Chiang Mai Travel Guide: Old City, Temples & Night Markets

Chiang Mai, Thailand

Chiang Mai is an ancient city in Northern Thailand with crumbling ruins, historic sights, impressive Buddhist wats and access to flowing waterfalls, national parks and elephant sanctuaries. The city has a bohemian vibe to it with night markets, worldly backpackers and vegan restaurants. We spent a week here exploring the city and taking multiple day trips to several cultural and natural sights. 

Chiang Mai Old City

The old city of Chiang Mai is surrounded by a mote and sections of a crumbling red brick wall dating back 700 years. Its winding streets are lined with two floor old wooden houses, ancient Buddhist wats, Thai restaurants, small bars, coffee shops and boutique hotels. Sprawling night markets attract thousands of visitors for their cultural significance, array of street food and locally made goods.

Old City Wall.  The old city is surrounded by a square mote and the ruins of a crumbling brick wall dating back over 700 years. All four corners have rounded defensive towers that were once used to protect the city. On each side are various gates still used today by both pedestrians and vehicles. 

Tha Phae Gate.  The east gate to the Old City. Its wooden doors are flanked by a large red brick wall. It’s a popular photo spot with hundreds of pigeons. It’s the entrance to the Sunday Night Market. It can only be entered on foot. 

Hua Lin Corner.  A defensive corner once home to an ancient aqueduct that channeled water from a natural spring over the mote and into the Old City. It’s located at the northwest corner. 

Buddhist Wats & Temples

Chiang Mai is an ancient Buddhist city with dozens of wats, many dating back over 700 years to the city’s founding. Golden buddhas, wooden meditation halls, towering stupas, dragon staircases and ornate designs are some of the few characteristics that distinguish this city’s wats. 

Wat Chedi Luang Varavihara.  A sacred and ancient temple complex in Chiang Mai’s old city. It’s home to the ruins of a giant brick chedi, the pillar of the city, a buddhist temple and university. 

• The Chedi.  A pyramid style structure made from red bricks with statues of elephants along its first level and shrines with golden Buddhas on top. Its tower was destroyed during an earthquake hundred of years prior. 

• Chiang Mai City Pillar Shrine.  One of the most sacred sights in the Old City. It houses an ornate “pillar” with a gilded statue of the buddha on top. Its interior is adorned in vibrant and colorful stories of the city’s history and temples as well as teaching of the Buddha. 

• Buddhist Chapel.  A large pagoda style hall with an ornately painted red and gold entrance guarded by dragon steps. Inside is a buddhist shine inside, worshipers and seated monks. 

Wat Lok Molee.  A large Lanna style temple made entirely of wood. It’s one of the few surviving structures of its kind to remain from the ancient times. Its entrance is decorated in an ornate black and white design, flanked by stone elephants and dragon steps. Monk novices can often be seen tending to the grounds. Behind it is a Chedi housing the remains of a former Lanna Kingdom ruler. Worshipers come here to make offerings of water. 

Wat Chiang Mun.  An ancient temple complex and the oldest in the Old City with multiple notable structures. 

• Main Chapel.  A pagoda style building with a tiered and layered roof, ornate golden entrance and red accents. It’s a classic example of Lanna style architecture. 

• Secondary Chapel.  A smaller building displaying two tiny statues of the buddha. One made of crystal dating back 2,000 years and one made of marble dating back 2,500 years. 

• Elephant Chedi.  A pyramid shaped chedi with a golden tower and base surrounded by life size stone elephants. 

• Buddhist Library.  A small wooden temple housing buddhist texts built on stilts above a koi pond with a dragon bridge leading to its entrance. 

Wat Phan Tao.  A pagoda style temple made entirely of teak wood. It has a traditional stepped and tiered roof with gold painted cornices and a finely detailed entrance. It’s one of the few surviving structures of its kind to remain from the ancient times. 

Wat Rajamontean.  A newer Buddhist wat in the Old City across the mote from Wat Lot Molee. Its main meditation hall features intricate designs and gold ornamentation. Seated outside is a large statue of the Buddha wearing golden robes. 

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep.  A mountaintop Buddhist wat overlooking the city of Chiang Mai. It’s famous for its 300 step dragon stairway surrounded by forest. The temple is decorated in ornately painted red and golden designs, features multi-tiered roofs, marble floors, statues of the buddha and golden chedi at its center. Its walls depict beautiful paintings of buddhist stories and teachings. The city views were obscured by wildfire smoke when we visited. 

Wat Phra Singh Woramahawihan.  A Lanna style Buddhist wat with a large meditation hall guarded by two golden dragons, ancient wooden temples and multiple bell shaped golden stupas. Ornate patterns, intricate designs and gold leaf cover many of the building’s historic facades. 

Wat Sri Suphan (The Silver Pagoda).  A contemporary Buddhist wat built in the ancient Lanna style from white metals like silver, aluminum and nickel. Every surface is covered in hammered metal tiles and ornamentation. It features classic images and reliefs of Buddhist stories and mythical creatures as well as depictions of maps, international cities, world monuments, human evolution, aliens and ufos. Women are forbidden from entering.

Chiang Mai Markets 

Chiang Mai Gate Market.  An all day market with farm stands in the morning and street food vendors during the afternoon and evenings. We shopped here for groceries, buying fruits, vegetables, herbs, spices, rice and noodles. Merchants pack up by 11am however street food vendors stick around all day. The market comes to life at night with dozens of food carts serving Thai and regional asian cuisine. It’s exceptionally fun to visit on Saturday nights. It’s located at the south gate to the Old City. 

Chiang Mai Night Markets.  The night markets in Chiang Mai are some of the best we’ve been to in Asia for their authentically handmade goods, wide array of street food, affordable prices and overall ambience. They start in the late afternoon and continue until around midnight. 

• Wua Lai Walking Street (Saturday Night Market).  A 1km street with hundreds of vendors selling locally made handicrafts like indigo dyed clothing, elephant figurines, jade jewelry, customizable passport holders, paper fans, lanterns and parasols. Food vendors sell the region’s staple egg noodle soup, Khao Soi and Thai favorites like pineapple fried rice, mango sticky rice and rolled ice cream. Other common dishes such close stir fried rice noodle, pan fried dumplings, grilled skewers with meats, seafood and veggies, boiled crabs, sushi, mochi and fresh coconuts. The street is primary “things” vendors while the wats host street food carts, kitchens and dining areas. 

• Sunday Night Market.  A night market held on Sunday nights along the 1km stretch of road between Wat Phra Singh Woramahawihan and the Tha Phae Gate on Rachadamneon Road. It’s one of the largest and liveliest night markets in Chiang Mai. It hosts many of the same handicrafts and street food vendors as the Saturday Night Market. 

Chiang Rai

Chiang Rai is the ancient capital of the Lanna Kingdom with multiple modern day buddhist temples. We visited three of them on a full day trip here from Chiang Mai. 

Wat Rong Khun (The White Temple).  A contemporary temple complex with several buildings including meditation halls, art galleries and stupas. Most buildings are painted white and accented with contours of mirrored mosaic tiles. The main temple, is the most impressive with its highly ornamented designs and finely detailed embellishments. It’s surrounded by a grassy lawn and koi pond. Within are paintings of the buddha, superheroes, modern day cities and the apocalypse. Photos inside are forbidden. Several other buildings are still undergoing construction, lacking ornamentation while others are fully painted gold. 

Wat Rong Seur Ten (The Blue Temple).  A newly constructed Buddhist temple painted royal blue and painted in gold airbrush ornamentation. Its interior is equally as unique with blue colored surfaces covered in various designs and paintings with a large glossy white statue of the Buddha. Like the white temple, it was designed to be “one of a kind.” 

Wat Sang Kaew Phothiyan (The Light Temple).  A modern day temple with a kaleidoscope of colorful and gilded statues of the Buddha, Buddhist monks, Hindu deities and mythical creatures. Stairways lead around the mostly open air temple with multiple Lanna style structures still under construction. 

Getting Here.  Chaing Rai is located in far northern Thailand about three hours from Chiang Mai. We booked a full day tour here with TripGuru Thailand on Viator. 

Doi Inthanon 

Doi Inthanon is a national park home to royal stupas, hiking trails, waterfalls and the tallest point in Thailand. We visited the park and a local village during a day trip with WanderSiam through Viator. 

The Great Holy Relics Pagodas.  Near the summit of Doi Inthanon are two pagodas dedicated to former king and queen of Thailand. Each bell shaped pagoda is surrounded by colorful flowering gardens with views overlooking the Thai Kingdom. Inside the king’s pagoda is a Buddhist shrine recounting the life and story of the Buddha. Inside the queen’s pagoda is a Buddhist shine containing relics of the Buddha including a hair and items from his time. 

Mae Klang Waterfall.  A large cascading waterfall running down a series of rocky ledges and boulders at the base of Doi Inthanon National Park. A brief trail leads from the parking lot to its viewing point. Adjacent to the parking lot is a bridge over the river and several riverside restaurants with bamboo dining platforms and inner tube rentals. 

Wachirathan Waterfall.  A large waterfall flowing over a steep cliff with a series of small cascading falls and rapids below. Even during the dry season, the waterfall had a strong current creating a cloud of mist. 

The Highest Spot in Thailand.  At the summit of Doi Inthanon National Park is the highest spot in Thailand, measuring  2,565 meters (8,415 feet) above sea level. As this height, the air is substantially cooler and clearer. A small chedi, housing the remains of the last Lanna Kingdom’s ruler. 

Ang Ka Nature Trail.  A boardwalk through the cloud forest near the highest spot in Thailand. The trail passes through a microenvironment with a small peat swamp, moss covered trees, threatened species of birds and plaques warning about the damages of climate change.

Thai Hmong Community Market.  A roadside market with vendors from the Hmong Village selling fresh and candied fruits, baked and fried snacks, roasted nuts, dried teas, pure honey and fruit wine. The hillsides surrounding the village and market are lined with terraced farmland. 

Karen Village.  The Karen people are an ethnic group native to the regions of Myanmar and Northern Thailand. We visited one mountainside village home to about 300 people. We toured their community of wooden and bamboo houses, visited a textile workshop selling handwoven scarves made on backstrap looms and a cafe serving locally grown coffees and teas. On our walk through the village, we saw coffee crops and gardens with dragon fruit, banana, avocado and mulberry trees. 

Buatong Waterfall

Buatong Waterfall cascades down a calcified structure that flows from a natural cold spring down the lush hillside in the middle of the tropical forest. A wooden staircase and boardwalk leads from the top of the waterfall to the bottom level with a natural swimming pool. A rope trail leads up the waterfall allowing visitors to walk up its calcified surfaces. We walked from the third level to the top, gripping onto the course calcified formations as the water rushed past. 

Pro Tip.  Do not try to walk down the waterfall. It’s easiest to walk barefoot and test your footing before taking the following step. Use the ropes for support. 

Getting Here. We took a Songthaew from the Old City to the waterfall for 1,000 Bhat roundtrip. The drive took 1h 15min one way and the driver waited for 1h 30min while we visited. 

Elephant Sanctuaries 

Chiang Mai Elephant Home.  A sanctuary home to rescued and juvenile elephants. The property features farmed grasslands, bamboo and banana trees where the elephants are given time to graze and wander. They cool down in a passing river and cover themselves in mud pools to protect from the sun and insects. The elephants are well treated and supervised by mahouts who manage their care. When given time to rest, they are kept it shaded pavilions and continually fed. One of the most incredible sights was seeing the juvenile elephant breast feed from its mother. We got to feed the elephants sugarcane and bananas, walk alongside them and bathe them in the river. It was a memorable experience getting to interact with these gentile giants and their playful juvenile. Book Online or at their Office in person. 

Ethical Elephant Sanctuaries.  When visiting an elephant sanctuary, there are a few ethical considerations to keep in mind depending on your own views and personal levels of comfort. 

• Ethical sanctuaries are places that take care of elephants, educate visitors about their conservation, don’t cause them harm or profit from their captivity. 

• Avoid fake “sanctuaries” that offer elephant riding.

• Most sanctuaries rescue former riding and work elephants, providing them with a better life than they had before. They’re often domesticated and still respond to trained phrases. 

• The unfortunate truth is that most elephants are likely chained up when visitors are not around to prevent them from escaping. 

• There are few wild elephants remaining in Thailand due to human conflict and loss of their natural habitat. 

• The most ethical sanctuaries minimize human contact by only allowing observation. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Vegan Society Restaurant.  A vegan restaurant in a historic wooden house with an outdoor dining room. Their menu offers Thai dishes like green, red and massaman curries, pad see ew, khao soi, tom yum tofu and mango sticky rice. 

Single Origin Store.  A coffee shop nearby The Phae Gate specializing in high quality coffee beans grown and roasted in Thailand. 

Nophaburi Bar Thai Cocktail.  A hole in the wall cocktail bar with a funky atmosphere and one of a kind drinks. Their cocktails are made with 100 percent Thai spirits, primarily rums and gins, mixed with unique and local ingredients. The menu is sectioned by flavor profiles like spirit forward, fruity and complex & sweet and sour. Try the Manop for something spiced and strong or the La Moon for something fruity and tropical. 

Hardcocktail Bar.  An open air bar with inexpensive drinks including classic and signature cocktails. It’s a popular spot with locals, expats and backpackers. Like many first time patrons, we were lured in by the suggestive name. Try the boozy Long Island or Made in Chiang Mai. 

Lost Hut Cocktail Bar.  A small tiki style dive bar tucked into a corner of the Old City. Come here for their daily 5-9pm happy hour with 100 Bhat mai tais, mojitos and margaritas.

Thai Cuisine 

From regional dishes, to street food and classic meals, Chiang Mai is one of the best places to enjoy Thai cuisine. 

Khao Soi.  A popular egg noodle soup made with coconut broth and flavored with warm spices, Thai chilis, fish sauce and shallots. It originates from Chiang Mai and seen on menus across the city. 

Pad Thai.  A world renowned rice noodle dish famed for its tangy and sweet sauce paired with peanuts, scallion, bean sprouts and chili pepper. 

Pad See Ew.  A noodle dish with exact same flavor profiles as Pad Thai but made with wide rice noodles. 

Thai Curry.  A combination of red, green and yellow curries made with a range of hot and savory spices, coconut milk and rice noodles. 

Tom Yum Goong Nam Kon.  A flavorful spicy and sour Thai soup made with lime juice, lemon grass, galangal root, kaffir lime leaves and evaporated milk. It’s often paired with shrimp or prawn. 

Spring Rolls.  Crispy and flaky rolled or deep fried dough filled with veggies and herbs typically served with a sweet and spicy sauce. 

Pineapple Fried Rice.  Stir-fried rice cooked with diced pineapple, umami forward sauces and choice of protein like tofu, chicken or pork.   

Mango Sticky Rice.  A simple and delicious staple of Thai cuisine made from sticky rice paired with freshly sliced mango. The rice is often flavored with sweetened condensed milk or a herbal syrup. 

Rolled Ice Cream (Thai Ice Cream).  Cream poured over a chilled surface and aggressively mixed together with toppings, thinly spread and scraped up into small rolls of ice cream. 

Thai Iced Tea.  A classic Thai beverage made from brewed black tea and mixed with milk and sugar. It’s often flavored with star anise and cardamom. Try it with boba pearl. 

Chang Beer.  A national beer, popular across the country. It’s recognizable by two elephants on its label.

Getting to Chiang Mai 

The Overnight Train.  The best way to reach Chiang Mai from Bangkok is on the overnight train. We booked second class seats that folded down into bunk beds. They were plenty spacious to store our luggage, comfortable for a full night’s rest, privately curtained off and clean with fresh sheets and pillows. Each car has 38 seats/beds, its own restroom and large windows overlooking the landscape. A cook offers dinner and breakfast service. We ordered fruit, coffee, rice soup and spring rolls for the following morning. 

We booked our tickets online about two weeks in advance with the State Railroad of Thailand departing from Krung Thep Aphiwat Station in Bangkok and arriving at Chiang Mai Station 12 hours later. 

Getting Around 

Songthaew.  A red pickup truck with a covered back and two benches for passengers. They operate as shared and private taxis, bringing locals and tourists around Chiang Mai and to further away destinations. They’re inexpensive with fares costing 30 - 40 Bhat per person to get around the city. The cost for further away destinations varies however it’s cheaper per person depending on the number passengers. They’re easy to find. typically waiting nearby the Old Town gates but can be flagged down anywhere on the street.

• Getting to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. Songthaews cost 500 Bhat roundtrip for two people from the Old City. The trip takes 45min one way. The driver will wait for 1h while you visit. 

• Getting to Buatong Waterfall. Songthaews cost 1,000 Bhat roundtrip for two people from the Old City. The trip takes 1h 15min one way. The driver will wait for 1h 30min while you visit. 

On Foot.  The Old City and surrounding neighborhoods are easily walkable. Getting around on foot is one of the best ways to explore Chiang Mai and find hidden sights. 

By Grab.  Grab is a taxi hailing app used across South East Asia. It’s a good way to get around with luggage both to and from the train station or airport. 

Where to Stay

We stayed at a beautiful studio in the Old City. It had a spacious interior with its own kitchen, living area and a shared outdoor patio. It was the perfect spot to explore the narrow and winding streets, discover cafes, restaurant and cocktail bars, visit the night markets and nearby wats. Book on Airbnb. 

Location Specifics

Dress Modestly.  Visitors are asked to cover the legs and shoulders when visiting most religious sights. If wearing shorts, it’s smart to carry a sarong. 

Footwear.  It’s generally expected that one removes their footwear before entering a Buddhist sight, house or public restroom. Typically slippers are provided for the latter. 

Men Only Sights.  Some wats like the Silver Pagoda and Inthakhin Pillar Vihara do not allow women inside. 

Language.  Thai is the national language of Thailand , however most people know and speak some English. 

Cash Payments.  Cash is the primary method of payment. Very few places accept credit other than debit card.

Drinking Water.  The tap water is generally not safe for consumption. It’s best to boil it first or drink filtered water. 

Traffic.  People drive on the left side of the road in Thailand. Make sure to look both ways when crossing streets. 

Public Smoking & Drinking.  It’s illegal to smoke or drink in most public spaces in Chiang Mai. Signs warning of steep fines and imprisonment remind visitors to obey this law. 

Safety.  Like most places in Thailand and South East Asia, Chiang Mai is a very safe destination to visit with little crime. Occasional signs at sights will warn visitors of pick pocketers. 

Fire & Smoke Season

From March through April, northern Thailand suffers extreme heat and dry weather. A mixture of forest fires and slash and burn farming indicate the region in a thick haze of smoke, often reaching very unhealthy and hazardous levels. As a preventative measure, the state closes access to many national parks, campgrounds, hiking trails and access to waterfalls. We continually tracked the air quality on IQ Air, minimizing our exposure when possible. 

Elsewhere in Thailand 

From Chiang Mai's temples and night markets to Bangkok's urban energy, Phuket's island escapes and Krabi's limestone landscapes, discover more of Thailand through these travel guides: 

Bangkok Travel Guide: Temples, Street Food & Thai Culture.  Experience Thailand's vibrant capital through ornate temples, bustling markets, world famous street food and the energy of modern Thai life. 

Phuket Travel Guide: Beaches, Island Hopping & Thai Culture.  Discover Thailand's largest island through white sand beaches, island hopping adventures, turquoise waters and coastal Thai culture.

Krabi Travel Guide: Railay Beach, Limestone Cliffs & Tropical Adventure.  Experience southern Thailand through dramatic limestone cliffs, Railay Beach, tropical islands and outdoor adventures.

For Next Time…

Doi Suthep-Pui National Park.  A mountainous national park with hiking trails, campgrounds and waterfalls just outside of Chiang Mai. We had planned to hike the 2 hour trail from Wat Phra That Doi Suthep to the Sai Yoi and Montha Than Waterfalls but were turned around. Most of the park was closed due to the extreme risk of wildfires. 

Long Neck Village.  On the boarder of Northern Thailand and Myanmar are villages where women are known to wear stacks of metal rings around their necks. The rings, added over time elongate the wearer’s neck by lowering their rib cage. It’s a beauty practice that’s very specific to the women of this region and something we hope to see on our next trip to the region.

Bangkok Travel Guide: Temples, Street Food & Thai Culture

Bangkok, A Bustling Metropolis 

Bangkok is a bustling metropolis at the heart of Thailand. It’s a place renowned for its street food scene, sprawling night markets and vibrant nightlife. Tuk tuks race through traffic past towering glass skyscrapers, ornate temples and historic wats. Gilded statues of giant buddhas watch over onlookers with a calming gaze. An opulent royal palace and historic museums house important aspects of Thai culture. The city is a branching off point for cultural sights in the north of the country and beaches in the south. We spent over a week here, exploring the impressive sights all across the city and outside of it, feasting on street food almost daily and ending our evenings sipping on flavorful drinks at cocktail bars. 

Temples, Wats & Palaces 

The Thai Royal Palace.  An opulent palace truly fit for royalty and the home to the Thai monarchy. The palace is divided into two viewable sections, The Temple of The Emerald Buddha and The Grand Palace.

The Temple of The Emerald Buddha.  A royal complex with Buddhist wats, temples, throne halls, royal stupas and elaborate sculptures. It’s one of the most opulently designed places on the royal grounds. The structures and statues are adorned in a kaleidoscope of vibrant colors, a glittering mosaic of reflective tiles, gilded surfaces, hand painted images, dimensional patterns and Khmer style roofs layered with colorful tiles and golden cornices. Marble staircases and red carpeted walkways lead around the grounds past sculpted trees and covered corridors. At its center is the main temple with a statue of the Buddha sculpted from solid emerald. 

The Grand Palace.  One of the largest complexes of the palace with the royal residence and offices, a library and multiple throne rooms. It’s not as opulent as The Temple of the Emerald Buddha but no less grand. The structures have a white neoclassical facade with golden window frames designed in the style of conical stupas. The Khmer style roofs are heavily layered in multi-colored tiles with gilded towers and ornate cornices. The spacious courtyards are landscaped with verdant lawns, sculpted trees, tiled planters with lotus flowers and bronze lamp posts. 

Tips for Visiting The Royal Palace:

• The Royal Palace is one of the most popular sights to see in Bangkok and often packed with thousands of visitors and tour groups at all times of the day. 

• The hours can differ daily due to the palace still being actively used by Thailand royalty. It closed at noon on the day we visited for a royal event.

• The best time to visit is on a very sunny day to truly appreciate the reflective and gilded surfaces shimmering under the sun. 

Wat Pho.  A royal Buddhist temple famed for its giant reclined golden Buddha. The statue measures 150 long and is housed in a grand hall decorated in richly colored floral patterns and scenes of Buddhist legends. The wat is home to numerous structures including Khmer style temples, various sized stupas covered in ornate three dimensional tiles and a hall with Thailand’s largest collection of golden buddhas. Come here to meditate, bang one of the giant metal gongs or apply a gold leaf stamp to a statue of Buddha. 

Wat Arun.  A Buddhist temple complex along the Chao Phraya River famed for its towering stupa. The faceted structure is covered in a mosaic of hand painted tiles, floral patterns, dimensional designs and flexing deities. Stairs lead to its second level where shrines dedicated to Buddha are housed. Many local couples rent traditional outfits and come here for photoshoots, providing the wat with an old world feeling and a romantic atmosphere. 

Big Golden Buddha.  A 69 meter tall seated golden Buddha along the Khlong Canal. Unknown to us before visiting, the Buddha was mostly covered in scaffolding for restoration. Work was supposedly completed a month later. At the time, all that was visible was his golden head. We visited to the Photo Spot for the Big Buddha with views of it, canal and wat. It’s free to visit however visitors can pay to pose in a longboat docked along the canal. It’s a common sight on long boat canal tours of the city 

The Golden Mount.  A wat on a man made hill with a large golden bell shaped stupa at its peak. Bells, gongs and wind chimes line the stairway leading to its observation deck with panoramic views of the entire city and skyline. The hill is landscaped with lush gardens, misting streams and tiny waterfalls. The surrounding neighborhood is  defined by Khmer style mansions and houses, each with decorative facades, layered tiled roofs and gold ornamentation. 

Wat Sam Phram.  A pink cylindrical tower with a blue and green tiled dragon coiled around it. On the second floor, we entered the body of the dragon and ascended up the spiraled ramp, through the “levels of heaven.” At the top of the temple, we visited several Buddhist shrines and spoke with friendly monks. They told us stories of Buddhist legends, the temple’s origins and how to best experience it. We bought a loop of marigolds from them as an offering and pet the dragon’s beard for good luck. The temple is a modern but nonetheless fascinating. On its grounds is a separate statue of a large golden Buddha seated upon a lotus leaf.  The temple is located an hour outside of Bangkok and reachable by Grab for around 400 Bhat. Given its distant location, there were few visitors outside of the monks living here.

The Ancient City

The Ancient City is a large outdoor museum and historical theme park with reproductions of Thailand’s most important wats, temples and sights including those that have long been lost to history. 

Semeru Mountain.  An island temple surrounded by a giant koi fish, reachable along a winding yellow bridge. The wooden temple is ornately carved with finely painted sculptures of Hindu deities and peacocks. 

Sanphet Prasat Palace, Ayutthaya.  A grand reconstruction of the Thai Imperial Palace lost to history. The large white building had a multi tiered black tiled Khmer style roof. It’s forbidden to take photos within its gilded interior displaying royal statues and garments. The surrounding grounds are landscaped with lily ponds, small streams, sculpted trees and elephant shaped fountains. 

Dusit Maha Prasat Palace.  A reproduction of royal palace with four wings decorated in elaborate handprinted murals of battles, legends and royal coronations. features inside is an emerald Buddha. It’s exterior is similar to other royal palaces with a white facade, gold ornamentation an a multi-tiered Khmer style roof. 

The Scripture Repository.  A small but beautiful stilted pagoda above a pond with giant lily pads.

Mondop Thep Bidorn.  A white temple with an intricate roof and pyramid like stupa. 

Rainbow Bridge.  A photogenic bow shaped bridge over a canal painted like a rainbow. 

Sala of Ramayana.  A temple with multiple mauve and emerald green pavilions connected by a series of zig zagging boardwalks over a large pond dedicated to a Hindu deity. 

The Footprint of the Lord Buddha, Saraburi.  A tall golden temple prominently placed on a stepped white platform guarded by a mythical seven headed snake. The temple is covered in a mosaic of reflective, gold and colorful tiles. Inside, a series of mirrors reflect the golden interior into infinity. 

Pavilion of the Enlightened.  A series of gold painted pagodas and pavilions connected by a network of overwater boardwalks. We visited the “fat Buddha,” a golden statue of the big bellied and laughing buddha. 

Buddha of the Substancesless Universe.  A modern Buddhist temple and one of the most opulent in all of Thailand. Its facade is completely covered in reflective gold tiles of the buddha, with an orange tiered roof and towering gold spire at its center. Inside is a hall with over two dozen seated golden Buddhas. Its surrounding grounds and are home to smaller temples, golden stupas and landscaped gardens. 

The Floating Market.  A network of wooden structures with shops, cafes and street food vendors connected by boardwalks and bridges. At the time, most of the shops were vacant, giving the market an eerie and abandoned feeling. We stopped at one cafe for Thai iced tea. 

The Old Market Town.  A reproduction of a traditional town with wooden houses, tea rooms, historic exhibits and small shops. 

Tips for Visiting The Ancient City:

• Getting Here.  It’s located about an hour outside of Bangkok and easily reachable by Grab. Grab’s are readily available to return to the city. 

• Getting Around.  The park has 22km of roads. We rented bikes in the park, stopping at anything that caught our eye. There are golf cart rentals and a free shuttle that visits the most prominent sights. 

• Tickets.  Buy tickets online to pay half the price offered at admission. 

• Free Zone.  There is a zone before the official park entrance that can be visited for free without a ticket. It includes several small temples, monuments and sights. The most noteworthy are the Temple of Buddha of the Substancesless Universe, The Scripture Repository and The Old Market Town. 

• Avoid the Elephant Tourism.  The park keeps multiple elephants. Unfortunately they didn’t seem to be cared for properly. One was chained up and surrounded by a tour bus worth of visitors posing for photos on the elephant’s back. 

Visit the Museums

National Museum Bangkok.  A collection of buildings and exhibits housing royal and early Thai artifacts on the grounds of the country’s former royal palace.

• Ishra Vinijaya Throne Hall.  A former throne hall featuring past royal thrones, royal puppets and musical instruments, household items, ceramics and furniture. 

• Hangar of Thai Royal Funeral Chariot.  A garage displaying several gilded and elaborately designed royal chariots from past royal funerals. Some date back nearly 300 years. 

• Buddhaisawan Hall.  A temple with elaborate painting of Buddhist stories and legends. Its golden Buddha was hidden from view for restoration. 

• Maha Surasinghanat Building & Praphat Phiphithaphan Building.  Two exhibit halls with galleries displaying early artifacts and maps from Thailand’s history including stone, bronze and ivory buddhas, statues and stelae.

Royal Barges National Museum.  A waterfront museum housing several Thai royal barges used during ceremonies, coronations and funerals. Most have a red body, pedestal for the monarch and dozens of seats for rowers. The vessels are decorated in ornate gold paintings, jeweled mosaics and headed with a figures of a mythical creatures like dragons and deities. Remnants of the oldest barges date back nearly 300 years, however the oldest were destroyed during wartime.

Neighborhoods & Streets

Silom.  A central neighborhood with night markets, street food vendors and modern skyscrapers. It’s a hub for LGBTQ+ community with a welcoming atmosphere and popular alley with gay bars and clubs. 

Silom 4 Alley.  An alleyway in Silom lined with gay bars serving boozy cocktails, nightly drag shows and lady boy dance performances. The alley gets busy after 9pm and the nightlife continuing into the early morning hours. We sat outside at BAS Living Room sipping on classic and signature cocktails like a Long Island iced tea and passion fruit gin & tonic.  

Chinatown.  A vast neighborhood with bustling night markets, the city’s highest density of street food vendors, roads lined with tall vertical signs inscribed with Chinese lettering, red paper lanterns and gold jewelry shops. 

Phra Nakhon District. A neighborhood with some of the city’s most important Buddhist wats, cultural and historic museums, the Thai Royal Palace and government buildings. 

Khao San Road.  A popular nightlife street and tourist trap with souvenir shops, overpriced bars, weed stores and backpacker hostels. Vendors sell roasted insects and display whole grilled alligators for the adventurous eaters. Go elsewhere for a more local and authentic atmosphere.

Sri Ram Buttri Road.  A smaller nightlife street popular with locals and tourists lined with cute bars, vibey patios, massage studios, flowering trees and good prices. We sat down along the street at Wang’s Bar, ordering two drinks and getting the third one free. It’s a better alternative to the nearby Khao Son Road.

See the Sights 

Maha Nakhon Tower.  One of Bangkok’s most iconic high-rises. It’s recognizable by its fragmented and spiraling blue glass facade that looks as if it’s a video game or matrix glitch.  We visited the Parlor Bar in on the fourth floor for happy hour cocktails. 

Asiatique Park.  An outdoor riverfront mall and entertainment complex with Thailand’s largest ferris wheel, sight seeing boat routes, a Calypso Cabaret theater, street food vendors, restaurants, clothing shops and various stores with Thai goods. It’s a popular spot amongst both locals and tourists. 

Lumphini Park.  A lush city park with treelined paths, paddle boat rentals, small lakes and interconnected waterways home to giant water monitors. We spotted several of them swimming as well as jet black ravens bathing and white ibises hunting for fish. 

