Rwandan Roadtrip

Rwandan Roadtrip

Rwanda is a small East African country known as the land of 1,000 hills. It’s home to lush farmland, mountainous rainforests, sprawling savannas, great lakes and volcanos. Encounters with endangered primates like gorillas, chimpanzees and golden monkeys attract eco-tourists from across the world. The country’s cultural identity and history are on display at museums, galleries and memorials. We spent a week road-tripping across the country, experiencing its natural beauty, extraordinary animals and local culture. 

Observe the Local Culture

One of the most eye-opening parts about driving in Rwanda was observing the local culture. People work hard cultivating farmland and transporting goods to markets in rural villages. The roadsides are consistently buzzing with people. Women carry bunches of bananas, baskets of produce and sacs of goods on their heads. Men ride and push bicycles overloaded with bundles of sugarcane, silver canisters of milk and bags of goods. Children fill jerry cans with fresh water from wells and roll wheels with sticks for leisure. 

Kigali, Rwanda 

Kigali is the vibrant capital city of Rwanda. Its modern neighborhoods and densely populated communities sprawl across the landscape’s rolling hills. Their warm tones glow by day and white lights twinkle by night. It’s a verdant place with palm lined boulevards, flowering trees and manicured bushes. The country’s culture is expressed through its people, goods, cuisine and history. Shops sell handmade crafts and African goods. Seasonally farmed produce is sold at local markets. Women dress in colorfully patterned clothes. Restaurants serve Rwandan cuisine while cafes brew Rwandan coffee. The people look towards the future while remembering the 1994 Genocide. 

Sights 

Kigali Genocide Memorial.  A memorial and historical museum dedicated to the victims of the 1994 genocide. The museum is organized by section. It teaches about the root causes and colonial divisions that lead to the genocide. It details the history and atrocities prior to and during. It honors the victims and those that stood up to terror as it ensued. It explains the steps post genocide to heal Rwanda and hold accountable those responsible. Lastly, it calls on upon humanity act to prevent future genocides. Mass graves containing the remains of a quarter million people murdered during the genocide are laid to rest here. They’re surrounded by symbolic gardens dedicated to the victims. More than 200 other memorial sights across the country serve as a stark reminder of the atrocities. 

Pro Tip.  Pay for an audio guide to learn more from the memorial and museum.

Belgian Peacekeepers Memorial.  A memorial for 10 Belgian peacekeepers killed during the early hours of the 1994 Genocide. The bullet riddled building is the sight of the massacre. It is preserved and partially converted in a museum recounting the timeline of the tragedy. A stone monument honors and remembers the peacekeepers live.  Entrance is by donation. 

Inema Arts Gallery.  A small arts center and gallery with pieces made by East African and Rwandan artists. Many of the works explore cultural identity, ancestry and heritage. Several pieces are made using, Bark Cloth, the outer layer of the ficus tree. The gallery also features traditional wooden masks, furniture and sculptures. 

Kigali Car Free Zone.  A walking street and plaza lined with kiosks and shops selling Rwandan handicrafts and Rwandan street food. There is no shortage of carved wooden gorillas and similar themed objects like chess sets, walking sticks and furniture. Merchants sell African masks, woven baskets, cow hide drums, colorful handmade jewelry, home decor, patterned clothing and culturally inspired paintings. Cafes serve cups of Rwandan coffee, croissants, chapati rolls and samosas. 

Biryogo Car Free Food Street.  A painted walking street lined with dozens of Rwandan, Arabian and South Asian restaurants. Tables, chairs and umbrellas flood the street as hosts advertise and compete for business. It’s a hyper local spot to taste Rwandan cuisine and regional flavors. We ate at Visit Rwanda, a restaurant serving a range of local dishes and fresh fruit juices. We ordered the Nile perch fish brochettes, vegetarian imvange amashaza, spiced rice pilau, tree tomato and passion fruit juices. Visit on Saturday night for the liveliest experience.  

Good to Know.  Most restaurants are cash only. Vegetarian versions of local dishes are hard to come by. The street is in the Arab Quarter, resultantly, alcohol sales are forbidden. 

