O’ahu, Hawaii

Aloha from O’ahu!

Aloha from the Hawaiian Island of O’ahu! O’ahu is an adventurous destination for active vacations and leisurely itineraries. The ocean invites surfers to ride breaking waves and snorkelers to spot marine life in lively coral reefs. Hikers take to rigorous trails along mountains ridges, volcanic craters and lush forests. Sunny days are made for relaxing on pristine beaches, sipping mai tais and watching sunsets. Vibrant rainbows arch over the skyscrapers of Honolulu after tropical showers. 

Honolulu

Honolulu is a big city with tropical vibes and access to some of the O'ahu’s best beaches, hiking trails and farmers markets. Its neighborhoods and streets are hubs for Hawaiian culture, cuisine and nightlife. 

Waikiki.  Famed for its palm lined beaches, luxury high-rises and oceanfront hotels, Waikiki is at the center of Honolulu. It’s an energetic place popular with both travelers and islanders. Many visit to relax at its beaches, shop the busting streets, sip cocktails at tiki bars, order from food trucks and dine at restaurants. 

Kalākaua Ave.  Brimming with luxury brands, clothing boutiques, souvenir stores, surf shops and hotels, Kalākaua Ave. is the commercial artery of Waikiki. It comes to life each night with an eclectic mix of street performers, tarot card readers, karaoke stands, typewriter poets, bible salesmen, human statues and exotic animals. 

Chinatown.  A historic neighborhood known locally for its weekend nightlife scene and authentic Chinese restaurants. The most lively area is on Hotel St. between Smith St. and Nuuamu Ave.

Relax on the Honolulu’s Beaches 

Honolulu is a famed beach destination lined with sandy shores, turquoise waters, surf breaks and coral reefs. Its beaches offer a range of places to enjoy the island vibes. 

Waikiki Beach.  Palm trees and luxury hotels line the beach’s golden sands and aquamarine waters. It’s a paradise for sunbathing, swimming and water activities. Vacationers sip on tropical cocktails and couples watch picturesque sunsets. Surfers take lessons and ride gentle waves. Rowers experience the “Hawaiian roller coaster ride” on outrigger canoes. Catamarans ferry passengers on sightseeing tours along the coast.

Surf Rentals.  Rent surf boards from Moku Hawaii, a nearby surf shop with better priced boards than those available on Waikiki Beach. They also provide secure storage for personal belongs. 

Kapaemahu (The Stones of Life).  A sacred spot in Hawaiian folklore marked by four lava stones at Waikiki Beach. They’re believed to hold the healing knowledge brought to the islands by Polynesian healers. The full story can be learned by watching Kapaemahu, an animated short film. 

Queens Beach.  The tan sand beachfront along Waikiki’s southern end is a relaxing place to gather with friends. The beach attracts volleyball players and onlooking sunbathers. Meanwhile snorkelers search for tropical in the reef and along the pier. A boardwalk leads to the nearby Barefoot Beach Cafe offering Hawaiian bites. 

Fort DeRussy Beach.  The shoreline of Fort DeRussy Beach is a laid back place away from the crowds of Waikiki. It’s a spacious spot to sunbathe, enjoy a swim and view the Friday night fireworks. Walk the boardwalk to the Koa Oasis Booze Shack for a variety of takeaway cocktails garnished with orchids. 

Magic Island.  An artificial peninsula with a lush city park and protected sandy lagoon. It’s a popular spot to picnic, gather with friends, watch the sunset and enjoy the Friday night fireworks. 

Waikiki Friday Fireworks.  Weekends in Waikiki kick off with a firework show, held on the beach of the Hilton Hotel every Friday at 7:45pm. The show is visible from multiple places including Magic Island and Fort DeRussy Beach. 

Places to Shop 

Waikiki is a popular shopping destination with countless places to shop. We shopped for Hawaiian goods like tropical clothes, surfboards, ukuleles and souvenirs. 

Surf Garage.  A reputable surf shop specializing is new and used surf boards and accessories. The family run shop is the perfect place for first time buyers or experienced surfers. They also ship to the “mainland.” 

Ukulele Puapua.  A tiny shop selling a range of Hawaiian ukuleles. They offer free 30 minute lessons to learn strumming basics. Reserve a spot a day in advance. 

Avanti Hawaii.  A clothing store specializing in vintage style Hawaiian prints utilized across silk Aloha shirts, dresses and accessories. 

Hawaii Hat Shack.  A small boutique near Waikiki Beach specializing in embroidered baseball caps, bucket hats and floppy beach hats. 

Vibrations 'Ohana.  A gay friendly clothing shop with vibrant and patterned shirts, low cut shorts and swim briefs.  

ABC Stores.  A chain convenience store selling snacks, beverages, beachwear and souvenirs. They’re located on practically every corner of Waikiki.  

Mai Tais & Tiki Bars 

The Mai Tai, considered the ultimate tropical cocktail is synonymous with Hawaiian resort culture. We sampled versions at about every tiki bar in Waikiki, coming up with a list of our favorites. 

Mai Tai Bar.  A beachfront bar at the historic Royal Hawaiian Hotel credited with inviting the Hawaiian Mai Tai, a twist on the classic made with pineapple juice in lieu of lime juice. 

Duke’s Waikiki.  A beach front bar with all around Hawaiian vibes. Order the Duke’s Mai Tai, their house version made with fresh fruit juices and rums. It was our favorite on the island! Buy a handmade floral lei from a vendor near the host stand after 7pm. 

Arnold’s Beach Bar.  An off the beaten path tiki bar with inexpensive tropical cocktails, live music and free popcorn. They make a perfectly balanced traditional Mai Tai. 

Rumfire.  A beachside hotel bar with tropical cocktails, Hawaiian pupus and flaming tiki torches. Come for their Mai Tai Flight with your choice of three different versions of the famed cocktail. 

Cuckoo Coconuts.  An umbrella covered parking lot turned restaurant and bar with tropical cocktails, fried bar food, live music and tiki vibes. Their House Mai Tai is more juicy than boozy but won’t fail to sneak up on you. 

Hula’s Bar & Lei Stand.  A tiki style gay bar in Waikiki popular with both locals and tourists. Visit mid day for their Happy Hour Mai Tai, returning later in the night for live music, drag performances, strong tropical cocktails and bar snacks like nachos. 

Skull & Crown Trading Co.  A speakeasy style tiki bar decorated with vintage nautical artifacts. Their menu features a range of signature cocktails like the  Dagger Mai Tai, made with “redacted ingredients.” Make a reservation!

Merriman’s.  An elevated restaurant known for their happy hour specials and inventive cocktails. Try the Merriman’s Mai Tai, their house version made with macadamia nut orgeat and lilikoi (passion fruit) foam. 

Tiki’s Bar & Grill.  A restaurant and bar overlooking the palm lined shores of Waikiki Beach. Tropical cocktails are served in take home tiki mugs. Order the Hula Girl Mai Tai with an extra rum shot for a boozy experience! To eat, try the Hawaiian pupus like coconut shrimp, poke wontons and seared tuna. 

Aloha Amigo.  A vibrant Mexican style cantina in Waikiki serving a range of traditional tacos. Pair an order with the Spicy Mezcal Mai Tai for a cocktail that blends Mexican and Hawaiian flavors. 

Places to Eat in Honolulu 

In addition to the menus at the above tiki bars and restaurants, there is no shortage of places to eat in Honolulu. From food-truck parks to beachfront cafes and high-end restaurants, here are some of our favorites:

The Sunrise Shack.  A healthy spot to begin the day with a smoothie bowl and strong coffee. Visit one of many locations around O’ahu. 

Musubi Cafe Iyasume.  A small cafe specializing in Hawaii’s famed Spam Musubi and Japanese Onigiri. Expect to see a line out the door for the flavorful snacks.

Sam's Kitchen.  A hidden poolside restaurant at the Bamboo Waikiki Hotel known for its garlic shrimp, a Hawaiian staple. Service may be slow but it’s worth the wait!

Maguro Brothers.  A seafood spot in a food hall specializing in freshly prepared sashimi platters and generously sized poke bowls. 

Maui Brewing Company.  A Hawaiian brewery offering a selection of craft beers made with island flavors like citrus, pineapple and toasted coconut. Sip on a pint or order a flight while listening to nightly live music over dinner. Try the macadamia nut encrusted mahi mahi.

Orchids.  An upscale restaurant at the Halekulani Hotel with a romantic dining room. It’s the perfect place to come for a celebratory dinner, glass of champagne and famed coconut chiffon cake. 

Hawaiian Aroma Caffe.  A cafe at the Beachcomber Hotel serving tropical waffles, acai bowls and Kona Coffee. 

Kai Coffee Hawai’i.  A coffee shop with bold and flavorful brews of Hawaiian coffee. Visit one of their locations across O’ahu for a macadamia nut or coconut latte. 

Island Vintage Shave Ice. Shave ice is a Hawaiian treat popular across the islands. Come here for tropical fruit flavors like lilikoi, coconut, lychee, yuzu, acai and mango. 

Barefoot Beach Cafe.  An oceanfront cafe near Queens Beach with vegan breakfast dishes, smoothie bowls and coffees. Hawaiian music plays throughout their outdoor patio as customers relax with a meal and drink. 

Waikiki Food Truck Park.  Food trucks are commonplace across O’ahu with some of the best variety being at the Waikiki Food Truck Park. The park brings together over two dozen food trucks offering everything from poke, tacos, barbecue, garlic shrimp, vegan meals, international dishes, bubble tea, churros and smoothies. Take food to-go or dine under the thatched umbrellas picnic tables. 

Diamond Head

Diamond Head is a residential neighborhood of Honolulu defined by its volcanic crater, recreational activities and weekend farmers market. 

Diamond Head Crater.  Towering above Waikiki is one of O’ahu’s most iconic sights, the Diamond Head Crater. A trail leads from the floor of the extinct volcano to its rim, switchbacking past lookout points until reaching the summit. Panoramic views look towards the skyscrapers of Honolulu and the gradient blue coast.

Reservations.  Non islanders need a reservation to visit the crater. Bookings can be made online with Hawaii State Parks up to 30 days in advance. 

Diamond Head Beach Park.  The secluded shores flanking Diamond Head Crater are the perfect place to sunbathe away from the crowds. Surfers catch waves breaking on the reef while snorkelers explore its underwater life. 

KCC Farmers Market.  One of Honolulu’s most beloved farmers markets attracts dozens of vendors and hundreds of visitors each week. Merchants sell locally produced goods including roasted macadamia nuts, raw honey, fresh fruits & vegetables, baked breads & pastries, jars of pickles & preserves, plants & cut flowers. Food stands serve Kona coffee, fruit juices, smoothie bowls, all types of mochi and a range of international street food. The market is held across from Diamond Head Crater every Saturday morning from 7:30-11am. 

Hawaii Kai

Hawaii Kai is an area spanning the southeast coast of O’ahu. It is a bustling area with access to protected bays, coastal formations, pristine beaches, volcanic craters and hiking trails. 

Koko Head.  A volcanic crater with rigorous and scenic hikes along its slopes and a botanical garden spanning its inner crater floor. 

Koko Crater Railway Trail.  Leading up the steep slopes of Koko Crater is an abandoned railway converted into a trail. Hikers use railroad ties like stairs to reach the summit with rewarding views of the island’s volcanic landscape and coastline. It’s a strenuous trek, taking about 30 minutes one way. 

Koko Crater Arch Trail.  Few hikes are as adventurous as the trek to the Koko Crater Arch! Begin by crawling through the Halona Beach lava tube, minding yourself, as it narrows towards the end. Exit the lava tube and scale up the rocky cliffs to reach the crest of the volcanic ridge. A trail leads along the crest to a golden patch of rock. Veer left before the steepest part to approach the arch from the side. 

Koko Crater Botanical Garden.  The floor of Koko Crater is home to a botanical garden with a variety of flora and fauna. A trail loops through groves of plumeria & hibiscus trees, gardens with desert cacti & dry palms and sections of Hawaiian & African plants. Wild mongooses roam free while red-crested cardinals fly between trees.

Hawaii Kai Lookout.  A roadside lookout with picturesque views of Koko Crater. Stop for a photo en route to or from Hanauma Bay. 

Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve.  The eroded crater of an extinct volcano frames the turquoise waters of Hanauma Bay. Beneath its surface are colonies of algae covered rocks, colorful corals and a variety of tropical fish, including endemic species only found here. Snorkel throughout the bay and relax onshore. 

• Good to Know.  Bring your own snorkel gear or rent it at the beach kiosk. Don’t wear fins in shallow waters to avoid kicking algae covered rocks and corals. Wear reef safe sunblock. 

• Tickets.  A limited number of visitors are allowed into the bay between Wednesday and Sunday. Tickets are released by the Department of Parks and Recreation at 7am two days in advance. Tickets often sell out within minutes. Be ready to book and prepare for a back up time and date if sold out.

Sandy Beach.  Aptly named for its golden sand shore, Sandy Beach is a relaxing place to swim, sunbathe and body surf. Pack a picnic or order poke, shaved ice and Hawaiian juices from the parking lot food truck. 

Halona Beach.  A small but adventurous beach nestled between jagged coastal cliffs near the Halona Blowhole. The tide creates a natural wave pool in the beach’s protected cove. A narrow lava tube leads from the beach to the Koko Crater Arch Trail.

Halona Blowhole Lookout.  A seaside lava tube that ferociously sprays seawater into the air during high tide and strong surf. It’s viewable from a roadside parking lot.

Makapu’u.  The far eastern tip of O’ahu is defined by its volcanic ridges, seaside landscapes and beaches. 

• Makapuʻu Beach Park.  Tan sand shores line the turquoise cove of Makapu’u Beach. It’s a popular spot for experienced body surfers and boogie boarders. A lookout on the volcanic cliffs offer sweeping views of the scenic beach and coastline. 

• Makapu’u Lighthouse Trail.  A paved walkway lined with scenic views of distant Hawaiian islands and the deep blue expanse of the Pacific Ocean. The trail ends at a lookout point of Makapu’u Beach and the Makapu’u Lighthouse. 

• Makapu’u Tide Pools.  Sea grasses, small corals and spiky urchins thrive in the shallow tide pools. Tiny fish swim and jump between pools while crabs scurry along lava rocks. Echos of crashing waves reverberate off volcanic cliffs while air rushes through blow holes and lava tubes. 

• Getting Here.  The rocky trail to the tide pools begins beyond the signs at the third lookout point along the Makapu’u Lighthouse Trail. 

China Walls.  The lava rock ledges and seaside cliffs of China Walls are a beloved place amongst locals. Hawaiians gather during golden hour to watch the sunset, vibe to island music, cliff jump and surf. We watched whales spouting and witnessed the green flash as the sun set below the horizon.

Kona Brewing Hawaii Kai.  The beers of Kona Brewing are a staple of the Hawaiian Islands. Their tap house in Hawaii Kai offers pints and flights of exclusive brews, seasonal flavors and drafts like Kona Big Wave or Longboard Lager. Try the pineapple topped Hawaiian pizza or sharable pupus. 

Leonard’s Bakery.  A bakery known for their flavorful Malassadas, a puffy Portuguese donut covered in cinnamon sugar and often filled with a custard or jam. They’re popular across O’ahu. Visit the historic location in Honolulu or their food truck in Hawaii Kai. 

Kailua

Kailua is a large beach town on O’ahu’s Windward Shore with lengthy white sand beaches, small offshore islets, scenic hiking trails and farmers markets. 

Kailua Beach.  Powdery white sand covers Kailua’s lengthy shoreline making it a tranquil place for beach walks and seaside picnics. Turquoise waters and ocean views invite beachgoers in for a swim and kayakers on a voyage to the Moku Islands.

Good to Know.  Beware of Portuguese Man-O-Wars on windy days. 

Moku Islands.  The Mokus are two protected islets and a sanctuary for seabirds, endangered Hawaiian monk seals and green sea turtles. Kayakers can land on Moku Nui, the larger of the two islets. On shore is a small sandy beach and rocky tide pool where sea animals lounge. The conical hillside is covered in burrows from nesting birds. Rent kayaks from Kailua Beach Adventuresfor half or full day excursions.