Benchakitti Park.  A manmade nature reserve in the middle of Bangkok with micro ecosystems representing what the landscaped used to look like before urbanization. The park features a series of wet lands with endemic species of fish, birds, plants and trees all connected by a maze of zig zagging trails and an elevated boardwalk. It’s a tranquil escape from the chaos of the city and wonderful place to reconnect with nature, bird watch and exercise. 

Chao Phraya River  

The Chao Phraya River snakes through Bangkok passing several important sights and neighborhoods. There are multiple ferry lines that shuttle passengers up and down the river to various stops along the way. It was one of the best ways to see the city and get around. 

• Chao Phraya Tourist Boat.  A two level ferry that slowly navigates along the river with an audio guide pointing out some of the riverfront’s main sights. It’s an affordable alternative to the expensive boat tours. One way tickets cost less than $3 USD with boats leaving every 15-30min. 

• Chao Phraya Express Boat (Yellow Flag).  A covered long boat with that quickly navigates between stops along the river. One way tickets cost less than $1USD with boats leaving every 15min. 

• Long Boat Ferry.  There are several ferries that shuttle passengers across the river for 5 Bhat (less than 2 cents). It’s the perfect way to get to the other side of the river when exploring on foot. We took the ferry across between the Khlong San Pier and Si Phraya Ferry Pier as well as Tah Tian (Royal Palace) and Wat Arun.

Shop the Markets 

Patpong Night Market.  A night market with street food vendors selling grilled skewers, fried seafood, Thai noodles, rice dishes, spring rolls, papaya salad and cheap beers. We dined here twice, sampling dishes from several vendors. Our favorite bites were the barbecued squid and Tom Yum Goong Nam Khon, a creamy and spicy shrimp soup. There is a central dining space with plastic tables and chairs to sit down and enjoy. The market continues beyond the street food sections the vendors selling knockoff hand bags, shoes and watches. It’s a good spot to haggle for bohemian pants, t-shirts, jewelry and miscellaneous accessories. 

Pro Tip.  Haggle for goods, it’s part of the game. Never accept the first price. Offer half and start walking away when the vendor rejects. Soon after, they’ll agree to your price. 

Chinatown Night Market.  Come twilight, as the city lights and neon signs begin to illuminate the city, Yaowarat Road in Chinatown becomes the epicenter of Bangkok’s street food scene and Thai cuisine. Hundreds vendors set up mobile kitchens and carts, grilling, frying, sautéing, boiling and steaming all manner of the city’s famed street food. We went on a street food crawl tasting our way through the market. We feasted on assorted dumplings filled with scallion, radish and mung bean paste. Next up was sautéed squid and cabbage drenched with a spicy fish sauce. Afterwards, crispy fish cakes with spicy braised cucumbers. Then deep fried veggie gyoza and bao buns grilled with butter. For dessert, assorted pastries filled with sesame, red bean and durian paste

Chinatown Market Chaloem Buri.   A street food market in a Chinatown plaza with tents of vendors, live music and a central dining area. It’s less chaotic and more elevated than the Chinatown Night Market. Vendors serve dishes like alligator nuggets, whole roasted ducks, freshly grilled lobster, stuffed dumplings, buns, spring rolls and local beers. 

Yaowarat Old Market.  A covered market street in Chinatown with hundreds of shops selling all types of merchandise including clothing, toys, tech accessories, kitchenware, jewelry and street food. Many locals come here to shop and pass through the narrow passageway on vespas. 

Restaurants & Cafes 

Nuaniyom.  A Thai restaurant with all types of national dishes including a range of Pad Thais, papaya salads, Thai curries and Thai iced teas. Even before ordering, the number of locals dining here and lack of English speaking waiters assured us we’re in for a treat. We came here for our first Pad Thai in Thailand and were not disappointed! 

Somsak Puob.  A street food vendor famed for their seafood dishes like roe crab, blood cockle and prawns. A tray of live crabs sits on display awaiting to be cooked in the street side kitchen. We ordered the juicy and tender roe crab, cooked in a hot pot with butter, garlic, scallions, glass noodles and a pate of the crab roe served in a shell. They were awarded a Michelin Bib, the equivalent of a Michelin Star for street food vendors. 

Lynx House Cafe.  A cafe near the Giant Golden Buddha with bold coffee, uniquely flavored signature drinks, artisan desserts and pastries. Try the iced latte with orange blossom water and soda. 

Kaze Coffee.  A cafe with strong Thai coffees and specialty drinks. We stopped in to escape the afternoon heat and for our midday caffeine fix.

Chana Bubble Tea.  A small mall cafe coffees, teas and boba. We came here for Thai iced teas with boba (aka bubble tea).

Cocktail Bars

In all large cities, we love to bar hop during our stay, visiting at least one cocktail bar a night. Bangkok was no exception! We visited rooftops, gay bars, an oceanfront terrace a “speakeasy” and enjoyed our share of happy hours. 

Palate Rooftop.  A rooftop bar with views of the elevated metro trains, nearby wats, vibrant streets and a bustling night market. We came for happy hour, having some of best priced drinks we found in Bangkok, sticking around afterwards for cocktails from their signature menu. Unlike most Bangkok rooftops, this one is not high end. It’s lesser known and located on the fifth floor past a series of maze like stairs.

White Rabbit Bar.  A gay bar with well made cocktails and highly live singers. We sat outside in the warm summer air beneath the elevated train, people watching as we sipped on fruity and bitter cocktails garnished with flowers. 

Tropic City.  A tropical themed bar with boozy and beachy cocktails continually rated as one of the top 50 bars in Asia. It’s hidden in a Chinatown alleyway but immediately transported us to a tropical destination with its colorful and moody lights, palm thatched decor and jungleous wallpaper. Order the “Welcome to the Jungle” or a classic piña colada. 

The Parlor.  A cocktail bar on the 4th floor of The Standard Hotel in the Maha Nakhon Tower. We came for their well priced happy hour with Aperol spritzes, gin and tonics and margaritas. The lovely atmosphere during sunset on their outdoor terrace made for calm and memorable final night in Bangkok. 

Vol de Nuit The Hidden Bar.  A cocktail bar in a garden speakeasy behind an art gallery with pop art painted sculptures of sumo wrestlers, animals and anime characters. The garden is colorfully lit with a beautiful koi pond at its center. Try one of citric and fruity signature cocktails like Summer Time and Unforgettable, perfect for a warm Bangkok night. 

Wang’s Bar.  A vibey street side cocktail bar on Sri Ram Buttri Road with inexpensive and classic cocktails. We stopped in for their buy two get one free happy hour and left feeling quite happy. Try the Mai Tai, gin & tonic or Long Island iced tea. 

Sunspirit.  A high end waterfront cocktail bar and restaurant on the Gulf of Thailand nearby the Ancient City. We came here in the late afternoon for drinks while overlooking the water and watching the container ships pass by.

Thai Cuisine 

Thai cuisine is delicious combination of sweet, spicy, fresh and savory flavors. We tried a few favorites at restaurant, night markets and in our Airbnb’s kitchen. 

Pad Thai.  A world renowned rice noodle dish famed for its tangy and sweet sauce paired with peanuts, scallion, bean sprouts and chili pepper. 

Tom Yum Goong Nam Kon.  A flavorful spicy and sour Thai soup made with lime juice, lemon grass, galangal root, kaffir lime leaves and evaporated milk. It’s often paired with shrimp or prawn. 

Spring Rolls.  Crispy and flaky rolled or deep fried dough filled with veggies and herbs typically served with a sweet and spicy sauce. 

Thai Curry.  Red, green and yellow curries made with a range of hot and savory spices, coconut milk and rice noodles. 

Papaya Salad.  A thai salad made from thinly spiced pieces of green papaya marinated and mixed with lime juice, garlic, chilies, fish sauce, palm sugar and peanuts. 

Basil Rice with Shrimp.  A stir fried rice dish cooked with Thai basil, shrimp, chili and garlic. 

Thai Iced Tea.  A classic Thai beverage made from brewed black tea and mixed with milk and sugar. It’s often flavored with star anise and cardamom. Try it with boba pearl. 

Mango Sticky Rice.  A simple and delicious staple of Thai cuisine made from sticky rice paired with freshly sliced mango. The rice is often flavored with sweetened condensed milk or a herbal syrup.

Chang Beer.  A national beer, popular across the country. It’s recognizable by two elephants on its label.

LGBTQ+ Safety

Thailand is one of the friendliest LGBTQ+ in Asia with legalized same sex marriage, protections against discrimination and an overall accepting population. Upon arrival into Thailand, each immigration booth featured sticker of the progress flag in a heart with LGBTQ+ written across it. It was a very welcoming sight upon entry to a foreign country. 

Location Specifics

Driving.  People drive on the left side of the road. Remember to look both ways when crossing the road. 

Expenses.  Bangkok is pricier than other places in South East Asia. Luckily, spending money on street food at happy hours helped us spend less. 

Language. Thai is the national language. Most people speak a little English. 

Cash vs Card.  Cash is accepted everywhere and the preferred method of payment. Many restaurants, businesses and sights didn’t accept credit card. 

Safety.  We felt safe throughout Bangkok but were continually warned about pickpocketing and scammers. 

Modesty.  Wearing long pants and covering shoulders is required when entering most wats and temples, including the royal palace.

Food Poisoning.  While street food is delicious, cheap and a local way of experiencing Thai culture and cuisine, it comes with risks of food poisoning. Bring travel medication for food poisoning just incase the worse case should happen. 

Getting Around 

Grab.  A taxi app is readily available throughout Bangkok. Rides across the city typically cost about $5 USD. Rides to/from the airport cost around $12 USD.

Tuk Tuk.  Souped up three wheeled taxis are common across the city with regularly drivers offering rides. We found tuk tuks to be more costly than Grabs. 

Metro.  Bangkok has a very modern metro system with elevated rails crossing the city. It’s a cheap and effort way to get around like a local. 

Elsewhere in Thailand 

From Bangkok's temples and street food scene to Chiang Mai's historic Old City, Phuket's beaches and Krabi's coastal adventures, continue exploring Thailand through these travel guides: 

Chiang Mai Travel Guide: Old City, Temples & Night Markets.  Explore northern Thailand through ancient temples, the historic Old City, lively night markets and rich cultural traditions.

Phuket Travel Guide: Beaches, Island Hopping & Thai Culture.  Discover Thailand's largest island through white sand beaches, island hopping adventures, turquoise waters and coastal Thai culture.

Krabi Travel Guide: Railay Beach, Limestone Cliffs & Tropical Adventure.  Experience southern Thailand through dramatic limestone cliffs, Railay Beach, tropical islands and outdoor adventures.

For Next Time…

Bangkok is a massive city! Even with a week here, we didn’t get to see and do everything we had on our list. When we return, we have several things top of mind inside and outside of the city. 

Ayutthaya Old City Ruins.  A sprawling complex with ancient wats, temples, palaces and ruins in the city of Ayutthaya.

Phra Prang Sam Yot.  An Angkor Wat style temple with three stone stupas and families of wild monkeys. It’s also located in Ayutthaya. 

Floating Markets.  Riverside markets with canoes of vendors selling produce, souvenirs and miscellaneous goods to customers waiting on docks

Bangkok Weekend Market.  The city’s largest market, only held on Saturday and Sunday with hundreds of vendors selling goods and street food. 

Dragon Descendants Museum.  A giant dragon shaped museum dedicated to Chinese history throughout the region. 

Sunflower Fields.  From mid-November to early January, sunflower farms bloom into fields of yellow. There are several sunflower fields north of the city. 

Chet Sao Noi National Park.  A national park with a seven tiered waterfalls. 

Phnom Penh Travel Guide: Royal Palace, Markets & Cambodian Culture

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Phnom Penh is the capital city of Cambodia. It’s a cultural destination with Khmer style architecture, gilded temples, a lavish royal palace, sprawling markets, countless tuk tuks and museums recounting the country’s storied past. Built along the banks of the Mekong & Tonle Sap Rivers, it’s an emerging hub for city life with a rapidly expanding skyline and bustling atmosphere both day and night that attracts Cambodians and travelers from all over the world. We stayed in Phnom Penh for just under a week, exploring its many sights, enjoying its exotic food scene and learning about the country’s rich history. 

The Royal Palace

Cambodia’s Royal Palace is an exquisite combination of buildings including the royal residence, throne hall, ceremonial pavilions, buddhist temples and elaborate stupas. The grounds are comprised of manicured lawns, flowering gardens and sculpted trees. 

Moonlight Pavilion. A Khmer style pavilion and gate to The Royal Palace used for royal banquets and ceremonies. It’s best viewed from the Royal Palace Park in the morning light. 

Throne Hall.  One of the grandest structures on the royal grounds. The opulent hall boasts stone columns, golden lamps, a silk carpet, crystal chandeliers and a royal throne sitting underneath a golden pagoda. It can only be viewed from the outside and photos are prohibited. 

Hor Samritpimean.  A Khmer style house with an exhibit featuring royal ceremonial outfits, coronation regalia and ancient artifacts. 

Napoleon III Pavillon.  A cast-iron French style house with stained glass windows and a small clock tower. It was gifted to Cambodia by Napoleon III.

Dancing Hall.  An open air pavilion used for royal dances, celebrations and to host guests. 

The Silver Pagoda.  A walled area of the Royal Palace containing several temples, stupas and monuments 

Temple of the Emerald Buddha.  An ornate temple at the center of the Silver Pagoda housing several statues of Buddha made of emerald, gold and encrusted in jewels. The floor is inlaid with silver tiles and the walls painted in elaborate murals. Photos of the interior are prohibited. 

The Royal Stupas.  The royal stupas are elaborate cone shaped white stone and gold plated structures containing the remains of deceased royalty. 

Gallery of the Ramayana Frescos.  An open air hallway encompasses the walled area of the Silver Pagoda. On its walls are detailed and colorfully painted frescos of the Ramayana. They recount the Indian epic of the Ramayana

Temples and Wats

Wat Ounalom Monastery.  One of the five original Buddhist temples in Phnom Penh dating back to 13th century. Dozens of newer structures have been added to it over the years since. Its oldest temple is believed to house an eyebrow hair of the Buddha. Within the monastery’s terracotta walls are temples and meditation halls with Khmer style roofs, statues of Buddha, a golden pagoda and gilded stupa and a cemetery with smaller stupas. Around the monastery we saw Buddhist monks dressed in orange robes mediating, wandering the grounds and gardening. 

Wat Phnom Daun Penh.  A Buddhist temple dedicated to Lady Penh and the legend surrounding her. It’s one of the most important sights in the capital. The temple stands on a hill surrounded by a peaceful city park. It features a large white stupa and a beautiful pagoda. Its interior walls, ceiling and columns are painted in colorful scenes of the Buddha’s previous lives. The temple houses statues of Buddha and Vishnu that legend says Lady Penh discovered inside a tree floating down the Mekong River. The trees in the park are home to a colony of giant bats known as flying foxes. We watched them sway in the trees, crawl along branches and occasionally take flight. There is a $1 USD entry fee to the park and temple.

Wat Langka.  One of the original five Buddhist temples of Phnom Penh with pagodas and stupas. We visited in the late afternoon and were the only ones here except for a friendly monk gardening. It was very peaceful and meditative to walk around and admire. 

Visit the Museums 

National Museum of Cambodia.  A fully red colored Khmer style building housing historical artifacts from across Cambodia. The museums exhibits ancient bronzes, relics from temples, stone sculptures of Hindu gods, Buddha, Khmer royalty and warriors, stolen and recovered objects. At the center of the museum in an outdoor courtyard with koi ponds and walkways to admired the museum’s design. 

SOSORO - Preah Srey Museum.  A museum dedicated to the role of currency throughout Cambodia’s history from ancient times to modern day. It displays maps, historical records and precious coins from ancient Cambodia and the Khmer Empire. No photos are allowed to be taken inside. 

Genocide Museum.  Cambodia is a beautiful country that underwent a very dark and tragic past not so long ago. The Khmer Rouge came to power and forcibly displaced, starved, tortured and killed millions of Cambodians throughout the mid to late 1970s. The museum is one of the former prisons used to carry out the atrocities. We listed to the audio guide as we solemnly toured the museum and its former cells. Throughout the cells are thousands of photos of those imprisoned on its grounds, graphic accounts of what happened here and human remains. 

See the Parks & Monuments 

Royal Palace Park.  A park in front of the Royal Palace with views of its grand gate. It’s a popular evening spot where Buddhist monks gather, families relax and people feed pigeons. 

Wat Botum Park.  A park lined with grassy lawns, fountains, Cambodian monuments and public plazas. It leads from the Royal Palace to the Independence Garden. 

Independence Garden.  A grassy park in the middle of one of Phnom Penh’s main roads with multiple monuments including a statue of the King of Cambodia and a red fountain featuring a seven headed snake deity. 

Independence Monument.  A red stone stupa in the middle of a roundabout at the end of the Independence Garden commemorating Cambodia’s indecencies from France.  

Sisowath Riverside Park.  A palm lined promenade along the banks of the Tonle Sap River. It’s a popular spot to walk at night  with boat captains selling sightseeing tours and street food vendors. The road across from the park is a popular spot for nightlife with restaurants, bars and clubs. 

Yeay Penh Statue.  A small white monument with ornate Khmer designs housing a bronze statue of Yeay Penh, the founder of the city. 

Shop the Markets 

The Central Market.  Recognizable by its pale yellow color, art deco windows, large dome and four halls extending from it. Inside, vendors sell all manner of goods including fruits, vegetables, herbs, meats, live seafood and chickens, coffee, clothing, shoes, jewelry, cookware and toys. It’s a place where locals come to shop while welcoming tourists and travelers. Make sure to bring cash and plan to haggle. 

We shopped for groceries, buying local ingredients like banana blossom, tofu, bean sprouts, rice noodles, dragonfruit, bitter melon, lily stems, kampot pepper and coconut milk. Our favorite area of the market are the street food stalls. Cooks served all types of noodle dishes, grilled seafoods, steamed dumpling and fried insects, including tarantula! We ordered a bowl of Nom Banh Chok, a coconut curry with rice noodles and veggies.

The Old Market.  A large market with narrow aisles of vendors selling all types of merchandise, fruits, vegetables, meats, seafood, souvenirs, meals and street food. Many locals come here for various services like haircuts and manicures. 

Phnom Penh Night Market.  Night markets are a staple of most Asian cities and come to life after dark. The Phnom Penh Night Market is no different. Vendors set up selling clothes, shoes, jewelry, accessories and toys. In the center of it all is a karaoke stage where people muster up the courage to sing out in front of the masses. 

One of the best reasons to come here is for the street food! Dozens of food carts surround a plaza blanketed in colorful carpets and cushions. Each vendor sells a vibrant display of fried and barbecued skewers, spring and summer rolls, dumplings, rice and noodle dishes. The food is extremely inexpensive and a fun way to try Cambodian cuisine. We ordered several veggie and seafood skewers then chose a carpeted spot to enjoy dinner. 

Things to Do

Take a Sunset River Cruise.  We took a sunset river cruise down the Mekong & Tonle Sap Rivers. The 90 minute tour included a 40min narration of sights and unlimited local beers! We watched the sun set over the city behind the rapidly growing skyline and golden roofs of Buddhist temples. Along the way, we passed the “meeting waters” where the brown water of the Tonle Sap River and the deep blue water of the Mekong River meet. We boated past a small fishing village made from a colorful cluster of stilt houses and saw fishermen returning with nets full of the days catch. We booked our tour ahead of time however it’s not necessary. Boat operators sell tickets for as little as $5 along the riverside park. Reserve here.

Explore the Old French Quarter.  A small neighborhood with historic buildings constructed during France’s colonization of Cambodia. The buildings are in various conditions, painted yellow with olive or blue wooden window shutters and clay tiled roofs. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Kravanh Restaurant.  A high end restaurant serving a range of traditional Cambodian dishes. We dined in the romantic outdoor courtyard along a colonial house our first night in Phnom Penh. We shared three plates.

• Meang Kham.A platter of Cambodian flavors made from a dozen fixings including dried shrimp, toasted coconut, crispy shallots, diced chilies and sliced limes displayed on rolling leaves. The leaves are folded into a scoop and filled with any combination of fixings, dolloped with spicy tamarind shrimp sauce and eaten whole.

• Fish Amok.  Cambodia’s national dish, dating back to the Khmer Empire. It’s made from freshwater fish wrapped in a cup of banana leaves steamed in coconut milk and curry. 

• Snake Fish Ceviche.  A ceviche made with marinated snake fish prepared alongside galangal, banana blossom, bean sprouts and crispy shallots. 

Elephant Bar.  An elevated bar at the Raffles Hotel with a gin forward menu and a range of signature and classic cocktails. The bar is a beautiful place for a drink with a vaulted ceiling decorated in paintings of elephants, a dark wooden bar, leather lounges and tropical plants. The prices are outrageous for Cambodia. Come after 4pm for their 40% off happy hour!

• Signature G&Ts.  A shortlist of gin and tonics made with local gins, classic ingredients and artisan tonic water. 

• Kampot Pepper.  A cocktail made with local gin, cucumber, soda water and kampot peppers. 

• Phnom Penh Sling.  A twist on the Singapore Sling made with house gin, lychee liqueur and guava juice.

SORA.  An elevated “sky bar” on the 47th floor of the Rosewood Tower. We sat on the outdoor terrace, sipping on cocktails as the sun set and the city lights turned on. The interior has a very well designed bar, restaurant and cigar lounge. Order from the Anime themed cocktail menu!

Cafe Chiet.  A beautiful cafe with a natural ambience enhanced by bamboo walls, wooden furniture, tropical plants and stone floors. The baristas prepare a range of coffees and teas served in golden chalices. 

Duo Cafe.  A small cafe with iced drinks like coconut coffee, matcha lattes and Cambodian coffee. 

Cambodian Cuisine 

Cambodian cuisine has a range of unique flavors including bitter vegetables, savory sauces, spicy peppers and fresh seafood. In addition to the dishes we tried at restaurants and markets, we cooked a few in our own kitchen.

• Lok Lak.  A dish made with marinated beef or tofu, onions and garlic caramelized in a palm sugar and fish sauce glaze. It’s served with rice. 

• Trey Khor.  A very traditional Cambodian dish made with a filet of fatty trout cooked and marinated overnight in a sweet and savory sauce comprised of palm sugar, soy sauce, minced garlic and ginger.

• Bobor.  Essentially rice porridge or congee but made with broth instead of water and garnished with Cambodian ingredients like cilantro, lotus stems, chili peppers and bean sprouts. 

Cambodian Beers

We love tasting the local beers whenever we travel. Cambodia had at least five that we tried during our time here. They all have a light flavor and subtle variances, perfect for the hot days. 

• Cambodia.  The national beer featuring a bold red label with the country and brand’s name. 

• Angkor.  Named after Cambodia’s most iconic sight, its label features a graphic of its famed stupas.

• Anchor.  A competitor to Angkor, with an anchor on its label. 

• Hanuman.  A beer with a blue label featuring a Hindu monkey deity. 

• Krud.  A popular and inexpensive pilsner with a green logo of its name. 

Getting Around 

On Foot.  The city center is very walkable though chaotic. Sidewalks are often blocked by street food vendors and scooter parking. To cross roads, slowly and fearlessly walk into the flow of tuk tuks, scooters and cars. Traffic will slow down, go around you or stop.  

By Tuk Tuk.  Three wheeled carts, a kind of hybrid between a scooter and a car. They’re readily available and extremely inexpensive to get around the city. We used Grab, to call one when getting around. 

Location Specifics

Dress Modesty.  When visiting temples, museums and the palace, it’s important to dress modestly. Visitors are asked to cover their legs and shoulders as well as remove hats and shoes before entering. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not directly safe for drinking. It’s best to boil or filter it. 

Currency.  The US Dollar and Cambodian Riel are used interchangeably.

Cash vs Card.  Cash is the preferred method of payment everywhere. Few places accept credit or debit card. 

Scams.  Beware of scammy tuk tuk drivers. They will ask you where you’re going then tell you the museum, temple, palace, etc is closed. They’ll then try to convince you to take a city sight seeing tour with them.

Language.  The official language of Cambodia is Khmer however most people speak a little English. We learned few Khmer words while here:

• Hello = Suostei (so-say-tie)

• Thank you = Arkoun (are-kun)

• Good bye = Leahaey (lee-hai)

Where to Stay

We stayed in a large two bedroom apartment two blocks away from the Central Market. The apartment has tall ceilings, colorful tiled floors, a full kitchen and balcony overlooking the street. Each bedroom has its own private bathroom and AC. It was the perfect spot to share with a friend traveling with us. We booked on Airbnb. 

Elsewhere in Cambodia 

From Phnom Penh's riverside neighborhoods and cultural landmarks to the ancient temples and Khmer heritage of Siem Reap, continue exploring Cambodia's rich history and culture.

Siem Reap Travel Guide: Angkor Wat, Ancient Temples & Cambodian Heritage.  Explore Cambodia's most iconic destination through Angkor Wat, ancient Khmer temples, overgrown ruins and centuries of cultural heritage.

Siem Reap Travel Guide: Angkor Wat, Ancient Temples & Cambodian Heritage

Siem Reap, Cambodia

Siem Reap is the ancient capital and cultural hub of present day Cambodia. It’s surrounded by archeological sights, historic temples and ancient ruins, most notably, Angkor Wat. The city itself is home to Buddhist temples, local markets, lively nightlife and a royal residence. 

Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat is a mysterious and historic complex comprised of overgrown and crumbling structures, towering stupas, jungleous pyramids, rectangular lakes and sprawling temples decorated in intricate details, carvings and statues. Many sights date back well over 1,000 years and some remain active Buddhist temples today. It takes multiple days to explore the vast complex to truly appreciate its grandeur and history. We passed by ruins in our tuk tuk, watched sunrises beyond them, walked through their ancient chambers and climbed their steep steps. Angkor Wat is a true world wonder that connects the ancient past and modern day. 

Getting Around Angkor Wat

The best way to visit Angkor Wat is by hiring a tuk tuk for the day. Drivers charge $25-$30 USD per day including a return trip to the city during the afternoon for lunch, rest or to escape the heat. Our driver gifted us Cambodian scarfs, supplied ice water and cold towels scented with lemongrass. We found our driver at the bus station but they can also be booked on Trip Advisor. 

Three Day Self-Guided Tour

Angkor Wat Tickets. Single day, three day and seven day tickets are available to visit Angkor Wat. They should be purchased ahead of time from the Official Website. Keep a digital or printed copy on you at all times for guards to scan at each temple. We visited Angkor Wat over three days, planning our route to maximize time in the mornings, avoiding peak visiting hours and the harsh afternoon heat. 

• Day One.  We visited Eastern Me Bon for the sunrise at 6am followed by Pre Rup, Ta Prohm and Banteay Kdei. We left at noon, returning at 3:30pm to visit the main temple of Angkor Wat for sunset. 

• Day Two.  We visited Angkor Wat for the sunrise at 5am followed by Angkor Thom South Gate, Bayon, Baphuon, the Terrace of the Elephants and the Terrace of the Leper King. We left Angkor Wat at 11am, returning at 2:30pm to visit Preah Khan Temple and Neak Pean Temple. 

• Day Three.  We visited the Banteay Srei and Baksei Chamkrong in the morning, returning to Siem Reap by noon, ending our tour of Angkor Wat. 

Angkor Wat Sights 

Eastern Me Bon.  A Hindu temple built during the 10th century with depictions of Shiva carved into its walls. Steps lead to each level of the temple’s multi-tiered square platforms. The steps are guarded by statues of lions. The four corners of each platform are flanked by statues of elephants. Five pyramid topped towers cumulate at its center. The structure is constructed from orange brick and porous orange stone blocks. Crumbling parts of the temple are supported by large wooden braces. We visited at 6am to watch the sun rise and had the entire temple to ourselves. The golden warm glow of the sunrise illuminated the central towers as the sounds of crickets and birds chirping echoed from the surrounding jungle. 

Pre Rup.  An ancient Hindu funerary complex dating back over 1,000 years. Steps lead to each level of the ruin’s multi-tiered square platforms. Pyramid topped towers flank its entrance and five more sit at its highest and most central point. Reliefs of Shiva decorate the stone walls and statues of sitting lions guard each level. Tree top views of the jungle can be admired from its upper platform. 

Ta Prohm (Tomb Raider Temple).  The overgrown ruins of a Buddhist temple hidden within the lush jungle. Giant trees grow from the temple, their roots cover walls and spider across the ground. Pathways lead through crumbling chambers and former halls to courtyards with piles of rubble and moss covered stones. All manner of birds chirp, squawk and fly overhead. Decaying reliefs and carvings decorate surfaces while statues of Buddha rest in various states of disrepair. It’s one of the most popular temples to visit due to its appearance in “Tomb Raider.” It’s best to visit before 8am to beat the buses full of tourists. 

Banteay Kdei.  A Buddhist temple dating back to the 13th Century. A stone gate with a four faced head of Buddha adorns the temple’s entrance. A stone walkway leads past the ruins of rooms and chambers with walls and columns decorated in carvings of Khmer dancers. Crumbled sections of the temple are overgrown with hundred year old trees home to cicadas and their deafening hum. The temple is still actively visited by Buddhist monks.

Angkor Wat.  The largest religious temple complex in the world, featuring both Hindu and Buddhist motifs. A long bridge crosses a mote to a wide entrance gate lined with stone columns and three symmetrical stupas. Beyond the gate is the iconic image of Angkor Wat. A road flanked by lawns, reflecting pools and small temples leads to the central structure. Its interior is adorned with countless images of Hindu deities and intricately patterned designs. A steep staircase leads to the upper platform and three towering stupas. At its center are Buddhist shrines still used by today’s monks and followers. 

Angkor Wat Sunrise.  We arrived just before 5am and were some of the first to enter the temple. We watched from the south reflecting pool and north temple as the sky turned orange and sun rose above the temple. 

Angkor Thom South Gate.  A gate entering the Angkor Thom temple complex. A bridge lined with statues of Buddha crosses over a mote leading to the gate. The gate has a four faced head of Buddha and a narrow road passing through it.

Bayon.  A 12th Century temple defined by its towers with four faced heads of Buddha looking in the cardinal directions. Stacks of stone and piles of rubble surround the crumbling temple. Detailed stories and pictures are carved into its ancient walls. Stairs lead to its mid-level and inner passageways, some barely wide enough to squeeze through. Colonies of bats live within the dark chambers. Families of wild monkeys roam free with warning signs cautioning people to beware of monkey attacks. Bayon is easily one of the most unique and wild feeling temples at Angkor Wat.

Baphuon.  The ruins of a four sided, multi-tiered temple set against the backdrop of the dense jungle. A dried up causeway leads to its base where steep staircases ascend to each level. Minimal details and statures have survived the centuries of decay. Piles of stone and rubble are placed throughout the surrounding grounds. Families of wild monkeys play on the ruins and in the trees. 

Terrace of the Elephants.  A walled platform defined by large reliefs and statues of dozens of elephants carved into it. Their detailed bodies march along the wall while their trunks and faces protrude from its corners. The terrace tells the story of victorious battle and returning warriors. It is believed to have been used as a royal square. 

Terrace of the Leper King.  A terrace with tall stone walls and narrow passageways covered in thousands of carved figures and dancers. It’s given its name due to the colored moss discovered on the faces. 

