Maya Ruins Travel Guide: Jungles, Temples & Ancient Cities

Exploring the Maya Jungle

Deep within the lush jungles of Belize and Guatemala are some of the Mayan civilizations most sacred sights. Ancient acropolises reside at the center of lost cities while overgrown ruins and towering pyramids rise from the dense jungle canopy. Sacred caves and their vast chambers entomb sacrificial remains and historic artifacts. Remote towns offer places to taste local cuisine, meet over travelers and reenergize in nature. 

Caracol Mayan Ruins 

Caracol is an ancient Mayan city within the Belizean jungle. It’s ruins and acropolises are comprised of pyramids, ball courts, astronomic observatories, royal tombs, reservoirs and hieroglyphs. 

The Sky Palace.  A three tiered pyramid named Caana, which translates to “Sky Palace.” It has remained the tallest built structure in Belize for over 3,000 years! We climbed steep stone steps to its upper level, explored its rooms, crawled into a royal tomb and looked across Belize and into Guatemala from above the jungle canopy. 

Astronomical Acropolis.  Astronomy was one of the cornerstones of the Mayan Civilization. They built structures to track the solstices, study the stars and connect to their gods. The astronomical acropolis at Caracol is one of the most significant to be discovered. It’s flanked by temples, pyramids and a ball court. 

Wildlife Spotting.  The remoteness of the archeological park emphasizes the ancient and abandoned nature of the site. As we explored, we heard the billowing grunts of howler monkeys and spotted the reclusive Quetzal, Guatemala’s national bird. 

Caracol Tour.  We visited Caracol on a small group tour from San Ignacio, traveling about two hours along back roads through dense jungle to reach the ruins. The tout included a local lunch of rice & beans, fried plantains, spiced & stewed tofu and drank rum punch. We booked with Maya Walk Tours through Viator. 

Tikal National Park

Once the epicenter of the Mayan civilization, Tikal is the largest Mayan city ever constructed. Formerly home to 150,000 people and more than 2,000 structures, it’s now dramatically reclaimed by nature. Its ruins reveal the achievements, ceremonies and eventual collapse of the ancient Maya. Nature trails link towering temples, buried mounds and ongoing excavations while wildlife such as toucans, parrots, spider monkeys, and foxes roam the surrounding forest. We explored the ancient wonder on a cross border day trip from Belize to Gatemala. 

Temple of the Double Headed Serpent.  A ceremonial temple and the largest at Tikal. It’s crumbling ruins rise 70 meters from the jungle canopy. Stairs lead to its upper levels with views of the expansive jungle canopy and distant temples protruding from it. We imagined what the city must have looked like from this vantage point during its peak. 

Fun Fact.  The view from this temple is made famous by s scene in Star Wars when the Millennium Falcon landed on the rebel moon base of Yavin 4.

Temple of the Jaguar Priest.  One of the tallest temples at Tikal. It’s upper levels rise from the jungle canopy while it’s base is overgrown with vegetation. The temple is not accessible bt can be viewed through the trees below and from Temple IV. 

The Lost World Complex.  A large ceremonial complex with multiple temples, pyramids and an astronomical acropolis. It’s largest pyramid has an observation deck overlooking several nearby temples and pyramids across Tikal.  

The Talud Tablero Temple.  A temple within The Lost World complex featuring architectural influences from the Teotihuacan civilization. Climbable steps lead up its wide base and sloped levels to an exposed room at its top. 

Plaza of Seven Temples.  A linear astronomical acropolis with seven pyramids and temples designed to track the solstices and study the stars. Many of the structures remain overgrown and only partially exposed. 

The North Acropolis.  The most well preserved and recognizable acropolis at Tikal. Its central plaza framed by multiple pyramids, residential structures and a ball court. Once home to Mayan royals and the burial site of past rulers, it features tombs and stelae. The complex is largely free to explore, including the opportunity to climb two of its pyramids for sweeping views of neighboring structures and close-up looks at their detailed carvings and hieroglyphs.

Temple of the Great Jaguar.  The most picturesque pyramid at Tikal residing at the center of the North Acropolis. It’s ten level stepped sides lead to a throne room at its top. Though non-accessible, the temple can be view from the plaza and Temple II

The Temple of Masks.  A large stepped pyramid with a shrine at its upper level featuring eroded carvings of two masks. It offers the best views of the North Acropolis and 

Getting Here.  We visited Tikal with Belize Family Excursions on a day trip from San Ignacio. Our tour included transportation across the boarder of Belize and Guatemala, free time to explore the ruins and lunch at a local restaurant in Guatemala. 

Actun Tunichil Muknal Cave

Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM) is one of the most sacred places to the ancient Mayans, considered the entrance to the underworld. The sprawling cave system features an underground river and breathtaking rock formations. The chambers of the cave contain sacrificial human remains and Mayan pottery. The cave is well protected, with only a limited number of visitors permitted to enter per day.

The Entrance of the Underworld 

A hike through the jungle and across three shallow rivers leads to the entrance of the cave. A striking blue river flows from the darkness of its mouth. We swam inside with headlamps lighting the way. We squeezed through tight crevices and water filled passages before entering wider chambers and climbing over rocks as the river moved around us. Along the way, we admired clusters of stalactites and stalagmites used as musical instruments, like a xylophone, by the ancient Maya when tapped on. We scrambled up to a cliff to access the cave’s vast second half.

Ceremonial Chambers 

At this point, we removed our shoes and continued in our socks out of reverence of what awaited. We stepped into a massive cathedral like chamber with columns of rock, sparkling stalactites and mineral pools. Countless pieces of 1,000 year old pottery lay all around us, many of which remained mostly intact. Carved stalagmites cast shadows said to depict stories of Mayan gods. As we moved deeper, we encountered skeletal remains of sacrificial victims, including skulls and the bones of infants, culminating in the haunting sight of two calcified and exceptionally well preserved skeletons at the chamber’s furthest reach.

Mayan History

The ancient Mayans visited Actun Tunichil Muknal to make sacrifices in hopes the gods would provide water and end an extensive drought. When the rituals failed, the Mayan’s abandoned many parts of Belize and Guatemala leaving behind the ruins of their ancient cities.

Tips for Visiting Actun Tunichil Muknal:

• Less than 200 people are allowed in per day. We booked ahead of time with Maya Walk Tours on Viator.

• Phones, cameras, food and water bottles are prohibited. Photos provided are courtesy of Maya Walk Tours. 

• The trailhead to ATM is located over an hour from San Ignacio by car. 

• Like our tour of Caracol, it included a similar lunch. 

• You will get wet! Bring an extra pair of clothes and shoes to change into. 

Rio Frio Cave 

A sacred cave with a massive entrance, chamber and series of rock formations, including one resembling the profile of a monkey.  The ancient Maya believed the god of rain, Chacc, resided here, often appearing as a cloud of mist exiting the cave in the early morning. Visits are usually included on excursions to Caracol. 

Rio in Pool

Relaxing in Belize’s mountain rivers is a popular local pastime. The Rio in Pools are natural river pools formed in the bedrock of the Rio Frio. Contrary to the name, the pools are not cold but quite tepid. They are surrounded by a pine forest known as the pine ridge mountain. 

Western Belize 

Even in more remote areas of Western Belize are small towns and cities with thriving local culture, markets, restaurants and festivals. 

Cayo District.  A jungleous region of Belize on the west side of the country bordering Guatemala. It is home to lush terrain, underground rivers and most notably, Mayan ruins and temples. 

San Ignacio.  The main city in the Cayo District with a local and backpacker vibes. It’s a hub for eco activities and excursions on both sides of the Belize and Guatemalan boarders. 

Burns Avenue.  A pedestrian street in the center of San Ignacio with hostels, shops, restaurants, bars and tour operators. We visited in early may during the Cinco de Mayo Festival. The street was decorated with colorful banderas and came to life at night with music, fireworks and vendors selling street food. We ate papusas, tortas, and sambusas while sipping on margaritas and the local beer, Belikin. 

Bullet Tree Falls.  A remote town 5km from San Ignacio in the middle of the jungle only accessible by dirt road. We stayed here at the Mahogany Hall. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Lola’s Restaurant and Bar.  An outdoor patio perched on the hill overlooking San Ignacio. The menu was heavily seafood based. We ordered the herbed fish, blackened fish, conch & octopus ceviche as well as a few cocktails.

Ko Ox Han Nah.  A popular restaurant for Belizean cuisine made from local ingredients, mostly sourced from the San Ignacio Market. We ordered the whole fried red snapper and garlic rum shrimp with sides of coconut rise. 

Booze and Branches.  An open air bar circling a large tree with twinkle lights and linen draped pergolas made from branches. They offered classic cocktails like margaritas, mojitos, sangria and rum-ritas.

Guava Limb. A locally recommended restaurant on Burns Ave with a fusion of foods from Belize and South East Asia as well as brick oven pizza. We spent hours here chatting with a new friend, Jacob, who we met during our excursion to Actun Tunichil Muknal.

Coffee de los Mayas.  A coffee shop with a walk-up counter located on Burns Ave. 

San Ignacio Market.  A daily farmers market held near the center of town from 6am to 5pm. Local vendors set up stands selling vegetables, fruits, honey, souvenirs and street food. Come here for breakfast at Magaly’s Fast Food, sorrel (hibiscus juice) & horchata (sweetened rice milk).

Belizean Cuisine  

• Fry Jacks.  Deep-fried pieces of dough served with refried beans and tropical fruit.

• Salbutes.  Deep fried corn tortillas topped with veggies or meat. 

• Pupusas.  A white corn arepa stuffed with various fillings or toppings. We had the bean and cheese pupusas. 

• Escapeche.  Chicken and onion stewed in a curry sauce. We were offered a vegetarian version made with tofu during lunches on our excursions. 

• Sorrel.  Hibiscus juice. 

• Marie Sharps.  A popular habanero hot sauce seen on nearly every dining table throughout Belize. 

• Belikin.  Belize’s national beer with a Mayan temple on its label. 

Where to Stay

We stayed at, Mahogany Hall, an eco hotel along the banks of the Mopan River in the town of Bullet Tree Falls. It was a peaceful location in the middle of the tropical jungle. Our room was accented with mahogany furniture with carvings of jaguars, toucans and tropical plants. The hotel has a restaurant, bar and infinity pool. We enjoyed breakfast here most mornings and a Belikin by the pool during the evenings. 

The Mopan River.  While here, we joined locals and waded in Mopan River to cool off from the afternoon heat. We lounged on the shallow river bed as the current gently passed by and tropical birds chased each other over head.  

Getting Around 

Airport Shuttle.  We shuttled to and from the airport and our hotel in Bullet Tree Falls with Belize Family Adventure through Viator. Transportation took less than two hours and was a good way to see the countryside.

Excursions. All of our excursions included transportation. We were either picked up from our hotel or at the operator’s office before being shuttled to our destination.

By Taxi. In San Ignacio, taxis were easy to find and would more than often find us. Identifiable by their green license plates with white letters. We took the number of one taxi driver, Apellio, who quickly became our driver while in town.Taxis cost $20-25 Belize Dollars ($10-$12.50 USD) between Bullet Tree Falls and San Ignacio. 

On Foot.  San Ignacio is a relatively small town and can be easily walked on foot.

Location Specifics

Currency. The Belizean Dollar and US Dollar are used interchangeably across the island. At the time, the exchange rate was 1 USD to 2 BLZ, making conversions and transactions easy. 

Cash vs Card.  Carry cash for for taxis, snacks and tips. 

Language.  English is the most commonly spoken language in Belize. Spanish is most commonly spoken in Guatemala. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption due to risk of contamination. Only drink filtered or bottled water. 

Elsewhere in Belize & Guatemala 

From colonial architecture to lakeside villages beneath towering volcanoes and Caribbean coral reefs discover more of Guatemala's and Belize’s rich history and landscapes.

Antigua Guatemala Travel Guide: Acatenango, Colonial Charm & Local Cuisine.  Explore Antigua Guatemala's cobblestone streets, colonial architecture and local cuisine beneath towering volcanoes, including the iconic hike to Acatenango and Fuego. 

Lake Atitlán Travel Guide: Villages, Volcanoes & Mayan Culture. Navigate between Lake Atitlán's lakeside villages where volcanic landscapes and living Mayan culture shape one of Guatemala's most remarkable destinations.

Caye Caulker Travel Guide: Snorkeling, Belize Barrier Reef & Island Life. Dive into Caye Caulker's turquoise waters for world class snorkeling in the Belize Barrier Reef while embracing the island's tropical spirit and Go Slow motto.

For Next Time…

We fell in love with the jungle, Mayan ruins and culture of Belize and Guatemala. We will certainly be back one day and have plans to visit more locations across both countries. 

Altun Ha.  A Mayan acropolis with pyramids, temples, ball courts and platforms on the mainland north of Belize City. 

Tikal Sunrise Hike.  An early morning hike in Tikal to watch the sunrise from the top of the famed pyramids. We saw photos of the colorful sunrise, layers of morning mist and dramatic ruins peak from jungleous canopy below.

Flores, Guatemala.  A picturesque island city on Lago Petén Itzá known for it’s colorful architecture and proximity to Mayan ruins. 

Caye Caulker Travel Guide: Snorkeling, Belize Barrier Reef & Island Life

Caye Caulker, Belize

Caye Caulker, Belize is a small Caribbean island with a tropical atmosphere and laid back way of life. The slow and sleepy vibes are emphasized by the islands motto “Go Slow.” Its sand covered streets, named after marine life, are lined with colorful wooden buildings, many of which are elevated on stilts. Conch shells decorate yards as palm trees sway above and pelicans flock overhead. Reggae beats play from beachfront bars, tours depart for the Belize Barrier Reef and locals sell handmade shell jewelry. The island is touristy but not overly developed allowing it to retain its character. 

The Belize Barrier Reef

The Belize Barrier Reef is the second largest coral reef in the world, stretching hundreds of miles along the Caribbean shores of Belize. The reef’s multi-hued blue waters are home to vast coral formations, low lying atolls, mangrove islands and tidal sand bars. The reef is teeming with all manner of marine life, making it a popular spot for snorkelers like us as well as divers, fishers and sailors. We were able to experience the reef from above and below, flying over parts of its expanse to The Blue Hole and snorkeling in the Hol Chan Marine Reserve. 

Seven Spot Snorkeling Tour 

We booked a snorkel tour stopping at seven points around Caye Caulker and The Great Belize Barrier Reef, including Shark Ray Alley and the Hol Chan Marine Reserve. 

The Coral Gardens.  A healthy reef home to a variety of colorful coral formations. Corals sway in the gentle currents as schools of tropical of fish swim past. 

Hol Chan Marine Reserve.  A protected marine reserve with an vast array of biodiversity and sea life. Our guide led us through an underwater “snorkel trail” to spot some of the reserve’s best sights. Between the giant coral formations, he pointed out countless species of marine life including a moray eel, barracudas, parrot fish, angelfish, blue striped grunts, horse eye jacks, sea fans, giant anemones, conches, christmas tree worms, sea urchins, sand dollars and a puffed up pufferfish with the scariest green eyes. 

Shark Ray Alley.  A grassy sandbar and feeding area with dozens of nurse sharks. We snorkeled and swam alongside them as they circled the boat and came within feet of us. Green sea turtles grazed in the open field of seagrass while small fish swam around pockets of corals. 

The Sunken Barge.  An underwater wreck now overgrown with lively corals and schools of colorful, striped and tropical reef fish. We snorkeled above the wreck and watched as fish swam in and out of holes in the ship. 

On our return to Caye Caulker, we stopped at Manatee Point, Tarpon Cove and Stingray Beach to spot manatees, tarpon, stingrays and seahorses. The full day tour included fresh fruit, lunch, rum punch and snorkel equipment. We booked with Salt Life Eco Tours on Get Your Guide. 

The Great Blue Hole Fly Over Tour 

The Great Blue Hole is a perfectly round geological formation famed for its deep blue color contrasted by lighter blues of the surrounding shallows. It was created by an underwater sink hole that collapsed and filled with seawater, giving it its color. We flew over it as if in a trance, circling from different altitudes on both sides of the airplane. In route, we flew over cayes, small islands, atolls, corals reefs and drop offs that created an intense spectrum of blue hues ranging from aquamarine to bright blue, turquoise, deep blue and navy. Looking out the windows, we were mesmerized by the blue beauty of the Caribbean and Belize Barrier Reef. The flight lasted about an hour. Though expensive, it is a sight worth seeing! We booked directly with Maya Island Air.

Things to Do 

Sunset Tiki Bar Cruise.  In love with all things tiki, we joined several others aboard the “Pontiki,” a pontoon boat converted into a floating tiki bar with a palm thatched roof and side skirt, bamboo railing, kitschy tiki decor, one of a kind tiki mugs and bamboo straws. Most importantly, the cruise included the booziest rum punch made with Belizean rums. For nearly two hours, our captain boated us around the Caye, refilling our tiki mugs and bringing us to the perfect spot for a Caribbean sunset. We booked with Nina’s Pontiki Cruises on Viator. 

Visit The Split.  The Split is a narrow channel separating the north and south sides of Caye Caulker. It is the informal center of the island and common departure point for tours. Visit The Lazy Lizard,  a beach club with an outdoor restaurant, expansive bar and music venue. Their pier is lined with colorful wooden lounges, tables shaded by thatched umbrellas and a ladder with a diving platform. 

We spent an afternoon lounging along the pier with tropical cocktails and lunch. Try the frozen coconut mojito and spicy margarita. After working on our tan, we swam around and snorkeled in the aquamarine waters, spotting stingrays, conch and starfish. At night, we returned for their Full Moon Party where we danced in the sand and howled at the full moon as live DJs spun House and Reggae music.

Feed or High Five a Tarpon.  Tarpon are giant ”bone fish” that grow up to several feet in length. On the west side of the caye is a small boardwalk where they swim around waiting to be fed. For $5 BZD, buy some bait, hold it above the water and wait for one of the giant fish to quickly jump out and snatch it from your hand. Alternatively, hold your hand just above the water and wait for one of the tarpon to “high five” your hand. It’s a common stop on snorkel tours. 

Spot Stingrays & Seahorses at Stingray Beach.  A small beach at the Iguana Reef Inn with palm shaded lounges, a thatched bar and habitat for stingrays and seahorses. We stopped in for rum cocktails and took our pick of the many lounges set up along shore before relaxing in the overwater swings and hammocks. While here, we spotted yellow and brown seahorses slinking alongside the pier and giant stingrays fluttering through the shallows near shore. It’s a common stop on most snorkel tours. 

Belizean Cuisine 

Belizean cuisine on Caye Caulker is influenced Caribbean and West Indies flavors. Restaurants barbecue the day’s fresh catch on street side grills, beach shacks serve savory fried foods, dishes are flavored with jerk seasonings, coconut, curry and spicy hot sauces. Dishes to try are Jerk and coconut shrimp, whole fried and grilled red snapper, grilled Caribbean lobster, conch fritters, conch and shrimp ceviche, coconut rice and curried seafood.

• Fry Jacks.  Deep-fried pieces of dough typically stuffed with refried beans served at breakfast. 

• Pupusas.  A corn masa arepa stuffed with various fillings like black bean and cheese, topped with a pickled cabbage and carrot slaw. 

• Johnny Cakes.  Sweet coconut and vanilla biscuits. 

• Marie Sharps.  The national hot sauce made with habanero and carrot. It’s available everywhere.

Places to Eat & Drink 

For a tiny island, there is no shortage of places to eat and drink! We visited several spots during our week on the Caye for local cuisine and island bites. 

Ice n’ Beans.  A coffee shop and cafe with breakfast sandwiches, fresh baked banana bread, rum balls and mini donuts. We quickly became regulars here during our week on the Caye, sitting at the yellow picnic tables under the palm trees with seaside views of the Caribbean. 

Errolyn's House Of Fryjacks.  A popular breakfast spot to try Belizean Fryjacks. Order any combination stuffed with refried beans, eggs, bacon, chicken, ham and cheese. Don’t forget to top it with house made green salsa! 

Pelican Sunset Bar.  The spot to watch the sunset, enjoy rum cocktails and feast on Caribbean seafood!We saw the sun set as leopard rays fluttered through the water, sipped on happy hour rum punches and ordered the island’s best conch fritters, whole fried red snapper and grilled lobster. Arrive an hour before the sunset to claim a table or sit along the dock with your feet dangling in the water. 

Big Titty Rum Bar.   A rum bar with a variety of house made and infused rums. With friends, we ordered a spread of daiquiris from classic, habanero, tamarind and grapefruit coconut. We came back near nightly for a final drink or shot of rum.

Las Palapas.  A higher end restaurant with surf and turf dishes and a full wine menu. It has a beachy and romantic vibe with a sand floor, wooden furniture and warmly lit chandeliers all under a thatched roof. We ordered the curry seafood and snapper filet. We came here for our friend’s engagement dinner and were not disappointed by quality of the food nor the service. 

Reina's.  We were lured in on our first night in town by a street side barbecue with fresh lobsters, red snapper and shrimp sizzling on its grates. We sat on rickety wooden furniture inside the beach style shack with sand below our feet while sipping on a Belikin as our food grilled. The restaurant is first come first serve but is worth the wait. Arrive just after opening to get first pick of the day’s fresh catch.

Roy’s Blue Water Grill.  One of the many seafood bar and grills on the Caye. We came here for dinner in hopes of tasting their well reviewed lion fish. Though they were sold out, we enjoyed fried cod fritters, snapper filets and coconut curry veggies.  

Hebbie Jeebies.  A street side bar with a menu of tropical rum cocktails like the rum runner, painkiller, mojito, piña colada or island favorite, Lizard Juice, made with Caribbean rum, pine apple juice and neon green Curaçao. Cocktails are served frozen or on the rocks. For an extra cost, they can be served in a coconut or pineapple! 

Nicco’s Ice Cream.  An Ice cream parlor with Belizean flavors like coconut, chocolate, tequila rose and sugar corn. The layer of which, literally tasted like sweet corn. 

Belize Chocolate Company.  A chocolate shop with Belizean chocolates including artisan truffles, brownies, cookies, chocolate bars, hot chocolate and cocoa nib tea.

Caye Caulker Bakery.  A bakery famed across the Caye for their cinnamon rolls. We stopped in on our last day for two of the spiraled and glazed cinnamon pastries. 

Belizean Rums & Beers 

Belizean rums and beers are popular across the country and often very affordable compared to anything imported. The most popular Belizean rum is Caribbean Rum. It’s available in clear, amber and coconut flavored varieties, all perfect for mixing in cocktails. The two most popular Belizean beers are Belikin and Land Shark. 

Belikin.  Belize’s national beer, baring the country’s most famed Mayan ruin, Caracol, embossed on its bottle. Its flavor is light but very bready. 

Land Shark.  A very easy drinking light beer with a slightly citric flavor. 

Caribbean Fusion Brewing Company.  The islands only brewery with brews influenced by the flavors of the island. We visited their second floor taproom and ordered a flight:

• Tropical Seltzer.  The house spiked seltzer made in a variety of tropical flavors like lime, fruit punch and pineapple. 

• Pale Ale. A classic beer with a rye forward flavor.

• Belgian Ale 1.  An ale with a slightly sour flavor close in flavor to a hefeweizen.  

• Belgian Ale 2.  An ale with a darker color and molasses flavor. 

• IPA.  An IPA with a very lightly hopped flavor and sweet finish. 

• Stout. A coconut flavored stout made with coconut water.

Where to Stay

Rik's Getaway Cabin.  We stayed at the most perfectly appointed tiny house on the south side of Caye Caulker in a very local area of the island. Perched on stilts, the tiny house included a full kitchen, queen sized bed, spacious bathroom with washer & dryer, board games, a tv and an outdoor deck with a ledge for dining. Book on Airbnb.

The Treetops Hotel. A boutique hotel with spacious apartment style rooms equipped with full kitchens. The property has its own private beach, a rooftop patio, outdoor pool and free bike rentals. We visited our friends staying here to cook together, lounge on the beach and sip on rooftop cocktails. 

Getting Here 

The only ways to reach Caye Caulker is by ferry or airplane. Ferries and flights operate between Caye Caulker, San Pedro, Belize City and Chetumal, Mexico. 

San Pedro Belize Express.‍ ‍Ferries depart daily a frequent times between 6am and 5pm. We booked tickets online arriving in Caye Caulker from Chetumal, Mexico with a stop in San Pedro for customs. We departed from Caye Caulker, arriving in Belize City where the ferry operator shuttled us to the international airport.

Pro Tip.  Don’t worry about missing your scheduled ferry time. As long as tickets remain unused, they’re valid for up to three months at any time slot. 

Maya Island Air & Tropic Air.  The two main airlines with a fleet of puddle jumpers operating flights between Belize City, Caye Caulker, San Pedro and The Blue Hole. Flights are often fast and scenic but expensive. 

Getting Around 

There are very few cars on the island. Golf carts and bikes are the main form of transportation on the island, however it’s also easily walkable. 

On Foot. It takes 30 minutes on foot to travel between the caye’s furthest points, the airport and “The Split.” Wear flip flops or sandals to walk through large puddles and pools of water after rain. 

By Bike.  Bikes are an easy way to get around the island. Most hotels offer free bike though there are some rentals in town for around $10 USD per day. 

By Taxi (Golf Cart).  It takes 10 minutes by golf cart to travel between the island’s furthest points, the airport and “The Split.” Taxis only cost a few USD and are commonly available. 

Location Specifics 

Currency. The Belizean Dollar and US Dollar are used interchangeably across the island. At the time, the exchange rate was 1 USD to 2 BLZ, making conversions and transactions easy. 

Cash vs Card.  About half of the island is cash only, especially at smaller restaurants, bars and cafes. 

Language.  English is the most commonly spoken language. Spanish and Creole are frequently spoken between locals. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption due to risk of contamination. Only drink filtered or bottled water. 

Happy Hours.  Most bars have happy house from 4-7pm, perfect timing after retuning from a tour.

Dinner Hours.  Most restaurants and kitchens close between 9-10pm nightly. 

Toilets.  Like most places in Central American, the plumbing is not the greatest. Used toilet paper is not flushed but put in a bin next to the toilet. 

Reef Safe Sunblock.  Only use reef safe sunblock on the island or in the water to avoid harming the corals and marine life. 

Safety.  Caye Caulker is extremely safe! The locals are some of the friendliest and most down to earth people we have ever met. 

Drugs.  Locals commonly offer and sell drugs on the streets. They’re not pushy about it. Simply tell them no thank you if not interested. 

Elsewhere in Belize 

From snorkeling the Belize Barrier Reef to exploring ancient Maya cities hidden beneath the jungle canopy, discover another side of Belize beyond island life.

Maya Ruins Travel Guide: Jungles, Temples & Ancient Cities. Journey through ancient Maya cities, temples and archaeological wonders across Belize and Guatemala while exploring dramatic jungle landscapes.

For Next Time… 

This was our second trip to Belsize and we’re already dreaming of returning to this beautiful country to experience more it its culture, nature and history! When we return, we plan to visit some of the coastal cities and Mayan ruins. 

Hopkins.  A seaside village home to the Garifuna, the indigenous and Afro-Caribbean people of Belize with a rich culture. 

Placencia Peninsula.  A fishing village and beach town with white sand beaches.

Altun Ha.  A Mayan acropolis with pyramids, temples, ball courts and platforms on the mainland north of Belize City. 

Lamanai.  the ruins of a Mayan temple only accessible by boating deep into the jungle.

Antigua Guatemala Travel Guide: Acatenango, Colonial Charm & Local Cuisine

Antigua, Guatemala

Antigua is a picturesque and historic city with colonial era streets, a lively cultural scene and views of imposing volcanos. The city’s charm invites travelers to admire its Spanish colonial architecture and explore the remains of crumbling ruins. The bustling food scene and cafe culture make Antigua a wonderful place to taste traditional Guatemalan dishes and coffee. Vendors at artisan markets sell handmade crafts, colorful textiles and vibrant ceramics. Backpackers stay at local hostels and study at Spanish language schools. Overnight hikes lead to summit of nearby volcanos including the explosive, Volcán de Fuego. 

A Colonial Gem

Dating back nearly 500 years, Antigua is the Spanish colonial gem of Guatemala. Landmark sights, museums, ornate cathedrals and crumbling ruins built of stone, brick and plaster line Antigua’s grid of cobble stone streets. Warmly painted facades ranging in tones of red, ochre, yellow and cream alternate from building to building. Carved wooden doors often lead to lush shaded courtyards occupied by restaurants and cafes. Popular terraces boast views overlooking the clay tiled roofs, cathedral spires and imposing volcanos. 

Colonial Sights 

Santa Catalina Arch.  A famous yellow arch and clock tower stretching over the cobblestone street and framing Volcan de Agua. Come just after sunrise for the best view without groups of people.

Catedral de San José.  A cathedral built into the ruins of Catedral de Santiago. Its grand white facade with intricate plaster work, niches containing statues and large wooden doors spans the eastern width of Parque Central. 

Parque Central.  A park and plaza at the center of Antigua with benches, trees, gardens and a mermaid fountain with water spraying from her breasts. Locals come to relax with their families, vendors sell ice cream cones, guides offer walking tours and shoeshiners polish boots. It’s surrounded by restaurants, cafes, shops and colonial landmarks. 

La Iglesia de Merced.  A baroque style church with a yellow facade decorated in finely detailed white stucco ornamentation of grape vines and bunches. La Merced remains one of the few undamaged churches to survived from the centuries of earthquakes.

Iglesia del Carmen.  The crumbling ruins of a church held together by supports and scaffolding. It’s in accessible but can be admired from out front of it’s baroque facade. 

Tanque la Union.  A yellow arched pavilion and former colonial laundry well turned into a public fountain and park.

Cerro de la Cruz.  A hilltop hike to a viewpoint overlooking Antigua, the volcanos, mountains and valley. It’s popular at sunset or the early morning. The hike takes 10-15 minutes from the entrance guarded by police.

Crumbling Ruins 

Antigua is an architectural and archeological play ground with ruins of colonial buildings & churches destroyed during centuries of earthquakes. 

Catedral de Santiago.  The ruins of a massive cathedral characterized by its collapsed domed ceiling revealing the sky above. Many arches of the domed ceiling remain, held up by towering brick and stone columns, some of which are still embellished in delicate plaster moldings and flourishes.  

Iglesia La Recolección.  Destroyed beyond repair, a lone arch and set of stairs lead to this former church where only the walls remain standing. Within its sanctuary are toppled columns, massive pieces of brick masonry and plaster debris. The ruins can be explored and even climbed on, making for a photogenic picture. The remaining grounds encompass two courtyards with the ruins of a convent. 

Convento de San Capuchinas.  A former convent turned into an art museum. The grounds contain an interior courtyard, the ruins of a church, a butterfly garden and a circular building of nun’s cells complete with creepy nun mannequins. Exhibits display a collection religious artwork, pre-colonial artifacts, broken statues and stone masonry.

Convento Santa Clara.  The ruins of a church and convent with an ornate stone facade and crumbling cloisters surrounding a lush garden courtyard. The beautiful setting doubles as an event space for dreamy weddings.  

Iglesia de San Francisco.  A restored church with a partially collapsed facade and grounds with the crumbing ruins of a former monastery used by the friars. With in the grounds are lush gardens home to nesting green parrots and walkways leading to a second floor with views of the volcanos.

Iglesia San Jerónimo.  The ruins of a former church. All that remains is a grassy courtyard with a restored fountain and some accessible cloisters.  

Visit the Museums 

Museo de Arte Colonial.  A colonial art museum with galleries of religious paintings and artifacts. The museum is one of the few buildings not destroyed during the 1773 earthquake and featured on the 100 Quetzal bill.

Museo Nacional de Arte De Guatemala (MUNAG).  A Guatemalan art museum adjacent to the Parque Central. It includes paintings of the country’s landscapes, Mayan people, Guatemala’s declaration of independence, iron cannons, religious artwork and pre-Colombian artifacts.

Shop the Artisan & Local Markets

Parque la Merced.  Located outside of La Iglesia de Merced, this park is brimming with food and craft vendors. It’s one of the best places in the city to find every kind of Guatemalan street food or sweet imaginable. A fountain with fish reliefs relocated from Iglesia de San Francisco is located here.

Mercado Central.  A large market with a maze of aisles and booths under a patchwork tin roof. Locals come here for every day necessitates including produce, meats, flowers, shoes, clothes, electronics, appliances, toys, etc. There are restaurant stalls in a food court style pavilion. We brought home fresh purple corn tortillas from here. 

Mercado de Artesanias.  A beautiful handicrafts market with vendors selling colorful textiles, painted ceramics, wooden objects, jade jewelry and souvenirs. Come here to haggle and buy something locally made. We bought mugs, a tortilla blanket and an ornament. 

Mercado de Artesanias El Carmen.  A handicrafts market with aisles of vendors selling locally made items and souvenirs. It’s located next to the ruins of Iglesia El Carmen.

Volcanic Landscapes 

Antigua is flanked by dormant and actives volcanos providing a breathtaking landscape that creates a postcard style backdrop to the city’s colonial era streets. 

Volcán de Fuego.  Known as “The Volcano of Fire,” Fuego has been continuously erupting since 2002 with bursts of lava and clouds of ash spewing from its summit every 15 to 30 minutes. Views of its eruptions can be regularly seen from Antigua both day and night.

Volcán Acatenango.  The twin volcano to Fuego and tallest of the 3 surrounding Antigua. Many backpackers hike and camp overnight on its slopes to witness Fuego’s eruptions up close. 

Volcán de Agua.  A dormant cone shaped volcano to the south of Antigua. The best views of its summit are during the early morning before clouds settle in. 

Overnight on Acatenango

Volcán de Acatenango should be on every backpacker’s wish list! We joined a guided group to hike it’s slopes, camp overnight, witness unclose eruptions of Volcán de Fuego and watch a beautiful sunrise. It was one of the most physically exhausting things we’ve done but equally rewarding.

Hike to Basecamp 

The hike to basecamp started at Aldea la Soledad, a small village an hour outside Antigua. It marks the trail head of La Ruta de Acatenango. It brought us through different terrains and micro climates. We began our assent on a trail through farmland and steep dirt stairs. Climbing in altitude, we reached the cloud forest, a wooded area with tall moss covered trees, ferns, slippery trails and constant fog. The fog began to lift the further we hiked, completely clearing by the time we reached the pine forest. This forested area is covered pine trees, tall grasses and colorful wildflowers. The hike took 5 hours to reach basecamp.

Acatenango Basecamp

Basecamp was our home for the night and starting point for our hike to the crest of Fuego and the summit of Acatenango. We “slept” in a small A frame style shack, cuddled up to keep warm. The guides kept a small fire lit for warmth and to prepare camp meals. 

The Volcano of Fire

The campsite offered direct views of Volcán de Fuego and its frequent eruptions. During the day, the volcano billowed grey clouds of ash into the blue sky. At night, the red glow of lava rocketed through the air followed by a deep boom and crackling as it spilled down its slopes. Shockwaves from larger eruptions could even be felt in our chests! 

Hike To the Crest of Fuego 

The hike to the barren and black crest of Fuego began from basecamp, passing through pine forest to the saddle between both volcanos. Beyond that point, the ascent grew steep and unstable, with loose gravel and exposed roots. Clouds began to settle as the sun set, blocking views of the summit. After waiting in cold, wet and windy conditions without a clearing, we retuned to basecamp, stopping for brief rests as to glimpse ash, lava and embers pierce the clouds. 

Summit Sunrise

The hike to the summit of Acatenango began a 4am. The sun rose quickly afterwards, illuminating the cloud dappled sky and volcanic landscape in brilliant colors of purple, red and orange. Soon after, we began our descent and return to Antigua. 

Things to Keep in Mind

Hire A Guide.  Guides are not required to hike Acatenango but are helpful when navigating the route. We joined a guided group through a local operator on Viator.

Porters.  There are options to hire a porter to carry your equipment and gear. 

Vendors.  There are vendors along the trail before the pine forest selling snacks and beverages. 

Cash.  Bring plenty of cash for the additional hikes, snacks, beverages and tips 

Gear to Pack.  Bring your own gear or rent equipment from your guide.

• A 30 to 40 liter backpack 

• Hiking shoes/boots

• Warm clothes and layers (thermals, sweaters, scarves, gloves, hats, puffer, waterproof outer later)

• 2-3 liters of water

• Trail snacks 

• Sleeping bag and pillow

• Headlamp or flash light 

• Sunblock 

• Toilet paper 

• Hand sanitizer 

• Sunglasses

• A power bank 

Volcanic Farmland 

Antigua’s fertile volcanic valleys make it ideal for growing a range of crops including coffee, cacao and macadamia nut. We visited, Valhalla Farm, A sustainable and organic macadamia nut farm with free tours, tastings, a restaurant and spa. We came here for a full body macadamia nut oil massage after our overnight hike to Volcán de Fuego. It was so relaxing and therapeutic! The farm tour included a walk around the grounds to see the macadamia nut trees, learn how they’re harvested and processed. Afterwards, we sampled macadamia nut products like roasted nuts, chocolates, baked goods and oils. 

