Sousse, Tunisia
Sousse, Tunisia
Sousse is a historic port town along the Mediterranean shores of Tunisia. It’s a place where ancient times meets modern day. Tunisian culture and history thrive in the narrow alleys and bustling souks of the walled Medina. The nearby Islamic holy city of Kairouan and the ancient Roman city of El Jem transport visitors back even further in time. Sousse’s modern center, lively cafes and golden sand beaches offer places to relax and forget about time.
The Medina of Sousse
The Medina of Sousse is a densely packed old town dating back to the early 9th Century. Its stone walls encompass early Islamic architecture, defensive fortresses and centuries old mosques. Cobblestone alleyways weave between white painted buildings adorned with blue and yellow painted wooden doors. Archways lead into vaulted tunnels and lively souks.
Rue el Aghlaba. A central road in the Medina leading from the Great Mosque of Sousse to the Bab El-Finga. Its lined with stone and white painted buildings, historic minarets, small cafes and shops.
Driba Square. A stone paved plaza in a residential area of the Medina surrounded by ornate Tunisian buildings and blue painted doors.
Ave Soudan. A picturesque road along the southern wall of the Medina leading leading fromBab El-Kebli to the Kasbah Citadel. Walk the narrow alleyway inside the Medina and the outer road following the wall.
See the Sights
The Great Mosque of Sousse. A medieval mosque and one of the oldest sights in Sousse. It’s built as a fortress with a tall stone wall and minaret that doubles as a defensive tower. An arched corridor lines the interior courtyard. Minimal details and inscriptions from the Quran decorate its stone surfaces. Large wooden doors open to the prayer hall, only visible from the outside to non-Muslims.
Ribat of Sousse. A stone defensive fortress built in 821 CE to protect the ancient city of Sousse from invaders. The multilevel structure is shaped like a classic Middle Ages castle with a square design, round bastions and walls with toothed battlements. The interior courtyard is flanked by arched corridors and a series of rooms. A tower looms high above its base, offering views of the ancient Medina and Mediterranean Sea.
Walls of Sousse Medina. The Medina is surrounded by a towering stone wall, series of ramparts, arched gates and defensive fortresses. The well preserved wall dates back to the early 9th Century, enclosing and protecting the ancient city.
Les Remparts des Sousse. A hilly section of the north wall lined with a series of defensive watch towers. It’s best viewed from a narrow palm lined park on the outside of the wall during the mid or late afternoon.
Kasbah Citadel. A towering fortress on the northern hill of the Medina with tall stone walls, canons and a lighthouse. It can be viewed from outside the wall and from within the Sousse Archeological Museum. The kasbah itself is closed due to ongoing military activity.
Sousse Archeological Museum. A museum with the second largest collection of Roman era mosaics, primarily discovered in modern day Sousse. Given the port city’s location on the Mediterranean, many mosaics feature Roman sea gods, mythical sea creatures, marine animals, fishing scenes and ships. Other mosaics include scenes from everyday life including commonly eaten foods, horse races, comedy and hunting. Some are so detailed that they portray vivid facial expressions, shadows and patterns on clothes.
Shop the Souks
Sousse Medina Souk (Rue d’Angelterre). The Medina’s main souk leading from behind the Great Mosque of Sousse to the south gate, Bab El-Kebli. It’s lined with shops and vendors selling leather goods, woven rugs, olive wood kitchenware, colorful ceramics, perfumes, Tunisian sweets, street food, dates and spices.
Souk El-Caïd. A souk leading from the west gate Bab El-Gharbi to Rue d’Angelterre. The stepped street is lined with shops, restaurants, cafes and a tunneled section with jewelry shops.
Good to Know. Half of the shops and vendors stay closed on days when a cruise ship is not docked.
Pro Tip. Haggle and negotiate for the best price. Offer 20% of the first price, expecting to meet somewhere in the middle. Don’t be afraid to walk away.
Relax on the Beaches
Bou Jaafar Beach. A white sand beach with a seaside promenade. It’s the closest beach to the Medina yet sparsely visited. There are a couple spots to rent umbrellas and beach lounges.
