The Seychelles
The Seychelles
The Seychelles is remote island nation and tropical getaway in the Indian Ocean. The archipelago is famed for its powdery white sand beaches, orange granite boulders, vibrant turquoise waters, lush landscapes and scenic hiking trails. We spent a little over a week, island hopping and beach bumming between the Inner Islands of Mahe, Praslin and La Digue.
Mahe
Mahe is a seahorse shaped island with lush jungleous mountains, massive granite boulders, white sand beaches and turquoise waters. It’s the Seychelles largest and most populous island, hosting the capital city, Victoria, and international airport. It’s the perfect entry point to the tropical paradise!
Mahe Beaches
Anse Royale Beach. A crescent shaped tan sand beach with a lengthy shoreline, aquamarine waters and a swimmable bay. Photogenic granite boulders flank the north side of the beach. Pockets of palms offer a respite from the radiant sun. An offshore reef protects the bay from strong waves. A gentle current flows from north to south along shore. Drift snorkel over fields of seagrass home to tropical fish, urchins, eels and sea cucumbers.
Pro Tip. If driving here, there is a free parking lot with about 30 spaces. Arrive by 9am to get a spot.
Beau Vallon Beach. A crescent shaped white sand beach with calm swimmable waters. It’s Mahe’s largest beach, stretching kilometers along the northwest coast. Come here to enjoy long walks on the beach, watch nightly sunsets and spot fruit bats fluttering between trees. Resorts and restaurants provide places to stay, eat and drink. Tour operators advertise boat trips to nearby islands and beaches.
Mahe Sights
Takamaka Rum Distillery. Takamaka is the Seychelles only rum distillery and the archipelago’s most popular rum brand. They distill a series of rums from molasses and sugarcane including light, dark, aged, overproof and flavors infused with coconut and pineapple. The smell of molasses wafts around the property. Free tours are provided three times daily; no is reservation required. Tours last about an hour and offer glimpses inside the distillery, master blender’s workshop and museum. Finish the tour with a tasting of 8 different rum or with a cocktail at the bar. Mixologists stir and shake a range of rum cocktails. Try the Taka Dream and ZenZann. Order a shareable bites like croquettes, samosas or falafel from their food stand.
Jardin du Roi Spice. A historic garden with spices, medicinal plants, tropical fruit trees and endemic palms cultivated by the French colonizers of the Seychelles. Spend an hour walking through the trails, identifying trees and plants on a self guided tour using their map. Visit the tortoise pen with Giant Aldabra tortoises. Their restaurant offers scoops of homemade ice cream with flavors including nutmeg, vanilla, coconut and cinnamon.
National Botanical Garden. A lush and colorful botanical garden in Victoria featuring tropical plants, fragrant flowers, spice gardens, towering palms and giant Aldabra Tortoises. The scent of the Cannonball Tree flowers and plumerias wafts through the garden. The world’s largest coconut, the Coco de Mer, hangs from its palm trees. A pen houses dozens of Aldabra Tortoises, the world’s second largest species. Enter the pen to hand feed them greens as they slowly surround you.
Seychelles National Museum of History. A history museum dedicated to the island’s discovery, settlement, colonial past, independence, ties to piracy, slavery and the spice trade. Its exhibits feature artifacts like treasures from sunken ships, antique maps, cannons and iron shackles. Cultural displays share stories of the island’s folklore, music and traditional homes. The museum occupies a French Creole style building that once served as bank, treasury, courthouse, telegraph office and governor’s office.
Copolia Trail. A 1.4km trail leading through the dense jungle to a granite plateau with a panoramic views of the Mahe. The verdant and rugged trail ascends over exposed tree roots, past moss covered granite boulders and beneath Seychelles palms. The trail ends at a small ladder leading up to the exposed granite plateau. The clearing offering views of the island, its jungleous mountains and the urban center of Victoria. There’s even a patch of carnivorous pitcher plants. The trail is moderate hike, taking about an hour to reach the summit.