Cafe Culture

Antigua has a bustling cafe culture with many small cafes, coffee shops and breakfast spots brewing Guatemalan grown and roasted coffee beans. 

Bakery San Martin.  A cafe and bakery with fresh breads, cookies, and carafes of French pressed Guatemalan coffee. Come for the “Desayuno Antigueno,” which includes scrambled eggs with onion and tomato, breads, fried sweet plantains, refried beans and tortilla with cheese. 

El Gran Cafe.  A small coffee shop for Guatemalan coffee and light pastries. We brought home two bags of whole beans. 

12 Onzas.  A cafe for Guatemalan pour over coffee, light pastries and classic breakfast dishes. 

Places to Eat

We quickly learned that Antigua has a thriving food scene with restaurants serving traditional and contemporary Guatemalan dishes, authentic street food and vegan or vegetarian options. Most restaurants in Antigua have a garden courtyard, rooftop or terrace and interior dining room. 

Los Tres Tiempos.  A colorfully decorated restaurant with a lush outdoor terrace and menu including traditional brunch dishes. Try the sweet corn pancakes covered in a creamed corn sauce, the chilaquiles with white & blue corn chips and red & green sauce or the fruit platter with pineapple, papaya and water melon. 

27 Adentro.  A restaurant with a modern take on Guatemalan and Latin dishes. It has a garden courtyard and rooftop with views of Volcán de Fuego. We saw a large eruption with lava from here. There are many vegetation options including pepián, sopa de maíz, tostone cups and sangria. 

La Fonda Calle Real.  Around lunch time, the smell of pan fired masa wafting from the store front comal invites passersby in. The romantic interior has an open air courtyard with a canopy of flowering vines. The menu consists of traditional Guatemalan dishes. We tried the vegetarian pepián, chile relleno and plantains con mole. 

Saberico.  A vegetarian friendly garden restaurant with a sprawling outdoor patio and menu of contemporary Guatemalan dishes. We ordered the beet & cabbage tostadas, chile relleno and kombucha cocktails.

Antojito Salvadoreño.  An unofficial restaurant specializing in pupusas. Call ahead to order and wait outside of the Condominio Arcadas for pick up. We ordered cheese and bean pupusas with a canoa de platano. 

Frida’s.  A Mexican style restaurant themed after Frida Kahlo with portraits of the artist pictured throughout. The menu specializes in tacos and margaritas. We tried the veggie tacos, crispy broccoli in poblano mole and seitan al pastor tacos with pineapple. For drinks, the spicy mezcal margarita and hibiscus mezcal margarita. 

El Adobe.  The eye-catching entry with a display of colorfully painted Guatemalan wooden masks invites passersby in for a look at the menu. The restaurant serves traditional Guatemalan and Mayan inspired dishes. We ordered the blue corn tortillas with cheese and salsa, fried black beans and a whole fried fish called Mojarra. 

Places to Drink

Together with a brewery, speakeasy, dive and rooftop bar, there is no shortage of places to find a drink in Antigua. 

Antigua Brewing Company.  A brewery with local beers and city views from their terrace. We sampled a flight of beers. Two favorites are the Fuego IPA, a very hoppy brew, and the Canchona Blonde Ale, a refreshing and slightly nutty ale.

Ulew.  A dimly lit speakeasy with a stone and brick interior located behind a phone booth in the Antigua Brewing Company. Mixologists make drinks based on your flavor preference. We ordered spicy but balanced tiki style drinks that came out in a volcano and wave mug.

Cafe No Se.  A dive bar for beer and mezcal. The menu is handwritten on cardboard, candles dripping in wax light the interior and the walls are covered in signatures and stickers. We drank and played chess at a table in the corner. 

Adra Hostel.  Come to their energetic courtyard and rooftop for local beers, cocktails and live DJ. 

Guatemalan Cuisine

There are so many authentic dishes to try when visiting Antigua. Some of our favorites include traditional ingredients like corn masa and plantain.  

• Pupusas.  A griddle fried masa patty filled with beans and cheese or meat. 

• Chile Relleno.  A stuffed poblano pepper that’s been breaded and deep fried. It common to be stuffed with cheese or rice, beans and vegetables.  

• Pepián.  A spiced stew made with a base or green or red tomatoes. I can be vegetable or meat based. 

• Sopa de Maíz.  A creamy corn soup. 

• Tostones.  Twice fried and smashed green plantains, often served with a salsa. 

• Purple Corn Masa.  Purple corn used to make any corn based dish like tortillas or pupusas. 

• Platano con Mole.  A sweet plantain that’s been fried and covered in a savory sweet mole sauce. 

• Canoa de Platano.  A whole sweet plantain that’s been deep fried, cut open like a canoe and filled with a sweet cream sauce. 

• Mojarra.  A popular Central American fish. It’s commonly served whole fried with lime. 

• Gallo.  A lager and the beer of choice across Guatemala, recognizable by it label picturing a rooster. 

• Nispero.  Popular at fruit stands and in dishes at restaurants. Small orange fruits with a citrus peachy flavor, a thin skin and pit. Try them fresh, jammed, canned or in a sauce. 

Where to Stay 

Antigua is a large backpacker destination with apartment rentals and hostels throughout the city. We stayed in a centrally located Airbnb at the El Solar Apartments. The apartment was a renovated ruin with exposed brick, stone walls, wooden beams and artwork of the city. 

Getting Around 

Guatemala City to Antigua.  Book a transfer between Guatemala City and Antigua with a reputable local agency like Due South Travels. They safely shuttled us between the airport and our stay in Antigua during late night hours.  

On Foot.  Antigua is a very walkable city. Exploring it on foot is the best way to see the colonial sights, crumbing ruins and volcanic views. 

By Taxi.  Yellow cabs and Ubers are readily in Antigua. They’re an affordable way of reaching nearby locations. Always confirm the price and destination before getting into the taxi. 

Location Specifics

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not drinkable. Only drink bottled or filtered water.

Cash vs Card. Many businesses are cash only. Carry USD to exchange or the local Quetzal.

Safety.  We found the Antigua to be very safe. The locals tend to be welcoming and friendly. 

Language.  Spanish is widely spoken, many people speak English and some speak Mayan.

UV Protection.  Wear sunblock. The higher altitude makes the sun’s UV stronger.

Elsewhere in Guatemala 

From volcanic lakes to ancient Maya cities, continue exploring Guatemala's diverse landscapes and cultural heritage.

Lake Atitlán Travel Guide: Villages, Volcanoes & Mayan Culture. Navigate between Lake Atitlán's lakeside villages where volcanic landscapes and living Mayan culture shape one of Guatemala's most remarkable destinations.

Maya Ruins Travel Guide: Jungles, Temples & Ancient Cities.‍ ‍Journey through ancient Maya cities, temples and archaeological wonders across Belize and Guatemala while exploring dramatic jungle landscapes.

For Next Time… 

• Flores, Guatemala.  A picturesque island city on Lago Petén Itzá known for it’s colorful architecture and proximity to Mayan ruins.

• Monterrico.  A beach town along Guatemala’s Pacific Coast known for its black sand beaches and annual sea turtle migrations.

• El Paredón.  A sleepy surf town along Guatemala’s Pacific Coast with black sand beaches and great year round surf conditions. 

Lake Atitlán Travel Guide: Villages, Volcanoes & Mayan Culture

Lake Atitlán, Guatemala

Lake Atitlan is a fresh water lake in a volcanic crater of Guatemala’s lush and rugged highlands. Its shores are surrounded by conical volcanos, nature preserves, coffee farms and small pueblos home to Mayan cultures, indigenous peoples and backpackers. 

San Juan de la Laguna 

San Juan de la Laguna is a pueblo with an authentic and vibrant local culture known for its handicrafts and artistic traditions preserved by indigenous women. Buildings throughout town are painted with colorful murals depicting the women and their artistry. The main streets are decorated in canopies of umbrellas, banderas and string lights. Cafes, bakeries, textile shops, art galleries and roof top restaurants with views of Lake Atitlán are common places to taste the local culture.

Los Calles de las Sombrillas.  A series of painted streets throughout the pueblo with a canopy of colorful umbrellas, banderas and string lights hanging overhead. The most vibrant street leads from the ferry dock into town, passing craft and souvenir stores, cafes serving Guatemalan coffee, galleries selling colorful paintings and walls painted with vibrant murals depicting the local culture. 

Market Municipal.  A small produce market along La Calle de las Sombrillas with vendors selling fresh vegetables, produce, dried peppers, eggs, herbs and lake fish. We bought groceries for the week to cook Guatemalan meals in our hotel’s traditional kitchen. 

SOL 4.  The main road that passes through San Juan. After the last ferries leave for the day, this road becomes the epicenter of activity for locals. Whole families gather for dinner as street food vendors fill the air with aromas of grilled meats, fresh made tortillas and burning charcoal. Brightly illuminated chicken buses roar past, announcing their presence with the honk of a train horn.

Iglesia Católica San Juan La Laguna.  A historic but simple stone church in the center of town with dual bells. The plaza in front of it is a popular spot for street food vendors selling pollo con papas (chicken with fries), choco-fruitas (chocolate covered fruits), pan dulces (sweet breads) and micheladas. 

Traditions & Crafts

Indigenous women keep Mayan traditions and crafts alive. Throughout the pueblo, women are seen wearing colorful handwoven textiles, often seen making tortillas on streets and weaving inside shops and collectives.

Licor Marron Chocolate.  A Guatemalan chocolatier with traditional chocolate making classes, tastings and history lessons about cacaos importance to the ancient Mayans. During an hour long class, we began by separating hundreds of dried cacao beans by size to roast in a traditional clay comal (frying pan). An intoxicating chocolate aroma wafted from the beans as they popped and cracked under the heat. Once fully roasted, we separated the husks by hand and pulverized the beans on a traditional grinding stone. We tasted tea made from the husks and ancestral hot chocolate made from the cacao grounds mixed with molasses sugar, cinnamon and cardamom. We bought a few hand pressed bars and large pellet on ancestral chocolate used to make our own hot chocolate at home.

Casa Flor Ixcaco Weaving Cooperative.  A female owned weaving cooperative with demonstrations of the textile making process. During the demo, a weaver began by separating seeds from raw cotton, beat the cotton fibers to soften them, spun them into yarn and dyed them in a turmeric bath. Using a back strap loom, she continued weaving a piece that was weeks in the process. The cooperative has a store with textiles made by the women, including clothes, bags, home decor and blankets. Each piece has a tag with a photo and name of the woman who made it, the type of cotton it’s made from, the dyes that were used and how long the item took to make.

Mundo de Abejas Mayas.  A bee farm and honey producer with an interactive garden home to hives of various species of stingless bees. We visited and tasted over a dozen types of pure and infused honeys made from local ingredients. We bought a jar of crystallized honey spread to smear on toast and sweeten herbal tea. Their shop sells all types of bee products including candles, honeys, pollen, raw honey combs, royal jelly, bee venom, honey wine and soaps. Despite its name, the bee farm has nothing to do with Mayan culture. It’s focused on the sustainable harvesting of honey and preservations of bees endemic to Guatemala.

Asociación Q’omaneel.  A traditional medicinal garden commonly grown by Guatemalan women at home and used to make teas, soaps and oils to treat various ailments from stomach aches, joint pain, burns, stress, etc. We bought a tea that’s supposed to help with sleeping made from dried stems, leaves and flowers. We steeped it nightly and mixed it with our crystallized honey from Mundo de Abejas Mayas. 

Hiking & Lookouts 

Cerro Cristalino (Nariz del Rostro Maya).  A mountain peak popular for its sunrise hike overlooking Lake Atitlán, the surrounding volcanos and pueblos. Starting at 4am, we hiked with a local guide from the trail head to the summit. We passed through farmland with avocado trees, coffee plants, black beans and corn stalks, reaching the lookout 30 minutes later. Surprised to be the first to arrive, we took front row seats to watch the sunrise! 

The San Pedro, Tolimán and Atitlán Volcanos create a silhouette set against the dark blue and purple star covered sky. Below, twinkling lights from the pueblos dot the lake. Further in the distance the volcanic chain continues with Agua, Acatanango and Fuego. Every several minutes, we saw the red glow of lava erupting from Fuego and giant plumes of ash rising above it. First light appears with dim reds, turning to oranges, pinks and yellows as the sun rose above the volcanic landscape and reflected in calm the lake. As the sun rose, we were served coffee in clay mugs and conchas for breakfast. 

The tour included a round trip transfer from our hotel in San Juan to the trail head. We booked with Tours with Vick on Viator. 

Good to Know.  From San Juan, the mountain crest looks like the profile of a face looking upwards. It’s named after a beloved Mayan woman and local legend. Tourists commonly call the mountain, “The Indian’s Nose.” This is considered disrespectful to locals and best avoided. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Cafe Las Marias.  A tiny coffee roaster with a cafe on its second floor serving and bold brews of Guatemalan coffee prepared in various styles including drip, aeropress and Turkish. The cafe is semi-hidden in an alley. Once finding it, ring a bell to be let in. The intimate cafe only has two tables and boasts views of Cerro Cristalino. They offer full breakfasts and do occasional coffee roasting demonstrations but there’s no set schedule.

Jaque.  A second floor restaurant above a gallery with an outdoor patio overlooking Lake Atitlán and the San Pedro Volcano. The menu features a range of pizzas, seafood and vegetarian dishes. We ordered a Mojarra Frita (whole fried fish) and garlic shrimp with fresh made tortillas and two bottles of the local beer, Gallo.

Restaurante MayAchik’.  An eco hotel and restaurant on the outskirts of town with homemade vegetarian and vegan dishes. We ordered the Tacos de la Casa made with hibiscus flowers and Chapín, a local soup made from chile peppers, tomato and cilantro. Both were served with locally grown avocado and handmade tortillas. For dessert, we shared a plate of fried plantains covered in a spicy and chocolaty mole with a garnish of toasted sesame seeds.

Santa Catarina Palapó

A small pueblo known locally for its traditional handicrafts and patterned buildings painted in shades of blue. It’s lesser visited and nearly untouched by tourism allowing it to maintain a strong sense of authenticity. We followed a combination of cultural routes leading through town past various sights including viewpoints, museums and artisan shops. Similar to San Juan, many of the shops are women owned cooperatives used to keep the local traditions alive and to allow them to earn an independent livelihood. 

Proyecto Pintando Santa Catarina Palapó.  A small but fascinating cultural center dedicated to the town’s efforts of painting all of its buildings in a range of blue hues and patterns reflective of the local Mayan people. Blue represents the primary color of the local textiles and the symbols represent nature including birds, butterflies, fish, corn, the volcanos and lake. We bought a clay Christmas ornament painted to look like a local house. 

Casa Museo.  A simple museum dedicated to the town’s cultural history and way of life with four small exhibits. One discusses the history, traditions and legends of the communities in Santa Catarina. The second is a replica ancestral home adorned with artifacts, furnishing and personal belongings. The third is a mock Temascal, a traditional Mayan sauna and bath. The fourth is a Mayan betting game named Patolli. Filed down beans are used as dice and rolled to move a token twenty-some places forward before the other player. The museum has a rooftop restaurant and cafe with views of the town’s center, built up hillside and lake flanked by volcanos.

Iglesia Santa Catarina Palapó.  A small windowless church in the center of the pueblo with a white painted facade, wooden doors, clay tiled roof and motif of two lions holding up a blue circle. 

Centro Cultural Santa Catarina Palapó.  A small museum dedicated to the textiles of the community. It’s explains the history, colors and meaning behind the traditional textiles worn by the locals. Red colored textiles were the most traditional. Shades of blue later became popular. Today, it’s a mix of those colors and many others that represent the individual weavers own style. There is a textile shop on the second floor with women weaving on back strap looms.

Fábrica de Velas y Cerería Sajvin.  A traditional candle maker with various styles and colors of handmade candles. The shop owner explained the process of how the candles are dipped, colored and molded using bees wax and paraffin wax. We bought strings of pink and blue candles for 15Q each. 

San Pedro de Atitlán

San Pedro a larger pueblo at the base of the San Pedro Volcano. It’s locally known as backpacker destination and for its nightly party scene. The roads parallel to the lake are busting with expats, travelers, hostels, restaurants, cafes and bars making it a popular place to visit and stay. Further into the pueblo, we discovered the local side of town. We walked along the quiet winding streets listening to locals speaking Mayan and watched as they mixed mass to make tortillas. The pueblo is more Catholic than many of the others we visited. Simple murals of bible verses are contrasted by colorful ones depicting Mayan and indigenous culture. 

Tzunun' Ya'.  A museum dedicated to the history and people of San Pedro as well as Lake Atitlán’s geological formation and volcanic past. One of the most interesting parts of the exhibit was a black and white film from 1941 of life in the pueblo. Several aspects remained the same including women wearing traditional clothes and carrying objects on their heads as well as men fishing from small wooden boats and carrying heaps of firewood on their backs. 

San Pedro Playa Pública.  A public beach looking over the lake, skyline and volcano. It’s a simple beach popular with locals and backpackers. We came here to layout, listen to the waves and picnic. 

La Ventana del Lago.  An elevated lake view restaurant with seafood dishes and Guatemalan cuisine. It’s a little out of place for a backpacker’s town which inadvertently made it a quiet spot for a date night. We dined by candle light, ordering the Mojarra Frita (whole fried fish) and Caldo de Marriscos (seafood soup).

Backpacker Bars

• Sublime.  A large bar overlooking the lake with nightly events, daily happy hours, well made cocktails, local beers and simple but tasty dishes like vegetarian nachos. We ordered the watermelon mojito and pineapple sunrise. 

• 420 Reggae Bar.  A local bar with a backpackers vibe along the main road displaying a well curated wall of spirits used to make classic cocktails all for 25Q. 

• Shanti Shanti.  A restaurant and bar overlooking the lake. We stopped in for spiked fruit smoothies made with pineapple, muskmelon, watermelon, run and vodka.

San Pedro Volcano 

A 3,000 meter high conical shaped volcano covered in farmland and lush forest on the shores of Lake Atitlán beyond the pueblo of San Pedro. 

Hiking the Volcano 

A trail leads from the welcome center through farmland with crops of coffee, avocado, corn and squash. As we hiked up, farmers harvested firewood, carrying large bundles down on their backs. Beyond the farmland, the trail passed through forest, providing shade most of the route up. The path is well maintained, paved in occasional sections with cement stairs, wooden log steps and stacked rubber tires. The trail climbs steadily uphill with altitude markers every 100 meters and occasional points of interest along the way. 

Mirador Tz'unun Ya'.  A lookout over San Pedro La Laguna and Lake Atitlán at 2,173 meters. 

Area de Descanso.  A rest area and lookout with a tire swing overlooking the lake at about 2,300 meters. 

Arbol Anciano Quercus.  A fallen 400 year old tree at 2,600 meters.

Tronco de Arbol Aijlamam Gran Abuelo.  A sacred Mayan tree believed to be the reincarnation of a powerful Mayan wizard. It’s located around 2,750 meters.

Area de Acampar.  A campground with an graffitied wooden cabin and restroom at 2,867 meters. 

The Summit

After 2 hours 30 minutes of hiking, we reached the summit at an altitude of 3,000 meters. We walked the crater rim lined with moss covered trees to a rocky outcrop with views of the deep blue lake, its pueblos and the chain of volcanos. From above, boats looked like small dots as they crossed the lake leaving a rippled trail behind them. In the distance, Volcan de Fuego let out continual eruptions of smoke and ash high into the sky. We spent about an hour at the summit, eating our lunch and enjoying the views. 

Tips for Hiking the San Pedro Volcano

• Hire a Guide.  We hired our guide, Vic, from the Cerro Cristalino (Nariz del Rostro Maya) Sunrise Hike. He organized transportation, safely guided us to/from the summit, shared stories about Mayan legends and info about the local nature and landscape Book his tour here!

• Timing.  We began hiking at 9am and reached the summit at 11:30am. It took us under 2 hours to hike down.

• Safety.  Having read the warnings about armed bandits online, we were apprehensive about going on the hike. Beforehand, we read recent reviews, spoke to others that had safely completed the hike and confirmed the current safety situation with our Airbnb host and guide. We only carried enough cash for the hike. We left our wedding rings, all but one cell phone and one credit/debit card at our hotel. 

• Popularity.  The San Pedro hike is not as others in Guatemala. We met about a dozen hikers at the summit, some solo and others in pairs. Along the route down, we passed a few groups, one led by two armed police officers. 

San Marcos 

San Marcos is very small pueblo with bohemian vibes, winding pedestrian walkways, a peaceful nature reserve and the best views of Lake Atitlán and the volcanos.

The Hippie Highway.  The narrow street leading from the ferry dock into town is locally called the “Hippie Highway.” The street is appropriately named for all of the health food cafes, fruit and vegetable farm stands, tins of smoldering incense, shops with bohemian style clothes, vendors selling feather and wire jewelry, long and dreaded hair expats, stick and poke tattoo shops, wellness studios with crystals healers, spiritual massages and yoga classes. 

Cherri Tzankujil Nature Reserve.  A peaceful nature reserve with trails leading to Mayan ceremonial altars, bathing areas and lookouts over the lake, volcanos and town. We spent an entire afternoon here, surrounded by breathtaking nature, hiking the trails, sunbathing and picnicking along the rocky cliffs and swimming in the cool refreshing water. From one of the overlooks, we watched as adrenaline seekers jumped from The Trampoline, a 12 meter jump into the lake below. 

Circles Cafe & Bakery.  A bakery and cafe with Guatemalan coffee, sourdough breads, rustic pastries, sandwiches and pizzas.

Mi Vida Bar.  A two floor open air bar with views of the lake and volcanos, local beers and classic cocktails.

Panajachel

Panajachel, also called Pana, is the most developed and commercial pueblo on Lake Atitlán. It’s home to multitudes of Guatemalan craft shops, cafes and lake front restaurants. It’s a branching off point and hub to reach the other pueblos around the lake. 

Calle Santander.  Panajachel’s main tourist street lined with shops and vendors selling all types of handmade leather goods, colorful woven textiles, beaded jewelry and hammocks. The road follows the lake front and leads further into the pueblo. Along the lake, restaurants share similar menus with views of it and the volcanos. Further in town, cafes serve Guatemalan coffee. Overhead, twinkle lights and banderas crisscross the street as tuk tuks and moto bikes zip by.

Guatemalan Cuisine 

• Chapín.  A local soup made from chile guajillo, tomato and cilantro served with avocado and tortilla.

• Pepián.  A very traditional Guatemalan stew made from a mixture of peppers, veggies, spices, seeds and meats.

• Corn Tortillas.  A common base or accompaniment to nearly every dish in Guatemala. The tortillas are often made fresh from yellow, white and sometimes blue corn masa. 

• Pupusas.  A corn masa arepa stuffed with various fillings like black bean and cheese. 

• Desayuno Typical.  A typical breakfast dish comprised of eggs, tortilla, refried beans, sliced avocado, cheese and fried plantains. 

• Mojarra Frita.  A whole fried white fish with a spiky spine found in the lakes, rivers and shores of Central America.

• Caldo de Marriscos.  A clay pot or bowl of with a base of spicy seafood broth and a range of fish, crustaceans and shellfish.  

• Choco Fruita.  Chocolate dipped fruits like banana, coconut, papaya and watermelon sold by street vendors. They’re popular in San Juan. 

Guatemalan Drinks 

• Ancestral Hot Chocolate.  A traditional Mayan method of making hot chocolate from pure cacao mixed with cinnamon and raw sugar then mixed with creamy milk.

• Guatemalan Coffee.  Guatemala is one of the most prosperous coffee producing regions in the Americas. Locally grown and roasted beans are brewed into a full bodied, rich and chocolaty flavored cups of coffee and espresso at cafes and homes around the country. 

• Gallo.  Guatemala’s national beer, recognizable by its green bottle and the logo of a rooster on its label. It has a class light beer flavor and is sold everywhere across the country. 

• Michelada.  A cocktail made from beer, tomato juice, lime and spices with a salted rim. They’re commonly made with Gallo and sold at bar carts by street vendors.  

• Quetzalteca.  A local spirt sold in small bottles with flavors like tamarind, hibiscus strawberry, pineapple, watermelon and mulberry. It’s often prepared at bars either ice, lime juice and tajin. 

• Zacapa.  Guatemala’s national rum. With our Priority Pass, we visited Casa del Ron, the brand’s lounge at the La Aurora International Airport. For free, we ordered two cocktails, the Zacapa Sour and Zacapa Express as well as a glass of Zacapa XO neat, a blend of 10-25 year aged rum.

Where to Stay 

Hotel Tijax.  We stayed at boutique hotel in San Juan de La Laguna with balcony views overlooking Lake Atitlán and the tin clad roofs of the pueblo. The rooms are decorated in local products including textiles, paintings, ceramics and candles. One of the best aspects of the hotel was the outdoor kitchen! It’s equipped with a wood burning comal, grill and traditional clay dish-ware. The space is decorated with a colorful tiled backsplash, basket lights and live edge dining table. The owners provide clean drinking water and freshly brewed coffee from Cafe Las Marias up the street. Book on Airbnb.

Getting to Lago Atitlán  

We hired a transfer ahead of time from the airport in Guatemala City to bring us to Panajachel. The trip took 4 hours due to traffic. We hired the same company to transfer us from San Juan back to the airport. The trip took 3 hours. We booked on Viator. 

Getting Around Lago Atitlán  

Public Ferries (Lanchas). Public ferries are an enjoyable way to sightsee and happen to be the most affordable method to visit towns along Lake Atitlán. Ferries operate from docks in town, starting at 6:30am until 5:30pm. They travel in a circuit around the lake stopping at most towns between Panajachal and San Pedro, including Santa Cruz, Jaibalito, Tsununa, San Marcos, San Pablo and San Juan. 

• Ferry Prices.  Tickets cost 15-25Q per person depending on the distance between towns. There is typically an authorized price chart at the ferry dock with the latest prices. Anything more than what’s listed is a scam. 

• Beware of Scammers.  People at the docks can be scammy telling you there are no public ferries to your destination and the only option is a private boat. This is not true if traveling between the hours of 6:30am to 5:30pm. Ignore them and keep asking around for the public ferry. 

• Good to Know.  Ferries don’t depart until there are at least a dozen passengers on board. We never waited longer than 15 minutes. The water gets increasingly bumpy and wavy in the afternoon due to wind.

Tuk-Tuks. Tuk-tuks are readily available to get around town at all hours. Prices typically cost between 5-10Q per person. Tuk-tuks can travel between towns but drop off on the edge of the next town. The price varies depending on the distance between towns. 

On Foot. If you’re okay walking uphill, most of the towns are easily walkable. It’s a great way to see the local culture, murals and views of the lake. 

Location Specifics

Fireworks.  Fireworks are regularly set off in all pueblos of Lake Atitlán, day and night. The echos sound lake a volcanic eruption! 

Safety.  We felt safe in all of the cities we visited along Lake Atitlán and kept aware of our surroundings. We followed common recomendations like hiring a guide when hiking and didn’t walk between towns, especially at night. 

Toilets.  Like most places in Central and South America, used toilet paper is thrown in the bin, not the toilet. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is unsafe to drink in Guatemala due to contamination. Stick to bottled or purified water.

Cash vs Card.  Most businesses only accept cash. Carry enough for the day. There is at least one ATM or currency exchange in all of the major towns around the lake. 

Stray Dogs.  Stray dogs are common around the pueblos of Lake Atitlán. They’re rarely aggressive but best left alone. 

Elsewhere in Guatemala

From colonial cities to ancient jungle temples, discover more of Guatemala beyond the shores of Lake Atitlán.

Antigua Guatemala Travel Guide: Acatenango, Colonial Charm & Local Cuisine.‍ ‍Explore Antigua Guatemala's cobblestone streets, colonial architecture and local cuisine beneath towering volcanoes, including the iconic hike to Acatenango and Fuego. 

Maya Ruins Travel Guide: Jungles, Temples & Ancient Cities.‍ ‍Journey through ancient Maya cities, temples and archaeological wonders across Belize and Guatemala while exploring dramatic jungle landscapes.

For Next Time…

Having been to Guatemala three times, we’re certain to return! There are few things high on our list next time we visit this magical country 

• Flores. A colorful colonial island town on one of Guatemala’s mountainous lakes. We were teased seeing the city from above on a layover from Belize to Guatemala City. 

• Tikal Sunrise Hike.  An early morning hike in Tikal to watch the sunrise from the top of the famed pyramids. We saw photos of the colorful sunrise, layers of morning mist and dramatic ruins peak from jungleous canopy below.

• Chichicastenango.  Latin America’s largest outdoor market known for its handicrafts, textiles and jewelry. If we make it back to Lake Atitlán, we’ll take a day trip here from Panajachel

San Miguel de Allende Travel Guide: Food, Art & Colonial Charm

San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

San Miguel de Allende is a charming and historic pueblo famed for its unique architecture, vaquero lifestyle, desert landscapes and vineyards.  

A Historic Pueblo 

The town is best explored on foot. The stone paved streets exude warmth as painted buildings alternate in tones of tan, amber, orange, red and ochre. At night, street lanterns illuminate the city in an incandescent glow. Ornate Neo-gothic and Baroque style cathedrals with grand spires tower above rooftop terraces offering sunset views of the pueblo. Locals, tourists and expats are styled in silver jewelry, leather boots, cowboy hats and woolen ponchos sold by vendors at artisan markets and boutiques.

Despite its dry surroundings, it’s a verdant place with potted cacti, blossoming plants, sculpted trees and tall shrubs completing with the height of the cathedral spires. Church bells ring out regularly as mariachi bands perform in plazas adding music to the already lively ambience. Unsurprisingly, San Miguel de Allende is listed as one of Mexico’s Pueblos Magicos and recognized as a UNESCO Heritage Sight. 

Neighborhoods & Streets 

Zona Central.  The neighborhood at the city center with a high concentration of warmly painted historic buildings, monumental cathedrals, treelined plazas, artisan markets, boutique shops, hotels, restaurants and rooftop bars. It’s the ideal neighborhood to stay in and explore on foot while visiting San Miguel. 

Barrio de Guadalupe.  A residential neighborhood north of the city center with walls decorated in mosaics and murals of Mexican culture. We spent time wandering the open air gallery of streets admiring the works. Some of our favorites were mosaics of Frida Kahlo, Dia de los Muertos Catrinas, and a masked Lucha Libre wrestler. 

Call Aldama.  A photogenic street with historic and warmly painted buildings centered on the gothic spires and domes of Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel.

Callejon de Chorro.  A winding and hilly street surrounded by landscaped gardens, historic public laundries, stepped walkways and red painted colonial architecture in the oldest area of the city. It reminded us of Lombard Street in San Francisco. 

See the Sights 

La Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel.  A towering neo-gothic cathedral located in the city center with pointed spires and vaulted arches constructed from pink stone. It the Disney castle of cathedrals and beautiful to view both day and night.

Torre del Reloj.  A pink, orange and tan stone neo-gothic clock tower attached to the cathedral. 

El Jardín Allende.  A popular tree covered plaza in front of the cathedral with views of its pink spires and the adjacent clock tower. It has a lively and cultural atmosphere. Well dressed Mariachi bands walk through the plaza performing for visitors both day and night while Mojigangas, giant painted paper-mache puppets, walk around posing for photos. The sides of the plaza are flanked by buildings with ground floor restaurants and shops. 

El Mirador.  A hilltop lookout with views of the city center, cathedral spires, white domed roofs and desert landscape. We visited in the morning when the city was well lit however it’s also a popular sunset viewpoint.

Plaza de la Soledad.  A plaza in front of the Templo de Nuestra Señora de La Salud with sculpted trees and bushes. Vendors walk around selling sombreros and ice cream. 

Templo del Oratorio de San Felipe Neri.  A pink, orange and red stone cathedral with an ornate baroque style facade and multilevel bell tower. 

Templo de San Francisco.  A historic cathedral with an intricately carved stone facade and bell tower. Visitors gather in a beautiful park with sculpted trees and bushes in front. 

Templo de Nuestra Señora de La Salud.  A historic church with recessed stone facade capped with an inverted shell design. 

Parque Benito Juarez.  A quiet and peaceful city park with well landscaped gardens, lush tree covered walkways, small fountains and sculptures. 

Charco del Ingenio.  A dry and aired botanical garden with trails leading through the landscape past thorny bushes, cacti and maguey plants. The park is divided by a steep volcanic canyon and dam holding back a lake with different sections and sights speckled throughout. 

• The Canyon Trail.  A narrow trail following the canyon’s edge with views of its volcanic stone walls. Shout into it to hear your echo reverberate back. 

• The Birdwatching Trail.  A trail following the reservoir home to migratory and aquatic birds. 

• Sculpture Garden Trail.  A trail leading from the welcome center towards the western viewpoints with several sculptures along the way. 

• Regional Plant Trail.  A trail leading between the conservatory and welcome center with native plants and cacti. 

• The Western Viewpoints.  A series of overlooks along the western park trails with panoramic views of San Miguel de Allende, the canyon and Guanajuato Mountains. 

• Pollinator’s Garden.  A garden with hummingbirds and honey bees buzzing around, pollinating the budding and flowering flora. 

• Conservatory of Mexican Plants.  A glass building home to all types of prickly and thorny native plants and cacti. 

Shop the Markets 

Ignacio Ramirez Market.  A colorful market with aisles vendors selling fruits, vegetables, flowers, piñatas and miscellaneous dry goods like beans, corn husks and tostadas. A section with restaurants serves affordable Mexican classics like quesadillas, gorditas, molletes and flautas. We ordered lunch from Los Farolitos spending less than 200 pesos.

Mercado de Artesanías.  An artisanal market attached to Ignacio Ramirez with locally made leather goods, textiles, pottery and jewelry. Vendors sell everything from cowboy boots and hats, leather shoes and belts, silver and beaded jewelry, woven rugs and blankets, hand embroidered pillows and tortilla holders and traditional clay pottery like cafe de olla mugs and cazuelas. 

Calle Lucas Balderas.  A covered street extending from the Mercado de Artesanías with dozens of silver and craft vendors selling jewelry, sculptures, tableware, paintings and textiles. Like with all markets, prices are negotiable, especially if paying in cash. We bought a minimal silver bangle and ring for less than 40 USD. 

Fabrica La Aurora.  A former textile factory converted into a high end artisan market and showroom with furniture vendors, art galleries, home good stores, antiques and restaurants. 

Places to Eat & Drink

The Rooftop at Selina.  A rooftop restaurant and bar with sunset views overlooking the warmly painted buildings and landscape stretching beyond San Miguel. We sipped on cocktails at the bar while the sun set and murmurations of migratory birds flew across the sky. 

Don Taco Tequila.  A vegan taqueria with a wide range of vegan meat, mushroom and veggie tacos prepared on house made tortilla and paired with homemade salsas ranging in flavor and spiciness. Their bar menu boasts a short list of cocktails wider range of sipping tequilas and mezcals. Try the tacos Pastor, Don Chicharo, Chicharrito and Bigotes for an array of savory flavors.

San Telmo Gastro Pub.  A restaurant and bar with a classic yet eclectic interior and stage with nightly singers. We stopped in for a glass of wine while listening to the musicians perform. 

Panio Bakery.  A Mexican and French style bakery with conchas, croissants, donuts, baguettes and honey bread. 

Cerveceria Allende.  A craft brewery and tap room with house brewed beers. We tried the Golden Ale, an easy drinking and flavorful classic beer as well as the Brown Ale, a thicker and slightly sweet beer.

La Michoacana del Portón.  A ice cream and peleta shop with dozens of water and cream based flavors. We stopped in while walking across town, ordering guava and horchata peletas.

Places to Shop

Other than the artisan markets, the central neighborhood has numerous shops and boutiques with locally made goods. We visited multiple shops and have a few favorites. 

Artesanías Alcatráz Loka.  A boutique with traditional and contemporary style leather goods including boots, jackets, bags and belts. I found a pair of cowboy boots made from black leather and white leather stars. Unfortunately it wasn’t available in my size. 

Casilda Mut.  A small boutique with cowboy hats, leather jackets and silver accessories. I found a cropped and studded leather jacket that fit perfectly but the price was well out of reach.

Maison Manhes.  A tiny shop with locally made items and art including natural wool ponchos, colorful woven baskets and bags and hand painted ceramic dishes. 

