 

Record Drought. We visited during the Amazon’s worst drought on record, going back 144 years. The mighty Amazon River and its largest tributary, the Rio Negro, had reached record lows. Large sand banks and islands formed in both rivers while floating houses and boats sat on the bottom of dried river beds and smaller tributaries. Even our river boat ran aground in the shallows while the city’s main beach was closed for swimming.

Elsewhere in Brazil 

From the vast Amazon rainforest to Rio de Janeiro’s beaches, landmarks and coastal neighborhoods, continue exploring Brazil’s contrasting environments.

Rio de Janeiro Travel Guide: Beaches, Landmarks & Local Culture.  Experience Rio de Janeiro's iconic beaches, world famous landmarks, samba culture and breathtaking landscapes where city life and natural beauty intertwine. 

For Next Time… 

The Rainy Season.  Having visited during the dry season and worst recorded drought, we would love to return to the Amazon during the rainy season to see the difference in water levels and climate. 

The Western Amazon.  The Amazon stretches across several countries in South America. Having visited the Brazilian and Surinamese Amazon, we have our eyes on seeing areas to the west in Bolivia, Peru, Colombia and Ecuador. 

Suriname Travel Guide: Paramaribo, Rainforest Adventures & Maroon Culture

Suriname

Suriname is a country in the northeast of South America with a Dutch colonial past, vast rainforest and melting pot of cultural influences. We spent over a week exploring its capital city, Paramaribo as well as the Amazon region deep within the interior of the country. 

Paramaribo

Paramaribo is the Dutch Colonial capital of Suriname, also called “the wooden city” for its Dutch style wooden houses and buildings. It’s home to markets, former plantations and museums. It’s the perfect starting point to venture to the interior of the country or along the coast to nature reserves and the neighboring countries.

Neighborhoods & Streets 

Combe.  A neighborhood at the heart of Paramaribo with many historical sights, markets, restaurants and bars, hotels and hostels. 

Van Sommelsdijck Street.  A street with restaurants and various cuisines including Indian, Italian, Indonesian, Mediterranean and Japanese. 

Jessurunstraat.  A street with Dutch style houses, cafes, small inns and hostels, including the one we stayed at.

See the Sights 

Fort Zelandia.  A historic waterfront fort with a hexagonal stone wall, brick courtyard and buildings within. Outside of its walls is the old town with multiple Dutch colonial wooden houses, cannons, and tall trees. 

The fort houses the Suriname Museum, with exhibits telling the history of Suriname from its colonial past to independence with artifacts from enslaved Africans, the Maroon people and Pre-Columbian cultures. 

On the ground floor of the fort is Baka Foto, a refined feeling restaurant and bar with a garden overlooking the river. After touring the fort, we stopped in to sip on Borgoe, a Surinamese rum. It had the sweet spiciness of a rum and flavor of a cognac. 

Waterkant Boulevard.  A waterfront park on the Suriname River with historic Dutch colonial buildings. When we visited, the park was closed for a lengthy renovation. Even so, we got to admire the architecture characterized by its white painted wooden facades, tiled roofs, green window and door moldings and red brick foundation.

Independence Square.  A gravel plaza surrounded by Suriname’s government buildings including the Presidential Palace, House of Justice, National Assembly and Ministry of Finance. 

Presidential Palace.  A large wooden Dutch style mansion home to Suriname’s presidency. 

Palmentuin.  The presidential palm garden with hundreds of towering palm trees, walkways and monuments. Come here to listen to the birds chirping and singing. 

Religious Sights.  Suriname is proud of its cultural diversity, a fact that is evident by its various sights of worship including churches, mosques and Hindu temples across the city. 

• St Peter & Paul Cathedral.  A large wooden basilica with a painted blue, yellow and peach colored facade decorated in Dutch style moldings. 

• Arya Dewaker.  A large Hindu temple with a domed temple hall and Dutch style influences like its symmetrical design and paned windows. 

• Mosque Keizerstraat.  A large beautifully designed mosque with four minarets and a central domed hall. 

• Nevah Shalom Synagogue.  A Dutch style wooden temple with a symmetrical design, white facade, paned windows and tall columns.

Peperpot Nature Park.  Across from Paramaribo on the other side of the Suriname River are many former sugar cane and coffee plantations, since converted into farmland, nature reserves and residential neighborhoods. 

We visited Peperpot, a nature park with lush trails and dirt roadways for walking and biking. Along the trails, we spotted families of squirrel and capuchin monkeys, rainbow lizards, yellow breasted corn birds and scarlet peacock butterflies. Peperpot continued to produce coffee through the mid 1990s. Since then the former Dutch colonial plantation buildings have been converted into a boutique hotel with a restaurant and pool. 

Shop the Markets

Maroon Market.  A market with Maroon women selling organic and handmade items from the Surinamese Amazon. Across the tables of the dimly lit shed are jars with colorful feathers, stacked turtle shells, rams horns, large bunches of leaves used for washing with, oils for skin and hair care, pieces of bark and dried tree sap for burning as incense, wood and root used for medicinal purposes, cassava flour and spices. The women here are friendly and spoke with us about what several items were and how they’re used. Other vendors sell beautifully woven baskets, painted clay pots, bowls carved out of gourds and beaded necklaces. 

Central Market.  A large market with vendors selling local produce, fish (fresh, smoked and salted), meats, live chicken, herbs, spices, oils, sauces, dried noodles, rice, cassava and plantain chips. We spent over an hour walking from table to table inspecting the exotic fruits, bunches of herbs and carefully stacked arrangements of vegetables before returning to buy groceries to prepare our own meals. 

