Day of the Dead in Mexico City

Dia de los Muertos

Dia de los Muertos is one of Mexican culture’s most important holidays and traditions. It is a day to remember those that have died and to celebrate life. The holiday is officially celebrated on November 1st with a week of festivities leading up to it including parades, ofrendas, markets, food and decorations. 

Elements of Dia de los Muertos 

Multitudes of symbols and decoration make up many elements of Dia de los Muertos. Many of which are symbolic of the joy of life, life after death and honoring the deceased. 

Alebrijes.  Ornately designed and colorfully painted representations of animals and mythical creatures that act as spirit guides to the dead. They’re seen all across Mexico, especially around Day of the Dead. 

Papel Picado.  Stings of colorful paper flags with beautiful and lively images of skulls, skeletons, marigolds cut out of them. They’re a common sight, often displayed in restaurants and above ofrendas. 

Calaveras.  Colorfully painted smiling skulls intended to laugh at death. People’s faces are commonly painted as Calaveras during the Dia de los Muertos festivals and parades. 

Cempasuchil.  The Aztec word for merigold. These orange flowers and their petals decorate ofrendas, homes and public spaces during Day of the Dead.

Ofrendas.  Alters to honor the dead decorated with a photo of the dead surrounded by Cempasuchil, candles, paper marché skeletons, painted sugar skulls, pan de muerto, wax models of food a bottled drink. Some ofrendas even go as far as to honor their lost pets. Ofrendas range in size from small ones at people’s homes to large ones in public squares. The most notable of which is the Mega Ofrenda, Mexico City’s largest ofrenda located in Zocalo Square. It consists of 32 ofrendas, one for each state in Mexico, flanked by a Catrina dressed in the traditional clothes and colors of the state it represents. 

La Catrina.  The classic and elegantly styled skeleton costume typically featuring a dress and large sombrero. Catrinas are common costumes worn by people during the Dia de los Muertos festivals and parades.

Calacas.  Skeletal figures commonly seen during Day of the Dead. They’re a common costume by many, including us, to celebrate the parade day festivities. 

Pan de Muerto.  The sugar dusted dome of bread with two pieces of dough made to look like crossed bones. They’re made specifically by bakeries during Day of the Dead. 

Paseo de la Reforma 

Paseo de la Reforma, a long diagonal avenue that stretches across Mexico City. It is a hub for many of activities during Dia de los Muertos, most notably being the Parade. The median is planted with marigolds while the avenue is lined spectators, makeup artists painting faces, vendors selling street food, decorations, souvenirs, ofrendas and exhibits including: 

• Marigold Festival.  A tented section of the avenue With sculptures and structures decorated in different colored marigolds and vendors selling potted marigolds. 

• Mexicaneos Exhibition.  An exhibit of 50 large Calaveras displayed along the avenue.

• Alebrijes Exhibition.  An exhibit with hundreds of large and intricately designed Alebrijes displayed along the Paseo de la Reforma.

• Face Painting.  On the parade day, there are makeup artists  set up along the parade route painting faces. You can choose from a book of designs or show the artist a design. Face painting typically costs $100 Pesos ($5) and takes 10-15min.

Zocalo Square

A massive public square in the Centro Historico and hub for Mexico City’s Day of the Dead festivities. The square is decorated in towering catrinas and ofrendas each representing  a different state of Mexico. It’s the sight of many street food vendors and performances including the parade day’s “Grand Closing Ceremony.” 

The Parade

The parade is one of the largest public festivities in Mexico City leading up to Dia de los Muertos. It travels across the city ending with a grand closing ceremony in the historic center. Over a million spectators from all over Mexico and the world line the streets to celebrate. Many people arrive in costume while others get their faces painted by artists set up along the route.

The parade includes floats with giant skeletons, others dedicated to Frida Kahlo and alebrijes. There were marching bands dressed in the colors of the Mexican flag, dancers dressed as Catrinas, monarch butterflies and La Llorona as well as performers in Aztec ceremonial outfits. 

The Parade Route 

The parade traveled down Paseo de La Reforma starting from the Estela de Luz at the corner of Bosque de Chapultepec to Avenida Hildago passing Alameda Central and onto Avenida Cinco de Mayo before ending in Zócalo Square. 

The parade is a relatively new addition to the Dia de los Muertos celebrations. The official route, date and time were only announced two weeks before the celebrations took place. We had to monitor Mexico City’s government website to stay up-to-date with the Official Announcements. 

Where to Watch the Parade 

From the Street.  Arrive a couple of hours early and claim a spot along the metal barricades lining the parade route for the best view. It gets very busy and difficult to see if you’re further into the crowd. 

From a Restaurant or Bar.  We watched the parade in Centró Historico at a bar called Pata Negra. Though we didn’t have a front row view, we were elevated above the crowds, had a seat to sit on, restroom to use and bar to order cocktails from. 

The Grand Closing Ceremony 

The grand closing ceremony ended in Zócalo Square with a concert featuring Ángela Aguilar where she performed La Llorona and two other songs as choreographed fireworks lit up the sky in front of the grand cathedral.

Festival de Coyocan 

One of the largest festivals held during two weeks leading up to Dia de los Muertos with celebrations and ofrendas. The streets surrounding the Centró de Coyoacan are lined with food vendors, mobile panaderias, handicraft booths, makeup artists, fair games and carnival rides. People from all over the neighborhood and city come here to celebrate.

Mercado Artisanal.  A two level market with stalls of vendors and artists selling alebrijes and calaveras as well as the Mexican handicrafts like textiles, books, leather goods and home decor.

Restaurants in Coyocan

Restaurant Ave Maria.  A higher end restaurant serving classic Mexican meals like enchiladas in mole, chile relleno with queso and tres leches served on traditional clay dishes 

Los Danzantes.  Oxacan style and traditional Mexican dishes, located in Coyoacán. 

Cabo Coyote.  A restaurant and bar in Centró Coyoacan. We came here for pre-dinner cocktails. 

Boicot Café Coyoacán.  A multilevel coffee shop in Coyoacan. We came here for an afternoon caffeine fix. 

Lecaroz.  A bakery specializing in Mexican pastry and breads. Visiting during Dia de los Muertos, they had an endless supply of Pan de Muerto in multiple sizes.

Mexican Street Food

Street food is popular all across Mexico City, especially around Day of the Dead. Look out for vendors selling gorditias, tlayudas, elotes, chapulines and churros. 

• Gordita.  Thick corn masa tortillas cooked until puffy, cut open and stuffed with filling. We ordered them from a street vendor on Paseo de la Reforma who stuffed them with beans, cheese and salsa. 

• Tlayuda.  A cracker thin tortilla topped with various garnishes. Our favorite was from a street vendor in Zocaló Square. It was spread with refried beans and topped with nopales, Oaxacan cheese and hot sauce. 

• Elote.  A grilled ear of sweet corn served on a stick. It’s covered in Mexican creama and garnished with cotija cheese, chili powder, and lime juice.  

• Chapulines.  Crispy fried grasshoppers. We had them on tacos, as a garnish to dishes, in bars mixed with peanuts and saw them sold in barrels as snacks with a squeeze of lime.

• Churros.  Fried sticks of ridged dough covered in cinnamon sugar and served with dulce de leche, chocolate sauce or sweeten condensed milk.

For Next Time…

Having visited Mexico City for Dia de los Muertos, we would love to return one day to celebrate the festivities in Oaxaca or some of the smaller pueblos around the country.

Mexico City, Mexico

A Mexican Metropolis

Mexico City is a sprawling metropolis where old meets new. It’s a vibrant cultural hub shaped by both contemporary Mexican influences and Mesoamerican heritage. Trendy barrios and historic centers are home to celebrated landmarks and world class museums. The city is a paradise for cuisine from street food vendors, bustling local markets and restaurants that celebrate Mexico’s rich culinary traditions.

