Sousse, Tunisia

Sousse, Tunisia

Sousse is a historic port town along the Mediterranean shores of Tunisia. It’s a place where ancient times meets modern day. Tunisian culture and history thrive in the narrow alleys and bustling souks of the walled Medina. The nearby Islamic holy city of Kairouan and the ancient Roman city of El Jem transport visitors back even further in time. Sousse’s modern center, lively cafes and golden sand beaches offer places to relax and forget about time.

The Medina of Sousse 

The Medina of Sousse is a densely packed old town dating back to the early 9th Century. Its stone walls encompass early Islamic architecture, defensive fortresses and centuries old mosques. Cobblestone alleyways weave between white painted buildings adorned with blue and yellow painted wooden doors. Archways lead into vaulted tunnels and lively souks.

Rue el Aghlaba.  A central road in the Medina leading from the Great Mosque of Sousse to the Bab El-Finga. Its lined with stone and white painted buildings, historic minarets, small cafes and shops.  

Driba Square.  A stone paved plaza in a residential area of the Medina surrounded by ornate Tunisian buildings and blue painted doors. 

Ave Soudan.  A picturesque road along the southern wall of the Medina leading leading fromBab El-Kebli to the Kasbah Citadel. Walk the narrow alleyway inside the Medina and the outer road following the wall. 

See the Sights 

The Great Mosque of Sousse.  A medieval mosque and one of the oldest sights in Sousse. It’s built as a fortress with a tall stone wall and minaret that doubles as a defensive tower. An arched corridor lines the interior courtyard. Minimal details and inscriptions from the Quran decorate its stone surfaces. Large wooden doors open to the prayer hall, only visible from the outside to non-Muslims. 

Ribat of Sousse.  A stone defensive fortress built in 821 CE to protect the ancient city of Sousse from invaders. The multilevel structure is shaped like a classic Middle Ages castle with a square design, round bastions and walls with toothed battlements. The interior courtyard is flanked by arched corridors and a series of rooms. A tower looms high above its base, offering views of the ancient Medina and Mediterranean Sea.

Walls of Sousse Medina.  The Medina is surrounded by a towering stone wall, series of ramparts, arched gates and defensive fortresses. The well preserved wall dates back to the early 9th Century, enclosing and protecting the ancient city. 

Les Remparts des Sousse.  A hilly section of the north wall lined with a series of defensive watch towers. It’s best viewed from a narrow palm lined park on the outside of the wall during the mid or late afternoon.

Kasbah Citadel.  A towering fortress on the northern hill of the Medina with tall stone walls, canons and a lighthouse. It can be viewed from outside the wall and from within the Sousse Archeological Museum. The kasbah itself is closed due to ongoing military activity. 

Sousse Archeological Museum.  A museum with the second largest collection of Roman era mosaics, primarily discovered in modern day Sousse. Given the port city’s location on the Mediterranean, many mosaics feature Roman sea gods, mythical sea creatures, marine animals, fishing scenes and ships. Other mosaics include scenes from everyday life including commonly eaten foods, horse races, comedy and hunting. Some are so detailed that they portray vivid facial expressions, shadows and patterns on clothes. 

Shop the Souks 

Sousse Medina Souk (Rue d’Angelterre).  The Medina’s main souk leading from behind the Great Mosque of Sousse to the south gate, Bab El-Kebli. It’s lined with shops and vendors selling leather goods, woven rugs, olive wood kitchenware, colorful ceramics, perfumes, Tunisian sweets, street food, dates and spices. 

Souk El-Caïd.  A souk leading from the west gate Bab El-Gharbi to Rue d’Angelterre. The stepped street is lined with shops, restaurants, cafes and a tunneled section with jewelry shops. 

Good to Know.  Half of the shops and vendors stay closed on days when a cruise ship is not docked. 

Pro Tip.  Haggle and negotiate for the best price. Offer 20% of the first price, expecting to meet somewhere in the middle. Don’t be afraid to walk away. 

Relax on the Beaches 

Bou Jaafar Beach.  A white sand beach with a seaside promenade. It’s the closest beach to the Medina yet sparsely visited. There are a couple spots to rent umbrellas and beach lounges. 

Sousse Beach.  A lengthy white sand beach in the Sousse’s hotel zone. It’s the city’s most popular beach with umbrella and beach lounge rentals, restaurants and cafes and marine activities. 

Enjoy the Cafes 

Café et Restaurant Kasbah.  A cafe in the middle of the Medina along Souk El-Caïd. Come here for Turkish sand coffee made street side. Sit inside, surrounded by an eclectic mix of decor like patterned rugs and antique artifacts. 

Dar Chatt Coffee Shop.  A quiet beachfront cafe and restaurant near the city center. Come here to enjoy a coffee while overlooking the deep blue hues of the Mediterranean. 

Visit The Holy City of Kairouan

Kairouan is an ancient city, regarded as the fourth most holy city in Islam. Its Islamic architecture and religious sights make it a place of pilgrimage for Muslims. It’s easily reachable on a day trip from Sousse. 

The Medina of Kairouan

A pristine stone wall surrounds the ancient Medina of Kairouan. Inside are historic mosques and mausoleums, cobblestone alleyways and tunnels, souks selling handmade rugs and Tunisian pastries. Buildings are supported by stone columns repurposed from the ruins of Carthage. Blue and green painted doors accent white plastered walls and golden stone facades.

Ave Habib Bourguiba.  A central road leading through the Medina between the Jalladin and Tunis Gates. It’s lined with storefronts and vendors selling Berber rugs, local pastries, tin tea sets, jewelry and clothes. 

Jalladin Gate.  One of several arched gates along the stone wall leading into the Medina. It leads to the bustling south side of Ave Habib Bourguiba. 

Tunis Gate.  An arched gate leading into the Medina. It’s flanked with marble columns from the ruins of Carthage. It leads to the north side of Ave Habib Bourguiba. 

El Jadid Gate.  A double arched gate with marble columns from Carthage. along the western corner of the Medina. It frames the minaret of the Zeitouna Mosque. 

Place des Martyres.  A plaza outside of the Jalladin Gate with views of the Medina’s stone wall and guard towers.

The Grand Mosque of Kairouan.  One of the holiest places in Islam and one of the world’s oldest mosques. It dates back to 670 CE, just decades after the religion’s founding. It served as a model for all future mosques in the Maghreb (the western Arab world). Its inner courtyard can be visited while prayer hall is only visible to non-Muslims. 

• The Exterior.  The mosque is reminiscent of the Medina’s wall with a golden stone facade, horseshoe shaped arches and minimal detailing. Its square stepped minarets feature a ribbed dome roof with a crescent moon and arched windows.

• The Inner Courtyard.  A large marble tiled courtyard flanked by arched corridors built with mismatched stone columns repurposed from the ruins of Carthage. The mosques two minarets stand opposite each other, announcing the Muslim call to prayer. Small sun dials are built into sections of the inner walls.

• The Prayer Hall.  Large wooden doors with ornate designs lead inside of the dimly lit prayer hall. Woven mats cover the floor where worshipers pray. Roman columns support stone arches and wooden beams. Conical chandeliers hang from the ceiling. The rear wall features geometric patterns and shapes of mosques in Islam’s four holy cities. Non Muslims cannot enter the prayer hall however it’s open for viewing. 

• Good to Know.  Dress modestly, covering legs and shoulders. Women need to cover their hair with a hat or scarf. Coverings can be borrowed from the ticket desk. 

Tapis Okba Terrace.  A rooftop cafe with views of the Grand Mosque and Medina. It’s accessible through a Tunisian rug shop with no pressure to buy anything. 

Mausolée Sidi Abid el Ghariani.  An ornate mausoleum with the entombed remains of a 14th Century Islamic scholar. Its surfaces are embellished with hand illustrated tiles, elaborate plasterwork, intricately painted wooden panels and interlaced geometric stonework. The central courtyard features Ottoman and Moorish influences like tiles depicting Istanbul’s Blue Mosque and horseshoe shaped arches. 

Good to Know.  The ticket from the Grand Mosque includes access to the mausoleum.

Ouled Farhane Graveyard.  An Islamic cemetery located outside of the walled Medina near the Grand Mosque. It’s comprised of white painted graves and simple headstones. 

Mosque of the Three Doors.  A small but historic stone mosque in the Medina named after its three domed doors. The stone work above is inscribed with Islamic inscriptions and decorative flourishes. The surrounding streets are lined with artisans weaving and selling Berber style wool rugs. 

Bir Barrouta.  A very unique cafe on the second floor of a stone building in the Medina. It’s built around a historic well operated by a camel drawn wheel that lifts buckets of water to the surface. The cafe makes coffees and teas using water from the well. Try the Turkish coffee. 

Makroudh Barrak.  A bakery in the middle of the Medina along Ave Habib Bourguiba with Tunisian pastries like its namesake, Makroudh. Makroudhis a deep fried date filled cookie made with semolina flower and covered in a honey glaze. 

Visit the Ancient City of El Jem

El Jem is an ancient city with Roman colosseums, archeological ruins and intricate marble mosaics. It’s easily reachable on a day trip from Sousse.

Colosseum of El Jem.  One of the best preserved colosseums outside of Rome and the third largest in the Roman Empire, capable of holding 35,000 spectators. 

• The Exterior.  Three levels of golden limestone, stacked arches and Corinthian style columns wrap the ovular colosseum. The grand structure towers above the city, only rivaled by the minarets of modern day mosques. 

• The Interior.  Arched corridors circulate through the colosseum while staircases step up to multiple levels to where bleachers one stood. Lower levels offer front row views of the arena and upper level provide a panorama of the entire colosseum. A restored marble section overlooks the arena.

• The Arena & Dungeons.  Passages lead to the arena where gladiators once fought and ancient performances took place. Stairs descend to underground tunnels and chambers with cells for prisoners, lions and chariots.

• Pro Tip.  The ticket to the colosseum of El Jem doubles as a ticket to the El Jem Archeological Museum and Thysdrus Archaeological Park. 

Roman Theater of El Jem.  The stone ruins of a smaller unmaintained colosseum. Crumbling stands and bleachers surround the ovular arena with piles of rubble. It’s sparsely visited and free to enter. 

El Jem Archeological Museum.  A museum with galleries of Roman mosaics from the ruins of El Jem.Walls are adorned with well preserved mosaics recovered from the floors of ancient villas. Tiny pieces of stone compose colorful images of Roman gods, musical instruments, African animals, hunting scenes, floral designs and geometric patterns. Some are so detailed that they look like handwoven tapestries. The museum also includes access to the Thysdrus Archaeological Park.

Thysdrus Archaeological Park.  The ruins of several Roman estates, once common in the ancient city of Thysdrus. Walkways lead between partially restored foundations, walls and columns of the sprawling residences. Millenia old mosaics of various conditions span the floors. Many of which feature similar designs and patterns to those preserved inside the museum.

The House of Africa.  A restored ancient residence from the 2nd Century with a column lined courtyard and a range of interior spaces. Rooms feature beautiful mosaic floors with illustrations of Roman gods and goddesses, African animals, geometric patterns and colorful marble tiles. Marble torsos from ancient statues and crowns of Corinthian columns line the corridors. 

Tunisian Cuisine 

Ojja (Tunisian Shakshouka).  A savory tomato stew made with poached eggs, harissa and aromatic vegetables. It can be made vegetarian, with seafood or various meats.

Kafteji.  A mix of fried vegetables like eggplants, zucchinis, tomatoes, bell pepper and potato. It’s usually stuffed inside or eaten with baguette.

Mechouia Salad.  A salsa style Tunisian salad made with grilled vegetables like tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, garlic and onion. It’s garnished with tuna, olives, egg and parsley. 

Brik.  A deep fried bread roll stuffed with tuna, olives, eggs and harissa. It’s a common street food snack. 

Fricassee.  A deep fried crepe stuffed with egg, tuna, potatoes, olives and harissa. It’s a common street food snack. 

Makroudh.  Fried date filled cookies made with semolina flower. They’re covered in a honey glaze and garnished with sesame seeds. 

Lablabi.  A savory and spiced chickpea stew served on top of toasted garlic bread with olives and fresh parsley. 

Chorba.  A spiced vegetable and chickpea noodle soup. 

Rouz Jerbi.  A aromatic rice dish made with chickpeas, carrots spinach and a range of North African spices. 

Where to Stay

Medina Airbnb.  We stayed on the top floor of an apartment in the historic Medina of Sousse. It included a bedroom, large living room and well equipped kitchen. One of the highlights was the private rooftop terrace with views of the Medina, new city and sea. It’s located above a bakery near the south gate, Bab El-Kebli. 

Getting Around

Getting to Sousse by Train. Take a regional train from Tunis’s main train station, Gare de Tunis, to Sousse. Check train schedules and book tickets in person a day in advance. First class tickets cost about 12 Dinar, second class tickets cost about 9 Dinar. Trains are often delayed by one to two hours. It’s probably quicker to take a Louage. 

Getting to El Jem by Louage. El Jem can be visited in a half day from Sousse. Take a Louage from the Al Lawajat Station in Sousse. Buy tickets from a booth inside a large warehouse filled with the shared taxi vans. Look for the line that says El Jem or the man shouting “El Jem, El Jem.” Tickets cost about 7 Dinar per person. The ride takes less than an hour.

Getting to Kairouan by Louage. Kairouan can be visited in a half day from Sousse. Take a Louage from the Al Lawajat Station in Sousse. Buy tickets from a booth on the back side of a large warehouse filled with the shared taxi vans. Look for the line that says Kairouan. Tickets cost about 7 Dinar per person.

Louage (Shared Taxis). Louages are shared taxi vans with a red or yellow stripe down their sides. They’re used by locals to get between cities, towns and across the country. They’re often faster than trains and significantly cheaper than taxis. Tickets can be purchased at Louage stations in each town. Vans only leave when they’re full. Louages operate from 7am until 5-5:30pm at the very latest.

Language & Phrases 

Arabic and French are commonly spoken throughout Tunisia. Some locals also speak English, Spanish and Italian. Download offline languages with Google Translate to help communicate. 

English to Arabic: 

• Hello = Salem  

• Goodbye = Ma'a Salama

• Thank you = Shukran

• You’re Welcome = Marhaba

English to French: 

• Hello = Bonjour (daytime) Bonsoir (nighttime) 

• Goodbye = Au Revoir

• Thank you = Merci 

• You’re Welcome = De Rien 

Location Specifics

Cash vs Card.  A vast majority of purchases are cash only. Credit card is rarely accepted. Withdraw Tunisian Dinar from local ATMs or convert foreign cash at the airport. 

Affordability.  Tunisia is a very budget friendly destination. Accommodations, transportation, dining out and sightseeing are easily inexpensive when traveling on a budget. 

Medina Hours.  The Medina slowly begins waking up around 7am. It’s fully bustling by mid morning and abruptly shuts down around 4pm.

Mosques.  Most mosques are off limits to non Muslims. They can usually be viewed from the outside. 

Staring.  It’s part of the culture for men to stare. You’ll often be stared down as you walk past shops in the souks, sidewalk cafes and by people sitting in cars. It’s best to ignore it and not think anything of it. 

Avoid School Children.  Stay clear of groups of tween and teenage school children. They’ll surround you, shout at you, mock you and ask for money. 

LGBTQ+ Safety & Dangers

Tunisia is not a safe destination for LGBTQ+ travelers. The government and a large percentage of the population have strong anti LGBTQ+ beliefs. Government polices criminalize LGBTQ+ people with punishments including fines, imprisonment, torture and deportation. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Entrapment Schemes.  Some locals that suspect you of being gay will try to entrap you and make you to admit it. Shortly after beginning a conversation, they will abruptly change topics and ask outright, “are you gay?” Irrefutably say no, look offended, end the conversation and leave as quickly as possible. This happened to us multiple times, in different locations including taxis, at markets and on the street.  

Elsewhere in Tunisia 

We spent a week exploring Tunisia, venturing beyond Sousse, El Jem and Kairouan to stay in the capital city of Tunis with day trips to the Mediterranean town of Sidi Bou Said and ancient capital of Carthage. 

For Next Time…

If we ever return to Tunisia, we would love to have a “Star Wars” themed moment. 

Stay in a Troglodyte Home.  A circular dugout cave dwelling like the one lived in by Luke Skywalker’s aunt and uncle. 

Mos Espa Film Set.  Tour the film set used in the prequels where Anakin Skywalker grew up. 

Visit Tatooine.  An actual city in the south of the country that inspired the desert planet. 

Tunis, Tunisia

Tunis, Tunisia

Tunis is a vibrant Mediterranean city in North African country of Tunisia. Its history dates back thousands of years, spanning numerous civilizations and cultures. Tunis is famed for its ancient Carthaginian ruins, historic mosques and picturesque Medina.

The Medina of Tunis 

The Medina of Tunis is a maze of historic buildings, energetic souks and bustling sidewalk cafes. Cobblestone streets and vaulted tunnels weave through the old town. Brightly colored wooden doors embellished with studded designs and bronze knockers accent facades of simple white painted buildings. There’s truly beauty in getting lost here and exploring the Medina’s history, sights and souks. 

Rue Achour.  A cobblestone street on the northern side of the Medina lined with a series of beautiful stone buildings designed with blue painted shutters, arched windows and hand painted tiles.

Rue de la Kasbah.  A narrow street leading through the center of Medina from Bab El Bhar to the Kasbah Square. The half closest to the gate is full of clothing and shoe vendors. The half closest to the square is lined with many street food and takeaway restaurants. 

Rue Sidi Ben Arous.  A lengthy street that passes through the middle of the Medina past quiet residential areas, bustling souks and historic mosques. 

Rue du Pacha.  A quiet street of the Medina leading to a hidden plaza with a large fountain at its center. 

The Sights of The Medina

Zitouna Mosque.  A historic mosque and Islamic university in the center of the Medina dating back to the 7th century. It features a grand minaret, column lined courtyard and stone masonry repurposed from the ruins of Carthage. It’s not accessible to non Muslims but can be viewed from nearby rooftops like Cafe Panorama. 

Hamouda Bay Mosque.  An Ottoman style mosque with an octagonal stone minaret. It’s one of the most iconic mosques on Rude Sidi Ben Arous, framed by a series of arched tunnels. 

Sidi Youssef Dey Mosque.  A 17th Century mosque and mausoleum, famed for being the first Ottoman mosque built in Tunis. Like most mosques, non Muslims cannot enter. 

Bab Mnara.  A 12th Century gate leading into the Medina. It passes through a vaulted stone tunnel built using Carthaginian columns. The historic minaret of the El Ksar Mosque towers above it. 

Dar Lasram Palace.  An elaborately designed 19th century palace in the center of the Medina. Its interior walls are covered in colorful hand painted tiles. Tall ceilings are adorned with gold leafed and painted wooden panels. The central courtyard features marble columns, highly ornamented plaster arches and carved wooden doors leading to stately rooms. 

Good to Know.  There are no official hours. If the front door is open, the palace is available to tour. Tickets cost 5 TND. 

Madrasa Slimania.  A former Islamic University built in the mid 18th Century during Ottoman rule. Its central courtyard features black and white arches, marble columns and green roof tiles. An ornately tiled foyer, prayer room and series of individual studies surround the courtyard. 

Good to Know.  Now a cultural center, it’s free to enter if the doors are open.

Roman Aqueducts of Bardo.  The lengthy ruins of a 2nd Century Roman aqueduct. Its tall stone and brick columns are bridged by a series of arched. It spans a street in the middle of a residential neighborhood, towering over adjacent houses. 

Borj Zouwara Fort.  The crumbling ruins of a stone fortress. Its round turrets and walls are perched on a hill in a residential area with panoramic views of the city. It’s free to visit and explore, though not well maintained are littered with broken glass and trash. 

Bab El Bhar.  A historic stone gate connecting the Medina and new city located in Victory Square. 

Victory Square.  A small plaza located on the edge of the Medina with two fountains, historic buildings and access to the souks.

Avenue Habib Bourguiba.  A tree lined avenue leading from Bab El Bhar to the Tunis Clock Tower. It’s lined with historic buildings like the French Embassy, Municipal Theater and St Vincent de Paul Theater.

Tunis Clock Tower.  An obelisk shaped clock tower in the city center covered in arabesque patterns.

Kasbah Square.  A large tiled plaza in the Medina surrounded by stately government buildings, a mosque and historic school and walled ruins. Visit in the early morning to watch the military raise the Tunisian flag. Avoid taking photos of any uniformed officers. 

Visit the Bardo National Museum

The Bardo National Museum is a vast museum housing the world’s largest collection of Roman mosaics.and artifacts from the ancient city of Carthage and past Mediterranean civilizations. The museum itself is an architectural and historical wonder, built within the former 19th Century palace. Spend a half to full day here, exploring the galleries and rooms. 

Carthage Room.  A grand hall with rows of marble statues and well preserved mosaics of Roman gods and the Emperor Augustus. 

Roman Villas Room.  A The reception room of the 19th Century palace with an elaborately designed domed ceiling. It features exquisite mosaics from the 4th century depicting scenes of daily life including fishing, wildlife, hunting and the ancient gods. 

The Virgile Room.  An elaborately designed room with an intricate plaster dome. It features important mosaics and sub-rooms with treasures like bronze statues, a golden breast plate, a jar with over 40,000 ancient coins and gold jewelry from the Punic, Roman and Egyptian periods.   

Marine Mosaics Room.  A large room with sprawling mosaics of the sea gods, sea creatures and fishing voyages. 

Petite Palace.  A palace relocated from the Tunis Medina with extremely well preserved rooms and courtyards featuring hand painted tiled walls, marble floors and columns, ornately carved plaster ceilings and original furniture. 

Constantine Room.  A room displaying stone funerary stelae and marble sarcophagi carved with portraits, motifs and poems of the deceased

Shop the Souks & Markets 

The Medina of Tunis is home to a variety of souks, traditional marketplaces full of shops, artisans, cafes and vendors. The souks meander through the heart of the Medina, encompassing narrow cobblestone streets and vaulted passageways. 

Souk el Bey.  A vaulted complex with coffee shops, cafes, take away restaurants and hat shops. An eclectic variety of tables and chairs litter the corridors. Locals come here to relax, meet, sip on coffee and smoke. 

Souk El Attarine.  One of the most bustling souks in the Medina. Its variety of shops and authentic atmosphere attracts both locals and tourists. Vendors sell perfumes, brass jewelry, linen clothes, leather bags, woven textiles, brassware, paintings, olive wood cookware and souvenirs. 

Pastry Souk.  Though not officially a souk, a corner within Souk El Attarine is is lined with a dozen bakeries and food carts selling Tunisian sweets and patisserie. Some vendors even hand out free samples. Try the Makroudh, a fried date filled cookie made with semolina flower. They’re covered in a honey glaze and garnished with sesame seeds.

Souk Trok & Souk Al Berka.  Two large covered streets with numerous jewelers selling antique silver, golden wearables and sparkling stones. 

Central Market of Tunis.  A large farmers market outside of the Medina with tables of vendors selling fresh vegetables, fruits, herbs, meats and seafood. Shop for strings of dried dates, various types of brined olives, fresh baked French and Tunisian breads, creamy farmers cheeses, homemade harissa and Mediterranean seafood!

Explore the Ancient Ruins of Carthage 

Carthage is the ancient capital city of the Carthaginian Empire. It ruled the Western Mediterranean for nearly a millennia from 800 BCE until defeat by the Romans in the Punic Wars. The city is home to Roman ruins of ancient baths, amphitheaters, villas, aqueducts, cisterns and tiled mosaics.

Baths of Antoninus.  The ruins of an ancient seaside bathing complex built during the 2nd Century. The baths are one of the largest built during the Roman Empire, featuring swimming pools, gyms, hot and cold rooms. Walkways lead through crumbling stone tunnels and arches, into open areas, cisterns and former rooms. Remains of stone mosaics, colorful marbles, limestone capitals of Corinthian columns and Latin lettered engravings litter the ruins.

The Roman Villas District.  A former Roman neighborhood home to the Carthaginian elite. Stone foundations, low height walls and columns from the ruined villas remain. Sections of ancient mosaics and marble tiles still decorate several floors. Pieces of clay pottery can be found scattered throughout. Olive and pomegranate trees grow from the ruins of several villas. Exposed wells peer into underground storage chambers. 

The Roman Villas of the Aviary.  The partially preserved ruins of a hilltop villa in the Roman Villas District. It’s named after a series of exquisite mosaics featuring birds and other animals. The villa displays the torosos of marble statues, granite columns and stone walls from likely once grand rooms. 

Mosaic of the Winning Horses.  A well preserved floor mosaic at The Roman Villas of the Aviary. The finely detailed mosaic features sections of equestrian scenes, horses, people, florals and birds. Colorful marble tiles with geometric patterns alternate between the mosaics.  

The Amphitheater of Carthage.  The ruins of a 1st Century amphitheater used for gladiator battles and public executions. Its ovular stone walls, toppled columns, underground tunnels and prison cells remain.

The Odeon Theatre of Iklibis Carthage.  The ruins of a half circular amphitheater. A viewing hill, stone foundations and toppled columns form a ring around the central stage. Exposed tunnels and passageways once transported lions, gladiators and prisoners for public spectacles.

The Roman Theater of Carthage.  A restored Roman amphitheater dating back to ancient times and still in use today. Its crescent shaped stone bleachers have held spectators and performances over the millennia.

Cisterns of La Malga.  A vast complex of Roman cisterns and aqueducts used to supply Carthage and the Baths of Antoninus with fresh water. The ruins can be viewed from a roadside lookout. 

Tips for Visiting Carthage: 

• Time Needed.  Many of the ruins are within walking distance of each other, making them easily accessible. The major sights can be visited in a half day however a full day is needed to explore many of the smaller sights. Plan to begin exploring at 8am before tour buses from the cruises arrive. 

• Tickets.  A single ticket allows entry to most ruins. It can be purchased from any of the major sights like the Baths of Antoninus or The Roman Villas District. 

• Getting to Carthage.  Take the 347 Bus from Tunis (Tunis Gare Marine) to Carthage (Carthage-Hannibal Station). Buses leave regularly from in front of the station, taking between 30 minutes and one hour. Tickets cost 1 Dinar one way. 

Visit Sidi Bou Said

Sidi Bou Said is a dreamy and picturesque town perched on an evergreen hillside overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Cobblestone streets and narrow alleyways lead past white buildings accented with blue painted windows and doors. A floral fragrance fills the air as flowering trees overhang homes. It can be visited in tandem with a day trip to Carthage from Tunis.  

Rue Hedi Zarrouk.  The main street leading through Sidi Bou Said. Its cobble stone streets lead past blue and white painted buildings, restaurants, cafes and numerous souvenir shops. 

Good to Know.  It can get crowded when there’s a cruise ship is docked in Tunis.Explore the quiet and picturesque side streets. Most tourists don’t leave the main street. 

Panoramic Viewpoints.  There are multiple panoramic viewpoints of Sidi Bou Said and the Mediterranean Sea throughout town. They’re all free with photogenic views. 

• City View Panorama.  A hilltop panoramic lookout of the Sidi Bou Said’s rooftops and the Mediterranean Sea. 

• Mediterranean Panorama.  A lookout point at the end of a narrow alleyway with cliffside views of the Mediterranean Sea. 

• Sidi Bou Said Viewing Point.  A cliffside lookout point of the Mediterranean Sea near the end of town on Rue Hedi Zarrouk.

• 365 Steps Punto Panoramico.  A scenic lookout of Sidi Bou Said’s verdant hillside. The steps connect Rue Hedi Zarrouk and Sidi Bou Said Beach. 

Bambalouni Sidi Bou Said.  A street side kitchen frying Bambalouni, Tunisian donuts dusted in sugar. They almost obligatory when walking through town. 

Getting Here.  Sidi Bou Said is easily accessible from Carthage. There are multiple ways to get here. 

• By Taxi.  Hail a yellow cab off the street. Ask to be taken to Mosque Al-Ghufran at the entrance to town. Negotiate price before getting in, expect to pay no more than 10 Dinar. Rides take less than 10 minutes.

• By Bus.  Take the 347 Bus from any of the roadside bus stops. Tickets can be purchased onboard for 1 Dinar.

• On Foot.  It takes 45 minutes to walk from Carthage to Sidi Bou Said. This is a great option if not on a schedule.