For breakfasts, we ate Amazon fruits. For one dinner, we cooked Heri Heri, Suriname’s national dish. The dish is made with an assortment of boiled vegetables including cassava, white sweet potato, potato, yellow plantain and green plantain served with fried salted cod, yardlong beans and a hard boiled egg. 

Exotic Vegetables

• Yardlong Beans.  Very long thin strands of green bumpy beans. 

• Antroewa.  A small round and green eggplant.

• Sopropo.  A bitter melon that has to be cooked. It looks like a bumpy cucumber. 

• White Sweet Potatoes.  Small potatoes with a brown skin, white interior and sweet savory flavor. 

• Kaisoi.  A large leafy green similar to spinach. 

Exotic Fruits

• Pommerak.  A tasty deep pink pear shaped fruit with sweet and starchy flavor.

• Rose Apple.  A tiny pinkish red pear shaped fruit that tastes slightly sweet and floral.

• Star Apple.  A fruit similar in flavor to a lychee with the exterior of a passion fruit.

• Pomelo.  A giant grapefruit with a light and refreshing flavor.

Other more commonly known vegetables and fruits sold at the market are plantains, okra, turmeric, cassava, squash, oranges and watermelon.

Desserts 

• Boyo.  A semi sweet cake with a gelatinous spongy texture made from cassava and coconut. 

• Fiadu.  A sweet cake made with raisins, currants, almonds and citrus. 

Drinks

• Parbo Bier.  A classic Pilsner brewed in Paramaribo. 

• Parbo Bier Chiller Lime.  A refreshing local beer with flavors of lime and passion fruit.

Fruit Stands.  There are colorful and fragrant fruit stands around the outer roads of Paramaribo. We stopped at one for a fresh coconut, mango and pineapple for breakfast. 

Waka Pasi.  An outdoor market along the canal behind the Palmentuin with cocktail bars, cafes, ice cream shops, souvenir stands, a tourist desk and vendors selling fried foods.

Places to Eat & Drink 

Raja Ji.  An Indian restaurant with a wide range of vegetarian dishes cooked in savory sauces and warm spices. 

Souposo.  A cafe with Surinamese soups. Try the Peanut Soup made from peanuts, plantain, spices and smoked fish. Or try the Saoto Soup, a savory vegetable soup with greens, spices, bean sprouts and ramen noodles.

Tangelo.  A cafe with strong coffee, artisan pastries, fruit forward breakfast dishes and savory bites with Indian spices. Try the Aloo Gobhi Pita with spiced cauliflower, potato and chickpeas. 

Sweetie Coffee Suriname.  A cafe at the Waka Pasi market with shaded seating, coffee, water, beers and homemade cakes.

Coffee Mama.  A cafe in a Dutch colonial house with a cozy backyard. Come here for the coffee, Surinamese, Caribbean and Brazilian snacks, breakfast and lunch dishes. 

The Surinamese Amazon

With its lush jungles, flowing rivers and immense biodiversity, Suriname resides firmly in the Amazon Basin with over 90% of its landmass covered by rainforest. We traveled into this region and spent 4 days at the Anaula Nature Reserve.

Anaula Nature Reserve 

Anaula is an eco-resort on an island in the Suriname River with jungle bungalows, nature trails, natural river pools, cultural activities and prepared local dishes. We spent our time relaxing in nature, exploring the Amazon and experiencing the local culture through tours and cuisine. 

Day One, The Journey

Day one was all about the journey and exploring the eco resort. From Paramaribo, we took a 4 hour bus ride towards the interior of the country until reaching the port of Atjoni on the Suriname River. At this point, the only method of transportation further into the country is by motorized dugout canoe.

As we waited for our captain, guides tossed our bags onto a canoe ferrying everything from luggage, bulk groceries, small appliances, large propane tanks and corrugated metal. Once on the river, we glided through the brown water and looked upon the lush tree lined banks, passing several Maroon villages, locals swimming in natural river pools and washing clothes. The captain skillfully weaved the long canoe past rocks, sand bars and oncoming boats. 

Towards the end of the journey, we passed through The Jaw Jaw Rapids, a notoriously turbulent section of the river. The captain sped the boat up the rapids through a narrow passageway where we hit and bounced off a rock but were redirected by several men waiting to steer us back on course. Once successfully passing through, the others re-boarded the boat and we continued the journey, docking at Anaula after a total 1 hour and 15 min canoe ride. 

Arrival at Anaula 

The resort has beautiful wooden bungalows and open air amenities like a dining hall where meals are served, a lobby with wooden lounge furniture, a relaxing outdoor pool and river overlooks with hammocks. 

The beautiful property is built on an island, surrounded by lush Amazonian trees and views of the rapids. We used down time to wade in the surprisingly warm shallow river pools, bird watch and stargaze upon the Milky Way. In the middle of the night a strong rainstorm provided white noise as we drifted asleep. 

Day Two, Exploring Nature

Waking up in the Amazon

The noises of the rainforest, birds chirping, frogs croaking and cicadas humming all around our bungalow provided a fitting wake up call for our second day in the Amazon. At breakfast, our guide found a tarantula in the palm trees and placed it on us. The furry spider slowly crawled on our arms, applying subtle pressure as its tiny feet climbed.  

Hiking the Amazon

We began our hike along the perimeter trail of the island, walking through dense primary forest with hundred year old trees and newly grown foliage. Along the way, our guide taught us Amazon survival skills including how to call for help if lost, how to recognize snake warning signs and how to learn from the monkeys to know what's safe to eat.