La Roma 

La Roma was our home both times we visited in Mexico City. The neighborhood is lush with tree lined streets, tropical plants and blossoming flowers. Architecturally, it shares a mix of styles including Art Deco, Spanish Colonial and Contemporary. It’s a trendy area with boutique hotels, cute shops, cafes selling pan de dulce, mezcalerias and wide a range of restaurants. It’s home to millennials, American expats and dog owners. 

Parque Mexico.  An ovular shaped park in the heart of La Roma. Between the tall trees and Art Deco fountains, couples can be spotted romantically kissing on park benches, pet owners letting their well behaved dogs play freely and families enjoying long afternoons together. 

Avenida Amsterdam.  An ovular avenue offset from Parque Mexico. We spent our mornings walking along the central boulevard admiring the nature, architecture and dogs while window shopping and looking for cafes and restaurants to eat at. 

Mercado Medellin.  A traditional Mexican market in Roma with restaurants and aisles of vendors selling produce, seafood, meats, flowers, mole and more. We visited in the morning for breakfast and to shop for groceries. In the produce section, we bought nopales, squash flowers, poblanos, tomatillos, plantains, papaya and mangos. We walked through the seafood section admiring the fresh and exotic catches like red snapper, parrot fish and whole shark sitting on beds of ice. Further in, we watched butchers slice and tenderize hunks of beef as whole chickens laid along the counters and large pork rinds hung from racks. The edge of the market is a fragrant section with vibrant floral displays, colorful arrangements and potted succulents. 

La Abuelita.  A restaurant in Mercado Medellin with traditional Mexican breakfast dishes. We’ve come here twice on separate trips to Mexico City and tried their hurraches, huevos rancheros, chilaquiles and cafe de olla.

Centro Historico 

Centro Historico is the oldest neighborhood in Mexico City. We came here to sightsee along the narrow roads, visit landmarks and immerse ourselves in Mexican culture. 

Zocalo Square.  A massive public square in the Centro Historico and common place for cultural events, performances and street vendors. It’s flanked by the Catedral Metropolitana, Palacio Nacional and Grand Hotel. At its center is a large flag pole supporting the Mexican flag.

Catedral Metropolitana.  A historic cathedral at one end of the Zocalo Square built on top of and from the stones of Aztec temples and pyramids. Its facade has a symmetrical design with two grand bell towers, religious motifs and ornate patterns carved into the stone. An elaborately designed church with a terracotta tiled dome is attached to one side. Its interior is adorned with golden altars and sacristies, catholic statues, a massive organ system and sections with wooden pews. 

Palacio de Bellas Artes.  An art museum with an ornate stone exterior and gilded with a golden domed roof. Its interior is an Art Deco masterpiece with Aztec inspired ornaments, marble clad surfaces, geometric & organic elements. The museum features a multilevel atrium with frescos and murals, painted by Mexican artists. The most famous is El Hombre Controlador Del Universo, painted by Diego Rivera. A large fresco depicting the opposition of Capitalist and Socialist societies and the exploration of the planet. It was originally commissioned to grace the walls of Rockefeller Center in NYC but was destroyed due to its depiction of Lenin. Several temporary galleries branch off from the atrium with works created by Mexican artists.

Alameda Central.  The oldest public park in Mexico City just outside of the historic center along Paseo de la Reforma. There are often street performers and festivals held here.

Pyramid of Ehecatl.  An Aztec temple unearthed during the construction of Mexico City’s subway. The ruins are visible in the Pino Suarez station with an exhibit of its discovery and preservation. 

Gran Hotel Terraza.  A rooftop terrace at the grand hotel overlooking Zocolo Square, Catedral Metropolitana and Palacio Nacional. We watched the presidential guard lower the flag at sunset while sipping on mezcalitas. The hotel lobby is equally as impressive with one or the largest Tiffany glass ceilings in the world, creating a beautiful mosaic of colors.

Templo Mayor.  The ruins of Tenochtitlán, the Aztec city destroyed by the Spanish to build colonial Mexico City. A pathway leads through the ruins past several periods of its expansion to its center with a sunken pyramid, with two shrines on top, several ceremonial altars and a museum housing artifacts discovered in Templo Mayor. Plaques tell the story of its ceremonial purposes, expansion, destruction and preservation. 

• Temple Entrance.  A platform featuring statues of snakes with well preserved heads, still baring red paint. 

• The Shrine of Huitzilopochtli.  A shrine at the top of Templo Mayor dedicated to the Mexica god of war. The platform was believed to have been used for human sacrifices and funerals.

• The Shrine of Tláloc.  A shrine at the top of Templo Mayor dedicated to the Mexica god of water. A painted statue of Tláloc holding a bowl for offerings is preserved at the front of the shrine. 

• The House of Eagles.  A platform and temple used by elite Mexicas to perform ritual ceremonies. Protected under a pavilion, the ceremonial sight features stone “banquettes” with bases decorated in ornately carved and painted hieroglyphs.

• Altar Tzompantli.  A alter building with its sides covered in stone carved skull, dedicated to the god of death. 

• Red Temple.  A small temple with walls built from red stone circles and painted in various designs.

Templo Mayor Museum.  A museum housing artifacts discovered at Templo Mayor including carved stone reliefs, statues, the remains of human sacrifices, stone masks, obsidian blades and jewelry. Some of the most important artifacts on display are: 

• Monolith of Tlaltecuhtli.  A giant stone monolith of one of the Aztec’s most important gods. Viewed as source of life, the god was often appeased with blood sacrifices and human hearts. 

• Coyolxauhqui Stone.  A giant round monolith of a dismembered Aztec goddess. It’s one of the largest intact artifacts discovered. 

• Mictlantecuhtli God of Death.  A clay statue of the skeletal looking Aztec god, with its arms extended and claw like hands. 

• Eagle Warrior.  A clay statue of a warrior dressed like an eagle found in The House of Eagles.

• Turquoise Disk.  A small disk made with over 15,000 turquoise pieces depicting warriors.

Bosque de Chapultepec 

Bosque de Chapultepec is the city’s largest park and green space with forested areas and tree covered walkways. At is center is a lake with paddle and row boats, surrounded by vendors selling snacks, street style food, luchador masks and children’s toys. The park acts as a cultural hub with numerous museums and a historic hilltop castle. 

Museo de Arte Moderno.  A modernist and surrealist art museum with painting and pieces depicting Mexican heritage, culture and landscapes by artists like Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, Rufino Tamayo and José Clemente Orozco. One of Frida’s most famous works, Los Dos Fridas (The Two Fridas), is prominently on display. Some pieces, including Diego’s, Velorio o Dia de Muertos, are paired with a wooden orb containing an aroma of what’s pictured.

Museo Nacional de Antropología.  An anthropological museum dedicated to the ancient civilizations and cultures of Mexico. Exhibit halls are dedicated to each group including the Mexica, Aztec, Mayan, Zapotec and Teotihuacan. Artifacts of display include sacrificial stones, statues of gods, carved stelas, ball court rings, jade masks, golden breast plates, painted pottery, human remains and temple reproductions.  Some of the most important artifacts on display are: 

• The Aztec Sun Stone. One of the most famous and recognizable Aztec artifacts discovered, prominently displayed in the Mexica Hall. The complexly carved 12ft diameter stone monolith is often referred to as the “Aztec Calendar.” Baring elements of the calendar, it was used as a sacrificial alter for blood sacrifices.  

• Montezuma’s Headdress.  A replica of the Aztec ruler’s magnificent headdress made from turquoise, red and iridescent green feathers adorned with gold medallions. It’s located in the Mexica Hall. 