Lanikai Beach.  Palm trees sway above white sand shores while sunbathers bask in the sunshine. The Moku Islands rise from the turquoise hued waters as waves break beyond the reef. Colorful fish and green sea turtles swim between lively corals as snorkelers drift overhead.  

Lanikai Pillbox Trail.  A short but steep trail leads to a series of graffitied military bunkers perched on the volcanic ridge beyond Lanikai Beach. Lookout points boast picturesque views of the seaside neighborhood below and nearby Moku Islands. The trail continues further along the ridge with views of the island’s rugged interior. 

Good to Know.  Wear sturdy shoes and be cautious of the loose gravel. Park at Kailua Beach and walk to the trail head located at this Map Pin.

Hoʻomaluhia Botanical Garden.  Few places transport visitors to the Jurassic Period like O’ahu’s famed HoʻomaluhiaBotanical Garden. Cloud covered mountains, lush volcanic ridges and dense rainforest characterize the verdant landscape. Nature trails meander through tropical gardens to lakeside lookouts. 

Kailua Farmers Market.  Local vendors set up a weekly farmers market in the Kailua Town Center with a range of produce stands, mobile kitchens and live music. Come here to shop for fresh fruits, vegetables, herbs, baked goods, juices and international meals. The market is held each Thursday from 4-7pm. 

Kalapawai Market.  A chain of “small town markets” located along the Windward Side of O’ahu. Their aisles are stocked with snacks, beverages, beach goods and island decor. The Kailua location prepares sandwiches in their deli while the barista brews a range of hot and iced coffees. 

Ocean Excursions  

Moana’s Sunset Cocktail Sail Along Oahu's Waikiki Coast. Sunsets in Hawaii hit differently, especially on a boat! We boarded a catamaran as the crew served mai tais and margaritas. The boat cruised along the coast with the sail unfurled and Hawaiian music playing. The golden glow of the sun illuminated Waikiki’s skyline and the island’s rugged mountains. The sun began to set as bottlenose dolphins played in the bow waves if a scene from a movie. Book with Moana Sailing Co on Viator. 

Swim with Dolphins on the West Coast of O’ahu.  We joined the crew from Indigo Ocean Hawaii on a half day excursion from Waikiki to swim and snorkel with wild dolphins along Oahu’s Leeward Coast. A playful pod of Spinner Dolphins greeted us in the shallow waters outside of the marina. They porpoised one after another, occasionally jumping from the water and twirling into the air. After an hour at sea, a pod of Spotted Dolphins gathered in the deep open water. With snorkels on, we jumped from the boat and watched as they swam past. On the voyage back to the marina, migrating humpback whales sent spouts of water into the air before rising their tails and diving into the depths. Book on Viator. 

Getting Around

There are multiple ways of getting around O’ahu depending on where you’re staying and everything you plan to see. We primarily explored the city on foot and island by scooter. 

On Foot.  Waikiki is very walkable and an enjoyable way of exploring the neighborhood, getting to the beaches, shopping and discovering restaurants and bars. 

Scooter.  Vespas and Mopeds are the best individual way of getting around Honolulu and coast. We rented a pair of scooters from Waikiki Moped Rental, a reliable and well reviewed shop with affordable options. 

Good to Know.  Scooters are not allowed on the island’s main freeways or inner island highways: H1, H2, H3, 61 & 62. 

Uber.  Ride shares like Uber are ideal for getting between the airport and city as well as across town. Expect airport rides to cost $50 and city rides to cost between $10-$20. 

Rental Car.  Driving is best way to explore all areas of the island on your own time. Rentals, gas and parking are extremely expensive. 

Waikiki Trolly.  A tourist trolly offers routes to around Honolulu and the South Shore of O’ahu. Single and multi-day passes make getting around convenient if not renting a scooter or car. 

Where to Stay

Waikiki is a convent place to stay when visiting Honolulu. Its skyscrapers and beachfront hotels are home to countless vacation rentals and luxury accommodations. We split our time between two locations in Waikiki. 

Waikiki Monarch Hotel.  An apartment complex on the north side of Waikiki with hundreds of vacation rentals. Our comfortable unit had a small kitchen and ocean views. The building is a short walk away from the Waikiki Food Truck Park and Fort DeRussy Beach. Apartments are available for rent on Airbnb. 

Aloha Suites Waikiki.  A small hotel in the center of Waikiki with well equipped apartment rentals. Our unit had a full kitchen, outdoor balcony and high speed wifi. It’s located less than 5 minutes from Waikiki Beach. Apartments are available for rent on both Airbnb and Booking. 

When to Visit 

Early December.  The sweet spot to visit O’ahu is early December between Thanksgiving and Christmas. The crowds are smaller and the temperature is comfortable. Humpback whale begin their migration increasing the chances of seeing them anywhere around the island. 

For Next Time… 

The Hawaiian Islands keep calling us back! On our next trip to Hawaii we plan to rent a car and venture to the North Shore of O’ahu, visit Hawaiian cultural sights and make our way to the islands of Kauai and Maui.

• Haleʻiwa.  A colorful and historic town on the North Shore with small cafes, surf shops, boutiques and markets. 

• Waimea Bay Beach.  A North Shore beach with a large rock, popular for jumping from. It has a calm surf during the summer and big waves during the winter. Dolphins and sea turtles can frequently be spotted off shore.  

• Ko Hana Distillery.  O’ahu’s only sugarcane rum distillery. They offer tours, tastings and cocktails. 

• Pu'u o Mahuka Heiau.  The stone ruins and platforms of an ancient Hawaiian temple. It’s located walking distance from Waimea Bay Beach. 

• Bishop Museum.  Hawaii’s main cultural and natural history museum with Hawaiian artifacts, science exhibits and art galleries. 

A Weekend in Auckland

Auckland, New Zealand

Auckland is a sprawling city on the North Island of New Zealand. It’s a wonderful destination to experience Māori culture, taste local wines at island vineyards and hike an urban volcano. The city’s vibrant neighborhoods and waterfront wharfs provide opportunities for shopping, dining and sightseeing. We spent a weekend exploring Auckland during our adventurous roadtrip of the North Island. 

Neighborhoods & Streets 

Central Business District (CBD).  The downtown neighborhood of Auckland. It’s home to bustling streets, lively waterfront wharfs, historic buildings, multicultural restaurants and shopping arcades. 

Queen Street.  The central street of the CBD. Its historic architecture, small arcades and modern skyscrapers are home to big name stores, luxury brands and kiwi boutiques. Numerous restaurants, cafes and fast food joints offer places to enjoy a quick meal. 

Viaduct Harbour.  A bustling neighborhood centered around a boat dotted marina. Stroll the Māori patterned walkways while admiring the docked sailboats and skyline views. Dine at one of the many contemporary restaurants and harbor side bars. Join locals sunbathing on the tidal steps and splashing into the harbour pool. 

North Wharf.  A lively section of Auckland’s waterfront lined with a mixture of eateries, cafes and bars. Visit Goodluck Coconut, a tiki bar with boozy and flaming cocktails in Polynesian style mugs. 

Karangahape Road (K Road).  A vibrant street offering a mix of grungy cafes, vegan restaurants, vintage shops, tattoo studios, dive bars and lgbtq+ nightlife. A rainbow painted cross walk welcomes visitors to the diverse area.

St. Kevin’s Arcade.  A historic multilevel arcade between K Road and Myers Park. It’s home several cocktail bars, tiny restaurants and vintage shops. Visit Definitely Maybe for late night drinks and inventive cocktails in the candlelit bar.

See the Sights 

Maungawhau (Mount Eden).  The tallest of many dormant volcanos making up Auckland’s volcanic field. Trails and walkways lead to its summit with panoramic views of the city and stunning views of the sunset. A boardwalk leads around the crater rim with views peering into its conical depressions and the remnants of Māori agricultural terraces. The volcano is sacred to the Māori people. It was once the sight of precolonial Māori village and is believed to be home of Mataaho, the Māori guardian of earth’s secrets. 

Auckland Museum.  A museum with exhibits dedicated to the volcanic landscape of Auckland, New Zealand’s natural history and the island’s Māori culture. The volcanic exhibit recounts the island’s formation and ongoing volcanism. The natural history exhibit displays fossils and skeletons of dinosaurs, sea creatures and birds now extinct and native to New Zealand. The Māori exhibit recounts the Polynesian migration across the Pacific and displays objects and tools used to cultivate the land, trap fish and prepare food. 

Māori Cultural Experience.  A powerful cultural performance presented by Māori people. They shared their traditional dances followed by a heartfelt explanation of their meanings. A Māori orator recounts the origins of the Haka and its significance. She explains the movements and body language, the symbolism of their traditional attire and accessories, the meanings behind their tattoos and connection to their ancestry. The performance happens twice daily at the Auckland Museum. 

Good to Know.  Out of reverence for Māori culture and ancestors, photos and videos are not permitted during the performance. 

Auckland Domain.  A large park developed on of an extinct volcano in the middle of Auckland. It’s home to green lawns, treelined walkways, cricket fields, the Auckland Museum and Victorian style Wintergardens. 

Myers Park.  A city park in a valley flanked by skyscrapers. Steep grassy slopes and towering palm trees line a central walkway. 

Albert Park. A beautiful park with tree lined walkways and shaded lawns on a hill near the University of Auckland. It’s a popular spot where college students gather for leisure and study. 

Grafton Gully.  A verdant city park with trails leading through a historic cemetery and beneath an underpass. It’s not the prettiest place but does offer a very unique urban experience. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Ahi.  An elevated restaurant offering contemporary kiwi cuisine made from seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. We built our own tasting menu from their range of snacks, starters and mains. Try the whitebait, octopus, salmon and fire roasted leeks. Reservations are needed. 

Auckland Fish Market.  A market with fish mongers and restaurants serving raw and cooked seafood like pāua, mussels, prawns, whole and filleted fish. Try the “Seafood Heaven” at the Market Galley for an assortment of coconut prawns, snapper fish & chips and salt and pepper squid. Sip on local beers and cocktails from The Wreck. 

Honey Cafe.  A breakfast and brunch spot with an all day menu of sweet and savory dishes like bagels, burgers, toasts, salads and eggs. Try the salmon bagel and pea fritters paired with a long black or flat white.

Daily Bread.  A cafe and bakery with a large spread of pastries, sandwiches and breads. Try the cinnamon roll, peach danish and orange loaf. 

Giapo.  An ice cream shop with exotic flavors and fanciful shaped cones shaped like an octopus, bat or helicopter. Try the Hokey Pokey and Kūmara Orange.

Miann.  A sweets shop with creative pastries and cakes. Try the Triple Chocolatemade to look like a cocoa pod and Cactus Plant Pot, layered with a range of floral, nut and spiced flavors. 

Waiheke Island

A tranquil island home to verdant vineyards and sandy shores. It’s the perfect destination to combine wine tastings with beach time. The island is easily visited on a day trip from Auckland. 

Waiheke Vineyards

Cable Bay Vineyard.  A vineyard with a variety of wines made from grapes grown on the island and in New Zealand’s largest wine producing region, Marlborough. They offer a variety of tastings including their rosé, white and red varieties in their cellar tasting room. 

Wild Estate Vineyard.  A vineyard with an outdoor tasting room next to rows of grape vines. Come here to sip on their full bodied Waiheke Island wines and play lawn games like giant jenga, corn hole and even archery. 

Stoney Ridge Vineyard.  A winemaker specializing in full bodied and premium red wines with grapes grown on the island. Sip on their premium flight while overlooking the grassy valley. Don’t miss the 2021 Larose, regarded as New Zealand’s best wine. 

Batch Winery.  The highest elevation vineyard on the island with views of the hills and bay. Come here to sip on their bubbly  rosé while overlooking the landscape. 

Fullers 360 Ferry.  A ferry operator with routes between Auckland and Waiheke Island. Book their Western Explorer pass which includes a hop on hop off bus ticket around the western side of the island. It includes wine tastings at three vineyards. 

Beaches & Restaurants

Oneroa Beach.  A wide crescent shaped beach covered in sea shells. It’s a relaxing place to listen to the waves and walk along the shore. 

Ki Māna.  A seaside restaurant overlooking Onetangi Beach. Their menu offers elevated seafood dishes and local wines from near by vineyards. Try the oysters, fried snapper wings and crawfish rolls.

Location Specifics 

Language.  English is the most commonly spoken language in New Zealand. Māori is frequently written on street and road signs.  

Cash vs Card.  Credit card is accepted for virtually every payment. We did not need to use cash once.

Carry Your ID.  When ordering alcohol, be prepared to show your passport to verify your age. 

The Guardian.  The former stock exchange building converted into a mixed used residence with apartment rentals. It’s located in the CBD on Queen Street nearby restaurants, cafes and shops. Book on Airbnb. 

Elsewhere on the North Island

There is so much to see on New Zealand’s North Island outside of Auckland. We spent several days roadtripping between the lake towns of Rotorua and Taupō. We visited geothermal parks, hiked volcanic landscapes, white water rafted, tubed through glowworm caves, canopied in redwood forests and ate second breakfast at Hobbiton. 

For Next Time…

With more time in Auckland, we’d continue venturing outside of the city center to different neighborhoods, beaches and natural sights. 

Devonport.  A neighborhood continually recommended to us for its cute vibes, cafe culture, beaches and volcano hikes. 

Piha Beach.  A black sand beach on the western shore of the North Island with nearby hikes and lookout points.  

Little Palm Beach.  A clothing optional beach on Waiheke Island accessible via a forested walking trail

Stanmore Bay.  A beach town north of Auckland famed for its bioluminescent waves lapping on shore at night. 

Taupō, New Zealand

Taupō, New Zealand

Taupō is a picturesque town set along the shores of Lake Taupō on New Zealand’s North Island. The region is encompasses volcanic landscapes, geothermal parks and scenic waterfalls. It’s a hub for outdoor activities and adventures like white water rafting, sailing and volcano hikes. Taupō is deeply intertwined with Māori culture with murals, monuments and carvings visible throughout the town. 

See the Sights

Lake Taupō.  A massive volcanic crater lake and the largest lake in New Zealand. Scenic walking and biking paths follow its waterfront. Floating pumice stones and aquatic birds line its shores. Views of distant volcanos and their snow covered peaks can be seen across the lake on a clear day. 

Māori Rock Carvings.  A series of modern Māori rock carvings engraved onto the face of a lakeside cliff. The primary carving depicts the tattooed face of a Māori being. It’s flanked by numerous smaller carvings including a lizard, mermaid and dragon. The carvings are only viewable from the lake. We sailed across the scenic Lake Taupō on a vintage sailboat to see them up close. Book with Sail Barbary for a relaxing and enjoyable time. 

Te Atea Tapuaeharuru.  A monument representing Māori ancestry and jurisdiction of Lake Taupō. At its center is an ornate pillar carved from an 1,800 year old Totara tree. The pillar is adorned with designs of Māori guardians and marine life. Surrounding it are 13 patterned columns symbolic of the rivers flowing into the lake. Press a button on each of their sides to activate a cascading water feature. 

Huka Falls.  A narrow channel along the Waikato River with extremely turbulent rapids and a ferocious waterfall. The current churns up brilliant aquamarine hues and bubbling white waters. It’s viewable from a bridge and riverside pathway.

Otumuheke Stream.  A narrow stream fed by a hot spring. It flows into the Waikato River creating a tepid pool along its banks. It was too cold for us but others enjoyed. 

Mount Tauhara.  A dormant volcano near the shores of Lake Taupō with a summitable peak. A hiking trail leads steadily uphill through farmland and shaded forest home to song birds and endemic ferns. It opens at a clearing near the summit and continues along the ridge through dense shrubs to a rocky outcrop. The mountaintop offers panoramic views of its forested slopes, grassy farmland, the vast lake and distant snow covered volcanos.  

Good to Know.  Strong gusts can make it extremely windy at the summit. It takes about an hour to reach from the parking lot. Use this map pin for parking. 

Craters of the Moon.  A geothermal park with dozens of steaming craters, mud pools and blow holes. Boardwalks lead through the volcanic scrubland and low laying manuka trees as steam billows from the ground. It’s a leisurely trek taking about an hour.