Among the sounds of the rainforest, we heard some squeaks in the canopy and spotted a group of curious capuchin monkeys. Knowing we may have had food, the cute monkeys paid us a visit. We fed them pieces of banana which they quickly snatched from our hands while some even jumped onto our shoulders, wrapping their furry tails around our arms. 

Nighttime Caiman Tour 

As night fell, we took a canoe tour downriver to spot caiman under the stars. We shined a bright light towards the river bank, looking for the reflection of the caiman’s eyes. After several minutes, we caught an amber glow reflecting back. Our guide approached the small caiman and snatched it out of the water for everyone to see up close. After releasing it, we canoed further down river spotting one more, twice as large as the first, before returning to Anaula. 

Day Three, Culture & Relaxation

The Village Walk 

We visited the Village of Ladoani further up the Suriname River. The village is home to the Saamaka, 1 of the 6 Maroon people in the country. The Maroon people are the descendants of enslaved Africans brought to Suriname who have lived upriver for generations. Traveling by canoe, on foot and then by canoe again, we reached the village of nearly 3,000 people. 

During our guided village walk, we learned about the village, its people, culture, language and history. The village is comprised of wooden plank houses with tin roofs and dirt pathways, a hospital, school, church and at least two mini marts. Trees producing papaya, coconut, banana, star apple, mango, cashew and breadfruit flourish here while gardens with okra and cassava grow outside of peoples’ homes.

It’s quiet during the day. The men have left to harvest crops, hunt within the jungle and fish further up river. The elders, women, children and young men remain with jobs of their own. Women harvest leaves for bathing, grind cassava to bake bread, wash laundry in the river and roast palm seeds to produce oil. Children play together, learn at school, empty rainwater from canoes and show off their pet parrots while younger men mix concrete to build foundations for new homes.

Relaxation Mode 

After returning for lunch, we spent the remainder of the afternoon napping in hammocks by the river, watching canoes navigate upstream, listening to the flow of the rapids, hum of cicadas and chirping birds. Towards the late afternoon, we migrated to the pool for a snack and a local beer.

Saamaka Performance

After dinner on our final night, we were treated to a cultural dance performance by drummers and dancers from the Ladoani Village. They performed several songs and dances that originated during the plantation era when enslaved Africans would use the performances to distract their oppressors while others escaped. Since then, the Saamaka have continued these performances but for reasons of joy and happiness. 

Day Four, Relaxation & Return to Paramaribo

The Last Morning At Anaula 

We woke up early to listen to the birds as the sun rose followed by a nature walk where we spotted the same family of monkeys from day two. They were feasting on the fruit and nuts of a palm tree near the river. In the early afternoon, we began our scenic and exciting boat ride back to Atjoni where we boarded the bus returning to Paramaribo. 

The Cuisine at Anaula 

Over the four days at Anaula, we got to taste many Surinamese dishes cooked by the Maroon people as well as dishes brought to Suriname by its culturally diverse population of Indians, Indonesians and Dutch. The kitchen prepared 3 buffet meals a day, a mid afternoon snack and accommodated our pescatarian preference. 

Fresh Fruit. Pomelo, watermelon, papaya and banana.

Poffertjes. Tiny Dutch pancakes.

Roti. Flat bread served with masala eggs, curried potatoes, pureed squash, sautéed eggplant and rice.

Pakabana. Sliced, battered and fried plantains.

Witi Fis. Fried white fish.

Salt Fish.  Salted and shredded cod. 

Menu Vada.  A savory donut made with warm spices.

Nasi. A mixed rice dish, influenced by Indonesian and Chinese cuisine. It can be served with vegetables or meats.

Surinamese Vegetables and Greens: 

• Sautéed antroewa (white eggplant) and sopropo (bitter melon).

• Steamed yardlong beans.

• Boiled white sweet potatoes ans cassava.

• Blanched Kaisoi (a type of spinach).

• Okra Soup, cooked with okra and greens.

Where to Stay

In Paramaribo, we stayed in a private room at the Twenty4 Hostel. The hostel has communal areas like a reception, kitchen and back patio. They offer simple breakfasts, luggage storage, taxi services and can arrange tours across the country. 

Location Specifics

Language. Dutch, English, Sranan Tongo and several Maroon languages are commonly spoken.

Currency.‍ ‍The Suriname Dollar is the local currency. Cash is frequently preferred over credit cards. 

Credit Cards. Visa is not accepted anywhere. Mastercard is accepted. There is typically a 5% credit card fee.

Tipping. 10% is customary.

Drinking Water. Tap water is not safe for consumption unless rapidly boiled for at least one minute. Avoid ice as it’s often frozen tap water. 

Climate. Paramaribo is hot and dry during September to October. Make sure to drink plenty of water. 

Insects. When in the interior of the country, wear long socks and insect repellant to avoid bites, especially at night time or after the rain. 

Driving.  People drive on the left side of the road. Cars have their steering wheels on the right side of the car. Speed limits and distance are in KM. 

LGBTQ+ Safety. Though there are some restrictions on LGBTQ+ rights, October is the unofficial Pride month. We saw rainbow and progress flags at embassies, large hotels and WHO buildings. 

Visas.  We needed to apply for an E-Visa a minimum of 72 hours before visiting Suriname and pay a $59 fee. 

Getting Around

Airport Taxi.  The airport is located a little over an hour from Paramaribo. Taxis typically cost $50 one way.