Where to Stay

Casa Lool Beh.  A beautiful guest house with private rooms and shared commons spaces like a cozy rooftop terrace, kitchen and living room lounge. It’s centrally located, one street away from Jardín Allende. At the same time, it’s very hidden. We entered through, La Cabra Iluminada, a ground floor cafe with a lush courtyard and took the stairs to reach our room. 

Location Specifics

Safety.  The city is extremely safe both day and night with minimal security concerns or recent issues. 

Senior Travel.  San Miguel de Allende is a popular destination for senior citizens and retired expats due to its slower pace, walkable streets, temperate climate and affordable costs of living compared to the United States.

Costs.  Though costs of living are much less than in the US, the city is more expensive destination than other cities in Mexico. 

Cash vs Card.  Most businesses accept cash or card when paying however there is often a cash discount. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption. It’s best to drink filtered or bottled water. 

Getting Here and Around

Getting Here by Bus.  We took an ETN Busround trip from Mexico City. Ticket prices are significantly costlier than other bus companies like ADO. The bus however is comfortable and reliable with assigned seats, on board restrooms and charging ports for devices. 

Getting Around on Foot.  The city is best explored and admired on foot. Its historic neighborhoods are easily walkable. 

Getting Around by Taxi or Uber.  Both taxis and Ubers are readily available and affordable methods for getting around the city, with prices costing 50-100 pesos in town. 

Elsewhere in Mexico

From colorful colonial streets to Caribbean beaches, Indigenous traditions and world famous culinary destinations, explore more of Mexico beyond San Miguel de Allende through these travel guides:  

Caribbean Mexico

Riviera Maya Travel Guide: Beaches, Cenotes & Mayan Ruins.  Discover the Riviera Maya's white sand beaches, turquoise waters, hidden cenotes, ancient Mayan ruins and vibrant culture along Mexico's Caribbean coast.

Tulum Travel Guide: Cenotes, Beaches & Mayan Ruins.  Explore Tulum's cliffside Mayan ruins, white sand beaches, hidden cenotes and jungle landscapes along Mexico's turquoise Caribbean coast.

Bacalar Travel Guide: The Lagoon of Seven Colors & Hidden Gems.  Discover Bacalar's Lagoon of Seven Colors, where turquoise waters, shallow sandbars and ancient stromatolites create one of Mexico's most remarkable landscapes.

Central Mexico

Mexico City Travel Guide: Neighborhoods, Food & Local Culture.  Wander through Mexico City's vibrant neighborhoods, local markets and cultural landmarks where centuries of history, cuisine and modern life converge.

Day of the Dead in Mexico City (Día de los Muertos) Travel Guide.  Experience Day of the Dead in Mexico City through cultural traditions, lively celebrations and vibrant ofrendas honoring loved ones and ancestral heritage.

Southern Mexico 

Oaxaca Travel Guide: Food, Mezcal & Cultural Experiences.  Immerse yourself in Oaxaca, Mexico's cultural hub for vibrant markets, artisanal mezcal, regional cuisine, scenic landscapes and centuries of tradition.

Puerto Escondido Travel Guide: Beaches, Surfing & Coastal Culture.  Escape to Puerto Escondido, a laid back surf town on Oaxaca's Pacific coast where palm lined beaches and sandy streets embody coastal culture.

For Next Time…

We only spent a couple of days in San Miguel de Allende but fell in love with this charming city, its desert landscapes and Vaquero style boutiques. We’re sure to return and have a list of things to do, see and buy when we do. 

Vaquero Boutiques.  We window shopped at several boutiques around San Miguel’s center. We tried on boots, jackets, poncho and cowboy hats and have a few items in mind to purchase when we return. 

Vineyard Tours.  The countryside of San Miguel de Allende is one of Mexico’s largest wine producing regions with vineyards and winemakers. While here we were able to sample a couple wines.

• Hacienda San Miguel.  A vineyard outside of the city with bottles labeled in Mexican banderas. We tried their mid bodied red blend made from Shiraz, Tempranillo and Cabernet. 

• Casa Madero.  Though not near San Miguel, it’s the oldest vineyard in the Americas, dating back to 1597. We tried their Merlot, a full bodied and flavorful red wine. 

Horseback Riding.  Various companies offer horseback riding tours ranging around the city and countryside ranging from half day to overnight. Short on time, we weren’t able to gallop across the desert landscape into the sunset but are keeping a couple of well reviewed providers in mind for next time, San Miguel Parque de Aventuras and Coyote Canyon Tour. 

Plaza de Toros San Miguel de Allende.  A coliseum in the historic center used for rodeos, bull flighting and Mexican opera.  Though we don’t agree with bullfighting, seeing a rodeo or opera would be a special experience.

Cañada de la Virgen.  A nature preserve and archeological sight with Otomi pyramids and ruins located about 20 minutes by car form the city center. 

Puerto Escondido Travel Guide: Beaches, Surfing & Coastal Culture

Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca

Puerto Escondido is a tropical surf town on Oaxaca’s Pacific coast. Relaxing days on palm lined beaches make way to lively evenings along sandy streets.

A Tropical Escape 

There are few better things than the sand between our toes and salt in our hair. We sat on the beach for three days, sunbathing, surfing, drinking tropical cocktails, eating seafood tacos and getting tattoos.  

La Punta

La Punta is neighborhood on the far eastern end of Playa Zicaleta. It’s popular with surfers, digital nomads, expats and young travelers. Under the bamboo and palm thatched buildings are shops selling beach attire, tropical jewelry and surf boards. Coffee shops, taquerias and cocktail bars line the neighborhood’s sand covered streets and dirt roads. Posters advertising nightly parties are displayed at hostels and tattoo parlors.

Beaches 

Playa Zicaleta.  A long tan sand beach stretching across a large expanse of Puerto Escondido’s shoreline. 

Playa Punta.  The most eastern section of Playa Zicaleta. The beach is a surfers paradise with lessons, board rentals and surfers riding waves from first light until sunset. Tanned and tattooed beach goers relax under umbrellas, walk along the shore and frolic in the ocean waves. Beachfront restaurants rent umbrellas and lounges, serve seafood dishes, tropical cocktails and inexpensive local beers. It’s a popular spot to watch the sunset over the ocean. We were even lucky enough to withness the green flash as the last of the sun dipped below the horizon. 

Things to Do 

Lounge on the Beach.  Visit Punta Puerto on Puntas Beach, an ocean front restaurant and bar with rentable sun lounges and umbrellas. At the time, prices cost 200 pesos for a lounge and umbrella for the full day with no minimum spend. This was significantly less than any of the other spots nearby. Service and drinks were great, the food was a little bland but for the price, it was absolutely worth it.

Take a Surf Lesson.  Puerto Escondido is a surfer’s haven with plenty of waves for beginners to experts. I booked a two hour group lesson with Silva Surf School, meeting the instructors at 7am and catching the morning’s first waves as the sun was rising. The instructors were very helpful providing a push to catch waves and pointers on how to “pop up,” balance on the board, ride and safely fall off. They provided a 9ft fiberglass surfboard that glided through the water with plenty stability, making it easy to catch every 3 to 5 foot wave that came in. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Armonía Café.  A small cafe with smoothie bowls, juices and strong coffees. We stopped in after surfing ordering the açaí bowl, made with mixed berries and banana as well as the spirulina bowl, made with greens and banana. 

La Punta Restaurant & Bar.  A beachfront restaurant and bar with sun lounges and cold Mexican beers. 

La Ola Taquería.  A taqueria along a narrow and sandy alleyway leading to the beach with a vast menu of seafood tacos and dishes. We ordered multiple dishes a la carte including the coconut shrimp tacos, fish tacos, tamarind ceviche and octopus tostada! 

Fish Shack La Punta.  A seafood shack preparing fish tacos, baskets and sandwiches. It’s the perfect lunch spot after spending time on the beach! Come for their fried fish sandwich or shrimp po’boy paired with a Mexican beer. 

Helados Palma Negra.  A shop serving tropical flavored ice cream and paletas. Try the mango passion fruit, mango tajin or chocolate coconut. 

Terraza Los Costenos.  A cozy oceanfront terrace nestled between the swaying fronds of verdant palm trees with tiki, tropical and mezcal cocktails. Try the Tropical, a mezcal, rum and passion fruit cocktail or the Tiki Taka, a floral gin and strawberry cocktail. 

Bikini Cocktail Bar.  A tropical beach shack style bar with bamboo walls, wooden swings for seats and Mexican inspired tiki cocktails. We quickly became regulars here, sampling half the menu. Try the Boo Loo, a mezcal, passion fruit and pineapple cocktail or the Elderfower Tiki, a mezcal, st germain and kombucha cocktail. 

Juana Mezcala.  A mezcal cocktail bar with shareable bites and nightly live music. To drink, try the Hibiscus Mezcalita or Santa Juana made with mezcal, chartreuse and hoja santa. To share, order the grilled pineapple and shrimp skewers cooked in mezcal or jalapeño poppers. 

Where to Stay

Punta Bungalows.  A boutique hostel a few streets from the beach with private rooms, a large shared kitchen, an outdoor pool, comfy hammocks and a tropical garden. We loved waking up to scent of the plumeria trees, wearing fallen flowers above our each morning. Reserve on Airbnb. 

Getting to Puerto Escondido 

We took an ADO Bus from Oaxaca City to Puerto Escondido. The ride took 3 hours through mountain roads and tunnels. The closer to the coast, the more verdant the landscape became and winding the roads twisted. 

Elsewhere in Mexico

From Pacific surf breaks and coastal villages to colonial cities, ancient ruins and the turquoise waters of the Caribbean coast, discover more of Mexico through these travel guides:  

Caribbean Mexico

Riviera Maya Travel Guide: Beaches, Cenotes & Mayan Ruins.  Discover the Riviera Maya's white sand beaches, turquoise waters, hidden cenotes, ancient Mayan ruins and vibrant culture along Mexico's Caribbean coast.

Tulum Travel Guide: Cenotes, Beaches & Mayan Ruins.  Explore Tulum's cliffside Mayan ruins, white sand beaches, hidden cenotes and jungle landscapes along Mexico's turquoise Caribbean coast.

Bacalar Travel Guide: The Lagoon of Seven Colors & Hidden Gems.  Discover Bacalar's Lagoon of Seven Colors, where turquoise waters, shallow sandbars and ancient stromatolites create one of Mexico's most remarkable landscapes.

Central Mexico

Mexico City Travel Guide: Neighborhoods, Food & Local Culture.  Wander through Mexico City's vibrant neighborhoods, local markets and cultural landmarks where centuries of history, cuisine and modern life converge.

Day of the Dead in Mexico City (Día de los Muertos) Travel Guide.  Experience Day of the Dead in Mexico City through cultural traditions, lively celebrations and vibrant ofrendas honoring loved ones and ancestral heritage.

San Miguel de Allende Travel Guide: Food, Art & Colonial Charm.  Stroll through San Miguel de Allende's cobblestone streets and historic plazas where cuisine, art and music bring one of Mexico's most charming colonial cities to life.

Southern Mexico

Oaxaca Travel Guide: Food, Mezcal & Cultural Experiences.  Immerse yourself in Oaxaca, Mexico's cultural hub for vibrant markets, artisanal mezcal, regional cuisine, scenic landscapes and centuries of tradition.

For Next Time…

Explore El Centro.  We made the most of our time in the Puntas neighborhood. When we return, we plan to explore the beaches, markets, restaurants, cafes and bars of the city’s central neighborhood. 

Playa Zipolote.  Mexico’s only official nude beach located an hour and a half down the coast. It’s popular for swimming, surfing and sunbathing. Unlike most nude beaches, it has beachfront bars and restaurants. 

Playa Del Amor.  A queer friendly nude beach at the east end of Zipolote Beach. We can’t wait to return to Oaxaca’s coast for this alone. 

Oaxaca Travel Guide: Food, Mezcal & Cultural Experiences

Oaxaca, Mexico

Oaxaca is the cultural hub of Mexico famed for its cuisine, artisan goods, ancient ruins, colonial pueblos and scenic landscapes. Across the region, traditional dishes are prepared by street food vendors, in restaurants and at markets. Generations of artisan makers produce patterned textiles, vibrant alebrijes, wood block prints, leather goods and traditional ceramics. Archeological sights and museums display ruins and artifacts from the Zapotec civilization. The mountainous desert landscape is covered in fields of maguey plants and Mezcal distilleries. Tropical beaches and surf towns line its Pacific coast. At its center, an energetic and colorful capital city is where the best of everything in Oaxaca comes together. We spent over a week here, meeting up with friends and exploring the region together. 

Bienvenidos a la Oaxaca! 

We arrived after midnight in Oaxaca. On our first morning, we were woken up by the sounds of the Tamale Lady listing off her tamales over a loud speaker. “Tamales de amarillo, tamales de raja, tamales de salsa verde, tamales de pollo, tamales de cebolla, tamales de elote, tamales de chipilín.” The list went on and on! We were in Oaxaca! 

Oaxaca de Juarez

Oaxaca de Juarez is the metropolitan center of Oaxaca. Its cobblestone streets are lined with historic colonial buildings, draped with colorful Mexican banderas and decorated with street art and murals. Around town, the vibrant culture is experienced through cuisine and artistry. Local dishes are served at Oaxacan style restaurants, food markets and from street carts. Artisan goods produced in pueblos across the region are sold in shops and displayed in galleries and museums.

Barrios de Oaxaca

Centro Historico.  The historic center of Oaxaca is an architectural gem home to numerous cultural sights, markets, hotels, artisan shops, restaurants and cafes. Its photogenic streets are a sight to wander. Adobe facades are painted in a spectrum of vibrant hues and large murals. Ornate stone buildings and cathedrals overlook lush plazas. Flowering trees and potted cacti rest on rooftop ledges and decorate courtyards. 

Barrio de Jalatlaco.  A small and invitingly youthful barrio with indie vibes, print studios, thrift shops, used book store, hostels, digital nomad friendly cafes and mezcal bars. Much like the city center, the cobblestone streets are decorated with strings of colorful banderas and vibrantly painted buildings. Paper graffiti and murals depicting cultural scenes and traditions like dancing, piñatas and Dia de Los Muertos celebrations cover walls.

Visit the Plazas & Squares 

El Llano.  A large plaza with fountains, walkways and gardens with cacti, palms and yellow flowering trees. The perimeter is lined with food carts selling agua frescas, griddled hamburgers, candies, pan dulces, coffee and tortas. We ordered iced coffees and cococada, essentially a hay stack of sweetened and baked coconut. We wandered around, people watched and posed in a photo booth. 

Plaza de la Danza.  A plaza dedicated to restaurants serving dozens of flavors of Nieves, A creamy and icy frozen treat similar to a sherbet. Visiting with a group of friends, we ordered a range of scoops combining several regional flavors like mamay (creamy fruit), elote (sweet corn), leche quemada (burnt milk), tuna (prickly pear), tequila and mezcal. 

See the Sights & Museums

Museum of Cultures of Oaxaca.  A former convent converted into a cultural museum built from Cantera, Oaxaca’s iconic green tinted volcanic stone. The museum houses artifacts from Monte Albán including ceramics, stone stelas and most notably, the Mixtec treasures once buried in Tomb 7 at the ruins. The tomb’s treasures include intricate gold masks, beaded jewelry made from a range of precious materials, elaborate ceramic figures, intricately carved bones and most notably, a skull with cranial deformations decorated in a fine mosaic of turquoise. Other exhibits include a historic library, artifacts from the colonial period and of Oaxacan artists. 

Catedral Metropolitana.  A nearly 500 year old cathedral with symmetrical bell towers and a baroque style facade carved from stone blocks. 

Museo Textile de Oaxaca.  A small museum with textiles from the Oaxaca and across Central America featuring traditional designs and contemporary pieces. It’s free to enter. 

Shop the Markets 

Mercado Benito Juarez.  A vast market with all manner of vendors selling fruits and vegetables, meats, seafood, mounds of mole pastes, bottles of mezcals, Oaxacan cheese, corn tostadas, dried chile peppers, barrels of spiced chapulenes (grass hoppers), fresh cut flowers and handmade items. We shopped here for groceries, snacks and mezcal. 

Mercado 20 de Noviembre.  A large food market with aisles of vendors selling breads, traditional Oaxacan dishes and grilled meats. The intoxicating smell of freshly baked breads wafts from dozens of panaderías selling Pan de Yema, Mollettes de Panela, Pan Amarillo and various Pan Dulces. From kitchens within the maze of restaurant stands, cooks shout out their menu offerings, typically including Oaxacan staples like tlayudas, mole y pollo and chiles rellenos. Wafts of heat, smoke and the sizzling smell of grilled meats and sausages radiates from Pasillo de Humo, a passageway with coal and wooded fired grill stations. We ate here for breakfast and lunch visiting two restaurant stands. 

• Fonda Lupita for tlayudas and pan de yema served with a mug of cafe de olla. 

• La Abulita for tlayudas, horchata and freshly squeezed orange juice. We shared a vegetarian tlayuda prepared with a large cracker thin tortilla and covered in puréed black beans, bright orange squash flowers, Oaxacan cheese, lettuce, tomato and avocado. 

Monte Alban

Monte Alban is an ancient Zapotec hilltop acropolis with stepped pyramids, ball courts, astronomical temples, grand plazas, platforms, palaces and tombs. We spent four hours exploring the ruins, reading the plaques and contemplating life during the ancient times of the Zapotec.

Galería de Los Danzantes (Gallery of The Dancers).  A stone wall adorned with over a dozen carvings of castrated male figures depicting a blood sacrifice or fertility ritual. 

Plataforma Sur (South Platform).  The tallest platform and pyramid of the entire acropolis located at its most southern point. 

Edificio 1 (Building 1).  The only building of the entire acropolis that does not align with the cardinal points. It is thought to have been used as an astronomical observatory by Zapotec persists. It’s adorned with a series of conquest stones depicting Zapotec battles and victory’s 

Platforma Norte (North Platform).  The largest platform of the entire acropolis with several well preserved pyramids buildings and structures featuring geometric designs and monumental stelas.  

El Patio Hundido (The Sunken Patio).  A prominent feature of the North Platform, a sunken patio with an alter at its center used for ceremonies and rituals. 

Juego de Pelota (Ball Court).  A large ball court with sloped stone sides and a goal marker on the floor of its center. Contrasted with Mayan ball courts, the Zapotec did not sacrifice players but used the game for religious celebrations and to settle disputes. 

Monte Alban Museum.  A museum with ornate stelas, well preserved ceramic pottery and human remains found in the tombs of Monte Alban. 

Getting Here.  We took a round trip shuttle from the Centro Historico with Lescas Co Tours. The ride took 20 minutes through the city and winding hillside. Pick up was every hour. 

Mezcal Tour 

Oaxaca is the birthplace of Mezcal, a smoky spirit distilled from the maguey plant. We toured two Palenques, distilleries where mezcal is produced and a maguey field where the plant is grown. 

Palenque de Rosaluna.  A small batch mezcal distillery where we saw, smelled and tasted every aspect of the mezcal production. As we toured the palenque, a truck load of harvested maguey cores, also called piñas, were being delivered. In an underground oven, roasting piñas filled the air with a smoky and sweet scent. An empty pit lined with lava rocks waited to be used next to it. We tasted the raw bitter piña and molasses like roasted piña for comparison. Inside the fermentation warehouse, the smoky and sweet scents intensified. A large pile of roasted piña were being chopped up and pressed into pulp by a stone wheel. The pulp was transferred to huge pine barrels where it fermented before being pressed and distilled. We tasted mezcal dripping straight from the distilling copper drums and finally terracotta shot glasses of the bottled spirit. 

Palenque Mal de Amor.  A historic mezcal distillery that follows traditional production methods. Underground ovens are used to roast the cores of the maguey. Horses pull large stone wheels to grind the roasted maguey into pulp. Pine barrels are used to ferment the pulp. Wood burning ovens are used to heat and distill the pressed pulp into mezcal. Brands like Illegal Mezcal, Mal de Amor and Ve Lua are produced here. We tasted over a dozen types of mezcal in fluted glasses repurposed from prayer candles. Flavors were always smoky with sometimes sweet, spicy and even funky notes. 

Maguey Fields.  The Oaxacan landscape is covered in fields of maguey plants used to produce Mezcal. Under a cloudless blue sky, we visited one to learn about the agricultural and harvesting process. Machete in hand and several mezcals in, we practiced chopping off blades from the maguey before sipping on mezcal poured down one of the plants severed arms. 

Hierve de Agua 

Hierve el Agua is a “petrified waterfall” formed over thousands of years by mineral rich cold springs. As water flows down the mountainside, it deposits calcite, creating white rippled terraces, natural pools and stunning white rock formations that look like a frozen waterfalls. Trails lead to cliff edge swimming pools, waterfall overlooks and small geysers with bubbling springs of cool salty water. It’s one of one two petrified waterfalls in the world. 

Vendors.  There is a path with vendors selling coconuts, swimsuits, sweaters, Oaxacan hot chocolate and Mexican dishes between the parking lot and trail head. For lunch, we ordered tacos, quesadillas, memelas andhot chocolates cooked over a wood burning stove. 

Pro Tip. It gets very cold and windy in the late afternoon. Bring layers to keep warm. 

Getting to Hierve el Agua

Getting to Hierve el Agua is an adventure! We took a series of colecticos here and back from Oaxaca City. 

Step 1 - Oaxaca to Mitla. Hire a colectivo from Oaxaca City to Mitla. Colectivos wait at the corner in front of the Eduardo Vasconcelos Stadium. Colectivos are the burgundy colored shared taxis with a white side strip. It should cost no more than 500 pesos total (less per person). The ride takes under an hour to reach Mitla.

Step 2 - Mitla. In Mitla, walk down the main road, Avenida Internacional, until finding the “colectivo trucks” to Hierve el Agua. Trucks leave every 30 minutes for 900 pesos total. Trucks typically leave with a minimum of 12 people, meaning the cost per person is at least 75 pesos. It costs more per person if less than 12 people. 

Step 3 - Mitla to Hierve el Agua. Hop in the back to the covered truck and ride over an hour through the mountain roads to reach Hierve el Agua. There is a 15 peso toll per person when leaving Mitla. 

Step 4 - Getting Back to Oaxaca City. The last truck from Hierve el Agua to Mitla leaves at 6pm. Ask the driver to be dropped off at the bus station where colectivos wait. Hire a colectivo to Tule for 200 - 300 pesos total or back to Oaxaca City Centro for 500 pesos. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Catrina de Alcalá.  A hotel restaurant in an atrium flanked by stone columns with large colorful piñatas decorating the space. The restaurant serves traditional Oaxacan breakfasts, coffee and conches. We ordered spicy eggs dishes including Huevos a la Oaxaqueña Molcajete y Quesillo Gratinado and Chilaquiles en Salsa de Molcajete con Huevos. 

Cafe Brújula.  A cafe with locations around the Centro Historico brewing extremely strong coffees, espressos and cold brews. It’s the perfect spot to get a caffeine kick and cool down from the mid afternoon heat. Order one with a shot of mezcal! 

Santo de Mi Devocion.  A moody mezcal cocktail bar with a blackened interior and skull decor. The mixologists shake and stir Oaxacan mezcals with regional ingredients like hibiscus, passion fruit, ancho reyes, tamarind, agave honey, pineapple and chile serrano. 

Armadillo Negro.  A cocktail bar and restaurant with tapas style Oaxacan dishes, mezcal cocktails and live music in an outdoor patio. 

Donas y Churros El Vega.  The best churros in all of Oaxaca! The sweet and sugary smell lured us in from down the street to their display of stacked churros, glazed donuts and cream filled pastries. 20 pesos buys a paper bag with four churros, either covered in sugar, dipped in chocolate or mixed. 

Chocolate Mayordomo.  An incredibly popular Oaxacan cafe chain known for their chocolatey drinks. Recommended by multiple locals, we ordered the Choco Mio, a cold chocolate milk spiced with cinnamon and vanilla. It pairs well with a fresh baked concha from their bakery. 

Levadura de Olla Restaurante.  A Michelin starred restaurant serving traditional, ceremonial and contemporary Oaxacan cuisine. All dishes are prepared with seasonal ingredients and served on locally made clay pottery. Try the guacamole topped with chapuline, creamy corn soup garnished with squash flowers and Oaxacan tomato salad.

Mundo Ceiba AC.  A late night restaurant, bar and bike rental shop with inexpensive meals, beers and mezcals. Come for the vegetarian burritos and tlyudas.

Vaca Marina.  A high end seafood and beef restaurant with a rooftop terrace and views of the Templo de Santo Domingo. We came here for a glass of Mexican wine at golden hour, watching the sunset and illuminate the cathedral. 

Con Vista Al Mar.  Affordable and authentic Mexican tacos, snacks, beers and mezcals. We stopped in for an afternoon happy hour, ordering doubles of mezcal, guacamole and calamari. 

Oaxacan Cuisine 

Oaxaca is the gastronomic hub of Mexico home to many of the counties most iconic and traditional dishes and drinks. We tried as many as possible while here to taste them in their most authentic form.

• Tejate.  A traditional Oaxacan chocolate drink made from the fats and flower of the cacao plant.

• Enmoladas.  Any type of taco served or covered with mole sauce. 

• Cocoa Caliente.  Spiced traditional hot chocolate drink made with cocoa, cinnamon, sugar and milk. It’s often mixed with a wooden spindle called a Molinillo. 

• Tomato Salad.  A salad made from sliced tomatoes, tomatillos, onions, radish, cilantro and lime.  

• Tlayudas.  Large grilled crunchy tortillas topped with ingredients like beans, avocado, tomato and cheese.

• Tamales.  Warm packets of steamed and cooked masa stuffed with any number of fillings wrapped in dried corn husks and often served with a spicy chile sauce or mole.

• Atole.  A hot chocolaty and warm spiced drink thickened by rice flower. 

• Chipilín.  A Central American herb with a flavor similar to spinach. 

• Chapulines.  A local delicacy, roasted grasshoppers often cooked with spices or chile lime. They have a tangy and grassy flavor. The larger ones are crunchy snacks while the smaller ones are perfect for garnishing all types of dishes. They’re sold size by size and flavor in barrels at the markets and by street food vendors. 

• Mole.  A savory and spicy sauce used to envelop countless Oaxacan style dishes. It comes in multiple varieties, made from nearly two dozen ingredients, including dried chile peppers, warm spices, nuts, seeds, berries, day old tortillas, chocolate and typically lard. It’s sold as a paste or powder in mounds at the local markets. 

• Tacos Dorados (Taquitos).  Rolled tortillas filled with cheese, meats or veggies and deep fried. 

• Molotes (Empanadas).  Half circular corn masa pockets often filled with cheese, meats or veggies and deep fried.

• Memelas.  A thick ovular tortilla grilled on comal topped with beans and cheese.

• Tacos.  Corn tortillas folded in half with meats, beans, cacti, insects, veggies, cheese and spicy sauces. 

• Tetelas.  Triangular folded tortillas filled with beans and cheese. 

• Quesillo.  A stringy Oaxacan cheese with a savory and salty flavor. 

• Tortilla Soup.  A tomato soup blended with chips or tortillas to give it a think and creamy texture.

• Mamey.  A brown tropical fruit that looks like a large kiwi. Inside it has the texture of an avocado and flavor of strawberry ice cream. 

“Buen Provecho,” a kind way of telling somewhere to enjoy their meal. It’s often said when passing by someone who is eating or preparing food. It’s commonly said to your neighbor at a restaurant when their food arrives or once you finish dining. 

Places to Stay

Oaxaca Apartment.  We stayed in a cute apartment about 20 minutes on foot from the city center. It was the perfect spot with a comfy bed, small kitchen, spacious bathroom and rooftop terrace. We shared the space with a group of friends, cooking Oaxacan style food and enjoying it together on the roof! Book on Airbnb. 

Hotel Azucenas.  A bed and breakfast in the Centro Historico with comfy rooms surrounding a small courtyard and fountain. Breakfast is served on the rooftop terrace lined with potted cacti and flowering trees. We stayed here our last night in Oaxaca City after returning from the coast. Book online or call for reservations. 

Getting Around

From the Airport.  Head to the “Sitio de Taxi” kiosk in the airport after baggage claim. From here, hire a taxi or collectivo (shared taxi van) to bring you into town. Prices vary by zone and it’s the easiest and way. Our collectivo dropped us off 3 blocks from our accommodation. 

On Foot.  The central neighborhood is very walkable on foot and the best way to explore the historic and colorful streets.

By Taxi.  Yellow cabs. Negotiate the fare before getting in and confirm the cost is not per person. We found most cab drivers to be very honest. 

By Collectivo.  Shared taxis or burgundy cabs with a white stripe. Can also double as taxis and are often cheaper, especially for longer distances.

Elsewhere in Mexico

From Oaxaca's markets and mezcalerías to ancient Maya sites, Caribbean lagoons and surf towns along the Pacific coast, discover more of Mexico through these travel guides:  

Caribbean Mexico

Riviera Maya Travel Guide: Beaches, Cenotes & Mayan Ruins.  Discover the Riviera Maya's white sand beaches, turquoise waters, hidden cenotes, ancient Mayan ruins and vibrant culture along Mexico's Caribbean coast.

Tulum Travel Guide: Cenotes, Beaches & Mayan Ruins.  Explore Tulum's cliffside Mayan ruins, white sand beaches, hidden cenotes and jungle landscapes along Mexico's turquoise Caribbean coast.

Bacalar Travel Guide: The Lagoon of Seven Colors & Hidden Gems.  Discover Bacalar's Lagoon of Seven Colors, where turquoise waters, shallow sandbars and ancient stromatolites create one of Mexico's most remarkable landscapes.

Central Mexico

Mexico City Travel Guide: Neighborhoods, Food & Local Culture.  Wander through Mexico City's vibrant neighborhoods, local markets and cultural landmarks where centuries of history, cuisine and modern life converge.

Day of the Dead in Mexico City (Día de los Muertos) Travel Guide.  Experience Day of the Dead in Mexico City through cultural traditions, lively celebrations and vibrant ofrendas honoring loved ones and ancestral heritage.

San Miguel de Allende Travel Guide: Food, Art & Colonial Charm.  Stroll through San Miguel de Allende's cobblestone streets and historic plazas where cuisine, art and music bring one of Mexico's most charming colonial cities to life.

Southern Mexico

Puerto Escondido Travel Guide: Beaches, Surfing & Coastal Culture.  Escape to Puerto Escondido, a laid back surf town on Oaxaca's Pacific coast where palm lined beaches and sandy streets embody coastal culture.

For Next Time…

Mitla.  The religious center of the Zapotecs and second most important archeological site in Oaxaca. It was a sacred burial sight and is famous for its unique mosaic patterns not seen in any other part of Mexico. Wrap your arms around column, tells you how much life you have left. 

Yagul.  An archeological sights with courtyards, tombs and ball courts. 

Prehistoric Caves of Yagul and Mitla.  A cave with paintings dating back 12,000 years. 

Teotitlán del Valle.  A town known for weaving intricate and colorful textiles made from natural dyes.  Shop at the market for rugs, table runners, blankets and clothes. 

San Martin Tilcajete. A town outside of Oaxaca known for its Alebrijes and the inspiration for Coco. 

Day of the Dead in Mexico City (Día de los Muertos) Travel Guide

Día de los Muertos

Día de los Muertos is one of Mexican culture’s most important holidays and traditions. It is a day to remember those that have died and to celebrate life. The holiday is officially celebrated on November 1st with a week of festivities leading up to it including parades, ofrendas, markets, food and decorations. 

Elements of Día de los Muertos 

Multitudes of symbols and decoration make up many elements of Día de los Muertos. Many of which are symbolic of the joy of life, life after death and honoring the deceased. 

Alebrijes.  Ornately designed and colorfully painted representations of animals and mythical creatures that act as spirit guides to the dead. They’re seen all across Mexico, especially around Day of the Dead. 

Papel Picado.  Stings of colorful paper flags with beautiful and lively images of skulls, skeletons, marigolds cut out of them. They’re a common sight, often displayed in restaurants and above ofrendas. 

Calaveras.  Colorfully painted smiling skulls intended to laugh at death. People’s faces are commonly painted as Calaveras during the Día de los Muertos festivals and parades. 

Cempasuchil.  The Aztec word for merigold. These orange flowers and their petals decorate ofrendas, homes and public spaces during Day of the Dead.

Ofrendas.  Alters to honor the dead decorated with a photo of the dead surrounded by Cempasuchil, candles, paper marché skeletons, painted sugar skulls, pan de muerto, wax models of food a bottled drink. Some ofrendas even go as far as to honor their lost pets. Ofrendas range in size from small ones at people’s homes to large ones in public squares. The most notable of which is the Mega Ofrenda, Mexico City’s largest ofrenda located in Zocalo Square. It consists of 32 ofrendas, one for each state in Mexico, flanked by a Catrina dressed in the traditional clothes and colors of the state it represents. 

La Catrina.  The classic and elegantly styled skeleton costume typically featuring a dress and large sombrero. Catrinas are common costumes worn by people during the Día de los Muertos festivals and parades.

Calacas.  Skeletal figures commonly seen during Day of the Dead. They’re a common costume by many, including us, to celebrate the parade day festivities. 

Pan de Muerto.  The sugar dusted dome of bread with two pieces of dough made to look like crossed bones. They’re made specifically by bakeries during Day of the Dead. 

Paseo de la Reforma 

Paseo de la Reforma, a long diagonal avenue that stretches across Mexico City. It is a hub for many of activities during Dia de los Muertos, most notably being the Parade. The median is planted with marigolds while the avenue is lined spectators, makeup artists painting faces, vendors selling street food, decorations, souvenirs, ofrendas and exhibits including: 

• Marigold Festival.  A tented section of the avenue With sculptures and structures decorated in different colored marigolds and vendors selling potted marigolds. 

• Mexicaneos Exhibition.  An exhibit of 50 large Calaveras displayed along the avenue.

• Alebrijes Exhibition.  An exhibit with hundreds of large and intricately designed Alebrijes displayed along the Paseo de la Reforma.

• Face Painting.  On the parade day, there are makeup artists  set up along the parade route painting faces. You can choose from a book of designs or show the artist a design. Face painting typically costs $100 Pesos ($5) and takes 10-15min.

Zocalo Square

A massive public square in the Centro Historico and hub for Mexico City’s Day of the Dead festivities. The square is decorated in towering catrinas and ofrendas each representing  a different state of Mexico. It’s the sight of many street food vendors and performances including the parade day’s “Grand Closing Ceremony.” 

The Parade

The parade is one of the largest public festivities in Mexico City leading up to Dia de los Muertos. It travels across the city ending with a grand closing ceremony in the historic center. Over a million spectators from all over Mexico and the world line the streets to celebrate. Many people arrive in costume while others get their faces painted by artists set up along the route.

The parade includes floats with giant skeletons, others dedicated to Frida Kahlo and alebrijes. There were marching bands dressed in the colors of the Mexican flag, dancers dressed as Catrinas, monarch butterflies and La Llorona as well as performers in Aztec ceremonial outfits. 

The Parade Route 

The parade traveled down Paseo de La Reforma starting from the Estela de Luz at the corner of Bosque de Chapultepec to Avenida Hildago passing Alameda Central and onto Avenida Cinco de Mayo before ending in Zócalo Square. 

The parade is a relatively new addition to the Día de los Muertos celebrations. The official route, date and time were only announced two weeks before the celebrations took place. We had to monitor Mexico City’s government website to stay up-to-date with the Official Announcements.

Where to Watch the Parade 

From the Street.  Arrive a couple of hours early and claim a spot along the metal barricades lining the parade route for the best view. It gets very busy and difficult to see if you’re further into the crowd. 

From a Restaurant or Bar.  We watched the parade in Centró Historico at a bar called Pata Negra. Though we didn’t have a front row view, we were elevated above the crowds, had a seat to sit on, restroom to use and bar to order cocktails from. 

The Grand Closing Ceremony 

The grand closing ceremony ended in Zócalo Square with a concert featuring Ángela Aguilar where she performed La Llorona and two other songs as choreographed fireworks lit up the sky in front of the grand cathedral.

Festival de Coyocan 

One of the largest festivals held during two weeks leading up to Día de los Muertos with celebrations and ofrendas. The streets surrounding the Centró de Coyoacan are lined with food vendors, mobile panaderias, handicraft booths, makeup artists, fair games and carnival rides. People from all over the neighborhood and city come here to celebrate.

Mercado Artisanal.  A two level market with stalls of vendors and artists selling alebrijes and calaveras as well as the Mexican handicrafts like textiles, books, leather goods and home decor.

Restaurants in Coyocan

Restaurant Ave Maria.  A higher end restaurant serving classic Mexican meals like enchiladas in mole, chile relleno with queso and tres leches served on traditional clay dishes 

Los Danzantes.  Oxacan style and traditional Mexican dishes, located in Coyoacán. 

