Patagonia

Patagonia is an awe inspiring and remote corner of the world spanning southern Chile. Its rugged terrain is covered in snow capped peaks, glacial lagoons, turquoise waterfalls and fjords. It’s an adventurous destination to road trip through with scenic lookouts, cave systems and mountainous hikes.

Torres del Paine National Park

Torres del Paine is a national park centered around three vertical white granite peaks at the base of a turquoise mountain lagoon. The vast landscape is comprised of jagged mountains, snowy glaciers, glacial lakes and lagoons, winding rivers with misty waterfalls and wildlife. It’s one of the most popular national parks in Patagonia with campgrounds, multi day treks and breathtaking natural sights.

Sendero Mirador las Torres. A 16km roundtrip trail to the three iconic towers and glacial lagoon. It’s the most accessible hike in the national park and perfect for single day trekkers. Keeping a comfortable pace, we were able to hike from the welcome center to the lagoon in about 2 hours and 30 minutes.

Mirador las Torres Trailhead. The trailhead is reachable after a 1km hike from the welcome center across relatively flat terrain. The trail is well marked, with orange signs attached to red posts and two check points along the way, Refugio Chileno and Guardia Parques.

Refugio Chileno. From the trailhead, the route ascends and descends along the river for 3km before reaching Refugio Chileno. Along the way, we spotted condors circling above, blossoming flowers and bushes with El Calafate berries. Midway we stopped to admire the views at Paso de los Vientos, a panoramic lookout with sweeping views of the valley, forested mountainsides and snowcapped peaks. Refugio Chileno serves as many hikers “base camp” with a restaurant, small shop and campground of hillside tented platforms available for rent. We stopped here for a celebratory beer on the trek back.
Guardia Parques. For 3km after passing Refugio Chileno, the trail follows the river, crisscrossing it on wooden footbridges. After the third bridge, Puente Limit, the trail leads into a semi-hilly stretch of forest along the base of the mountains.

Guardia Parques. A clearing in the forest opens up to the second checkpoint, Guardia Parques. It’s here where the granite peaks of Torres del Paine only come back into view. It also marks the most rigorous point of the hike. From here, the final 1km of the trail leads over steep terrain, loose gravel and slippery boulders until coming upon the mirador! There is a ranger station and restroom at the Guardia Parque. The trail leads left to the mirador and right to continue further into the park.

Mirador las Torres. After hiking 8km, the reward was worth the Paine! The iconic view of the three white granite towers and turquoise lagoon came fully into view at the Mirador. We sat on the rocks, admired the inspiring landscape and watched as streams of water from the melting snow and ice ran down the cliff into the lagoon.

Getting Here. Drive to the Guardería Laguna Amarga to show your ticket and passport. The entrance is 1 1/2 hours from Puerto Natales and less than 10 minutes from Laguna Amarga. From here, drive 15 minutes to the Torres del Paine Welcome Center with a cafe, restrooms and shop. After passing through the welcome center, walk to the Torres de Paine Trail Head 1km away to begin the hike.

Things to Know

Tickets. Park tickets can be purchased 2 months in advance online with Pases Parques Nacionales. Tickets are valid for 3 or 7 days.
Hours. The park opens at 7am. Entry to the trail closes at 3pm and the mirador closes at 4pm. Begin hiking early to avoid the crowds.
Timing. We started the trek at 9am arriving to the lagoon at 11:30am. On the descent, the trail was packed with hundreds of hikers in line walking up the mountain.
Weather. Check the weather ahead of time and only hike on a clear day to maximize chances of seeing the granite towers in all their splendor.
Difficulty. It’s a long hike and difficult at times but not severely rigorous. We saw young children and met people over the age of 60 completing the hike.

Puerto Natales

Puerto Natales is a Patagonian port town. It’s central location makes it easy to explore the region from. The city is comprised of modern cabins, converted shipping container buildings, wood tiled homes and sheet metal houses. The main street, Manuel Bulnes, is home to restaurants, cafes, bakeries, bars, grocery stores, outdoor outfitters and tour companies.

