East Java, Indonesia

East Java, Indonesia

Situated along the Pacific Ring of Fire, East Java is the land of dramatic landscapes. Fuming volcanos, picturesque waterfalls, verdant jungles and grassy savannas cover the region. East Java’s fertile landscape is a hub for agriculture. Farmers cultivate lush rice terraces while trucks carry loads of harvested sugarcane, cassava, bananas and coconuts. Cities and villages offer a glimpse into Indonesian culture. Chaotic scenes of moto bikes speed down two lane streets. The Islamic call to prayer echos from domed mosques. Warungs serve affordable local bites while cafes brew Javanese coffee. 

Tumpak Sewu Waterfall

Tumpak Sewu is a massive waterfall formed by dozens of streams spilling over a crescent shaped canyon into the river below. The lush canyon is covered in moss, ferns, bamboo and palm trees. Semeru Mountain rises through the clouds in the background as mist blows in all directions. It’s Java’s largest waterfall and a true natural marvel. 

The waterfall is viewable from an observation deck at the canyon rim and from the riverbed at its base. A trail leads to the base following a series of makeshift staircases and metal ladders. They cross over flowing streams, small waterfalls and through the river. From the base, the canyon and waterfall surrounded us like a panorama as cooling mist drenched us. 

Goa Tetes Cave.  A cave beyond a waterfall with dripping rock formations and a smaller waterfall within. It’s reachable by following a trail down the canyon from Tumpak Sewu Waterfall. The trail is scenic, with several small waterfalls pouring over the verdant canyon’s walls. 

Wisata View Kapas Biru.  A panoramic viewpoint from the top of a small waterfall, looking across a river canyon towards another waterfall. The opposite waterfall streams from a crevice in the crescent shaped cliff, surrounded by lush jungle on all sides. 

Good to Know. Be prepared to get soaking wet! Come with a change of clothes for after the hike. Bring or rent water shoes for 20K Rp. 

Getting Here.  The waterfall is located 2 hours from Malang. We booked a driver and guide with Smartway Indonesia Tours on Viator to bring us here and back.

Ijen Volcano 

Ijen Volcano is famed for its electric blue flames, turquoise lagoon and sulphur mines. Sunrise hikes starting in the middle of the night lead to its active crater and picturesque caldera. 

Ijen Volcano Hike.  The hike up the volcano’s slopes and into its crater begins at 2am when the park’s gates open. The wide trail is moderately steep but levels out just before the descent into the crater. The narrow trail into the crater meanders down rocky steps and loose gravel. The smell of sulphuric gases becomes intense without a gas mask. The trail can take 1-2 hours depending on speed and position amongst other hikers. 

Ijen Blue Flames.  At the base of the crater between plumes of sulphuric gas are the electric blue flames. A small viewing area offers close up access to them. The flames seem to flow and dance down the rocky hill, sometimes jumping along the ground. Their characteristic blue color is a result of the hot burning sulphuric gases released by the volcano. 

Pro Tip.  Avoid using a flash light around the blue flames. It’s better to experience their glow without excess light. Politely ask others to do the same. 

Ijen Crater Lake.  The crater rim offers picturesque views of turquoise colored lake and sunrise. The viewpoint is reachable after a 30 to 45 minute hike up from the blue flames. As daylight breaks, the bright colored lagoon at the bottom of the crater comes into view. Gases fume from the volcanic vents as clouds roll over the lush hillside. The sun light illuminates nearby volcanos and colors the sky in a combination of pastel tones. Alternatively, the crater lake is viewable from the sulphur mines near the blue flames. This is a good spot to stay if unable to reach the rim for sunrise in time.

Sulphur Mines.  The volcanic vents surrounding the lagoon are hand mined for sulphur. Local miners live on the volcano under hazardous conditions to harvest the mineral, referred to as “the devil’s gold.” Vibrant yellow deposits are scattered across the ground and collected in baskets lining the trail. We visited on Satu Suro, the Javanese Islamic New Year. It’s one of the few days that miners take to rest. As a result, our guide introduced us to his father, Arifin, an experienced miner and local legend. He showed us the capsule sized space he sleeps in and a brief documentary about his work. Watch on Coconuts TV. 

Hire A Guide.  Though it’s possible to visit on your own, we visited with a guide for the additional safety and ease of coordination. We booked with East Java Paradise Travel on Viator.

Be First.  3,000 people are permitted to enter the volcano daily, often resulting in a bottle neck of hikers along the trail. Furthermore, the area around the blue flames is very small. The best way to enjoy seeing them safely and unobstructed is to wait at the gate early and hike ahead of everyone else.

Medical Check.  Prior to beginning the hike, local officials require all visitors to undergo a brief medical exam, checking blood pressure, blood oxygen levels and temperature. 

Gas Masks.  A proper fitting gas mask is strongly recommended. Rent one or make sure it’s included with your tour. The volcanic fumes are toxic and highly concentrated around the blue flames.  

Proper Gear.  Wear layers for the cooler nighttime temperatures and shoes with good treads. Being a headlamp or flashlight to see. Hiking poles are helpful but not necessary. 

Mount Bromo

Mount Bromo is one of East Java’s most active volcanos! Its ancient crater rim surrounds volcanic cinder cones and a billowing caldera. The island’s tallest volcano, Semeru Mountain, towers in the background erupting with frequent puffs of black ash.

Mount Bromo Sunrise.  A popular time to visit Mount Bromo is for the sunrise. Tours from Malang starts around midnight. It’s followed by a 3 hour drive to the volcano village and a transfer to a 4x4 vintage Toyota Land Cruiser. The final hour leads across the sand sea and up the north crater rim to the lookout points. We sat below “King Kong Hill.”  There are cafes selling coffees, noodles in cups and renting heavy coats. It wasn’t the clearest morning. The sunrise was blocked by clouds and the volcanos were covered in a blanket of fog. Their still visible silhouettes had a mystical view. Mount Bromo constantly billowed out clouds of white smoke while Semeru Mountain erupted with puffs of black ash. 

The Sand Sea.  The Sand Sea is the black sand lava field surrounding the cinder cones within the ancient crater’s walls. Hundreds of colorful Land Cruisers park here while visitors walk or ride pony’s across the landscape to Mt. Bromo’s smoldering crater. Passing Mount Batok, a shrub covered cinder cone, we reached the blackened base of Mount Bromo. Locals sell colorful bouquets of dried flowers, which any people leave as offerings to the volcano. 

Mount Bromo Crater Rim.  A 250 step staircase leads up Mount Bromo’s crater walls to the rim. The rim offers views into the fuming vent of the volcano. Hissing steam and gases roar from within the crater. Black scared rocks and bright yellow sulphur deposits cover its steep walls. Remnants of offerings, mostly flowers and cooked rice were visible along the steep inner slops. 

Getting Here.  We hired a guide with round trip transportation from Malang. It was the easiest way to see the volcanos. Book with Cheap Bromo on Viator. 

Good to Know. Wear layers and warm clothes. The temperature is often cold in the early morning at the high elevation. Remove layers as the day warms up.

Baluran National Park

One of the lesser known natural sights in East Java is the Baluran National Park. It encompasses landscapes like volcanos, savanna, forest, mangroves and beaches, each home a variety of wild animals and endemic species. 

Bekol Savanna.  A vast grassland with bushes and broadleaf trees home to heards of wild animals like buffalo, deer and monkeys. It sits against the towering backdrop of the Baluran and Ijen Volcanos. With binoculars and camera in hand, we spotted wildlife. Large buffalo stood covered in mud as they grazed in the grasslands. Hundreds of deer gathered together. Fawns chased each other, stopping to breast feed from their mothers. Bucks spared while others feed, lifting their heads above the grass to reveal a crown of shrubs stuck in their antlers. 

Evergreen Forest.  A section of the park with vibrant green foliage supported by an underground river. A road leads through its dense canopy in route to the savanna. 

Bama Beach.  A natural beach with a coral sand shore, hardened black lava flows, a mangrove forest and tide pools. Troops of wild monkeys scavenger for shell fish during low tide. 

Coastal Fringe.  A lush forested zone between the savanna and coast. Its trees are home to hornbill toucans, colorful peacocks and monkeys. We watched a family of Javan Lutung (ebony monkeys), including a mother with her orange haired infant, jump from tree to tree. 

Book a Safari.  One of the best ways to visit is on Safari Tour. We booked  half day safari with Epic Escapes Indonesia on Get Your Guide.

Indonesian Cuisine 

Nasi Goreng.  Vegetable fried rice, an Indonesian staple commonly served on menus around the country. It’s a popular breakfast dish.

Mi Goreng.  The same as nasi goreng, except made with noodles instead of rice. 

Gado Gado.  Lightly steamed or boiling vegetables served with a spicy peanut sauce. 

Batagor.  Fried banana, tempe or tofu stuffed with glass noodles and veggies. It’s a very common street food dish in East Java and eaten for breakfast or a mid day snack. 

Tempeh.  Fermented and spouted soybeans formed into a protein patty or block. A common preparation is Tempeh Lada Hitam, tempeh cooked in a black pepper sauce.

Sayur Lodeh.  A spiced coconut stew cooked with tempeh, eggplant, tomatoes and green beans. 

Bintang.  Indonesia’s national beer. It’s a light beer perfect for the perpetually hot afternoons and evenings.

Sambal.  Indonesians love spicy food. The source of the heat is often sambal, a minced mixture of Thai chili peppers, shallots and garlic.

Where to Stay

We hopped around East Java every couple of days staying in Malang, Banyuwangi and Surabaya. 

Kosasih 1919.  A small bed and breakfast in central Banyuwangi with spacious rooms, lush gardens and a communal kitchen. The hosts and their traditional breakfasts were the highlights! Reserve on Booking.

Malang City Point Apartments.  A simple and cozy two bedroom apartment located in the Malang City Point Mall. The mall was great for grocery shopping, local bites and cafes. Book on Airbnb. 

Cordia Hotel Surabaya Airport.  During our travel days into and out of Surabaya, we stayed the night at a  airport hotel. It’s located in terminal 1 with retro rooms and views of the runway. The hotel has its own terrace coffee bar and includes breakfast. Reserve on Booking.

Getting Around 

Grab or Gojek.  The two competing taxi apps are Grab and Gojek. Both offer affordable rides getting around within and between cities. Inner city rides range from $1 to $10. Longer distances, such as Surabaya to Malang cost around $40 and take 1 hour 30 minutes. 

KAI Trains.  East Java has an efficient and affordable train system with routes leading to destinations across the island. We booked tickets traveling between Malang, Banyuwangi and Surabaya. Tickets cost less than $5 each for Economy Class and $22 for Executive Class. Transit time takes between 6-7 hours with multiple trains leaving daily. Tickets can be reserved online with Tiket Com as far as two months in advance.

Location Specifics

When to Visit. Visit during the peak of the dry season, in mid June. The weather was sunny and bright most days with the occasional afternoon storm.

Shoes Off Indoors.  Like many places in Asia, it’s proper to remove shoes before entering home or some shops. 

Islamic Customs.  Indonesia is an Islamic country. The call to prayer is present in most places. Modesty and respect in all forms are the most important customs to follow.

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Indonesian laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Elsewhere in Indonesia 

We’ve visited to Indonesia twice during our travels, exploring different islands across the archipelago. Experience the picturesque landscapes and wildlife of The Komodo Islands. Visit ancient temples and wander through the lush rice terraces of Ubud, Bail. Take in the tropical atmosphere while lounges on the beaches of Coastal Bali. 

For Next Time… 

There is so much to see in East Java and Indonesia! We are dreaming of returning for a third time to this scenic country and have a list of sights left to experience. 

Mt. Bromo.  We plan to spend a few days around Mt. Bromo and its active volcanos. Ideally, we would visit on a crystal clear day to see the landscape in full detail unobscured by fog. 

Multi-Day Volcano Hike.  With dozens of volcanos to choose from. We plan to hike and camp overnight on one of Java’s volcanos. Mt. Semeru, the largest volcano on the island has several routes and campsites to choose from. 

West Bali National Park.  From Banyuwangi, we would love to re-visit Bali and explore the island’s western peninsula and national park home to endemic birds, coral reefs and wild animals. 

Prambanan Temple.  A 9th century Hindu temple in Central Java. It’s the second largest after Angkor Wat. Its intcate structures and towers are carved from black lava rocks.

The Komodo Islands

The Komodo Islands

Komodo is an exotic Indonesian destination mystified by its dragons, picturesque landscapes, underwater marine life and pink sand beaches. The port city of Labuan Bajo is the hub for experiences in the region including live aboard charters to the islands of Komodo National Park. 

Komodo Live Aboard

The best way to experience the Komodo Islands is on a Live Aboard. Boat operators across Labuan Bajo offer multi-night tours visiting the Komodo, its islands, beaches and reefs. We booked a 3 day 2 night tour on The Dinara with Amaze Vacations. It included all activities, a private cabin and all meals. 

The Dinara.  Our vessel for the three days touring the Komodo Islands. The beautiful wooden ship has comfortable private cabins and communal decks. We stayed in the Krakatau Room, one of the few rooms with windows on two sides and a private balcony! It was both adventurous and glamorous. 

Pro Tip.  Book your Live Aboard when you arrive! This gives you the best chance to coordinate around the weather. As planners, we booked months ahead of time but had hazy and rainy weather the dates of our tour.

Komodo National Park 

Komodo National Park is home to the Komodo Dragons! The park consists of several protected islands with dramatic landscapes, picturesque beaches and thriving marine life.

Komodo Island.  The largest island in Komodo National Park with the largest population of Komodo Dragons. We visited Komodo Village and were lead by local guides through the hillside. We didn’t have to walk too far before spotting three Komodo Dragons. One was shading under a tree, a giant one was resting along a dried up river and a third was sleeping in a nest made between tree roots. 

Our Recommendation.  Though we got to see Komodo Dragons, we don’t recommend booking a tour that visits the Komodo Village. It’s very touristy and the place is unfortunately littered with plastic and trash. Instead, go to the Komodo National Park Office and hike from there.  

Padar Island Sunrise.  A rugged island with hiking trails, crescent shaped coves and pink sand beaches. After spending a night on the ship, we woke up early to hike to the summit for sunrise. The trail leads along the island’s crest to different panoramic viewpoints. We sat near the top and watched the sunrise illuminate the island as it rose.

Padar Island Pink Beach.  A sandy beach made up of finely eroded grains of red and white corals. The mixture gives the beach a pinkish hue. The turquoise colored water offers stunning contrast to pink sand. The color is most vibrant right after a wave washes on shore. There are several pink sand beaches around the Komodo Islands.

Pulau Karangan.  A vibrant and shallow water coral reef teeming with marine life. It feels like being inside of an aquarium as thousands of colorful and tropical fish swim in all directions. Abstract looking corals cover the ocean floor as currents flow along a steep drop off. It was some of the best snorkeling we’ve ever done, however signs of stress and bleaching were evident in several parts of the reef. 

Komodo Manta Ray Point.  A snorkeling point where manta rays are frequently said to visit. We didn’t spot any but stuck around to snorkel and free dive in the deep blue waters. Down below, layers of large coral formations grow on top on each other as reef fish live within. 

Manjarite Reef.  A coral reef off shore from the Manjarite Beach with a sprawling coral garden and layers of large coral formations. We swam with all types of tropical fish and sea turtles!

Kelor Island.  A small island with a hiking trail leading to its summit with views of the surrounding islands, anchored boats and blue waters below. We snorkeled near the beach, spotting black tipped reef sharks and puffer fish.  

Taka Makasar.  A sandbar island surrounded by swimmable turquoise waters. We snorkeled and spotted small black tipped reef sharks. Further offshore we saw a pod of dolphins swimming between the anchored wooden ships.

Bats of Pulau Kalong.  Shortly after sunset, thousands of giant bats emerge from the forest on Kalong Island and take flight over the bay. Their dark silhouettes flutter overhead, contrasting the warm colors of the early evening sky. It was a serene and beautiful sight to watch from the top of our live aboard boat.

Labuan Bajo

Labuan Bajo is the main city on the island of Flores and entry point to Komodo National Park. The town surrounded by lush hills with hiking trails, beaches and lookout points. Its harbor is dotted with fishing boats and traditional wooden ships for live aboard tours. It’s worth spending a couple of days here either before or after booking a live aboard. 

Soekarno Hatta Street.  A narrow palm lined street passing through the center of Labuan Bajo with restaurants, cafes, dive shops, tour offices and massage spas. 

Waterfront Promenade.  The city’s waterfront promenade overlooks the harbor and its many anchored ships. It’s a beautiful walk for the sunset and to enjoy local festivities after dark. 

Pavillon Off Shore.  A waterfront boardwalk ending at an overwater pavilion with views of the harbor and dozens of anchored ships. It’s a calm spot for enjoying the tranquil views and scenery.

Wills Hills.  A lookout point at the tip of Labuan Bajo with views of the islands and ocean. We spotted wild monkeys in the trees and a school of shark circling in the water below. Many people come here for the sunset.

Sylvia Beach.  A crescent shaped tan sand beach overlooking the bay. The calm blue waters are perfect for swimming & sunbathing. The beach is located at the Sylvia Resort Komodo. The beach is free to enter for non-guests that purchase anything from the restaurant or bar. 

Sylvia Hill.  A hill above Sylvia Beach with views of the bay, island and sunset. It’s a popular local spot reachable after a 10 minutes hike from a roadside parking lot.

Puncak Waringin.  An observation deck at one of the tallest points in town. It has sweeping views of the harbor, islands and golden sunset. Tickets costs 50K Rupiah. For a free view with similar perspectives, visit the Photo Spot Labuan Bajo. It’s only a minute walk down the street.

Cunca Walung Waterfall.  A jungelous river canyon with a waterfall at its end. The canyon is reachable after walking 15 minutes down a forested nature trail and across a planked suspension bridge. At the canyon, we jumped from a rock cliff into the river and swam upstream to the base of the waterfall. Mist sprayed all around us and between the smoothed and curved canyon walls. Following the current back downstream we swam in the refreshing river and explored the eroded rock pools. 

Good to Know.  The entry fee costs 100K Rupiah per person and includes a guide. 

Rangko Cave.  A coastal cave with a flooded and swimmable chamber. During the mid-afternoon, from roughly 2-3:30pm, sunlight streams inside, illuminating its interior and aquamarine colored water. We swam around, viewing the stalactites and watching the birds fly from their nests. There is a small beach before the trail leading to the cave with a snack vendor and restrooms. The cave is only reachable by boat. 

Getting Here.  We hired our airport taxi driver for the day to bring us to the Cunca Walung Waterfall, Rangko Cave and Sylvia Hill Sunset Point. He charged 1.5 million Rupiah (about $90 USD at the time) for full transportation including the boat.

Labuan Bajo Fish Market.  An nightly seafood market with dozens of street side kitchens barbecuing the day’s catch. Colorful arrangements of fresh fish like grouper, snapper, mahi mahi and parrot fish are displayed on icy tables. Live mantis shrimp, lobsters, crabs, oysters and clams sit in tubs of water and bottles. Smoke from the bbq grills wafts through the air as locals and travelers feast under awnings on the promenade. Shop around for the best looking seafood and prices to match. We ordered a grilled grouper, mantis shrimp and coconut from Kodak Para Ikatte.

Places to Eat & Drink

Naga Bar.  An overwater bar at the end of a snaking boardwalk. The menu features tiki style drinks and signature cocktails inspired by the folklore and goddesses of Flores. It’s located at the AYANA Resort and open to non-guests. 

Waroeng Labuan Bajo.  A second floor restaurant overlooking the harbor of Labuan Bajo. They serve traditional Indonesian dishes including vegetarian and halal options. We came here for our first lunch, ordering with the national beer, Bintang.

Happy Banana.  A very popular cafe and restaurant with a wide ranging menu including coffees, smoothie bowls, vegetarian dishes, sushi and poke.

Komodough.  A tiny cafe with a very clever name. They sell strong coffees and a variety of pastries. Try the pandan croissant and pandan coconut roll for local flavors. 

Copper Bonnet.  A restaurant with a cocktail menu themed after Magellan’s voyage around the world. The menu features about two dozen signature cocktails, each with local and regional ingredients tied to a specific point in the voyage. Try the Burn The Ship and Coconut Palm. 

Indonesian Cuisine

Nasi Goreng.  Vegetable fried rice, an Indonesian staple commonly served on menus around the country. It’s a popular breakfast dish.

Mi Goreng.  The same as nasi goreng, except made with noodles instead of rice. 

Gado Gado.  Lightly steamed or boiling vegetables served with a spicy peanut sauce. 

Batagor.  Fried banana, tempe or tofu stuffed with glass noodles and veggies. It’s a very common street food dish in East Java and eaten for breakfast or a mid day snack. 

Tempeh.  Fermented and spouted soybeans formed into a protein patty or block. A common preparation is Tempeh Lada Hitam, tempeh cooked in a black pepper sauce.

Sayur Lodeh.  A spiced coconut stew cooked with tempeh, eggplant, tomatoes and green beans. 

Bintang.  Indonesia’s national beer. It’s a light beer perfect for the perpetually hot afternoons and evenings.

Sambal.  Indonesians love spicy food. The source of the heat is often sambal, a minced mixture of Thai chili peppers, shallots and garlic.

Location Specifics

When to Visit. Visit during the peak of the dry season, in mid June. The weather was sunny and bright most days with the occasional afternoon storm.

Shoes Off Indoors.  Like many places in Asia, it’s proper to remove shoes before entering home or some shops. 

Plastic Pollution.  Unfortunately plastic pollutes many of the harbors, beaches and lookout points around Komodo. 

Islamic Customs.  Indonesia is an Islamic country. The call to prayer is present in most places. Modesty and respect in all forms are the most important customs to follow.

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Indonesian laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Getting Around 

On Foot.  The town of Labuan Bajo small and easily walkable. 

By Taxi.  Taxis and motos are plentiful around town. Most locals will offer a ride anywhere around town, to and from the airport or to the resorts outside of town for 100K Rupiah. 

Elsewhere in Indonesia 

We’ve visited to Indonesia twice during our travels, exploring different islands across the archipelago. Chase waterfalls and hike into the craters of active volcanos in East Java. Visit ancient temples and wander through the lush rice terraces of Ubud, Bail. Take in the tropical atmosphere while lounges on the beaches of Coastal Bali. 

For Next Time…

Seeing the pink sand beaches, stunning coral reefs and Komodo dragons themselves left us in a sense of awe and wanting to see more. Next time we return, we have a few ideas of what we would see and do. 

Rinca.  A lesser visited island regarded by those who have as being one of the best kept secrets of the Komodo Islands. It has Komodo Dragons, scenic landscapes, coral reefs and sunset views. 

Spiderweb Rice Terraces.  An indigenous method of growing rice on Flores with tiered rice terraces shaped like a spider web. The best time of year to visit is during the rainy season when they’re in full sprout. 

Scuba Diving.  We saw over a dozen dive shops with scuba tours in Labuan Bajo. Several of which offer introductory dives in the Komodo Islands for people without licenses. 

Cebu, Philippines

Cebu, Philippines 

Cebu is an island destination in the Philippines known for its thrilling outdoor adventures, underwater excursions and memorable wildlife encounters. The island is a hub in the region to visit neighboring islands and destinations across the country.

An Island of Adventures 

The underwater world is teeming with an incredible array of life. Outrigger boats ferried us to coral reefs and ocean drop offs where we snorkeled and free dived with giant whale sharks, tens of thousands of sardines and sea turtles. On land, we zip-lined above tropical forests, cannoneered down a turquoise river, swam through waterfalls, jumped from cliffs, boated up jungleous rivers, overlooked the “chocolate hills” and spotted wild tarsiers. 

Kawasan Falls & Canyoning 

Kawasan Falls is a three tiered cascading waterfall flowing from a turquoise colored mountain river. The river flows down a canyon popular for guided canyoneering adventures with hiking, swimming, cliff jumping, natural waterslides and trapeze style swings.

Jungle Zip Line.  The day starts with a 3 hour car ride from Cebu and a further 15 minutes up the mountain on motor bike to reach the jungle zip line. Strapped into body harnesses, we zip-lined 1km side by side, like superheroes, across a lush valley to reach the trail head and river.

Kawasan River Canyon.  We plunged feet first into the river and swam briefly down stream with the flow of the current. The bright turquoise hued water seemed to glow all around us. Lead by our guides, we traversed the river canyon and several natural obstacles. We jumped off 7 meter tall cliffs into deep river pools, slid down a natural waterslide and swam through narrow channels & small caves.

Kawasan Falls.  We experienced the three tiers of Kawasan Falls from the top down. The uppermost tier spills down rapids, through a narrow cliff and over a 15 meter tall drop. The second tier pours over a wide cliff into a  turquoise river pool. We swam behind the waterfall and dove through it back into the lagoon. Downstream a rope swing sways from a cliff into a separate pool near the top of the final tier. The last tier is a forked waterfall that flows into a large turquoise river pool. We swam in its vibrant water while admiring the natural beauty of the waterfall. Book with Cebu Tours on Viator. 

Swimming with Whale Sharks

One of the absolute highlights of our time in the Philippines was swimming with the whale sharks! The giant creatures feed just off the coast from the town of Oslob. They’re lured with krill early each morning as snorkelers observe from outrigger canoes and beneath the surface. We snorkeled along side these magical giants, watching as they gracefully swam by. They sucked in krill through their large mouths, slowing waving their fins and tails as they brushed past. Their unique striped and spotted pattern was mesmerizing to see up close. Their impressive size reached lengths of 10 meters, far longer than our boat. We spent about 30 minutes in the water with them before saying goodbye. 

Tumalog Waterfall.  A dramatic waterfall that cascades down a 100 meter tall cliff surrounded by lush tropical forest. The cliff is a natural green wall, covered in ferns, moss and plants. Water spills over protruding rocks and nodules before reaching the natural pool at its base. We stood beneath it, letting the cool and refreshing water shower us. It’s an easy sight to see after swimming with the whale sharks. Book with Cebu Tours on Viator. 

The Sardine Run

The Sardine Run is an incredible spectacle just off shore from the town of Moalboal. Beneath the surface, swirling masses of shimmering sardines swim in vast schools numbering in the tens to hundreds of thousands. We snorkeled and free dived around them, breaking through walls of fish and watching them part ways in perfect unison. It was a surreal experience to experience a sardine run and swim with so many fish. 

Pescador Island.  A small and unassuming island in the middle of the Tanon Strait. Surrounding it is a thriving coral reef and a 100 meter drop off descending into the deep blue abyss. Strange looking coral formations grow from the reef and its cliffside. They’re home to tropical fish, vibrant blue sea stars, pulsing jellyfish and unseen marine life. We snorkeled and free dived but can only imagine what it’s like to see with scuba gear.

Good to Know. We navigated around pods of golf ball sized jellyfish with long stringy tentacles. Their stings were mild but uncomfortable. We’d recommend wearing a rash guard or wetsuit to protect your skin. On the bright side, the jellyfish attracted a hungry sea turtle eager to feast on them. Motors on outrigger canoes and tour boats are extremely loud. Bring headphones or ear plugs to avoid hearing loss. Book with Cebu Tours on Viator. 

Bohol Island 

A large tropical island across the Cebu Strait with picturesque landscapes, reserves with endemic primates and Spanish colonial era sights. We explored the island on a day trip from Cebu. 

Chocolate Hills.  A landscape covered in over 1,000 domed and conical shaped hills. We visited the Chocolate Hills Viewing Deck, a lookout on top of one of the hills. From the view point we overlooked hundreds of them dotting the countryside. At the time, the hills were covered in green grass and called the name, “Avocado Hills” by our guide. During the peak of the dry season, the grass dries giving them their name, Chocolate Hills. 

Tarsier Conservation Area.  A conservation area home to the second smallest type of primate, the tarsier. The cute animals are no larger than a closed fist. They’re recognizable large buggy eyes and tiny bodies. They’re nocturnal but occasionally open their wide eyes and stare out. We spotted them clinging onto thin trees trunks under canopies of leaves.

Pro Tip.  Despite their size, they’re easy to spot. Skip the first few where people are gathering and follow the trail to spot the ones further in. 

Loboc River.  A green hued river flanked by verdant mountains and lush tropical forest. Palm trees lean over its banks as children swing from ropes into the water. Cold springs and small waterfalls flow into the river at its source. We cruised upstream on a floating restaurant serving classic Filipino dishes while enjoying the picturesque views and musical performances. A barge with locals danced the Tinikling, a traditional folk dance. Participants hop between bamboo poles as they’re smacked together following the rhythm of the music. We were invited up to join in after feasting on a Filipino lunch. 

Spanish Colonial Sights.  Stop at the Bacalyon Church, the oldest Spanish colonial church on the island and the Blood Compact Monument, the sight where the Spanish Conquistadors made a blood pact with the local tribe.

Getting Here.  We took a round trip ferry from the Cebu City to the Tagbilaran in Bohol with Ocean JetFast Ferries. It takes 2 hours to make the crossing with boats operating from early morning to after sunset. Book with Explore Cebu Tours & Travel on Viator.

Places to Eat & Drink 

Two restaurants we dined at in Cebu City gave us a flavor for home style local cuisine and elevated Asian flavors. 

Pig & Palm.  A higher end restaurant with a tapas style menu serving contemporary Asian cuisine. We ordered a spread of artfully arranged dishes including nori rice crackers, squid ink croquettes, miso glazed octopus, chargrilled carrots, steamed snapper and trio of banana desserts. It was an impressive feast as tasty as it was pretty.

Marjo’s Pochero.  A local restaurant serving traditional Filipino dishes. Try the smoked bangus, crab relleno, vegetable chop suey and garlic rice.

Filipino Cuisine 

Having spent three weeks island hopping across the Philippines, we ate and cooked many traditional Filipino dishes. 

Kinilaw.  A Filipino style ceviche made with vinegar washed seafood mixed calamansi lime juice, coconut cream, red onions, hot peppers and ginger. 

Adobo.  A national dish of the Philippines seen on menus across the country. Its base has a seared protein simmered with a sticky soy sauce glaze made with vinegar, brown sugar and pepper. 

Garlic Rice.  Rice cooked with fresh or fried pieces of garlic. It’s served with almost every meal.

Lumpia.  The beloved Filipino style spring roll stuffed with a protein. It’s typically served deep fried and crispy. We made a version using local Bangus fish.

Banana Turon.  A breakfast or dessert style lumpia made with fresh banana filling and sometimes ube jam.

Bangsilog.  A traditional Filipino breakfast pairing with grilled or fried fish, fried eggs and white rice.

Pancit.  A commonly served noodle dish stirfried with carrots and cabbage. 

Champorado.  A chocolaty rice porridge made with cocoa powder and evaporated milk. 

Calamansi Juice.  A Filipino juice made with calamansi limes. It has a citrus flavor similar to a mixture of lime, lemon and orange. 

Taho.  A layered dessert made with silken tofu, tapioca pearls and brown sugar sauce. It’s a common street food dish sold by vendors carrying large steel tins.

Halo Halo.  A Filipino “ice cream sunday” layered with a variety of different toppings including shaved ice, sweetened condensed milk, ice cream, sweet corn, red beans, peanuts, banana, mango, ube, jellies and cereals. 

Ube.  A starchy root vegetable famed for its deep purple color. It’s cooked down into a number of dishes, mostly desserts. We used it to make a sweet jam using a Filipino friend’s family recipe. 

Getting Around 

Grab.  The Southeast Asian ride hailing app is readily available across the city and between the airport. Rides between the airport and city center cost around 600 pesos. 

Where to Stay

Stay in Cebu City, using the location as a hub to explore the island. We stayed in an apartment at Cityscape Grand Tower in Cebu City. The central location madetourpick ups and drop offs easy as well as provided us with options for nearby restaurants. Book on Airbnb. 

Elsewhere in The Philippines

We spent three weeks island hopping around The Philippines, witnessing its incredible nature and wildlife, experiencing adrenaline rushes on outdoor activities and immersing ourselves in Filipino culture and cuisine. Explore the stunning landscapes and underwater wonders of Palawan. Overlook the vast palm groves and ride the surf breaks of Siarago. 

Siargao, Philippines

Siargao, Philippines

Siargao is sleepy palm covered island and the surf capital of the Philippines. It’s local atmosphere, tropical vibes and relaxed way of life exudes paradise. At sea, surfers ride waves on colorful boards, outrigger boats speckle the shoreline and captains ferry visitors to nearby islands. In town, palm thatched and tin roofed buildings enhance the island vibes while tuk tuks and scooters zip around streets. Siargao is home to a mix of locals and foreign expats enjoying life in paradise. Fishermen sell the daily catch at the public market, digital nomads work away at cafes and tourists unwind on vacation. 

Towns on Siargao

General Luna.  Siargao’s main town and hub for tourism. It’s located on the southeast side of the island. Its main road is home to all types of businesses including vibey cafes, Asian restaurants, cocktail bars, ice cream shops, tattoo studios, small produce markets and surf shops.

Del Carmen.  A small town on the northwest side of the island close to the airport. It’s a very local place and often less visited. The town is a jumping off point to visit the Sugba Lagoon, the Del Carmen Mangrove Forest and to try Filipino cuisine at roadside carinderias. 

Things to in Siargao

Go Surfing!  Siargao is the surf capital of the Philippines. One thing that can’t be missed is taking a surf lesson and riding some waves. 

• Cloud 9 Surf Beach.  Cloud 9 is one of the best spots for beginners and advanced surfers to ride consistent waves along a lengthy surf break during high tide. Colorful rows of surfboards are stacked along the beachfront while instructors wait nearby offering lessons. Access to the beach costs 100 pesos. 

• Happy Islanders Surf Club.  A surf school near Cloud 9. Instructors offer private lessons by the hour on fiberglass boards. We booked a two hour lesson, refreshing our knowledge of surfing basics, learning new skills and catching several waves. 

• Good to Know.  The afternoon lineups can get pretty crowded causing occasional collisions. Be cautious when falling off the board. The water is very shallow and rocky. 

Stay for Sunset.  The Cloud 9 Surf Beach & Boardwalk comes to life around sunset. A long wooden pier reaches out over the rocky shallows offering views of the island, warmly lit sky and groups of surfers. 

Pro Tip.Find a snack lady selling cassava chips with chocolate drizzle. 

Jacking Horse Trail.  A palm lined beachfront trail at Cloud 9 with surf rentals, cafes and restaurants. There’s a small ice cream kiosk serving avocado and mango soft serve. Visit Pop Up Bar Siargao after sunset to relax in hammocks and beanbag chairs under twinkle lights and palm trees as a musician performs. 

Shop at the General Luna Community Market.  The town’s main farmers market is a hub for locally sourced produce, meats and especially seafood. Located on the beach, fishermen deliver the day’s catch directly to the market each morning and mid afternoon. Piles of colorful reef fish, large yellowfin tuna and all types of sea creatures are sold by the kilo. Other vendors display stacks of eggs, cleanly plucked chickens, butchered pieces of pork, freshly harvested fruits, all types of vegetables, herbs and roots. Traveling on a budget, we shopped here for groceries needed to make local dishes back at our tropical hut. 

Walk the Del Carmen Mangrove Boardwalk.  The Del Carmen Mangrove Forest is the largest mangrove forest in the Philippines. A lengthy and winding boardwalk leads deep into its lush expanse and flowing waterways. Educational signs are posted along the route explaining the forest’s biodiverse importance and climatic significance. It makes for a peaceful walk in nature when visiting Del Carmen. 

Get a Tattoo.  Dozens of tattoo shops and studios around the island offer plenty of opportunities to get fresh ink. We visited Irie Tattoo for tattoos, getting a sea urchin and fish skeleton. Most studios offer walk ins and are cash only. 

Eat at a Carinderia.  Carinderias areFilipino restaurants with a spread of home cooked dishes served in metal trays or pots. They’re an affordable way to try the local cuisine including noodle and rice dishes, meat and veggie stews, fried chicken, fish and lumpia.

Hire a Human Drone.  A uniquely Filipino style of taking videos. The “human drone” uses a phone to film a group or scene in fast swooping, swirling and dramatic motions mimicking that of an actual drone. Most tour guides throughly enjoy providing the service. 

Island Tours 

The island tours are one of the best ways to see the natural beauty of Siargao and its nearby islands. We booked three tours during our week here at Siargao INT'L Travel & Tours. They have a small tour office General Luna along “Tourism Road.”

Siargao Land Tour 

Land tours offer visitors a chance to witness the vast palm groves, beaches, lagoons, tidal pools and waterways of Siargao in one day. 

Coconut Viewpoint.  A roadside lookout in the center of the island with views of the tropical palm forest spanning across the valley. 

Secret Beach.  A tidal beach on an inlet only visible during low tide. Its shaded coconut grove offers a relaxing place to enjoy the tropical scenery. 

Magpopongko Rock Pools and Flats.  A beach with tidal pools large enough for people to swim. They’re surrounded by shallow pools with marine creatures and plant life.

Maasin River.  A palm lined river with boardwalk and platform for jumping off of. There are street vendors near the bridge overlooking it selling river oysters and offering canoe tours.

Sugba Lagoon.  An island lagoon with emerald green waters surrounded by tree covered hills. At the lagoon’s center is an island with kayak rentals, swimming areas and a diving platform. The voyage into the lagoon passes dense mangroves, lush islands and stilt villages.

Sohoton Island Tour

Sohoton is remote island west of Siargao home to a series of small tropical islands, emerald hued waterways, flooded caves and lagoons with stingless jellyfish. The islands are only accessible via small outrigger canoes and local tour operators. 

Hagukan Cave.  A flooded cave accessible after swimming through a shallow entrance into its main chamber. The ceiling was dripping with stalactites while the water glowed emerald green as sunlight reflected in. 

Magkukuob Cave.  A flooded cave with stalactites and bats hanging from the chamber ceiling. We walked up one of the steep cliffs over stalagmites to an opening in the rock. On the other side was a wooden platform about 4 meters above the water. One by one, we exited the cave, jumping from the platform and swimming back to our outrigger canoe.