• Colossal Olmec Head.  One of the few colossal stone heads of an Olmec ruler discovered. It’s located in the Gulf Coast Hall.

• The Funerary Remains of Pakal The Great.  Referred to as one of the Mayan Empire’s greatest rulers. His funerary offerings including an elaborate mask, beaded jewelry and skeletal remains are displayed in a replica sarcophagus and jade. It’s located in the lower level of the Maya Hall.

• Tlaloc "Señor de la Lluvia."  A massive stone sculpture of the Aztec god of water surrounded by a fountain in outside of the museum.

Coyoacan 

Coyoacan is an authentic and historic neighborhood with a lively center, traditional markets, beautiful colonial era homes and many restaurants. It’s famous as the birthplace and home to Frida Kahlo. 

Centró de Coyoacan.  The central plaza and park is the heart of the neighborhood. It’s a place for all ages and generations to gather, where street performers put on a show, mariachis serenade diners and vendors sell handicrafts, street food, cotton candy and firework poppers. In the middle of the park is a fountain with coyotes playing, they are the symbol and namesake of the neighborhood. Flanking the center is a handicrafts market, a historic cathedral and many restaurants serving traditional Mexican cuisine. 

Mercado Artisanal.  A two level market with stalls of vendors and artists selling alebrijes, calaveras, textiles, books, leather goods and home decor. There are even a few stalls to get tattoos and piercings. 

Mercado San Juan.  A market, very similar to Mercado de Medellin in La Roma, albeit slightly larger in size. Locals come here to shop for produce, meat, spices and home goods, tourists for souvenirs and everyone comes for its food stalls and restaurants.

Casa Azul.  Cayocan is the birthplace and home to many renowned artists, most notably Frida Kahlo. We visited her family home, Casa Azul, named after its vibrant blue painted exterior. While here, we toured her gardens, art studio and many rooms within her house. The museum displayed her artwork, clothes, diaries and braces while explaining the story of her life. Purchase tickets ahead of time on Viator in order to secure a reservation. Once inside, purchase a photography sticker for $30 Pesos. 

Xochimilco

Xochimilco is an ancient Aztec canal system built around floating gardens. It’s best known today for its narrow waterways, colorful gondolas and lively  atmosphere. The canals are a place to fiesta and enjoy a leisurely afternoon while learning about Aztec culture and the haunting legend of La Llorona.

A Fiesta on the Canals

We started our tour at Embarcadero de Cuemanco, one of the main canals in Xochimilco. The canal was lined with dozens of colorful and vibrant gondolas, called Trajineras, and surrounded by a market of shops, restaurants and bars. Before embarking, we picked up cervezas and snacks for our journey. We then met our guide, Maria, at our Trajinera named, Feliz Cumpleaños, fitting for Devin’s birthday. Maria and our rower were ready for us with snacks, music, mezcal and tequila! 

Rest Stops along the Canals 

As we set off, the rower gradually navigated us through the canals using a long wooden stick with occasional stops at various bars for cocktails and restroom breaks. We made 3 stops:

• First at Don Pino, a bar and snack shop. We of course had margaritas

• Second at Chinampa Onkali, where we saw axolotls (cute amphibious salamanders) and had lunch including blue corn quesadillas and tacos. 

• Third at Micheladas el Yogui, an excellent bar with cocktails and shots served in clay pottery. We even brought the pottery home.

Mezcal & Mariachis 

Throughout the tour, not only did we get a little tipsy but we got to see beautiful nature and learn about the Aztec history and construction of the canals. Our rower even let us try guiding the Trajinera! Maybe it was the alcohol but we soon after drifted off course. Towards the end, a Trajinera with a Mariachi band pulled up and serenaded our group with a few songs!

Tips for Visiting

Hire a Guide. Guides can be hired from any of the docks in Xochimilco, however wanting to be a part of a group, we booked ahead of time through Airbnb Experiences with several other travelers. 

Pronunciation.  Xochimilco is pronounced: So-Chee-Mill-Co.

Traffic.  Plan for traffic if booking a tour. It took us an hour and a half to reach Xochimilco from La Roma.

Buy Snacks.  Buy food and drink to enjoy on the boat from the nearby market. Timing.  The best time to come is between 12-1pm when its busy and most festive. Plan to ride in canals for minimum of 2 hours. 

Cash Only.  Everything in Xochimilco is cash only. This includes:

• Cerveza:  20 Pesos

• Cocktails: 50-100 Pesos

• Bathrooms: 5-10 Pesos

• Mariachi Band: 200-400 pesos (dependent on negotiation, quantity of songs and number of people on board)

Teotihuacán 

Teotihuacán is an ancient city with pyramids, ruins, murals and artifacts that predate the Aztecs by over 1,000 years. One of the most popular ways to view the ruins is by hot air ballooning overhead as the sunrises followed by exploring them on foot.

Sun Rise Over Teotihuacán. We booked a sunrise hot air balloon tour from Mexico City to Teotihuacán, a longtime dream that began with a 4am pickup and an early arrival at Sky Balloons Mexico. While checking in, we sipped hot cocoa and watched dozens of vibrant balloons inflate and ignite in the dark. As dawn approached, balloons lifted off one by one. Soon after, we climbed into our basket, drifting gently upward as the sun rose over the hazy landscape, glowing like a brilliant balloon in the sky.

Ballooning Over Teotihuacán.  Floating toward Teotihuacán, we shifted altitudes above the Pyramid of the Sun as colorful balloons filled the air. From above, the Avenue of the Dead and surrounding ruins slowly came into focus, entirely empty and eerily serene before the park opened. We descended over the avenue toward the Pyramid of the Moon and landed softly in a nearby field, celebrating with a champagne toast. Back on the ground, we enjoyed chilaquiles and tropical fruit while overlooking the ruins and balloons floating overhead.

Exploring Teotihuacán

There are many notable sights to see throughout the ancient city. We were able to explore several of them throughout our visit: 

The Avenue of the Dead.  A 1.5 mile long plaza flanked by the Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon as well as many smaller pyramids and stone platforms. Many vendors line up selling obsidian sculptures, howling noise makers and other items. 

The Pyramid of the Sun.  The largest pyramid at Teotihuacán located along the center of the Avenue of the Dead. It faces west overlooking the north and south ends of the avenue. 

The Pyramid of the Moon.  The second largest pyramid at Teotihuacán located at the north end of The Avenue of the Dead. It faces south looking down the entire avenue. 

Palacio de Quetzalpapaloti.  A well preserved palace with stone carvings, painted walls and ruins of ancient rooms. 

Mural del Puma.  A well preserved mural of a cougar on the east side of the Avenue of the Dead halfway between the pyramids of the sun and moon. 

Plaza Oeste.  A plaza along the south west end of the Avenue of the Dead with underground layers of a stepped pyramid, serpent heads and ruins of multiple temple buildings. 

Tips for Visiting

Getting Here.  Teotihuacán is 1 hour 30 minutes from Mexico City. The best way to get here is with a tour group or by renting a car. The advantage of booking with a tour group is that it takes away the hassle of transportation; the disadvantage is that your time is limited. We booked on Get Your Guide. 

Wear Layers.  It’s chilly when arriving before sunrise but quickly heats up during the afternoon. 

Climbing.  The pyramids have been closed for climbing on since 2020.  

Mexican Cuisine 

Mexican cuisine is one of our favorites in the world. While in Mexico City, we made sure to try as many authentic dishes and favors that we would. 

• Chapulines.  Crispy fried grasshoppers. We had them on tacos, as a garnish to dishes, in bars mixed with peanuts and saw them sold in barrels as snacks with a squeeze of lime. 

