Caye Caulker, Belize
Caye Caulker, Belize
Caye Caulker, Belize is a small Caribbean island with a tropical atmosphere and laid back way of life. The slow and sleepy vibes are emphasized by the islands motto “Go Slow.” Its sand covered streets, named after marine life, are lined with colorful wooden buildings, many of which are elevated on stilts. Conch shells decorate yards as palm trees sway above and pelicans flock overhead. Reggae beats play from beachfront bars, tours depart for the Belize Barrier Reef and locals sell handmade shell jewelry. The island is touristy but not overly developed allowing it to retain its character.
The Belize Barrier Reef
The Belize Barrier Reef is the second largest coral reef in the world, stretching hundreds of miles along the Caribbean shores of Belize. The reef’s multi-hued blue waters are home to vast coral formations, low lying atolls, mangrove islands and tidal sand bars. The reef is teeming with all manner of marine life, making it a popular spot for snorkelers like us as well as divers, fishers and sailors. We were able to experience the reef from above and below, flying over parts of its expanse to The Blue Hole and snorkeling in the Hol Chan Marine Reserve.
Seven Spot Snorkeling Tour
We booked a snorkel tour stopping at seven points around Caye Caulker and The Great Belize Barrier Reef, including Shark Ray Alley and the Hol Chan Marine Reserve.
The Coral Gardens. A healthy reef home to a variety of colorful coral formations. Corals sway in the gentle currents as schools of tropical of fish swim past.
Hol Chan Marine Reserve. A protected marine reserve with an vast array of biodiversity and sea life. Our guide led us through an underwater “snorkel trail” to spot some of the reserve’s best sights. Between the giant coral formations, he pointed out countless species of marine life including a moray eel, barracudas, parrot fish, angelfish, blue striped grunts, horse eye jacks, sea fans, giant anemones, conches, christmas tree worms, sea urchins, sand dollars and a puffed up pufferfish with the scariest green eyes.
Shark Ray Alley. A grassy sandbar and feeding area with dozens of nurse sharks. We snorkeled and swam alongside them as they circled the boat and came within feet of us. Green sea turtles grazed in the open field of seagrass while small fish swam around pockets of corals.
The Sunken Barge. An underwater wreck now overgrown with lively corals and schools of colorful, striped and tropical reef fish. We snorkeled above the wreck and watched as fish swam in and out of holes in the ship.
On our return to Caye Caulker, we stopped at Manatee Point, Tarpon Cove and Stingray Beach to spot manatees, tarpon, stingrays and seahorses. The full day tour included fresh fruit, lunch, rum punch and snorkel equipment. We booked with Salt Life Eco Tours on Get Your Guide.
The Great Blue Hole Fly Over Tour
The Great Blue Hole is a perfectly round geological formation famed for its deep blue color contrasted by lighter blues of the surrounding shallows. It was created by an underwater sink hole that collapsed and filled with seawater, giving it its color. We flew over it as if in a trance, circling from different altitudes on both sides of the airplane. In route, we flew over cayes, small islands, atolls, corals reefs and drop offs that created an intense spectrum of blue hues ranging from aquamarine to bright blue, turquoise, deep blue and navy. Looking out the windows, we were mesmerized by the blue beauty of the Caribbean and Belize Barrier Reef. The flight lasted about an hour. Though expensive, it is a sight worth seeing! We booked directly with Maya Island Air.
Things to Do
Sunset Tiki Bar Cruise. In love with all things tiki, we joined several others aboard the “Pontiki,” a pontoon boat converted into a floating tiki bar with a palm thatched roof and side skirt, bamboo railing, kitschy tiki decor, one of a kind tiki mugs and bamboo straws. Most importantly, the cruise included the booziest rum punch made with Belizean rums. For nearly two hours, our captain boated us around the Caye, refilling our tiki mugs and bringing us to the perfect spot for a Caribbean sunset. We booked with Nina’s Pontiki Cruises on Viator.
Visit The Split. The Split is a narrow channel separating the north and south sides of Caye Caulker. It is the informal center of the island and common departure point for tours. Visit The Lazy Lizard, a beach club with an outdoor restaurant, expansive bar and music venue. Their pier is lined with colorful wooden lounges, tables shaded by thatched umbrellas and a ladder with a diving platform.
We spent an afternoon lounging along the pier with tropical cocktails and lunch. Try the frozen coconut mojito and spicy margarita. After working on our tan, we swam around and snorkeled in the aquamarine waters, spotting stingrays, conch and starfish. At night, we returned for their Full Moon Party where we danced in the sand and howled at the full moon as live DJs spun House and Reggae music.