Jellyfish Sanctuary.  A secluded and sheltered lagoon home to a rare variety of stingless jellyfish. We jumped from the outrigger canoe into the jellyfish abundant waters. Small golden jellyfish pulsed all around us as we swam. Deep below the surface, large iridescent blue jellyfish pushed through the waters. It was a surreal and disarming experience swimming with these typically threatening creatures. 

Dagatan Sifai Resort.  A restaurant with a long yellow waterslide and diving platform leading into the lagoon. While waiting for lunch, we slid down the slide and splashed down into the water. Together with our tour group, we feasted on a Boodle Fight, a traditional Filipino style communal meal consisting of seafood, chicken, lumpia, fresh fruits, seaweed, noodles and rice all artfully arranged on banana leaves into an edible spread. 

Tri Island Tour 

The Tri Island Tour is most accessible tour from General Luna stopping at three off shore islands and a sand bar. 

Secret Island.  A shallow sand bar and swimming area in the middle of the bay. Outrigger canoes anchor around it and passengers jump off into the aqua colored water. 

Guyam Island.  A tiny palm covered island with beach shacks serving fried foods, fresh coconuts and snacks. There is a small swimming area and beach for relaxing. All around the island are many staged photo spots and drones flying overhead. We nicked named the spot Instagram island. 

Naked Island.  A small sand island in the middle of the bay completely void of any palm trees or foliage. We spotted a few star fish in the rocks around the island.

Daku Island.  A large palm covered island with dozens of picnic areas and restaurants serving Boodle Fights. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Siargao has a wide range of places to eat and drink. The main road in General Luna is lined with places to enjoy a lazy brunch, vegan meal, Filipino dinner or late night cocktail. We visited several spots during our week on the island.

Places in General Luna 

Cosmic Siargao.  A restaurant & cafe specializing in vegan versions of traditionally meat forward Filipino dishes. We ordered a spread of dishes including:

• Kare Kare. A stew made with a savory peanut sauce, eggplant and tofu. 

• Bicol. A spicy coconut strew made with “meat,” string beans, onion and garlic. 

• Satay.  A classic southeast Asian skewer with marinated and barbecued “meat.”

Manu.  An island style cocktail bar nodding to the Filipino origins of tiki drinks and culture. Inside the warmly lit space, bartenders shake and stir classic tiki drinks and cocktails with a house twist. Try the Planters Punch!

Halika Siargao.  A popular ice cream and gelato shop serving classic and local flavors like ube, mango, pandan and cashew. 

Cabuntog Golden Bell Cafe.  A beachy cafe above a cute island boutique. Come here for banana pancakes, smoothie bowls, fresh fruits and coffees.

Karrose Bakeshop.  A traditional Filipino bakery with a glass display case featuring dozens of freshly baked breads, cookies, pastries and cakes. Try the Ube Swiss Roll. 

Last Chance.  An elevated cocktail bar with a moody yet tropical lounge, house cocktails and flavorful small plates. Try the Coconut Old Fashioned for a classic with an island twist, the Nutty Pailhog for a herbal and light rum drink or the Saging Palenque for something smoky and sweet. 

Las Palmas.  A tropical styled hotel restaurant with lush greenery and island decor under a tall palm thatched roof. Their menu features sweet and savory dishes, perfect for a late morning brunch!

El Chapo’s.  A Mexican inspired taqueria with tacos, tostadas and nachos. Ordered the spiked horchata with a shot of local rum!

Cafe Kokomo.  A small cafe along Jacking Horse Trail with lunchtime sandwiches and light bites. 

Al’s Beach & Pizza.  A restaurant at Cloud 9 with breakfast dishes, brick oven pizza, coffees and cocktails.

Places in Del Carmen 

The Mangroves.  A second floor restaurant overlooking the Del Carmen port with a variety of seafood dishes served in generous portions. Order the sizzling and fried shrimps, crab soup and whole grilled Pompano fish. For dessert, Halo Halo.

JB Bakeshop.  A local bakery with a glass display case filled with hundreds of Filipino pastries, cakes, cookies and breads. We ordered multiple bakes for a pastry breakfast.  

Sulima Eatery.  A classic carinderia in Del Carmen with a range of Filipino dishes sold by the plate. Try the lumpia, grilled fish, squash soup. We stopped here on our tour of Sugba Lagoon. 

Filipino Cuisine

Having spent three weeks island hopping across the Philippines, we ate and cooked many traditional Filipino dishes. 

Kinilaw.  A Filipino style ceviche made with vinegar washed seafood mixed calamansi lime juice, coconut cream, red onions, hot peppers and ginger. 

Adobo.  A national dish of the Philippines seen on menus across the country. Its base has a seared protein simmered with a sticky soy sauce glaze made with vinegar, brown sugar and pepper. 

Garlic Rice.  Rice cooked with fresh or fried pieces of garlic. It’s served with almost every meal.

Lumpia.  The beloved Filipino style spring roll stuffed with a protein. It’s typically served deep fried and crispy. We made a version using local Bangus fish.

Banana Turon.  A breakfast or dessert style lumpia made with fresh banana filling and sometimes ube jam.

Bangsilog.  A traditional Filipino breakfast pairing with grilled or fried fish, fried eggs and white rice.

Pancit.  A commonly served noodle dish stirfried with carrots and cabbage. 

Champorado.  A chocolaty rice porridge made with cocoa powder and evaporated milk.

Calamansi Juice.  A Filipino juice made with calamansi limes. It has a citrus flavor similar to a mixture of lime, lemon and orange. 

Taho.  A layered dessert made with silken tofu, tapioca pearls and brown sugar sauce. It’s a common street food dish sold by vendors carrying large steel tins.

Halo Halo.  A Filipino “ice cream sunday” layered with a variety of different toppings including shaved ice, sweetened condensed milk, ice cream, sweet corn, red beans, peanuts, banana, mango, ube, jellies and cereals. 

Ube.  A starchy root vegetable famed for its deep purple color. It’s cooked down into a number of dishes, mostly desserts. We used it to make a sweet jam using a Filipino friend’s family recipe. 

Where to Stay

Tropical Cozy Hut Retreat.  A jungelous cabin surrounded by palm trees and lush tropical foliage built with natural elements like bamboo, wood and palm thatch. The house has multiple outdoor spaces including a kitchen, living room and bathroom. We spent time relaxing outdoors every evening before retiring to the indoor bedroom. The cabin is located less than 10 minutes from town by tuk tuk. Book on Airbnb.

Sing Siargao.  A beautiful boutique hotel with several studio apartments. We visited a friend staying here, cooked breakfast together and dining on the room’s outdoor balcony. Reserve on Booking. 

Kopinos Tourist Inn.  A small hotel in the middle of Del Carmen with standard rooms and a communal kitchen. We stayed here for a night in between flights while island hopping. Reserve on Booking.

Getting Around 

Airport Transfer.  Vans wait at the airport to transfer guests to General Luna. Shared rides cost 300 pesos each. Private rides cost 2,500 pesos for the van. Tuk tuks to Del Carmen cost 400 pesos total.

Tuk Tuks.  The easiest wait to get around General Luna is by tuk tuk. Drivers frequently patrol the main road looking for fares. Rides anywhere in town cost 50 pesos each.

Location Specifics

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption. Only used bottled or filtered water to drink, cook or brush teeth with.

Insect Repellant.  Mosquitos are a real bother across the island. Wear insect repellent to avoid bites.

Sunblock.  Wear sunblock and bring enough of it with you to last the entirety of the trip. It’s extremely expensive to buy on the island. 

Cash.  The island is cash forward with few businesses accepting credit or debit card. Fortunately there are several ATMs throughout General Luna. 

Wreckless Drivers. If renting scooters, beware of wreckless and speeding drivers, especially tour vans. We saw multiple accidents across the island.

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Siargao is very welcoming and accepting of the LGBTQ+ community.

Island Tours.  The island tours can seem a bit shallow. Many of the tours are designed for people to take selfies or drone footage while time at some sights is very limited. 

Elsewhere in The Philippines

We spent three weeks island hopping around The Philippines, witnessing its incredible nature and wildlife, experiencing adrenaline rushes on outdoor activities and immersing ourselves in Filipino culture and cuisine. Explore the stunning landscapes and underwater wonders of Palawan. Swim with whale sharks and canyoneer the turquoise rivers of Cebu.

For Next Time…

We spent most of our week in General Luna on the southeast side of Siargao. When we return, we plan to explore Del Carmen in the west and the small surf towns in the north. Some highlights we missed are: 

Alegria Beach.  A white sand and palm lined beach near the island’s northernmost tip.

The Marvelous Somyot Cave.  A cave system with all types of rock formations and flooded chambers.

Pacifico Beach.  A beginners surfing beach with lessons, rentals and less crowds than Cloud 9. 

Taktak Falls.  A small waterfall with a natural swimming pool at its base.

Palawan, Philippines

Palawan, Philippines

Palawan is a tropical island in the Philippines home to breathtaking scenery and natural wonders. The island is a developing and welcoming destination that holds true to the its authenticity by preserving its culture and protecting its nature. Its shores are lined with white sand beaches, swaying palm trees, vibrant coral reefs and smaller islands. Rainforests and jagged cliffs stretch across the landscape as lagoons and caves lurk within. Captains of outrigger boats take travelers on tours or bring back the day’s fresh catch. Happy locals exchange smiles, strike up friendly conversations, sing nightly karaoke and share in their love of snacks. We spent over a week here between Puerto Princesa and El Nido, exploring the island’s beaches, lagoons, coral reefs and caves. 

Puerto Princesa  

Puerto Princesa is one of the main entry points to Palawan. It’s a traditional Filipino town home to local restaurants, rustic stays and access to other parts of the island, including the world renowned underground river.

Puerto Princesa Underground River 

The Puerto Princesa Underground River is the world’s longest navigable underground river. We toured a section of it by boat on a day trip from Puerto Princesa. 

Getting to the underground river was an adventure of its own. We were shuttled across the island along winding roads to the Sabang Boat Terminal, a pier dotted with colorful outrigger canoes. We boarded one and boated across the bay to reach a small beach. On shore, a trail lead through the forest, past wild monkeys, to the a boat launch and the cave entrance. 

Pro Tip.  Bring or rent ear protection to muffle the dangerously loud boat engines.  

The captain rowed us into the dark mouth of the cave, waiting a few moments for our eyes to adjust. The sounds of squeaking bats, swooshing swallows and continual drips of water echoed around us. The smell of guano was hard to ignore. Upriver are large chambers with various rock formations. Jagged stalactites, rippled surfaces and crystalline flow stones comprised the cave’s walls and ceilings. There is a strong emphasis on silence and not disturbing the cave environment. The capital pointed out key formations while an audio guide narrated. 

We booked our tour with Corazon Travel & Tours. Its included round trip transportation from Puerto Princesa, our tour of the underground river and lunch. 

Sabang X Zipline.  An overwater zip-line from a cliff to a small island 800 meters away. From the harness we overlooked the vibrant blue waters, sandy beach and forested mountains. 

Manlipien Beach.  A sandy beach with views of the zip-line and shallow aquamarine water. There are a couple fresh fruit and juice vendors nearby. 

Sarang Restaurant.  A buffet lunch spot near the Sabang Boat Terminal with Filipino dishes like fried galunggong fish, garlic rice, boiled yam, seaweed, fresh pineapple and ube bread. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Ka Inato Main Branch.  A Filipino restaurant in Puerto Princesa serving local dishes. We dined here for our first meal in the Philippines, ordering a spread of local dishes including: 

• Seafood Kare-Kare.A peanut curry mixed with veggies and seafood. 

• Binusog na Pusit. A whole squid grilled and stuffed with veggies.  

• Afritada.  Sweet tomato sauce with shrimp, vegetables and garlic rice. 

Mang Cary’s Bulalo.  A Filipino restaurant with bamboo walls, wooden tables and tropical plants decorating the dining room. We shared multiples dishes including: 

• Fish Lumpia.  Crunchy rolls stuffed with shredded fish and deep fried. 

• Talong Salad.  A salad made with steamed eggplants, cucumber, red onions and boiled eggs.

• Grilled Tuna. A tuna steak grilled, peppered abd served with sides of mango salsa and garlic rice.

• Flan.A delicate caramel custard that takes influence from the Spanish colonial period.

Where to Stay

We stayed at Casa La Aitor, a small hotel along a dirt road in Puerto Princesa with spacious apartment style rooms, an outdoor pool and an onsite cafe. Reserve on Booking.

El Nido

El Nido is a hub for marine activities, adventure parks and pure relaxation. We spent a lot of our time underwater, underground and beneath palm trees as we visited caves, coral reefs, tropical islands and white sand beaches. 

El Nido Town Center.  The town center is beachy haven with vegan cafes, local bakeries, coffee shops, boutique hostels, seafood restaurants, tour offices and beachwear shops. It’s still a small town with micro markets, barber shops, pharmacies and plenty of local residents. Colorful ribbons span across many of the streets while tricycle taxis drive below. Steep and lush cliffs flank the town while outrigger boats sit anchored in its crescent shaped bay. 

El Nido Tours 

El Nido has a well choreographed circuit of four tours making stops at beaches, caves, coral reefs, sandbars and islands around the El Nido and Bacuit Bays. We boarded outrigger boats over a course of three days for tours A, B and C. 

Good to Know. Each tour lasts about 6 hours, starting between 9-10am and retuning between 3-4pm. A lunch spread with Filipino dishes is served around noon. 

Pro Tip.  Pay for the Eco Tourism Development Fee (ETDF) in advance at the El Nido Municipal Hall. They’re needed for any tour and valid for up to 5 days. Bring extra cash on the tours for snacks, drinks and additional fees to certain sights and for kayak rentals. 

Where to Book. All tours can be booked in person at El Nido Beach in front of Mabuhay Sports Bar. Bring cash for payments and proof of your ETDF. Alternatively, tours can be booked ahead of time with Corazon Travels & Tours. 

Tour A

One of the most popular circuits around El Nido. It visits multiple beaches and lagoons over the course of the day. It’s the perfect way to enjoy beach time, kayaking, snorkeling and swimming. 

Seven Commandos Beach.  A white sand beach with a palm groves and turquoise swimmable waters set against a steep tree covered mountain. There is a beach bar with fruit shakes, cocktails and fresh coconuts. Order the coconut with rum poured inside for a tropical buzz. 

Big Lagoon.  Rented kayaks and paddled into a shallow channel lined by sharp rocky cliffs and shrubs. The channel varied in color from light blue to deep navy. We entered a lagoon and paddled left, kayaking through a very narrow cave. Once outside of it, we paddled further across the lagoon where no one else visited. In a few shallow coves were coral, jellyfish and even a small shark. 

Shimizu Island.  A rugged and lush island in the bay with several small sandy beaches. We stopped along one of the beaches to swim and for lunch. 

Secret Lagoon.  A hidden lagoon only accessible by crawling through a narrow opening in the rock cliff. Beyond is a milky blue lagoon with vertical rock cliffs opening up to the sky beyond. 

South Miniloc.  On the south side of Miniloc island between Secret Lagoon and Payong Payong Beach is a cove teeming with corals and marine life. The corals are all at a shallow depth and easy to snorkel above and between. Fish seemed to acclimate around our presence as we observed them. Electric blue clams, colorful christmas tree corals and rainbow scaled tropical fish were seen across the reef. Several anemones with clown fish swimming around swayed in the currents while spiky urchins hid in crevices below. 

Tour B

An often overlooked tour on the A to D circuit making it more peaceful than the others. It visits beaches, snorkeling spots and caves. It happened to be our favorite tour even with unfavorable weather!

Cathedral Island.  A thriving shallow water coral garden just below the surface. It makes up a sprawling landscape of colorful corals home to many variety of reef fish and marine life. We snorkeling overhead, observing the stunning structures, clusters of sea creatures and strange reef formations. The sight was easily the highlight of the day one of the best living coral reefs we have seen.

Cathedral Cave.  An ocean cave named for its tall vertical columns and rocky ribbons lining its walls. The cave is only observable from outside due to poisonous sea serpents living within.

Entalula Island.  A sandy beach with a palm lined shore and snorkeling area about 100 meters off shore. Below the water are nodules of living corals, anemone with families of clown fish, leafy sea grass and blue star fish.

Snake Island.  An island advertised for its snaking sandbar accessible during low tide. The tide was high when we arrived however we discovered rows with dozens of large starfish covering the ocean bottom. 

Cudugnon Cave & Beach.  A beautiful beach with a sandy palm lined shore, bat cave, underwater garden and small restaurant. The cave lead into a pitch black chamber with large flow stones, stalagmites and a colony of sleeping bats. Under the sea is a garden with leafy grasses, swaying anemones, tropical fish and iridescent blue clams. After cave exploring and snorkeling, we ordered mai tais from the restaurant and sipped on them at the beach. 

Tour C

A beach hopping tour making stops at a variety of beaches over the course of the day. It’s the second most popular tour on the circuit around El Nido.

Helicopter Island.  An island with a sandy tree lined beach at the base of a cliff. The water gradually gets deeper the further out and the coral becomes more lively with multiple large structures, colorful fish, sea stars and clams. It’s not as lively as points on other tours but still beautiful.

Hidden Beach.  A shallow snd sandy beach reachable after swimming up a channel with aquamarine water nestled between jagged rock walls. The channel had many small jellyfish that stung as we swam. Luckily they were relatively painless.

Matinloc Shrine.  A island shrine with several steps carved into the rock leading to a panoramic lookout over the channel. On a sunny day a gradient of turquoise, aqua and marine blue can be seen along the drop off below the water. We even spotted a sea turtle coming up for air. 

Secret Beach.  An underwater cave that leads to a “secret beach” just beyond. The high tide and strong current prevented us from reaching the beach. 

Talisay Beach.  A narrow beach with a steep drop off just meters from shore. The ledge of the drop off is covered in colonies of spiky black sea urchins and tropical fish. All of the coral was bleached or decaying. On shore is a small cave and a shack with snacks and drinks. 

El Nido Beaches

Crong Crong Beach.  A lengthy beach lined with boutique hotels, tropical styles restaurant and beach shack bars. The water is not swimmable due to jagged coral and hundreds of outrigger boats anchored off shore. It’s a pretty spot to catch the sunset, sip on a cocktail or sit down for a meal. 

El Nido Beach.  A large crescent shaped beach in the middle of town with colorful buildings home to seaside restaurants, bars and hotels. Most tours of the surrounding islands leave from here. It’s a popular spot for beach runners though not the best spot to swim or layout. 

Marimegmeg Beach.  A golden sand beach named after a 100 year old Marimegmeg tree. Its crescent cove is the perfect spot for swimming in the calm turquoise waters while its sunny shore is ideal for sunbathing and picnicking under the palm trees.

Las Cabañas Beach.  A golden sand beach that comes to a point with views of the karst islands throughout the bay. It’s lined with beachfront hotels and restaurants, popular for their sunset views. It’s most accessible during low tide though many areas are non-swimmable due to coral and rocks. The El Nido Zip Line passes overhead from the cliff behind.

Papaya Beach.  A idyllic white sand beach with turquoise waters, palm shaded shores and views of Baicut Bay. About 50ft offshore is a coral reef and field of sea grass with tropical fish, anemones, sea urchins and the occasional jellyfish. The beach is sparsely visited due to its remoteness making it a peaceful retreat to spend the day. There is a beach kiosk with coconuts, snacks and drinks for sale. It’s only reachable by boat or kayak. Unlike its neighbor, Seven Commandos Beach, it’s not offered as a stop on any of the tours. 

Things to Do

Outside of tours and beaches, there are a few nearby activities that were easy to DIY and experience on our own. 

El Nido Zipline.  A 750 meter zipline from a cliffside lookout to an island in the bay. We raced side by side, spinning back and forth as we overlooked the picturesque landscapes surrounding us and the ocean about 20 meters below. It’s possible to ride one way and walk back from the island during low tide. We rode during high tide and took the second zip line back, enjoying the thrilling views again. 

Pro Tip.  Arrive in mid morning or mid afternoon to avoid the post breakfast and post lunch rushes. Otherwise, waits can be up to 2 hours. 

El Nido Via Ferrata Canopy Walk.  An adventure park with a suspension bridge and steep walkways through the jagged and razor sharp cliffs towering above El Nido. Along the route are views of the cliffs ending at a platform with a panorama of the town and harbor. The route down has a couple spider web shaped platforms for observation and photo opps. We booked day of at the ticket office around 10am.

Jayven Kayak Rental.  A kayak rental at Corong Corong Beach with full day rentals. We paid 600 PHP for a double kayaks, returning it before sunset. From here, we kayaked around the boat dotted harbor, rugged cliffs and to Papaya Beach about 45 minutes away. 

Shop at the El Nido Public Market.  A local farmer’s market with booths of vendors selling fresh produce, vegetables, eggs, herbs and groceries. There is a central area with butchers carving meats and fish mongers preparing the day’s catch. Shop keepers are friendly and eager to help. We bought a bounty of items to cook various local dishes. It’s open daily and still bustling until 7pm. The market is cash only and prices are very fair. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Lion’s Sunset Lounge.  A beautiful beachfront restaurant decorated in bamboo, thatchery and natural materials. Their menus features Filipino and tropical dishes. We ordered the calamari rings, ground crab burger and a filet of tuna steamed in a banana leaf. 

El Nido Bakery.  A bakery in town with a display of golden baked pastries made with local flavors. We stopped in for pineapple cake, banana bread, salt bread and hopia ube, a flaky pastry filled with bright purple ube jam. 

Tales of the Islands.  A vibey restaurant and bar with a daily buy one get one happy hour from 3-7pm. We stopped in after a tour, ordering the Coco Tropical, an anise flavored piña colada and a classic sangria.

Happiness Beach Bar.  A cocktail bar along the main beachfront road in town. We stopped in for their buy one get one happy hour after a tour. Try the frozen margaritas and daiquiri! 

Orange Pearl Restaurant.  A beachfront hotel restaurant with views of the islands and bay. We stopped in for their buy one get one happy hour after zip lining and relaxing at Maremegmeg Beach. 

Jarace Grill.  A seaside restaurant at El Nido Beach with the freshest selection of seafood displayed on ice. We hand chose a red snapper and squid to have charcoal grilled with a side of Filipino garlic rice. 

Don Macchiatos.  A small coffee shop beloved for their 39 PHP lattes (less than $1 USD). Try the iced ube latte for a local flavor!

Brunch El Nido.  As its name implies, they do one thing, brunch! Their food menu offers egg dishes, overnight oats, sandwiches and fruit bowls. Bean bags sit at tables on the second floor, perfect for longing with a coffee, mimosa or sangria. 

Art Cafe.  A beachfront cafe and bar at El Nido Beach with freshly baked local pastries. We stopped in for a tuna empanada and cassava bread.

Filipino Cuisine 

Having spent three weeks island hopping across the Philippines, we got to eat and cook several traditional Filipino dishes. We tasted so many delicious local flavors at restaurants in Puerto Princesa, El Nido and on our tours.

Sotanghon Noodle Soup.  A thick and savory noodle soup often made with chicken, carrots, cabbage and sotanghon noodles. We replaced the chicken with marinated tofu giving it a chicken noodle soup flavor.  

Kinilaw.  A Filipino style ceviche made with vinegar washed seafood mixed calamansi lime juice, coconut cream, red onions, hot peppers and ginger. 

Adobo.  A national dish of the Philippines seen on menus across the country. Its base has a seared protein simmered with a sticky soy sauce glaze made with vinegar, brown sugar and pepper. 

Garlic Rice.  Rice cooked with fresh or fried pieces of garlic. It’s served with almost every meal.

Lumpia.  The beloved Filipino style spring roll stuffed with a protein. It’s typically served deep fried and crispy. We made a version using local Bangus fish.

Banana Turon.  A breakfast or dessert style lumpia made with fresh banana filling and sometimes ube jam.

Bangsilog.  A traditional Filipino breakfast pairing with grilled or fried fish, fried eggs and white rice.

Pancit.  A commonly served noodle dish stirfried with carrots and cabbage. 

Champorado.  A chocolaty rice porridge made with cocoa powder and evaporated milk.

Calamansi Juice.  A Filipino juice made with calamansi limes. It has a citrus flavor similar to a mixture of lime, lemon and orange. 

Taho.  A layered dessert made with silken tofu, tapioca pearls and brown sugar sauce. It’s a common street food dish sold by vendors carrying large steel tins.

Ube.  A starchy root vegetable famed for its deep purple color. It’s cooked down into a number of dishes, mostly desserts. We used it to make a sweet jam using a Filipino friend’s family recipe. 

Halo Halo.  The unofficial national dessert of the Philippines. It’s an icy layered treat made with sweetened jellies, root vegetables, corn and cereal drizzled with sweetened condensed and evaporated milks. 

Where to Stay

El Nido Lofts.  A small apartment complex with a handful of lofted studios. It’s a central spot located between the town center and Crong Crong Beach. From here, most places were only a 20 minute walk away. Reserve on Booking.

Getting Around 

Tuk Tuk.  The three wheeled hybrid of a car and motorcycle is the most efficient way of getting around El Nido. Tuk tugs are readily available on the street. Plan to pay in cash and negotiate price before getting in. Typical rides cost between 100 - 300 PHP depending on distance. 

Between Puerto Princesa & El Nido.  The best way to get between Puerto Princess and El Nido is by taking a shared transfer. Shuttles are available from either town’s transport terminal or by booking ahead with a scheduled pick up. After 5 hours of very winding roads, a couple pit stops and speedy driving, we made it to our destination. We booked with Corazon Travels & Tours on Get Your Guide the day before. 

Warning!  If you suffer from motion sickness, this is not the way to travel! The road is full of fast twists, turns and hills.

Location Specifics

Cash Only.  Many businesses and restaurants are cash only. There are ATMs and currency exchanges in town. Withdraw cash in the local currency (Philippine Peso) for the best exchange rate. 

Language.  Tagalong is the national language of the Philippines. It’s heavily influenced by Spanish. English is commonly spoken by most people. 

Power Outages.  There are near nightly power outages about an hour after sunset lasting from a few minutes to over an hour. This was especially true in Puerto Princesa. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe to drink, cook with or use for brushing teeth. Only used bottled water. Let tap water run clear before using it. 

Rain Storms.  There are frequent rainstorms lasting around 20 minutes, even on sunny and clear days. Always carry an umbrella!

Single Use Plastic.  While not entirely banned, it’s strongly encouraged to avoid single use plastic. Bring a re-usable straw, cloth grocery bag and insulated water bottle.

Beware of Jellyfish.  There are signs at every beach warning visitors to beware of jellyfish. We spotted several ranging from the side of a ping pong ball to the side of volleyball. 

When to Visit.  We visited in late May through early June on the curb season between spring and summer. We experienced more warm and sunny days than the couple cloudy and rainy days. 

Elsewhere in The Philippines

We spent three weeks island hopping around The Philippines, witnessing its incredible nature and wildlife, experiencing adrenaline rushes on outdoor activities and immersing ourselves in Filipino culture and cuisine. Overlook the vast palm groves and ride the surf breaks of Siarago. Swim with whale sharks and canyoneer the turquoise rivers of Cebu.

For Next Time…

Palawan is one of those destinations you hope will never change. We imagine coming back years from now and reliving our adventures all over again in addition to experiencing some things we missed. 

Coron.  A rugged and mountainous island with a rainforest, lagoons, coral reefs and ship wrecks. Similar to El Nido, it has its own circuit of 4 tours. The island is reachable by ferry 4 hours from El Nido. 

Nacpan Beach.  A lengthy golden sand beach about an hour north of El Nido by tricycle. Though semi-remote, it has small resorts, beach bars and lounge rentals. 

Tour D.  The only tour on the El Nido circuit that we missed due to timing. It visits island lagoons, coves, beaches and snorkeling points. 

Luang Prabang, Laos

Luang Prabang, Laos

Luang Prabang is the cultural center and former royal capital of present day Laos. Situated along the banks of the Mekong River, the historic town features a former royal palace, Buddhist wats and monasteries, traditional wooden houses and elegant French colonial architecture. As the sun rises, saffron robed monks process through the streets to receive alms. Locals and travelers shop at morning and night markets for street food, handicrafts and locally farmed goods. Along the riverfront, charming cafes and palmed shaded restaurants create a relaxed atmosphere while long boats ferry sightseers on sunset cruises. Turquoise hued waterfalls and dramatic caves adorned with hundreds of Buddha statues await in the county’s lush interior. Visiting for a week, we lived on a private houseboat while exploring this remarkable city. 

The Historic Center 

The historic center is built upon a narrow peninsula between the Mekong and Nam Khan Rivers. Brick laid sidewalks and old architecture make for beautiful walks through the city. Traditional dark wooden houses and French colonial style buildings are designed with pitched clay tiled roofs, teak wooden facades, neutral colored walls and painted shutters. Paper lanterns are suspended from awnings, the Laos & communist flags wave in the breeze while tuk tuks zip by. It’s common to see monks walking the streets in their characteristic saffron robes. Buddhist wats and a former royal palace comprise some of the UNESCO city’s most beautiful sights. 

The Main Street.  The Historic Center’s main street has a north and a south section, each with different road names and their own vibes. 

• Sakkaline Road.  The northern end of the main street has a calm atmosphere with iconic wats, lush with flowering trees, small guesthouses and an array of cute cafes. It ends at a small park with views of where the green waters of the Nam Khan River and brown waters of the Mekong meet. 

• Sisavanvong Road.  The southern end of the main street has a more bustling feeling with boutiques and shops, porch side patios, Buddhist wats, the former royal palace and a daily night market. It continues further into the city. 

The Riverfront.  The riverfront promenade is lined with palm trees, fragrant plumerias, cafes and restaurants. Their bamboo furniture, thatched awnings and twinkle lights create a rustic and jungleous atmosphere. Tour operators offer sunset river cruises down the Mekong on traditional long boats as the current flows past.

The Mekong River.  One of the largest rivers in South East Asia, winding through multiple countries and countless communities. From Luang Prabang, we boated upstream along the rugged countryside, past mountainous landscapes and small riverside villages. We saw people fishing from narrow canoes and spotted the occasional heard of goats and water buffalo. 

Cultural Activities 

The Almsgiving Ceremony.  Each morning, Buddhist monks and monk novices from the town’s many wats process through the streets of historic center accepting alms from people as they pass by. The alms serve as food and a blessing for the monks. Almsgivers often place snacks or scoop small handfuls of sticky rice into their baskets from street side chairs. Vendors sell containers of sticky rice and plates of snacks for 20,000 - 60,000 Kip. The ceremony starts at 5am and wraps up around 6:30am.

Pro Tip.  Arrive by 5:30am. The best places to give alms are in front of wats or along Sakkaline Road. 

Good to Know. Be respectful of the monks, especially when taking photos. Do not interrupt their procession or touch them. 

The Royal Ballet.  A traditional ballet performance with over two dozen dancers dressed in elaborate silk costumes, painted face masks and golden pointed crowns. Musicians play classical Lao instruments including wooden xylophones, brass gongs and drums. We saw the final chapter the Thotsakan, a Hindu and Buddhist legend, telling the story of how the king of demons is defeated in battle. The dancers moved gracefully, in rhythmic motions and moved suddenly for dramatic effect.  The performance lasted an hour and was truly a cultural and visual treat. The theater offer one show per night multiple times per week in the Ramayana Hall at the National Museum.

Pro Tip. Arrive a day before the performance to get first pick of the seats.

Volunteer at The Little Mouse.  A non-profit school promoting and teaching literacy and language across Laos. Children and novice monks from the countryside come here daily to practice English with travelers. Drop in during the mornings or late afternoons to chat with chat with them and help their education. 

See the Sights 

Luang Prabang National Museum.  The museum and grounds feature the royal residence of Laos’ former monarchy. A palm lined driveway leads to its entrance and reception decorated with colorful paintings of the countryside. The elaborate throne room is decorated in colorful glass mosaics depicting stories of Lao history and the Prabang Buddha. On display are Buddhist and royal relics including thrones, crowns, swords, houdahs, amulets, clothing and statuettes. The remainder of the home is more simplistic with tall ceilings, wide corridors along the perimeter and spacious bedrooms. 

Good to Know. It’s strictly forbidden to take photos or wear shoes inside the building. The museum and grounds close from 11:30am-1:30pm.

Prabang Buddha Image Pavilion.  An ornately designed pagoda with gilded embellishments, emerald glass mosaics and dragon staircases. It houses the Prabang Buddha, a golden statue of the Buddha dating back to the first century. It’s one of the most important historical sights so much so that the city was named Luang Prabang after it. It’s located on the grounds of the Luang Prabang National Museum.

Wat Xiengthong.  The largest Buddhist wat in the historic district with several chapels, stupas, drum tower, royal carriage house, ceremonial boats, dormitories and a wood shop. The wat is school and home for many young monk novices. 

• Carriage House.  A red painted building stylized with golden patterns and reliefs. It houses a gilded wooden carriage with large funereally urns and is adorned with the Naga, a seven headed serpent deity. Surrounding it are numerous statues of the Buddha.

• Sim.  A grand and historic Buddhist chapel in the central courtyard. It has a white plaster and blue glass mosaic tiled base with heads of elephants. Its black facade is painted in gold leaf patterns and images of the Buddha. It has a multitiered clay tiled roof with bright green mosaic cornices. Inside its red toned hall is a large golden Buddha statue with many smaller ones encompassing it. The chapel is surrounded by smaller shrines and stupas adorned with colorful glass mosaics that tell stories of farming, conquests and the Buddha’s teaching on the facades. 

• Drum Tower.  A tower with several suspended drums used by monks at times throughout the day to denote time. Visit at 4pm to hear them echo across wat. 

• Boat Shelter.  A pavilion housing ceremonial boats and converted into a wood shop. Monks craft replacement pieces to repair and maintain the wat and its many structures using traditional and decorative techniques while preserving ancient practices.

Wat Sensoukharam.  A Buddhist temple complex with several pagoda style halls, monk residences, ceremonial boats, a golden stupa, drum tower and wood shop. The main halls feature multitiered and stepped roofs decorated with colorful glass mosaic cornices. These red and gold painted facades display elaborate designs, patterns and images of the Buddha.

Wat Mai Monastery.  A Buddhist wat and monastery home to studying monks. At its center is a red painted pagoda style temple covered inside and out with golden ornamentation and detailing. The most notable is a gilded wall at the entrance depicting a visual story of the Buddha. Inside is a shrine with a large golden Buddha statue surrounded by dozens of smaller Buddha statues.

Luang Prabang Heritage House.  A cultural center and museum dedicated to preserving the history, traditions and customs of Luang Prabang. Inside the rooms of a historic wooden stilt house are displays with classical musical instruments, cooking equipment, textiles, clothing and ceremonial home goods. Cooking and craft classes like bamboo weaving and mulberry paper making are regularly offered. Locals come here to rent traditional clothes for photoshoots around the property. An adjoined cafe offers local dishes and herbal teas. We drank iced beal fruit and pandan leaf teas on cushions under the stilt house. The museum is located on a brick alleyway surrounded by Buddhist wats and other historic homes. 

Wat Pa Hauk.  A small temple at the base of Phousi Hill across from the National Museum. It features a mix of architectural elements including wooden columns, ornately carved moldings, a detailed facade and roof inlaid with gold, silver, blue and green glass mosaic tiles. 

Phousi Hill.  A scared mountain in the middle of the city with a golden stupa at its summit. Dragon stairs and walkways lead across its slopes past Buddhist statues, shrines and a monastery. On a clear day, the summit offers panoramic views of the city, its pitched clay tiled roofs, leafy palm trees, the Mekong River and distant mountains. It’s a popular place to watch the sunset. 

Wat Visounnarath.  A Buddhist temple complex dating back over 500 years with temple halls, stupas and wooden structures home to studying monks and sacred texts. One of the most notable sights is The Watermelon Stupa. A reconstructed large white stupa with a square platform, golden lotuses at all four corners and a dome on top that resembles a watermelon. When it collapsed, it revealed statues of the Buddha that are on display in the throne hall of the National Museum.

Explore the Nature

Kuang Si Waterfall.  A picturesque waterfall spilling down a jungleous cliff covered with calcified nodules into a series of cascading terraces. Aquamarine hued water overflows from the terraces into natural pools, offering refreshing places to swim. A 500+ step staircase leads from the base of the waterfall to a countryside lookout with treehouse style observation decks, a zip line course and nature trail. The trail leads to milky blue stream fed by a cold spring at the top of the waterfall. It continues 3km deeper into the jungle to a cave and back to the base of the falls.

Khoun Moung Keo Waterfall.  A small waterfall with a natural swimming pool at its base filled with cool aquamarine water. There is a tranquil restaurant with views of the falls, lounges and an outdoor dining area. It’s located less than five minutes on foot from the Kuang Si Waterfall welcome center.

Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Center.  A sanctuary for Asiatic Black Bears located between the Kuang Si Waterfall and its visitor center. A nature trail leads through dense primary forest to open air enclosures with the jet black bears. We watched the fluffy and cute animals walking around, sleeping in hammocks and chewing on vegetables. 

Getting Here.  Kuang Si Waterfall is located about 45min from Luang Prabang by Tuk Tuk. We hired a driver to bring us there and back and wait 3 hours while we explored. We negotiated the cost to 500K Kip. 

Good to Know.  Arrive by 9am to beat the rush of tourists and larger groups. 

Pak Ou Caves.  A cave temple located two hours up the Mekong River from Luang Prabang. It’s believed to be one of the homes of the Buddha. Above a steep staircase is an upper cave and lower cave, each housing thousands of wooden and metal statues of the Buddha. The upper cave is guarded by a large red wooden door with Buddhist altar and golden cave paintings of the Buddha. The lower cave and its rock formations are adorned in a vast number of Buddha statues, some dating back hundreds of years. 

Getting Here.  The public ferry offers a scenic route up Mekong River in route to Pak Ou Caves. It departs from Watnong Boat Station. The ferry begins operating between 8-9am. Round trip tickets include a stop at The Whisky Village and 40 minutes at the caves. It costs $150K Kip per person. 

