Krabi, Thailand
Krabi, Thailand
Krabi is a tropical paradise where adventure and relaxation merge. Between the white sand beaches and verdant palm groves are stunning natural nights. Mountainous trails lead through the jungle to panoramic viewpoints, natural hot springs, blue lagoons and dark caves. The sounds of singing birds and humming cicadas echo across the rainforest. Kayakers paddle by as long tail boats speed across the sea past towering islands and sheer cliffs. Street vendors sell fresh fruits, tropical cocktails and Thai cuisine. The evenings glow with the warmth of the sunset nightly fire dance performances. We spent a week here in the town of Ao Nang with day trips to Railay Beach and several natural sights.
Ao Nang
An Nang is a lively beach town in Krabi near many of the peninsula’s best beaches and natural sights. The town’s waterfront boulevard and palm lined streets are home to restaurants, bars, boutique hotels, beachwear shops, spas, daily night markets, tattoo studios, smoke shops and Muay Thai gyms.
Things to Do
Relax at Ao Nang Beach. A shallow golden sand beach with a palm lined promenade at the center of Ao Nang. It’s a hub for leisurely and relaxing activities like sunbathing, getting a massage, reading books under the shade, sipping on cocktails and watching the sunset. The water swimmable and warm with vendors offering kayak and stand up paddle rentals. Long boat taxis and tour operators leave from here to reach nearby beaches and nature reserves across the peninsula. The north side of the beach is the most commercial while the south side has several small resorts and higher end restaurants.
Hike The Monkey Trail. A precarious wooden stepped trail leading through the jungleous hillside between Ao Nang and Pai Plong Beaches. Monkeys are known to lurk along the trail, grabbing people’s water bottles, food, phones and loose belongings. We saw several of them near at the Ao Nang side of the trail but avoided any close encounters.
Relax at Pai Plong Beach. A public beach at the one end of the Monkey Trail. The beach is maintained by a resort that offers day passes to non guests with access to lounges, pools, kayaks, restaurants and bars. The beach itself is free to use.
Ride in a Long Tail Boat. Thailand’s iconic long tail boats are the best way to DIY an island hopping experience and get between the beaches of Krabi and the islands in the Andaman Sea. In Ao Nang, the boats depart from Ao Nang Longtail Boat Service Club at Ao Nang Beach and the Nopparat Thara Pier. Tickets can be purchased from adjacent ticket offices starting at 100 Bhat one way, cash only. Public signs regulate rates and hours of operation. Long tail boats are painted wooden boats with a long pole and propeller extending from their engine. The design allows the boats to navigate in shallow waters without damaging coral reefs.
Eat at the Ao Nang Night Market. A sprawling night market with hundreds of food stalls and vendors selling Thai cuisine including noodles and rice dishes, spring rolls, curries, fresh seafood, mango sticky rice and rolled ice cream. A large dining area and beer garden is centered on a stage with live singers and nightly performers. It’s a very popular place to try the local cuisine and should be a stop at least one night while in Krabi.
Order To Go Cocktails. Several walk up bars along the beachfront boulevard offer an expansive list of to go cocktails. They’re more affordable than most happy hours, usually costing 100 Bhat per drink. We ordered tropical drinks like planters punch, mai tais, zombies and rum punch while relaxing on the beach.
Watch the Fire Dancers. Groups of talented fire dancers put on nightly performances along Ao Nang Beach. We caught one performance on Saturday night at 9pm near the Lan Le Restaurant. The group of dancers spun flaming pinwheels, ropes and cubes, “breathed” fire and scattered glowing embers as they danced beneath. The shows are free but tipping is encouraged at the end.
Dine at The Last Fisherman. A beachfront restaurant at Ao Nang Beach serving Thai food and international cuisine. Dining tables are arranged across the sandy patio under the shade of beach trees with hanging basket lanterns. We came here for lunch, enjoying fish burgers while overlooking the sea and sheer rock cliffs of the nearby mountain.
Railay Beach
Railay Beach is a peninsula famed for its world renowned beaches, breathtaking natural sights and outdoor activities. Karst mountains with climbable rock cliffs, steep hiking trails and cavernous caves provide daring and adventurous opportunities to explore. Tropical forest, coconut groves and coastal mangroves bathe the peninsula in a sea of green. Picturesque white sand beaches with turquoise hued waters are perfect for sunbathing, swimming, snorkeling and kayaking. The peninsula itself is semi-secluded, only reachable by boat from neighboring beaches. At its center is a sleepy and tranquil town with a youthful vibe. It contrasts the club and party scene found elsewhere in southern Thailand.
Railay Beach West. A crescent shaped white sand beach flanked by towering limestone mountains. Beachfront restaurants, boutique hotels and bars line its shore. Swimmers and kayakers enjoy the beach’s calm turquoise waters. Colorful long boats ferry passengers in and out of the peninsula from here.