Good to Know. Free parking is available along the roadside just before the ticket office. The trail opens at 8am for 100 SCR per person.
Places to Eat & Drink on Mahe
Ocean Beach Restaurant. An affordable takeaway near Beau Vallon Beach with flavorful curries, salads, noodles and rice dishes. Come here for the smoked fish salad and fish curry.
Trader Vic’s. A famed tiki bar and restaurant with locations in tropical destinations around the world. We stopped by for an original Mai Tai and a couple rum cocktails.
Cafe 74. A cafe with pastries, fruit bowls and different types of croque monsieur. Order an iced coffee and a spread of pastries for a picnic breakfast at Anse Royal.
Where to Stay on Mahe
Maison Hibiscus Self Catering. A cute apartment complex with fully equipped studios for rent. It’s an affordable option nearby Beau Vallon Beach on Mahe. We booked on Airbnb.
Getting Around Mahe
Rental Car. The best way to get around Mahe when short on time is by car. Doffay Car Rentalis an extremely well reviewed and affordable rental car agency. They offer pick up from the airport and drop off at locations across the island, including the ferry jetty.
Victoria Car Park. A parking lot in the city center of Victoria. The first hour is free. A 1 hour or half day parking pass is needed for any additional time. The pass can be purchased from Antigone Bookstore down the street for a 5 to 15 rupees (less than $1 USD)
Praslin
Praslin is the postcard picture of a tropical paradise. The island is the second largest in the Seychelles, famed for its idyllic beaches, tropical forests and oceanfront resorts.
Praslin Beaches
Anse Lazio. A stunning white sand beach with some of the most vibrant shades of turquoise and blue in the Indian Ocean. Large orange granite boulders flank both ends, offering quintessential views of the Seychellois shoreline. Catamarans and yachts are anchored off shore. Passing showers make way to colorful rainbows. The tree line offers plenty of places to relax in the shade and listen to the waves crashing on shore. Small hotels and take away restaurants offer lounges for rent, food and drinks. A sandy clearing on the west side is perfect for sunbathing during high tide. Beyond the western boulders is a secluded beach and hidden bar.
Getting Here. Take the bus to the Anse Boudin stop. The beach is a 20 minute walk from here.
Petite Anse Lazio. A tiny white sand beach, flanked by smooth orange boulders and short leafy palm trees. It’s relatively secluded and only reachable via a trail from the eastern side of Anse Lazio. The trail leads uphill through palm thicket and over small boulders. Midway along the trail is a fork that leads to a scenic lookout of Anse Lazio.
Cote d’Or Beach (Anse Volbert). A lengthy white sand beach in Anse Volbert Village. Its shallow aquamarine waters stretch hundreds of meters into the ocean. Wade through them to an outcrop of orange granite boulders on the south end of the beach. Walk to towards the north end, stopping to pose with a photogenic palm tree leaning over the white sand. It’s a quiet and convenient area to stay. Small hotels, take away restaurants, grocery stores and tour operators line the beachfront road in the village.
Good to Know. Be cautious of difficult to spot stingrays. Wear water shoes for protection.
Anse Georgette. A small and secluded white sand beach at the Lemuria Resort. There are a couple fruit, juice and cocktail vendors along the tree line. Order the coconut mixed with rum and garnished with a hibiscus flower! The currents can make it difficult to swim while the waves are excellent for body surfing.
Good to Know. The number of visitors is limited but not heavily enforced. Call a week in advance to reserve a spot.
Getting Here. Take the bus to the Mont Plaisir stop. Check in at the Lemuria Resort and walk 20 minutes across the golf course to the beach.
Praslin Sights
Fond Ferdinand Nature Reserve. A lush nature reserve with trails leading through the island’s tropical palm forest. Spend a couple hours walking the trails and spotting wildlife like the Seychelles Day Gecko, Seychelles Black Parrot and Seychelles Fruit Bat. Trails meander uphill through an expansive grove of Coco de Mer Palms to the reserve’s lookout point. Views from its hilltop boulders peer across St Anne’s Bay towards the Inner Islands. The high winds ruffle the fronds of giant palms and surrounding plants. Before leaving, visit a pen with two giant Aldabra tortoises.