Sousse Beach. A lengthy white sand beach in the Sousse’s hotel zone. It’s the city’s most popular beach with umbrella and beach lounge rentals, restaurants and cafes and marine activities.
Enjoy the Cafes
Café et Restaurant Kasbah. A cafe in the middle of the Medina along Souk El-Caïd. Come here for Turkish sand coffee made street side. Sit inside, surrounded by an eclectic mix of decor like patterned rugs and antique artifacts.
Dar Chatt Coffee Shop. A quiet beachfront cafe and restaurant near the city center. Come here to enjoy a coffee while overlooking the deep blue hues of the Mediterranean.
Visit The Holy City of Kairouan
Kairouan is an ancient city, regarded as the fourth most holy city in Islam. Its Islamic architecture and religious sights make it a place of pilgrimage for Muslims. It’s easily reachable on a day trip from Sousse.
The Medina of Kairouan
A pristine stone wall surrounds the ancient Medina of Kairouan. Inside are historic mosques and mausoleums, cobblestone alleyways and tunnels, souks selling handmade rugs and Tunisian pastries. Buildings are supported by stone columns repurposed from the ruins of Carthage. Blue and green painted doors accent white plastered walls and golden stone facades.
Ave Habib Bourguiba. A central road leading through the Medina between the Jalladin and Tunis Gates. It’s lined with storefronts and vendors selling Berber rugs, local pastries, tin tea sets, jewelry and clothes.
Jalladin Gate. One of several arched gates along the stone wall leading into the Medina. It leads to the bustling south side of Ave Habib Bourguiba.
Tunis Gate. An arched gate leading into the Medina. It’s flanked with marble columns from the ruins of Carthage. It leads to the north side of Ave Habib Bourguiba.
El Jadid Gate. A double arched gate with marble columns from Carthage. along the western corner of the Medina. It frames the minaret of the Zeitouna Mosque.
Place des Martyres. A plaza outside of the Jalladin Gate with views of the Medina’s stone wall and guard towers.
The Grand Mosque of Kairouan. One of the holiest places in Islam and one of the world’s oldest mosques. It dates back to 670 CE, just decades after the religion’s founding. It served as a model for all future mosques in the Maghreb (the western Arab world). Its inner courtyard can be visited while prayer hall is only visible to non-Muslims.
The Exterior. The mosque is reminiscent of the Medina’s wall with a golden stone facade, horseshoe shaped arches and minimal detailing. Its square stepped minarets feature a ribbed dome roof with a crescent moon and arched windows.
The Inner Courtyard. A large marble tiled courtyard flanked by arched corridors built with mismatched stone columns repurposed from the ruins of Carthage. The mosques two minarets stand opposite each other, announcing the Muslim call to prayer. Small sun dials are built into sections of the inner walls.
The Prayer Hall. Large wooden doors with ornate designs lead inside of the dimly lit prayer hall. Woven mats cover the floor where worshipers pray. Roman columns support stone arches and wooden beams. Conical chandeliers hang from the ceiling. The rear wall features geometric patterns and shapes of mosques in Islam’s four holy cities. Non Muslims cannot enter the prayer hall however it’s open for viewing.
Good to Know. Dress modestly, covering legs and shoulders. Women need to cover their hair with a hat or scarf. Coverings can be borrowed from the ticket desk.
Tapis Okba Terrace. A rooftop cafe with views of the Grand Mosque and Medina. It’s accessible through a Tunisian rug shop with no pressure to buy anything.
Mausolée Sidi Abid el Ghariani. An ornate mausoleum with the entombed remains of a 14th Century Islamic scholar. Its surfaces are embellished with hand illustrated tiles, elaborate plasterwork, intricately painted wooden panels and interlaced geometric stonework. The central courtyard features Ottoman and Moorish influences like tiles depicting Istanbul’s Blue Mosque and horseshoe shaped arches.
Good to Know. The ticket from the Grand Mosque includes access to the mausoleum.
Ouled Farhane Graveyard. An Islamic cemetery located outside of the walled Medina near the Grand Mosque. It’s comprised of white painted graves and simple headstones.