Shop the Markets 

Luang Prabang Morning Market.  A daily morning farmers market branching across several narrow alleyways in the historic center. Vendors display their goods on banana leafs and tarps including vegetables, fruits, herbs, spices, teas, eggs, meats and fish. We even spotted more exotic items like live frogs, roasted beetles and water buffalo skin. We shopped here for groceries, planning to cook several local dishes. Some items on our grocery list were kefir lime leaves, mint, galangal, watercress, chili paste, banana blossoms and leafs, rice, mango, rose apple, dragon fruit, tamarind, guava and avocado. We sipped on fresh orange and sugar cane juice while shopping around. 

Pro Tip.‍ ‍Arrive by 7:30am to get the best picks. 

Luang Prabang Night Market.  A daily night market in the historic district along Sisavangvong Road with a section for food and thing vendors. Merchants line both sides of the road selling bohemian style clothing and accessories covered in elephant print, geometric paper lanterns inlaid with leaves and flower pedals, paintings depicting the historic district, woven baskets, wooden statuettes, brass jewelry, painted coconut bowls and plumeria hair clips. Street food carts surround a courtyard lined with picnic tables selling Laos style sausages, Chinese dim sum, Korean tteokbokki, Japanese pancakes, Taiwanese boba tea, grilled skewers with veggies, seafood and meat, baked goods and pastries, local beers and spirits. The food carts continue down an adjacent alleyway. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

For a small town, Luang Prabang has no shortage of restaurants, cafes and bars with Laotian cuisine, local flavors and tranquil ambiance. 

• Cafe Toui.  A restaurant specializing in Lao cuisine. The menu consists of national and local dishes as well as vegetarian versions of typically meat forward ones. All plates are meant to be shared. We split the Khai Phaen, Yam Salad and Mok Pa alongside a liter of Beer Lao. 

• Alounsavth Bakery Cafe & Restaurant.  A riverside restaurant with inexpensive meals and drinks. It’s open early for breakfast and well past the sunset for dinner. Their menu includes a range of traditional Laos dishes and flavors. It’s a popular spot amongst locals, expats and other travelers.

• Le Banneton.  An adorable French style bakery with Laos flavors in its bakes and beverages. We shared a plate of pastries including a coconut and apricot danish, a flaky and buttery croissant & a pear and chocolate turnover. They also sell traditional baguettes and full breakfast entrees. 

• 3 Nagas.  A locally commended cocktail bar in a historic home. Try their namesake, 3 Nagas made with local ingredients like mango juice and honey or the Nam Khan made with rum and kaffir lime syrup. Visit during happy hour for their buy 1 get 1 special. 

• Obama Coconut.  A riverfront cafe inspired by Obama’s visit to Luang Prabang in 2016 when he was photographed sipping on a coconut. We stopped in for coconuts overlooking the Mekong. 

• Soodsoi Mini Bar.  A street side bar cart at the end of the alleyway night market with a range of local spirits like Lao Lao whisky, Laodi rum and Lao gin. The bartender mixes affordable and classic cocktails.

• Aon Noy Bakery.  A bakery cart at both the morning and night markets with a range of baked goods like coconut and almond croissants, banana bread, guava danishes, baguettes and brownies. 

• Leisure Thibe.  An ice cream shop with local flavors like pandan, coconut, taro, durian and matcha as well as western flavors like chocolate, vanilla and strawberry.  

Laotian Cuisine 

• Khai Phaen.  A popular snack made from crispy river weed covered in toasted sesame seeds and served with a spicy chili paste.  

• Sticky Rice.  A sticky variety of steamed rice. It’s eaten daily by most people in Laos. There are two common types. White often served with sliced mango and Black often served with freshly grated coconut. 

• Yam Salad.  A typical Lao salad made from lettuce, water grass, mixed herbs, boiled egg and a tangy sauce. 

• Mok Pa.  A delectable dish made with fish from the Mekong River steamed inside a packet of banana leaves with herbs and coconut custard. 

• Sour Fish Soup.  Fish soup cooked with Mekong River fish and a tasty broth made with tamarind, lemon grass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves and chile peppers. 

• Khao Jee Pate.  A French inspired sandwich similar to a Vietnamese Banh Mi. It’s made on a baguette with a base of liver pate, blanched carrots and cucumber, a mix of local herbs including lemon grass, kaffir lime leaves, thai basil and galangal.  

• Tofu Larb.  Spicy tofu cooked with roasted and ground rice mixed with lemon grass, mint, cilantro, garlic chives, chili and lime. 

• Cheun Yaw.  Laos style spring rolls with a thin and crispy fried exterior. They’re less flaky than classic Chinese spring rolls but no less tasty. Each roll is stuffed with veggies, meat or seafood and served with a sweet and sour peanut sauce. 

• Lao Omelette.  A golden fried egg omelette filled with a range of herbs like cilantro, dill, chives, lemongrass, basil and galangal. 

• Coconut Pancakes.  Gelatinous rice mixed with shaved coconut, formed into patties and grilled.

• Banana Leaves.  While not eaten, many dishes are cooked inside of banana leaves or served on top of them. 

• Butterypea Flower Tea.  A tiny blue flower used to make a floral tea.  It’s also used for coloring white sticky rice.

• Jeow Bong Paste.  A sweet and spicy paste made from dried chili peppers, galangal, garlic and fish sauce. It often has pieces of water buffalo skin. 

• Lao Lao Whisky.  A clear but potent whisky aged in clay jugs. It’s popular across Laos.

• Beer Lao.  The national beer of Laos. Its lager comes in variety of types named after colors as well as a light IPA.

Where to Stay 

Seangsouly Houseboat.  We stayed on a private houseboat docked along the banks of Mekong River in the French colonial old town. The boat is massive, measuring over 100ft long. We relaxed on the rooftop deck, cooked in the outdoor kitchen, dining on traditional furniture and watched the sunset almost nightly. It was an adventurous home and relaxing oasis. We booked our stay on Airbnb.

Location Specifics

Fire & Smoke Weather.  From March through April, northern Laos endures high heat and dry weather. A mixture of forest fires and slash and burn farming indicate the region in a thick haze of smoke, often reaching very unhealthy and hazardous levels. We continually tracked the air quality on IQ Air, minimizing our exposure when possible.

Mosquitos.  Mosquitos and malaria are prevalent along the Mekong River and throughout Laos. We took anti malaria pills during our trip and used insect repellant. 

Dress Modestly.  Wearing pants and covering shoulders when visiting wats, sacred places and cultural sights. It’s forbidden to wear shoes or hats inside. 

Monk Photography.  Be respectful when taking photos of monks. Keep distance and do not interrupt their activities. 

Language.  People in Laos speak Lao. Many local people also know basic English and appreciate practicing with visitors. 

Tickets.  Most sights charge a small entrance fee, usually between 30,000 - 60,000 Kip, equivalent to $2-3 USD. 

Cash vs Card.  Cash is the only accepted. No businesses, cultural sights or vendors accept credit or debit card. 

Currency.  The Lao Kip is the only currency accepted. It is illegal to pay for goods, services, etc. in foreign currency. There are banks to exchange currency and ATMs to withdraw cash throughout the city. 

Getting Around 

Airport Taxi.  A taxi stand just past immigration and customs offers shared rides from the airport to the Old City for 100,000 Kip for 1-2 people. The ride takes less than 15 minutes. 

On Foot.  The Old Town and city are relatively small and easily walkable. 

By Ferry.  There is a public ferry operating daily from 8am to 6:30pm offering trips down the Mekong River to different villages and sights. Round trip tickets cost 150,000 Kip per person regardless of distance. 

Tuk Tuk.  Three wheeled hybrids between a motorcycle are car are readily available across the city. Drivers will bring passengers around the city for 50,000 Kip and to further away distances for 500,000 Kip. 

For Next Time…

We throughly enjoyed our time in Luang Prabang and can’t wait to return to Laos to visit other areas of the country. 

Vientiane.  The capital city of Laos. It’s home to impressive Buddhist temples, French colonial architecture, palm lined boulevards and countless cafes. 

Vang Vang.  A small town along the Mekong River with scenic views of the countryside and rice paddies. It’s popular for its river cruises, tubing excursions and hot air balloon flights.  

Three Whales Rock.  A rock formation in the Thai jungle that resembles a pod of three whales. It’s accessible from Vientiane along the Mekong River. 

Plain of Jars.  An archeological site comprised of thousands of large stone jars scattered across multiple fields and sites. They date back to 500 BCE during the Iron Age. 

A Weekend in Singapore

Singapore

Singapore is living in the future! The city seamlessly blends architecture and nature with its contemporary marvels. The oldest neighborhoods are lined with rows of colorful and historic shop houses. It’s a sophisticated urban playground with cultural institutions, renowned cocktail bars and food halls serving Singaporean and regional cuisine. We spent a long weekend here, exploring the city-state and its alluring ambience.

Arab Quarter

The Arab Quarter is a historic neighborhood of Singapore home to a large Arab population and unique cultural identity. The scent of Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisine wafts from Turkish bakeries and Lebanese grills. Persian rug stores, batik & silk textile vendors and bazaar style souvenir shops occupy ground floor businesses. Streets named after Middle Eastern countries and cities cross the neighborhood. Colorful and ornate shop houses differing in height line the streets. 

Sultan Mosque.  A white stone and golden domed mosque at the end of a Palm lined pedestrian street. It’s one of the most photogenic and visited sights in the Arab Quarter.

Arab Street.  The main road leading through the Arab Quarter with some of the neighborhood’s oldest and most beautiful shop houses. The single to three floor buildings often have Baroque plaster facades, arched windows with wooden shutters, clay tiled roofs and covered sidewalks.

Muscat Street.  An alleyway with eclectic, colorful and funky murals covering the backsides of the shop houses. 

Haji Lane.  A narrow lane known locally for its nightlife and vibrantly painted street art, colorful murals and neon graffiti. Restaurants and bars spill out into the lane, visited by hundreds of people nightly. Live music echos from some bars, particularly the lively, Blu Jazz Club. 

China Town

China Town is one of Singapore’s most historic and vibrant neighborhoods. It is a multicultural district with Chinese influences representative of the city’s modern diversity. The street scene is comprised of eastern and western restaurants, world class cocktail bars, local cafes, bustling night markets and hawker food halls. It’s home to many worldly expats and even LGBTQ+ friendly businesses flying progress flags. Palm lined streets and covered alleyways are flanked by colorful shop houses and religious temples. 

Chinatown Street Market. A large street and night market spanning several streets throughout Chinatown with vendors and shops selling souvenirs and street food.  

Smith Street.  A covered street with beautifully restored and vibrantly painted shop houses home to restaurants and shops. 

Ann Siang Hill Park.A small hilltop park with a winding path surrounded by lush greenery and skyscrapers. 

Thian Hock Keng Temple.  A Taoist temple decorated with dragon columns, Chinese lanterns, golden accents and ornate carvings. 

Buddha Tooth Relic Temple.  A large Chinese style Buddhist temple and museum. It’s red and gold tiered pagoda design makes is one of the best examples of Chinese architecture in Chinatown. Inside are sacred artifacts said to belong to the Buddha. 

Little India

Little India is a neighborhood with many Indian influences, residents and businesses. The scents of spices, incense and Indian cuisine wafts from street side markets, Hindu temples and Biryani restaurants. Baroque style shop houses are home to tea rooms, barbers, jewelers and electronics stores.

Clarke Quay

Clarke Quay is lively neighborhood along the Singapore River promenade with brightly painted shop houses, covered streets, touristy restaurants and shopping malls. It’s the launching point for Bumboat Cruises, a sightseeing tour of the Singapore River and Marina Bay on a traditional wooden boat. The narrated boat tour passes several of the city’s most prominent sights and neighborhoods over the course of 40 minutes.

Boat Quay

Boat Quay is historic neighborhood along the Singapore River with an arc of colorful shop houses and waterfront restaurants. The promenade is lively well into the evening with numerous bars and seafood restaurants specializing in Singapore’s famed chili crab. 

Marina Bay

Marina Bay is Singapore’s famed bay and waterfront walkway. It’s surrounded by modern glass skyscrapers, monuments, museums, luxury stores and hotels, most notably the iconic Marina Bay Sands Hotel. 

Spectra - A Light and Water Show.  A free light and water show in front of Mariana Bay Sands. Fountains spray jets of water and mist into the air as choreographed projectors and lights illuminate them in various colors and images. 

Good to Know.  Shows happen nightly at 8pm. Arrive about 30 minutes early to get a seat along the viewing steps. 

Marina Bay Sands.  Singapore’s most iconic building, recognizable by its three towers connected on top by a large boat shaped platform. The entertainment complex hosts a hotel, mall, casino and series of restaurants. Its platform has an observation deck and multiple rooftop restaurants. We visited Sprago, an elegant bar with views of the city, gardens by the bay, the super trees and strait with hundreds of large container boats. 

Gardens by The Bay.  An impressive city park set against the backdrop of Marina Bay Sands. Its verdant gardens and walkways are home to the famed Super Tree Grove, Cloud Forest and Flower Dome. One can easily spend a whole day exploring the garden’s many sights and wonders. 

The Super Tree Grove.  The Super Trees are series of towering vertical gardens with latticed canopies resembling the shape of trees. Self sustaining local flora grows from planters covering their exterior. At night, the trees are illuminated in vibrant color changing lights. Walking around the Super Trees is a mesmerizing experience both day and night! 

Super Tree Skyway.  A 22m high skyway connecting multiple Super Trees with breathtaking views and perspectives of the surrounding grove, gardens and Marina Bay Sands. 

Super Tree Observatory.  A 60m high observatory on the roof of the tallest Super Tree with panoramic views and an indoor cafe. We preferred the perspective from the skyway much more. 

Garden Rhapsody.  A nightly light show at The Super Trees Grove. The trees canopies and trunks light up in a spectrum of colors, flashing, pulsing and twinkling to the soundtrack of movie scores. It’s a truly magical experience and unlike anything we’ve experienced. 

Good to Know. There are two light shows per night. One at 7:45pm and the other at 8:45pm.

Cloud Forest.  An air conditioned conservatory housing an artificial cloud forest with tropical plants and flowers that thrive in cool and humid environments. An irrigation system releases fog and mist throughout the dome while a large waterfall spills over a towering green wall. Multilevel walkways loop around the dome’s foliage covered hill. 

Flower Dome.  A conservatory housing plants, trees, cacti, succulents and flowers from several regions of the world. Walkways lead through the indoor gardens past baobab trees from Madagascar, dragon trees from Yemen, olive trees from Italy, agave plants from Mexico, cacti from Bolivia and tulips from the Netherlands. 

Good to Know.  Gardens by the Bay are one of the few free sights in Singapore and easily one of the best. The Cloud Forest, Flower Dome, Super Tree Skyway and Observatory each cost extra. 

See the Sights 

Sri Thendayuthapani Monument.  A Hindu temple with a Gopuram, a multicolored pyramid shaped gate decorated layers of sculptures and statues 

The Raffles Hotel.  A historic luxury hotel with tropical gardens and an arcade with shops and restaurants. Visit The Long Bar for a Singapore Sling. 

Park Royal Hotel.  An iconic garden hotel with a topographical facade covered in verdant gardens, green walls and water features. 

Old Hill Police Station.  A historic building and former police station along the Singapore River. Hundreds of window shutters cover its white neo-classical facade are painted in a gradient of colors. 

Former House of Tan Teng Niah.  One of the few remaining Chinese shop houses in Little India. Every surface and ornamental element is painted in a rainbow of colors representing the diversity of the neighborhood and city. 

Merlion Park.  A park along Marina Bay with a statue of a lion head on the body of a fish. The head of the Merlion is a fountain that flows into the bay. It’s a symbol of the port city’s strength. 

Chijmes Hall.  A iconic white cathedral converted into a wedding venue and concert hall known for its candlelit concerts. The hall is surrounded by an outdoor mall with dozens of restaurants, cafes and bars with stages for live musical performances.

Fort Canning Park.  A hilltop park in the center of the city with historical significance and various walking trails. It was once the residence of Malay royalty and the city’s colonial founder. 

National Museum of Singapore.  A museum dedicated to the history of Singapore with exhibits recounting the early Malay period, British colonization, Japanese occupation, independence and modern day. Artifacts on display include several hundred year old pieces of Chinese ceramics, royal jewelry found in present day Fort Canning Park, colonial era maritime maps and portraits of British governors. The museum itself is a prime example neoclassical architecture. Most of it was under restoration when we visited.

Jewel Changi.  A contemporary conservatory and mall at Singapore’s international airport. A circular waterfall flows from the center of the donut shaped glass ceiling. At 40 meters high, it’s famed as the world’s tallest indoor waterfall. Surrounding it are terraced walkways and observatories with views of the verdant and lush interior. Palm trees, tropical ferns, birds of paradise and all types of greenery grow at every level of the indoor forest. The outer corridors are home to a range of shops and restaurants. 

Pro Tip.  Arrive at or after 10am when the waterfall begins to flow. Spend at least an hour here before departing or after arriving.

Hawker Food Halls

Hawker Food Halls are traditional Singaporean markets with food stalls selling local and regional cuisine influenced the city’s multicultural population. They’re some of the most inexpensive places to eat culturally significant meals in Singapore. 

Lau Pa Sat.  The largest and most famous Hawker Food Hall in Singapore. The historic market is housed under an octagonal wrought iron pavilion dating back to the late 1800s. Inside are nearly 100 street food vendors and restaurants selling traditional Malay, Indian, Halal, Thai, Korean, Japanese, Chinese, Turkish and Filipino cuisine. In addition to food, beverage centers sell fresh juices and local beers. We visited two stalls for an Oyster Omelette and a bowl of Seafood Laksa, two classic Singaporean staple dishes. 

Maxwell Food Center.  A Hawker Food Hall in China Town popular with locals and expats. It’s an affordable place to try traditional and regional dishes, one of the most popular being Chili Crab. The dish is made with a fresh crab cooked in and covered with a chili spiced tomato sauce. It’s an extremely delectable and messy dish. We also shared a dish of stir fried noodles, mango smoothie and watermelon juice. 

Good to Know. Bring your own napkins and remember to clean your table to avoid a fine. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Singapore has a vast range of places to eat and drink from local spots to high end restaurants and bars.

Atlas Bar.  A grand and luxurious Art Deco styled bar with elegant cocktails. The space is decorated with velvet and leather furniture, bronze and brass finishes, dimly lit chandeliers and lamps, a balcony overlook and a floor to ceiling bar. Their menu consists of martinis, gin cocktails, prohibition era drinks and vintage spirits. 

Good to Know.  Reservations are recommend however we walked in and joined a short waiting list. There is a smart casual dress code after 5pm. 

Spago.  A restaurant and bar at the top of Marina Bay Sands with sweeping views of Gardens by the Bay and the ship dotted Singapore Strait. We skipped the observatory and came here to enjoy the view while clinking glasses of champagne in a relaxed  setting. 

Good to Know. They have a $30 SGD minimum per person. Most times are “coincidentally” $1 SDG less than the minimum encouraging guests to spend more. 

The Long Bar.  A historic bar at the city’s iconic Raffles Hotel credited with inventing the Singapore Sling. To this day, they make one of the best versions of the fruity and strong cocktail. Try other drinks made with ingredients grown on Singapore’s former spice plantations while shucking peanut shells and tossing them on the floor.

Good to Know. No reservations are accepted. Show up and wait online for about 30 minutes before bringing seated.

Junior The Pocket Bar.  A hidden cocktail bar in Chinatown known for reinventing its menu and decor every several months. We visited when the bar was called Marathi. The space and cocktails reflected 1990s Mumbai. Vibrant colors, spice forward cocktails and indi-pop emulated throughout the bar. We ordered the, Fizzwala a ginger and pomegranate forward gin & tonic as well as the Amrood, a salty citrus and guava cocktail. 

LeVel33.  A brewery that holds the world record for the “highest micro brewery in a building.” While its brews are flavorful and international menu delicious, the real reason to come here is for the view. The outdoor balcony overlooks Marina Bay and some of the city’s most iconic sights.

Shahi Maharaja.  A northern Indian restaurant along the Singapore River in the Boat Quay neighborhood. We stopped in for lunch with a view, samosas and palak pannier. 

Ya Kun Kaya Toast.  A popular breakfast chain serving Kopi Coffee and the Singaporean staple dish, Kaya Toast. 

All Things Delicious.  A cafe and bakery on Arab Street with pastries made using middle eastern ingredients. We ordered a spread of caramel date, gala meleka and feta scallion flavored scones. 

Overscoop.  An ice cream shop in Chinatown with dozens of flavors. Their concept is to add small “overscoop” of any flavor on top of what you order. We ordered a combination of black sesame, ube, taro coconut and green tea flavors. 

iJooz.  A popular vending machine serving glasses of freshly squeezed orange juice from its cache of oranges. There are locations on streets across the city. 

Singaporean Cuisine 

Singaporean cuisine is a blend of Indonesian, Malay, Chinese and Indian flavors. Some of the most iconic dishes to try are: 

Chili Crab.  The national dish of Singapore and a must have when visiting the country. The dish is made with a fresh crab cooked in and covered with a chili spiced tomato sauce. 

Oyster Omelette.  An egg omelette cooked with a starchy batter, oysters and fish sauce. It’s sautéed until crispy and broken into smaller pieces. 

Seafood Laksa.  A spicy and flavorful Singaporean noodle soup made with a mixture of seafood like shrimp, clams, oyster and fish. 

Kaya Toast.  A sandwich made from crustless and toasted white bread with slices of butter and Kaya Jam, a coconut and pandan spread. It’s often served with soft boiled eggs and kopi coffee.

Kopi Coffee.  A traditional Singaporean coffee made using robusta beans brewed in a cloth percolator and poured from a long spouted pot. 

Gula Melaka. A sugar made from the sap of coconut palms. It’s a common flavoring in pastries and desserts with a sweet and caramely flavor. 

Singapore Sling. A gin based cocktail with fruity and tropical flavors including pineapple and cherry. 

Where to Stay

The Heritage Collection.  A local hotel chain that specializes in converting shop houses across the city into short term rentals. We stayed at their location on Arab Street. Book on Airbnb. 

Location Specifics

Cash vs Card.  Cash is not needed. Credit cards are accepted everywhere. 

Local Laws.  Be aware of local laws before traveling to Singapore. The country has strict punishments for what it sees as disrupting public order. Some examples relate to cursing, chewing gum, singing, public displays of affection, smoking and drinking. 

Singapore is Expensive! Singapore is an extremely expensive destination. We limited our time here to only a few days and braced ourselves for the sticker shock before arriving. Some tips for traveling here on a budget:

• Eat at hawker food halls for authentic and inexpensive meals. 

• Seek out happy hours for drinks or avoid purchasing alcoholic beverages. 

• Sightsee on foot without booking tours. 

• The light shows at Marina Bay Sands and the Super Tree Grove in Gardens by the Bay are free!

For Next Time…

We loved our short but packed time in Singapore. We can’t wait to return for another long weekend or even more extended stay. 

Stay in China Town.  We only felt a taste of the energy and atmosphere of China Town. Next time we visit Singapore, we plan to stay here, likely in Heritage Collection Chinatown.

Visit the Nature Parks.  Outside of the modern city are multiple nature parks and reserves with unique features specific to Singapore.

• Tree Top Walk.  An adventure park with tree top suspension bridges and boardwalks leading through and over the rainforest.  

• Bukit Timah Nature Reserve.  A small nature reserve with various hiking trails and opportunities for wildlife spotting. 

• Night Safari at the Singapore Zoo. A biodiverse zoo with a nightly safari through trails to spot nocturnal animals. 

Taipei, Taiwan

Taiwan’s Capital City

Taipei is a sprawling metropolis and the capital city of Taiwan. The country has a historic past rooted deeply in culture, cuisine and political rivalry. Taipei’s streets are built up with modern skyscrapers displayed with vertical signs written in Mandarin characters. The neighborhoods are home to night markets, tea houses, spice shops, dumpling restaurants and spiritual temples. The silhouettes of mountainous surround the city as highland towns and nature trails speckle their slopes. We spent a week here meeting up with two couples who showed us around the city they frequently visit and call home.

Neighborhoods & Streets

Dihua Street.  A historic street in the Datong District, one of the oldest areas of Taipei. The street is lined with traditional red brick and stone buildings. Within the buildings are street are bakeries, tea houses, pottery studios, book stores, cafes and various provisions shops selling dried goods. Merchants sell fermented soy sauces, candied goods, nuts, paper lanterns, spices, woven baskets and bags. 

Bopiliao Historic District.  A historic district with traditional merchant houses. The old brick buildings have wooden facades and inset arched walkways decorated in red paper lanterns. Many of the houses have been restored and converted into museums and cultural studios. 

Ximending. The “Gayborhood” of Taipei. It’s centered around a historic brick theater with numerous gay bars, drag shows and happy hour specials. It’s a vibrant and fun spot to visit any night of the week. We met up with friends at Cafe Dalida for cocktails and light bites. 

See the Temples & Sights  

Lungshan Temple.  A historic temple  with highly stylized halls dedicated to three eastern religions of Buddhism, Confucianism and Taoism. The temple is decorated with elaborate dragon statues and large paper lanterns. Ornately carved stone columns line the halls while detailed painted doors and beams recount legends and stories. The front courtyard is flanked by water features, a koi pond with a variety of the beautiful fish and a waterfall. Locals can be seen here praying and ask the gods questions using red wood blocks shaped like orange slices.

Taipei Confucius Temple.  A temple dedicated to the Confucius. The central meditation hall is surrounded by corridors with tablets honoring past Confucius scholars. It has multi colored painted details and ornaments.

Dalongdong Baoan Temple.  A spiritual temple dedicated to Taiwanese and Chinese folklore. Like the other temples, it’s equally as stylized but with many more painting and depictions of legends and stories. It’s considered one to the most important temples in the city and to Taiwanese people. 

Taipei 101.  The tallest building in Taipei and the former tallest building in the world. It’s a symbol of Taiwan with its iconic bamboo and pagoda shaped structure. The design is reminiscent of growth, strength and connection to the sky. High speed elevators rise to the tower’s observation decks. Floor 89 hosts the lower observation deck with indoor views of the surrounding city and mountains. At the center of the floor is the 660 ton mass damper designed to counter the building’s movement in high winds, typhoons and earthquakes. Floor 101, the top floor of the building and upper observation deck offers sweeping views of the metropolis from 508 meters in the sky. 

Xiangshan Trail (Elephant Trail).  A stepped nature trail leading into the “Four Beasts Mountain” with panoramic views of Taipei 101 and the city. The viewpoint is a quick hike from the trail head and best during the morning light before 11am. The trail continues further into the mountain in several directions. 

Liberty Square.  A grand plaza dedicated to Taiwan’s democracy and founding with monuments, gardens, the national concert hall and national theater.

• Liberty Square Arch.  A massive white gate at the entrance of the square with five arches and stepped blue tiled roofs. 

• National Concert Hall & National Theater.  Two larger than life pagoda style buildings housing performance halls and theaters. The twin buildings mirror each other on opposite sides of the square. They’re defined by their stone base, red columns, elegantly painted beams and orange tiled roofs. We visited the recital hall for a friend’s classical concert and bubble tea in the base of the recital hall. 

• Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall.  A monument and museum dedicated to the first president of Taiwan. Inside the 8 sided pagoda is a seated bronze statue of the leader and galleries recounting the countries storied history and road to becoming a democracy. 

The Grand Hotel.  A historic hotel designed like a large red pagoda. The building sits on a hill at the edge of the city with view’s of its skyline. Its spacious lobby is lined with red columns and carpets, decorated in finely painted beams and large Chinese lanterns. Friends took us here to dine with a view of the city and for cocktails in a bar themed like the hotel’s escape tunnel. 

The National Palace Museum.  A museum with thousands of artifacts from Chinese dynasties dating back 5,500 years. Galleries feature jade objects, jewelry and weapons, bronze pots, fine ceramics, calligraphic paintings and scrolls. Two of the most beloved pieces are a Jade Cabbage and Piece of Pork. A museum restaurant with serves Taiwanese dishes. We stopped in for dim sum dumplings, buns and lotus leaf wrapped sticky rice served in bamboo steamers.  

Presidential Office.  A red brick and white stone building housing the presidential offices. Military guards patrol the grounds as palm trees sway out front. 

The Red House.  A historic theater in Ximending with a two floor market of craft vendors selling cute jewelry, accessories and clothing. The theater has a small event space and is surrounded by gay bars. 

Day Trip to Jiufen 

Jiufen is a historic mountain town north of Taipei famed for its alleyways decorated with red paper lanterns, Taiwanese street food and overlooks with sunset views. 

Jiufen Old Street.  The old street is the glowing heart of the town. Its narrow and winding walkways are decorated in red paper lanterns that warmly illuminate the walkway and businesses below. Sweets shops, street food vendors and souvenir stores occupy small store fronts as a steady flow of visitors pass by. The smell of grilled meats, steamed buns and brewed teas invites people in while the wafting smell of stinky tofu assaults the senses. Customers walk in and out of shops selling cute figurines, nougat candies and Taiwanese teas. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Amie Teahouse.  A teahouse in a historic building with communal tea rooms overlooking the mountains and boasting stunning sunset views. The photogenic building is decorated with red paper lanterns and one of Jiufen’s most beloved sights. It’s a popular spot to partake in Taiwanese tea ceremony. 

Taiwanese Tea Ceremony.  We visited Amie Teahouse for a traditional Taiwanese tea ceremony. We shared a pot of locally grown oolong tea paired with a selection of sweets. The server began by pouring hot water over the tea dishes to warm and cleanse them. He filled the tiny clay pot with tea leaves and water to wash and loosen them. The same water was used to continue cleansing the dishes. More water was used to steep our first pot for severals seconds before serving in tiny cups. A bamboo tray caught all of the spilled water. We repeated the ceremony several times after while snacking on the sweets and watching the sunset. 

A Gan Yi Taro.  A street food restaurant serving Jiufen’s prized dish, Taro Balls. The purple, yellow and beige taro balls are sweet and chewy bite size nuggets made from taro root and sweet potato. They’re served over a cup of shaved ice mixed with sweet syrup and beans. 

Golden Bar.  A cocktail bar with an indoor balcony and rooftop overlooking the mountainous slopes and coast. Many of their cocktails have a base of tea and herbal syrups.

Tips for Visiting Jiufen

Expect Crowds. Thousands of visitors descend on the town for the sunset. The streets become less crowded about 2 hours later when most tour buses leave. 

Cash vs Card.  Bring cash when visiting as many places don’t accept credit card. 

Getting Here.  Take the Taiwan Railway from Songshan Station to Ruifang. Trains leave every 30 minutes and take 30 minutes to travel between stations. From Ruifang, take an Uber or taxi to Jiufen. Fares have set rates either way. 

Visit the Night Markets

Raohe Street Night Market.  One of the largest night markets in Taipei specializing in Taiwanese and Chinese street food. Dozens of vendors cook grilled, fried, griddled and to go meals, fresh juices and candied fruits. Many of the buildings lining the street are lined with all types of claw machine filled plush toys and small trinkets. 

Huaxi Street Night Market.  A lively covered market street decorated with colorful paper lanterns and bright signs. Its lined with restaurants and street food kitchens serving Taiwanese and Chinese cuisine. Bustling with locals and tourists, the air is filled with the aromas of savory, sweet, and famously “stinky” dishes as visitors hop between stalls sampling street food.

Places to Eat & Drink

Din Tai Fung.  A very popular Taiwanese dumpling restaurant with locations across the island. Waiters or robots deliver bamboo baskets of steamed dumplings. We ordered a variety of veggie, shrimp and soup dumplings. Arrive an hour before planning to eat and take a ticket in line. Return when the ticket suggests to be seated.

1900 Bar.  An old world European style bar with elegant gin cocktails, absinthe drips and a selection of cognacs. The bar is located on the second floor of a corner building on Dihua Street.

Du Hsiao Yueh.  A traditional Taiwanese restaurant on Dihua Street operated by the same family since 1895. The menu features a blend of Taiwanese, Chinese and Japanese small plates ment for sharing. We ordered the…

Chin Shui Tang.  One of Taiwan’s original bubble tea cafes. Their traditional bubble tea is served in an ice cream float glass with small boba pearls and an iced milky tea. They have multiple locations across the city. 

SanFormosan Café & Roastory Dihua Shop.  A higher end coffee shop on Dihua Street with house roasted coffee beans and a wide range of coffee beverages infused with herbal and floral syrups. 

Milksha.  A Taiwanese tea chain with locations across the city. Come here for bubble milk teas or fruity teas.

Meiweizaodian Station.  A true mom and pop breakfast restaurant operated by our friend’s family. We came here for a traditional Taiwanese brunch with plates of scallion pancakes, danbing and black pepper noodles. 

Smith & Wollensky.  A “sky bar” with views to Taipei 101 and the city. Come fore their happy hour between 5-7pm. Try the Tea No.12 or Garden 47 for a contemporary cocktail made with tropical flavors. 

Taiwanese Cuisine 

Taiwan is a culinary treat for East Asian and flavors and cuisine. We cooked several dishes in our Airbnb and tasted others while dining out. 

Scallion Pancakes.  Flaky pancakes layered with fresh scallions and pan fired. It’s often served with soy sauce and chili oil as an appetizer or snack. 

Bubble Tea.  A famed and beloved Taiwanese beverage traditionally made with black tea, milk, sweetener, ice and tapioca pearls (aka boba). Its sipped through a thick straw to suck up the chewy boba. 

Congee.  A rice porridge dish flavored with savory sauces and garnishing like chili oil, soy sauce and scallions. It’s popular for breakfast. 

Pineapple Cake.  A cookie like pastry filled with pineapple jam. It’s a popular treat across Taiwan and a common celebratory dessert. 

Danbing.  A typical Taiwanese breakfast dish known as rolled egg crepes. They’re made from a gelatinous batter and topped with eggs, cheese and scallion then rolled and cut into pieces.

Dou Jiang.  Heated soy milk curdled with vinegar and seasoned with soy sauce. Pieces of deep fried donuts are soaked in the mixture creating  a soggy like soup. It’s a popular Taiwanese breakfast dish.  

San Ming Zhi.  A Taiwanese sandwich made with toasted and crustless white bread. It’s common for breakfast and on the go. We ordered one with egg, cheese and sweet pickled cucumber. 

Stinky Tofu.  A pungent tasting and smelling fermented tofu dish. It’s polarizing between those that despise it and others that deeply enjoy it. It can be served fried or boiled.

Polo Bun.  A craggily and buttery bun often stuffed with butter, ice cream or pineapple paste.

Location Specifics

Language.  Chinese or Mandarin is the most widely spoken and written language in Taiwan. Public signage is often written in English as subtext. Knowing a few basic phrases and words and having an offline translator is helpful. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit card is widely accepted across Taipei however having some cash on hand is helpful for smaller establishments, minor expenses and places outside of the capital city. 

Getting Around 

MRT.  The easiest way to get around Taipei is by subway. The system has train lines crisscrossing the city and connecting to the airports. It’s a clean, efficient and safe way to travel. Tokens can be bought per ride to specific stations using kiosks or with a transit card. Kiosks are in several languages including English. 

Taxis & Uber.  Taxis and Ubers are readily available across the city. They use meters and have set fares. They’re great for reaching areas the subway may not. 

For Next Time…

We stuck primarily around Taipei during our time here. Next time we visit the Taiwan, we hope to venture out to some of the island’s natural sights and national parks.

• Kenting National Park.  A national park at the southern tip of the island with golden sand beaches, coastal hiking trails, beach caves and marine life. 

• Dashibishan Trail.  A 1km long boardwalk trail on the eastern side of the island with cliffside and ocean views. 

• Taroko National Park.  A rugged park centered around a steep gorge with foot bridges, waterfalls and mountain shrines. 

• Fulong Beach.  A lengthy golden sand beach on the north east side of the island with monstrous sand castle contests. 

• Lisong Hot Springs.  A mineral hot spring with thermal rivers and hiking trails in the interior of the island 

Krabi, Thailand

Krabi, Thailand

Krabi is a tropical paradise where adventure and relaxation merge. Between the white sand beaches and verdant palm groves are stunning natural nights. Mountainous trails lead through the jungle to panoramic viewpoints, natural hot springs, blue lagoons and dark caves. The sounds of singing birds and humming cicadas echo across the rainforest. Kayakers paddle by as long tail boats speed across the sea past towering islands and sheer cliffs. Street vendors sell fresh fruits, tropical cocktails and Thai cuisine. The evenings glow with the warmth of the sunset nightly fire dance performances. We spent a week here in the town of Ao Nang with day trips to Railay Beach and several natural sights. 

Ao Nang

An Nang is a lively beach town in Krabi near many of the peninsula’s best beaches and natural sights. The town’s waterfront boulevard and palm lined streets are home to restaurants, bars, boutique hotels, beachwear shops, spas, daily night markets, tattoo studios, smoke shops and Muay Thai gyms.

Things to Do 

Relax at Ao Nang Beach.  A shallow golden sand beach with a palm lined promenade at the center of Ao Nang. It’s a hub for leisurely and relaxing activities like sunbathing, getting a massage, reading books under the shade, sipping on cocktails and watching the sunset. The water swimmable and warm with vendors offering kayak and stand up paddle rentals. Long boat taxis and tour operators leave from here to reach nearby beaches and nature reserves across the peninsula. The north side of the beach is the most commercial while the south side has several small resorts and higher end restaurants. 

Hike The Monkey Trail.  A precarious wooden stepped trail leading through the jungleous hillside between Ao Nang and Pai Plong Beaches. Monkeys are known to lurk along the trail, grabbing people’s water bottles, food, phones and loose belongings. We saw several of them near at the Ao Nang side of the trail but avoided any close encounters. 

Relax at Pai Plong Beach.  A public beach at the one end of the Monkey Trail. The beach is maintained by a resort that offers day passes to non guests with access to lounges, pools, kayaks, restaurants and bars. The beach itself is free to use. 

Ride in a Long Tail Boat.  Thailand’s iconic long tail boats are the best way to DIY an island hopping experience and get between the beaches of Krabi and the islands in the Andaman Sea. In Ao Nang, the boats depart from Ao Nang Longtail Boat Service Club at Ao Nang Beach and the Nopparat Thara Pier. Tickets can be purchased from adjacent ticket offices starting at 100 Bhat one way, cash only. Public signs regulate rates and hours of operation. Long tail boats are painted wooden boats with a long pole and propeller extending from their engine. The design allows the boats to navigate in shallow waters without damaging coral reefs. 