Places to Eat & Drink 

Cafe Panorama.  A rooftop cafe with panoramic views of the Medina and Zitouna Mosque. Order an overpriced Tunisian mint and almond tea to enjoy along with the views. The cafe is free to visit and accessible through a souvenir store off one of the souks.

Café Slimania.  A street cafe on an alley in the Medina covered with leafy vines. Come here for an early morning coffee as the city slowly comes to life. 

Cafe Souk.  A cafe hidden inside the garment souk on the northern side of the Medina. Join locals sipping on coffees and chain smoking cigarettes.  

Beignets de la Médina.  A take away kitchen in the Medina specializing in fried Tunisian street food dishes like fricassee & brik. It’s a very popular local lunch spot.

Chez Bilel.  A hole in the wall Tunisian restaurant in the Medina with flavorful local dishes like Mechoula Salad, Ojja and Kafteji. A combination of stews eaten by hand with fresh pillowy baguettes. 

Restaurant Neptune.  A Tunisian seafood restaurant in Carthage with an outdoor patio on the Mediterranean Sea. Come here for the grilled calamari, sea bass and fresh salads. It’s one of the few places that serves Tunisian beer. 

Dar Zarrouk.  An elevated restaurant in Sidi Bou Said with dining room views of the beautiful Mediterranean Sea. Their bar has an extensive list of Tunisian wines available by the bottle and half bottle. 

Tunisian Cuisine 

Ojja (Tunisian Shakshouka).  A savory tomato stew made with poached eggs, harissa and aromatic vegetables. It can be made vegetarian, with seafood or various meats.

Kafteji.  A mix of fried vegetables like eggplants, zucchinis, tomatoes, bell pepper and potato. It’s usually stuffed inside or eaten with baguette.

Mechouia Salad.  A salsa style Tunisian salad made with grilled vegetables like tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, garlic and onion. It’s garnished with tuna, olives, egg and parsley. 

Brik.  A deep fried bread roll stuffed with tuna, olives, eggs and harissa. It’s a common street food snack. 

Fricassee.  A deep fried crepe stuffed with egg, tuna, potatoes, olives and harissa. It’s a common street food snack. 

Makroudh.  Fried date filled cookies made with semolina flower. They’re covered in a honey glaze and garnished with sesame seeds. 

Lablabi.  A savory and spiced chickpea stew served on top of toasted garlic bread with olives and fresh parsley. 

Chorba.  A spiced vegetable and chickpea noodle soup. 

Rouz Jerbi.  A aromatic rice dish made with chickpeas, carrots spinach and a range of North African spices. 

Where to Stay

The Yellow House in the Medina of Tunis.  We stayed in a large two bedroom apartment on the edge of the Medina. Beyond its golden front doors are rooms decorated in Tunisian antiques, artifacts and paintings of the Medina. We booked on Airbnb.

Getting Around 

On Foot.  The city center and Medina are best explored on foot! The streets, alleys and souks are easily walkable. 

Taxis.  Yellow cabs are readily available and can be hailed off the street. Negotiate fares before hand or ask drivers to use their meter. Fares within the city generally cost between 5-20 Dinar depending on distance. 

Airport Taxi.  Hire a taxi from the taxi line at the airport to get to the Medina. Fares are negotiable, costing between 30-50 Dinar. 

Trains.  Local and regional trains are the best way to explore nearby towns and distant cities. 

• Gare de Tunis.  The city’s main train station and regional transportation hub. Come here to book tickets to cities further south like Sousse. Check train schedules and book tickets in person a day ahead. Trains are often delayed by over an hour. 

• Tunis Gare Marine.  A local train station with a train line operating between Tunis, Carthage and Sidi Bou Said. Tickets can be purchased the day of. 

Language & Phrases 

Arabic and French are commonly spoken throughout Tunisia. Some locals also speak English, Spanish and Italian. Download offline languages with Google Translate to help communicate. 

English to Arabic: 

• Hello = Salem  

• Goodbye = Ma'a Salama

• Thank you = Shukran

• You’re Welcome = Marhaba

English to French: 

• Hello = Bonjour (daytime) Bonsoir (nighttime) 

• Goodbye = Au Revoir

• Thank you = Merci 

• You’re Welcome = De Rien 

Location Specifics

Cash vs Card.  A vast majority of purchases are cash only. Credit card is rarely accepted. Withdraw Tunisian Dinar from local ATMs or convert foreign cash at the airport. 

Affordability.  Tunisia is a very budget friendly destination. Accommodations, transportation, dining out and sightseeing are easily inexpensive when traveling on a budget. 

Medina Hours.  The Medina slowly begins waking up around 7am. It’s fully bustling by mid morning and abruptly shuts down around 4pm.

Mosques.  Most mosques are off limits to non Muslims. They can usually be viewed from the outside. 

Staring.  It’s part of the culture for men to stare. You’ll often be stared down as you walk past shops in the souks, sidewalk cafes and by people sitting in cars. It’s best to ignore it and not think anything of it. 

Avoid School Children.  Stay clear of groups of tween and teenage school children. They’ll surround you, shout at you, mock you and ask for money. 

LGBTQ+ Safety & Dangers

Tunisia is not a safe destination for LGBTQ+ travelers. The government and a large percentage of the population have strong anti LGBTQ+ beliefs. Government polices criminalize LGBTQ+ people with punishments including fines, imprisonment, torture and deportation. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Entrapment Schemes.  Some locals that suspect you of being gay will try to entrap you and make you to admit it. Shortly after beginning a conversation, they will abruptly change topics and ask outright, “are you gay?” Irrefutably say no, look offended, end the conversation and leave as quickly as possible. This happened to us multiple times, in different locations including taxis, at markets and on the street.  

Elsewhere in Tunisia 

We spent a week exploring Tunisia, venturing beyond Tunis, Carthage and Sidi Bou Said to stay in the coastal city of Sousse, with day trips to the ancient city of El Jem and the holy city of Kairouan.

For Next Time…

If we ever return to Tunisia, we would love to have a “Star Wars” themed moment. 

Stay in a Troglodyte Home.  A circular dugout cave dwelling like the one lived in by Luke Skywalker’s aunt and uncle. 

Mos Espa Film Set.  Tour the film set used in the prequels where Anakin Skywalker grew up. 

Visit Tatooine.  An actual city in the south of the country that inspired the desert planet. 

Casablanca, Morocco

Casablanca, Morocco 

Casablanca is a Moroccan metropolis and long romanticized destination. The city is famed for its historic architecture and landmark sights. Palm lined avenues lead past Moorish style and French art deco buildings. Islamic minarets tower across the skyline as the call to prayer echos across neighborhoods. Cafes spill out onto geometric tiled sidewalks while lively markets entice the senses. Casablanca is the perfect entry point to Morocco! Plan to spend at least two days here exploring the city prior to continuing onto destinations elsewhere in the country. 

Neighborhoods 

The Ancient Medina.  Casablanca’s walled medina is the historic center of the seaside city. Winding streets and narrow alleyways lead past graffitied buildings with tall wooden doors. “Wrong” turns often lead to dead ends or into someone’s home. Stray cats roam freely at nearly every corner. It’s a wonderful place to experience local life with very few tourists. It’s significantly smaller than the medinas of Marrakesh and Fez making it especially easy to explore. 

Habous Quarter.  The Habous Quarter is one of the most beautiful areas of Casablanca, offering a blend of historic charm and modern glamour. It’s home to everyone from Moroccan royalty to everyday people. Narrow roads with window cafes, bookstores, street side bakeries and fruit carts meander through older areas. Shops display brass artifacts, Moroccan rugs and traditional clothing beneath arched walkways. Intricately carved stone minarets flank lush parks. Tasteful villas and palm lined avenues comprise modern areas. Flowering bushes and lush hedges overhang sidewalks.  

Mers Sultan.  Mers Sultan is a mixed residential and commercial neighborhood, known for its walkability and central location. Sidewalk cafes and traditional bakeries line the streets, framed by French Colonial and Moorish architecture, making it an inviting area to explore on foot.

La Corniche.  A ritzy seaside neighborhood with city beaches, newly built resorts, luxury restaurants and commercial shopping centers. A cliffside promenade offers views of the Atlantic Ocean, best enjoyed at a restaurant with an afternoon coffee or mint tea. It’s a popular area with tourists but lacks the charm of other areas in the city.

See the Sights 

Hassan II Mosque.  A grand seaside mosque with a towering minaret. It’s the largest mosque in Morocco and one of the largest in the world. The tan stone facade is adorned with Islamic ornamentation like Moorish arches, geometric patterns and blue-green mosaic tiles. The interior prayer hall is decorated with intricate plasterwork, hand carved wooden features and large chandeliers. A vast plaza leads up to the mosque and serves as an outdoor prayer hall. Arched corridors surround the minaret while large titanium doors lead inside to an underground ablution hall with dozens of lotus shaped marble fountains. 

Good to Know.  The plaza in front of the mosque is free to visit after 5pm. Paid tours of the interior happen on the hour several times daily. 

Ligue Arab Park.  An immaculate city park with traditional Moroccan elements like symmetry, tiled fountains and native palms. Rows of towering palm trees line a fountain spanning the length of the park. Shaded walkways and grassy lawns flank its edges. Do as locals do and come here to picnic, read a book or enjoy company with friends. 

El Hank Lighthouse.  A pale yellow lighthouse with an Arabesque crown overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. It’s a scenic spot to watch the waves and popular for sunset. 

Mohammad V Square.  A plaza surrounded by historic and stately government buildings with a large fountain at its center. Wander the square to appreciate the architecture and surrounding neighborhood before sitting down at Al-Mounia, a landmark restaurant serving traditional Moroccan cuisine. Dine in their garden patio or ornate dining room, feasting on couscous and vegetable spreads paired with khobz. 

Old Portuguese Fort.  A small colonial era fort with bronze cannons and stone turrets built along the wall of the medina. It serves as an entry point to the medina and hosts, La Sqala, an atmospheric cafe and garden restaurant. Peach colored walls, blue painted shutters and Moroccan tiled tables accent the space as verdant plants grow throughout. Come here for afternoon tea, traditional baked goods and savory tagines. 

Rick’s Cafe.  Of all the gin joints in the world, this one is likely the most famous. The elegant space is styled after Rick's Café Américain from the 1942 film, Casablanca. Without reservations, we sat at the bar sipping on gin martinis and negronis. Call ahead to make dinner reservations and stay for the live jazz performances. 

Shop the Markets

The Great Habous Olive Market.  A historic market in the Habous Quarter dedicated solely to the sale of olives and olive oils. Terracotta trays with colorful mounds of olives are displayed on tables throughout the plaza. The tangy smell of brine wafts through the air as welcoming vendors offer free samples. We purchased a half kilo of mixed olives spiced with harissa and a bottle of the purest tasting olive oil. 

Central Marketplace.  A seafood marketplace with icy displays of freshly caught Atlantic seafood. Come here to enjoy a seafood meal prepared at one of the many no frills restaurants. Hosts playfully compete for customers, offering free sides dishes. We dined at Chez Lachen, ordering the pan fries sardines and freshly shucked oysters paired with khobz, za’alook, lentils, tomato salad and harissa. 

The Medina Market.  A market within the Medina lined with shops and vendors selling a range of goods including clothing, shoes, accessories, jewelry, textiles, oils, teas and spices. It caters heavily to locals looking for a deal. Enter the market through, Baba el Kebir, an arched sandstone gate within the Medina wall.

Chleuh Market.  A local morning market along Rue Chleuh in the Ancient Medina. Vendors display carts and wooden boxes with vegetables, fruits and freshly caught fish. The scent of fresh mint wafts from piles of herbs. Bakers deliver baskets of aromatic breads. Corner stores sell nuts, trays of dates and stacked cartons of eggs. Butchers behead chickens on the spot for paying customers. 

Moroccan Cuisine 

Tagine.  A mixture of vegetables, meats, dried fruits and spices stewed together in a conical clay dish. It’s a staple dishes of Moroccan cuisine.

Couscous.  A steamed grain covered in a savory broth and garnished with vegetables and meats.

Harira.  A traditional Moroccan soup made from tomatoes, chickpeas, fresh herb and aromatic spices.

Khobs Bread.  A light and airy flatbread served with every meal. It’s fresh baked daily and can be bought from for 1 DH from local bakeries. 

Msemmen.  A flaky and layered pan fried flat bread often eaten at breakfast with honey. It’s commonly cooked by street vendors on flat top griddles. 

Sfenj (Moroccan Donuts).  Yeasty rings of fried dough heavily coated in plain sugar. They’re a common street food snack and usually paired with a tiny cup of coffee. 

Moroccan Pastry.  Small pastries made from filo dough, peanuts, honey, orange blossom water and spices. They common to enjoy with mint tea. 

Mint Tea.  Hot tea made with fresh mint leaves and sugar cubes. It’s served as a common welcome drink.

Fresh Squeed Juice.  Juices are commonly drank across Morocco. Try fresh squeed orange, pomegranate or sugar cane from a street side juice cart. 

Moroccan Orange Soda.  Orange is one of the most popular flavors in Morocco. Try a Moroccan orange soda like Orangina or Hawai.

Arabic Words & Phrases 

Knowing a few worlds and phases in Arabic goes a long way in Moroccan when interacting with locals. Some of the most common and easy to remember are: 

• Hello = Salama

• Goodbye = Beslama

• Thank you = Shukran

• You’re welcome = Marhaba 

Location Specifics 

When to Visit.  September is the best month of the year to visit Morocco. It’s just before peak travel season with hot to moderate temperatures. Temperatures are typically cooler near the Atlantic coast in Casablanca. 

Language.  Arabic, French and English are commonly spoken by many people, seen on signage and menus. 

Cash vs Card.  Cash is preferred and often only accepted method of payment at many businesses. Confirm before ordering at restaurants or agreeing to services.

Safety.  Casablanca a generally safe destination to visit. Be aware of your surrounding and keep hold of personal belonging to avoid pick pocketing. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption or cooking with in Morocco. Only use bottled water. 

Alcohol.  The sale of alcohol is heavily controlled throughout the country. Only some restaurants will serve cocktails, beer and wine. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Moroccan laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Getting Around 

Airport Taxi.  There is a taxi stand past customs at the airport with regulated prices for taxis to Casablanca and to cities across the country. Expect to pay around $30 USD from the airport to the city. 

Petit Taxi.  Small red taxis present throughout the city. They’re safe, affordable and quick when getting around. Hail one off the street and negotiate price before getting in. Fares are usually under 100.

On Foot.  The city is easily walkable and generally safe, making it a fun way to get around and explore.

Elsewhere in Morocco

We spent a little over three weeks traveling across Morocco, experiencing so much of the country’s culture, cuisine and history. Drive across the Atlas Mountains to the Sahara Desert, making stops at palm oases and crumbing Kasbahs on a Moroccan Roadtrip. Get lost in the chaotic alleyways, spice markets and souks of Marrakesh. Explore the ancient medina and historic Islamic sights of Fes. Wander the azure streets and hillside of Chefchaouen, The Blue City.

Moroccan Roadtrip

From The Atlas to The Sahara

Morocco is a mesmerizing country with scenic landscapes, enchanting kasbahs and rich cultural influences. We spent a week roadtripping between the historic medinas of Marrakesh and Fez. The journey led us through the Atlas Mountains to desert towns, crumbling ksars, palm covered oases, steep gorges, sprawling sand dunes and Berber camps of the Sahara Desert. 

Ait Ben Haddou 

Ait Ben Haddou is a desert town famed for its ancient ksar, towering kasbahs and Berber culture. 

The Ancient Ksar.  Adobe buildings and four towered kasbahs rise from the hillside of the ancient ksar. Their sand hued facades blend in with the desert landscape. Berber patterns and geometric designs decorate their outer walls. Narrow streets and passageways meander past cafes with rooftop terraces and vendors selling Berber goods.

Pro Tip.  Walk through the empty streets of the ksar after the sun rises.

The Modern Village.  A contemporary expansion of the ancient ksar. Its sand hued buildings are home to local residents, tourist hotels, Moroccan restaurants and artisan. Rooftop terraces overlook the ancient ksar offering panoramic views of its grandeur and the surrounding landscape. 

Tour The Kasbahs.  Ait Ben Haddou’s kasbahs are worth visiting to experience local life and traditions. Their owners typically charge a small fee to enter.

• The Museum Kasbah.  A large kasbah with several connected rooms and a central staircase leading to the upper floors and the roof. Traditional tools, ceramics and textiles are displayed on interior walls. The roof offers views of the ancient ksar, its neighboring kasbahs and adobe houses. 

• The Widow’s Kasbah.  A crumbling kasbah still inhabited by an older woman. She toured us through the ground floor, showing us her kitchen, bedroom and living area where she weaves. She let us explore the abandoned upper floor.

• Maison de l'Oralité.  A large kasbah converted into a museum and cultural center dedicated to Berber arts, language and traditions. Its exhibits feature traditional musical instruments, weaving tools and looms, historic photos and stories of local folklore. The kasbah is one of the best preserved and still half occupied by a local family.Visit its rooftop for views of the ksar and surrounding landscape. 

Ksar vs Kasbah.  Two terms used to describe the architecture of desert villages like Ait Ben Haddou. 

• Ksar refers to the walled city or fortified village made up of one or multiple kasbahs and surrounding houses.

• Kasbah is a wealthy family’s house, often built within a ksar. They’re larger than surrounding houses and defined by their four cornered towers.

Berber Souks.  Ait Ben Haddou was built along an ancient Berber caravan route. Berber craft and culture continues to prosper in souks of the ancient ksar. The narrow alleyways are lined with vendors displaying traditional goods and antiques. Shops sell metal jewelry, patterned rugs, colorful scarves, desert knives, brass lamps, clay pottery, carved wooden locks and paintings. 

Good to Know.  Accept mint tea if offered by a shopkeeper, it’s Berber hospitality. Sit down and chat for a few minutes. Leave when ready and don’t feel pressured to buy anything. 

Pro Tip.  Ait Ben Haddou is a good place to buy Moroccan and Berber made items. Vendors are less aggressive than in larger cities and prices are often reasonable.

The Ounila River.  A river separating The Ancient Ksar and Modern Village. Walk across its foot bridge or the stepping stones to transit in-between. 

• Foot Bridge.  A pedestrian bridge leading directly between the modern village and ancient ksar. It’s free to cross and flanked by local restaurants and vendors. 

• Stepping Stones.  During the dry season, stepping stones and sand bags create makeshift paths across the muddy river. This route offers scenic views of the ksar and its kasbahs.

• Pro Tip.  Follow the stepping stones across the river and walk downstream to the olive groves. A trail passes through them leading to the ksar’s eastern gate. This route avoids paying to enter or exit through the kasbahs. 

Ait Ben Haddou Viewpoints.  The ancient ksar is surrounded by different photogenic viewpoints from hilltop lookouts, rooftop terraces and street scenes. 

• Ksar d'Aït Ben Haddou Sunset Point.  A viewpoint on the narrow road near the top of the ksar. It offers panoramic views of the city and desert landscape. It’s especially popular at sunset but good to visit at any time of day. 

• Viewpoint Ait Ben Haddou.  A hilltop viewpoint with panoramic views of the ancient ksar and its adobe buildings. Visit at sunrise to see the sand hued city illuminated in an orange glow. Revisit during the mid morning to admire all of its intricate designs and details in full daylight.

• Street Viewpoint for Aït Benhaddou.  A sandstone roadway in the modern village leading towards the Ounila River and ancient ksar.  

• La Table de la Kasbah Ait Ben Haddou.  A rooftop cafe in the ancient ksar with views of its adobe kasbahs and the desert landscape. The stylish terrace is decorated in Moroccan poofs, rugs and pillows. Visit during golden hour or sunset to enjoy a pot of mint tea with Moroccan pastries.

Places to Eat, Drink & Stay 

• La Terrazza.  A restaurant with Moroccan style pizzas topped with local ingredients like olives, eggplant, tomato and zucchini. It’s one of the few restaurants that offers alcoholic drinks. 

• Tawesna Salon de Thé.  A bakery and tea house in the ancient ksar next to the bridge. Come here to enjoy a pot of mint tea with a spread of sweet and buttery Moroccan cookies.

• La Fibule Dor Ait Ben Haddou.  An adobe style hotel in the modern village. Its rooms are decorated with Moroccan lamps, Berber textiles and handmade artwork. Its rooftop and many rooms boast panoramic views of the ancient ksar. Our stay included a Moroccan breakfast with a spread of cheeses, jams, dates, olives, eggs and bread. We booked on Airbnb.

Tips for Visiting Ait Ben Haddou:

• Stay Overnight.  Plan to stay at least one night in Ait Ben Haddou to get the most out of visiting the ancient ksar. 

• Visit Solo.  Avoid group tours and visit in your own. You’ll have more time to explore freely. 

• Time of Day.  Visit before 8:30am to avoid crowds.

• Cash vs Credit. Carry cash and small coins for most payments. Credit card is not commonly accepted. 

• Drink Water.  Stay hydrated and carry water when walking around, especially during the afternoon heat. 

• Getting Here.  Ait Ben Haddou is reachable from Marrakesch by car. The scenic drive leads 3 hours through the foot hills of the Altas Mountains. 

Ouarzazate

Ouarzazate is a desert city renowned for its movie studios and historic kasbahs. It’s often referred to as “The Moroccan Hollywood” and “The Gateway to the Desert.”

Atlas Studios.  A vast film studio and one of Ouarzazate’s most famous with sets dating back to the 1960s. It’s particularly eye catching for its large scale Egyptian sets comprised of colorful temples, tombs and statues. Sets blur into one another, transitioning between Egyptian, Roman, medieval and desert towns. Vehicles like gladiator chariots, military trucks, replica sports cars, viking ships and aircraft are displayed throughout. Scenes from the Mummy, Gladiator and James Bond have all been filmed here. Tickets include guided tours of the sets with movie references, photo opps and free time to explore at your own pace afterwards.

Taourirt Kasbah.  A large and once prosperous kasbah in the center of Ouarzazate. It’s comprised of orange hued adobe buildings embossed with Berber patterns and geometric shapes. Their maze-like interiors are comprised of staircases and passageways that lead between disparate rooms, multiple levels and rooftop terraces. Repairs have been ongoing since the 2023 earthquake. Workers mix piles of mud, straw and water to create adobe bricks and plaster. 

Getting Here.  Ouarzazate is reachable from Ait Ben Haddou by car. It takes less than 1 hour to reach if driving. 

Kasbah Amridil

Kasbah Amridil is one of the largest and best preserved kasbahs in Morocco. Its sprawling structure is situated in the middle of the Skouras Palmerie, a palm covered oasis home to dozens of historic kasbahs and crumbling adobe ruins. The kasbah’s sand colored facade and adobe towers are decorated in intricate Berber patterns. It’s divided into three sections including two museums and a restaurant. 

L’Entree Officelle.  One of two museum entrances to Kasbah Amridil. Its historic interiors and rooms are restored with beige plastered walls and diamond tiled floors. A light-well illuminates its center while a staircase leads to the its floors, rooftop terrace and towers. The upper courtyard features Arab and Moorish style arches. It overlooks the palm covered oasis, neighboring kasbahs and crumbling ruins.

Entree Principale.  The second museum entrance to Kasbah Amridil. It’s the most historic and originally maintained section. It features adobe walls, straw and mud floors, kitchens with clay ovens and displays with antique tools. Stairs lead from an open air courtyard to the upper floors and rooms. Rooftop terraces offer views of the kasbah towers and oasis. 

Kasbah Amridil Restaurant.  The third section of the kasbah is a restaurant. Its second floor terrace has the best views of the entire kasbah and Skouras Palmerie. Visit here last for a light meal and afternoon mint tea.

Tips for Visiting Kasbah Amridil 

• Tickets.  Tickets cost 40 DH per person for each L’Entree Officelle and Entree Principale. If you only have time to visit one section of the Kasbah, visit the Entree Principale.

• Getting Here.  The Skouras Palmerie and Kasbah Amridil are reachable from Ouarzazate by car. It takes about 1-1/2 hours to reach if driving. 

Todra Gorge 

The Todra Gorge is a massive river canyon in the High Atlas Mountains with steep walls, a natural spring and a palm oasis. Its orange and brown rock walls rise hundreds of feet above the river bed. A natural spring bubbles from the ground supplying the river and oasis with a continual supply of fresh water.

Hiking and Rock Climbing.  A hiking trail begins at the parking lot past the narrowest section of the gorge. It loops 13km across the desert landscape. We only hiked 1km due to lack of time. The walls of the gorge are popular with experienced rock climbers.

La Maison d’Hotes Riad Todra.  A small hotel at the mouth of the Todra Gorge. Its rooms are basic but suitable for a single night stay. It has a restaurant with Moroccan lounges overlooking a small oasis. The host prepared a vegetable tagine for dinner and spread for breakfast. We booked on Airbnb. 

Palmeraie de Tinghir.  A vast oasis stretching from the mouth of the Todra Gorge to the city of Tinghir. Groves of fig, olive, date and pomegranates trees grow in the verdant valley. Crumbling ruins of historic kasbahs line its rugged edges. Roadside lookouts offer panoramic views of surrounding landscape.

• Mirador de Palmeraie.  A roadside viewpoint of the palm covered oasis, its abandoned adobe kasbahs and the mountainside. Use this Map Pin for the location. 

• Oasis de Toudgha Vue Panoramique.  A lookout point closer to town with sweeping views of the oasis, its farmland and distant mountains. Use this Map Pin for the location. 

Tips for Visiting The Todra Gorge:

• Visit Early.  Arrive in the early morning, just after sunset to see the gorge in its most natural state without any vendors or tour buses. 

• Beware of Dogs.  Packs of stray dogs can be aggressive. Even if unprovoked, they try to bite at people’s ankles. Raise your hand in a fist and shout at them if they get too close.

• Getting Here.  The Todra Gorge is reachable after driving 3 hours from the Skouras Palmerie.

Merzouga Desert 

The Merzouga Desert is an expansive area with towering orange dunes and desert camps on the edge of the Sahara. It’s a popular place for camel trekking, dune exploration and stargazing.

Sahara Wellness Camp

The Sahara Wellness Camp is a Berber style desert camp nestled between sand dunes on the edge of the Merzouga Desert. It offers traditional accommodations, desert excursions and Moroccan meals. Reserve on Booking. 

Dune Hikes.  Hiking the dunes is one of the best ways to experience the Merzouga Desert. Meander along their sandy crests, steep slopes and shifting terrain. The rippled sand is often covered in signs of life. Look for animal prints from migratory birds, tiny mice and desert foxes. Patches of green grasses flourish from otherwise barren desert after seasonal rains.

Pro Tip.  Plan to hike the dunes in the early morning or late afternoon. Bring enough water to stay hydrated. For safety, let the camp know where you’ll be hiking and when you expect to return. 

Watch the Sunset.  Sunset in the desert is a magical time of day. The sun casts long shadows across the dunes as it slips below their crests. It makes way to the starry night sky and cool evenings. We watched from atop a small dune while sipping on glasses of Moroccan wine. 

Stargazing.  The Merzouga Desert is a dark sky area with stunning views of the starry night sky. We saw meteors streak across the heavens, watched satellites orbit overhead, spotted planets, stars and constellations. Download Sky Tonight, a free star spotting app utilizing augmented reality. 

Amazigh Music.  On most nights, the camp staff will light a bonfire and perform traditional Amazigh music using drums and tambourines. The beat is very rhythmic, creating a relaxing atmosphere for the end of the night.

Sunrise Camel Trekking.  Berber men lead caravans of camels and campers into the dunes to watch the sunrise. We rode a pair to a scenic point in the desert. The camels steadily paced across the dunes with us on their humped backs. The desert landscape glowed as the warm sun rose across the orange sand. 

Good to Know.  Berber camels are very well treated, given time to rest, eat and drink between walks. 

Merzouga Tour.  The camp offers an experience to learn about the local culture, history and nomadic peoples of Merzouga Desert. We started the morning by sipping on mint tea with a Berber family. We listened to the rhythmic drums and chants of a Gnawa musical performance. Our guide brought us to an abandoned mining town to hike and shop for Paleozoic era fossils found in the area. We visited a community farm and harvested fresh dates. The tour ended with an adventurous dune ride back to camp. 