Wairakei Terraces & Thermal Health Spa.  A geothermal spa with terraced hot pools fed by a manmade geyser. The mineral rich waters offer a therapeutic way to relax after a day of hiking. The Terrace Walk includes views of the geyser, silica terraces, native flora and reproductions of a Māori Village. Signs share information about Māori stories and culture. 

Taupō Town Center.  A small but lively neighborhood of Taupō with breweries, restaurants, bakeries, clothing shops, cute boutiques and outdoor outfitters. Side alleys are painted with colorful murals. Its waterfront has scenic views of the lake. 

Tongariro Alpine Crossing

The Tongario Alpine Crossing is a scenic day hike through an active volcanic landscape. The Northern Circuit leads 20.2km past hardened lava flows, dramatic volcanos, craters, thermal vents, blue lagoons and waterfalls. 

The Timber Trail.  A scenic uphill trail leading several kilometers through rugged moorlands covered in short bushes, dry grasses and pale green mosses. The landscape transitions into a barren desert with hardened lava flows, black sand and snowy crevices. The trail offers closeup views of Mt Ngauruhoe, aka Mt Doom.

Soda Springs.  A small waterfall cascading over algae covered lava rock. It’s reachable from an offshoot of The Timber Trail.

Mt Ngauruhoe (Mt Doom).  A conical shaped strata volcano and one of the most iconic features of the Tongariro Crossing. Its slopes are covered in craggily black lava rock from past eruptions while its crater still steam still faintly dunes from its crater. The volcano is nicknamed Mt Doom after its appearance in Lord of the Rings. 

South Crater.  A vast volcanic crater with imposing views of Mt Ngauruhoe. The timber trail leads across its flat sandy basin to a steep ridge and The Red Crater. 

The Red Crater.  A dramatic volcanic crater marking the highest point of the Tongariro Crossing. The crater is scorched black and colored deep rusty red around the point where lava previously erupted. The crater is still highly active. Rippled air and steam rises from the super heated ground within. 

Emerald Lakes.  A series of brightly colored turquoise lagoons surrounded by barren volcanic landscape and steaming vents. They’re viewable from the Red Crater and reachable vis a steep gravel trail.

Blue Lake.  A large crater with a deep blue lake filling its basin. It’s the perfect spot to stop for a scenic picnic lunch before making the descent. 

Central Crater.  A large crater surrounded by several volcanic features including The Red Crater, Mt Tongariro, Emerald Lake and Blue Lake. A hardened lava flow from past eruptions spills into the basin of the crater. 

Mt Tongariro.  A blackened lava plateau flanked by craggily slopes and white snow filled crevices. 

Ketetahi Track.  A downhill trail meandering several kilometers past colorful shrubs, pine trees and subtropical forest. It offers views of lakes, steaming craters and small waterfalls. 

Te Maari Crater.  A still steaming volcanic crater on the Ketetahi Track. Hardened lava flows and ballistic craters formed by ejected rocks are visible from its 2012 eruption. 

Getting Here. Drive to and park at the Tongariro Crossing Car Park. Book a shuttle to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing trail head to begin the hike. The 20.2km trail ends back at the car park. Book the shuttle with Backyard Tours on Viator. 

Tips for Hiking The Tongariro Alpine Crossing:

• Check weather before hiking

• Bring 2 liters of water per person 

• Pack snacks and a lunch for the trail 

• Wear warm removable layers 

• Hiking poles are helpful for the downhill

• Wear sunblock and sunglasses 

• Toilets are available every several kilometers

• Bring toilet paper and hand sanitizer 

Taranaki Falls.  A 20m tall waterfall streaming from a narrow crevice into the rocky pool below. The waterfall is accessible midway along a 6km loop trail. The trail passes through scrubland with scenic views of Mount Ruapehu’s snow capped summit and Mt Ngauruhoe’s conical profile. 

Tawhai Falls (Gollum’s Waterfall).  A small but picturesque waterfall flowing over a diagonal cliff into a turquoise river pool. The location was used to film Gollum’s fishing scene in Lord of the Rings. It’s possible to swim here however the water is frigid. 

Orakei Korako Cave and Thermal Park

A geothermal park with a range of boiling geysers, bubbling streams, colorful mineral flows, mud pools and a rare thermal cave. Wooden boardwalks lead between the geothermal features and through the forested hillside past manuka trees, bushy ferns and moss covered rocks. Take a boat across the Waikato River from the welcome center to access the park. 

The Rainbow Terrace.  A geothermal feature with streaming flows of boiling water and mineral rich sediment. Colorful patterns paint the earth in shades of orange, red, brown and white.

The Devil’s Throat.  A small red cave spewing boiling water and steam towards the Rainbow Terrace.   

Rautapu Cave.  One of only two geothermal caves in the world. Its large rocky opening exposes a bubbling emerald pool at its base and steaming vents along its sides.

Mud Pools.  A bubbling series of clay pools with sections of turquoise blue water. 

Tongariro River Rafting

White water rafting is an exhilarating way to enjoy New Zealand’s landscapes and wildlife! We paddled down the Tongariro River through 60 grade 3 rapids with Tongariro River Rafting. The river offers a continuous roller coaster of white water rapids, technical challenges and leisurely cascades. The scenic adventure passes overgrown and sheer rock cliffs, black sand beaches and smooth volcanic boulders. Trout swam beneath the raft while aquatic birds floated by. A brief stop afforded us an opportunity to jump from a small cliff into the frigid water. The water is so fresh that we could drink directly from the stream. 

Māori & Kiwi Cuisine 

New Zealand Pies.  Personal sized pies with a flaky crust and filled with a range of savory ingredients like vegetables, meats and seafoods are common across New Zealand. They’re often served at cafes and fast food restaurants. 

Ika Mata.  Raw fish marinated in coconut cream with tomatoes and scallions. 

Paua.  A type of sea snail native to the waters of New Zealand. It’s served raw, sautéed, in soups and fritters.

Fish & Chips.  A classic pairing of fried fish and potatoes. It’s common among current and former British territories. 

Kumara. A yellow potato with a slightly sweet flavor and starchy texture. It’s often served as fried with fish and chips. 

Manuka Tea.  A herbal black tea with a pine forward flavor. It’s made from the leaves of a bushy evergreen tree. 

Manuka Honey.  Bush honey, famed for its antibiotic properties, made by bees that pollinate the manuka trees. 

Toasties.  Buttered and griddled white bread sandwiches often served at breakfast.

Places to Eat & Drink

Crafty Trout Brewery.  A cozy brewery in the center of Taupō with a range of traditional and flavored brews. Order a paddle of 9 to share and try almost everything of tap.

Kona Kones.  An ice cream shop with a range of classic and creative flavors. Try the boysenberry and coconut marshmallow.

Paetiki Bakery Cafe.  A self serve cafe stocked with dozens of fresh baked New Zealand pies and pastries. Try the vegetarian, smoked fish and paua pies. 

Brumby’s Bakery.  A bakery with fresh baked breads, sweets and New Zealand pies.

Where to Stay

Taupō Airbnb.  A backyard tiny house with a comfy bedroom, fully equipped kitchen and outdoor patio. It’s located near Taupō’s city center and natural sights. Book here. 

Location Specifics 

Language.  English is the most commonly spoken language in New Zealand. Māori is frequently written on street and road signs.  

Cash vs Card.  Credit card is accepted for virtually every payment. We did not need to use cash once.

Carry Your ID.  When ordering alcohol, be prepared to show your passport to verify your age. 

Rental Cars.  We rented a car with Auto Union at the Auckland airport. The agency has affordable rates and hundreds of positive reviews. 

Drive on the Left.  Like many former British colonies, New Zealanders drive on the left side of the road.

Elsewhere on the North Island 

There is so much to see on New Zealand’s North Island. We spent several days roadtripping between the lake towns of Rotorua and Taupō followed by a weekend in the metropolis of Auckland. We visited geothermal parks, hiked volcanic landscapes, white water rafted, tubed through glowworm caves, canopied in redwood forests and ate second breakfast at Hobbiton.

For Next Time…

Visit the South Island.  Seeing the snow covered mountains of the South Island from our airplane window left us with major sense of fomo. When we return, we plan to spend at least two weeks exploring the South Island. 

• Fiordland National Park.  A glacier carved fjord flanked by forested mountains and rugged mountains. 

• Lake Tekapo.  A bright blue lake surrounded by scenic views snow covered mountains and springtime blooms of lupin flowers. 

• Tasman Glacier.  A glacier with a turquoise lagoon and floating icebergs at its leading edge. 

Rotorua, New Zealand

Rotorua, New Zealand

Rotorua is a scenic lakeside town on New Zealand’s North Island. Its home to active geothermal features, towering redwood forests and outdoor adventure parks. Its a magical destination, with nearby glowworm caves and the mythical film set of Hobbiton adding to its allure. Māori cultural experiences provide deep insight into the traditions of the island’s first peoples. 

See the Sights 

Lake Rotorua.  A picturesque lake filling the caldera of an ancient volcano. The lake is lined by a scenic board walk, forested nature trails and geothermal activity. Its inhabited by families of black swans, ducks, geese and other aquatic birds.

• Sulphur Point.  A geothermal bay on Lake Rotorua with milky blue water, bubbling mud pools, steam vents and sulphur deposits. It’s a nesting place for various gulls. Trails with picturesque views lead along its edge.

• Te Arawa War Canoe.  A Māori war canoe preserved in a protected shelter near Lake Rotorua. The large canoe is carved from a 1,500 year old tree and adorned in carved faces of Māori beings to navigate and guide the Māori people. 

Kuirau Park.  A city park with hot springs, steaming vents, bubbling pools and a geothermal lagoon. Come here to stroll the Manukatree lined paths and boardwalks. Stop to plunge your legs in thermal foot baths fed by naturally heated spring water. 

Government Gardens.  A public garden with floral beds, bowling fields used by cricketers, Māori sculptures and cultural landmarks, steaming thermal vent, vibrant hot springs and historic wooden buildings.

Outdoor Adventure Parks 

Redwoods Whakarewarewa Forest.  A redwood forest with towering redwood trees and elevated adventure courses. Trails lead through the forest past larger than life redwoods, leafy ferns and mossy patches. Spend a couple hours here walking the trails and canopying in the trees. We hiked the 3.4km Waitawa Walk by day returned for the night trek in the Redwoods Treewalk.

Redwoods Treewalk.  A series of elevated suspension bridges and platforms built between the massive trunks of the redwood trees. The evening treewalk is a magical experience. Suspended lanterns dimly glow throughout redwood forest while colorful lights illuminate the below fern trees. 

Redwoods Altitude.  An elevated adventure course with zip lines and unique suspension bridges meandering between the trunks of the forest’s oldest redwoods. A spiral staircase leads up the trunk of a redwood while a repelling jump descends back to the ground. 

Skyline Rotorua.  An adventure park with cable cars, extreme mountain biking, zip lines and lugeing courses built on the slopes of Mount Ngongotaha. It’s reachable via a 900 meter long gondola with views of Lake Rotorua and the city below. The park also includes low energy activities include wine tastings at the Stratosfare Restaurant and nature walks through the fern covered forest. 

Skyline Luge.  A gravity fueled luge course with multiple routes, downhill straightaways, steep curves and illuminated tunnels. Race small carts to the bottom, ride the lift up and repeat. It’s an exciting activity made for all ages. Buy tickets that included at least two rides.

Geothermal Sights & Parks

Waiotapu Thermal Wonderland

The Waiotapu Thermal Wonderland is a vast geothermal park featuring eruptive geysers, colorful hot springs, acidic lakes, steaming vents and bubbling mud pools. Scenic walkways traverse the park’s many sights. 

Champagne Pool.  A large hot spring named after its small bubbles and fizzing noises resembling a glass of champagne. Mineral deposits line the edge of the pool graduating inwards from white to yellow, orange and green. Steam rises from its surface, wafting gaseous clouds and the occasional vortex. 

Artist’s Palette.  A colorful basin created by mineral deposits and overflowing water from the Champagne Pool. The palette displays bright yellow, rusty orange, turquoise blue, aquamarine, bone white, beige and brown colors. The colors change based on viewing angles and amount of sunlight.

Roto Kārikitea.  A neon green colored acid pool formed by runoff from the Champagne Pools. 

The Craters.  A series of collapsed thermal vents with boiling mud pools, sulphuric deposits and steaming gases. They’re some of the first sights when entering the geothermal park. 

The Mud Pools.  An area with multiple bubbling mud pools, stinky gases and blobs of floating crude oil. 

Nature Walks.  A series of trails winds through forested hillsides, offering sweeping views of the landscape, its geothermal features and endemic plants. Routes pass through the park’s most active thermal areas, showcasing acidic lakes, bubbling hot springs, steaming vents, sulfuric caves and waterfalls.

Lady Knox Geyser.  A white geyser with a steaming conical vent resembling a miniature volcano. The geyser is “induced” to erupt each morning as a Māori woman sings. A growing fountain of bubbling water slowly flows forth followed by a towering jet of steam reaching 20 meters in height. Arrive by 9:30am to get a front row seat in the outdoor amphitheater.

Kerosene Creek.  A forested creek fed by a thermal hot spring with spa-like river pools and small waterfalls. Soak in warm waters and jacuzzi-like falls while admiring the serene surrounding nature. Park here and hike in. 

Waimangu Volcanic Valley

The Waimangu Volcanic Valley is a geothermal area created by a dramatic eruption in 1886. Trails lead through the valley past views of volcanic craters, large hot springs, boiling rivers, sputtering geysers and steaming vents. 

The Crater Track.  A nature walk with scenic views of the valley’s largest volcanic features like crater lakes, colorful silica terraces, steaming rock pinnacles, hot streams and lush landscapes. 

The Terrace Track.  A trail following hot and cold streams lined with orange and white hued silica terraces. Sputtering vents emit hot steam and boiling water along the stream’s edges and terraces surfaces. 

Wetland Trail.  A trail leading through wetlands populated by native plants and aquatic birds. It ends at Lake Rotomahana with views of the Tarawera Volcano. 

The Waitomo Glowworm Cave

The Waitomo Glowworm Cave is a subterranean habitat home to colonies of bioluminescent glowworms. The best way to see the glowworms is by blackwater rafting through the cave’s underground river. It’s a truly magical experience coupled with a unique sense of adventure! 

Black Water Rafting (Black Labyrinth).  We geared up with wetsuits, boots, helmets, headlamps and inner tubes to enter the cave. Guides led us through a crevice into a series of narrow passageways and flooded chambers. We jumped from small waterfalls and floated deeper underground as cold water rushed around us. Thousands of glowworms glittered above our heads in a brilliant display of bioluminescence. Greenish blue dots illuminated the darkness of the cave like stars in the night sky. Book here!

Good to Know.  Personal cameras are not allowed in the cave to maintain participant safety. The rule forces you to live in the moment and appreciate the beauty. Photos can be purchased after the tour. 

Hobbiton Movie Set

Hobbiton is the fictional movie set built for the Lord of the Rings and Hobbit Trilogies. The whimsical village spans a verdant hillside of a functioning sheep farm. Dirt walkways meander past “hobbit holes” built into the faces of grassy mounds. Round doorways and tiny windows peer inside. Flower and veggie gardens sprout beyond wooden picket fences. Smoke rises from brick chimneys poking out of the hilltops. Guided tours include stops at iconic film sights like Bag End, The Party Field, Bagshot Row and The Green Dragon Inn. 

Bag End.  The famed “hobbit hole” home to Bilbo and Frodo. It’s built into the top of grassy hill beneath a large tree. Its green painted round door is left slightly ajar as if inviting guests in for afternoon tea. 

Party Field.  A grassy field in the middle of Hobbiton where Bilbo’s 111th birthday party is held. Ride the teeter totter or play lawn games like quoits.

Bagshot Row.  A lovely row of intricately designed “hobbit holes.” Beyond their round doors is a series of meticulously designed wooden tunnels, cozy chambers and warmly lit rooms with hobbit sized furniture, Shire decor, working fireplaces and numerous hidden easter eggs. 