• Tlayudas.  A cracker thin tortilla topped with various garnishes. Our favorite was from a street vendor in Zocaló Square. It was spread with refried beans and topped with nopales, Oaxacan cheese and hot sauce. 

• Gordita.  Thick corn masa tortillas cooked until puffy, cut open and stuffed with filling. We ordered them from a street vendor on Paseo de la Reforma who stuffed them with beans, cheese and salsa. 

• Churros.  Fried sticks of ridged dough covered in cinnamon sugar and served with dulce de leche, chocolate sauce or sweeten condensed milk.

• Molcajete.  A traditional stone motar heated over fire and filled with protein like steak, chicken or chorizo. In our case, seitan, tofu or shrimp. The protein is topped with salsa, radish, avocado, cheese and draped in grilled nopales.

• Chilaquiles.  Fried corn tortillas simmered in salsa verde or salsa rojo and topped with fried eggs, avocado, onion, cheese, cream and cilantro.

• Mole.  One of Mexico’s most famous and traditional sauces. It’s typically dark brown and made from a mixture of chili peppers, nuts, dried fruits and spices like cinnamon, star anise and cumin. We had this over cheese enchiladas in Coyoacan. 

• Café de Olla.  Coffee brewed with cinnamon and star anise. It’s typically sweetened with raw cane sugar and served in a clay mug.

• Tequila.  The famous liquor made from the sap of the blue agave cactus. We tried it neat and in cocktails. 

• Mezcal.  A smoky version of tequila. We often drank it neat from candle vase typically seen in churches. 

• Pulque.  A yeasty and fermented drink made in the dying core of the agave cactus.

Places to Eat & Drink

We ate and drank at a range of restaurants, cafes and bars across the city, enjoying Mexican cuisine, cocktails, snacks and street food. 

• Café de Tacuba.  An elevated restaurant in the Centro Historico popular amongst locals. Stop in for mid afternoon coffees and fresh pastries. 

• SOM.  A cocktail bar with exclusively Mexican spirits like mezcal, tequila and pulque. We ordered the piñacati & pulquerita. 

• Matuche.  A mezcal bar with mezcals from all across Mexico. Order a flight to sip on or let the bartender make recommendations. 

• Tlachiquero.  A dive bar specializing in mezcal. Join locals in sipping on mezcal from miniature clay jugs and bowls garnished with tajin and orange slices. 

• Taqueria Orinoco.  A popular taqueria for a Mexico City staple, midnight tacos! Open until the early morning hours, we stopped in late at night after a few drinks for avocado tacos and cheese quesadillas accompanied by a spread of salsas. The food is simple, delicious and inexpensive.

• Churrería el Moro.  A cafe on the corner of Parque Mexico serving churros and chocolaty drinks. Order the warm “Español” for dipping or cold “Mexicano” for sipping.

• Pasillo de Humo.  A restaurant serving traditional Oaxacan cuisine including: smoky homemade salsas, charred tortillas, cricket tacos, a caramelized pumpkin dessert and a cart with a variety of mezcals.

• Fonda Fina.  We came here for Devin’s birthday dinner. The restaurant makes classic Mexican dishes with a contemporary twist and creative cocktails.

• Veganion.  A fully vegan restaurant offering Mexican staples traditionally made with meal like a molcajete, tacos al pastor, carne asada and a sope. 

• Restaurant Ave Maria.  A higher end restaurant serving classic Mexican meals like enchiladas in mole, chile relleno with queso and tres leches served on traditional clay dishes 

• Los Danzantes.  Oxacan style and traditional Mexican dishes, located in Coyoacán. 

  Degú Condesa.  A brunch spot with bold coffee and dishes with Mexican flavor like scrambled eggs cooked in salsa verde or a grilled nopal with a fried egg surrounded by a poblano creama sauce.

• Chiquitito Café.  We learned about this cafe from a Duolingo Podcast on Mexico City. It’s a dog friendly cafe with a range of light pastries, breads and coffee.

Tips for Dining Out

• Reservations.  Make reservations at restaurants ahead of time to guarantee a spot.

• Tipping.  Tipping 10% is standard. Tip anything more for exceptional service. 

• Cash.  Carry cash, especially for street food and at the markets. 

• Restrooms.  Carry small coins to use public restrooms, which usually cost 5 pesos. As with many toilets in Central America, don’t flush used toilet paper. It often clogs the plumbing.

• Tap Water.  Avoid drinking tap water due to risk of contamination unless it’s been boiled or filtered.

• Clothing.  Avoid wearing shorts or sandals. This is seen as beachwear and out of place. 

• Mezcal.  Mezcal is much more popular than tequila. 

Where to Stay

Roma Art Deco Apartment.  A private two bedroom Airbnb in the heart of La Roma steps from Parque Mexico. The home is a cozy spot to relax after a full day exploring the city. 

Casa Aimee.  A guest house with several rooms in a family’s home in Roma Sur. The hosts were wonderful and accommodating, allowing us access to their shared kitchen, rooftop dining area and washing machine. They even prepared us barista style coffees every morning. Reserve on Booking.

Getting Around 

Traffic.  Traffic in Mexico City is notoriously congested. The best recommendation is to plan for extra time when getting around.

By Uber.  Ubers were our preferred method of getting around because of how inexpensive and consistent they are. We could travel from the airport to La Roma for $20 or across town for $10. 

By Metro.  The city also has an extensive subway system. Though we didn’t ride it, it looked to be a cheap and effective way of getting around.

For Next Time…

Watch a Lucha Libre Match.  See the colorfully masked wrestlers perform at the Arena Coliseo. 

Visit Puebla.  One of Mexico’s “pueblos magicos,” a colonial town with historic buildings covered in tiled walls and bright colors. 

See more Sights.  The Palacio Nacional, Museo Somaya, Casa y Studio Luis Barrigan and Universidad Nacional Autónoma de Mexico.

Hike the Volcanos.  Three volcanos with hiking trails outside the city including Iztaccihuatl, Nevado de Toluca and Popocatepetl. 

The Bacalar Lagoon, Mexico

The Lagoon of Seven Colors

The Bacalar Lagoon is freshwater lake known as the “Lagoon of Seven Colors,” named for the various shades of blue, green, aquamarine and deep navy. The lagoon is home to colonies of stromatolites, islands with migratory birds, narrow waterways, shallow sand bars, deep cenotes and mangrove forests. It’s the main source of drinking water for the region and beach like retreat for locals and visitors. 

Bacalar Lagoon Tour

The best way to experience the lagoon, its vibrant shades of blue and various sights is by boat. We took a “booze cruise” with Amir Adven Tours Bacalar, visiting three sand bars, tiny islands and deep cenotes. The tour included unlimited beers and tequila cocktails like tequila sunrises, tequila sodas and palomas. Half way through, the crew prepared a floating surfboard with fresh mangos, watermelon, bananas and avocado toast for us to snack on.  

Canal de los Piratas.  A channel used by the ancient Mayans for trading and by pirates for surprise attacked on Bacalar. The tour brought us to a sandbar at the channel’s delta where we swam and drank in the shallow waters. The canal itself was off limits. 

Stromatolites.  Also known as living rocks, the lagoon is a habitat for the planet’s earliest life form, stromatolites. These organisms create mud-like mounds and structures throughout the lagoon. Sections are quartered off to protect the nurseries growing within. 

Cenote de la Bruja.  A cenote measuring over 100 meters deep with jet black water. It’s forbidden to swim in and feared to be cursed by a Mayan woman who was killed during the Spanish conquest. 

Cenote Esmerelda. A large cenote along the edge of the lagoon named for its emerald hued water. It’s one of the main sources that fills the lagoon with freshwater. Beautiful hotels and balnearios line its shore while sand bars with anchored boats and surround its outer edge.