Tips for Visiting The Merzouga Desert:

• Getting Here.  The Merzouga Desert is reachable from the Todra Gorge by car. It takes between 3-4 hours to reach if driving. The camp is reachable by SUV or camel trekking across the dunes. 

• Camp Fees.  Staying at the camp is very inexpensive. Optional activities, meals and transportation cost extra however prices can be negotiated.

• Desert Activities.  Once at the camp, what you make of the experience is entirely up to you. Simply relax, explore on your own or book paid activities. For the full experience, plan to stay more than one night.

• Camp Meals.  The meals are one of the highlights the desert camp. The chef prepares individually made meals for each guest. We enjoyed Berber omelettes, vegetable tagines and Moroccan spreads. 

• Daytime Heat.The interiors of the tents get extremely hot during the day. It’s best to relax in the shaded open air tents and enjoy the peacefulness of the desert. 

• Attire.  Wear flowy and light colored clothes during the day. Bring sunglasses. Dress in layers during the cool evenings. Check the forecast ahead of time. 

Moroccan & Berber Cuisine 

Berber Omelette.  An omelette cooked in a tagine with olive oil, onions and spices. It’s common in the Berber regions of Morocco like the desert and mountains. 

Tagine.  A mixture of vegetables, meats, dried fruits and spices stewed together in a conical clay dish. It’s a staple dishes of Moroccan cuisine.

Couscous.  A steamed grain covered in a savory broth and garnished with vegetables and meats.

Khobs Bread.  A light and airy flatbread served with every meal. It’s fresh baked daily and can be bought from for 1 DH from local bakeries. 

Mint Tea.  Hot tea made with fresh mint leaves and sugar cubes. It’s served as a common welcome drink.

Orange Drinks.  Orange is one of the most popular flavors in Morocco. Fresh squeezed orange juice and sodas are commonly drank. Try Orangina or Hawai.

Dates.  A dried fruit from the date palm tree. They come in dozens of variety and can be found across Morocco. They’re eat at breakfast or as snacks. Try them stuffed with a walnut. 

Driving in Morocco 

Driving in Morocco comes with benefits and challenges. While we enjoyed our roadtrip we have some pros, cons and lessons learned we wish we knew beforehand. 

• Pros.  The roads are well maintained, gas stations are frequent, the landscape is beautiful and you have freedom of being on your own schedule.

• Cons.Fake speed traps, police corruption and reckless drivers make driving in Morocco stressful and difficult. 

• Where to Rent.  We rented from Sixt at the Marrakech airport and returned it at the Fez airport a week later. 

Rest Stops.  Half the joy of a taking a roadtrip is making unexpected stops when something catches your eye. We stopped several times throughout our journey to check something out including remote roadside cafes, camel crossings, panoramic viewpoints, Berber craft stands and fossil and meteorite shops. 

Corrupt Speed Traps

Corrupt speed traps are common across Morocco. If driving, you’re all but guaranteed to be fined by police officers. Patrols of the Royal Moroccan Gendarmerie will signal you to pull over, confiscate your license and passport, then ask you to pay a cash fine for any number of reasons.

Examples of Traps: 

• Reduced Speed Signs.  Police set up a series of rapidly descending speed limit signs spaced mere meters apart hoping to entrap drivers.

• Hidden Stop Signs.  Police place hidden stop signs directly behind a high speed limit signs to entrap drivers. 

• Painted Speed Signs.  Police paint over posted speed limit signs to obscure the actual speed. 

How to React: 

• Option 1.  Pay the cash “fine.” They typically request 300-400 Dirham. They will not provide a ticket or receipt.

• Option 2.  Respectfully dispute the “fine.” Push back and ask for evidence as well as a formal written ticket. If legitimate, this needs to be paid in cash on the spot or at a police station.

• Option 3.  Respectfully dispute the “fine.” Push back and let the police know you did not violate the traffic laws. Mentioned that you’ve already been pulled over, paid a fine and reported the past incident to your embassy. Corrupt police will back down in fear of being reported at the mention of diplomatic support.

Document Evidence.  When approaching a speed trap, immediately slow down to 20km and have a passenger record the speedometer and posted signs. This can be used as proof to dispute the “traffic violation.” Document evidence of the encounter including the time, location, officer names and badge numbers. Be careful not to directly photograph or record the police. This is considered “illegal journalism” in Morocco. 

Arabic Words & Phrases 

Knowing a few worlds and phases in Arabic goes a long way in Moroccan when interacting with locals. Some of the most common and easy to remember are: 

• Hello = Salama

• Goodbye = Beslama

• Thank you = Shukran

• You’re welcome = Marhaba 

Location Specifics 

When to Visit.  September is the best month of the year to visit Morocco. It’s just before peak travel season with hot to moderate temperatures. 

Language.  Arabic, French and English are commonly spoken by many people, seen on signage and menus. 

Cash vs Card.  Cash is preferred and often only accepted method of payment at many businesses. Confirm before ordering at restaurants or agreeing to services.

Safety.  Morocco is a generally safe destination to visit. Be aware of your surrounding and keep hold of personal belonging to avoid pick pocketing. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption or cooking with in Morocco. Only use bottled water. 

Alcohol.  The sale of alcohol is heavily controlled throughout the country. Only some restaurants will serve cocktails, beer and wine.

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Moroccan laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Elsewhere in Morocco

We spent a little over three weeks traveling across Morocco, experiencing so much of the country’s culture, cuisine and history. Get lost in the chaotic alleyways, spice markets and souks of Marrakesh. Explore the ancient medina and historic Islamic sights of Fes. Wander the azure streets and hillside of Chefchaouen, The Blue City. Enjoy the coastal atmosphere and influences of in Casablanca.

For Next Time…

The Atlas Mountains and desert landscape of Morocco is a beautiful place, especially with extra time.

Stay in Ouarzazate.  We recommend spending at least one night here to experience the town, its souks and movie studios in depth.

Merzouga Lake.  A seasonal lake formed during the Merzouga Desert’s August rains. It’s a popular place to spot migratory flamingos. 

Ozoud Waterfalls.  A series of cascading waterfalls in the High Atlas Mountains. Trails leads up the falls to natural swimming pools. 

Chefchaouen, The Blue City

Chefchaouen, The Blue City

Chefchaouen, known as The Blue City, is famed for its azure and sky blue painted medina. Historic mosques and a medieval kasbah tower above Moorish plazas. Water flows from vividly tiled fountains. Moroccan artisans display handmade crafts along narrow streets. Vendors sell fresh fruit juices to thirsty customers. Stray cats and kittens roam everywhere. Trails lead up rugged hillsides with panoramic views.  

The Historic Medina 

Chefchaouen’s historic medina is the oldest section of the city with the highest concentration of blue painted buildings. Its labyrinth of walkways passes beneath blue colored archways and canopies of leafy grape vines. Cobblestone alleys meander past quiet residences and through lively souks. Picturesque staircases dead end at cobalt hued doors. The medina is truly a photographer’s dream. 

Callejon El Asri.  One of the most vibrantly blue colored streets in the medina. Picturesque staircases with and narrow alleyways branch off on both sides as it meanders through the town. 

Rue Ibn Asskar.  A blue street weaving through the center of the medina along a series staircases, of arched walkways, decorated staircases, tiled fountains and artisan vendors. 

Rue Imman Chadili.  A souk street with blue painted walls covered in colorful decor, baskets, clothes, ceramics and woven goods.

See the Sights 

Plaza Uta el Hamman.  A cobblestone plaza lies at the heart of the medina, framed by tree covered buildings and historic landmarks. Serving as the main hub for sightseeing, dining, and shopping, it features a Moorish fountain at its center, with the Grand Mosque and the Kasbah flanking one side. Restaurants, cafes, and shops line its perimeter, while narrow streets and walkways branch out in all directions.

The Kasbah.  A medieval fortress stands at the center of the medina. It’s defined by sand colored adobe walls, battlement towers, former prison and lush courtyard garden filled with palms, cacti, and diverse plant life. One of its towers houses a museum showcasing traditional Moroccan plaster, tile, and woodwork. The upper levels of another provide sweeping views of the blue city and forested hillside.

Place El Haouta.  A stone paved plaza in the medina centered on a small yet ornate Moorish style fountain. It’s surrounded by blue and white painted buildings topped with terracotta roofs. Intimate cafes and shops line is perimeter offering scenic views of the rugged mountainside. 

Plaza Mohammed V.  Just outside the medina, a circular plaza provides a tranquil place to rest and views of historic buildings. It features brick and Spanish-tiled fountains and benches. Lush flower beds and verdant trees grow amid grassy lawns. Visitors can walk beneath grapevine covered pergolas and sculpted bushes.

Lavadero de la Ciudad.  A freshwater stream once used for washing laundry now serves as a lively gathering place lined with juice bars and cafes. Oranges, pomegranates and melons float in canals of cool water as vendors hand press fresh juices. Locals relax along the stream, enjoying refreshments before or after hiking to the Bouzafer Mosque. Juices typically cost 15–20 DH.

Bouzafer Mosque.  A small hilltop mosque with panoramic views of the blue city, surrounding mountains and sunset. It’s a scenic 15 minute walk from the Lavadero de la Ciudad. Along the route, vendors often sell cookies to passersby. 

Artisan Alleys.  The blue painted alleys of Chefchaouen are home to artisan vendors selling Moroccan textiles and rugs, handmade paintings, brass artifacts, jewelry, ceramics, baskets, amlou paste, teas, spices and souvenirs.Artisans are generally friendly but can seem aggressive knowing that most visitors are only in Chefchaouen for a short period of time. Like in all souks, haggling is encouraged. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

El Cielo Restaurant.  A semi secluded restaurant located in a garden of the Medina next to a historic mosque. Their menu features Mediterranean and Moroccan spreads, tagines, kebabs and pitas. For dessert, try the Jawhara, a flaky pastry lawyered between tiers of custard. Reserve a spot in the garden ahead of time. 

Pain Chaouen.  A small bakery with a large range of French and Moroccan patisserie. Come here for the flaky croissants, butter cookies and glazed donuts. 

Break Coffee.  A takeaway cafe with all the usual types of coffees. It’s open early and stays open late for those in need of a caffeine fix. 

Where to Stay

Hotel Chams.  A small hotel located in the center of the medina near the Plaza Uta el Hamman. Each floor has multiple sized rooms and a shared bathroom. A rooftop terrace offers panoramic views of the city and mountainside. Reserve on Booking. 

Getting to Chefchaouen

Chefchaouen is reachable from Fes by shuttle. Shared shuttles transfer passengers between both cities multiple times daily. The route takes about 4 hours one way. We booked with 3T Travel on Get Your Guide. 

Location Specifics

Photo Fees.  Many homeowners charge a small fee ranging from 10-20 DH for a photo of their door, house, alleyway, etc. Carry small bills and coins for payments. 

How Long to Visit.  Chefchaouen can be explored in a half day but it’s best to stay for at least one night to watch the sunset and explore in the early morning.

Early Mornings.  Plan to explore the Medina in the early morning to see its blue painted streets and staircases before vendors display their goods. Much like Fes, most shops don’t begin setting up until 10am. 

Blue Stains.  Be careful when leaning against or sitting on blue painted surfaces. The pigment can rub off and stain light clothes. 

Illegal Drugs.  Drug dealers commonly try to sell hashish and cannabis to tourists. They may also invite you to visit their farm. Simply tell them no thank you if not interested and they’ll leave you alone. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Moroccan laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Elsewhere in Morocco

We spent a little over three weeks traveling across Morocco, experiencing so much of the country’s culture, cuisine and history. Drive across the Atlas Mountains to the Sahara Desert, making stops at palm oases and crumbing Kasbahs on a Moroccan Roadtrip. Get lost in the chaotic alleyways, spice markets and souks of Marrakesh. Explore the ancient medina and historic Islamic sights of Fes. Enjoy the coastal atmosphere and influences of in Casablanca.

For Next Time…

Morocco is a beautiful destination with historic cities, scenic landscapes and cultural allure. We have a shortlist of places to visit when we return. 

Meknes.  An ancient city at the heart of Morocco’s wine producing region. Its nearby vineyards offer tours, tastings and wine pairings. 

Volubilis.  An ancient Roman city with well preserved ruins and mosaics from the former empire. 

Essaouira.  A port city on the Atlantic with a picturesque medina, coastal ramparts and fresh seafood restaurants.

Fes, Morocco

Fes, Morocco

Fes is an ancient city and the cultural heart of Morocco. Centuries of craft and tradition continue in the souks as artisans shape metal, dye leather, weave carpets and haggle with curious customers. Picturesque mosques, soaring minarets and madrassas rise above maze-like alleyways that weave through the sprawling medina. Historical museums recount its place in Moroccan history while the royal palace emphasizes its continued influence. Luxurious riads offer a calming retreat from the bustle of the city that continues to attract worldly travelers. 

Fes el Bali (The Old Medina) 

Fes el Bali is the historic medina at the heart of Fes. It’s a living labyrinth of narrow alleys and hilly paths that overwhelm the senses. Quiet mornings and empty streets transition into bustling souks teeming with artisan goods. Throngs of people press through as vespas part crowds and stray cats slip through shadows. The call to prayer echoes from towering minarets. Islamic monuments, tiled fountains and medieval architecture layer the medina in history and intricate patterns. Wooden beams stretch between structures as if holding one another upright. Centuries-old doors open into hidden riads while dark passageways lead through ancient buildings like subterranean tunnels. The best way to truly experience the medina is to get lost within it. 

Fes El-Jedid.  Established in the 17th century around the royal palace and gardens, the “new medina” is a largely residential area of Fez. It combines narrow alleyways with wider commercial streets, local souks and scattered artisan shops. It offers a quieter glimpse into daily life and Moroccan traditions.

Souks & Markets

Souks, traditional Moroccan markets, weave through the medina in bustling alleyways of shops and vendors. They’re a wonderful place to experience Moroccan culture! They brim with vibrant colors, fragrant scents and lively sounds of haggling customers. Stalls overflow with aromatic goods like spices, teas and perfumes while others showcase artisan crafts like Berber carpets, brass lamps and leather goods. 

Rue Talaa Kebira.  A lengthy souk street meandering through the center of the old medina. Beginning near the Al Attarine Madrasa, it climbs uphill toward Bab Boujloud. The souk’s rich tapestry of artisans and vendors display Moroccan home decor such as rugs, poufs and brass lanterns. Merchants and customers haggle over leather goods, scarves and jewelry. Spice shops, small cafes and unassuming eateries add local flavors to the mix. A farmers market provides locals with fresh produce, meats and grains. Narrow alleyways  continually branch off, leading deeper into the medina. Visit the souk street of Rue Talaa Sghira for a similar experience. 

Souk Seffarine.  A metalworking souk centered around a small plaza in the old medina. The rhythm of sharp clangs echo throughout the air as artisans hammer copper disks into dishes to cook Moroccan pastilla. Metalworkers labor in the open plaza and inside cluttered studios while shopkeepers display copper tagines, teapots, brass lamps, antiques and a variety of goods. 

Souk Nejjarine.  A small woodworking souk in the plaza outside of the Nejjarine Museum. Artisans chisel away at blocks of wood, whittle figurines and spin lathes to create decorative boxes, berber locks and ornate reliefs. 

The Anou Cooperative.  A cooperative uniting female weavers from communities across Morocco. It allows them to sell their work directly rather than through souk wholesalers, supporting their livelihoods and preserving traditional craft. The studio offers artisan led workshops and weaving residencies, including a half day workshop where we learned to hand knot our own miniature rugs. A small showroom displays unique rugs, hand dyed yarns and other woven items. Custom items can be ordered through their Online Shop.

See the Sights

Nejjarine Museum.  A museum showcasing Morocco’s wooden craftsmanship. Housed in a restored wooden building, three floors of galleries focus on a different aspects of woodworking. Exhibits display Moroccan wood species, woodworking tools, home decor, musical instruments and architectural elements. 

Tanneries de Fes.  A historic tannery that offers a vivid glimpse into traditional Moroccan leather making. A series of layered vats filled with chemical solutions and dyes sprawls across the tannery. The air is pungent but manageable. Stacks of cow, goat, camel and sheep skins wait to be processed. Wooden water wheels tumble and wash hides as workers soften them with wooden mallets and dry treated pieces on covered racks. The process can be observed from surrounding rooftops. Finished leather goods are sold in nearby shops and souks. 

Getting Here.  Walk through a passageway on the left side of the Nejjarine Museum. There is a leather goods shop with rooftop views of the tanneries. They allow free access in exchange for perusing their products. 

Nejjarine Museum Rooftop.  The rooftop of the Nejjarine Museumoffers panoramic views of the medina while woodworking artisans display their craft in the plaza below. There is a small cafe up here serving coffees and Moroccan teas.

Al Attarine Madrasa.  A remarkably ornate 14th century university located in the old medina. At its heart lies an open air courtyard layered with intricately styled plasterwork, finely carved wooden features and multi colored geometric tiles. Floors of private study rooms surround it, creating a space that blends Islamic scholarship and craftsmanship.

Pro Tip.  Arrive at 10am when it opens before large tour groups arrive. 

Al Quaraouiyine.  A massive mosque and madrasa home to the world’s oldest university, founded in 859 CE. Non Muslims can admire its exquisite courtyard through the arched wooden doors. The mosque’s distinctive green tiled roof and minaret are visible from the nearby Al Attarine Madrasa.

Tomb of Moulay Idriss.  An ornate 8th century tomb, dedicated to the founder of Fes. Its interior is reserved for Muslims while the exterior can be viewed by all. Its facade is decorated with elaborate plasterwork, intricately arranged tiles and gold painted designs. Vendors line the street surrounding it, offering sand brewed spice coffee and sweet nougats.

Dar Batha Museum.  Housed in a former royal palace, this historical museum showcases artifacts distinct to Moroccan craftsmanship, scientific advancements and cultural identity. Exhibits include early Quranic calligraphy, architectural elements from Fes’ first mosques and the art of Zellige tilework. Other galleries feature  objects like woven rugs, textiles, pottery, jewelry and weaponry, highlight sciences like geometry, astronomy and horology and the role of water and light in designing tiled fountains and intricate brass lamps. 

Jnan Sbil.  A city park located between the new and old medinas. Its shaded walkways, sputtering fountains and alley of towering palm trees attract locals and lost tourists looking for a quiet escape from the chaos of the souks.

Fes Ancient Wall.  The medina of Fes is surrounded by an ancient stone wall with several ornately tiled and arched gates. Outer walls and fortresses provided additional layers of protection during the medieval period.

• Bab Boujeloud.  A beautifully tiled arched gate marking a main entrance to the old medina. Its exterior side is clad in ornate blue tiles and the interior in green. The lively street beyond is lined with shops, restaurants, and tea houses, opening onto a large plaza outside.

• Borj Nord Lookout Point.  A defensive fortress built beyond the medina’s walls. It houses an arms museum displaying historic weapons and armor. Its elevated position, along with nearby cliffside lookouts, offer expansive views over the city and surrounding countryside.

Places to Eat & Drink 

Restaurant Dar Khabya Original.  Hidden within the edge of the souks, a small and unassuming restaurant with some of the tastiest Moroccan cuisine, including vegetarian options like pastilla, tagine and fruit juices. Prices are inexpensive and portions are generous. 

Cafe Clock.  An alleyway coffee shop with a terrace overlooking a neighboring minaret and the rooftops of Fes. Come here for Moroccan coffees, cookies and local dishes. 

Cofee Kortoba El Karaouine.  A street-side bakery with freshly made trays of Moroccan patisserie like Gazelle Horns, crescent shaped pastries filled with almond paste, or Ghriba, crumbly almond cookies. 

Moroccan Cuisine 

Tagine.  A mixture of vegetables, meats, dried fruits and spices stewed together in a conical clay dish. It’s a staple dishes of Moroccan cuisine.

Couscous.  A steamed grain covered in a savory broth and garnished with vegetables and meats.

Harira.  A Moroccan soup made from tomatoes, chickpeas, fresh herb and aromatic spices. It’s typically vegetarian. 

Khobs Bread.  A light and airy flatbread served with every meal. It’s fresh baked daily and can be bought from for 1 DH from local bakeries. 

Msemmen.  A flaky and layered pan fried flat bread often eaten at breakfast with honey. It’s commonly cooked by street vendors on flat top griddles. 

Sfenj (Moroccan Donuts).  Yeasty rings of fried dough heavily coated in plain sugar. They’re a common street food snack and usually paired with a tiny cup of coffee. 

Mint Tea.  Hot tea made with fresh mint leaves and sugar cubes. It’s served as a common welcome drink.

Fresh Squeezed Juice.  Juices are commonly drank across Morocco. Try fresh squeed orange, pomegranate or sugar cane from a street side juice cart. 

Moroccan Orange Soda.  Orange is one of the most popular flavors in Morocco. Try a Moroccan orange soda like Orangina or Hawai.

Stay in a Riad

Fes is famed for its elaborate Riads, traditional Moroccan guest houses. They offer tranquil places to stay within the heart of the chaotic medina. 

Riad in Old Fes Place Seffarine.  A maze of narrow alleyways leads through the souks to this hidden gem in the  medina. Its door opens up to an elaborate courtyard decorated in Moroccan tiles, exquisite plasterwork and carved wooden panels. A tiled stairways leads to tiny seating areas and a rooftop with panoramic views of Fes. Grand suites fit the sultans of old provide travelers with a luxurious Moroccan experience. We booked our stay 6 months in advance on Airbnb. 

Getting Around 

On Foot.  Fes and its medina are best explored on foot. The maze of winding streets and narrow alleyways offers a true glimpse into the history of the city. While the medina is large and hilly, most walkways are covered, providing welcome shade from the hot sun. You don’t need a guide; expect to get lost, turned around and come to dead ends. Navigating gets easier after the first day. 

Good to Know.  Ignore people trying to offer directions. They may ask where you’re going, tell you a road or place is closed, try leading you into a shop or ask for a tip.

Petit Taxi.  Small red taxis are present throughout the city. They’re safe, affordable and quick when getting around. Hail one off the street or near a gate to the medina.  Fares cost between 10-20 Dirham for short distances and up to 100 Dirham between the medina and airport. Always confirm price and destination before getting in. Petit taxis are shared so drivers may stop to pick up other passengers along the route.

Arabic Words & Phrases 

Knowing a few worlds and phases in Arabic goes a long way in Moroccan when interacting with locals. Some of the most common and easy to remember are: 

• Hello = Salama

• Goodbye = Beslama

• Thank you = Shukran

• You’re welcome = Marhaba 

Location Specifics

When to Visit.  September is the best month of the year to visit Morocco. It’s just before peak travel season with hot to moderate temperatures. 

Language.  Arabic, French and English are commonly spoken by many people, seen on signage and menus. 

Cash vs Card.  Cash is preferred and often only accepted method of payment at many businesses. Confirm before ordering at restaurants or agreeing to services.

Safety.  The medina is a generally safe destination to visit. Be aware of your surrounding and keep hold of personal belonging to avoid pick pocketing. 

Dress Conservatively.  Don’t show too much skin, try to cover most tattoos and remove piercing. 

Berber Hospitality.  Shopkeepers often offer mint tea when visiting their shops, it’s respectful to accept. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption or cooking with in Morocco. Only use bottled water. 

Alcohol.  The sale of alcohol is heavily controlled throughout the country. Very few establishments serve cocktails, beer or wine in Fes. 

Slow Mornings.  Mornings in Fes are slow. Most businesses and shops don’t open until at least 10am. 

Friday Closures.  Friday is a day of prayer and rest in Islam. The city is quieter than other days. Many shops, restaurants and businesses are closed during this time.

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Moroccan laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Elsewhere in Morocco

We spent a little over three weeks traveling across Morocco, experiencing so much of the country’s culture, cuisine and history. Drive across the Atlas Mountains to the Sahara Desert, making stops at palm oases and crumbing Kasbahs on a Moroccan Roadtrip. Get lost in the chaotic alleyways, spice markets and souks of Marrakesh. Wander the azure streets and hillside of Chefchaouen, The Blue City. Enjoy the coastal atmosphere and influences of in Casablanca.

For Next Time…

Morocco is a beautiful destination with historic cities, scenic landscapes and cultural allure. We have a shortlist of places to visit when we return. 

Meknes.  An ancient city at the heart of Morocco’s wine producing region. Its nearby vineyards offer tours, tastings and wine pairings. 

Volubilis.  An ancient Roman city with well preserved ruins and mosaics from the former empire. 

Essaouira.  A port city on the Atlantic with a picturesque medina, coastal ramparts and fresh seafood restaurants. 

Marrakech, Morocco

Marrakech, Morocco

Marrakech is an intoxicating destination, both chaotic and charming. Maze-like alleyways wind through the walled medina, past historic buildings adorned with intricate architectural details. Bustling souks brim with artisans and colorful displays of rugs, luminous brass lamps, vivid spices and Moroccan sweets. Narrow streets open to lively plazas filled with performers and vendors, as the scents of mint tea and tagines drift through the air. 

The Medina 

The medina is the historic center of Marrakech. Arched gates lead into a maze of winding alleys and shadowed passageways. Warm sandstone building line cobblestone streets, their adobe facades softened by time. Ornate wooden doors and intricate archways lead to Islamic landmarks. Roadside stalls overflow with vegetables and spices as donkey carts rattle past. Crowds move through bustling souks, haggling with shopkeepers, while restaurants and cafes compete for attention. Riads provide calm retreats from the chaos and heat while rooftop terraces offer sweeping views of the ancient city and its towering minarets. 

Bab Doukkala.  Daily life unfolds in this traditional corner of the medina. Small souks and street vendors cater to local needs. Intimate tea houses and neighborhood restaurants bring together locals and tourists. Side streets branch into alleyways and dead ends, often revealing the calm rhythm within the maze. 

Mellah.  The old Jewish quarter offers a glimpse into everyday life. Shaded arcades support lively souks while side streets lead to quiet residential areas. The scent of warm baked breads drifts from bakeries. Visible signs of earthquake damage and ongoing repairs mark the resilience and enduring character of the neighborhood.

Shop the Souks & Markets

Souks, traditional Moroccan markets, weave through the medina in bustling alleyways of shops and vendors. They’re a wonderful place to experience Moroccan culture! They brim with vibrant colors, fragrant scents and lively sounds of haggling customers. Stalls overflow with aromatic goods like spices, teas and perfumes while others showcase artisan crafts like Berber carpets, brass lamps and leather goods. 

Souk Semmarine.  A sprawling souk and the largest in Marrakech. Its vibrant tapestry of Moroccan goods draws multitudes of visitors. Shopkeepers swing open large wooden doors to reveal dazzling displays. Berber vendors sell patterned rugs, colorful poufs and fuzzy pillows alongside linen scarves, leather goods and vivid paintings. Hammered brass lamps shimmer alongside copper tea pots, inlaid wooden boxes, clay tagines and ceramics. Bins overflow with herbal teas, spices, dates, snack mixes and pastries. Alleys of vendors branch off from this bustling souk while its main passageway leads visitors to the famed Jemaa el-Fnaa Square.

Places des Epices.  A bustling plaza lined with merchants selling pyramids of ground spices, jars of herbs, dried flowers, teas and perfumes. Shopkeepers invite customers to taste and smell samples of their products then haggle over price. Souk vendors fill the center of the plaza with Moroccan rugs, stacked poufs, wicker baskets and colorful decor. Cafes serving Berber tea and spiced coffee surround the plaza offering rooftop and street side seating. 

Souk des Tapis.  A large market showcasing Moroccan and Berber carpets. Stacks of folded rugs rise from floor to ceiling of showrooms while large pieces are displayed on walls. Each rug is unique, ranging from traditional to modern weaves and vintage designs. Vendors guide visitors through their shop and nearby warehouses, offering mint tea as they unfurl multiple rugs. After viewing a dozen designs, it’s time to narrow choices and haggle or thank the vendor and leave. 

Roadside Markets.  Locals buy groceries from small roadside markets and stands. Baskets brim with fresh vegetables, fruits, herbs and eggs. Butchers display meat on hooks or tabletops. Drums hold pickled olives, flours and grains like lentils, couscous and beans. Prices are refreshingly fair; no haggling required. Small convenience stores called Hanouts, are best for dairy, beverages and everyday essentials 

Tips for Haggling:

• Engage with locals. Most are genuinely friendly. 