Preah Khan Temple.  A former Hindu temple dedicated to the god Shiva and later converted into a Buddhist monastery. At its peak, it’s believed over 100,000 monks lived and studied on its grounds. A bridge lined with Buddha statues crosses a small mote to each its gate. A corridor leads through the temple past various chambers with hallways branching off from it. In its courtyards are stupas carved with ornate designs and niches where statues of Shiva once stood. Most of the temple has collapsed with large stone boulders and piles of rubble in its place. 

Neak Pean Temple.  An island temple surrounded by a large rectangular lake. A boardwalk leads to the island and a trail to the temple. A small stupa sits on a round platform resembling a blooming lotus flower. It’s surrounded by four pools, each used for healing and cleansing in ancient times. 

Banteay Srei Temple.  A temple described as one of the best surviving examples of Khmer architecture and artistry. Carved from orange and pink sand stone, it’s famed for its fine stonework and highly ornate designs. A wall surrounds several small stupas, each decorated in detailed motifs of Hindu gods and deities. The temple is small compared to many of those across Angkor Wat but no less impressive. It’s located about an hour from the city by tuk tuk. 

Baksei Chamkrong Temple.  A five level and four sided step pyramid built during the 10th Century. Steep steps lead to shrine on top where an ancient legend is recounted in Sanskrit writings. Originally dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva, the temple was later converted into a Buddhist shrine. 

Siem Reap City Sights 

Wat Bo.  A functioning Buddhist monastery with temples for monks to mediate and pray, buildings where they live and a school where they study. The main temple dates back to the 19th Century. Its interior walls are painted in colorful frescos of prayer, meditation, dance, battle and legends. Several were being restored at the time. 

Wat Preah Prom Rath.  A very colorful Buddhist temple with Khmer style buildings and golden stupas. The main temple sits on a base of gilded lotus pedals surrounded by a courtyard with vibrantly painted reliefs depicting Buddhist stories. Inside is a golden Buddha sitting on an ornate altar and a 500 year old reclining Buddha. Monks wearing orange robes walk around the grounds planted with plumeria trees, sculpted bushes and statues dedicated to the legend of the temple. 

Royal Residence Garden.  A residence dedicated to the Cambodian Royal Family when visiting Siem Reap. The surrounding gardens and grounds are open for free to visitors. We walked around the landscaped hedges, trees with large bats and visited a small Khmer style Buddhist temple.

The French Quarter.  A historic area of the city with pastel painted French style buildings home to cafes, restaurants, various shops and the Old Market. 

Pub Street.  A popular nightlife street in the city center with restaurants and bars, colorful lights, live music, outdoor patios and daily happy hours. It’s a lively spot to enjoy local beers, inexpensive drinks and to meet other travelers. 

Siem Reap Markets

Phsar Leu Thom Tmey.  The city’s largest and most traditional market. Inside the complex of aisles are vendors selling clothing, textiles, jewelry, electronics, appliances and basic necessities. Food vendors line the outside of the market selling all types of fresh and local ingredients like fruits, vegetables, exotic meats, lake fish, street food and insects. Like all local markets, visiting is a great way to immerse oneself in the local culture. We bought a week’s worth of groceries for less than $20 USD. 

Phsar Samaki Vegetable & Fruit Market.  A dimly lit market underneath a shed of roofs with vendors selling vegetables, fruits, butchered meats, dried fish, jars of spices and sauces. It’s not necessarily the cleanest market in the world but has a very local feeling to it, affordable prices and friendly locals. 

The Old Market.  A historic market in the French Quarter with aisles of vendors selling clothing, bags, jewelry and souvenirs. The center has a farmers market with fresh fruits, vegetables, herbs, seafood, meats, nuts and other locally farmed goods. 

Made in Cambodia Market.  A craft market with booths of vendors selling locally made items and souvenirs like beaded jewelry, paintings of Angkor Wat, Khmer masks, colorful sarongs, paper fans, woven baskets and aromatic spices.

The Night Market.  A popular nighttime market along the Siem Reap River in the city center. It’s known for its street food with cooks serving skewered and fried meats, fish and veggies from mobile kitchens and carts. 

Lake Tonle Sap Stilt Village Tour 

Lake Tonle Sap is the largest freshwater lake in South East Asia. It’s home to fishing communities known as stilt villages. Houses and buildings are raised on 10 meter tall bamboo stilts to accommodate flooding during the rainy season. We visited the village in March during the dry season. We walked underneath stilt houses, crossed makeshift bamboo bridges and followed along a narrow river with colorful long boats. We were continually greeted by locals and small children running out from houses to say hello and give high-fives. After the village tour, we boarded a long boat and rode it to a floating restaurant on the lake where we ate fresh fish, drank Cambodian beer and watched the sunset. We booked our tour with Angkor Wat Shared Tours on Viator. It included round trip transportation from Siem Reap. 

LGBTQ+ Scene   

We felt very welcomed and accepted all across Cambodia and especially in Siem Reap. The city center has a small but thriving gay scene. We visited two gay bars and met openly gay locals, expats and other travelers.

B Ball.  A small gay bar on a narrow alleyway decorated in colorful lights, rainbow banners and progress flags. We stopped in for their buy 1 get 1 free happy hour from 5-7pm. 

Rendezvous Bar.  A small but popular gay bar with stiff drinks, friendly bartenders and a welcoming atmosphere. The bar is popular with older gay men and expats. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Changkran Khmer.  A traditional Cambodian restaurant with a menu featuring local dishes including seafood from Lake Tonle Sap. The ambiance is peaceful with an open air second floor dining room hidden in the middle of a residential neighborhood. We visited multiple times and tasted various dishes. 

• Fish Amok.  Cambodia’s national dish, dating back to the Khmer Empire. It’s made from lake fish wrapped steamed in coconut milk and curry. We ordered it prepared two ways, served traditionally in a banana leaf bowl and served in a young coconut. 

• Knorb Trey.  Snake head fish stewed with a Khmer curry in a banana leaf bowl. 

• Clay Pot Fish.  Rice noodles and lake fish cooked with warm spices and vegetables in a clay pot. 

Angkor Hand-Pulled Noodles and Dumplings.  A small restaurant with inexpensive Cambodian noodle dishes and fried dumplings including vegetarian dishes. 

The 1961.  A cafe and bar with strong brewed coffee, cocktails and brunch dishes. It’s popular with digital nomads. 

Location Specifics

Dress Modesty.  When visiting temples and museums, it’s important to dress modestly. Visitors are asked to cover their legs and shoulders as well as remove hats and shoes before entering. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not directly safe for drinking. It’s best to boil or filter it. 

Currency.  The US Dollar and Cambodian Riel are used interchangeably.

Cash vs Card.  Cash is the preferred method of payment everywhere. Few places accept credit or debit card. 

Language.  The official language of Cambodia is Khmer however most people speak a little English. We learned few Khmer words while here:

• Hello = Suostei (so-say-tie)

• Thank you = Arkoun (are-kun)

• Good bye = Leahaey (lee-hai)

Where to Stay 

We stayed in a two bedroom house on the north side of the city. It made for a quiet and peaceful retreat with ease of access to Angkor Wat and the city center. The house had a relaxing porch with a hammock, a living room with floor cushions and a kitchen well equipped for cooking our own meals. We booked on Airbnb. 

Elsewhere in Cambodia 

From the ancient temples of Angkor Wat and Siem Reap to Phnom Penh's royal landmarks, markets and cultural attractions, discover more of Cambodia beyond the temple complex.

Phnom Penh Travel Guide: Royal Palace, Markets & Cambodian Culture.  Discover Cambodia's capital through historic landmarks, bustling markets, riverside neighborhoods and the country's evolving cultural identity.

Saigon Travel Guide: Markets, Nightlife & Vietnamese Culture

Saigon, Vietnam

Saigon is bustling Vietnamese city famed for its chaotic streets, vibrant nightlife and historic sights. Narrow alleyways and roads are lined with thin buildings, home to coffee shops, cocktail bars and seafood restaurants.

Ho Chi Minh City 

Saigon is formally known as Ho Chi Minh City or HCMC. Modern skyscrapers define the skyline, each illuminated in colorful lights at night. Moto bikes continually zip across the city, beeping at pedestrians stuck in zebra crossings. The city is an important location to learn about the war and unification of Vietnam. We only spent a few days here but could easily get lost exploring this city for weeks. 

Things to Do

Mail a Post Card.  Visit the French Colonial style Ho Chi Minh Post Office to buy a post card and mail it back home. Baskets of post cards feature Vietnamese artwork, historic sights and cultural symbols. We bought a couple, stamped them with local postage and sent them on their way around the world. It’s very touristy and fun experience that brings back the nostalgia of traveling in a time before smart phones and social media. 

Order Coffee at The Cafe Apartments.  A nine floor building along the Nguyen Hue Walking Street with dozens of cafes serving Vietnamese style coffees. From the street, neon signs, paper lanterns and string lights cover the building and its balconies. We visited Saigon Oi, a cafe on the center of the fifth floor decorated in plants and vines with a balcony overlooking the walking street. We ordered an iced coconut coffee and iced matcha latte, each topped with coffee and tea jellies. 

Shop at the Cho Ben Thanh Market.  A historic Vietnamese market with aisles of souvenir stands, custom clothing makers, jewelry shops and vendors selling coffee, spices and candies. Shops will give outrageous prices for their goods. Negotiate for the cost of everything, offering to pay as little as 10-20% of the asking price. Walk away when they say no. They’ll chase after and eventually accept. 

• Street Food Kitchens.  Inside Cho Ben Thanh Market are restaurants serving fresh pressed juices and seafood focused Vietnamese dishes. Try the sugarcane juice and Chao Tom, minced shrimp wrapped around sugarcane and grilled.

• Farmers Market.  An outdoor farmers market lines the rear of the market. Vendors sell fruits, vegetables, tofu, a variety of eggs and fresh caught seafood like crabs, prawns, squid and whole fish. We shopped here for groceries during our time in town. 

Eat Vietnamese Street Food.  With its proximity to the coast, seafood is popular across Saigon, especially as street food. We visited, Quan Ang Cua, a local seafood restaurant with tanks of live sea creatures ranging from baby octopus, red snapper, grouper, conch, prawns, crabs, lobsters, scallops and snails. We ordered a bowl of snails cooked in coconut brith and crab sautéed in garlic butter. Other street food includes stir fried noodles, five colored sticky rice and boba milk tea.

Ride the Saigon Waterbus.  A water taxi with stations along Saigon river. We booked tickets to sightsee and watch the sunset, riding the full route between Bach Dang and Linh Dong stations. We embarked an hour before sunset and returned an hour after sunset. The route offered views of the modern skyline, landmark buildings, French style chateaus, riverside parks, contemporary bridges, local neighborhoods and waterfront restaurants.

Pro Tip.  Book tickets at the station a day in advance. When buying tickets, request an outdoor or window seat to maximize views. The most central station is Bach Dang.

Visit the Cu Chi Tunnels.  The infamous tunnels were dug by the Vietcong and Cu Chi guerrillas to fight against the Americans during the Vietnam War. The former battle ground, now a museum teaches about the 250km of tunnels, the history of the war, the use of conventional and chemical weapons, guerrilla warfare and booby traps. We crawled through a widened 100 meter section of a tunnel, watched as people fired machine guns and tasted cassava often eaten by soldiers. The tunnels are located about 1 hour 30 minutes from Saigon. We visited with Vietnam Travel Group and booked on Viator. 

Walking Streets

Bui Vien Walking Street.  A nightlife street with bars, clubs, tattoo shops and massage parlors. Bright and colorful lights illuminate the street as loud music, live singers, go-go dancers, crowds of visitors, beeping moto bikes and hosts eager to flag down customers create a spectrum of sensory stimuli. Numbered bars and sidewalk patios with fold up chairs line both sides of the street selling inexpensive Vietnamese beers like the city’s namesake, Saigon. 

Nguyen Hue Walking Street.  A walking street leading from the French Colonial style city hall to the Saigon River. It’s lined with a range of hotels, cafes, restaurants and stores. Large digital screens display banners of the communist flag and propaganda. Festivals and events are often held here. At the time, decorations from Tet celebrations the month prior remained on display.

Book Street.  A pedestrian only street with a couple dozen bookshops, cafes and kiosks selling mostly Vietnamese books. We strolled through the shops looking at the beautiful covers and Vietnamese translations of English titles. 

See the Sights

Independence Palace.  The former seat of government for the Southern Vietnam Republic. It’s now a historical museum and symbol of Vietnam’s reunification after the fall of Saigon. The armored tanks used to storm the palace gates and a fighter jet used to bomb it during the south’s collapse are displayed on the front lawn. 

The building is a midcentury beauty defined by its rectangular planes, minimal detailing, lofty corridors and symmetrical design. It was inspired by a French colonial palace that once stood in its place while taking on elements of ancient Vietnamese design. Its ground floor is mostly open air with rooms used for hosting state banquets, cabinet meetings and conferences. The second floor served as the presidential office and residence with a grand foyer, reception hall, ambassadors hall, national security chamber, bedroom and wardrobe. The third floor is the entertainment floor with a game room, theater, first lady’s reception room and a library. The fourth floor has a gala space, a helicopter pad and two large circles noting where bombs were dropped on the palace. 

Skydeck Saigon.  An observation deck located on the 49th floor of the city’s iconic Lotus Tower with panoramic views of the city, countryside and Saigon River. 

Notre Dame Cathedral.  A French colonial cathedral designed to look like Notre Dame with rose windows, two tall spires and buttress like facades. The cathedral was closed and almost fully covered in scaffolding during the time we visited.

Saigon Opera House.  A French colonial opera house in the middle of downtown with a traditional arched facade decorated in classical designs and Greek statues. The neighborhood surrounding it is home to many French luxury brands and high end hotels. 

Tao Dan Park.  A city park with shaded walkways, flower gardens, a lily pond, pagoda inspired pavilions, various sculptures and a temple dedicated to a former king. We packed a lunch and dined in the park with bubble milk tea. 

Cocktail Bars 

Like many major cities, cocktail bars are popular across Saigon. In typical style, we visited a speakeasy, tiki bar and roof top bar.

Dot Drinkery & Kitchen.  A speakeasy style cocktail bar on the third floor of an unassuming building with a dimly lit interior and Veitnamese decor. The mixologists craft flavorful and aromatic cocktails with local ingredients like kumquat juice, pandan leaves, lemongrass and shrimp salt. Try the Big City Life and The Guava Dawn.

Waikiki Bar & Restaurant.  A two floor tiki bar with beachy decor on the Bui Vien Walking Street. Come here for tropical drinks served in tiki mugs and fresh coconuts. Relax with a Singapore Sling or Mai Tai and watch the busyness of the street pass-by. 

The View Rooftop Bar.  A rooftop bar and restaurant on the Bui Vien Walking Street with panoramic city views and well made cocktails. Try a classic lyche martini or the Hoi An Ancient Town, a gin and lotus flower drink served in a ceramic mug with a rooster painted on it.

Location Specifics

Getting Around.  We explored the city mainly on foot and by calling Grab. Grab is South East Asia’s taxi hailing app. Grabs are widely available and inexpensive. 

Crossing Traffic.  Crossing traffic can be intimidating in Vietnam and cities like Saigon. We cautiously walked into traffic with our hands out at zebra crosswalks, keeping a slow but consistent pace as scooters passed by on either side of us. It definitely takes some getting used to. 

Shoes.  Expect to remove shoes when entering temples, homes and many businesses. Many hotels and some restaurants offer paper slippers for dining or using the restroom. 

Avoid Pointing.  It is considered rude to point with one finger. Instead, use your full hand to gesture towards something you mean to point at. 

Card vs Cash.  Cash is the preferred method of payment. Many businesses will not accept credit or debit cards. The Vietnamese Dong is the local currency. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption. It’s best to buy bottled or filtered water.

Safety.  Like most of Vietnam, Saigon is safe to visit with no need for extra precautions. 

Language.  Vietnamese and English are widely spoken, seen on street signs and restaurant menus across the country. That said, it’s still good to know a few Vietnamese phrases.

• Hello = Xin chào (Sing-Chow)

• Thank you = Cảm ơn (Com-Un)

• Good bye = Tạm biệt (Tam-Be-Et)

• See you later = Hẹn gặp lại (Hen-Gap-Lie)

Where to Stay

We stayed at Ekomo Home, a small apartment building with short term rentals. The cozy fifth floor unit had a full kitchen and city views with a basic rooftop terrace one floor above. It’s located less than 5 minutes to the Bui VienWalking Street and 20 minutes from theCho Ben Thanh Market. 

Elsewhere in Vietnam 

From Saigon's vibrant markets and nightlife to Hanoi's historic neighborhoods, Ninh Binh's karst landscapes and Hoi An's ancient streets, discover more of Vietnam through these travel guides:  

Hanoi Travel Guide: Old Quarter, Street Food & Vietnamese Culture.  Explore Vietnam's capital through historic neighborhoods, bustling markets, street food culture and centuries of Vietnamese history.

Ninh Binh Travel Guide: Trang An, Karst Landscapes & Ancient Temples.  Discover dramatic limestone karsts, river journeys through Trang An, ancient temples and some of northern Vietnam's most scenic landscapes.

Hoi An Travel Guide: Ancient Town, Lanterns & Vietnamese Street Food.  Wander through the historic old town known for colorful lanterns, traditional architecture, riverside charm and exceptional Vietnamese cuisine.

For Next Time… 

Saigon is one of the few major cities we could see ourselves living! It’s urban charm, vibrant energy and worldly presence beacon us to return. We have a short list of city sights and countryside escapes that we plan to experience on our next trip. 

Explore the Saigon Waterbus Route. Sightseeing on the waterbus was a great way to see the river and city! When we return, we plan to spend a day exploring the neighborhoods and sights along several of the stops.

Ben Nghe Street Food Market.  A large food hall specializing in Vietnamese cuisine and street food. It’s a popular tourist spot to enjoy local and worldly flavors. 

Cat Tien National Park.  A tropical forest and protected bio-reserve home to multitudes of endangered and exotic flora and fauna. Self guided bike and foot trails lead through the park while guides can be hired for “safaris.” It’s located about 4 hours from Saigon. 

Cai Rang (Can Tho) Floating Market.  Merchants gather on hundreds of small wooden boats selling fruits and vegetables, cooking street food and performing Vietnamese folk music. The market is located a few hours from Saigon and best experienced in the early hours of 4-6am. 

Ninh Binh Travel Guide: Trang An, Karst Landscapes & Ancient Temples

Ninh Binh, The Ancient Capital of Vietnam

Ninh Binh is the ancient capital of Vietnam. It’s a place where history, nature and culture seamlessly blend together. Scenic landscapes are defined by towering karst mountains, underground rivers, deep cave systems and endless fields of rice paddies. Rowers navigate passengers through the tranquil waterways and countryside. Historic temples, royal tombs and modern day pagodas invite visitors and worshippers to their halls. Small villages with charming homestays and restaurants serving regional cuisine provide a welcoming and local atmosphere. We spent a few days here, sightseeing at a relaxing pace.

Trang An Boat Tour

A breathtaking landscape covered in towering rock formations, lush tree covered mountains and underground rivers. Ancient temples and pagodas are perched on the hills and along the waterways, surrounded by nothing but nature. Even on a cloudy day, the haze covered silhouettes of the landscape create a mystifying allure. The best way to visit is by row boat tour. 

Trang An Temples 

Dinh Dien Temple.  A temple dating back over 1,000 years sitting on the edge of a river bank against the backdrop of a karst mountain. Within is wooden and stone facade is a glowing altar with statues, vases, offerings and smoldering incense. It’s located at the entrance of Hang Dot Cave, a 1,000 meter long cave and the longest in Trang An. 

Tran Temple.  One of the most sacred and ancient temples in Trang An. It’s decorated with intricate stone cavings featuring the four sacred animals, the dragon, turtle, phoenix and unicorn. It served as a defensive fort for the ancient kingdom over 1,000 years ago. It’s only reachable via a stone staircase between two karst formations. 

Khong Temple.  A legendary temple dating back to the 10th century. It honors an ancient king who was assassinated and his royal officials who secretly buried his body then killed themselves in order to keep the location a secret. 

Bao Hieu Pagoda.  A modern temple designed in ancient style near the Khong Temple. Its symmetrical facade is made from carved ironwood and limestone. Inside is a glowing shrine with golden statues of the Buddha and several monks. Outside are bronze statues and stone motifs of the four sacred animals. 

Trang An Caves 

Hang Toi Cave.  A 320 meter long cave with very narrow walls and low hanging rock formations. We had to duck several times. It was incredible how the rower was able to navigate through it. 

Hang Nau Ruou Cave.  A 250 meter long arched cave that weaves through the mountain. Deep inside sheets of sediment create angular walls and ceilings resembling the shape of a rhombus. The exit chamber holds large ceramic jars of aging wine. 

Son Duong Cave.  A 250 meter long cave tunneling through the karst mountains with hundreds of stalactites suspended from the ceiling.

Quy Hau Cave.  A short 100 meter cave with no artificial illumination giving it an untouched natural feeling.

Tips for Visiting Trang An

Arrive Early.  Get an early start before thousands of people arrive by bus. We arrived just before 7am and quickly made it to a row boat. 

Choose A Route.  There are three different routes through Trang An. We chose Route 1, the longest route and least crowded. It brought us through 9 different caves and to multiple temples.

Boat Size.  Boats fit four people, we were paired with an other couple. 

Tipping.  Tipping is expected. Tip the rower 10% of the ticket fee.

Skull Island 

A movie set created for King Kong Skull Island with a village of thatched conical huts. It’s viewable from one route through Trang An and from a mountainous hike overlooking it. A trail leads from just outside of the village into the karst mountains. At its summit is a bamboo hut with views of the Island and the surrounding landscape. We visited on a foggy day which created it a mysterious allure. The park has several replica conical huts that can be visited, an outdoor restaurant and bamboo platforms above the river for swimming and sunning during the warmer months. 

Tam Coc Boat Tour

Tam Coc is a river valley flanked by the famed karst mountains and sprouting rice paddies and of Ninh Binh’s landscape. Much like Trang An, the best way to tour the waterway is by row boat tour. Rowers often paddle using their feet, a surprisingly common sight. The river weaves through the valley and into tiny slits within the mountains to dark caves. On a cloudy day, the mountains fade into the haze creating a mysterious atmosphere that spans across the landscape.

Tips for Visiting Tam Coc

Arrive Early.  Arrive by 7:30am or earlier to avoid the large tour groups. Buy tickets from the tour office and take the electric shuttle to the boat launch. 

Choose A Route.  There is only one boat route however there is an additional option to see multiple temples along the waterway by electric shuttle. 

Boat Size.  Boats are assigned by group, ranging from individual to groups as large as six. 

Tipping.  Tipping is expected. Tip the rower 10% of the ticket fee.

Bai Dinh Pagoda Complex 

Bai Dinh is one of the most impressive Buddhist sights in the world and the largest temple complex in Vietnam. It dates back to the 11th Century and has a developing modern day expansion keeping true to the original architectural styles and symmetry. 

Internal Three Gates.  An entrance temple with three large doorways. Together, they symbolize entering the world of the Buddha. Inside are two giant bronze statues of an armored warrior. One encouraging people to do good deeds and one warning people against doing evil deeds. 

Arhat Corridor.  A lively corridor stretching across the temple complex and landscape with 500 stone statues of monks that have reached enlightenment. They are all unique and incredibly animated, each holding different postures and expressions. Some range from stoic and wise to laughing and humorous, peaceful and calm, young and old. People often rub their knees, feet, bellies or objects they’re holding for good luck. It holds the record for the longest Arhat corridor in Asia and largest number of Arhat statues in Vietnam.

Bell Tower.  An octagonal three tiered pagoda housing the largest bronze bell in Vietnam. Steps lead to dark wooden pagoda’s  belfry where the trunk of an entire ironwood tree is used to ring it. We could only imagine echoing noise it must make. Below the bell is an equally impressive 70 ton bronze drum.

The Kuan-Yin Hall.  A major temple housing a giant gilded statue of the Avalokiteshvara Buddha. A version of the Buddha with 11 heads and 1000 arms seated on a lotus flower. The is a modern addition to the complex built with historical accuracy. It has an ironwood and brick facade, three large gates or doors and a brown terracotta tiled roof with tail feather tipped cornices. We bought and donated a terracotta roof tile to the pagoda for its future repairs. We signed our names with the words “eternal love.”

The Buddha Sakyamuni Hall.  A major temple taller than the previous with a large gilded Buddha sitting on a lotus flower at its center. Its walls are lined with hundreds of niches containing smaller Buddha statues. Its ceiling features an arched structure carved in motifs of dragons as if flying across the sky above. In front of the Buddha is an alter with large ceramic vases and offerings of fruits, sweets, flowers and money.

The Three Periods Hall.  The final major temple and largest of the three. Inside are three gilded statues of the Buddha representing the past, present and future. Each sits on lotus flower with a golden backdrop behind them, making different signs with their hands. It is the largest set of Period Buddhas in Vietnam. Like the precious temples, there are alters for offering and its walls are decorated in niches of gilded sitting Buddhas.

Maitreya Buddha Statue.  A giant bronze statue of the happy looking big bellied Buddha. It stands on a pedestal in the open air and is the largest of its type in Asia.

The Sacred Bodhi Tree.  A propagation of the world’s longest living tree, aged over 2,500 years. It is thought that Buddha attained enlightenment underneath it.

Bao Thien Stupa.  The tallest stupa in all of Asia, measuring 100 meters tall. It’s an impressive sight visible from around the temple complex. An elevator leads to the 12th floor with views of the landscape and surroundings temples. Stairs lead to the 13th floor with a gilded alter and domed ceiling with reliefs of various postures Buddhas. It’s a modern addition to the complex, completed in 2008.

Ancient Pagoda.  A 1,000 year old pagoda at the entrance of the ancient mountain temple complex. It has a simple four tiered design with various arches and hieroglyphs. It leads up a trail to two sacred cave temples. 

Buddha Worshiping Cave.  A cave temple in the mountainous part of the ancient complex. Inside of its cavernous walls are altars and statues of Buddha built upon rock formations. 

Mother Goddess Worshiping Cave.  A sacred cave with several Buddhist altars and a natural hot spring surrounded by winding statues of two sea dragons. 

The Hoa Lu Ancient Capital 

Hoa Lu is the sight of Vietnam’s Ancient Capital with royal temples, pagodas and the tombs of past emperors.It’s culturally significant to the Vietnamese and an important part of the country’s history. 

Dinh Tien Hong King Temple.  A temple dedicated to the first king of ancient Vietnam credited with unifying the country during the 9th Century. Multiple gates and tranquil courtyards with koi ponds lead to the main temple. Stone stelae sitting on statues of turtles, a reproduction of the emperor’s throne and a stone dragon bed a placed throughout. Inside its intricately carved wooden and stone facade are statues of the former emperor. People often pray to him and pay him tribute. 

Le Dai Hanh King Temple.  A temple dedicated to a revered king from the 9th Century responsible for expanding ancient Vietnam’s growth and prosperity. It’s very similar to the previous temple with a slightly different courtyard.

Tomb of Emperor Le Dai Hanh.  The burial sight of a Vietnamese emperor built against the backdrop of the mountains facing a rice paddy. It’s located 1km from the temple and much lesser visited. 

Tuyet Tinh Coc (Buddha Cave)

A lake park surrounded by karst mountains with Buddhist temples at its two ends. The park is accessible through a tunnel, painted with vibrant murals of Vietnam’s landscape, history and legends. At one end of the lake is a cliffside cave with golden Buddha statues and a sacred spring inside. On the opposite end of the lake is a wooden pagoda built upon a rocky ridge. People often come here to run loops around the lake, feed the koi fish and picnic. 

Trang An Village

Located near the entrance in Trang An between rice paddies and karst formations is the rural village of Xuan Ang Ngoai. It’s lesser visited and has an authentic atmosphere. People fish in the canals, older women sell produce at tiny roadside shops, children play soccer in front of the temple and karaoke echos from people’s homes at night. The village is popular with backpackers and budget travelers for its homestays. A homestay is small local run hotel that offer room and board. Throughout the town are affordable restaurants and cafes. It’s the perfect for biking to Trang An, Tam Coc and the Ancient Citadel without the need to hire a guide or join a tour. 

Vietnamese Cuisine in Ninh Binh 

The cuisine in Ninh Binh is similar to that of many other places in Vietnam. Dishes like pho, banh mi, spring rolls, rice and noodles are commonly eaten and served. There are some dishes that stand out.

Fried Tofu.  Fried tofu stewed in a variety of sauces. The two most common styles are tofu with lemongrass and tofu with tomatoes.  

Burnt Rice.  Large puffed rice crackers served with a savory dipping sauce or stew made from meats and vegetables. 

Dumplings.  Crispy pan fried dumplings stuffed with meats, vegetables or seafood.

Bao.  Puffy steamed bread rolls. They’re eaten at breakfast or as a snack. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Restaurant Trang A Riverside Garden.  A riverside restaurant with Vietnamese dishes common in Ninh Binh. We ordered the lemongrass tofu and crispy fish dumplings. The next day, we returned for a round of local beers and game of pool. 

Trang An NP.  A roadside restaurant in the village with generous portions of local dishes. We tried the burnt rice with vegetable stew, the crispy spring rolls and tomato tofu. 

Cafe The Began.  A small cafe with Vietnamese and European style coffees. We visited one morning for a brown coffee (coffee with sweetened condensed milk).  While sipping on coffee, we played a game of chess. 

Getting Here & Around

By Transfer.  To reach Ninh Binh, we took a door to door transfer from Hanoi. The trip took about two hours. On our return, we were dropped off at the airport in Hanoi. Book here to reach Ninh Ninh. Book here to return from Ninh Binh.

By Bike.  The best way to get around Ninh Binh is on a bicycle. From our homestay, we were able to reach Trang An, Tom Coc and the Ancient Citadel each within 30 minutes. Most homestays offer bike rentals for a small fee. We paid the equivalent of $4 for 2 bikes during our entire stay.   

Location Specifics

Card vs Cash.  Cash is the preferred method of payment. Many businesses will not accept credit or debit cards. The Vietnamese Dong is the local currency. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption. It’s best to buy bottled or filtered water.

Safety.  Like most of Vietnam, Ninh Binh is safe to visit with no need for extra precautions. 

Language.  Vietnamese and English are widely spoken, seen on street signs and restaurant menus across the country. That said, it’s still good to know a few Vietnamese phrases.

• Hello = Xin chào (Sing-Chow)

• Thank you = Cảm ơn (Com-Un)

• Good bye = Tạm biệt (Tam-Be-Et)

• See you later = Hẹn gặp lại (Hen-Gap-Lie)

Where to Stay

Greenland Homestay.  A homestay in a small village near Trang An. We stayed here during our time in Ninh Binh, biking to the nearby sights. The homestay has private rooms, bike rentals, free breakfast, a beer fridge, restaurant and a pool. Reserve on Booking. 

Elsewhere in Vietnam 

From Ninh Binh's limestone landscapes and ancient temples to Hanoi's historic streets, Hoi An's lantern lined alleys and Saigon's urban energy, discover more of Vietnam through these travel guides: 

Hanoi Travel Guide: Old Quarter, Street Food & Vietnamese Culture.  Explore Vietnam's capital through historic neighborhoods, bustling markets, street food culture and centuries of Vietnamese history.

Hoi An Travel Guide: Ancient Town, Lanterns & Vietnamese Street Food.  Wander through the historic old town known for colorful lanterns, traditional architecture, riverside charm and exceptional Vietnamese cuisine.