Eat at the Ao Nang Night Market.  A sprawling night market with hundreds of food stalls and vendors selling Thai cuisine including noodles and rice dishes, spring rolls, curries, fresh seafood, mango sticky rice and rolled ice cream. A large dining area and beer garden is centered on a stage with live singers and nightly performers. It’s a very popular place to try the local cuisine and should be a stop at least one night while in Krabi.

Order To Go Cocktails.  Several walk up bars along the beachfront boulevard offer an expansive list of to go cocktails. They’re more affordable than most happy hours, usually costing 100 Bhat per drink. We ordered tropical drinks like planters punch, mai tais, zombies and rum punch while relaxing on the beach. 

Watch the Fire Dancers.  Groups of talented fire dancers put on nightly performances along Ao Nang Beach. We caught one performance on Saturday night at 9pm near the Lan Le Restaurant. The group of dancers spun flaming pinwheels, ropes and cubes, “breathed” fire and scattered glowing embers as they danced beneath. The shows are free but tipping is encouraged at the end.  

Dine at The Last Fisherman.  A beachfront restaurant at Ao Nang Beach serving Thai food and international cuisine. Dining tables are arranged across the sandy patio under the shade of beach trees with hanging basket lanterns. We came here for lunch, enjoying fish burgers while overlooking the sea and sheer rock cliffs of the nearby mountain.

Railay Beach

Railay Beach is a peninsula famed for its world renowned beaches, breathtaking natural sights and outdoor activities. Karst mountains with climbable rock cliffs, steep hiking trails and cavernous caves provide daring and adventurous opportunities to explore. Tropical forest, coconut groves and coastal mangroves bathe the peninsula in a sea of green. Picturesque white sand beaches with turquoise hued waters are perfect for sunbathing, swimming, snorkeling and kayaking. The peninsula itself is semi-secluded, only reachable by boat from neighboring beaches. At its center is a sleepy and tranquil town with a youthful vibe. It contrasts the club and party scene found elsewhere in southern Thailand. 

Railay Beach West.  A crescent shaped white sand beach flanked by towering limestone mountains. Beachfront restaurants, boutique hotels and bars line its shore. Swimmers and kayakers enjoy the beach’s calm turquoise waters. Colorful long boats ferry passengers in and out of the peninsula from here. 

Railay Beach East.  A shoreline and cove on the eastern side of the peninsula near many of the area’s hotels. Guests often arrive and depart from here by boat. Tractors pull wagons of people and their luggage between the boats and shore. Though scenic and beautiful, there are much better beaches to swim and relax at. 

Visit Bobo Plaza.  A sand covered pedestrian street connecting Railay Beach West and East. It’s lined with hostels, thai food restaurants, climbing outfitters, massage spas, tattoo studios and smoke shops. It’s a hub for activity but still feels hidden and under developed. 

Enter Diamond Cave.  A cave named after its glittering rock formations hidden within the karst mountain. A boardwalk leads into the cave through a tall and narrow slit. Once inside, amber colored crystals and stones shimmer in the light. Towering walls and chambers are draped in layers of stalactites and ribbon-like rocks.

Walk The Stalactite Trail.  A trail leading from Railay Beach East to Pra Nang Beach. It winds beneath a cliff with dangling stalactites and small caves. 

Hike to The Railay East Viewpoint & Lagoon.  Midway along the Stalactite Trail is a steep rocky hill covered in tree roots and ropes. The rope guided route leads up the hill to a fork in trail. Left leads to the viewpoint overlooking Railay Beach East. Right leads to the hidden lagoon. 

• Railay East Viewpoint.  Once navigating the steep rope guided trail, hiking to the viewpoint is fairly easy. The small lookout boasts picturesque views of the peninsula’s lush karst mountains, dense coconut groves, the tan sand beach below and turquoise bay dotted with long tail boats. 

• Hidden Lagoon.  A difficult and rigorous trail leads down a series of cascading cliffs to reach the lagoon. It involves a heavy amount of free climbing along steep rocky cliffs with ropes guiding the way for support. The lagoon is surrounded by vertical cliffs covered in foliage. The water rises and falls with the tide. We visited at midday when the lagoon in direct sun but shallow and muddy. 

• Pro Tips. Go slow, be conscious of your footing and know your limitations. Wear sturdy closed toe shoes. Shake mud off your shoes before climbing back up the trial to avoid slipping. Wear insect repellant to minimize mosquito bites.

Relax & Adventure at Phra Nang Beach.  A gorgeous tan sand beach with aquamarine waters and adventurous activities. The beach is the perfect spot for soaking up the sun, relaxing under shaded trees, swimming in the calm waters, kayaking around offshore islands, exploring caves and learning to climb. It quickly became our favorite beach in southern Thailand! 

• Phra Nang Kayak Rentals.  Single and double kayaks are available for rent at Pra Nang Beach for 300 Bhat per hour. We padded around the bay, rocky islands and to Railay Beach West in under an hour. 

• The Grotto.  An elevated restaurant built along the base of a cliff and a small cave at Phra Nang Beach. It has a romantic and truly unique atmosphere.

• Princess Cave.  A cave at Phra Nang Beach with a Hindu altar dedicated to fertility. Hundreds of colorful and wooden phallic statuettes are piled together and placed erect in the cave.

The Bat Cave & Railay Beach West Viewpoint.  A vast cave with dark chambers and natural windows looking out towards the sea and Railay Beach West. The cave is reachable via a trail from the far end of Phra Nang Beach. Once inside, unmarked routes continue deeper into the karst mountainside. We followed footsteps, bamboo ladders and a breeze into pitch black chambers, exploring their offshoots and sculptural rock formations. Daylight crept through a point in the distance, opening up to stunning viewpoint overlooking Railay Beach West. Exploring the cave is very DIY and most people don’t enter further than the mouth. They’re sorely missing out. 

Pro Tip.  Wear sturdy shoes for hiking and bring a flash light to see in darkness. 

Brunch at D’Oasis Cafe.  A cafe at Railay Beach East specializing in fresh fruit smoothies and bowls. We ordered a mango smoothie and an açaí bowl while overlooking the beach. 

Happy Hour at Hawkeye Thai.  A tropical styled beach front restaurant and bar at Railay Beach East. We stopped in for happy hour piña coladas while waiting for our long tail boat back to Ao Nang.

Krabi’s Natural Sights 

Dragon’s Crest Nature Trail.  A lengthy nature trail leading through dense jungle to a mountaintop summit with views of Krabi. The shaded trail is nearly 4km one way with occasional lookouts over the valleys, mountains and Andaman Sea. Near the summit, a clearing called the “stone courtyard” offers sweeping views of the peninsula. From the summit, the landscape comes into full view. Towering rock mountains abruptly rise from the land and sea as farmland and palm groves cover the valleys. Along the trail, we spotted black and blue winged butterflies, monitor lizards and monkeys. The beautiful song of birds contrasts the eerie hum of cicadas, resembling the sound of violins in a horror film. 

Good to Know.  Arrive before last entry at 2pm. Bring plenty of water for the 8km round trip hike. There’s a ranger station to stock up on more water and snacks before or after the hike. Use the free hiking sticks by the trial head or for rent one at the ranger station. 

Getting Here.  We took a Grab from Ao Nang to the park entrance and back. It took about 30 minutes before being paired with a return driver. 

Khao Phra Bang Khram National Park.  A protected rainforest with a natural spring and three vibrantly hued pools fed by its flowing waters. A boardwalk leads 1km through the rainforest to reach the series of pools. Water floods across the forest floor creating layers of mineral sediment. 

• Blue Pool.  The small natural spring and source of water for the river and pools. It’s surrounded by dense tropical forest and ferns. From the boardwalk, bubbles are visible in the center of the spring. Under direct sunlight, the crystal clear water glows iridescent blue

• Emerald Pool.  A fresh water pool fed by the natural spring with an aquamarine hue. It’s the only pool that can be swam in. The cool and mineral rich water feeling refreshing under the hot sun.

• Crystal Pool.  A vibrant green pool fed by the natural hot spring. It’s home to blooms of algae, small fish and decaying trees.

Hot Stream Waterfall.  A natural hot spring with mineral rich water that flows over a small terraced waterfall with shallow pools. The pools act as hot tubs as water rushes from one to the next. The water is about 40C (104F). Even on a hot day, sitting in the water feels enjoyable. Time is limited to 20 minutes in the pools.

Pro Tip. Enter the pools barefoot. The rocks offer some traction however patches with algae are extremely slippery when wearing shoes or sandals. 

Tiger Cave Temple Mountain.  A mountain top Buddhist temple reachable after a series of 1,260 steep steps rising 309 meters vertically. The summit of the mountain has a golden statue of the Buddha, stupa and small shrine. The view from the summit overlooks fields of palm trees, a vast mountain ridge and the distant Andaman Sea. 

Getting Here. We visited the pools, hot stream waterfall and tiger cave mountain via a shared transfer with Trip Guru. They provided transportation and free time to explore all of the sights along the full day itinerary. 

Where to Stay

Mr Long Hostel & Restaurant.  An inexpensive hostel and campground located in Ao Nang. It’s very much “in the nature” as advertised with rustic cabins and tents occupying the grounds. It gives off hippie and stoner vibes with many long term bohemian guests. The restaurant offers homestyle Thai dishes including a complementary breakfast comprised of sticky rice wrapped in banana leaves, Thai fried donuts with sweetened condensed milk and fresh fruit harvested on the property. Book on Airbnb. 

Getting Around 

Phuket Ferry.  A ferry company that aggregates boat operators across Phuket, Krabi and the surrounding islands in the Andaman Sea. It’s a beautiful and affordable way to sightsee while getting around. We booked one way tickets from Phuket to Ao Nang in Krabi with Ao Nang Travel and Tour Co. The trip took under 2 hours including a transfer from the pier to our accommodation. 

Tuk Tuks.  Thailand’s three wheeled carts are available around Krabi’s towns. They’re great for traveling short distances, often costing 50-100 Bhat per person. 

Grab.  Southeast Asia’s popular taxi app is available in Krabi. It’s useful for traveling longer distances to natural sights and the airport. Wait times can be long and prices are more expensive than tuk tuks. 

On Foot.  Ao Nang is easily walkable, especially along the waterfront boulevard. 

Krabi vs Phuket

We spent about a week in each Krabi and Phuket. We enjoyed our time in both destinations but can say without hesitation that we love Krabi more! 

Krabi, though still touristy, feels significantly more local than Phuket. It’s lesser developed in parts, has a more authentic atmosphere and slower pace. It’s close to untouched natural wonders including islands dotting the Andaman Sea. 

Phuket has several developed beach towns but lacks local culture due to the vast number of expats and its clubby environment. There is less access to nearby nature however many tours to islands in the Andaman Sea frequently leave from here. 

Elsewhere in Thailand 

We spent over a month in Thailand, experiencing Thai culture, cuisine and nature on our travels between cities, beach and countryside. Explore our other travel guides on this beautiful country. Eat your way through the street food capital of the world, Bangkok. See the Buddhist wats and elephant sanctuaries of Chiang Mai. Experience the party scene and beaches of Phuket. 

For Next Time… 

We absolutely loved our time in Krabi and hope this sliver of paradise never changes. When we return, we plan to Stay in Railay Beach instead of taking day trips from Ao Nang. Some sights and activities we’re keeping top 

Rock Climbing at Phra Nang Beach.  We missed our opportunity to rock climb and repel in Railay Beach. Several outfitters offered beginner courses on some of the peninsula’s sheer cliffs, specifically at Phra Nang Beach.

Island Tours.  Longboats from the piers and beaches offer day trips to several islands in the Andaman Sea. 

• 4 Islands Boat Day Trip:  A long boat tour to the islands of Poda, Tup, Chicken & West Railay. 

• 3 Islands Snorkeling Day Trip:  A long boat tour to the islands and reefs of Mae Urai, Yawabon & Yawasam

Phuket, Thailand

Phuket, Thailand

Phuket is an island in southern Thailand known for its breathtaking landscapes, tropical beaches and vibrant towns. Long sandy beaches line the aquamarine shores of Phuket’s coast. Bays famed for their iconic stone islands are teaming with underwater reserves and marine life. Old town streets are lined with bright and colorfully painted buildings. Popular beach towns welcome travelers from across the world while floating villages offer a glimpse into the local culture.

Beaches & Beach Towns

Kata Beach.  A small but popular golden sand beach with thousands of lounge rentals, street food stands, boat tour companies and surf board rentals. 

Patong Beach.  A large crescent shaped beach with a white sandy shore and aquamarine hued water. Vendors rent sun lounges & umbrellas and sell street food & local beers. Party goers dance at beach clubs while others parasail overhead. We laid out under the palms and rented lounges for the afternoon, swam in the playful waves and walked the length of the beach. The north side is quieter and cleaner than the south side. 

Karon Beach.  A beach town with a lengthy yellow sand and palm lined beach with swimmable turquoise water. It’s significantly less busy than Patong Beach and was our favorite of those we visited in Phuket. We spent an afternoon living our best tropical lives under an umbrella with drinks in hand. Between the shore and promenade are beach shacks with fresh juices, smoothies and cocktails. Vendors rent affordable lounges and umbrellas, also offering parasailing and jet skis tours.

Beach Prices.  Two lounges and an umbrella cost 200 Bhat for the day. Beers cost 60 Bhat per bottle. Street foot ranges from 40 to 80 Bhat per dish. 

Things to Do 

Hike to the Big Buddha Lookout.  A hiking trail up the hillside near Karon Beach to the Big Buddha Lookout with sunset views of the island and ocean. The trail is steep with loose gravel and trenches formed by heavy rain. Rope rails are installed throughout to make the hike easier. The trail lets out at road that continues uphill towards the Big Buddha. It passes a few roadside cafes and small lookouts. The trail takes less than 30 minutes to hike. Wear sturdy shoes and insect repellant. 

Finding The Trail Head.  On Google Maps, look for the pin Trail to Big Buddha or Kata Karon Hiking Trail. 

Walk to the Monkey Hill Viewpoint.  Monkey Hill is exactly as its name implies, a hill with a view and a lot of monkeys. A steep roadway leads to lookout over the city of Phuket and the bay. On the way up, large groups of monkeys gather along the edge of the road, waiting to be fed by park staff or prey on unsuspecting visitors. It takes about an hour to walk. Many locals come here to exercise and jog. 

Warning! Beware of the monkeys! They can be aggressive, even if unprovoked. Do not carry in any food or plastic nor wear any loose fitting clothing or accessories. Carry a stick or long umbrella for protection. You won’t need to use it but it warns the monkeys to think twice before jumping on you.

Visit the Phuket Old Town.  A historic neighborhood of Phuket with vibrantly painted two floor buildings influenced by early European and Chinese immigrants. The architecture combines both western and eastern styles. The ground floor features dark wooden Chinese style doors, windows shaped like lotus flowers and gold painted ornamentation. The second floor features tall arched windows with slatted shutters and baroque style stucco designs. Many dessert cafes, international restaurants and shops selling Thai made goods occupy their ground floors. 

Tour the Chalong Bay Distillery.  An island distillery with rums, gins and vodkas made from sugar cane and rice. We toured the distillery, learned about their process of creating spirits. The tour included a welcome drink and a tasting of 6 rums, 2 gins and 1 vodka. The rums are infused with local herbs like lemongrass, kaffir lime, Thai sweet basil and spices. Their bar mixed cocktails with other local flavors like butterfly pea flower, Thai chili peppers, mango, passion fruit and pineapple. Try the passion fruit mojito, butterfly kiss and devil’s gold. Make a reservation or just show up.

Songkran Festival

Songkran is celebration for Thai New Year held every April. It’s notorious for its energetic country wide water flights. Across the streets of Phuket, people drench each other with water. Strangers shoot water guns in passings on foot and from scooters. Shop keepers pour bowls of ice water on passersby. Groups riding in the backs of trucks and tuk tuks splash water on anyone in sight. People gently smear wet clay on other’s faces as a way of offering a blessing. Wear a swimsuit, embrace the chaos and prepare to get soaked! It feels refreshing under the hot summer sun. 

Why Water?  The significance of the festival started as a way to cleanse oneself at the end of the year and before entering the new one. It’s since evolved into one of the country’s largest and happiest celebrations. The date changes every year as Thailand follows the Lunar Calendar.

Where to Participate.  Celebrations happen all over the island, even on the most unassuming streets. Patong Beach is one of the liveliest areas on the island. The most energetic place is along Thawi Wong Road, Rat Uthit Song Pi Road and any streets in-between, especially the Bangla Walking Street.

Prices.  Water guns are available at stores and from street vendors across the city. Prices range by size: 100 Bhat for small, 200 Bhat for medium and 400 Bhat for large. Phone bags are sold for around 50 Bhat. Water refills cost 10-20 Bhat per person. 

Phi Phi Islands

The Phi Phi Islands are a cluster of islands famed for their verdant and towering rock formations, hidden coves, white sand beaches, aquamarine hued waters, troops of wild monkeys and marine life. 

The Sunrise.  We joined a sunrise tour, visiting three islands during the course of the day. From our boat, we stopped to watch the sunrise above the watery horizon and distant islands in the Andaman Sea. We even spotted a small pod of dolphins swimming 100 meters from the boat. 

Ko Phi Phi Le Island.  A lush and rugged island with picturesque bays, a white sand beach, protected marine reserve and cavernous cave. 

• Maya Bay.  A photogenic bay nestled between the island’s lush cliffs with a large white sand beach and protected marine reserve. We spent an hour here admiring the landscape and enjoying a picnic breakfast comprised of fresh fruits, banana bread and coconut sticky rice wrapped in banana leaves. It’s forbidden to enter the water due to a coral re-growth program happening in the bay. We spotted black tipped reef sharks from shore. 

• Viking Cave.  A cliffside cave home to nesting sea swallows. It’s inaccessible to visitors but viewable from the water in passing. 

• Ao Pi Le Bay.  A hidden bay only accessible during high tide. We came here to swim in its iridescent blue waters as the tide was coming in. 

Ko Phi Phi Don Island.  The largest of the Phi Phi Islands. It’s home to hotels and resorts, white sand beaches, snorkeling coves, turquoise bays and dense tropical forest. 

• Monkey Bay.  A remote corner of the island with troops of wild monkeys. We spotted some climbing on the rocks and tree branches from afar. The monkeys are known to be aggressive so we were advised to keep distance. 

• Ao Lo Dalam Bay.  A large bay on the west side of the island with multiple beaches and snorkeling spots. We snorkeled off shore from Monkey Beach, another location home to wild monkeys. We spotted tropical fish including parrot fish, angelfish, triggerfish and snapper. Sadly most of the corals were bleached. 

• Lo Lana Bay.  A bay on the north side of the island with turquoise waters and snorkeling. Under the surface, we saw iridescent blue clams, tropical fish and mostly dead corals. 

Ko Rang Yai Island.  A small island east of Phuket with a pristine white sand beach overlooking the bight blue waters of the Andaman Sea. We swam and walked along its shores, ordered fresh coconuts from the beach bar and sunbathed under the Thai sun. 

Pro Tip.  Book the sunrise tour! It’s the best way to avoid peak crowds when visiting the Phi Phi Islands. We booked our tour with Simba Sea Trips on Viator. The tour included pick up, drop off, snorkel equipment, breakfast and a Thai buffet lunch. 

Good to Know.  Wear reef safe sunblock! The remaining corals and coral nurseries are under enough stress from above average temperatures. 

Ao Phang Nga National Park

Ao Phang Nga National Park is a protected bay engulfed by breathtaking scenery and hundreds of picturesque islands jutting from the water. The lush islands are home dense mangrove forests, towering rock formations, sheer cliffs, hidden coves, glittering caves, bioluminescent sea life and floating fishing villages. 

Pha Nak Island.  An island with glittering natural wonders including cave formations and bioluminescent marine life. 

• Ice Cream Cave.  A cave tunneling through the limestone island with crystalline rocks, stone columns, dripping stalactites and nubby stalagmites. The cave is named after rock formations that resemble melting ice cream. It leads to a hidden lagoon with milky blue water. 

• Bioluminescent Cove.  A small cove home to bioluminescent algae and comb jellyfish only visible at night. Waves lap onshore creating a glittering array of bright blue and white sparkles throughout the water. It was a truly magical experience! 

Kong Island.  A verdant island with narrow channels and caves leading to hidden lagoons, tree covered chambers and towering rock structures. Guides kayaked us through its passageways, many were only accessible during low tide or so tight that we needed to lay flat to pass through. 

Khao Phing Kan Island (James Bond Island).  An island made famous by the 1974 James Bond film, The Man with the Golden Gun. It features a standalone rock tower rising from the bay, surrounded by islands. The iconic view is visible from a small beach and multiple overlooks. A short trail leads around the island with access to a cliffside cave and a sheer crevice.  

Ko Panyi Island.  A towering island at the top of the bay with a floating stilt village home to a small fishing community. It’s famed for its floating football pitch and mosque topped with golden onion domes. We walked through the village past rustic and colorful homes, saw people weaving fishing traps and watched as long boats returned with freshly caught fish. We enjoyed a Thai buffet dinner overlooking the natural scenery of the bay from Maria Sea View Restaurant. 

Getting Here. The best way to visit Ao Phang Nga National Park is by boat tour. We booked an afternoon tour, well after most other groups had returned for the day. We had the experience of seeing most sights with few other visitors outside of those on our tour. We booked with Discova Thailand on Viator and highly recommended them.

Shop the Markets 

Banzaan Fresh Market.  A large farmer’s market in Patong with aisles of vendors selling locally grown vegetables, fruits and herbs. It’s popular among locals for its large seafood section with freshly caught shellfish like shrimp, prawn and lobster. We shopped here buying all the groceries we needed for the week.

Mae Somchit Kata Fresh Market.  A local farmers market under an open air pavilion with vendors selling fresh vegetables, fruits, seafood, flowers and spices.

Kata Walking Street Market.  A large street food market near the north side of Kata Beach with alleyways and a shed of vendors serving all types of Thai dishes. It’s a popular spot to try freshly caught and affordable seafood like grilled whole fish, squid and lobster. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Coffee Bar Let’s Roll.  A breakfast and brunch spot in Kata with a range of egg dishes, smoothie bowls, baked goods and coffees. 

Griffin House Bar.  A small street side bar in Kata with well made and affordable cocktails. We stopped in for tropical Mai Tais. 

Pots, Pints & Tikis.  A restaurant and bar just steps from the north end of Patong Beach. Their menu includes classic Thai dishes, brick oven pizzas, pastas and burgers. Bartenders mix tropical cocktails and tiki drinks in addition to serving Thai beers. It’s the perfect spot for a mid-afternoon bite or post sunset drink. Come for the buy one get one free happy hour from 5-7pm.

Taodaeng.  A beautiful dessert cafe in Phuket’s Old Town with pastries, tarts and cold caffeinated beverages. We stopped in to escape the heat and sip on Thai Iced Tea with Boba as well as try two tarts decorated in local fruits and edible flowers. 

Ubuntu Vegan Cafe.  A vegan restaurant in Phuket with Mediterranean, Indian and Thai dishes as well a fresh fruit smoothie bowls. 

Thai Cuisine 

Pad Thai.  A world renowned rice noodle dish famed for its tangy and sweet sauce paired with peanuts, scallion, bean sprouts and chili pepper. 

Thai Curry.  Red, green and yellow curries made with a range of hot and savory spices, coconut milk and rice noodles. 

Tom Yum Goong.  A flavorful spicy and sour Thai soup made with lime juice, lemon grass, galangal root, kaffir lime leaves and evaporated milk. It’s often paired with shrimp or prawn. 

Spring Rolls.  Crispy and flaky rolled or deep fried dough filled with veggies and herbs typically served with a sweet and spicy sauce. 

Pineapple Fried Rice.  Stir-fried rice cooked with diced pineapple, umami forward sauces and choice of protein like tofu, chicken or pork.   

Mango Sticky Rice.  A simple and delicious staple of Thai cuisine made from sticky rice paired with freshly sliced mango. The rice is often flavored with sweetened condensed milk or a herbal syrup. 

Thai Iced Tea.  A classic Thai beverage made from brewed black tea and mixed with milk and sugar. It’s often flavored with star anise and cardamom. Try it with boba pearl. 

Thai Rolled Ice Cream.  Cream poured over a chilled surface and aggressively mixed together with toppings, thinly spread and scraped up into small rolls of ice cream. it’s a staple of every street food market with at least one stand offering the cold and flavorful dessert.

Chang Beer.  A national beer, popular across the country. It’s recognizable by two elephants on its label.

Where to Stay

Moonlight House.  A boutique hotel in a teak wooden house on the hill above Patong Beach. We stayed in a private room on the second floor with a balcony and sunset views. It’s was the perfect oasis close to nature and the energy of Patong Beach. Book on Airbnb.

When to Visit 

We visited Phuket and southern Thailand in mid-April. There are some pros and cons to consider.

• Pros. The Songkran Festival (Thai New Year) happens in mid-April. It’s the shoulder season so there are less visitors. It’s peak mango harvesting season. The sweet and tasty fruit is available everywhere.

• Cons. There will be some rainy days. Plan to leave buffer room if tours need to be rescheduled or if beach days get rained out. 

Getting Around 

Phuket Smart Bus (Airport Bus).  An inexpensive public bus with stops between the airport and beach towns of Phuket making stops at Patong, Karon, Kata and Rawai Beaches. Tickets cost 100 Bhat per person. Follow the signs outside of the terminal to the pick up spot.

Grab.  A taxi hailing app similar to Uber or Lyft. Taxis were readily available on the app and cheap to travel around town but significantly more costly to get across the island. 

Good to Know. Grabs here can be very scammy! Drivers try to charge more in cash, come up with excuses why they can’t pick you up & ask you to cancel. Make them cancel, not you. Expect to be paired with 3 or more drivers.

Phuket Patong Public Bus.  A public “bus” operating a singular route between Phuket and Patong. The bus is a large covered flatbed truck with benches on either side. It costs 40 Bhat per person and is by far the cheapest way to get between both cities. The bus leaves every half an hour between 9am and 6pm. The station in Patong is not marked. It’s located on the corner of Sawatdirak Road and Thaweeong Road next to the Barracuda Beach Club. In Phuket, it’s located at the Phuket Town Bus Terminal. 

Elsewhere in Thailand 

We spent over a month in Thailand, experiencing Thai culture, cuisine and nature on our travels between cities, beach and countryside. Explore our other travel guides on this beautiful country. Eat your way through the street food capital of the world, Bangkok. See the Buddhist wats and elephant sanctuaries of Chiang Mai. Relax on the remote shores and hike through the dense jungle of Krabi. 

For Next Time…

Mai Khao Beach Airport Viewpoint.  A beach at the end of Phuket’s airport runway. During certain times of the year, airplanes fly just several meters overhead before touching down on the runway.

Mu Ko Similan National Park & Islands.  A protected marine reserve famed for its underwater marine life and biodiversity. It’s a popular snorkeling and diving destination. 

Visit the Mangroves.  Phuket and the surrounding islands are home to a dense eco system of costal mangroves. During high tide, many of them can be toured by kayak or stand up paddle by guides that know the route. 

Chiang Mai, Thailand

Chiang Mai, Thailand

Chiang Mai is an ancient city in Northern Thailand with crumbling ruins, historic sights, impressive Buddhist wats and access to flowing waterfalls, national parks and elephant sanctuaries. The city has a bohemian vibe to it with night markets, worldly backpackers and vegan restaurants. We spent a week here exploring the city and taking multiple day trips to several cultural and natural sights. 

Chiang Mai Old City

The old city of Chiang Mai is surrounded by a mote and sections of a crumbling red brick wall dating back 700 years. Its winding streets are lined with two floor old wooden houses, ancient Buddhist wats, Thai restaurants, small bars, coffee shops and boutique hotels. Sprawling night markets attract thousands of visitors for their cultural significance, array of street food and locally made goods.

Old City Wall.  The old city is surrounded by a square mote and the ruins of a crumbling brick wall dating back over 700 years. All four corners have rounded defensive towers that were once used to protect the city. On each side are various gates still used today by both pedestrians and vehicles. 

Tha Phae Gate.  The east gate to the Old City. Its wooden doors are flanked by a large red brick wall. It’s a popular photo spot with hundreds of pigeons. It’s the entrance to the Sunday Night Market. It can only be entered on foot. 

Hua Lin Corner.  A defensive corner once home to an ancient aqueduct that channeled water from a natural spring over the mote and into the Old City. It’s located at the northwest corner. 

Buddhist Wats & Temples

Chiang Mai is an ancient Buddhist city with dozens of wats, many dating back over 700 years to the city’s founding. Golden buddhas, wooden meditation halls, towering stupas, dragon staircases and ornate designs are some of the few characteristics that distinguish this city’s wats. 

Wat Chedi Luang Varavihara.  A sacred and ancient temple complex in Chiang Mai’s old city. It’s home to the ruins of a giant brick chedi, the pillar of the city, a buddhist temple and university. 

• The Chedi.  A pyramid style structure made from red bricks with statues of elephants along its first level and shrines with golden Buddhas on top. Its tower was destroyed during an earthquake hundred of years prior. 

• Chiang Mai City Pillar Shrine.  One of the most sacred sights in the Old City. It houses an ornate “pillar” with a gilded statue of the buddha on top. Its interior is adorned in vibrant and colorful stories of the city’s history and temples as well as teaching of the Buddha. 

• Buddhist Chapel.  A large pagoda style hall with an ornately painted red and gold entrance guarded by dragon steps. Inside is a buddhist shine inside, worshipers and seated monks. 

Wat Lok Molee.  A large Lanna style temple made entirely of wood. It’s one of the few surviving structures of its kind to remain from the ancient times. Its entrance is decorated in an ornate black and white design, flanked by stone elephants and dragon steps. Monk novices can often be seen tending to the grounds. Behind it is a Chedi housing the remains of a former Lanna Kingdom ruler. Worshipers come here to make offerings of water. 

Wat Chiang Mun.  An ancient temple complex and the oldest in the Old City with multiple notable structures. 

• Main Chapel.  A pagoda style building with a tiered and layered roof, ornate golden entrance and red accents. It’s a classic example of Lanna style architecture. 

• Secondary Chapel.  A smaller building displaying two tiny statues of the buddha. One made of crystal dating back 2,000 years and one made of marble dating back 2,500 years. 

• Elephant Chedi.  A pyramid shaped chedi with a golden tower and base surrounded by life size stone elephants. 

• Buddhist Library.  A small wooden temple housing buddhist texts built on stilts above a koi pond with a dragon bridge leading to its entrance. 

Wat Phan Tao.  A pagoda style temple made entirely of teak wood. It has a traditional stepped and tiered roof with gold painted cornices and a finely detailed entrance. It’s one of the few surviving structures of its kind to remain from the ancient times. 

Wat Rajamontean.  A newer Buddhist wat in the Old City across the mote from Wat Lot Molee. Its main meditation hall features intricate designs and gold ornamentation. Seated outside is a large statue of the Buddha wearing golden robes. 

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep.  A mountaintop Buddhist wat overlooking the city of Chiang Mai. It’s famous for its 300 step dragon stairway surrounded by forest. The temple is decorated in ornately painted red and golden designs, features multi-tiered roofs, marble floors, statues of the buddha and golden chedi at its center. Its walls depict beautiful paintings of buddhist stories and teachings. The city views were obscured by wildfire smoke when we visited. 

Wat Phra Singh Woramahawihan.  A Lanna style Buddhist wat with a large meditation hall guarded by two golden dragons, ancient wooden temples and multiple bell shaped golden stupas. Ornate patterns, intricate designs and gold leaf cover many of the building’s historic facades. 

Wat Sri Suphan (The Silver Pagoda).  A contemporary Buddhist wat built in the ancient Lanna style from white metals like silver, aluminum and nickel. Every surface is covered in hammered metal tiles and ornamentation. It features classic images and reliefs of Buddhist stories and mythical creatures as well as depictions of maps, international cities, world monuments, human evolution, aliens and ufos. Women are forbidden from entering.

Chiang Mai Markets 

Chiang Mai Gate Market.  An all day market with farm stands in the morning and street food vendors during the afternoon and evenings. We shopped here for groceries, buying fruits, vegetables, herbs, spices, rice and noodles. Merchants pack up by 11am however street food vendors stick around all day. The market comes to life at night with dozens of food carts serving Thai and regional asian cuisine. It’s exceptionally fun to visit on Saturday nights. It’s located at the south gate to the Old City. 

Chiang Mai Night Markets.  The night markets in Chiang Mai are some of the best we’ve been to in Asia for their authentically handmade goods, wide array of street food, affordable prices and overall ambience. They start in the late afternoon and continue until around midnight. 

• Wua Lai Walking Street (Saturday Night Market).  A 1km street with hundreds of vendors selling locally made handicrafts like indigo dyed clothing, elephant figurines, jade jewelry, customizable passport holders, paper fans, lanterns and parasols. Food vendors sell the region’s staple egg noodle soup, Khao Soi and Thai favorites like pineapple fried rice, mango sticky rice and rolled ice cream. Other common dishes such close stir fried rice noodle, pan fried dumplings, grilled skewers with meats, seafood and veggies, boiled crabs, sushi, mochi and fresh coconuts. The street is primary “things” vendors while the wats host street food carts, kitchens and dining areas. 

• Sunday Night Market.  A night market held on Sunday nights along the 1km stretch of road between Wat Phra Singh Woramahawihan and the Tha Phae Gate on Rachadamneon Road. It’s one of the largest and liveliest night markets in Chiang Mai. It hosts many of the same handicrafts and street food vendors as the Saturday Night Market. 

Chiang Rai

Chiang Rai is the ancient capital of the Lanna Kingdom with multiple modern day buddhist temples. We visited three of them on a full day trip here from Chiang Mai. 

Wat Rong Khun (The White Temple).  A contemporary temple complex with several buildings including meditation halls, art galleries and stupas. Most buildings are painted white and accented with contours of mirrored mosaic tiles. The main temple, is the most impressive with its highly ornamented designs and finely detailed embellishments. It’s surrounded by a grassy lawn and koi pond. Within are paintings of the buddha, superheroes, modern day cities and the apocalypse. Photos inside are forbidden. Several other buildings are still undergoing construction, lacking ornamentation while others are fully painted gold. 

Wat Rong Seur Ten (The Blue Temple).  A newly constructed Buddhist temple painted royal blue and painted in gold airbrush ornamentation. Its interior is equally as unique with blue colored surfaces covered in various designs and paintings with a large glossy white statue of the Buddha. Like the white temple, it was designed to be “one of a kind.” 

Wat Sang Kaew Phothiyan (The Light Temple).  A modern day temple with a kaleidoscope of colorful and gilded statues of the Buddha, Buddhist monks, Hindu deities and mythical creatures. Stairways lead around the mostly open air temple with multiple Lanna style structures still under construction. 

Getting Here.  Chaing Rai is located in far northern Thailand about three hours from Chiang Mai. We booked a full day tour here with TripGuru Thailand on Viator. 

Doi Inthanon 

Doi Inthanon is a national park home to royal stupas, hiking trails, waterfalls and the tallest point in Thailand. We visited the park and a local village during a day trip with WanderSiam through Viator. 

The Great Holy Relics Pagodas.  Near the summit of Doi Inthanon are two pagodas dedicated to former king and queen of Thailand. Each bell shaped pagoda is surrounded by colorful flowering gardens with views overlooking the Thai Kingdom. Inside the king’s pagoda is a Buddhist shrine recounting the life and story of the Buddha. Inside the queen’s pagoda is a Buddhist shine containing relics of the Buddha including a hair and items from his time. 

Mae Klang Waterfall.  A large cascading waterfall running down a series of rocky ledges and boulders at the base of Doi Inthanon National Park. A brief trail leads from the parking lot to its viewing point. Adjacent to the parking lot is a bridge over the river and several riverside restaurants with bamboo dining platforms and inner tube rentals. 

Wachirathan Waterfall.  A large waterfall flowing over a steep cliff with a series of small cascading falls and rapids below. Even during the dry season, the waterfall had a strong current creating a cloud of mist. 

The Highest Spot in Thailand.  At the summit of Doi Inthanon National Park is the highest spot in Thailand, measuring  2,565 meters (8,415 feet) above sea level. As this height, the air is substantially cooler and clearer. A small chedi, housing the remains of the last Lanna Kingdom’s ruler. 

Ang Ka Nature Trail.  A boardwalk through the cloud forest near the highest spot in Thailand. The trail passes through a microenvironment with a small peat swamp, moss covered trees, threatened species of birds and plaques warning about the damages of climate change.

Thai Hmong Community Market.  A roadside market with vendors from the Hmong Village selling fresh and candied fruits, baked and fried snacks, roasted nuts, dried teas, pure honey and fruit wine. The hillsides surrounding the village and market are lined with terraced farmland. 

Karen Village.  The Karen people are an ethnic group native to the regions of Myanmar and Northern Thailand. We visited one mountainside village home to about 300 people. We toured their community of wooden and bamboo houses, visited a textile workshop selling handwoven scarves made on backstrap looms and a cafe serving locally grown coffees and teas. On our walk through the village, we saw coffee crops and gardens with dragon fruit, banana, avocado and mulberry trees. 

Buatong Waterfall

Buatong Waterfall cascades down a calcified structure that flows from a natural cold spring down the lush hillside in the middle of the tropical forest. A wooden staircase and boardwalk leads from the top of the waterfall to the bottom level with a natural swimming pool. A rope trail leads up the waterfall allowing visitors to walk up its calcified surfaces. We walked from the third level to the top, gripping onto the course calcified formations as the water rushed past. 

Pro Tip.  Do not try to walk down the waterfall. It’s easiest to walk barefoot and test your footing before taking the following step. Use the ropes for support. 

Getting Here. We took a Songthaew from the Old City to the waterfall for 1,000 Bhat roundtrip. The drive took 1h 15min one way and the driver waited for 1h 30min while we visited. 