Cabo Coyote.  A restaurant and bar in Centró Coyoacan. We came here for pre-dinner cocktails. 

Boicot Café Coyoacán.  A multilevel coffee shop in Coyoacan. We came here for an afternoon caffeine fix. 

Lecaroz.  A bakery specializing in Mexican pastry and breads. Visiting during Día de los Muertos, they had an endless supply of Pan de Muerto in multiple sizes.

Mexican Street Food

Street food is popular all across Mexico City, especially around Day of the Dead. Look out for vendors selling gorditias, tlayudas, elotes, chapulines and churros. 

• Gordita.  Thick corn masa tortillas cooked until puffy, cut open and stuffed with filling. We ordered them from a street vendor on Paseo de la Reforma who stuffed them with beans, cheese and salsa. 

• Tlayuda.  A cracker thin tortilla topped with various garnishes. Our favorite was from a street vendor in Zocaló Square. It was spread with refried beans and topped with nopales, Oaxacan cheese and hot sauce. 

• Elote.  A grilled ear of sweet corn served on a stick. It’s covered in Mexican creama and garnished with cotija cheese, chili powder, and lime juice.  

• Chapulines.  Crispy fried grasshoppers. We had them on tacos, as a garnish to dishes, in bars mixed with peanuts and saw them sold in barrels as snacks with a squeeze of lime.

• Churros. Fried sticks of ridged dough covered in cinnamon sugar and served with dulce de leche, chocolate sauce or sweeten condensed milk.

Elsewhere in Mexico

From Mexico City's Día de los Muertos celebrations to Caribbean coastlines, colonial cities and Oaxaca's rich traditions, discover more of Mexico through these travel guides: 

Caribbean Mexico

Riviera Maya Travel Guide: Beaches, Cenotes & Mayan Ruins.  Discover the Riviera Maya's white sand beaches, turquoise waters, hidden cenotes, ancient Mayan ruins and vibrant culture along Mexico's Caribbean coast.

Tulum Travel Guide: Cenotes, Beaches & Mayan Ruins.  Explore Tulum's cliffside Mayan ruins, white sand beaches, hidden cenotes and jungle landscapes along Mexico's turquoise Caribbean coast.

Bacalar Travel Guide: The Lagoon of Seven Colors & Hidden Gems.  Discover Bacalar's Lagoon of Seven Colors, where turquoise waters, shallow sandbars and ancient stromatolites create one of Mexico's most remarkable landscapes.

Central Mexico

Mexico City Travel Guide: Neighborhoods, Food & Local Culture.  Wander through Mexico City's vibrant neighborhoods, local markets and cultural landmarks where centuries of history, cuisine and modern life converge.

San Miguel de Allende Travel Guide: Food, Art & Colonial Charm.  Stroll through San Miguel de Allende's cobblestone streets and historic plazas where cuisine, art and music bring one of Mexico's most charming colonial cities to life.

Southern Mexico

Oaxaca Travel Guide: Food, Mezcal & Cultural Experiences.  Immerse yourself in Oaxaca, Mexico's cultural hub for vibrant markets, artisanal mezcal, regional cuisine, scenic landscapes and centuries of tradition.

Puerto Escondido Travel Guide: Beaches, Surfing & Coastal Culture.  Escape to Puerto Escondido, a laid back surf town on Oaxaca's Pacific coast where palm lined beaches and sandy streets embody coastal culture.

For Next Time…

Having visited Mexico City for Día de los Muertos, we would love to return one day to celebrate the festivities in Oaxaca or some of the smaller pueblos around the country.

Mexico City Travel Guide: Neighborhoods, Food & Local Culture

A Mexican Metropolis

Mexico City is a sprawling metropolis where old meets new. It’s a vibrant cultural hub shaped by both contemporary Mexican influences and Mesoamerican heritage. Trendy barrios and historic centers are home to celebrated landmarks and world class museums. The city is a paradise for cuisine from street food vendors, bustling local markets and restaurants that celebrate Mexico’s rich culinary traditions.

La Roma 

La Roma was our home both times we visited in Mexico City. The neighborhood is lush with tree lined streets, tropical plants and blossoming flowers. Architecturally, it shares a mix of styles including Art Deco, Spanish Colonial and Contemporary. It’s a trendy area with boutique hotels, cute shops, cafes selling pan de dulce, mezcalerias and wide a range of restaurants. It’s home to millennials, American expats and dog owners. 

Parque Mexico.  An ovular shaped park in the heart of La Roma. Between the tall trees and Art Deco fountains, couples can be spotted romantically kissing on park benches, pet owners letting their well behaved dogs play freely and families enjoying long afternoons together. 

Avenida Amsterdam.  An ovular avenue offset from Parque Mexico. We spent our mornings walking along the central boulevard admiring the nature, architecture and dogs while window shopping and looking for cafes and restaurants to eat at. 

Mercado Medellin.  A traditional Mexican market in Roma with restaurants and aisles of vendors selling produce, seafood, meats, flowers, mole and more. We visited in the morning for breakfast and to shop for groceries. In the produce section, we bought nopales, squash flowers, poblanos, tomatillos, plantains, papaya and mangos. We walked through the seafood section admiring the fresh and exotic catches like red snapper, parrot fish and whole shark sitting on beds of ice. Further in, we watched butchers slice and tenderize hunks of beef as whole chickens laid along the counters and large pork rinds hung from racks. The edge of the market is a fragrant section with vibrant floral displays, colorful arrangements and potted succulents. 

La Abuelita.  A restaurant in Mercado Medellin with traditional Mexican breakfast dishes. We’ve come here twice on separate trips to Mexico City and tried their hurraches, huevos rancheros, chilaquiles and cafe de olla.

Centro Historico 

Centro Historico is the oldest neighborhood in Mexico City. We came here to sightsee along the narrow roads, visit landmarks and immerse ourselves in Mexican culture. 

Zocalo Square.  A massive public square in the Centro Historico and common place for cultural events, performances and street vendors. It’s flanked by the Catedral Metropolitana, Palacio Nacional and Grand Hotel. At its center is a large flag pole supporting the Mexican flag.

Catedral Metropolitana.  A historic cathedral at one end of the Zocalo Square built on top of and from the stones of Aztec temples and pyramids. Its facade has a symmetrical design with two grand bell towers, religious motifs and ornate patterns carved into the stone. An elaborately designed church with a terracotta tiled dome is attached to one side. Its interior is adorned with golden altars and sacristies, catholic statues, a massive organ system and sections with wooden pews. 

Palacio de Bellas Artes.  An art museum with an ornate stone exterior and gilded with a golden domed roof. Its interior is an Art Deco masterpiece with Aztec inspired ornaments, marble clad surfaces, geometric & organic elements. The museum features a multilevel atrium with frescos and murals, painted by Mexican artists. The most famous is El Hombre Controlador Del Universo, painted by Diego Rivera. A large fresco depicting the opposition of Capitalist and Socialist societies and the exploration of the planet. It was originally commissioned to grace the walls of Rockefeller Center in NYC but was destroyed due to its depiction of Lenin. Several temporary galleries branch off from the atrium with works created by Mexican artists.

Alameda Central.  The oldest public park in Mexico City just outside of the historic center along Paseo de la Reforma. There are often street performers and festivals held here.

Pyramid of Ehecatl.  An Aztec temple unearthed during the construction of Mexico City’s subway. The ruins are visible in the Pino Suarez station with an exhibit of its discovery and preservation. 

Gran Hotel Terraza.  A rooftop terrace at the grand hotel overlooking Zocolo Square, Catedral Metropolitana and Palacio Nacional. We watched the presidential guard lower the flag at sunset while sipping on mezcalitas. The hotel lobby is equally as impressive with one or the largest Tiffany glass ceilings in the world, creating a beautiful mosaic of colors.

Templo Mayor.  The ruins of Tenochtitlán, the Aztec city destroyed by the Spanish to build colonial Mexico City. A pathway leads through the ruins past several periods of its expansion to its center with a sunken pyramid, with two shrines on top, several ceremonial altars and a museum housing artifacts discovered in Templo Mayor. Plaques tell the story of its ceremonial purposes, expansion, destruction and preservation. 

• Temple Entrance. A platform featuring statues of snakes with well preserved heads, still baring red paint. 

• The Shrine of Huitzilopochtli.  A shrine at the top of Templo Mayor dedicated to the Mexica god of war. The platform was believed to have been used for human sacrifices and funerals.

• The Shrine of Tláloc.  A shrine at the top of Templo Mayor dedicated to the Mexica god of water. A painted statue of Tláloc holding a bowl for offerings is preserved at the front of the shrine. 

• The House of Eagles.  A platform and temple used by elite Mexicas to perform ritual ceremonies. Protected under a pavilion, the ceremonial sight features stone “banquettes” with bases decorated in ornately carved and painted hieroglyphs.

• Altar Tzompantli.  A alter building with its sides covered in stone carved skull, dedicated to the god of death. 

• Red Temple. A small temple with walls built from red stone circles and painted in various designs.

Templo Mayor Museum. A museum housing artifacts discovered at Templo Mayor including carved stone reliefs, statues, the remains of human sacrifices, stone masks, obsidian blades and jewelry. Some of the most important artifacts on display are: 

• Monolith of Tlaltecuhtli.  A giant stone monolith of one of the Aztec’s most important gods. Viewed as source of life, the god was often appeased with blood sacrifices and human hearts. 

• Coyolxauhqui Stone.  A giant round monolith of a dismembered Aztec goddess. It’s one of the largest intact artifacts discovered. 

• Mictlantecuhtli God of Death.  A clay statue of the skeletal looking Aztec god, with its arms extended and claw like hands. 

• Eagle Warrior. A clay statue of a warrior dressed like an eagle found in The House of Eagles.

• Turquoise Disk.  A small disk made with over 15,000 turquoise pieces depicting warriors.

Bosque de Chapultepec 

Bosque de Chapultepec is the city’s largest park and green space with forested areas and tree covered walkways. At is center is a lake with paddle and row boats, surrounded by vendors selling snacks, street style food, luchador masks and children’s toys. The park acts as a cultural hub with numerous museums and a historic hilltop castle. 

Museo de Arte Moderno.  A modernist and surrealist art museum with painting and pieces depicting Mexican heritage, culture and landscapes by artists like Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, Rufino Tamayo and José Clemente Orozco. One of Frida’s most famous works, Los Dos Fridas (The Two Fridas), is prominently on display. Some pieces, including Diego’s, Velorio o Dia de Muertos, are paired with a wooden orb containing an aroma of what’s pictured.

Museo Nacional de Antropología.  An anthropological museum dedicated to the ancient civilizations and cultures of Mexico. Exhibit halls are dedicated to each group including the Mexica, Aztec, Mayan, Zapotec and Teotihuacan. Artifacts of display include sacrificial stones, statues of gods, carved stelas, ball court rings, jade masks, golden breast plates, painted pottery, human remains and temple reproductions.  Some of the most important artifacts on display are: 

• The Aztec Sun Stone. One of the most famous and recognizable Aztec artifacts discovered, prominently displayed in the Mexica Hall. The complexly carved 12ft diameter stone monolith is often referred to as the “Aztec Calendar.” Baring elements of the calendar, it was used as a sacrificial alter for blood sacrifices.  

• Montezuma’s Headdress.  A replica of the Aztec ruler’s magnificent headdress made from turquoise, red and iridescent green feathers adorned with gold medallions. It’s located in the Mexica Hall. 

• Colossal Olmec Head.  One of the few colossal stone heads of an Olmec ruler discovered. It’s located in the Gulf Coast Hall.

• The Funerary Remains of Pakal The Great.  Referred to as one of the Mayan Empire’s greatest rulers. His funerary offerings including an elaborate mask, beaded jewelry and skeletal remains are displayed in a replica sarcophagus and jade. It’s located in the lower level of the Maya Hall.

• Tlaloc "Señor de la Lluvia."  A massive stone sculpture of the Aztec god of water surrounded by a fountain in outside of the museum.

Coyoacan 

Coyoacan is an authentic and historic neighborhood with a lively center, traditional markets, beautiful colonial era homes and many restaurants. It’s famous as the birthplace and home to Frida Kahlo. 

Centró de Coyoacan.  The central plaza and park is the heart of the neighborhood. It’s a place for all ages and generations to gather, where street performers put on a show, mariachis serenade diners and vendors sell handicrafts, street food, cotton candy and firework poppers. In the middle of the park is a fountain with coyotes playing, they are the symbol and namesake of the neighborhood. Flanking the center is a handicrafts market, a historic cathedral and many restaurants serving traditional Mexican cuisine. 

Mercado Artisanal.  A two level market with stalls of vendors and artists selling alebrijes, calaveras, textiles, books, leather goods and home decor. There are even a few stalls to get tattoos and piercings. 

Mercado San Juan.  A market, very similar to Mercado de Medellin in La Roma, albeit slightly larger in size. Locals come here to shop for produce, meat, spices and home goods, tourists for souvenirs and everyone comes for its food stalls and restaurants.

Casa Azul.  Cayocan is the birthplace and home to many renowned artists, most notably Frida Kahlo. We visited her family home, Casa Azul, named after its vibrant blue painted exterior. While here, we toured her gardens, art studio and many rooms within her house. The museum displayed her artwork, clothes, diaries and braces while explaining the story of her life. Purchase tickets ahead of time on Viator in order to secure a reservation. Once inside, purchase a photography sticker for $30 Pesos. 

Xochimilco

Xochimilco is an ancient Aztec canal system built around floating gardens. It’s best known today for its narrow waterways, colorful gondolas and lively  atmosphere. The canals are a place to fiesta and enjoy a leisurely afternoon while learning about Aztec culture and the haunting legend of La Llorona.

A Fiesta on the Canals

We started our tour at Embarcadero de Cuemanco, one of the main canals in Xochimilco. The canal was lined with dozens of colorful and vibrant gondolas, called Trajineras, and surrounded by a market of shops, restaurants and bars. Before embarking, we picked up cervezas and snacks for our journey. We then met our guide, Maria, at our Trajinera named, Feliz Cumpleaños, fitting for Devin’s birthday. Maria and our rower were ready for us with snacks, music, mezcal and tequila! 

Rest Stops along the Canals 

As we set off, the rower gradually navigated us through the canals using a long wooden stick with occasional stops at various bars for cocktails and restroom breaks. We made 3 stops:

• First at Don Pino, a bar and snack shop. We of course had margaritas

• Second at Chinampa Onkali, where we saw axolotls (cute amphibious salamanders) and had lunch including blue corn quesadillas and tacos. 

• Third at Micheladas el Yogui, an excellent bar with cocktails and shots served in clay pottery. We even brought the pottery home.

Mezcal & Mariachis 

Throughout the tour, not only did we get a little tipsy but we got to see beautiful nature and learn about the Aztec history and construction of the canals. Our rower even let us try guiding the Trajinera! Maybe it was the alcohol but we soon after drifted off course. Towards the end, a Trajinera with a Mariachi band pulled up and serenaded our group with a few songs!

Tips for Visiting Xochimilco

Hire a Guide. Guides can be hired from any of the docks in Xochimilco, however wanting to be a part of a group, we booked ahead of time through Airbnb Experiences with several other travelers. 

Pronunciation.  Xochimilco is pronounced: So-Chee-Mill-Co.

Traffic.  Plan for traffic if booking a tour. It took us an hour and a half to reach Xochimilco from La Roma.

Buy Snacks.  Buy food and drink to enjoy on the boat from the nearby market. Timing.  The best time to come is between 12-1pm when its busy and most festive. Plan to ride in canals for minimum of 2 hours. 

Cash Only.  Everything in Xochimilco is cash only. This includes:

• Cerveza:  20 Pesos

• Cocktails: 50-100 Pesos

• Bathrooms: 5-10 Pesos

• Mariachi Band: 200-400 pesos (dependent on negotiation, quantity of songs and number of people on board)

Teotihuacán 

Teotihuacán is an ancient city with pyramids, ruins, murals and artifacts that predate the Aztecs by over 1,000 years. One of the most popular ways to view the ruins is by hot air ballooning overhead as the sunrises followed by exploring them on foot.

Sun Rise Over Teotihuacán. We booked a sunrise hot air balloon tour from Mexico City to Teotihuacán, a longtime dream that began with a 4am pickup and an early arrival at Sky Balloons Mexico. While checking in, we sipped hot cocoa and watched dozens of vibrant balloons inflate and ignite in the dark. As dawn approached, balloons lifted off one by one. Soon after, we climbed into our basket, drifting gently upward as the sun rose over the hazy landscape, glowing like a brilliant balloon in the sky.

Ballooning Over Teotihuacán.  Floating toward Teotihuacán, we shifted altitudes above the Pyramid of the Sun as colorful balloons filled the air. From above, the Avenue of the Dead and surrounding ruins slowly came into focus, entirely empty and eerily serene before the park opened. We descended over the avenue toward the Pyramid of the Moon and landed softly in a nearby field, celebrating with a champagne toast. Back on the ground, we enjoyed chilaquiles and tropical fruit while overlooking the ruins and balloons floating overhead.

Exploring Teotihuacán

There are many notable sights to see throughout the ancient city. We were able to explore several of them throughout our visit: 

The Avenue of the Dead.  A 1.5 mile long plaza flanked by the Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon as well as many smaller pyramids and stone platforms. Many vendors line up selling obsidian sculptures, howling noise makers and other items. 

The Pyramid of the Sun.  The largest pyramid at Teotihuacán located along the center of the Avenue of the Dead. It faces west overlooking the north and south ends of the avenue. 

The Pyramid of the Moon.  The second largest pyramid at Teotihuacán located at the north end of The Avenue of the Dead. It faces south looking down the entire avenue. 

Palacio de Quetzalpapaloti.  A well preserved palace with stone carvings, painted walls and ruins of ancient rooms. 

Mural del Puma.  A well preserved mural of a cougar on the east side of the Avenue of the Dead halfway between the pyramids of the sun and moon. 

Plaza Oeste.  A plaza along the south west end of the Avenue of the Dead with underground layers of a stepped pyramid, serpent heads and ruins of multiple temple buildings. 

Tips for Visiting Teotihuacán

Getting Here.  Teotihuacán is 1 hour 30 minutes from Mexico City. The best way to get here is with a tour group or by renting a car. The advantage of booking with a tour group is that it takes away the hassle of transportation; the disadvantage is that your time is limited. We booked on Get Your Guide. 

Wear Layers.  It’s chilly when arriving before sunrise but quickly heats up during the afternoon. 

Climbing.  The pyramids have been closed for climbing on since 2020.  

Mexican Cuisine 

Mexican cuisine is one of our favorites in the world. While in Mexico City, we made sure to try as many authentic dishes and favors that we would. 

• Chapulines.  Crispy fried grasshoppers. We had them on tacos, as a garnish to dishes, in bars mixed with peanuts and saw them sold in barrels as snacks with a squeeze of lime. 

• Tlayudas.  A cracker thin tortilla topped with various garnishes. Our favorite was from a street vendor in Zocaló Square. It was spread with refried beans and topped with nopales, Oaxacan cheese and hot sauce. 

• Gordita.  Thick corn masa tortillas cooked until puffy, cut open and stuffed with filling. We ordered them from a street vendor on Paseo de la Reforma who stuffed them with beans, cheese and salsa. 

• Churros. Fried sticks of ridged dough covered in cinnamon sugar and served with dulce de leche, chocolate sauce or sweeten condensed milk.

• Molcajete.  A traditional stone motar heated over fire and filled with protein like steak, chicken or chorizo. In our case, seitan, tofu or shrimp. The protein is topped with salsa, radish, avocado, cheese and draped in grilled nopales.

• Chilaquiles.  Fried corn tortillas simmered in salsa verde or salsa rojo and topped with fried eggs, avocado, onion, cheese, cream and cilantro.

• Mole.  One of Mexico’s most famous and traditional sauces. It’s typically dark brown and made from a mixture of chili peppers, nuts, dried fruits and spices like cinnamon, star anise and cumin. We had this over cheese enchiladas in Coyoacan. 

• Café de Olla.  Coffee brewed with cinnamon and star anise. It’s typically sweetened with raw cane sugar and served in a clay mug.

• Tequila.  The famous liquor made from the sap of the blue agave cactus. We tried it neat and in cocktails. 

• Mezcal.  A smoky version of tequila. We often drank it neat from candle vase typically seen in churches. 

• Pulque. A yeasty and fermented drink made in the dying core of the agave cactus.

Places to Eat & Drink

We ate and drank at a range of restaurants, cafes and bars across the city, enjoying Mexican cuisine, cocktails, snacks and street food. 

• Café de Tacuba.  An elevated restaurant in the Centro Historico popular amongst locals. Stop in for mid afternoon coffees and fresh pastries. 

• SOM.  A cocktail bar with exclusively Mexican spirits like mezcal, tequila and pulque. We ordered the piñacati & pulquerita. 

• Matuche.  A mezcal bar with mezcals from all across Mexico. Order a flight to sip on or let the bartender make recommendations. 

• Tlachiquero.  A dive bar specializing in mezcal. Join locals in sipping on mezcal from miniature clay jugs and bowls garnished with tajin and orange slices. 

• Taqueria Orinoco.  A popular taqueria for a Mexico City staple, midnight tacos! Open until the early morning hours, we stopped in late at night after a few drinks for avocado tacos and cheese quesadillas accompanied by a spread of salsas. The food is simple, delicious and inexpensive.

• Churrería el Moro.  A cafe on the corner of Parque Mexico serving churros and chocolaty drinks. Order the warm “Español” for dipping or cold “Mexicano” for sipping.

• Pasillo de Humo.  A restaurant serving traditional Oaxacan cuisine including: smoky homemade salsas, charred tortillas, cricket tacos, a caramelized pumpkin dessert and a cart with a variety of mezcals.

• Fonda Fina.  We came herefor Devin’s birthday dinner. The restaurant makes classic Mexican dishes with a contemporary twist and creative cocktails.

• Veganion.  A fully vegan restaurant offering Mexican staples traditionally made with meal like a molcajete, tacos al pastor, carne asada and a sope. 

• Restaurant Ave Maria.  A higher end restaurant serving classic Mexican meals like enchiladas in mole, chile relleno with queso and tres leches served on traditional clay dishes 

• Los Danzantes.  Oxacan style and traditional Mexican dishes, located in Coyoacán. 

  Degú Condesa.  A brunch spot with bold coffee and dishes with Mexican flavor like scrambled eggs cooked in salsa verde or a grilled nopal with a fried egg surrounded by a poblano creama sauce.

• Chiquitito Café.  We learned about this cafe from a Duolingo Podcast on Mexico City. It’s a dog friendly cafe with a range of light pastries, breads and coffee.

Tips for Dining Out

• Reservations.  Make reservations at restaurants ahead of time to guarantee a spot.

• Tipping. Tipping 10% is standard. Tip anything more for exceptional service. 

• Cash. Carry cash, especially for street food and at the markets. 

• Restrooms. Carry small coins to use public restrooms, which usually cost 5 pesos. As with many toilets in Central America, don’t flush used toilet paper. It often clogs the plumbing.

• Tap Water.  Avoid drinking tap water due to risk of contamination unless it’s been boiled or filtered.

• Clothing.  Avoid wearing shorts or sandals. This is seen as beachwear and out of place. 

• Mezcal.  Mezcal is much more popular than tequila. 

Where to Stay

Roma Art Deco Apartment.  A private two bedroom Airbnb in the heart of La Roma steps from Parque Mexico. The home is a cozy spot to relax after a full day exploring the city. 

Casa Aimee.  A guest house with several rooms in a family’s home in Roma Sur. The hosts were wonderful and accommodating, allowing us access to their shared kitchen, rooftop dining area and washing machine. They even prepared us barista style coffees every morning. Reserve on Booking.

Getting Around

Traffic. Traffic in Mexico City is notoriously congested. The best recommendation is to plan for extra time when getting around.

By Uber.  Ubers were our preferred method of getting around because of how inexpensive and consistent they are. We could travel from the airport to La Roma for $20 or across town for $10. 

By Metro.  The city also has an extensive subway system. Though we didn’t ride it, it looked to be a cheap and effective way of getting around.

Elsewhere in Mexico

From ancient ruins and Caribbean beaches to mezcal producing villages and Pacific surf towns, explore more of Mexico beyond the capital through these travel guides:

Caribbean Mexico

Riviera Maya Travel Guide: Beaches, Cenotes & Mayan Ruins.  Discover the Riviera Maya's white sand beaches, turquoise waters, hidden cenotes, ancient Mayan ruins and vibrant culture along Mexico's Caribbean coast.

Tulum Travel Guide: Cenotes, Beaches & Mayan Ruins.  Explore Tulum's cliffside Mayan ruins, white sand beaches, hidden cenotes and jungle landscapes along Mexico's turquoise Caribbean coast.

Bacalar Travel Guide: The Lagoon of Seven Colors & Hidden Gems.  Discover Bacalar's Lagoon of Seven Colors, where turquoise waters, shallow sandbars and ancient stromatolites create one of Mexico's most remarkable landscapes.

Central Mexico

Day of the Dead in Mexico City (Día de los Muertos) Travel Guide.  Experience Day of the Dead in Mexico City through cultural traditions, lively celebrations and vibrant ofrendas honoring loved ones and ancestral heritage.

San Miguel de Allende Travel Guide: Food, Art & Colonial Charm.  Stroll through San Miguel de Allende's cobblestone streets and historic plazas where cuisine, art and music bring one of Mexico's most charming colonial cities to life.

Southern Mexico

Oaxaca Travel Guide: Food, Mezcal & Cultural Experiences.  Immerse yourself in Oaxaca, Mexico's cultural hub for vibrant markets, artisanal mezcal, regional cuisine, scenic landscapes and centuries of tradition.

Puerto Escondido Travel Guide: Beaches, Surfing & Coastal Culture.  Escape to Puerto Escondido, a laid back surf town on Oaxaca's Pacific coast where palm lined beaches and sandy streets embody coastal culture.

For Next Time…

Watch a Lucha Libre Match.  See the colorfully masked wrestlers perform at the Arena Coliseo. 

Visit Puebla.  One of Mexico’s “pueblos magicos,” a colonial town with historic buildings covered in tiled walls and bright colors. 

See more Sights.  The Palacio Nacional, Museo Somaya, Casa y Studio Luis Barrigan and Universidad Nacional Autónoma de Mexico.

Hike the Volcanos.  Three volcanos with hiking trails outside the city including Iztaccihuatl, Nevado de Toluca and Popocatepetl. 

Bacalar Travel Guide: The Lagoon of Seven Colors & Hidden Gems

Bacalar, The Lagoon of Seven Colors

The Bacalar Lagoon is freshwater lake known as the “Lagoon of Seven Colors,” named for the various shades of blue, green, aquamarine and deep navy. The lagoon is home to colonies of stromatolites, islands with migratory birds, narrow waterways, shallow sand bars, deep cenotes and mangrove forests. It’s the main source of drinking water for the region and beach like retreat for locals and visitors. 

Bacalar Lagoon Tour

The best way to experience the lagoon, its vibrant shades of blue and various sights is by boat. We took a “booze cruise” with Amir Adven Tours Bacalar, visiting three sand bars, tiny islands and deep cenotes. The tour included unlimited beers and tequila cocktails like tequila sunrises, tequila sodas and palomas. Half way through, the crew prepared a floating surfboard with fresh mangos, watermelon, bananas and avocado toast for us to snack on.  

Canal de los Piratas.  A channel used by the ancient Mayans for trading and by pirates for surprise attacked on Bacalar. The tour brought us to a sandbar at the channel’s delta where we swam and drank in the shallow waters. The canal itself was off limits. 

Stromatolites.  Also known as living rocks, the lagoon is a habitat for the planet’s earliest life form, stromatolites. These organisms create mud-like mounds and structures throughout the lagoon. Sections are quartered off to protect the nurseries growing within. 

Cenote de la Bruja.  A cenote measuring over 100 meters deep with jet black water. It’s forbidden to swim in and feared to be cursed by a Mayan woman who was killed during the Spanish conquest. 

Cenote Esmerelda. A large cenote along the edge of the lagoon named for its emerald hued water. It’s one of the main sources that fills the lagoon with freshwater. Beautiful hotels and balnearios line its shore while sand bars with anchored boats and surround its outer edge.

Island of Birds.  A small tree covered island in the middle of the lagoon home to colonies of migratory birds. We visited before many had finished their seasonal migration to the lagoon.

Protecting the Lagoon.  The lagoon is a protected reserve home to fragile ecosystems of stromatolites, mangrove forests and migratory birds. It also serves as a major source of freshwater for the region. Sunblock and single use plastic are banned everywhere in the lagoon. 

Los Rapidos de Bacalar

The Rapids of Bacalar are anarrow river between the Bacalar and Xul-Ha Lagoons home to stromatolites, mangroves, tiny fish and marine birds. We visited a “lagoon club” with access to the river via a boardwalk and kayaks with a seafood restaurant and tables overlooking it.

Drift Snorkeling.  Follow the boardwalk along the river and jump in at its end. Let the currently gently carry you downstream. With snorkels, peer underwater to admire the river banks lined with layers of bubbling stromatolites. 

Lagoon Kayaking.  Rent kayaks and paddle further upstream to a small lagoon. Spend time here floating around and enjoying the peaceful surrounding before lazily paddling back downstream. 

Tips for Visiting: 

• Getting Here.  Hire a taxi from the city center, about 20 minutes away. Taxis should cost no more than 200 pesos one way.

• Admission. 200 Pesos. It includes access to the boardwalk, river, facilities and use of a life jacket.

• Single Kayaks.  200 Pesos for one hour. 

• Lockers. 50 Pesos + 50 Pesos deposit for the duration of your visit. 

• Conservation.  Do not step on or touch the stromatolites. They may look like rocks but ate delicate ecosystems of microorganisms. 

Eco Parque Bacalar

Eco Parque Bacalar is an elevated boardwalk leading through a nature park with mangroves, wetlands and access to the Bacalar Lagoon. From the boardwalk, we overlooked the blue hued lagoon, basked in the sunny rays and cooled off in its refreshing water. Admission costs 20 Pesos. 

Balneario Ejidal Mágico Bacalar

Balneario Ejidal Mágico Bacalar is a “lagoon club” mostly popular with locals. We bought a day pass and rented sun lounges overlooking the lagoon while sipping on Mexican cerveza. Families of locals picnicked under the thatched picnic tables, children slid down small waterslide, people jumped off docks into the lagoon while others lounged in overwater hammocks.

Bacalar Pueblo

Bacalar is a small town centered around the Bacalar Lagoon. The pueblo has a very local atmosphere, less visited than the main tourist hubs of the Rivera Maya. The quiet streets are colored in murals depicting local life and culture. The area has a storied history dating back to the Mayan Empire, Spanish conquest and days of pirate attacks. 

Zocalo Square.  Bacalar’s main square is paved with stone walkways, small playgrounds, a craft market, verdant trees and bushes cut into the shape of roosters. Its surrounding streets are lined with restaurants, cafes, hostels, municipal buildings and the fort. In the late afternoon, vendors arrive with carts selling ice cream, churros, sliced mangos, grilled meats, elote, juices and coffee. 

Marquesitas.  A wafer thin crepe-like roll stuffed and topped with a range of sweet or savory toppings. They’re a commonly sold at competing food carts in the Zocalo Square.

Fort San Felipe.  A historic star shaped fortress with a steep moat and cannons pointing towards the lagoon, built to defend the city against pirate attacks, common during the Spanish colonization. Inside is a small museum dedicated to the history of Bacalar, its importance as a trading post for the Mayans, the brutal Spanish conquest and continual pirate raids. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Cafe Arúgula.  A cafe with health foods, smoothies, agua frescas, coffees and kombuchas. Its shaded outdoor deck is a comfy spot to spend the morning with floor cushions, hammock chairs and low sitting furniture. It’s a popular place with digital nomads and European expats. 

La Burguesía del Pueblo.  A second floor restaurant overlooking the Zocalo Plaza. Come here for Mexican appetizers, burgers and cocktails. 

Fruta Bar Bacalar.  A cocktail bar merging Mexican and Caribbean flavors in a warm and natural space decorated with warm lights, dim candles, tropical plants, dried palm fronds and wooden furniture. It’s connected to a sushi restaurant. We ordered the Spicy Love and The Tiki. 

• Spicy Love. A cocktial made with tequila, mezcal, habanero and grapefruit juice. 

• The Tiki. A cocktial made with mezcal, aperol, passion fruit, pineapple and agave honey.

Panaderia La Tataleta.  A local bakery with traditional Mexican pastries like conchas, medialunas, orejas and Rosca de Reyes. The later is a pan dulce served on 3 Kings Day, an ovular bread ring with colorful candied fruits as decoration. 

Getting Around

By Bus.  Arrive and depart from Bacalar by ADO Bus.  Buses regularly connect Bacalar to various destinations along the Rivera Maya and Yucatán. The lagoon is located about 2 hours from Tulum.

On Foot.  The city center is walkable with hotels, restaurants and sights all within 20 minutes of each other.

By Taxi.  Taxis are fair and affordable in Bacalar. They’re the easiest way to see sights further along the lagoon. Flag one down, negotiate a price and request their WhatsApp for future rides.

Elsewhere in Mexico

From the tranquil waters of Bacalar to ancient Maya ruins, bustling cities and surf towns along the Pacific, discover more of Mexico through these travel guides:

Caribbean Mexico

Riviera Maya Travel Guide: Beaches, Cenotes & Mayan Ruins.  Discover the Riviera Maya's white sand beaches, turquoise waters, hidden cenotes, ancient Mayan ruins and vibrant culture along Mexico's Caribbean coast.

Tulum Travel Guide: Cenotes, Beaches & Mayan Ruins.  Explore Tulum's cliffside Mayan ruins, white sand beaches, hidden cenotes and jungle landscapes along Mexico's turquoise Caribbean coast.

Central Mexico

Mexico City Travel Guide: Neighborhoods, Food & Local Culture.  Wander through Mexico City's vibrant neighborhoods, local markets and cultural landmarks where centuries of history, cuisine and modern life converge.

Day of the Dead in Mexico City (Día de los Muertos) Travel Guide.  Experience Day of the Dead in Mexico City through cultural traditions, lively celebrations and vibrant ofrendas honoring loved ones and ancestral heritage.

San Miguel de Allende Travel Guide: Food, Art & Colonial Charm.  Stroll through San Miguel de Allende's cobblestone streets and historic plazas where cuisine, art and music bring one of Mexico's most charming colonial cities to life.

Southern Mexico

Oaxaca Travel Guide: Food, Mezcal & Cultural Experiences.  Immerse yourself in Oaxaca, Mexico's cultural hub for vibrant markets, artisanal mezcal, regional cuisine, scenic landscapes and centuries of tradition.

Puerto Escondido Travel Guide: Beaches, Surfing & Coastal Culture.  Escape to Puerto Escondido, a laid back surf town on Oaxaca's Pacific coast where palm lined beaches and sandy streets embody coastal culture.

For Next Time…

Ruins of Calakmul.  Calakmul was once one of the most populous and powerful Mayan cities in the Yucatán. Its ruins with pyramids, temples, ball courts, plazas and various structures are buried deep within the jungle near the boarder with Guatemala. We had a full day tour scheduled from Bacalar but had to cancel last minute due to food poisoning. It’s at top of our list next time we return to the Yucatán.  Book here!

Tulum Travel Guide: Cenotes, Beaches & Mayan Ruins

Tulum, Mexico

Tulum is a rapidly growing tourist town with luxury eco resorts, Mayan ruins and access to natural sights like the jungle, cenotes, lagoons and white sand beaches along the Caribbean Sea.

Barrio La Veleta 

We stayed in Barrio La Veleta, a jungleous and up and coming neighborhood of Tulum on the edge of town. It was our favorite part of the city with clothing boutiques, bike & scooter rentals, juice bars, co-working spaces, tattoo shops, cafes, restaurants, bars, trendy barber shops, mini markets and several Oxxo. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Cafe Si To.  A jungelous cafe with tropical plants, a tiny pool and live edge wooden furniture. Their menu offers dishes like chilaquiles, french toast, fresh fruit bowls and avocado toast. Being in Mexico, we each ordered the chilaquiles, one with verde sauce and the other with rojo! 

La Pebeta.  A cafe and bakery with Mexican breakfast dishes. We tried the green bowl made with cactus, spinach and egg whites cooked in a salsa verde and the “divorced eggs” two eggs served on corn tortillas with beans and cheese, covered in salsa verde and salsa rojo.

Tres Galeones.  A Mexican seafood restaurant and taqueria with a lush garden patio and interior that resembles a large wooden ship with port holes, a captains deck and nautical decor. Come here for a local beer like Corona or Pacifico and the seafood tacos and tostones like octopus, soft shell crab, baja style fish, fish al pastor and shrimp.