Second Breakfast Tour.  A specialty tour of Hobbiton based on the beloved concept of “second breakfast.” The tour includes a feast worthy of respectable hobbits or a company of dwarfs. A vast dining table within The Millhouse is covered in spreads of fresh baked scones, muffins, breads and pastries. Dishes are plated with a variety of cheeses, meats, fruits and eggs. Vegan sausage, tofu, mushrooms and potatoes can be requested for vegetarians. Carafes sit on the side with teas, coffee and juices 

The Green Dragon Inn.  A warm and cozy shire pub and gathering place for hobbits and dwarfs. Come here to sit around a roaring fireplace with a “tankard” of locally brewed beer made especially for Hobbiton! 

Good to Know.  A majority of the hobbit holes are not actually accessible. Bag End only recently opened a gives a true glimpse into the life of the hobbits. 

Pro Tip.  Book tours directly through Hobbiton Movie Set Tours up to 10 months in advance! 

Māori & Kiwi Cuisine 

New Zealand Pies.  Personal sized pies with a flaky crust and filled with a range of savory ingredients like vegetables, meats and seafoods are common across New Zealand. They’re often served at cafes and fast food restaurants. 

Ika Mata.  Raw fish marinated in coconut cream with tomatoes and scallions. 

Paua.  A type of sea snail native to the waters of New Zealand. It’s served raw, sautéed, in soups and fritters.

Fish & Chips.  A classic pairing of fried fish and potatoes. It’s common among current and former British territories. 

Kumara. A yellow potato with a slightly sweet flavor and starchy texture. It’s often served as fried with fish and chips. 

Manuka Tea.  A herbal black tea with a pine forward flavor. It’s made from the leaves of a bushy evergreen tree. 

Manuka Honey.  Bush honey, famed for its antibiotic properties, made by bees that pollinate the manuka trees.

Toasties.  Buttered and griddled white bread sandwiches often served at breakfast. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Eat Street.  A pedestrian street in the center of Rotorua with restaurants, bars and nightly live music. Come here to eat drink and be merry!

• The Fainting Goat.  A restaurant on Eat Street with a menu of shareable plates, house brewed beers and New Zealand gins. Try the salt and pepper squid, tarakihi fish tostadas and pumpkin frites with truffle honey. 

• Brew Craft Beer Pub.  A pub on Eat Street with fried snacks, pizzas, burgers and local beers. 

• Lady Jane’s Ice Cream.  An ice cream shop on Eat Street with dozens of classic and local flavors. Try the Black Doris Plum and Hokey Pokey, honey toffee in vanilla ice cream. 

Kai Caff Aye.  A restaurant specializing in traditional Māori cuisine. Come here for Kai Moana (sea food). Try the chowder of Paua (sea snail) in a pocket of fry bread and Ika Mata.

Devon Sea Foods.  A takeaway seafood kitchen with fish & chips, fish burgers and  other fresh caught New Zealand fish meals. Try the Tarakihi Fish with Kumara Chips.

Where to Stay

Rotoroa Airbnb.  A ground floor apartment in a home with a small kitchenette. It’s close to the city’s geothermal sights and walking distance to cafes and restaurants. Book here.

Location Specifics 

Language.  English is the most commonly spoken language in New Zealand. Māori is frequently written on street and road signs.  

Cash vs Card.  Credit card is accepted for virtually every payment. We did not need to use cash once.

Carry Your ID.  When ordering alcohol, be prepared to show your passport to verify your age. 

Rental Cars.  We rented a car with Auto Union at the Auckland airport. The agency has affordable rates and hundreds of positive reviews. 

Drive on the Left.  Like many former British colonies, New Zealanders drive on the left side of the road. 

Elsewhere on the North Island 

There is so much to see on New Zealand’s North Island. We spent several days roadtripping between the lake towns of Rotorua and Taupō followed by a weekend in the metropolis of Auckland. We visited geothermal parks, hiked volcanic landscapes, white water rafted, tubed through glowworm caves, canopied in redwood forests and ate second breakfast at Hobbiton.

For Next Time…

Visit the South Island.  Seeing the snow covered mountains of the South Island from our airplane window left us with major sense of fomo. When we return, we plan to spend at least two weeks exploring the South Island. 

• Fiordland National Park.  A glacier carved fjord flanked by forested mountains and rugged mountains. 

• Lake Tekapo.  A bright blue lake surrounded by scenic views snow covered mountains and springtime blooms of lupin flowers. 

• Tasman Glacier.  A glacier with a turquoise lagoon and floating icebergs at its leading edge. 

The Coral Coast Roadtrip

The Coral Coast

The Coral Coast stretches for more than 1,000km along the Indian Ocean in Western Australia. The coast is famed for its remote towns, rugged landscapes, steep gorges, picturesque hikes, white sand beaches, turquoise waters and coral reefs. It’s a habitat for free roaming wildlife like kangaroos and emus as well as marine life like sea lions, sea turtles and manta rays.  

An Aussie Roadtrip 

The best way to experience The Coral Coast is by renting a car and roadtripping! We spent two weeks driving from Perth to Ningaloo with stops in Cervantes, Jurien Bay, Kalbarri, Francois Peron, Carnarvon, Geraldton and Yanchep. In total, we over covered 4,000 kilometers there and back. 

Cervantes (Day 1)

Cervantes is a small village known for its lobster fisheries and natural sights including stromatolites and desert rock formations. It’s located about 200km north of Perth and 25km south of Jurien Bay. 

Pinnacles Desert.  A bright yellow sand desert covered in vertical limestone rock formations known as The Pinnacles. Foot and drive trails weave through the unusual landscape past the jagged and eroded rock structures. The Desert View Walk loops 1.5km through the desert with close up views of the Pinnacles and lookouts of the landscape. Follow trail markers with an emu footprint stamped on a post. The Drive Trail leads 4.5km through the scenic desert to distant areas. It does not require a 4x4. 

Lake Thetis.  A lagoon home to some of the planet’s earliest lifeforms, stromatolites. A boardwalk leads around the perimeter of the lake with views of them. A boardwalk leads to the lake’s edges with views of the stromatolites while a nature trail continues along the bushland around its perimeter. Kangaroos can frequently be spotted lounging in the grasses and curiously looking around.  

The Lobster Shack.  A lobster fishery and restaurant specializing in all types of fresh caught seafood and lobster. It’s recommended as an obligatory stop by locals. Their menu features full or half lobsters, lobster rolls and lobster chowder. Dine in their ocean view patio watching for dolphins. 

Thirsty Point Lookout.  A white sand beach with views of the emerald hued Indian Ocean. A nature walk leads through the point’s grassy dunes. 

Jurien Bay (Day 2)

Jurien Bay is a coastal town home to colonies of endangered sea lions, crescent shaped white sand beaches and turquoise ocean waters. It’s located about 25km north of Cervantes and 200km south of Geraldton. 

Sandy Cape Beach.  A powdery white sand beach hugged by turquoise blue waters. The beach is nestled in a hook shaped cove surrounded by sand dunes and coastal vegetation. A trail leads to a lookout point with views of the coast and ocean. We spotted emus in the nearby bush. There is a popular campground lining the beach. Sites can be reserved using a QR code posted on signs. 

Sea Lion Pup Snorkeling.  The protected waters of the Jurien Bay Marine Park are home to colonies of endangered sea lions. We boated out to a shallow reef surrounding a small island. Playful sea lion pups frolicked onshore and dove into the water to greet us. A pup with the zoomies twirled past and later returned with a sand dollar balanced on its head as a present. A giant male swam by, offering us his best side eye. Elsewhere in the reef we spotted starfish, octopus and puffer fish. Book a morning tour with Turquoise Safaris Sea Lion Tours. 

Jurien Bay Jetty.  A small oceanfront pier in the center of Jurien Bay with sunset views, coastal walking paths and a beach cafe.

Places to Eat, Drink & Stay 

Jurien Bay Seafood.  A seafood restaurant and fish monger with a robust menu and daily caught specials. Come here for everything from barramundi fish & chips to squid burgers or Aussie oysters.

Bay Bakery Cafe.  A local spot for meat pies, vegetarian pasties, sweet baked goods and fresh breads. Come here for an early morning breakfast or afternoon snack. 

Jurien Bay Hotel.  A hotel with apartment style rooms and sea view balconies in the heart of town. It’s located less than 5 minutes from the beach and most restaurants. Reserve on Booking. 

Lesueur National Park (Day 3)

Lesueur National Park is a biodiverse reserve with trails and a scenic drive. It’s famed for its seasonal wildflower blooms between August and November. It’s accessibly from Jurien Bay. 

• Hike the Gairdner Trail, a 5.1km loop trail through the hilly landscape. White sand and orange gravel trail leads past native grasses, bushes, pines and types of funky shaped and colorful wildflowers. 

• The Mt. Lesueur Trail forks from the Gairdner Trail leading to the park’s highest point. It’s another great trail to spot seasonal wildflowers with identification placards. 

Kalbarri (Day 4)

Kalbarri is remote region of Western Australia famed for its coastal sandstone cliffs, picturesque beaches, bush hiking trails and dramatic river gorges. It’s located about 350km north of Jurien Bay and 375km south of Denham. 

Hutt Lagoon (Pink Lake).  A pink saltwater lagoon stretching across the Outback landscape. Its colors range from bubblegum pink to hot pink depending on the lighting conditions. Visit during the middle of the day when the sun is high. It located 45min south of Kalbarri. Visit the Pink Lake Lookout. 

Kalbarri Coastal Lookouts.  Kalbarri’s coast is connected by a series of sandstone cliffs, remote beaches, lookout points and hiking trails. 

• Eagle Gorge Lookout.  A coastal lookout of red sandstone cliffs juxtaposed against the deep blue ocean. A trail leads through the bush to the lookout point and continues to a tan sand beach flanked by layered cliffs.

• Pot Alley.  A coastal lookout with views of rugged sandstone formations, layered cliffs and the turbulent ocean. A trail leads through a rocky gully to a tan sand beach below. 

• Rainbow Valley Loop Hike.  A 1.5km trail looping through the ancient coastal landscape and layered cliffs. The trial passes fossilized pipe rocks created by organisms over 400 million years ago. It’s named after its colorful sandstone formations, varying in shades of tan, ochre, orange, red and maroon. 

• Mushroom Rock.  A flat rock balanced on a narrow stone base resembling a mushroom. It’s reachable midway on the Rainbow Loop Trail and from the Mushroom Rock Carpark. 

• Red Bluff Lookout.  A coastal lookout of the red sandstone coast, ferocious ocean waves and bushland. A trail continues further from the lookout to Red Bluff Beach. 

Kalbarri Beaches.  Kalbarri has a range of scenic beaches nestled along cliffsides, rivers and oceanfront. 

• Chinaman’s Beach.  A protected beach  located where the Murchison River meets the Indian Ocean. Come here for a cooling and refreshing swim on a hot day. 

• Kalbarri Beach.  A calm and swimmable beach in the turquoise hued estuary of the Murchison River. It’s possible to rent kayaks or small boats from here to explore further upstream. 

• Blue Holes Beach.  A lengthy white sand beach with views of the turbulent ocean. Sharp rocks and strong currents make it dangerous to swim but perfect for long seaside walks and sunsets. 

• Kalbarri Pink Beach.  A beautiful pink sand beach with a deep purplish hue. Visit at sunset when the golden light intensifies the color of the sand. Watch experienced surfers riding barrel waves at Jake’s Point.

• Melaleuca Trail.  A coastal walking trail leading through the bush covered dunes from Chinaman’s Beach to Kalbarri Pink Beach. 

Places to Eat, Drink & Stay

Kalbarri Palm Resort.  A large motel style resort in the center of Kalbarri. They offer a range of comfortable rooms and outdoor areas like a pool and cricket field. We woke up to kangaroos outside of our apartment. Reserve on Booking. 

Buddha Bites.  A seafood restaurant at the Kalbarri Palm Resort with South East Asian flavors like coconut, ginger and red pepper. Try the tamarind lime snapper and Australian seafood salad. 

Kalbarri National Park (Day 5)

Kalbarri National Park is a sprawling reserve with scenic hiking trails and panoramic lookouts of the Murchison River Gorge, a sandstone gorge carved by the Murchison River and ancient coastline. 

Nature’s Window.  A small sandstone arch on a cliffside ridge of the Murchison River Gorge. It’s reachable by following a 500 meter trail from the car park. The trek offers panoramic views of the orange layered sediment, green speckled bushes and winding river gorge. 

The Loop Trail.  An adventurous and scenic trail leading 8km through The Murchison River Gorge, beginning at and returning to Nature’s Window. It follows the cliffside ridge of the dramatic gorge. A steep descent continues down layered sandstone formations to the base of the canyon. A fractured ledge with minimal clearance leads along the edge of the riverside. The trail follows a horseshoe bend with views of the canyon walls. It continues through a fragrant eucalyptus grove before ascending back up to the ridge. The trial is the best we hiked in Western Australia!

Wildlife Spotting.  The gorge is home a variety of wildlife. Pairs of kangaroos nibbled on grass along the trail and hopped down the gorge’s rocky cliffs. Pelicans and black swans swim in the Murchison River. Foot prints and tracks from emu, small mammals and lizards meander through the sand. 

Advice for Visiting.  The Loop Trail can be dangerous and uncomfortable! Here is some advice to keep in mind.

• Avoid the Heat.  The trail head closes at 7am due to extreme heat. It’s best to begin hiking just after sunrise. The temperatures reached 36C (97F) by 9am when we completed the hike.

• Bring Water.  Hydrate before the hike and carry enough water to last the duration. We carried 1.5L each however it’s advised to carry 1L per hour. 

• Fly Nets.  You absolutely need a fly net during the hike. We were swarmed by and covered in hundreds of flys.

Kalbarri Skywalk.  A pair of cantilevered walkways suspended hundreds of meters above the Murchison River Gorge. They offer panoramic views of the gorge and Outback landscape. 

Z-Bend Lookout.  A lookout point of the Murchison River Gorge’s most prominent bend, aptly named after its sharp right angular bends. A bonus sight is a fossilized 400 million year old “footprint” trail from an eurypterid, one of the planet’s first land dwelling creatures.

Z Bend River Trail.  An adventurous 2.6km round trip trail leading to the Z Bend of the Murchison River. The semi-rigorous hike leads through steep crevices, down ladders and over large boulders to reach the river. Walk down the riverbed with beautiful views of the Z Bend. 

Ross Graham Lookout.  A scenic point with two lookout points of Murchison River Gorge. A short trail leads from the parking lot to the first viewpoint. A side trail continues slightly further into the gorge. 

Hawks Head Lookout.  A panoramic lookout of the Murchison River Gorge and landscape. 

Shark Bay (Day 6)

Shark Bay is large bay and marine park with picturesque beaches, scenic lookouts and small coastal towns. 

Shell Beach.  A magical beach covered in billions of tiny white shells lining the aquamarine shores of Shark Bay. Walk the beach, scoop up shells and toss them like sand in the wind.

Eagle Bluff Lookout.  A coastal lookout and boardwalk with views of the beaches, cliffs and shallow coastal waters. Come here to spot marine life including lemon sharks, nervous sharks, rays, sea turtles and aquatic birds.

Little Lagoon Creek.  A turquoise creek flowing from the bay into the Little Lagoon. A trail follows its banks to the mouth of the lagoon. Avoid swimming here due to poisonous stonefish. 

Little Lagoon.  A crystal clear lagoon with multihued blue waters. Bring a beach chair to relax on shore, swim in the shallow waters or barbecue at one of the grill pavilions.

Denham.  A cute coastal town in Shark Bay home to holiday rentals, beaches and turquoise lagoons. Emus can often be spotted strutting around the edge of town.   

Places to Eat, Drink & Stay

The Old Pearler Restaurant.  A seafood restaurant in a historic building made from pressed shell blocks. Its cozy interior offers romantic setting for dinner. Bring your own bottle of wine and try the seafood crowder or pan fried cod. 