Elephant Sanctuaries 

Chiang Mai Elephant Home.  A sanctuary home to rescued and juvenile elephants. The property features farmed grasslands, bamboo and banana trees where the elephants are given time to graze and wander. They cool down in a passing river and cover themselves in mud pools to protect from the sun and insects. The elephants are well treated and supervised by mahouts who manage their care. When given time to rest, they are kept it shaded pavilions and continually fed. One of the most incredible sights was seeing the juvenile elephant breast feed from its mother. We got to feed the elephants sugarcane and bananas, walk alongside them and bathe them in the river. It was a memorable experience getting to interact with these gentile giants and their playful juvenile. Book Online or at their Office in person. 

Ethical Elephant Sanctuaries.  When visiting an elephant sanctuary, there are a few ethical considerations to keep in mind depending on your own views and personal levels of comfort. 

• Ethical sanctuaries are places that take care of elephants, educate visitors about their conservation, don’t cause them harm or profit from their captivity. 

• Avoid fake “sanctuaries” that offer elephant riding.

• Most sanctuaries rescue former riding and work elephants, providing them with a better life than they had before. They’re often domesticated and still respond to trained phrases. 

• The unfortunate truth is that most elephants are likely chained up when visitors are not around to prevent them from escaping. 

• There are few wild elephants remaining in Thailand due to human conflict and loss of their natural habitat. 

• The most ethical sanctuaries minimize human contact by only allowing observation. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Vegan Society Restaurant.  A vegan restaurant in a historic wooden house with an outdoor dining room. Their menu offers Thai dishes like green, red and massaman curries, pad see ew, khao soi, tom yum tofu and mango sticky rice. 

Single Origin Store.  A coffee shop nearby The Phae Gate specializing in high quality coffee beans grown and roasted in Thailand. 

Nophaburi Bar Thai Cocktail.  A hole in the wall cocktail bar with a funky atmosphere and one of a kind drinks. Their cocktails are made with 100 percent Thai spirits, primarily rums and gins, mixed with unique and local ingredients. The menu is sectioned by flavor profiles like spirit forward, fruity and complex & sweet and sour. Try the Manop for something spiced and strong or the La Moon for something fruity and tropical. 

Hardcocktail Bar.  An open air bar with inexpensive drinks including classic and signature cocktails. It’s a popular spot with locals, expats and backpackers. Like many first time patrons, we were lured in by the suggestive name. Try the boozy Long Island or Made in Chiang Mai. 

Lost Hut Cocktail Bar.  A small tiki style dive bar tucked into a corner of the Old City. Come here for their daily 5-9pm happy hour with 100 Bhat mai tais, mojitos and margaritas.

Thai Cuisine 

From regional dishes, to street food and classic meals, Chiang Mai is one of the best places to enjoy Thai cuisine. 

Khao Soi.  A popular egg noodle soup made with coconut broth and flavored with warm spices, Thai chilis, fish sauce and shallots. It originates from Chiang Mai and seen on menus across the city. 

Pad Thai.  A world renowned rice noodle dish famed for its tangy and sweet sauce paired with peanuts, scallion, bean sprouts and chili pepper. 

Pad See Ew.  A noodle dish with exact same flavor profiles as Pad Thai but made with wide rice noodles. 

Thai Curry.  A combination of red, green and yellow curries made with a range of hot and savory spices, coconut milk and rice noodles. 

Tom Yum Goong Nam Kon.  A flavorful spicy and sour Thai soup made with lime juice, lemon grass, galangal root, kaffir lime leaves and evaporated milk. It’s often paired with shrimp or prawn. 

Spring Rolls.  Crispy and flaky rolled or deep fried dough filled with veggies and herbs typically served with a sweet and spicy sauce. 

Pineapple Fried Rice.  Stir-fried rice cooked with diced pineapple, umami forward sauces and choice of protein like tofu, chicken or pork.   

Mango Sticky Rice.  A simple and delicious staple of Thai cuisine made from sticky rice paired with freshly sliced mango. The rice is often flavored with sweetened condensed milk or a herbal syrup. 

Rolled Ice Cream (Thai Ice Cream).  Cream poured over a chilled surface and aggressively mixed together with toppings, thinly spread and scraped up into small rolls of ice cream. 

Thai Iced Tea.  A classic Thai beverage made from brewed black tea and mixed with milk and sugar. It’s often flavored with star anise and cardamom. Try it with boba pearl. 

Chang Beer.  A national beer, popular across the country. It’s recognizable by two elephants on its label.

Getting to Chiang Mai 

The Overnight Train.  The best way to reach Chiang Mai from Bangkok is on the overnight train. We booked second class seats that folded down into bunk beds. They were plenty spacious to store our luggage, comfortable for a full night’s rest, privately curtained off and clean with fresh sheets and pillows. Each car has 38 seats/beds, its own restroom and large windows overlooking the landscape. A cook offers dinner and breakfast service. We ordered fruit, coffee, rice soup and spring rolls for the following morning. 

We booked our tickets online about two weeks in advance with the State Railroad of Thailand departing from Krung Thep Aphiwat Station in Bangkok and arriving at Chiang Mai Station 12 hours later. 

Getting Around 

Songthaew.  A red pickup truck with a covered back and two benches for passengers. They operate as shared and private taxis, bringing locals and tourists around Chiang Mai and to further away destinations. They’re inexpensive with fares costing 30 - 40 Bhat per person to get around the city. The cost for further away destinations varies however it’s cheaper per person depending on the number passengers. They’re easy to find. typically waiting nearby the Old Town gates but can be flagged down anywhere on the street.

• Getting to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. Songthaews cost 500 Bhat roundtrip for two people from the Old City. The trip takes 45min one way. The driver will wait for 1h while you visit. 

• Getting to Buatong Waterfall. Songthaews cost 1,000 Bhat roundtrip for two people from the Old City. The trip takes 1h 15min one way. The driver will wait for 1h 30min while you visit. 

On Foot.  The Old City and surrounding neighborhoods are easily walkable. Getting around on foot is one of the best ways to explore Chiang Mai and find hidden sights. 

By Grab.  Grab is a taxi hailing app used across South East Asia. It’s a good way to get around with luggage both to and from the train station or airport. 

Where to Stay

We stayed at a beautiful studio in the Old City. It had a spacious interior with its own kitchen, living area and a shared outdoor patio. It was the perfect spot to explore the narrow and winding streets, discover cafes, restaurant and cocktail bars, visit the night markets and nearby wats. Book on Airbnb. 

Location Specifics

Dress Modestly.  Visitors are asked to cover the legs and shoulders when visiting most religious sights. If wearing shorts, it’s smart to carry a sarong. 

Footwear.  It’s generally expected that one removes their footwear before entering a Buddhist sight, house or public restroom. Typically slippers are provided for the latter. 

Men Only Sights.  Some wats like the Silver Pagoda and Inthakhin Pillar Vihara do not allow women inside. 

Language.  Thai is the national language of Thailand , however most people know and speak some English. 

Cash Payments.  Cash is the primary method of payment. Very few places accept credit other than debit card.

Drinking Water.  The tap water is generally not safe for consumption. It’s best to boil it first or drink filtered water. 

Traffic.  People drive on the left side of the road in Thailand. Make sure to look both ways when crossing streets. 

Public Smoking & Drinking.  It’s illegal to smoke or drink in most public spaces in Chiang Mai. Signs warning of steep fines and imprisonment remind visitors to obey this law. 

Safety.  Like most places in Thailand and South East Asia, Chiang Mai is a very safe destination to visit with little crime. Occasional signs at sights will warn visitors of pick pocketers. 

Fire & Smoke Season

From March through April, northern Thailand suffers extreme heat and dry weather. A mixture of forest fires and slash and burn farming indicate the region in a thick haze of smoke, often reaching very unhealthy and hazardous levels. As a preventative measure, the state closes access to many national parks, campgrounds, hiking trails and access to waterfalls. We continually tracked the air quality on IQ Air, minimizing our exposure when possible. 

Elsewhere in Thailand 

We spent over a month in Thailand, experiencing Thai culture, cuisine and nature on our travels between cities, beach and countryside. Explore our other travel guides on this beautiful country. Eat your way through the street food capital of the world, Bangkok. Experience the party scene and beaches of Phuket. Relax on the remote shores and hike through the dense jungle of Krabi. 

For Next Time…

Doi Suthep-Pui National Park.  A mountainous national park with hiking trails, campgrounds and waterfalls just outside of Chiang Mai. We had planned to hike the 2 hour trail from Wat Phra That Doi Suthep to the Sai Yoi and Montha Than Waterfalls but were turned around. Most of the park was closed due to the extreme risk of wildfires. 

Long Neck Village.  On the boarder of Northern Thailand and Myanmar are villages where women are known to wear stacks of metal rings around their necks. The rings, added over time elongate the wearer’s neck by lowering their rib cage. It’s a beauty practice that’s very specific to the women of this region and something we hope to see on our next trip to the region.

Bangkok, Thailand

A Bustling Metropolis 

Bangkok is a bustling metropolis at the heart of Thailand. It’s a place renowned for its street food scene, sprawling night markets and vibrant nightlife. Tuk tuks race through traffic past towering glass skyscrapers, ornate temples and historic wats. Gilded statues of giant buddhas watch over onlookers with a calming gaze. An opulent royal palace and historic museums house important aspects of Thai culture. The city is a branching off point for cultural sights in the north of the country and beaches in the south. We spent over a week here, exploring the impressive sights all across the city and outside of it, feasting on street food almost daily and ending our evenings sipping on flavorful drinks at cocktail bars. 

Temples, Wats & Palaces 

The Thai Royal Palace.  An opulent palace truly fit for royalty and the home to the Thai monarchy. The palace is divided into two viewable sections, The Temple of The Emerald Buddha and The Grand Palace.

The Temple of The Emerald Buddha.  A royal complex with Buddhist wats, temples, throne halls, royal stupas and elaborate sculptures. It’s one of the most opulently designed places on the royal grounds. The structures and statues are adorned in a kaleidoscope of vibrant colors, a glittering mosaic of reflective tiles, gilded surfaces, hand painted images, dimensional patterns and Khmer style roofs layered with colorful tiles and golden cornices. Marble staircases and red carpeted walkways lead around the grounds past sculpted trees and covered corridors. At its center is the main temple with a statue of the Buddha sculpted from solid emerald. 

The Grand Palace.  One of the largest complexes of the palace with the royal residence and offices, a library and multiple throne rooms. It’s not as opulent as The Temple of the Emerald Buddha but no less grand. The structures have a white neoclassical facade with golden window frames designed in the style of conical stupas. The Khmer style roofs are heavily layered in multi-colored tiles with gilded towers and ornate cornices. The spacious courtyards are landscaped with verdant lawns, sculpted trees, tiled planters with lotus flowers and bronze lamp posts. 

Tips for Visiting The Royal Palace:

• The Royal Palace is one of the most popular sights to see in Bangkok and often packed with thousands of visitors and tour groups at all times of the day. 

• The hours can differ daily due to the palace still being actively used by Thailand royalty. It closed at noon on the day we visited for a royal event.

• The best time to visit is on a very sunny day to truly appreciate the reflective and gilded surfaces shimmering under the sun. 

Wat Pho.  A royal Buddhist temple famed for its giant reclined golden Buddha. The statue measures 150 long and is housed in a grand hall decorated in richly colored floral patterns and scenes of Buddhist legends. The wat is home to numerous structures including Khmer style temples, various sized stupas covered in ornate three dimensional tiles and a hall with Thailand’s largest collection of golden buddhas. Come here to meditate, bang one of the giant metal gongs or apply a gold leaf stamp to a statue of Buddha. 

Wat Arun.  A Buddhist temple complex along the Chao Phraya River famed for its towering stupa. The faceted structure is covered in a mosaic of hand painted tiles, floral patterns, dimensional designs and flexing deities. Stairs lead to its second level where shrines dedicated to Buddha are housed. Many local couples rent traditional outfits and come here for photoshoots, providing the wat with an old world feeling and a romantic atmosphere. 

Big Golden Buddha.  A 69 meter tall seated golden Buddha along the Khlong Canal. Unknown to us before visiting, the Buddha was mostly covered in scaffolding for restoration. Work was supposedly completed a month later. At the time, all that was visible was his golden head. We visited to the Photo Spot for the Big Buddha with views of it, canal and wat. It’s free to visit however visitors can pay to pose in a longboat docked along the canal. It’s a common sight on long boat canal tours of the city 

The Golden Mount.  A wat on a man made hill with a large golden bell shaped stupa at its peak. Bells, gongs and wind chimes line the stairway leading to its observation deck with panoramic views of the entire city and skyline. The hill is landscaped with lush gardens, misting streams and tiny waterfalls. The surrounding neighborhood is  defined by Khmer style mansions and houses, each with decorative facades, layered tiled roofs and gold ornamentation. 

Wat Sam Phram.  A pink cylindrical tower with a blue and green tiled dragon coiled around it. On the second floor, we entered the body of the dragon and ascended up the spiraled ramp, through the “levels of heaven.” At the top of the temple, we visited several Buddhist shrines and spoke with friendly monks. They told us stories of Buddhist legends, the temple’s origins and how to best experience it. We bought a loop of marigolds from them as an offering and pet the dragon’s beard for good luck. The temple is a modern but nonetheless fascinating. On its grounds is a separate statue of a large golden Buddha seated upon a lotus leaf.  The temple is located an hour outside of Bangkok and reachable by Grab for around 400 Bhat. Given its distant location, there were few visitors outside of the monks living here.

The Ancient City

The Ancient City is a large outdoor museum and historical theme park with reproductions of Thailand’s most important wats, temples and sights including those that have long been lost to history. 

Semeru Mountain.  An island temple surrounded by a giant koi fish, reachable along a winding yellow bridge. The wooden temple is ornately carved with finely painted sculptures of Hindu deities and peacocks. 

Sanphet Prasat Palace, Ayutthaya.  A grand reconstruction of the Thai Imperial Palace lost to history. The large white building had a multi tiered black tiled Khmer style roof. It’s forbidden to take photos within its gilded interior displaying royal statues and garments. The surrounding grounds are landscaped with lily ponds, small streams, sculpted trees and elephant shaped fountains. 

Dusit Maha Prasat Palace.  A reproduction of royal palace with four wings decorated in elaborate handprinted murals of battles, legends and royal coronations. features inside is an emerald Buddha. It’s exterior is similar to other royal palaces with a white facade, gold ornamentation an a multi-tiered Khmer style roof. 

The Scripture Repository.  A small but beautiful stilted pagoda above a pond with giant lily pads.

Mondop Thep Bidorn.  A white temple with an intricate roof and pyramid like stupa. 

Rainbow Bridge.  A photogenic bow shaped bridge over a canal painted like a rainbow. 

Sala of Ramayana.  A temple with multiple mauve and emerald green pavilions connected by a series of zig zagging boardwalks over a large pond dedicated to a Hindu deity. 

The Footprint of the Lord Buddha, Saraburi.  A tall golden temple prominently placed on a stepped white platform guarded by a mythical seven headed snake. The temple is covered in a mosaic of reflective, gold and colorful tiles. Inside, a series of mirrors reflect the golden interior into infinity. 

Pavilion of the Enlightened.  A series of gold painted pagodas and pavilions connected by a network of overwater boardwalks. We visited the “fat Buddha,” a golden statue of the big bellied and laughing buddha. 

Buddha of the Substancesless Universe.  A modern Buddhist temple and one of the most opulent in all of Thailand. Its facade is completely covered in reflective gold tiles of the buddha, with an orange tiered roof and towering gold spire at its center. Inside is a hall with over two dozen seated golden Buddhas. Its surrounding grounds and are home to smaller temples, golden stupas and landscaped gardens. 

The Floating Market.  A network of wooden structures with shops, cafes and street food vendors connected by boardwalks and bridges. At the time, most of the shops were vacant, giving the market an eerie and abandoned feeling. We stopped at one cafe for Thai iced tea. 

The Old Market Town.  A reproduction of a traditional town with wooden houses, tea rooms, historic exhibits and small shops. 

Tips for Visiting The Ancient City:

• Getting Here.  It’s located about an hour outside of Bangkok and easily reachable by Grab. Grab’s are readily available to return to the city. 

• Getting Around.  The park has 22km of roads. We rented bikes in the park, stopping at anything that caught our eye. There are golf cart rentals and a free shuttle that visits the most prominent sights. 

• Tickets.  Buy tickets online to pay half the price offered at admission. 

• Free Zone.  There is a zone before the official park entrance that can be visited for free without a ticket. It includes several small temples, monuments and sights. The most noteworthy are the Temple of Buddha of the Substancesless Universe, The Scripture Repository and The Old Market Town. 

• Avoid the Elephant Tourism.  The park keeps multiple elephants. Unfortunately they didn’t seem to be cared for properly. One was chained up and surrounded by a tour bus worth of visitors posing for photos on the elephant’s back. 

Visit the Museums

National Museum Bangkok.  A collection of buildings and exhibits housing royal and early Thai artifacts on the grounds of the country’s former royal palace.

• Ishra Vinijaya Throne Hall.  A former throne hall featuring past royal thrones, royal puppets and musical instruments, household items, ceramics and furniture. 

• Hangar of Thai Royal Funeral Chariot.  A garage displaying several gilded and elaborately designed royal chariots from past royal funerals. Some date back nearly 300 years. 

• Buddhaisawan Hall.  A temple with elaborate painting of Buddhist stories and legends. Its golden Buddha was hidden from view for restoration. 

• Maha Surasinghanat Building & Praphat Phiphithaphan Building.  Two exhibit halls with galleries displaying early artifacts and maps from Thailand’s history including stone, bronze and ivory buddhas, statues and stelae.

Royal Barges National Museum.  A waterfront museum housing several Thai royal barges used during ceremonies, coronations and funerals. Most have a red body, pedestal for the monarch and dozens of seats for rowers. The vessels are decorated in ornate gold paintings, jeweled mosaics and headed with a figures of a mythical creatures like dragons and deities. Remnants of the oldest barges date back nearly 300 years, however the oldest were destroyed during wartime.

Neighborhoods & Streets

Silom.  A central neighborhood with night markets, street food vendors and modern skyscrapers. It’s a hub for LGBTQ+ community with a welcoming atmosphere and popular alley with gay bars and clubs. 

Silom 4 Alley.  An alleyway in Silom lined with gay bars serving boozy cocktails, nightly drag shows and lady boy dance performances. The alley gets busy after 9pm and the nightlife continuing into the early morning hours. We sat outside at BAS Living Room sipping on classic and signature cocktails like a Long Island iced tea and passion fruit gin & tonic.  

Chinatown.  A vast neighborhood with bustling night markets, the city’s highest density of street food vendors, roads lined with tall vertical signs inscribed with Chinese lettering, red paper lanterns and gold jewelry shops. 

Phra Nakhon District. A neighborhood with some of the city’s most important Buddhist wats, cultural and historic museums, the Thai Royal Palace and government buildings. 

Khao San Road.  A popular nightlife street and tourist trap with souvenir shops, overpriced bars, weed stores and backpacker hostels. Vendors sell roasted insects and display whole grilled alligators for the adventurous eaters. Go elsewhere for a more local and authentic atmosphere.

Sri Ram Buttri Road.  A smaller nightlife street popular with locals and tourists lined with cute bars, vibey patios, massage studios, flowering trees and good prices. We sat down along the street at Wang’s Bar, ordering two drinks and getting the third one free. It’s a better alternative to the nearby Khao Son Road.

See the Sights 

Maha Nakhon Tower.  One of Bangkok’s most iconic high-rises. It’s recognizable by its fragmented and spiraling blue glass facade that looks as if it’s a video game or matrix glitch.  We visited the Parlor Bar in on the fourth floor for happy hour cocktails. 

Asiatique Park.  An outdoor riverfront mall and entertainment complex with Thailand’s largest ferris wheel, sight seeing boat routes, a Calypso Cabaret theater, street food vendors, restaurants, clothing shops and various stores with Thai goods. It’s a popular spot amongst both locals and tourists. 

Lumphini Park.  A lush city park with treelined paths, paddle boat rentals, small lakes and interconnected waterways home to giant water monitors. We spotted several of them swimming as well as jet black ravens bathing and white ibises hunting for fish. 

Benchakitti Park.  A manmade nature reserve in the middle of Bangkok with micro ecosystems representing what the landscaped used to look like before urbanization. The park features a series of wet lands with endemic species of fish, birds, plants and trees all connected by a maze of zig zagging trails and an elevated boardwalk. It’s a tranquil escape from the chaos of the city and wonderful place to reconnect with nature, bird watch and exercise. 

Chao Phraya River  

The Chao Phraya River snakes through Bangkok passing several important sights and neighborhoods. There are multiple ferry lines that shuttle passengers up and down the river to various stops along the way. It was one of the best ways to see the city and get around. 

• Chao Phraya Tourist Boat.  A two level ferry that slowly navigates along the river with an audio guide pointing out some of the riverfront’s main sights. It’s an affordable alternative to the expensive boat tours. One way tickets cost less than $3 USD with boats leaving every 15-30min. 

• Chao Phraya Express Boat (Yellow Flag).  A covered long boat with that quickly navigates between stops along the river. One way tickets cost less than $1USD with boats leaving every 15min. 

• Long Boat Ferry.  There are several ferries that shuttle passengers across the river for 5 Bhat (less than 2 cents). It’s the perfect way to get to the other side of the river when exploring on foot. We took the ferry across between the Khlong San Pier and Si Phraya Ferry Pier as well as Tah Tian (Royal Palace) and Wat Arun.

Shop the Markets 

Patpong Night Market.  A night market with street food vendors selling grilled skewers, fried seafood, Thai noodles, rice dishes, spring rolls, papaya salad and cheap beers. We dined here twice, sampling dishes from several vendors. Our favorite bites were the barbecued squid and Tom Yum Goong Nam Khon, a creamy and spicy shrimp soup. There is a central dining space with plastic tables and chairs to sit down and enjoy. The market continues beyond the street food sections the vendors selling knockoff hand bags, shoes and watches. It’s a good spot to haggle for bohemian pants, t-shirts, jewelry and miscellaneous accessories. 

Pro Tip.  Haggle for goods, it’s part of the game. Never accept the first price. Offer half and start walking away when the vendor rejects. Soon after, they’ll agree to your price. 

Chinatown Night Market.  Come twilight, as the city lights and neon signs begin to illuminate the city, Yaowarat Road in Chinatown becomes the epicenter of Bangkok’s street food scene and Thai cuisine. Hundreds vendors set up mobile kitchens and carts, grilling, frying, sautéing, boiling and steaming all manner of the city’s famed street food. We went on a street food crawl tasting our way through the market. We feasted on assorted dumplings filled with scallion, radish and mung bean paste. Next up was sautéed squid and cabbage drenched with a spicy fish sauce. Afterwards, crispy fish cakes with spicy braised cucumbers. Then deep fried veggie gyoza and bao buns grilled with butter. For dessert, assorted pastries filled with sesame, red bean and durian paste

Chinatown Market Chaloem Buri.   A street food market in a Chinatown plaza with tents of vendors, live music and a central dining area. It’s less chaotic and more elevated than the Chinatown Night Market. Vendors serve dishes like alligator nuggets, whole roasted ducks, freshly grilled lobster, stuffed dumplings, buns, spring rolls and local beers. 

Yaowarat Old Market.  A covered market street in Chinatown with hundreds of shops selling all types of merchandise including clothing, toys, tech accessories, kitchenware, jewelry and street food. Many locals come here to shop and pass through the narrow passageway on vespas. 

Restaurants & Cafes 

Nuaniyom.  A Thai restaurant with all types of national dishes including a range of Pad Thais, papaya salads, Thai curries and Thai iced teas. Even before ordering, the number of locals dining here and lack of English speaking waiters assured us we’re in for a treat. We came here for our first Pad Thai in Thailand and were not disappointed! 

Somsak Puob.  A street food vendor famed for their seafood dishes like roe crab, blood cockle and prawns. A tray of live crabs sits on display awaiting to be cooked in the street side kitchen. We ordered the juicy and tender roe crab, cooked in a hot pot with butter, garlic, scallions, glass noodles and a pate of the crab roe served in a shell. They were awarded a Michelin Bib, the equivalent of a Michelin Star for street food vendors. 

Lynx House Cafe.  A cafe near the Giant Golden Buddha with bold coffee, uniquely flavored signature drinks, artisan desserts and pastries. Try the iced latte with orange blossom water and soda. 

Kaze Coffee.  A cafe with strong Thai coffees and specialty drinks. We stopped in to escape the afternoon heat and for our midday caffeine fix.

Chana Bubble Tea.  A small mall cafe coffees, teas and boba. We came here for Thai iced teas with boba (aka bubble tea).

Cocktail Bars

In all large cities, we love to bar hop during our stay, visiting at least one cocktail bar a night. Bangkok was no exception! We visited rooftops, gay bars, an oceanfront terrace a “speakeasy” and enjoyed our share of happy hours. 

Palate Rooftop.  A rooftop bar with views of the elevated metro trains, nearby wats, vibrant streets and a bustling night market. We came for happy hour, having some of best priced drinks we found in Bangkok, sticking around afterwards for cocktails from their signature menu. Unlike most Bangkok rooftops, this one is not high end. It’s lesser known and located on the fifth floor past a series of maze like stairs.

White Rabbit Bar.  A gay bar with well made cocktails and highly live singers. We sat outside in the warm summer air beneath the elevated train, people watching as we sipped on fruity and bitter cocktails garnished with flowers. 

Tropic City.  A tropical themed bar with boozy and beachy cocktails continually rated as one of the top 50 bars in Asia. It’s hidden in a Chinatown alleyway but immediately transported us to a tropical destination with its colorful and moody lights, palm thatched decor and jungleous wallpaper. Order the “Welcome to the Jungle” or a classic piña colada. 

The Parlor.  A cocktail bar on the 4th floor of The Standard Hotel in the Maha Nakhon Tower. We came for their well priced happy hour with Aperol spritzes, gin and tonics and margaritas. The lovely atmosphere during sunset on their outdoor terrace made for calm and memorable final night in Bangkok. 

Vol de Nuit The Hidden Bar.  A cocktail bar in a garden speakeasy behind an art gallery with pop art painted sculptures of sumo wrestlers, animals and anime characters. The garden is colorfully lit with a beautiful koi pond at its center. Try one of citric and fruity signature cocktails like Summer Time and Unforgettable, perfect for a warm Bangkok night. 

Wang’s Bar.  A vibey street side cocktail bar on Sri Ram Buttri Road with inexpensive and classic cocktails. We stopped in for their buy two get one free happy hour and left feeling quite happy. Try the Mai Tai, gin & tonic or Long Island iced tea. 

Sunspirit.  A high end waterfront cocktail bar and restaurant on the Gulf of Thailand nearby the Ancient City. We came here in the late afternoon for drinks while overlooking the water and watching the container ships pass by.

Thai Cuisine 

Thai cuisine is delicious combination of sweet, spicy, fresh and savory flavors. We tried a few favorites at restaurant, night markets and in our Airbnb’s kitchen. 

Pad Thai.  A world renowned rice noodle dish famed for its tangy and sweet sauce paired with peanuts, scallion, bean sprouts and chili pepper. 

Tom Yum Goong Nam Kon.  A flavorful spicy and sour Thai soup made with lime juice, lemon grass, galangal root, kaffir lime leaves and evaporated milk. It’s often paired with shrimp or prawn. 

Spring Rolls.  Crispy and flaky rolled or deep fried dough filled with veggies and herbs typically served with a sweet and spicy sauce. 

Thai Curry.  Red, green and yellow curries made with a range of hot and savory spices, coconut milk and rice noodles. 

Papaya Salad.  A thai salad made from thinly spiced pieces of green papaya marinated and mixed with lime juice, garlic, chilies, fish sauce, palm sugar and peanuts. 

Basil Rice with Shrimp.  A stir fried rice dish cooked with Thai basil, shrimp, chili and garlic. 

Thai Iced Tea.  A classic Thai beverage made from brewed black tea and mixed with milk and sugar. It’s often flavored with star anise and cardamom. Try it with boba pearl. 

Mango Sticky Rice.  A simple and delicious staple of Thai cuisine made from sticky rice paired with freshly sliced mango. The rice is often flavored with sweetened condensed milk or a herbal syrup.

Chang Beer.  A national beer, popular across the country. It’s recognizable by two elephants on its label.

LGBTQ+ Safety

Thailand is one of the friendliest LGBTQ+ in Asia with legalized same sex marriage, protections against discrimination and an overall accepting population. Upon arrival into Thailand, each immigration booth featured sticker of the progress flag in a heart with LGBTQ+ written across it. It was a very welcoming sight upon entry to a foreign country. 

Location Specifics

Driving.  People drive on the left side of the road. Remember to look both ways when crossing the road. 

Expenses.  Bangkok is pricier than other places in South East Asia. Luckily, spending money on street food at happy hours helped us spend less. 

Language. Thai is the national language. Most people speak a little English. 

Cash vs Card.  Cash is accepted everywhere and the preferred method of payment. Many restaurants, businesses and sights didn’t accept credit card. 

Safety.  We felt safe throughout Bangkok but were continually warned about pickpocketing and scammers. 

Modesty.  Wearing long pants and covering shoulders is required when entering most wats and temples, including the royal palace.

Food Poisoning.  While street food is delicious, cheap and a local way of experiencing Thai culture and cuisine, it comes with risks of food poisoning. Bring travel medication for food poisoning just incase the worse case should happen. 

Getting Around 

Grab.  A taxi app is readily available throughout Bangkok. Rides across the city typically cost about $5 USD. Rides to/from the airport cost around $12 USD.

Tuk Tuk.  Souped up three wheeled taxis are common across the city with regularly drivers offering rides. We found tuk tuks to be more costly than Grabs. 

Metro.  Bangkok has a very modern metro system with elevated rails crossing the city. It’s a cheap and effort way to get around like a local. 

Elsewhere in Thailand 

We spent over a month in Thailand, experiencing Thai culture, cuisine and nature on our travels between cities, beach and countryside. Explore our other travel guides on this beautiful country. See the Buddhist wats and elephant sanctuaries of Chiang Mai. Experience the party scene and beaches of Phuket. Relax on the remote shores and hike through the dense jungle of Krabi.

For Next Time…

Bangkok is a massive city! Even with a week here, we didn’t get to see and do everything we had on our list. When we return, we have several things top of mind inside and outside of the city. 

Ayutthaya Old City Ruins.  A sprawling complex with ancient wats, temples, palaces and ruins in the city of Ayutthaya.

Phra Prang Sam Yot.  An Angkor Wat style temple with three stone stupas and families of wild monkeys. It’s also located in Ayutthaya. 

Floating Markets.  Riverside markets with canoes of vendors selling produce, souvenirs and miscellaneous goods to customers waiting on docks

Bangkok Weekend Market.  The city’s largest market, only held on Saturday and Sunday with hundreds of vendors selling goods and street food. 

Dragon Descendants Museum.  A giant dragon shaped museum dedicated to Chinese history throughout the region. 

Sunflower Fields.  From mid-November to early January, sunflower farms bloom into fields of yellow. There are several sunflower fields north of the city. 

Chet Sao Noi National Park.  A national park with a seven tiered waterfalls. 

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Phnom Penh is the capital city of Cambodia. It’s a cultural destination with Khmer style architecture, gilded temples, a lavish royal palace, sprawling markets, countless tuk tuks and museums recounting the country’s storied past. Built along the banks of the Mekong & Tonle Sap Rivers, it’s an emerging hub for city life with a rapidly expanding skyline and bustling atmosphere both day and night that attracts Cambodians and travelers from all over the world. We stayed in Phnom Penh for just under a week, exploring its many sights, enjoying its exotic food scene and learning about the country’s rich history. 

The Royal Palace

Cambodia’s Royal Palace is an exquisite combination of buildings including the royal residence, throne hall, ceremonial pavilions, buddhist temples and elaborate stupas. The grounds are comprised of manicured lawns, flowering gardens and sculpted trees. 

Moonlight Pavilion. A Khmer style pavilion and gate to The Royal Palace used for royal banquets and ceremonies. It’s best viewed from the Royal Palace Park in the morning light. 

Throne Hall.  One of the grandest structures on the royal grounds. The opulent hall boasts stone columns, golden lamps, a silk carpet, crystal chandeliers and a royal throne sitting underneath a golden pagoda. It can only be viewed from the outside and photos are prohibited. 

Hor Samritpimean.  A Khmer style house with an exhibit featuring royal ceremonial outfits, coronation regalia and ancient artifacts. 

Napoleon III Pavillon.  A cast-iron French style house with stained glass windows and a small clock tower. It was gifted to Cambodia by Napoleon III.

Dancing Hall.  An open air pavilion used for royal dances, celebrations and to host guests. 

The Silver Pagoda.  A walled area of the Royal Palace containing several temples, stupas and monuments 

Temple of the Emerald Buddha.  An ornate temple at the center of the Silver Pagoda housing several statues of Buddha made of emerald, gold and encrusted in jewels. The floor is inlaid with silver tiles and the walls painted in elaborate murals. Photos of the interior are prohibited. 

The Royal Stupas.  The royal stupas are elaborate cone shaped white stone and gold plated structures containing the remains of deceased royalty. 

Gallery of the Ramayana Frescos.  An open air hallway encompasses the walled area of the Silver Pagoda. On its walls are detailed and colorfully painted frescos of the Ramayana. They recount the Indian epic of the Ramayana

Temples and Wats

Wat Ounalom Monastery.  One of the five original Buddhist temples in Phnom Penh dating back to 13th century. Dozens of newer structures have been added to it over the years since. Its oldest temple is believed to house an eyebrow hair of the Buddha. Within the monastery’s terracotta walls are temples and meditation halls with Khmer style roofs, statues of Buddha, a golden pagoda and gilded stupa and a cemetery with smaller stupas. Around the monastery we saw Buddhist monks dressed in orange robes mediating, wandering the grounds and gardening. 

Wat Phnom Daun Penh.  A Buddhist temple dedicated to Lady Penh and the legend surrounding her. It’s one of the most important sights in the capital. The temple stands on a hill surrounded by a peaceful city park. It features a large white stupa and a beautiful pagoda. Its interior walls, ceiling and columns are painted in colorful scenes of the Buddha’s previous lives. The temple houses statues of Buddha and Vishnu that legend says Lady Penh discovered inside a tree floating down the Mekong River. The trees in the park are home to a colony of giant bats known as flying foxes. We watched them sway in the trees, crawl along branches and occasionally take flight. There is a $1 USD entry fee to the park and temple.

Wat Langka.  One of the original five Buddhist temples of Phnom Penh with pagodas and stupas. We visited in the late afternoon and were the only ones here except for a friendly monk gardening. It was very peaceful and meditative to walk around and admire. 

Visit the Museums 

National Museum of Cambodia.  A fully red colored Khmer style building housing historical artifacts from across Cambodia. The museums exhibits ancient bronzes, relics from temples, stone sculptures of Hindu gods, Buddha, Khmer royalty and warriors, stolen and recovered objects. At the center of the museum in an outdoor courtyard with koi ponds and walkways to admired the museum’s design. 

SOSORO - Preah Srey Museum.  A museum dedicated to the role of currency throughout Cambodia’s history from ancient times to modern day. It displays maps, historical records and precious coins from ancient Cambodia and the Khmer Empire. No photos are allowed to be taken inside. 

Genocide Museum.  Cambodia is a beautiful country that underwent a very dark and tragic past not so long ago. The Khmer Rouge came to power and forcibly displaced, starved, tortured and killed millions of Cambodians throughout the mid to late 1970s. The museum is one of the former prisons used to carry out the atrocities. We listed to the audio guide as we solemnly toured the museum and its former cells. Throughout the cells are thousands of photos of those imprisoned on its grounds, graphic accounts of what happened here and human remains. 

See the Parks & Monuments 

Royal Palace Park.  A park in front of the Royal Palace with views of its grand gate. It’s a popular evening spot where Buddhist monks gather, families relax and people feed pigeons. 

Wat Botum Park.  A park lined with grassy lawns, fountains, Cambodian monuments and public plazas. It leads from the Royal Palace to the Independence Garden. 

Independence Garden.  A grassy park in the middle of one of Phnom Penh’s main roads with multiple monuments including a statue of the King of Cambodia and a red fountain featuring a seven headed snake deity. 

Independence Monument.  A red stone stupa in the middle of a roundabout at the end of the Independence Garden commemorating Cambodia’s indecencies from France.  

Sisowath Riverside Park.  A palm lined promenade along the banks of the Tonle Sap River. It’s a popular spot to walk at night  with boat captains selling sightseeing tours and street food vendors. The road across from the park is a popular spot for nightlife with restaurants, bars and clubs. 

Yeay Penh Statue.  A small white monument with ornate Khmer designs housing a bronze statue of Yeay Penh, the founder of the city. 

Shop the Markets 

The Central Market.  Recognizable by its pale yellow color, art deco windows, large dome and four halls extending from it. Inside, vendors sell all manner of goods including fruits, vegetables, herbs, meats, live seafood and chickens, coffee, clothing, shoes, jewelry, cookware and toys. It’s a place where locals come to shop while welcoming tourists and travelers. Make sure to bring cash and plan to haggle. 

We shopped for groceries, buying local ingredients like banana blossom, tofu, bean sprouts, rice noodles, dragonfruit, bitter melon, lily stems, kampot pepper and coconut milk. Our favorite area of the market are the street food stalls. Cooks served all types of noodle dishes, grilled seafoods, steamed dumpling and fried insects, including tarantula! We ordered a bowl of Nom Banh Chok, a coconut curry with rice noodles and veggies.

The Old Market.  A large market with narrow aisles of vendors selling all types of merchandise, fruits, vegetables, meats, seafood, souvenirs, meals and street food. Many locals come here for various services like haircuts and manicures. 

Phnom Penh Night Market.  Night markets are a staple of most Asian cities and come to life after dark. The Phnom Penh Night Market is no different. Vendors set up selling clothes, shoes, jewelry, accessories and toys. In the center of it all is a karaoke stage where people muster up the courage to sing out in front of the masses. 

One of the best reasons to come here is for the street food! Dozens of food carts surround a plaza blanketed in colorful carpets and cushions. Each vendor sells a vibrant display of fried and barbecued skewers, spring and summer rolls, dumplings, rice and noodle dishes. The food is extremely inexpensive and a fun way to try Cambodian cuisine. We ordered several veggie and seafood skewers then chose a carpeted spot to enjoy dinner. 