Good to Know. The park opens at 8:30am but staff will let you in starting at 8am. Bring insect repellant.
Getting Here. Take the bus to the Anse Consolation stop. The park entrance is a quick walk away from here.
Pro Tip. Buses only pass by every 1-2 hours on this side of the island. Ask the staff at the ticket office for the current bus schedule to plan your departure time accordingly.
Places to Eat & Drink on Praslin
Leo’s Food. A beachside takeaway at Côte d’Or Beach. Come here for their Hawaiian fish burger, curry prawns in rice and Takamaka rum & coke.
Honesty Bar. A hidden bar nestled in the jungle beyond the western boulders of Anse Lazio Beach. Come here for their Creole Punch made with three shots of Takamaka Rum and your choice of fruit juice. They have the best priced drinks on the beach!
The Chill Grill. A beach front takeaway restaurant at Anse Lazio Beach with a range of grilled and fried bites. Come here for their grilled fish and chips!
Where to Stay on Praslin
Mountain Lodge. A two floor house nestled in the lush hillside above Côte d’Or Beach in Anse Volbert Village. The spacious house has two bedrooms, a full kitchen and spacious living area. An outdoor balcony offers views of the coast, perfect for enjoying with a morning coffee. The back patio has a grill for barbecuing and relaxing during the evenings. Reserve on Booking.
Getting Around Praslin
Praslin Bus. The public bus on Praslin is the easiest and cheapest way to get around the island. Bus stops are clearly marked on the pavement. Locals and bus drivers are kind and offer to help if unsure of how to get somewhere. Refer to the Praslin Bus Route. The time tables are out of date but the routes are still accurate.
Good to Know. It’s prohibited to bring luggage besides hand bags and totes onto the bus. Need to buy a refillable SPTC card to ride the buses. Fares cost 10 SCR. The card can be purchased from convenient stores around the Praslin Ferry Jetty when arriving on the island. We bought ours at Supermarket Kot Merilin.
Taxis. As buses don’t allow luggage onboard, taxis are the only option to and from the ferry jetty and most accommodations. Unfortunately, drivers know this and charge a steep price to get anywhere on the island. A single 10 minute ride can cost €25.
La Digue
La Digue is a small and sleepy tropical island. It’s a picturesque paradise with white sand beaches, swaying palm trees, colorful flowers and iconic granite boulders. Bicycles are the main way of getting around though much of the island can be walked on foot.
La Passe. The island’s main town. Its sandy cobblestone streets are flanked by lush palm trees and beachy buildings with hotels, tiny home stays, bike rentals, barbecue restaurants and bars. The ferry jetty welcomes new visitors and bids others bon voyage.
La Digue Beaches & Boulders
Anse Patates. A small but idyllic Seychellois beach. Its white sand shore is dappled with shade from leaning palm trees. Dramatic granite boulders flank both sides of the beach. Cerulean waters and white capped waves crash onshore. A small area between two large boulders acts as a natural wave pool. The beach is best to visit during low tide and not the safest for swimming.
Anse Severe. A white sand beach with several beachfront shacks serving takeaway meals, fresh fruit juices and cocktails. Its views look across the Indian Ocean towards the nearby Inner Islands. Put on a pair of water shoes and wade out into the rocky shallows to spot sea creatures like rays, parrot fish and sea cucumber. Two Giant Aldabra tortoises lounge alongside sunbathers and stray dogs.
Anse Source D'Argent. A photogenic beach with large granite formations, leaning palm trees, soft white sand shores and turquoise hued waters. It’s easily one of the Seychelles most famous beaches. Arrive early to spend the day relaxing on shore and swimming in the vibrant waters. Fruit vendors welcome visitors with free coconuts!