On Foot. The city center near most sights is easily walkable. 

For Next Time… 

One thing we learned in Suriname is that 9 days is hardly enough time. Next time we return, we hope to see more of the interior, coast and even the neighboring countries of Guyana and French Guiana.

Raleighvallen.  A scenic and long cascading waterfall deep in the interior. 

Voltzberg Dome.  A 240 meter granite dome in the middle of the interior. From what we read, it takes two days to reach but has incredible views overlooking the jungle. 

Panama City Travel Guide: Casco Viejo, Local Food & Tropical Nature

Panama

Panama is a Central American country at the crossroads of North and South America. It’s home to Caribbean beaches, Pacific marine reserves, lush rain forests, an urban metropolis, the Panama Canal and a diversity of cultural backgrounds.

Panama City

Panama City is a sprawling city on the Pacific side of the country with towering skyscrapers, colonial architecture and historic ruins. It’s a starting point to reach many of the country’s nature reserves and a hub for other destinations across Central and South America. 

Casco Viejo 

Panama City’s old town is a beautiful colonial era neighborhood built on a peninsula overlooking the Panama Bay with walled sections, seafood restaurants, rooftop bars, clothing shops, lush plazas, free museums, beautiful cathedrals and cultural sights. 

Elegant Architecture 

Walking down the narrow brick streets, with the rails of old street cars still visible, feels like stepping through a time capsule. The neighborhood's elegant buildings feature ornate facades painted in muted neutrals and pops of color, thin balconies decorated with tropical plants, warmly lit antique lanterns and clay-tiled roofs. While some buildings have been beautifully preserved, others sit in contrast as ruins slowly overtaken by nature.

See the Sights 

Plaza Herrera.  A romantic and scenic plaza surrounded by elegant architecture, luxury hotels, boutiques and restaurants. 

Plaza de la Catedral.  A brick paved plaza in the center of Casco Viejo with a gazebo, trees and park benches. It’s flanked by the La Catedral de Panama, colonial architecture and museums. Artists often come here in the early morning with sketchbooks to draw the sights around the plaza. 

La Catedral de Panama.  The city’s main cathedral built with an ornate stone facade, large wooden door and two white bell towers. 

Cintra Costera.  A road and walkway several miles along the coast from the modern financial center to the old town of Casco Viejo with city views.

Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús.  The stone and brick ruins of a former church. All that remains is the crumbling facade, walls and interior courtyard.

Convento de Santo Domingo.  The crumbling brick ruins of a historic convent and church with an adjacent chapel housing a museum of religious artifacts. 

Iglesia Nuestra Señora de La Merced.  A stone facade cathedral with two simplistic white bell and clocktowers. We passed by here when the bells were in full swing letting out dongs heard across the old town. 

Paseo de las Bovedas.  A scenic waterfront walkway along the colonial wall in Casco Viejo. There is a monument dedicated to the history of Panama, views of the modern city and a floral covered walkway with vendors selling handicrafts and souvenirs. 

Corridor La Quince.  An arts district outside of Casco Viejo with graffiti and murals covering the buildings & string lights draping the streets. Many of the colonial buildings are in disrepair while others have been renovated to modern standards. 

Plaza Carlos V.  A small garden plaza overlooking the Panama Bay dedicated to one of the first Spanish rulers of Panama credited with the idea of creating the Panama Canal long before its eventual construction. Guna women often sell their Molas and other handcrafted products from here.

Plaza Medio Baluarte.  A small but photogenic plaza with colorful colonial buildings, a central fountain and an overlook along the wall. We watched as artists painted the city scenery early one morning. 

Plaza Simón Bolívar.  A plaza with a large monument dedicated to Simón Bolívar, the leader who led several Central and South American countries to independence from Spain. The plaza is flanked by a cathedral and restaurants.

Amador Causeway.  A palm lined road and walkway connecting three islands near the mouth of the Panama Canal. Come here to walk the scenic 3km road, watch ships waiting to enter the Panama Canal and admire views of the city skyline. Along the road are bike rentals, restrooms, overlooks and historical placards. Towards the islands are numerous restaurants, hotels, a marina and cruise terminal. 

Miraflores Visitor Center.  A lock system and lookout on the Panama Canal. Come watch ships pass through, learn about the canal’s history and watch a movie about it narrated by Morgan Freeman. 

• Good to Know. Plan your visit around when ships pass through the locks. We hadn't realized ships pass through at infrequent times, and the next one wasn't for over 3 hours.

• Getting Here. The visitor center is reachable by bus from Albrook Station or taxi. It can take a little over an hour to reach from Casco Viejo by bus or 20min by car.

Visit the Museums 

Panama Viejo.  An archeological park with the crumbling brick and stone ruins of the original colonial Panama City. The city had many houses, multiple churches, roads, a grand plaza, market, cistern, bridge and tall bell tower. It was left to ruin after a major earthquake, multiple fires and pirate attacks. Come here to climb the 116 step tower with lookouts over the ruins, modern day skyline and Pacific Ocean. The view offers a unique contrast to the bustling city surrounding it.

Museo de la Mola.  A museum dedicated to the colorful and intricately patterned textiles made by Panama’s indigenous Guna Women. The well curated exhibit explains the cultural importance of the women and their textiles, how they’re handcrafted and the stories behind them. It also features an interactive sound and light exhibit, an origami station and a magnetic wall to add to the museum’s Mola. The museum is free to enter. 