Mosque of the Three Doors. A small but historic stone mosque in the Medina named after its three domed doors. The stone work above is inscribed with Islamic inscriptions and decorative flourishes. The surrounding streets are lined with artisans weaving and selling Berber style wool rugs.
Bir Barrouta. A very unique cafe on the second floor of a stone building in the Medina. It’s built around a historic well operated by a camel drawn wheel that lifts buckets of water to the surface. The cafe makes coffees and teas using water from the well. Try the Turkish coffee.
Makroudh Barrak. A bakery in the middle of the Medina along Ave Habib Bourguiba with Tunisian pastries like its namesake, Makroudh. Makroudhis a deep fried date filled cookie made with semolina flower and covered in a honey glaze.
Visit the Ancient City of El Jem
El Jem is an ancient city with Roman colosseums, archeological ruins and intricate marble mosaics. It’s easily reachable on a day trip from Sousse.
Colosseum of El Jem. One of the best preserved colosseums outside of Rome and the third largest in the Roman Empire, capable of holding 35,000 spectators.
The Exterior. Three levels of golden limestone, stacked arches and Corinthian style columns wrap the ovular colosseum. The grand structure towers above the city, only rivaled by the minarets of modern day mosques.
The Interior. Arched corridors circulate through the colosseum while staircases step up to multiple levels to where bleachers one stood. Lower levels offer front row views of the arena and upper level provide a panorama of the entire colosseum. A restored marble section overlooks the arena.
The Arena & Dungeons. Passages lead to the arena where gladiators once fought and ancient performances took place. Stairs descend to underground tunnels and chambers with cells for prisoners, lions and chariots.
Pro Tip. The ticket to the colosseum of El Jem doubles as a ticket to the El Jem Archeological Museum and Thysdrus Archaeological Park.
Roman Theater of El Jem. The stone ruins of a smaller unmaintained colosseum. Crumbling stands and bleachers surround the ovular arena with piles of rubble. It’s sparsely visited and free to enter.
El Jem Archeological Museum. A museum with galleries of Roman mosaics from the ruins of El Jem.Walls are adorned with well preserved mosaics recovered from the floors of ancient villas. Tiny pieces of stone compose colorful images of Roman gods, musical instruments, African animals, hunting scenes, floral designs and geometric patterns. Some are so detailed that they look like handwoven tapestries. The museum also includes access to the Thysdrus Archaeological Park.
Thysdrus Archaeological Park. The ruins of several Roman estates, once common in the ancient city of Thysdrus. Walkways lead between partially restored foundations, walls and columns of the sprawling residences. Millenia old mosaics of various conditions span the floors. Many of which feature similar designs and patterns to those preserved inside the museum.
The House of Africa. A restored ancient residence from the 2nd Century with a column lined courtyard and a range of interior spaces. Rooms feature beautiful mosaic floors with illustrations of Roman gods and goddesses, African animals, geometric patterns and colorful marble tiles. Marble torsos from ancient statues and crowns of Corinthian columns line the corridors.
Tunisian Cuisine
Ojja (Tunisian Shakshouka). A savory tomato stew made with poached eggs, harissa and aromatic vegetables. It can be made vegetarian, with seafood or various meats.
Kafteji. A mix of fried vegetables like eggplants, zucchinis, tomatoes, bell pepper and potato. It’s usually stuffed inside or eaten with baguette.
Mechouia Salad. A salsa style Tunisian salad made with grilled vegetables like tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, garlic and onion. It’s garnished with tuna, olives, egg and parsley.
Brik. A deep fried bread roll stuffed with tuna, olives, eggs and harissa. It’s a common street food snack.
Fricassee. A deep fried crepe stuffed with egg, tuna, potatoes, olives and harissa. It’s a common street food snack.
Makroudh. Fried date filled cookies made with semolina flower. They’re covered in a honey glaze and garnished with sesame seeds.
Lablabi. A savory and spiced chickpea stew served on top of toasted garlic bread with olives and fresh parsley.
Chorba. A spiced vegetable and chickpea noodle soup.
Rouz Jerbi. A aromatic rice dish made with chickpeas, carrots spinach and a range of North African spices.