Kimironko Market.  Kigali’s central marketplace is a hub for locals and affordable goods. Inside a dimly lit yellow shed is a bustling farmers market with towering piles of vegetables and produce. It took our eyes a few minutes to adjust before truly appreciating the vast selections. Barrels overflow with dried beans and grains. Tables are covered with heaps of carefully stacked fruits and vegetables. Leafy greens and herbs blur into a singular mass. Bunches of bananas and plantains rest at the end of aisles. The smell of dirt wafts from the potatoes and root vegetables. Friendly vendors greeted us with “hello customer, buy something?” The building is surrounded by red dirt roads and stands selling miscellaneous goods like clothes, shoes, furniture, hardware and fabrics.

Mount Kigali Forest.  A forested mountain in the center of Kigali with nature trails, wild velvet monkeys and partial city views. Dirt roads lead up its hillside through local communities to the entrance of the forest. Unmarked trails weave through the forest while city views are visible from the dirt road between it and the communities below. 

Getting Here.  Follow KN229 Street to reach the forest. The steep and rocky street is lined vendors selling home grown produce and charcoal. People were curious about us and very friendly, often smiling in response to us saying Muraho, hello in Kinyarwanda. 

Good to Know. The top of the mountain has a field with communications towers and a military base. We wandered here but were turned around by soldiers. It’s best to avoid.

Volcanos National Park

Volcanos National Park is the last remaining habitat for the endangered Silverback Gorillas and Golden Monkeys. The park is covered in a crest of tree covered volcanos, straddling the boarders of Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Eco hotels are built between farmland just outside of the park. The Rwanda Development Board offers eco tours to see the primates in their natural habitat. They’re highly protected and require an advance permit to visit. 

Golden Monkey Trekking.  The Golden Monkeys are an endangered species native to the Volcano National Park. They live in the forested lowlands surrounding the volcanos and feed on endemic patches of bamboo. Just over 3,000 golden monkeys remain in the wild. Our guides tracked a troop of 70 to an area along the boarder of the park. We spent over an hour observing them in their natural habitat. Their cute and puffy faces glimpsed at us spying on them. They jumped between bamboo stalks and nibbled on leaves. They showed off their golden backs while grooming each other. 

Good to Know.  We were required to wear medical masks to prevent spread of disease. Given their border location, trackers and armed guards followed us for added security. 

Gorilla Naming Place.  A large thatched monument of a family of Gorillas. The largest gorilla’s hands are outstretched, creating a platform for photos. Behind is a replica village with three thatched huts.

Buhanga Eco Park.  A historical sight used to anoint the past kings of Rwanda. Inside the forested park are moss covered lava rock walkways and platforms. They lead to a small cave where the heir to the throne would descend for the anointment ritual. Servants would cleanse him with water and leaves from the forest. He would be declared king upon exiting the cave. The park is only accessible by permit and guide from the Rwanda Development Board. 

Nyungwe Forest National Park

Nyungwe Forest National Park is a tropical rainforest in the high hills of Rwanda. Its lush canopy is home to 20 perfect of Africa’s primates including endangered chimpanzees. We spent a couple days here exploring the park and watching for wildlife. 

Kivu Belt Road.  The single road through the forest and between its visitor centers. It’s a hub for roadside wildlife spotting. We saw chimpanzees, olive baboons, forest antelopes, L'Hoest's and blue monkeys. The road is heavily patrolled by the military in response to conflict with neighboring Burundi and Democratic Republic of the Congo.

Uwinka Visitor Center.  A nature center in the middle of the forest with a canopy walk, zipline, coffee shop, eco hotel and hiking trails. It’s the main hub for many of the forest’s activities. 

Chimpanzee Trekking.  The Nyungwe Forest is home to a growing population of wild Chimpanzees. We trekked beneath its lush canopy to see them in their natural habitat. The sounds of birds singing and insects buzzing filled the morning air as daylight broke. Trackers led the way as we hiked trails, through the thick jungle and down steep slopes. After a couple kilometers, we spotted a family of four chimps in a towering tree. They climbed and swung between branches while feeding on berries. A baby chip stuck close to its mother while learning to climb on its own. We continued further into the jungle, spotting a tree with several more chimps nomming on its leaves. Tropical birds like hornbill toucans, colorful turacos and vibrant sunbirds appeared around is while we quietly watched. 