• Haggling is expected and part of the culture. 

• Prices start high. Never accept the first price. 

• Offer one quarter of the asking price and aim to pay no more than half.

• Be ready to walk away after your “last final” offer; vendors often reconsider.

• Walk away if not interested or uncomfortable. 

• Only haggle if you’re serious about purchasing. 

See the Sights 

Madrasa Ben Youssef.  A 14th century Islamic school famed for its sophisticated design and intricate details. Its central courtyard is one of the finest examples of Moroccan architectural style. Kaleidoscopic tiles, chiseled plaster and carved wooden elements define the space. Zellige patterns and Quranic text adorn its many surfaces. White marble floors surround a tiled reflecting pool. Arched windows lookout from the second floor where dozens of private study rooms line hallways and interior light wells.

Pro Tip.  Arrive at opening to see the courtyard with the fewest visitors.

Almoravid Koubba.  A 12th century mosque and the oldest surviving structure in the medina. A small domed tower stands within an excavated pit surrounded by stone ruins. It’s off-limits to non-Muslims but viewable from beyond a gated perimeter. 

Koutoubia Mosque.  A historic mosque with the tallest minaret in the medina. The existing building and surrounding ruins date back to the 12th century. Its sandstone and tan brick facade feature Moorish arches and minimal ornamentation distinctive of the period. The mosque is off limits to non-Muslims but viewable from the outside. A large park with lush palm gardens, shaded walkways, fountains and benches encompass it. 

Marrakech Museum.  A former palace converted into a Moroccan art and history museum. Small galleries house historic artifacts including clothing, pottery, jewelry and furniture. Contemporary artwork and photographs depict Marrakech, the Atlas Mountains and the local people. Through its interiors, visitors can admire the former palace’s architectural features and intricate designs.

Bahia Palace.  A 19th century palace renowned for its stylized rooms, expansive courtyards and elaborate craftsmanship. It’s regarded as one of the best examples of Moroccan architecture. Its interior halls and chambers are decorated with intricately carved woodwork and plaster designs. Brass chandeliers hang from meticulously painted ceilings. Finely tiled surfaced cover columns, fireplaces and floors. The palace was heavy damaged by the earthquake but remains open during restoration. 

Badi Palace.  A 16th century palace characterized by its crumbling ruins, stone walls and vast courtyard. Underground tunnels lead to exposed ruins of guest quarters. Pitted sandstone walls with Arabesque arches surround the courtyard. Emptied pools reveal mosaic tiled floors while citrus trees grow from gardens in its four quadrants. Galleries display photographs of old Marrakech and artifacts discovered during the palace’s excavation, including tools, pottery, coins and scrolls. 

Saadian Tombs.  A mausoleum containing the tombs of a former sultan and many of his family members. The tombs are treasured for their Moorish design, white marble chambers, Zellij tile work and delicate plaster details. They were heavily damaged during the 2023 earthquake and closed for viewing. Their Moorish exterior and the adjacent mosque are still while undergoing restoration.

Walls of Marrakech.  The medina is surrounded by a series of protective walls and arched gates that allow movement in and out of the old city. It spans nearly 22km with sections reaching over 10 meters high. 

• Bab el Raha. A pristine section of wall is marked by one of the medina’s most imposing entrances, where twin octagonal towers flank an arched stone gate. 

• Bab Agnaou.  A 12th century archway featuring an ornately carved grey stone facade. It was used as the main entrance to the Badi Palace within the medina. 

Le Jardin Majorelle.  A famed botanical garden featuring a collection of cacti and dry palms from around the world. Red painted pathways lead through the garden past small reflecting pools and lily ponds to a historic blue villa. The richly painted house is accented with Moroccan designs and houses a Berber craft museum. Its galleries are curated with artifacts from tribes across the Atlas Mountains including jewelry, clothing, pottery, tools and weapons. No photos are allowed inside. 

Pro Tip.  Reserve 9am tickets a couple weeks in advance to avoid the crowds. 

Jemaa El-Fnaa Square.  A vast plaza known for its street performers, food stalls and rooftop terraces. Its energy shifts dramatically from day to night. Juice carts, henna artists and ethically questionable street performers with live animals buzz about the square by day. As evening falls, the spectacle gives way to rows of food stands serving grilled kebabs and sizzling tagines. Hype men lure diners though most stalls offer identical dishes at similar prices. Negotiate for a free appetizer and confirm the final cost before ordering.

Places to Eat & Drink

Restaurant Dardar.  A rooftop eatery with panoramic views of the medina and its tan buildings. It has a hidden feel to it, nestled within a souk and only reachable by a dark-green tiled staircase. Come here for Moroccan wines and traditional dishes. 

Zouhal Food.  A street side restaurant in the medina offering vegetarian versions of traditional Moroccan dishes like tagines, pastilla and couscous. The flavors are savory, the prices are affordable and the service is excellent. 

Cafe Arabe.  A shaded rooftop terrace with a full bar. Come here to escape the mid-afternoon sun, sip on refreshing cocktails and enjoy picturesque views of Marrakech.

Le Jardin.  A garden restaurant nestled within a lush courtyard. They serve a variety of contemporary Mediterranean and Moroccan dishes and cold pressed juices. 

Cafe des Epices.  A large cafe in the Places des Epices brewing spiced coffees and mint teas. Their ground floor patio spills into the plaza while their rooftop overlooks the chaotic souk below. 

Sweet & Sook.  A frozen sweets shop with Moroccan flavors of sorbet and ice cream. We visited twice, trying a scoop of everything on the menu! The orange cinnamon sorbet and the chebakia ice cream made with orange blossom, almond, honey, cinnamon and sesame were our favorites. 

Khobs Bakery.  A bakery specializing in the Moroccan bread, khobs. A baker invited us to watch as the team worked the dough, leavened the bread, loaded the oven and stacked bakes into baskets for delivery. Not officially named, use this Map Pin to find it. 

Moroccan Cuisine 

Tagine.  A mixture of vegetables, meats, dried fruits and spices stewed together in a conical clay dish. It’s a staple dishes of Moroccan cuisine.

Couscous.  A steamed grain covered in a savory broth and garnished with vegetables and meats.

Harira.  A Moroccan soup made from tomatoes, chickpeas, fresh herb and aromatic spices. It’s typically vegetarian. 

Khobs Bread.  A light and airy flatbread served with every meal. It’s fresh baked daily and can be bought from for 1 DH from local bakeries. 

Msemmen.  A flaky and layered pan fried flat bread often eaten at breakfast with honey. It’s commonly cooked by street vendors on flat top griddles. 

Sfenj (Moroccan Donuts).  Yeasty rings of fried dough heavily coated in plain sugar. They’re a common street food snack and usually paired with a tiny cup of coffee. 

Mint Tea.  Hot tea made with fresh mint leaves and sugar cubes. It’s served as a common welcome drink.

Fresh Squeezed Juice.  Juices are commonly drank across Morocco. Try fresh squeed orange, pomegranate or sugar cane from a street side juice cart. 

Moroccan Orange Soda.  Orange is one of the most popular flavors in Morocco. Try a Moroccan orange soda like Orangina or Hawai.

Stay in a Riad

Riads are traditional Moroccan hotels built around a central courtyard. They offer tranquil places to stay within the heart of the chaotic Medina. 

Riad Merstane.  Tucked away at the end of a winding alley, the riad is a peaceful retreat just steps from the nearby souks and sights of the medina. Comfortable rooms open up to a sunlit courtyard filled with lush greenery. Moroccan decor and artwork add style and authenticity to the space. A second floor living room and spacious rooftop offer places to relax and unwind. A well equipped kitchen provides the chance to prepare Moroccan meals while each morning begins with a generous breakfast spread. Reserve on Booking.

Getting Around 

On Foot.  Marrakech and its medina are best explored on foot. The maze of winding streets and narrow alleyways offers a true glimpse into the history of the city. Expect to get lost, turned around and come to dead ends. Navigating gets easier after the first day.  

Good to Know.  Ignore people trying to offer directions. They may ask where you’re going, tell you a road or place is closed, try leading you into a shop or ask for a tip.

Airport Taxi.  Taxis between the medina and airport cost around 100dh. Most riads can arrange for one, otherwise hail one on the street or near a gate to the medina. Always confirm price and destination before getting in.

Arabic Words & Phrases 

Knowing a few worlds and phases in Arabic goes a long way in Moroccan when interacting with locals. Some of the most common and easy to remember are: 

• Hello = Salama

• Goodbye = Beslama

• Thank you = Shukran

• You’re welcome = Marhaba 

Location Specifics

When to Visit.  September is the best month of the year to visit Morocco. It’s just before peak travel season with hot to moderate temperatures. 

Language.  Arabic, French and English are commonly spoken by many people, seen on signage and menus. 

Cash vs Card.  Cash is preferred and often only accepted method of payment at many businesses. Confirm before ordering at restaurants or agreeing to services.

Safety.  Marrakech’s medina is a generally safe destination to visit. Be aware of your surrounding and keep hold of personal belonging to avoid pick pocketing. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption or cooking with in Morocco. Only use bottled water. 

Alcohol.  The sale of alcohol is heavily controlled throughout the country. Only some restaurants will serve cocktails, beer and wine. 

Earthquake Damage.  Marrakech is still recovering from the devastating 2023 earthquake. Several historic sights remain closed or partially opened as renovation continue. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Moroccan laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Elsewhere in Morocco

We spent a little over three weeks traveling across Morocco, experiencing so much of the country’s culture, cuisine and history. Drive across the Atlas Mountains to the Sahara Desert, making stops at palm oases and crumbing Kasbahs on a Moroccan Roadtrip. Explore the ancient medina and historic Islamic sights of Fes. Wander the azure streets and hillside of Chefchaouen, The Blue City. Enjoy the coastal atmosphere and influences of in Casablanca.

For Next Time…

Morocco is a beautiful destination with historic cities, scenic landscapes and cultural allure. We have a shortlist of places to visit when we return. 

Meknes.  An ancient city at the heart of Morocco’s wine producing region. Its nearby vineyards offer tours, tastings and wine pairings. 

Volubilis.  An ancient Roman city with well preserved ruins and mosaics from the former empire. 

Essaouira.  A port city on the Atlantic with a picturesque medina, coastal ramparts and fresh seafood restaurants.

Madagascar

Madagascar

Madagascar is a vast island nation famed for its exotic biodiversity and stunning landscapes. Baobab trees tower across the horizon. Endangered lemurs leap through dense forests. Colorful chameleons lurk in the jungle. Jagged rock formations carve through the landscape. Orange sunsets make way to starry night skies. Back roads lead past remote villages. Restaurants serve Malagasy cuisine and locally infused rums. Wooden ships and outrigger canoes take sail from costal towns. Calms waves lap onshore white sand beaches and desert islands. Whales migrate in the deep coastal waters. Madagascar is truly an under the radar destination full of wonders. We spent 10 days exploring the country and experiencing its vast beauty.  

Morondava

Morondava is a tropical fishing town on the western coast of Madagascar. It’s a hub for the natural wonders like The Avenue of the Baobabs, Kirindy Forest and Tsingy National Park. 

Nosy Kely.  A seaside neighborhood in Morondava located between the town’s beach and mangrove forest. It has a tropical and authentic Malagasy atmosphere, accommodating both residents and visitors. Palm trees sway above thatched wooden homes and locally operated hotels. Restaurants and roadside kiosks serve freshly caught seafood and Malagasy dishes. 

Route Nationale 35.  Morondava’s main road and the start of one of the country’s central highways. It’s bustling with people, rickshaws and tuk tuks. Roadside shops sell fresh produce, live ducks, French baguettes and miscellaneous items ranging from clothes to solar panels. It’s a convenient location for travel necessities. There are several banks with ATMs, grocery stores and pharmacies. 

Morondava Beach.  A vast sandy beach spanning Morondava’s shoreline. Locals and travelers come here to swim, picnic and sunbathe. Fisherman catch live seafood. Large sailing ships ferry goods along Madagascar’s western coast. Nightly sunsets bathe the shoreline in golden hues. We were even lucky enough to see the green flash! 

Outrigger Canoeing 

Outrigger canoes are one of the main methods of transportation along Morondava’s coast. We joined a pair of fishermen at sea on two days of our trip. We accompanied them while fishing, went whale watching, visited a remote desert island and explored the ship building village of Belo sur Mer. Book with Eto Morondava. 

Deep Water Fishing.  Fishing makes up a large part of the local economy in Morondava. Colorful outrigger canoes and wooden ships line the shores and mangrove channels. We joined two fishermen on their outrigger for a morning voyage deep into the Mozambique Channel. Far off shore, the coastline of Madagascar was no longer visible. The vast blue of the ocean spanned across the horizon in all directions. The fishermen dragged two lines behind the boat, hoping to hook a barracuda, shark or tuna. After hours battling strong winds and fighting fish, they hooked and pulled an amberjack from the sea.

Whale Watching.  Humpback Whales migrate along the coast of Madagascar in the Mozambique Channel separating the island nation from mainland Africa. Jets of mist appeared on the horizon as a pod of humpback whales migrated through the waters. The pod surfaced every few minutes, exposing their iconic hump backs and giant finned tails. Even from a distance, their grand size dwarfed our captain’s outrigger canoe. Before disappearing into the depths, one whale continually slapped its fins against the surface of the water, as if waving us goodbye. Peak migration happens between July and September.

Belo sur Mer Village.  Belo sur Mer is a remote coastal village renowned for its hand built wooden ships. The village’s beach is lined with dozens of ship yards, colorfully painted vessels, dugout canoes and outrigger boats. Many of the traditional ships range in level of progress. Skeleton frames and partially planked sides stand onshore. Men chisel wooden pieces, hammer nails into boards and seal seams. Completed ships float offshore in the village’s natural harbor. Sandy streets and pathways meander further inland. Stickbuilt enclosures surround traditional houses made from wooden walls and thatched roofs. It’s a beautiful and remote destination with unique traditions. 

Belo sur Mer Voyage.  Belo sur Mer is located 100km south of Morondava. The voyage between takes between 3-4 hours, offering scenic glimpses into the coastal landscape and remote villages. Untouched forests, white sand beaches, steep dunes and sheer rocks cliffs cover the coast. Small villages with thatched huts, beached dug out canoes and local people line pockets of the shoreline. Fishing vessels with rectangular sails billow across the sea like sheets in the wind. 

Nosy Andrahavo.  Nosy Andrahavo is a lonely desert island in the deep blue ocean. It appears as a yellow sand dune rising from the sea, surrounded by the most vibrant shades of turquoise, aquamarine and blue. Bleached corals and shells decorate the shores. It’s possibly to walk the circumference of the island in half an hour. There is no natural shade on the island though the cool waters offer a refreshing escape. The crew prepared us a Malagasy meal on the beach, Trondro Gasy, a dish made from stewed fish with a tomato base, bell peppers and onions. 

Avenue of the Baobabs 

The Avenue of the Baobabs is one of Madagascar’s most iconic sights. Dozens of towering baobab trees flank both sides of a dirt road, creating a dramatic and picturesque landscape. Baobab trees are recognizable by their massive trunks, smooth bark and uniquely shaped canopy of branching limbs. We visited for the sunrise and sunset, getting to experience the avenue in all its grandeur. Book with Eto Morondava. 

Sunrise at The Avenue of the Baobabs.  The sunrise is a tranquil time to experience the Avenue of the Baobabs. The starry night sky quickly brightens with colors of purple, orange and yellow. The silhouettes of the baobabs take on more definition as daylight breaks. 

Sunset at The Avenue of the Baobabs.  The sunset is the most popular time of day to visit the Avenue of the Baobabs. Arrive in the late afternoon to experience the baobabs in full daylight. Watch as the setting sun illuminates them in a golden glow. Their silhouettes provide a dramatic contrast against the orange sky. We visited twice on our returns from Kirindy and Tsingy. 

Pro Tip.  The best view is across a pond looking west towards the avenue and the sunset. 

Famous Baobabs 

Baobabs in Love.  The Baobabs in Love are two baobabs trees growing around each other in a loving embrace. The phenomenon uncommon making the two trees a beloved landmark.

The Sacred Baobab.  The Sacred Baobab is a massive baobab tree sacred to the local people. Villagers come here to pray beneath it for rain, good harvest and pregnant cattle. The shrine surrounding the tree must be entered barefoot, connecting one’s self to nature. 

Forest of the Baobabs.  A vast area with thousands of densely clustered baobabs covering the landscape in between farmland. It’s an impressive sight to witness, located over an hour past the Avenue of the Baobabs on the route to Tsingy National Park. 

Baobab Vendors.  Local roadside vendors operate kiosks nearby most of the iconic baobab sights. They sell statuettes of carved wooden baobabs, baobab fruits, baobab honey and snacks. We sipped on coffee with Mofo Gasy, a Malagasy pancake made from rice flour.

Good to Know.  The baobabs loose their leaves during the dry season, exposing their nebulous limbs. The dry season happens between May and October. 

Kirindy Forest

Kirindy Forest is a protected nature reserve home to wild lemurs, exotic birds and snails. Trails lead through dense thicket of small trees with the occasional baobab towering above the surrounding forest. Book with Eto Morondava. 

Lemur Tracking.  Led by a guide, we tracked two groups of brown lemurs and one group of white lemurs. The brown lemurs nibbled on fruits in the tree top canopy while others foraged along the forest floor. Some were very curious, approaching close enough to see their amber eyes and long fuzzy tails in detail. The group of white lemurs stayed higher in the trees. They leapt great distances, springing quickly from tree to tree. One perched on a branch as its baby held closely onto its chest. 

Pro Tip.  Visit during the dry season when the forest is mostly bare for the best change of spotting lemurs. 

Good to Know.  It’s strictly forbidden to feed lemurs in order to prevent dependencies on humans. Guides however leave water in snail shells for them to drink from. 

Getting Here.  The route to Kirindy Forest is a bumpy adventure down a pitted dirt road.  It’s located an hour beyond the Avenue of the Baobabs and only reachable by 4x4. 

Places to Eat & Drink in Morondava

Le Corail.  A Malagasy restaurant with freshly caught seafood. We visited for our first lunch, sharing a spread of dishes including coconut shrimp, crab croquettes and squid skewers while sipping in Rhum au Coco and Ti Punch.

Bleu Soleil.  A beachfront restaurant with a chalk board menu featuring a list of “plats des jour” and the daily catch. We ordered the coconut stewed octopus and grilled tuna steaks bathed in a savory seafood broth. 

Bleu Soleil Glace.  An ice cream shop attached to the Bleu Soleil Restaurant. They serve freshly made soft serve ice cream using local fruits and flavors like Madagascar vanilla, coconut, baobab, chocolate and coffee. 

L'Etoile.  A bar with house infused Malagasy rums. A spectrum of bottles are displayed on a shelf behind the bar, each with a different rum infusion. We each sampled and sipped on several rums infused the vanilla, cola, herbs, coffee, dates, anise, baobab, coconut and cocoa. At night, a live band plays Malagasy music. 

Hotely Gasy.  A popular street food kitchen with Malagasy dishes displayed in a glass cases. We ordered a whole fish, boiled cassava, cucumber salad and fry breads. It’s a very affordable way to taste the local cuisine. 

Casa Marina Restaurant.  A hotel restaurant on Morondava Beach with free sun lounges and thatched umbrellas for customers and guests. We ordered cocktails from the bar and laid out for the afternoon. 

Law Milka Boulangerie Patisserie.  A locally famous bakery with French style pastries, classic baguettes and cakes. We ordered an eclair, pan au chocolate, custard raisin roll. 

Where to Stay in Morondava 

Kily House.  A boutique hotel in Nosy Kely with spacious and well designed rooms with outdoor patios. The hotel is located nearby several Malagasy restaurants and the town’s main beach. They offer coffee and breakfast, arrange tours and transfers. Reserve on Booking.

Good to Know.  There are scheduled nightly power outages between 6-10pm each night. Most businesses and hotels have generators to compensate. 

Tsingy National Park 

Tsingy National Park is a stone forest with a labyrinth of jagged and cathedral-like limestone formations. A series of walkways, suspension bridges and ladders weave through the park’s two sections, Grand Tsingy and Petite Tsingy. Book with Eto Morondava. 

Grand Tsingy 

Grand Tsingy is the largest and most impressive section of Tsingy National Park. The best way to experience it is on the Andamozayaky Trail. It leads through the rock forest and cathedral to reach The Tsingy. 

The Rock Forest.  The Rock Forest is a tree covered area with craggily rock formations. Ladders lead through steep crevices and over large boulders. Tree roots and vines are frequently used for support and balance. It’s a habitat for primates like the Sportive Lemur. Fossils of Jurassic period corals are visible in the bleached limestone. A shallow cave leads through the final section of The Rock Forest into the beginning of The Cathedral. 

The Cathedral.  The Cathedral is an area with vertical sections and towering stone walls that open to sky above. The trails are technical and more challenging than in The Rock Forest. The routes leads through caves, between narrow openings, up mounted stone steps and over abysses on wooden platforms. We attached our harnesses to cables for safety along jagged crevices and on steep ladders to reach The Tsingy.

The Tsingy.  The Tsingy is the most dramatic area of the national park. Thousands of eroded limestone formations point upwards like Gothic style spires. Cantilevered sections appear to be floating. Lookout platforms offer panoramic views of the sharp and jagged landscape. A suspension bridge crosses a steep ravine separating both viewpoints. 

Petite Tsingy 

Petite Tsingy, as its name implies is a smaller version of Grand Tsingy. It’s located along the banks of the Manambolo River in Bekopaka. A lush trail meanders into the jagged rock forest and labyrinth of crevices through a Gothic arched tunnel. The series of crevices slice through the jungle, some barely wide enough to shimmy through. Vines and roots drape down their rock walls. Flooded channels remain from the wet season. The trail ascends to an observation deck with views of the jagged limestone spires and surrounding forest. 

Getting to Tsingy National Park

Getting to Tsingy National Park from Morondava is part of the adventure. It takes a full day to reach in a hired 4x4 vehicle. The route is only accessible during the dry season between June and November. It leads along unmarked back roads, across rivers on barges, past rural villages and through baobab forests. It includes stops at Belo Tsiribihina for lunch and a multi night stay in the village of Bekopaka.

Good to Know: 

• Book a guided tour with transportation to Tsingy in advance. 

• A local guide is required to enter the national park. They can be hired from the Tsingy National Park office in Bekopaka.

• Visit before 7am. The sun and the heat can be overwhelming by mid morning. 

• Tsingy is pronounced “chingy” 

Lunch in Belo Tsiribihina

Belo Tsiribihina is a large town along the Mania River. It’s the halfway point between Morondava and Tsingy National Park making it a frequent lunch stop.

Karibo Restaurant.  A hotel restaurant with a chalkboard menu of daily dishes. We ordered a shrimp cocktail and tomato salad while on our way to Tsingy. 

Mad Zebu.  A very popular restaurant with Malagasy and Italian fusion dishes. We ordered two vegetarian plates to share, the tomato sweet potato gnocchi and red bean and coconut veloute with black rice arancini.  

Bekopaka Village 

Bekopaka is a remote village along the Manambolo River outside Tsingy National Park. It’s serves as an entry point to the park and as a location to stay with various hotels and campgrounds 

Where to Stay in Bekopaka

Tanankoay.  An eco hotel and campground with a range of thatched cabins and campsites in Bekopaka near Tsingy National Park. We slept in a cozy A frame style cabin. The hotel has a small restaurant with a range of Malagasy and French dishes. Try the ratatouille, spiced rice and Kabaro au Curry, a local dish made from coconut curry stewed beans. 

Bekopaka Night Walk 

Madagascar’s forests come to life with nocturnal animals as night falls across the landscape. Led by a guide from the Bekopaka Village, we explored the forested trails behind the Tsingy National Park office. 

Nocturnal Animals.  We immediately began spotting green and brown chameleons resting on tree branches and camouflaging themselves behind leaves. Their remarkable appearance is emphasized by their color changing skin, coiled tails and swiveling eyes. A pair of tiny mouse lemurs played in the dense thicket. One inspected us from a branch above our heads. Its big eyes and little body make it one of natures most adorable creatures. A beautifully patterned tree boa slithered up the trunk of a tree looking for its next meal. A small frog glistened on the dry leaves of the forest floor. 

Good to Know.  Visit the Tsingy National Park office in Bekopaka to hire a guide. The night walk lasts an hour and costs less than $10 USD per person.

Manambolo River Gorge 

The Manambolo River Gorge is a limestone canyon carved by the Manambolo River near Tsingy National Park. Villagers from Bekopaka navigate its waters on wooden dugout canoes as a means of fishing, transporting goods and tourism. 

Dugout Canoeing.  A local boatsman paddled us upstream on a wooden dugout canoe in the early morning. The sun rose above a bend in the river canyon, Illuminating the picturesque landscape. The chocolaty brown waters paint the limestone cliffs in warm shades of orange and brown. Erosion carves small caves and crevices into the canyon walls. We walked through a rippled cave entrance and into its dark inner chamber. Our lights revealed crystalline stalactites, jagged rock formations and tree roots from the forest above.

Good to Know.  Like Tsingy National Park, the Manambolo River Gorge is only accessible during the dry season between June and November. 

Rural Madagascar

The rural landscape of Madagascar is defined by its remote villages, vast farmland and towering baobab trees. Pitted dirt roads lead across many parts of the country. Baobab trees grow from between crops and rice paddies. Small villages are comprised of straw, wooden and adobe huts. Women wear vibrant patterned outfits and mud masks as a sign of beauty and for sun protection. Men heard groups of goats and drive carts led by Zebu, the local cattle. Children wave and shout out bonjour and salama from roadsides. 

Andasibe

Andasibe is a rural town nestled in the forested hills of Eastern Madagascar. It’s an entry point to multiple nature reserves and national parks including the Mitsinjo Reserve, Analamazoatra Reserve and Mantadia National Park. The town is home to several eco-hotels, roadside restaurants and farm stands.

Mitsinjo Reserve

Mitsinjo is protected forest reserve in Andasibe home to many species of wild lemurs and colorful chameleons. Guides offer nature walks and nocturnal visits through the forest’s dense trails in search of these remarkable animals. Tickets can be purchased and guides can be hired at the Mitsinjo Park Office. 

The Grand Circuit (Vahimantsina Circuit).  The Grand Circuit is one of four trails leading through the Mitsinjo Reserve. It allows plenty of opportunities to spot lemurs and chameleons, taking between 3-4 hours to complete. 

Indri Lemur.  The Indri are known for their haunting calls and adorable appearance. Though critically endangered, they’re frequently seen and heard within the reserve. Our guide tracked two separate families. One group sat in the trees, chomping on leaves and testing them for softness with their tongues. Their furry black torsos and white limbs hugged the trees. Their jet black faces and greenish eyes occasionally stared down at us. We watched and listened to a second group call out. Tilting their heads back, their piercing song echoed throughout the forest. 

Diademed Sifaka Lemur.  The Diademed Sifaka is a critically endangered species of lemur native to the forest reserve. We trudged off trail to track a small family feeding on leaves in the verdant canopy. They gracefully leapt from tree to tree, looking around before contributing their meal. The sunlight illuminated their tricolored golden, white and grey fur.

Parsons Chameleon.  Chameleons are a common sight in the park, though rarer to see during the daytime. We spotted an adult Parson’s Chameleon resting on a tree limb. Its vibrant green scales and brown patches blended in with its surroundings. Its long tail coiled up as it slowly walked while its independent eyes looked back at us.

Mitsinjo Night Walk.  The Mitsinjo Reserve Night Walk is one of the best ways to see all types of nocturnal creatures. Our guide led us through the dark jungle trail and along the roadside, pointing out numerous species of chameleon. We saw a sleeping baby Parsons Chameleon, a Brown Leaf Chameleon and a Nose Horn Chameleon, the smallest species of chameleon. Mouse Lemurs ran across and mated on tree branches. Tree frogs sat on leaves. Spiders lurked in webs, a praying mantis hunted for prey and a large moth displayed into open wings.

Mantadia National Park

Mantadia National Park is a vast area of primary rainforest with tropical vegetation and remote hiking trails. Multiple circuits lead through the park, offering opportunities to enjoy the untouched nature and watch for its illusive lemurs. 