Things to Do

Take a Sunset River Cruise.  We took a sunset river cruise down the Mekong & Tonle Sap Rivers. The 90 minute tour included a 40min narration of sights and unlimited local beers! We watched the sun set over the city behind the rapidly growing skyline and golden roofs of Buddhist temples. Along the way, we passed the “meeting waters” where the brown water of the Tonle Sap River and the deep blue water of the Mekong River meet. We boated past a small fishing village made from a colorful cluster of stilt houses and saw fishermen returning with nets full of the days catch. We booked our tour ahead of time however it’s not necessary. Boat operators sell tickets for as little as $5 along the riverside park. Reserve here.

Explore the Old French Quarter.  A small neighborhood with historic buildings constructed during France’s colonization of Cambodia. The buildings are in various conditions, painted yellow with olive or blue wooden window shutters and clay tiled roofs. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Kravanh Restaurant.  A high end restaurant serving a range of traditional Cambodian dishes. We dined in the romantic outdoor courtyard along a colonial house our first night in Phnom Penh. We shared three plates.

• Meang Kham.A platter of Cambodian flavors made from a dozen fixings including dried shrimp, toasted coconut, crispy shallots, diced chilies and sliced limes displayed on rolling leaves. The leaves are folded into a scoop and filled with any combination of fixings, dolloped with spicy tamarind shrimp sauce and eaten whole.

• Fish Amok.  Cambodia’s national dish, dating back to the Khmer Empire. It’s made from freshwater fish wrapped in a cup of banana leaves steamed in coconut milk and curry. 

• Snake Fish Ceviche.  A ceviche made with marinated snake fish prepared alongside galangal, banana blossom, bean sprouts and crispy shallots. 

Elephant Bar.  An elevated bar at the Raffles Hotel with a gin forward menu and a range of signature and classic cocktails. The bar is a beautiful place for a drink with a vaulted ceiling decorated in paintings of elephants, a dark wooden bar, leather lounges and tropical plants. The prices are outrageous for Cambodia. Come after 4pm for their 40% off happy hour!

• Signature G&Ts.  A shortlist of gin and tonics made with local gins, classic ingredients and artisan tonic water. 

• Kampot Pepper.  A cocktail made with local gin, cucumber, soda water and kampot peppers. 

• Phnom Penh Sling.  A twist on the Singapore Sling made with house gin, lychee liqueur and guava juice.

SORA.  An elevated “sky bar” on the 47th floor of the Rosewood Tower. We sat on the outdoor terrace, sipping on cocktails as the sun set and the city lights turned on. The interior has a very well designed bar, restaurant and cigar lounge. Order from the Anime themed cocktail menu!

Cafe Chiet.  A beautiful cafe with a natural ambience enhanced by bamboo walls, wooden furniture, tropical plants and stone floors. The baristas prepare a range of coffees and teas served in golden chalices. 

Duo Cafe.  A small cafe with iced drinks like coconut coffee, matcha lattes and Cambodian coffee. 

Cambodian Cuisine 

Cambodian cuisine has a range of unique flavors including bitter vegetables, savory sauces, spicy peppers and fresh seafood. In addition to the dishes we tried at restaurants and markets, we cooked a few in our own kitchen.

• Lok Lak.  A dish made with marinated beef or tofu, onions and garlic caramelized in a palm sugar and fish sauce glaze. It’s served with rice. 

• Trey Khor.  A very traditional Cambodian dish made with a filet of fatty trout cooked and marinated overnight in a sweet and savory sauce comprised of palm sugar, soy sauce, minced garlic and ginger.

• Bobor.  Essentially rice porridge or congee but made with broth instead of water and garnished with Cambodian ingredients like cilantro, lotus stems, chili peppers and bean sprouts. 

Cambodian Beers

We love tasting the local beers whenever we travel. Cambodia had at least five that we tried during our time here. They all have a light flavor and subtle variances, perfect for the hot days. 

• Cambodia.  The national beer featuring a bold red label with the country and brand’s name. 

• Angkor.  Named after Cambodia’s most iconic sight, its label features a graphic of its famed stupas.

• Anchor.  A competitor to Angkor, with an anchor on its label. 

• Hanuman.  A beer with a blue label featuring a Hindu monkey deity. 

• Krud.  A popular and inexpensive pilsner with a green logo of its name. 

Getting Around 

On Foot.  The city center is very walkable though chaotic. Sidewalks are often blocked by street food vendors and scooter parking. To cross roads, slowly and fearlessly walk into the flow of tuk tuks, scooters and cars. Traffic will slow down, go around you or stop.  

By Tuk Tuk.  Three wheeled carts, a kind of hybrid between a scooter and a car. They’re readily available and extremely inexpensive to get around the city. We used Grab, to call one when getting around. 

Location Specifics

Dress Modesty.  When visiting temples, museums and the palace, it’s important to dress modestly. Visitors are asked to cover their legs and shoulders as well as remove hats and shoes before entering. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not directly safe for drinking. It’s best to boil or filter it. 

Currency.  The US Dollar and Cambodian Riel are used interchangeably.

Cash vs Card.  Cash is the preferred method of payment everywhere. Few places accept credit or debit card. 

Scams.  Beware of scammy tuk tuk drivers. They will ask you where you’re going then tell you the museum, temple, palace, etc is closed. They’ll then try to convince you to take a city sight seeing tour with them.

Language.  The official language of Cambodia is Khmer however most people speak a little English. We learned few Khmer words while here:

• Hello = Suostei (so-say-tie)

• Thank you = Arkoun (are-kun)

• Good bye = Leahaey (lee-hai)

Where to Stay

We stayed in a large two bedroom apartment two blocks away from the Central Market. The apartment has tall ceilings, colorful tiled floors, a full kitchen and balcony overlooking the street. Each bedroom has its own private bathroom and AC. It was the perfect spot to share with a friend traveling with us. We booked on Airbnb. 

Siem Reap, Cambodia

Siem Reap, Cambodia

Siem Reap is the ancient capital and cultural hub of present day Cambodia. It’s surrounded by archeological sights, historic temples and ancient ruins, most notably, Angkor Wat. The city itself is home to Buddhist temples, local markets, lively nightlife and a royal residence. 

Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat is a mysterious and historic complex comprised of overgrown and crumbling structures, towering stupas, jungleous pyramids, rectangular lakes and sprawling temples decorated in intricate details, carvings and statues. Many sights date back well over 1,000 years and some remain active Buddhist temples today. It takes multiple days to explore the vast complex to truly appreciate its grandeur and history. We passed by ruins in our tuk tuk, watched sunrises beyond them, walked through their ancient chambers and climbed their steep steps. Angkor Wat is a true world wonder that connects the ancient past and modern day. 

Getting Around Angkor Wat

The best way to visit Angkor Wat is by hiring a tuk tuk for the day. Drivers charge $25-$30 USD per day including a return trip to the city during the afternoon for lunch, rest or to escape the heat. Our driver gifted us Cambodian scarfs, supplied ice water and cold towels scented with lemongrass. We found our driver at the bus station but they can also be booked on Trip Advisor. 

Three Day Self-Guided Tour

Angkor Wat Tickets. Single day, three day and seven day tickets are available to visit Angkor Wat. They should be purchased ahead of time from the Official Website. Keep a digital or printed copy on you at all times for guards to scan at each temple. We visited Angkor Wat over three days, planning our route to maximize time in the mornings, avoiding peak visiting hours and the harsh afternoon heat. 

• Day One.  We visited Eastern Me Bon for the sunrise at 6am followed by Pre Rup, Ta Prohm and Banteay Kdei. We left at noon, returning at 3:30pm to visit the main temple of Angkor Wat for sunset. 

• Day Two.  We visited Angkor Wat for the sunrise at 5am followed by Angkor Thom South Gate, Bayon, Baphuon, the Terrace of the Elephants and the Terrace of the Leper King. We left Angkor Wat at 11am, returning at 2:30pm to visit Preah Khan Temple and Neak Pean Temple. 

• Day Three.  We visited the Banteay Srei and Baksei Chamkrong in the morning, returning to Siem Reap by noon, ending our tour of Angkor Wat. 

Angkor Wat Sights 

Eastern Me Bon.  A Hindu temple built during the 10th century with depictions of Shiva carved into its walls. Steps lead to each level of the temple’s multi-tiered square platforms. The steps are guarded by statues of lions. The four corners of each platform are flanked by statues of elephants. Five pyramid topped towers cumulate at its center. The structure is constructed from orange brick and porous orange stone blocks. Crumbling parts of the temple are supported by large wooden braces. We visited at 6am to watch the sun rise and had the entire temple to ourselves. The golden warm glow of the sunrise illuminated the central towers as the sounds of crickets and birds chirping echoed from the surrounding jungle. 

Pre Rup.  An ancient Hindu funerary complex dating back over 1,000 years. Steps lead to each level of the ruin’s multi-tiered square platforms. Pyramid topped towers flank its entrance and five more sit at its highest and most central point. Reliefs of Shiva decorate the stone walls and statues of sitting lions guard each level. Tree top views of the jungle can be admired from its upper platform. 

Ta Prohm (Tomb Raider Temple).  The overgrown ruins of a Buddhist temple hidden within the lush jungle. Giant trees grow from the temple, their roots cover walls and spider across the ground. Pathways lead through crumbling chambers and former halls to courtyards with piles of rubble and moss covered stones. All manner of birds chirp, squawk and fly overhead. Decaying reliefs and carvings decorate surfaces while statues of Buddha rest in various states of disrepair. It’s one of the most popular temples to visit due to its appearance in “Tomb Raider.” It’s best to visit before 8am to beat the buses full of tourists. 

Banteay Kdei.  A Buddhist temple dating back to the 13th Century. A stone gate with a four faced head of Buddha adorns the temple’s entrance. A stone walkway leads past the ruins of rooms and chambers with walls and columns decorated in carvings of Khmer dancers. Crumbled sections of the temple are overgrown with hundred year old trees home to cicadas and their deafening hum. The temple is still actively visited by Buddhist monks.

Angkor Wat.  The largest religious temple complex in the world, featuring both Hindu and Buddhist motifs. A long bridge crosses a mote to a wide entrance gate lined with stone columns and three symmetrical stupas. Beyond the gate is the iconic image of Angkor Wat. A road flanked by lawns, reflecting pools and small temples leads to the central structure. Its interior is adorned with countless images of Hindu deities and intricately patterned designs. A steep staircase leads to the upper platform and three towering stupas. At its center are Buddhist shrines still used by today’s monks and followers. 

Angkor Wat Sunrise.  We arrived just before 5am and were some of the first to enter the temple. We watched from the south reflecting pool and north temple as the sky turned orange and sun rose above the temple. 

Angkor Thom South Gate.  A gate entering the Angkor Thom temple complex. A bridge lined with statues of Buddha crosses over a mote leading to the gate. The gate has a four faced head of Buddha and a narrow road passing through it.

Bayon.  A 12th Century temple defined by its towers with four faced heads of Buddha looking in the cardinal directions. Stacks of stone and piles of rubble surround the crumbling temple. Detailed stories and pictures are carved into its ancient walls. Stairs lead to its mid-level and inner passageways, some barely wide enough to squeeze through. Colonies of bats live within the dark chambers. Families of wild monkeys roam free with warning signs cautioning people to beware of monkey attacks. Bayon is easily one of the most unique and wild feeling temples at Angkor Wat.

Baphuon.  The ruins of a four sided, multi-tiered temple set against the backdrop of the dense jungle. A dried up causeway leads to its base where steep staircases ascend to each level. Minimal details and statures have survived the centuries of decay. Piles of stone and rubble are placed throughout the surrounding grounds. Families of wild monkeys play on the ruins and in the trees. 

Terrace of the Elephants.  A walled platform defined by large reliefs and statues of dozens of elephants carved into it. Their detailed bodies march along the wall while their trunks and faces protrude from its corners. The terrace tells the story of victorious battle and returning warriors. It is believed to have been used as a royal square. 

Terrace of the Leper King.  A terrace with tall stone walls and narrow passageways covered in thousands of carved figures and dancers. It’s given its name due to the colored moss discovered on the faces. 

Preah Khan Temple.  A former Hindu temple dedicated to the god Shiva and later converted into a Buddhist monastery. At its peak, it’s believed over 100,000 monks lived and studied on its grounds. A bridge lined with Buddha statues crosses a small mote to each its gate. A corridor leads through the temple past various chambers with hallways branching off from it. In its courtyards are stupas carved with ornate designs and niches where statues of Shiva once stood. Most of the temple has collapsed with large stone boulders and piles of rubble in its place. 

Neak Pean Temple.  An island temple surrounded by a large rectangular lake. A boardwalk leads to the island and a trail to the temple. A small stupa sits on a round platform resembling a blooming lotus flower. It’s surrounded by four pools, each used for healing and cleansing in ancient times. 

Banteay Srei Temple.  A temple described as one of the best surviving examples of Khmer architecture and artistry. Carved from orange and pink sand stone, it’s famed for its fine stonework and highly ornate designs. A wall surrounds several small stupas, each decorated in detailed motifs of Hindu gods and deities. The temple is small compared to many of those across Angkor Wat but no less impressive. It’s located about an hour from the city by tuk tuk. 

Baksei Chamkrong Temple.  A five level and four sided step pyramid built during the 10th Century. Steep steps lead to shrine on top where an ancient legend is recounted in Sanskrit writings. Originally dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva, the temple was later converted into a Buddhist shrine. 

Siem Reap City Sights 

Wat Bo.  A functioning Buddhist monastery with temples for monks to mediate and pray, buildings where they live and a school where they study. The main temple dates back to the 19th Century. Its interior walls are painted in colorful frescos of prayer, meditation, dance, battle and legends. Several were being restored at the time. 

Wat Preah Prom Rath.  A very colorful Buddhist temple with Khmer style buildings and golden stupas. The main temple sits on a base of gilded lotus pedals surrounded by a courtyard with vibrantly painted reliefs depicting Buddhist stories. Inside is a golden Buddha sitting on an ornate altar and a 500 year old reclining Buddha. Monks wearing orange robes walk around the grounds planted with plumeria trees, sculpted bushes and statues dedicated to the legend of the temple. 

Royal Residence Garden.  A residence dedicated to the Cambodian Royal Family when visiting Siem Reap. The surrounding gardens and grounds are open for free to visitors. We walked around the landscaped hedges, trees with large bats and visited a small Khmer style Buddhist temple.

The French Quarter.  A historic area of the city with pastel painted French style buildings home to cafes, restaurants, various shops and the Old Market. 

Pub Street.  A popular nightlife street in the city center with restaurants and bars, colorful lights, live music, outdoor patios and daily happy hours. It’s a lively spot to enjoy local beers, inexpensive drinks and to meet other travelers. 

Siem Reap Markets

Phsar Leu Thom Tmey.  The city’s largest and most traditional market. Inside the complex of aisles are vendors selling clothing, textiles, jewelry, electronics, appliances and basic necessities. Food vendors line the outside of the market selling all types of fresh and local ingredients like fruits, vegetables, exotic meats, lake fish, street food and insects. Like all local markets, visiting is a great way to immerse oneself in the local culture. We bought a week’s worth of groceries for less than $20 USD. 

Phsar Samaki Vegetable & Fruit Market.  A dimly lit market underneath a shed of roofs with vendors selling vegetables, fruits, butchered meats, dried fish, jars of spices and sauces. It’s not necessarily the cleanest market in the world but has a very local feeling to it, affordable prices and friendly locals. 

The Old Market.  A historic market in the French Quarter with aisles of vendors selling clothing, bags, jewelry and souvenirs. The center has a farmers market with fresh fruits, vegetables, herbs, seafood, meats, nuts and other locally farmed goods. 

Made in Cambodia Market.  A craft market with booths of vendors selling locally made items and souvenirs like beaded jewelry, paintings of Angkor Wat, Khmer masks, colorful sarongs, paper fans, woven baskets and aromatic spices.

The Night Market.  A popular nighttime market along the Siem Reap River in the city center. It’s known for its street food with cooks serving skewered and fried meats, fish and veggies from mobile kitchens and carts. 

Lake Tonle Sap Stilt Village Tour 

Lake Tonle Sap is the largest freshwater lake in South East Asia. It’s home to fishing communities known as stilt villages. Houses and buildings are raised on 10 meter tall bamboo stilts to accommodate flooding during the rainy season. We visited the village in March during the dry season. We walked underneath stilt houses, crossed makeshift bamboo bridges and followed along a narrow river with colorful long boats. We were continually greeted by locals and small children running out from houses to say hello and give high-fives. After the village tour, we boarded a long boat and rode it to a floating restaurant on the lake where we ate fresh fish, drank Cambodian beer and watched the sunset. We booked our tour with Angkor Wat Shared Tours on Viator. It included round trip transportation from Siem Reap. 

LGBTQ+ Scene   

We felt very welcomed and accepted all across Cambodia and especially in Siem Reap. The city center has a small but thriving gay scene. We visited two gay bars and met openly gay locals, expats and other travelers.

B Ball.  A small gay bar on a narrow alleyway decorated in colorful lights, rainbow banners and progress flags. We stopped in for their buy 1 get 1 free happy hour from 5-7pm. 

Rendezvous Bar.  A small but popular gay bar with stiff drinks, friendly bartenders and a welcoming atmosphere. The bar is popular with older gay men and expats. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Changkran Khmer.  A traditional Cambodian restaurant with a menu featuring local dishes including seafood from Lake Tonle Sap. The ambiance is peaceful with an open air second floor dining room hidden in the middle of a residential neighborhood. We visited multiple times and tasted various dishes. 

• Fish Amok.  Cambodia’s national dish, dating back to the Khmer Empire. It’s made from lake fish wrapped steamed in coconut milk and curry. We ordered it prepared two ways, served traditionally in a banana leaf bowl and served in a young coconut. 

• Knorb Trey.  Snake head fish stewed with a Khmer curry in a banana leaf bowl. 

• Clay Pot Fish.  Rice noodles and lake fish cooked with warm spices and vegetables in a clay pot. 

Angkor Hand-Pulled Noodles and Dumplings.  A small restaurant with inexpensive Cambodian noodle dishes and fried dumplings including vegetarian dishes. 

The 1961.  A cafe and bar with strong brewed coffee, cocktails and brunch dishes. It’s popular with digital nomads. 

Location Specifics

Dress Modesty.  When visiting temples and museums, it’s important to dress modestly. Visitors are asked to cover their legs and shoulders as well as remove hats and shoes before entering. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not directly safe for drinking. It’s best to boil or filter it. 

Currency.  The US Dollar and Cambodian Riel are used interchangeably.

Cash vs Card.  Cash is the preferred method of payment everywhere. Few places accept credit or debit card. 

Language.  The official language of Cambodia is Khmer however most people speak a little English. We learned few Khmer words while here:

• Hello = Suostei (so-say-tie)

• Thank you = Arkoun (are-kun)

• Good bye = Leahaey (lee-hai)

Where to Stay 

We stayed in a two bedroom house on the north side of the city. It made for a quiet and peaceful retreat with ease of access to Angkor Wat and the city center. The house had a relaxing porch with a hammock, a living room with floor cushions and a kitchen well equipped for cooking our own meals. We booked on Airbnb. 

Saigon, Vietnam

Saigon, Vietnam

Saigon is bustling Vietnamese city famed for its chaotic streets, vibrant nightlife and historic sights. Narrow alleyways and roads are lined with thin buildings, home to coffee shops, cocktail bars and seafood restaurants.

Ho Chi Minh City 

Saigon is formally known as Ho Chi Minh City or HCMC. Modern skyscrapers define the skyline, each illuminated in colorful lights at night. Moto bikes continually zip across the city, beeping at pedestrians stuck in zebra crossings. The city is an important location to learn about the war and unification of Vietnam. We only spent a few days here but could easily get lost exploring this city for weeks. 

Things to Do

Mail a Post Card.  Visit the French Colonial style Ho Chi Minh Post Office to buy a post card and mail it back home. Baskets of post cards feature Vietnamese artwork, historic sights and cultural symbols. We bought a couple, stamped them with local postage and sent them on their way around the world. It’s very touristy and fun experience that brings back the nostalgia of traveling in a time before smart phones and social media. 

Order Coffee at The Cafe Apartments.  A nine floor building along the Nguyen Hue Walking Street with dozens of cafes serving Vietnamese style coffees. From the street, neon signs, paper lanterns and string lights cover the building and its balconies. We visited Saigon Oi, a cafe on the center of the fifth floor decorated in plants and vines with a balcony overlooking the walking street. We ordered an iced coconut coffee and iced matcha latte, each topped with coffee and tea jellies. 

Shop at the Cho Ben Thanh Market.  A historic Vietnamese market with aisles of souvenir stands, custom clothing makers, jewelry shops and vendors selling coffee, spices and candies. Shops will give outrageous prices for their goods. Negotiate for the cost of everything, offering to pay as little as 10-20% of the asking price. Walk away when they say no. They’ll chase after and eventually accept. 

• Street Food Kitchens.  Inside Cho Ben Thanh Market are restaurants serving fresh pressed juices and seafood focused Vietnamese dishes. Try the sugarcane juice and Chao Tom, minced shrimp wrapped around sugarcane and grilled.

• Farmers Market.  An outdoor farmers market lines the rear of the market. Vendors sell fruits, vegetables, tofu, a variety of eggs and fresh caught seafood like crabs, prawns, squid and whole fish. We shopped here for groceries during our time in town. 

Eat Vietnamese Street Food.  With its proximity to the coast, seafood is popular across Saigon, especially as street food. We visited, Quan Ang Cua, a local seafood restaurant with tanks of live sea creatures ranging from baby octopus, red snapper, grouper, conch, prawns, crabs, lobsters, scallops and snails. We ordered a bowl of snails cooked in coconut brith and crab sautéed in garlic butter. Other street food includes stir fried noodles, five colored sticky rice and boba milk tea.

Ride the Saigon Waterbus.  A water taxi with stations along Saigon river. We booked tickets to sightsee and watch the sunset, riding the full route between Bach Dang and Linh Dong stations. We embarked an hour before sunset and returned an hour after sunset. The route offered views of the modern skyline, landmark buildings, French style chateaus, riverside parks, contemporary bridges, local neighborhoods and waterfront restaurants.

Pro Tip.  Book tickets at the station a day in advance. When buying tickets, request an outdoor or window seat to maximize views. The most central station is Bach Dang.

Visit the Cu Chi Tunnels.  The infamous tunnels were dug by the Vietcong and Cu Chi guerrillas to fight against the Americans during the Vietnam War. The former battle ground, now a museum teaches about the 250km of tunnels, the history of the war, the use of conventional and chemical weapons, guerrilla warfare and booby traps. We crawled through a widened 100 meter section of a tunnel, watched as people fired machine guns and tasted cassava often eaten by soldiers. The tunnels are located about 1 hour 30 minutes from Saigon. We visited with Vietnam Travel Group and booked on Viator. 

Walking Streets

Bui Vien Walking Street.  A nightlife street with bars, clubs, tattoo shops and massage parlors. Bright and colorful lights illuminate the street as loud music, live singers, go-go dancers, crowds of visitors, beeping moto bikes and hosts eager to flag down customers create a spectrum of sensory stimuli. Numbered bars and sidewalk patios with fold up chairs line both sides of the street selling inexpensive Vietnamese beers like the city’s namesake, Saigon. 

Nguyen Hue Walking Street.  A walking street leading from the French Colonial style city hall to the Saigon River. It’s lined with a range of hotels, cafes, restaurants and stores. Large digital screens display banners of the communist flag and propaganda. Festivals and events are often held here. At the time, decorations from Tet celebrations the month prior remained on display.

Book Street.  A pedestrian only street with a couple dozen bookshops, cafes and kiosks selling mostly Vietnamese books. We strolled through the shops looking at the beautiful covers and Vietnamese translations of English titles. 

See the Sights

Independence Palace.  The former seat of government for the Southern Vietnam Republic. It’s now a historical museum and symbol of Vietnam’s reunification after the fall of Saigon. The armored tanks used to storm the palace gates and a fighter jet used to bomb it during the south’s collapse are displayed on the front lawn. 

The building is a midcentury beauty defined by its rectangular planes, minimal detailing, lofty corridors and symmetrical design. It was inspired by a French colonial palace that once stood in its place while taking on elements of ancient Vietnamese design. Its ground floor is mostly open air with rooms used for hosting state banquets, cabinet meetings and conferences. The second floor served as the presidential office and residence with a grand foyer, reception hall, ambassadors hall, national security chamber, bedroom and wardrobe. The third floor is the entertainment floor with a game room, theater, first lady’s reception room and a library. The fourth floor has a gala space, a helicopter pad and two large circles noting where bombs were dropped on the palace. 

Skydeck Saigon.  An observation deck located on the 49th floor of the city’s iconic Lotus Tower with panoramic views of the city, countryside and Saigon River. 

Notre Dame Cathedral.  A French colonial cathedral designed to look like Notre Dame with rose windows, two tall spires and buttress like facades. The cathedral was closed and almost fully covered in scaffolding during the time we visited.

Saigon Opera House.  A French colonial opera house in the middle of downtown with a traditional arched facade decorated in classical designs and Greek statues. The neighborhood surrounding it is home to many French luxury brands and high end hotels. 

Tao Dan Park.  A city park with shaded walkways, flower gardens, a lily pond, pagoda inspired pavilions, various sculptures and a temple dedicated to a former king. We packed a lunch and dined in the park with bubble milk tea. 

Cocktail Bars 

Like many major cities, cocktail bars are popular across Saigon. In typical style, we visited a speakeasy, tiki bar and roof top bar.

Dot Drinkery & Kitchen.  A speakeasy style cocktail bar on the third floor of an unassuming building with a dimly lit interior and Veitnamese decor. The mixologists craft flavorful and aromatic cocktails with local ingredients like kumquat juice, pandan leaves, lemongrass and shrimp salt. Try the Big City Life and The Guava Dawn.

Waikiki Bar & Restaurant.  A two floor tiki bar with beachy decor on the Bui Vien Walking Street. Come here for tropical drinks served in tiki mugs and fresh coconuts. Relax with a Singapore Sling or Mai Tai and watch the busyness of the street pass-by. 

The View Rooftop Bar.  A rooftop bar and restaurant on the Bui Vien Walking Street with panoramic city views and well made cocktails. Try a classic lyche martini or the Hoi An Ancient Town, a gin and lotus flower drink served in a ceramic mug with a rooster painted on it.

Location Specifics

Getting Around.  We explored the city mainly on foot and by calling Grab. Grab is South East Asia’s taxi hailing app. Grabs are widely available and inexpensive. 

Crossing Traffic.  Crossing traffic can be intimidating in Vietnam and cities like Saigon. We cautiously walked into traffic with our hands out at zebra crosswalks, keeping a slow but consistent pace as scooters passed by on either side of us. It definitely takes some getting used to. 

Card vs Cash.  Cash is the preferred method of payment. Many businesses will not accept credit or debit cards. The Vietnamese Dong is the local currency. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption. It’s best to buy bottled or filtered water.

Safety.  Like most of Vietnam, Saigon is safe to visit with no need for extra precautions. 

Language.  Vietnamese and English are widely spoken, seen on street signs and restaurant menus across the country. That said, it’s still good to know a few Vietnamese phrases.

• Hello = Xin chào (Sing-Chow)

• Thank you = Cảm ơn (Com-Un)

• Good bye = Tạm biệt (Tam-Be-Et)

• See you later = Hẹn gặp lại (Hen-Gap-Lie)

Where to Stay

We stayed at Ekomo Home, a small apartment building with short term rentals. The cozy fifth floor unit had a full kitchen and city views with a basic rooftop terrace one floor above. It’s located less than 5 minutes to the Bui Vien Walking Street and 20 minutes from the Cho Ben Thanh Market. 

Elsewhere in Vietnam 

We spent nearly a month traveling across Vietnam, exploring its lively cities and beautiful landscapes. Along the way, we immersed ourselves in the country’s rich culture, history and craftsmanship while savoring Vietnamese cuisine, coffee and street food. Visit the ancient town of Hoi An for Vietnamese street food and the nightly lantern festival.  Explore the bustling capital city and chaotic of Hanoi or venture out of the city to the islands of Ha Long Bay. Row through the karst mountains and caves of Ninh Binh past lush rice paddies and historic temples. 

For Next Time… 

Saigon is one of the few major cities we could see ourselves living! It’s urban charm, vibrant energy and worldly presence beacon us to return. We have a short list of city sights and countryside escapes that we plan to experience on our next trip. 

Explore the Saigon Waterbus Route. Sightseeing on the waterbus was a great way to see the river and city! When we return, we plan to spend a day exploring the neighborhoods and sights along several of the stops.

Ben Nghe Street Food Market.  A large food hall specializing in Vietnamese cuisine and street food. It’s a popular tourist spot to enjoy local and worldly flavors. 

Cat Tien National Park.  A tropical forest and protected bio-reserve home to multitudes of endangered and exotic flora and fauna. Self guided bike and foot trails lead through the park while guides can be hired for “safaris.” It’s located about 4 hours from Saigon. 

Cai Rang (Can Tho) Floating Market.  Merchants gather on hundreds of small wooden boats selling fruits and vegetables, cooking street food and performing Vietnamese folk music. The market is located a few hours from Saigon and best experienced in the early hours of 4-6am. 

Ninh Binh, Vietnam

The Ancient Capital of Vietnam

Ninh Binh is the ancient capital of Vietnam. It’s a place where history, nature and culture seamlessly blend together. Scenic landscapes are defined by towering karst mountains, underground rivers, deep cave systems and endless fields of rice paddies. Rowers navigate passengers through the tranquil waterways and countryside. Historic temples, royal tombs and modern day pagodas invite visitors and worshippers to their halls. Small villages with charming homestays and restaurants serving regional cuisine provide a welcoming and local atmosphere. We spent a few days here, sightseeing at a relaxing pace.

Trang An Boat Tour

A breathtaking landscape covered in towering rock formations, lush tree covered mountains and underground rivers. Ancient temples and pagodas are perched on the hills and along the waterways, surrounded by nothing but nature. Even on a cloudy day, the haze covered silhouettes of the landscape create a mystifying allure. The best way to visit is by row boat tour. 

Trang An Temples 

Dinh Dien Temple.  A temple dating back over 1,000 years sitting on the edge of a river bank against the backdrop of a karst mountain. Within is wooden and stone facade is a glowing altar with statues, vases, offerings and smoldering incense. It’s located at the entrance of Hang Dot Cave, a 1,000 meter long cave and the longest in Trang An. 

Tran Temple.  One of the most sacred and ancient temples in Trang An. It’s decorated with intricate stone cavings featuring the four sacred animals, the dragon, turtle, phoenix and unicorn. It served as a defensive fort for the ancient kingdom over 1,000 years ago. It’s only reachable via a stone staircase between two karst formations. 

Khong Temple.  A legendary temple dating back to the 10th century. It honors an ancient king who was assassinated and his royal officials who secretly buried his body then killed themselves in order to keep the location a secret. 

Bao Hieu Pagoda.  A modern temple designed in ancient style near the Khong Temple. Its symmetrical facade is made from carved ironwood and limestone. Inside is a glowing shrine with golden statues of the Buddha and several monks. Outside are bronze statues and stone motifs of the four sacred animals. 

Trang An Caves 

Hang Toi Cave.  A 320 meter long cave with very narrow walls and low hanging rock formations. We had to duck several times. It was incredible how the rower was able to navigate through it. 

Hang Nau Ruou Cave.  A 250 meter long arched cave that weaves through the mountain. Deep inside sheets of sediment create angular walls and ceilings resembling the shape of a rhombus. The exit chamber holds large ceramic jars of aging wine. 

Son Duong Cave.  A 250 meter long cave tunneling through the karst mountains with hundreds of stalactites suspended from the ceiling.

Quy Hau Cave.  A short 100 meter cave with no artificial illumination giving it an untouched natural feeling.

Tips for Visiting Trang An

Arrive Early.  Get an early start before thousands of people arrive by bus. We arrived just before 7am and quickly made it to a row boat. 

Choose A Route.  There are three different routes through Trang An. We chose Route 1, the longest route and least crowded. It brought us through 9 different caves and to multiple temples.

Boat Size.  Boats fit four people, we were paired with an other couple. 

Tipping.  Tipping is expected. Tip the rower 10% of the ticket fee.

Skull Island 

A movie set created for King Kong Skull Island with a village of thatched conical huts. It’s viewable from one route through Trang An and from a mountainous hike overlooking it. A trail leads from just outside of the village into the karst mountains. At its summit is a bamboo hut with views of the Island and the surrounding landscape. We visited on a foggy day which created it a mysterious allure. The park has several replica conical huts that can be visited, an outdoor restaurant and bamboo platforms above the river for swimming and sunning during the warmer months. 

Tam Coc Boat Tour

Tam Coc is a river valley flanked by the famed karst mountains and sprouting rice paddies and of Ninh Binh’s landscape. Much like Trang An, the best way to tour the waterway is by row boat tour. Rowers often paddle using their feet, a surprisingly common sight. The river weaves through the valley and into tiny slits within the mountains to dark caves. On a cloudy day, the mountains fade into the haze creating a mysterious atmosphere that spans across the landscape.

Tips for Visiting Tam Coc

Arrive Early.  Arrive by 7:30am or earlier to avoid the large tour groups. Buy tickets from the tour office and take the electric shuttle to the boat launch. 

Choose A Route.  There is only one boat route however there is an additional option to see multiple temples along the waterway by electric shuttle. 

Boat Size.  Boats are assigned by group, ranging from individual to groups as large as six. 

Tipping.  Tipping is expected. Tip the rower 10% of the ticket fee.

Bai Dinh Pagoda Complex 

Bai Dinh is one of the most impressive Buddhist sights in the world and the largest temple complex in Vietnam. It dates back to the 11th Century and has a developing modern day expansion keeping true to the original architectural styles and symmetry. 

Internal Three Gates.  An entrance temple with three large doorways. Together, they symbolize entering the world of the Buddha. Inside are two giant bronze statues of an armored warrior. One encouraging people to do good deeds and one warning people against doing evil deeds. 

Arhat Corridor.  A lively corridor stretching across the temple complex and landscape with 500 stone statues of monks that have reached enlightenment. They are all unique and incredibly animated, each holding different postures and expressions. Some range from stoic and wise to laughing and humorous, peaceful and calm, young and old. People often rub their knees, feet, bellies or objects they’re holding for good luck. It holds the record for the longest Arhat corridor in Asia and largest number of Arhat statues in Vietnam.

Bell Tower.  An octagonal three tiered pagoda housing the largest bronze bell in Vietnam. Steps lead to dark wooden pagoda’s  belfry where the trunk of an entire ironwood tree is used to ring it. We could only imagine echoing noise it must make. Below the bell is an equally impressive 70 ton bronze drum.

The Kuan-Yin Hall.  A major temple housing a giant gilded statue of the Avalokiteshvara Buddha. A version of the Buddha with 11 heads and 1000 arms seated on a lotus flower. The is a modern addition to the complex built with historical accuracy. It has an ironwood and brick facade, three large gates or doors and a brown terracotta tiled roof with tail feather tipped cornices. We bought and donated a terracotta roof tile to the pagoda for its future repairs. We signed our names with the words “eternal love.”

The Buddha Sakyamuni Hall.  A major temple taller than the previous with a large gilded Buddha sitting on a lotus flower at its center. Its walls are lined with hundreds of niches containing smaller Buddha statues. Its ceiling features an arched structure carved in motifs of dragons as if flying across the sky above. In front of the Buddha is an alter with large ceramic vases and offerings of fruits, sweets, flowers and money.

The Three Periods Hall.  The final major temple and largest of the three. Inside are three gilded statues of the Buddha representing the past, present and future. Each sits on lotus flower with a golden backdrop behind them, making different signs with their hands. It is the largest set of Period Buddhas in Vietnam. Like the precious temples, there are alters for offering and its walls are decorated in niches of gilded sitting Buddhas.

Maitreya Buddha Statue.  A giant bronze statue of the happy looking big bellied Buddha. It stands on a pedestal in the open air and is the largest of its type in Asia.

The Sacred Bodhi Tree.  A propagation of the world’s longest living tree, aged over 2,500 years. It is thought that Buddha attained enlightenment underneath it.

Bao Thien Stupa.  The tallest stupa in all of Asia, measuring 100 meters tall. It’s an impressive sight visible from around the temple complex. An elevator leads to the 12th floor with views of the landscape and surroundings temples. Stairs lead to the 13th floor with a gilded alter and domed ceiling with reliefs of various postures Buddhas. It’s a modern addition to the complex, completed in 2008.

Ancient Pagoda.  A 1,000 year old pagoda at the entrance of the ancient mountain temple complex. It has a simple four tiered design with various arches and hieroglyphs. It leads up a trail to two sacred cave temples. 

Buddha Worshiping Cave.  A cave temple in the mountainous part of the ancient complex. Inside of its cavernous walls are altars and statues of Buddha built upon rock formations. 

Mother Goddess Worshiping Cave.  A sacred cave with several Buddhist altars and a natural hot spring surrounded by winding statues of two sea dragons. 

The Hoa Lu Ancient Capital 

Hoa Lu is the sight of Vietnam’s Ancient Capital with royal temples, pagodas and the tombs of past emperors.It’s culturally significant to the Vietnamese and an important part of the country’s history. 

Dinh Tien Hong King Temple.  A temple dedicated to the first king of ancient Vietnam credited with unifying the country during the 9th Century. Multiple gates and tranquil courtyards with koi ponds lead to the main temple. Stone stelae sitting on statues of turtles, a reproduction of the emperor’s throne and a stone dragon bed a placed throughout. Inside its intricately carved wooden and stone facade are statues of the former emperor. People often pray to him and pay him tribute. 

Le Dai Hanh King Temple.  A temple dedicated to a revered king from the 9th Century responsible for expanding ancient Vietnam’s growth and prosperity. It’s very similar to the previous temple with a slightly different courtyard.