Pro Tip.  Ants are everywhere when trekking through the jungle. Wear hiking gaiters or long socks over your pant legs to avoid painful bites. 

Nyungwe Canopy Walk.  A series of three suspension bridges above the treetop canopy. The central bridge has panoramic views of the jungleous forest, parasol trees and layers of hilly ridges. It’s reachable from the Uwinka Visitor Center along the Igishigishigi Trail, a 2.1km loop through the forest. 

Nyungwe Night Walk.  A two hour nighttime walk through the forest to spot nocturnal animals. We trekked the Igishigishigi Trail with red lamps in hopes of seeing flying squirrels and bush babies. Unfortunately we didn’t have any luck spotting many animals outside of seeing a few bats. 

Kitabi Eco Center Hotel.  An eco lodge on the edge of Nyungwe Forest with a half dozen thatched huts and a restaurant. The huts have an authentic feeling, designed in the traditional style of the Rwandan king’s palace. The hotel and restaurant overlook steep hills and valleys planted with rows of tea. Our stay included complementary breakfast each morning: eggs, fruit and the local flat bread. We enjoyed dinner around a coal camp fire and watched European football with a group of locals. Reserve on Booking. 

Good to Know. All trails and activities within the forest need to be accompanied by a guide. Park permits and activities can be booked and paid for in advance with Visit Nyungwe. 

Pro Tip. Wear layers. It gets cold with temperatures ranging from high 40s F to low 60s F (5C - 15C).

King’s Palace Museum

The King’s Palace Musuem is showcases the modern and traditional homes of Rwanda’s past kings, the country’s royal cows and cultural board games. 

The Traditional Palace.  A replica of the royal tribal village. At its center is a large thatched hut made from woven and braided grasses. Its domed interior feels like an upside down basket with rooms divided by wooden columns and woven panels. The floor is layered with dried grasses and thatched rugs. A ficus bark blanket covers an elevated bedroom platform. It’s circled by a reeded fence and multiple small huts. Each surrounding hut had their own purpose such as storing milk or beer.

The Modern Palace.  A residence built in the early 20th century for the Rwandan King. It featured living quarters and formal decorated with painted fireplaces, tribal patterns, antique furniture, hunting spears and historic photographs. 

The Royal Cows.  An endangered species of cows recognizable by their disproportionately large horns. A handler sang and presented them to us like would be traditionally done for kings. We petted fully grown and adults and several month old calfs. 

Igisoro.  A traditional two player strategy game where opponents “eat” or compete for each other’s pieces along a pitted board. We learned to play while sipping on African Coffee. 

Getting Here. The museum is located in Nyanza, halfway between Kigali and The Nyungwe Forest. 

Coffee Culture 

The coffee culture in Rwanda is growing, both figuratively and literally! We visited a coffee farm, roastery and multiple cafes during our time here. 

African Coffee. A Rwandan style coffee made with espresso, ginger, steamed milk and occasionally chocolate.

Huye Mountain Coffee.  A coffee farm with over 7,000 trees, a processing factory, small roastery and roadside cafe. We toured the farm, learning more about the history of coffee, the farm’s organic growing methods and hand processing. Once grown and harvested, the fruits are skinned, fermented, dried and sorted into green coffee for export. The roasted coffee is only sold in Rwanda and at their cafe. We enjoyed a midafternoon caffeine fix before our drive back to Kigali. 

Places to Eat & Drink in Kigali 

Niyo Art Cafe.  An open air cafe with vibrant murals spanning the floor from the street to the interior. The dining area is decorated with patterned Rwandan textiles, sculptures, paintings and plants. Come here for coffee! 

Restaurant l’Epicurien.  A romantic restaurant serving traditional French dishes made using local Rwandan ingredients. The dining room is spread out amongst an atmospheric garden and indoor terrace. We enjoyed the Burgundy snails, a whole grilled tilapia and brochettes (skewers) of Nile Perch along with French wine.