Island of Birds.  A small tree covered island in the middle of the lagoon home to colonies of migratory birds. We visited before many had finished their seasonal migration to the lagoon.

Protecting the Lagoon.  The lagoon is a protected reserve home to fragile ecosystems of stromatolites, mangrove forests and migratory birds. It also serves as a major source of freshwater for the region. Sunblock and single use plastic are banned everywhere in the lagoon. 

Los Rapidos de Bacalar

The Rapids of Bacalar are a narrow river between the Bacalar and Xul-Ha Lagoons home to stromatolites, mangroves, tiny fish and marine birds. We visited a “lagoon club” with access to the river via a boardwalk and kayaks with a seafood restaurant and tables overlooking it.

Drift Snorkeling.  Follow the boardwalk along the river and jump in at its end. Let the currently gently carry you downstream. With snorkels, peer underwater to admire the river banks lined with layers of bubbling stromatolites. 

Lagoon Kayaking.  Rent kayaks and paddle further upstream to a small lagoon. Spend time here floating around and enjoying the peaceful surrounding before lazily paddling back downstream. 

Tips for Visiting: 

• Getting Here.  Hire a taxi from the city center, about 20 minutes away. Taxis should cost no more than 200 pesos one way.

• Admission. 200 Pesos. It includes access to the boardwalk, river, facilities and use of a life jacket.

• Single Kayaks.  200 Pesos for one hour. 

• Lockers. 50 Pesos + 50 Pesos deposit for the duration of your visit. 

• Conservation.  Do not step on or touch the stromatolites. They may look like rocks but ate delicate ecosystems of microorganisms. 

Eco Parque Bacalar

Eco Parque Bacalar is an elevated boardwalk leading through a nature park with mangroves, wetlands and access to the Bacalar Lagoon. From the boardwalk, we overlooked the blue hued lagoon, basked in the sunny rays and cooled off in its refreshing water. Admission costs 20 Pesos. 

Balneario Ejidal Mágico Bacalar

Balneario Ejidal Mágico Bacalar is a “lagoon club” mostly popular with locals. We bought a day pass and rented sun lounges overlooking the lagoon while sipping on Mexican cerveza. Families of locals picnicked under the thatched picnic tables, children slid down small waterslide, people jumped off docks into the lagoon while others lounged in overwater hammocks.

Bacalar Pueblo

Bacalar is a small town centered around the Bacalar Lagoon. The pueblo has a very local atmosphere, less visited than the main tourist hubs of the Rivera Maya. The quiet streets are colored in murals depicting local life and culture. The area has a storied history dating back to the Mayan Empire, Spanish conquest and days of pirate attacks. 

Zocalo Square.  Bacalar’s main square is paved with stone walkways, small playgrounds, a craft market, verdant trees and bushes cut into the shape of roosters. Its surrounding streets are lined with restaurants, cafes, hostels, municipal buildings and the fort. In the late afternoon, vendors arrive with carts selling ice cream, churros, sliced mangos, grilled meats, elote, juices and coffee. 

Marquesitas.  A wafer thin crepe-like roll stuffed and topped with a range of sweet or savory toppings. They’re a commonly sold at competing food carts in the Zocalo Square.

Fort San Felipe.  A historic star shaped fortress with a steep moat and cannons pointing towards the lagoon, built to defend the city against pirate attacks, common during the Spanish colonization. Inside is a small museum dedicated to the history of Bacalar, its importance as a trading post for the Mayans, the brutal Spanish conquest and continual pirate raids. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Cafe Arúgula.  A cafe with health foods, smoothies, agua frescas, coffees and kombuchas. Its shaded outdoor deck is a comfy spot to spend the morning with floor cushions, hammock chairs and low sitting furniture. It’s a popular place with digital nomads and European expats. 

La Burguesía del Pueblo.  A second floor restaurant overlooking the Zocalo Plaza. Come here for Mexican appetizers, burgers and cocktails. 

Fruta Bar Bacalar.  A cocktail bar merging Mexican and Caribbean flavors in a warm and natural space decorated with warm lights, dim candles, tropical plants, dried palm fronds and wooden furniture. It’s connected to a sushi restaurant. We ordered the Spicy Love and The Tiki. 

• Spicy Love. A cocktial made with tequila, mezcal, habanero and grapefruit juice. 

• The Tiki. A cocktial made with mezcal, aperol, passion fruit, pineapple and agave honey.

Panaderia La Tataleta.  A local bakery with traditional Mexican pastries like conchas, medialunas, orejas and Rosca de Reyes. The later is a pan dulce served on 3 Kings Day, an ovular bread ring with colorful candied fruits as decoration. 

Getting Around

By Bus.  Arrive and depart from Bacalar by ADO Bus.  Buses regularly connect Bacalar to various destinations along the Rivera Maya and Yucatán. The lagoon is located about 2 hours from Tulum.

On Foot.  The city center is walkable with hotels, restaurants and sights all within 20 minutes of each other.

By Taxi.  Taxis are fair and affordable in Bacalar. They’re the easiest way to see sights further along the lagoon. Flag one down, negotiate a price and request their WhatsApp for future rides.

Elsewhere in the Yucatán

Explore our guides on The Yucatán Peninsula and the coastal city of Tulum, Mexico for nearby destinations and additional travel inspiration. 

For Next Time…

Ruins of Calakmul.  Calakmul was once one of the most populous and powerful Mayan cities in the Yucatán. Its ruins with pyramids, temples, ball courts, plazas and various structures are buried deep within the jungle near the boarder with Guatemala. We had a full day tour scheduled from Bacalar but had to cancel last minute due to food poisoning. It’s at top of our list next time we return to the Yucatán.  Book here!

Tulum, Mexico

Tulum, Mexico

Tulum is a rapidly growing tourist town with luxury eco resorts, Mayan ruins and access to natural sights like the jungle, cenotes, lagoons and white sand beaches along the Caribbean Sea.

Barrio La Veleta 

We stayed in Barrio La Veleta, a jungleous and up and coming neighborhood of Tulum on the edge of town. It was our favorite part of the city with clothing boutiques, bike & scooter rentals, juice bars, co-working spaces, tattoo shops, cafes, restaurants, bars, trendy barber shops, mini markets and several Oxxo. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Cafe Si To.  A jungelous cafe with tropical plants, a tiny pool and live edge wooden furniture. Their menu offers dishes like chilaquiles, french toast, fresh fruit bowls and avocado toast. Being in Mexico, we each ordered the chilaquiles, one with verde sauce and the other with rojo! 

La Pebeta.  A cafe and bakery with Mexican breakfast dishes. We tried the green bowl made with cactus, spinach and egg whites cooked in a salsa verde and the “divorced eggs” two eggs served on corn tortillas with beans and cheese, covered in salsa verde and salsa rojo.

Tres Galeones.  A Mexican seafood restaurant and taqueria with a lush garden patio and interior that resembles a large wooden ship with port holes, a captains deck and nautical decor. Come here for a local beer like Corona or Pacifico and the seafood tacos and tostones like octopus, soft shell crab, baja style fish, fish al pastor and shrimp.

Panadería La Delicia y Abarrotes.  A local Mexican bakery with over a dozen types of pan dulces (Mexican pastries). We stopped by here twice to buy breakfast and desserts.

Velvet Tulum.  A self serve ice cream shop with a mix of classic and unique soft serve flavors like chocolate, vanilla, pistachio, taro and grape + charcoal. The ice cream is sold by weight and can quickly add up in price.

Parque del Jaguar

Parque del Jaguar is a national park and jungle reserve along the Caribbean Sea with access to the Tulum Ruins, multiple public beaches, restaurants, hotels and beach clubs. The park is open daily from 9am-5pm for a small fee. It’s easily navigable on foot, by bike or public shuttle. 