Getting Here. The beach officially opens at 8am. You have to pay to enter via L’Union Estate. Tickets cost 150 SCR per person. Walk through the estate and its spice gardens past Giant Union Rock and the Aldabra Tortoise pens to reach the scenic seaside beach trail.
Grand Anse & Petite Anse. Two twin beaches on the south eastern coast of the island. Grand Anse is the larger of the two. Its shore is flanked by dramatic granite rock formations and boulders. The soft and cushiony white sand is perfect for laying out or picnicking. Petite Anse is the smaller of the two beaches, though still sizable, and very similar in scenery. It’s reachable via a trail on the north side of Grand Anse, taking 10 minutes to reach.
Good to Know. The waves and currents make it too dangerous to swim. Beware of Portuguese Man of Wars or Bluebottles that wash up onshore.
Anse Coco. A remote crescent shaped white sand beach on the south eastern side of the island. Enter the beach on the south end near Coco Bar. There is a protected cove flanked by large boulders at the north end, perfect for sunbathing and swimming. The currents and waves make the remainder of the beach too dangerous for swimming.
Getting Here. Anse Coco is reachable via a clearly marked trail leading from the south side of Petite Anse. The tail leads through the forest and over rocks. Keep an eye out for geckos, salamanders, crabs and giant millipedes. It takes between 20-30 minutes to reach.
Caiman Beach. A small but swimmable beach protected by rocks. It’s reachable from Anse Coco or by hiking the Marcus Trail at the Coast. There is a small restaurant serving barbecue, fruit juices and cocktails. Beyond the bar are two large tide pools, perfect for lounging in the refreshing waters.
Marcus Trail at the Coast. A coastal nature trail on the eastern tip of the island. It leads from the “end of the road” near Anse Fourmis to the Caiman Beach Bar. You have to climb over boulders, through crevices, across platforms and makeshift stairs. Yellow painted arrows help point the correct direction. The trial continues onwards towards Anse Coco, Petite Anse and Grand Anse.
Places to Eat & Drink on La Digue
Bikini Bottom. A beach front takeaway at Anse Severe. Come here for a Slow Turtle Cider and admire the Giant Aldabra Tortoises at sunset.
Rey & Josh Takeaway. A very affordable Seychellois style takeaway with a small daily menu. Come here for the fish fillet with creole sauce and the fish curry.
Fruita Cabana Bar. A rasta themed beachfront fruit stand with vibey music at Anse Source D'Argent. They offer fresh fruit juices, coconuts and iced coffees. Try the coconut candy, fresh coconut garnished with sugar and lime juice!
Ton Greg’s Pizzeria. A local spot with well sized wood fired pizzas. Try their Seychellois pizza made with smoked fish and red onions.
Coco Bar. A beachfront takeaway at Coco Beach offering fresh fruit juices and a barbecue lunch buffet. It’s renowned across the island for its delicious selections! They served whole grilled fish, grilled fish steaks, chicken coconut curry, chow main, white rice and salad. Even despite its remote location, dozens of people flock here around noon for a plate.
Caiman Beach Bar. A seaside bar on eastern tip of the island. It’s reachable after a 20 minute hike from Coco Beach or 30 minute hike along the Marcus Trail at the Coast. They serve barbecue lunch, crush juices and rum cocktails. Prices here are quite expensive.
Chez Jules Restaurant. A Creole restaurant overlooking the island’s eastern coast. They serve Seychellois dishes, seafood, mocktails and Takamaka rum cocktails. We stopped in for drinks while walking around the island. Try the mango daiquiri and Taka Love, a rum and coconut concoction.
Where to Stay in La Digue
Pension Hibiscus. A “self catering” style hotel with individual apartment rentals in La Passe. Each unit has a fullt equipped kitchen, private restroom, cozy bedroom and an outdoor patio. It’s within walking distance to the ferry jetty, beaches, grocery stores, restaurants and bars. Reserve on Booking.