Rwandan Cuisine 

• Ibihaza.  The national dish of Rwanda. It’s a hearty one pot stew made with pumpkin, beans, bell pepper, onions and garlic. 

• Agatogo.  A savory one pot stew made with green bananas, collared greens, spinach, tomato, bell peppers, onions and spices. It’s garnished with avocado and peanut crumble. 

• Brochettes.  Barbecued or fried skewers of meat like beef, goat, chicken or fish. 

• Imvange Amashaza.  Stewed peas mixed with potatoes, carrots, onions and spices accompanied by fresh avocado. It’s typically vegetarian. 

• Pilau.  An East African rice dish cooked with a range of warm spices like cardamom, cumin, turmeric, cinnamon and bay leaves. It’s served as a side or stand alone meal. 

• Tree Tomato.  A deep red egg shaped fruit with a tart flavor similar to raspberry. It’s eaten fresh, blended into juices and baked with pastries.  

• Ugali.  A commonly eaten white corn or cassava flour mash used to scoop stews by hand. Roll a small lump into a ball, press an indentation in the center and scoop using your right hand.  

• Chapati.  A type of roti used to scoop stews and curries by hand. They’re also used to make wraps and samosas.  

• Chips (French Fries).  A common side dish served with most meals made popular by the Belgian and French colonial influences.

Rwandan Beers

Rwanda has a growing beer culture with both traditional and modern brews. We sampled a few pints 

Banana Beer.  A traditional Rwandan drink made from banana juice, water, sugar, sorghum flour and yeast. It’s home brewed across the country. It’s often sold at local markets in small villages. 

Akarusho.  A commercial brand of banana beer. It’s described as a “sweet banana based alcoholic beverage.” It has a malty and semi sweet flavor with a hint of banana. 

Virunga.  The most popular craft beer in Rwanda. It comes in at least three variety: Silver, Gold and Mist.

• Silver.  A light and easy drinking lager. 

• Gold.  A flavorful lager with a subtle sweetness. 

• Mist.  A dark ale with a nutty and aromatic flavor. 

Where to Stay

Salama Village Kigali.  A small homestay in lush and quiet neighborhood of Kigali. Its rooms have shaded outdoor patios, access to a communal kitchen and a living room lounge. Reserve on Booking.

Driving in Rwanda

We loved driving in Rwanda due to freedom of exploration and getting to observe the local culture. It’s easy to get used to after the first day but like everywhere it has its pros and cons. 

• Pros:  Most roads double lane, smoothly paved, well maintained and illuminated at night. Cars are typically automatic. Locals drive on the right side of the road. 

• Cons:  Roadsides become congested with people carrying goods, large trucks can cause delays, motorbikes can be unpredictable. 

Traffic Cameras.  Speed limits are strictly enforced by traffic cameras across the country. Permanent camera are located every few kilometers while hidden cameras are nestled in bushes daily by police.  

Refueling.  Gas station attendants refuel vehicles for you. Credit card is typically accepted for payment. 

Car Rental.  We rented our car from Rent Car Rwanda. The car was dropped off and picked up from our accommodation in Kigali. The prices are very reasonable for a 4x4 SUV with insurance included. Reservations are made through WhatsApp and can be paid by card in person. 

Getting Around Kigali 

Move.  A taxi hailing app similar to Uber or Grab. It’s specific to Rwanda and one of the best ways of getting around Kigali affordably. The app can be glitchy, with issues reaching drivers and processing payments. 

Moto Taxi.  Moto taxis are the local way of getting around. They’re readily available in groups along the roadsides.

Good to Know 

Language.  Most people in Rwanda are trilingual. They speak their mother tongue Kinyarwanda as well as French and English. Some common words and phrases are:

• Muraho (mo-rah-ho) = Hello / Bonjour

• Murakoze (moo-rah-koh-zay) = Thank you / Merci 

• Urakoze (oo-rah-koh-zeh) = Thank you / Merci 

• Murabeho (moo-rah-bay-ho) = Good bye / Au revoir

• Muryoherwe (moo-yo-heh-weh) = Enjoy your meal / Bon appetit 

Cash vs Card.  Cash is preferred by most businesses. They accept Rwandan Franc and the US Dollar. Most places will accept credit card but for a transaction fee. 