Saigon Travel Guide: Markets, Nightlife & Vietnamese Culture.  Experience Vietnam's largest city through lively markets, rooftop bars, local food culture and the dynamic pace of modern Vietnamese life.

For Next Time…

We would re-do our entire trip to Ninh Binh during a different time of year with a lesser chance of cloudy and cold weather. If we return, we may choose the peak season during November or December opposed to mid February. 

Hanoi Travel Guide: Old Quarter, Street Food & Vietnamese Culture

Hanoi, Vietnam

Hanoi is a sprawling metropolis abound with rich cultural experiences, a storied history and modern appeal. The capital city dates back to ancient times, is home to landmark sights and sacred temples. Paper lanterns and communist flags often decorate its chaotic streets as people speed by on scooters. Bustling night markets, sidewalk cafes and street food vendors lure in locals and visitors alike. Nearby natural wonders offer a peaceful escape from the city’s lively pace. 

Old Quarter Streets

Hanoi’s Old Quarter is one of the most lively neighborhoods of the city with several “themed” streets. It’s popular for its night markets, nightlife, food scene, train streets and cultural products. 

Hang Buom (Nightlife Street).  An incredibly vibrant, loud and chaotic nightlife street  with dozens of bars catering to all crowds of people. We bar hopped among the chaos, enjoying a bottle of soju at street level and cocktails from a balcony overlooking it. 

Hang Dao (Night Market Street).  A street with a nightly market starting at 7pm. Tents of vendors sell clothing, jewelry, knock off hand bags and various goods while food carts fry and grill types of Vietnamese street food.

Hang Ma (Festival Street).  An street with several stores selling decorations for celebrations like Tet or Lunar New Year. Shops stand out with the red, yellow and golden glow of paper lanterns, tasseled ornaments, begging cats, dragon puppets, red envelopes and incense sticks.

Hang Gai (Silk Street).  The silk district with several shops and tailors selling silk textiles, clothing and accessories.

Tong Duy Tan (Food Street).  A street lined with restaurants selling Vietnamese dishes, vegetarian meals and various forms of hot pot. Twinkle lights and paper lanterns decorate the trees above the street as Moto bikes zip by and locals eat.

Cha Ca Street.  A street named after Hanoi’s most famous local dish, Cha Ca. Several restaurants prepare and serve it, one of the most well known is Cha Ca La Vong. It’s the only item on the menu and they’ve had over 150 years to perfect their recipe. 

Phung Hung (Train Street).  A narrow railway sandwiched between a canyon of buildings lined with dozens of cafes and bars serving Vietnamese coffees and beers. The street is covered in a mangle of string lights, colorful lanterns and illuminated signs with track side patios and second floor balconies. It’s easily one of the most exhilarating streets in the old town. Hundreds of people flock here to the to experience the train rushing past during an adrenaline packed minute. 

Pro Tip.  Ask any cafe staff when the next train is scheduled and the direction it’s traveling from. Return at least one hour before to get a good spot. Visit at night when the atmosphere is bright and lively. 

Good to Know.  There are a lot of scammy people blocking access to the train street. They will try to charge an admission or force you to sit at their cafe. Ignore them and push past saying you have a reservation elsewhere. 

Tau Khan Thien (Train Street South).  An alternate train street nestled tightly between an alleyway of small buildings. Though designed for tourists, it’s lesser visited and feels more local. Many cafes are operated out of people’s homes while older Vietnamese women watch to make sure no one gets hurt. As the train approaches, stop keepers close up awnings, pack away furniture and instruct people to tuck up against the walls. It’s thrilling as the train approaches and passes with barely any clearance between us and it. 

Pro Tip.  Order a beer and place the bottle cap on the tracks for a flattened souvenir. 

See the Temples and Sights 

Temple of Literature.  An ancient Confucian temple dedicated to education and the development of talent. It was created by past emperors as a place for the most revered scholars to study and take a series of exams. Its symmetrical design is very symbolic. A central path suggests the path to enlightenment while a series of gates signifies the advance of knowledge. Today, students come to the grounds to mediate, study and pray for knowledge, good grades and their future. 

• Van Mieu Gate.  A three tiered entrance gate to the temple grounds adorned with motifs of dragons. It leads to a courtyard with a grassy lawn, sculpted bushes and pools with koi fish. 

• Khue Van Pagoda.  A red painted wooden pagoda held up by four stone columns representing the elements. It features designs of dragons and a circle symbolizing the infinite nature of enlightenment. It is considered the symbol of Hanoi. 

• Well of Heavenly Clarity.  A courtyard with a large koi pond at its center. It’s flanked by TheStelae of Doctors, a series ofpavilions housing statues of turtles with stelae placed on top. Each stelae is inscribed with writings from pervious royal scholars.

• Courtyard of the Sages.  A brick paved courtyard used for royal exams. Its sides are flanked by planters with bonsai trees and former class rooms, now a museum dedicated to the history of the complex and its scholars.

• House of Ceremonies.  A pavilion in the Courtyard of the Sageswith two large dragon sculptures centered on top of the terracotta tiled roof.

• Sanctuary of Confucius.  A temple dedicated to Confucius. Inside are statues of him and alters with burning sticks of intense, offerings of citrus fruits, cookies and flowers.

• Thai Hoc Hall.  A recently rebuilt pagoda dedicated to the emperors that founded The Temple of Literature. Inside of its two floors are statues of the emperors and alters to make offerings. 

Ancient Citadel.  The royal grounds of Vietnam’s ancient capital. Much of it was leveled during the French colonial period. Original stone dragon steps lead to where to former royal palace once stood. A museum houses artifacts discovered at archeological dig sights including ornate terracotta roof tiles, cornices of dragons, porcelain dishes and woodblocks used for printing. Exposed dig sights, piles of stacked bricks and terracotta roof tiles recovered from them can be seen throughout the grounds. 

Hoan Kiem Lake. A sacred lake in the old town home to ancient temples and the Legend of the Sword Lake Turtle. The legend says that a golden turtle appeared from the lake and lent a sword to the emperor to defeat an invading army. On weekends the surrounding road becomes a walking street with performers and street food vendors. 

Ngoc Son Temple.  An island temple on Hoan Kiem Lake reachable by a red wooden foot bridge. The temple is a very sacred place for the Vietnamese with multiple shrines dedicated to Confucius. It houses the preserved remains of two possibly extinct giant turtles that once lived in the lake. 

Ba Dinh Square.  A wide road used for parades and ceremonies surrounded by government and communist buildings including the National Assembly, Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, Presidential Palace, Communist Party Headquarters and Government Headquarters. Many are well guarded and forbidden to take photos of. 

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum.  A communist style mausoleum housing the embalmed body of Ho Chi Minh, the founder of modern day Vietnam. 

One Pillar Pagoda.  A pagoda attached to a singular round column in a the middle of a koi and lily pond. Steps walk up to it where there is a shrine for prayers and offerings.

O Quan Chuong (Old East Gate). The only remaining city gate from ancient Hanoi. Its arched red brick and stone gate has a small pagoda on top. It’s only large enough for scooters and pedestrians to pass through. 

Quan Thanh Temple.  A Taoist temple dating back to the founding of ancient Hanoi over 1,000 years ago. Inside is a giant bronze statue of Tao and elaborate altars with offerings. The temple’s walls, doors and columns are decorated in gold painted motifs of clouds and dragons, calligraphy inlaid with mother of pearl and painted reliefs of white tigers, water dragons, cranes and flowering cherry blossom trees.

Things to Do

Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre.  Vietnamese water puppets are a traditional form of entertainment and story telling dating back hundreds of years. At the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre, live musicians, singers and puppeteers put on a beautiful performance depicting over a dozen scenes from Vietnamese folklore and legends. The puppets splash around on stage (aka a pool) against the back drop of a pagoda, disappearing behind a bamboo curtain when scenes change. We watched water dragons slinking back and forth, a comedic fishing scene, phoenixes laying and hatching an egg and Confucius ceremonies. 

Pro Tip. There are multiple shows daily running from afternoon to evening. Arrive at the theater in the morning to buy tickets. The best seats are in rows A, B and C. 

Good to Know. Be considerate and avoid taking repeated photos. It’s distracting to the people behind you. 

Visit the Incense Village.  Burning incense is a daily part of life in Vietnam. It’s commonly used in temples, restaurants and people’s homes. We visited one village where it’s produce, getting to make our own. We saw how raw bamboo is purged of insects, sun dried and then splintered by hand into thin sticks. The sticks are then hand dipped into a vat of red dye to give them their characteristic color. Once dyed, they’re fed into a machine that packs wet incense powder onto them. The incense powder we used was made from ground cinnamon and bamboo. Afterwards, we visited an “Instagram courtyard” covered in bundles of red incense sticks with areas for photo ops. We booked our tour with Tinny Travel on Viator. 

Learn about Conical Hat Making.  Conical hats, called Nón lá in Vietnamese are commonly worn by women to protect from the sun and rain. On our Incense Village Tour, we visited a family home where they’re made, getting to see the stages and process involved in making a hat from start to finish. We painted our own hats inspired by the Temple of Literature and the One Pillar Pagoda. 

Shop at the Thien Thuat Market.  A farmers market lining the curbs of Thien Thuat Street and the adjacent roads in Hanoi’s Old Town. Local merchants display baskets and plastic bins with a variety of goods including meats, seafood, vegetables, fruits, herbs, dried goods and noodles. We shopped here for groceries to cook several of our own meals. 

Pro Tip. Ask around and haggle over prices with vendors before buying. 

Ha Long Bay

Ha Long Bay is one of Vietnam’s many natural wonders and was a highlight of our trip. It’s famed for its hundreds of towering stone islands that sharply rise from the water. Their sheer faces and craggily slopes are covered in patches of foliage. Some are home to caves, coves and beaches. At the time, clouds gave the islands a mystifying appearance. The best way to experience the bay is by boat. 

Sung Sot Cave.  The largest cave in Ha Long Bay. A staircase leads up a karst island to the mouth of the cave. Inside are a series of chambers, each grander than the next. The cave walls are covered in stalactites that drip down to the floor. The ceilings are sculpted into a smooth and rippled pattern from lapping water. The final chamber is absolutely massive. A trail meanders deep into its interior past a large stone column before looping back out. 

Ti Top Island.  A popular island with a yellow sand beach and mountaintop lookout. A 400 step staircase leads to a pagoda with panoramic views of the bay’s karst islands, blue tinted water and anchored ships. It was too cold to swim at the time but we enjoyed the beach and scenery from shore.

Hang Luon Cove. A cove in the middle of a karst island, only accessible through a shallow cave. We kayaked through the cave and around the cove where we were surrounded by steep cliffs and dark green water. We spotted wild monkeys sitting and running along the rocks. 

Le Journey.  We booked an overnight tour of Ha Long Bay with a company called Le Journey. Their beautiful wooden ship has private cabins, a communal dining room and a rooftop deck and bar. The energetic crew kept us and other guests entertained with multiple excursions and activities like squid fishing, a cooking lesson and karaoke. The chef prepared delicious meals including local dishes like Ha Long Bay squid, jellyfish salad and fried rice. The tour included transportation between our stay in Hanoi and the Tuan Chau International Marina about 2 hours 30 minutes away. 

Good to Know.  The sights we visited are some of the most popular in Ha Long Bay. Many tour companies follow the same schedule meaning that hundreds of tourists will descend upon them at the same time. Though crowded, the nature is no less beautiful and time on the boat offers a quiet reprieve. 

Vietnamese Street Food

Street food is popular across Vietnam, especially at night markets. We tried several dishes and treats along the streets of Hanoi. 

• Keo Cu Đo (Rice Paper Candy).  A molasses-like paste mixed with peanuts and sandwiched between two rice paper wafers 

• Bao (Steamed Buns).  Steams bread rolls often shaped like lotus flower. A popular way to eat them is deep fried with a drizzle of sweetened condensed milk. 

• Banh Tieu (Vietnamese Donuts).  Tiny dough balls covered in sesame seeds or sugar glazed and filled with mung bean paste.

• Bánh Rán (Sesame Balls).  Deep fried gelatinous rice balls filled with sweetened bean paste and coated in toasted sesame seeds.

• Banh Dong Xu (Golden Coin Cake).  A sweet pancake filled with mozzarella cheese and griddled in a mold of a Korean coin. it’s a popular street food, often served hot for its long stringy cheese pull.

• Khoai Tay Loc Xoay (Tornado Potatoes).  Hand-cut slices of skewered and twice fried potatoes resembling a vortex. They’re often covered in mayo and sweet chili sauce.

• Bach Tuoc Nuong (Grilled Octopus).  Skewered and barbecued octopus legs cooked over a coal grill.  

• Mực Khô Nướng (Grilled Dried Squid).  A whole dried squid cooked over a charcoal grill. It has a jerky-like texture and is served with sweet chili sauce. 

Vietnamese Cuisine 

• Banh Mi.  A beloved Vietnamese sandwich famed for its baguette style bread baked with a crunchy exterior and pillowy interior. It’s traditionally stuffed with cilantro, cucumber, carrots and meat or tofu.  

• Pho.  A Vietnamese soup made with a base savory broth boiled with warm spices like star anise, cinnamon and ginger. It’s served with rice noodles, vegetables, meat or tofu. 

• Rice Noodles.  Thin and sticky white noodles made from rice flour. They’re served in many dishes or on the side. 

• Cha Ca.  A beloved local dish is made from snakehead fish marinated in turmeric and galangal and sautéed with a mixture of fresh herbs including turmeric, cilantro, dill, spring onions and garlic. It’s served alongside rice noodles, peanuts and chili peppers. 

• Jellyfish Salad.  A salad made from thinly sliced strips of jellyfish mixed with pickled carrots, cucumber, onion in a soy sauce and sesame oil mixture. It has a characteristically crunchy texture and umami forward taste. 

Vietnamese Coffee 

Coffee culture is a popular part of daily life in Vietnam. Street cafes with tiny folding chairs and stackable plastic furnishings commonly spill out onto sidewalks. Groups of locals sit around sipping on their preferred style of coffee often alongside a glass of hot green tea. Typical coffees are: 

• Vietnamese Coffee.  The most popular preparation style, mixed with sweetened condensed milk and served hot or iced. 

• Egg Coffee.  A creamy coffee mixed with whipped egg yolk and sweetened condensed milk. 

• Salt Coffee.  A sweet and savory coffee mixed with salted cream and often dusted in cocoa powder. 

• Coconut Coffee. A thick and sweet coffee mixed with coconut cream. 

• Three in One.  An instant coffee mixture made with coffee crystals, powdered cream and sugar. 

Places to Eat and Drink

Lan Ong Restaurant.  An elevated restaurant serving contemporary adaptations of Vietnamese cuisine. Dishes are beautifully presented and the atmosphere is warm and inviting. Try the Cha Ca served in a clay pot over a wood burning flame, the jellyfish salad made with green papaya & grapefruit, the seafood curry made with prawns & crab claws and for dessert, the sweet potato creme brûlée. 

Cha Ca La Vong.  An extremely local restaurant on the second floor of a historic home, serving Hanoi’s famed dish Cha Ca. The cook brings out a personal grill, pan with the sizzling fish and bowl of herbs. It’s all sautéed together until blanched and aromatic.

Coffee A.  A cafe on a corner in the old quarter with classic Vietnamese coffees. Sit at the wrap around balcony on the second floor overlooking the chaotic street and intersection below. 

Hoangs.  A restaurant with Vietnamese and South East Asian rice and noodles dishes. Try the vegetable fried rice and stir fried rice noodles with seafood.

Tet Restaurant.  A vegetarian Vietnamese restaurant with national and local dishes like pho and fried spring rolls made with fresh vegetables and house made tempe. 

Com Tam Lam Sai Ghenh.  An unassuming restaurant on the Tong Duy Tan Food Street with Vietnamese dishes and hot pot. We shared a seafood hot pot made in a boiling pot of savory broth with a mixture of fresh clams, squid, prawns, tofu, greens and ramen. 

Kem Dua Coffee (Tower Cafe).  A narrow multi-floor cafe with Vietnamese coffees and views of Ho Tay Lake. After climbing 6 floors for a seat, we nicknamed it tower cafe. 

Givral French Bakery.  A chain bakery with French patisserie. We stopped in for a slice of pineapple roll cake and a miniature chantilly cream bouche. 

Ta Ta Cafe.  A cafe with artisan coffees hidden on the second floor of a dilapidated French colonial building. A giant tree grows out of its yellow painted facade while a sign reading “coffee bar” leads up a rickety wooden staircase to its entrance. 

Where to Stay

We stayed on the second floor of an Airbnb in the Old Quarter. It’s near many of the famous streets, central sights, sidewalk cafes and bars we visited. The room was spacious with a balcony overlooking the street, a shared kitchen and roof top washer/dryer.

Getting Around

Grab.  A taxi hailing app similar to Uber or Lyft. Taxis were readily available on the app and cheap to get around the city or from the airport. 

On Foot.  The city is walkable however sidewalks are often blocked by street restaurants, parked scooters and merchandise from shops. Be cautious when crossing roads, watching for cars and scooters. 

Location Specifics

Cash vs Card.  Most businesses and vendors are cash only. Clothing shops often accept card with a 1-3% fee. 

Vegetarian Food.  Vegetarian dishes are popular and easy to spot on menus. The word “Chay”after any dish means it’s vegetarian. 

Safety.  Vietnam is generally a safe country to visit. The ancient town of Hoi An is no exception. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Vietnamese are openly welcoming of LGBTQ+ travelers. When noticing our wedding rings, local women would ask how long we’ve been married and call us a happy couple.

Language.  Vietnamese and English are widely spoken, seen on street signs and restaurant menus across the country. That said, it’s still good to know a few Vietnamese phrases.

• Hello = Xin chào (Sing-Chow

• Thank you = Cảm ơn (Com-Un)

• Good bye = Tạm biệt (Tam-Be-Et)

• See you later = Hẹn gặp lại (Hen-Gap-Lie)

Local Customs

• Take shoes off when visiting homes and most temples. 

• Dress modestly when visiting temples. No hats, shorts or sleeveless shirts are allowed. 

• Hand things to people with two hands, especially cash, credit cards or the bill.

• Avoid pointing at anything or anyone using an index finger. Use your full hand instead. 

• Showing the bottom of your feet or shoe to someone is considered extremely rude or offensive, especially at temples. 

When to Visit

There really is no “low” season in Vietnam. It’s a popular destination at all times of year. We visited in mid February, after the “high” season which runs from November to January. The weather was chilly, cloudy and rainy. According to several locals, this was atypical for this time of year. Thankfully it was not a deterrent to enjoying our time in this beautiful city. 

Elsewhere in Vietnam 

From Hanoi's historic Old Quarter and street food culture to the karst landscapes of Ninh Binh, lantern-lit Hoi An and vibrant Saigon, continue exploring Vietnam through these travel guides: 

Ninh Binh Travel Guide: Trang An, Karst Landscapes & Ancient Temples.  Discover dramatic limestone karsts, river journeys through Trang An, ancient temples and some of northern Vietnam's most scenic landscapes.

Hoi An Travel Guide: Ancient Town, Lanterns & Vietnamese Street Food.  Wander through the historic old town known for colorful lanterns, traditional architecture, riverside charm and exceptional Vietnamese cuisine.

Saigon Travel Guide: Markets, Nightlife & Vietnamese Culture.  Experience Vietnam's largest city through lively markets, rooftop bars, local food culture and the dynamic pace of modern Vietnamese life.

For Next Time…

Vietnam is a massive country with so much breathing nature. When we return, we have several sights in the north and middle of the country we hope to visit. 

Camping inside Hang Son Doong.  A massive cave system with underground campsites, rivers and hiking trails. It can be expensive and difficult to reach but is top of our list for our next trip to Vietnam. 

Bai Tu Long Bay.  An alternate to Ha Long Bay with many similar rock formations and islands. It’s said to be less busy and equally if not more beautiful. 

Mu Cang Chai Rice Terrace.  Sprawling rice terraces in a mountainous valley about 300km northwest of Hanoi. 

Ban Gioc Waterfalls.  A series of cascading waterfalls in the jungle on the boarder of Vietnam and China. 

Hoi An Travel Guide: Ancient Town, Lanterns & Vietnamese Street Food

Hoi An, Vietnam

Hoi An is a historic and bustling Vietnamese city famed for its culture, handmade goods and markets. Paper lanterns hang above streets between wooden and yellow painted houses. Vendors sell produce in baskets along the curbs. Locals wearing conical hats zip by on scooters. The smell of incense and street food wafts through the air. Ornate temples welcome visitors and worshippers. Makers work away at craft studios and measure customers at custom tailoring shops. 

The Ancient Town

The Ancient Town is the epicenter of history, culture and activity in Hoi An. Its old houses, ornate temples and bridges are discoverable when walking down the narrow streets and alleyways. Colorful lanterns and banners of the Vietnamese and Communist flags hang overhead. Shops sell locally produced silks, leather goods, linen outfits, custom clothing and knock off name brands. Restaurants and cafes spill out onto the sidewalks serving Vietnamese dishes and coffee. The town comes to life at night for the daily lantern festival, night markets and street food. 

Hoi An Ancient Town Ticket.  We were required to buy a ticket to enter the Ancient Town. It allowed us access to 5 different sights over three days. Occasionally, officials will ask to see and scan the ticket when entering town. They can be purchased at most cultural sights. 

Ancient Town Waterfront.  A promenade lined with historic buildings, bridges, shops, restaurants and cafes with curbside patios overlooking the river. Tour guides offer sightseeing tours on colorful boats. At night, it becomes the sight of the daily lantern festival.

Ancient Town Sights

Japanese Bridge.  A Japanese style wooden bridge and gate to the Ancient Town. It’s painted red with an ornate tiled roof depicting a traditional merchant boat. Inside is an arched walkway and a small temple. The bridge is featured on the 20,000 Dong banknote. 

Cam Nam Bridge.  A landmark bridge connecting the Ancient Town with An Hoi. It lights up at night and it a popular spot view the colorful lights, lanterns and boats during the lantern festival.

Hoi An Old Houses.  Dark wooden and yellow painted houses with mossy clay tiled roofs characteristic of the Ancient Town. Many houses date back hundreds of years, some still home to the original families and others are now museums. 

• Quan Thang Old House.  A historic merchant house from the 17th century. Its architectural style is recognized as one of the most beautiful homes in Hoi An with its single floor design, wooden facade and arched and clay tiled roof.

• Phung Hung Old House.  A two floor merchant house with Japanese and Chinese architectural influences, tall ironwood beams, a second floor balcony, a clay tiled roof and mother of pearl inlaid furniture. 

• Tran Family Chapel.  A historic home belonging to the same family for over 200 years. Inside is a chapel dedicated to their ancestors. It has an alter with photos and drawings of deceased family members surrounded by paper lanterns, flowers and citrus offerings. 

Temples and Pagodas.  The Ancient Town has several temples and pagodas where people worship, meditate and make offerings. 

• Phuoc Kien Hoi Quan.  A temple dedicated to a sea goddess with an ornate pagoda style entry gate, sculptures of scaled fish and a fountain with a dragon above koi pond. Inside, sculptures of Confucius sit behind gold and red altars as smoldering coils of spiraled incense hang from the ceiling. 

• Ong Pagoda.  An ancient pagoda and temple dating back over 1,000 years with traditional designs like red painted wooden columns, paper lanterns, an altar and a sculptural koi pond. It’s a quiet and peaceful place to visit. The smell of incense, the sound water circulating and echo of the gong quickly become therapeutic.

• The Ba Mu Temple Gate.  A 600 year old temple gate covered in reliefs and carvings of flowers, calligraphy and geometric designs. It has a circular portal at its center and doorways leading through it. It used to connect two temples that no longer exist today. 

Hoi An Traditional Art Performance House.  A historic theater offering 30 minute cultural performances and shows. We listened to musicians play flutes, drums and strings, saw dancers perform graceful acts in traditional outfits and were introduced to the game of Bai Choi.

The Lantern Festival

A nightly festival held along the waterfront with thousands of glowing and candlelit lanterns illuminating the Ancient Town. Delicate flames of paper lanterns flicker as they float along the water. Small row boats are illuminated by orbs of light. The water shimmers with the reflection of colorful lights dancing on it. Vendors offer boat rides and sell paper lanterns. We were rowed along the canal and released a paper lantern into the water, each making a wish and relating positive thoughts into the world. 

Participate in Bai Choi

Bai Choi is a Vietnamese folk game that combines various art forms including calligraphy, music and dance. 

The Rules. Bai Choi is a group game, where huts of players compete against each other. Each hut is given a paddle with 3 columns of calligraphy on it. As the game begins, a “chanter” pulls a bamboo card from a basket decorated in a singular column of calligraphy. The “chanter” then weaves the calligraphy into a song and holds it up for players to match. A hut is given a yellow flag each time they match a column. Once one hut matches all 3 columns, the game ends. 

Bai Choi Hoi An.  A Bai Choi theater with nightly games. We arrived early and sat in a bamboo hut waiting for the game to start. We purchased two paddles from the “chanter” as more players arrived. A band began performing as the charter pulled the first card. As the game went on, we matched two of the three columns before another hut won. It was an incredibly fun and lively game! 

An Hoi Island

An Hoi is an island neighborhood directly across the river from the Ancient Town. Many streets are draped with colorful lanterns and banners of the Vietnamese and Communist flags. It’s a popular place to stay due to its proximity to the Ancient Town with a large number guest houses and hotels. The waterfront becomes a hub for nightlife with animated bars, street food vendors, a night market and the lantern festival. 

Shop the Markets

Nguyen Hoang Street & Night Market.  A street dissecting the center of An Hoi with lantern shops, a vibrant night market and street food vendors. As the lantern festival starts, merchants set up carts stocked with clothes, jewelry, accessories and souvenirs in the center of the street. It’s the best street to place to try all manner of Vietnamese street food, especially near the waterfront. We tried several dishes two nights in a row.  

Cho Tan An Market.  Also called the Tiger Market, Cho Tan An is a traditional Vietnamese farmers market with tables of vendors set up under a canopy of tin roofs and tarp covered tents. Cash in hand, we visited buying groceries for the week. Baskets are filled with vegetables, fruits and herbs including dragon fruit, bok choy, lychee, rose apples, durian, napa cabbage, rambutan and basil. Living and freshly caught seafood like crabs, shrimp, fish, eel and clams are displayed on tables. Butchers slice meats, pluck ducks and shave pig skin. Elsewhere, merchants sell quail eggs, buckets of tofu, piles of rice noodles, dried mushrooms, rice paper, fish sauces, chili oils and fresh cut flowers.  

Hoi An Market.  A large market in the ancient city held underneath a series of sheds with vendors selling produce, meats, seafood and dry goods. It’s similar to the Tiger Market with the addition of merchants selling souvenirs and Vietnamese dishes. The market spills out into the surrounding streets and along the waterfront. 

Hoi An Fabric Market.  A large textile market lined with bolts of fabrics, booths with tailors and custom clothing makers. It’s popular to have formal wear like suits and dresses made here. Vendors can produce anything using inspiration photos and have look books to choose from. They can be overly pushy when walking through the market so only come here if you’re serious about having something made. 

The Spice Route by Ms Vy.  A market selling herbal rice wines, candied ginger, almond cookies, aromatic soaps, medicinal teas and spices. The market leads unto a small courtyard with a cafe and up to a rooftop with views of the riverfront. It’s located inside a historic home and former maternity hospital. 

Coconut Basket Boats

One of the most popular activities in Hoi An is the experiencing coconut basket boats and getting spun around a rapid speeds. The round boats are traditionally woven baskets used by locals for stability while fishing the coastal waters. Paired with an energetic guide, he paddled us through the palm covered channels of the coconut island. We saw locals harvesting palm leaves for thatched roofs, watched a net fishing demonstration, paddled the boat ourselves and of course got spot around! We booked ahead of time, including roundtrip transportation from our homestay with Green Coconut Village Cooking Tour.

My Son Sanctuary 

My Son Sanctuary is a mountainous temple complex dedicated to the Hindu god, Shiva. It dates back to the 4th century and underwent continual expansion for 1,000 years afterwards. The sanctuary is the largest complex of its kind in South East Asia. It’s comprised of multiple groupings built from stacked ochre colored bricks and carved sandstone blocks used to create temples, gates, columns, altars and shrines. The complex was heavily destroyed during the US bombing of Vietnam. Fortunately, many of the temples have been restored, others remain crumbling and some are still buried and overgrown. Pathways lead between multiple temple groupings, many of which can we walked through and entered. 

Group M.  A platform and temple with the crumbling brick tower gate dating back to the 13th century.

Groups B and C.  The main temple complex dating back over 1,000 years with a temple dedicated to Shiva and multiple halls for mediation and prayer. We walked around the ruins, viewing carvings of Shiva, past fallen columns, and inside the still standing dark meditation halls. 

Group A.  A temple complex with brick structures and sandstone altars completely destroyed by bombing. 

Group G.  A temple with ornate reliefs of the faces of Hindi deities carved into the sandstone and brick at its base.

Group E.  A grouping of temples including a well preserved prayer hall and stelae covered in ancient Sanskrit. Some ruins are under restoration and some still buried beneath grassy hill. The site is scared with bomb craters. 

Group K.  A linear platform with an ornate and leaning brick temple at its end. 

Getting Here.  We booked a roundup shuttle from Hoi A departing at 8am and retuning at 1pm. The ruins are about 1 hour from the city. We had nearly 3 hours to explore them on our own time. We booked with Hoi An Food Tour - Private Day Tours. 

Vietnamese Street Food

Vietnamese street food is a part of daily life across the country and ubiquitous with its cuisine. We ate street food daily as a quick snack and food crawled through the night markets. 

• Banh Trang Nuon (Vietnamese Pizza).  A sheet of rice paper covered in toppings like fried onion, spring onion, tofu, mayo and spicy sauce, placed over a coal grill, folded in half and crisped. 

• Bánh Xoái (Mango Cake).  A gelatinous rice cake covered in cornstarch and filled with roasted peanuts and sugar. 

• Banh Gio (Rice Dumpling).  A triangular shaped dumpling made from gelatinous rice wrapped and served in a banana leaf. It’s often stuffed with savory ingredients. 

• Chuoi Nep Nuong (Grilled Rice Banana).  A fist sized nugget of sticky rice wrapped around a banana filling and grilled over a coal fire. It’s sliced up and covered in a drizzle of sweetened condensed milk.

• Bao (Steamed Buns).  Steams rolls of bread often shaped like lotus leaves. They’re often deep fried and drizzled with sweetened condensed milk. 

• Bánh Rán (Sesame Balls).  Deep fried gelatinous rice balls filled with sweetened bean paste and coated in toasted sesame seeds.

• Khoai Tay Loc Xoay (Tornado Potatoes).  Hand-cut slices of skewered and twice fried potatoes resembling a vortex. They’re often covered in mayo and sweet chili sauce.

• Bach Tuoc Nuong (Grilled Octopus).  Skewered and barbecued octopus legs cooked over a coal grill.  

• Dau Bap (Okra).  Skewers of grilled and charred okra. 

• Mực Khô Nướng (Grilled Dried Squid).  A whole dried squid cooked over a charcoal grill. It has a jerky-like texture and is served with sweet chili sauce. 

• Tôm Hùm Nướng (Grilled Lobster).  A freshly caught whole lobster, sliced in half, barbecued over a charcoal grill and covered in pan fried garlic and shallots. 