Feed or High Five a Tarpon. Tarpon are giant ”bone fish” that grow up to several feet in length. On the west side of the caye is a small boardwalk where they swim around waiting to be fed. For $5 BZD, buy some bait, hold it above the water and wait for one of the giant fish to quickly jump out and snatch it from your hand. Alternatively, hold your hand just above the water and wait for one of the tarpon to “high five” your hand. It’s a common stop on snorkel tours.
Spot Stingrays & Seahorses at Stingray Beach. A small beach at the Iguana Reef Inn with palm shaded lounges, a thatched bar and habitat for stingrays and seahorses. We stopped in for rum cocktails and took our pick of the many lounges set up along shore before relaxing in the overwater swings and hammocks. While here, we spotted yellow and brown seahorses slinking alongside the pier and giant stingrays fluttering through the shallows near shore. It’s a common stop on most snorkel tours.
Belizean Cuisine
Belizean cuisine on Caye Caulker is influenced Caribbean and West Indies flavors. Restaurants barbecue the day’s fresh catch on street side grills, beach shacks serve savory fried foods, dishes are flavored with jerk seasonings, coconut, curry and spicy hot sauces. Dishes to try are Jerk and coconut shrimp, whole fried and grilled red snapper, grilled Caribbean lobster, conch fritters, conch and shrimp ceviche, coconut rice and curried seafood.
Fry Jacks. Deep-fried pieces of dough typically stuffed with refried beans served at breakfast.
Pupusas. A corn masa arepa stuffed with various fillings like black bean and cheese, topped with a pickled cabbage and carrot slaw.
Johnny Cakes. Sweet coconut and vanilla biscuits.
Marie Sharps. The national hot sauce made with habanero and carrot. It’s available everywhere.
Places to Eat & Drink
For a tiny island, there is no shortage of places to eat and drink! We visited several spots during our week on the Caye for local cuisine and island bites.
Ice n’ Beans. A coffee shop and cafe with breakfast sandwiches, fresh baked banana bread, rum balls and mini donuts. We quickly became regulars here during our week on the Caye, sitting at the yellow picnic tables under the palm trees with seaside views of the Caribbean.
Errolyn's House Of Fryjacks. A popular breakfast spot to try Belizean Fryjacks. Order any combination stuffed with refried beans, eggs, bacon, chicken, ham and cheese. Don’t forget to top it with house made green salsa!
Pelican Sunset Bar. The spot to watch the sunset, enjoy rum cocktails and feast on Caribbean seafood!We saw the sun set as leopard rays fluttered through the water, sipped on happy hour rum punches and ordered the island’s best conch fritters, whole fried red snapper and grilled lobster. Arrive an hour before the sunset to claim a table or sit along the dock with your feet dangling in the water.
Big Titty Rum Bar. A rum bar with a variety of house made and infused rums. With friends, we ordered a spread of daiquiris from classic, habanero, tamarind and grapefruit coconut. We came back near nightly for a final drink or shot of rum.
Las Palapas. A higher end restaurant with surf and turf dishes and a full wine menu. It has a beachy and romantic vibe with a sand floor, wooden furniture and warmly lit chandeliers all under a thatched roof. We ordered the curry seafood and snapper filet. We came here for our friend’s engagement dinner and were not disappointed by quality of the food nor the service.
Reina's. We were lured in on our first night in town by a street side barbecue with fresh lobsters, red snapper and shrimp sizzling on its grates. We sat on rickety wooden furniture inside the beach style shack with sand below our feet while sipping on a Belikin as our food grilled. The restaurant is first come first serve but is worth the wait. Arrive just after opening to get first pick of the day’s fresh catch.
Roy’s Blue Water Grill. One of the many seafood bar and grills on the Caye. We came here for dinner in hopes of tasting their well reviewed lion fish. Though they were sold out, we enjoyed fried cod fritters, snapper filets and coconut curry veggies.
Hebbie Jeebies. A street side bar with a menu of tropical rum cocktails like the rum runner, painkiller, mojito, piña colada or island favorite, Lizard Juice, made with Caribbean rum, pine apple juice and neon green Curaçao. Cocktails are served frozen or on the rocks. For an extra cost, they can be served in a coconut or pineapple!
Nicco’s Ice Cream. An Ice cream parlor with Belizean flavors like coconut, chocolate, tequila rose and sugar corn. The layer of which, literally tasted like sweet corn.
Belize Chocolate Company. A chocolate shop with Belizean chocolates including artisan truffles, brownies, cookies, chocolate bars, hot chocolate and cocoa nib tea.
Caye Caulker Bakery. A bakery famed across the Caye for their cinnamon rolls. We stopped in on our last day for two of the spiraled and glazed cinnamon pastries.
Belizean Rums & Beers
Belizean rums and beers are popular across the country and often very affordable compared to anything imported. The most popular Belizean rum is Caribbean Rum. It’s available in clear, amber and coconut flavored varieties, all perfect for mixing in cocktails. The two most popular Belizean beers are Belikin and Land Shark.