 General Safety.  Kigali is one of the safest cities in Africa. People are kind, honest and respectful. We had no issues walking around by day or night. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Rwanda is one of the few African country’s where homosexuality is legal. There are no laws against discrimination and public opinion is generally unfavorable of same sex relationships. Read more on our article about LGBTQ+ Travel Safety. 

Plastic Bags.  Rwanda is serious about conservation. Plastic bags are banned across the country which strict enforcement to prevent littering. Hardly a single piece of trash litters the streets or roadsides.

The 1994 Genocide.  The genocide is a horrific and recent part of the country’s past. Treat the topic with the utmost care and respect. Avoid conversations regarding people’s ethnic groups. 

Pre-Airport Security Check.  Before entering the airport, there is a roadside security check. Passengers have to pass through metal detectors while their bags are scanned or sniffed by dogs. It’s common practice in East Africa. 

For Next Time…

Gorilla Trekking in Volcano National Park.  Traveling on a budget, we prioritized seeing Rwanda’s other primates. When we return, visiting the gorillas will be top of mind. 

Volcano Hiking.  We plan to hike at least one of the volcanoes in the Volcano National Park boarding Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo like Mount Bisoke and it’s crater lake as well and Mount Sabyinyo and the tri-boarder point. 

Lake Kivu.  Rwanda may be land locked but it’s flanked by one of Africa’s Great Lakes, Lake Kivu. Its shores are ideal for hiking, bird watching and water sports. 

Safari in Akagera National Park.  Having gone on safari in Kenya and Tanzania on our trip through East Africa, we opted out of going on safari in Rwanda. Next time we return we plant to visit Akagera National Park to see its landscapes and wild game. 

Nairobi, Kenya

Nairobi, Kenya

Nairobi is a place where urban life and the African wild meet. Kenya’s capital city is a hub for big game safaris with access to national parks and reserves. City museums feature exhibits on Maasai culture, restaurants serve local cuisine, cafes brew Kenyan coffee and markets sell East African artistry. We explored the city and ventured across the country’s rich landscapes on an unforgettable safari! 

Central Business District.  The historic heart of the city with bustling streets, roadside vendors, artisan markets, landmark buildings and modern skyscrapers. Stay alert here as it can often be the sight of large protests and demonstrations. 

Ngara.  A central neighborhood that offers a glimpse into local life. The streets are bustling with people on foot, commuting in graffitied buses and shopping at roadside tents displaying produce, fruits, clothes and shoes.

Westlands.  A polished neighborhood with modern high rises, higher end restaurants, office buildings and luxurious hotels. It’s one of the safest areas of the city.

Gigiri.  A tree covered neighborhood surrounded by city parks and home to a large number of embassies, foreign expats and restaurants. 

Sights

Nairobi National Museum.  A museum dedicated to the societal, natural and human histories of Kenya. Societal exhibits recount the pre-colonial, colonial and independent histories of Kenya, including that of the country’s many tribes, regions, traditions and folklore. A natural history exhibit displays mounted animals categorizing some of Kenya’s many native species. A particular, though tragic, highlight is Sudan, the last male Northern White Rhino. Kenya is known as the Cradle of Humanity for its fossil records of the earliest humanoids. Exhibits feature skeletons and skulls representing human evolution, the most significant being the Turkana Boy, a complete skeleton of a 1.6 million year old Homo Erectus. 

Kaura Forest.  A large city park and protected forest with nature trials, wildlife, waterfalls and caves. We spent an afternoon meandering through the forest trails brimming with blue, yellow, emerald and orange butterflies. A troop of Mantled Guereza, a black monkey identifiable by their bushy white tails long fringe like hairs, jumped between treetops. Pairs of Suni, a small type of antelope foraged on the forest floor. 