• Bánh Trung Thu Tím (Sweet Potato Mooncakes).  Pucks made from a mixture of purple sweet potato, coconut and mung bean purée. 

• Banana Pancakes.  Envelope shaped crepes filled with sliced bananas and covered in a drizzle of sweetened condensed milk. 

• Thai Ice Cream.  Also known as rolled ice cream, it’s a popular dessert mixed with coconut, banana, pineapple or mango. 

• Street Cocktails.  A street style bar cart with local beers and a menu of classic cocktails. We ordered late night drinks and watched the lantern festival along the river. 

Vietnamese Cuisine 

• Rice Noodles.  Thin and sticky white noodles made from rice flour. They’re served in many dishes or on the side. 

• Pho.  A Vietnamese soup made with a base or rice noodles, vegetables, meat or tofu and a savory broth boiled with warm spices like star anise, cinnamon and ginger. 

• Banh Mi.  A beloved Vietnamese sandwich famed for its baguette style bread baked with a crunchy exterior and pillowy interior. It’s traditionally stuffed with cilantro, cucumber, carrots and meat or tofu.  

• Cao Lâu.  A noodle dish hyperlocal to Hoi An made from rice noodles soaked in lye water and served with meat, greens, herbs, bean sprouts and broth. It can be made vegetarian with tempe or tofu. 

• Bún Hué.  A traditional rice noodle dish made with beef, vegetables and greens in a savory and spicy broth.  It can be made vegetarian with tempe or tofu. 

• Spring Rolls.  A deep fried roll of crispy dough often stuffed with cooked vegetables, herbs and meats or tofu. 

• Summer Rolls.  A roll of gelatinous rice paper wrapped around a salad of raw cucumber, carrot, cilantro, cabbage and occasionally cooked shrimp. It’s served cold. 

• Rose Dumpling.  A rice dumpling filled with onions, mushrooms and meat bathed in a savory sauce and garnished with fried onions. We tried a plate of them at the Hoi An Market.

• Banana Blossom Salad.  A salad combined with sliced banana blossoms, carrots, green papaya, onions and cilantro tossed in a citric fish sauce. 

• Black Sesame Soup.  A creamy and rich soup made from black sesame seeds and sweetened with purple potatoes. For decades, a couple would prepare and serve it on the streets to locals. It’s now served in their family home by the son. We sat down with him and enjoyed a cup of the soup while chatting about Vietnamese culture and sipping on tea. 

• Chao (Rice Porridge).  A thick porridge made from overcooked rice with a jammy egg, cilantro leaves, chopped spring onion, fish sauce, chili oil and sesame oil. It’s popular for breakfast. 

• Mango Sticky Rice.  Sticky rice served with sliced mango and often eaten at breakfast. It originates in Thailand but is popular across Vietnam. 

• Tropical Fruits.  Some to try are dragon fruit, pomelo, rose apple, mango, rambutan, papaya and lychee. 

• Tiger Beer.  One of the national beers sold across Vietnam. It’s a lager with a light and slightly citric flavor. The bottle or can is recognizable by its logo of a tiger. 

Vietnamese Coffee 

The coffee culture in Vietnam is a popular part of daily life. Countless street cafes spill out onto the sidewalks with locals sipping on their preferred style. 

• Vietnamese Coffee.  The most popular preparation style, mixed with sweetened condensed milk and served hot or iced. 

• Egg Coffee.  A creamy coffee mixed with whipped egg yolk and sweetened condensed milk. 

• Salt Coffee.  A sweet and savory coffee mixed with salted cream and often dusted in cocoa powder. 

• Coconut Coffee. A thick and sweet coffee mixed with coconut cream. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Pháp Hoà Vegan.  A vegan restaurant with a rotating daily menu of traditional Vietnamese noodle dishes and soups. The owner and cook prepared us bowls of Cao Lâu Chay and Bún Hué Chay. 

Bahn Mi Phuong.  A very popular restaurant to taste the beloved Vietnamese sandwich, Bahn Mi. The restaurant is set up similar to a NYC deli with a list of options and a fast paced ordering counter. We both ordered the vegetarian option with tofu. 

Tropical Home Craft Beer & Cocktail Bar.  A hidden bar down a narrow alleyway with local beers and strong tiki drinks served in tiki mugs with a miniature Vietnamese hats on top. We ordered the Zombie and Tropical Love You. 

Reaching Out Teahouse.  A traditional Vietnamese tea house operated by deaf and mute individuals. Silence is observed and orders are placed by using hand gestures and blocks with written phrases. We ordered a Vietnamese tea tasting with herbal, green and oolong teas paired with cookies and snacks. 

Market Bar Hoi An.  A second floor bar with an outdoor patio above the Hoi An Fabric Market. They concoct house infused gins with local flavors like pho, mangosteen, rose, nectarine and plum. We sipped on gin and tonics while watching scooters weave through the chaotic intersection below. 

Little Faifo Restaurant and Bar.  An old wooden house converted into a restaurant with Vietnamese dishes. We dined on their romantic balcony under the glow of the red lanterns looking over the street below. Order the banana blossom salad topped with grilled shrimp and calamari. 

Hoi An Ancient Remedy. A dim sum restaurant with herbal cocktails and rice wines located inside of a historic house. We tried the Ginseng Herbal Wine and The King Herbal Wine. The first had a bitter herbal flavor and the second tasted of warm spices and herbs. Each 100ml bottle was poured over ice with a slice of lime.

Hai San Hoi An.  A waterfront cafe in the ancient town serving Vietnamese coffees like egg and salt coffee. 

Vietnamese Crafts 

Hoi An is regionally known for its artwork and crafts including ink wash painting, lantern making, silk weaving, wood carvings and pottery.  

Silk Making.  We visited Daisu Silk, a boutique and a processing studio where silk is milled. We watched as women hand spun silk fibers into string and weaved bolts of pure silk fabric on antique wooden looms. They sell one of a kind hand painted silk squares available in 3 sizes. Prices are significantly higher than anywhere else in the ancient city, starting at about $100 USD. Visiting the shop and studio is free.

Ink Wash Painting.  A painting technique used by artists to brush ink and water onto paper or silk to create art. We watched street artists paint scenes from around Hoi An including cityscapes, landscapes and the Japanese Bridge. 

Lantern Making.  Lanterns are a huge part of Vietnamese culture and many are made in Hoi An. We visited the Hang Dung Lantern Making Class, where tourists can paint their own lanterns. With little space to bring one home, we watched as others painted their own.

Pottery Making.  Behind the Reaching Out Teahouse is a shop with handmade tea sets and a studio where ceramics are decorated with gold rims, copper handles and silver designs. We watched as artisans hand sawed, hammered and filed metal to complete the ceramics. 

Wood Carving.  Wood carving is an ancient tradition used to decorate the wooden elements of homes and temples in Hoi An. Today, artists use hammers and chisels to sculpt faces out of bamboo roots as souvenirs. 

Linen & Leather Goods 

Throughout Hoi An, many shops sell high quality handmade linen and leather goods including bags, shoes and accessories, offering one of a kind customizations. 

Helen Leather. The place to buy boots in Hoi An! I customized every element of each pair, selecting the design, shape, stitching, sole, color and softness. After negotiating on price, they measured my feet and began working on my order, completing them in 24 hours. 

Leather Shop New Fashion.  A leather goods shop with shoes, boots, bags, wallets and other accessories. I bought an off the shelf laptop bag and had a custom cord organizer made to pair with it. 

Leather & Suede Shop.  A shop specializing in leather backpacks, duffels, purses, messenger bags and wallets. I bought a minimally designed flip top backpack. 

Instyle Boutique Clothing.  A linen wear shop with modern handmade pieces of clothing including button down shirts, vests, dresses, one piece jumpsuits, pants and shorts. I bought a hand painted linen shirt. 

Where to Stay

Arabica Coffee & Homestay.  A cafe with Vietnamese coffees and rental units above its storefront. We stayed here for the week, enjoying coffees by morning and relaxing in our room and the communal kitchen during the evening. It’s located just outside of the ancient town in a very walkable area. Reserve on Booking. 

Getting Around

Grab Taxis.  Widely available on the Grab App and cheap to get around town as well as between Hoi An and the Da Nang Airport.

On Foot.  The ancient town and surrounding neighborhoods are easily walkable. Be cautious when crossing roads, double checking for scooters.

By Scooter.  Though we didn’t rent them, scooters are the most popular and local way to get around the city. We saw some rentals for $5 USD per day. 

Sightseeing Rickshaw.  A three wheeled bicycle with a seat for one or two people in front of the driver. Many tourists hire one to tour them around the ancient town.

Location Specifics

Cash vs Card.  Most businesses and vendors are cash only. Clothing shops often accept card with a 1-3% fee. 

Vegetarian Food.  Vegetarian dishes are popular and easy to spot on menus. The word “Chay” after any dish means it’s vegetarian. 

Safety.  Vietnam is generally a safe country to visit. The ancient town of Hoi An is no exception. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Vietnamese are openly welcoming of LGBTQ+ travelers. When noticing our wedding rings, local women would ask how long we’ve been married and call us a happy couple.

Language.  Vietnamese and English are widely spoken, seen on street signs and restaurant menus across the country. That said, it’s still good to know a few Vietnamese phrases.

• Hello = Xin chào (Sing-Chow)

• Thank you = Cảm ơn (Com-Un)

• Good bye = Tạm biệt (Tam-Be-Et)

• See you later = Hẹn gặp lại (Hen-Gap-Lie)

Local Customs

• Take shoes off when visiting homes and temples. 

• Dress modestly when visiting temples. No hats, shorts or sleeveless shirts. 

• Hand things to people with two hands. 

• Avoid pointing at anything or anyone using an index finger. Use your full hand instead. 

• Crossing arms or pointing the soles of feet at anyone is considered rude. 

Elsewhere in Vietnam 

From Hoi An's lantern lit streets and riverside charm to Hanoi's cultural heritage, Ninh Binh's natural wonders and Saigon's bustling markets, continue your journey through Vietnam with these travel guides:  

Hanoi Travel Guide: Old Quarter, Street Food & Vietnamese Culture.  Explore Vietnam's capital through historic neighborhoods, bustling markets, street food culture and centuries of Vietnamese history.

Ninh Binh Travel Guide: Trang An, Karst Landscapes & Ancient Temples.  Discover dramatic limestone karsts, river journeys through Trang An, ancient temples and some of northern Vietnam's most scenic landscapes.

Saigon Travel Guide: Markets, Nightlife & Vietnamese Culture.  Experience Vietnam's largest city through lively markets, rooftop bars, local food culture and the dynamic pace of modern Vietnamese life.

For Next Time…

Cham Islands.  A coastal bio reserve and marine sactuary made up of several islands, coral reefs and local fishing villages. We had booked a tour but it was canceled due to bad weather. 

Ba Na Hills.  An amusement park in Da Nang famed for its bridge being held up by a pair of hands. We had planned to visited but were delayed by a day flying into Vietnam and missed our date. 

Da Nang.  The main city to fly into and reach Hoi An from. Next time, we’ll spend time here exploring its urban culture, beaches and nearby mountains like Marble Mountain and Monkey Mountain. 

Western Australia Road Trip: Perth to Ningaloo & The Coral Coast

The Coral Coast, Western Australia

The Coral Coast stretches for more than 1,000km along the Indian Ocean in Western Australia. The coast is famed for its remote towns, rugged landscapes, steep gorges, picturesque hikes, white sand beaches, turquoise waters and coral reefs. It’s a habitat for free roaming wildlife like kangaroos and emus as well as marine life like sea lions, sea turtles and manta rays.  

An Aussie Roadtrip 

The best way to experience The Coral Coast is by renting a car and roadtripping! We spent two weeks driving from Perth to Ningaloo with stops in Cervantes, Jurien Bay, Kalbarri, Francois Peron, Carnarvon, Geraldton and Yanchep. In total, we over covered 4,000 kilometers there and back. 

Cervantes (Day 1)

Cervantes is a small village known for its lobster fisheries and natural sights including stromatolites and desert rock formations. It’s located about 200km north of Perth and 25km south of Jurien Bay. 

Pinnacles Desert.  A bright yellow sand desert covered in vertical limestone rock formations known as The Pinnacles. Foot and drive trails weave through the unusual landscape past the jagged and eroded rock structures. The Desert View Walk loops 1.5km through the desert with close up views of the Pinnacles and lookouts of the landscape. Follow trail markers with an emu footprint stamped on a post. The Drive Trail leads 4.5km through the scenic desert to distant areas. It does not require a 4x4. 

Lake Thetis.  A lagoon home to some of the planet’s earliest lifeforms, stromatolites. A boardwalk leads around the perimeter of the lake with views of them. A boardwalk leads to the lake’s edges with views of the stromatolites while a nature trail continues along the bushland around its perimeter. Kangaroos can frequently be spotted lounging in the grasses and curiously looking around.  

The Lobster Shack.  A lobster fishery and restaurant specializing in all types of fresh caught seafood and lobster. It’s recommended as an obligatory stop by locals. Their menu features full or half lobsters, lobster rolls and lobster chowder. Dine in their ocean view patio watching for dolphins. 

Thirsty Point Lookout.  A white sand beach with views of the emerald hued Indian Ocean. A nature walk leads through the point’s grassy dunes. 

Jurien Bay (Day 2)

Jurien Bay is a coastal town home to colonies of endangered sea lions, crescent shaped white sand beaches and turquoise ocean waters. It’s located about 25km north of Cervantes and 200km south of Geraldton. 

Sandy Cape Beach.  A powdery white sand beach hugged by turquoise blue waters. The beach is nestled in a hook shaped cove surrounded by sand dunes and coastal vegetation. A trail leads to a lookout point with views of the coast and ocean. We spotted emus in the nearby bush. There is a popular campground lining the beach. Sites can be reserved using a QR code posted on signs. 

Sea Lion Pup Snorkeling.  The protected waters of the Jurien Bay Marine Park are home to colonies of endangered sea lions. We boated out to a shallow reef surrounding a small island. Playful sea lion pups frolicked onshore and dove into the water to greet us. A pup with the zoomies twirled past and later returned with a sand dollar balanced on its head as a present. A giant male swam by, offering us his best side eye. Elsewhere in the reef we spotted starfish, octopus and puffer fish. Book a morning tour with Turquoise Safaris Sea Lion Tours. 

Jurien Bay Jetty.  A small oceanfront pier in the center of Jurien Bay with sunset views, coastal walking paths and a beach cafe.

Places to Eat, Drink & Stay 

Jurien Bay Seafood.  A seafood restaurant and fish monger with a robust menu and daily caught specials. Come here for everything from barramundi fish & chips to squid burgers or Aussie oysters.

Bay Bakery Cafe.  A local spot for meat pies, vegetarian pasties, sweet baked goods and fresh breads. Come here for an early morning breakfast or afternoon snack. 

Jurien Bay Hotel.  A hotel with apartment style rooms and sea view balconies in the heart of town. It’s located less than 5 minutes from the beach and most restaurants. Reserve on Booking. 

Lesueur National Park (Day 3)

Lesueur National Park is a biodiverse reserve with trails and a scenic drive. It’s famed for its seasonal wildflower blooms between August and November. It’s accessibly from Jurien Bay. 

• Hike the Gairdner Trail, a 5.1km loop trail through the hilly landscape. White sand and orange gravel trail leads past native grasses, bushes, pines and types of funky shaped and colorful wildflowers. 

• The Mt. Lesueur Trail forks from the Gairdner Trail leading to the park’s highest point. It’s another great trail to spot seasonal wildflowers with identification placards. 

Kalbarri (Day 4)

Kalbarri is remote region of Western Australia famed for its coastal sandstone cliffs, picturesque beaches, bush hiking trails and dramatic river gorges. It’s located about 350km north of Jurien Bay and 375km south of Denham. 

Hutt Lagoon (Pink Lake).  A pink saltwater lagoon stretching across the Outback landscape. Its colors range from bubblegum pink to hot pink depending on the lighting conditions. Visit during the middle of the day when the sun is high. It located 45min south of Kalbarri. Visit the Pink Lake Lookout. 

Kalbarri Coastal Lookouts.  Kalbarri’s coast is connected by a series of sandstone cliffs, remote beaches, lookout points and hiking trails. 

• Eagle Gorge Lookout.  A coastal lookout of red sandstone cliffs juxtaposed against the deep blue ocean. A trail leads through the bush to the lookout point and continues to a tan sand beach flanked by layered cliffs.

• Pot Alley.  A coastal lookout with views of rugged sandstone formations, layered cliffs and the turbulent ocean. A trail leads through a rocky gully to a tan sand beach below. 

• Rainbow Valley Loop Hike.  A 1.5km trail looping through the ancient coastal landscape and layered cliffs. The trial passes fossilized pipe rocks created by organisms over 400 million years ago. It’s named after its colorful sandstone formations, varying in shades of tan, ochre, orange, red and maroon. 

• Mushroom Rock.  A flat rock balanced on a narrow stone base resembling a mushroom. It’s reachable midway on the Rainbow Loop Trail and from the Mushroom Rock Carpark. 

• Red Bluff Lookout.  A coastal lookout of the red sandstone coast, ferocious ocean waves and bushland. A trail continues further from the lookout to Red Bluff Beach. 

Kalbarri Beaches.  Kalbarri has a range of scenic beaches nestled along cliffsides, rivers and oceanfront. 

• Chinaman’s Beach.  A protected beach  located where the Murchison River meets the Indian Ocean. Come here for a cooling and refreshing swim on a hot day. 

• Kalbarri Beach.  A calm and swimmable beach in the turquoise hued estuary of the Murchison River. It’s possible to rent kayaks or small boats from here to explore further upstream. 

• Blue Holes Beach.  A lengthy white sand beach with views of the turbulent ocean. Sharp rocks and strong currents make it dangerous to swim but perfect for long seaside walks and sunsets. 

• Kalbarri Pink Beach.  A beautiful pink sand beach with a deep purplish hue. Visit at sunset when the golden light intensifies the color of the sand. Watch experienced surfers riding barrel waves at Jake’s Point.

• Melaleuca Trail.  A coastal walking trail leading through the bush covered dunes from Chinaman’s Beach to Kalbarri Pink Beach. 

Places to Eat, Drink & Stay

Kalbarri Palm Resort.  A large motel style resort in the center of Kalbarri. They offer a range of comfortable rooms and outdoor areas like a pool and cricket field. We woke up to kangaroos outside of our apartment. Reserve on Booking. 

Buddha Bites.  A seafood restaurant at the Kalbarri Palm Resort with South East Asian flavors like coconut, ginger and red pepper. Try the tamarind lime snapper and Australian seafood salad. 

Kalbarri National Park (Day 5)

Kalbarri National Park is a sprawling reserve with scenic hiking trails and panoramic lookouts of the Murchison River Gorge, a sandstone gorge carved by the Murchison River and ancient coastline. 

Nature’s Window.  A small sandstone arch on a cliffside ridge of the Murchison River Gorge. It’s reachable by following a 500 meter trail from the car park. The trek offers panoramic views of the orange layered sediment, green speckled bushes and winding river gorge. 

The Loop Trail.  An adventurous and scenic trail leading 8km through The Murchison River Gorge, beginning at and returning to Nature’s Window. It follows the cliffside ridge of the dramatic gorge. A steep descent continues down layered sandstone formations to the base of the canyon. A fractured ledge with minimal clearance leads along the edge of the riverside. The trail follows a horseshoe bend with views of the canyon walls. It continues through a fragrant eucalyptus grove before ascending back up to the ridge. The trial is the best we hiked in Western Australia!

Wildlife Spotting.  The gorge is home a variety of wildlife. Pairs of kangaroos nibbled on grass along the trail and hopped down the gorge’s rocky cliffs. Pelicans and black swans swim in the Murchison River. Foot prints and tracks from emu, small mammals and lizards meander through the sand. 

Advice for Visiting.  The Loop Trail can be dangerous and uncomfortable! Here is some advice to keep in mind.

• Avoid the Heat.  The trail head closes at 7am due to extreme heat. It’s best to begin hiking just after sunrise. The temperatures reached 36C (97F) by 9am when we completed the hike.

• Bring Water.  Hydrate before the hike and carry enough water to last the duration. We carried 1.5L each however it’s advised to carry 1L per hour. 

• Fly Nets.  You absolutely need a fly net during the hike. We were swarmed by and covered in hundreds of flys.

Kalbarri Skywalk.  A pair of cantilevered walkways suspended hundreds of meters above the Murchison River Gorge. They offer panoramic views of the gorge and Outback landscape. 

Z-Bend Lookout.  A lookout point of the Murchison River Gorge’s most prominent bend, aptly named after its sharp right angular bends. A bonus sight is a fossilized 400 million year old “footprint” trail from an eurypterid, one of the planet’s first land dwelling creatures.

Z Bend River Trail.  An adventurous 2.6km round trip trail leading to the Z Bend of the Murchison River. The semi-rigorous hike leads through steep crevices, down ladders and over large boulders to reach the river. Walk down the riverbed with beautiful views of the Z Bend. 

Ross Graham Lookout.  A scenic point with two lookout points of Murchison River Gorge. A short trail leads from the parking lot to the first viewpoint. A side trail continues slightly further into the gorge. 

Hawks Head Lookout.  A panoramic lookout of the Murchison River Gorge and landscape. 

Shark Bay (Day 6)

Shark Bay is large bay and marine park with picturesque beaches, scenic lookouts and small coastal towns. 

Shell Beach.  A magical beach covered in billions of tiny white shells lining the aquamarine shores of Shark Bay. Walk the beach, scoop up shells and toss them like sand in the wind.

Eagle Bluff Lookout.  A coastal lookout and boardwalk with views of the beaches, cliffs and shallow coastal waters. Come here to spot marine life including lemon sharks, nervous sharks, rays, sea turtles and aquatic birds.

Little Lagoon Creek.  A turquoise creek flowing from the bay into the Little Lagoon. A trail follows its banks to the mouth of the lagoon. Avoid swimming here due to poisonous stonefish. 

Little Lagoon.  A crystal clear lagoon with multihued blue waters. Bring a beach chair to relax on shore, swim in the shallow waters or barbecue at one of the grill pavilions.

Denham.  A cute coastal town in Shark Bay home to holiday rentals, beaches and turquoise lagoons. Emus can often be spotted strutting around the edge of town.   

Places to Eat, Drink & Stay

The Old Pearler Restaurant.  A seafood restaurant in a historic building made from pressed shell blocks. Its cozy interior offers romantic setting for dinner. Bring your own bottle of wine and try the seafood crowder or pan fried cod. 

Shark Bay Seafront Apartments.  A bayside hotel with spacious apartments and well equipped kitchens. Each holiday rental has its own outdoor patios adjoined by a communal area with thatched gazebos, sun lounges and a barbecue. Reserve on Booking.

Francois Peron National Park (Day 7)

Francois Peron National Park is a remote peninsula where the desert meets the sea. Its reddish orange cliffs border the turquoise blue ocean. The landscape blanketed in tufts of green bushes and clay plans with tiny dried shrubs. The park is home to wildlife like emus, kangaroos, monitor lizards, beared dragons and venomous snakes. The shores and shallows are teeming with marine life including sharks, sea turtles and rays. It’s located about 375km north of Kalbarri and 327km south of Carnarvon.

Cape Peron Point.  The northernmost point on the peninsula. Come here to hike the Wanamalu Walk Trail, a 3.5km coastal trail with views of the shrub covered desert, red rocky cliffs, white sand beaches and turquoise ocean.

Slip Jack Point.  A dramatic lookout point on the Cape Peron Peninsula. Reddish orange cliffs fade into white sand beaches hugging turquoise coastal waters. Large sting rays, cow tail rays, eagle rays, nervous sharks and schools of fish swim in the clear shallows below. Thousands of seagulls, cormorants and pelicans flock to the shoreline. 

Bottle Bay.  A remote beach home to an array of marine life. Drive down the shore to a short but steep trail with views of the crescent shaped white sand beach and its deep red cliffs. Watch for white tipped reef sharks, eagle rays, green sea turtles and logger head turtle from the cliffside view. 

Big Lagoon.  A blue lagoon colored in shades of aqua, turquoise and navy. A trail leads through a campground to the top of a dune with panoramic views. Orange sand flows from the dune into the warm and swimmable waters. 

Getting Around.  Francois Peron National Park is only accessible with a high clearance 4x4 vehicle. It requires experience to drive though to avoid getting bogged in the sandy roads. Unable to drive ourselves, we booked a full day tour from Denham with Shark Bay Coastal Tours. 

Carnarvon (Day 8)

Carnarvon is a large farm town located halfway between Shark Bay and Coral Bay. The region is responsible for producing a majority of Western Australia’s produce. It’s the perfect place to stop along the 6 hour drive to stock up on groceries and refuel. It’s located about 327km north of Denham in Francois Peron National Park and 237km south of Coral Bay.

Carnarvon Space and Technology Museum.  A communications and monitoring station with large satellites used for some of NASA’s most historic space programs. The station includes an extremely well curated museum with retired NASA equipment, historic artifacts, a planetarium, a replica lunar lander, interactive simulators, photo booths and vintage arcade games. 

Ningaloo Reef (Days 9 - 11)

Ningaloo Reef is one of the world’s largest fringing coral reef, stretching 300km along Cape Range from Coral Bay to Exmouth. Beneath the ocean’s prismatic blues is a world of subtropical corals, colorful fish, sea turtles, sharks, octopus and manta rays. 

Subtropical Corals.  Ningaloo Reef is a subtropical reef system. What it lacks in color, it makes up for in variety and complex shapes. The corals are mostly brown and tan with some purple and blue.

Coral Bleaching.  The reef has experienced stress due to a multi year marine heatwave. Most corals near shore are in a disastrous state. The corals further, along the edge of the reef are fairing better. 

Coral Bay (Day 9)

A small resort town on the southern end of Ningaloo Reef. It’s home to beautiful beaches, snorkeling points, tour operators, hostels and campgrounds. It’s located about 237km north of Carnarvon and 150km south of Exmouth.

Coral Bay Snorkeling Tour.  The coral mazes near the outer reef of Coral Bay are teeming with heathy corals and an abundance of marine life. We booked a full day snorkel tour with Coral Bay Eco Tours on Get Your Guide. The tour brought us to the South Maze, Blue Maze and Manta Cleaning Station. 

South Maze.  An impressive maze of shallow coral boomies, sandy patches and an abundance of marine life. It’s located several hundred meters off shore from Paradise Beach in Coral Bay. Green sea turtles and schools of colorful fish swim throughout the reef. Blue clams and octopus nestle themselves into the corals. White tipped reef sharks sleep within coral caves. Sting rays and moray eels slink along sandy patches. 

Blue Maze.  A maze of large coral boomies, underwater canyons and a variety of marine life. It’s located several hundred meters off shore from Paradise Beach in Coral Bay. Countless tiny fish swim in the shallow waters above the corals boomies. Sea turtles swim through the reef and rest on coral beds. Well camouflaged octopus lurk in with crevices of corals. Scorpion fish sit on a corals awaiting passing prey. 

Manta Cleaning Station.  Manta Ray’s are some of Ningaloo Reef’s most prominent animals. The graceful giants feed in the plankton rich waters and frequent “cleaning stations” on the reef where smaller fish groom them. We swam and snorkeled above one cleaning station, spotting 6 manta rays including a rare Melanistic Ray, recognizable by its jet black skin. At one point, 4 manta rays started rotating in a mesmerizing circular pattern. The cleaning station is located a few hundred meters off shore from Point Maud and Skeleton Beach in Coral Bay. 

Coastal Sights

Bill’s Bay.  A shallow bay with a protected white sand beach. It’s the most accessible beach in Coral Bay for swimming, sunbathing and snorkeling. Unfortunately most of the corals in the bay are dead.

Paradise Beach.  A narrow beach stretching south along Coral Bay’s shore. The best area for snorkeling is on the opposite side of the point from Bill’s Bay. Be careful of Portuguese Man O Wars on windy days. 

Shark Sanctuary.  A tidal lagoon on the ocean separated by a thin coral band. It’s home baby sharks and sting rays.

Coral Bay Walk Track.  A costal hiking path leading from Paradise Beach to the Coral Bay Jetty. It overlooks the ocean, reef and small beaches nestled between limestone cliffs.

Five Fingers Reef.  A remote beach named after 5 small limestone ridges extending into the water. It’s a popular spot for snorkeling and wind surfing. The beach is only reachable by 4x4 or on foot from the Coral Bay Jetty.

Places to Eat, Drink & Stay

Bill’s Bar.  The most popular pub in town with a large food and drink menu. It has a lively atmosphere bringing travelers and locals together each night. Try the peal and eat prawns with an Aussie craft beer.

Coral Resort Bakery.  A bakery with a selection of savory pies, sweet baked goods and breads. Try the “Cheesymite Roll” swirled with cheddar and  vegemite. 

Sweet Coral Bay.  An ice cream shop with classic and tropical fruit flavors. Try the “Whale Shark” made with white chocolate and spirulina (an edible blue-green algae). 

Ningaloo Backpackers Club.  A large hostel with a range of basic dorms, private rooms and shared restrooms. It offers a communal kitchen to cook meals, a bar to order drinks from and a pool to swim and lounge alongside. Reserved on Booking. 

Exmouth (Day 10)

Exmouth is a remote resort town on the northeast side of Cape Range with access to many of the national park’s beaches, bays and gorges. It’s popular for its accommodations, tour operators, restaurants and micro breweries. It’s located about 150km north of Coral Bay.

Tantabiddi Sanctuary Zone.  A coastal sanctuary in the north of Ningaloo Reef. It’s a habitat for sea turtles, playful dolphins and tropical fish. We snorkeled here on a half day tour with Cape Immersion Tours. The water glowed with intense shades of blue and turquoise. Groups of sea turtles mated near the surface while dolphins swam alongside the boat. We drift snorkeled in the current above reef formations. Bulbous purple, yellow and blue corals stood out amongst the expanse of dead corals. Giant grouper, camouflaged octopus, translucent squid and a white tipped reef shark were some of the underwater highlights. Book on Viator.

Whale Bone Brewing Co.  A brewery and distillery in Exmouth with a range of craft beers, artisan spirits and flavorful pizzas. Order a paddle of 7 beers to taste the latest brews!

Cape Range National Park (Day 11)

A rugged and remote national park with steep gorges, hiking trails, coastal views and Australian wildlife. 

Turquoise Bay.  A picturesque bay with calm turquoise waters and crescent shaped white sand beach. It’s the perfect place to sunbathe and swim. 

Turquoise Bay Drift Snorkel.  Adjacent to Turquoise Bay is lengthy beach with an expansive coral reef. It’s an ideal spot to drift snorkel and spot marine life. Walk down shore, swim out to the reef and let the current carry you. Exit a hundred meters before the sandy point to avoid outward currents. 

Good to Know.  The healthiest corals are a few hundred meters offshore. Avoid swimming out this far on windy days. 

Oyster Stacks.  A popular snorkeling beach with an easily accessible reef. Snorkel in the shallow coral gardens with all types of fish, blue clams, stingrays, sea urchins, sea cucumbers and starfish. Peer under the rocky structures to observe schools of large fish. It was one of our favorite places to snorkel outside of an official tour.

Turtle Rookery.  A costal area home to the largest sea turtle mating grounds in the Indian Ocean. Thousands of hawksbill, loggerhead and green sea turtles mate in the waters and hatch onshore between the months of October and April. Visit Mauritius Beach to observe them by day or night.  