Railay Beach East. A shoreline and cove on the eastern side of the peninsula near many of the area’s hotels. Guests often arrive and depart from here by boat. Tractors pull wagons of people and their luggage between the boats and shore. Though scenic and beautiful, there are much better beaches to swim and relax at.
Visit Bobo Plaza. A sand covered pedestrian street connecting Railay Beach West and East. It’s lined with hostels, thai food restaurants, climbing outfitters, massage spas, tattoo studios and smoke shops. It’s a hub for activity but still feels hidden and under developed.
Enter Diamond Cave. A cave named after its glittering rock formations hidden within the karst mountain. A boardwalk leads into the cave through a tall and narrow slit. Once inside, amber colored crystals and stones shimmer in the light. Towering walls and chambers are draped in layers of stalactites and ribbon-like rocks.
Walk The Stalactite Trail. A trail leading from Railay Beach East to Pra Nang Beach. It winds beneath a cliff with dangling stalactites and small caves.
Hike to The Railay East Viewpoint & Lagoon. Midway along the Stalactite Trail is a steep rocky hill covered in tree roots and ropes. The rope guided route leads up the hill to a fork in trail. Left leads to the viewpoint overlooking Railay Beach East. Right leads to the hidden lagoon.
Railay East Viewpoint. Once navigating the steep rope guided trail, hiking to the viewpoint is fairly easy. The small lookout boasts picturesque views of the peninsula’s lush karst mountains, dense coconut groves, the tan sand beach below and turquoise bay dotted with long tail boats.
Hidden Lagoon. A difficult and rigorous trail leads down a series of cascading cliffs to reach the lagoon. It involves a heavy amount of free climbing along steep rocky cliffs with ropes guiding the way for support. The lagoon is surrounded by vertical cliffs covered in foliage. The water rises and falls with the tide. We visited at midday when the lagoon in direct sun but shallow and muddy.
Pro Tips. Go slow, be conscious of your footing and know your limitations. Wear sturdy closed toe shoes. Shake mud off your shoes before climbing back up the trial to avoid slipping. Wear insect repellant to minimize mosquito bites.
Relax & Adventure at Phra Nang Beach. A gorgeous tan sand beach with aquamarine waters and adventurous activities. The beach is the perfect spot for soaking up the sun, relaxing under shaded trees, swimming in the calm waters, kayaking around offshore islands, exploring caves and learning to climb. It quickly became our favorite beach in southern Thailand!
Phra Nang Kayak Rentals. Single and double kayaks are available for rent at Pra Nang Beach for 300 Bhat per hour. We padded around the bay, rocky islands and to Railay Beach West in under an hour.
The Grotto. An elevated restaurant built along the base of a cliff and a small cave at Phra Nang Beach. It has a romantic and truly unique atmosphere.
Princess Cave. A cave at Phra Nang Beach with a Hindu altar dedicated to fertility. Hundreds of colorful and wooden phallic statuettes are piled together and placed erect in the cave.
The Bat Cave & Railay Beach West Viewpoint. A vast cave with dark chambers and natural windows looking out towards the sea and Railay Beach West. The cave is reachable via a trail from the far end of Phra Nang Beach. Once inside, unmarked routes continue deeper into the karst mountainside. We followed footsteps, bamboo ladders and a breeze into pitch black chambers, exploring their offshoots and sculptural rock formations. Daylight crept through a point in the distance, opening up to stunning viewpoint overlooking Railay Beach West. Exploring the cave is very DIY and most people don’t enter further than the mouth. They’re sorely missing out.
Pro Tip. Wear sturdy shoes for hiking and bring a flash light to see in darkness.
Brunch at D’Oasis Cafe. A cafe at Railay Beach East specializing in fresh fruit smoothies and bowls. We ordered a mango smoothie and an açaí bowl while overlooking the beach.
Happy Hour at Hawkeye Thai. A tropical styled beach front restaurant and bar at Railay Beach East. We stopped in for happy hour piña coladas while waiting for our long tail boat back to Ao Nang.
Krabi’s Natural Sights
Dragon’s Crest Nature Trail. A lengthy nature trail leading through dense jungle to a mountaintop summit with views of Krabi. The shaded trail is nearly 4km one way with occasional lookouts over the valleys, mountains and Andaman Sea. Near the summit, a clearing called the “stone courtyard” offers sweeping views of the peninsula. From the summit, the landscape comes into full view. Towering rock mountains abruptly rise from the land and sea as farmland and palm groves cover the valleys. Along the trail, we spotted black and blue winged butterflies, monitor lizards and monkeys. The beautiful song of birds contrasts the eerie hum of cicadas, resembling the sound of violins in a horror film.
Good to Know. Arrive before last entry at 2pm. Bring plenty of water for the 8km round trip hike. There’s a ranger station to stock up on more water and snacks before or after the hike. Use the free hiking sticks by the trial head or for rent one at the ranger station.