Museo de la Historia.  A small history museum in Casco Viejo about the founding of Panama and its independence from Spain and Colombia, the diverse cultures that make up Panama and the history of the Panama Canal. Come to see one of Panama’s first ever flags, a constitutional manuscript, and the national anthem. It’s free to enter. 

Mi Pueblito.  An open air museum set up like small towns with reproductions of colonial buildings and a nature trail with reproductions of thatched structures from Panama’s indigenous tribes. When we visited, there were many food vendors set up selling local dishes and snacks. 

Explore the Parks

Parque Natural Metropolitano.  A tropical nature park with hiking trails and scenic overlooks of Panama City’s skyline. Come here to spot monkeys, sloths, agoutis and humming birds. We spent over 3 hours walking the trails and spotting wildlife through our binoculars. 

Trails  

• El Roble. A 0.7km trail and road leading from the visitor center to the Mono Titi trail 

• Camino de Mono Titi.  A 1.2km trail through the forest ending with views of Panama City’s skyline. 

• La Cienaguita.  A 1.1km trail through the lush forest leading from end of the Mono Titi trail back to the El Roble trail.  

• Los Caobos.  A 0.8km trail branching off of the El Roble trail and ending at the Visitor Center. This trail passes through dense forest where we spotted monkeys, a sloth and agouti. 

• Getting Here. The park is reachable by bus one stop on the bus from Albrook Station. It can take a little over an hour to reach from Casco Viejo.

Cerro Ancon.  A paved nature trail leading from Mi Pueblito to the city’s tallest natural point. Come here to overlook Casco Viejo, the city’s modern skyscrapers and ships passing through the Panama Canal. 

Soberania National Park.  A large national park in the center of the country located along the Panama Canal. We came here hoping to hike, spot wildlife and watch ships on the Canal. 

Unfortunately after hours of trying to reach certain sights in the park via bus, on foot and Uber, we learned many of the park’s activities are run by private resorts with high ticket prices, require advance reservation or are inaccessible. Tired and a little defeated, we decided to return to Panama City and make the most of our day. 

Shop the Markets 

Mercado San Felipe Neri.  A food market with butchers selling locally farmed meats and vendors selling locally grown produce, fruits, eggs, grains, herbs, oils and juices. We shopped for a week’s worth of groceries to cook with at our Airbnb. 

Mercado de Mariscos.  A seafood market with vendor selling piles of whole fish on ice, trays of shrimp, live crab and lobster, queen conch and mixed seafood. We bought a 2 lb Corvina, Panama’s favorite fish, and fried it using traditional methods. Opposite the market is a second building with restaurants and vendors cooking up the day’s fresh catch. Here we ordered Caribbean shrimp, coconut rice and local beers from Restaurante Allison.

Avienda Central.  A pedestrian street stretching from Cinco de Mayo station to Casco Viejo  with commercial shops, grocery stores, restaurants, cafes and street vendors selling produce, especially plantains stacked on tables and pineapples in the backs of trucks. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Casco Mar.  A restaurant along the seaside of Casco Viejo with a Spanish style tapas and paella menu. We sat outside listening to the waves and sounds of the city. To eat, we shared the plantains, passion fruit ceviche, white fish stuffed peppers, coconut flan and the most refreshing mojitos. 

El Santuario.  A very romantic and higher end restaurant built within the ruins of a former monastery. The interior is defined by its exposed stone walls, brick arches, high ceilings, terracotta tiled and patterned wood floors. The menu specializes in Panamanian and Spanish dishes. We shared a seafood paella with scallops, langoustine, mussels and calamari. To drink, we each ordered a glass of red sangria.  

Snack Shack.  A beautiful restaurant in Casco Viejo. We ordered a breakfast bowl of tropical fruits (mango, pineapple, banana and papaya) with a coconut cream sauce as well as a traditional breakfast with fried eggs, toast, potatoes and avocado. There is a Tiki Bar in the garden area at the back of the restaurant. 

Café Unido Casco Viejo.  An old town coffee shop and cafe with Panama grown and roasted beans. 

Vista Corona Panama.  A tropical rooftop restaurant and bar with palm trees, tiki torches, house music, a bar built from a VW Beetle and views of the old town’s rooftops and spires. We came here to relax with a cocktail after a long day of hiking and busing. Try the rum cocktails like an Old Cuban and Tobaga.

Tantalo Rooftop Bar.  A rooftop bar in Casco Viejo with cocktails and local beers. We came here for sunset drinks overlooking the city’s terracotta roofs, cathedral towers and modern skyscrapers across the bay. Fittingly, we ordered a drink called, Noche en el Casco (Night in the Old Town). 

Pedro Mandinga Rum Bar.  A warmly lit rum bar with a wooden interior and old world charm. The bar features rums from countries across the Caribbean and Central America including Panama and their own distillations. Try a glass neat, order a flight of rums or sip on a classic cocktail.

VIP.  A boutique and juice bar connected to Monos con Arte. Order a fresh Pepa Fria (cold coconut) to enjoy while walking around the old town. 

Places to Shop 

Casco Viejo is a very fashionable place with well dressed locals and tourists, boutiques and clothing shops selling Panama hats, linen clothes, colorful outfits and items made with tropical patterns and natural materials. 

Boho Shack.  A resort style street wear boutique with patterned shirts, shorts and pants. We bought a palm embroidered linen shirt! We’ve also visited their location in Cartagena where the brand is based. 

Bellezas de Panama.  A shop selling Panama hats, hand woven Molas and various souvenirs. We found this location to have the best selection and most affordable authentic Panama hats. The typical price is $40-$45 but the shop owner sold ours to us for $30. 