Shark Bay Seafront Apartments.  A bayside hotel with spacious apartments and well equipped kitchens. Each holiday rental has its own outdoor patios adjoined by a communal area with thatched gazebos, sun lounges and a barbecue. Reserve on Booking.

Francois Peron National Park (Day 7)

Francois Peron National Park is a remote peninsula where the desert meets the sea. Its reddish orange cliffs border the turquoise blue ocean. The landscape blanketed in tufts of green bushes and clay plans with tiny dried shrubs. The park is home to wildlife like emus, kangaroos, monitor lizards, beared dragons and venomous snakes. The shores and shallows are teeming with marine life including sharks, sea turtles and rays. It’s located about 375km north of Kalbarri and 327km south of Carnarvon.

Cape Peron Point.  The northernmost point on the peninsula. Come here to hike the Wanamalu Walk Trail, a 3.5km coastal trail with views of the shrub covered desert, red rocky cliffs, white sand beaches and turquoise ocean.

Slip Jack Point.  A dramatic lookout point on the Cape Peron Peninsula. Reddish orange cliffs fade into white sand beaches hugging turquoise coastal waters. Large sting rays, cow tail rays, eagle rays, nervous sharks and schools of fish swim in the clear shallows below. Thousands of seagulls, cormorants and pelicans flock to the shoreline. 

Bottle Bay.  A remote beach home to an array of marine life. Drive down the shore to a short but steep trail with views of the crescent shaped white sand beach and its deep red cliffs. Watch for white tipped reef sharks, eagle rays, green sea turtles and logger head turtle from the cliffside view. 

Big Lagoon.  A blue lagoon colored in shades of aqua, turquoise and navy. A trail leads through a campground to the top of a dune with panoramic views. Orange sand flows from the dune into the warm and swimmable waters. 

Getting Around.  Francois Peron National Park is only accessible with a high clearance 4x4 vehicle. It requires experience to drive though to avoid getting bogged in the sandy roads. Unable to drive ourselves, we booked a full day tour from Denham with Shark Bay Coastal Tours. 

Carnarvon (Day 8)

Carnarvon is a large farm town located halfway between Shark Bay and Coral Bay. The region is responsible for producing a majority of Western Australia’s produce. It’s the perfect place to stop along the 6 hour drive to stock up on groceries and refuel. It’s located about 327km north of Denham in Francois Peron National Park and 237km south of Coral Bay.

Carnarvon Space and Technology Museum.  A communications and monitoring station with large satellites used for some of NASA’s most historic space programs. The station includes an extremely well curated museum with retired NASA equipment, historic artifacts, a planetarium, a replica lunar lander, interactive simulators, photo booths and vintage arcade games. 

Ningaloo Reef (Days 9 - 11)

Ningaloo Reef is one of the world’s largest fringing coral reef, stretching 300km along Cape Range from Coral Bay to Exmouth. Beneath the ocean’s prismatic blues is a world of subtropical corals, colorful fish, sea turtles, sharks, octopus and manta rays. 

Subtropical Corals.  Ningaloo Reef is a subtropical reef system. What it lacks in color, it makes up for in variety and complex shapes. The corals are mostly brown and tan with some purple and blue.

Coral Bleaching.  The reef has experienced stress due to a multi year marine heatwave. Most corals near shore are in a disastrous state. The corals further, along the edge of the reef are fairing better. 

Coral Bay (Day 9)

A small resort town on the southern end of Ningaloo Reef. It’s home to beautiful beaches, snorkeling points, tour operators, hostels and campgrounds. It’s located about 237km north of Carnarvon and 150km south of Exmouth.

Coral Bay Snorkeling Tour.  The coral mazes near the outer reef of Coral Bay are teeming with heathy corals and an abundance of marine life. We booked a full day snorkel tour with Coral Bay Eco Tours on Get Your Guide. The tour brought us to the South Maze, Blue Maze and Manta Cleaning Station. 

South Maze.  An impressive maze of shallow coral boomies, sandy patches and an abundance of marine life. It’s located several hundred meters off shore from Paradise Beach in Coral Bay. Green sea turtles and schools of colorful fish swim throughout the reef. Blue clams and octopus nestle themselves into the corals. White tipped reef sharks sleep within coral caves. Sting rays and moray eels slink along sandy patches. 

Blue Maze.  A maze of large coral boomies, underwater canyons and a variety of marine life. It’s located several hundred meters off shore from Paradise Beach in Coral Bay. Countless tiny fish swim in the shallow waters above the corals boomies. Sea turtles swim through the reef and rest on coral beds. Well camouflaged octopus lurk in with crevices of corals. Scorpion fish sit on a corals awaiting passing prey. 

Manta Cleaning Station.  Manta Ray’s are some of Ningaloo Reef’s most prominent animals. The graceful giants feed in the plankton rich waters and frequent “cleaning stations” on the reef where smaller fish groom them. We swam and snorkeled above one cleaning station, spotting 6 manta rays including a rare Melanistic Ray, recognizable by its jet black skin. At one point, 4 manta rays started rotating in a mesmerizing circular pattern. The cleaning station is located a few hundred meters off shore from Point Maud and Skeleton Beach in Coral Bay. 

Coastal Sights

Bill’s Bay.  A shallow bay with a protected white sand beach. It’s the most accessible beach in Coral Bay for swimming, sunbathing and snorkeling. Unfortunately most of the corals in the bay are dead.

Paradise Beach.  A narrow beach stretching south along Coral Bay’s shore. The best area for snorkeling is on the opposite side of the point from Bill’s Bay. Be careful of Portuguese Man O Wars on windy days. 

Shark Sanctuary.  A tidal lagoon on the ocean separated by a thin coral band. It’s home baby sharks and sting rays.

Coral Bay Walk Track.  A costal hiking path leading from Paradise Beach to the Coral Bay Jetty. It overlooks the ocean, reef and small beaches nestled between limestone cliffs.

Five Fingers Reef.  A remote beach named after 5 small limestone ridges extending into the water. It’s a popular spot for snorkeling and wind surfing. The beach is only reachable by 4x4 or on foot from the Coral Bay Jetty.

Places to Eat, Drink & Stay

Bill’s Bar.  The most popular pub in town with a large food and drink menu. It has a lively atmosphere bringing travelers and locals together each night. Try the peal and eat prawns with an Aussie craft beer.

Coral Resort Bakery.  A bakery with a selection of savory pies, sweet baked goods and breads. Try the “Cheesymite Roll” swirled with cheddar and  vegemite. 

Sweet Coral Bay.  An ice cream shop with classic and tropical fruit flavors. Try the “Whale Shark” made with white chocolate and spirulina (an edible blue-green algae). 

Ningaloo Backpackers Club.  A large hostel with a range of basic dorms, private rooms and shared restrooms. It offers a communal kitchen to cook meals, a bar to order drinks from and a pool to swim and lounge alongside. Reserved on Booking. 

Exmouth (Day 10)

Exmouth is a remote resort town on the northeast side of Cape Range with access to many of the national park’s beaches, bays and gorges. It’s popular for its accommodations, tour operators, restaurants and micro breweries. It’s located about 150km north of Coral Bay.

Tantabiddi Sanctuary Zone.  A coastal sanctuary in the north of Ningaloo Reef. It’s a habitat for sea turtles, playful dolphins and tropical fish. We snorkeled here on a half day tour with Cape Immersion Tours. The water glowed with intense shades of blue and turquoise. Groups of sea turtles mated near the surface while dolphins swam alongside the boat. We drift snorkeled in the current above reef formations. Bulbous purple, yellow and blue corals stood out amongst the expanse of dead corals. Giant grouper, camouflaged octopus, translucent squid and a white tipped reef shark were some of the underwater highlights. Book on Viator.

Whale Bone Brewing Co.  A brewery and distillery in Exmouth with a range of craft beers, artisan spirits and flavorful pizzas. Order a paddle of 7 beers to taste the latest brews!

Cape Range National Park (Day 11)

A rugged and remote national park with steep gorges, hiking trails, coastal views and Australian wildlife. 

Turquoise Bay.  A picturesque bay with calm turquoise waters and crescent shaped white sand beach. It’s the perfect place to sunbathe and swim. 

Turquoise Bay Drift Snorkel.  Adjacent to Turquoise Bay is lengthy beach with an expansive coral reef. It’s an ideal spot to drift snorkel and spot marine life. Walk down shore, swim out to the reef and let the current carry you. Exit a hundred meters before the sandy point to avoid outward currents. 

Good to Know.  The healthiest corals are a few hundred meters offshore. Avoid swimming out this far on windy days. 

Oyster Stacks.  A popular snorkeling beach with an easily accessible reef. Snorkel in the shallow coral gardens with all types of fish, blue clams, stingrays, sea urchins, sea cucumbers and starfish. Peer under the rocky structures to observe schools of large fish. It was one of our favorite places to snorkel outside of an official tour.

Turtle Rookery.  A costal area home to the largest sea turtle mating grounds in the Indian Ocean. Thousands of hawksbill, loggerhead and green sea turtles mate in the waters and hatch onshore between the months of October and April. Visit Mauritius Beach to observe them by day or night.  

Mauritius Beach.  A clothing optional white sand beach along the shores of the Turtle Rookery. Relax in the sun while spotting turtles mating off shore and viewing egg chambers and dug in the sand the night before. 

Mandu Mandu Gorge Walk.  A scenic gorge with a 3km loop trail. The trail follows a dried cobblestone riverbed flanked by snaking canyon walls and verdant bushes. It  climbs up the steep canyon wall with panoramic views of its ridge before looping back to the car park. 

Yardi Creek Gorge.  A winding creek with scenic nature walks and hiking trails along the edge of the gorge. Come here to spot rock wallabies hopping along the canyon and fruit bats hanging from the trees. 

Charles Knife Canyon Gorge.  A dramatic canyon in Cape Range National Park. Panoramic views of its rocky gorge and steep canyons are visible from scenic pull offs along Charles Knife Road. The 27km road is fully accessible by 2 wheel drive, ending at a turn around. 

Cathedral Termite Mounds.  The grassy landscape between Coral Bay and Exmouth is dotted with massive termite mounds, named after their cathedral-like structure. Roadside pull offs along Exmouth Road offer close up views. 

Geraldton (Day 12)

Geraldton is a great resting place when heading north or south along the Coral Coast. The city is home to restaurants, motels and Western Australia’s famed learning trees. It’s located about 700km south of Coral Bay and 415km north of Perth.

Geraldton Leaning Tree.  A windswept eucalyptus tree that grows horizontally along the ground. The leaning trees are a common sight in the area however this is the only one closely viewable from this roadside pull off.

Yanchep National Park (Day 13)

Yanchep National Park is a sprawling oasis north of Perth. It was the last stop on our road trip of the Coral Coast heading back south. Nature walks lead through lush bush-lands. Parrots squawk and fly between trees. Sleepy koalas hang onto eucalyptus branches in small sanctuary Kangaroos nibble on grasses in open fields. 

Perth (Day 14)

Perth is sprawling metropolis with laid back vibes. Sunny days are enjoyed at city parks, exploring the riverwalk and shopping in covered arcades. The bustling food and nightlife scene offers plenty of options for dining out and sipping on cocktails. The city is a great starting or end point for road trips along the western coast. 

Kings Park & Botanic Garden.  A sprawling city park with native trees, plants and flowering gardens. Cliffside lookouts offer views of the Swan River. Meandering walkways transport you deep into nature, away from the sounds of the city. Take in the wildflowers, fluttering butterflies and fragrant eucalyptus trees.

Heirisson Island.  A city park and kangaroo sanctuary on an island in the Swan River. Bush trails lead through grassy fields and wetlands where kangaroos graze. Visit during the late afternoon when the kangaroos are most active. 

Elizabeth Quay.  A contemporary riverfront park with funky boardwalks, skyline views and restaurants. Visit The Island for house brewed beers, pizzas and shareable bites. 

London Court.  An Old English style arcade in the Central Business District with to tailors, jewelers, barbers and cafes. 

Mount Lawley.  A popular neighborhood with cafes, restaurants, late night bars, boutiques and shops.

Places to Eat, Drink & Stay

Hula Bar.  A traditional and over the top tiki bar decorated with eclectic objects and dim colorful lights. They offer all the classics and several signature cocktails in vintage tiki mugs.

Lot Six Zero.  A breakfast cafe with strong coffees and delicious spiced egg dishes served on sourdough bread and croissants.

El Publico.  A taqueria on Beaufort Street in Mount Lawley serving authentically prepared tacos and mezcal.

Perth Airbnb.  A Bali style guesthouse with a tranquil outdoor patio, small swimming pool and styling living space. It’s a hidden gem perfect for a comfy stay. Reserve on Airbnb. 

Location Specifics

When to Visit.  Mid November is an ideal time to visit The Coral Coast and Western Australia. The days are mostly sunny making it the perfect time to maximize outdoor activities. It’s the cusp of summer so temperatures can range dramatically from cool to extremely hot. 

Extreme Heat.  The summer months invite extreme heat. Temperatures often exceed 40C (104F) and occasionally reach 50C (122F). Stay hydrated, cover your skin, wear loose flowy clothes and avoid peak heat hours. Be cautious when planning hikes.

Extreme UV.  Western Australia boasts many beautiful sunny days. It comes with the price of extreme levels of UV. Wear SPF 50+ sunblock, sunglasses and hats for protection. 

Summer Flies.  Swarms of pestering flies are a constant annoyance across Western Australia during the summer months. Dozens hitch a ride on your clothes, buzz around your head and crawl on your face. Wear a fly net in addition to liberally applying insect repellent whenever hiking.

WA Holiday Park Pass.  A park pass covering tickets / permits to nearly every park in Western Australia. We bought a 14 day pass at the Pinnacles Desert. It paid itself off after visiting 3 national parks.

Underwater Photography.  Buy a waterproof phone case to take underwater photos of the coral reefs and marine life. We used the Pictar Waterproof Smartphone Caseavailable on Amazon or Walmart. 

Driving in Western Australia 

Car Rental.  Perth is the best location to rent a car before beginning a roadtrip of Western Australia. We rented a 2WD from Sixt at the Perth Airport. 

2WD vs 4WD.  Most roads are well maintained enough to drive down using a 2 wheel drive vehicle. It’s best to plan your route ahead of time and read google reviews for current road conditions. A 4WD is recommended while road tripping Western Australia but not necessary. It gets you access to more remote places. 

Drive on the Left.  Like many former British territories, Australians drive on the left side of the road. It only takes a day to get used to if unfamiliar. 

Download Offline Maps.  Service is spotty and infrequent the further north you drive. Download offline maps, pin locations and plan your route a day ahead.  

Fuel.  Refuel before beginning the next stretch of your roadtrip. Keep your fuel gage at least half full. There are 100km stretches without gas stations. 

Be Cautious at Dusk & Dawn.  Kangaroos and wallabies are very active at dawn and dusk, especially along roadsides. Be extra cautious when driving during these hours. 

Elsewhere in Australia 

We traveled for over a month in Australia, visiting worldly cities, beautiful national parks and natural wonders along the country’s east and west coasts as well as the famed Outback. Explore the energetic and beautiful city of Brisbane. Relax on the beaches and surf the waves of Byron Bay. Hike through the lush rainforests of Tropical North Queensland. Dive into the underwater wonders of The Great Barrier Reef. Visit the remote landscapes of and Uluru & The Outback.

For Next Time…

The rugged and beautiful landscapes of The Coral Coast and Western Australia are calling for us to return. 

Revisit Perth.  One day in the city wasn’t enough time. We plan to explore for at least a full weekend and take day trips to Fremantle and Rottnest Island. 

Roadtrip South.  The southwest of Western Australia would be a roadtrip of its own. We plan to spend two weeks hopping from wine country in Margaret River to the white sand shores of Twilight Beach.

The Far North.  Visit Broome and the nearby natural sites like The Coconut Wells, Horizontal Falls and Mimbi Caves.

Uluru & The Outback

Uluru, Australia 

Uluru is an ancient desert rock formation and sacred place to the Anangu people. The orange and ochre sandstone monolith towers over the vast desert landscape. It dates back 500 million years and is the source of many Anangu creation stories. Trails lead around the base of Uluru past caves, gorges and watering holes. Lookout points offer views of it and the picturesque surroundings. 