• Karura Waterfalls.  A three tiered waterfall flowing from a chocolate colored river in the middle of the forest. 

• Mau Mau Caves.  A series of riverside caves downstream from the waterfall. They have been used by indigenous peoples dating back hundreds of years. 

• Good to Know.  Admission costs a small fee from any of the park entrances. 

Giraffe Centre.  A conservation center for Rothschild Giraffes with a viewing platform and feeding station. We stood face to face with the giraffes, admiring their towering bodies, exotic patterns and cute expressions up close. Their warm grey tongues licked fibrous pellets them our fingers. Warthogs ran around their long legs feeding on fallen scraps. Adult giraffes and calfs walked around the tree covered meadow and nature trails beyond. The center is famed for the Giraffe Manor, an ivy covered stone estate converted into a bed and breakfast for high paying guests to visit with giraffes. 

Markets

Nairobi City Market.  An eclectic market in the Central Business District with shops selling African goods, fresh flowers and meats. Friendly vendors invite you to take a look at their African handicrafts like wooden animal statues, beaded masks, leather sandals, landscape paintings, colorful woven textiles, baskets and bags. Between the things shops are a couple small produce stands. The exterior of the building is painted with murals and patterns representing the country.  Fragrant flower stands line the sidewalks surrounding the building. A meat market with butchers, fish mongers and strong smells occupies the side of it. 

Maasai Market.  A traditional handicrafts market consisting of local vendors selling handmade Kenyan and Maasai goods. Aisles of tents line a parking lot, each merchandised with a variety of items. We saw stone and wooden statuettes of animals, Maasai beaded jewelry and masks, wooden kitchenware and serveware, colorful and patterned textiles, natural woven bags and baskets, African spears and shields, brass metalwork and canvas paintings. We left purchasing a shoulder bag, two rings, beaded jewelry, a cooking paddle and a bird statuette. 

• How to Works. The market is intimidating at first. Before reaching it, several men surrounded and followed us inside. They do not leave you alone, tell you any prices or let you purchase directly from vendors. Instead, they act as “chaperones,” collecting items from vendors that you select. After walking you through the market, they display all of the goods you selected and make an outrageous offer. 

• Haggle.  Now the haggling begins! Counter with an offer between 10-20% of their asking price. Let them make you a “special price” but hold firm on your offer. The price will continue to drop, especially as you walk away. They want to make a sale after chaperoning you through the market. Let them win a little and go up 10% from your first offer. They’ll grudgingly agree, smile and offer a handshake. Do not pay more than 20-25% of their initial asking price. They’ll accept cash or credit card. 

• Pro Tip.  You can see and purchase many of the same goods at roadside shops across the country. If going on a safari, you will inevitably find yourself in one during rest stops. Save yourself some hassle and purchase goods from here.

Nairobi National Park

A national park and protected wildlife reserve on the edge of Nairobi. It’s home to a wide range of African animals while still in view of the city’s skyline. We went on a half day safari through the park, its vast savanna and grasslands. 

The Big Five.  The “Big Five” in Africa refers to the most difficult big game animals to spot on foot. We spotted three of the five during our safari, including rhinos, buffalo and a lion! A solo Lion walked slowly along the park’s dirt road as we observed from our safari truck. A pair of Cape Buffalo, recognizable by their dramatic horns feed in the grass. A critically endangered Black Rhino lurked in the bush. It offered us a fierce yet cute stare with its pointed horn and wiggling ears. A crash of threatened Southern White Rhinos stood in the savanna and several more slept near the road. We passed up close enough to hear them breathing.

Herds of Animals.  The constant herds of animals were an unbelievable sight! Black and white striped zebras, patterned giraffes, horned impalas, antelopes and hartebeests gathered throughout the reserve. A white rhino even surprised us as it walked from beyond a bush as we watched a tower of giraffes graze. 

Wild Game.  We spotted several other wild game on our safari. A lone hyena and curious jackals ran through the bush. A solo wildebeest tried to blend within a large dazzle of zebras. A warthog nestled in the grass. A troop of baboons sat grooming each other. A family of Roxk Hyrax, a tailless rodent, crawled over rocks. 