Mansion Herrera Clothing Shop.  A boutique clothing shop with elegant linen clothes and custom Panama Hats. 

Lu Maca Coffee Shop & Store.  A cafe and clothing store with tropical shirts, accessories and a small selection of Panama Hats. 

The San Blas Islands 

The San Blas Islands are a series of many low lying islands and shoals on the Caribbean side of the country. They are a tropical paradise for beach hopping, snorkeling and learning about the Guna Yala indigenous community.

The Guna Yala Indigenous People.  The region is an autonomous zone in Panama home to and managed by the Guna Yala. While here, it’s common to see islands covered in palm reed and thatched houses, women wearing traditional Molas and fishermen paddling between islands in dugout canoes. 

Touring the Islands.  We voyaged into the sea passing palm covered islands, looking back to see views of Panama’s mountains as the spray of the sea misted across our faces. 

Private Island.  After a scenic boat ride, we arrived at a beautiful private island covered in palm trees and surrounded by sandy shores with vibrant blue water and patches of seagrass. 

Sand Bar.  Two hours later, our guides brought us to a shallow sand bar with crystal clear water, star fish and a small coral reef to snorkel above.

Dog Island.  In the early afternoon, we arrived at an island with a sunken ship taken over by a thriving reef with all types of colorful corals and tropical fish. On shore, we were each served a whole fried corvina fish with patacones, fresh fruit and a local beer. 

Isla Diablo.  Towards the late afternoon, we visited one more island for beach time and tropical drinks before returning to Panama City. 

Getting Here.  We booked a tour with Panama San Blas Tours through Viator. Our guide picked us up at 5:15am and drove us 3 hours across the country through verdant forest and hilly terrain to reach the Caribbean coast and San Blas Islands. The last 30min of the drive were nauseating and extremely curvy with steep hills. Overall, the full day tour was incredibly memorable, very relaxing and well organized. 

Taboga Island

The City of Taboga.  Taboga is a colorful town built into the lush hillside of the island with laidback vibes, beaches and hiking trails. Here, locals drive around on golf carts and say hola (hello) or buenas (short for good day) as they pass by. The narrow streets and alleyways are lined with flowering trees and bushes with many light boxes housing statues of the Virgin Mary.

Playa La Restinga.  A clean sandy beach that bridges Taboga and Morro Islands with views of the ship dotted harbor and Panama City skyline in the distance. The shore is covered in pink and white sea shells seen as decor on houses across the island. There are vendors selling beachwear, serving piña coladas in pineapples, preparing fried seafood and renting umbrellas, lounges and boats.

Sendero de Tres Cruces.  Following the winding walkways up the hillside, we reached the trail head. The trail leads deep into nature so much so that you forget that a sprawling metropolis is still nearby. As we hiked through the humid forest, we heard the sounds of breaking of branches, the falling of fruit, buzzing insects and squawking birds. Along the way, we spotted tarantulas, numerous neon green and black poison tree frogs, large iridescent blue butterflies, skittish lizards and spiraling vortexes of vultures. 

Cerro El Vigía.  Sendero de Tres Cruces leads to an uphill but easy to walk road to the island’s summit, Cerro El Vigía. From the summit, the town of Taboga is dwarfed by the panoramic views of the lush island, hundreds of ships anchored in the bay and city beyond.

Getting Here.  Visiting Taboga is an easy day trip from Panama City. We took the Taboga Express Ferry from the Amador Causeway. Along the 30min boat ride, the ferry passes dozens of anchored freighters and ships from all over the world waiting to enter the Panama Canal. 

Panamanian Cuisine

Ceviche.  White fish cured in lime juice with peppers, red onion and cilantro. It’s one of the most popular dishes seen at restaurants across Panama. 

Corvina.  A white fish popular in Panama. It’s often grilled or fried whole. 

Paella.  A pan rice dish cooked in a pan with broth, spices, veggies, and meat. It’s also called One Pot on the Caribbean side of the country. 

Patacones.  Twice fried and smashed plantain.

Rice & Beans.  The classic Central American dish made from the two ingredients with spices. 

Hojaldra.  Fried dough often served at breakfast.

National Beers 

Balboa.  A semi nutty beer similar to a Modelo. 

Panamá.  A light beer similar to a Bud Light. 

San Felipe.  A pretty standard and easy drinking lager. 

Where to Stay 

La Manzana.  A large mixed use building with modern apartment rentals, artist studios and a co-working space. It’s a quick 10 minute walk through the arts district to Casco Viejo. We stayed in a well equipped and well designed studio here during our time in Panama City. Book here on Airbnb.

Getting Around

By Metro.  Panama City has a very modern and efficient metro system with two lines crossing town. We took the metro from the airport to just outside of Casco Viejo neighborhood. 

By MetroBus.  Buses are the most economical way to navigate Panama City, though inefficient. Expect to wait a minimum of 30 to 45 minutes for most lines. 

Albrook Station.  Panama’s Central Terminal for the metro and buses. City buses from here are generally efficient and affordable. There are routes from here to destinations across Panama. 

Tarjeta Recargable Para Metro y Metrobus.  Buy a re-loadable card at any metro station for $2. Fares cost around $0.25 to $0.50 for both metro and metrobus. 

Yellow Cabs.  Taxis are all over the city. Drivers looking for fares will often tap their horn looking for passengers as they drive around the city. 

Uber.  A secure alternative to taxis. Fares cost $1-$10 to get around the city depending on distance and time of day or $20-$30 to/from the airport. 