Uluru Base Walk.  A scenic trail looping 10.6km around the entire base of Uluru. The walk offers close up views and distant vantage points of the sandstone monolith. It passes sacred sights, gorges and caves used for generational and gender specific ceremonial purposes. Aboriginal creation stories and lessons are told through geological features and pitted markings covering the sandstone facade. Vertical veins of sediment run through the rock. Depending on the lighting, the surface changes between orange, red, maroon and chocolatey brown hues. The surrounding desert landscape is covered patches of orange soil, tufts of yellow grasses, dried bushes and lush trees.

Pro Tip. Begin the walk at the Mala Car Parkand follow the trail clockwise. Start in the morning and plan to finish by 11am. The entire walk can be completed in 3 hours. 

Mala Walk.  A 1km trail along the base of Uluru home to a significant number of sacred caves and aboriginal stories. The trail starts at the Mala Car Park. Signs share information about the caves, their stories and collections to Aboriginal culture. There are ranger guided tours at 8am daily.

• Teaching Cave / Boys Cave.  A small cave adorned in ochre paintings used for teaching survival techniques and lessons to “bush boys” during their transition to manhood. The 4,000 year old cave paintings feature illustrations of emu footprints, boomerangs, kangaroo hopping, symbols for travel and watering holes.   

• Men’s Cave.  A cave used by Aboriginal men for sharing hunting and water gathering knowledge. The cave is part of an aboriginal story involving the attack of a shape shifting “devil dog.” During the attack, four men were turned to stone, leaving their impressions behind in the cave wall.

• Woman’s Cave.  A cave used by Aboriginal women to pass down oral stories between generations. The cave resembles the pouch of a kangaroo, a symbol of fertility. Photos are not allowed. 

• Kitchen Cave.  A large cave traditionally used by Aboriginal women to prepare food and discuss family matters during ceremonial gatherings. The cave offers a continuation of the aboriginal story from the Men’s Cave. The shape shifting “devil dog” left its giant paw print on the cave wall near an impression of a woman that was turned to stone. It’s one of the only caves that can be entered.

• Old Person’s Cave.  A cave used by Aboriginal elders to share stories, prepare food and keep warm in cooler months. The walls are adorned with millennia old paintings while the ceiling is visibly blackened from smoke. 

• Kantju Gorge.  A scared gorge at the end of the Mala Walk. Towering stone walls flank a lush oasis and watering hole. The orange rock face bares a blackened streak from past waterfalls created during large rain events. The gorge is used for gathering water during Aboriginal ceremonies and reflecting. 

Mutitjulu Waterhole.  A sacred waterhole at the end of a verdant gorge. A shallow pool rests beneath a smoothed crevice and occasional waterfall at the base of Uluru. Stories of ancestral beings are told through geological markings on the stone walls surrounding the entrance of the gorge. 

Uluru Waterfalls & Frogs.  Uluru is the sight of a rare phenomenon after significant rain events. Waterfalls appear and desert frogs emerge from multi year hibernation. Thin veils of water trickle down the towering stone facades. Streams rush between crevices into watering holes at the monolith’s base. Thousands of desert frogs awake to feed and mate. Their clicking and humming croaks echo throughout the gorges. The phenomenon only occurs a few times a year. If fortunate enough visit during a significant rain event, visit the Kantju Gorge and Mutitjulu Waterhole.

Cultural Center.  A dual snake shaped building home to multiple galleries and exhibits about Anangu culture and the landscapes of Uluru. The center shares ancestral stories told through the geological formations of Uluru. Exhibits provide context regarding Anangu connection to the land, animals and seasons. It explains the traditional roles of men and women at various stages of their life. A gallery displays Aboriginal artwork and dot paintings. Signs explain how to respect Uluru’s sacred sights and the Anangu people.

Uluru Lookout Points

Uluru Sunrise Point.  A sunrise viewpoint of Uluru with nature walks and viewing platforms. Visit about an hour after sunrise when Uluru is fully illuminated and all the large tour buses have left. 

Uluru Sunset Point.  A desert viewpoint of Uluru with sunset views. Visit during golden hour to watch the setting sun cast warm glows across on the monolith. 

Ewing Lookout.  A desert lookout point accessible from the Coach Campground between Yulara and Uluru. It has some of the best sunset and night sky views of Uluru, Kata Tjuta and the desert. 

Uluru Lookout.  A lookout just outside of the Yulara with views of Uluru and the desert landscape. It’s an easy 15 minute walk from the town square.

Yulara Desert Loop.  A patch of desert with a series of brief nature trials accessible on foot from most hotels in town. Walk to the Imalung Lookout, the tallest point at its center with distant views of Uluru.

Field of Light.  A desert art installation made from tens of thousands of colors changing lights. Trails lead through the installation resembling a field of glowing tulips. Book with Ayers Rock Resort.

Yulara

Yulara is a resort town outside of Uluru with outback lodges, desert camps and hotels. There is a town square at its center with Aboriginal galleries, boutiques, a grocery store, cafe and restaurant. A couple of brief nature walks lead to desert lookouts within views of Uluru. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

• Kulata Academy Cafe.  A cafe and coffee shop with a range of sandwiches, savory pastries and sweets. The cafe supports Aboriginal locals…

• Native Gelato.  A gelato stand in the center of the town square with Australian flavors. Try the dark chocolate wattle seed and cinnamon Davidson plum 

• Outback Takeaway.  A takeaway restaurant and cafe at the Outback Hotel. Come here for fried bites, pastries and beverages. 

• Outback BBQ & Bar.  A barbecue station at the Outback Hotel with a selection of bush meats (emu, camel, & kangaroo) that can be purchased and self grilled onsite. Live music is performed nightly. Alcoholic beverages are only available for purchase if staying at the hotel.

Kata Tjuṯa

A sandstone monolith towering above the desert landscape. It’s comprised of 36 individual domed mounds making up the overall structure. 

Walpa Gorge.  A sacred gorge between two of Kata Tjuta’s largest stone monoliths. A 2.6km trail leads from the car park into the gorge. Pitted crevices mark its towering stone walls. Large conglomerate boulders are scattered across the landscape. Patches of yellow grasses and leafy trees sprout between amongst the orange terrain. 

Kata Tjuta Dunes Viewpoint.  A roadside lookout of Kata Tjuta and its large domed formations, the bush covered landscape and distant views of Uluru resting on the horizon. 

Kata Tjuta Sunset Viewpoint.  A viewpoint of Kata Tjuta and four of its stone domes. The orange monoliths and desert are well illuminated by the late afternoon sun. 

Kings Canyon & Watarrka National Park

Kings Canyon is an ancient canyon in Watarrka National Park. It cuts through the Australian outback and its orange hued desert landscape. Hiking trails lead around the canyon, its towering sandstone walls and lush oases. 

Kings Canyon Rim Walk.  A 6km loop trail leading around Kings Canyon and its most prominent sights. The trail begins with a steep ascent along the canyon wall to its plateau. It follows the canyon rim, passes through narrow crevices and across the l craggily rock terrain. The rim trail offers dramatic views of the canyon and its geological features. Stop to admire fossilized sea ripples and the maze of weathered sandstone domes. An occasional grey kangaroo and rock wallaby hop through the bush in the early morning. 

Priscilla’s Crack.  A narrow crevice between two domed rock formations. It’s named after a scene from the Australian cult classic, Priscilla Queen of the Desert. 

Kings Creek.  A narrow creek flowing through the center of Kings Canyon. It supports a variety of life including ancient ferns, fruiting bushes, medicinal plants and fragrant trees. 

Pro Tip.  Rest your ear against the trunk of a river gum tree after a heavy rain to hear them “drinking” and absorbing water. The trees grow near water and are recognizable by their smooth white bark.

The Garden of Eden.  A verdant oasis at the rear base of the canyon. Kings Creek flows through it, filing river pools and creating small waterfalls. The sounds of flowing water and singing birds reverberate between the canyon walls. 

South Wall Return Walk.  A 4.8km return trail along the south wall of King’s Canyon Rim Walk. It follows the canyon wall and plateau past domed sandstone formations and scenic lookouts. It’s less rigorous than the full Canyon Rim Walk. Visitors can hike this section in reverse from the parking lot for an easier trek.

South Wall Lookout.  A cliffside viewpoint of the canyon’s sandstone walls and sheer rock cliffs. A temporary waterfall cascades down a crevice in the canyon after heavy rains. The lookout is viewable from both the Kings Canyon Rim Walk and South Wall Return Walk. 

Good to Know. Plan to begin any hike at sunrise. Do not attempt the hike after 9am on days with temperatures forecasted to reach 36C (97F) or higher. 

Places to Stay

Outback Lodge.  A backpacker’s hotel with blocks of gendered dorms, private rooms and shared restrooms. An outdoor pool and air conditioned lounge offer places to relax. The hotel has its own takeaway restaurant, bbq station and. They offer luggage storage, nightly live music and Aboriginal cultural experiences. Reserve on Booking. 

Coach Campground.  An Outback campground on the edge of Yulara. Each site has an enclave of walk in tents built upon elevated platforms. Inside are twin beds and electric generators. There are communal dining halls, bbq grills, fire pits and a central facility with restrooms and showers. The camp is utilized by tour operators on “Uluru Safaris.”

Kings Creek Station.  An Outback campground near Kings Canyon & Watarrka National Park. In addition to tented campsites, there is a trading post with a small restaurant, cafe and shop selling water, snacks and souvenirs. A swimming pool offers refreshing plunges on hot days. A trail leads to a hilltop lookout point with sunset views. We camped here during our “Uluru Safari” with Adventure Tours Australia. 

Location Specifics

Visitor Maps.  Uluru, Kata Tjuta and Kings Canyon trails and points of interest are all very well marked. Download visitor maps when planning your day in each park.

Uluru Park Pass.  A park pass is needed to visit Uluru and Kata Tjuta. It’s only available as a 3 day or annual pass. Purchase it Online the day before visiting unless already included in a tour. 

Respect for Aboriginal Culture.  Obey no photography / videography zones to respect sacred sights. Don’t climb on Uluru or walk past fenced areas. Do not collect stones or sand as souvenirs. 

Extreme Heat.  The summer months invite extreme heat. Temperatures often exceed 40C (104F) and occasionally reach 50C (122F). Stay hydrated, cover your skin, wear loose flowy clothes and avoid peak heat hours. Be cautious when planning hikes.

Extreme UV.  Australia boasts many sunny days. It comes with the price of extreme levels of UV. Wear SPF 50+ sunblock, sunglasses and hats for protection. 

Summer Flies.  Swarms of pestering flies are a constant annoyance in Uluru during the summer months. Dozens hitch a ride on your clothes, buzz around your head and crawl on your face. Wear a fly net in addition to liberally applying insect repellent.

Getting Around

ATT Kings Bus (Airport Shuttle).  A free shuttle operating between the Ayers Rock Airport and the hotels in Yulara. Shuttles wait outside of baggage claim after arrival and pick up from hotels about two hours before flights depart. 

Uluru Hop On Hop Off Bus.  A shuttle service offering a range of transfers to Uluru and Kata Tjuṯa from the resort town of Yulara. This is the best option to visit the sights on your own without booking a formal tour. Purchase tickets online in advance to secure a seat. Book here!

Adventure Tours.  A tour company operating multi day safaris of Outback sights like Uluru, Kata Tjuta and King’s Canyon. We booked a 3 night safari, staying in different camps and visiting sights across the landscape with a small group and local guide. We booked in advance through Viator.

Elsewhere in Australia 

We traveled for over a month in Australia, visiting worldly cities, beautiful national parks and natural wonders along the country’s east and west coasts as well as the famed Outback.  Explore the energetic and beautiful city of Brisbane. Relax on the beaches and surf the waves of Byron Bay. Hike through the lush rainforests of Tropical North Queensland. Dive into the underwater wonders of The Great Barrier Reef. Roadtrip between coastal towns and national parks along The Coral Coast of Western Australia.

For Next Time…

Uluru, Kata Tjuta and Kings Canyon were incredible sights to visit and learn more about while in Australia’s Northern Territories. Next time we return, we plan to visit places elsewhere in the state. 

MacDonnell Range.  A mountain range with dramatic geological features, hiking trails and Outback campgrounds. 

Limmen National Park.  A remote wilderness park with sandstone rock formations, sprawling wetlands and wildlife. 

Kakadu National Park.  A rugged tropical landscape with rainforest, waterfalls and aboriginal cave paintings. 

Tropical North Queensland

Tropical North Queensland

Tropical North Queensland is one of the most biodiverse places on the planet. It’s home to jungleous rainforests, dramatic waterfalls, vast coral reefs, palm lined beach towns, peaceful nature walks and ancient species. We spent a week in the coastal city of Cairns, branching out and exploring many of the region’s natural wonders. 

Cairns, Queensland 

Cairns is an adventurous hub and coastal town in Tropical North Queensland, renowned for its access to the Great Barrier Reef and Daintree Rainforest. The town is home to restaurants, craft breweries, breakfast cafes, weekend markets and tour operators. 

Central Business District (CBD).  The CBD is the historic center of Cairns. Its shaded sidewalks and tree lined boulevards are lined with breakfast cafes, restaurants, craft breweries, tour operators and popular weekend markets.

Rusty’s Market.  A weekend farmers market with colorful displays of tropical fruits, vegetables, pastries, breads and juices. Artisans sell handmade crafts like beachy jewelry, shell decor, aboriginal artwork and vintage Hawaiian shirts. Thai vendors sell takeaway street food and offer massages.

Cairns Night Market.  An evening market with souvenirs shops, a food court, massage spas and nail salons. 

Esplanade Lagoon.  An outdoor swimming pool with a small sandy beach, series of boardwalks, lush lawns and bbq pits. It’s a popular spot to safely swim and enjoy the tropical atmosphere of Cairns. 

Cairns Esplanade.  A waterfront promenade spanning the length of Cairns. A series of walkways and boardwalks follow the coast through lush city parks, the esplanade lagoon, marina and restaurant wharf complex. 

Cairns Art Gallery.  An art museum with galleries displaying contemporary, indigenous and aboriginal artwork. It features works with themes of identity, ancestry, the landscape and creation stories. It’s free to visit! 

The Great Barrier Reef

The Great Barrier Reef is the world’s largest coral reef system. It’s accessible from Cairns on day trips and overnight live aboard. We spent three days snorkeling and diving in the reef. Read our full guide here, The Great Barrier Reef.

Daintree Rainforest 

The Daintree Rainforest is the world’s oldest surviving rainforest. It dates back 180 million years to the time of dinosaurs and the supercontinent Gondwana. The rainforest is a refuge for ancient species, tropical flora and jungleous landscapes. 

Cape Tribulation Wilderness Cruises.  A boat cruise along the crocodile inhabited Copper Creek. Dense mangrove trees and mangled root structures line its banks. Verdant rainforest blankets the inland terrain. Murky river water gradually mixes with the turquoise seawater of the delta. The occasional alligator is seen sunning on land and lurking beneath the surface of the water. 

Cape Tribulation Beach.  A remote place referred to as the “most dangerous beach in the world.” Its waters are inhabited by jellyfish, crocodiles and sharks. A nature trail leads through the tropical rainforest to a lookout point above the beach’s southern point. The shoreline meanders to a mangrove forest at its northern tip. 

Madja Botanical Walk.  A nature walk through the wetlands of the tropical forest. The trail passes beneath a dense canopy of fan palms, giant ferns, climbing vines, spiky plants and several hundred year old trees. It continues through a muddy and flooded mangrove forest. The hum of insects and songs of birds resonate in the air. 

Mossman Gorge.  A jungleous river gorge with nature trails, lookout points and beaches. River pools offer places to swim in the clear and cool water. Granite boulders of all sizes speckle the riverbed as verdant trees tower over its banks. Insects and birds can be spotted resting on leaves and perched in the tree top canopy. 

Daintree Ice Cream Company.  An ice cream shop serving exotic and tropical flavors made with fruit grown on the property. Try a combination of wattleseed, black sapote, mango, coconut and soursop. 