African Birds.  The park is home to native Kenyan and East African birds. We spotted varying species from the world’s largest to small and colorful birds. Ugandan Cranes with crowned heads stood near watering holes. Dozens of Guinea Fowl, a wild chicken, ran along the roadside. Vibrant blue and orange kingfishers rested on shrubs. Vultures watched from tree tops. Towering ostriches strutted across the savanna.

Watering Holes.  Watering holes are great gathering spots to observe wild game. Crocodiles lurked at the waters edge as a zebras drank and a flock of African Ibis landed nearby. Adult and baby hippos lounged in water, poking their large heads and backs above the surface.

Book a Safari.  A guided safari is the best way to visit the Nairobi National Park. We booked our Safari with Live in Love Kenya Tours and Travel. It included a guide and transportation in a 4x4 Safari Land Cruiser with a pop up roof. 

Good to Know.  Park entrance fees are not typically included in safaris and need to be paid separately. The animals and game are purely wild and can only be viewed from safari vehicles. They’re not lured or baited. It’s forbidden to get out of safari vehicles due to safely. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Nana Swahili Restaurant.  A Kenyan restaurant with a range of East African dishes. We dined here our first night in Nairobi, ordering two stews eaten by hand with Ugali and Chapatis. Try the red snapper cooked in coconut curry and maharagwe ya nazi, kidney beans cooked in a coconut béchamel. 

Connect Coffee.  A coffee shop and roastery with house roasted Kenyan coffee and fresh baked pastries. Try their hand brewed coffees or their specialty, Mt. Kilimanjaro, a layered coffee made with espresso, cream and chocolate.

Hero Restaurant & Bar.  A super hero themed bar on a roof top overlooking the Gigiri neighborhood and Nairobi skyline. The interior is painted in murals of superhero’s and chairs are embellished with their logos. Order cocktails from their superhero and sidekick inspired menu printed on a comic book. It’s been rated as one of the Top 50 Bars in the world. Try the Captain’s Tea, Highly Sassy, Kijabe Kayama or Plantain Old Fashioned. 

Rosina’s.  A Swahili and Indian fusion restaurant. Ordered a curried and spiced seafood platter to share with lobster, calamari, crab, oysters, shrimp and fish. It came with Kenyan chipati and a spread of sauces. For dessert, a saffron icecream with peanuts, chia, jellies and noodles. 

Kenyan Cuisine

Kenyan cuisine is flavorful, fresh and aromatic. A staple of the cuisine are various forms of one pot dishes. We tasted and cooked several local meals consisting of hearty grains, warm spices, a range of vegetables. 

• Ugali.  A commonly eaten white corn flour mash used to scoop stews and curries by hand. Roll a small lump into a ball, press an indentation in the center and scoop using your right hand.  

• Chapati.  A type of roti used to scoop stews and curries by hand. 

• Sukuma Wiki.  A dish made from sautéed collared greens or spinach, onions, tomatoes and spices. It’s eaten by hand with Ugali. 

• Kachumbari.  A salad made with chopped tomatoes, red onions and chili peppers. 

• Pilau.  A hearty and flavorful “one pot” rice dish made with aromatic spices, onions, tomatoes, potatoes and a protein like beef, chicken or soy. 

• Matoke.  A one pot dish made with stewed green bananas, vegetables and a range of savory spices. 

• Githeri.  A stew made from corn, beans, arrowroot and a mix of aromatic spices. It’s eaten with Ugali. 

• Rolex.  A chipati with an omelette rolled up inside. It gets its name from the phrase, “rolled eggs.”

• Samosas.  A common snack across Kenya brought over by Indian influences. The dough packets are stuffed with spices, potatoes and peas.

• Ugi.  A hearty porridge made from finger millet grains and warm spices. It’s a common breakfast dish across East Africa. 

• Mandazi.  Fried donuts made from puff pastry and a hint of cardamom. They’re eaten with coffee or tea. 

• Bush Honey.  Wild flower honey produced by bush bees. It has a dark color and very floral flavor. 