On Foot. Casco Viejo is very walkable. Any further distances will require public transit or an Uber. 

Panama Stop Over 

We booked our flights with Copa Airlines taking advantage of their stop over program when transiting through Panama City. The airline paid for our flight to Panama City en route to our final destination. Stopovers can last anywhere from a minimum of 24 hours to a maximum of 7 days. We stayed the full 7 days. This saved us hundreds of dollars on flights and allowed us to visit a country that’s been on our list for years! 

Location Specifics

Currency.  Panama uses the Panama Balboa and US dollar interchangeably. They are valued equally.

Toilets.  Like many places in Central and South America, the plumbing can’t handle toilet paper. If there is a bin next to a toilet, that’s where it’s intended to go.

Language.  Spanish and English are widely spoken by most people, restaurant menus and most museums have descriptions in both languages. 

Ticket Prices. The costs for foreign tourists at most sights and museums are about 20-30% higher.

Tipping. 10-15% is standard for tipping.

Safety. We found Panama to be a very safe country. People are friendly and helpful. There is a strong tourist police and military presence throughout Casco Viejo, likely due to the location of the president’s residence.

Tourism. We did not come across a single American tourist. Many people visiting came from across Panama and other countries in South America. 

LGBTQ+ Safety. Panama is a very welcoming country to the LGBTQ+ community. We saw many other gay couples, travelers and tour operators. 

For Next Time…

We loved our time in Panama and with Copa Airline’s Stopover Program, we will certainly be returning. When we do, we hope to visit more areas along the Pacific and Caribbean coasts. 

Coiba National Park.  A bio reserve with beaches, reefs and rainforest. Come to hike the rainforest, snorkel with marine life, swim with whale sharks, surf pacific waves, spot tropical birds, monkeys and sloths. 

Bocas del Toro Archipelago.  A chain of 300 plus Caribbean islands with beaches, coral reefs and surfing spots. It’s a hub for Afro-Caribbean cultures with calypso, reggae and soca music and cuisine made from seafood cooked in coconuts and seasoned with spices. Popular islands to visit are Colon, the Bastimentos and Carenero.

Key West Travel Guide: Beaches, Bars & Island Life

Key West, Florida Keys

Key West is a tropical island at the end of the Florida Keys where roosters roam free, flip flops are worn as dress shoes and beach vibes rule above all else. The key is home to many restaurants, bars, boutique hotels, historic sights, colorful wooden houses and waters dotted with sailboats. 

The Overseas Highway

The Overseas Highway is a scenic stretch of road crossing the ocean and connecting the Florida Keys with mainland Florida. We made a day trip of our drive on the highway, stopping at multiple keys along the way.

Tiki Bar at Postcard Inn.  A hotel bar on Islamorada credited with inventing the Rum Runner cocktail. We stopped for a drink to find the restaurant under renovation. 

Robbie’s.  We ordered a Rum Runner here and stopped to hand feed the tarpon swimming around the restaurant’s dock. For $5, we bought a bucket of fish and dangled them over the edge of the dock. Soon after, a tarpon jumped from the water snatching the fish directly from our hands. 

Keys Fisheries.  A restaurant on Islamorada with all manner of fresh caught seafood. We stopped here for their famous lobster ruebens. 

Sea Turtle Hospital.  A sanctuary to rehabilitate rescued sea turtles on Marathon Key. Tour the facility and its tanks of sea turtles. I visited here on a trip to the keys years ago.

7 Mile Bridge.  A stretch of the overseas highway crossing 7 miles of open ocean. Stop at the 7 Mile Bridge Vista to walk onto the pedestrian bridge and overlook and the blue tropical seas. We spotted manatees swimming here. 

Bahia Honda State Park.  We stopped here for some afternoon sun and beach time. We lounged in the shallow waters of Loggerhead and Sandspur beaches.

Big Pine Key.  One of the last keys before reaching Key West. We kept an eye out for the Key Deer, an endangered species of tiny deer native to the island. 

The Conch Republic 

Key West, also called The Conch Republic, is truly an island paradise! While here, eat fried conch fritters and conch ceviche from one of the island’s many restaurants, buy a conch shell from a souvenir shop and spot Conch Republic flags flying from locals’ homes. 

See the Sights

Duval Street.  A famed and historic street stretching a mile across the key with seafood restaurants, cocktail bars, Cuban cafes, art galleries and souvenir shops. The north end is the most touristy while the south end is quieter and more local. 

The Old Town.  A historic area with colorful wooden houses located at the north end of Duval street. 

Southernmost Point Buoy.  A striped concrete buoy and monument marking the southernmost point in the continental US only 90 miles from Cuba. 

Bahamas Village.  A neighborhood on the south side of the key settled by immigrants from the Bahamas. Come to see the colorful houses and tropical gardens. 

The Hemingway Museum.  The former residence of American writer Ernest Hemingway. Tour his home and writing studio where he wrote many of his iconic novels and short stories. Walk through the grounds’ lush gardens and pet Hemingway’s cats. 

Key West Lighthouse.  A short white lighthouse with a spiral staircase leading to the crown with panoramic views of the key. The light house keeper’s house is a small museum dedicated to the history of Key West.

Fort Zachary Taylor Beach.  A park with a coral beach, short nature trails and a civil war era fort. Come here to swim and sunbathe, walk the nature trails and explore the cannon lined red brick and black cement fortress. The beach has a snack & beverage hut renting umbrellas & lounges. Wear beach shoes to avoid the jagged coral lining the beach. Along the shore is a shaded park with picnic tables and grills. 