Tomb of Emperor Le Dai Hanh.  The burial sight of a Vietnamese emperor built against the backdrop of the mountains facing a rice paddy. It’s located 1km from the temple and much lesser visited. 

Tuyet Tinh Coc (Buddha Cave)

A lake park surrounded by karst mountains with Buddhist temples at its two ends. The park is accessible through a tunnel, painted with vibrant murals of Vietnam’s landscape, history and legends. At one end of the lake is a cliffside cave with golden Buddha statues and a sacred spring inside. On the opposite end of the lake is a wooden pagoda built upon a rocky ridge. People often come here to run loops around the lake, feed the koi fish and picnic. 

Trang An Village

Located near the entrance in Trang An between rice paddies and karst formations is the rural village of Xuan Ang Ngoai. It’s lesser visited and has an authentic atmosphere. People fish in the canals, older women sell produce at tiny roadside shops, children play soccer in front of the temple and karaoke echos from people’s homes at night. The village is popular with backpackers and budget travelers for its homestays. A homestay is small local run hotel that offer room and board. Throughout the town are affordable restaurants and cafes. It’s the perfect for biking to Trang An, Tam Coc and the Ancient Citadel without the need to hire a guide or join a tour. 

Vietnamese Cuisine in Ninh Binh 

The cuisine in Ninh Binh is similar to that of many other places in Vietnam. Dishes like pho, banh mi, spring rolls, rice and noodles are commonly eaten and served. There are some dishes that stand out.

Fried Tofu.  Fried tofu stewed in a variety of sauces. The two most common styles are tofu with lemongrass and tofu with tomatoes.  

Burnt Rice.  Large puffed rice crackers served with a savory dipping sauce or stew made from meats and vegetables. 

Dumplings.  Crispy pan fried dumplings stuffed with meats, vegetables or seafood.

Bao.  Puffy steamed bread rolls. They’re eaten at breakfast or as a snack. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Restaurant Trang A Riverside Garden.  A riverside restaurant with Vietnamese dishes common in Ninh Binh. We ordered the lemongrass tofu and crispy fish dumplings. The next day, we returned for a round of local beers and game of pool. 

Trang An NP.  A roadside restaurant in the village with generous portions of local dishes. We tried the burnt rice with vegetable stew, the crispy spring rolls and tomato tofu. 

Cafe The Began.  A small cafe with Vietnamese and European style coffees. We visited one morning for a brown coffee (coffee with sweetened condensed milk).  While sipping on coffee, we played a game of chess. 

Getting Here & Around

By Transfer.  To reach Ninh Binh, we took a door to door transfer from Hanoi. The trip took about two hours. On our return, we were dropped off at the airport in Hanoi. Book here to reach Ninh Ninh. Book here to return from Ninh Binh.

By Bike.  The best way to get around Ninh Binh is on a bicycle. From our homestay, we were able to reach Trang An, Tom Coc and the Ancient Citadel each within 30 minutes. Most homestays offer bike rentals for a small fee. We paid the equivalent of $4 for 2 bikes during our entire stay.   

Location Specifics

Card vs Cash.  Cash is the preferred method of payment. Many businesses will not accept credit or debit cards. The Vietnamese Dong is the local currency. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption. It’s best to buy bottled or filtered water.

Safety.  Like most of Vietnam, Ninh Binh is safe to visit with no need for extra precautions. 

Language.  Vietnamese and English are widely spoken, seen on street signs and restaurant menus across the country. That said, it’s still good to know a few Vietnamese phrases.

• Hello = Xin chào (Sing-Chow)

• Thank you = Cảm ơn (Com-Un)

• Good bye = Tạm biệt (Tam-Be-Et)

• See you later = Hẹn gặp lại (Hen-Gap-Lie)

Where to Stay

Greenland Homestay.  A homestay in a small village near Trang An. We stayed here during our time in Ninh Binh, biking to the nearby sights. The homestay has private rooms, bike rentals, free breakfast, a beer fridge, restaurant and a pool. Reserve on Booking. 

Elsewhere in Vietnam 

We spent nearly a month traveling across Vietnam, exploring its lively cities and beautiful landscapes. Along the way, we immersed ourselves in the country’s rich culture, history and craftsmanship while savoring Vietnamese cuisine, coffee and street food. Visit the ancient town of Hoi An for Vietnamese street food and the nightly lantern festival. Explore the bustling capital city and chaotic of Hanoi or venture out of the city to the islands of Ha Long Bay. Get lost in the vibrant city and nightlife of Saigon.

For Next Time…

We would re-do our entire trip to Ninh Binh during a different time of year with a lesser chance of cloudy and cold weather. If we return, we may choose the peak season during November or December opposed to mid February. 

Hanoi, Vietnam

Hanoi, Vietnam

Hanoi is a sprawling metropolis abound with rich cultural experiences, a storied history and modern appeal. The capital city dates back to ancient times, is home to landmark sights and sacred temples. Paper lanterns and communist flags often decorate its chaotic streets as people speed by on scooters. Bustling night markets, sidewalk cafes and street food vendors lure in locals and visitors alike. Nearby natural wonders offer a peaceful escape from the city’s lively pace. 

Old Quarter Streets

Hanoi’s Old Quarter is one of the most lively neighborhoods of the city with several “themed” streets. It’s popular for its night markets, nightlife, food scene, train streets and cultural products. 

Hang Buom (Nightlife Street).  An incredibly vibrant, loud and chaotic nightlife street  with dozens of bars catering to all crowds of people. We bar hopped among the chaos, enjoying a bottle of soju at street level and cocktails from a balcony overlooking it. 

Hang Dao (Night Market Street).  A street with a nightly market starting at 7pm. Tents of vendors sell clothing, jewelry, knock off hand bags and various goods while food carts fry and grill types of Vietnamese street food.

Hang Ma (Festival Street).  An street with several stores selling decorations for celebrations like Tet or Lunar New Year. Shops stand out with the red, yellow and golden glow of paper lanterns, tasseled ornaments, begging cats, dragon puppets, red envelopes and incense sticks.

Hang Gai (Silk Street).  The silk district with several shops and tailors selling silk textiles, clothing and accessories.

Tong Duy Tan (Food Street).  A street lined with restaurants selling Vietnamese dishes, vegetarian meals and various forms of hot pot. Twinkle lights and paper lanterns decorate the trees above the street as Moto bikes zip by and locals eat.

Cha Ca Street.  A street named after Hanoi’s most famous local dish, Cha Ca. Several restaurants prepare and serve it, one of the most well known is Cha Ca La Vong. It’s the only item on the menu and they’ve had over 150 years to perfect their recipe. 

Phung Hung (Train Street).  A narrow railway sandwiched between a canyon of buildings lined with dozens of cafes and bars serving Vietnamese coffees and beers. The street is covered in a mangle of string lights, colorful lanterns and illuminated signs with track side patios and second floor balconies. It’s easily one of the most exhilarating streets in the old town. Hundreds of people flock here to the to experience the train rushing past during an adrenaline packed minute. 

Pro Tip.  Ask any cafe staff when the next train is scheduled and the direction it’s traveling from. Return at least one hour before to get a good spot. Visit at night when the atmosphere is bright and lively. 

Good to Know.  There are a lot of scammy people blocking access to the train street. They will try to charge an admission or force you to sit at their cafe. Ignore them and push past saying you have a reservation elsewhere. 

Tau Khan Thien (Train Street South).  An alternate train street nestled tightly between an alleyway of small buildings. Though designed for tourists, it’s lesser visited and feels more local. Many cafes are operated out of people’s homes while older Vietnamese women watch to make sure no one gets hurt. As the train approaches, stop keepers close up awnings, pack away furniture and instruct people to tuck up against the walls. It’s thrilling as the train approaches and passes with barely any clearance between us and it. 

Pro Tip.  Order a beer and place the bottle cap on the tracks for a flattened souvenir. 

See the Temples and Sights 

Temple of Literature.  An ancient Confucian temple dedicated to education and the development of talent. It was created by past emperors as a place for the most revered scholars to study and take a series of exams. Its symmetrical design is very symbolic. A central path suggests the path to enlightenment while a series of gates signifies the advance of knowledge. Today, students come to the grounds to mediate, study and pray for knowledge, good grades and their future. 

• Van Mieu Gate.  A three tiered entrance gate to the temple grounds adorned with motifs of dragons. It leads to a courtyard with a grassy lawn, sculpted bushes and pools with koi fish. 

• Khue Van Pagoda.  A red painted wooden pagoda held up by four stone columns representing the elements. It features designs of dragons and a circle symbolizing the infinite nature of enlightenment. It is considered the symbol of Hanoi. 

• Well of Heavenly Clarity.  A courtyard with a large koi pond at its center. It’s flanked by TheStelae of Doctors, a series ofpavilions housing statues of turtles with stelae placed on top. Each stelae is inscribed with writings from pervious royal scholars.

• Courtyard of the Sages.  A brick paved courtyard used for royal exams. Its sides are flanked by planters with bonsai trees and former class rooms, now a museum dedicated to the history of the complex and its scholars.

• House of Ceremonies.  A pavilion in the Courtyard of the Sageswith two large dragon sculptures centered on top of the terracotta tiled roof.

• Sanctuary of Confucius.  A temple dedicated to Confucius. Inside are statues of him and alters with burning sticks of intense, offerings of citrus fruits, cookies and flowers.

• Thai Hoc Hall.  A recently rebuilt pagoda dedicated to the emperors that founded The Temple of Literature. Inside of its two floors are statues of the emperors and alters to make offerings. 

Ancient Citadel.  The royal grounds of Vietnam’s ancient capital. Much of it was leveled during the French colonial period. Original stone dragon steps lead to where to former royal palace once stood. A museum houses artifacts discovered at archeological dig sights including ornate terracotta roof tiles, cornices of dragons, porcelain dishes and woodblocks used for printing. Exposed dig sights, piles of stacked bricks and terracotta roof tiles recovered from them can be seen throughout the grounds. 

Hoan Kiem Lake. A sacred lake in the old town home to ancient temples and the Legend of the Sword Lake Turtle. The legend says that a golden turtle appeared from the lake and lent a sword to the emperor to defeat an invading army. On weekends the surrounding road becomes a walking street with performers and street food vendors. 

Ngoc Son Temple.  An island temple on Hoan Kiem Lake reachable by a red wooden foot bridge. The temple is a very sacred place for the Vietnamese with multiple shrines dedicated to Confucius. It houses the preserved remains of two possibly extinct giant turtles that once lived in the lake. 

Ba Dinh Square.  A wide road used for parades and ceremonies surrounded by government and communist buildings including the National Assembly, Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, Presidential Palace, Communist Party Headquarters and Government Headquarters. Many are well guarded and forbidden to take photos of. 

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum.  A communist style mausoleum housing the embalmed body of Ho Chi Minh, the founder of modern day Vietnam. 

One Pillar Pagoda.  A pagoda attached to a singular round column in a the middle of a koi and lily pond. Steps walk up to it where there is a shrine for prayers and offerings.

O Quan Chuong (Old East Gate). The only remaining city gate from ancient Hanoi. Its arched red brick and stone gate has a small pagoda on top. It’s only large enough for scooters and pedestrians to pass through. 

Quan Thanh Temple.  A Taoist temple dating back to the founding of ancient Hanoi over 1,000 years ago. Inside is a giant bronze statue of Tao and elaborate altars with offerings. The temple’s walls, doors and columns are decorated in gold painted motifs of clouds and dragons, calligraphy inlaid with mother of pearl and painted reliefs of white tigers, water dragons, cranes and flowering cherry blossom trees.

Things to Do

Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre.  Vietnamese water puppets are a traditional form of entertainment and story telling dating back hundreds of years. At the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre, live musicians, singers and puppeteers put on a beautiful performance depicting over a dozen scenes from Vietnamese folklore and legends. The puppets splash around on stage (aka a pool) against the back drop of a pagoda, disappearing behind a bamboo curtain when scenes change. We watched water dragons slinking back and forth, a comedic fishing scene, phoenixes laying and hatching an egg and Confucius ceremonies. 

Pro Tip. There are multiple shows daily running from afternoon to evening. Arrive at the theater in the morning to buy tickets. The best seats are in rows A, B and C. 

Good to Know. Be considerate and avoid taking repeated photos. It’s distracting to the people behind you. 

Visit the Incense Village.  Burning incense is a daily part of life in Vietnam. It’s commonly used in temples, restaurants and people’s homes. We visited one village where it’s produce, getting to make our own. We saw how raw bamboo is purged of insects, sun dried and then splintered by hand into thin sticks. The sticks are then hand dipped into a vat of red dye to give them their characteristic color. Once dyed, they’re fed into a machine that packs wet incense powder onto them. The incense powder we used was made from ground cinnamon and bamboo. Afterwards, we visited an “Instagram courtyard” covered in bundles of red incense sticks with areas for photo ops. We booked our tour with Tinny Travel on Viator. 

Learn about Conical Hat Making.  Conical hats, called Nón lá in Vietnamese are commonly worn by women to protect from the sun and rain. On our Incense Village Tour, we visited a family home where they’re made, getting to see the stages and process involved in making a hat from start to finish. We painted our own hats inspired by the Temple of Literature and the One Pillar Pagoda. 

Shop at the Thien Thuat Market.  A farmers market lining the curbs of Thien Thuat Street and the adjacent roads in Hanoi’s Old Town. Local merchants display baskets and plastic bins with a variety of goods including meats, seafood, vegetables, fruits, herbs, dried goods and noodles. We shopped here for groceries to cook several of our own meals. 

Pro Tip. Ask around and haggle over prices with vendors before buying. 

Ha Long Bay

Ha Long Bay is one of Vietnam’s many natural wonders and was a highlight of our trip. It’s famed for its hundreds of towering stone islands that sharply rise from the water. Their sheer faces and craggily slopes are covered in patches of foliage. Some are home to caves, coves and beaches. At the time, clouds gave the islands a mystifying appearance. The best way to experience the bay is by boat. 

Sung Sot Cave.  The largest cave in Ha Long Bay. A staircase leads up a karst island to the mouth of the cave. Inside are a series of chambers, each grander than the next. The cave walls are covered in stalactites that drip down to the floor. The ceilings are sculpted into a smooth and rippled pattern from lapping water. The final chamber is absolutely massive. A trail meanders deep into its interior past a large stone column before looping back out. 

Ti Top Island.  A popular island with a yellow sand beach and mountaintop lookout. A 400 step staircase leads to a pagoda with panoramic views of the bay’s karst islands, blue tinted water and anchored ships. It was too cold to swim at the time but we enjoyed the beach and scenery from shore.

Hang Luon Cove. A cove in the middle of a karst island, only accessible through a shallow cave. We kayaked through the cave and around the cove where we were surrounded by steep cliffs and dark green water. We spotted wild monkeys sitting and running along the rocks. 

Le Journey.  We booked an overnight tour of Ha Long Bay with a company called Le Journey. Their beautiful wooden ship has private cabins, a communal dining room and a rooftop deck and bar. The energetic crew kept us and other guests entertained with multiple excursions and activities like squid fishing, a cooking lesson and karaoke. The chef prepared delicious meals including local dishes like Ha Long Bay squid, jellyfish salad and fried rice. The tour included transportation between our stay in Hanoi and the Tuan Chau International Marina about 2 hours 30 minutes away. 

Good to Know.  The sights we visited are some of the most popular in Ha Long Bay. Many tour companies follow the same schedule meaning that hundreds of tourists will descend upon them at the same time. Though crowded, the nature is no less beautiful and time on the boat offers a quiet reprieve. 

Vietnamese Street Food

Street food is popular across Vietnam, especially at night markets. We tried several dishes and treats along the streets of Hanoi. 

• Keo Cu Đo (Rice Paper Candy).  A molasses-like paste mixed with peanuts and sandwiched between two rice paper wafers 

• Bao (Steamed Buns).  Steams bread rolls often shaped like lotus flower. A popular way to eat them is deep fried with a drizzle of sweetened condensed milk. 

• Banh Tieu (Vietnamese Donuts).  Tiny dough balls covered in sesame seeds or sugar glazed and filled with mung bean paste.

• Bánh Rán (Sesame Balls).  Deep fried gelatinous rice balls filled with sweetened bean paste and coated in toasted sesame seeds.

• Banh Dong Xu (Golden Coin Cake).  A sweet pancake filled with mozzarella cheese and griddled in a mold of a Korean coin. it’s a popular street food, often served hot for its long stringy cheese pull.

• Khoai Tay Loc Xoay (Tornado Potatoes).  Hand-cut slices of skewered and twice fried potatoes resembling a vortex. They’re often covered in mayo and sweet chili sauce.

• Bach Tuoc Nuong (Grilled Octopus).  Skewered and barbecued octopus legs cooked over a coal grill.  

• Mực Khô Nướng (Grilled Dried Squid).  A whole dried squid cooked over a charcoal grill. It has a jerky-like texture and is served with sweet chili sauce. 

Vietnamese Cuisine 

• Banh Mi.  A beloved Vietnamese sandwich famed for its baguette style bread baked with a crunchy exterior and pillowy interior. It’s traditionally stuffed with cilantro, cucumber, carrots and meat or tofu.  

• Pho.  A Vietnamese soup made with a base savory broth boiled with warm spices like star anise, cinnamon and ginger. It’s served with rice noodles, vegetables, meat or tofu. 

• Rice Noodles.  Thin and sticky white noodles made from rice flour. They’re served in many dishes or on the side. 

• Cha Ca.  A beloved local dish is made from snakehead fish marinated in turmeric and galangal and sautéed with a mixture of fresh herbs including turmeric, cilantro, dill, spring onions and garlic. It’s served alongside rice noodles, peanuts and chili peppers. 

• Jellyfish Salad.  A salad made from thinly sliced strips of jellyfish mixed with pickled carrots, cucumber, onion in a soy sauce and sesame oil mixture. It has a characteristically crunchy texture and umami forward taste. 

Vietnamese Coffee 

Coffee culture is a popular part of daily life in Vietnam. Street cafes with tiny folding chairs and stackable plastic furnishings commonly spill out onto sidewalks. Groups of locals sit around sipping on their preferred style of coffee often alongside a glass of hot green tea. Typical coffees are: 

• Vietnamese Coffee.  The most popular preparation style, mixed with sweetened condensed milk and served hot or iced. 

• Egg Coffee.  A creamy coffee mixed with whipped egg yolk and sweetened condensed milk. 

• Salt Coffee.  A sweet and savory coffee mixed with salted cream and often dusted in cocoa powder. 

• Coconut Coffee. A thick and sweet coffee mixed with coconut cream. 

• Three in One.  An instant coffee mixture made with coffee crystals, powdered cream and sugar. 

Places to Eat and Drink

Lan Ong Restaurant.  An elevated restaurant serving contemporary adaptations of Vietnamese cuisine. Dishes are beautifully presented and the atmosphere is warm and inviting. Try the Cha Ca served in a clay pot over a wood burning flame, the jellyfish salad made with green papaya & grapefruit, the seafood curry made with prawns & crab claws and for dessert, the sweet potato creme brûlée. 

Cha Ca La Vong.  An extremely local restaurant on the second floor of a historic home, serving Hanoi’s famed dish Cha Ca. The cook brings out a personal grill, pan with the sizzling fish and bowl of herbs. It’s all sautéed together until blanched and aromatic.

Coffee A.  A cafe on a corner in the old quarter with classic Vietnamese coffees. Sit at the wrap around balcony on the second floor overlooking the chaotic street and intersection below. 

Hoangs.  A restaurant with Vietnamese and South East Asian rice and noodles dishes. Try the vegetable fried rice and stir fried rice noodles with seafood.

Tet Restaurant.  A vegetarian Vietnamese restaurant with national and local dishes like pho and fried spring rolls made with fresh vegetables and house made tempe. 

Com Tam Lam Sai Ghenh.  An unassuming restaurant on the Tong Duy Tan Food Street with Vietnamese dishes and hot pot. We shared a seafood hot pot made in a boiling pot of savory broth with a mixture of fresh clams, squid, prawns, tofu, greens and ramen. 

Kem Dua Coffee (Tower Cafe).  A narrow multi-floor cafe with Vietnamese coffees and views of Ho Tay Lake. After climbing 6 floors for a seat, we nicknamed it tower cafe. 

Givral French Bakery.  A chain bakery with French patisserie. We stopped in for a slice of pineapple roll cake and a miniature chantilly cream bouche. 

Ta Ta Cafe.  A cafe with artisan coffees hidden on the second floor of a dilapidated French colonial building. A giant tree grows out of its yellow painted facade while a sign reading “coffee bar” leads up a rickety wooden staircase to its entrance. 

Where to Stay

We stayed on the second floor of an Airbnb in the Old Quarter. It’s near many of the famous streets, central sights, sidewalk cafes and bars we visited. The room was spacious with a balcony overlooking the street, a shared kitchen and roof top washer/dryer.

Getting Around

Grab.  A taxi hailing app similar to Uber or Lyft. Taxis were readily available on the app and cheap to get around the city or from the airport. 

On Foot.  The city is walkable however sidewalks are often blocked by street restaurants, parked scooters and merchandise from shops. Be cautious when crossing roads, watching for cars and scooters. 

Location Specifics

Cash vs Card.  Most businesses and vendors are cash only. Clothing shops often accept card with a 1-3% fee. 

Vegetarian Food.  Vegetarian dishes are popular and easy to spot on menus. The word “Chay”after any dish means it’s vegetarian. 

Safety.  Vietnam is generally a safe country to visit. The ancient town of Hoi An is no exception. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Vietnamese are openly welcoming of LGBTQ+ travelers. When noticing our wedding rings, local women would ask how long we’ve been married and call us a happy couple.

Language.  Vietnamese and English are widely spoken, seen on street signs and restaurant menus across the country. That said, it’s still good to know a few Vietnamese phrases.

• Hello = Xin chào (Sing-Chow

• Thank you = Cảm ơn (Com-Un)

• Good bye = Tạm biệt (Tam-Be-Et)

• See you later = Hẹn gặp lại (Hen-Gap-Lie)

Local Customs

• Take shoes off when visiting homes and most temples. 

• Dress modestly when visiting temples. No hats, shorts or sleeveless shirts are allowed. 

• Hand things to people with two hands, especially cash, credit cards or the bill.

• Avoid pointing at anything or anyone using an index finger. Use your full hand instead. 

• Showing the bottom of your feet or shoe to someone is considered extremely rude or offensive, especially at temples. 

When to Visit

There really is no “low” season in Vietnam. It’s a popular destination at all times of year. We visited in mid February, after the “high” season which runs from November to January. The weather was chilly, cloudy and rainy. According to several locals, this was atypical for this time of year. Thankfully it was not a deterrent to enjoying our time in this beautiful city. 

Elsewhere in Vietnam 

We spent nearly a month traveling across Vietnam, exploring its lively cities and beautiful landscapes. Along the way, we immersed ourselves in the country’s rich culture, history and craftsmanship while savoring Vietnamese cuisine, coffee and street food. Visit the ancient town of Hoi An for Vietnamese street food and the nightly lantern festival. Row through the karst mountains and caves of Ninh Binh past lush rice paddies and historic temples. Get lost in the vibrant city and nightlife of Saigon.

For Next Time…

Vietnam is a massive country with so much breathing nature. When we return, we have several sights in the north and middle of the country we hope to visit. 

Camping inside Hang Son Doong.  A massive cave system with underground campsites, rivers and hiking trails. It can be expensive and difficult to reach but is top of our list for our next trip to Vietnam. 

Bai Tu Long Bay.  An alternate to Ha Long Bay with many similar rock formations and islands. It’s said to be less busy and equally if not more beautiful. 

Mu Cang Chai Rice Terrace.  Sprawling rice terraces in a mountainous valley about 300km northwest of Hanoi. 

Ban Gioc Waterfalls.  A series of cascading waterfalls in the jungle on the boarder of Vietnam and China. 

Hoi An, Vietnam

Hoi An, Vietnam

Hoi An is a historic and bustling Vietnamese city famed for its culture, handmade goods and markets. Paper lanterns hang above streets between wooden and yellow painted houses. Vendors sell produce in baskets along the curbs. Locals wearing conical hats zip by on scooters. The smell of incense and street food wafts through the air. Ornate temples welcome visitors and worshippers. Makers work away at craft studios and measure customers at custom tailoring shops. 

The Ancient Town

The Ancient Town is the epicenter of history, culture and activity in Hoi An. Its old houses, ornate temples and bridges are discoverable when walking down the narrow streets and alleyways. Colorful lanterns and banners of the Vietnamese and Communist flags hang overhead. Shops sell locally produced silks, leather goods, linen outfits, custom clothing and knock off name brands. Restaurants and cafes spill out onto the sidewalks serving Vietnamese dishes and coffee. The town comes to life at night for the daily lantern festival, night markets and street food. 

Hoi An Ancient Town Ticket.  We were required to buy a ticket to enter the Ancient Town. It allowed us access to 5 different sights over three days. Occasionally, officials will ask to see and scan the ticket when entering town. They can be purchased at most cultural sights. 

Ancient Town Waterfront.  A promenade lined with historic buildings, bridges, shops, restaurants and cafes with curbside patios overlooking the river. Tour guides offer sightseeing tours on colorful boats. At night, it becomes the sight of the daily lantern festival.

Ancient Town Sights

Japanese Bridge.  A Japanese style wooden bridge and gate to the Ancient Town. It’s painted red with an ornate tiled roof depicting a traditional merchant boat. Inside is an arched walkway and a small temple. The bridge is featured on the 20,000 Dong banknote. 

Cam Nam Bridge.  A landmark bridge connecting the Ancient Town with An Hoi. It lights up at night and it a popular spot view the colorful lights, lanterns and boats during the lantern festival.

Hoi An Old Houses.  Dark wooden and yellow painted houses with mossy clay tiled roofs characteristic of the Ancient Town. Many houses date back hundreds of years, some still home to the original families and others are now museums. 

• Quan Thang Old House.  A historic merchant house from the 17th century. Its architectural style is recognized as one of the most beautiful homes in Hoi An with its single floor design, wooden facade and arched and clay tiled roof.

• Phung Hung Old House.  A two floor merchant house with Japanese and Chinese architectural influences, tall ironwood beams, a second floor balcony, a clay tiled roof and mother of pearl inlaid furniture. 

• Tran Family Chapel.  A historic home belonging to the same family for over 200 years. Inside is a chapel dedicated to their ancestors. It has an alter with photos and drawings of deceased family members surrounded by paper lanterns, flowers and citrus offerings. 

Temples and Pagodas.  The Ancient Town has several temples and pagodas where people worship, meditate and make offerings. 

• Phuoc Kien Hoi Quan.  A temple dedicated to a sea goddess with an ornate pagoda style entry gate, sculptures of scaled fish and a fountain with a dragon above koi pond. Inside, sculptures of Confucius sit behind gold and red altars as smoldering coils of spiraled incense hang from the ceiling. 

• Ong Pagoda.  An ancient pagoda and temple dating back over 1,000 years with traditional designs like red painted wooden columns, paper lanterns, an altar and a sculptural koi pond. It’s a quiet and peaceful place to visit. The smell of incense, the sound water circulating and echo of the gong quickly become therapeutic.

• The Ba Mu Temple Gate.  A 600 year old temple gate covered in reliefs and carvings of flowers, calligraphy and geometric designs. It has a circular portal at its center and doorways leading through it. It used to connect two temples that no longer exist today. 

Hoi An Traditional Art Performance House.  A historic theater offering 30 minute cultural performances and shows. We listened to musicians play flutes, drums and strings, saw dancers perform graceful acts in traditional outfits and were introduced to the game of Bai Choi.

The Lantern Festival

A nightly festival held along the waterfront with thousands of glowing and candlelit lanterns illuminating the Ancient Town. Delicate flames of paper lanterns flicker as they float along the water. Small row boats are illuminated by orbs of light. The water shimmers with the reflection of colorful lights dancing on it. Vendors offer boat rides and sell paper lanterns. We were rowed along the canal and released a paper lantern into the water, each making a wish and relating positive thoughts into the world. 

Participate in Bai Choi

Bai Choi is a Vietnamese folk game that combines various art forms including calligraphy, music and dance. 

The Rules. Bai Choi is a group game, where huts of players compete against each other. Each hut is given a paddle with 3 columns of calligraphy on it. As the game begins, a “chanter” pulls a bamboo card from a basket decorated in a singular column of calligraphy. The “chanter” then weaves the calligraphy into a song and holds it up for players to match. A hut is given a yellow flag each time they match a column. Once one hut matches all 3 columns, the game ends. 

Bai Choi Hoi An.  A Bai Choi theater with nightly games. We arrived early and sat in a bamboo hut waiting for the game to start. We purchased two paddles from the “chanter” as more players arrived. A band began performing as the charter pulled the first card. As the game went on, we matched two of the three columns before another hut won. It was an incredibly fun and lively game! 

An Hoi Island

An Hoi is an island neighborhood directly across the river from the Ancient Town. Many streets are draped with colorful lanterns and banners of the Vietnamese and Communist flags. It’s a popular place to stay due to its proximity to the Ancient Town with a large number guest houses and hotels. The waterfront becomes a hub for nightlife with animated bars, street food vendors, a night market and the lantern festival. 

Shop the Markets

Nguyen Hoang Street & Night Market.  A street dissecting the center of An Hoi with lantern shops, a vibrant night market and street food vendors. As the lantern festival starts, merchants set up carts stocked with clothes, jewelry, accessories and souvenirs in the center of the street. It’s the best street to place to try all manner of Vietnamese street food, especially near the waterfront. We tried several dishes two nights in a row.  

Cho Tan An Market.  Also called the Tiger Market, Cho Tan An is a traditional Vietnamese farmers market with tables of vendors set up under a canopy of tin roofs and tarp covered tents. Cash in hand, we visited buying groceries for the week. Baskets are filled with vegetables, fruits and herbs including dragon fruit, bok choy, lychee, rose apples, durian, napa cabbage, rambutan and basil. Living and freshly caught seafood like crabs, shrimp, fish, eel and clams are displayed on tables. Butchers slice meats, pluck ducks and shave pig skin. Elsewhere, merchants sell quail eggs, buckets of tofu, piles of rice noodles, dried mushrooms, rice paper, fish sauces, chili oils and fresh cut flowers.  

Hoi An Market.  A large market in the ancient city held underneath a series of sheds with vendors selling produce, meats, seafood and dry goods. It’s similar to the Tiger Market with the addition of merchants selling souvenirs and Vietnamese dishes. The market spills out into the surrounding streets and along the waterfront. 

Hoi An Fabric Market.  A large textile market lined with bolts of fabrics, booths with tailors and custom clothing makers. It’s popular to have formal wear like suits and dresses made here. Vendors can produce anything using inspiration photos and have look books to choose from. They can be overly pushy when walking through the market so only come here if you’re serious about having something made. 

The Spice Route by Ms Vy.  A market selling herbal rice wines, candied ginger, almond cookies, aromatic soaps, medicinal teas and spices. The market leads unto a small courtyard with a cafe and up to a rooftop with views of the riverfront. It’s located inside a historic home and former maternity hospital. 

Coconut Basket Boats

One of the most popular activities in Hoi An is the experiencing coconut basket boats and getting spun around a rapid speeds. The round boats are traditionally woven baskets used by locals for stability while fishing the coastal waters. Paired with an energetic guide, he paddled us through the palm covered channels of the coconut island. We saw locals harvesting palm leaves for thatched roofs, watched a net fishing demonstration, paddled the boat ourselves and of course got spot around! We booked ahead of time, including roundtrip transportation from our homestay with Green Coconut Village Cooking Tour.

My Son Sanctuary 

My Son Sanctuary is a mountainous temple complex dedicated to the Hindu god, Shiva. It dates back to the 4th century and underwent continual expansion for 1,000 years afterwards. The sanctuary is the largest complex of its kind in South East Asia. It’s comprised of multiple groupings built from stacked ochre colored bricks and carved sandstone blocks used to create temples, gates, columns, altars and shrines. The complex was heavily destroyed during the US bombing of Vietnam. Fortunately, many of the temples have been restored, others remain crumbling and some are still buried and overgrown. Pathways lead between multiple temple groupings, many of which can we walked through and entered. 

Group M.  A platform and temple with the crumbling brick tower gate dating back to the 13th century.

Groups B and C.  The main temple complex dating back over 1,000 years with a temple dedicated to Shiva and multiple halls for mediation and prayer. We walked around the ruins, viewing carvings of Shiva, past fallen columns, and inside the still standing dark meditation halls. 

Group A.  A temple complex with brick structures and sandstone altars completely destroyed by bombing. 

Group G.  A temple with ornate reliefs of the faces of Hindi deities carved into the sandstone and brick at its base.

Group E.  A grouping of temples including a well preserved prayer hall and stelae covered in ancient Sanskrit. Some ruins are under restoration and some still buried beneath grassy hill. The site is scared with bomb craters. 

Group K.  A linear platform with an ornate and leaning brick temple at its end. 

Getting Here.  We booked a roundup shuttle from Hoi A departing at 8am and retuning at 1pm. The ruins are about 1 hour from the city. We had nearly 3 hours to explore them on our own time. We booked with Hoi An Food Tour - Private Day Tours. 

Vietnamese Street Food

Vietnamese street food is a part of daily life across the country and ubiquitous with its cuisine. We ate street food daily as a quick snack and food crawled through the night markets. 

• Banh Trang Nuon (Vietnamese Pizza).  A sheet of rice paper covered in toppings like fried onion, spring onion, tofu, mayo and spicy sauce, placed over a coal grill, folded in half and crisped. 

• Bánh Xoái (Mango Cake).  A gelatinous rice cake covered in cornstarch and filled with roasted peanuts and sugar. 

• Banh Gio (Rice Dumpling).  A triangular shaped dumpling made from gelatinous rice wrapped and served in a banana leaf. It’s often stuffed with savory ingredients. 

• Chuoi Nep Nuong (Grilled Rice Banana).  A fist sized nugget of sticky rice wrapped around a banana filling and grilled over a coal fire. It’s sliced up and covered in a drizzle of sweetened condensed milk.

• Bao (Steamed Buns).  Steams rolls of bread often shaped like lotus leaves. They’re often deep fried and drizzled with sweetened condensed milk. 

• Bánh Rán (Sesame Balls).  Deep fried gelatinous rice balls filled with sweetened bean paste and coated in toasted sesame seeds.

• Khoai Tay Loc Xoay (Tornado Potatoes).  Hand-cut slices of skewered and twice fried potatoes resembling a vortex. They’re often covered in mayo and sweet chili sauce.

• Bach Tuoc Nuong (Grilled Octopus).  Skewered and barbecued octopus legs cooked over a coal grill.  

• Dau Bap (Okra).  Skewers of grilled and charred okra. 

• Mực Khô Nướng (Grilled Dried Squid).  A whole dried squid cooked over a charcoal grill. It has a jerky-like texture and is served with sweet chili sauce. 

• Tôm Hùm Nướng (Grilled Lobster).  A freshly caught whole lobster, sliced in half, barbecued over a charcoal grill and covered in pan fried garlic and shallots. 

• Bánh Trung Thu Tím (Sweet Potato Mooncakes).  Pucks made from a mixture of purple sweet potato, coconut and mung bean purée. 

• Banana Pancakes.  Envelope shaped crepes filled with sliced bananas and covered in a drizzle of sweetened condensed milk. 

• Thai Ice Cream.  Also known as rolled ice cream, it’s a popular dessert mixed with coconut, banana, pineapple or mango. 

• Street Cocktails.  A street style bar cart with local beers and a menu of classic cocktails. We ordered late night drinks and watched the lantern festival along the river. 

Vietnamese Cuisine 

• Rice Noodles.  Thin and sticky white noodles made from rice flour. They’re served in many dishes or on the side. 

• Pho.  A Vietnamese soup made with a base or rice noodles, vegetables, meat or tofu and a savory broth boiled with warm spices like star anise, cinnamon and ginger. 

• Banh Mi.  A beloved Vietnamese sandwich famed for its baguette style bread baked with a crunchy exterior and pillowy interior. It’s traditionally stuffed with cilantro, cucumber, carrots and meat or tofu.  

• Cao Lâu.  A noodle dish hyperlocal to Hoi An made from rice noodles soaked in lye water and served with meat, greens, herbs, bean sprouts and broth. It can be made vegetarian with tempe or tofu. 

• Bún Hué.  A traditional rice noodle dish made with beef, vegetables and greens in a savory and spicy broth.  It can be made vegetarian with tempe or tofu. 

• Spring Rolls.  A deep fried roll of crispy dough often stuffed with cooked vegetables, herbs and meats or tofu. 

• Summer Rolls.  A roll of gelatinous rice paper wrapped around a salad of raw cucumber, carrot, cilantro, cabbage and occasionally cooked shrimp. It’s served cold. 

• Rose Dumpling.  A rice dumpling filled with onions, mushrooms and meat bathed in a savory sauce and garnished with fried onions. We tried a plate of them at the Hoi An Market.

• Banana Blossom Salad.  A salad combined with sliced banana blossoms, carrots, green papaya, onions and cilantro tossed in a citric fish sauce. 

• Black Sesame Soup.  A creamy and rich soup made from black sesame seeds and sweetened with purple potatoes. For decades, a couple would prepare and serve it on the streets to locals. It’s now served in their family home by the son. We sat down with him and enjoyed a cup of the soup while chatting about Vietnamese culture and sipping on tea. 

• Chao (Rice Porridge).  A thick porridge made from overcooked rice with a jammy egg, cilantro leaves, chopped spring onion, fish sauce, chili oil and sesame oil. It’s popular for breakfast. 

• Mango Sticky Rice.  Sticky rice served with sliced mango and often eaten at breakfast. It originates in Thailand but is popular across Vietnam. 

• Tropical Fruits.  Some to try are dragon fruit, pomelo, rose apple, mango, rambutan, papaya and lychee. 

• Tiger Beer.  One of the national beers sold across Vietnam. It’s a lager with a light and slightly citric flavor. The bottle or can is recognizable by its logo of a tiger. 

Vietnamese Coffee 

The coffee culture in Vietnam is a popular part of daily life. Countless street cafes spill out onto the sidewalks with locals sipping on their preferred style. 