Panadería La Delicia y Abarrotes.  A local Mexican bakery with over a dozen types of pan dulces (Mexican pastries). We stopped by here twice to buy breakfast and desserts.

Velvet Tulum.  A self serve ice cream shop with a mix of classic and unique soft serve flavors like chocolate, vanilla, pistachio, taro and grape + charcoal. The ice cream is sold by weight and can quickly add up in price.

Parque del Jaguar

Parque del Jaguar is a national park and jungle reserve along the Caribbean Sea with access to the Tulum Ruins, multiple public beaches, restaurants, hotels and beach clubs. The park is open daily from 9am-5pm for a small fee. It’s easily navigable on foot, by bike or public shuttle. 

Parque del Jaguar Mirador.  A large wooden staircase across from Playa Mangle in Parque del Jaguar with views of the lush jungle reserve and Caribbean Coast.

Tulum Hotel Zone

Tulum’s hotel zone is a vibey and tropical neighborhood along the Caribbean with eco-hotels, luxury hostels, beach clubs and nightly outdoor parties. It’s a popular designation with millennial travelers, digital nomads and influencers. Swimsuit clad people ride bicycles and scooters down the palm lined road to white sand beaches and jungleous eco-resorts sculpted from natural materials

Beaches & Beach Clubs

Playa las Palmas.  A powdery white sand beach with shallow aquamarine water perfect for sunbathing, swimming and body surfing. The beach has several restaurants, hotels and bars with lounges and beds for rent. It’s one of the public beaches, accessible through the Parque del Jaguar.

Playa Santa Fe.  A white sand beach with access to the Tulum Ruins. Many boat tours with seaside views of them leave from here.  

Playa Pescadores.  A white sand beach with restaurants, bars and beach clubs. Many snorkeling and fishing tours leave from here. 

Playa Mirador.  A small beach with a large rocky outcrop. The water is rocky but it’s a fun spot to sunbathe and watch the pelicans dive into the water. It’s nearby several beach front hotels and bars.

Ramon’s at Pocna Tulum.  A beachfront restaurant at Playa las Palmas with palm tree shaded beach beds and a sand floor dining room overlooking the beach. Come here for the tropical cocktails like piña coladas or margaritas and Mexican dishes like tacos, ceviche and guacamole.

Club de Playa Zazil-Kin.  A palm covered beach club with lounges and tables in the sand at Playa Pesadores. Come here for the grilled seafood, coconut shrimp, ceviche, Mexican beers and tropical cocktails. 

Mivida.  A beachfront hotel, restaurant and bar with a thatched patio, beach beds and white sand beach. 

Mayan Ruins 

Tulum Ruins. The Tulum Runis are large archeological sight with Mayan structures perched on a cliff overlooking the Caribbean Sea. The complex is surrounded by a stone wall and encompasses multiple well preserved temples and crumbing buildings. The city was thought to be a central trading post for the Mayan empire.

• El Castillo.  The largest and most grand building of the complex with a temple atop of a stone staircase and flanked by two smaller temples. It resides at a high point near the cliff overlooking the Caribbean Sea.

• El Templo de los Frescos.  An intricately designed temple covered in Mayan carvings, figures of gods and red painted imprints of human hands. 

• Templo del Dios Del Descendente.  A stone temple with angled walls and a motif above the doorway of a god descending from the heavens.

• Templo del Dios Del Viento.  A stone temple with several alters on a cliff overlooking the Caribbean. The temple is dedicated to Kukulcan, the God of Wind. 

• Casa del Cenote.  A small stone house built on top of a Cenote. It was thought to be the village’s main source of fresh water.

• La Muralla Defensa y Límite.  The defensive stone wall surrounding three sides of the village with a narrow passageway to enter and exit.

• Pro Tip.  Arrive early, by 8am, to avoid the massive crowds and large tour groups.

Coba Archaeological Site

Coba is a sprawling Mayan city within the lush jungle comprised of multiple acropolises, stone pyramids, temples, platforms, ball courts and stelaes or vertical stone tablets carved in hieroglyphs and depictions of Mayan priests, royalty and warriors. 

Group Nohoch Mul.  An acropolis with two stepped pyramids, a ball court, several small platforms and unearthed ruins. 

• Nohoch Mul Pyramid.  The tallest pyramid in the Yucatan with stepped sides and a central staircase leading to an alter on top. Its crumbling front is fully unearthed while its other side remain buried beneath lush vegetation.

• Observatorio Astronómico de Cobá.  A very well preserved astronomical pyramid with rounded sides, four levels and twenty steps representing the Mayan calendar. It’s fully unearthed and can be viewed on all sides.

• Juego de Pelota.  A well preserved ball court with stone rings centered on two angled walls opposite each other. Each wall has six alters for Mayan royalty to watch from. Inlaid in the floor are carvings of a human skull and beheaded jaguar. 

Group D.  An acropolis with temples, platforms, a pyramid and overgrown Mayan road. 

• Structure 5.  A stepped platform and small temple with the crumbling remains of rounded columns. It’s one of the few ruins that can be climbed on to explore its construction and ceremonial purposes. 

• Conjunto Pinturas.  A multilevel stepped pyramid with rounded corners and a central staircase leading to an alter at its top. A few smaller temples and platforms with rounded columns and stelaes surround its base.

Group Macanxoc.  The furthest acropolis in the ancient city with a plaza home the ruins of temples, platforms and stelaes. 

• Nohuch Mul Plaza.  A plaza with a walled and stepped temple surrounded by several smaller platforms, temples, altars and stelaes.

• Macanxoc Temple.  A partly uncovered pyramid-like temple that can be climbed onto. Its top half and depth are buried under the jungle. At its base is a covered stelae. 

Group Coba.  A grand acropolis at the entrance of Coba with a ball court, platform, pyramid and climbable temple. 

• Juego de Pelota.  A Mayan ball court with two intact stone rings centered on its angled walls. Two stone skulls are inlaid into the side of the pyramid at one end of the ball court. 

• La Iglesia.  A massive complex with a platform supporting a towering pyramid that rises above the jungle canopy and a climbable temple with a tunnel beneath its steps and alters at its top. Intricate stelaes with Mayan hieroglyphs and images are on display throughout the complex. 

Tips for Visiting Coba

• Getting to Coba by Oriente Bus.  The bus schedule is only confirmed on the day of. Arrive when the bus station opens to buy tickets. Tickets are one way and cash only. It takes less than an hour to reach Coba. The bus stops about 10 minutes on foot from the Coba ticket office. 

• Getting to Coba by Collectivo. Shared taxis vans depart from the corner of Calle Osiris Norte and Cancun-Chetumal, a block from the bus terminal. Vans depart between 9-10am. Fares cost 100 pesos per person.

• Returning to Tulum by Collectivo.  Flag down a collectivo on the main road in the town of Coba. Drivers will depart once the van is full of passengers. The wait can take up to 2 hours. Fares cost 100 pesos per person. 

• Tickets.  If entering on foot, there are two entry tickets. An infrastructure fee costing around 100 pesos and the entrance fee costing around 95 pesos. 

• Rent Bike.  The best way to get around is by renting a bike. With a bike, the entire complex can be seen in about 3 hours. Bikes are available to rent just after entering the park for around 65 pesos. 

• Restoration Work. Many of the stelas are undergoing restoration and covered in plastic tarps. 

• Access.  No pyramids can be climbed on. Some temples and platforms have can be climbed on. 

Cenotes

Cenotes de Sac Actún. Sac Actún is the world’s largest known network of underground rivers, caves and cenotes. We snorkeled through 3 flooded cenotes and connecting chambers within the cave system filled with stalactites and stalagmites. As we swam, the subtle current pulled us through the cool fresh water, bats flew overhead and fish swam beneath us.

• Open Air Cenote.  We descended a wooden staircase and waded into the water of an open air cenote, one without a ceiling. Light streamed in from above as water slowly dripped from stalactites into the clear blue water, echoing off the surrounding stone walls. From here, a series of caves lead deeper into the underground maze. 

• Semi-Open Cenote.  From the first cenote, we swam through a passageway into a semi open chamber with a hole in the ceiling and a tree growing through it. The Mayans referred to this as the tree of life, connecting the underworld to the living world above. 

• Enclosed Cenote.  We snorkeled back to the first cenote and entered a narrow passageway covered in stalactites hanging just above our heads. Looking under water, stalagmites pointed up at us and dark flooded passageways lead deeper into the earth. The main chamber was a truly magnificent spectacle with a fully enclosed ceiling dripping in thousands of stalactites and dangling roots from trees above. It felt like swimming inside of a geode. 

• Getting Here from Tulum.  We looked into biking here (way too far), taking a bus (there is no bus), joining a tour or renting a car (far too expensive). We hired a taxi for a half day, costing 2,000 Pesos, to pick up us, bring us to the cenote, wait for us and drop us off at the beach in Tulum. 

Rio Secreto. We descended through a cenote into a flooded cave system, trekking through knee deep water and swimming through deeper sections. Headlamps illuminated the water in a blue glow, revealing tiny shrimp and catfish. The dark, wet cave was mesmerizing, with ever-changing chambers filled with ancient flow stones, marine fossils, spear like stalactites, nubby stalagmites and crystalline columns.

• Jungle Adventure.  After exploring the caves, we biked along gravel trails through the jungle to a zip-line park, spotting a venomous coral snake and a bright blue butterfly along the way. There, we rode four zip-lines through narrow gaps in the trees and rappelled 10 meters into a cenote. 

• No Phones or Cameras Allowed.  Trying to keep the experience a “secret,” and charge for photos, the operator does not allow phones or cameras in the park. It allowed us to disconnect and take in the beauty of the cave and experience.

• Book the Rio Secreto Plus Tour.  We booked the full day Rio Secreto Plus Tour. It included a guided tour of the cave system, biking through the jungle, zip lining, repelling, all the gear for the activities, round trip transportation from Tulum and a buffet style taco bar for lunch. 

• Request the “Supreme Trail”.  In order to accommodate the 500 to 1,000 daily visitors, we were divided up into small groups of 12. Each group was staggered and assigned different a different trial through the caves. Of the five trials, we were assigned the “Supreme Trail.” Allowing us to experience a little of everything within the cave system. 

Gran Cenote.  A popular open air cenote just outside of Tulum. We swam and snorkeled around the cool fresh water, entering narrow caves and large chambers with massive stalactites and colonies of bats. Light streams through the blue water, illuminating the deep caves extending further into the abyss while families of turtles and tiny fish swim alongside snorkelers. A dark cave connects the Gran Cenote to Baby Cenote, a smaller open air cenote with light blue water and an island in its middle. 

Tips for Visiting Gran Cenote 

• Getting Here.  Gran Cenote is located outside of Tulum. It takes 30 minutes to bike to from the city center. 

• Hours.  Entry times fluctuate. Arrive at opening to avoid the crowds.

• Tickets. Entry fees cost 500 pesos per person, cash only. Admission includes snorkel masks. 

• Lockers.  Lockers are available for rent for around 30 pesos. 

• Self Guided.  The cenote can be explored without a guide but its required to wear a life jacket.

Where to Stay

We stayed at an Airbnb in Barrio La Veleta, We had a second floor condo with a kitchen and private roof deck to ourselves. It was the perfect escape, merging both nature and city.

Getting Around

By Bike.  The most affordable way to explore Tulum is by bike! There are rentals across the city charging between 100-200 pesos per day. We rented from La Veleta Rental Bike, charging only 100 pesos per day.

By Taxi.  Taxis are available across the city. Rates around 200 pesos to get across town. The safest location to hire a taxi is a street stands called Sitio de Taxi. Always negotiate price before getting in.

By Bus.  The ADO Bus is the best way of getting around the Yucatan with routes connecting Tulum to nearby and regional cities. Book tickets online ahead of time.

Elsewhere in Mexico

From the turquoise waters of Tulum to Mexico's vibrant cities, culinary capitals and Pacific coast, continue exploring the country's diverse landscapes and cultures through these travel guides:

Caribbean Mexico

Riviera Maya Travel Guide: Beaches, Cenotes & Mayan Ruins.  Discover the Riviera Maya's white sand beaches, turquoise waters, hidden cenotes, ancient Mayan ruins and vibrant culture along Mexico's Caribbean coast.

Bacalar Travel Guide: The Lagoon of Seven Colors & Hidden Gems.  Discover Bacalar's Lagoon of Seven Colors, where turquoise waters, shallow sandbars and ancient stromatolites create one of Mexico's most remarkable landscapes.

Central Mexico

Mexico City Travel Guide: Neighborhoods, Food & Local Culture.  Wander through Mexico City's vibrant neighborhoods, local markets and cultural landmarks where centuries of history, cuisine and modern life converge.

Day of the Dead in Mexico City (Día de los Muertos) Travel Guide.  Experience Day of the Dead in Mexico City through cultural traditions, lively celebrations and vibrant ofrendas honoring loved ones and ancestral heritage.

San Miguel de Allende Travel Guide: Food, Art & Colonial Charm.  Stroll through San Miguel de Allende's cobblestone streets and historic plazas where cuisine, art and music bring one of Mexico's most charming colonial cities to life.

Southern Mexico

Oaxaca Travel Guide: Food, Mezcal & Cultural Experiences.  Immerse yourself in Oaxaca, Mexico's cultural hub for vibrant markets, artisanal mezcal, regional cuisine, scenic landscapes and centuries of tradition.

Puerto Escondido Travel Guide: Beaches, Surfing & Coastal Culture.  Escape to Puerto Escondido, a laid back surf town on Oaxaca's Pacific coast where palm lined beaches and sandy streets embody coastal culture.

Riviera Maya Travel Guide: Beaches, Cenotes & Mayan Ruins

The Riviera Maya

The Riviera Maya is a tropical destination that exudes all around vacation vibes with white sand beaches, warm turquoise water, beachfront hotels & resorts. At the same time, it’s an adventurous destination with jungleous terrain, marine reserves, cenotes and historic sights including Mayan pyramids, temple complexes and colonial old towns. 

Cancún

Cancún is popular tourist town with resorts, cruise docks, late night clubs, white sand beaches and warm turquoise waters. It’s the entry point to the Yucatán Peninsula with many access to sights and cities along the Mexican Riviera. We’ve visited here a few times over the years for weekend getaways and a wedding. 

Cancun Centro.  A safe and central neighborhood near the ADO bus station, close to the beach and the ferries to Isla Mujeres. It has less touristy atmosphere than the hotel zone with boutique hotels, high end hostels, Mexican restaurants, tequila bars, cute cafes, small plazas and tropical parks.

Hotel Zone. The hotel zone of Cancun is the most touristy neighborhood of the city with white sand beaches hugging the turquoise sea, craft and souvenir markets, restaurants, bars and nightclubs. As its name implies, its where many large hotels, resorts and condo buildings are located. Many have access to the beach, offering public access with chair and umbrella rentals.

Things to Do

Visit The Beach.  All along the coast of Cancún, powdery white sand shores hug the warm turquoise water. Many hotels, resorts and apartment buildings in the hotel zone have access to the beach front. Most have public access with chair and umbrella rentals. The most accessible beach in the Hotel Zone is Playa Chacmool. 

Shop for Handicrafts.  Colorful and traditional Mexican handicrafts make for an amazing keepsake. Shop the stalls at Flea Market Cancun in the Hotel Zone for items like alebrijes, luchador masks, maracas, ceramics, beach towels and clothes.

Places to Eat & Drink in Cancún

El Socio Naiz Taquería.  A cocktail bar and taqueria with elevated tacos served on blue, yellow or pink corn tortillas with a variety of traditional and exotic toppings. We ordered vegan tacos, the Bob Marley and El Remiks. The first came with sautéed hibiscus flowers mixed with onion and carrot, topped with dollops of chipotle aioli and guac. The second was made with two types of spiced vegan meats topped with an onion jam. We paired these with tequila and mezcal cocktails!

Taqueria El Mexicano.  A basic and inexpensive taqueria with Mexican staples like tacos, chips and salsa, guacamole and margaritas. 

Lorenzillo’s.  A high end restaurant with a beautiful wooden interior and deck overlooking the lagoon. We came here for a lobster dinner. 

Restaurante Natura.  A vegan breakfast cafe with a lush patio and furniture carved out of tree stumps. Order the huevos rancheros and chilaquiles. 

Ah Barbaro. A restaurant specializing in inexpensive tacos. We tried the fish tacos and grilled raja tacos with a Corona and lime.

Chichén Itzá

Chichén Itzá  is large Mayan archeological complex with a steeped pyramid, the ruins of temples, a massive ball court, an astronomical observatory and well preserved hieroglyphs. 

El Castillo.  The massive and well preserved stepped pyramid at the center of Chichén Itzá. We circled all 4 sides of it, taking in its grandeur and marveling at its intricate designs. 

Gran Juego de Pelota.  The largest Mayan ball court ever discovered. It’s flanked by two temples and “bleachers” decorated in carvings depicting how the game was played. 

Tzompantli.  A stone platform designed with walls covered in carvings of human skulls. 

Warriors' Temple.  The ruins of a large temple with stacked stone columns, overgrown platforms and Mayan hieroglyphs. 

Cenote Ik Kil.  A cenote nearby Chichén Itzá with swimmable blue waters. We came here to cool off in the refreshing oasis. Little fish swam around us as we floated in the water listening to the echo of other swimmers bounce off the vine covered stone walls around us.

Tips for Visiting Chichén Itzá

Getting to Chichén Itzá. The ADO Bus is the best way to get to Chichén Itzá. Buses leave from Cancun most mornings, returning in the mid afternoon. The bus takes between 3-4 hours allows about 4 hours to explore the ruins and nearby denotes. 

Wear Sun Protection.  Wear sunscreen or bring and an umbrella to protect from the sun. 

Stay Hydrated.  Bring water to stay hydrated. It gets very hot! 

Isla Mujeres

Isla Mujeres is a sleepy island off the coast of Cancun with a small town, hotels, beaches and tour companies offering snorkeling tours. It’s accessible by ferry or boat. 

Punta Sur

Punta Sur is the southern point of Isla Mujeres and most eastern point of Mexico. The tip of the island is lined with nature trails, cliffside caves, jagged rock formations and many free roaming iguanas.

Punta Norte

Punta Norte is a tourist town with restaurants, bars, hotels, souvenir shops, tour companies, street vendors and white sand beaches on the north side of the island. 

Miguel Hidalgo.  A pedestrian street with restaurants, bars, souvenir shops and tour agencies in Punta Norte. 

Playa El Cocal.  A sand beach with shallow turquoise water and sand bars stretching hundreds of feet into the water. Come here for snorkeling, swimming and sun bathing. The best snorkeling is beneath the wooden bridge leading to the MIA Reef Hotel. 

Playa Centro.  A white sand beach in Punta Norte near the ferry terminal with restaurants, hotels, beach rentals and tour companies. 

Snorkeling & Island Tour

We booked a snorkeling tour to explore Isla Mujeres and the crystal clear waters surrounding the island.  Our first stop brought us to Barquito Hundido, a snorkeling point with many tropical fish and underwater sculpture garden. 

From here, we moored offshore near Playa El Cocal on Island Mujeres where we swam, snorkeled and ventured onto shore. We were given a couple hours for beach time, shopping and exploring the island. 

Afterwards, we boated to Playa Tiburon, a beach and restaurant named for the shark that is kept in a fenced area off shore. We ate lunch grilled barracuda and drank margaritas for lunch. Back on the boat, we continued to boat around the island’s vibrant blue waters while jamming out to Bachata music and drinking tequila. 

We booked with Isla Mujeres Tours. 

Places to Eat & Drink in Isla Mujeres

Coconut Vendors.  Having a craving for coconuts, we stopped by a street vendor selling coconut paletas (popsicles) and another selling fresh coconuts. We drank the coconut water then had it husked open and the “meat” prepared with hot sauce and lime juice.

Green Demon. A beach front restaurant with umbrellas, light bites and cocktails.

Lancheros Mexican Seafood.  A seafood restaurant in the pier near the ferry terminal. We came here for dinner before catching the last ferry back to Cancun.

Acantilado. A small outdoor restaurant at Punta Sur. We came here for ceviche and cerveza.

Getting Around Isla Mujeres

By Ferry.  Take the ferry from the Puerto Juarez Terminal in Cancun. We booked roundtrip tickets with Ultramar for around $25. 

By Golf Cart.  The easiest way to get around the island is by golf cart. Rent one from Coco Cart Rental near the ferry terminal. Prices are negotiable. A half day rental can cost anywhere from $50 to $100.

Fishing in Puerto Natales

Visit the seaside village of Puerto Natales and hire a local fisherman to arrange a fishing tour. Our group boarded a fishing boat for a half day tour and caught several fish including red snapper, bonito, porgie, sea bass and a 44 inch barracuda. The captain filleted the barracuda and mixed it with lime juice, habanero, tomato and cilantro to create one of the freshest ceviches we’ve ever had. Of course, there were Mexican beers and tequila on board.

Playa del Carmen 

Playa del Carmen is a very touristy beach town along the Rivera Maya with large resorts, adventure parks, beach clubs and ferries to the island of Cozumel. We took a day trip here to meet family, eating and drinking our way across the city center. 

Quinta Avenida.  A very touristy pedestrian street in the center of town with tequila shops, t-shirt vendors, silver jewelry stores, souvenir malls with aisles of colorful trinkets, the expected tourist traps, tour operators and chain restaurants. The lengthy street is a hub for activity with thousands of vacationers, live performers, shop owners calling out “hola amigo” and  colorful Mexican banderas draped overhead. 

Fundadores Beach.  A large white sand beach in the city center with restaurants, hotels and beach bars. It’s a popular spot for tourists and locals to enjoy the Caribbean sun and bright blue water. 

Parque Los Fundadores.  A treelined park between the Fundadores Beach and Quinta Avenida with singing musicians, dancing performers, mariachi bands and Mayan rope swingers.

Places to Eat & Drink in Playa del Carmen

Other than visiting the beach and shops, Playa del Carmen has a decent food scene with restaurants, cafes and bars all around town. 

Mexico Loco.  An authentic and energetic Mexican restaurant in the center of town with dishes like table-side guacamole, mixed seafood ceviche, cheese quesadillas and nachos covered in mole. They serve the largest margaritas we have ever drank, local beers and overflowing shots of tequila. While dining, dancing performers and guitar strumming musicians serenaded us with song. 

La Bodeguita del Medio.  A restaurant and bar that feels more like Cuba than Mexico. Bottles of Cuban rums line the bar adjacent to a humidor with boxes of Cuban cigars. The walls and warmly lit lights are covered in hand written notes and signatures from years of previous guests. We sat at the long wooden bar sipping on Havana Club while a Cuban brass band performed on stage and couples danced salsa behind us.

El Gober Marisqueria.  A seafood restaurant with freshly caught fish, live lobsters and Caribbean dishes. We ordered the patacones and a seafood tower, a poke style dish layered with tuna, shrimp, octopus, white fish, tomato, avocado, cucumber and avocado surrounded by a pool of spicy sauce.

The Lost Tiki.  A tiki bar in a thatched restaurant with colorful tiki mugs. To be honest, the drinks weren’t the greatest but the pan fried edamame served in a bowl of umami sauce helped make up for it. 

ARCANA.  A vibey outdoor cafe surrounded by tropical plants and decorated with pink and green accents. We tried the coconut tahini latte and the rose pedal tea.

Places to Stay in Cancun 

Having visited multiple times, we’ve stayed in a beach front apartment, millennial style hostel and resort.

Enigmatic Hotel Experience Cancun.  A high end hostel with spacious and comfy private rooms. The hotel has its own restaurant, rooftop bar, co-working space, tattoo parlor, outdoor lounge and pool. They host daily events and activities and have a sister hotel down the street, Nomads Hotel & Rooftop Pool Cancun.

Carisa y Palma Apartments. An apartment complex in the Hotel Zone with vacation rentals. Our room had a balcony overlooking the Caribbean and city. It’s located on Playa Chacmool with beach access.  Book here! 

Dreams Riviera.  An all inclusive resort just outside of the fishing village of Puerto Morales. We’re not usually the resort type but came here for a wedding. The restaurants, facilities and activities made it the perfect place to celebrate and relax. Book here!

Getting Around 

Airport Bus.  From the Cancun Airport, take an ADO bus to the Cancun Bus Terminal for 140 pesos per person. It drops off 10 minutes on foot from the city center. Take a taxi from here to elsewhere in the city. 

ADO Bus.  The ADO bus is the best way to get around the Yucatan Peninsula with terminals in most cities and towns with buses departing regularly. They’re safe, affordable and reliable!

Good to Know:  Ubers cannot pick up from the airport. Taxis cost an exorbitant amount.

Elsewhere in Mexico

From the Caribbean coastline of the Yucatán Peninsula to colonial cities, Indigenous traditions and Pacific surf towns, discover more of Mexico beyond the Riviera Maya through these travel guides:

Caribbean Mexico

Tulum Travel Guide: Cenotes, Beaches & Mayan Ruins.  Explore Tulum's cliffside Mayan ruins, white sand beaches, hidden cenotes and jungle landscapes along Mexico's turquoise Caribbean coast.

Bacalar Travel Guide: The Lagoon of Seven Colors & Hidden Gems.  Discover Bacalar's Lagoon of Seven Colors, where turquoise waters, shallow sandbars and ancient stromatolites create one of Mexico's most remarkable landscapes.

Central Mexico

Mexico City Travel Guide: Neighborhoods, Food & Local Culture.  Wander through Mexico City's vibrant neighborhoods, local markets and cultural landmarks where centuries of history, cuisine and modern life converge.

Day of the Dead in Mexico City (Día de los Muertos) Travel Guide.  Experience Day of the Dead in Mexico City through cultural traditions, lively celebrations and vibrant ofrendas honoring loved ones and ancestral heritage.

San Miguel de Allende Travel Guide: Food, Art & Colonial Charm.  Stroll through San Miguel de Allende's cobblestone streets and historic plazas where cuisine, art and music bring one of Mexico's most charming colonial cities to life.

Southern Mexico

Oaxaca Travel Guide: Food, Mezcal & Cultural Experiences.  Immerse yourself in Oaxaca, Mexico's cultural hub for vibrant markets, artisanal mezcal, regional cuisine, scenic landscapes and centuries of tradition.

Puerto Escondido Travel Guide: Beaches, Surfing & Coastal Culture.  Escape to Puerto Escondido, a laid back surf town on Oaxaca's Pacific coast where palm lined beaches and sandy streets embody coastal culture.

For Next Time…

Having visited pockets of the Yucatán, primarily centered around the Rivera Maya, we plan to venture westwards to the colonial cities of Merida, Valladolid and Campeche as well as Isla Holbox on the Gulf of Mexico. 

Patagonia Argentina Travel Guide: Perito Moreno Glacier, El Calafate & Fitz Roy

Patagonia, Argentina

Patagonia is an awe inspiring and remote corner of the world spanning southern Argentina. Its dramatic landscape is covered in vast glaciers, turquoise lagoons and snow capped mountains. It’s an adventurous destination to view glaciers, kayak glacial rivers, hike mountain trails, spot native wildlife, see prehistoric cave paintings, sample wild berries and local brews.

Lago Argentino

A large bright blue and aquamarine lake created by glacial and snow melt. Its piercing blue color is hard to look away from. It changes in tone with the sunlight and shadows of clouds. There are multiple lookouts in the city.

Mirador Lago Argentino.  A public beach and lookout over the vibrant blue expanse of Lake Argentina. 

Punto Panorámico.  A roadside overlook on a hill with panoramic views of Lake Argentina and El Calafate. 

La Piedra Mirador.  A breathtaking roadside lookout over Lake Argentina, distant snow covered mountains and the Patagonian landscape. It’s an easy spot to see on the way to the Pierto Moreno Glacier.

El Cafafate 

El Calafate is a town on the shores of Lake Argentina and a hub for adventurous activities in Patagonia. The region is famed for its icy glaciers, snow covered mountains, vibrant blue lakes and hiking trails.

City Sights

Avenida del Libertador.  The main avenue that passes through the center of El Calafate with restaurants, cafes, breweries, tour companies, outdoor outfitters and souvenir shops. The city center is a charming place to walk around with tall coniferous trees, friendly roaming doggies, rugged antique vehicles, sticker covered campers, country cabins and cottages built from stone, wood and street metal. 

Paseo De Artesanos Jorge Echeverria.  An artisan market with vendors selling handmade items including crystal and guanaco bone jewelry, stained glass ornaments, carved stone and wooden objects, knitted hats, ceramics and mate straws. It’s open daily from 5-10pm. 

Glaciarium.  A museum dedicated to glaciology, the study of glaciers. The exhibits focus on the Patagonian ice fields, their history and exploration, its glaciers, their formation, movement, landscape and the effects of climate change. The building itself is inspired by the faceted edges of glaciers with a cafe overlooking Lago Argentina. A free shuttle leaves from the city center every half an hour between 12-6pm. 

Glaciobar.  An underground ice bar at the Glaciarium with -20C temperatures. The walls, floor, bar and glasses are all made of ice with various ice sculptures built throughout including an igloo, throne, eagle and bench. Thermal ponchos and multiple drinks are included with admission. We ordered a local favorite, Fernet with Coke and Gin and Tonics made from Patagonian Gin. 

Nature Sights

Reserva Laguna Nimez.  A nature reserve and bird sanctuary encompassing the wetlands along Lake Argentina. We walked the 3km trails and boardwalks with views of the lake, lagoons, colorful foliage and species of birds including flamingos, ibises, swans and ducks. Bring or rent binoculars to spot birds. 

El Calafate Berry.  El Calafate is named after the summertime wild berry that grows across the region. It looks similar to a blueberry but tastes more like a tart plum. It grows on large bushes with spiky arms all across the landscape. They’re usually ready for harvest in January and February. Unable to have them fresh in late December, we tried them frozen in a desert, as a jam on  toast and within an alfajore.

Punta Walichu.  An archeological sight with 4,000 year old cave paintings created by some of the first indigenous peoples of Patagonia. The red and ochre colored painting line the base of the cave depicting hand prints, people dancing, dotted spirals, indiscernible shapes, guanaco and puma foot prints. There is a section with reproductions from the cave and of other areas of Patagonia. The narrated tour walks through various points along the cave with breathtaking views of lake Argentina and the mountains on the other side of it.

Places to Eat & Drink

Cerveza Patagonia. A Patagonian brewery popular across Argentina and Chile for its regional beer. They have a taproom on Avenida del Libertador with their standard beers and specialty ones on tap and a full food menu. We shared 3 pints: 

• KM3.  A mildly hoppy beer. 

• Munich Helles.  A light and easy drinking beer with a slight honey and peach flavor. 

• Amber Lager.  Their staple beer available in cans across the country. It has a light and flavorful taste. 

La Zorra.  A local brewery with a range of craft beers, snacks and shareable dishes. Try multiple half pints to sample their brews: 

• Forest Fruits.  Light with a pine and peachy flavor. 

• Amber Ale.  Hoppy with bitter and chocolaty flavor. 

• Passion Summer.  Light and refreshing. 

La Zaina Cocina Patagónica.  A restaurant serving elevated Patagonian dishes and bottles of wine from their vineyards in Mendoza and Patagonia. We came for their seafood dishes, trying the lake trout and sea bass. 

Shelby Mercado de Gin y Cervezas.  A quiet liquor store and bar in a cabin like building with local beers and gins. We came here for gin and tonics made with Aconcagua and Patagonia Dry Gin de Acá, very floral and herbal Patagonian gins. We sipped on them from their second floor balcony. 

La Oveja Negra Calafate.  A gin bar and beer garden with all types of local snacks and dishes to share. We stopped in for their El Calafate Pisco Sours, made with El Calafate liquor. 

Acuarela Helados Artisanal.  An ice cream shop, chocolate store and cafe with a display of dozens of colorful ice creams including local flavors like El Calafate and Dulce de Leche. 

Getting Around El Calafate 

From the Airport.  Take a public shuttle to the city center. The buses depart several times per day based on flight schedules for 11,000 pesos per person. Alternatively, hire a ride from one of the taxi stands for 33,000 persons. Uber is not available. 

From the Bus Station.  The Omnibus station is a 20 minute walk from the city center. Alternatively, hire a taxi from the line out front. Rides take 5 minutes and should cost 5,000 pesos. 

By Bus.  Regional buses to many of the natural sights, regional towns and further distances in Argentina and Chile are reachable by bus. Several companies sell tickets from the Omnibus Terminal just outside of town. We booked with Bus Sur and El Chaltén Travel, two of the more reputable and well reviewed bus companies. 

On Foot.  The city center and surrounding areas are easily walkable.

Perito Moreno Glacier

The Perito Moreno Glacier is a vast ice flow famed for its 70 meter tall leading edge. It’s observable from several boardwalks viewpoints and by boat on Lake Argentina. 

Glacier Lagoon Tour 

One of the best ways to experience the glacier is by boat. We boated across the icy and turquoise waters of Lake Argentina, past large icebergs towards the vast face of the glacier. The craggily and jagged wall of ice towered in front of us, ranging in pale to dark blue tones with deep crevices and ice caves. We booked with Southern Spirit. The tour lasted about an hour.

Walk the Boardwalks 

From the boardwalks and lookouts, we got to experience the stunning beauty of the glacier, the glacial lagoons, forested terrain and mountainous landscape. Entry to the park includes access to the boardwalks and scenic overlooks. We explored most of the routes, enjoying the views and listening to the creaking and cracking of the glacier. With patience, we watched as several small chunks of ice fell from the glacier into the lake. Later, a large piece calved off, creating a thunderous noice and large splash in the icy water below. 

Trails and Routes.  The glacier park has several kilometers of boardwalks with panoramic views overlooking of the glacier from various heights and angles. Each one can we walked significantly faster than the signs suggest. 

• Blue Trail.  1.1km boardwalk connecting the boat launch to the yellow trail.

• Yellow Trail.  A 0.6km boardwalk with some of the best views and overlooks of the glacier. This one is justifiably the most popular. 

• Purple Trail. A 0.6km boardwalk leading through the forest with views of the glacier. It connects to the Yellow Trail. 

• Red Trail. A 1.1km boardwalk that leads along the south face of the glacier with lookouts along the way. It’s an easy walk and less busy than the other trails. 

• Green Trail.  A 0.6km boardwalk through the forest. It was closed due to high winds when we visited. 

Getting Here.  We booked a shared shuttle to and from El Calafate to the glacier with Bus Sur at the El Calafate Bus Terminal. The glacier park is about 1 hour and 30 minutes away. 

Kayak La Leona River

The Leona River is a milky blue river flowing between Lake Viedma and Lake Argentina created by glacial melt. We kayaked 18km downstream, through multiple rapids, narrow channels and winding bends. Along the way, we spotted Guanaco wandering the hills and chasing each other. The last 5km were the most difficult, paddling against strong winds and eddies.

Midway through, we hiked across a sedimentary landscape. Through the layers of sediment, we looked back millions of year in time to periods when the land was once covered by ocean, overgrown with a tropical forest, active with volcanos, home to the dinosaurs and most recently covered in glaciers during the last ice age. Along the hike, we spotted petrified wood, fossilized dinosaur bones, hardened lava rocks, ancient corals and corals, guanico and puma tracks and views of the La Leona River. 

We booked on Viator with Kayak Santa Cruz. The guided tour provided kayaks, wetsuits, jackets, life vests, water shoes and dry bags.

El Chaltén

A small mountain town and hub for hiking in Patagonia’s Glacier National Park. It has a very cute yet rugged atmosphere with colorful buildings, wooden houses, corrugated metal cabanas and views of Fitz Roy. The main street is lined with cafes, bakeries, restaurants, breweries, tour companies, outdoor outfitters, hostels and hotels.

Paseo de los Artesanos.  A geodescent dome with about a dozen vendors selling handcrafted and artisan products like colorful windbreakers, ceramic mugs and pots, wood burned kitchenware, jewelry, knitted clothes and accessories. I bought wool vest with yarn made by artisan’s one artisan’s mother. 

Cerro Fitz Roy

Cerro Fitz Roy is one of Argentina’s most iconic natural landmarks. It’s the tallest mountain in the Glaciers National Park with jagged vertical peaks, snow covered slopes, glaciers and lagoons. We took a day trip here and hiked to Laguna de los Tres with views of its grand peaks. 

Hiking Fitz Roy

From the ticket office, the hike is 20km round trip and takes an average of 7 hours to complete. Maintaining a quick pace without many stops, we were able to hike the trail in 5 hours roundtrip with 30 minutes at the lagoon. 

Ticket Office.  The ticket office is located at the north end of town with direct assess to the Fitz Roy Trail. At the time, day tickets cost 45,000 Argentine Pesos.  