Higgs Beach.  A small but sandy beach between two piers for snorkeling, swimming and sunbathing.

Mallory Square.  No night in Key West would be complete without joining hundreds of people and watching the sunset from Mallory Square during the daily sunset festival. Arrive early with a drink in hand as the day ends and the night begins. 

Truman Waterfront Farmers Market. A Thursday afternoon market with vendors selling boozy popsicles, empanadas, samosas, honey, breads, cheeses, vegetables and tropical fruits like dragon fruit, pineapple, papaya, star fruit and lychee.

Places to Eat and Drink

Key West is where “it’s 5 o’clock somewhere” and “island time” meet.  There are many restaurants with laid back vibes and bars serving tropical cocktails. 

Tiki Bar.  A cocktail bar with classic tiki drinks like the Mai Tai, Jungle Bird, Zombie and Hurricane. There is live music nightly, a shop selling tiki mugs and a hidden tiki bar in the back.

Eaton Street Seafood Market.  A seafood market and restaurant serving the day’s fresh catch. We came for conch ceviche, stone crab claws and beers from Islamorada Brewing. 

Schooner Wharf Bar.  Come here for the shrimp! They source their shrimp from Key West’s last shrimping boat docked in front of the restaurant. We devoured the coconut shrimp and drunken shrimp, a peel and eat shrimp boiled in beer and spices! 

Speakeasy Inn and Rum Bar.  An inn with several rooms and a rum bar with one of the largest collections of rum in the US. Sip rum neat at the bar while chatting with locals and other vacationers or sit on their porch overlooking Duval Street while enjoying a Painkiller. 

Hemingway Social Club.  A cocktail bar attached to the Hemingway Rum Distillery. Come here for cocktails like a Hemingway Daiquiri made with their house rum while listening to the live music.

Cafelito.  A cafe with a walk up window selling iced Cuban coffees and Cuban pastries like the guava and cheese turnover.

Sally Frog’s.  A bar near Malloy Square with cocktails and local beers like the Crazy Lady Honey Blonde Ale brewed at The Waterfront Brewery.

Cuban Coffee Queen.  A small coffee shack by the harbor selling cups of Cuban coffee.

Cocomelon.  A juice bar and cafe selling ice cold fresh coconuts. Come here to sip coconut water from the tropical fruit while relaxing in their patio.

Kermit’s Key Lime Shop.  Come for the key lime pie! They sell it by the slice, whole and frozen on a stick. 

Dry Tortugas National Park

Sixty miles from Key West are the Dry Tortugas, a national park with several low lying islands, protected marine and avian reserves, a massive civil war fortress, a lighthouse and a campground. 

Fort Jefferson.  A hexagonal three level civil war fort rising from the sea. The historic red brick fort is surrounded by a moat with a large interior courtyard and the ruins of many military structures. 

We spent time exploring the 3 levels of the fort. The ground level houses many of the fort’s supportive facilities like a bakery, cistern and the barracks. The second level was dedicated to the prisoners’ cells and the hospital. The third level is overgrown with trails leading along the wall past cannons and to the fort’s lighthouse. 

Outside of the fort is a moat and wall designed to protect the main fort from the sea. Walk along it to admire its historic outer walls, look out towards the sea and spot tropical fish. 

Beaches.  Outside of the fort, there are two coral beaches to swim at with warm and shallow water. The South Beach was the calmest and clearest for swimming and snorkeling. There is some sea grass and fragments of broken coral throughout the bay. The North Beach was a little choppier with less visibility for snorkeling. 

Snorkeling.  Along the wall of the South Beach, we spotted smaller tropical fish, some living coral, sea anemones, pink jellyfish and the carcass of a giant spiny lobster.  

Land Bridge.  Walk the tidal land bridge towards the avian reserve of Long Key. The shallow stretch of sand is covered in conch shells, sand dollars and broken coral. Come here to spot pelicans and sandpipers. 

Loggerhead Lighthouse.  A black and white lighthouse visible on the horizon from Fort Jefferson on Loggerhead Key, nearly two miles away.

Camping.  There’s something special about camping on a desert island in the middle of the sea! Camp overnight in a protected grove of trees and bushes. 

Yankee Freedom.  The main company ferrying between Key West and the Dry Tortugas. The ticket includes transit, a tour of the fort, snorkel equipment, breakfast, lunch and cocktails for purchase. 

Getting Here.  It takes 2 hours 30 min to reach the Dry Tortugas from Key West with 4 hours on the island. Book in August and September for $50 off an order of 2 tickets. Book here.

Where to Stay

We stayed at the Speakeasy Inn & Rum Bar. The boutique inn on the south end of Duval Street has two floors of newly renovated rooms and is stumbling distance away from their rum bar. Our stay included free parking, a welcome cocktail and discounted drinks! 

Getting Around 

Key West is very walkable, especially along the mile long stretch of Duval Street. Even so, there are many rentals offering bikes, scooters and golf carts. 

• Bikes $10 / day 

• Scooters $35 / day 

• Golf carts $100 / day 

The Conch Train.  A multi-car trolley that rides around the city passing most of the sights with a narrated guide. 

Location Specifics

Locals leave during the month of September to vacation elsewhere. As a result, some restaurants and bars are closed. However, as this is the slow season, many hotels offer deals making the island more affordable to visit.

For Next Time…

We loved our time visiting Key West! We hope to return for more rum cocktails, sunset views and the tropical atmosphere. Outside of Key West, we would love to spend a few nights exploring the other keys more.