Visiting Mantadia National Park. The Mantadia National Park Office is located 100m down the road from the Mitsinjo Reserve. Circuits within the park are located 2 hours further by car. The muddy road in between is only accessible with a 4x4 vehicle and driver. Visit the park office a day in advance or at 7am day of to book transportation, buy tickets and hire a guide. Round trip transportation can be arranged for around $60 USD. The park office also offers guided tours of the Analamazoatra Reserve, a popular spot to listen for and spot Indri Lemurs.

Tsakoka Circuit.  A three hour trail through the Mantadia National Park. It’s regarded by local guides as the best circuit to see varying species of the park’s difficult to spot lemurs. The muddy trail leads through the lush forest past moss covered and lichen spotted tree trunks. Twisting vines and aerial roots hanging from dense canopy. Large ferns and giant plants grown from the forest floor. The songs of Indri Lemurs echo through the forest while the growls and grunts of Black and White Ruffed Lemurs reverberate in the distance.

Black and White Ruffed Lemur.  The park is a habitat for the critically endangered Black and White Ruffed Lemur. They’re recognizable by their fluffy black and white appearance, large size and distinctive call. It took two hours to track them by their calls. Three ate fruits and hopped between branches in the high tree top canopy. 

General Park Information 

There is not much info on any of the park websites about Mitsinjo Reserve or Mantadia National Parkregarding basic information like opening hours, ticket prices or hiring guides. Below is some helpful advice based on our experience. 

• Opening Hours.  The parks are open daily between 7am-4pm. Arrive before 8am when the lemurs are most active. Stay close by the park offices for easier access.

• Prices.  Ticket prices vary depending on the circuits chosen and their length. Expect to pay 35K to 120K Ariary per circuit. There is a daily 5K Ariary Community Development Tax. Tickets can only be purchases with cash. 

• Guides.  Guides are required when visiting the parks and reserves. They can be hired at the park ticket offices. 

• Tipping.  Plan to tip drivers and guides 10% - 20% of the circuit price.

• Gear & Attire.  The park trails are often muddy, even during the dry season. Wear boots or sturdy shoes and bring a hiking pole for extra support. The temperature is cooler in the mornings and evening. Wear light removable layers while hiking. Bring a flashlight for night walks. 

Getting to Andasibe.  Andasibe is located between 3-4 hours from Antananarivo by car. Most hotels offer round trip transportation. There are also taxi stands and drivers available at the airport. Prices are very expensive regardless of the option you choose, often costing around $120 USD one way. 

Where to Stay in Andasibe

Soanala Hotel Andasibe. An eco-hotel with several A frame style bungalows built into the forested hillside of Andasibe. Its walking distance from the park entrances of the Mitsinjo Reserve, Analamazoatra Reserve and Mantadia National Park. Their restaurant offers complementary breakfast and well priced meals. Transportation to and from the airport in Antananarivo can be arranged for an additional fee. Reserve on Booking. 

Location Specifics

Language.  Malagasy and French are the two most widely spoken languages in Madagascar. English is very rarely spoken however several school children would often stop us to practice conversing. 

Cash vs Card.  Cash is king in Madagascar! The country runs on a cash based economy using the local currency, Ariary. Exchange USD or Euros at the airport or banks in town. ATMs are frequently out of cash and unreliable. Carry small bills for payments and tips. 

Local Excursions.  After booking an accommodation, most concierge will offer a suite of tours and excursions to book through them. 

For Next Time…

Madagascar is a remarkable country and one we would love to revisit! On our next trip here, we plan to stay in Belo sur Mer to experience of its local culture in depth and explore the dry tropical forest of Kirindy Mitea National Park. In Morondava, we’d spend a day touring the tidal Mangrove Forests. On the country’s east coast, we’d relax on the tropical island of Nosy Be. While in the region, we would visit other Indian Ocean Island Nations like Comoros, Mayotte, Reunion or Mauritius. 

The Seychelles

The Seychelles

The Seychelles is remote island nation and tropical getaway in the Indian Ocean. The archipelago is famed for its powdery white sand beaches, orange granite boulders, vibrant turquoise waters, lush landscapes and scenic hiking trails. We spent a little over a week, island hopping and beach bumming between the Inner Islands of Mahe, Praslin and La Digue. 

Mahe 

Mahe is a seahorse shaped island with lush jungleous mountains, massive granite boulders, white sand beaches and turquoise waters. It’s the Seychelles largest and most populous island, hosting the capital city, Victoria, and international airport. It’s the perfect entry point to the tropical paradise!

Mahe Beaches 

Anse Royale Beach.  A crescent shaped tan sand beach with a lengthy shoreline, aquamarine waters and a swimmable bay. Photogenic granite boulders flank the north side of the beach. Pockets of palms offer a respite from the radiant sun. An offshore reef protects the bay from strong waves. A gentle current flows from north to south along shore. Drift snorkel over fields of seagrass home to tropical fish, urchins, eels and sea cucumbers. 

Pro Tip.  If driving here, there is a free parking lot with about 30 spaces. Arrive by 9am to get a spot. 

Beau Vallon Beach.  A crescent shaped white sand beach with calm swimmable waters. It’s Mahe’s largest beach, stretching kilometers along the northwest coast. Come here to enjoy long walks on the beach, watch nightly sunsets and spot fruit bats fluttering between trees. Resorts and restaurants provide places to stay, eat and drink. Tour operators advertise boat trips to nearby islands and beaches. 

Mahe Sights 

Takamaka Rum Distillery.  Takamaka is the Seychelles only rum distillery and the archipelago’s most popular rum brand. They distill a series of rums from molasses and sugarcane including light, dark, aged, overproof and flavors infused with coconut and pineapple. The smell of molasses wafts around the property. Free tours are provided three times daily; no is reservation required. Tours last about an hour and offer glimpses inside the distillery, master blender’s workshop and museum. Finish the tour with a tasting of 8 different rum or with a cocktail at the bar. Mixologists stir and shake a range of rum cocktails. Try the Taka Dream and ZenZann. Order a shareable bites like croquettes, samosas or falafel from their food stand. 

Jardin du Roi Spice.  A historic garden with spices, medicinal plants, tropical fruit trees and endemic palms cultivated by the French colonizers of the Seychelles. Spend an hour walking through the trails, identifying trees and plants on a self guided tour using their map. Visit the tortoise pen with Giant Aldabra tortoises. Their restaurant offers scoops of homemade ice cream with flavors including nutmeg, vanilla, coconut and cinnamon.  

National Botanical Garden.  A lush and colorful botanical garden in Victoria featuring tropical plants, fragrant flowers, spice gardens, towering palms and giant Aldabra Tortoises. The scent of the Cannonball Tree flowers and plumerias wafts through the garden. The world’s largest coconut, the Coco de Mer, hangs from its palm trees. A pen houses dozens of Aldabra Tortoises, the world’s second largest species. Enter the pen to hand feed them greens as they slowly surround you.

Seychelles National Museum of History.  A history museum dedicated to the island’s discovery, settlement, colonial past, independence, ties to piracy, slavery and the spice trade. Its exhibits feature artifacts like treasures from sunken ships, antique maps, cannons and iron shackles. Cultural displays share stories of the island’s folklore, music and traditional homes. The museum occupies a French Creole style building that once served as bank, treasury, courthouse, telegraph office and governor’s office.

Copolia Trail.  A 1.4km trail leading through the dense jungle to a granite plateau with a panoramic views of the Mahe. The verdant and rugged trail ascends over exposed tree roots, past moss covered granite boulders and beneath Seychelles palms. The trail ends at a small ladder leading up to the exposed granite plateau. The clearing offering views of the island, its jungleous mountains and the urban center of Victoria. There’s even a patch of carnivorous pitcher plants. The trail is moderate hike, taking about an hour to reach the summit.

Good to Know.  Free parking is available along the roadside just before the ticket office. The trail opens at 8am for 100 SCR per person. 

Places to Eat & Drink on Mahe

Ocean Beach Restaurant.  An affordable takeaway near Beau Vallon Beach with flavorful curries, salads, noodles and rice dishes. Come here for the smoked fish salad and fish curry. 

Trader Vic’s.  A famed tiki bar and restaurant with locations in tropical destinations around the world. We stopped by for an original Mai Tai and a couple rum cocktails. 

Cafe 74.  A cafe with pastries, fruit bowls and different types of croque monsieur. Order an iced coffee and a spread of pastries for a picnic breakfast at Anse Royal. 

Where to Stay on Mahe

Maison Hibiscus Self Catering.  A cute apartment complex with fully equipped studios for rent. It’s an affordable option nearby Beau Vallon Beach on Mahe. We booked on Airbnb. 

Getting Around Mahe

Rental Car.  The best way to get around Mahe when short on time is by car. Doffay Car Rentalis an extremely well reviewed and affordable rental car agency. They offer pick up from the airport and drop off at locations across the island, including the ferry jetty. 

Victoria Car Park.  A parking lot in the city center of Victoria. The first hour is free. A 1 hour or half day parking pass is needed for any additional time. The pass can be purchased from Antigone Bookstore down the street for a 5 to 15 rupees (less than $1 USD) 

Praslin

Praslin is the postcard picture of a tropical paradise. The island is the second largest in the Seychelles, famed for its idyllic beaches, tropical forests and oceanfront resorts. 

Praslin Beaches 

Anse Lazio.  A stunning white sand beach with some of the most vibrant shades of turquoise and blue in the Indian Ocean. Large orange granite boulders flank both ends, offering quintessential views of the Seychellois shoreline. Catamarans and yachts are anchored off shore. Passing showers make way to colorful rainbows. The tree line offers plenty of places to relax in the shade and listen to the waves crashing on shore. Small hotels and take away restaurants offer lounges for rent, food and drinks. A sandy clearing on the west side is perfect for sunbathing during high tide. Beyond the western boulders is a secluded beach and hidden bar. 

Getting Here.  Take the bus to the Anse Boudin stop. The beach is a 20 minute walk from here.

Petite Anse Lazio.  A tiny white sand beach, flanked by smooth orange boulders and short leafy palm trees. It’s relatively secluded and only reachable via a trail from the eastern side of Anse Lazio. The trail leads uphill through palm thicket and over small boulders. Midway along the trail is a fork that leads to a scenic lookout of Anse Lazio. 

Cote d’Or Beach (Anse Volbert).  A lengthy white sand beach in Anse Volbert Village. Its shallow aquamarine waters stretch hundreds of meters into the ocean. Wade through them to an outcrop of orange granite boulders on the south end of the beach. Walk to towards the north end, stopping to pose with a photogenic palm tree leaning over the white sand. It’s a quiet and convenient area to stay. Small hotels, take away restaurants, grocery stores and tour operators line the beachfront road in the village.

Good to Know.  Be cautious of difficult to spot stingrays. Wear water shoes for protection. 

Anse Georgette.  A small and secluded white sand beach at the Lemuria Resort. There are a couple fruit, juice and cocktail vendors along the tree line. Order the coconut mixed with rum and garnished with a hibiscus flower! The currents can make it difficult to swim while the waves are excellent for body surfing. 

Good to Know.  The number of visitors is limited but not heavily enforced. Call a week in advance to reserve a spot. 

Getting Here. Take the bus to the Mont Plaisir stop. Check in at the Lemuria Resort and walk 20 minutes across the golf course to the beach. 

Praslin Sights

Fond Ferdinand Nature Reserve.  A lush nature reserve with trails leading through the island’s tropical palm forest. Spend a couple hours walking the trails and spotting wildlife like the Seychelles Day Gecko, Seychelles Black Parrot and Seychelles Fruit Bat. Trails meander uphill through an expansive grove of Coco de Mer Palms to the reserve’s lookout point. Views from its hilltop boulders peer across St Anne’s Bay towards the Inner Islands. The high winds ruffle the fronds of giant palms and surrounding plants. Before leaving, visit a pen with two giant Aldabra tortoises. 

Good to Know.  The park opens at 8:30am but staff will let you in starting at 8am. Bring insect repellant. 

Getting Here.  Take the bus to the Anse Consolation stop. The park entrance is a quick walk away from here.   

Pro Tip.  Buses only pass by every 1-2 hours on this side of the island. Ask the staff at the ticket office for the current bus schedule to plan your departure time accordingly. 

Places to Eat & Drink on Praslin

Leo’s Food.  A beachside takeaway at Côte d’Or Beach. Come here for their Hawaiian fish burger, curry prawns in rice and Takamaka rum & coke. 

Honesty Bar.  A hidden bar nestled in the jungle beyond the western boulders of Anse Lazio Beach. Come here for their Creole Punch made with three shots of Takamaka Rum and your choice of fruit juice. They have the best priced drinks on the beach! 

The Chill Grill.  A beach front takeaway restaurant at Anse Lazio Beach with a range of grilled and fried bites. Come here for their grilled fish and chips! 

Where to Stay on Praslin 

Mountain Lodge.  A two floor house nestled in the lush hillside above Côte d’Or Beach in Anse Volbert Village. The spacious house has two bedrooms, a full kitchen and spacious living area. An outdoor balcony offers views of the coast, perfect for enjoying with a morning coffee. The back patio has a grill for barbecuing and relaxing during the evenings. Reserve on Booking. 

Getting Around Praslin

Praslin Bus.  The public bus on Praslin is the easiest and cheapest way to get around the island. Bus stops are clearly marked on the pavement. Locals and bus drivers are kind and offer to help if unsure of how to get somewhere. Refer to the Praslin Bus Route. The time tables are out of date but the routes are still accurate. 

Good to Know.  It’s prohibited to bring luggage besides hand bags and totes onto the bus. Need to buy a refillable SPTC card to ride the buses. Fares cost 10 SCR. The card can be purchased from convenient stores around the Praslin Ferry Jetty when arriving on the island. We bought ours at Supermarket Kot Merilin. 

Taxis.  As buses don’t allow luggage onboard, taxis are the only option to and from the ferry jetty and most accommodations. Unfortunately, drivers know this and charge a steep price to get anywhere on the island. A single 10 minute ride can cost €25. 

La Digue

La Digue is a small and sleepy tropical island. It’s a picturesque paradise with white sand beaches, swaying palm trees, colorful flowers and iconic granite boulders. Bicycles are the main way of getting around though much of the island can be walked on foot. 

La Passe. The island’s main town. Its sandy cobblestone streets are flanked by lush palm trees and beachy buildings with hotels, tiny home stays, bike rentals, barbecue restaurants and bars. The ferry jetty welcomes new visitors and bids others bon voyage. 

La Digue Beaches & Boulders 

Anse Patates.  A small but idyllic Seychellois beach. Its white sand shore is dappled with shade from leaning palm trees. Dramatic granite boulders flank both sides of the beach. Cerulean waters and white capped waves crash onshore. A small area between two large boulders acts as a natural wave pool. The beach is best to visit during low tide and not the safest for swimming. 

Anse Severe.  A white sand beach with several beachfront shacks serving takeaway meals, fresh fruit juices and cocktails. Its views look across the Indian Ocean towards the nearby Inner Islands. Put on a pair of water shoes and wade out into the rocky shallows to spot sea creatures like rays, parrot fish and sea cucumber. Two Giant Aldabra tortoises lounge alongside sunbathers and stray dogs. 

Anse Source D'Argent.  A photogenic beach with large granite formations, leaning palm trees, soft white sand shores and turquoise hued waters. It’s easily one of the Seychelles most famous beaches. Arrive early to spend the day relaxing on shore and swimming in the vibrant waters. Fruit vendors welcome visitors with free coconuts!

Getting Here.  The beach officially opens at 8am. You have to pay to enter via L’Union Estate. Tickets cost 150 SCR per person. Walk through the estate and its spice gardens past Giant Union Rock and the Aldabra Tortoise pens to reach the scenic seaside beach trail.

Grand Anse & Petite Anse.  Two twin beaches on the south eastern coast of the island. Grand Anse is the larger of the two. Its shore is flanked by dramatic granite rock formations and boulders. The soft and cushiony white sand is perfect for laying out or picnicking. Petite Anse is the smaller of the two beaches, though still sizable, and very similar in scenery. It’s reachable via a trail on the north side of Grand Anse, taking 10 minutes to reach. 

Good to Know.  The waves and currents make it too dangerous to swim. Beware of Portuguese Man of Wars or Bluebottles that wash up onshore. 

Anse Coco.  A remote crescent shaped white sand beach on the south eastern side of the island. Enter the beach on the south end near Coco Bar. There is a protected cove flanked by large boulders at the north end, perfect for sunbathing and swimming. The currents and waves make the remainder of the beach too dangerous for swimming. 

Getting Here.  Anse Coco is reachable via a clearly marked trail leading from the south side of Petite Anse. The tail leads through the forest and over rocks. Keep an eye out for geckos, salamanders, crabs and giant millipedes. It takes between 20-30 minutes to reach. 

Caiman Beach.  A small but swimmable beach protected by rocks. It’s reachable from Anse Coco or by hiking the Marcus Trail at the Coast. There is a small restaurant serving barbecue, fruit juices and cocktails. Beyond the bar are two large tide pools, perfect for lounging in the refreshing waters. 

Marcus Trail at the Coast.  A coastal nature trail on the eastern tip of the island. It leads from the “end of the road” near Anse Fourmis to the Caiman Beach Bar. You have to climb over boulders, through crevices, across platforms and makeshift stairs. Yellow painted arrows help point the correct direction. The trial continues onwards towards Anse Coco, Petite Anse and Grand Anse. 

Places to Eat & Drink on La Digue

Bikini Bottom.  A beach front takeaway at Anse Severe. Come here for a Slow Turtle Cider and admire the Giant Aldabra Tortoises at sunset. 

Rey & Josh Takeaway.  A very affordable Seychellois style takeaway with a small daily menu. Come here for the fish fillet with creole sauce and the fish curry. 

Fruita Cabana Bar.  A rasta themed beachfront fruit stand with vibey music at Anse Source D'Argent. They offer fresh fruit juices, coconuts and iced coffees. Try the coconut candy, fresh coconut garnished with sugar and lime juice!

Ton Greg’s Pizzeria.  A local spot with well sized wood fired pizzas. Try their Seychellois pizza made with smoked fish and red onions.

Coco Bar.  A beachfront takeaway at Coco Beach offering fresh fruit juices and a barbecue lunch buffet. It’s renowned across the island for its delicious selections! They served whole grilled fish, grilled fish steaks, chicken coconut curry, chow main, white rice and salad. Even despite its remote location, dozens of people flock here around noon for a plate. 

Caiman Beach Bar.  A seaside bar on eastern tip of the island. It’s reachable after a 20 minute hike from Coco Beach or 30 minute hike along the Marcus Trail at the Coast. They serve barbecue lunch, crush juices and rum cocktails. Prices here are quite expensive. 

Chez Jules Restaurant.  A Creole restaurant overlooking the island’s eastern coast. They serve Seychellois dishes, seafood, mocktails and Takamaka rum cocktails. We stopped in for drinks while walking around the island. Try the mango daiquiri and Taka Love, a rum and coconut concoction. 

Where to Stay in La Digue

Pension Hibiscus.  A “self catering” style hotel with individual apartment rentals in La Passe. Each unit has a fullt equipped kitchen, private restroom, cozy bedroom and an outdoor patio. It’s within walking distance to the ferry jetty, beaches, grocery stores, restaurants and bars. Reserve on Booking. 

Getting Around La Digue 

La Digue is a very small island, easily navigable on foot, by bike or golf cart. Most hotels provide bikes for guests to use while a few rental agencies near the La Passe ferry terminal rent golf carts and bikes by the day. 

Getting Between Islands

Inner Island Ferries.  Ferries are the best way to get between the Seychelles Inner Islands of Mahe, Prasllin and La Digue. Cat Cocos is the main company operating routes between the islands. Book tickets with Sey Ferry online in advance to secure a seat.

Good to Know.  Do not underestimate the rough seas. Many people began experiencing sea sickness about 20 minutes into the hour long voyage.

Seychelles on a Budget

The Seychelles can be a notoriously expensive destination yet easily visited on a budget. We spent 8 days here, maximizing beach time and stretching our wallet. 

Fruit Stands.  Beaches and roadsides are often dotted with fruit vendors selling freshly harvested tropical fruits. Many offer pressed juices or blended smoothies.

Public Beaches.  The Seychelles are world famous for their pristine beaches. Maximize time exploring the free public beaches. Bring your own snacks and drinks to save money.

Self Catering Stays.  Self Catering Stays refer to any type of guest house or vacation rental with a kitchen. They’re often the most affordable places to stay with space to cook your own meals. 

Take Aways.  If eating out, avoid the expensive restaurants and visit the take aways. They’re small roadside kiosks or food trucks offering affordable meals taken to go. They’re extremely popular with locals and budget travelers. Meals typically cost 100-150 rupee. 

Fish Markets.  Fishing is one of the Seychelles main businesses. Small fish markets are common along the coastal roads with fishermen selling the daily catch and barbecuing your selections for fraction of a restaurant price.

Seychellois Cuisine 

Slow Turtle Cider.  An alcoholic apple cider local to the Seychelles.

Creole Curry.  A mix of spices, tomatoes, onions, garlic, curry leaves, fish and sometimes coconut. 

Smoked Fish Salad.  Smoked fish served with mangos and papaya. 

Grilled Fish.  Red snapper, barracuda or parrot fish grilled over coconut husks. 

Ladob.  Plantain and sweet potatoes boiled with coconut milk, sugar, nutmeg and vanilla. It can be made savory by adding fish. 

Breadfruit. Try it cooked over an open flame, fried, mashed or as chips 

Satini.  A cooked mixture of green papaya and mango cooked with fish and coconut. 

Coconut Candy.  A halved coconut with its meat sliced into bite size pieces and garnished with sugar and lime. Order it from a beachside fruit stand. 

Location Specifics

When to Visit.  We visited the Seychelles in late August, during the peak of the dry season. Expect a mixture of sun, clouds and rain. Plan your beach days and outdoor activities accordingly. 

Language.  Creole, French and English are the three most commonly spoken languages across the Seychelles. Locals are more than happy to talk with visitors, provide recommendations and offer directions. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit card is accepted almost everywhere across the Seychelles. Carry some Seychelles Rupees for time when card machines are down or when buying from small roadside vendors.

Sand Flies.  Sand flies are present on many of the beaches, often landing and crawling around on you while lying out. Thankfully they don’t bite but can become quite the annoyance. 

Mosquitos.  Bring insect repellant. Mosquitos are ever present across the Seychelles, especially in the more jungelous areas and at night.

For Next Time… 

The next time we visit the Seychelles, we plan to continue island hopping and visit a few nearby locations we missed on this trip. 

Silhouette Island.  A large but mostly uninhabited island covered in tropical forest with hiking trails and secluded beaches. 

Curieuse Island.  An island home to Giant Aldabra Tortoises, Coco de Mer Palms, white sand beaches and sea turtles. It’s reachable from Praslin on many island tours. 

St Pierre Island.  A tiny uninhabited island off the coast from Praslin with granite rock formations, palm trees and coral reefs. It’s a popular snorkeling spot. 

Felicite, Coco Island, Grad Soeur & Petitie Soeur.  A grouping of tiny tree covered islands surrounded by underwater marine life and snorkeling areas. 

Zanzibar, Tanzania

Zanzibar, Tanzania

Zanzibar is an exotic island off the coast of mainland Tanzania in the Indian Ocean. It’s famed for its white sand beaches, turquoise waters and historic spice trade. History lives on in the narrow alleyways, markets and cultural sights of Stone Town. Maasai tribesmen sell beaded accessories and perform cultural dances. Swahili phrases like Hakuna Matata (no worries) and Pole Pole (slowly slowly) are the local way of life. We spent a week on the island, splitting out time between Stone Town and the beach towns of Kendwa and Nungwi. 

Stone Town

Stone Town is the historic district of Zanzibar City. Its narrow streets and winding alleyways meander between landmark buildings, former sultanate palaces and crumbling ruins. Stained glass windows, wooden balconies and ornately carved doors decorate their tan facades. Tropical plants and palm trees grow from small gardens and roadsides. Stray cats roam freely, often patrolling unoccupied stoops. Local merchants sell jewelry, spices, ebony artifacts, safari style paintings and beaded decorations. It’s a small district but easy to get lost in, making its narrow walkways even more enchanting. 

Stone Town Historical Sights 

The Old Fort.  An Arab style fort built to defend Zanzibar during the sultanate’s rule. Its sand colored walls, curved facade and rounded battlements are characteristic of historic forts built in Oman. The inside of the fort hosts an outdoor amphitheater with regular musical performances as well as a couple dozen craft and souvenir shops. A tourist offices advertise well priced tours, transfers and cooking classes. 

Slave Market Museum.  Stone Town was one of the main port cities used during the East African Slave Trade. The town’s former slave market was a sight of horrors. A museum recounts the history of the slave trade from its Portuguese colonial beginnings to expansion by the Omani sultanate and eventual abolition by the British. A church was built over the location of the slave market. Its wiping post and two former cells remain as a reminder of the period’s atrocities. Outside of the church is a sobering monument of enslaved Africans with iron chains around their necks. 

Good to Know.  The museum requires a guide to enter. One can be hired at the gate outside of the museum for a gratuity. Our guide shared in depth information of the history of the slave trade in Stone Town and the market’s horrific history. 

The Royal Cemetery.  A cemetery and museum dedicated to the generations of sultans that ruled Zanzibar until the island’s independence. A museum curator led us through the small exhibit, recounting the history and lineage of the sultans. We visited the cemetery where most of the them and their descendants are buried. Each grave sight is simple, a white plate red rectangle surrounds each gravel covered plot.

Good to Know.  Both of the neighboring sultan’s palaces, The People’s Palace and House of Wonders were closed for renovations.  

The Old Dispensary.  One of Stone Town’s best preserved historic buildings. Its ornate facade is decorated in three levels of intricately carved wooden balconies. Its teal color and location along the waterfront allow it to stand out.  

Stone Town Coastal Sights 

Stone Town Waterfront & Harbor.  The waterfront of Stone Town is lined with historic buildings, palm lined walkways and a harbor dotted with anchored tour and fishing boats. 

Forodhani Park.  A lush waterfront park with a palm lined walkways, flowering trees and views of Stone Town’s harbor. Locals guides advertise walking tours while boat captains offer day trips to neighboring islands. Small kiosks offer light bites and drinks while the park comes to life at night for an evening street food market. 

Shangani Public Beach.  A yellow sand beach hooking around the western tip of Stone Town. It’s popular for sunsets, boat tours and to watch locals play beach football. Multiple luxury hotels have restaurants and pools looking out over the beach.

Prison Island.  A small island off the coast of Zanzibar famed for its Aldabra Tortoise Sanctuary and historic ruins. The giant and slow moving tortoises roam in large pens. They range from two weeks to over two centuries old! Their shells are marked with red and blue numbers noting their age and gender. Vibrant peacocks strut around the island’s trails. The bright blue surrounding water are home to clusters of spiky sea urchins and colorful starfish. The island is named after a prison built by the Omani sultans and later used as a quarantine camp by the British. The prison is now used as a historical exhibit for Zanzibar with shops, a restaurant and bar. 

Getting Here.  Boat captains leave from the beach in front of the Zanzibar Ferry Terminal. They charge $20 for a private boat and round trip transfer to Prison Island. The boat ride takes about 20 minutes.

Entrance Fees.  There is a small port fee of a few dollars and separate entrance fee to visit the tortoise sanctuary. 

The Island Of Spice 

Zanzibar is known as The Island of Spice. Its long history of spice cultivation has influenced the island’s culture, identity and cuisine. Spice permeates throughout the flavors and aromas of local cuisine, coffees and markets. One of the best ways to experience the spices are at the source, spice farms. 

Kizimbani Spice Farm.  A spice farm offering a glimpse into the wide array of spices and fruits grown on Zanzibar. A guide led us through gardens with flowers, fruits, plants and vines used to produce different spices like cardamom, peppercorn, clove, lemongrass, nutmeg, ginger, turmeric, galangal, cocoa, cinnamon (bark and root), vanilla and curry leaf. A spice hunter followed us, climbing trees, picking leaves and digging up roots to harvest raw spices as examples. At the end of the tour, we were adorned in palm leaf woven bracelets, neck ties and hats. Roadside vendors sell packets of ground spices, tea and coffee as well as soaps, perfumes and oils. Visit a fruit stand to taste a cornucopia of fruits grown on the island including grapefruit, orange, cucumber, passion fruit, avocado, mango, jackfruit, watermelon, papaya, pineapple and starfruit.