• Vietnamese Coffee.  The most popular preparation style, mixed with sweetened condensed milk and served hot or iced. 

• Egg Coffee.  A creamy coffee mixed with whipped egg yolk and sweetened condensed milk. 

• Salt Coffee.  A sweet and savory coffee mixed with salted cream and often dusted in cocoa powder. 

• Coconut Coffee. A thick and sweet coffee mixed with coconut cream. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Pháp Hoà Vegan.  A vegan restaurant with a rotating daily menu of traditional Vietnamese noodle dishes and soups. The owner and cook prepared us bowls of Cao Lâu Chay and Bún Hué Chay. 

Bahn Mi Phuong.  A very popular restaurant to taste the beloved Vietnamese sandwich, Bahn Mi. The restaurant is set up similar to a NYC deli with a list of options and a fast paced ordering counter. We both ordered the vegetarian option with tofu. 

Tropical Home Craft Beer & Cocktail Bar.  A hidden bar down a narrow alleyway with local beers and strong tiki drinks served in tiki mugs with a miniature Vietnamese hats on top. We ordered the Zombie and Tropical Love You. 

Reaching Out Teahouse.  A traditional Vietnamese tea house operated by deaf and mute individuals. Silence is observed and orders are placed by using hand gestures and blocks with written phrases. We ordered a Vietnamese tea tasting with herbal, green and oolong teas paired with cookies and snacks. 

Market Bar Hoi An.  A second floor bar with an outdoor patio above the Hoi An Fabric Market. They concoct house infused gins with local flavors like pho, mangosteen, rose, nectarine and plum. We sipped on gin and tonics while watching scooters weave through the chaotic intersection below. 

Little Faifo Restaurant and Bar.  An old wooden house converted into a restaurant with Vietnamese dishes. We dined on their romantic balcony under the glow of the red lanterns looking over the street below. Order the banana blossom salad topped with grilled shrimp and calamari. 

Hoi An Ancient Remedy. A dim sum restaurant with herbal cocktails and rice wines located inside of a historic house. We tried the Ginseng Herbal Wine and The King Herbal Wine. The first had a bitter herbal flavor and the second tasted of warm spices and herbs. Each 100ml bottle was poured over ice with a slice of lime.

Hai San Hoi An.  A waterfront cafe in the ancient town serving Vietnamese coffees like egg and salt coffee. 

Vietnamese Crafts 

Hoi An is regionally known for its artwork and crafts including ink wash painting, lantern making, silk weaving, wood carvings and pottery.  

Silk Making.  We visited Daisu Silk, a boutique and a processing studio where silk is milled. We watched as women hand spun silk fibers into string and weaved bolts of pure silk fabric on antique wooden looms. They sell one of a kind hand painted silk squares available in 3 sizes. Prices are significantly higher than anywhere else in the ancient city, starting at about $100 USD. Visiting the shop and studio is free.

Ink Wash Painting.  A painting technique used by artists to brush ink and water onto paper or silk to create art. We watched street artists paint scenes from around Hoi An including cityscapes, landscapes and the Japanese Bridge. 

Lantern Making.  Lanterns are a huge part of Vietnamese culture and many are made in Hoi An. We visited the Hang Dung Lantern Making Class, where tourists can paint their own lanterns. With little space to bring one home, we watched as others painted their own.

Pottery Making.  Behind the Reaching Out Teahouse is a shop with handmade tea sets and a studio where ceramics are decorated with gold rims, copper handles and silver designs. We watched as artisans hand sawed, hammered and filed metal to complete the ceramics. 

Wood Carving.  Wood carving is an ancient tradition used to decorate the wooden elements of homes and temples in Hoi An. Today, artists use hammers and chisels to sculpt faces out of bamboo roots as souvenirs. 

Linen & Leather Goods 

Throughout Hoi An, many shops sell high quality handmade linen and leather goods including bags, shoes and accessories, offering one of a kind customizations. 

Helen Leather. The place to buy boots in Hoi An! I customized every element of each pair, selecting the design, shape, stitching, sole, color and softness. After negotiating on price, they measured my feet and began working on my order, completing them in 24 hours. 

Leather Shop New Fashion.  A leather goods shop with shoes, boots, bags, wallets and other accessories. I bought an off the shelf laptop bag and had a custom cord organizer made to pair with it. 

Leather & Suede Shop.  A shop specializing in leather backpacks, duffels, purses, messenger bags and wallets. I bought a minimally designed flip top backpack. 

Instyle Boutique Clothing.  A linen wear shop with modern handmade pieces of clothing including button down shirts, vests, dresses, one piece jumpsuits, pants and shorts. I bought a hand painted linen shirt. 

Where to Stay

Arabica Coffee & Homestay.  A cafe with Vietnamese coffees and rental units above its storefront. We stayed here for the week, enjoying coffees by morning and relaxing in our room and the communal kitchen during the evening. It’s located just outside of the ancient town in a very walkable area. Reserve on Booking. 

Getting Around

Grab Taxis.  Widely available on the Grab App and cheap to get around town as well as between Hoi An and the Da Nang Airport.

On Foot.  The ancient town and surrounding neighborhoods are easily walkable. Be cautious when crossing roads, double checking for scooters.

By Scooter.  Though we didn’t rent them, scooters are the most popular and local way to get around the city. We saw some rentals for $5 USD per day. 

Sightseeing Rickshaw.  A three wheeled bicycle with a seat for one or two people in front of the driver. Many tourists hire one to tour them around the ancient town.

Location Specifics

Cash vs Card.  Most businesses and vendors are cash only. Clothing shops often accept card with a 1-3% fee. 

Vegetarian Food.  Vegetarian dishes are popular and easy to spot on menus. The word “Chay” after any dish means it’s vegetarian. 

Safety.  Vietnam is generally a safe country to visit. The ancient town of Hoi An is no exception. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Vietnamese are openly welcoming of LGBTQ+ travelers. When noticing our wedding rings, local women would ask how long we’ve been married and call us a happy couple.

Language.  Vietnamese and English are widely spoken, seen on street signs and restaurant menus across the country. That said, it’s still good to know a few Vietnamese phrases.

• Hello = Xin chào (Sing-Chow)

• Thank you = Cảm ơn (Com-Un)

• Good bye = Tạm biệt (Tam-Be-Et)

• See you later = Hẹn gặp lại (Hen-Gap-Lie)

Local Customs

• Take shoes off when visiting homes and temples. 

• Dress modestly when visiting temples. No hats, shorts or sleeveless shirts. 

• Hand things to people with two hands. 

• Avoid pointing at anything or anyone using an index finger. Use your full hand instead. 

• Crossing arms or pointing the soles of feet at anyone is considered rude. 

Elsewhere in Vietnam 

We spent nearly a month traveling across Vietnam, exploring its lively cities and beautiful landscapes. Along the way, we immersed ourselves in the country’s rich culture, history and craftsmanship while savoring Vietnamese cuisine, coffee and street food. Explore the bustling capital city and chaotic of Hanoi or venture out of the city to the islands of Ha Long Bay. Row through the karst mountains and caves of Ninh Binh past lush rice paddies and historic temples. Get lost in the vibrant city and nightlife of Saigon.

For Next Time…

Cham Islands.  A coastal bio reserve and marine sactuary made up of several islands, coral reefs and local fishing villages. We had booked a tour but it was canceled due to bad weather. 

Ba Na Hills.  An amusement park in Da Nang famed for its bridge being held up by a pair of hands. We had planned to visited but were delayed by a day flying into Vietnam and missed our date. 

Da Nang.  The main city to fly into and reach Hoi An from. Next time, we’ll spend time here exploring its urban culture, beaches and nearby mountains like Marble Mountain and Monkey Mountain. 

Coastal Bali

Welcome to Bali

Bali is an Indonesian Island known for its rich culture and surreal nature with near endless things to do, see and try. During our two week trip, we ventured to various areas around the island: exploring the relaxed seaside neighborhood of Canggu, the tropical palm covered Gili Islands and the cliffside Bukit Peninsula. Read our guide on Ubud for more to do in Bali.

Canggu 

Canggu is a trendy and relaxing place to soak up tropical vibes, overcome jet lag, meet other travelers and get a better idea of what to do and see around Bali. It is a great entry point to spend your first couple of days on the Island. The neighborhood has a chill vibe with many surfers and digital nomads vacationing. There are cute shops, vegan cafes, black sand beaches and lush rice fields. Spend a good amount of time on the beach, day or night but also explore the streets extending deeper into Canggu. There are a ton of great restaurants, cafes and bars to stumble upon. 

Getting Around

• The fastest way to get around is by scooter but Canggu can easily be explored on foot.

• Scooters range from 50-70K Rp per day (less than $5 USD) or 600K Rp per month ($43 USD)

• For safety and to avoid a fine, always wear a helmet while riding a scooter

• Carry a flashlight at night when walking along the roads. There are not many streetlights making it difficult to see and be seen.

• Roads are often narrow and congested during rush hour.

• Perpendicular from the shore are 3 main streets extending deep into Canggu. Also wander the side streets and pathways.

Enjoy the Beaches

Batu Bolong & Canggu Beaches.  Easily the most popular and beautiful beaches in Canggu. There are plenty of restaurants, bars and beach clubs to find a lounge for the afternoon, watch the sunset, meet other travelers and enjoy the tropical vibes. Both beaches are known for their beginner and intermediate surf spots with many any beachfront businesses renting surf boards and offering lessons.

Echo Beach. Black sand beach with a seaside temple and a small cliff lined with cafes, barbecue restaurants and surf rentals.

Berawa Beach. A smaller and quieter beach away from the larger clubs with beach shacks, fisherman boats, rentable lounges and surf lessons.

Good to Know

• Canggu, like many places in Bali have black sand due to the volcanic soil of the island.

• The beaches are easily walkable with numerous surf snacks, beach clubs, restaurants and cafes to rent lounges, watch the sunset and enjoy a meal.

• There are friendly stray dogs roaming around the island, you’ll often encounter several playing and looking for food along the beaches.

Beach Clubs

Beach clubs are a very popular way to enjoy the Balinese beaches. They can range from small oceanfront shacks offering lounges and drinks to large open air buildings with infinity pools, live music and several bars. They make for a great place to relax during the afternoon heat, enjoy the sunset or party at night. 

La Brisa.  A beachside, mostly outdoor and open air restaurant that felt like walking through a tropical treehouse. The food and drinks here are delicious and the vibe was relaxing even during the busier hour of service. Like many places in Canggu, the sunset here was spectacular. 

The Lawn.  A casual beachside restaurant known for its faux lawn, infinity pool, cocktails and food.

Finn’s Beachclub.  A large, high-end and popular beach club recognized by it’s giant bamboo and thatched building. Finn’s is home to several pools, restaurants and bars often playing live music. You pay 750K+ Rp ($53USD) to enter which reserves your lounge or table and can be redeemed for food and drinks. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Canggu is known for its food scene. There are endless options to try traditional Balinese food, locally grown fruits, vegan meals and Australian inspired “brekkie.”

Warungs are restaurants serving a buffet of dishes and plates of fresh made, inexpensive and traditional Balinese cuisine. 

Bali Bowls or smoothie bowls are mixtures of puréed frozen fruits often decorated in fresh fruit, grains and flowers. They’re a healthy, filling and refreshing way to start the day. Almost every cafe offers their own versions.

Bintang is Bali’s regional beer. It’s very light and sold almost everywhere for 15K Rp or $1.

Shady Shack.  Located across from a rice field in an outdoor patio covered in tropical trees and plants. The menu is full of all kinds of colorful and creative vegan dishes. This is the perfect spot to come for Bali bowls and to drink kombucha through a papaya stem straw.

Gypsy Kitchen.  A great restaurant at any time of day but especially during breakfast for their delicious egg dishes and flavorful coffee.

Mocca.  An open air cafe with Bali bowls, fresh coconuts, and vegan dishes made with jackfruit and tempe.

Temples & Offerings 

The Balinese are very spiritual people, mostly practicing Hinduism. Their temples are easily recognized across the island and important places for families to gather. 

The Balinese leave daily offerings in front of their homes and business. These offerings are usually small, leaf woven baskets containing flowers, burning incense, cookies, candies and money. Out of respect, make sure not to step on them. 

Tanah Lot Temple

A short taxi ride from Canggu is Tanah Lot Temple. It holds a special importance to the Balinese as its 1 of 7 ocean temples built to protect Bali from evil sea spirits. The temple is perched on a rock formation only accessible during low tide. Non-Balinese are not allowed to enter but can view from the nearby cliffs and outcrops below. Nearby is are temple gates and a number of food stalls to buy young coconuts and klepon, a green rice ball with palm sugar inside and a coconut shaved exterior. 

Shop the Markets

Love Anchor Canggu.  An expansive indoor market with booths and vendors selling locally made home goods and crafts. You’ll often be offered a “special price.” Play along, haggle and never accept the first price. We picked up a pillow case and macrame plant holder for our apartment back in NYC. 

Gypsy Market at La Laguna.  A Sunday afternoon and evening market with live music, performers and vendors selling organic produce, cooked foods and hand made goods at La Laguna restaurant. 

Old Man’s Market.  Located in Old Man’s, a beer garden on Batu Bolong Beach, on the last Saturday of every month. The market hosts a mix of farmers, artisans, locals and expats all selling unique, sustainable and creative goods. If you’re not here while the market happens, the beer garden is a nice spot to grab a drink, watch the sunset or meet other travelers.

Things to Do 

Take a Surf Lesson. The best surf lessons can be found by walking the beach. Many instructors and businesses have signs offering board rentals for 50K Rp ($3.50 USD) or 400K Rp ($28 USD) for a 2h lesson. 

Get a Massage. Various types of massages are offered throughout Canggu and Bali in general for an affordable cost. Look for signs outside of businesses offering 60min or signature massage. It’s not uncommon to find one for 50-150K Rp ($3 - $11 USD) 

Join a Beach Cleanup. At times, the currents bring in tons of plastic waste floating in the ocean. Join a beach cleanup or simply do your part to pick up any plastic you see. 

Seminyak 

Neighboring Canggu, this dense area is known for its expat community, street-food, international restaurants, high-end beach clubs, pockets of LGBTQ nightlife and white sandy beaches. We spent most of our time nearby in Canggu but ventured into this neighborhood as we walked down the shoreline and in-land for a floating brunch.

Floating Brunch

Making time for a floating brunch is a must do in Bali. It’s a poolside meal artfully presented in a floating basket. We visited Cabina, a restaurant with a turquoise pool, cacti & palm trees and comfy lounges surrounded by pink painted walls. Spending all afternoon here, we shared a tropical meal complete with fresh fruits & juices, fluffy pancakes and various Balinese bites.

Seminyak & Double Six Beaches

The shoreline walk from Canggu to Seminyak takes about 30 minutes, depending on how many beachside stops you make. The main beach, Seminyak Beach, is a long stretch of mostly white powdery sand with surfing, large beach clubs and resorts. Past Seminyak Beach is Double Six Beach, a popular tourist beach with inexpensive food, drinks, chair, lounge and surf rentals.

The Gili Islands 

The Gili Islands are a series of three tiny islands off the coast of Lombok. We spent 4 days exploring the Gilis, bicycling through the palm groves, snorkeling in the ocean, watching for sea turtles and relaxing on the beach.

Gili Trawangan.  Also known as Gili T, this island is the largest of the three Gilis. It’s the island where we stayed while visiting. It is the most lively and popular place to stay with a large number of restaurants, bars and places to stay around the perimeter of the island. The interior of the island is covered in palm groves and the homes of local families. 

Gili Air.  Located just across from Lombok, Gili Air has uninterrupted views of Mt. Rinjani. Similar to Gili T but smaller in size, it is known for its dining, nightlife, marine activities and ocean swings. 

Gili Meno.  Located in-between Gili T and Gil Air, it is the smallest, quietest and most relaxing of the three islands. 

Getting Here

Take a Speed Boat. This is the fastest, safest and most hassle-free way to get between Bali and the Gili Islands. There are a number of departure points along the East side of Bali. Most speed boat companies can arrange transportation to bring you to the departure point from any location in Bali. We booked roundtrip tickets through Blue Water Express. Including luggage, transportation from Ubud and to our later accommodation in Bali, we paid 1.1m Rp each ($78 USD). Depending on your departure location, the speed boats can take anywhere from 2-4 hours. 

Getting Around

Rent a Bike. The Gilis are very small. Though they’re easily walkable, the best way to get around is on a bicycle. You can ride around the perimeter of the largest island in less than an hour or cross its center in 15 minutes. Most accommodations rent bikes for around 50K rp per day ($3.50 USD)

Island Hopping. Public boats ferry between each island’s main harbors at infrequent times between 9am and 4pm. Each trip takes about 30min and costs 25-50K Rp ($1.75 - $3.50 USD) Fast boats take about 15min and cost 85K - 100K Rp ($6 - $7 USD)

Gili T Beaches 

The island is essentially one giant beach paradise! Based on location, here’s our breakdown to exploring the different corners of the island.

East & South East.  The sandiest beaches and shallowest waters for swimming and sunbathing. Closest to the restaurants and bars of the main street.

North East.  Also known as Turtle Point, this is the best place to spot sea turtles. The shallow warm waters are home to sea grass where sea turtles feed. To spot them, rent a standup paddle or kayak and quietly wait in the water. The best time to go is before the snorkel tours show up at 10am. Eventually a sea turtle will poke its head above the water for air or even swim within feet of you. 

North.  Most beaches here are private for members of the resorts and hotels.

North West.  There are several restaurants with smaller crowds than the on the Eastside of the island.

West.  Nice restaurants to watch the sunsets and see Bali’s silhouette. The water is wavier due to the currents in the strait between Bali and Lombok. 

Southwest.  The best spot to watch the sunset over the Indian Ocean. A lot of diving tours frequent the waters on this side of the island to spot manta rays and sharks. 

South.  Mostly dead coral lining the beaches. 

Coral Reefs

We had read about the stunning coral reefs home to all manner of sea-life. Unfortunately, many of the coral reefs have suffered extreme bleaching due to rising sea temperatures in the shallow waters. During our snorkel tour, we only saw the occasional sign of life among the black and grey decaying coral reefs covering the ocean floor. This was evident on shore, especially along the west half of Gili T. Vast stretches of the beaches were covered in piles of dead coral that had washed up.

To protect yourself and the living coral, bring water shoes and coral safe sunblock. 

Things to Do

Go on a snorkeling tour! Many restaurants, dive school and guides along the main-street on Gili T will offer inexpensive snorkel tours around the Gili Islands. We only paid 50K Rp for a 4 hour snorkel tour ($3.50 USD)

On our tour, we snorkeled around the coast go Gili Meno where we saw the bleached reefs and an artificial reef called TheNest. The Nest is an underwater sculpture of human figures standing in a circle. After snorkeling here, we moved to an area on the other side of Gili Air with many species of fish. It was incredible snorkeling several feet below the surface with the fish swimming in all directions around us. 

After snorkeling, we jumped and dove off the roof of the tour boat before stopping in Gili Air for lunch on the beach. It was a great experience and opportunity to meet travelers from around the world. We met some Brits on “holiday” and a group of siblings from Spain, one of which visited us later that winter in NYC. 

Acrylic Kayaking.  Rent an acrylic kayak and paddle around Turtle Point. Pro tip, select the kayak with minimal scratches on the bottom. The more scratches, the less you’ll actually be able to see though it. 

Stand Up Paddle.  Rent a stand up paddle and explore the strait between Gili T and Gili M. The water is usually calm making it easy to balance. This was another fun way to spot sea turtles.

Watch the Sunset.  There are a number of beach clubs, restaurants and hotels with lounges, ocean swings and patios on the west and southwest sides of the island to watch the sunset. 

Get a Bamboo Tattoo.  A bamboo tattoo is simply a hand poked tattoo. There are a number of tattoo studios offering traditional bamboo tattoos across Gili T. We visited NoA The Master of the Bamboo Tattoo. Devin got a geometric elephant tattooed on his inner arm and I got a wave on my ankle. The process was sanitary and clean. We watched the artist clean all of his tools and present us with the an unopened package containing the needles he used for our tattoos. It’s worth it for the authentic experience!

Take a Cooking Class.  One of the best meals we had on Gili T was the one we cooked ourselves at the Sweet & Spicy Gili Cooking School on the beach in front of Egoiste Restaurant. During the 2 hour cooking class we cooked multiple Indonesian staple dishes including:

• Fried tempe and tofu in homemade peanut sauce

• Mie goreng (spicy fried noodles and veggies),

• Pepes ikan (fish cooked in a banana leaf)

• Klepon (green colored rice balls filled with palm sugar)

Food & Drink

In addition to the traditional Indonesian dishes above, here are a couple of “foodie” things to know:

• Look out for street carts selling grilled corn and satay skewers cooked over coconut husks.

• Most restaurants are along the perimeter of the island.

• The East Side has many local style restaurants and bars

• The West Side has many beach club style restaurants and bars

• If you’re visiting just before or during the celebration of Ramadan, there will not be any alcohol sales on the island.

Bukit Peninsula 

The Bukit Peninsula is the southern most point in Bali. It’s known for its swimmable and surfable cliffside beaches, beach clubs and grilled seafood. We stayed here during our last few nights in Bali. 

Getting Around 

Plan for extra time.  The peninsula is very hilly making it difficult to get around. There are only two main roads with smaller roads branching off causing frequent congestion. 

Hire a taxi driver.  Most drivers will offer to exclusively bring you around the peninsula. The advantage to this is that they’ll wait for you after dropping you off, be on call to pick you up and make great recommendations for things to do, sights to see and places to eat. Pro-tip:Download WhatsApp to keep in touch, negotiate pricing and never pay all at once. Daily drivers usually cost $250K Rp ($18 USD)

Rent a Scooter.  Like throughout the rest of Bali, you can get around on a scooter. The only difference in the peninsula is that most places charge a 10-15K Rp parking fee (about $1 USD)

Where to Stay 

We stayed in a jungle tree house at an estate called The Alchemist, a relaxing and adventurous end to our stay in Bali. The property had a restaurant and bakery serving a mix of traditional Balinese and French cuisine which made for delicious breakfasts with tropical fruits, fresh croissants and poached eggs. The back of the property had a stunning lap pool, large stone chess set and a few cottages for other guests and the owners. 

Things to Do 

Have Bali High Tea. Visit the Orchid Tea Lounge late one morning for Bali High Tea. The tea room is a modern greenhouse decorated with hundreds of blooming orchids. The tea service was especially cute with all the cakes and treats either wrapped in or served on banana leafs. 

Eat Jimbaran Seafood.  Jimbaran Beach is home to a finishing village lined with restaurants and sheds grilling all kinds of freshly caught and live seafood. The seafood is cooked over large grills burning coconut husks and fanned by the chefs. The selection is vast and ranges between vendors. We shared a platter of whole crab, prawn, barracuda and oysters plated on a banana leaf. 

The best options are towards the south end. The seafood is cheaper, you can dine directly on the beach and the vibes are much better. We ate here during our last night in Bali, watching the sunset one last time over the Indian Ocean while being serenaded by an international mariachi band that could sing songs in your language based on your nationality. Avoid the higher-end restaurants towards the north, they’re tourist traps.

Padang Padang Beach.  We visited a lot of beaches in Bali but this was one of our favorites! The small beach is nestled in a cove with protection from ocean currents making it easily swimmable. 

It’s accessible via a set of stairs built within the crevice of the cliff above. There is an entrance fee of 10K Rp (less than $1 USD) Watch out for monkeys on steps and near the tree line along the beach. Like in the monkey forest, they’re mischievous and will try to snatch your belongings. 

The beach is great for sunbathing with little shade, though you can rent an umbrella for 100K Rp ($7 USD). There are a number of warungs to grab a meal and vendors selling fresh coconuts to drink out of. Afterwards, they’ll chop them open for you to eat the meat from. 

Nyang Nyang Beach

This remote beach takes a little effort to reach. If you enjoy hiking followed by a reward, this is the perfect spot for you! The beach is divided into 2 sections, the East and West sides. There is also a nearby paragliding camp offering flights from above the beaches. 

East Side. The sandy beach and shallow waters are perfect for swimming and lounging in. There are also a couple of warungs selling beverages, snacks and offering a shaded retreat from the sun. The most notable sight on the beach is the graffitied remains of a washed up shipwreck. The beach is accessible via a lush cliffside trail behind the Villa Plenilunino. There are a number of warungs along the trail to stop for a meal and drink. Once you reach the bottom, you’ll have to pass through a grassy field with a heard of grazing cows before reaching the beach. It’s best to avoid getting close to or startling them. 

West Side.  This beach is perfect if you want total seclusion. There are no warungs, so bring your own food and water. The sandy shoreline transitions to bedrock at the water. This combined with the waves and currents make it dangerous for swimming. Though the seclusion and sound of crashing waves makes this beach feel like your own personal desert island. The beach is accessible via a steep gravel roadway just beyond the parking lot adjacent to Nyang Nyang Warung. 

Before You Go.  Plan the section you want to visit. Both sides are separated by a 500ft stretch of jagged rocks covered in large crabs beneath an unstable the cliff. It’s dangerous and near impossible to cross. You do not want to get stuck here when the high tide comes in. Bring a bag to collect plastic. Due to the beach’s southern most point, the ocean currents often litter the shoreline in plastic waste.

Nyang Nyang Paragliding.  The southern winds hitting Nyang Nyang’s cliff make it an ideal spot for paragliding. We took a 20 minute tandem flight that soared several hundred feet above the coast. If the conditions are right, the pilot will perform some aerobatics such as spiraling and spinning the parachute. The cost is 900K Rp ($63.50) including go-pro photos and videos. Be ready to go as soon as you arrive. It was a little terrifying but within minutes, we were strapped in and lifted into the air. Opposite of this, you may have to wait if the winds are too weak. 

Location Specifics

Currency & Pricing  

• You can easily be a millionaire in Bali. 1,000,000 Rp converts to about $71 USD.

• Money is qualified in the thousands. Many restaurants and businesses will drop the extra zeros on menus and price tags. For instance something costing 56,000 Rp may be listed as 56.

• Carry a lot of smaller bills (5K, 10k and 20K) with you for donations and small fees.

• Tipping is usually included in the bill under service. Anything extra is not expected.

• Many beach clubs have entrance fees to reserve a table which is given back as a credit for food and drinks.

• When exchanging cash or cards, use both hands out of respect.

Safety & Awareness 

• Bali is generally a safe place to travel too.

• The biggest dangers in Bali are traffic and natural disasters.

• You need to be alert and careful if driving a scooter or crossing a road.

• Bali is a volcanic island and prone to earthquakes. The safest thing to do if one happens is to move to an open area. If you’re in a building, move to the center of a street. If you’re hiking or under palm trees, move to a clearing to avoid falling rocks and coconuts. Always cover your head.

• After an earthquake, it’s best to leave the beaches and stay alert for tsunami warnings.

• Move to higher ground if a tsunami warning is issued. Most areas have coastal evacuation routes.

• Be aware of currents and waves while in the water. Most beaches will post warnings.

Language & Phrases  

• Bahasa Indonesian is the official language in Bali however many people know English.

• People will often introduce themselves and bow their head when meeting you. You should reciprocate the response and gesture.

• Common greetings we heard, especially from strangers or passersby are:

  • Hi. Where are you going?

  • Hi. Where are you from?

  • These greetings are often said to start conversation.

• Common phrases:

  • Sukseme = Thank You

  • Sama Sama = You’re Welcome

  • Selamat Pagi = Good Morning

  • Selamat Siang = Good Afternoon

  • Selamat Sore = Good Evening

LGBTQ+ Safety

Bali and The Gilis are very LGBTQ+ friendly compared to the rest of Indonesia where being gay is punishable under the nation’s strict laws. Though it’s best to be cautious you likely will not run into any trouble, especially in the more westernized neighborhoods such as Canggu or Seminyak. The latter is home to pockets of LGBTQ+ nightlife and businesses. 

For Next Time…

Like we said earlier on, there are near endless things to do and see in Bali. This guide should attest to that ;) Bali is definitely one of those destinations that you’ll want to return too! When we do, these are a number of the things we’re planing to seek out.

Nusa Islands 

• Full day tour visiting Manta Bay to snorkel and swim with the Manta Rays.

• Hiked to Kelingking Beach on Nusa Penida. The beach is famous for its T-rex shaped peninsula and beach during low tide.

• Cliff Diving on Nusa Ceningan and Nusa Lembongan

West Bali 

• Roadtrip- Drive west and explore the coastal and jungle towns

• West Bali Park - A largely untouched wildlife refuge and jungle.

The Gilis 

• Spent more time exploring Gili Air and Gili Meno

• Taken a 3 day scuba certification class at one of the diving schools then explored the further out reefs

Bukit Peninsula 

• Explored more cliffside beaches: Suluban, Balangan and Green Bowl.

• Visited Uluwatu Temple, one of Bali’s most sacred. Perched on the island’s southern most cliff, It’s believed the Hindu gods, Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva become here.

Ubud, Bali

Ubud

Ubud is the heart of Bali. It’s a place for all kinds adventurous activities and cultural experiences. The area is defined by its lush jungle landscape, expansive rice terraces and Hindu temples. We spent several days here and could have easily spent weeks exploring and discovering places to visit and see. 

Eco Tourism

People in Ubud are physically and spiritually connected to nature. They care for their environment, eat, build and farm sustainably. This couldn’t have been any truer than at the eco-community where we stayed, New Earth Haven. Our accommodation was an eco-dome made from bamboo, canvas and thatched palm leaves. The dome was surrounded by rice fields and elevated from the ground. Separately, it had an outdoor shower and compositing toilet. 

During our stay, we would often wake up to the farmers harvesting rice and herding baby ducks through the harvested plots resulting in natural fertilization. Across the rice fields was Akasha Restaurant. A larger open air bamboo framed restaurant focused on sustainability, vegan cuisine and hosting nightly events and festivals. We enjoyed most of our early morning and late night meals here. 

From eco-domes to tree houses or hostels and villas in the rice patties, there are plenty of unique and sustainable places to stay in Ubud. 

Getting Around: 

Many accommodations in Ubud will help arrange transportation for you, especially to and from other areas of the island. Ubud and the surrounding area is vast and hilly making scooters and taxis the easiest way to get around. We often took Bluebird Taxi, known for its metered service, flat fees and street-side taxi stands. 

Things to Do:

Sacred Monkey Forest: 

The forest is covered in massive trees with dangling aerial roots, multiple ancient temples and acts as a sanctuary for hundreds of monkeys. The monkeys are everywhere, climbing in the trees, running across pathways, sitting on benches and making the temples their home. They are playful, mischievous and protective. If you’re not paying attention, one may try and take your phone, bag or hat. We saw this happen! You can truly get an up-close experience with them. 

Tegalalang Rice Terraces 

The lush, expansive hillside rice terraces were one of our favorite sights to explore in Ubud. We got here at 7am, hours before they filled up with larger numbers of tourists. We stayed until the early afternoon weaving through the vertical expanses and hiking to the furthest corners. At the entrance, there is a hillside village with restaurants, warungs, cafes and hostels overlooking the terraces. Throughout them are zip-lines, jungle swings and farmers stationed at various points who will ask for a small donation to help support their livelihood and maintain the walkways. Its best to donate 5K Rp each time (less than 50 cents).

Sunrise Hike to Mt. Batur 

Mt. Batur is Bali’s second highest peak and still an active volcano. One of the most adventurous things you can do on the island is hike to its summit and watch the sunrise. Wake up just after midnight and drive to the basecamp of Mt. Batur at Toya Bungkah. There will be hundreds of guides available for hire. Guides generally cost around 500K - 700K Rp for two people ($35-$50 USD)

From the summit, you can see the entire island of Bali and the nearby island of Lombok. There will also be vendors selling hot chocolate, coffee, water and various snacks. As Mt. Batur is still an active volcano, guides will often bring eggs to hard boil in the steam vents. Try one if you can, there’s something special about food cooked by a volcano! 

What to Prepare:

• Wear good shoes for traction. The pathways are covered in loose stones gravel.

• Wear layers. It is colder the higher you hike in elevation but easy to overheat.

• Bring a flashlight to see, though this isn’t always needed after your eyes adjust to the darkness (plus you can see the stars)

• Bring water, you will get dehydrated as you climb.

Claiming some bragging rights, we were the first visitors to reach the volcano’s summit that morning. A first for our guide, Cynthia, even after years of near daily treks up Mt. Batur. 

Mason Adventures Elephant Park 

We came here to meet, feed and bathe an elephant! After entering the park, you can buy small baskets of produce for 50K Rp ($3.50 USD) to feed the elephants. It’s the cutest feeling as the use their trunks to take the food from your hands! After feeding, we met Risky, the elephant we scrubbed and bathed from trunk to tail. By the end of the experience, we felt like we had made a new friend but also needed a shower ourselves.

Many other visitors came to ride an elephant, something we didn’t ethically agree with and would discourage others from doing. Otherwise, the elephants seemed to be treated humanely, well fed and given space to roam.

Elephants are highly intelligent, creative and social animals. They can even use their trunks to paint. The park has a museum with elephant paintings on display and available for purchase. Needless to say, we now have a painting made by an adolescent elephant named Jegeg hanging in our bedroom. 

Campuhan Ridge Walk

The walk is an easy, scenic and lush 2km pathway on top of the Campuhan Ridge. To avoid the sun, we walked the path about two hours before sunset ending during golden hour. Enter on the north side, where there are a number of businesses selling fruit, water, Bintangs and massages. End on the south side at the breathtaking ancient Pura Gunung Lebah temple. From there you can walk down Jl Raya Ubud to the city center for dinner. 

Tirta Empul - Water Temple 

A 15th century temple known for its fountains and baths fed by a natural spring. It has a special importance to the Balinese for its purifying and healing waters. The best way to properly use them is to pay a temple guide for a handmade offering and ask them to explain the ritual process and meaning behind it. It’s well worth the experience to step out of your comfort zone, experience and reflect on whatever you’re thankful for. 

We visited Bali during the dry season. Coincidentally, while visiting the water temple, a storm rolled in and lasted for the rest of the afternoon. It was the only time it rained during our two week trip. 

What to Bring:

• A Sarong. Like with many temples across Bali, you need a sarong to cover up with before entering. They’re available to rent at Tirta Empul if you don’t have one.

• A towel. To dry off with after cleansing in the waters

• A lock. To secure your belongings in the lockers.

Satria Coffee Plantation

Famous for Luwak Coffee. If you’re unfamiliar, the coffee beans go through quite the process before becoming coffee. The fruits containing the beans are eaten by civets, a nocturnal cat-like mammal. The civets then digest fruit and poop out the beans. The beans are collected and roasted in small batches before being ground and turned into coffee. It’s an unappealing process but does result in a rich, mellow and flavorful brew worth trying at least once. 

Museums 

There are a number of museums showcasing Balinese art, artifacts, carvings and architecture throughout Ubud. The museums themselves are as much about the grounds and their temples as they are the artwork and artifacts within. 

The three most important ones are: 

• Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA)

• Museum Puri Lukisan

• Neka Art Museum

We visited ARMA during the mid afternoon and were surprised to find the museum mostly to ourselves. We spent a few hours touring the galleries, walking through the grounds and talking with a few artists currently carving sculptures and painting in the gardens. 

Places to Eat & Drink

In Ubud, we learned that it’s customary to remove your shoes before entering most restaurants and business. You’ll often be cued by a row of shoes outside the business before entering. If you’re unsure, do it anyway. Other than Akasha Restaurant nearby our eco-dome and a few street meals, here are a few places we came to eat and drink:

Mudra

A really cute cafe nearby the Monkey Forest offering the most stunning Bali bowls on the island.

Hujan Locale

Slightly higher-end contemporary Indonesian cuisine with colorful and flavorful dishes as well as artisan cocktails. We shared a few appetizers end enjoyed the prawn and crispy whole fish as mains. 

Jungle Fish 

The best way to describe this place is a beach club in the middle of the jungle. The restaurant has an infinity pool overlooking the lush rainforest and multiple levels. The pool bar offers a selection of small plates and 2 for 1 drinks. We sampled every cocktail on the menu falling in love one wrapped in banana leafs. 

Location Specifics

Currency & Pricing  

• You can easily be a millionaire in Bali. 1,000,000 Rp converts to about $71 USD.

• Money is qualified in the thousands. Many restaurants and businesses will drop the extra zeros on menus and price tags. For instance something costing 56,000 Rp may be listed as 56.

• Carry a lot of smaller bills (5K, 10k and 20K) with you for donations and small fees.

• Tipping is usually included in the bill under service. Anything extra is not expected.

• When exchanging cash or cards, use both hands out of respect.

Safety & Awareness 

• Bali is generally a safe place to travel too.

• The biggest dangers in Bali are traffic and natural disasters.

• You need to be alert and careful if driving a scooter or crossing a road.

• Bali is a volcanic island and prone to earthquakes. The safest thing to do if one happens is to move to an open area. If you’re in a building, move to the center of a street. If you’re hiking or under palm trees, move to a clearing to avoid falling rocks and coconuts. Always cover your head.

Language & Phrases  

• Bahasa Indonesian is the official language in Bali however many people know English.

• People will often introduce themselves and bow their head when meeting you. You should reciprocate the response and gesture.

• Common phrases:

  • Sukseme = Thank You

  • Sama Sama = You’re Welcome

  • Selamat Pagi = Good Morning

  • Selamat Siang = Good Afternoon

  • Selamat Sore = Good Evening

For Next Time…

Ubud was one of our favorite places in Bali, so much so we dedicated a full guide to it! Though we spent nearly a week here, there is still so much more left to experience. Here are a few of the things we plan to do when we return. Read our Coastal Bali Guide for more things to do and see around the island!

• Pura Ulun Danu Bratan. Canoe between the floating water temples on Lake Bratan

• Pura Taman Saraswati. A palace water temple surrounded by a large lily ponds where the traditional Balinese Legong dance is performed.

• Goa Gajah. A 9th century cave temple with extensive carvings. You enter through the mouth of a demon.

• Chase Waterfalls. The two main ones in Ubud are Tegenungan & Tibumana Waterfalls.

• Canopying. The Tree Top Adventure Park offers courses canopying and zip lining through the tropical jungle.