Parque del Jaguar Mirador.  A large wooden staircase across from Playa Mangle in Parque del Jaguar with views of the lush jungle reserve and Caribbean Coast.

Tulum Hotel Zone

Tulum’s hotel zone is a vibey and tropical neighborhood along the Caribbean with eco-hotels, luxury hostels, beach clubs and nightly outdoor parties. It’s a popular designation with millennial travelers, digital nomads and influencers. Swimsuit clad people ride bicycles and scooters down the palm lined road to white sand beaches and jungleous eco-resorts sculpted from natural materials

Beaches & Beach Clubs

Playa las Palmas.  A powdery white sand beach with shallow aquamarine water perfect for sunbathing, swimming and body surfing. The beach has several restaurants, hotels and bars with lounges and beds for rent. It’s one of the public beaches, accessible through the Parque del Jaguar.

Playa Santa Fe.  A white sand beach with access to the Tulum Ruins. Many boat tours with seaside views of them leave from here.  

Playa Pescadores.  A white sand beach with restaurants, bars and beach clubs. Many snorkeling and fishing tours leave from here. 

Playa Mirador.  A small beach with a large rocky outcrop. The water is rocky but it’s a fun spot to sunbathe and watch the pelicans dive into the water. It’s nearby several beach front hotels and bars.

Ramon’s at Pocna Tulum.  A beachfront restaurant at Playa las Palmas with palm tree shaded beach beds and a sand floor dining room overlooking the beach. Come here for the tropical cocktails like piña coladas or margaritas and Mexican dishes like tacos, ceviche and guacamole.

Club de Playa Zazil-Kin.  A palm covered beach club with lounges and tables in the sand at Playa Pesadores. Come here for the grilled seafood, coconut shrimp, ceviche, Mexican beers and tropical cocktails. 

Mivida.  A beachfront hotel, restaurant and bar with a thatched patio, beach beds and white sand beach. 

Mayan Ruins 

Tulum Ruins. The Tulum Runis are large archeological sight with Mayan structures perched on a cliff overlooking the Caribbean Sea. The complex is surrounded by a stone wall and encompasses multiple well preserved temples and crumbing buildings. The city was thought to be a central trading post for the Mayan empire.

• El Castillo.  The largest and most grand building of the complex with a temple atop of a stone staircase and flanked by two smaller temples. It resides at a high point near the cliff overlooking the Caribbean Sea.

• El Templo de los Frescos.  An intricately designed temple covered in Mayan carvings, figures of gods and red painted imprints of human hands. 

• Templo del Dios Del Descendente.  A stone temple with angled walls and a motif above the doorway of a god descending from the heavens.

• Templo del Dios Del Viento.  A stone temple with several alters on a cliff overlooking the Caribbean. The temple is dedicated to Kukulcan, the God of Wind. 

• Casa del Cenote.  A small stone house built on top of a Cenote. It was thought to be the village’s main source of fresh water.

• La Muralla Defensa y Límite.  The defensive stone wall surrounding three sides of the village with a narrow passageway to enter and exit.

• Pro Tip:  Arrive early, by 8am, to avoid the massive crowds and large tour groups.

Coba Archaeological Site

Coba is a sprawling Mayan city within the lush jungle comprised of multiple acropolises, stone pyramids, temples, platforms, ball courts and stelaes or vertical stone tablets carved in hieroglyphs and depictions of Mayan priests, royalty and warriors. 

Group Nohoch Mul.  An acropolis with two stepped pyramids, a ball court, several small platforms and unearthed ruins. 

• Nohoch Mul Pyramid.  The tallest pyramid in the Yucatan with stepped sides and a central staircase leading to an alter on top. Its crumbling front is fully unearthed while its other side remain buried beneath lush vegetation.

• Observatorio Astronómico de Cobá.  A very well preserved astronomical pyramid with rounded sides, four levels and twenty steps representing the Mayan calendar. It’s fully unearthed and can be viewed on all sides.

• Juego de Pelota.  A well preserved ball court with stone rings centered on two angled walls opposite each other. Each wall has six alters for Mayan royalty to watch from. Inlaid in the floor are carvings of a human skull and beheaded jaguar. 

Group D.  An acropolis with temples, platforms, a pyramid and overgrown Mayan road. 

• Structure 5.  A stepped platform and small temple with the crumbling remains of rounded columns. It’s one of the few ruins that can be climbed on to explore its construction and ceremonial purposes. 

• Conjunto Pinturas.  A multilevel stepped pyramid with rounded corners and a central staircase leading to an alter at its top. A few smaller temples and platforms with rounded columns and stelaes surround its base.

Group Macanxoc.  The furthest acropolis in the ancient city with a plaza home the ruins of temples, platforms and stelaes. 

• Nohuch Mul Plaza.  A plaza with a walled and stepped temple surrounded by several smaller platforms, temples, altars and stelaes.

• Macanxoc Temple.  A partly uncovered pyramid-like temple that can be climbed onto. Its top half and depth are buried under the jungle. At its base is a covered stelae. 

Group Coba.  A grand acropolis at the entrance of Coba with a ball court, platform, pyramid and climbable temple. 

• Juego de Pelota.  A Mayan ball court with two intact stone rings centered on its angled walls. Two stone skulls are inlaid into the side of the pyramid at one end of the ball court. 

• La Iglesia.  A massive complex with a platform supporting a towering pyramid that rises above the jungle canopy and a climbable temple with a tunnel beneath its steps and alters at its top. Intricate stelaes with Mayan hieroglyphs and images are on display throughout the complex. 

Tips for Visiting Coba

• Getting to Coba by Oriente Bus.  The bus schedule is only confirmed on the day of. Arrive when the bus station opens to buy tickets. Tickets are one way and cash only. It takes less than an hour to reach Coba. The bus stops about 10 minutes on foot from the Coba ticket office. 

• Getting to Coba by Collectivo. Shared taxis vans depart from the corner of Calle Osiris Norte and Cancun-Chetumal, a block from the bus terminal. Vans depart between 9-10am. Fares cost 100 pesos per person.

• Returning to Tulum by Collectivo.  Flag down a collectivo on the main road in the town of Coba. Drivers will depart once the van is full of passengers. The wait can take up to 2 hours. Fares cost 100 pesos per person. 

• Tickets.  If entering on foot, there are two entry tickets. An infrastructure fee costing around 100 pesos and the entrance fee costing around 95 pesos. 

• Rent Bike.  The best way to get around is by renting a bike. With a bike, the entire complex can be seen in about 3 hours. Bikes are available to rent just after entering the park for around 65 pesos. 

• Restoration Work. Many of the stelas are undergoing restoration and covered in plastic tarps. 

• Access.  No pyramids can be climbed on. Some temples and platforms have can be climbed on. 

Cenotes

Cenotes de Sac Actún. Sac Actún is the world’s largest known network of underground rivers, caves and cenotes. We snorkeled through 3 flooded cenotes and connecting chambers within the cave system filled with stalactites and stalagmites. As we swam, the subtle current pulled us through the cool fresh water, bats flew overhead and fish swam beneath us.

• Open Air Cenote.  We descended a wooden staircase and waded into the water of an open air cenote, one without a ceiling. Light streamed in from above as water slowly dripped from stalactites into the clear blue water, echoing off the surrounding stone walls. From here, a series of caves lead deeper into the underground maze. 

• Semi-Open Cenote.  From the first cenote, we swam through a passageway into a semi open chamber with a hole in the ceiling and a tree growing through it. The Mayans referred to this as the tree of life, connecting the underworld to the living world above. 