Where to Stay
Medina Airbnb. We stayed on the top floor of an apartment in the historic Medina of Sousse. It included a bedroom, large living room and well equipped kitchen. One of the highlights was the private rooftop terrace with views of the Medina, new city and sea. It’s located above a bakery near the south gate, Bab El-Kebli.
Getting Around
Getting to Sousse by Train. Take a regional train from Tunis’s main train station, Gare de Tunis, to Sousse. Check train schedules and book tickets in person a day in advance. First class tickets cost about 12 Dinar, second class tickets cost about 9 Dinar. Trains are often delayed by one to two hours. It’s probably quicker to take a Louage.
Getting to El Jem by Louage. El Jem can be visited in a half day from Sousse. Take a Louage from the Al Lawajat Station in Sousse. Buy tickets from a booth inside a large warehouse filled with the shared taxi vans. Look for the line that says El Jem or the man shouting “El Jem, El Jem.” Tickets cost about 7 Dinar per person. The ride takes less than an hour.
Getting to Kairouan by Louage. Kairouan can be visited in a half day from Sousse. Take a Louage from the Al Lawajat Station in Sousse. Buy tickets from a booth on the back side of a large warehouse filled with the shared taxi vans. Look for the line that says Kairouan. Tickets cost about 7 Dinar per person.
Louage (Shared Taxis). Louages are shared taxi vans with a red or yellow stripe down their sides. They’re used by locals to get between cities, towns and across the country. They’re often faster than trains and significantly cheaper than taxis. Tickets can be purchased at Louage stations in each town. Vans only leave when they’re full. Louages operate from 7am until 5-5:30pm at the very latest.
Language & Phrases
Arabic and French are commonly spoken throughout Tunisia. Some locals also speak English, Spanish and Italian. Download offline languages with Google Translate to help communicate.
English to Arabic:
Hello = Salem
Goodbye = Ma'a Salama
Thank you = Shukran
You’re Welcome = Marhaba
English to French:
Hello = Bonjour (daytime) Bonsoir (nighttime)
Goodbye = Au Revoir
Thank you = Merci
You’re Welcome = De Rien
Location Specifics
Cash vs Card. A vast majority of purchases are cash only. Credit card is rarely accepted. Withdraw Tunisian Dinar from local ATMs or convert foreign cash at the airport.
Affordability. Tunisia is a very budget friendly destination. Accommodations, transportation, dining out and sightseeing are easily inexpensive when traveling on a budget.
Medina Hours. The Medina slowly begins waking up around 7am. It’s fully bustling by mid morning and abruptly shuts down around 4pm.
Mosques. Most mosques are off limits to non Muslims. They can usually be viewed from the outside.
Staring. It’s part of the culture for men to stare. You’ll often be stared down as you walk past shops in the souks, sidewalk cafes and by people sitting in cars. It’s best to ignore it and not think anything of it.
Avoid School Children. Stay clear of groups of tween and teenage school children. They’ll surround you, shout at you, mock you and ask for money.
LGBTQ+ Safety & Dangers
Tunisia is not a safe destination for LGBTQ+ travelers. The government and a large percentage of the population have strong anti LGBTQ+ beliefs. Government polices criminalize LGBTQ+ people with punishments including fines, imprisonment, torture and deportation. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice.
Entrapment Schemes. Some locals that suspect you of being gay will try to entrap you and make you to admit it. Shortly after beginning a conversation, they will abruptly change topics and ask outright, “are you gay?” Irrefutably say no, look offended, end the conversation and leave as quickly as possible. This happened to us multiple times, in different locations including taxis, at markets and on the street.
Elsewhere in Tunisia
We spent a week exploring Tunisia, venturing beyond Sousse, El Jem and Kairouan to stay in the capital city of Tunis with day trips to the Mediterranean town of Sidi Bou Said and ancient capital of Carthage.
For Next Time…
If we ever return to Tunisia, we would love to have a “Star Wars” themed moment.
Stay in a Troglodyte Home. A circular dugout cave dwelling like the one lived in by Luke Skywalker’s aunt and uncle.
Mos Espa Film Set. Tour the film set used in the prequels where Anakin Skywalker grew up.
Visit Tatooine. An actual city in the south of the country that inspired the desert planet.