Getting Here.  Hire a driver along the promenade for $30 USD round trip. No reservation is needed ahead of time. You’ll be paired with a guide and spice picker for free at the farm. The tour is free however guides operate on tips. 

Shop the Markets & Bazaars 

Darajani Bazaar.  A small but robust market under covered alleyways and historic sheds. Merchants sell colorful packages of ground spices, spice blends, vanilla beans, teas and coffees. Vendors display piles of tropical fruits, fresh vegetables and leafy greens on tables. Butchers prepare cuts of meat while fish mongers filet the morning’s catch. Shop keepers sell traditional woven baskets. Women bake stacks of aromatic flatbreads on a charcoal burning skillets. We purchased groceries for the week in addition to a refreshed supply is spices, coffees and teas. 

Pro Tip.  Visit in the mid morning. Prices are fare but like with all markets, haggle and negotiate for a better deal. 

Forodhani Night Food Market.  A nightly food market held in Forodhani Park. Charismatic chefs lure in customers with their persistence and genuinely tasty street food. Tables are covered in skewers of meat, seafood, starchy vegetables and flatbreads, all cooked over charcoal grills. Some chefs prepare local specialties like Urogo and Zanzibar Pizza. Juice vendors press sugarcane and ginger into a sweet blend. Shawarma carts broil and shave vertical rotisseries of meat. We came here for dinner two nights, filling up on a variety of street food. 

• Urojo.  A Tanzanian street food soup made with a savory and sweet blend of spices, potatoes, crispy fried chickpea fritters and cassava shavings. It’s usually vegetarian by default.

• Zanzibar Pizza.  A thin dough wrapped around a variety of savory or sweet fillings and griddled like a pancake until cooked. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Zanzibar Coffee House.  A hotel cafe with spiced local specialties. Come here for their spice coffee made with Zanzibar spices, muesli with nuts and dates or pastries like cinnamon raisin rolls and date squares. 

Out of Afrika.  A touristy yet vibey restaurant along Stone Town’s waterfront promenade with a second floor balcony. The menu offers seafood and fruit dishes like watermelon gazpacho, pumpkin soups with coconut and the grilled sesame-crusted tuna salad. Try the Swahili cocktails like the Zanzibar spice punch or coriander and chili margarita 

Secret Garden.  A cocktail bar and restaurant in the open air ruins of a historic Stone Town building. Crumbling plastered walls are covered in plants and vines. Potted palm trees spaced between tables and chairs in front of a stage. Come here for the live music and hibiscus cocktails! 

Mama Mia Gelato Italiano.  A small gelato chain local to Zanzibar with classic and tropical flavors. They the cinnamon, vanilla and coconut.  

Beach House Restaurant & Bar.  A beautiful beach from restaurant with a large outdoor patio overlooking the Indian Ocean. Come here for sunset cocktails and live music. 

Kendwa & Nungwi

Kendwa & Nungwi are two beach towns on the northern tip of Zanzibar. They’re popular destinations with lengthy white sand beaches, swimmable turquoise waters and beachfront resorts. Restaurants serve Swahili cuisine and seafood dishes paired with local beers. Galleries and shops sell Maasai textiles, beaded jewelry, paintings and ebony figurines. Tour operators provide snorkeling excursions and sunset dhow boat cruises. 

Kendwa Beach.  Kendwa Beach is one of the prettiest beaches on Zanzibar! Its wide white sand shore meets the calming turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean. Several beachfront resorts and restaurants offer umbrellas and beach lounges to paying customers. Maasai tribesmen walk the beach, selling beaded jewelry, posing for photos and saying Jambo (hello) to passersby. 

Kendwa Beach Gallery.  Kendwa Beach connects to Nungwi Beach during low tide. The rock cliffs between become an art gallery with hundreds of animal and Massai paintings. 

Nungwi Beach.  One of Zanzibar’s largest and most commercial beaches. Its white sand shore is lined with swimming areas, resorts, restaurants, souvenir shops and tour operators. The coast wraps around the island’s northern point making it perfect for long walks on the beach.

Good to Know. Beach vendors can be more aggressive in Nungwi than in Kendwa. 

Coastal Excursions 

Mnemba Atoll Snorkel Tour.  The Mnemba Atoll is coastal formation with shallow sandbars, coral reefs and a singular private island. Its aquamarine waters are home to starfish, dolphins and tropical fish. Speed boats ferry passengers from Nungwi to the atoll, stopping to spot dolphins along the way. A small pod porpoised above the water as snorkelers jumping in to swim along. 

Mnemba Atoll Sand Bar.  During low tide, large sandbars form around the Mnemba Atoll’s perimeter. Hundreds of boats moor in the shallows as sunbathers relax and walk along on the temporary white sand beaches. Small reefs offer places to snorkel and spot tropical fish, the occasional starfish, swaying anemone and seagrasses. We booked ahead of time online with Langentours on Get Your Guide. The tour can be booked cheaper in person from any of the beach vendors. 

Good to Know.  Please do not remove the starfish from the water or touch them. It will seriously harm them. 

Nungwi Sunset Dhow Cruise.  Dhow boats are a traditional sailing vessel used by Zanzibar’s fishermen and spice merchants. The wooden ships are characterized by their triangular canvas sail hoisted from a singular mast. They have become a quintessential part of island’s cultural identity and heritage. Captains offer nightly sunset cruises from Nungwi and Kendwa on these unique ships. Joined by the crew, a live band and other passengers, we sailed the coastal waters for over 2 hours. The band sang in Swahili and performed using makeshift instruments during the voyage. The crew prepared fresh fruits, mixed cocktails and sold beverages and snacks. We booked ahead of time online with Uforo Tour and Travel on Get Your Guide. The tour can be booked cheaper in person from any of the beach vendors. 

Pro Tip.  Bring a sweater or jacket if it’s a cloudy day. It can get chilly onboard. 

Places to Eat & Drink

ZaVa Nungwi.  A smaller beachfront restaurant with local dishes, beach lounges and happy hour cocktails. We came here for afternoon beers overlooking the Indian Ocean then returned for dinner and happy hour. Try whole grilled white snapper, fish burger and Dawa cocktail. 

Sunset Kendwa.  A popular beach front restaurant and resort at Kendwa Beach. We stopped in for their daily happy hour, sipping on $6 cocktails. 

Mococo Beach Villa.  A quiet beachfront restaurant with beach lounges under thatched umbrellas and palm trees. Come here for coffees, cocktails and light bites. 

Zanzibar Cuisine 

Seafood.  Fresh caught fish is a common aspect of the cuisine on Zanzibar. A popular preparation is a whole fish grilled or fried. 

Pilau.  A hearty and flavorful “one pot” rice dish made with aromatic spices, onions, tomatoes, potatoes and a protein like beef, chicken or soy. 

Sambusa.  A common street food snack across Zanzibar brought over by Indian influences. The dough packets are stuffed with spices, potatoes and peas.

Curry.  A common spice used to make savory stews and dishes made with meat, seafood or vegetables. 

Chapati.  A type of roti used to scoop stews and curries by hand. 

Kachumbari.  A salad made with chopped tomatoes, red onions and chili peppers. 

Sugar Cane.  Sugar cane is grown across the island. Street food vendors press it into juice or chop it into bite size pieces. Try it press with gineger!

Dawa.  A commonly served local cocktail made with konyagi, lime juice, honey and tonic water. 

Where to Stay

Lofihouse.  A small and simple apartment with two private rooms in Stone Town’s historic center. Its has a communal kitchen and laundry machine for guests. Reserve on Booking.

Kendwa Bungalow.  A cute bungalow on a semi secluded property in Kendwa. It has a shared kitchen, outdoor dining room and private suite. It’s located about 15 minutes in foot from the beach. Book on Airbnb. 

Location Specifics

Mandatory Inbound Travel Insurance.  The semi autonomous government of Zanzibar requires all foreign visitors or purchase state sponsored travel insurance. This is regardless of any private travel insurance you may have while visiting the island. It’s a classic scam but they won’t let you enter without it. Purchase on the official government site, Visit Zanzibar, before of when arriving. 

Tours & Activities.  Book tours and activities in person and negotiate with local guides for the best prices. Guides frequently approach visitors offering a range of experiences including island tours, spice farm tours, walking tours and taxis. The tourist office at the Old Fort advertises well priced tours, transfers and cooking classes. 

When to Visit.  We visited in mid August, during Zanzibar’s peak season, coinciding with the dry season. The time of year is typically sunny and warm, with temperatures around 80F by day and 70F by night. Strangely, it was overcast most days with light rain in Nungwi and Kendwa after 11am.

Cash vs Card.  Carry cash! Most businesses only accept cash, either Tanzanian Shillings or US Dollars. No one will accept US Dollars over 10 years old or with tears and writing on them. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Tanzanian laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Language.  English, Italian and Swahili are commonly spoken by many people in Zanzibar. 

Swahili Words & Phrases 

Swahili is the local language in Zanzibar. We learned several basic words and phrases during our travels here. 

• Jambo. A formal greeting meaning hello. 

• Mambo.  An informal greeting meaning hello or how are you?

• Poa or Poa Poa. A common response to Mambo, meaning good or well. 

• Habari Asubuhi.Good morning. 

• Lala Salama.  Good night or sleep well.

• Kwa Heri.  Goodbye. 

• Asante.  Thank you. 

• Asante Sana.  Thank you very much. 

• Karibu.  Welcome or you’re welcome.

• Hakuna Matata.  The phrase made world famous by the Lion King. It’s a real Swahili phrase meaning no worries or no problems.

• Pole Pole.  A phrase meaning “slowly, slowly” or slow down. It’s a common expression on the island. 

Getting Around 

On Foot.  The historic center of Stone Town is very walkable and easily the best way to see the city’s sights and experience its culture. Plan to wander the maze-like streets and get lost.  

By Taxi.  Hire a taxi driver from Stone Town to Kendwa or Nungwi. Drivers wait along the Mizingani Road promenade. The transfer takes about 1 hour 30 minutes. Don’t pay more than $40 USD. 

Tuk Tuk.  The small three wheeled vehicles are a popular way of covering short distances in Stone Town and between Kendwa and Nungwi. Prices are cheap, costing no more than 10K shillings ($4 USD).

Elsewhere in Tanzania 

We spent four weeks traveling across Tanzania. The country is a remarkable destination for adventure seekers, nature lovers and cultural enthusiasts. Hike to the summit of Africa’s tallest mountain, Mt. Kilimanjaro or explore the country’s vast national parks and wildlife on a Tanzanian Safari.

For Next Time…

One week in Zanzibar was not nearly enough time to enjoy this Indian Ocean paradise. When we return, we plan to explore the forests in the island’s interior and other nearby islands. 

Jozani Forest.  A tropical forest in the south of the island with rainforest, mangroves and coastal ecosystems. It’s home to chameleons, dolphins and colobus monkeys. 

Pemba Island.  A large island apart of the Zanzibar archipelago. It’s famed for its coral reefs, abundant marine life, white sand beaches, tropical forests and spice farms. 

Summiting Mt. Kilimanjaro

Africa’s Tallest Mountain

Mt. Kilimanjaro is Africa’s tallest mountain and one of the world’s Seven Summits. The highest point, Uhuru Peak, tops out at 5,895 meters or 19,341 feet above sea level. While difficult to hike, it’s considered a “walking mountain,” as it doesn’t require specialized equipment or experience to summit. We spent 7 days hiking the Lemosho Route, a scenic route with a higher success rate than others. 

The Lemosho Route 

The Lemosho Route is a multi-day trek to the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro. It’s very scenic, leading through picturesque landscapes and all of the mountain’s climate zones. The summit becomes visibly closer each day of the hike, offering rewarding views. The Lemosho Route is best for slowly acclimating to the increases in altitude. It takes 8 days but can be completed in 6 or 7 days, depending on speed and acclimatization. The route has an elevation gain of 3,795 meters (12,450 feet) to reach the summit. It covers a distance of 48km (30 miles) to the Uhuru Peak. 

Preparation

The day prior to beginning our Mt. Kilimanjaro hike gave us time to prepare for the adventure of a lifetime. We were introduced to our guide who briefed us on the week ahead and inspected our gear. He brought us to RRM Outdoor Rental Equipment Stores to rent all missing gear needed for the hike. Afterwards, we went shopping for snacks at the Rafiki Supermarketand purchased Diamox from the Mount Kibo Pharmacy. We spent the evening relaxing at our hotel and sipping on a Kilimanjaro Lager as a toast to the upcoming trek!

Day One

Introductions.  The first day of our hike to the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro began with an introduction to the crew that would be accompanying and supporting us over the week ahead. Our guide introduced us to the assistant guide, the cook and team of 10 porters! They sang the Kilimanjaro Song, Jambo Bwana, to warmly welcome us. We later heard it countless times at camps and along the trail to the summit. 

Lemosho Gate.  The crew shuttled us to the Lemosho Gate for the official start of our hike. In route, we passed through The Cultivation Zone, one of five climate zones on the mountain, characterized by hilly fields of hardy crops and pine trees. The gate marks the start of the Lemosho Route, beginning at an elevation of 2,100 meters (6,890 feet). The first 7km leads through the Vegetation Zone to the Mti Mkubwa Camp. 

The Vegetation Zone.  The Vegetation Zone is the second of five climate zones on the mountain. We hiked two hours through its verdant cloud forest and foggy pathways to reach the route’s first camp.

Mti Mkubwa Camp.  A small forest clearing surrounded by dense trees inhabited by wild monkeys. It sits at a relatively low elevation of 2,650 meters (8,695 feet). We met our crew here for our first night on the mountain. They set up our tent and outfitted it with a small dining nook stocked with teas, coffee, spreads and snacks. The cook served us the first of many feasts to come. The meal included cucumber soup, avocado salad, fried potatoes and fish makange. We played cards before bed, waking up in the middle of the night to see the starry arms of the Milky Way stretching across the sky.  

Day Two

An Early Start.  The day began with an early start before the sunrise. The crew prepared “bed tea,” hot water for washing and a breakfast spread comprised of porridge, crepes, omelettes and toast. Soon after, we continued our hike through the Vegetation Zone, passing moss covered trees with colobus monkeys jumping between their branches.

The Moorland Zone.  The trail led into, The Moorland Zone, the third of five climate zones on the mountain. It’s characterized by low lying bushes, dry grasses, flowering plants and small boulders. The open and dusty trail revealed scenic panoramas of the landscape and distant views of Kilimanjaro’s snow capped peak. We hiked 7km over 4 hours until reaching the Shira 1 Camp. 

Shira 1 Camp.  The first camp on the Shira Plateau, a relatively flat expanse of The Moorland Zone. The camp sits at a moderate elevation of 3,610 meters (11,844 feet). We arrived as the porters finished setting up our tent. Others arrived with large sacs balanced on their heads and packs slung over the shoulders. Ravens flew around us as we enjoyed the scenic views and ate vegetable pasta for lunch. 

Back On the Trail.  With plenty of energy and daylight left, we continued hiking across The Moorland Zone. The dusty trail lead us 10km further across the Shira Plateau to the Shira 2 Camp. We arrived a day ahead of schedule, having trekked 17km over the course of the day. Mt. Kilimanjaro’s icy peak grew noticeably closer. 

Shira 2 Camp.  A camp at the opposite end of the Shira Plateau at an elevation of 3,850 meters (12,631 feet). Colorful tents stood between boulders and bushes, rattled by strong winds of the open terrain. The sunset cast an amber glow across the landscape as the cold of night set in. We hunkered down inside of our tent, resting and waiting for dinner. The cook served us leek soup, coconut milk stewed beans and rice. We celebrated the success of the day with a packet of m&ms. 

Medical Evaluations.  With the increased elevation, our guides began performing nightly medical evaluations. They checked our heart rate, blood oxygen levels and general wellbeing. 

Day Three

A Rough Night.  No one slept well during the previous night. The cold and wind kept us and our crew awake more than half of the evening. The warmth of the sun rose spread across the Shira Plateau, melting the frost as we began day three. 

The Alpine Desert Zone.  The trail lead higher in elevation to The Alpine Desert Zone, the fourth of five climate zones on the mountain. The terrain was dry, rocky and barren with little to no vegetation. We spotted a tiny Four Striped Grass Mouse scurrying between the rocks. The temperate became colder and the air noticeably thinner. The trail lead steeply uphill to The Lava Tower.

The Lava Tower.  A jagged geological formation created by hardened lava that cooled inside a now eroded volcanic vent. At 4,600 meters (15,092 feet), it’s a key feature along the Lemosho Route and a high altitude campsite. Getting here was difficult due to the increased elevation, though necessary for acclimating.

A Temporary Descent.  The trail led us on a temporary descent from The Lava Tower, through The Alpine Desert and back into The Moorland. The path followed a partially frozen stream, past small waterfalls and into progressively lusher terrain. Colorful lichens covered boulders, green bushes sprouted from the hillside and flowers added color to the landscape. A grove of Giant Groundsels, grew from the riverside. They’re alien-like trees with a central trunk and bushy arms topped with green leafy flourish. 

Baranco Camp.  The trail led to the Baranco Camp, situated at an elevation of 3,900 meters (12,795 feet). It’s one of the largest camps on the mountain and a meeting point for multiple routes. A nomadic village of colorful tents, enthusiastic crews and optimistic hikers sprawl across the landscape. A sea of clouds parted to reveal the town of Moshi 3,200 meters (10,500 feet) below. We rested during the afternoon before dinner. The cook prepared Ndzi, a Tanzanian vegetable stew with plantains, sweet potato, green beans and onions served alongside Chapatti, an East African flatbread.

Day Four

The Baranco Wall.  The trail begins with a hike up the Baranco Wall, a steep rocky ridge just beyond the Baranco Camp. Hikers and their crews scale its 257 meter (843 feet) tall face. While steep, it doesn’t require any specialty equipment, only care and patience. The top of the wall has panoramic views of Mt. Kilimanjaro’s ice capped summit, the cloud covered lowlands and distant silhouette of the Meru Volcano. The trail continues 6km further through a series of scenic valleys to The Karanga Camp. 

The Karanga Camp.  The final camp before Mt. Kilimanjaro’s Base Camp. It resides at 3,995 meters (13,107 feet), similar in elevation to the past two camps. Us and our crew reached the camp by the early afternoon. We walked up the camp’s ridge to help with further with the acclimatization. The exposed location down slope from the glacial summit makes the camp cold, especially at nighttime. 

Pro Tip.  Stuff tomorrow’s clothes inside your sleeping bag at night to warm up before changing in the morning. Thanks mom! 

Day Five

The Hike to Base Camp.  Day 5 began with our assent to The Barafu Camp, Mt. Kilimanjaro’s Base Camp. We hiked 4km across the dry and aired terrain of The Alpine Desert. Slate rocks creaked like broken pottery beneath our feet. The snow covered peak of Mt. Kilimanjaro towered ahead. We reached the camp four hours later.

Barafu Camp.  Barafu translates to “Ice” in Swahili. It’s a cold place, located at an elevation of 4,673 meters (15,331 feet). Tents covered the rugged mountain side. We sat outside of ours, peering across the mountain’s saddle towards the jagged Mawenzi Peak, the third highest in Africa. The cook prepared vegetable soup, fried fish and savory potato pastries stuffed with veggies for lunch. We spent the remainder of the afternoon and evening relaxing and acclimating. 

Day Six

Midnight Hike to The Summit.  The hike to the summit began at midnight. Our guides led us uphill along steep winding trails through the dark of night. Rocks, dust and fine gravel crunched beneath our feet. The stars spanned the night sky, twinkling brightly overhead. Ice and snow banks appeared the further we hiked. Guide erupted into spontaneous songs offering encouragement to those along the trail. 

The Arctic Zone.  The trek to the summit brought us into The Arctic Zone, the fifth of five climate zones on the mountain. It’s characterized by subzero temperatures, snow covered terrain and icy glaciers. 

Stella Point.  Daylight began to break 6 hours into our hike. The scarlet hued sunrise cast a warm glow over the cold and barren landscape. It was at the same time that we reached Stella Point, a lower peak below the main summit. It stands at 5,756 meters (18,885 feet). 

The Trail to the Summit.  The trail continued one hour past Stella Point. Though relatively flat, the distance in between was the treacherous for many hikers suffering altitude sickness. Black lava rocks and glossy obsidian contrasted the white Arctic landscape. Icy pinnacles flanked the trail, glaciers hugged the slopes and snow blanketed the crater. 

Uhuru Peak.  Mt. Kilimanjaro is Africa’s tallest mountain and one of the World’s Seven Summits. The highest point, tops out at 5,895 meters (19,341 feet) above sea level. After days of hiking, a congratulatory sign welcomed us to the summit! it was an overwhelming experience to reach. Tears were indeed shed. We celebrated with frozen candy bars and hot ginger tea. The mountain was surrounded by a sea of puffy white clouds. The shadow of Mt. Kilimanjaro cast across them. 

The Rapid Descent.  The guides limited us to 15 minutes at the summit due to the harsh environmental conditions. The rapid descent to the base camp took 3 hours. We napped and ate lunch before descending further into the Moorland Zone. The trail lead to the High Camp, located at 3,950 meters (12,960 feet), one hour and a half later. It was the perfect rest area but not our final camp. The descent continued into the Vegetation Zone. Porters passed us in both directions as we followed the rocky path to the Mweka Camp, located at an elevation of 3,100 meters (10,171 feet). We spent our last night camping on the mountain here. 

Day Seven

Crew Appreciation.  The final day began with a goodbye to our mountain crew. We met them after breakfast to express our gratitude and to distribute tips. 

The Rainforest Hike.  The last leg of our journey led us through the rainforest. Our guide led us along the muddy and slippery trail through the foggy forest. Moss covered trees, giant ferns and tiny orchids flanked the path. Monkeys hopped between tree branches as birds squawked in the canopy. It took 3 hours to reach the park gate. 

Certificates & Celebration.  Park rangers verified our successful hike to the summit and awarded us certificates recognizing the achievement. Our crew brought us back to our hotel in Moshi and presented them to us while singing the Kilimanjaro song, Jambo Bwana. We spent the afternoon relaxing and celebrating with a bottle of South African bubbly while overlooking the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro. 

Moshi, Tanzania

Moshi is a town at the base of Mt. Kilimanjaro and starting point for many multi-day hikes up the mountain. The town is home to tour operators, gear outfitters, pharmacies, grocery stores and hotels making it easy location for last minute gear and needs. 

Rede Tours & Safaris.  A well reviewed tour operator offering multi-day hiking trips to the summit Mt. Kilimanjaro. We booked the Unforgettable 8 Days Lemosho Route Trekking on Kilimanjaro with them prior to arriving in Moshi. They arranged every aspect of our hike including guides, porters, a cook and supplies. 

Rafiki Supermarket.  A chain grocery store with aisles of snacks and drinks. Come here to stock up on granola, dates, chocolates and chips prior to hiking. 

RRM Outdoor Rental Equipment Store.  An outdoor outfitter with all rental gear needed to hike Mt. Kilimanjaro. We rented several items needed to complete the hike at the recommendation of our guide. Cost can quickly add up so be sure you actually need everything being recommended. 

Mount Kibo Pharmacy.  One of the largest pharmacies in Moshi. They sell Diamox, a medication used to cope with AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) also known as altitude sickness. No prescription is needed and a weak supply costs less than $1. 

Where to Stay

The Belle View Inn Bed and Breakfast.  A small hotel with comfortable rooms, daily breakfast, luggage storage and transportation between the airport. We stayed here before and after our hike to Mt. Kilimanjaro. On a clear day, the peak of the mountain is visible from their second floor breakfast hut! Reserve on Booking.

Places to Eat & Drink 

Having some time in Moshi before and after our hike to the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro, we dined out at a couple local restaurants and a coffee house. 

Maembe Garden.  An elevated restaurant with Swahili cuisine and well made cocktails. We came here to celebrate after summiting Mt. Kilimanjaro. Try the veggies samosas and fish makange. To drink, order a Dawa, the local cocktail made with vodka, honey, lime and sugar. 

Aikama Organic Restaurant.  A restaurant in a commercial shopping center with Tanzanian and Swahili food. We each ordered the Fish Makange, a whole fried fish covered in a mixture of sautéed bell peppers and onions. It’s typically served with cardamom rice. 

SSOH Coffee Factory.  A cafe and roastery with house roasted Tanzanian coffee and artisanal madeleines.

Hiking Tips & Preparation 

Hiking Mt. Kilimanjaro requires little preparation outside of practice hikes and acquiring the correct gear. We came up with several tips to follow while on the mountain. 

Practice Hikes.  Practice half to full day hikes on weekends with some steep inclines at least one month prior to condition yourself. 

Support Network.  Hike the mountain with a group or someone you know. Having a support network while hiking goes a long way. Guides are also great hype-men along the way!

Stay Positive.  Believe in yourself and stay positive! Celebrate milestones with little rewards like the eating a chocolate when you reach the next camp or rest area. 

Stay Hydrated.  Dehydration is the largest concern when hiking. Bring or rent an CamelBak with capacity for 3 liters of water per day. Have guides refill them before hiking for the day. Drink ginger tea to open the airways. Avoid drinking alcohol. 

Pace Yourself.  The altitude and exhaustion can quickly added up. Hike a longer route, like the Lemosho Route, to spend more time acclimating to the high altitude. 

Dress Warm.  Temperatures at night and especially at the summit are below freezing. Plan to add layers the further you ascend and strip them off as you descend. 

Extreme UV.  Prepare for extreme UV radiation at high elevations. Wear sunblock during the day, protective lip balm and UV reflective sunglasses. 

Nighttime Noise.  The noise of the wind is enough to keep you up at night. Being ear plugs or noise canceling headphones to drown out sounds. 

Best Time of Year.  Hike during the dry season for the least chance of rain, snow and muddy trails. It’s colder during this time of year but is often the best time to hike Mt Kilimanjaro. The dry season lasts from July to October. We hiked in late July. 

Hygiene.  Basic squatting toilets are available at each campsite. Bring your own toilet paper and hand sanitizer. Guides often provide hot water and soap before meals. Some even offer scented hot towels. 

Cell Service. There is minimal cell service or network on the mountain. Plan to disconnect or use limited service to keep family and friends updated. 

Electricity.  There is no electricity on the mountain. Bring a high capacity power bank to keep devices charged. Keep phones on airplane and low power mode to conserve battery. Store phones and power banks in a warm location. 

Packing List 

Clothing 

• Thermal leggings or underwear 

• Thermal long sleeve shirts 

• Waterproof rain jacket & rain pants 

• Insulated winter coat 

• Insulated snow pants 

• Winter hat, gloves & scarf

• Wool sweaters 

• Thermal socks 

Gear 

• Hiking boots 

• Pair of hiking poles 

• Gators (to cover ankles from dust) 

• Headlamp & extra batteries 

• High capacity power bank

• Sunglasses 

• Sunblock 

• Lip balm with SPF

• CamelBak for water 

• Thermal water bottle for hot drinks 

• Hand and toe warmers 

• Toilet paper 

• Hand sanitizer

• Facial wipes 

• Diamox (altitude sickness medication) 

• Insulated sleeping bag 

• Backpack or Daypack 

• Pillow or neck cushion for sleeping 

• Hiking mattress(typically included) 

• Tent (typically included) 

Snacks 

• Trail mix or granola 

• Chocolates (m&ms & candy bar)

• Dried ginger candies 

• Peppermint hard candies 

• Ginger tea 

Costs & Tipping 

Hiking Mt. Kilimanjaro is expensive! Costs are not always clear when booking tours. Make sure to understand all costs and fees ahead of time. 

Costs & Fees.  We booked a “budget” hike for $1,500 USD per person. This covered entry permits, food and some equipment. An additional $700 USD per person was paid in person to cover crew wages. 

Tipping.  Providing gratuities is a standard practice and expected after hiking Mt. Kilimanjaro. Below is a breakdown of the expected amounts to pay per group. Individual tips will be less depending on group size, crew size and number of days hiking. Tips are given to the lead guide, announced and distributed on the last day of the hike. 