• Enclosed Cenote.  We snorkeled back to the first cenote and entered a narrow passageway covered in stalactites hanging just above our heads. Looking under water, stalagmites pointed up at us and dark flooded passageways lead deeper into the earth. The main chamber was a truly magnificent spectacle with a fully enclosed ceiling dripping in thousands of stalactites and dangling roots from trees above. It felt like swimming inside of a geode. 

• Getting Here from Tulum.  We looked into biking here (way too far), taking a bus (there is no bus), joining a tour or renting a car (far too expensive). We hired a taxi for a half day, costing 2,000 Pesos, to pick up us, bring us to the cenote, wait for us and drop us off at the beach in Tulum. 

Rio Secreto. We descended through a cenote into a flooded cave system, trekking through knee deep water and swimming through deeper sections. Headlamps illuminated the water in a blue glow, revealing tiny shrimp and catfish. The dark, wet cave was mesmerizing, with ever-changing chambers filled with ancient flow stones, marine fossils, spear like stalactites, nubby stalagmites and crystalline columns.

• Jungle Adventure.  After exploring the caves, we biked along gravel trails through the jungle to a zip-line park, spotting a venomous coral snake and a bright blue butterfly along the way. There, we rode four zip-lines through narrow gaps in the trees and rappelled 10 meters into a cenote. 

• No Phones or Cameras Allowed.  Trying to keep the experience a “secret,” and charge for photos, the operator does not allow phones or cameras in the park. It allowed us to disconnect and take in the beauty of the cave and experience.

• Book the Rio Secreto Plus Tour.  We booked the full day Rio Secreto Plus Tour. It included a guided tour of the cave system, biking through the jungle, zip lining, repelling, all the gear for the activities, round trip transportation from Tulum and a buffet style taco bar for lunch. 

• Request the “Supreme Trail”.  In order to accommodate the 500 to 1,000 daily visitors, we were divided up into small groups of 12. Each group was staggered and assigned different a different trial through the caves. Of the five trials, we were assigned the “Supreme Trail.” Allowing us to experience a little of everything within the cave system. 

Gran Cenote.  A popular open air cenote just outside of Tulum. We swam and snorkeled around the cool fresh water, entering narrow caves and large chambers with massive stalactites and colonies of bats. Light streams through the blue water, illuminating the deep caves extending further into the abyss while families of turtles and tiny fish swim alongside snorkelers. A dark cave connects the Gran Cenote to Baby Cenote, a smaller open air cenote with light blue water and an island in its middle. 

Tips for Visiting Gran Cenote 

• Getting Here.  Gran Cenote is located outside of Tulum. It takes 30 minutes to bike to from the city center. 

• Hours.  Entry times fluctuate. Arrive at opening to avoid the crowds.

• Tickets. Entry fees cost 500 pesos per person, cash only. Admission includes snorkel masks. 

• Lockers.  Lockers are available for rent for around 30 pesos. 

• Self Guided.  The cenote can be explored without a guide but its required to wear a life jacket.

Where to Stay

We stayed at an Airbnb in Barrio La Veleta, We had a second floor condo with a kitchen and private roof deck to ourselves. It was the perfect escape, merging both nature and city.

Getting Around

By Bike.  The most affordable way to explore Tulum is by bike! There are rentals across the city charging between 100-200 pesos per day. We rented from La Veleta Rental Bike, charging only 100 pesos per day.

By Taxi.  Taxis are available across the city. Rates around 200 pesos to get across town. The safest location to hire a taxi is a street stands called Sitio de Taxi. Always negotiate price before getting in.

By Bus.  The ADO Bus is the best way of getting around the Yucatan with routes connecting Tulum to nearby and regional cities. Book tickets online ahead of time.

Elsewhere in the Yucatán

Explore our guides on The Yucatán Peninsula and The Bacalar Lagoon for nearby destinations and additional travel inspiration.

The Yucatán Peninsula

The Yucatán Peninsula

The Yucatán Peninsula is a tropical destination that exudes all around vacation vibes with white sand beaches, warm turquoise water, beachfront hotels & resorts. At the same time, it’s an adventurous destination with jungleous terrain, marine reserves, cenotes and historic sights including Mayan pyramids, temple complexes and colonial old towns. 

Cancún

Cancún is popular tourist town with resorts, cruise docks, late night clubs, white sand beaches and warm turquoise waters. It’s the entry point to the Yucatán Peninsula with many access to sights and cities along the Mexican Riviera. We’ve visited here a few times over the years for weekend getaways and a wedding. 

Cancun Centro.  A safe and central neighborhood near the ADO bus station, close to the beach and the ferries to Isla Mujeres. It has less touristy atmosphere than the hotel zone with boutique hotels, high end hostels, Mexican restaurants, tequila bars, cute cafes, small plazas and tropical parks.

Hotel Zone. The hotel zone of Cancun is the most touristy neighborhood of the city with white sand beaches hugging the turquoise sea, craft and souvenir markets, restaurants, bars and nightclubs. As its name implies, its where many large hotels, resorts and condo buildings are located. Many have access to the beach, offering public access with chair and umbrella rentals.

Things to Do

Visit The Beach.  All along the coast of Cancún, powdery white sand shores hug the warm turquoise water. Many hotels, resorts and apartment buildings in the hotel zone have access to the beach front. Most have public access with chair and umbrella rentals. The most accessible beach in the Hotel Zone is Playa Chacmool. 

Shop for Handicrafts.  Colorful and traditional Mexican handicrafts make for an amazing keepsake. Shop the stalls at Flea Market Cancun in the Hotel Zone for items like alebrijes, luchador masks, maracas, ceramics, beach towels and clothes.

Places to Eat & Drink

El Socio Naiz Taquería.  A cocktail bar and taqueria with elevated tacos served on blue, yellow or pink corn tortillas with a variety of traditional and exotic toppings. We ordered vegan tacos, the Bob Marley and El Remiks. The first came with sautéed hibiscus flowers mixed with onion and carrot, topped with dollops of chipotle aioli and guac. The second was made with two types of spiced vegan meats topped with an onion jam. We paired these with tequila and mezcal cocktails!

Taqueria El Mexicano.  A basic and inexpensive taqueria with Mexican staples like tacos, chips and salsa, guacamole and margaritas. 

Lorenzillo’s.  A high end restaurant with a beautiful wooden interior and deck overlooking the lagoon. We came here for a lobster dinner. 

Restaurante Natura.  A vegan breakfast cafe with a lush patio and furniture carved out of tree stumps. Order the huevos rancheros and chilaquiles. 

Ah Barbaro.  A restaurant specializing in inexpensive tacos. We tried the fish tacos and grilled raja tacos with a Corona and lime.

Chichén Itzá

Chichén Itzá  is large Mayan archeological complex with a steeped pyramid, the ruins of temples, a massive ball court, an astronomical observatory and well preserved hieroglyphs. 

El Castillo.  The massive and well preserved stepped pyramid at the center of Chichén Itzá. We circled all 4 sides of it, taking in its grandeur and marveling at its intricate designs. 

Gran Juego de Pelota.  The largest Mayan ball court ever discovered. It’s flanked by two temples and “bleachers” decorated in carvings depicting how the game was played. 

Tzompantli.  A stone platform designed with walls covered in carvings of human skulls. 

Warriors' Temple.  The ruins of a large temple with stacked stone columns, overgrown platforms and Mayan hieroglyphs. 

Cenote Ik Kil.  A cenote nearby Chichén Itzá with swimmable blue waters. We came here to cool off in the refreshing oasis. Little fish swam around us as we floated in the water listening to the echo of other swimmers bounce off the vine covered stone walls around us.

Tips for Visiting Chichén Itzá

• Getting to Chichén Itzá. The ADO Bus is the best way to get to Chichén Itzá. Buses leave from Cancun most mornings, returning in the mid afternoon. The bus takes between 3-4 hours allows about 4 hours to explore the ruins and nearby denotes. 