Mauritius Beach.  A clothing optional white sand beach along the shores of the Turtle Rookery. Relax in the sun while spotting turtles mating off shore and viewing egg chambers and dug in the sand the night before. 

Mandu Mandu Gorge Walk.  A scenic gorge with a 3km loop trail. The trail follows a dried cobblestone riverbed flanked by snaking canyon walls and verdant bushes. It  climbs up the steep canyon wall with panoramic views of its ridge before looping back to the car park. 

Yardi Creek Gorge.  A winding creek with scenic nature walks and hiking trails along the edge of the gorge. Come here to spot rock wallabies hopping along the canyon and fruit bats hanging from the trees. 

Charles Knife Canyon Gorge.  A dramatic canyon in Cape Range National Park. Panoramic views of its rocky gorge and steep canyons are visible from scenic pull offs along Charles Knife Road. The 27km road is fully accessible by 2 wheel drive, ending at a turn around. 

Cathedral Termite Mounds.  The grassy landscape between Coral Bay and Exmouth is dotted with massive termite mounds, named after their cathedral-like structure. Roadside pull offs along Exmouth Road offer close up views. 

Geraldton (Day 12)

Geraldton is a great resting place when heading north or south along the Coral Coast. The city is home to restaurants, motels and Western Australia’s famed learning trees. It’s located about 700km south of Coral Bay and 415km north of Perth.

Geraldton Leaning Tree.  A windswept eucalyptus tree that grows horizontally along the ground. The leaning trees are a common sight in the area however this is the only one closely viewable from this roadside pull off.

Yanchep National Park (Day 13)

Yanchep National Park is a sprawling oasis north of Perth. It was the last stop on our road trip of the Coral Coast heading back south. Nature walks lead through lush bush-lands. Parrots squawk and fly between trees. Sleepy koalas hang onto eucalyptus branches in small sanctuary Kangaroos nibble on grasses in open fields. 

Perth (Day 14)

Perth is sprawling metropolis with laid back vibes. Sunny days are enjoyed at city parks, exploring the riverwalk and shopping in covered arcades. The bustling food and nightlife scene offers plenty of options for dining out and sipping on cocktails. The city is a great starting or end point for road trips along the western coast. 

Kings Park & Botanic Garden.  A sprawling city park with native trees, plants and flowering gardens. Cliffside lookouts offer views of the Swan River. Meandering walkways transport you deep into nature, away from the sounds of the city. Take in the wildflowers, fluttering butterflies and fragrant eucalyptus trees.

Heirisson Island.  A city park and kangaroo sanctuary on an island in the Swan River. Bush trails lead through grassy fields and wetlands where kangaroos graze. Visit during the late afternoon when the kangaroos are most active. 

Elizabeth Quay.  A contemporary riverfront park with funky boardwalks, skyline views and restaurants. Visit The Island for house brewed beers, pizzas and shareable bites. 

London Court.  An Old English style arcade in the Central Business District with to tailors, jewelers, barbers and cafes. 

Mount Lawley.  A popular neighborhood with cafes, restaurants, late night bars, boutiques and shops.

Places to Eat, Drink & Stay

Hula Bar.  A traditional and over the top tiki bar decorated with eclectic objects and dim colorful lights. They offer all the classics and several signature cocktails in vintage tiki mugs.

Lot Six Zero.  A breakfast cafe with strong coffees and delicious spiced egg dishes served on sourdough bread and croissants.

El Publico.  A taqueria on Beaufort Street in Mount Lawley serving authentically prepared tacos and mezcal.

Perth Airbnb.  A Bali style guesthouse with a tranquil outdoor patio, small swimming pool and styling living space. It’s a hidden gem perfect for a comfy stay. Reserve on Airbnb. 

Location Specifics

When to Visit.  Mid November is an ideal time to visit The Coral Coast and Western Australia. The days are mostly sunny making it the perfect time to maximize outdoor activities. It’s the cusp of summer so temperatures can range dramatically from cool to extremely hot. 

Extreme Heat.  The summer months invite extreme heat. Temperatures often exceed 40C (104F) and occasionally reach 50C (122F). Stay hydrated, cover your skin, wear loose flowy clothes and avoid peak heat hours. Be cautious when planning hikes.

Extreme UV.  Western Australia boasts many beautiful sunny days. It comes with the price of extreme levels of UV. Wear SPF 50+ sunblock, sunglasses and hats for protection. 

Summer Flies.  Swarms of pestering flies are a constant annoyance across Western Australia during the summer months. Dozens hitch a ride on your clothes, buzz around your head and crawl on your face. Wear a fly net in addition to liberally applying insect repellent whenever hiking.

WA Holiday Park Pass.  A park pass covering tickets / permits to nearly every park in Western Australia. We bought a 14 day pass at the Pinnacles Desert. It paid itself off after visiting 3 national parks.

Underwater Photography.  Buy a waterproof phone case to take underwater photos of the coral reefs and marine life. We used the Pictar Waterproof Smartphone Caseavailable on Amazon or Walmart. 

Driving in Western Australia 

Car Rental.  Perth is the best location to rent a car before beginning a roadtrip of Western Australia. We rented a 2WD from Sixt at the Perth Airport. 

2WD vs 4WD.  Most roads are well maintained enough to drive down using a 2 wheel drive vehicle. It’s best to plan your route ahead of time and read google reviews for current road conditions. A 4WD is recommended while road tripping Western Australia but not necessary. It gets you access to more remote places. 

Drive on the Left.  Like many former British territories, Australians drive on the left side of the road. It only takes a day to get used to if unfamiliar. 

Download Offline Maps.  Service is spotty and infrequent the further north you drive. Download offline maps, pin locations and plan your route a day ahead.  

Fuel.  Refuel before beginning the next stretch of your roadtrip. Keep your fuel gage at least half full. There are 100km stretches without gas stations. 

Be Cautious at Dusk & Dawn.  Kangaroos and wallabies are very active at dawn and dusk, especially along roadsides. Be extra cautious when driving during these hours. 

Elsewhere in Australia 

From Western Australia's remote coastlines and marine wildlife to Queensland's tropical landscapes, Byron Bay's surf culture and Uluru's desert heart, discover more of Australia through these travel guides: 

Tropical North Queensland Travel Guide: Cairns, Rainforests & Wildlife.  Explore Tropical North Queensland from Cairns, where ancient rainforests, cascading waterfalls and remarkable wildlife meet palm fringed beaches and vibrant coral reefs.

Great Barrier Reef Travel Guide: Cairns, Coral Reefs & Marine Life.  Dive into the Great Barrier Reef where vibrant coral gardens and extraordinary marine life thrive within one of Earth's most biodiverse underwater ecosystems.  

Brisbane Travel Guide: Neighborhoods, Riverwalks & Island Adventures.  Explore Brisbane where riverside neighborhoods, scenic riverwalks and nearby island adventures embody a laidback subtropical lifestyle shaped by nature.  

Byron Bay Travel Guide: Surfing, Beaches & Cape Byron.  Experience Byron Bay where surf culture, white sand beaches and scenic trails to Cape Byron embody Australia's quintessential beach town lifestyle.  

Uluru Travel Guide: Kata Tjuta, Kings Canyon & Sacred Landscapes.  Discover Uluru's sacred landscapes where ancient sandstone monoliths, desert hikes, canyon oases and Anangu traditions connect visitors to the Outback.

For Next Time…

The rugged and beautiful landscapes of The Coral Coast and Western Australia are calling for us to return. 

Revisit Perth.  One day in the city wasn’t enough time. We plan to explore for at least a full weekend and take day trips to Fremantle and Rottnest Island. 

Roadtrip South.  The southwest of Western Australia would be a roadtrip of its own. We plan to spend two weeks hopping from wine country in Margaret River to the white sand shores of Twilight Beach.

The Far North.  Visit Broome and the nearby natural sites like The Coconut Wells, Horizontal Falls and Mimbi Caves.

Uluru Travel Guide: Kata Tjuta, Kings Canyon & Sacred Landscapes

Uluru, Australia 

Uluru is an ancient desert rock formation and sacred place to the Anangu people. The orange and ochre sandstone monolith towers over the vast desert landscape. It dates back 500 million years and is the source of many Anangu creation stories. Trails lead around the base of Uluru past caves, gorges and watering holes. Lookout points offer views of it and the picturesque surroundings. 

Uluru Base Walk.  A scenic trail looping 10.6km around the entire base of Uluru. The walk offers close up views and distant vantage points of the sandstone monolith. It passes sacred sights, gorges and caves used for generational and gender specific ceremonial purposes. Aboriginal creation stories and lessons are told through geological features and pitted markings covering the sandstone facade. Vertical veins of sediment run through the rock. Depending on the lighting, the surface changes between orange, red, maroon and chocolatey brown hues. The surrounding desert landscape is covered patches of orange soil, tufts of yellow grasses, dried bushes and lush trees.

Pro Tip. Begin the walk at the Mala Car Parkand follow the trail clockwise. Start in the morning and plan to finish by 11am. The entire walk can be completed in 3 hours. 

Mala Walk.  A 1km trail along the base of Uluru home to a significant number of sacred caves and aboriginal stories. The trail starts at the Mala Car Park. Signs share information about the caves, their stories and collections to Aboriginal culture. There are ranger guided tours at 8am daily.

• Teaching Cave / Boys Cave.  A small cave adorned in ochre paintings used for teaching survival techniques and lessons to “bush boys” during their transition to manhood. The 4,000 year old cave paintings feature illustrations of emu footprints, boomerangs, kangaroo hopping, symbols for travel and watering holes.   

• Men’s Cave.  A cave used by Aboriginal men for sharing hunting and water gathering knowledge. The cave is part of an aboriginal story involving the attack of a shape shifting “devil dog.” During the attack, four men were turned to stone, leaving their impressions behind in the cave wall.

• Woman’s Cave.  A cave used by Aboriginal women to pass down oral stories between generations. The cave resembles the pouch of a kangaroo, a symbol of fertility. Photos are not allowed. 

• Kitchen Cave.  A large cave traditionally used by Aboriginal women to prepare food and discuss family matters during ceremonial gatherings. The cave offers a continuation of the aboriginal story from the Men’s Cave. The shape shifting “devil dog” left its giant paw print on the cave wall near an impression of a woman that was turned to stone. It’s one of the only caves that can be entered.

• Old Person’s Cave.  A cave used by Aboriginal elders to share stories, prepare food and keep warm in cooler months. The walls are adorned with millennia old paintings while the ceiling is visibly blackened from smoke. 

• Kantju Gorge.  A scared gorge at the end of the Mala Walk. Towering stone walls flank a lush oasis and watering hole. The orange rock face bares a blackened streak from past waterfalls created during large rain events. The gorge is used for gathering water during Aboriginal ceremonies and reflecting. 

Mutitjulu Waterhole.  A sacred waterhole at the end of a verdant gorge. A shallow pool rests beneath a smoothed crevice and occasional waterfall at the base of Uluru. Stories of ancestral beings are told through geological markings on the stone walls surrounding the entrance of the gorge. 

Uluru Waterfalls & Frogs.  Uluru is the sight of a rare phenomenon after significant rain events. Waterfalls appear and desert frogs emerge from multi year hibernation. Thin veils of water trickle down the towering stone facades. Streams rush between crevices into watering holes at the monolith’s base. Thousands of desert frogs awake to feed and mate. Their clicking and humming croaks echo throughout the gorges. The phenomenon only occurs a few times a year. If fortunate enough visit during a significant rain event, visit the Kantju Gorge and Mutitjulu Waterhole.

Cultural Center.  A dual snake shaped building home to multiple galleries and exhibits about Anangu culture and the landscapes of Uluru. The center shares ancestral stories told through the geological formations of Uluru. Exhibits provide context regarding Anangu connection to the land, animals and seasons. It explains the traditional roles of men and women at various stages of their life. A gallery displays Aboriginal artwork and dot paintings. Signs explain how to respect Uluru’s sacred sights and the Anangu people.

Uluru Lookout Points

Uluru Sunrise Point.  A sunrise viewpoint of Uluru with nature walks and viewing platforms. Visit about an hour after sunrise when Uluru is fully illuminated and all the large tour buses have left. 

Uluru Sunset Point.  A desert viewpoint of Uluru with sunset views. Visit during golden hour to watch the setting sun cast warm glows across on the monolith. 

Ewing Lookout.  A desert lookout point accessible from the Coach Campground between Yulara and Uluru. It has some of the best sunset and night sky views of Uluru, Kata Tjuta and the desert. 

Uluru Lookout.  A lookout just outside of the Yulara with views of Uluru and the desert landscape. It’s an easy 15 minute walk from the town square.

Yulara Desert Loop.  A patch of desert with a series of brief nature trials accessible on foot from most hotels in town. Walk to the Imalung Lookout, the tallest point at its center with distant views of Uluru.

Field of Light.  A desert art installation made from tens of thousands of colors changing lights. Trails lead through the installation resembling a field of glowing tulips. Book with Ayers Rock Resort.

Yulara

Yulara is a resort town outside of Uluru with outback lodges, desert camps and hotels. There is a town square at its center with Aboriginal galleries, boutiques, a grocery store, cafe and restaurant. A couple of brief nature walks lead to desert lookouts within views of Uluru. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

• Kulata Academy Cafe.  A cafe and coffee shop with a range of sandwiches, savory pastries and sweets. The cafe supports Aboriginal locals…

• Native Gelato.  A gelato stand in the center of the town square with Australian flavors. Try the dark chocolate wattle seed and cinnamon Davidson plum 

• Outback Takeaway.  A takeaway restaurant and cafe at the Outback Hotel. Come here for fried bites, pastries and beverages. 

• Outback BBQ & Bar.  A barbecue station at the Outback Hotel with a selection of bush meats (emu, camel, & kangaroo) that can be purchased and self grilled onsite. Live music is performed nightly. Alcoholic beverages are only available for purchase if staying at the hotel.

Kata Tjuṯa

A sandstone monolith towering above the desert landscape. It’s comprised of 36 individual domed mounds making up the overall structure. 

Walpa Gorge.  A sacred gorge between two of Kata Tjuta’s largest stone monoliths. A 2.6km trail leads from the car park into the gorge. Pitted crevices mark its towering stone walls. Large conglomerate boulders are scattered across the landscape. Patches of yellow grasses and leafy trees sprout between amongst the orange terrain. 

Kata Tjuta Dunes Viewpoint.  A roadside lookout of Kata Tjuta and its large domed formations, the bush covered landscape and distant views of Uluru resting on the horizon. 

Kata Tjuta Sunset Viewpoint.  A viewpoint of Kata Tjuta and four of its stone domes. The orange monoliths and desert are well illuminated by the late afternoon sun. 

Kings Canyon & Watarrka National Park

Kings Canyon is an ancient canyon in Watarrka National Park. It cuts through the Australian outback and its orange hued desert landscape. Hiking trails lead around the canyon, its towering sandstone walls and lush oases. 

Kings Canyon Rim Walk.  A 6km loop trail leading around Kings Canyon and its most prominent sights. The trail begins with a steep ascent along the canyon wall to its plateau. It follows the canyon rim, passes through narrow crevices and across the l craggily rock terrain. The rim trail offers dramatic views of the canyon and its geological features. Stop to admire fossilized sea ripples and the maze of weathered sandstone domes. An occasional grey kangaroo and rock wallaby hop through the bush in the early morning. 

Priscilla’s Crack.  A narrow crevice between two domed rock formations. It’s named after a scene from the Australian cult classic, Priscilla Queen of the Desert. 

Kings Creek.  A narrow creek flowing through the center of Kings Canyon. It supports a variety of life including ancient ferns, fruiting bushes, medicinal plants and fragrant trees. 

Pro Tip.  Rest your ear against the trunk of a river gum tree after a heavy rain to hear them “drinking” and absorbing water. The trees grow near water and are recognizable by their smooth white bark.

The Garden of Eden.  A verdant oasis at the rear base of the canyon. Kings Creek flows through it, filing river pools and creating small waterfalls. The sounds of flowing water and singing birds reverberate between the canyon walls. 

South Wall Return Walk.  A 4.8km return trail along the south wall of King’s Canyon Rim Walk. It follows the canyon wall and plateau past domed sandstone formations and scenic lookouts. It’s less rigorous than the full Canyon Rim Walk. Visitors can hike this section in reverse from the parking lot for an easier trek.

South Wall Lookout.  A cliffside viewpoint of the canyon’s sandstone walls and sheer rock cliffs. A temporary waterfall cascades down a crevice in the canyon after heavy rains. The lookout is viewable from both the Kings Canyon Rim Walk and South Wall Return Walk. 

Good to Know. Plan to begin any hike at sunrise. Do not attempt the hike after 9am on days with temperatures forecasted to reach 36C (97F) or higher. 

Places to Stay

Outback Lodge.  A backpacker’s hotel with blocks of gendered dorms, private rooms and shared restrooms. An outdoor pool and air conditioned lounge offer places to relax. The hotel has its own takeaway restaurant, bbq station and. They offer luggage storage, nightly live music and Aboriginal cultural experiences. Reserve on Booking. 

Coach Campground.  An Outback campground on the edge of Yulara. Each site has an enclave of walk in tents built upon elevated platforms. Inside are twin beds and electric generators. There are communal dining halls, bbq grills, fire pits and a central facility with restrooms and showers. The camp is utilized by tour operators on “Uluru Safaris.”

Kings Creek Station.  An Outback campground near Kings Canyon & Watarrka National Park. In addition to tented campsites, there is a trading post with a small restaurant, cafe and shop selling water, snacks and souvenirs. A swimming pool offers refreshing plunges on hot days. A trail leads to a hilltop lookout point with sunset views. We camped here during our “Uluru Safari” with Adventure Tours Australia. 

Location Specifics

Visitor Maps.  Uluru, Kata Tjuta and Kings Canyon trails and points of interest are all very well marked. Download visitor maps when planning your day in each park.

Uluru Park Pass.  A park pass is needed to visit Uluru and Kata Tjuta. It’s only available as a 3 day or annual pass. Purchase it Online the day before visiting unless already included in a tour. 

Respect for Aboriginal Culture.  Obey no photography / videography zones to respect sacred sights. Don’t climb on Uluru or walk past fenced areas. Do not collect stones or sand as souvenirs. 

Extreme Heat.  The summer months invite extreme heat. Temperatures often exceed 40C (104F) and occasionally reach 50C (122F). Stay hydrated, cover your skin, wear loose flowy clothes and avoid peak heat hours. Be cautious when planning hikes.

Extreme UV.  Australia boasts many sunny days. It comes with the price of extreme levels of UV. Wear SPF 50+ sunblock, sunglasses and hats for protection. 

Summer Flies.  Swarms of pestering flies are a constant annoyance in Uluru during the summer months. Dozens hitch a ride on your clothes, buzz around your head and crawl on your face. Wear a fly net in addition to liberally applying insect repellent.

Getting Around

ATT Kings Bus (Airport Shuttle).  A free shuttle operating between the Ayers Rock Airport and the hotels in Yulara. Shuttles wait outside of baggage claim after arrival and pick up from hotels about two hours before flights depart. 

Uluru Hop On Hop Off Bus.  A shuttle service offering a range of transfers to Uluru and Kata Tjuṯa from the resort town of Yulara. This is the best option to visit the sights on your own without booking a formal tour. Purchase tickets online in advance to secure a seat. Book here!

Adventure Tours.  A tour company operating multi day safaris of Outback sights like Uluru, Kata Tjuta and King’s Canyon. We booked a 3 night safari, staying in different camps and visiting sights across the landscape with a small group and local guide. We booked in advance through Viator.

Elsewhere in Australia 

From Uluru's sacred landscapes and the Australian Outback to tropical rainforests, coral reefs, coastal surf towns and remote road trip routes, explore more of Australia through these travel guides: 

Tropical North Queensland Travel Guide: Cairns, Rainforests & Wildlife.  Explore Tropical North Queensland from Cairns, where ancient rainforests, cascading waterfalls and remarkable wildlife meet palm fringed beaches and vibrant coral reefs.

Great Barrier Reef Travel Guide: Cairns, Coral Reefs & Marine Life.  Dive into the Great Barrier Reef where vibrant coral gardens and extraordinary marine life thrive within one of Earth's most biodiverse underwater ecosystems.  

Brisbane Travel Guide: Neighborhoods, Riverwalks & Island Adventures.  Explore Brisbane where riverside neighborhoods, scenic riverwalks and nearby island adventures embody a laidback subtropical lifestyle shaped by nature.  

Byron Bay Travel Guide: Surfing, Beaches & Cape Byron.  Experience Byron Bay where surf culture, white sand beaches and scenic trails to Cape Byron embody Australia's quintessential beach town lifestyle.  

Western Australia Road Trip: Perth to Ningaloo & The Coral Coast.  Road trip along Western Australia's Coral Coast where red desert landscapes, remote gorges, sandstone cliffs and white sand beaches create an unforgettable adventure. 

For Next Time…

Uluru, Kata Tjuta and Kings Canyon were incredible sights to visit and learn more about while in Australia’s Northern Territories. Next time we return, we plan to visit places elsewhere in the state. 

MacDonnell Range.  A mountain range with dramatic geological features, hiking trails and Outback campgrounds. 

Limmen National Park.  A remote wilderness park with sandstone rock formations, sprawling wetlands and wildlife. 

Kakadu National Park.  A rugged tropical landscape with rainforest, waterfalls and aboriginal cave paintings. 

Tropical North Queensland Travel Guide: Cairns, Rainforests & Wildlife

Tropical North Queensland

Tropical North Queensland is one of the most biodiverse places on the planet. It’s home to jungleous rainforests, dramatic waterfalls, vast coral reefs, palm lined beach towns, peaceful nature walks and ancient species. We spent a week in the coastal city of Cairns, branching out and exploring many of the region’s natural wonders. 

Cairns, Queensland 

Cairns is an adventurous hub and coastal town in Tropical North Queensland, renowned for its access to the Great Barrier Reef and Daintree Rainforest. The town is home to restaurants, craft breweries, breakfast cafes, weekend markets and tour operators. 

Central Business District (CBD).  The CBD is the historic center of Cairns. Its shaded sidewalks and tree lined boulevards are lined with breakfast cafes, restaurants, craft breweries, tour operators and popular weekend markets.

Rusty’s Market.  A weekend farmers market with colorful displays of tropical fruits, vegetables, pastries, breads and juices. Artisans sell handmade crafts like beachy jewelry, shell decor, aboriginal artwork and vintage Hawaiian shirts. Thai vendors sell takeaway street food and offer massages.

Cairns Night Market.  An evening market with souvenirs shops, a food court, massage spas and nail salons. 

Esplanade Lagoon.  An outdoor swimming pool with a small sandy beach, series of boardwalks, lush lawns and bbq pits. It’s a popular spot to safely swim and enjoy the tropical atmosphere of Cairns. 

Cairns Esplanade.  A waterfront promenade spanning the length of Cairns. A series of walkways and boardwalks follow the coast through lush city parks, the esplanade lagoon, marina and restaurant wharf complex. 

Cairns Art Gallery.  An art museum with galleries displaying contemporary, indigenous and aboriginal artwork. It features works with themes of identity, ancestry, the landscape and creation stories. It’s free to visit! 

The Great Barrier Reef

The Great Barrier Reef is the world’s largest coral reef system. It’s accessible from Cairns on day trips and overnight live aboard. We spent three days snorkeling and diving in the reef. Read our full guide here, The Great Barrier Reef.

Daintree Rainforest 

The Daintree Rainforest is the world’s oldest surviving rainforest. It dates back 180 million years to the time of dinosaurs and the supercontinent Gondwana. The rainforest is a refuge for ancient species, tropical flora and jungleous landscapes. 

Cape Tribulation Wilderness Cruises.  A boat cruise along the crocodile inhabited Copper Creek. Dense mangrove trees and mangled root structures line its banks. Verdant rainforest blankets the inland terrain. Murky river water gradually mixes with the turquoise seawater of the delta. The occasional alligator is seen sunning on land and lurking beneath the surface of the water. 

Cape Tribulation Beach.  A remote place referred to as the “most dangerous beach in the world.” Its waters are inhabited by jellyfish, crocodiles and sharks. A nature trail leads through the tropical rainforest to a lookout point above the beach’s southern point. The shoreline meanders to a mangrove forest at its northern tip. 

Madja Botanical Walk.  A nature walk through the wetlands of the tropical forest. The trail passes beneath a dense canopy of fan palms, giant ferns, climbing vines, spiky plants and several hundred year old trees. It continues through a muddy and flooded mangrove forest. The hum of insects and songs of birds resonate in the air. 

Mossman Gorge.  A jungleous river gorge with nature trails, lookout points and beaches. River pools offer places to swim in the clear and cool water. Granite boulders of all sizes speckle the riverbed as verdant trees tower over its banks. Insects and birds can be spotted resting on leaves and perched in the tree top canopy. 

Daintree Ice Cream Company.  An ice cream shop serving exotic and tropical flavors made with fruit grown on the property. Try a combination of wattleseed, black sapote, mango, coconut and soursop. 

Experience Daintree.  A tour operator in Port Douglas offering day trips to the Daintree Rainforest. Book on Viator. 

Kuranda Forest

A tropical jungle with densely forested mountains, verdant landscapes and massive waterfalls. The forest is accessible from Cairns by a historic train line and scenic cable car. 

Kuranda Scenic Railway.  A historic railway with scenic views of the Kuranda Forest, its gorges, ridges, rivers and waterfalls. Antique carriages shuttle passengers along a series of twists, tunnels and bridges between Cairns and the Kuranda Village. The journey lasts about 2 hours including a brief stop at Barron Falls Lookout. Reserve tickets in advance here.

Barron Falls.  A massive rainforest waterfall in the Barron Gorge. A trickling stream of water flows over the craggily black stone gorge and cliffside pools during the dry season. It’s raging waters are best seen during the wet season from December to February. 

Stoney Creek Falls.  A cascading waterfall flowing down the face of tall rocky cliff. It’s visible from the Scenic Railway.

Kuranda Sky Rail.  A series of cable cars suspended above the lush treetop canopy of the Kuranda Forest. They offer panoramic views of the mountainous rainforest, its rivers and gorges. Stations at Barron Falls and Red Peak provide opportunities to explore nature trails surrounded by towering trees and tropical plants. Reserve tickets in advance here.

Kuranda Village.  A mountain village in the middle of the Kuranda Forest. Its main street is lined with ice cream shops, souvenir stores, aboriginal art galleries and small zoos. The Scenic Railway and Sky Rail make stops here.

Pro Tip.‍ ‍Ride the Scenic Railway up and take the Sky Rail down. 

Bird World Kuranda.  An avian park with “free roaming” Australian and tropical birds like macaws, parquets, cockatoos, finches, ducks and a cassowary. Come here to feed the birds seeds, nuts, crackers and fruits by hand. 

The Cassowary.  An ancient and endangered bird native to Queensland’s tropical forests. It’s one the closest living relatives to the dinosaurs and the third largest avian species. They’re recognizable by their blue and red faces, head top casque, black feathered body and three toed feet with large talons. 

Kuranda Koala Gardens.  A small zoo with endemic species of Australian animals like the koala, kangaroo, wallaby, crocodile, wombat and quokka. Come here to observe the animals close in their open air enclosures. Walk through the kangaroo and wallaby pen to hand feed the hopping marsupials pellets of grain. 

Beach Towns 

Palm Cove.  A small beach town with palm covered beaches and boutique resorts. It’s located 30 minutes north of Cairns by car. 

• Palm Cove Beach.  A white sand beach lined with tropical palm groves and turquoise blue waters. Come here to lounge on shore or at one of the many beachside restaurants, cafes or bars. There is a netted and swimmable area south of the pier. 

• Nu Nu Restaurant.  A beachfront restaurant on Palm Cove Beach with an outdoor patio overlooking the swaying palm groves and turquoise sea. Come here for afternoon cocktails and Aussie bites. 

• Buchans Point.  A tan sand beach with a clothing option section towards its south end. It’s a freeing spot to enjoy the coastal breeze and palm shaded shores. The beach is located just north of Palm Cove. 

Port Douglas.  A coastal town located between the Great Barrier Reef and Daintree Rainforest. It’s a popular place with access and excursions to both natural wonders. 

• Macrossan Street.  The Main Street through Port Douglas. The jungelous boulevard is lined with vacation rentals, beachwear shops, clothing boutiques, aboriginal art gallery’s, sports pubs, cafes and restaurants. 

• Four Mile Beach.  A lengthy tan sand beach lining the shores of Port Douglas. It’s a relaxing place for beach walks, sunbathing and swimming. There is a netted and guarded section with nearby the north end. 

• Flagstaff Hill Walking Trail.  A coastal trail with hillside views of Four Mile Beach and the deep blue ocean. Hike the trail an hour before sunset to watch for tropical birds like parquets and cockatoos. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Prawn Stars.  A floating seafood restaurant on a series of trawler boats in the marina. Come here for a kilo of the “Bugs,” a type of crustacean also known as slipper lobsters. 

Dundees on the Waterfront.  An elevated restaurant along the waterfront wharf with Australian dishes and cuisine. Come here for the seafood tower with local mud crab, bay bugs, prawns, fried calamari, barramundi oysters and mussels. Reservations are recommended!

Flamingo Tiki Bar.  A modern tiki bar with a vast menu of inventive cocktails and classic tiki drinks. Come here for the happy hour tiki drink of the day between 4-6pm. 

Waffles on Cairns.  A brunch spot specializing in everything waffles. Come for their sweet and savory waffles or waffle breakfast sandwiches. 

Mi Piace Espresso Bar.  A breakfast place with fancified egg dishes, speciality pancakes and smooth coffees. 

Sugio Cafe.  An all day cafe and coffee shop with Japanese dishes and matcha lattes. 

Hemingway Brewery.  A waterfront brewery along The Esplanade with a series of locally brewed craft beers. Try the 7th Heaven Tropical Ale! 

Australian Cuisine 

Bay Bugs.  A type of crustacean somewhere between a prawn and lobster with a sweet seafood flavor. They’re often served cold cut in half.

Mud Crab.  Large crabs harvested from the mangrove forests and estuaries. They’re a local delicacy served at many seafood restaurants. 

Barramundi.  A white fish native to North Eastern Australia. It’s commonly fried and served as fish & chips. 

Meat Pies.  Savory pies made with buttery crusts and meaty fillings are popular across Australia. Vegan meat and veggie options are difficult to find. 

Toasties.  A buttered and griddled sandwich usually with a cheesy filling and protein. It’s often served at breakfast, lunch or on the go.

Aussie Coffee.  Coffee shops and cafes sell local coffee beverages like the Flat White and Long Black. The flat white is essentially a double shot latte while the long black is another name for an Americano. 

Vegemite.  A yeasty sandwich spread made from fermented barley. It has a savory and umami flavor to it. Try a thin spread on buttered toast or bread. 

Tim Tams.  Two sandwiched chocolate cookies covered in rich milk chocolate. 

Pavlova.  A traditional Australian dessert made from flamed merengue lathered with berry jams and fruits. 

Location Specifics

Pronunciation.  Cairns is pronounced as Cans with long emphasis on the “a.”

Cash vs Card.  Credit and debt card are the most common forms of payment. Cash is rarely used but accepted. 

Tipping.  Tipping is not generally expected in Australia. It’s common to round up on most bills or leave 5-10% at higher end restaurants. 

Beware of Crocs.  Crocodiles are prevalent  in the creeks and coastal waters of Cairns. Avoid entering or approaching any non-designated beaches or waterways. 