Mirador Rio de las Vueltas.  The well maintained dirt trail follows a gradual incline until reaching the first lookout. The viewpoint offers panoramic views of the blue river below, lush valley, green forest and  snowcapped mountains. 

Fitz Roy Trail Fork.  From the first lookout, the trail continues past shrub-land and pockets of forest until reaching a fork.

• Left leads towards Laguna Capri and a shoreside campground. The trail crosses slightly more rugged terrain with large rocks, dense shrubs and wooden planks through wetlands. After passing the dark colored lagoon, some of the first views of Fitz Roy and the glaciers become visible. 

• Right leads towards Mirador Fitz Roy. The trail crosses rocker terrain with near constant views of Fitz Roy to a cliffside lookout of the iconic mountain. 

Poincenot.  Both trails meet here, a tree covered campground. At this point, the trail becomes even rockier and rugged, even crossing a wooden foot bridge over glacial streams. The water is clean enough to drink from! The last hour of the hike is the most difficult. It follows a steep incline over large rocks, loose gravel and snowy pockets to reach the ridge of Laguna de Los Tres. 

Laguna de Los Tres.  After hours of hiking, we arrived at the postcard worthy lagoon at the base of Fitz Roy. The ridge offers views of the deep blue lagoon, jagged towering peaks and icy glacier. A short walk down the ridge leads to the lagoon’s edge with equally as grand views. While relaxing, we even spotted a Fox running along the rocks. 

Tips for Hiking Fitz Roy

• Food & Water. Bring food, snacks and a liter of water, refill in the streams if needed. 

• Overnight vs Day Trip. Stay the night in El Chaltén and wake up early to begin any of the hikes. Alternatively, break the hike up over two days camping in the park. We took a day trip here, arriving at 11am and departing at 6pm. When hiking Fitz Roy, we had to maintain a quick pace in order to maximize time at the lagoon and return to the bus station before the last departure. 

• Weather. Check the weather before hiking and pack the proper gear. It’s dangerous to hike in cold and wet conditions. Cloudy conditions can fully cover the mountain views.

Getting to El Chaltén

We took a day trip to El Chaltén from El Calafate with Chaltén Travel, a bus company offering m daily trips back and forth. We took the earliest bus at 8am and last bus back at 6pm. The trip lasts about 3 hours one way. The scenic drive passes Lake Argentina, Lake Viedma, the Leóna River and a mountainous landscape with valleys covered in small green and yellow bushes. We spotted wild Guanaco and Rhea birds along the route. 

Pro Tip.  Book tickets ahead of time. Reserve a seat between 1-4 for upper deck front row views of the landscape! 

Good to Know.  Bus terminals have a small usage fee ranging from 1,000 - 3,000 Argentinian Pesos. 

When to Visit Patagonia 

We visited Patagonia from mid to late December when the days are at their longest, lasting nearly 18 hours. The days are warm and the nights are chilly. The landscape was coming to life with green bushes, flowering shrubs and budding wild berries. Locals recommended returning in late January through February to try fresh El Calafate berries and to see the most ice calving at the Perito Moreno Glacier. 

Location Specifics

Exchanging USD.  You need to have near perfect bills free of tears, markings or a tattered appearance when exchanging for pesos or paying.

Cash vs Card.  Cash is king however many places do accept card. There is often a fee ranging up to 20% for using card. There is an occasional 10% discount for paying in cash. 

ATM.  Regardless of banks, cash machines will only allow foreigners to request 2,000 pesos per day (about $2 USD) with fees costing close to 15,000 pesos. 

Tipping.  Tipping 10% is customary. Tips are cash only. 

Prices.  The prices of tours, cost of accommodations and meals are very expensive in Patagonia. 

Tickets Fees.  Ticket fees and entrance tickets often cost up to 3 times more for foreigners. 

Bookings.  Tours and accommodations book up in advance. We booked everything 2 to 6 months ahead of time. 

Elsewhere in Patagonia 

From the glaciers and granite peaks of Argentine Patagonia to Chile’s Torres del Paine and remote wilderness roads, continue exploring the greater Patagonian region:

Patagonia Chile Travel Guide: Torres del Paine, Hiking & Road Trips.  Journey into Chilean Patagonia to experience Torres del Paine National Park, legendary trekking circuits, glacier-fed lakes and remote road trip routes.

For Next Time…

Ushuaia and Antarctica.  At the bottom tip of South America is the world’s most souther city, Ushuaia. We plan to visit and take a ship across the tortious Drakes Passage to the white continent, Antartica. 

Patagonia Chile Travel Guide: Torres del Paine, Hiking & Road Trips

Patagonia, Chile

Patagonia is an awe inspiring and remote corner of the world spanning southern Chile. Its rugged terrain is covered in snow capped peaks, glacial lagoons, turquoise waterfalls and fjords. It’s an adventurous destination to road trip through with scenic lookouts, cave systems and mountainous hikes. 

Torres del Paine National Park

Torres del Paine is a national park centered around three vertical white granite peaks at the base of a turquoise mountain lagoon. The vast landscape is comprised of jagged mountains, snowy glaciers, glacial lakes and lagoons, winding rivers with misty waterfalls and wildlife. It’s one of the most popular national parks in Patagonia with campgrounds, multi day treks and breathtaking natural sights. 

Sendero Mirador las Torres. A 16km roundtrip trail to the three iconic towers and glacial lagoon. It’s the most accessible hike in the national park and perfect for single day trekkers. Keeping a comfortable pace, we were able to hike from the welcome center to the lagoon in about 2 hours and 30 minutes. 

Mirador las Torres Trailhead.  The trailhead is reachable after a 1km hike from the welcome center across relatively flat terrain. The trail is well marked, with orange signs attached to red posts and two check points along the way, Refugio Chileno and Guardia Parques.

• Refugio Chileno.  From the trailhead, the route ascends and descends along the river for 3km before reaching Refugio Chileno. Along the way, we spotted condors circling above, blossoming flowers and bushes with El Calafate berries. Midway we stopped to admire the views at Paso de los Vientos, a panoramic lookout with sweeping views of the valley, forested mountainsides and snowcapped peaks. Refugio Chileno serves as many hikers “base camp” with a restaurant, small shop and campground of hillside tented platforms available for rent. We stopped here for a celebratory beer on the trek back.  

• Guardia Parques.  For 3km after passing Refugio Chileno, the trail follows the river, crisscrossing it on wooden footbridges. After the third bridge, Puente Limit, the trail leads into a semi-hilly stretch of forest along the base of the mountains.

Guardia Parques.  A clearing in the forest opens up to the second checkpoint, Guardia Parques. It’s here where the granite peaks of Torres del Paine only come back into view. It also marks the most rigorous point of the hike. From here, the final 1km of the trail leads over steep terrain, loose gravel and slippery boulders until coming upon the mirador! There is a ranger station and restroom at the Guardia Parque. The trail leads left to the mirador and right to continue further into the park. 

Mirador las Torres.  After hiking 8km, the reward was worth the Paine! The iconic view of the three white granite towers and turquoise lagoon came fully into view at the Mirador. We sat on the rocks, admired the inspiring landscape and watched as streams of water from the melting snow and ice ran down the cliff into the lagoon. 

Getting Here.  Drive to the Guardería Laguna Amargato show your ticket and passport. The entrance is 1 1/2 hours from Puerto Natales and less than 10 minutes from Laguna Amarga. From here, drive 15 minutes to the Torres del Paine Welcome Center with a cafe, restrooms and shop. After passing through the welcome center, walk to the Torres de Paine Trail Head 1km away to begin the hike. 

Tips for Visiting Torres del Paine National Park:

• Tickets.  Park tickets can be purchased 2 months in advance online with Pases Parques Nacionales. Tickets are valid for 3 or 7 days. 

• Hours. The park opens at 7am. Entry to the trail closes at 3pm and the mirador closes at 4pm. Begin hiking early to avoid the crowds. 

• Timing.  We started the trek at 9am arriving to the lagoon at 11:30am. On the descent, the trail was packed with hundreds of hikers in line walking up the mountain.

• Weather.  Check the weather ahead of time and only hike on a clear day to maximize chances of seeing the granite towers in all their splendor. 

• Difficulty.  It’s a long hike and difficult at times but not severely rigorous. We saw young children and met people over the age of 60 completing the hike. 

Puerto Natales

Puerto Natales is a Patagonian port town. It’s central location makes it easy to explore the region from. The city is comprised of modern cabins, converted shipping container buildings, wood tiled homes and sheet metal houses. The main street, Manuel Bulnes, is home to restaurants, cafes, bakeries, bars, grocery stores, outdoor outfitters and tour companies.

Patagonian Road Trip

We road tripped between Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine National Park, stopping at scenic lookouts, glacial lagoons, waterfalls, caves and hiking trails. 

Cueva del Milodon.  A massive cave once inhabited by prehistoric humans and the Milodon, a now extinct giant ground sloth. A trail leads to the cave from the visitor center, setting the stage with informational signs explaining the geology and formation of it, insights on the humans that lived within it 14,000 years ago and the former megafauna of the area, including the Milodon, Sabertooth tigers and Patagonian Panthers. The mouth the cave is grand, measuring 200 meters deep, 80 wide and 30 tall. A trail leads into it past archeological dig sights, dangling stalactites and a panoramic overlook. The cave is located 30 minutes by car from Puerto Natales. 

Mirador Grey.  A series of roadside lookouts above Lago Grey, a greenish grey colored glacial lagoon surrounded by snowcapped mountains and lush hillsides. The miradors are located 1 hour from Cueva del Milodon. 

Mirador Rio Serrano.  A scenic lookout on the bluffs over the Rio Serrano Valley with views of the winding blue river and on a clear day, the mountain peaks of Torres del Paine. There is a small tourist town below with hostels, hotels and glamping sights. It’s often the entry point for most people staying outside of Torres del Paine National Park. The lookout is located 15 minutes from Mirador Grey.  

Guarderia Grey.  A welcome center and restaurant with access to Sendero Lago Grey, a trail leading to the Grey Lake. We took the trail to foot bridge across the Rio Pingo and to a peninsula with a black sand and pebble beach, far away views of the glacier and blue floating icebergs. Boat tours depart near the Hotel Lago Grey up to the leading edge of the Grey Glacier. The welcome center is located 30 minutes from Mirador Rio Serrano. 

Salto Chico Falls.  A turbulent and eclectic blue colored waterfall on the Rio Paine accessible by a wooden boardwalk from the parking lot. The boardwalk leads through the lush hillside along the volcanic stone banks of the river to reach the viewpoint. The trail takes less than 30 minutes round trip. There is a hotel, restaurant and spa here for people looking to stay the night in a natural and luxurious setting. The waterfall is located 30 minutes from Guarderia Grey.

Mirador Lago Pehoé.  An incredibly beautiful roadside lookout over Lago Pehoé with scenic views of the dark blue colored lake surrounded by rugged mountains. From here, a trail leads to Mirador de Condor with panoramic views. In view of the Mirador is an island with hotels and hotels. The lookout is located less than 10 minutes from Salto Chico Falls. 

Salto Grande Waterfall.  A misty aquamarine waterfall contrasted against black volcanic cliffs in a channel between two glacial lakes. The waterfall viewpoint is a 15 minute walk from the parking lot past lush hillsides with green bushes, flowering plants and mountainous views. The trail continues a further 5km to Mirador Cuernos with a lookout over Nordenskjöld Lake. Beware of high winds that can each speed of 120kmh. The waterfall is located less than 15 minutes from Mirador de Condor.

Mirador Nordenskjöld Lake.  A roadside lookout over a lagoon and lake with mountains on its opposite side. Between the mountains is a cascading glacier with blue ice and fresh snow. It was at this time that the rain started to subside. Soon afterwards, birds began flying around and guanaco started appearing on the tops of the hills, curiously looking around in all directions. The mirador is located 15 minutes from Salto Grande. 

Cascada Rio Paine.  A cascading and angled waterfall in the Rio Paine with views of the mountains. The roadside lookout is located 30 minutes from Mirador Nordenskjöld Lake.

Guardería Laguna Azul.  A blue mountain lake surround by grassy fields home to the region’s largest population of Guanaco. Along its shores are narrow black sand and pebble beaches, hiking trails and a van campground.  The lookout is located 15 minutes from Cascada Rio Paine. 

Laguna Amarga.  A milky blue lagoon with partial views of the Torres del Paine from outside of the national park. On the day of our roadtrip, clouds completely obscured the granite peaks however we saw an incredible view the following morning on our way to hike to their base. The lookout is located 30 minutes from Laguna Azul. 

Mirador del Lago Sarmiento.  A deep blue mountain lake surround by desert bushes and plants with views of the mountainous snow covered peaks in the distance. The lake is located on Ruta fin del Mundo 30 minutes from Laguna Amarga. 

Mirador Lago Figueroa.  A roadside lookout over a green lagoon at the base of tree and shrub covered hills. The lookout is located about 45 minutes from the lake and 30 minutes from Puerto Natales. 

White Snow.  In late December, super blooms of flowers emerge across the landscape. One of the most iconic is White Snow, a tiny white peddled flower with a yellow center that blooms by the millions, blanketing grass fields in a layer of white, imitating snow.

Driving in Patagonia

Driving in Patagonia was easy, granted we were driving during the warmer summer months with significantly more daylight than night. Regardless, there are different types of roads to be aware of when driving here. 

Ruta fin del Mundo (End of the World Route).  A vast highway leading through Patagonia to the southern tip of South America. Between Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine, the highway is well maintained with scenic lookouts and faster speeds than the asphalt and dirt back roads. 

Asphalt Roads.  The asphalt roads between Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine are the most dangerous due to clusters of deep pot holes. Drive slowly and be ready for evasive maneuvering.

Dirt Roads.  The dirt roads within Torres del Paine and between here and Puerto Natales are easy to drive on and regularly smoothed. Other than little bumps and clouds of dust, we had no issues. Keep distance between cars to avoid windshield chips. 

Pro Tip. When leaving Puerto Natales, depart with a full tank of gas. There are no gas stations outside of the city. 

Car Rental

One of the best ways to see Patagonia is on your own. Though expensive, having a car saved us from booking any costly tours and allowed us the freedom to move at our own pace. When in Puerto Natales, we rented a car and spent two days exploring the Torres del Paine National Park. We booked with Magallanes Rent-A-Car. We requested to book 6 months before arriving and paid a 50% despot 1 month before and the remainder at pick up. 

Chilean King Crab

Puerto Natales is famed in Chile for is seafood, specifically king crab. One of the best restaurants in town for king crab is Santolla. They serve entire king crabs and a range of dishes made from its meat. We savored 3 tapas style dishes: the crab legs cooked in a spicy white wine sauce, a king crab cake and scallops pil pil. To drink, a Patagonian gin & tonic and glass of Chilean Carmenere. The restaurant build from repurposed shipping containers, a nod to the port town’s shipping industry. 

When to Visit

We visited Patagonia from mid to late December when the days are at their longest, lasting nearly 18 hours. The days are warm and the nights are chilly. The landscape was coming to life with green bushes, flowering shrubs and budding wild berries. 

Location Specifics

Exchanging USD.  You need to have near perfect bills free of tears, markings or a tattered appearance when exchanging for pesos or paying.

Cash vs Card.  Cash is king however many places do accept card. There is often a fee ranging up to 20% for using card. There is an occasional 10% discount for paying in cash. 

ATM.  Regardless of banks, cash machines will only allow foreigners to request 2,000 pesos per day (about $2 USD) with fees costing close to 15,000 pesos. 

Tipping.  Tipping 10% is customary. Tips are cash only. 

Prices.  The prices of tours, cost of accommodations and meals are very expensive in Patagonia. 

Tickets Fees.  Ticket fees and entrance tickets often cost up to 3 times more for foreigners. 

Bookings.  Tours and accommodations book up in advance. We booked everything 2 to 6 months ahead of time. 

Elsewhere in Patagonia 

From the rugged trekking routes of Torres del Paine to the glaciers and mountain towns of Argentine Patagonia, discover more of the shared Patagonian wilderness:

Patagonia Argentina Travel Guide: Perito Moreno Glacier, El Calafate & Fitz Roy.  Explore Patagonia’s Argentine side through massive glaciers, turquoise lakes, El Calafate base town and the dramatic granite peaks of Mt. Fitz Roy.

For Next Time…

Walk with Penguins.  Nearby the Chilean Patagonian town of Puerto Arenas is a remote island home to colonies of penguins. We plan to tour the island and walk with them on our next trip to the region. 

Tour the Fjords.  Patagonias fjords are boat ride from the city’s port. When we return, we plan to tour them, their mountains, waterfalls and glaciers, including the Balmaceda and Serrano Glaciers.

Last Hope Distillery.  Patagonian gin is one of our favorites styles of gin for its herbal and floral flavors. We missed our chance to visit the city’s only gin distillery. We hope to make it one our first stops next time. 

Puma Tracking.  We saw signs and warnings about the Puna everywhere. We were either lucky or unlucky not to spot one. When we return, we plan to hire a guide to bring us puma tracking in hopes of spotting one of the big cats.

Uruguay Travel Guide: Colonia del Sacramento, Montevideo & Punta del Este

A Week in Uruguay 

Uruguay is an under the radar destination with a relaxed and unpretentious atmosphere. Its blend of European influences, subtropical climate, colonial architecture and thriving wine culture adds to its welcoming allure. We spent a week traveling along the scenic coastline between historic cities and seaside towns. 

Colonia del Sacramento

Colonia del Sacramento is a charming and picturesque colonial old town along Uruguay’s Rio de la Plata. With its Spanish and Portuguese influences, the city is an architectural gem comprised of  stone buildings, colorfully painted facades, crumbling ruins, cobblestone streets and lush plazas. 

Springtime in Colonia 

The town is a verdant place during the springtime. Towering sycamore trees line the streets while purple flowering bougainvillea bushes grow along the facades of colonial buildings. Lush palm trees shade the plazas as bright green parquets chirp overhead. 

Colonial Sights

El Faro de Colonia.  A slender white lighthouse attached to the crumbling ruins of a former convent. We climbed its spiral staircase to the observatory with panoramic views of the colonial city. 

Plaza Mayor.  A tree covered plaza in the center of the off town surrounded by cobblestone streets, historic sights and colonial buildings with restaurants, cafes and shops. 

Basilica del Santisimo Sacramento.  A historic colonial church with a white painted exterior and two bell towers with Portuguese tiled domes. 

Plaza de Armas.  A tree covered plaza at the foot of the Basilica del Santisimo Sacramento with restaurants and cafes. 

Porton de Campo.  A remnant of the stone wall once surrounding the colonial city with a wooden drawbridge and gate marking the entrance to the old town. 

Bastions Santa Rita, San Pedro & San Miguel.  Three sections of the stone wall with tiny plazas over looking the water surrounding the colonial town.

Calle de Portugal.  One of the most beautiful and historic streets in Colonia. It’s an original Portuguese street with a stone road, colorful buildings, giant flowering trees and street lanterns. 

Calle de los Suspiros.  The oldest colonial street in Barrio Historico with stone building and views of the Rio de la Plata.

Ruínas das Casa dos Governadores Portugueses.  The overgrown stone ruins and foundation of a mansion belonging to the former Portuguese governor of Colonia de Sacramento. Families of parquets live in the palm trees growing from the ruins. 

Plaza de Augusto.  A tree covered plaza with a central fountain, park benches and an outdoor gallery of natural photography. 

Mercado Artesanal de Colonia.  A market building with a cafe and vendors selling local crafts, jarred goods and Uruguayan wines. 

Places to Eat & Drink in Colonia

Serrano Cafe.  A rooftop cafe with pastries, breakfast dishes and views overlooking the Rio de la Plata. We came here for brunch, ordering an egg and avocado toast, a yogurt bowl and house lemonade made with mint and hibiscus.

Resto-Morriña.  A fusion restaurant merging Uruguayan and Galician cuisine with a tapas style menu. We shared everything, ordering the pulpo croquettes, papas bravas and cazuela de pescado y mariscos.

Freddos.  A national cafe chain known for its ice cream. We visited the location in Plaza Mayor for an afternoon coffee under the shaded umbrellas. 

Irenes Naturalmente Sabroso.  A local vegan and vegetarian restaurant serving traditionally meat forward Uruguayan dishes like Milanesa and Chivito, a sandwich made with seitan steak, lettuce, tomato and mayonnaise. 

El Buen Suspiro.  A wine bar in one of the oldest buildings in Colonia with thick plastered walls, short wooden doorways and a wall of Uruguayan wines. We ordered a glass of the Bodega Irurita Tannat Reserva and Bodega los Cerros de San Juan Tannat Tempranillo along with a charcuterie platter of four cheeses and bread. 

Vinos del Mundo.  A wine bar and shop in the Plaza de Armas with a wide selection of Uruguayan wines, especially Tannat and Tempranillo. We bought a bottle of Tannat and sipped on it later that afternoon on the roof of our hostel. 

Tips for Visiting Colonia

Getting Here.  Colonia is reachable 1 hour by ferry from Buenos Aires or 2 hours 30 minutes by bus from Montevideo. We booked our ferry with Buquebus and departed by bus with COT (Compaña Oriental de Transpotre).

How Long to Visit.  Most sights can be seen easily within a day but it’s better to stay overnight to enjoy the the town at slower pace.

Where to Stay.  We stayed the night at Viajero Colonia, a hostel chain across South America. The accommodation was simple but central with a rooftop over looking the coast, luggage storage and breakfast included. 

Montevideo

Montevideo is a metropolitan city with historic architecture, graffitied streets, numerous museums, tree covered plazas and white sand beaches. For a capital city, it has a quiet vibe, an inviting atmosphere and unpretentious allure that quickly had us saying, “we could live here.” 

The city is heavily influenced by European immigrants reflected in both the cuisine and architecture. Buildings are designed in Art Nouveau, Neoclassical, Renaissance, Gothic and Spanish colonial styles. Restaurants serve Spanish tapas, Italian pastas, pizzas & gelato as well as French pastries. 

Neighborhoods

Ciudad Viejo.  The oldest neighborhood of Montevideo once surrounded by a city wall during the colonial era. It’s an attractive neighborhood to explore on foot with pedestrian streets lined with vendors, lush shaded plazas, quaint cafe, Uruguayan restaurants and numerous museums.

El Centro.  The business district of Montevideo with office buildings, theaters, shops and public plazas. Its main avenues are hubs for all types of commerce and its side streets host small cafes, restaurants and residences. 

Barrio Parque Rodó.  A beautiful neighborhood named after the park that resides in it. Come here to walk around the tree covered streets, admire the various architectural styles, sunbathe at Playa Ramires, visit the National Art Museum and sip on cocktails at one of the many nearby bars. 

Enjoy the Parks & Plazas

Parque Rodó.  A seaside park next to Playa Ramirez with a colorful Spanish tiled fountain, an alley of towering palm trees, a lagoon with paddle boats, bronze statues, flowering gardens, small amusement park rides and a holiday craft fair.

Plaza de la Independencia. A palm lined central plaza with a large military mausoleum, the preserved ruins of the old town’s city gate and small fountains. It’s surrounded by historic and government buildings, most notably the Palacio Salvo. 

Plaza de la Diversidad Sexual.  A plaza in the old town dedicated to the LGBTQ+ community of Montevideo. The triangular plaza has a colorful mural and photo gallery honoring a transgender activist. 

Plaza de la Constitución.  A lush plaza covered by a canopy of sycamore and palm trees. At its center is a tiered marble fountain celebrating Uruguay’s independence with motifs of dragons spouting water. The plaza frequently hosts a market of vendors selling artwork, antiques, handmade items and souvenirs. 

Relax at the City Beaches

Playa Ramirez.  A crescent shaped white sand beach along the Rio de la Plata in the city center. It’s popular with locals for sunbathing, picnics and playing futbol. We spent an afternoon here sunbathing. 

Playa de Los Pocitos.  A large crescent shaped white sand beach along the Rio de la Plata. It’s Montevideo’s main beach, hugged by a skyline of residential towers and a palm lined promenade popular with joggers and bikers. We came here for the afternoon to listen to waves and sunbathe. Midway along the beach is Los Delfines, a small beach bar with strong mojitos and caipirinhas.

See the Museums 

Museo Andes 1972.  A museum dedicated to the story of the Uruguayan airplane crash in the Andes Mountains. It accurately tells the stories of the survivors and remembers those that died. The exhibits include artifacts from the tragedy like clothes, aircraft parts, letters and IDs.

Museo de Arte Precolombino y Indigent (MAPI).  A museum in a restored colonial building dedicated to the indigenous cultures of the Americas. The exhibits displayed and compared artifacts from North American tribes, Central American civilizations, Andean societies and the local peoples of Uruguay and Argentina. When we visited, a temporary exhibit displayed hundreds of masks from cultures across the Americas. 

Espacio de Arte Contemporáneo.  A contemporary art museum with works by Uruguayan artists. The museum is located in a former prison with its cells transformed into galleries and exhibit space. It’s free to enter! 

Museo Nacional de Artes Visuales.  An art museum housing a permanent collection of Uruguayan art with rotating galleries by Uruguayan artists. Art ranges from the colonial era to modern day. It’s free to enter!

Tango Museum.  A museum dedicated to the history of Tango, the Tango bar that once stood in place of Palacio Salvo and the Uruguayan Tango composer, G.H. Matos Rodrigues, famed for his song La Cumparsita. 

Visit the Sights 

Palacio Salvo.  A historic skyscraper and symbol of Uruguay dating back to 1928. Designed in multiple architectural styles, it stands out with its ornamental tower, organic corners and domed roof. Originally built as a hotel, it’s now a residential building with hundreds of apartments. We stayed at an Airbnb on the 8th floor, overlooking the plaza. We toured the building, visiting the observatory just below the domed roof, the 10th deck with close up views of the tower and the Tango Museum at its base.

Mausoleo de José Gervasio Artigas.  A large monument dedicated to the revolutionary hero with an underground mausoleum protected by two presidential guards. 

Puerta de la Ciudela.  One of the few remaining walled city gates that surrounded colonial Montevideo. 

Fortaleza Del Cerro.  A Spanish style hilltop fort built from stone with white painted guard towers and cannons lining its wall. The fort offers views of the city, Rio de la Plata and countryside. Inside of its walls is a military history museum dedicated to the country’s independence with exhibits housing antique guns and swords.

Palacio Legislativo.  The capital building of Uruguay and seat of the country’s legislative branch. The intricately designed building is carved from stone blocks with statues, sculptures, columns and ornate reliefs covering its exterior. Instead of a  domed roof, the building features a columned pantheon style crown. 

La Rambla.  A waterfront promenade and road stretching along the city’s coast with beaches, parks and bike paths.

Experience the Festivals and Markets 

La Bajada.  Uruguay’s largest music festival! A summery party scene celebrating the end of the year with thousands of people singing and dancing along to Latin music, live performances and Uruguayan DJs. The date and location are only announced the week of. It’s free to enter, starting in the late afternoon and going into the night. We discovered it completely by accident while walking along La Rambla. 

Feria del Parque Rodó.  A holiday craft fair that operates from early December until Christmas. Hundreds of vendors set up in tents lining the perimeter of Parque Rodó selling herba mate accessories, jewelry, house-plants, leather goods, cutting boards, clothing, crystals and gifts. There are two sections with food trucks selling all varieties of cuisine and beverages.

Mercado del Puerto.  A historic market in a wrought iron and wooden pavilion with many restaurants specializing in Parrilla. Smoke from wood burning grills fills the air with an aromatic haze as coils of sausage, slabs of meat and red bell peppers cook on large grates. Other vendors sell empanadas, Uruguayan wines, alfajores, yerba mate, gaucho style clothing and souvenirs.

Places to Eat and Drink in Montevideo

Toque Toque Bar.  A historic Renaissance style house converted into a restaurant and bar with an outdoor patio and indoor dining room beneath a brightly colored stained glass roof. The menu features Spanish style tapas and cocktails. We came here for pre-dinner drinks. Try the Tropical Gin made with gin, passion fruit, lemon and vanilla or the Free Bird mixed with rum, strawberry, Aperol and mint.

Toledo Tapas Bar.  An elevated tapas bar in a converted neo-classical home with contemporary twists on Spanish dishes. We shared the Peruvian style ceviche, garlic shrimp cooked with caramelized onions and carrots, and the Papas Bravas, prepared as a savory layered tart containing the sauce within. To drink, we sipped on a tiki style rum cocktail and a light but refreshing gin and tonic with grapefruit. 

Bar Rodó.  A popular bar in the Barrio Parque Rodó with multiple locations. Come here for Uruguayan bar food, cocktails and regional beers. 

Baker’s Bar.  A local feeling cocktail and tapas bar with well made drinks. Try a classic drink like the mai tai or one of their house concoctions like La Picosa, made with mezcal and garnished with a purple foam. 

Cerveceria Malafama.  A large beer hall and brewery in a warehouse style building with house brewed lagers, IPAs, stouts and sours. Their kitchen turns out delicious Uruguayan style pizzas and traditional tapas. We tried the amber lager, west coast IPA and “Bianca de Papas,” a pizza made with a garlic cream and thinly sliced potatoes. 

Restaurant El Navegante.  A seafood restaurant with nautical decor, a fish tank in the bar and a menu of basic but tasty versions of traditional Uruguayan dishes. We ordered the Merluza (fried hake) and Miniaturas de Pescado (small fried fish bites).  

Cafe Salvo.  A cafe at the base of the Palacio Salvo with coffee, pastries and sandwiches. We stopped in one morning for a quick breakfast. 

Punta del Este

Punta del Este is a resort town with sandy beaches, upscale neighborhoods and a historic peninsula lined with restaurants, bars, cafes and shops. We spent a long weekend in Punta relaxing on the beaches, walking the around the city’s central neighborhoods and visiting nearby sights. 

Neighborhoods & Sights

The Peninsula.  The neighborhood on the city’s peninsula with restaurants, bars, cafes, shops, small beaches, a harbor, high end homes and the country’s southernmost point. 

• Faro de Punta del Este.  A golden orange light house in the middle of the peninsula with a brick light house keepers home at its base. We tried to visit its observation deck twice but it was closed due to the off season. 

• Avienda Gorlero.  A touristy and commercial street in the center of the peninsula with shops, restaurants, cafes, art galleries, real estate offices and markets. 

• Punta Salinas.  The furthest point on the peninsula and southernmost point in Uruguay. There is an ocean view lookout and small war memorial. 

• Feria de Artesanos de Punta del Este.  A market on a palm lined plaza of the peninsula with dozens of vendors set up in a series of kiosks selling handmade items, mate accessories, beachwear and souvenirs.  

San Rafael Neighborhood.  The upscale neighborhood along Playa Brava with beachfront skyscrapers, luxury residences and high end hotels.

• La Mono en La Arena.  A sculpture of a hand crawling out of the sand built as a warning sign of the risk of drowning in the powerful currents. 

• Playa Brava.  A lengthy yellow sand beach along the Atlantic with several seasonal restaurants, surf schools and nearby hotels. It’s a popular spot for sunbathing and relaxing along shore.  

Places to Eat & Drink in Punta del Este

Restaurante Raíces.  A Spanish restaurant with several types of paella, tapas style starters and Uruguayan wines. We shared the “A Banada” paella made with mixed seafood like shrimp, mussel, scallops and calamari. We shared a bottle to Cabernet Franc from Bodega Garzón, recognized one of the country’s best vineyards. 

Puerto de Punta del Este.  A dining complex near the harbor with seafood restaurants, cafes, bars and ice-cream shops. We stopped by La Marea for Chocolate con Churros!

Manantiales Point.  A two level restaurant over looking the harbor with multiple bars. We stopped in for their afternoon happy hour, sharing a pitcher of Sangria made from Uruguayan wine.

Museo Casapueblo

A terraced organic complex built into the coastal hillside with white painted buildings formed by curved walls, conical spires, winding staircases, terracotta terraces and blue tiled accents. It was designed and built by one of Uruguay’s most beloved artists, Carlos Páez Vilaró, throughout his lifetime. The property served as his studio, home and a living sculpture. It’s now converted into a museum, restaurant and hotel with galleries of his work and a theater with a film about his life.

The Ceremony of the Sun.  As the sun sets below the Rio de la Plata, a recording of Carlos Páez Vilaró’s poem “Ceremonia del Sol” is played over Casapueblo. It’s a beautiful ode to the sun and life. We came here our last night in Uruguay, a fitting end to our time in this beautiful country. Arrive an hour early and book tickets online in advance. 

Playa Chihuahua.  Suns out buns out! A lengthly nude beach with yellow sand, some grassy dunes, a coastal river and a beach shack selling drinks and light bites. After laying out, we stopped by for caipirinhas and some shade. The beach is very lgbtq+ friendly with a progress flag flying along side Uruguay’s flag. It’s located a 10s minutes from Museo Casapueblo.

Uruguayan Cuisine

Provoleta.  Grilled and melted Argentinean provolone cheese seasoned with oregano and olive oil  It’s often served with bread for dipping.

Uruguayan Style Pizza.  Uruguayan style pizza is focused on the bread with a thin crust and pillowy dough. Sauce and cheese are treated like any other topping and not guaranteed. It’s frequently sold by the half meter at pizzerias across the city. 

Medialunas.  Tiny half moon shaped pastries similar to croissants made with a sweet dough and sugar glaze. 

Picada.  An Uruguayan version of charcuterie with a range of items to “pick at” like cheeses, spreads, pickled veggies, breads, meats and empanadas. 

Tortas Fritos.  A sweet snack made from rolled dough, deep fried and covered in dulce de leche or cinnamon sugar. It’s typically sold at street carts in plazas and parks. 

Yerba Mate.  This herbal tea is immensely  popular across Uruguay. People carry around gourd shaped mugs filled with tea leaves and a thermos with hot water to continuously steep their mate throughout the day. Its drank through a metal straw with a spoon shaped filter at its end. 

Tannat.  The national wine of Uruguay produced at vineyards across the country. It’s a tasty wine defined by its tannic forward mouth feel and rich palette of flavors. 

Fernet and Coke.  A bitter herbal liquor mixed with Coke. It’s a common cocktail across Uruguay.

Where to Stay 

Rocamar Boutique Hostel. A hostel near Playa Brava with dorms and private rooms. There is a communal patio with seating areas, a pool table and bar. It’s popular with young Uruguayans and Argentineans working seasonal jobs in the tourism and service industries.

Location Specifics

Covers.  Many restaurants and bars have “hidden covers” or cubiertos ranging in cost for dining in. 

Tipping.  10% tips are customary.

Cash vs Card.  Card is accepted at most businesses. There is often a 10-25% discount at restaurants for using credit card. 

For Next Time…

Having spent just over a week in Uruguay, we were able to enjoy time in three of the countries coastal cities. When we return we plan to visit more of the smaller towns and tour vineyards. 

Punta del Este.  Though we spent a long weekend in this beautiful beach town in mid December, most businesses were still closed for the season and the weather was cool & rainy. We would love to return to experience its full charm under the summer sun. 

Punta del Diablo.  A fishing village and beach town near the Brazilian boarder with sand dunes, dirt roads and tiny coastal houses. 

Carmelo.  A small town along the Uruguay River with many vineyards specializing in national grape, Tannat. 

Buenos Aires Travel Guide: Neighborhoods, Food & Nightlife

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Buenos Aires is a vibrant metropolis renowned for its cuisine, culture, architecture and history. It’s home to lively markets, world class cocktail bars, impressive art museums, glamours buildings and verdant parks. It’s defined by its distinct neighborhoods, each with their own character and charm. We spent a week exploring the city and discovering its hidden gems. 

San Telmo

San Telmo is a historic and bohemian neighborhood with cobblestone streets, colonial buildings, colorful murals and paper graffiti. It’s popular for its flea markets, antique stores and vintage shops selling an assortment of objects, jewelry, clothes, home goods and furniture. Sunday is the most lively day when thousands flock to the neighborhood’s streets, markets and plazas for weekend celebrations, happy hours, shopping and Tango performances.

San Telmo Market.  A historic market with an eclectic range of vendors and visitors. The liveliest day of the week, Sunday, provides a sensory experience with savory smells wafting from restaurant stalls serving empanadas, fugazza (Argentine pizza) and grilled meats. Between the chaos of rowdy futbol fans, farm stands sell fresh produce and provisions shops sell cheeses, meats, herba matte, dulce de leche, spices, Malbec wine and olives. Towards the fringes, aisles of flea market booths draw your eye, packed with antiques, vintage clothes, home decor, leather goods and handmade items. 

• Wine Window.  A wine bar serving Argentinian wines. Order at the bar, ring the bell and wait for the tiny window to pop open with your glass of wine.