• Chai.  A black milk tea brewed with warm spices like pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, ginger and coriander. 

• Tusker Beer.  One of Kenya’s national beers. Its logo is of a tusker African elephant. Try the lager and cider. 

Where to Stay

Mushembi Airbnb.  We stayed in a two bedroom apartment in Ngara with a kitchen and in unit laundry. It was a comfortable and spacious place with Kenyan decor including beaded masks, woven baskets, colorful textiles and wooden animal sculptures. 

Khweza Bed and Breakfast.  A centrally located and affordable hotel with comfortable rooms, included breakfast, laundry service and a rooftop restaurant serving traditional Kenyan cuisine. We ordered the coconut fish, ugali with sukuma, a rolex and masala fires. Reserve on Booking.

Customs & Helpful Info

Right vs Left Hand.  The right hand is used for everything from eating, receiving or giving and greeting people. The left hand is considered dirty and used for personal hygiene. Avoid using it when interacting with others or eating. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water in Nairobi not safe to drink unless boiled or treated. Generally stick to filtered or bottled water for drinking, brushing teeth and cooking with. 

Tipping.  Tipping when dining out is not expected however leaving 10% is greatly appreciated for good service. Tipping tour guides, drivers, cooks and porters a safaris is expected. In general, plan to tip the equivalent of $10 USD per day per guide and $5 USD per day per cook, porter and driver. 

Cash vs Card.  Businesses in Nairobi are mostly cash free, accepting credit other than debit card payments. Still, it’s valuable to carry Kenyan Shillings incase card is not accepted. 

General Safety.  Nairobi is rough around the edges. Be aware of your surroundings and maintain a low profile. Don’t walk around alone or in unfamiliar areas at night. Don’t wear jewelry or name brands. Don’t openly carry valuables like phones or cash. Avoid taking photos on the streets or of people. Dismiss people that approach you on the street. Avoid protests, police and any situation that could lead to confrontation.

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Kenyan laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Pre-Airport Security Check.  Before entering the airport, there is a roadside security check. Passengers have to pass through metal detectors while their bags are scanned or sniffed by dogs. It’s common practice in East Africa. 

Language.  English is commonly spoken across Kenya. Many people also speak Swahili, an East African language. 

Swahili Phrases 

Jambo.  A common greeting. When someone says Jambo, respond back with Jambo as a sign of mutual respect. 

Mambo.  A more informal version of Jambo. It’s often said amongst friends. 

Karibu.  A greeting meaning welcome or used as you’re welcome.

Asante.  Thank you. 

Asante Sana.  Thank you very much. 

Hakuna Matata.  To quote the Lion King, it means “no worries” or no troubles. It is a genuine Swahili phrase though mostly said between locals and travelers. 

When to Visit

The Dry Season.  The best time to visit Kenya is from June to August during the dry season. It makes for the best time to spot wild game in the parks and reserves. The “Big Five,” Lions, Cheetah, Elephants, Rhino and Buffalo are most active during the cooler months while in search for water. This time of year also coincides with winter. Temperatures around Nairobi are chilly, ranging between lows of 50F to highs of 70F. 

Getting Around 

Bolt or Uber.  Both ride hailing apps are popular and readily available across Nairobi. Bolt is generally cheaper. Uber specifically has an affordable ride option called Chap Chaps for short distances within the city. We used them to get around everywhere we needed to go. 

For Next Time…

Next time we visit Kenya, we plan to explore the country’s coastal towns, its highest mountain and largest lake. 

Mt. Kenya.  The second highest mountain peak in Africa and tallest in Kenya. It’s surrounded by hiking trails, campgrounds and forest reserves. We plan to return and camp overnight along the extinct volcano’s trails. 

Lake Victoria.  A vast freshwater lake boarding Kenya, Rwanda, Uganda and Tanzania. 

Mombasa Old Town.  An old town in the port city of Mombasa. Its history and streets have been shaped by a range of colonial powers and influences including the British, Portuguese, Persian, Arab and Indian. 

Lamu Old Town.  A historic coastal city and one of the oldest Swahili settlements in East Africa.