Stinger Season.  The time of year when poisonous jellyfish inhabit the coastal waters of tropical North Queensland. Stinger season starts in late October and lasts until May. Only swim in netted areas or with a wetsuit when in the reef.

Sun Protection.  The UV is often extreme on sunny days. It best to wear sun cream with a minimum of 50 SPF. Make sure it’s reef friendly if going in the water! 

When to Visit.  The end of Spring in mid October is one of the best times of year to visit tropical north Queensland. The temperature is warm, days are sunny and waters are typically calm. 

Getting Around

On Foot.  The streets and promenade of the CBD are easily walkable and best explored on foot.

By Uber.  Getting around town outside of the CBD is best by Uber. Avoid calling an uber during the morning and late afternoon rush hours.

By Car.  The rainforest and beach towns north of Cairns are best reachable by rental car. We rented a car from Sixt at the airport for a few days of our travels here. 

Where to Stay

Cairns Airbnb.  An apartment rental located about 15 minutes from the CBD in a residential area of Cairns. The private space has a fully functional kitchen, comfy bed and spacious outdoor patio.  Book on Airbnb.

Elsewhere in Australia 

From Tropical North Queensland's rainforests and wildlife to the Great Barrier Reef, Byron Bay's surf culture, Western Australia's remote coastline and Uluru's desert landscapes, discover more of Australia through these travel guides:

Great Barrier Reef Travel Guide: Cairns, Coral Reefs & Marine Life.  Dive into the Great Barrier Reef where vibrant coral gardens and extraordinary marine life thrive within one of Earth's most biodiverse underwater ecosystems.  

Brisbane Travel Guide: Neighborhoods, Riverwalks & Island Adventures.  Explore Brisbane where riverside neighborhoods, scenic riverwalks and nearby island adventures embody a laidback subtropical lifestyle shaped by nature.  

Byron Bay Travel Guide: Surfing, Beaches & Cape Byron.  Experience Byron Bay where surf culture, white sand beaches and scenic trails to Cape Byron embody Australia's quintessential beach town lifestyle.  

Western Australia Road Trip: Perth to Ningaloo & The Coral Coast.  Road trip along Western Australia's Coral Coast where red desert landscapes, remote gorges, sandstone cliffs and white sand beaches create an unforgettable adventure. 

Uluru Travel Guide: Kata Tjuta, Kings Canyon & Sacred Landscapes.  Discover Uluru's sacred landscapes where ancient sandstone monoliths, desert hikes, canyon oases and Anangu traditions connect visitors to the Outback.

For Next Time…

One week is barely enough time to experience Tropical North Queensland. Australia and this region of the country are high on our list to return to one day. These are just a few of the natural wonders we’ll come back to visit. 

Walshs Pyramid.  A freestanding mountain, naturally shaped like a pyramid. Hiking trails lead around the mountain’s base and to its verdant summit. 

Kahlpahlim Rock (Lambs Head) Lookout.  A rainforest mountain peak characterized by its large granite boulders. It’s accessible after a rigorous hike through the tropical terrain.

Whitsunday Islands National Park & Whitehaven Beach.  A chain of islands famed for their powdery white sand beaches, multicolored blue waters and coral reefs. 

Undara Volcanic National Park.  A national park home to Australia’s largest lava tube, volcanic craters and though not tropical, lush savannas of grasses and trees.

Chillagoe-Mungana Caves National Park.  A national park with large limestone formations, underground caves, hiking trails and aboriginal rock art. 

Torres Strait Islands.  An archipelago located between the northern tip of Queensland the southern shores of Papa New Guinea. It’s home to an array of ecological diversity and indigenous peoples. 

Great Barrier Reef Travel Guide: Cairns, Coral Reefs & Marine Life

The Great Barrier Reef

The Great Barrier Reef is the world’s largest coral reef system, stretching for hundreds of miles along the coast of Australia. It’s home to an incredible array of marine bio diversity including billions of corals, anemones, schools of tropical fish, sea turtles, sharks and rays. We snorkeled and dived in this underwater world in between relaxing on a live aboard and exploring on shore. 

Cairns, Queensland 

Cairns is an adventurous hub and coastal town in Tropical North Queensland, renowned for its access to the Great Barrier Reef. The town is home to restaurants, craft breweries, breakfast cafes, weekend markets and tour operators. 

The Great Eight

The Great Eight are the most iconic marine species that represent the Great Barrier Reef. The list includes: 

1. Clownfish 

2. Giant Clams

3. Sea Turtles

4. Sharks

5. Māori Warsse

6. Potato Cod

7. Manta Rays

8. Whales

During our three days on the reef, we spotted clownfish swimming in anemones, opened giant clams, feeding green sea turtles and white tipped reef sharks. The Māori warsse, potato cod and manta rays proved to be allusive however we spotted other colorful and large fish as well as sting rays.

Good to Know.  To spot whales, visit during their migration season between May and September. 

Tour Operators 

Cairns is home to many well reviewed tour operators offering single and multi-day trips to The Great Barrier Reef. Excursions often include snorkeling, scuba diving, introductory courses and all aquatic gear. We booked a two day one night live aboard with Diver’s Den on Viator and a separate day trip with Silver Swift on Get Your Guide.

Diver’s Den.  A scuba and snorkel operator with single and multi day trips to sites around The Great Barrier Reef. We joined their 2 day 1 night live aboard. It included 3 guided snorkel tours per day, a private cabin and all meals. The ship, the Ocean Quest has several public spaces including the dive deck, dining room, indoor lounge and outdoor sun deck, perfect for viewing the ocean by day and stars by night.

Silver Swift.  A scuba and snorkel operator with single day trips to sites around The Great Barrier Reef. It included two free style snorkel tours, a guided introductory scuba dive and a vegetarian friendly buffet lunch. 

Pro Tip.  Bring a sweater! The AC on the boats is very cold, especially after getting out of the water. 

Saxon Reef 

Saxon Reef features large underwater formations like coral boomies, cliffs and gardens. It’s home to wide variety of marine life including tropical fish, sea turtles, cuddle fish, rays and eels. We snorkeled at three separate sites around the reef.

Twin Peaks Dive Site.  A popular snorkel and dive site in Saxon Reef with massive coral structures and sandy ocean patches. Tropical fish flash their solid and prismatic patterned scales while green sea turtles drift by. It’s an easy location to spot clownfish, parrotfish, triggerfish, puffers, colorful wrasse, angelfish and unicorn fish. 

Coral Garden Dive Site.  A healthy coral garden home to an array of underwater life. The reef supports all manner of strange shaped corals resembling antlers, brains, mushrooms, ruffles, tubes and flat fans. Their bright green, iridescent blue, deep purple, yellow and pink colors stand out among shades of tan, grey and mauve. 

Sandra’s Dive Site.  A popular scuba and snorkeling point in Saxon Reef. It’s home to all types of coral formations and marine life. Large eels weave between corals. Stingrays rest on the sandy ocean floor. Green sea turtles surface for air. Large barracuda swim by menacingly. Cuddle fish lurk in the depths. Stingrays rest on the sandy ocean floor. Juvenile giant clams open and close skittishly.

Hastings Reef

Hastings Reef is a stunning bow shaped reef with sprawling coral gardens and coral walls. It’s home to diverse array of sea life including sharks, schools of fish, giant clams and starfish. 

Sandra’s Dive Site.  An expansive area of Hastings Reef with vibrant coral formations rising from the depths like an underwater mountain. White tipped reef sharks patrol the reef wall while scuba divers watch below for cephalopods. Schools of tropical fish swim in all directions and in-between the coral crevices. Giant clams rest on the seafloor with their blue shells wide open. The occasional starfish lays sprawled out across jagged corals. 

Flynn Reef

Flynn Reef is a spectacular example of the Great Barrier Reef’s biodiversity. The ever changing coral structures and array of marine life make it an idyllic site to snorkel, free dive and scuba dive. We visited three separate sites across the reef.

Coral Garden Dive Site.  A lively section of Flynn Reef with layered meadows of corals and pockets of sandy depressions. It’s home to an aquarium of tropical fish and sea creatures. Large schools of tiny fish and small groups of large fish swim between coral structures, hide in their crevices and bite at their protruding nodules. We drifted with the ocean currents and free dived for closer views of tiny starfish, giant clams and families of clownfish brushing through anemones.

Tracy’s Bommie Dive Site.  A section of Flynn Reef with narrow channels and underwater sea arches formed by coral structures. Its vibrant colored corals are home to sea turtles, conches, giant clams and multitudes of tropical fish like pufferfish, clownfish and rainbow parrotfish. 

Gordon’s Dive Site.  An idyllic dive site for beginners with massive coral formations, sea anemones and tropical fish. Our introductory dive brought us to shallow depths of 10-12 meters for about 30 minutes. The dive instructor led us in-between coral crevices and alongside coral walls. We were able to learn some scuba basics while navigating on our own under the close watch of the dive teacher.

Caring for the Reef

The Great Barrier Reef and all coral reefs for that matter are extremely fragile environments. There are a few simple things to keep in mind while visiting the reef.

• Wear reef safe sun block 

• Don’t touch or take anything 

• Avoid stepping on or kicking the corals 

• Book reputable tours with good reviews 

• Don’t chase or feed the marine life 

• Don’t litter or leave anything behind 

Dry vs Wet Season 

The Great Barrier Reef can be visited at any time of year however the dry season often offers the most favorable conditions. We chose to visit in mid October at the end of the dry season. 

The Dry Season.  A period lasting from May through October. It’s characterized by calm seas, clear water, little rain and cooler temperatures. Peak whale migration happens between May to September. 

The Wet Season.  A period lasting from November to April. It’s characterized by hot temperatures, frequent rainstorms and less visibility. It coincides with the jellyfish spawns of “stinger season.” Wear a wet suit! 

Underwater Photography 

Capturing photos underwater in The Great Barrier Reef is possible with most smart phones and a specialty case. We used the Pictar Waterproof Smartphone Case available on Amazon. 

Elsewhere in Australia 

From the coral reefs and marine life of the Great Barrier Reef to Queensland's rainforests, Australia's surf coast, remote road trips and the Outback, continue exploring Australia through these travel guides: 

Tropical North Queensland Travel Guide: Cairns, Rainforests & Wildlife.  Explore Tropical North Queensland from Cairns, where ancient rainforests, cascading waterfalls and remarkable wildlife meet palm fringed beaches and vibrant coral reefs.

Brisbane Travel Guide: Neighborhoods, Riverwalks & Island Adventures.  Explore Brisbane where riverside neighborhoods, scenic riverwalks and nearby island adventures embody a laidback subtropical lifestyle shaped by nature.  

Byron Bay Travel Guide: Surfing, Beaches & Cape Byron.  Experience Byron Bay where surf culture, white sand beaches and scenic trails to Cape Byron embody Australia's quintessential beach town lifestyle.  

Western Australia Road Trip: Perth to Ningaloo & The Coral Coast.  Road trip along Western Australia's Coral Coast where red desert landscapes, remote gorges, sandstone cliffs and white sand beaches create an unforgettable adventure. 

Uluru Travel Guide: Kata Tjuta, Kings Canyon & Sacred Landscapes.  Discover Uluru's sacred landscapes where ancient sandstone monoliths, desert hikes, canyon oases and Anangu traditions connect visitors to the Outback.

For Next Time…

The Great Barrier Reef is absolutely massive! As lovers of the underwater world, this won’t be our only time visiting it. Next time we return, we plan to base ourselves in the Whitsunday Islands. 

Whitehaven Beach.  A world famous white sand beach with swimmable turquoise waters and fringing coral reefs. 

Whitsunday Live Aboard.  Visit the island chain’s and their reefs on a multi night live aboard. 

Scenic Flight over Heart Reef.  An areal view of the reef system and one shaped like a heart. 

Eastern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: El Yunque, Bioluminescent Bays & Beaches

La Isla del Encanto  

Puerto Rico is known as La Isla del Encanto, which translates to The Island of Enchantment. Eastern Puerto Rico is home to golden sand beaches, bioluminescent bays, verdant rainforests and waterfalls.

El Yunque National Forest 

El Yunque is home the island’s only rainforest. The landscape is full of lush tropical vegetation, waterfalls with natural pools, hiking trails, lookout towers, tree snails and frogs. Here are a list of sights and trails in consecutive order past El Portal Visitor Center.  

La Coca Waterfall.  An 85ft tall waterfall streaming down the face of a large rock. It’s visible from the roadside waterfall shortly after entering El Yunque. 

Yokahú Tower.  An cylindrical observation tower perched on a clearing overlooking the rainforest. It’s located less than 1km past La Coca Waterfall.

Juan Diego Falls.  A series of small waterfalls with natural swimming pools below. The water is cold and refreshing! The falls are reachable via a short and often muddy trail from the roadside. 

Sierra Palm Picnic Area.  The only restaurant in El Yunque with Puerto Rican dishes and drinks. It’s a great lunch option and picnic spot while in the forest. 

Baño de Oro.  A historic swimming pool fed by rainwater and streams. It’s no longer swimmable, however pathways lead through the gardens surrounding it.

Mt Britton Trail.  A thinly paved trail leading through the rainforest to Torre Mt Britton. It takes about 45 minutes from the trailhead to reach the peak.

Torre Mt Britton.  An observation tower at El Yunque’s second highest peak with cool breezes, rolling clouds and sweeping views of the Caribbean and Atlantic coasts. 

Mt Britton Spur Trail.  A trail connecting the Mt Britton Trail to El Yunque Trail just before the trail to Torre Mt Britton. 

El Yunque Trail.  The rainforest’s longest trail leading to El Yunque’s highest peak. It can be picked up from the Mt Britton Spur Trail. It takes an additional 45 minutes to reach the peak. 

El Yunque Peak.  Often within the clouds, the peak is surrounded by a forest of foliage with stunted growth due to the heavy rain, wind and erosion. There is also an abandoned medical building and series of antenna. 

Tips for Visiting El Yunque:

• Bring water and snacks.

• Wear hiking shoes with good treads, rocks are slippery (speaking from personal experience).

• The temperature gets colder the higher in altitude you hike.

• Expect it to rain, bring a raincoat or umbrella and change of clothes.

• Rent a car. There are no Ubers or taxis allowed into the park. The drive is 1 hour from San Juan.

• Take a photo of the map sign outside the visitor center before hiking.

• Only park in designated parking zones. Rangers will ticket you.

• Arrive early, parking spots fill up quickly.

• Many trails not listed above are still under repair after damage from Hurricane Maria. 

• Reservations are no longer needed to enter the rainforest. 

Degree 18 Juice Bar.  Come here for a healthy pick-me-up after hiking in El Yunque. Located in the town of Palmer at the base of the mountain, they offer smoothies, vegan burgers and hammocks to relax in.

Rain Forest Zip Line Park. An adventure park at the base of El Yunque with 8 zip lines traversing through the lush rainforest canopy. One zip line spans 2,300 ft and is by far the most exhilarating part of the course. We visited here after a day hiking in El Yunque.

Luquillo

Nearby El Yunque is the town of Luquillo, known for the Luquillo Kiosks. Located along the highway, there are 60 street side stalls and restaurants selling Puerto Rican street food and classic Caribbean dishes.

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Bacalaítos.  Large and flat fritters made with a mixture of batter and cod. 

Whole Fried Red Snapper (Chillo Frito Entero).  Whole fried fish, especially red snapper, is a typical Puerto Rican dish. The fish is fried until crispy from head to tail. The meat is tender and easily pulls away from the bones while the fins and tails break off like “chips.” 

Caribbean Lobster.  Also known as a spiny lobster, it lacks the large claws of a Maine lobster but is filled with much more meat. It’s grilled and covered in a mixture of Sofrito, a sautéed medley of pepers, onion, garlic and spices. 

Mofongo.  Fried green plantains that are mashed in a pilón (a wooden mortar and pestle) with oil, garlic and salt. Many restaurants make Stuffed Mofongo with seafood, vegetables or meat. 

Carrucho.  The meat of the queen conch. It’s often served raw as ceviche or salad either alone or with an arepa.

Salmorejo.  A mixture of tomato and land crab strewed together. It can be gamey depending on the preparation. 

Empanadillas.  Similar to empanadas but slightly flakier with rolled edges. Common fillings are meats, seafood, cheese and pizza. 

Alcapurrias.  A fritter made from green plantain and cassava molded with a leaf and fried. They’re typically filled with annatto oil and a meat or crab. 

Kiosks to Visit

Kiosko #7 de Sonia & Peyin + Kiosco Mi Favorito #49 & #52 + El Castillo del Mar Kiosco #54.  Visit any of these kiosks for Puerto Rican street food like empanadillas, alcapurrias, bacalaítos and seafood salad in an arepa. 

La Parrilla Bar & Grill (Kiosko 2).  For locally caught seafood & Caribbean lobsters 

Terruño Comida Artesanal (Kiosko #20).  For classic dishes like mofongo, carrucho, coconut rice and plantains. 

Relle Na’o (Kiosko 40).  For vegan options and build your own mofongo 

Mojito Lab (Kiosko 42).  For extra large mojitos & cocktails.

Luquillo Beach

After the Kiosks, head to one of the beaches. Luquillo Beach (Playa Balneario) is a swimmable palm lined beach behind the kiosks with more food stalls selling empanadas and pina coladas served in pineapples. Parking costs $5. Playa Azul, is the other main beach in Luquillo for swimming, snorkeling, paddle boarding, kite surfing, and kayaking.

Las Croabas 

Las Croabas is the furthest northeastern part of Puerto Rico. It’s a popular place for marine activities, exploring nature, relaxing on the beaches and kayaking to the bioluminescent bay.

Laguna Grande (Bioluminescent Bay)

Kayaking through the mangrove forests at night to reach the bioluminescent bay is one of our favorite things to do in Puerto Rico! In the lagoon, you can run your hands through the water, let it run down your arms and splash around. Movement causes the dinoflagellates (bioluminescent plankton) in the water to glow a bright blue color. 

Book a Tour. You need to book a tour to visit Laguna Grande. There are a dozen companies offering nightly tours from Parque Las Croabas. Most offer two tour times, one at twilight and one hours after sunset. The biggest difference between the twilight tour and nighttime tour is how much of the mangrove forest you can see while kayaking to the lagoon. Tours cost around $50/person and last 1h 30min. We’ve booked through Island Kayaking Adventure and Kayaking Puerto Rico. 

Tips for Visiting Laguna Grande:

• Visit on a sunny day, the dinoflagellates are more active at night.

• Avoid going when the moon is full, the dinoflagellates are difficult to see. If you do, tour guides will bring tarps to cover the kayaks to block out the light.

• Don’t bring your phone for pictures, they can’t capture the bioluminescence.

Visit the Beaches 

Seven Seas Beach.  This is the main beach in Las Croabas. It’s great for swimming, snorkeling and renting kayaks or stand up paddles. The beach has a sandy shore with a rocky ledge several feet into the water. The beach is divided by a mobile home park. The east side is narrow but long and great for walking. The west side is larger with pavilions available for rent and a nature trail leading to Playa Escondida and Playa Colora.

Playa La Matita.  A semi secluded beach east of Seven Seas Beach. It’s a great destination to kayak to, look for conch shells or hike to La Zanja from.

Playa Escondida.  This long golden sand beach has calm and shallow waters perfect for lounging in. The shore is lined with sea grape trees offering shaded nooks to relax under. The beach is popular with all groups of people, especially the LGBTQ+ community. It’s one of those beautiful and welcoming places you’ll want to stay at all day!

Playa Colora.  A semi secluded beach great for sunbathing and enjoying nature. The waves are large and the undertow is strong making it un-safe for swimming. Though not an official nude beach, people come here to sunbathe naked near the rock formations to the right. 

Getting to Escondida & Colora.  Both beaches are accessible through a nature trail at the west end of Seven Seas Beach. It’s an easy walk that takes about 30 minutes. The trail forks after about 5 minutes, take a right and continue walking. This trails leads directly to Playa Escondida. A short path at the halfway point leads to Playa Colora. 

Pro Tip. Please take your trash with you and don’t pile it up at the trail heads.

La Zanja

La Zanja is a natural tench-like wave pool nestled within a cliffside and protected from ferocious waves by large jagged rocks. The pool is a secluded and unreal place to swim and listen to the ocean. 

Getting to La Zanja.  Walk down Seven Seas Beach, past Playa La Matita until it looks like you can go no further. From here there will be a trail leading into the tree-line. The trail forks at multiple points but all lead to a road. Take the road ending at a stoney beach. At the stoney beach, walk to the left until you see a trail leading up the hill and along the cliffside. This trail will lead you to La Zanja. From start to finish, it takes about 1 hour to reach. 

Safety

• Bring water shoes or wear shoes with good soles. 

• Do not attempt in flip flops or sandals. 

• Be very careful on the rocks and of waves 

• Be mindful of the current within La Zanja 

Places to Eat & Drink in Las Croabas

Las Vistas Cafe.  A hidden gem and easily the best brunch spot in the area. The restaurant is located on the roof of a house with surrounding views of Las Croabas. Everything is handmade and takes a little longer but is well worth the wait. Try the fresh fruit salad and juices, strong coffee and brunch dishes like the French toast with bananas and coconut or eggs Florentine on a arepa.  

El Pescador.  Located in Parque Las Croabas, this is one of our favorite places to dine at for seafood and Puerto Rican dishes. Come here for a pan fried red snapper, the stuffed mofongo, creole crab salad, jumbo shrimp and anything with conch. 

La Estacion.  A former gas station turned into an open air jungle themed restaurant offering grilled and smoked meats and seafood specials. 

Maunabo

A remote town on the far southeast corner of Puerto Rico with lengthy natural beaches along the Caribbean Sea. 

Playa Los Bohios.  A pristine yellow and black sand beach lined with palm trees and views of the mountains. The water can be dangerous for swimming due to currents. 

Faro de Punta Tuna.  A historic Spanish lighthouse overlooking Playa Los Bohios and Punta Tuna Beach.

Punta Tuna Beach.   A secluded palm lined yellow sand beach. The beach is not safe for swimming but makes for a beautiful setting for a relaxing afternoon. 

Ecuarican Bar Restaurant.  A restaurant with Ecuadorian and Puerto Rican fusion cuisine. It’s perched high on a cliff with an outdoor deck overlooking the coast. Come here for the mixed seafood ceviche and empanadas.

Location Specifics

Respect the Culture.  Puerto Ricans are very proud of their island, culture and heritage. Please show respect when discussing local issues and topics. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and learn about the culture and island.  

US Territory.  Puerto Rico is a US Territory meaning US Citizens can visit the island without a passport. 

Language.  Spanish is the primary language spoken in Puerto Rico. English is widely spoken as a second language. Knowing basic Spanish words and phrases is helpful and beneficial when visiting. 

Currency.  Puerto Rico uses the US Dollar. 

Metric vs Imperial.  Puerto Rico uses a combination of the Metric and Imperial systems. Speed limits are in marked in mph while distances are marked in kilometers. Gasoline is sold by the liter instead of by the gallon. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit and debit card is widely accepted across the island. Cash is preferred by most vendors at markets, kiosks and some businesses. 

Power Outages.  The electrical grid is fragile due to devastation from past natural disasters. While power outages rarely affect tourists, they do happen. It’s a difficult part of life for many Puerto Ricans. 

Tap Water.  Tap water is generally safe for consumption around the island. 

Tropical Weather.  Puerto Rico experiences tropical weather. Carry an umbrella incase of afternoon and evening rain storms. Tropical storms and hurricanes are possible from June through November with September through October being the most active. 

Swimming.  Mind the warning signs and red flags advising about dangerous ocean currents. Pay attention to where others are and are not swimming. 

Sun Protection.  The harsh UV is dangerous in Puerto Rico. Wear sun block when outside, even on cloudy days. 

Insect Repellent.  Mosquitos are prevalent across the island with mosquito borne illnesses on the rise. Wear insect repellant to minimize bites.  

Clothing.  Shorts and tank tops are generally acceptable to wear, keep the swimwear for the beach and plan to change into pants while dining out or visiting local spots. 

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

From colonial cities and offshore islands to mountain villages and surf towns, discover more of Puerto Rico beyond El Yunque and the eastern coast through these travel guides:

San Juan Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Beaches, Food & Local Culture.  Discover Puerto Rico's vibrant capital through historic neighborhoods, Caribbean beaches, local cuisine, nightlife and the rhythms of everyday island life.

Old San Juan Travel Guide: Historic Streets, Food & Colonial Charm.  Wander colorful cobblestone streets lined with colonial architecture, historic forts, local restaurants and centuries of Puerto Rican history.

Culebra & Vieques Travel Guide: Beaches & Island Adventures.  Escape to Puerto Rico's offshore islands for pristine beaches, snorkeling, wildlife refuges and some of the Caribbean's clearest waters.

Western Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Rincón, Beaches & Surfing.  Discover Puerto Rico's surf capital through laid-back beach towns, coastal scenery, marine life and world-class waves.

Southwestern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Cabo Rojo, La Parguera & Beyond.  Experience salt flats, mangrove channels, bioluminescent waters, coastal cliffs and some of Puerto Rico's most unique landscapes.

Central Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Mountains, Hiking & Taino Sites.  Journey through Puerto Rico's mountainous interior to discover cloud forests, hiking trails, coffee farms and Indigenous heritage.

Ponce Puerto Rico Travel Guide: History, Architecture & Local Culture.  Explore Puerto Rico's second city through grand architecture, local museums, historic plazas and a distinctly southern cultural identity.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around the eastern side of Puerto Rico including: 

Day Trip to The Icacos Islands.  The Icacos are a key of many small islands with diverse sea-life, coral reefs, sandy beaches, migrating birds and marines sports like snorkeling, swimming & diving. They’re only accessible by boat. There are water taxi services or a catamaran tours that leave from Parque Las Croabas. From what we’ve heard, the best time to visit is mid-week to avoid the large crowds. 

Las Paylas Waterfall.  Nearby El Yunque and on private property is a natural river rock slide. An older gentleman who owns the property charges $5 admission. There are no official hours so you have to chance it if visiting. We tried but were turned away. 

Byron Bay Travel Guide: Surfing, Beaches & Cape Byron

A Weekend in Byron Bay

Byron Bay is a laidback beach town and surfers paradise on Australia’s far eastern coast. Surfers line up to catch consistent waves and offer beginner lessons. Sun kissed beachgoers relax along white sand shores and meet up at nightly happy hours. Colorful streets are flanked by vibey cafes, diverse restaurants, beachy boutiques and surf shops. We spent a weekend here surfing, sunbathing and enjoying the atmosphere of the coastal town. 

Things to Do

Take Surf Lessons. There are numerous surf schools in Byron Bay. We booked a two day group lesson with Soul Surf School, shuttling between Byron Bay, Seven Mile Beach and Sharps Beach for morning surf classes. Surf boards and wet suits are included. 

Ride the Byron Solar Train.  A solar powered vintage train that travels between Byron Beach and North Beach. Rides take less than 10 minutes. It operates every hour between 10am - 5pm. Tickets can be purchased in person.

Hike The Cape Byron Walking Path.  A coastal walkway with scenic overlooks, forested trails, beaches and a lighthouse. Come here to watch for marine life including whales, sea turtles and dolphins. Signage shares knowledge about the landscape and its importance to the Arakwal people. The trail loops 3.7km from The Pass Parking Lot.

Beaches & Coastal Sights 

Byron Beach.  A squeaky white sand beach accessible from the center of town. It’s a popular spot to swim, sunbathe and surf. Surf schools line the town’s main street while surfers ride the gentle waves.

The Pass.  A popular surf spot for beginner and intermediate surfers. Small and steady waves cruise into Byron Beach after breaking near Fisherman’s Lookout. 

Fisherman’s Lookout.  A coastal lookout point on the rocks above The Pass. It’s a beautiful spot to admire the bay and watch surfers catching waves.

Wategos Beach.  A small beach nestled between two rocky points. It’s popular for sunbathing, body surfing and dolphin spotting. 

Australia’s Most Easterly Point.  A viewpoint of the Pacific Ocean marking Australia’s most easterly point. Come here to spot sea turtles in the waters below the cliffs and migrating whales in the far distance. 

Cape Byron Lighthouse.  A historic lighthouse perched on the cliffside peak of Australia’s most easterly point. It offers panoramic views of the forested woodlands, white sand beaches and Pacific Ocean. 

Sharps Beach.  A sandy beach with a rocky point and consistent surf conditions for beginner and intermediate surfers. We came here our second day of surf lessons.

Seven Mile Beach.  A long sandy beach with beginner surf breaks and sand bars. It’s a popular spot for instructors to teach lessons and locals to have play time with their pups. 

Lake Ainsworth.  A coastal freshwater lagoon tinted brown by tree tea oil. Come here for a refreshing snd therapeutic swim after surf lessons. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Stone & Wood Brewery Byron Bay.  A large brewery in North Beach with a range of craft beers and bites. Come here for a flight to sample several seasonal brews on tap. Try the Barrel Aged Stone Beer. 

Balcony Bar & Oyster Co.  A seafood restaurant in the center of Byron Bay. Come here for fresh and the loaded oysters. Try the version topped with creme fraiche, horseradish and caviar. 

Blue Cow Gelato.  An gelato and ice cream shop with large scoops and unique flavors like pavlova, butterfly pea flower and Turkish delight. 

The Hum.  A waterfront cafe across the Byron Beach with coffees, smoothies, açaí bowls and a range of breakfast dishes. Come here before or after a surf lesson. 

Roca.  A vibey restaurant with a style Spanish tapas menu and 2 for 1 happy hour cocktails from 5-7pm. 

Miss Margarita.  A Mexican restaurant with tacos, quesadillas and shareable starters like chips & salsa or guacamole. Come here for the daily happy hour margaritas and mojitos from 5-6pm.

Breads Pies Cakes.  A bakery selling everything in its name. Come here for the sweet and savory miniature pies like apple raspberry or spinach cheese. 

Where to Stay

Rainforest Retreat.  A cute cottage nestled in the tropical jungle outside of town. It’s surrounded by towering trees, verdant foliage and the echoing sounds of birds and insects. An outdoor patio offers the perfect place to enjoy the nature. Book on Airbnb. 

Getting Here & Around 

Greyhound Australia.  Book tickets on the Greyhound bus to reach Byron Bay from Brisbane. The ride takes about 3 hours, passing through the Gold Coast on the way south. Book tickets online here. 

On Foot.  The city center and surrounding area is small and easily walkable. For further distances, take an Uber. 

Location Specifics

Time Change.  Depending of the time of year, Byron Bay is on a different time zone than Brisbane due to the practice of daylight savings time in New South Wales. 

When to Visit.  Mid October is one of the best times of year to visit Byron Bay. The southern spring weather is idyllic with warm sunny days and cool cozy nights. 

Sunblock.  Wear SPF 50+.The UV is significantly higher due to its location in the southern hemisphere and depleted ozone layer. 

Tipping.  Tipping is not generally expected due to fare and regulated wages. Best practice is to round up on bills or leave a small tip for exception service. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit card is widely accepted everywhere. Cash is rarely needed. 

Elsewhere in Australia 

From Byron Bay's surf breaks and coastal walks to Brisbane's urban culture, the Great Barrier Reef's marine life and the vast landscapes of the Australian Outback, continue your journey through Australia with these travel guides: 

Tropical North Queensland Travel Guide: Cairns, Rainforests & Wildlife.  Explore Tropical North Queensland from Cairns, where ancient rainforests, cascading waterfalls and remarkable wildlife meet palm fringed beaches and vibrant coral reefs.