Experience Daintree.  A tour operator in Port Douglas offering day trips to the Daintree Rainforest. Book on Viator. 

Kuranda Forest

A tropical jungle with densely forested mountains, verdant landscapes and massive waterfalls. The forest is accessible from Cairns by a historic train line and scenic cable car. 

Kuranda Scenic Railway.  A historic railway with scenic views of the Kuranda Forest, its gorges, ridges, rivers and waterfalls. Antique carriages shuttle passengers along a series of twists, tunnels and bridges between Cairns and the Kuranda Village. The journey lasts about 2 hours including a brief stop at Barron Falls Lookout. Reserve tickets in advance here.

Barron Falls.  A massive rainforest waterfall in the Barron Gorge. A trickling stream of water flows over the craggily black stone gorge and cliffside pools during the dry season. It’s raging waters are best seen during the wet season from December to February. 

Stoney Creek Falls.  A cascading waterfall flowing down the face of tall rocky cliff. It’s visible from the Scenic Railway.

Kuranda Sky Rail.  A series of cable cars suspended above the lush treetop canopy of the Kuranda Forest. They offer panoramic views of the mountainous rainforest, its rivers and gorges. Stations at Barron Falls and Red Peak provide opportunities to explore nature trails surrounded by towering trees and tropical plants. Reserve tickets in advance here.

Kuranda Village.  A mountain village in the middle of the Kuranda Forest. Its main street is lined with ice cream shops, souvenir stores, aboriginal art galleries and small zoos. The Scenic Railway and Sky Rail make stops here.

Pro Tip.‍ ‍Ride the Scenic Railway up and take the Sky Rail down. 

Bird World Kuranda.  An avian park with “free roaming” Australian and tropical birds like macaws, parquets, cockatoos, finches, ducks and a cassowary. Come here to feed the birds seeds, nuts, crackers and fruits by hand. 

The Cassowary.  An ancient and endangered bird native to Queensland’s tropical forests. It’s one the closest living relatives to the dinosaurs and the third largest avian species. They’re recognizable by their blue and red faces, head top casque, black feathered body and three toed feet with large talons. 

Kuranda Koala Gardens.  A small zoo with endemic species of Australian animals like the koala, kangaroo, wallaby, crocodile, wombat and quokka. Come here to observe the animals close in their open air enclosures. Walk through the kangaroo and wallaby pen to hand feed the hopping marsupials pellets of grain. 

Beach Towns 

Palm Cove.  A small beach town with palm covered beaches and boutique resorts. It’s located 30 minutes north of Cairns by car. 

• Palm Cove Beach.  A white sand beach lined with tropical palm groves and turquoise blue waters. Come here to lounge on shore or at one of the many beachside restaurants, cafes or bars. There is a netted and swimmable area south of the pier. 

• Nu Nu Restaurant.  A beachfront restaurant on Palm Cove Beach with an outdoor patio overlooking the swaying palm groves and turquoise sea. Come here for afternoon cocktails and Aussie bites. 

• Buchans Point.  A tan sand beach with a clothing option section towards its south end. It’s a freeing spot to enjoy the coastal breeze and palm shaded shores. The beach is located just north of Palm Cove. 

Port Douglas.  A coastal town located between the Great Barrier Reef and Daintree Rainforest. It’s a popular place with access and excursions to both natural wonders. 

• Macrossan Street.  The Main Street through Port Douglas. The jungelous boulevard is lined with vacation rentals, beachwear shops, clothing boutiques, aboriginal art gallery’s, sports pubs, cafes and restaurants. 

• Four Mile Beach.  A lengthy tan sand beach lining the shores of Port Douglas. It’s a relaxing place for beach walks, sunbathing and swimming. There is a netted and guarded section with nearby the north end. 

• Flagstaff Hill Walking Trail.  A coastal trail with hillside views of Four Mile Beach and the deep blue ocean. Hike the trail an hour before sunset to watch for tropical birds like parquets and cockatoos. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Prawn Stars.  A floating seafood restaurant on a series of trawler boats in the marina. Come here for a kilo of the “Bugs,” a type of crustacean also known as slipper lobsters. 

Dundees on the Waterfront.  An elevated restaurant along the waterfront wharf with Australian dishes and cuisine. Come here for the seafood tower with local mud crab, bay bugs, prawns, fried calamari, barramundi oysters and mussels. Reservations are recommended!

Flamingo Tiki Bar.  A modern tiki bar with a vast menu of inventive cocktails and classic tiki drinks. Come here for the happy hour tiki drink of the day between 4-6pm. 

Waffles on Cairns.  A brunch spot specializing in everything waffles. Come for their sweet and savory waffles or waffle breakfast sandwiches. 

Mi Piace Espresso Bar.  A breakfast place with fancified egg dishes, speciality pancakes and smooth coffees. 

Sugio Cafe.  An all day cafe and coffee shop with Japanese dishes and matcha lattes. 

Hemingway Brewery.  A waterfront brewery along The Esplanade with a series of locally brewed craft beers. Try the 7th Heaven Tropical Ale! 

Australian Cuisine 

Bay Bugs.  A type of crustacean somewhere between a prawn and lobster with a sweet seafood flavor. They’re often served cold cut in half.

Mud Crab.  Large crabs harvested from the mangrove forests and estuaries. They’re a local delicacy served at many seafood restaurants. 

Barramundi.  A white fish native to North Eastern Australia. It’s commonly fried and served as fish & chips. 

Meat Pies.  Savory pies made with buttery crusts and meaty fillings are popular across Australia. Vegan meat and veggie options are difficult to find. 

Toasties.  A buttered and griddled sandwich usually with a cheesy filling and protein. It’s often served at breakfast, lunch or on the go.

Aussie Coffee.  Coffee shops and cafes sell local coffee beverages like the Flat White and Long Black. The flat white is essentially a double shot latte while the long black is another name for an Americano. 

Vegemite.  A yeasty sandwich spread made from fermented barley. It has a savory and umami flavor to it. Try a thin spread on buttered toast or bread. 

Tim Tams.  Two sandwiched chocolate cookies covered in rich milk chocolate. 

Pavlova.  A traditional Australian dessert made from flamed merengue lathered with berry jams and fruits. 

Location Specifics

Pronunciation.  Cairns is pronounced as Cans with long emphasis on the “a.”

Cash vs Card.  Credit and debt card are the most common forms of payment. Cash is rarely used but accepted. 

Tipping.  Tipping is not generally expected in Australia. It’s common to round up on most bills or leave 5-10% at higher end restaurants. 

Beware of Crocs.  Crocodiles are prevalent  in the creeks and coastal waters of Cairns. Avoid entering or approaching any non-designated beaches or waterways. 

Stinger Season.  The time of year when poisonous jellyfish inhabit the coastal waters of tropical North Queensland. Stinger season starts in late October and lasts until May. Only swim in netted areas or with a wetsuit when in the reef.

Sun Protection.  The UV is often extreme on sunny days. It best to wear sun cream with a minimum of 50 SPF. Make sure it’s reef friendly if going in the water! 

When to Visit.  The end of Spring in mid October is one of the best times of year to visit tropical north Queensland. The temperature is warm, days are sunny and waters are typically calm. 

Getting Around

On Foot.  The streets and promenade of the CBD are easily walkable and best explored on foot.

By Uber.  Getting around town outside of the CBD is best by Uber. Avoid calling an uber during the morning and late afternoon rush hours.

By Car.  The rainforest and beach towns north of Cairns are best reachable by rental car. We rented a car from Sixt at the airport for a few days of our travels here. 

Where to Stay

Cairns Airbnb.  An apartment rental located about 15 minutes from the CBD in a residential area of Cairns. The private space has a fully functional kitchen, comfy bed and spacious outdoor patio.  Book on Airbnb.

Elsewhere in Australia 

We traveled for over a month in Australia, visiting worldly cities, beautiful national parks and natural wonders along the country’s east and west coasts as well as the famed Outback. Explore the energetic and beautiful city of Brisbane. Relax on the beaches and surf the waves of Byron Bay. Dive into the underwater wonders of The Great Barrier Reef. Roadtrip between coastal towns and national parks along The Coral Coast of Western Australia. Visit the remote landscapes of and Uluru & The Outback.

For Next Time…

One week is barely enough time to experience Tropical North Queensland. Australia and this region of the country are high on our list to return to one day. These are just a few of the natural wonders we’ll come back to visit. 

Walshs Pyramid.  A freestanding mountain, naturally shaped like a pyramid. Hiking trails lead around the mountain’s base and to its verdant summit. 

Kahlpahlim Rock (Lambs Head) Lookout.  A rainforest mountain peak characterized by its large granite boulders. It’s accessible after a rigorous hike through the tropical terrain.

Whitsunday Islands National Park & Whitehaven Beach.  A chain of islands famed for their powdery white sand beaches, multicolored blue waters and coral reefs. 

Undara Volcanic National Park.  A national park home to Australia’s largest lava tube, volcanic craters and though not tropical, lush savannas of grasses and trees.

Chillagoe-Mungana Caves National Park.  A national park with large limestone formations, underground caves, hiking trails and aboriginal rock art. 

Torres Strait Islands.  An archipelago located between the northern tip of Queensland the southern shores of Papa New Guinea. It’s home to an array of ecological diversity and indigenous peoples. 

The Great Barrier Reef

The Great Barrier Reef

The Great Barrier Reef is the world’s largest coral reef system, stretching for hundreds of miles along the coast of Australia. It’s home to an incredible array of marine bio diversity including billions of corals, anemones, schools of tropical fish, sea turtles, sharks and rays. We snorkeled and dived in this underwater world in between relaxing on a live aboard and exploring on shore. 

Cairns, Queensland 

Cairns is an adventurous hub and coastal town in Tropical North Queensland, renowned for its access to the Great Barrier Reef. The town is home to restaurants, craft breweries, breakfast cafes, weekend markets and tour operators. 

The Great Eight

The Great Eight are the most iconic marine species that represent the Great Barrier Reef. The list includes: 

1. Clownfish 

2. Giant Clams

3. Sea Turtles

4. Sharks

5. Māori Warsse

6. Potato Cod

7. Manta Rays

8. Whales

During our three days on the reef, we spotted clownfish swimming in anemones, opened giant clams, feeding green sea turtles and white tipped reef sharks. The Māori warsse, potato cod and manta rays proved to be allusive however we spotted other colorful and large fish as well as sting rays.

Good to Know.  To spot whales, visit during their migration season between May and September. 

Tour Operators 

Cairns is home to many well reviewed tour operators offering single and multi-day trips to The Great Barrier Reef. Excursions often include snorkeling, scuba diving, introductory courses and all aquatic gear. We booked a two day one night live aboard with Diver’s Den on Viator and a separate day trip with Silver Swift on Get Your Guide.

Diver’s Den.  A scuba and snorkel operator with single and multi day trips to sites around The Great Barrier Reef. We joined their 2 day 1 night live aboard. It included 3 guided snorkel tours per day, a private cabin and all meals. The ship, the Ocean Quest has several public spaces including the dive deck, dining room, indoor lounge and outdoor sun deck, perfect for viewing the ocean by day and stars by night.

Silver Swift.  A scuba and snorkel operator with single day trips to sites around The Great Barrier Reef. It included two free style snorkel tours, a guided introductory scuba dive and a vegetarian friendly buffet lunch. 

Pro Tip.  Bring a sweater! The AC on the boats is very cold, especially after getting out of the water. 

Saxon Reef 

Saxon Reef features large underwater formations like coral boomies, cliffs and gardens. It’s home to wide variety of marine life including tropical fish, sea turtles, cuddle fish, rays and eels. We snorkeled at three separate sites around the reef.

Twin Peaks Dive Site.  A popular snorkel and dive site in Saxon Reef with massive coral structures and sandy ocean patches. Tropical fish flash their solid and prismatic patterned scales while green sea turtles drift by. It’s an easy location to spot clownfish, parrotfish, triggerfish, puffers, colorful wrasse, angelfish and unicorn fish. 

Coral Garden Dive Site.  A healthy coral garden home to an array of underwater life. The reef supports all manner of strange shaped corals resembling antlers, brains, mushrooms, ruffles, tubes and flat fans. Their bright green, iridescent blue, deep purple, yellow and pink colors stand out among shades of tan, grey and mauve. 

Sandra’s Dive Site.  A popular scuba and snorkeling point in Saxon Reef. It’s home to all types of coral formations and marine life. Large eels weave between corals. Stingrays rest on the sandy ocean floor. Green sea turtles surface for air. Large barracuda swim by menacingly. Cuddle fish lurk in the depths. Stingrays rest on the sandy ocean floor. Juvenile giant clams open and close skittishly.

Hastings Reef

Hastings Reef is a stunning bow shaped reef with sprawling coral gardens and coral walls. It’s home to diverse array of sea life including sharks, schools of fish, giant clams and starfish. 

Sandra’s Dive Site.  An expansive area of Hastings Reef with vibrant coral formations rising from the depths like an underwater mountain. White tipped reef sharks patrol the reef wall while scuba divers watch below for cephalopods. Schools of tropical fish swim in all directions and in-between the coral crevices. Giant clams rest on the seafloor with their blue shells wide open. The occasional starfish lays sprawled out across jagged corals. 

Flynn Reef

Flynn Reef is a spectacular example of the Great Barrier Reef’s biodiversity. The ever changing coral structures and array of marine life make it an idyllic site to snorkel, free dive and scuba dive. We visited three separate sites across the reef.

Coral Garden Dive Site.  A lively section of Flynn Reef with layered meadows of corals and pockets of sandy depressions. It’s home to an aquarium of tropical fish and sea creatures. Large schools of tiny fish and small groups of large fish swim between coral structures, hide in their crevices and bite at their protruding nodules. We drifted with the ocean currents and free dived for closer views of tiny starfish, giant clams and families of clownfish brushing through anemones.

Tracy’s Bommie Dive Site.  A section of Flynn Reef with narrow channels and underwater sea arches formed by coral structures. Its vibrant colored corals are home to sea turtles, conches, giant clams and multitudes of tropical fish like pufferfish, clownfish and rainbow parrotfish. 

Gordon’s Dive Site.  An idyllic dive site for beginners with massive coral formations, sea anemones and tropical fish. Our introductory dive brought us to shallow depths of 10-12 meters for about 30 minutes. The dive instructor led us in-between coral crevices and alongside coral walls. We were able to learn some scuba basics while navigating on our own under the close watch of the dive teacher.

Caring for the Reef

The Great Barrier Reef and all coral reefs for that matter are extremely fragile environments. There are a few simple things to keep in mind while visiting the reef.

• Wear reef safe sun block 

• Don’t touch or take anything 

• Avoid stepping on or kicking the corals 

• Book reputable tours with good reviews 

• Don’t chase or feed the marine life 

• Don’t litter or leave anything behind 

Dry vs Wet Season 

The Great Barrier Reef can be visited at any time of year however the dry season often offers the most favorable conditions. We chose to visit in mid October at the end of the dry season. 

The Dry Season.  A period lasting from May through October. It’s characterized by calm seas, clear water, little rain and cooler temperatures. Peak whale migration happens between May to September. 

The Wet Season.  A period lasting from November to April. It’s characterized by hot temperatures, frequent rainstorms and less visibility. It coincides with the jellyfish spawns of “stinger season.” Wear a wet suit! 

Underwater Photography 

Capturing photos underwater in The Great Barrier Reef is possible with most smart phones and a specialty case. We used the Pictar Waterproof Smartphone Case available on Amazon. 

Tropical North Queensland 

After visiting the Great Barrier Reef, spend time exploring Tropical North Queensland. The region is one of the most biodiverse places on the planet. It’s home to jungleous rainforests, dramatic waterfalls, palm lined beaches and exotic wildlife. Read our full guide here, Tropical North Queensland.

Elsewhere in Australia 

We traveled for over a month in Australia, visiting worldly cities, beautiful national parks and natural wonders along the country’s east and west coasts as well as the famed Outback. Explore the energetic and beautiful city of Brisbane. Relax on the beaches and surf the waves of Byron Bay. Roadtrip between coastal towns and national parks along The Coral Coast of Western Australia. Visit the remote landscapes of and Uluru & The Outback.