Belikin. Belize’s national beer, baring the country’s most famed Mayan ruin, Caracol, embossed on its bottle. Its flavor is light but very bready.
Land Shark. A very easy drinking light beer with a slightly citric flavor.
Caribbean Fusion Brewing Company. The islands only brewery with brews influenced by the flavors of the island. We visited their second floor taproom and ordered a flight:
Tropical Seltzer. The house spiked seltzer made in a variety of tropical flavors like lime, fruit punch and pineapple.
Pale Ale. A classic beer with a rye forward flavor.
Belgian Ale 1. An ale with a slightly sour flavor close in flavor to a hefeweizen.
Belgian Ale 2. An ale with a darker color and molasses flavor.
IPA. An IPA with a very lightly hopped flavor and sweet finish.
Stout. A coconut flavored stout made with coconut water.
Where to Stay
Rik's Getaway Cabin. We stayed at the most perfectly appointed tiny house on the south side of Caye Caulker in a very local area of the island. Perched on stilts, the tiny house included a full kitchen, queen sized bed, spacious bathroom with washer & dryer, board games, a tv and an outdoor deck with a ledge for dining. Book on Airbnb.
The Treetops Hotel. A boutique hotel with spacious apartment style rooms equipped with full kitchens. The property has its own private beach, a rooftop patio, outdoor pool and free bike rentals. We visited our friends staying here to cook together, lounge on the beach and sip on rooftop cocktails.
Getting Here
The only ways to reach Caye Caulker is by ferry or airplane. Ferries and flights operate between Caye Caulker, San Pedro, Belize City and Chetumal, Mexico.
San Pedro Belize Express. Ferries depart daily a frequent times between 6am and 5pm. We booked tickets online arriving in Caye Caulker from Chetumal, Mexico with a stop in San Pedro for customs. We departed from Caye Caulker, arriving in Belize City where the ferry operator shuttled us to the international airport.
Pro Tip. Don’t worry about missing your scheduled ferry time. As long as tickets remain unused, they’re valid for up to three months at any time slot.
Maya Island Air & Tropic Air. The two main airlines with a fleet of puddle jumpers operating flights between Belize City, Caye Caulker, San Pedro and The Blue Hole. Flights are often fast and scenic but expensive.
Getting Around
There are very few cars on the island. Golf carts and bikes are the main form of transportation on the island, however it’s also easily walkable.
On Foot. It takes 30 minutes on foot to travel between the caye’s furthest points, the airport and “The Split.” Wear flip flops or sandals to walk through large puddles and pools of water after rain.
By Bike. Bikes are an easy way to get around the island. Most hotels offer free bike though there are some rentals in town for around $10 USD per day.
By Taxi (Golf Cart). It takes 10 minutes by golf cart to travel between the island’s furthest points, the airport and “The Split.” Taxis only cost a few USD and are commonly available.
Good to Know
Currency. The Belizean Dollar and US Dollar are used interchangeably across the island. At the time, the exchange rate was 1 USD to 2 BLZ, making conversions and transactions easy.
Cash vs Card. About half of the island is cash only, especially at smaller restaurants, bars and cafes.
Language. English is the most commonly spoken language. Spanish and Creole are frequently spoken between locals.
Drinking Water. Tap water is not safe for consumption due to risk of contamination. Only drink filtered or bottled water.
Happy Hours. Most bars have happy house from 4-7pm, perfect timing after retuning from a tour.
Dinner Hours. Most restaurants and kitchens close between 9-10pm nightly.
Toilets. Like most places in Central American, the plumbing is not the greatest. Used toilet paper is not flushed but put in a bin next to the toilet.
Reef Safe Sunblock. Only use reef safe sunblock on the island or in the water to avoid harming the corals and marine life.
Safety. Caye Caulker is extremely safe! The locals are some of the friendliest and most down to earth people we have ever met.
Drugs. Locals commonly offer and sell drugs on the streets. They’re not pushy about it. Simply tell them no thank you if not interested.
Elsewhere in Belize
Explore our guide on the Mayan Jungle for travel ideas along the country’s interior and western boarder.
For Next Time…
This was our second trip to Belsize and we’re already dreaming of returning to this beautiful country to experience more it its culture, nature and history! When we return, we plan to visit some of the coastal cities and Mayan ruins.
Hopkins. A seaside village home to the Garifuna, the indigenous and Afro-Caribbean people of Belize with a rich culture.
Placencia Peninsula. A fishing village and beach town with white sand beaches.
Altun Ha. A Mayan acropolis with pyramids, temples, ball courts and platforms on the mainland north of Belize City.
Lamanai. the ruins of a Mayan temple only accessible by boating deep into the jungle.