• Lead Guides:  $20-$25 per day 

• Assistant Guides:  $15-$20 per day 

• Cooks:  $10-$20 per day 

• Porters:  $8-$10 per day

• Specialty Porters (Waiter, Summit Porter, Toilet Porter): $10-$12 per day

Swahili Words & Phrases 

Swahili is the local language in Tanzania. We learned several basic words and phrases from our guides and porters while hiking Mt. Kilimanjaro.  

• Pole Pole.  Slowly slowly or take it easy. It’s the speed and theme on the mountain often repeated by guides, porters and trekkers. 

• Hakuna Matata.  The phrase made world famous by the Lion King. It’s a real Swahili phrase meaning no worries or no problems. It’s often used to let guides know you’re doing okay. 

• Jambo. A formal greeting meaning hello. 

• Mambo.  An informal greeting meaning hello or how are you?

• Poa or Poa Poa. A common response to Mambo, meaning good or well. 

• Habari Asubuhi.Good morning. 

• Lala Salama.  Good night or sleep well.

• Kwa Heri.  Goodbye. 

• Asante.  Thank you. 

• Asante Sana.  Thank you very much. 

• Karibu.  Welcome or you’re welcome.

Elsewhere in Tanzania 

We spent four weeks traveling across Tanzania. The country is a remarkable destination for adventure seekers, nature lovers and cultural enthusiasts. Escape to beaches and spice gardens on the tropical island of Zanzibar or explore the country’s vast national parks and wildlife on a Tanzanian Safari.

For Next Time…

Though we don’t expect to hike Mt. Kilimanjaro again, we learned about Tanzania’s Mt. Meru, another hike-able volcano in the Arusha National Park. It’s the country’s second tallest mountain, after Mt. Kilimanjaro. Its summit reaches heights of 4,566 meters (14,980 feet). It can be hiked in 3-4 days. The route combines elements of a safari with bush camping and mountain hiking. 

Tanzanian Safari

Tanzanian Safari

Tanzania is the land of safaris and African adventures! Its vast nature reserves and national parks are home to scenic landscapes teeming with wildlife, herds of animals and endangered species. We spent four days roadtripping on a safari across the country visiting Tarangire National Park, The Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater. 

Tarangire National Park 

Tarangire National Park is a popular safari park home to parades of African elephants and ancient baobab trees. We joined a half day game drive through the park on the first day of our safari. 

Tarangire Landscapes.  Dusty roads lead through the scenic landscapes of Tarangire National Park. The terrain is defined by massive baobab trees, umbrella shaped acacia trees, dry grasslands and towering termite mounds. The baobab trees are easily recognizable by their massive trunks and large branching limbs. Some live to be several hundred years old.

Wild Animals.  The Tarangire is plentiful with African animals and wildlife. Small herds of wildebeests, zebra and giraffes gathered together to feed on trees and grasses. A pair of cape buffalo raised their heads from the bush, showing off their massive horns. Warthogs kneeled in the savanna, nibbling on dry grasses as they scurried around. Hornbill toucans and vibrant starlings hopped between tree branches and fluttered away. Waterback antelopes gazed back at us through our binoculars. Baboons and mischievous monkeys sat along roadsides and picnic areas waiting for opportunities to steal food. 

African Elephants.  Large parades of African elephants roam freely around the Tarangire. Soon after entering the park, we spotted over 20 elephants pulling down branches from acacia trees and feeding on grasses. We spotted a second herd marching through a valley. Tiny infants walked slowly alongside parents with lengthy tusks as one. They later crossed a river as we watched from a picnic area at lunch. We parked along the dirt road as a third parade crossed in front of us. A dozen elephants trotted by like a slow moving stampede, raising their trunks and rocking their heads as they passed.

Twiga Campsite & Lodge.  A budget hotel with a small campground, communal restrooms, buffet restaurant and outdoor pool. Three rows of Safari style tents line the lawn in front of the hotel. Inside are Massai woven bed cushions and standard sleeping bags. We camped here overnight after exploring Tarangire National Park.

Serengeti National Park 

The Serengeti is one of Africa’s most famed national park’s and wildlife reserves. Its vast savannas are home to a large population of big cats, predators and African animals. We spent two days on safari in the park, camping overnight in the bush. 

Serengeti Landscapes.  Vast savannas and dry grasslands stretch across the horizon of the Serengeti, occasionally interrupted by the lone acacia tree, termite mound or Kopjes. Safari vehicles zoom down dirt roads, leaving clouds of dust in their wake. Fiery sunsets cast shades of magenta and orange across the sky as silhouettes of acacia trees contrast the horizon.

Kopjes.  Dramatic granite outcrops that rise from the savanna like an island in a sea of grass. They’re also known as “pride rocks” and serve as important habitats for big cats like lions, cheetahs and leopards. 

The Great Migration.  The Great Migration is the largest migration event on the planet. Over a million wildebeests migrate alongside hundreds of thousands of zebras and antelopes from the Serengeti to the Maasai Mara in search of food and water. We witnessed the incredible event unfold across the vast landscape. Organized lines of wildebeests snaked across the savanna, trotting and honking as they migrated. A herd passed by a pride of male lions and later crossed the crocodile infested Mara River. Mass herds of wildebeests, zebras and antelopes gathered in the savanna grazing on grasses after migrating long distances. 

Lions.  Lions rein in the Serengeti! Three greeted us just before entering the Nkuyu Gate. One patrolled the roadway, another shaded under a bridge and the third drank from a puddle beside our Land Cruiser, its orange fur and fluffy mane within reaching distance. Several lions napped under a lone acacia tree in the middle of the savanna. Four lionesses prowled through the golden grasses. A majestic lion posed for photos, its amber eyes stared back at us with a genuine fearsomeness. 

Cheetahs.  Cheetahs are one of the most beautiful and powerful animals on the savanna. We encountered a trio napping and watching the horizon for approaching prey. 

Leopards.  Leopards are one of the most difficult animals to spot on the savanna. Our guide spotted one, very well camouflaged and perched on a Kopjes. To our surprise, two cute leopard cubs appeared and began licking the larger one before walking off together.

Hyena.  A solo hyena blocked the road as night fell. It yawned, showing off its pointed teeth before stretching and walking off into the sunset. 

Herds & Wildlife.  Herds of impala, gazelle and zebra roam freely across the dry plaines of the Serengeti. Rarer sights were wildebeest and hartebeest, having migrated on their annual migration to the Maasai Mara in Kenya. Towers of giraffe and parades of elephants march across the savanna in search of food and water. Though more difficult to see, small game like warthogs, jackals and mongoose forage in the low grasses. 

Seronera River.  A narrow river flowing through the south eastern Serengeti. Its lush banks are an oasis for Nile crocodile and large families of bathing hippos. Hundreds of hippos soak with their heads and backs above the water, huffing, puffing and snorting after fully submerging. A rare sight was an 8 ft long python slowly slithering across the ground not far from a large crocodile.

Pimbi Public Campsite.  Camping in the Serengeti is one of the most exciting way to experience the national park. The Pimbi Public Campsite is located in the middle of the Serengeti, completely exposed to the grassy plains and animals that roam them. We camped in tents for one night, arriving shortly after sunset. The cackle of hyena could be heard somewhere in the distance. The roars of lions reverberated across the savanna at night. We woke up to two leopards retuning from their hunt, climbing onto the rocks less than 300 meters from our camp.

Ngorongoro Conservation Area 

Ngorongoro is a lush conservation area famed for its volcanic caldera, large population of predators and variety of birdlife. We camped one night on the crater rim before descending into its expansive floor for a morning game drive.

The Ngorongoro Crater.  The crater is Africa’s largest caldera and the heart of the Ngorongoro Reserve. Its forested walls, grassy floor and alkaline lake is a cradle for life and host to countless species. Formed by the collapse of a prehistoric volcano, its walls tower an average of 2,000 feet above the crater floor. An observation deck looks into its vast expanse from the rim.

Lions & Cats.  Lions are the primary predator in The Ngorongoro Crater. We spotted a lioness and her three cubs walking along the roadside. A very majestic male lion with a dark mane stood in the grasses, looking across the landscape. A little serval slept in the dry grasses and morning sunlight.

Predators & Scavengers.  The Ngorongoro Crater is famed for its high concentration of predators and scavengers. A pride of several lions took down a juvenile wildebeest minutes before we reached the crater floor. The lions sat gnawing on its carcass, bones and skull. A pack of hyena surrounded the lions, waiting in the grasses for a chance at stealing scraps. Two jackals stared on as a flock of vultures flew overhead waiting for leftovers. Further into the crater, a pack of hyena feasted on a dead hippo, pulling intestines from the animal’s carcass.

Lake Magadi.  An alkaline lake in the Ngorongoro Crater home to a variety of aquatic birds like pink flamingos, blue hurons, yellow billed storks, cormorant, egrets and Egyptian Ibis flock to the lake. African crowned cranes, large ostrich, secretary birds and kori bustard forage in the surrounding grasses. Families of hippos lounge in the shallow waters while cape buffalo gather in the marshes. 

Herds of Animals.  Herds are confined to the crater year round due to its vast scale and range of ecosystems. Wildebeest, zebra, gazelle, buffalo and warthogs roam freely in the grasslands. Elephants and giraffes wander the forested crater walls and rim. 

Simba Campsite A.  A large campground on the Ngorongoro Crater Rim. It’s popular with both tenters and camper vans, offering amenities like shared kitchens, restrooms, hot showers, fire pits and a camp store. The campsite is surrounded by lush forest home to wild animals. An elephant walked along the camp’s perimeter, a herd of zebra grazed outside of our tents and a tower of giraffes sat across a distant hill. 

Good to Know.  The elevation of the crater rim sits at an average elevation of 7,500 feet above sea level. Its altitude results in cooler temperatures, especially at night. 

Maasai Village. Rural Tanzania is home to many African tribes, particularly the Maasai. They live in small communities comprised of cylindrical mud huts topped with conical thatched roofs. Many wear traditional robes, distinguished by their color and pattern. Maasai men shepherd cows, goats and sheep between fields. The women and children operate roadside stands selling woven baskets, bush honey and safari style paintings. There is a high concentration of Maasai villages on the route through Ngorongoro to the Serengeti.

Suricata Safaris

We booked our 4 day, 3 night group camping safari in Tarangire National Park, The Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater with Suricata Safarison Viator. It included all park fees, camping equipment, meals, water and transportation in a 4x4 Safari Land Cruiser. 

Where to Stay

The city of Arusha is a hub for Tanzanian safaris, located within a few hours of some of the country’s most famed reserves and national parks. Its common to stay here for at least a day before and after a safari.

Serengeti Villa.  A boutique eco hotel in Arusha with tropical gardens, safari style rooms and tribal furniture. The villa serves delicious Swahili meals and local beers, hosts nightly bonfires and offers services like laundry and luggage storage. Our only regret was not staying longer. Reserve on Booking.

Location Specifics

When to Visit.  The dry season, from July to October, is the best time of year to visit Tanzania for a safari.

Dust.  The savanna can be extremely dusty during the dry season. Bring wipes to clean off with and wear clothes you don’t mind getting dirty. 

Binoculars.  Being a pair of good binoculars to view distant animals and close up details of nearby game. We bought a pair of Nikon Monarch M5 with 10x42 magnification. 

Camera.  Phones can great for social media photos however, a professional camera is much better for detailed and close up photos. 

Tipping.  Plan to tip safari guides between $10-$20 USD per day per person.

Swahili Words & Phrases 

Swahili is the local language in Tanzania. We learned several basic words and phrases from our guides. 

• Jambo. A formal greeting meaning hello. 

• Mambo.  An informal greeting meaning hello or how are you?

• Poa or Poa Poa. A common response to Mambo, meaning good or well. 

• Habari Asubuhi.Good morning. 

• Lala Salama.  Good night or sleep well.

• Kwa Heri.  Goodbye. 

• Asante.  Thank you. 

• Asante Sana.  Thank you very much. 

• Karibu.  Welcome or you’re welcome.

• Hakuna Matata.  The phrase made world famous by the Lion King. It’s a real Swahili phrase meaning no worries or no problems.

Elsewhere in Tanzania 

We spent four weeks traveling across Tanzania. The country is a remarkable destination for adventure seekers, nature lovers and cultural enthusiasts. Hike to the summit of Africa’s tallest mountain, Mt. Kilimanjaro or escape to beaches and spice gardens on the tropical island of Zanzibar.

For Next Time…

We spent four days in the back of a Toyota Land Cruiser exploring Tanzania’s savannas, craters and national parks. Next time we return, we plan to experience a safari on foot and by air.

Walking Safari.  Guided safaris led on foot by rangers lead visitors through the Arusha National Park to see wildlife up close and personal. Unlike multi day safaris, the park offers full and half day experiences. 

Hot Air Ballon Safari.  Hot air balloons float through the early morning skies of the Serengeti. Once in the park, tour operators offer aerial safaris of its vast grasslands and kopjes. 

Kenyan Safari

Kenyan Safari 

Kenya’s protected reserves and sprawling savannas are home to African wildlife, migratory animals and endangered species, making the biodiverse country a classic destination to experience an unforgettable safari. Large herds move in unison as the fragrant scent of grasses wafts across the savanna. Majestic animals graze peacefully while predators stalk their prey and birds fly overhead.

We crossed the landscape on a six day safari, participating in multiple game drives and guided nature walks through the African bush with Explorers Wild Adventures. We spotted Africa’s “Big Five,” witnessed The Great Migration and visited a Maasai village to learn about indigenous culture and traditions. The safari included parks fees, transportation, camp accommodations and all meals.

Maasai Mara National Park

The Maasai Mara is one of Africa’s largest wild game reserves, sight of The Great Migration and home to endangered species, herds of animals, ferocious predators and seemingly endless savannas. We spent two days on Safari in the park witnessing some of nature’s most impressive sights and wildlife. 

The Great Migration.  The Great Migration is the largest migration event on the planet. Over a million wildebeests migrate alongside hundreds of thousands of zebras and antelopes from the Serengeti to the Maasai Mara in search of food and water. We witnessed the incredible event unfold across the vast landscape. Organized lines of wildebeests snaked across the savanna, trotting and honking as they migrated. A herd passed by a pride of male lions and later crossed the crocodile infested Mara River. Mass herds of wildebeests, zebras and antelopes gathered in the savanna grazing on grasses after migrating long distances. 

Predators & Big Cats.  The Maasai Mara is known for its high concentration of predators and big cats, especially during the Great Migration. Lions were a common sight while cheetahs and leopards were more illusive. 

• Lions. Lions are a familiar sight in the Maasai Mara. We spotted several pairs enjoying afternoon cat naps and watched as a pride rest under a tree as a herd of wildebeests migrated passed. The devoured carcass of a buffalo alerted us to another pride. Through our binoculars, we spotted a male, a cub and several lionesses prowling on distant rocks. 

• Cheetahs & Leopards.  A beautiful cheetah sat on a small hill overlooking the landscape. It groomed its orange black spotted fur while twirling its tail and looking around. Another quickly trotted across the savanna into the tree covered highlands. A well hidden leopard napped in the shade of a grassy riverbank, waking up briefly to change position.

African Elephants.  Parades of African Elephants grazed in the grasses, drank from watering holes and rolled in mud puddles of the Maasai Mara. Two parades marched by allowing for an up close encounter. One of the babies even wanted to play, running towards us and waving its trunk before trotting back to its mama. The remaining adults and calves joined a larger group gathering in the distant plains.

Big & Small Game.  We drove deeper into the Maasai Mara with our windows ajar and roof hatch opened. We spotted lone animals and herds of impala, zebra, wildebeest, hartebeest, antelopes and buffalo grazing in the savannas. Giraffes stood majestically in the bush, ostriches ruffled their feathers, jackals scavenged for food, warthogs scurried through the grasses, baboons stared off mischievously and Ugandan Crowned Cranes strutted along the roadside.

Birds of Prey.  Vultures and storks circle in the sky and nest in trees waiting to scavenge on leftover remains. They descended on a freshly killed wildebeest as a pair of lions rested in the distance. The birds ferociously ripped apart the carcass, bloodying their faces in the carnage.

Mara River.  The Mara River is one of the most dangerous parts of the Maasai Mara. A heavily armed ranger led us along its banks on a bush walk. Families of hippopotamuses bathed in the water, lifting their faces and backs above the surface, occasionally coming ashore. Nile crocodiles, both large and small, sunbathed along its banks while waiting for their next meal.

Guides.  A guide is needed to visit The Maasai Mara. One was included with our multi day safari tour. 

Massai Village Walk 

The Massai are a tribal group native to southern Kenya. We walked through a small village with a chief’s son learning more about their culture, traditions, way of life and reliance on cattle. The tribe wears brightly patterned shawls and colorful beaded accessories to distinguish between families. Men and women each performed traditional dances, inviting us to participate. We toured a Maasai house, like all others in the village, it’s made from clay and cow dung supported by olive wood. The snug interior is compartmentalized into three small bedrooms and a kitchen. Once the village walk ended, women displayed handmade beaded jewelry and wooden animal carvings for sale.

Lake Nakuru National Park 

Lake Nakuru is a salt water lake in the Kenyan highlands famed for its array of aquatic bird species, endangered rhino and giraffes populations. 

Southern White Rhino.  The reserve surrounding Lake Nakuru is home to a growing population of Southern White Rhinos. We spotted several on our safari around the lake. A mother and calf stood together in the bushes, a group of three grazed in the a field and a full crush of six rested in the distance grasses.

Birdwatching.  Hundreds of migratory birds flock to Lake Nakuru. We spotted a flamboyant of lesser flamingos, giant white pelicans hunting, Egyptian geese, cormorants and various types of storks. Flocks of guinea fowl are commonly spotted scurrying in the park’s roadside bushes. 

Nubian Giraffe.  Lake Nakuru is home to about 65 Nubian Giraffes. There are less than 1,400 of the critically endangered species remaining in the wild. We observed at least half of the park’s population as they strutted through fields and grazed on tall trees. 

Wildlife Spotting.  Lake Nakuru is home to variety of wildlife. Large herds of water buffalo, impalas, grand gazelle and zebras are common sights. Groups of warthogs appeared from their dens, chasing each other around and grazing on grasses. Troops of baboons patrol the roadsides, often trotting after impalas encroaching on their territory. Hyena lurk in the grasses while jackals slink between bushes. 

Makalia Falls.  A 10 meter tall waterfall spilling over a rocky cliff into a river pool. The water was a rich chocolaty brown color due to recent strong rains. 

Climate Change.  Lake Nakuru used to be known for its millions of pink flamingos, accounting for a third of the world’s population. In recent years, flooding has reduced the salinity of the lake and a majority of the flamingos have migrated elsewhere.

Guides.  Lake Nakuru can can be visited without a guide or 4x4 vehicle. We visited with a guide, included in our multi day safari. 

Lake Naivasha

Lake Naivasha is a high altitude freshwater lake home to native hippos, aquatic birds and wildlife relocated from the Maasai Mara. We took a boat safari on its waters and walking safari along its shores. 

Lake Naivasha Boat Safari.  A tranquil ride across the Lake Naivasha allowed us to spot wild hippos and aquatic birds. The hippos lounged in the shallows near shore, lifting the head above the surface for air before fully submerging. For safety, we kept a distance of 50 to 100 feet. The lake is full of bird life like nesting cormorants, king fishers, hamerkops, sacred ibises, vibrant starlings, great white pelicans and fish eagles. The lake is commercialized with eco-resorts, hotels, summer cottages and campgrounds tracing its shoreline. Locals wade in the shallows fishing for tilapia and other lake fish. 

Lake Naivasha Walking Safari.  A wildlife reserve encompasses the shores of Lake Naivasha. It’s home to animals found in the Maasai Mara like waterbuck antelope, impala, zebra, wildebeest and giraffe. A walking safari brought us up close to the animals as they grazed. We listened as the exotic sounds of birds sang out around us. The animals are not allowed to be touched or fed in order to keep them wild. Most are even skittish and stray away from humans despite their habitualization.  

Amboseli National Park 

Amboseli National Park is famed for its large population of African elephants, wild game and dramatic landscapes. Its wetlands create a lush oasis and shallow lake visited by elephants and migratory birds. Wild game graze in vast lowlands covered in bush and Acacia trees. Dust devils spiral into the sky across the dry savanna. Clouds completely obscured views of Mt Kilimanjaro. 

African Elephants.  African elephants frequently travel in large groups across the Amboseli. Several parades comprised of the smallest of calfs and the largest of matriarchs marched in lines across the savanna towards a lush oasis. By the mid afternoon, well over one hundred had met to graze, bathe and socialize. A parade of the gentle giants passed closely by us ripping up grass with their trunks, sporting pairs of large white tusks and flapping their giant ears. We even spotted one of the park’s famed “super tuskers,” recognizable by their massive tusks. 

Game Spotting.  The expanses of the Amboseli are thriving with all kinds of African animals. Towers of giraffes grazed on trees. Small herds of zebras, wildebeest and gazelle roamed freely. A trio of fearsome lionesses lay in the grasses as cautious zebras passed by. A pair of jackals chased away an impala. A serval sprinted quickly past. Ostriches strut across the savanna like giant feather dusters. Warthogs scurried together in the bush. Two sleepy hyena woke from their den to look around. 

Wetlands.  The wetlands of the Amboseli are a gathering place and a habitat for birdlife. At their center is a mirror-like lake surrounded by lush grasses where flocks of pink and white flamingos gather. Storks, herons, cranes and hamerkops hunt for fish in narrow streams. Hippos bathe in watering holes and lounge along the muddy shores.

Noomotio Observation Point.  A panoramic lookout on an extinct volcano with views of the wetland, savanna and on a clear day, Mt. Kilimanjaro. Wildebeest and zebra roam freely around the slopes while elephants march in the distance. A short trail leads to a picnic area at the top with beautiful starlings and canaries chirping in the bushes.

Guides.  The Amboseli can can be visited without a guide or 4x4 vehicle. We visited with a guide, included in our multi day safari. 

Safari Camps & Hotels 

We spent the 6 days of our safari, migrating between campsites and and hotels nearby the national parks and nature preserves. 

Miti Mingi Eco Camp.  A safari camp on the edge of the Maasai Mara National Park with a few dozen walk in style tents. Each tent is equipped with beds, mosquito nets, electricity, running water and restrooms. A dining hall offers buffet meals, local beers and Kenyan tea. We stayed here the first two nights of our safari. 

Hunters Luxury Manor Amboseli.  A luxurious safari camp with spacious canvas tents, an outdoor swimming pool, a communal dining area and bon fire pit. The tent’s interiors are furnished wooden furniture, mosquito netted beds, cow hide rugs and a free standing soaking tub. Outside is a cozy patio and an outdoor shower. The manor offers full room and board. 

Nyati Safari Camp.  A budget safari camp near the entrance of Amboseli National Park. They offer a range of accommodations from motel style rooms to semi luxurious tents. Buffet breakfasts and dinners are provided along with packed lunches for full day game drives. There are evening bonfires and morning nature walks. 

Buraha Zenoni Hotel & Resort.  A hotel nearby Lake Nakuru with decent rooms, a roof top restaurant and bar, an outdoor pool and evening Maasai dance performances. Their buffet meals included a mix of Kenyan cuisine and western dishes. We stayed here for one night while exploring lake. 

Safari Tips

4x4 Vehicle.  Only book a safari with a 4x4 Land Cruiser or Jeep and pop up roof. They’re the only vehicles that can handle the rugged terrain. Safari vans are slow and can’t access more treacherous parts of the parks. 

Binoculars.  Being a pair of good binoculars to view distant animals and close up details of nearby game. We bought a pair of Nikon Monarch M5 with 10x42 magnification. 

Camera.  Phone can great for social media photo however, a professional camera is much better for detailed and close up photos. 

Wear Layers.  It’s cool in the mornings and evening but warm during the day. Plan to easily add or subtract layers. 

Dust.  The savanna can be extremely dusty during the dry season. Bring wipes to clean off with and wear clothes you don’t mind getting dirty. 

Tipping.  Plan to tip Safari guides between $10-$20 USD per day per person. 

When to Visit.  One of the best times of year to visit the Maasai Mara is during the Great Migration between July and August. Millions of migrating animals cross the savanna in search of food and water while attracting predators. This coincides with Kenya’s winter. The temperatures are often cooler and day are cloudy.

Swahili Words & Phrases 

English is commonly spoken across Kenya. Many people also speak Swahili, an East African language. 

Jambo.  A common greeting. When someone says Jambo, respond back with Jambo as a sign of mutual respect. 

Mambo.  A more informal version of Jambo. It’s often said amongst friends. 

Karibu.  A greeting meaning welcome or used as you’re welcome.

Asante.  Thank you. 

Asante Sana.  Thank you very much. 

Hakuna Matata.  To quote the Lion King, it means “no worries” or no troubles. It is a genuine Swahili phrase though mostly said between locals and travelers. 

Rwandan Roadtrip

Rwandan Roadtrip

Rwanda is a small East African country known as the land of 1,000 hills. It’s home to lush farmland, mountainous rainforests, sprawling savannas, great lakes and volcanos. Encounters with endangered primates like gorillas, chimpanzees and golden monkeys attract eco-tourists from across the world. The country’s cultural identity and history are on display at museums, galleries and memorials. We spent a week road-tripping across the country, experiencing its natural beauty, extraordinary animals and local culture. 

Observe the Local Culture

One of the most eye-opening parts about driving in Rwanda was observing the local culture. People work hard cultivating farmland and transporting goods to markets in rural villages. The roadsides are consistently buzzing with people. Women carry bunches of bananas, baskets of produce and sacs of goods on their heads. Men ride and push bicycles overloaded with bundles of sugarcane, silver canisters of milk and bags of goods. Children fill jerry cans with fresh water from wells and roll wheels with sticks for leisure. 

Kigali, Rwanda 

Kigali is the vibrant capital city of Rwanda. Its modern neighborhoods and densely populated communities sprawl across the landscape’s rolling hills. Their warm tones glow by day and white lights twinkle by night. It’s a verdant place with palm lined boulevards, flowering trees and manicured bushes. The country’s culture is expressed through its people, goods, cuisine and history. Shops sell handmade crafts and African goods. Seasonally farmed produce is sold at local markets. Women dress in colorfully patterned clothes. Restaurants serve Rwandan cuisine while cafes brew Rwandan coffee. The people look towards the future while remembering the 1994 Genocide. 

See the Sights  

Kigali Genocide Memorial.  A memorial and historical museum dedicated to the victims of the 1994 genocide. The museum is organized by section. It teaches about the root causes and colonial divisions that lead to the genocide. It details the history and atrocities prior to and during. It honors the victims and those that stood up to terror as it ensued. It explains the steps post genocide to heal Rwanda and hold accountable those responsible. Lastly, it calls on upon humanity act to prevent future genocides. Mass graves containing the remains of a quarter million people murdered during the genocide are laid to rest here. They’re surrounded by symbolic gardens dedicated to the victims. More than 200 other memorial sights across the country serve as a stark reminder of the atrocities. 

Pro Tip. Pay for an audio guide to learn more from the memorial and museum.

Belgian Peacekeepers Memorial.  A memorial for 10 Belgian peacekeepers killed during the early hours of the 1994 Genocide. The bullet riddled building is the sight of the massacre. It is preserved and partially converted in a museum recounting the timeline of the tragedy. A stone monument honors and remembers the peacekeepers live.  Entrance is by donation. 

Inema Arts Gallery.  A small arts center and gallery with pieces made by East African and Rwandan artists. Many of the works explore cultural identity, ancestry and heritage. Several pieces are made using, Bark Cloth, the outer layer of the ficus tree. The gallery also features traditional wooden masks, furniture and sculptures. 

Kigali Car Free Zone.  A walking street and plaza lined with kiosks and shops selling Rwandan handicrafts and Rwandan street food. There is no shortage of carved wooden gorillas and similar themed objects like chess sets, walking sticks and furniture. Merchants sell African masks, woven baskets, cow hide drums, colorful handmade jewelry, home decor, patterned clothing and culturally inspired paintings. Cafes serve cups of Rwandan coffee, croissants, chapati rolls and samosas. 