For Next Time…

The Great Barrier Reef is absolutely massive! As lovers of the underwater world, this won’t be our only time visiting it. Next time we return, we plan to base ourselves in the Whitsunday Islands. 

Whitehaven Beach.  A world famous white sand beach with swimmable turquoise waters and fringing coral reefs. 

Whitsunday Live Aboard.  Visit the island chain’s and their reefs on a multi night live aboard. 

Scenic Flight over Heart Reef.  An areal view of the reef system and one shaped like a heart. 

A Weekend in Byron Bay

Byron Bay, Australia

Byron Bay is a laidback beach town and surfers paradise on Australia’s far eastern coast. Surfers line up to catch consistent waves and offer beginner lessons. Sun kissed beachgoers relax along white sand shores and meet up at nightly happy hours. Colorful streets are flanked by vibey cafes, diverse restaurants, beachy boutiques and surf shops. We spent a weekend here surfing, sunbathing and enjoying the atmosphere of the coastal town. 

Things to Do

Take Surf Lessons. There are numerous surf schools in Byron Bay. We booked a two day group lesson with Soul Surf School, shuttling between Byron Bay, Seven Mile Beach and Sharps Beach for morning surf classes. Surf boards and wet suits are included. 

Ride the Byron Solar Train.  A solar powered vintage train that travels between Byron Beach and North Beach. Rides take less than 10 minutes. It operates every hour between 10am - 5pm. Tickets can be purchased in person.

Hike The Cape Byron Walking Path.  A coastal walkway with scenic overlooks, forested trails, beaches and a lighthouse. Come here to watch for marine life including whales, sea turtles and dolphins. Signage shares knowledge about the landscape and its importance to the Arakwal people. The trail loops 3.7km from The Pass Parking Lot.

Beaches & Coastal Sights 

Byron Beach.  A squeaky white sand beach accessible from the center of town. It’s a popular spot to swim, sunbathe and surf. Surf schools line the town’s main street while surfers ride the gentle waves.

The Pass.  A popular surf spot for beginner and intermediate surfers. Small and steady waves cruise into Byron Beach after breaking near Fisherman’s Lookout. 

Fisherman’s Lookout.  A coastal lookout point on the rocks above The Pass. It’s a beautiful spot to admire the bay and watch surfers catching waves.

Wategos Beach.  A small beach nestled between two rocky points. It’s popular for sunbathing, body surfing and dolphin spotting. 

Australia’s Most Easterly Point.  A viewpoint of the Pacific Ocean marking Australia’s most easterly point. Come here to spot sea turtles in the waters below the cliffs and migrating whales in the far distance. 

Cape Byron Lighthouse.  A historic lighthouse perched on the cliffside peak of Australia’s most easterly point. It offers panoramic views of the forested woodlands, white sand beaches and Pacific Ocean. 

Sharps Beach.  A sandy beach with a rocky point and consistent surf conditions for beginner and intermediate surfers. We came here our second day of surf lessons.

Seven Mile Beach.  A long sandy beach with beginner surf breaks and sand bars. It’s a popular spot for instructors to teach lessons and locals to have play time with their pups. 

Lake Ainsworth.  A coastal freshwater lagoon tinted brown by tree tea oil. Come here for a refreshing snd therapeutic swim after surf lessons. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Stone & Wood Brewery Byron Bay.  A large brewery in North Beach with a range of craft beers and bites. Come here for a flight to sample several seasonal brews on tap. Try the Barrel Aged Stone Beer. 

Balcony Bar & Oyster Co.  A seafood restaurant in the center of Byron Bay. Come here for fresh and the loaded oysters. Try the version topped with creme fraiche, horseradish and caviar. 

Blue Cow Gelato.  An gelato and ice cream shop with large scoops and unique flavors like pavlova, butterfly pea flower and Turkish delight. 

The Hum.  A waterfront cafe across the Byron Beach with coffees, smoothies, açaí bowls and a range of breakfast dishes. Come here before or after a surf lesson. 

Roca.  A vibey restaurant with a style Spanish tapas menu and 2 for 1 happy hour cocktails from 5-7pm. 

Miss Margarita.  A Mexican restaurant with tacos, quesadillas and shareable starters like chips & salsa or guacamole. Come here for the daily happy hour margaritas and mojitos from 5-6pm.

Breads Pies Cakes.  A bakery selling everything in its name. Come here for the sweet and savory miniature pies like apple raspberry or spinach cheese. 

Where to Stay

Rainforest Retreat.  A cute cottage nestled in the tropical jungle outside of town. It’s surrounded by towering trees, verdant foliage and the echoing sounds of birds and insects. An outdoor patio offers the perfect place to enjoy the nature. Book on Airbnb. 

Getting Here & Around 

Greyhound Australia.  Book tickets on the Greyhound bus to reach Byron Bay from Brisbane. The ride takes about 3 hours, passing through the Gold Coast on the way south. Book tickets online here. 

On Foot.  The city center and surrounding area is small and easily walkable. For further distances, take an Uber. 

Location Specifics

Time Change.  Depending of the time of year, Byron Bay is on a different time zone than Brisbane due to the practice of daylight savings time in New South Wales. 

When to Visit.  Mid October is one of the best times of year to visit Byron Bay. The southern spring weather is idyllic with warm sunny days and cool cozy nights. 

Sunblock.  Wear SPF 50+.The UV is significantly higher due to its location in the southern hemisphere and depleted ozone layer. 

Tipping.  Tipping is not generally expected due to fare and regulated wages. Best practice is to round up on bills or leave a small tip for exception service. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit card is widely accepted everywhere. Cash is rarely needed. 

Elsewhere in Australia 

We traveled for over a month in Australia, visiting worldly cities, beautiful national parks and natural wonders along the country’s east and west coasts as well as the famed Outback. Explore the energetic and beautiful city of Brisbane. Hike through the lush rainforests of Tropical North Queensland. Dive into the underwater wonders of The Great Barrier Reef. Roadtrip between coastal towns and national parks along The Coral Coast of Western Australia. Visit the remote landscapes of and Uluru & The Outback.

For Next Time…

Time passes slowly yet quickly in Byron Bay.  Next time we return, we plan to surf more of the nearby beaches, visit other coastal towns and explore The Hinterlands. 

The Gold Coast.  A beachy metropolis north of Byron Bay with golden sand beaches, beginner surf breaks, towering skyscrapers, seafood restaurants and craft breweries. 

Tallow Beach.  A lengthy white sand beach on the coast opposite of Byron Bay. It’ has a popular surf break and national park with nature trails. We were able to overlook it from the Cape Byron Lighthouse.

Tallebudgera Creek Beach.  A blue and emerald hued creek with beaches along its sandy banks.

The Hinterland.  A tropical rainforest with lush valleys, waterfalls, volcanic calderas, hiking trails, wine vineyards, small towns and campgrounds.

Brisbane, Queensland

Brisbane, Queensland

Brisbane is a sunny subtropical city with trendy neighborhoods, bountiful green spaces and access to Australia’s east coast. We spent a few days here exploring the city and its offshore islands on a trip through Queensland. 

Neighborhoods & Streets

Fortitude Valley.  A trendy neighborhood with brunch spots, designer boutiques and nightlife. It’s a lush and walkable area with plenty to do by day and night. 

St Ann & Brunswick Streets.  The nightlife streets in Fortitude valley with music venues, gay bars and restaurants. 

Westend.  A vibrant and grungy neighborhood with late night restaurants, cocktail bars, breweries and live music venues. It’s a popular spot with younger Australians and the queer community. 

Boundary Street.  The main street in Westend home to many of the neighborhood’s restaurants and bars. 

Howard Smiths Wharves.  A lively riverfront wharf under the Story Bridge with breweries, restaurants and walking paths. 

South Bank Parklands.  A riverfront park with a leisurely walkways, an artificial beach, ferris wheel, vibey restaurants and cafes. 

The Brisbane River 

The Brisbane River meanders through the city and its many neighborhoods. It’s lined with riverside parks, clifftop viewpoints and boardwalks. Dozens of unique bridges span between its banks, coining the city’s nickname, “Bridgebane.” Plan to spend time exploring the riverside on foot and by ferry! 

City Botanical Gardens.  A large city park nestled between the skyscrapers of the CBD and the Brisbane River. It’s home to lush walkways, riverfront lookouts, mangroves and gardens. Exotic and flowering trees transport visitors to a tropical rainforest in the middle of the city. 

New Farm Riverwalk.  A geometric boardwalk over the Brisbane River. It offers scene views of the city’s skyline, riverside home and Story Bridge.

Wilson Outlook Reserve.  A cliffside park along the Brisbane River with views of the Story Bridge and city skyline. It’s accessible from Howard Smiths Wharfs.  

Brisbane Riverwalk.  A riverside boardwalk located between the Neville Bonner Bridge and Goodwill Bridge. Both bridges are pedestrian only bridges and offer beautiful views of the city.

Kangaroo Point Lookout & Riverwalk.  A cliffside park along the Brisbane River with walking paths and views of the city’s skyline. 

Eat Street.  A vibrant weekend food market with dozens of kitchens serving street food and cuisine from all around the world. It’s built along a riverside wharf from colorful shipping containers, covered sheds and stages with live music. The market is open from Friday to Sunday from 4pm-9pm. Get here by taking the City Cat Ferry to the North Shore Hamilton Ferry Terminal. 

Places to Eat & Drink

The Burrow.  An artsy and casual restaurant with local beers, cocktails, live music and baskets of pub food like burgers, nachos and pizzas. 

The Boundary.  An elevated pub and sports betting bar. Come here for the wide selection of beers on tap and international dishes with an Aussie twist. Come for the fish and chips!

Covent Garden.  A bar with the world’s largest collection of Australian made gins. Come here for a gin tasting or round of craft cocktails.

Jungle Bar.  A dimly light and tropical feeling tiki bar with all the classic tiki drinks and rum cocktails like the mai tai, pina colada, painkiller and navy’s grog. 

Barbossa Bar & Bottle.  A rum bar and restaurant in East Banks with a wide range of cocktails, rums and island inspired tapas dishes. Try the Zombie & the Ship is Wrecked. 

King Arthur Cafe.  A brunch spot in Fortitude Valley with large fresh baked cookies and classic dishes like eggs benedict, avocado toast, açaí bowls and waffles. 

Epilo.  A “plant cafe” decorated with pots of verdant botanicals and terrariums. Come here for the  artisan coffees and fresh baked pastries.

Felon’s Brewery.  A riverfront brewery located at the base of the Story Bridge. Come here for pints of local beers, boozy cocktails and pub style food. 

North Stradbroke Island 

A protected island home to Australian wildlife like kangaroo, wallaby and koala. Its seaside cliffs and lengthy white sand beaches offer opportunities to spot marine creatures like manta rays, sea turtles, humpback whale, dolphins and sharks. 

North Gorge Walk.  A cliffside nature walk through forested paths with scenic views of the coast. Come here to spot all types of marine and wildlife. Kangaroos and wallaby can be spotted grazing on grass and resting in the shade. Manta rays gracefully glide underwater, sea turtles surface for breaths of air, pods of dolphins porpoise in the waves and sharks hunt for prey. 

Humpback Whale Migration.  Humpback whales migrate along the eastern coast of Queensland between June and November. Pods of whales spray geysers of water and continually breach the surface with a massive splash. The best views of them can be seen from the cliffside lookouts along the North Gorge Walk.

Pro Tip.‍ ‍Bring binoculars to watch wildlife and a camera to capture images better than the zoom on a phone. 

Cook’s Seat.  A hilly lawn overlooking Frenchman’s Beach. Come here for a picnic lunch or order a meal and local beer from one of the nearby cafes or restaurants. 

Main Beach.  A lengthy white sand beach hugged by turbulent aquamarine waters. It’s popular with experienced surfers. Visit the North Gorge Walk for its best views.

Cylinder Beach.  A white sand beach with a small protected swimming area, a surf school and parking lot with trunk cafes. Keep an eye out for wild kangaroos nibbling on grasses.

Ballow Street.  A forested street with tall eucalyptus trees home to wild koalas. Walk the street towards the beach looking up for the cute and sleepy animals hugging onto the branches.

Straddie Brewing Co.  A brewery with craft beers brewed on the island. They’re sold virtually everywhere. Try the dark lager and jumpinpin IPA. 

Stradbroke Island Tours.  A company offering day trips to North Stradbroke Island from Brisbane. Their small group tour includes transportation, ferry tickets and wildlife spotting guides. We booked with Viator.

Morton Island 

Morton Island is a massive sandbar island famed for its pristine beaches, sunken shipwrecks, desert like sand dunes and forested trails. 

Tangalooma Island Resort.  A beautiful beachfront resort on Morton Island with access to its scenic nature. Take a day trip here from Brisbane to enjoy some beach time and a range of marine activities. We booked the Adventure Day Pass which included round trip ferry tickets, snorkel gear and kayak rentals. 

Tangalooma Wrecks.  A series of sunken metal ships protruding from the bay. They a habitat for corals and all types of colorful and tropical fish. Rent kayaks from the resort to paddled around them and snorkel gear to observe underwater marine life. 

Tangalooma Beach.  A beautiful white sand beach stretching the length of the Tangalooma Island Resort. It’s a popular place to spot starfish during low tide. Come here to swim, snorkel and sunbathe. 

Moreton Island Desert.  A white sand desert surrounded by forest. It’s a popular spot for dune walking and sand boarding. Walk along the beach from the Tangalooma Island Resort to the Desert Walking Path. The trail leads 2km uphill and through the forest to an opening overlooking the desert. 

Where to Stay

East Brisbane Tiny House.  A cozy and well equipped backyard caravan (aka camper). The tiny space has a comfy bed, dining area and outdoor patio with a grill. Book on Airbnb.

Getting Around 

Train.  The light rail is the best way of getting between neighborhoods and the airport. Tap your credit card when entering and exiting the stations.

Brisbane Airport Train. The airport train is the cheapest and most direct way of getting between the central business district and the airport. Board at the Roma Street Station or Central Station. 

On Foot.  Brisbane is very pedestrian friendly. Explore the city’s neighborhoods, bridges and parkways on foot. 

Uber.  Ubers are available across Brisbane. They can be extremely expensive. Try to avoid booking during rush hour.

By Ferry.  The City Cat Ferry makes stops up and down the Brisbane River. It’s a scenic and convenient way of getting around and sightseeing. Tap your card to pay when getting on and off. Fares cost $0.50 AUD.

Location Specifics

Sunblock.  Wear SPF 50+.The UV is significantly higher in Queensland due to its location in the southern hemisphere and depleted ozone layer. 

Tipping.  Tipping is not generally expected due to fare and regulated wages. Best practice is to round up on bills or leave a small tip for exception service. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit card is widely accepted everywhere. Cash is rarely needed. 

Elsewhere in Australia 

We traveled for over a month in Australia, visiting worldly cities, beautiful national parks and natural wonders along the country’s east and west coasts as well as the famed Outback. Relax on the beaches and surf the waves of Byron Bay. Hike through the lush rainforests of Tropical North Queensland. Dive into the underwater wonders of The Great Barrier Reef. Roadtrip between coastal towns and national parks along The Coral Coast of Western Australia. Visit the remote landscapes of and Uluru & The Outback.

For Next Time…

Brisbane is a beautiful and livable city that we see ourselves returning to one day! There is so much more to experience and explore when we do. A short list of places we missed but plan to visit next time are: 

Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary.  A koala sanctuary with all types of native Australian animals including kangaroos, platypus, Tasmanian Devils, dingoes, wombats, emus and crocodiles.

Mt Coot-tha.  A mountain park on the outskirts of Brisbane with nature trails leading through a eucalyptus forest to waterfalls, panoramic view points and a botanical garden. 

Mount Gravatt.  A hilltop lookout just outside of the city with numerous hiking trails. Come here to the sunset views and to spot wild koalas.

The Gold Coast.  A beachy metropolis south of Brisbane with golden sand beaches, beginner surf breaks, towering skyscrapers, seafood restaurants and craft breweries.