• Regina Vermutheria.  A popular restaurant with fugatza (Argentine pizza) and grilled meats cooked in coal ovens. We came here for their classic fugatza, topped with mozzarella, red onion and olives then garnished with oregano, olive oil and salt. 

• Merci.  A bakery with breads and pastries mixing Argentinean and French flavors. The dulce de leche eclair caught our attention and did not disappoint! 

Plaza Dorrego.  A small but lively plaza in San Telmo popular for its Sunday flea market, Tango performances, local restaurants and bars serving inexpensive beers.

Fiera de San Telmo.  A Sunday flea market in Plaza Dorrego with tents of vendors selling antique silver tableware, vintage clothing and accessories like pins, jewelry, purses, glasses and hats. Vendors sprawl into the nearby street selling handmade items like leather goods, knives, jewelry in front of shops selling all forms of dulce de leche and Argentinian futbol jerseys. 

Palermo

Palermo is a vast neighborhood comprised of three sub neighborhoods: Palermo Hollywood, Palermo Soho and Palermo Chico. Together, they provide an endless range of cafes and coffee shops, local and international restaurants, hidden cocktail bars and late night pubs, lush city parks and cultural museums. It’s one of the most popular neighborhoods for locals, expats and travelers to live and visit.

Palermo Hollywood

Hollywood has a quiet and calm atmosphere which makes it the perfect location to stay. It’s densely residential but in close proximity to all the amenities of city life. Everything is less than 20 minutes away including local restaurants, cute cafes, late night bars, bakeries, public transit, city parks, mini markets, barber shops, convenient stores, hardware stores, etc. 

Tres de Febrero Park.  A massive park with a rose garden, Japanese garden, botanical garden, planetarium, recreational ball courts & fields, a golf course, a horserace track, cafes, restaurants, bars and beer gardens. 

• Paseo del Rosedal.  A romantic and flowering rose garden with colorful flowers, fountains, pergolas and a lake with paddle boat rentals. 

• Japanese Garden.  A traditional Japanese style garden with a large koi pond, pagodas, well manicured trees, red torii gates, arched red bridges and a tea house serving Japanese meals. The garden offers a peaceful and zen retreat in the middle of the city. While here, buy a begging cat ribbon, write a note, wish or prayer on it then tie it to the Shinto shrine. 

• Carlos Thays Botanical Garden.  A large botanical garden with a variety of native and exotic trees, plants, flowers and cacti. The park offers a tranquil escape from the city with walking paths, flower covered trellises, historic greenhouses, bronze sculptures and marble fountains.

Cafes & Argentine Patisserie. There is a cafe culture across Palmero Hollywood with coffee shops, bakeries and cafes around every corner. We stopped by a few during our walks through the neighborhood.

• Caversaschi & Co.  A cafe with eggs dishes and artisanal baked goods including some of the best medialunas we had in Argentina. They were large, flaky and covered in a thin sugar glaze. 

• V+Frapu.  A vegan cafe with empanadas, pastries and coffees. We stopped in for a mid afternoon pick me up and light bite. 

• El Secreto.  A cafe with pastries, cakes, sandwiches, coffees and cookies. We stopped in for a late night desert.

Palermo Soho

Soho as its name implies is the trendy area to be and the best spot for nightlife. There is no shortage of high end restaurants, local haunts, world class cocktail bars, lively pubs, coffee shops and afternoon brunch spots.

Plaza Serrano.  A lively plaza surrounded by bars and restaurants, popular for its nightlife and music, especially on Sundays. Arriving near midnight, we joined hundreds of energetic locals sharing bottles of wine and pints of beer together at outdoor tables.

• Pekin Bar de Pizzas.  The smell of baked pizzas and window display of Argentine style empanadas lured us in and keeps loyal locals coming back. Walking home from Plaza Serrano, we stopped in for an assortment of late night veggie empanadas like caprese, spinach with béchamel and cheese with onions.  

• Baum.  One of the many bars and cervecrias in Plaza Serrano with house brewed beers. We ordered a couple pints to end our Sunday night. 

Palermo Cocktail Bars

Buenos Aires has an endless number of world class cocktail bars, particularly in Palermo Soho. Throughout the week, we tasted unique concoctions and some classic cocktails with a twist at numerous bars. 

• Uptown.  An underground speakeasy styled like a New York City subway station. We immediately felt transported back to NYC when entering the bar. As we descended the stairs into the “station,” we heard MTA announcements and walked through a corridor with train maps, Broadway ads, tiled walls and graffiti. Passing through turnstiles, we boarded a train car converted into a waiting area. The opposite doors opened into an industrial feeling space with nods to New York. Once inside, head to the bar and order a classic Manhattan, Gin Martini or specialty cocktail like “A Drink at Tiffany’s” or “Lost in Manhattan.”

• Boticario.  An apothecary themed cocktail bar with herbal concoctions and prohibition era libations. Sit at the dimly lit wooden bar lined with bottles of spirits, antique decor and fine glassware. Order a cocktail on the menu from one of the uniformed and tattooed bartenders or ask them to concoct something to treat your ailments. Try the Sazerac or Penicillin. 

• Oh’no! Lulu.  An unassuming tiki bar in a converted warehouse only identifiable by a neon sign of a dancing hula girl out front. Once inside, the atmosphere is as much about the decor as it is the cocktails. The tropical feeling space is styled with wicker furniture, bamboo walls, suspended basket pendants, a tiki god fireplace, a pirate flag, torches and vintage decor all blanketed in a warm red glow. The cocktails arrive is a variety of mugs including house designs like Poseidon, a shark head and a shrunken skull. Try the flaming Zombie, Shark!, Tikigroni and The Floor is Lava. 

• La Uat Bar.  A clubby and beachy speakeasy with Miami vice vibes, retro decor, pink and blue lights, a giant disco ball, a second floor club and cocktails that lean herbal & fruity. The entrance is hidden beyond a beaded palm tree curtain behind the kitchen of a street side walk up restaurant. Once inside, try the Rosa Rosa or Marxxxtini Highball. 

• Brukbar.  An inventive cocktail bar popular with locals open late into the evening. Try the Maldito Mango, a passion fruit and tequila fishbowl with a “pour it yourself” bottle of habanero hibiscus syrup. Or Penny’s Punch, a tart and balanced cocktail in a mug of Pennywise the Clown’s head. 

• Tres Monos.  A late night cocktail bar with funky vibes and equally as unique drinks. Bartenders shake and stir tropical, fruity and herbal forward cocktails with their house made gin and a range of spirits. It bar has a fun and unpretentious atmosphere while maintaining its rating as one of the top 50 cocktail bars in the world.  

• Rey de Copas.  An eclectic and artsy cocktail bar with decor, music and flavorful drinks themed after world wonders and international locations. Once inside, find a nook that speaks to you relax with a cocktail in hand. Try the Giza, a vodka based drink made with honey, citrus and mint. Or Chichén Itzá, a tequila and mezcal based cocktail made with jalapeño and hibiscus. 

• Doppelgänger.  A martini bar with gin and herbal cocktails. Mixologists make drinks based on what type of spirits and flavors you like. Our bartender made us a black pepper vodka martini and a white Negroni with pisco. It’s located on the other side of town, no where near Palermo. 

Places to Eat in Palermo

El Preferido de Palermo.  A higher end restaurant with a range of homestyle Argentinean and international dishes cooked over coal. We made a reservation ahead of time for dinner, dining in their outdoor patio and sharing a few tapas. First, a smoky spread of baba ganoush with sourdough rolls. Second, faina (chickpea flatbread) with provolone. Third, baked rice topped with asparagus prepared in a cast iron dish. It was similar to a vegetarian paella with a crispy socoratt. 

Moshu Treehouse.  Let them eat cake! A coffee shop known for their artisanal cakes and scones. We stopped in for brunch, ordering slices of the carrot cake and lemon blueberry cake. Hungry for more than cake, we split an order of creamed eggs with cured trout.

Palermo Chico

Chico is a smaller and ritzy area of Palermo with ornate mansions, embassies, museums and city parks. It’s slightly more removed but perfect for exploring its cultural sights and beautiful streets.

Palermo Art Museums 

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes.  Argentina’s national art museum with pieces by Argentine artists depicting the county’s battles for independence, its indigenous peoples, working class and city life. Galleries include sculpture, tapestries, artifacts and European works dating back to the Renaissance and by artists like Degas, Van Gogh, Renoir, Cézanne, Toulouse-Lautrec, Gauguin, Manet, Monet and Picasso. Entry is free of by donation. 

Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA).  An art museum housing contemporary Argentinian art and pieces by Latin American artists including Fernando Botero, Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo.

El Centro

The central neighborhood is home to some of Buenos Aires’ most iconic buildings, historic sights and landmarks.

Plaza de Mayo.  The city’s main plaza surrounded by government buildings, most notably, the presidential palace. 

La Casa Rosada.  The Argentine presidential palace, home and offices named after its rose tinted stone exterior. 

Avienda de Mayo.  A grand avenue lined with historic buildings, cafes and hotels. 

Corrientes Avenue.  A street with Broadway style theaters and chain clothing stores. The parallel streets are lined with beautiful architecture, popular afternoon cafes, happy hour bars and local lunch spots. 

Palacio Barolo.  A famed office building designed in the theme of Dante’s Divine Comedy with tours and a panoramic rooftop bar.

Obelisco.  A white stone obelisk commemorating the city’s founding.

Puente de Mujer.  A sleek pedestrian swing bridge with a sail-like cantilevered suspension designed by Calatrava in honor of Argentine women. 

Buenos Aires Ecological Reserve.  The city’s largest park with walking paths, bike trails and boardwalks through wetlands, lagoons and forests. The middle of the reserve features a circular boardwalk over a lagoon with views looking back towards the modern city skyline. Between the moss and sea grass, we spotted turtles, ducks and dragonflies. Further into the reserve is a picnic area with views of the Rio de la Plata. It’s free to enter and easy to spend several hours explore on foot or by bike. 

La Boca

La Boca is a vibrant neighborhood with waterfront warehouses, a large futbol stadium, colorfully painted buildings, graffitied streets, large murals and caricature-like statues of famous Argentinians including Tango dancers, futbol players and even the pope. The most lively area of the neighborhood is Caminito, home to sports bars, tango clubs and tourist shops. We explored the area in the late afternoon and early evening. Most places only began to open up around 8pm. 

Tigre 

Tigre is a historic suburb of Buenos Aires with homes built along canals and wetlands in the Tigre River Delta. We took a day trip here to explore its lush waterways, islands and architecture. 

Paseo Victoria.  A tree lined pedestrian street along the river with restaurants, boat launches, canoe rentals and historic buildings. We walked along the promenade watching wooden boats pass up and down the canal. 

Puertos de Frutos.  A vast market with booths of vendors selling wooden furniture, wicker baskets, handmade knives, herba mate mugs and souvenirs. 

Getting Here.  Take the MITRE train, a commuter rail line that extends further than the Subte. Stations often only accept cash for tickets. 

Tigre Canal Tour

The best way to explore Tigre and its canals is by boat! There are many tour operators near the Rio Tigre and piers. We shopped around for a small boat tour that would bring us further into the river delta than the larger catamarans.

We rode on a tiny traditional wooden boat to tour the grand canal and narrow passageways. Along the grand canal, we passed a ship yard, ornate art museum and amusement park. Venturing further into the islands and narrower channels, we boated past small hotels and resorts, summer cottages, modern homes, wooden casitas and a former president’s home, preserved inside of a glass box. 

The tour was narrated in both English and Spanish. In route, we learned about the community, its history and the landscape of the waterways. The tour lasted an hour and cost around $35 USD per person.

Argentine Cuisine 

• Empanadas.  One of Argentina’s most popular snacks. The savory packets of dough are stylized with crimped sides and stuffed with fillings including meats, veggies or seafood.  

• Milanesa.  A popular dish made of breaded and fried meat or vegetables like eggplant. 

• Fugazza.  Argentinean style pizza made with a thin crust and fluffy dough topped with any number of toppings. Traditional places bake it in a coal or wood fired oven. 

• Provoleta.  Grilled and melted Argentinean provolone cheese seasoned with oregano and olive oil  It’s often served with bread for dipping.

• Rabas.  Rings of Argentinian style fried calamari. It’s a common restaurant appetizer and snack at bars.

• Picadas.  Argentinian style charcuterie. A plate of “pickings” often includes cheese, pickled veggies and meat. 

• Medialunas.  Tiny half moon shaped pastries similar to croissants made with a sweet dough and sugar glaze. 

• Alfajores. Two sugar cookies with a generous layer of dulce de lèche sandwiched in between and coated in coconut shavings or covered in chocolate. 

• Malbec.  A full bodied red wine and the national wine of Argentina, primarily grown in the Mendoza region. 

• Fernet and Coke.  A bitter herbal liquor mixed with Coke. It’s a common cocktail across Argentina. 

• Quilmes.  Argentina’s national beer. The lager is inexpensive and widely available at bars and restaurants across Buenos Aires.

• Yerba Mate.  This herbal tea is immensely popular across Argentina. People carry around gourd shaped mugs filled with tea leaves and a thermos with hot water to continuously steep their mate throughout the day. Its drank through a metal straw with a spoon shaped filter at its end. 

Where to Stay

We stayed at an Airbnb in the middle of Palermo Hollywood. For many of the reasons we love this neighborhood, it was the perfect spot to stay. The studio included a kitchen and balcony

Getting Around 

• Subte (Public Transit).  A transit system of buses and subways with routes all across Buenos Aires. It’s the easiest and cheapest way to navigate the city. We paid by tapping our credit card at the kiosks with fares costing around $0.75 per ride. 

• Ubers.  Ubers are available across Buenos Aires. They’re great for distances outside the reaches of the Subte. 

• On Foot. Though each neighborhood is vast, they’re easily walkable for those used to living in cities. Most places are reachable on foot or from the metro station within 20 minutes.

• Airports. There are two main airports in Buenos Aires. Ezeiza International Airport is located 45 minutes by car from the city center and typically welcomes international arrivals. Jorge NewberyInternational Airport is located in the city center, 15 minutes by car from Palmero and typically welcomes domestic travelers. 

Location Specifics

• Siestas.  Siestas or afternoon breaks are a thing in Buenos Aires. Many businesses close between 12-3pm. 

• Dinner Hour.  Dinner service typically starts after 8pm, lasting until midnight. 

• Currency.  Exchanging USD for pesos provides a better rate than using ATMs. Currency exchanges will not accept tattered, torn or marked bills.

• Restaurant Reservations.  Reservations are needed at most restaurants to guarantee a table.

• Cash vs Card.  Credit card is widely accepted however debit card is preferred. Price can cost up to 10% more than with cash. It’s good to carry both Argentine pesos and USD. 

• Tipping.  10% tips are common. 

• Costs.  Like many major cities, Buenos Aires is very expensive, especially when it comes to dining out. 

Elsewhere in Argentina 

From Buenos Aires' vibrant neighborhoods and tango halls to Mendoza's vineyards and Patagonia's glaciers, continue exploring Argentina's diverse landscapes and culture through these travel guides:

Mendoza Argentina Travel Guide: Wineries, Wine Tours & Cuisine.  Discover Argentina's wine country through vineyard tours, Malbec tastings, mountain backdrops and culinary experiences in the foothills of the Andes.

Patagonia Argentina Travel Guide: Perito Moreno Glacier, El Calafate & Fitz Roy.  Journey into Argentina's southern frontier to experience massive glaciers, turquoise lakes, El Calafate base town and the iconic peaks of Mount Fitz Roy.

For Next Time…

Buenos Aires is one of those ever changing worldly city’s that leaves you wanting to return! We can’t wait for our next trip here and will eagerly be tracking flights. Outside of Buenos Aires and the destinations we’ve already visited in Argentina, we’re excited to see some of the country’s other highlights. 

• Cordoba.  A northern Argentine city famed for its colonial architecture, scenic mountain range landscapes and Argentine cuisine. 

• Argentinian Andes and Atacama.  Having visited the Chilean and Bolivian Andes and Atacama, we’d like to travel to the Argentinian region home to more desert lagoons, volcanos, salt flats and waterfalls. 

• Ushuaia and Antarctica.  At the bottom tip of South America is the world’s most souther city, Ushuaia. We plan to visit and take a ship across the tortious Drakes Passage to the white continent, Antartica. 

• Iguazu Falls.  A canyon with South America’s largest waterfall. We visited the Brazilian side on one of our first trips to South America and have been waiting to return to see the Argentinian side. 

Peru Coast Travel Guide: Nazca Lines, Huacachina & Ancient Civilizations

Peru, Ancient Land of Mysteries 

Peru is known for many great things, including the ruins of ancient civilizations, stunning nature and an unparalleled level of cuisine. We toured Lima and explored the Peruvian coast visiting numerous towns by bus including Pisco, Paracas, Ica and Huacachina and Nasca. During our past two trips along the Peruvian Coast, we were able to have authentic and local experiences through our own exploration and the eyes of multiple friends we met along the way. 

Lima, The Capital of Peru 

Lima is an expansive coastal city with stunning ocean views, Spanish colonial architecture, ancient ruins, catacombs, important cultural sights and irresistible cuisine, especially the seafood. In fact, we credit this trip with converting us from vegetarians into pescatarians. Lima is often an entry point to the country and jumping off point for other Peruvian destinations. 

Our Favorite Neighborhoods

Miraflores. Which translates to “Look at the Flowers” is a green neighborhood in the heart of the city with lush parks and coastal visitas. It’s an elevated area with modern skyscrapers, beautiful residences and many restaurants. 

• Locramar.  An outdoor shopping mall in Miraflores with stores, restaurants and bars built into a cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean. 

• Cat Park.  A tiny park, home to at least 100 kittens and cats cared for by the city. Come here to cuddle and play with them as they wander the park. 

• Love Park.  A park along the seaside cliff in Miraflores with a large terracotta sculpture of two lovers lying and embracing, wavy colorfully tiled walls and a fence with heart shaped locks. 

Barranco. A coastal neighborhood with an old world feel, local vibes and welcoming atmosphere. The neighborhood is walkable making it easy to spend time exploring by foot. We walked along narrow tree lined streets, through flowering parks, past historic buildings and admired the creative street art. There are plenty of bars, restaurants and coffee shops making it a lovely place to stay or visit. 

• Parque Federico Villarreal.  A park with an abandoned cathedral and pedestrian walkway leading from the top of the neighborhood to a lookout over the ocean past several restaurants, bars, cafes, art galleries and shops. The lookout is a beautiful spot to watch the sunset. 

• Puente de los Suspiros.  A wooden pedestrian bridge with views of the walkway below. 

• Parque Municipal de Barranco.  A historic plaza in the heart of the neighborhood with colonial architecture including a yellow neoclassical cathedral, a pink library and reflecting pool with a Greek style fountain. 

Callao. A neighborhood known locally for its fishing port and seafood restaurants. We explored the streets and sights around the central plaza where stopped to eat ceviche and drink pisco sours. The area outside of the central plaza is considered unsafe to visit. 

See the Sights & Museums 

Huaca Pucllana Site Museum.  An expansive adobe brick ruin that pre-dates the Incas. The grounds include the remains of a pyramid and many smaller structures. The pyramid is believe to have been used for ceremonial and sacrificial purposes. The ruins of other structures are thought to have been used for agricultural storage and administrative purposes for overseeing the civilization’s irrigation practices. 

The sight is located in the middle of Lima, surrounded by modern civilization offering a unique contrast. It can only be toured by guide, available from the ticket office. With our guides, we spent over an hour walking its pathways, courtyards and on top of the massive structure. 

Paragliding.  The cliffs of Lima provide the perfect location for paragliding! Having never tried it before, we decided to give it a try. Taking off using on an improvised fan powered parachute, we soared into the air. From above, we overlooked the pacific coast and entirely of Lima, flying between Miraflores and Borranco before landing back at the beach. Our flight lasted about 20 minutes. 

The Magic Water Circuit.  It sounds extra touristy and it kind of it but it doesn’t make it any less grand. You’ll be treated to a light and water show within the park’s fountains, depicting holograms, images and music telling the story or Peru.

The Catacombs.  A UNESCO World Heritage Site, located beneath the Basílica y Convento de San Francisco. The catacombs are lined with the skulls and bones of tens of thousands of humans, all uniquely organized and arranged in an array of terrifying yet beautiful patterns. No photos are allowed to be taken.

Plaza de Armas.  The city’s historic center and main plaza. It’s surrounded by stunning government buildings, palaces and cathedrals.

Larco Museum.  An exquisite collection of Peruvian ceramics and artifacts dating back thousands of years until the arrival of the Europeans. The museum categorizes the ceramics by period and civilization, going into great detail about their design, manufacturing and cultural significance. 

Other exhibits include one with erotic ceramics and visible storage room. In addition to ceramics, some of the most interesting artifacts are textiles used for record keeping, a tunic made from macaw feathers, mummified remains, precious jewelry and the the only complete royal funereally set with a golden mask, breast plate and headpiece. 

Museo Oro del Perú y Armas del Mundo.  A museum with gold and silver artifacts from past Peruvian civilization including jewelry, clothing, mugs, funeral offerings and carved stone weaponry. Some of the more fascinating artifacts are mummified remains, human skulls wearing ancient feathered headdresses, golden wall panels from the ancient city and gold plated blankets used by royals.

Fortaleza del Real Felipe.  A historic stone military fortress with a pentagon shaped structure, round guard towers, walls lined with hundreds of cannons and a central courtyard still used by the military today. The two guard towers are the most impressive to visit. We explored their labyrinth of rounded tunnels, ramps and staircases leading to rooms, chambers and lookouts. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Amankaya - Peruvian Food.  A delectable seafood restaurant built within a house in Miramar neighborhood of Lima. We came here for the fresh ceviche, buttery seafood rice, flamed mixed seafood scallops and chilcano cocktails. 

Coffeebrix.  A cute cafe for artisan coffees, breakfast toasts, egg dishes and croissants.

Curayacu Tiki Bar - Barranco.  Known as Peru’s first Tiki Bar, the mixologists at this hidden gem make inventive tiki drinks and the classics with Peruvian Rum and a theatrical performance sometimes including  elaborate presentations, torched garnishing or a seafaring story. The bar is located in the basement in the Barranco neighborhood with tiki decor, a tropical ambience and one of a kind mugs.

En Su Punto.  A seafood restaurant on a colorful street in Callao covered with umbrellas and banderas. We came here for their lunch specials and ordered the fried seafood chicheron and ceviche for 25 Soles and 2 Pisco sours for 25 Sols.

Getting Around Lima

By Uber.  Getting to and from the airport or longer distances within the city is easiest by Uber. 

On Foot. The neighborhoods of Borranco and Miraflores are very walkable. We explore both on foot, even walking between them. 

Getting Around Peru

From Lima, it’s easy to get around the country by bus. During our past two trips to Peru, we took Perubus & Peru Hop. 

Perubus.  During our first trip to Peru, we used Perubus to travel between Lima, Pisco and Ica. Prices are extremely affordable, costing less than $10 for tickets between destinations with bus terminals in all three cities. 

Peru Hop.  The best way to get around Peru is by Peru Hop, a hop on hop off bus with destinations all across the coast from Lima, Paracas, Huacachina and Nazca into the Andes to Arequipa, Cusco and Puno (Lake Titicaca) then onward to Copacabana and La Paz, Bolivia. It is by far the best way to see Peru, allowing us to build our own itinerary, stopping at as many destinations along the way for as long as we would like. 

Paracas

Paracas is fishing village and backpackers haven along the Pacific coast known for its marine nature reserves, sprawling desert sand dunes and a large geoglyph called the Candelabra. 

See the Sights

Paracas Harbor.  The harbor is dotted with fishing boats bringing the days catch to the waterfront restaurants lining the beach in town. Its city center is surrounded by hostels, tour companies and more restaurants bars. We at lunch at Restaurant Tipico Bahia, a restaurant on the waterfront serving local Peruvian dishes. We ordered the ceviche, Jallea (mixed fried seafood) and Cusquenas.

Reserva Nacional de Paracas.  A national park in Paracas with a vast marine and desert reserve home to species of penguin, seabirds and sea lions. We explored The Ballistas Islands by boat, stopping at multiple locations to see penguins nesting, a large sea lions mating, flocks of birds feeding and a sea arch. Along the way, we passed the Paracas Candelabra, a massive geoglyph carved into the side of the mountain by an ancient civilization dating back 2,000 years. On land, we visited Playa Roja, a deep red sand beach along the cold pacific waters. Above the beach, we stopped at Mirador Istmo II, a lookout with views of the shoreline and sprawling yellow sand desert. 

The Paracas Desert.  A vast desert stretching from the Pacific Coast to the Andes Mountains with a seemingly endless horizon of massive sand dunes. In town, there are a number of guides offering tours into the desert. We booked with one that took us on a wild dune ride that traversed the massive valleys of sand. Half way through the tour, we stopped to try sand boarding for the first time. After a several attempts, mostly involving tumbling down the dune and crawling back to the top, we eventually gave up. Afterwards, we stuck around late enough to watch the sunset.  

Getting to Paracas

The best way to visit Paracas is by Peru Bus or Peru Hop. Plan to arrive by mid morning to get to the Ballestas Islands. There are many speedboat companies along the harbor that offer 2 to 3 hour tours for less than $20 per person. Prices and times are comparable for Dune Tours. 

Pisco 

Home of Peru’s national drink, the Pisco Sour. Pisco is a spirt fermented from grapes and distilled in large copper basins. While staying in town with our friends’ relatives, we drank homemade Pisco and watched Peruvian late night television. The town is hyper local with a central square, very few travelers and tuk tuk taxis racing down the dusty streets. 

Here is a great recipe for a Pisco Sour:

• 2 oz Pisco 

• 3/4 oz fresh lime juice

• 1 oz simple syrup 

• 1 egg white 

• Angostura bitters 

Shake all ingredients vigorously for about 30 seconds, then add ice and shake for at least another 15 seconds. Strain into a chilled glass and garnish the frothy top with a few dashes of the bitters. 

Ica 

Ica is a region of the Peruvian desert at the base of the Andes Mountains with wine vineyards, Pisco distilleries, a desert oasis and nature reserves.

Peruvian Wines & Vineyards 

Though Peru is not widely known for its wines, many incredible vintages come out of the country’s Ica Valley. During our 3 week in Peru, we sampled multiple wines, piscos and visited a couple of vineyards

• Bodegas Vista Alegre.  One of Peru’s largest and oldest vineyards and Pisco distilleries. Rows of grape vines line the fields extending towards the edge of the Andes mountains range. We learned about how the grapes are harvested, toured the facilities where they are fermented, distilled and bottled before getting to enjoy some for ourselves. 

• Nietto Vineyard.  A vineyard and Pisco distillery in Ica. We stopped here on the Peru Hop bus and sampled at least a dozen wines and Piscos before enjoying a lunch with our guide. The atmosphere made for a lively and memorable experience!

• Vittoria Reserva Malbec, Valle de Ica, Peru. A flavorful, full bodied and dry red wine with rich fruity notes.

• Intipalka Vino Cabernet Sauvignon Syrah Réserva, Valle de Sol, Peru. An easy drinking mid to full bodied and dry red wine.

• Intipalka Reserva de Familie Malbec, Bakke de Ica, Peru.  A flavorful, dry and full bodied red wine. 

• Tacama Gran Tinto Trea Cepas Malbec, Petit Verdot & Tannat.  A popular mid bodied and dry Peruvian red wine sold across the country made from a blend of Malbec and Tennat.

• Tacama Gran Blanco.  A popular white wine sold across the country with a light body with a dry and stoney flavor.

Getting Around Ica

By Taxi.  The best way to tour Ica is to hire a taxi driver for the day or afternoon. Many of them will bring you to various sights, recommend places to eat and wait for you while you explore. The cost will depend on how long you hire them for and what you negotiate. In our instance, we hired a taxi for 4 hours and it cost $30. 

Huacachina 

The Desert Oasis.  Huacachina is a picturesque desert oasis hidden between monstrous sand dunes home to a tiny lake surrounded by palm trees, hostels, restaurants and bars. The town is popular with backpackers and desert activities like dune buggy rides & sand boarding.

Experience the Sand Dunes

Huacachina Dunes.  We woke up early and climbed both dunes surrounding the oasis. From the top of the first crest, we ate breakfast with the company of a doggie that followed us up. On the second dune, the morning fog had cleared, revealing a clear blue sky above the beautiful oasis and the vast desert dunes rippling far across the horizon. 

Dune Rides & Sand Boarding.  We boarded a small dune buggy that rode into the desert for an exhilarating and heart dropping roller coaster ride through the dunes, drifting sideways across the sand and down step dunes at high speeds. We stopped at multiple places for photos, sand boarding and the sunset. There were three dunes to sled, sand-board or ski down, each increasing in length and speed. 

Places to Eat, Drink & Stay

Viajero Hostel Huacachina.  With its inviting atmosphere and well ran experience, Viajero is one the best hostel we’ve stayed at! It has a large courtyard with a restaurant, bar, pool and numerous style lounge areas surrounded by multiple buildings home to dorms and private rooms. They offer nightly events to meet other guests and keep entertained including karaoke and dancing. Book here!

Vittoly Cafe.  A small cafe with breakfast dishes, to go empanadas and cookies. It’s a quick spot to stop on the way into our out of town for a bite to eat and refreshment. 

Huaca-Fucking-China.  An iconic restaurant and bar in Huacachina known for its name, Peruvian dishes and cocktails. Come here for a drink and meal overlooking the lake. 

Nasca

Nasca is a Peruvian desert city famed for the archeological ruins and remains of the Nazca civilization including the Nasca Lines, ancient aqueducts and cemeteries with mummified remains. 

The Nasca Lines

The Nasca Lines are some of the most significant archeological sights in Peru. Carved into the desert landscape by the Nasca people, the ancient geoglyphs depict  animals, trees, people and mysterious shapes, some stretching hundreds of meters across. The lines can be observed from an observation tower or by flying above them. 

Nasca Lines Flight.  We took a flight over the Nasca Desert to view the Nasca Lines. During the flight, we flew over and circled many the remarkable geo-glyphs including the most iconic like the spider, hummingbird, condor and monkey. In addition, we took in views of the desert landscape, farms and vineyards, foot hills of the Andes mountains and world’s largest sand dune in the distance.

It is the best way to view a majority of the Nasca Lines though not the cheapest. The flight lasted about 30 minutes, costing $120 USD and 77 Sols in airport fees per person. The pilot circled about a dozen lines from both sides of the small plane as the co-pilot narrated. All 6 passengers, including us, had  an equal opportunity to view most of the lines.

Nasca Tower.  A roadside tower, about 4 stories tall, overlooking three of the Nasca Lines. One of a tree, hands and a salamander. 

See the Sights 

Cantalloc Aqueducts.  A series of spiraled and circular stone aqueducts that drain into an underground canal for carrying water. Even during the peak of the dry season, the canal had flowing water while the adjacent river was completely dried up. They were build hundreds of years ago and are still in use today. 

Los Paredones.  The ruins of a terraced Incan city with trails leading past crumbling adobe brick walls, semi-restored buildings and broken fragments of ancient pottery scattered across the ground. It’s located about 20 minutes on foot from the Plaza de Armas. The ticket allows for access to other sights in the city including the Cantalloc Aqueducts.

Cementerio Chauchilla.  An ancient cemetery with the mummified and skeletal remains of the Nasca people dating back to 200 BCE. Inside the now exposed adobe brick tombs, bodies are buried facing east in an upright fetal position and wrapped in a basket of linens. Pottery holding objects meant for the afterlife are placed around them as their skulls stare outward baring lengthy strands of braided hair. 

Due to grave robbing over the last century, bone fragments, torn linens and broken pottery from hundreds of tombs can be seen scattered across the landscape. Only the restored and preserved tombs are on display for viewing. The cemetery is located 45 min by car south of the city of Nasca.

Plaza de Armas.  The tree lined central plaza with fountains, benches and artwork depicting the Nasca Lines. It’s a popular spot for families to hang out at night.

Feria de Comerciantes de Nasca.  A traditional Peruvian fruit, vegetable and flower market with tables of vendors selling locally grown produce including avocado, blueberries, cherimoya, star fruit, passion fruit, giant squash, peanuts, farmers cheese, breads and some meats. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Killa Cafe & Bar.  A restaurant and cafe with coffees and breakfast dishes. We stopped in shortly after arriving in Paracas on the morning Peru Hop bus from Lima. 

Mamashana.  A Peruvian restaurant with traditional dishes like Papa a la Huancana, Lomo Saltado, Chupe de Pescado and Potato Causas. 

Mom’s Cafe.  A café with empanadas, baked goods, coffees, sodas and beers. It’s a pick up and drop off location for the Peru Hop bus in Nasca. 

La Casa del Pisco Garcia.  A very local bar that serves various Piscos by the glass, carafe, full bottle or in cocktails. 

D’Gula Restaurant.  A Peruvian restaurant serving traditional dishes like causas, parihuela, lomo soltado and pasta cooked in huacaillna sauce as well as Peruvian wines.

Street Tamales.  The city comes to life at 8am with the call of the Tamale Guy driving by announcing “tamales, tamales, tamales” from a speaker in his car. We bought some wrapped in banana leaves, made with corn masa, spices and heart of palm. 

Getting Around Nazca

On Foot.  Upon arrival in Nasca, the best way to see the city and get around to nearby sights is on foot. 

By Taxi.  For further away sights more than 30min on foot, we opted to hire a taxi. Taxi drivers are plentiful across the city and should cost 10-20 Sols for short distances and around 50 Sols for larger distances. 

Peruvian Cuisine 

With access to the Pacific Ocean, cuisine along the coast of Peru is seafood heavy with many other dishes made from Peruvian potatoes and corn as well as cocktails made with Pisco.

• Civiche.  A Peruvian staple typically made from raw fish cured in lime juice with onions, cilantro, sweet potato and cilantro. Try it with Leche de Tigre, a spicy marinate often served in ceviche. 

• Jalea.  Fried mixed seafood topped with pickled red onions, cilantro and tomato.

• Parihuela.  A fish stew made with white fish, shrimp, octopus and squid in a tomato broth. 

• Lomo Soltado.  A stir fried and flamed beef dish cooked in a pan at high heat with onions and soy sauce. It can also be made vegetarian with bell peppers, eggplant or tofu. 

• Potatoes.  Peru is known for having thousands of variety of potatoes. They’re served mashed in causas, fried and in soups & stews. 

• Causa.  A pureed potato dish layered with fish, meats or veggies served cold. It’s a common appetizer at restaurants across the country.

• Papas de Huacallena.  A sliced potato dish covered in Huacallena sauce and served with sliced boiled eggs and olives.

• Huacallena Sauce.  A savory Peruvian sauce made from yellow peppers and cheese. It can be served hot or cold. 

• Choclo con Queso.  Boiled Peruvian corn wrapped in a grilled piece of Peruvian cheese. 

• Canchas.  Toasted or fried Peruvian Corn served as a snack at restaurants or garnish in various dishes. 

• Pisco Sour.  Peru’s national drink made from Pisco, lime juice, simple syrup and egg whites all mixed together.

• Chilcano.  A Peruvian cocktail made with Pisco, lime juice and ginger ale. We ordered the traditional version and one with passion fruit multiple times. 

• Inka Cola.  A yellow soda popular across Peru with a tuti fruity flavor. Coming from the Midwest, it tastes similar to Faygo Rock n Rye. 

• Cusquena.  One of Peru’s national beers easily identifiable by its bottle cap with Machu Picchu on it and a bottle embossed in Incan stone work. It comes in three varieties, Dorado (Golden), Wheat and Negro (Stout). 

Elsewhere in Peru 

From the desert coast and ancient civilizations of the Nazca region to the heights of the Andes and sacred waters of Lake Titicaca, discover more of Peru through these travel guides:

Peru Andes Travel Guide: Machu Picchu, Cusco & Inca Ruins.  Journey through the heart of the Andes to discover Machu Picchu, Cusco's historic streets, Sacred Valley landscapes and the legacy of the Inca Empire.

Arequipa Peru Travel Guide: Colonial Architecture, Food & Culture.  Wander through Peru's "White City," where volcanic stone architecture, colonial plazas and rich culinary traditions define southern Peruvian culture.

Lake Titicaca Travel Guide: Floating Islands & Indigenous Culture.  Experience the world's highest navigable lake through Indigenous communities, floating reed islands and ancient Andean traditions shared between Peru and Bolivia. 

For Next Time… 

Having visited Peru twice for a total of 4 weeks, we continue to discover more places to visit and sights to see. On our third trip, we hope to venture deep into The Peruvian Amazon to the cities of Iquitos and Puerto Maldonado as well as some national parks like the Tambopata National Reserve and Bahauja-Sonene National Park. 