Getting Here. We took a Grab from Ao Nang to the park entrance and back. It took about 30 minutes before being paired with a return driver.
Khao Phra Bang Khram National Park. A protected rainforest with a natural spring and three vibrantly hued pools fed by its flowing waters. A boardwalk leads 1km through the rainforest to reach the series of pools. Water floods across the forest floor creating layers of mineral sediment.
Blue Pool. The small natural spring and source of water for the river and pools. It’s surrounded by dense tropical forest and ferns. From the boardwalk, bubbles are visible in the center of the spring. Under direct sunlight, the crystal clear water glows iridescent blue
Emerald Pool. A fresh water pool fed by the natural spring with an aquamarine hue. It’s the only pool that can be swam in. The cool and mineral rich water feeling refreshing under the hot sun.
Crystal Pool. A vibrant green pool fed by the natural hot spring. It’s home to blooms of algae, small fish and decaying trees.
Hot Stream Waterfall. A natural hot spring with mineral rich water that flows over a small terraced waterfall with shallow pools. The pools act as hot tubs as water rushes from one to the next. The water is about 40C (104F). Even on a hot day, sitting in the water feels enjoyable. Time is limited to 20 minutes in the pools.
Pro Tip. Enter the pools barefoot. The rocks offer some traction however patches with algae are extremely slippery when wearing shoes or sandals.
Tiger Cave Temple Mountain. A mountain top Buddhist temple reachable after a series of 1,260 steep steps rising 309 meters vertically. The summit of the mountain has a golden statue of the Buddha, stupa and small shrine. The view from the summit overlooks fields of palm trees, a vast mountain ridge and the distant Andaman Sea.
Getting Here. We visited the pools, hot stream waterfall and tiger cave mountain via a shared transfer with Trip Guru. They provided transportation and free time to explore all of the sights along the full day itinerary.
Where to Stay
Mr Long Hostel & Restaurant. An inexpensive hostel and campground located in Ao Nang. It’s very much “in the nature” as advertised with rustic cabins and tents occupying the grounds. It gives off hippie and stoner vibes with many long term bohemian guests. The restaurant offers homestyle Thai dishes including a complementary breakfast comprised of sticky rice wrapped in banana leaves, Thai fried donuts with sweetened condensed milk and fresh fruit harvested on the property. Book on Airbnb.
Getting Around
Phuket Ferry. A ferry company that aggregates boat operators across Phuket, Krabi and the surrounding islands in the Andaman Sea. It’s a beautiful and affordable way to sightsee while getting around. We booked one way tickets from Phuket to Ao Nang in Krabi with Ao Nang Travel and Tour Co. The trip took under 2 hours including a transfer from the pier to our accommodation.
Tuk Tuks. Thailand’s three wheeled carts are available around Krabi’s towns. They’re great for traveling short distances, often costing 50-100 Bhat per person.
Grab. Southeast Asia’s popular taxi app is available in Krabi. It’s useful for traveling longer distances to natural sights and the airport. Wait times can be long and prices are more expensive than tuk tuks.
On Foot. Ao Nang is easily walkable, especially along the waterfront boulevard.
Krabi vs Phuket
We spent about a week in each Krabi and Phuket. We enjoyed our time in both destinations but can say without hesitation that we love Krabi more!
Krabi, though still touristy, feels significantly more local than Phuket. It’s lesser developed in parts, has a more authentic atmosphere and slower pace. It’s close to untouched natural wonders including islands dotting the Andaman Sea.
Phuket has several developed beach towns but lacks local culture due to the vast number of expats and its clubby environment. There is less access to nearby nature however many tours to islands in the Andaman Sea frequently leave from here.
Elsewhere in Thailand
We spent over a month in Thailand, experiencing Thai culture, cuisine and nature on our travels between cities, beach and countryside. Explore our other travel guides on this beautiful country. Eat your way through the street food capital of the world, Bangkok. See the Buddhist wats and elephant sanctuaries of Chiang Mai. Experience the party scene and beaches of Phuket.
For Next Time…
We absolutely loved our time in Krabi and hope this sliver of paradise never changes. When we return, we plan to Stay in Railay Beach instead of taking day trips from Ao Nang. Some sights and activities we’re keeping top
Rock Climbing at Phra Nang Beach. We missed our opportunity to rock climb and repel in Railay Beach. Several outfitters offered beginner courses on some of the peninsula’s sheer cliffs, specifically at Phra Nang Beach.
Island Tours. Longboats from the piers and beaches offer day trips to several islands in the Andaman Sea.
4 Islands Boat Day Trip: A long boat tour to the islands of Poda, Tup, Chicken & West Railay.
3 Islands Snorkeling Day Trip: A long boat tour to the islands and reefs of Mae Urai, Yawabon & Yawasam