Biryogo Car Free Food Street.  A painted walking street lined with dozens of Rwandan, Arabian and South Asian restaurants. Tables, chairs and umbrellas flood the street as hosts advertise and compete for business. It’s a hyper local spot to taste Rwandan cuisine and regional flavors. We ate at Visit Rwanda, a restaurant serving a range of local dishes and fresh fruit juices. We ordered the Nile perch fish brochettes, vegetarian imvange amashaza, spiced rice pilau, tree tomato and passion fruit juices. Visit on Saturday night for the liveliest experience.  

Good to Know.  Most restaurants are cash only. Vegetarian versions of local dishes are hard to come by. The street is in the Arab Quarter, resultantly, alcohol sales are forbidden. 

Kimironko Market.  Kigali’s central marketplace is a hub for locals and affordable goods. Inside a dimly lit yellow shed is a bustling farmers market with towering piles of vegetables and produce. It took our eyes a few minutes to adjust before truly appreciating the vast selections. Barrels overflow with dried beans and grains. Tables are covered with heaps of carefully stacked fruits and vegetables. Leafy greens and herbs blur into a singular mass. Bunches of bananas and plantains rest at the end of aisles. The smell of dirt wafts from the potatoes and root vegetables. Friendly vendors greeted us with “hello customer, buy something?” The building is surrounded by red dirt roads and stands selling miscellaneous goods like clothes, shoes, furniture, hardware and fabrics.

Mount Kigali Forest.  A forested mountain in the center of Kigali with nature trails, wild velvet monkeys and partial city views. Dirt roads lead up its hillside through local communities to the entrance of the forest. Unmarked trails weave through the forest while city views are visible from the dirt road between it and the communities below. 

Getting Here.  Follow KN229 Street to reach the forest. The steep and rocky street is lined vendors selling home grown produce and charcoal. People were curious about us and very friendly, often smiling in response to us saying Muraho, hello in Kinyarwanda. 

Good to Know. The top of the mountain has a field with communications towers and a military base. We wandered here but were turned around by soldiers. It’s best to avoid.

Volcanos National Park

Volcanos National Park is the last remaining habitat for the endangered Silverback Gorillas and Golden Monkeys. The park is covered in a crest of tree covered volcanos, straddling the boarders of Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Eco hotels are built between farmland just outside of the park. The Rwanda Development Board offers eco tours to see the primates in their natural habitat. They’re highly protected and require an advance permit to visit. 

Golden Monkey Trekking.  The Golden Monkeys are an endangered species native to the Volcano National Park. They live in the forested lowlands surrounding the volcanos and feed on endemic patches of bamboo. Just over 3,000 golden monkeys remain in the wild. Our guides tracked a troop of 70 to an area along the boarder of the park. We spent over an hour observing them in their natural habitat. Their cute and puffy faces glimpsed at us spying on them. They jumped between bamboo stalks and nibbled on leaves. They showed off their golden backs while grooming each other. 

Good to Know.  We were required to wear medical masks to prevent spread of disease. Given their border location, trackers and armed guards followed us for added security. 

Gorilla Naming Place.  A large thatched monument of a family of Gorillas. The largest gorilla’s hands are outstretched, creating a platform for photos. Behind is a replica village with three thatched huts.

Buhanga Eco Park.  A historical sight used to anoint the past kings of Rwanda. Inside the forested park are moss covered lava rock walkways and platforms. They lead to a small cave where the heir to the throne would descend for the anointment ritual. Servants would cleanse him with water and leaves from the forest. He would be declared king upon exiting the cave. The park is only accessible by permit and guide from the Rwanda Development Board. 

Nyungwe Forest National Park

Nyungwe Forest National Park is a tropical rainforest in the high hills of Rwanda. Its lush canopy is home to 20 perfect of Africa’s primates including endangered chimpanzees. We spent a couple days here exploring the park and watching for wildlife. 

Kivu Belt Road.  The single road through the forest and between its visitor centers. It’s a hub for roadside wildlife spotting. We saw chimpanzees, olive baboons, forest antelopes, L'Hoest's and blue monkeys. The road is heavily patrolled by the military in response to conflict with neighboring Burundi and Democratic Republic of the Congo.

Uwinka Visitor Center.  A nature center in the middle of the forest with a canopy walk, zipline, coffee shop, eco hotel and hiking trails. It’s the main hub for many of the forest’s activities. 

Chimpanzee Trekking.  The Nyungwe Forest is home to a growing population of wild Chimpanzees. We trekked beneath its lush canopy to see them in their natural habitat. The sounds of birds singing and insects buzzing filled the morning air as daylight broke. Trackers led the way as we hiked trails, through the thick jungle and down steep slopes. After a couple kilometers, we spotted a family of four chimps in a towering tree. They climbed and swung between branches while feeding on berries. A baby chip stuck close to its mother while learning to climb on its own. We continued further into the jungle, spotting a tree with several more chimps nomming on its leaves. Tropical birds like hornbill toucans, colorful turacos and vibrant sunbirds appeared around is while we quietly watched. 

Pro Tip.  Ants are everywhere when trekking through the jungle. Wear hiking gaiters or long socks over your pant legs to avoid painful bites. 

Nyungwe Canopy Walk.  A series of three suspension bridges above the treetop canopy. The central bridge has panoramic views of the jungleous forest, parasol trees and layers of hilly ridges. It’s reachable from the Uwinka Visitor Center along the Igishigishigi Trail, a 2.1km loop through the forest. 

Nyungwe Night Walk.  A two hour nighttime walk through the forest to spot nocturnal animals. We trekked the Igishigishigi Trail with red lamps in hopes of seeing flying squirrels and bush babies. Unfortunately we didn’t have any luck spotting many animals outside of seeing a few bats. 

Kitabi Eco Center Hotel.  An eco lodge on the edge of Nyungwe Forest with a half dozen thatched huts and a restaurant. The huts have an authentic feeling, designed in the traditional style of the Rwandan king’s palace. The hotel and restaurant overlook steep hills and valleys planted with rows of tea. Our stay included complementary breakfast each morning: eggs, fruit and the local flat bread. We enjoyed dinner around a coal camp fire and watched European football with a group of locals. Reserve on Booking. 

Good to Know.  All trails and activities within the forest need to be accompanied by a guide. Park permits and activities can be booked and paid for in advance with Visit Nyungwe. 

Pro Tip.  Wear layers. It gets cold with temperatures ranging from high 40s F to low 60s F (5C - 15C).

King’s Palace Museum

The King’s Palace Musuem is showcases the modern and traditional homes of Rwanda’s past kings, the country’s royal cows and cultural board games. 

The Traditional Palace.  A replica of the royal tribal village. At its center is a large thatched hut made from woven and braided grasses. Its domed interior feels like an upside down basket with rooms divided by wooden columns and woven panels. The floor is layered with dried grasses and thatched rugs. A ficus bark blanket covers an elevated bedroom platform. It’s circled by a reeded fence and multiple small huts. Each surrounding hut had their own purpose such as storing milk or beer.

The Modern Palace.  A residence built in the early 20th century for the Rwandan King. It featured living quarters and formal decorated with painted fireplaces, tribal patterns, antique furniture, hunting spears and historic photographs. 

The Royal Cows.  An endangered species of cows recognizable by their disproportionately large horns. A handler sang and presented them to us like would be traditionally done for kings. We petted fully grown and adults and several month old calfs. 

Play Igisoro.  A traditional two player strategy game where opponents “eat” or compete for each other’s pieces along a pitted board. We learned to play while sipping on African Coffee. 

Getting Here.The museum is located in Nyanza, halfway between Kigali and The Nyungwe Forest. 

Coffee Culture 

The coffee culture in Rwanda is growing, both figuratively and literally! We visited a coffee farm, roastery and multiple cafes during our time here. 

African Coffee. A Rwandan style coffee made with espresso, ginger, steamed milk and occasionally chocolate.

Huye Mountain Coffee.  A coffee farm with over 7,000 trees, a processing factory, small roastery and roadside cafe. We toured the farm, learning more about the history of coffee, the farm’s organic growing methods and hand processing. Once grown and harvested, the fruits are skinned, fermented, dried and sorted into green coffee for export. The roasted coffee is only sold in Rwanda and at their cafe. We enjoyed a midafternoon caffeine fix before our drive back to Kigali. 

Places to Eat & Drink in Kigali 

Niyo Art Cafe.  An open air cafe with vibrant murals spanning the floor from the street to the interior. The dining area is decorated with patterned Rwandan textiles, sculptures, paintings and plants. Come here for coffee! 

Restaurant l’Epicurien.  A romantic restaurant serving traditional French dishes made using local Rwandan ingredients. The dining room is spread out amongst an atmospheric garden and indoor terrace. We enjoyed the Burgundy snails, a whole grilled tilapia and brochettes (skewers) of Nile Perch along with French wine.

Rwandan Cuisine 

• Ibihaza.  The national dish of Rwanda. It’s a hearty one pot stew made with pumpkin, beans, bell pepper, onions and garlic. 

• Agatogo.  A savory one pot stew made with green bananas, collared greens, spinach, tomato, bell peppers, onions and spices. It’s garnished with avocado and peanut crumble. 

• Brochettes.  Barbecued or fried skewers of meat like beef, goat, chicken or fish. 

• Imvange Amashaza.  Stewed peas mixed with potatoes, carrots, onions and spices accompanied by fresh avocado. It’s typically vegetarian. 

• Pilau.  An East African rice dish cooked with a range of warm spices like cardamom, cumin, turmeric, cinnamon and bay leaves. It’s served as a side or stand alone meal. 

• Tree Tomato.  A deep red egg shaped fruit with a tart flavor similar to raspberry. It’s eaten fresh, blended into juices and baked with pastries.  

• Ugali.  A commonly eaten white corn or cassava flour mash used to scoop stews by hand. Roll a small lump into a ball, press an indentation in the center and scoop using your right hand.  

• Chapati.  A type of roti used to scoop stews and curries by hand. They’re also used to make wraps and samosas.  

• Chips (French Fries).  A common side dish served with most meals made popular by the Belgian and French colonial influences.

Rwandan Beers

Rwanda has a growing beer culture with both traditional and modern brews. We sampled a few pints 

Banana Beer.  A traditional Rwandan drink made from banana juice, water, sugar, sorghum flour and yeast. It’s home brewed across the country. It’s often sold at local markets in small villages. 

Akarusho.  A commercial brand of banana beer. It’s described as a “sweet banana based alcoholic beverage.” It has a malty and semi sweet flavor with a hint of banana. 

Virunga.  The most popular craft beer in Rwanda. It comes in at least three variety: Silver, Gold and Mist.

• Silver.  A light and easy drinking lager. 

• Gold.  A flavorful lager with a subtle sweetness. 

• Mist.  A dark ale with a nutty and aromatic flavor. 

Where to Stay

Salama Village Kigali.  A small homestay in lush and quiet neighborhood of Kigali. Its rooms have shaded outdoor patios, access to a communal kitchen and a living room lounge. Reserve on Booking.

Driving in Rwanda

We loved driving in Rwanda due to freedom of exploration and getting to observe the local culture. It’s easy to get used to after the first day but like everywhere it has its pros and cons. 

• Pros:  Most roads double lane, smoothly paved, well maintained and illuminated at night. Cars are typically automatic. Locals drive on the right side of the road. 

• Cons:  Roadsides become congested with people carrying goods, large trucks can cause delays, motorbikes can be unpredictable. 

Traffic Cameras. Speed limits are strictly enforced by traffic cameras across the country. Permanent camera are located every few kilometers while hidden cameras are nestled in bushes daily by police.  

Refueling.  Gas station attendants refuel vehicles for you. Credit card is typically accepted for payment. 

Car Rental.  We rented our car from Rent Car Rwanda. The car was dropped off and picked up from our accommodation in Kigali. The prices are very reasonable for a 4x4 SUV with insurance included. Reservations are made through WhatsApp and can be paid by card in person. 

Getting Around Kigali 

Move.  A taxi hailing app similar to Uber or Grab. It’s specific to Rwanda and one of the best ways of getting around Kigali affordably. The app can be glitchy, with issues reaching drivers and processing payments. 

Moto Taxi.  Moto taxis are the local way of getting around. They’re readily available in groups along the roadsides.

Location Specifics

Language.  Most people in Rwanda are trilingual. They speak their mother tongue Kinyarwanda as well as French and English. Some common words and phrases are:

• Muraho (mo-rah-ho) = Hello / Bonjour

• Murakoze (moo-rah-koh-zay) = Thank you / Merci 

• Urakoze (oo-rah-koh-zeh) = Thank you / Merci 

• Murabeho (moo-rah-bay-ho) = Good bye / Au revoir

• Muryoherwe (moo-yo-heh-weh) = Enjoy your meal / Bon appetit 

Cash vs Card.  Cash is preferred by most businesses. They accept Rwandan Franc and the US Dollar. Most places will accept credit card but for a transaction fee. 

General Safety.  Kigali is one of the safest cities in Africa. People are kind, honest and respectful. We had no issues walking around by day or night. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Rwanda is one of the few African country’s where homosexuality is legal. There are no laws against discrimination and public opinion is generally unfavorable of same sex relationships. Read more on our article about LGBTQ+ Travel Safety. 

Plastic Bags.  Rwanda is serious about conservation. Plastic bags are banned across the country which strict enforcement to prevent littering. Hardly a single piece of trash litters the streets or roadsides.

The 1994 Genocide.  The genocide is a horrific and recent part of the country’s past. Treat the topic with the utmost care and respect. Avoid conversations regarding people’s ethnic groups. 

Pre-Airport Security Check.  Before entering the airport, there is a roadside security check. Passengers have to pass through metal detectors while their bags are scanned or sniffed by dogs. It’s common practice in East Africa. 

For Next Time…

Gorilla Trekking in Volcano National Park.  Traveling on a budget, we prioritized seeing Rwanda’s other primates. When we return, visiting the gorillas will be top of mind. 

Volcano Hiking.  We plan to hike at least one of the volcanoes in the Volcano National Park boarding Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo like Mount Bisoke and it’s crater lake as well and Mount Sabyinyo and the tri-boarder point. 

Lake Kivu.  Rwanda may be land locked but it’s flanked by one of Africa’s Great Lakes, Lake Kivu. Its shores are ideal for hiking, bird watching and water sports. 

Safari in Akagera National Park.  Having gone on safari in Kenya and Tanzania on our trip through East Africa, we opted out of going on safari in Rwanda. Next time we return we plant to visit Akagera National Park to see its landscapes and wild game. 

Nairobi, Kenya

Nairobi, Kenya

Nairobi is a place where urban life and the African wild meet. Kenya’s capital city is a hub for big game safaris with access to national parks and reserves. City museums feature exhibits on Maasai culture, restaurants serve local cuisine, cafes brew Kenyan coffee and markets sell East African artistry. We explored the city and ventured across the country’s rich landscapes on an unforgettable safari! 

Central Business District.  The historic heart of the city with bustling streets, roadside vendors, artisan markets, landmark buildings and modern skyscrapers. Stay alert here as it can often be the sight of large protests and demonstrations. 

Ngara.  A central neighborhood that offers a glimpse into local life. The streets are bustling with people on foot, commuting in graffitied buses and shopping at roadside tents displaying produce, fruits, clothes and shoes.

Westlands.  A polished neighborhood with modern high rises, higher end restaurants, office buildings and luxurious hotels. It’s one of the safest areas of the city.

Gigiri.  A tree covered neighborhood surrounded by city parks and home to a large number of embassies, foreign expats and restaurants. 

See the Sights

Nairobi National Museum.  A museum dedicated to the societal, natural and human histories of Kenya. Societal exhibits recount the pre-colonial, colonial and independent histories of Kenya, including that of the country’s many tribes, regions, traditions and folklore. A natural history exhibit displays mounted animals categorizing some of Kenya’s many native species. A particular, though tragic, highlight is Sudan, the last male Northern White Rhino. Kenya is known as the Cradle of Humanity for its fossil records of the earliest humanoids. Exhibits feature skeletons and skulls representing human evolution, the most significant being the Turkana Boy, a complete skeleton of a 1.6 million year old Homo Erectus. 

Kaura Forest.  A large city park and protected forest with nature trials, wildlife, waterfalls and caves. We spent an afternoon meandering through the forest trails brimming with blue, yellow, emerald and orange butterflies. A troop of Mantled Guereza, a black monkey identifiable by their bushy white tails long fringe like hairs, jumped between treetops. Pairs of Suni, a small type of antelope foraged on the forest floor. 

• Karura Waterfalls.  A three tiered waterfall flowing from a chocolate colored river in the middle of the forest. 

• Mau Mau Caves.  A series of riverside caves downstream from the waterfall. They have been used by indigenous peoples dating back hundreds of years. 

• Good to Know.  Admission costs a small fee from any of the park entrances. 

Giraffe Centre.  A conservation center for Rothschild Giraffes with a viewing platform and feeding station. We stood face to face with the giraffes, admiring their towering bodies, exotic patterns and cute expressions up close. Their warm grey tongues licked fibrous pellets them our fingers. Warthogs ran around their long legs feeding on fallen scraps. Adult giraffes and calfs walked around the tree covered meadow and nature trails beyond. The center is famed for the Giraffe Manor, an ivy covered stone estate converted into a bed and breakfast for high paying guests to visit with giraffes. 

Shop the Markets

Nairobi City Market.  An eclectic market in the Central Business District with shops selling African goods, fresh flowers and meats. Friendly vendors invite you to take a look at their African handicrafts like wooden animal statues, beaded masks, leather sandals, landscape paintings, colorful woven textiles, baskets and bags. Between the things shops are a couple small produce stands. The exterior of the building is painted with murals and patterns representing the country.  Fragrant flower stands line the sidewalks surrounding the building. A meat market with butchers, fish mongers and strong smells occupies the side of it. 

Maasai Market.  A traditional handicrafts market consisting of local vendors selling handmade Kenyan and Maasai goods. Aisles of tents line a parking lot, each merchandised with a variety of items. We saw stone and wooden statuettes of animals, Maasai beaded jewelry and masks, wooden kitchenware and serveware, colorful and patterned textiles, natural woven bags and baskets, African spears and shields, brass metalwork and canvas paintings. We left purchasing a shoulder bag, two rings, beaded jewelry, a cooking paddle and a bird statuette. 

• How to Works. The market is intimidating at first. Before reaching it, several men surrounded and followed us inside. They do not leave you alone, tell you any prices or let you purchase directly from vendors. Instead, they act as “chaperones,” collecting items from vendors that you select. After walking you through the market, they display all of the goods you selected and make an outrageous offer. 

• Haggle.  Now the haggling begins! Counter with an offer between 10-20% of their asking price. Let them make you a “special price” but hold firm on your offer. The price will continue to drop, especially as you walk away. They want to make a sale after chaperoning you through the market. Let them win a little and go up 10% from your first offer. They’ll grudgingly agree, smile and offer a handshake. Do not pay more than 20-25% of their initial asking price. They’ll accept cash or credit card. 

• Pro Tip.  You can see and purchase many of the same goods at roadside shops across the country. If going on a safari, you will inevitably find yourself in one during rest stops. Save yourself some hassle and purchase goods from here.

Nairobi National Park

A national park and protected wildlife reserve on the edge of Nairobi. It’s home to a wide range of African animals while still in view of the city’s skyline. We went on a half day safari through the park, its vast savanna and grasslands. 

The Big Five.  The “Big Five” in Africa refers to the most difficult big game animals to spot on foot. We spotted three of the five during our safari, including rhinos, buffalo and a lion! A solo Lion walked slowly along the park’s dirt road as we observed from our safari truck. A pair of Cape Buffalo, recognizable by their dramatic horns feed in the grass. A critically endangered Black Rhino lurked in the bush. It offered us a fierce yet cute stare with its pointed horn and wiggling ears. A crash of threatened Southern White Rhinos stood in the savanna and several more slept near the road. We passed up close enough to hear them breathing.

Herds of Animals.  The constant herds of animals were an unbelievable sight! Black and white striped zebras, patterned giraffes, horned impalas, antelopes and hartebeests gathered throughout the reserve. A white rhino even surprised us as it walked from beyond a bush as we watched a tower of giraffes graze. 

Wild Game.  We spotted several other wild game on our safari. A lone hyena and curious jackals ran through the bush. A solo wildebeest tried to blend within a large dazzle of zebras. A warthog nestled in the grass. A troop of baboons sat grooming each other. A family of Roxk Hyrax, a tailless rodent, crawled over rocks. 

African Birds.  The park is home to native Kenyan and East African birds. We spotted varying species from the world’s largest to small and colorful birds. Ugandan Cranes with crowned heads stood near watering holes. Dozens of Guinea Fowl, a wild chicken, ran along the roadside. Vibrant blue and orange kingfishers rested on shrubs. Vultures watched from tree tops. Towering ostriches strutted across the savanna.

Watering Holes.  Watering holes are great gathering spots to observe wild game. Crocodiles lurked at the waters edge as a zebras drank and a flock of African Ibis landed nearby. Adult and baby hippos lounged in water, poking their large heads and backs above the surface.

Book a Safari.  A guided safari is the best way to visit the Nairobi National Park. We booked our Safari with Live in Love Kenya Tours and Travel. It included a guide and transportation in a 4x4 Safari Land Cruiser with a pop up roof. 

Good to Know.  Park entrance fees are not typically included in safaris and need to be paid separately. The animals and game are purely wild and can only be viewed from safari vehicles. They’re not lured or baited. It’s forbidden to get out of safari vehicles due to safely. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Nana Swahili Restaurant.  A Kenyan restaurant with a range of East African dishes. We dined here our first night in Nairobi, ordering two stews eaten by hand with Ugali and Chapatis. Try the red snapper cooked in coconut curry and maharagwe ya nazi, kidney beans cooked in a coconut béchamel. 

Connect Coffee.  A coffee shop and roastery with house roasted Kenyan coffee and fresh baked pastries. Try their hand brewed coffees or their specialty, Mt. Kilimanjaro, a layered coffee made with espresso, cream and chocolate.

Hero Restaurant & Bar.  A super hero themed bar on a roof top overlooking the Gigiri neighborhood and Nairobi skyline. The interior is painted in murals of superhero’s and chairs are embellished with their logos. Order cocktails from their superhero and sidekick inspired menu printed on a comic book. It’s been rated as one of the Top 50 Bars in the world. Try the Captain’s Tea, Highly Sassy, Kijabe Kayama or Plantain Old Fashioned. 

Rosina’s.  A Swahili and Indian fusion restaurant. Ordered a curried and spiced seafood platter to share with lobster, calamari, crab, oysters, shrimp and fish. It came with Kenyan chipati and a spread of sauces. For dessert, a saffron icecream with peanuts, chia, jellies and noodles. 

Kenyan Cuisine

Kenyan cuisine is flavorful, fresh and aromatic. A staple of the cuisine are various forms of one pot dishes. We tasted and cooked several local meals consisting of hearty grains, warm spices, a range of vegetables. 

• Ugali.  A commonly eaten white corn flour mash used to scoop stews and curries by hand. Roll a small lump into a ball, press an indentation in the center and scoop using your right hand.  

• Chapati.  A type of roti used to scoop stews and curries by hand. 

• Sukuma Wiki.  A dish made from sautéed collared greens or spinach, onions, tomatoes and spices. It’s eaten by hand with Ugali. 

• Kachumbari.  A salad made with chopped tomatoes, red onions and chili peppers. 

• Pilau.  A hearty and flavorful “one pot” rice dish made with aromatic spices, onions, tomatoes, potatoes and a protein like beef, chicken or soy. 

• Matoke.  A one pot dish made with stewed green bananas, vegetables and a range of savory spices. 

• Githeri.  A stew made from corn, beans, arrowroot and a mix of aromatic spices. It’s eaten with Ugali. 

• Rolex.  A chipati with an omelette rolled up inside. It gets its name from the phrase, “rolled eggs.”

• Samosas.  A common snack across Kenya brought over by Indian influences. The dough packets are stuffed with spices, potatoes and peas.

• Ugi.  A hearty porridge made from finger millet grains and warm spices. It’s a common breakfast dish across East Africa. 

• Mandazi.  Fried donuts made from puff pastry and a hint of cardamom. They’re eaten with coffee or tea. 

• Bush Honey.  Wild flower honey produced by bush bees. It has a dark color and very floral flavor. 

• Chai.  A black milk tea brewed with warm spices like pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, ginger and coriander. 

• Tusker Beer.  One of Kenya’s national beers. Its logo is of a tusker African elephant. Try the lager and cider. 

Where to Stay

Mushembi Airbnb.  We stayed in a two bedroom apartment in Ngara with a kitchen and in unit laundry. It was a comfortable and spacious place with Kenyan decor including beaded masks, woven baskets, colorful textiles and wooden animal sculptures. 

Khweza Bed and Breakfast.  A centrally located and affordable hotel with comfortable rooms, included breakfast, laundry service and a rooftop restaurant serving traditional Kenyan cuisine. We ordered the coconut fish, ugali with sukuma, a rolex and masala fires. Reserve on Booking.

Location Specifics

The Dry Season.  The best time to visit Kenya is from June to August during the dry season. It makes for the best time to spot wild game in the parks and reserves. The “Big Five,” Lions, Cheetah, Elephants, Rhino and Buffalo are most active during the cooler months while in search for water. This time of year also coincides with winter. Temperatures around Nairobi are chilly, ranging between lows of 50F to highs of 70F. 

Right vs Left Hand.  The right hand is used for everything from eating, receiving or giving and greeting people. The left hand is considered dirty and used for personal hygiene. Avoid using it when interacting with others or eating. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water in Nairobi not safe to drink unless boiled or treated. Generally stick to filtered or bottled water for drinking, brushing teeth and cooking with. 

Tipping.  Tipping when dining out is not expected however leaving 10% is greatly appreciated for good service. Tipping tour guides, drivers, cooks and porters a safaris is expected. In general, plan to tip the equivalent of $10 USD per day per guide and $5 USD per day per cook, porter and driver. 

Cash vs Card.  Businesses in Nairobi are mostly cash free, accepting credit other than debit card payments. Still, it’s valuable to carry Kenyan Shillings incase card is not accepted. 

General Safety.  Nairobi is rough around the edges. Be aware of your surroundings and maintain a low profile. Don’t walk around alone or in unfamiliar areas at night. Don’t wear jewelry or name brands. Don’t openly carry valuables like phones or cash. Avoid taking photos on the streets or of people. Dismiss people that approach you on the street. Avoid protests, police and any situation that could lead to confrontation.

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Kenyan laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Pre-Airport Security Check.  Before entering the airport, there is a roadside security check. Passengers have to pass through metal detectors while their bags are scanned or sniffed by dogs. It’s common practice in East Africa. 

Language.  English is commonly spoken across Kenya. Many people also speak Swahili, an East African language. 

Swahili Phrases 

Jambo.  A common greeting. When someone says Jambo, respond back with Jambo as a sign of mutual respect. 

Mambo.  A more informal version of Jambo. It’s often said amongst friends. 

Karibu.  A greeting meaning welcome or used as you’re welcome.

Asante.  Thank you. 

Asante Sana.  Thank you very much. 

Hakuna Matata.  To quote the Lion King, it means “no worries” or no troubles. It is a genuine Swahili phrase though mostly said between locals and travelers. 

Getting Around 

Bolt or Uber.  Both ride hailing apps are popular and readily available across Nairobi. Bolt is generally cheaper. Uber specifically has an affordable ride option called Chap Chaps for short distances within the city. We used them to get around everywhere we needed to go. 

For Next Time…

Next time we visit Kenya, we plan to explore the country’s coastal towns, its highest mountain and largest lake. 

Mt. Kenya.  The second highest mountain peak in Africa and tallest in Kenya. It’s surrounded by hiking trails, campgrounds and forest reserves. We plan to return and camp overnight along the extinct volcano’s trails. 

Lake Victoria.  A vast freshwater lake boarding Kenya, Rwanda, Uganda and Tanzania. 

Mombasa Old Town.  An old town in the port city of Mombasa. Its history and streets have been shaped by a range of colonial powers and influences including the British, Portuguese, Persian, Arab and Indian. 

Lamu Old Town.  A historic coastal city and one of the oldest Swahili settlements in East Africa.