Arequipa Peru Travel Guide: Colonial Architecture, Food & Culture

Arequipa, Peru’s Second City

Arequipa, Peru’s second city, is widely considered its most beautiful with ornate white stone buildings set against the backdrop of multiple volcanoes. The city is a cultural hub with indigenous artisans manufacturing goods from alpaca and vicuña wool. It’s recognized as the gastronomic center of Peru for its cuisine with local dishes and Peruvian classics. Located between the Andes Mountains and Pacific Coast, its year round temperate climate makes it a popular destination with cool nights and warm sunny days. 

Neighborhoods & Streets

Centro Historico.  The historic center of Arequipa centered on the Plaza de Armas with the largest collection of baroque style buildings, museums and landmark sights. 

Lázaro Neighborhood.  The oldest neighborhood in Arequipa with white stone walls, cobblestone streets and a small central plaza with cafes and bars. 

Yanahuara Neighborhood.  A neighborhood across the river from the Centro Historico with views overlooking the city and volcanos.

Calle Santa Catalina.  A street through the Centro Historico with restaurants, cafes, bars and shops selling alpaca clothes and accessories. 

Things to Do 

Pose with the Alpaca Ladies.  A group of indigenous women dressed in traditional clothing walking baby alpacas. Pose with them and the alpaca for a small tip. When posing for photo, make sure to top each woman individually. 

Puente Grau.  Walk across the Puente Grau bridge with views of the Misti and Chachani volcanoes.

Eat & Drink at Roof Top Restaurant.  Many restaurants have rooftop terraces and bars across Arequipa. They’re popular for leisurely breakfasts, enjoying views of the city, volcanos and sunsets.

Alpaca Shopping.  Go shopping for alpaca, llama or vicuna fur clothes, accessories or home goods. 

Admire The White City.  Arequipa is called “The White City” for its buildings made from white volcanic stone and their ornate baroque style facades. We walked around the city admiring the architecture and touring landmark buildings. There are also walking tours in the Plaza de Armas based on tips. 

See the Sights 

Plaza de Armas.  A palm lined plaza at the heart of Arequipa’s historic neighborhood surrounded by white arched buildings and centered on the Basilica of Arequipa. It’s a culture center where locals come to relax and the city hosts events like live music and artisan markets.  

Basilica of Arequipa.  A grand neo-gothic and renaissance style cathedral with two bell towers and ornate masonry built from white volcanic stone.

Cloisters of The Company.  Two plazas with ornate white stone cloisters in the historic center of Arequipa home to cafes, bars and clothing stores selling alpaca and vicuña products.  

Mirador Yanahuara.  A palm lined plaza with an arched wall and lookout over the historic center of Arequipa and the Misti Volcano. 

Santa Catalina Monastery.  This large colonial monastery is a city within in a city surrounded by a stone wall. It’s defined by its maze of narrow cobblestone streets with their own names and vibrantly painted red walls. Branching off of the streets are individual homes for the nuns, blue painted cloisters, chapels with religious artwork and lush courtyards including one where we stopped for an afternoon wine.

Visit the Museums 

Mundo Alpaca.  A free museum dedicated to llamas, alpacas and vicuñas, the cultural and historic importance of their wool, the artistry used in transforming it into vibrant textiles. We came here to see and feed the animals, watch a woman hand sorting the wool fibers, observe indigenous women hand weaving beautiful blankets using indigenous methods. 

MUCEN Arequipa.  A small museum in a historic building with a collection of Peruvian pottery organized by period of time, civilization and geographic regions across the country. Separate galleries display Arequipa style religious artwork and early forms of Peruvian currency. The museum is free to enter. 

Places to Shop

Arequipa is a hub for Peruvian alpaca and vicuñas textiles, clothing and accessories including ponchos, sweaters, hats, gloves, blankets and yarn. We shopped at high end clothing stores, artisan markets and souvenir style shops. The higher end shops offered seasonal discounts ranging from 10-40% off while prices were negotiable at the artisan markets, souvenir style shops. 

Sol Alpaca.  A higher end shop with finer grades of alpaca and vicuñas wool clothing and accessories made with modern designs and patterns. We bought a poncho and hat. 

Carasco Company.  A historic hat maker that sells traditional Peruvian style hats made from alpaca fibers. I bought a blue wool hat with a yellow band. 

Qori Kancha.  A shop that sells lesser grade alpaca wool clothing and accessories made with traditional designs and patterns. I bought a blue and red traditional style poncho with a geometric pattern from here.

Festival Artesanal Productores Arequipenos.  A popup market near the Plaza de Armas with tents of local artisans knitting and selling alpaca fiber clothing and accessories. I bought a sweater with the design of a vicuña embroidered on it. 

Fundo El Fierro Arequipa.  An artisan craft market in the alley way, plaza and market surrounding the Plaza de San Francisco. Come here for all manner of alpaca products, handmade items, gifts and souvenirs. 

Arequipa Cuisine

Arequipa is recognized as a gastronomic hub for its cuisine and cultural significance in Peru. While here, we shopped and ate at the local market, dined at picantereas, tasted the street food and enjoyed rooftop cafes and bars. 

Picantereas.  A type of restaurant local to Arequipa known for spicy food.

Chupe de Camarones.  A shrimp stew with potatoes and rice cooked in a spicy and creamy broth. It’s a popular dish local to Arequipa and sold at picantereas across the city.

Tantawawa.  A Peruvian bread made specifically for Dia de los Muertos. It’s a spiced brioche style loaf commonly braided into the shape of a swaddled infant, llama or basket decorated in sesame seeds and colorful sprinkles. 

Queso Helado.  An ice-cream made from local cheese. It’s commonly sold by the cup on the street. 

Choclo con Queso.  Boiled Peruvian corn wrapped in a grilled piece of Peruvian cheese. 

Alpaca & Guinea Pig.  We don’t eat meat however we saw both animal on the menu in restaurants across the city. Alpaca can be served as a steak while guinea pigs are often served whole.

Picarones.  A fried potato based donut served with honey. 

Ocopa Sauce.  A yellow creamy sauce made from peppers, cilantro and cheese. It’s often used to cover potato and meat dishes. 

Chicha.  A fermented drink made from purple corn. It was popular during the Incan times and is still drank today by itself or as an ingredient in cocktails. 

Cusquena.  One of Peru’s national beers easily identifiable by its bottle cap with Machu Picchu on it and a bottle embossed in Incan stone work. It comes in three varieties, Dorado (Golden), Wheat and Negro (Stout). 

Chilcano.  A Peruvian cocktail made with Pisco, lime juice and ginger ale. We ordered the traditional version and one with passion fruit multiple times, even making our own using this recipe. 

• 2.5 oz Pisco (plain or with passion fruit)

• 0.5 oz Fresh lime juice

• 12 oz Ginger ale

• 2 dashes Angostura bitters

• Stir together with ice

San Camilo Market.  A central market with vendors selling selling fruit from towering shelves, baskets filled with potatoes, wheels of Peruvian cheese, aisles of freshly butchered with meat and fish, pillowy breads, purple and yellow chicha, bins of coca leaves and rows of textiles. We left with a bag of breads and fruits including dragonfruit, chermoya, pepinos melones, avocado and blueberries. 

Another reason to visit the market is for the street food and inexpensive lunches. We bought potato salteñas and empanadas from a vendor outside of the market and sat down at one of the restaurants inside for pescado frito con arroz verde and a cusquena, only spending 10 Sol per plate. 

Places to Eat and Drink

Chicha por Gaston Acurio.  An elegant restaurant with a warm terracotta colored interior lined with Peruvian clay pots and suspended basket lights. The menu includes traditional Peruvian cuisine like guinea pig and alpaca dishes, purple corn (chicha) different types of ceviche, chupe de camaron, picarones, Peruvian wine and cocktails like the pisco sour and chilcano. We came here with friends to celebrate Devin’s 30th birthday! 

La Huerta del Loncco.  A lunch spot with contemporary Peruvian dishes and a shaded outdoor patio overlooking the city. We ordered the choclo con queso, ceviche, potatoes and grilled seafood in ocopa sauce and queso salad. 

Dimas Restaurante.  A charming restaurant inside a vaulted white volcanic stone dining room with a range of Peruvian and international dishes. We shared the brocoli cream soup and tuna tartare made with avocado, mango and passion fruit. 

Zig Zag Restaurant.  A restaurant that specializes in meat dishes and wines. We came here to enjoy a carafe of sangria before dinner in their historic dining room built from white volcanic stones and a wrought iron spiral staircase designed by Gustave Eiffel.

Puku Puku Arequipa.  A rooftop cafe with views of the mountains and volcanos. We came here in the morning for breakfast pasties and ordered Peruvian roasted coffee brewed in a French press and Chemex. They also offer coffee brewed by Aeropress or espresso carafe. 

Amaray.  A cafe and restaurant on the second floor of an arched building overlooking the Plaza de Armas and Basilica of Arequipa. 

Museo del Pisco.  A Pisco bar in a historic building made from Arequipa’s iconic white stones. Come here to order Pisco cocktails, taste various types of Pisco or join mixology class.

Zingaro Wine Bar.  A wine bar and shop with Peruvian wines. We bought and shared multiple bottles from here including Vittoria Reserva Malbec from the Valle de Ica, Peru and Intipalka Vino Cabernet Sauvignon Syrah Réserva from the Valle de Sol, Peru. 

Sunset Rooftop Bar.  A rooftop bar at the Le Foyer Hotel with views of the sunset, city, mountains and volcanos. We came here for smoked chicha and Pisco cocktails.

Where to Stay

We stayed at two accommodations during our time in Arequipa. One Airbnb and a boutique hotel 

Historic Airbnb.  A spacious rental unit in a white volcanic stone and arched room. The public spaces included a living room, luggage lockers and kitchen. 

Le Foyer Arequipa.  A boutique hotel with simple rooms, luggage store and a rooftop bar. 

Katari Hotel At Plaza De Armas.  A luxury hotel in the central plaza with beautifully decorated rooms and a roof top restaurant. We visited a friend that was staying here. 

Location Specifics

Sand Flies.  An insect similar to mosquitos. They leave much larger welts after sucking blood.  They were present in October and November in Arequipa. 

Language.  Spanish is the most common and widely spoken language. Few people speak English. 

Cash vs Card. Both cash and card were widely accepted. Carry coins and small bills for street food and markets.

Elsewhere in Peru 

From colonial cities and landscapes to the Andes mountains, desert coast and Lake Titicaca, discover more of Peru beyond Arequipa through these travel guides: 

Peru Coast Travel Guide: Nazca Lines, Huacachina & Ancient Civilizations.  Explore Peru's desert coastline through mysterious Nazca Lines, oasis landscapes of Huacachina and ancient pre-Inca civilizations along the Pacific.

Peru Andes Travel Guide: Machu Picchu, Cusco & Inca Ruins.  Journey through the heart of the Andes to discover Machu Picchu, Cusco's historic streets, Sacred Valley landscapes and the legacy of the Inca Empire.

Lake Titicaca Travel Guide: Floating Islands & Indigenous Culture.  Experience the world's highest navigable lake through Indigenous communities, floating reed islands and ancient Andean traditions shared between Peru and Bolivia. 

For Next Time…

Next time we visit Arequipa, we plan to venture out of the city and see some of the regions most impressive sights.

• Reserva Nacional de Salinas y Aguada Blanca.  A high altitude nature reserve home to vicuñas, alpaca and flamingos with a dry grassy landscape, mountains, volcanos, salt water lagoons and rivers. We drove through here on our way to Cusco spotting large groups of vicuñas, llamas and alpaca grazing in the dry grassy terrain as well as bright pink flamingos contrasted against the dark color of the mountain lagoons. Along the road, as we continued into the Andes, we passed through small towns with indigenous Peruvians dressed in colorful attire and freshly shaved llamas wearing coats. 

• Colca Canyon.  The second deepest canyon in the world surrounded by steep mountains and snow covered volcanoes. We would love to visit to spot the condors, hike its trails, swim in the natural hot springs and raft in Colca River. 

• El Misti Volcano.  The prominent conical shaped volcano seen from Arequipa. We would love to take an overnight hike to reach its summit at an elevation over 19,000 ft. 

Peru Andes Travel Guide: Machu Picchu, Cusco & Inca Ruins

The Peruvian Andes

The Peruvian Andes is breathtaking region, both in altitude and natural beauty. Its mountainous landscape is covered in Incan ruins, snow covered peaks, colorful valleys and terraced farmland with herds of alpaca and llama. 

Cusco & The Incan Empire 

Within the mountains is the city of Cusco, a sprawling metropolis home to ruins of Incan empire and pre-colonial civilizations. It’s the branching off point for Machu Picchu and numerous sights in The Sacred Valley. Having previously visited Machu Picchu, we used our second trip into the Peruvian Andes to see sights we missed in Cusco and the Sacred Valley.

Machu Picchu

Hidden for centuries, Machu Picchu is known as The Lost City of the Incas. The sprawling ruins of the ancient acropolis rest atop a mountain set against the dramatic Andean landscape. The citadel is comprised of residential neighborhoods, layers of agricultural terraces, stone storage structures, ceremonial temples and a central plaza with free roaming llamas. We spent a half day meandering through the ruins of the city, observing it from scenic overlooks and hiking partly along the Inca Trail. 

Tips for Visiting:

Access.  When we visited in 2016, only 2,500 people were allowed to visit Machu Picchu per day. At the time, we were free to access most areas of the ancient city. As of 2024, the limit has been increased to 4,500 people and “circuits” have been established, regulating the specific areas visitors can access. 

Tickets. Book tickets months ahead of time. Given the new “circuits”, it’s best to visit over a two day period booking multiple tickets to see more of the ancient city. 

Inca Rail. One of the train companies offering roundtrip rides between Cusco and Machu Picchu through the Sacred Valley. The train has a vintage feel with green painted historic carriages and large viewing windows. 

Aguas Calientes

The town at the base of Machu Picchu with hotels, restaurants, bars, an artisan market and thermal hot springs. 

• Mercado Artesanal.  A sprawling artisan market with aisles of vendors selling Peruvian textiles, woven goods and souvenirs underneath a corrugated sheet metal roof. We haggled for baby alpaca blanket and hand painted coasters. 

• Baños Termales.  The thermal hot springs the town of Aguas Calientes is named after. We came here late in the afternoon to relax is the warm water pools before catching our train back to Cusco. 

• Imperio de los Incas.  A road along the Urubamba River with restaurants, bars and hotels overlooking the rapids and riverbank. 

Sacred Valley 

The Sacred Valley follows the Urubamba River from Cusco to Machu Picchu past some of the Incan Empire’s most important sights including: Pisac, Salineras de Maras, Moray Terraces and Ollantaytambo. We took a full day private tour from Cusco that brought us to all four sights. Book here!

Pisac Ruins

The Pisac Ruins are home to sprawling agricultural terraces covering the hillside leading to the ruins of a mountaintop city with a maze of stone buildings and staircases leading to its summit overlooking the valley. Along the terraces, llamas and alpacas roam free feeding on the grass. Behind the ancient city is a cemetery built into the vertical cliff with holes where the Incas would bury their dead.

Salineras de Maras

Salineras de Maras is a series of terraced salt pools ranging in color from white to light blue, beige and brown with thin layers of salty spring fed water covering their surfaces. Many of the terraces pre date the Incans and are still in use today for harvesting salt. There are routes with overlooks above the terraces to admire their beauty & structure. 

Moray Terraces

The Moray Terraces are series of circular and organic agricultural terraces built into a mountain valley by the Incans to test crop production. We walked around the terraces, following a series of trails that weave through them with views of the snow covered Andes Mountains in the background. The largest terrace is restored while the two small ones remain ruins. 

Ollantaytambo

Ollantaytambo is an Incan city built into the valley and up the mountainside with large agricultural terraces, grain storage buildings, a temple dedicated to the worship of the sun and winding hiking trails. We explored the ruins, hiking up the terraces to the Temple of the Sun and through the city. The stone roads, walls and irrigation canals from the Incan city remain and have been built upon by modern day Peruvians. The town has many hostels, restaurants, cafes and textile shops. 

Ñaupa Iglesia 

Ñaupa Iglesia is a hidden temple located above a terraced agricultural slope on the side of the mountain near Ollantaytambo. We hiked the terraces to a hidden temple with a niche and throne carved into the rock protruding from the entrance of a cave.

The Rainbow Mountain & Red Valley 

The Rainbow Mountain & Red Valley are two recently discovered geological rock formations In the Peruvian Andes with vibrantly colored sediment. 

The Rainbow Mountain

The Rainbow Mountain is a remote mountain in the Peruvian Andes with bands of oxidized minerals creating a rainbow effect in the soil. The view from the mountain’s summit is awe inspiring! At 5,036 meters (17,060 feet), the summit has views of the rainbow bands, moss covered valley and distant snow capped Andean mountains. It’s a popular destination with thousands of visitors per day coming to overlook the landscape. There are indigenous Peruvians with pairs of colorfully accessorized llamas posing for photos for a small donation. 

The Red Valley

The Red Valley is a valley with blood red soil and green moss spanning between two mountains on the other side of the rainbow mountain. The panoramic view from the crest overlooking the valley is a surreal experience that left us feeling tiny compared to the surrounding world. Along the trail, we passed colorful stones, vibrant green moss and observed magnificent views of the mountains and glaciers. It is far less touristy with less than a dozen visitors. 

Getting Here.‍ ‍We visited both the Rainbow Mountain and Red Valley on a small group guided tour from Cusco. It included transportation, breakfast and lunch. Starting at 4:30am, we drove from Cusco high into the Andes along narrow switchback roads, past terraced fields and countless llamas to reach the trail head. It took a 45 minute to hike uphill to reach the Rainbow Mountain and 25 minutes further to reach the Red Valley. We felt good enough to hike the trail but for those with altitude sickness, there are horses, motorbikes and quads for hire. Book here!

Cusco, Peru 

Cusco is a modern city at the heart of the Incan Empire in Andes Mountains with archeological ruins, historic neighborhoods, museums and beautiful landscapes. 

Neighborhoods

San Blas Neighborhood.  A trendy yet quiet neighborhood with ancient Incan roads, steep staircases and narrow cobblestone streets home to a variety of cafes, restaurants, boutiques, art galleries, tattoo shops and small convenience stores.  Many of the buildings are painted white with blue wooden doors, wall hung planters and vibrant murals. The neighborhood is close to several Incan ruins, the central plaza and has panoramic views of the Cusco Valley, its clay tiled roofs by day and twinkling lights at night.

Coripata.  A bustling local neighborhood, you won’t spot another tourist here! There are women selling boiled quail eggs, fresh juice, wheel barrels and blankets with fruit, fried plantain chips and ice-cream from carts.

Santa Catalina.  A quieter local neighborhood with an arch along its main road, chain hostels, stray dogs and city views. There’s not much going on in terms of restaurants, cafes, bars or nightlife. 

Centro Historico.  The central neighborhood of Cusco is home to the grand plazas, large stone cathedrals, historic architecture, Peruvian restaurants, clothing shops, souvenir stores and hotels. It’s a touristy area with peddlers calling you into their restaurants, trying to sell something or offering massages.

Visit the Incan Ruins

Cusco, the center of the Incan Empire is home to numerous ruins, ancient stone streets and former temples. We walked across the city visiting several of the sights during our stay. 

Sacsayhuaman.  The citadel of the Incan empire with a large stone fortress, royal thrones, carved rock temples, agricultural terraces and aqueducts. 

• Muyuq Marka. The central fortress made from three terraced stone walls shaped in a zig zag pattern with stone gates, guard posts, astronomical temples and platforms to store water. 

• Trono del Inca.  A rock formation with thrones carved into it overlooking the fortress and Cusco valley.

• Explanada.  A central field with views of the stone walls and throne, home to a small heard of grazing alpacas. 

• Rodadero.  A rock formation used as a stone quarry with section of carved stone, upside down stairs and a natural slide polished smooth over hundreds of years by people sliding down it. We joined the locals and slid down its surface with ease. 

• Chincana Chica.  An underground cave leading through a narrow stone passageway used by the Incas for worship and storage. 

• Qochas Chincanas.  A circular arena with a grassy field and stone bleachers surrounding it used for celebrations and sacrifices. 

Q’enco.  Stone ruins of a ceremonial sight used by the Incas to sacrifice humans and animals. We followed a guided path through an amphitheater used to watch sacrifices, past observation thrones, stone sacrificial beds, pools for blood to accumulate, through caves used to leave offerings and a canal for blood to flow along, including one shaped like a snake. The top is forbidden to walk on. 

Q’enco Chico.  A smaller ceremonial sight below Q’enco used for the same sacrificial purposes. Unlike Q’enco, this sight can be walked on and explored more freely. Today, it’s a popular picnic sight. 

Calle Hatunrumiyoc.  A historic street with Incan stone walls on both sides. It’s a good place to see the complexity of the stonework made by the Incans. The most prominent feature is, Piedra de los 12 Angulos, a large stone carved with 12 corners and perfectly fitted with the surrounding stones. 

Calle de Siete Culebras.  An Incan street with stone walls and carvings of snakes. 

Qorikancha Temple (Golden Temple of the Sun).  The ruins of an Incan temple dedicated to the worship of the sun. Prior to the Spanish conquest, the temple was plated in gold. It was stripped off and a cathedral was built on top of its walls. The temple remains mostly intact and can be toured from within the cathedral. We climbed the bell tower of the cathedral overlooking Cusco. 

Sapantiana Aqueduct.  An ancient stone aqueduct bridge and canal used to transport water by the Incas and still used today.

See the Sights & Museums

Plaza Mayor.  The central plaza in Cusco with two large cathedrals, balcony lined buildings, flowering gardens and a central monument dedicated to the Incas. It is a hub for restaurants, tour companies, massage parlors, textile stores and souvenir shops.

Cusco Cathedral.  The cathedral at the south side of Plaza Mayor with an ornate stone facade and two large bell towers. We toured the gold gilded interior, visited the crypt and climbed to the second level of both bell towers overlooking the plaza. 

Museo de Arte Pre-Colombia.  A museum dedicated to the pre-Colombian civilizations and cultures of ancient Peru. The ground floor galleries separate artifacts by the material they are made from including shell, silver, gold, wood, stone and ceramic. The second floor galleries separate artifacts by the regions and cultures of ancient Peru through Incan times to the Spanish conquest. 

Qorikancha Museum.  An underground museum beneath the lawn outside of the QorikanchaTemple with artifacts including ceramics, textiles, mummified remains and skulls with surgical markings and deformations. The museum exits through the lawn with the ruins of Incan stones and an aqueduct.  

Plaza San Blas.  A plaza with a large fountain, church, small museums, an artisan market and shops

Mirador San Blas.  A romantic plaza with views of the neighborhood and Cusco. Couples attach love locks to the rails and make out on the park benches. 

The San Cristobal Viewpoint.  A scenic lookout above Cusco with panoramic views of the clay tiled roofs of the city, the stone cathedrals and the distant hillside. 

The Cristo Blanco View Point.  A lookout high above the city with a small white painted copy of Rio’s Christ the Redeemer.

Shop the Markets 

San Blas Market.  A small neighborhood market catering to a mix of locals, expats and backpackers with vendors offering a robust mix of fresh produce, vegetables, meats, fish, dairy and dry goods. We bought a variety of Peruvian potatoes, squash, fruits, Andean cheese, eggs, milk, butter, flour and yeast to cook meals throughout the week. 

The market is the perfect spot for a local lunch with restaurants serving Peruvian and vegan cuisine. We ate at Cevicheria de Yanet, sharing a bowl of mixed ceviche made with squid, trout and mackerel. It came with sides of chicharon de calamari, seafood soup, canchas and homemade chicha. 

San Pedro Market.  A large and colorful market with vendors selling handicrafts, fruits, vegetables, grains, herbal remedies, snacks, candies, flowers and meats. The meat market is a bit intense with butchers selling whole pigs, skinned horse heads, bloody bull horns and organs. 

The most popular reason to come here is for the fresh juices, Peruvian style street food and aisles of small restaurant stands. The cooks at each stand called for us to sit down, competing with their neighbors, as we walked past the benches of customers and busy kitchens with large steaming pots. After scanning the menus, we sat down and ordered a plate of fried trout with lentils, rice, salad and a bowl of vegetable soup for 8 Sols each. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Fusion Andina.  A restaurant overlooking Plaza Mayor and the city’s hillside with a menu of Peruvian and Andean cuisine. We came here for dinner, overlooking the twinkling lights of the city at night while sipping on Peruvian wine. The menu includes dishes made with Andean trout, alpaca and guinea pig.  

Ofrenda Peruvian Healthy Food.  A Peruvian restaurant with colorful and beautifully plated meals and desserts. Come for the causas, ceviche, cheesecake and chocolate cake.

Cafe Dwasi.  Come here for their specialty coffee, cappuccinos with llama artwork foam and breakfast dishes like pancakes or omelets. 

Kaldi Coffee.  A café and bar in San Blas with a rooftop views of Cusco, artisan coffees, empanadas, ice cream and cocktails. 

Cafetoe.  A coffee shop on the corner of Plaza Mayor with balconies overlooking it. We came here one chilly night for a Peruvian hot chocolate, made from milk and cocoa powder

ERA.  A rooftop bar in San Blas above the Mirador de San Blas overlooking Cusco. Come here for the 2 x 30 Sol happy hour with Pisco cocktails.

Something Special.  A restaurant and bar with views overlooking the clay tiled roofs, plaza mayor and Viva El Peru sign. We ordered a chicha Pisco sour and Cervesa Raymi, an artisan Cusco brewed beer.

Pizzos.  Come here for the clay oven pizzas and cocktails. They have a 2 x 25 Sol happy hour for regular and flavored Pisco Sours.

KM.0.  A restaurant and cocktail bar with a long list of drinks and a 2 x 28 Sol happy hour. 

Barden.  A bar and restaurant with a terrace overlooking Cusco and a garden with warm string lights suspended from the trees above. 

Peruvian & Andean Cuisine

Coca Tea.  The popular Peruvian herbal tea made from the leaves of the coca plant used to combat altitude sickness. After drinking the tea, it’s common to chew on the leaves for their medicinal properties.

Trout.  Andean trout is populous in the high mountain lakes and rivers. It’s served grilled, fried and as ceviche. 

Potatoes.  Peru is known for having thousands of variety of potatoes. They’re served mashed in causas, fried and in soups & stews. 

Choclo con Queso.  Boiled Peruvian corn wrapped in a grilled piece of Peruvian cheese. 

Alpaca & Guinea Pig.  We don’t eat meat however we saw both animal on the menu in restaurants across the city. Alpaca can be served as a steak while guinea pigs are often served whole.

Tumbo.  A popular Peruvian fruit that’s a cross between a passion fruit and pomegranate. 

Cherimoya.  A green scalloped tropical fruit with a custardy interior and large black seeds with a taste similar to strawberry ice cream.

Cusqueña.  One of Peru’s national beers easily identifiable by its bottle cap with Machu Picchu on it and a bottle embossed in Incan stone work. It comes in three varieties, Dorado (Golden), Wheat and Negro (Stout). 

Inka Chips.  A local brand of potato chips made from Peruvian potatoes. 

Where to Stay

Inti Wasy.  We stayed at an Airbnb in San Blas neighborhood with panoramic views of the Cusco Valley. The private apartment had a comfy bed, well outfitted kitchen and laundry machine. The space feels authentic with Incan and Peruvian decor. We were thankful to have an incredibly kind host and family of doggies to greet us throughout our stay. Book here!

Cusco Plaza Hostel.  A boutique hotel on the corner of the Plaza Mayor in the city center. We visited a friend of ours staying here. The rooms are basic but the rooftop is a tranquil place to enjoy a bottle of Peruvian wine and the views of the city’s rooftops and cathedrals. Book here!

Location Specifics

The Boleto de Touristo.  A ticket that includes entry to a majority of the Incan ruins in Cusco and the surrounding valleys as well as several museums in the city. Tickets can only be purchased by cash in person at the tourist office one block from the Plaza de Armas

The Altitude.  Cusco is 3,339 meters (11,152 ft) above sea level. It takes some adjusting to get used to. After a few days, we no longer felt winded or tired. 

Language.  People in Cusco speak Spanish. Outside of the restaurants and shops in the Centro Historico, few locals speak English. 

Cash vs. Card.  Cash is preferred at businesses and museums across Cusco. When using Peruvian Sols, make sure to carry small bills and coins.

Elsewhere in Peru 

From the peaks of the Andes and Machu Picchu to Peru's desert coast, colonial cities and high altitude lakes, continue exploring Peru's diverse landscapes and cultures through these travel guides:

Peru Coast Travel Guide: Nazca Lines, Huacachina & Ancient Civilizations.  Explore Peru's desert coastline through mysterious Nazca Lines, oasis landscapes of Huacachina and ancient pre-Inca civilizations along the Pacific.

Arequipa Peru Travel Guide: Colonial Architecture, Food & Culture.  Wander through Peru's "White City," where volcanic stone architecture, colonial plazas and rich culinary traditions define southern Peruvian culture.

Lake Titicaca Travel Guide: Floating Islands & Indigenous Culture.  Experience the world's highest navigable lake through Indigenous communities, floating reed islands and ancient Andean traditions shared between Peru and Bolivia. 

For Next Time…

Return to Machu Picchu.  We visited the ancient Incan city in 2016, passing it by on our recent trip to Cusco. When we return for a third tome, we would love to revisit the awe inspiring world wonder that is Machu Picchu. 

Ollantaytambo.  Our tour of the Sacred Valley did not include enough time at Ollantaytambo. Next time, we plan to stay at one of the hostels and take at least an entire day to explore the ruins, mountain trials and terraces. 

Skylodge.  Having seen the iconic cliffside hotel made from geometric glass pods suspended from the mountainside, we fully intend of staying here during our next trip to the Sacred Valley. 

Visit The South Valley.  We had a tour booked to visit the Incan and Wari ruins in the South Valley but couldn’t make it due to an emergency. This will be one of the first sights we see next time in Cusco. 

The Mountain Lakes.  Due to melting ice, several mountain lakes and lagoons have formed over the past decades. The most famous are Humantay Lake with turquoise waters and Laguna Roja with chocolaty red waters. 

Salar de Uyuni Travel Guide: Salt Flats, Lagoons & Desert Landscapes

Bolivia’s Desert Landscapes

The Bolivian Desert hosts some of South America’s most stunning natural sights. Within its expanse are the world’s largest salt flats, a staggering number of volcanos, colorful lagoons, abstract desert rock formations, geysers and hot springs. We spent four days road tripping across the desert, traveling hundreds of miles from La Paz and ending in the Chilean Atacama Desert. 

The Uyuni Salt Flats

The Uyuni Salt Flats are the largest salt flats on the planet in the high Andes of Bolivia. We visited during the dry season when the salt created crusty white geometric patterns across the vast landscape. 

After taking an overnight bus from La Paz, we drove far into the salt flats, away from civilization, where it was eerily quiet. We looked across the landscape admiring the bright white salt contrasted against the deep blue sky with silhouettes of volcanos and mountains on the horizon. Mirages formed making it appear as if some mountains were floating. Off of our peripheral, spiraling dust devils lurked in the distance while lighting from a storm latticed from dark clouds above the Andes. 

Due to the vast flatness, one of the big draws is to take forced perspective photos! Our guide took multiple of us and our group.

Isla Incahuasi

Isla Incahuasi is a volcanic island in the middle of the Uyuni Salt Flats covered in cacti, fossilized coral and stromatolites from when the area was a saltwater sea. A trail across the island leads to its summit with panoramic views of the salt flats and mountains in the distance. We visited in the southern spring (November) when many of the cacti were blossoming with white tuft-like flowers. Some of the cacti are over 1,000 years old and can live up to 2,500 years.

The Train Graveyard

The Train Graveyard of rusted out track vintage train engines and cars. While here, we climbed on and inside the relics, snapping a few photos for the gram. It’s typically the first stop on any Uyuni tour.

(Off) Road Trip 

After Uyuni, we began our road trip across the Bolivian Desert down a bumpy dirt road past golden brown craggily fields with salt deposits, short dry shrubs and the cutest wild vicuñas. A cloud of dust followed us while no other cars were to be seen for many miles emphasizing the remoteness of the landscape. Reddish brown volcanic mountain ranges carry across the horizon reaching towards the blue sky painted with wispy white clouds. We continued for the next two days, visiting volcanic lookouts, colorful lagoons, desert rock formations and geothermal areas. 

Bolivia’s Volcanos 

The Coral Garden.  Our first stop brought us to an ancient coral garden. The landscape is covered in fossilized coral formations with jagged edges and tubular structures pushed up from the sea to 3,700 meters by the Andes over the past 11 million years. No longer home to marine life, small lizards, doves and mice inhabit the corals surrounded by prickly desert shrubs. 

Chiguana Salt Flat.  Our second stop brought us to the Chiguana Salt Flat surrounded by dozens of volcanos along the Bolivia/Chile boarder. We continued through extremely rugged and bumpy off roads across the desert while admiring the volcanic landscape as we slowly climbed in altitude. 

Ollagüe Volcano Viewpoint.  At 4,200 meters, we stopped to look over the volcanic landscape and Bolivia’s only semi-active volcano, Ollagüe Volcano. We walked along ancient lava flows and past nodules of vibrant green moss to the lookout. The caldera of the volcano is colored greenish yellow by sulphur while a cloud of steam steadily releases from it. The view point had a restroom, cafe and small shop. We enjoyed a coca tea and bought coca beer, coca chocolate and roasted snacks. 

Bolivia’s Lagoons 

Laguna Cañapa.  A salty lagoon surrounded by volcanos with a colony of pink and white flamingos feeding on microorganisms in the water. We watched through binoculars as some flamingos strutted up to the waters muddy edge showing off their pink necks and tail feathers. 

Laguna Hedionda.  A large salt lake with hues of blue, green and yellow in front of a towering volcano. The lagoon is a feeding ground for a large population of pink and white flamingos.

Laguna Chiar Khota.  A lagoon in a valley with pale blue water, salty shores and patches of yellow sulphur with flocks of feeding flamingos.

Laguna Colorada.  A vast and shallow salt lake with red tinted water, a large population of flamingos and four volcanos flanking each side of the lagoon. Wild vicuñas roam the yellow grass tufted hills surrounding the lagoon. 

Laguna Verde.  A greenish hued saltwater lagoon set against the backdrop of two cone shaped volcanoes. It’s home to feeding pink flamingos.

Rock Formations

Roca de Viscachas.  A volcanic formation of eroded sheets of rock home to Vizcacha, a chinchilla like rodent and tiny mice.

Valle de Rocas.  A valley of rocks that have been eroded by wind speeds of 130km and freezing temperatures of -25C creating a unique formations of split and splintered rock. Two of the most iconic formations are the mushroom and Arbol de Piedra. 

The Dali Desert.  A desert with a surreal landscape that resembles one of Salvador Dali’s paintings. Large rocks rest upright along an ancient lava flow from a volcano that’s profile resembles the face of an elephant. 

Geothermal Activity 

Sol de Mañana Geysers.  A series of steam vents, bubbling pools of mud and sulphuric deposits covering the barren desert landscape. We walked between the smelly and steaming vents, warming our hands in the below freezing temperatures at nearly 5,000 meters above sea level. 

Aguas Termales de Polques.  A natural hot spring with two steaming pools at the edge of a saltwater lagoon. We relaxed here for half an hour, at one point having the pool entirely to ourselves. 

Where to Stay 

Hotel Warara.  A salt hotel on with walls, decor, tables and bed frames all made from salt blocks, plaster and crystals. We stayed here one night during our tour of the Uyuni Salt Flats and Bolivian Desert. 

Hostel San Marcelo.  A hostel in a small village on the other side of the Laguna Colorada. The rooms are basic but have twin beds, layers of warm blankets for the cold nights and shared restrooms. The hostel lacks electricity & wifi.

Perla de Bolivia

We visited the Uyuni Salt Flats and sights across the Bolivian Desert with Perla de Bolivia. On the four day tour from La Paz, Bolivia to San Pedro de Atacama, Chile. The tour included transportation, accommodations, guides, meals, snacks, water, including vegetarian options. Book here!

Elsewhere in Bolivia

From the endless salt flats of Uyuni to the Indigenous traditions of Lake Titicaca and the mountain ringed streets of La Paz, discover more of Bolivia through these travel guides: 

La Paz Bolivia Travel Guide: Cable Cars, Markets & Mountain Views.  Experience Bolivia's dynamic capital through bustling markets, panoramic cable car rides, mountain vistas and rich local culture.

Lake Titicaca Travel Guide: Floating Islands & Indigenous Culture.  Explore the sacred waters of Lake Titicaca through Indigenous traditions, island communities, ancient history and high altitude landscapes.