• Wear Sun Protection.  Wear sunscreen or bring and an umbrella to protect from the sun. 

• Stay Hydrated.  Bring water to stay hydrated. It gets very hot! 

Isla Mujeres

Isla Mujeres is a sleepy island off the coast of Cancun with a small town, hotels, beaches and tour companies offering snorkeling tours. It’s accessible by ferry or boat. 

Punta Sur

Punta Sur is the southern point of Isla Mujeres and most eastern point of Mexico. The tip of the island is lined with nature trails, cliffside caves, jagged rock formations and many free roaming iguanas.

Punta Norte

Punta Norte is a tourist town with restaurants, bars, hotels, souvenir shops, tour companies, street vendors and white sand beaches on the north side of the island. 

Miguel Hidalgo.  A pedestrian street with restaurants, bars, souvenir shops and tour agencies in Punta Norte. 

Playa El Cocal.  A sand beach with shallow turquoise water and sand bars stretching hundreds of feet into the water. Come here for snorkeling, swimming and sun bathing. The best snorkeling is beneath the wooden bridge leading to the MIA Reef Hotel. 

Playa Centro.  A white sand beach in Punta Norte near the ferry terminal with restaurants, hotels, beach rentals and tour companies. 

Snorkeling & Island Tour

We booked a snorkeling tour to explore Isla Mujeres and the crystal clear waters surrounding the island.  Our first stop brought us to Barquito Hundido, a snorkeling point with many tropical fish and underwater sculpture garden. 

From here, we moored offshore near Playa El Cocal on Island Mujeres where we swam, snorkeled and ventured onto shore. We were given a couple hours for beach time, shopping and exploring the island. 

Afterwards, we boated to Playa Tiburon, a beach and restaurant named for the shark that is kept in a fenced area off shore. We ate lunch grilled barracuda and drank margaritas for lunch. Back on the boat, we continued to boat around the island’s vibrant blue waters while jamming out to Bachata music and drinking tequila. 

We booked with Isla Mujeres Tours. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Coconut Vendors.  Having a craving for coconuts, we stopped by a street vendor selling coconut paletas (popsicles) and another selling fresh coconuts. We drank the coconut water then had it husked open and the “meat” prepared with hot sauce and lime juice.

Green Demon.  A beach front restaurant with umbrellas, light bites and cocktails.

Lancheros Mexican Seafood.  A seafood restaurant in the pier near the ferry terminal. We came here for dinner before catching the last ferry back to Cancun.

Acantilado.  A small outdoor restaurant at Punta Sur. We came here for ceviche and cerveza.

Getting Around 

By Ferry.  Take the ferry from the Puerto Juarez Terminal in Cancun. We booked roundtrip tickets with Ultramar for around $25. 

By Golf Cart.  The easiest way to get around the island is by golf cart. Rent one from Coco Cart Rental near the ferry terminal. Prices are negotiable. A half day rental can cost anywhere from $50 to $100.

Fishing in Puerto Natales

Visit the seaside village of Puerto Natales and hire a local fisherman to arrange a fishing tour. Our group boarded a fishing boat for a half day tour and caught several fish including red snapper, bonito, porgie, sea bass and a 44 inch barracuda. The captain filleted the barracuda and mixed it with lime juice, habanero, tomato and cilantro to create one of the freshest ceviches we’ve ever had. Of course, there were Mexican beers and tequila on board.

Playa del Carmen 

Playa del Carmen is a very touristy beach town along the Rivera Maya with large resorts, adventure parks, beach clubs and ferries to the island of Cozumel. We took a day trip here to meet family, eating and drinking our way across the city center. 

Quinta Avenida.  A very touristy pedestrian street in the center of town with tequila shops, t-shirt vendors, silver jewelry stores, souvenir malls with aisles of colorful trinkets, the expected tourist traps, tour operators and chain restaurants. The lengthy street is a hub for activity with thousands of vacationers, live performers, shop owners calling out “hola amigo” and  colorful Mexican banderas draped overhead. 

Fundadores Beach.  A large white sand beach in the city center with restaurants, hotels and beach bars. It’s a popular spot for tourists and locals to enjoy the Caribbean sun and bright blue water. 

Parque Los Fundadores.  A treelined park between the Fundadores Beach and Quinta Avenida with singing musicians, dancing performers, mariachi bands and Mayan rope swingers.

Places to Eat & Drink

Other than visiting the beach and shops, Playa del Carmen has a decent food scene with restaurants, cafes and bars all around town. 

Mexico Loco.  An authentic and energetic Mexican restaurant in the center of town with dishes like table-side guacamole, mixed seafood ceviche, cheese quesadillas and nachos covered in mole. They serve the largest margaritas we have ever drank, local beers and overflowing shots of tequila. While dining, dancing performers and guitar strumming musicians serenaded us with song. 

La Bodeguita del Medio.  A restaurant and bar that feels more like Cuba than Mexico. Bottles of Cuban rums line the bar adjacent to a humidor with boxes of Cuban cigars. The walls and warmly lit lights are covered in hand written notes and signatures from years of previous guests. We sat at the long wooden bar sipping on Havana Club while a Cuban brass band performed on stage and couples danced salsa behind us.

El Gober Marisqueria.  A seafood restaurant with freshly caught fish, live lobsters and Caribbean dishes. We ordered the patacones and a seafood tower, a poke style dish layered with tuna, shrimp, octopus, white fish, tomato, avocado, cucumber and avocado surrounded by a pool of spicy sauce.

The Lost Tiki.  A tiki bar in a thatched restaurant with colorful tiki mugs. To be honest, the drinks weren’t the greatest but the pan fried edamame served in a bowl of umami sauce helped make up for it. 

ARCANA.  A vibey outdoor cafe surrounded by tropical plants and decorated with pink and green accents. We tried the coconut tahini latte and the rose pedal tea.

Places to Stay in Cancun 

Having visited multiple times, we’ve stayed in a beach front apartment, millennial style hostel and resort.

Enigmatic Hotel Experience Cancun.  A high end hostel with spacious and comfy private rooms. The hotel has its own restaurant, rooftop bar, co-working space, tattoo parlor, outdoor lounge and pool. They host daily events and activities and have a sister hotel down the street, Nomads Hotel & Rooftop Pool Cancun.

Carisa y Palma Apartments.  An apartment complex in the Hotel Zone with vacation rentals. Our room had a balcony overlooking the Caribbean and city. It’s located on Playa Chacmool with beach access.  Book here! 

Dreams Riviera.  An all inclusive resort just outside of the fishing village of Puerto Morales. We’re not usually the resort type but came here for a wedding. The restaurants, facilities and activities made it the perfect place to celebrate and relax. Book here!

Getting Around 

Airport Bus.  From the Cancun Airport, take an ADO bus to the Cancun Bus Terminal for 140 pesos per person. It drops off 10 minutes on foot from the city center. Take a taxi from here to elsewhere in the city. 

ADO Bus.  The ADO bus is the best way to get around the Yucatan Peninsula with terminals in most cities and towns with buses departing regularly. They’re safe, affordable and reliable!

Good to Know:  Ubers cannot pick up from the airport. Taxis cost an exorbitant amount.

Elsewhere in the Yucatán

Explore our guides on the coastal city of Tulum, Mexico and The Bacalar Lagoon for nearby destinations and additional travel inspiration around the Yucatán. 

For Next Time…

Having visited pockets of the Yucatán, primarily centered around the Rivera Maya, we plan to venture westwards to the colonial cities of Merida, Valladolid and Campeche as well as Isla Holbox on the Gulf of Mexico.