Getting Around La Digue
La Digue is a very small island, easily navigable on foot, by bike or golf cart. Most hotels provide bikes for guests to use while a few rental agencies near the La Passe ferry terminal rent golf carts and bikes by the day.
Getting Between Islands
Inner Island Ferries. Ferries are the best way to get between the Seychelles Inner Islands of Mahe, Prasllin and La Digue. Cat Cocos is the main company operating routes between the islands. Book tickets with Sey Ferry online in advance to secure a seat.
Good to Know. Do not underestimate the rough seas. Many people began experiencing sea sickness about 20 minutes into the hour long voyage.
Seychelles on a Budget
The Seychelles can be a notoriously expensive destination yet easily visited on a budget. We spent 8 days here, maximizing beach time and stretching our wallet.
Fruit Stands. Beaches and roadsides are often dotted with fruit vendors selling freshly harvested tropical fruits. Many offer pressed juices or blended smoothies.
Public Beaches. The Seychelles are world famous for their pristine beaches. Maximize time exploring the free public beaches. Bring your own snacks and drinks to save money.
Self Catering Stays. Self Catering Stays refer to any type of guest house or vacation rental with a kitchen. They’re often the most affordable places to stay with space to cook your own meals.
Take Aways. If eating out, avoid the expensive restaurants and visit the take aways. They’re small roadside kiosks or food trucks offering affordable meals taken to go. They’re extremely popular with locals and budget travelers. Meals typically cost 100-150 rupee.
Fish Markets. Fishing is one of the Seychelles main businesses. Small fish markets are common along the coastal roads with fishermen selling the daily catch and barbecuing your selections for fraction of a restaurant price.
Seychellois Cuisine
Slow Turtle Cider. An alcoholic apple cider local to the Seychelles.
Creole Curry. A mix of spices, tomatoes, onions, garlic, curry leaves, fish and sometimes coconut.
Smoked Fish Salad. Smoked fish served with mangos and papaya.
Grilled Fish. Red snapper, barracuda or parrot fish grilled over coconut husks.
Ladob. Plantain and sweet potatoes boiled with coconut milk, sugar, nutmeg and vanilla. It can be made savory by adding fish.
Breadfruit. Try it cooked over an open flame, fried, mashed or as chips
Satini. A cooked mixture of green papaya and mango cooked with fish and coconut.
Coconut Candy. A halved coconut with its meat sliced into bite size pieces and garnished with sugar and lime. Order it from a beachside fruit stand.
Good to Know
When to Visit. We visited the Seychelles in late August, during the peak of the dry season. Expect a mixture of sun, clouds and rain. Plan your beach days and outdoor activities accordingly.
Language. Creole, French and English are the three most commonly spoken languages across the Seychelles. Locals are more than happy to talk with visitors, provide recommendations and offer directions.
Cash vs Card. Credit card is accepted almost everywhere across the Seychelles. Carry some Seychelles Rupees for time when card machines are down or when buying from small roadside vendors.
Sand Flies. Sand flies are present on many of the beaches, often landing and crawling around on you while lying out. Thankfully they don’t bite but can become quite the annoyance.
Mosquitos. Bring insect repellant. Mosquitos are ever present across the Seychelles, especially in the more jungelous areas and at night.
For Next Time…
The next time we visit the Seychelles, we plan to continue island hopping and visit a few nearby locations we missed on this trip.
Silhouette Island. A large but mostly uninhabited island covered in tropical forest with hiking trails and secluded beaches.
Curieuse Island. An island home to Giant Aldabra Tortoises, Coco de Mer Palms, white sand beaches and sea turtles. It’s reachable from Praslin on many island tours.
St Pierre Island. A tiny uninhabited island off the coast from Praslin with granite rock formations, palm trees and coral reefs. It’s a popular snorkeling spot.
Felicite, Coco Island, Grad Soeur & Petitie Soeur. A grouping of tiny tree covered islands surrounded by underwater marine life and snorkeling areas.