Patagonian Road Trip

We road tripped between Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine National Park, stopping at scenic lookouts, glacial lagoons, waterfalls, caves and hiking trails.

Cueva del Milodon. A massive cave once inhabited by prehistoric humans and the Milodon, a now extinct giant ground sloth. A trail leads to the cave from the visitor center, setting the stage with informational signs explaining the geology and formation of it, insights on the humans that lived within it 14,000 years ago and the former megafauna of the area, including the Milodon, Sabertooth tigers and Patagonian Panthers. The mouth the cave is grand, measuring 200 meters deep, 80 wide and 30 tall. A trail leads into it past archeological dig sights, dangling stalactites and a panoramic overlook. The cave is located 30 minutes by car from Puerto Natales.

Mirador Grey. A series of roadside lookouts above Lago Grey, a greenish grey colored glacial lagoon surrounded by snowcapped mountains and lush hillsides. The miradors are located 1 hour from Cueva del Milodon.

Mirador Rio Serrano. A scenic lookout on the bluffs over the Rio Serrano Valley with views of the winding blue river and on a clear day, the mountain peaks of Torres del Paine. There is a small tourist town below with hostels, hotels and glamping sights. It’s often the entry point for most people staying outside of Torres del Paine National Park. The lookout is located 15 minutes from Mirador Grey.

Guarderia Grey. A welcome center and restaurant with access to Sendero Lago Grey, a trail leading to the Grey Lake. We took the trail to foot bridge across the Rio Pingo and to a peninsula with a black sand and pebble beach, far away views of the glacier and blue floating icebergs. Boat tours depart near the Hotel Lago Grey up to the leading edge of the Grey Glacier. The welcome center is located 30 minutes from Mirador Rio Serrano.

Salto Chico Falls. A turbulent and eclectic blue colored waterfall on the Rio Paine accessible by a wooden boardwalk from the parking lot. The boardwalk leads through the lush hillside along the volcanic stone banks of the river to reach the viewpoint. The trail takes less than 30 minutes round trip. There is a hotel, restaurant and spa here for people looking to stay the night in a natural and luxurious setting. The waterfall is located 30 minutes from Guarderia Grey.

Mirador Lago Pehoé. An incredibly beautiful roadside lookout over Lago Pehoé with scenic views of the dark blue colored lake surrounded by rugged mountains. From here, a trail leads to Mirador de Condor with panoramic views. In view of the Mirador is an island with hotels and hotels. The lookout is located less than 10 minutes from Salto Chico Falls.

Salto Grande Waterfall. A misty aquamarine waterfall contrasted against black volcanic cliffs in a channel between two glacial lakes. The waterfall viewpoint is a 15 minute walk from the parking lot past lush hillsides with green bushes, flowering plants and mountainous views. The trail continues a further 5km to Mirador Cuernos with a lookout over Nordenskjöld Lake. Beware of high winds that can each speed of 120kmh. The waterfall is located less than 15 minutes from Mirador de Condor.

Mirador Nordenskjöld Lake. A roadside lookout over a lagoon and lake with mountains on its opposite side. Between the mountains is a cascading glacier with blue ice and fresh snow. It was at this time that the rain started to subside. Soon afterwards, birds began flying around and guanaco started appearing on the tops of the hills, curiously looking around in all directions. The mirador is located 15 minutes from Salto Grande.

Cascada Rio Paine. A cascading and angled waterfall in the Rio Paine with views of the mountains. The roadside lookout is located 30 minutes from Mirador Nordenskjöld Lake.

Guardería Laguna Azul. A blue mountain lake surround by grassy fields home to the region’s largest population of Guanaco. Along its shores are narrow black sand and pebble beaches, hiking trails and a van campground. The lookout is located 15 minutes from Cascada Rio Paine.

Laguna Amarga. A milky blue lagoon with partial views of the Torres del Paine from outside of the national park. On the day of our roadtrip, clouds completely obscured the granite peaks however we saw an incredible view the following morning on our way to hike to their base. The lookout is located 30 minutes from Laguna Azul.

Mirador del Lago Sarmiento. A deep blue mountain lake surround by desert bushes and plants with views of the mountainous snow covered peaks in the distance. The lake is located on Ruta fin del Mundo 30 minutes from Laguna Amarga.

Mirador Lago Figueroa. A roadside lookout over a green lagoon at the base of tree and shrub covered hills. The lookout is located about 45 minutes from the lake and 30 minutes from Puerto Natales.

White Snow. In late December, super blooms of flowers emerge across the landscape. One of the most iconic is White Snow, a tiny white peddled flower with a yellow center that blooms by the millions, blanketing grass fields in a layer of white, imitating snow.

Driving in Patagonia

Driving in Patagonia was easy, granted we were driving during the warmer summer months with significantly more daylight than night. Regardless, there are different types of roads to be aware of when driving here.

Ruta fin del Mundo (End of the World Route). A vast highway leading through Patagonia to the southern tip of South America. Between Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine, the highway is well maintained with scenic lookouts and faster speeds than the asphalt and dirt back roads.

Asphalt Roads. The asphalt roads between Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine are the most dangerous due to clusters of deep pot holes. Drive slowly and be ready for evasive maneuvering.

Dirt Roads. The dirt roads within Torres del Paine and between here and Puerto Natales are easy to drive on and regularly smoothed. Other than little bumps and clouds of dust, we had no issues. Keep distance between cars to avoid windshield chips.

Pro Tip: When leaving Puerto Natales, depart with a full tank of gas. There are no gas stations outside of the city.

Car Rental

One of the best ways to see Patagonia is on your own. Though expensive, having a car saved us from booking any costly tours and allowed us the freedom to move at our own pace. When in Puerto Natales, we rented a car and spent two days exploring the Torres del Paine National Park. We booked with Magallanes Rent-A-Car. We requested to book 6 months before arriving and paid a 50% despot 1 month before and the remainder at pick up.

Chilean King Crab

Puerto Natales is famed in Chile for is seafood, specifically king crab. One of the best restaurants in town for king crab is Santolla. They serve entire king crabs and a range of dishes made from its meat. We savored 3 tapas style dishes: the crab legs cooked in a spicy white wine sauce, a king crab cake and scallops pil pil. To drink, a Patagonian gin & tonic and glass of Chilean Carmenere. The restaurant build from repurposed shipping containers, a nod to the port town’s shipping industry.

When to Visit

We visited Patagonia from mid to late December when the days are at their longest, lasting nearly 18 hours. The days are warm and the nights are chilly. The landscape was coming to life with green bushes, flowering shrubs and budding wild berries.

Good to Know

Exchanging USD. You need to have near perfect bills free of tears, markings or a tattered appearance when exchanging for pesos or paying.

Cash vs Card. Cash is king however many places do accept card. There is often a fee ranging up to 20% for using card. There is an occasional 10% discount for paying in cash.

ATM. Regardless of banks, cash machines will only allow foreigners to request 2,000 pesos per day (about $2 USD) with fees costing close to 15,000 pesos.

Tipping. Tipping 10% is customary. Tips are cash only.

Prices. The prices of tours, cost of accommodations and meals are very expensive in Patagonia.

Tickets Fees. Ticket fees and entrance tickets often cost up to 3 times more for foreigners.

Bookings. Tours and accommodations book up in advance. We booked everything 2 to 6 months ahead of time.

For Next Time…

Walk with Penguins. Nearby the Chilean Patagonian town of Puerto Arenas is a remote island home to colonies of penguins. We plan to tour the island and walk with them on our next trip to the region.

Tour the Fjords. Patagonias fjords are boat ride from the city’s port. When we return, we plan to tour them, their mountains, waterfalls and glaciers, including the Balmaceda and Serrano Glaciers.

Last Hope Distillery. Patagonian gin is one of our favorites styles of gin for its herbal and floral flavors. We missed our chance to visit the city’s only gin distillery. We hope to make it one our first stops next time.

Puma Tracking. We saw signs and warnings about the Puna everywhere. We were either lucky or unlucky not to spot one. When we return, we plan to hire a guide to bring us puma tracking in hopes of spotting one of the big cats.

Chilean Patagonia