Great Barrier Reef Travel Guide: Cairns, Coral Reefs & Marine Life.  Dive into the Great Barrier Reef where vibrant coral gardens and extraordinary marine life thrive within one of Earth's most biodiverse underwater ecosystems.  

Brisbane Travel Guide: Neighborhoods, Riverwalks & Island Adventures.  Explore Brisbane where riverside neighborhoods, scenic riverwalks and nearby island adventures embody a laidback subtropical lifestyle shaped by nature.  

Western Australia Road Trip: Perth to Ningaloo & The Coral Coast.  Road trip along Western Australia's Coral Coast where red desert landscapes, remote gorges, sandstone cliffs and white sand beaches create an unforgettable adventure. 

Uluru Travel Guide: Kata Tjuta, Kings Canyon & Sacred Landscapes.  Discover Uluru's sacred landscapes where ancient sandstone monoliths, desert hikes, canyon oases and Anangu traditions connect visitors to the Outback.

For Next Time…

Time passes slowly yet quickly in Byron Bay.  Next time we return, we plan to surf more of the nearby beaches, visit other coastal towns and explore The Hinterlands. 

The Gold Coast.  A beachy metropolis north of Byron Bay with golden sand beaches, beginner surf breaks, towering skyscrapers, seafood restaurants and craft breweries. 

Tallow Beach.  A lengthy white sand beach on the coast opposite of Byron Bay. It’ has a popular surf break and national park with nature trails. We were able to overlook it from the Cape Byron Lighthouse.

Tallebudgera Creek Beach.  A blue and emerald hued creek with beaches along its sandy banks.

The Hinterland.  A tropical rainforest with lush valleys, waterfalls, volcanic calderas, hiking trails, wine vineyards, small towns and campgrounds.

Brisbane Travel Guide: Neighborhoods, Riverwalks & Island Adventures

Brisbane, Queensland

Brisbane is a sunny subtropical city with trendy neighborhoods, bountiful green spaces and access to Australia’s east coast. We spent a few days here exploring the city and its offshore islands on a trip through Queensland. 

Neighborhoods & Streets

Fortitude Valley.  A trendy neighborhood with brunch spots, designer boutiques and nightlife. It’s a lush and walkable area with plenty to do by day and night. 

St Ann & Brunswick Streets.  The nightlife streets in Fortitude valley with music venues, gay bars and restaurants. 

Westend.  A vibrant and grungy neighborhood with late night restaurants, cocktail bars, breweries and live music venues. It’s a popular spot with younger Australians and the queer community. 

Boundary Street.  The main street in Westend home to many of the neighborhood’s restaurants and bars. 

Howard Smiths Wharves.  A lively riverfront wharf under the Story Bridge with breweries, restaurants and walking paths. 

South Bank Parklands.  A riverfront park with a leisurely walkways, an artificial beach, ferris wheel, vibey restaurants and cafes. 

The Brisbane River 

The Brisbane River meanders through the city and its many neighborhoods. It’s lined with riverside parks, clifftop viewpoints and boardwalks. Dozens of unique bridges span between its banks, coining the city’s nickname, “Bridgebane.” Plan to spend time exploring the riverside on foot and by ferry! 

City Botanical Gardens.  A large city park nestled between the skyscrapers of the CBD and the Brisbane River. It’s home to lush walkways, riverfront lookouts, mangroves and gardens. Exotic and flowering trees transport visitors to a tropical rainforest in the middle of the city. 

New Farm Riverwalk.  A geometric boardwalk over the Brisbane River. It offers scene views of the city’s skyline, riverside home and Story Bridge.

Wilson Outlook Reserve.  A cliffside park along the Brisbane River with views of the Story Bridge and city skyline. It’s accessible from Howard Smiths Wharfs.  

Brisbane Riverwalk.  A riverside boardwalk located between the Neville Bonner Bridge and Goodwill Bridge. Both bridges are pedestrian only bridges and offer beautiful views of the city.

Kangaroo Point Lookout & Riverwalk.  A cliffside park along the Brisbane River with walking paths and views of the city’s skyline. 

Eat Street.  A vibrant weekend food market with dozens of kitchens serving street food and cuisine from all around the world. It’s built along a riverside wharf from colorful shipping containers, covered sheds and stages with live music. The market is open from Friday to Sunday from 4pm-9pm. Get here by taking the City Cat Ferry to the North Shore Hamilton Ferry Terminal. 

Places to Eat & Drink

The Burrow.  An artsy and casual restaurant with local beers, cocktails, live music and baskets of pub food like burgers, nachos and pizzas. 

The Boundary.  An elevated pub and sports betting bar. Come here for the wide selection of beers on tap and international dishes with an Aussie twist. Come for the fish and chips!

Covent Garden.  A bar with the world’s largest collection of Australian made gins. Come here for a gin tasting or round of craft cocktails.

Jungle Bar.  A dimly light and tropical feeling tiki bar with all the classic tiki drinks and rum cocktails like the mai tai, pina colada, painkiller and navy’s grog. 

Barbossa Bar & Bottle.  A rum bar and restaurant in East Banks with a wide range of cocktails, rums and island inspired tapas dishes. Try the Zombie & the Ship is Wrecked. 

King Arthur Cafe.  A brunch spot in Fortitude Valley with large fresh baked cookies and classic dishes like eggs benedict, avocado toast, açaí bowls and waffles. 

Epilo.  A “plant cafe” decorated with pots of verdant botanicals and terrariums. Come here for the  artisan coffees and fresh baked pastries.

Felon’s Brewery.  A riverfront brewery located at the base of the Story Bridge. Come here for pints of local beers, boozy cocktails and pub style food. 

North Stradbroke Island 

A protected island home to Australian wildlife like kangaroo, wallaby and koala. Its seaside cliffs and lengthy white sand beaches offer opportunities to spot marine creatures like manta rays, sea turtles, humpback whale, dolphins and sharks. 

North Gorge Walk.  A cliffside nature walk through forested paths with scenic views of the coast. Come here to spot all types of marine and wildlife. Kangaroos and wallaby can be spotted grazing on grass and resting in the shade. Manta rays gracefully glide underwater, sea turtles surface for breaths of air, pods of dolphins porpoise in the waves and sharks hunt for prey. 

Humpback Whale Migration.  Humpback whales migrate along the eastern coast of Queensland between June and November. Pods of whales spray geysers of water and continually breach the surface with a massive splash. The best views of them can be seen from the cliffside lookouts along the North Gorge Walk.

Pro Tip.‍ ‍Bring binoculars to watch wildlife and a camera to capture images better than the zoom on a phone. 

Cook’s Seat.  A hilly lawn overlooking Frenchman’s Beach. Come here for a picnic lunch or order a meal and local beer from one of the nearby cafes or restaurants. 

Main Beach.  A lengthy white sand beach hugged by turbulent aquamarine waters. It’s popular with experienced surfers. Visit the North Gorge Walk for its best views.

Cylinder Beach.  A white sand beach with a small protected swimming area, a surf school and parking lot with trunk cafes. Keep an eye out for wild kangaroos nibbling on grasses.

Ballow Street.  A forested street with tall eucalyptus trees home to wild koalas. Walk the street towards the beach looking up for the cute and sleepy animals hugging onto the branches.

Straddie Brewing Co.  A brewery with craft beers brewed on the island. They’re sold virtually everywhere. Try the dark lager and jumpinpin IPA. 

Stradbroke Island Tours.  A company offering day trips to North Stradbroke Island from Brisbane. Their small group tour includes transportation, ferry tickets and wildlife spotting guides. We booked with Viator.

Morton Island 

Morton Island is a massive sandbar island famed for its pristine beaches, sunken shipwrecks, desert like sand dunes and forested trails. 

Tangalooma Island Resort.  A beautiful beachfront resort on Morton Island with access to its scenic nature. Take a day trip here from Brisbane to enjoy some beach time and a range of marine activities. We booked the Adventure Day Pass which included round trip ferry tickets, snorkel gear and kayak rentals. 

Tangalooma Wrecks.  A series of sunken metal ships protruding from the bay. They a habitat for corals and all types of colorful and tropical fish. Rent kayaks from the resort to paddled around them and snorkel gear to observe underwater marine life. 

Tangalooma Beach.  A beautiful white sand beach stretching the length of the Tangalooma Island Resort. It’s a popular place to spot starfish during low tide. Come here to swim, snorkel and sunbathe. 

Moreton Island Desert.  A white sand desert surrounded by forest. It’s a popular spot for dune walking and sand boarding. Walk along the beach from the Tangalooma Island Resort to the Desert Walking Path. The trail leads 2km uphill and through the forest to an opening overlooking the desert. 

Where to Stay

East Brisbane Tiny House.  A cozy and well equipped backyard caravan (aka camper). The tiny space has a comfy bed, dining area and outdoor patio with a grill. Book on Airbnb.

Getting Around 

Train.  The light rail is the best way of getting between neighborhoods and the airport. Tap your credit card when entering and exiting the stations.

Brisbane Airport Train. The airport train is the cheapest and most direct way of getting between the central business district and the airport. Board at the Roma Street Station or Central Station. 

On Foot.  Brisbane is very pedestrian friendly. Explore the city’s neighborhoods, bridges and parkways on foot. 

Uber.  Ubers are available across Brisbane. They can be extremely expensive. Try to avoid booking during rush hour.

By Ferry.  The City Cat Ferry makes stops up and down the Brisbane River. It’s a scenic and convenient way of getting around and sightseeing. Tap your card to pay when getting on and off. Fares cost $0.50 AUD.

Location Specifics

Sunblock.  Wear SPF 50+.The UV is significantly higher in Queensland due to its location in the southern hemisphere and depleted ozone layer. 

Tipping.  Tipping is not generally expected due to fare and regulated wages. Best practice is to round up on bills or leave a small tip for exception service. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit card is widely accepted everywhere. Cash is rarely needed. 

Elsewhere in Australia 

From Brisbane's riverside neighborhoods and island escapes to Tropical North Queensland's rainforests, Byron Bay's beaches and Uluru's sacred landscapes, discover more of Australia through these travel guides:

Tropical North Queensland Travel Guide: Cairns, Rainforests & Wildlife.  Explore Tropical North Queensland from Cairns, where ancient rainforests, cascading waterfalls and remarkable wildlife meet palm fringed beaches and vibrant coral reefs.

Great Barrier Reef Travel Guide: Cairns, Coral Reefs & Marine Life.  Dive into the Great Barrier Reef where vibrant coral gardens and extraordinary marine life thrive within one of Earth's most biodiverse underwater ecosystems.  

Byron Bay Travel Guide: Surfing, Beaches & Cape Byron.  Experience Byron Bay where surf culture, white sand beaches and scenic trails to Cape Byron embody Australia's quintessential beach town lifestyle.  

Western Australia Road Trip: Perth to Ningaloo & The Coral Coast.  Road trip along Western Australia's Coral Coast where red desert landscapes, remote gorges, sandstone cliffs and white sand beaches create an unforgettable adventure. 

Uluru Travel Guide: Kata Tjuta, Kings Canyon & Sacred Landscapes.  Discover Uluru's sacred landscapes where ancient sandstone monoliths, desert hikes, canyon oases and Anangu traditions connect visitors to the Outback.

For Next Time…

Brisbane is a beautiful and livable city that we see ourselves returning to one day! There is so much more to experience and explore when we do. A short list of places we missed but plan to visit next time are: 

Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary.  A koala sanctuary with all types of native Australian animals including kangaroos, platypus, Tasmanian Devils, dingoes, wombats, emus and crocodiles.

Mt Coot-tha.  A mountain park on the outskirts of Brisbane with nature trails leading through a eucalyptus forest to waterfalls, panoramic view points and a botanical garden. 

Mount Gravatt.  A hilltop lookout just outside of the city with numerous hiking trails. Come here to the sunset views and to spot wild koalas.

The Gold Coast.  A beachy metropolis south of Brisbane with golden sand beaches, beginner surf breaks, towering skyscrapers, seafood restaurants and craft breweries. 

Central Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Mountains, Hiking & Taino Sites

A Lush & Rugged Landscape

The central mountainous region of Puerto Rico is a lush and rugged landscape with tree covered mountains, ancient cave systems, breathtaking canyons, mesmerizing waterfalls, scenic hiking trails, coffee haciendas and Taino archeological sites. We’ve ventured to the interior of the island on previous trips, getting to explore more of its natural landscapes, biodiversity and learn about its history. 

Natural Landmarks  

The interior of the island is home to many natural landmarks worth visiting. Rent a car and road-trip through the interior to swim below waterfalls, explore caves, traverse canyons and overlook the mountains from scenic lookouts. 

Canyon Blanco.  A canyon with large white rocks and cliffs polished smooth by the river. There is a trail leading along the canyon with Taino petroglyphs, a small beach and views of the surrounding mountainside. 

• Petroglyphs.  There are well defined Taino petroglyphs dating back hundreds of years carved into some boulders throughout the canyon. The most notable are figures of babies swaddled in blankets. They’re unmarked but easily visible if you’re looking. The petroglyphs are primarily located on large boulders downriver from the bridge before entering the canyon. 

• Getting Here. Take PR-140 and park at “Parking For El Sofa” just before a small bridge over the river. Walk down the west bank of the river and wade through it on foot before the rapids to reach the canyon trail. Alternatively, there is paid parking at Private Property a few minutes past the bridge for $10 with access to the canyon and trail. 

• Good to Know. The canyon is one of the most beautiful sights on the island but is difficult to reach. There is no cell service here. Download offline maps before traveling to the canyon. Don’t go on rainy days. Flash floods and rising waters are common. 

Charco Los Morones.  A remote waterfall and river canon along the Río Guaonica in Utuado. A trail leads from the roadside to a rocky path with views of the cascading waterfall, river pools and verdant mountainside. Indigenous Taíno petroglyphs are carved into the tops of several rocks along the riverbank and canyon wall. 

Getting Here.  Park anywhere along the roadside on Highway 123 (Antigua Puerto Rico 10). The steep trail begins just beyond the Zona Protegida sign. Use this Google Map Pin. 

Piedra con Petroglifo.  A large river rock covered in dozens of Taíno petroglyphs including faces, full human figures, swirling patterns and a symbol representative of the sun. 

Getting Here.  Wade into the Río Guaonica at the Cam Bañadero bridge. Walk about 150 feet downstream to the largest rock on the lefthand side. Use this Google Map Pin to locate it. 

Cueva Ventana.  A cave that leads underground through multiple chambers with bat colonies, stalactites and stalagmites before reaching a cliffside opening that overlooks the valley and river below. From here, Taino petroglyphs can be seen as cave birds and bats flutter into and out of the window like opening of the cave. It’s located 15 minutes from the city of Arecibo. Make reservations online ahead of time. 

Cueva La Clarito.  A cave with a large chamber, giant flow stone, stalactites, stalagmites and petroglyphs dating back thousands of years. It’s accessible along the tour to Cueva Ventana. 

Gozalandia Falls.  A waterfall over a smooth rock cliff with a natural swimming pool below it. Upstream are several river pools and another waterfall with a natural swimming pool. Parking costs $10. There is restaurant and bar at the entrance selling fresh coco frio (cold coconuts).

Doña Juana Waterfall.  A 100ft tall waterfall with a swimming pool at its base, It’s a popular roadside stop in the central mountains with a restaurant and bar. 

Lago dos Bocas. A mountain lake created by a dam popular with locals for fishing and kayaking. It’s located 20 minutes from the city of Arecibo. 

Cerro Las Tetas.  A mountain range known for its twin peaks that resemble a pair of breasts. It’s visible from various roadside overlooks and pull offs along Highway 1 in Salinas. 

Cerro de Punta.  The tallest point on the island measuring 4,390 feet above sea level. Park along the road, Ruta Panoramica (PR-143), at the trail head and hike about 20 minutes to reach the summit. On a clear day, there are views across the island. Be cautious of the wasp nests in the bushes at the lookout.

El Yunque National Forest.  A rainforest full of lush tropical vegetation, waterfalls with natural pools, hiking trails, lookout towers, tree snails and frogs. Read more about El Yunque in our Eastern Puerto Rico Guide. 

Adventure Tourism

The rugged interior of the island is a popular place for adventure tourism and contrasts with the golden beaches surrounding the island. Come here to overlook Puerto Rico from its tallest peak, speed down one of the world’s longest zip-lines and hike miles up a river canyon. 

Tanama River Eco-Adventure.  On a guided tour, we hiked up the Tanama River, a river located in a canyon with steep walls, overgrown cliffs, small waterfalls and stalactite covered caves. Hiking through the forest to reach the river. Our guide, pointed out flora invasive to the island, toxic vegetation and medicinal plants. Once reaching the river, we plunged in and began a miles long journey upstream, swimming against the current, wading through the water and crawling into dark caves. On our return, we floated downstream and let the current lazily carry us back the starting point. Along the way, we learned that the Tanama River is the original route the Taino people traveled to navigate between the coast and the mountains. We booked the experience through Viator.

Toro Verde Adventure Park.  An adventure park high in the mountains known for two of the world’s longest zip lines, suspension bridges and smaller zip lines. 

• The Monster. The zip line measures over 1.5 miles long and spans between two lush mountains above a 1,000 feet deep canyon. Unlike typical zip lines, on The Monster, you lay flat in a cocoon flying between the mountains reaching speeds over 90 miles per hour. 

• The Beast.  The park’s other super long zip line. We have yet to ride this one but have it on our list for next time. 

• Toro Bikes.  A zip line with bikes attached to the cable and used to peddle back and forth between towers. 

• Good to Know. The park is located about 2 hours from San Juan. Book tickets online in advance and prepare to wait in-line for over an hour for your chance at riding The Monster or The Beast. Phones and cameras are not permitted. Photos are available for sale.

The Land of The Tainos

The central mountainous region was home to the Taino people, a pre-Columbian culture that populated the Puerto Rico and other Caribbean islands hundreds of years ago. Today, several archeological sites including ceremonial grounds, detailed petroglyphs and museums with artifacts from the Tainos are on display throughout the region. 

Cemí Mountain.  A mountain with 3 distinct peaks that held spiritual and cultural important to the Taino people. Many artifacts have been found shaped in the likeness of the mountain.  

Caguana Ceremonial Indigenous Heritage Center.  A Taino archeological park at the base of the sacred Cemí Mountain with outdoor ball courts and stone monoliths carved with ornate petroglyphs of humanoid figures, condors and a fish. The sight is one of the most important Taino archeological sites in the Caribbean. 

Caguana Ceremonial Indigenous Heritage Museum. A museum with hundreds of Taino artifacts including: tools made from manatee bone and shells, remnants of clay pottery, stone axe heads, stone ceremonial belts and statues representing the Cemí Mountain. 

La Piedra Escrita.  A massive river boulder with Taino petroglyphs including faces, swirling formations and an iconic frog. Many locals come here to swim in the natural pool at the base of the boulder. 

El Cemí Monument Museum.  A museum built in the shape of a giant Cemí with exhibits that promote and celebrate the Taino culture and people. It houses Taino artifacts including wooden vomit spatulas, tools made from bone and shells, clay pottery, stone axe heads and statues representing the Cemí Mountain. There is a grave of a Tiano woman outside of the museum. 

Coffee Haciendas 

The mountainous region provides the perfect climate and conditions for coffee farming. There are dozens of coffee haciendas across the region growing beans for cafes across the island and offering tours of their farms. 

Hacienda San Pedro. A coffee hacienda with a cafe, shop, museum, processing factory and farm stand with local produce, honey and juices. 

Good to Know.  Many of the coffee haciendas are remote and have inconsistent hours making them difficult to visit. Call ahead to confirm hours and availability. 

Ice Cream in Lares

Lares is a small and historic mountain town famed for its ice cream shops serving a large variety of exotic flavors including: sweet corn, sweet potato, carrot, garlic, ginger, anise, cinnamon, almond,  coffee, bizcocho, coquito, piña colada, chichaíto, pineapple, mamey, soursop, guava, banana, avocado, papaya, dragonfruit, passionfruit and tamarind. Visit either Heladería El Grito or Heladería Lares. 

Getting Around

By Car.  The only way to get around the central mountainous region is by car, preferably one with all wheel drive. Many of the roads twist and turn around the mountainsides and steep valleys. 

Location Specifics

Respect the Culture.  Puerto Ricans are very proud of their island, culture and heritage. Please show respect when discussing local issues and topics. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and learn about the culture and island.  

US Territory.  Puerto Rico is a US Territory meaning US Citizens can visit the island without a passport. 

Language.  Spanish is the primary language spoken in Puerto Rico. English is widely spoken as a second language. Knowing basic Spanish words and phrases is helpful and beneficial when visiting. 

Currency.  Puerto Rico uses the US Dollar. 

Metric vs Imperial.  Puerto Rico uses a combination of the Metric and Imperial systems. Speed limits are in marked in mph while distances are marked in kilometers. Gasoline is sold by the liter instead of by the gallon. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit and debit card is widely accepted across the island. Cash is preferred by most vendors at markets, kiosks and some businesses. 

Power Outages.  The electrical grid is fragile due to devastation from past natural disasters. While power outages rarely affect tourists, they do happen. It’s a difficult part of life for many Puerto Ricans. 

Tap Water.  Tap water is generally safe for consumption around the island. 

Tropical Weather.  Puerto Rico experiences tropical weather. Carry an umbrella incase of afternoon and evening rain storms. Tropical storms and hurricanes are possible from June through November with September through October being the most active. 

Swimming.  Mind the warning signs and red flags advising about dangerous ocean currents. Pay attention to where others are and are not swimming. 

Sun Protection.  The harsh UV is dangerous in Puerto Rico. Wear sun block when outside, even on cloudy days. 

Insect Repellent.  Mosquitos are prevalent across the island with mosquito borne illnesses on the rise. Wear insect repellant to minimize bites.  

Clothing.  Shorts and tank tops are generally acceptable to wear, keep the swimwear for the beach and plan to change into pants while dining out or visiting local spots. 

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

From colonial streets and Caribbean beaches to offshore islands and bioluminescent bays, discover more of Puerto Rico beyond the mountains through these travel guides:

San Juan Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Beaches, Food & Local Culture.  Discover Puerto Rico's vibrant capital through historic neighborhoods, Caribbean beaches, local cuisine, nightlife and the rhythms of everyday island life.

Old San Juan Travel Guide: Historic Streets, Food & Colonial Charm.  Wander colorful cobblestone streets lined with colonial architecture, historic forts, local restaurants and centuries of Puerto Rican history.

Eastern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: El Yunque, Bioluminescent Bays & Beaches.  Explore Puerto Rico's lush eastern coast through rainforest trails, bioluminescent bays, secluded beaches and outdoor adventures.

Culebra & Vieques Travel Guide: Beaches & Island Adventures.  Escape to Puerto Rico's offshore islands for pristine beaches, snorkeling, wildlife refuges and some of the Caribbean's clearest waters.

Western Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Rincón, Beaches & Surfing.  Discover Puerto Rico's surf capital through laid-back beach towns, coastal scenery, marine life and world-class waves.

Southwestern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Cabo Rojo, La Parguera & Beyond.  Experience salt flats, mangrove channels, bioluminescent waters, coastal cliffs and some of Puerto Rico's most unique landscapes.

Ponce Puerto Rico Travel Guide: History, Architecture & Local Culture.  Explore Puerto Rico's second city through grand architecture, local museums, historic plazas and a distinctly southern cultural identity.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around the interior and mountainous regions of Puerto Rico including: 

• Explore Arecibo.  Spend a weekend exploring the beaches, sea arches and caves in Arecibo. 

• Rio Camuy Caves.  A vast cave system with an underwater river, large caverns, stalactites, stalagmites, rock formations and colonies of bats. It located about an hour from San Juan between the central mountains and the town of Arecibo. 

• Hike Cerro Mime.  A steep grassy mountain peak with views of the surrounding valleys. 

• Toro Negro State Forest.  A forested area in the central mountainous region with hiking trails, waterfalls, mountain peaks and camp grounds.

• River Caving Tour.  Join a kayaking tour through one of the mountainous rivers and caves. El Batay Adventures across from the Caguana Ceremonial Indigenous Heritage Center offers excursions. 

Western Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Rincón, Beaches & Surfing

Tropical Paradise 

The western coast of Puerto Rico a tropical paradise with surf towns, palm lined beaches and sunset views. It’s best known for the districts of Rincón and Aguadilla. The relaxing atmosphere is best enjoyed on a surf board at sea or under an umbrella on shore with a piña colada in hand. 

Rincón

Rincón is a tropical destination famed for its surfing, laid back vibes and large “expat” population. The district is centered around two main areas, Centro Puntas and Rincón Pueblo. Each has their own atmosphere, beaches and nightlife. 

Centro Puntas.  A sleepy stretch of Rincón dotted with colorful homes, verdant hillsides and beaches that wrap around the island far western point. Surf schools provide lessons while oceanfront restaurants provide offer views of surf breaks. The 

Rincón Pueblo.  The town center is a hub for activity in Rincón while capturing the laidback vibes of the island’s west coast. It’s home to weekly markets, cocktail bars, roadside cafes, island boutiques and Puerto Rican restaurants.

Surf & Snorkeling Beaches 

Rincón is the surf capital of Puerto Rico. It’s the point where the Caribbean Sea and Atlantic Ocean meet providing consistent waves year round. The winter months offer the best surf conditions with larger waves caused by strong Atlantic winds. Surfers of all levels can be seen riding waves from sunrise until sunset. There are multiple surf schools and board rentals near the beaches. 

Don Antonio’s Beach.  A beautiful beach with a coral reef located just off shore. The reef makes it a quiet and peaceful place to sunbathe or relax under the shade of the palm trees. It’s a popular beach for surfers to practice and catch waves. 

Playa Maria.  A very popular surfer’s beach for all levels of experience. Instructors offer lessons and rentals while shops sell surf gear. It’s great location to spot sea turtles and snorkel in the beautiful coral gardens on a calm day. The shallow but long shore offers a range of places to hideout under the palms and enjoy the tropical vibes.

Domes Beach.  Named after the giant white dome, a deactivated nuclear reactor, towering above the palm trees. Its placement offers a stark juxtaposition to the pristine nature surrounding it. The beach itself is popular with experienced surfers and for surf competitions. 

Sandy Beach. A golden sand stretch of shoreline perfect for sunbathing, bodysurfing, swimming and surfing. There are a couple boutique hotels overlooking the shore, nearby restaurants, cafes and bars. Multiple surf schools are based in the area offering lessons and board rentals. RD2Happiness rents boards for $20 for 2 hours.

Dogman Beach.  A very small beach with a reef on either side. It acts as a launching point for surfers to safely paddle out. It’s located just south of Playa Maria. 

Pro Tip. Surf earlier in the morning before the waves become too choppy. 

Steps Beach.  A snorkeling beach with healthy coral formations and many species of fish. We snorkeled over large formations of elkhorn coral and spotted parrot fish. During low tide, there are shallow tide pools where families relax with children. The beach is named for a set of concrete steps washed up onshore. It’s also a great spot to look for sea glass. 

Playa Dona Lala.  A sandy beach with a deep shoreline and calm aquamarine waters. It’s the perfect place to swim and relax under the Caribbean sun. Vendors rent umbrellas, beach chairs and jet skis. There is a small plaza with cafes & restaurants behind the beach parking lot. It’s only about a 10-15 minute walk from Plaza Pública de Rincón.

Rincón Surf School

A surf school near Sandy Beach with board rentals and a range of lessons. We booked a 3 day surf class with 3 hour morning lessons starting at 8am. After some onshore basics, the paddled out to begin surfing!

• Day 1 - Dogman Beach.  The first day focused in the basics of paddling, standing up and balancing while riding the waves. With the push of our instructor, we were able to catch and ride several waves! 

• Day 2 - Playa Maria.  The second day was very similar to the first but at a different beach. With practice, we were able to catch several more waves with less assistance. An onshore photographer even snapped a few photos! While waiting in the lineup, we spotted sea turtles swimming in the reef beneath our boards. It was a magical experience. 

• Day 3 - Playa Don Antonio.  My third and final surf lesson was the most rewarding. We were able to watch for, catch and ride about half of the waves without the help of our instructor. From never having surfed before to riding waves on my own felt so rewarding. 

A surf lesson in Rincón is worth every moment for anyone who loves the ocean! It’s a mix of high energy and relaxation while being surrounded by stunning nature. The only advice to anyone learning to surf is be ready to paddle a lot! It’s all worth it once you ride a wave! Book Lessons Here. 

Rincon Sights 

Punta Higüero Lighthouse. Located at the south end of Domes Beach is a Spanish style lighthouse and lookout point. It’s a nice place to watch surfers, spot for whales or enjoy a meal and drink at the cliffside restaurant, Ola Sunset Cafe.

Tres Palmas Reserve Path.  A nature and biking trail along the Caribbean coast and a gated cattle field north of Steps Beach.

Domes Trail.  A coastal nature trail north of Dome’s beach and around the nuclear reactor. It passes multiple smaller secluded beaches. 

Plaza Pública de Rincón.  This plaza is the heart of Rincón Pueblo. It hosts weekly events like the Rincon Art Walk and Farmer’s Market. 

Events & Markets 

Rincón Art Walk.  On Thursday nights, the plaza comes to life with artists and vendors selling handmade jewelry, sea glass, decorated drift wood, scenic paintings, local photographs, wooden cookware, oils, soaps, etc. At the same time, live musicians and performances entertain crowds in the center of the plaza. All the while, people sipping on ice cold medallas and tropical cocktails spill out of bars onto the surrounding streets. The art walk typically lasts from 5-10pm while the nightlife continues into the early morning. 

Rincón Farmers Market.  On Sunday mornings, the plaza transforms into a farmers market. Vendors set up under white tents selling locally grown produce, tropical flowers, potted herbs, baskets of eggs, empanadas, fresh squeezed orange juice, vegan meals and organic oils. The market is open from 8am until the early afternoon.

Surf Shops & Boutiques 

Centro Puntas features several surf shops, while Rincón Pueblo offers boutique specializing in handmade goods and home decor. A few we love visiting are:

Rincón Surf Market.  Located under Kahuna Burger Bar. Come here for clothes, beverages, jewelry, surf boards and sun block. The owner owns the restaurant above, hotel and surf school.

Stoked : Surf + Espresso.  A surf shop and cafe at Playa Maria. It’s a great place to come before or after surfing for coffee, juice, baked goods or surf equipment.

Mango Beach Surf Shop.  A shop selling souvenir t-shirt’s, hoodies, jeweley sunblock and aloe vera.  

The Uncharted Studio.  A tropical boutique specializing in beachwear, jewelry, artwork and hand made items. 

Places to Eat & Drink

There are many amazing cafes, restaurants and bars across Rincón, here are some of our favorites in Centro Puntas and Rincón Pueblo. 

Kahuna Burger Bar.  A local favorite near Sandy Beach. Come here for the mahi mahi and veggie burgers. Add a grilled pineapple for a tropical twist. Their bar is open late, offering rum punch for $5. 

Jakes Java House.  A road side coffee shop with smoothies and açaí bowls next to Sandy Beach. 

Jack’s Shack.  A roadside restaurant with breakfast tacos, egg sandwiches and iced coffee served from a food truck and trailer. 

Caddy’s Calypso.  A surf bar & restaurant at Playa Maria. Come here for their double rum cocktails, mahi mahi tacos, nachos & coconut shrimp. 

Tamboo.  A restaurant on Sandy Beach with Caribbean views, Puerto Rican seafood and tropical cocktails. Try the mahi ceviche, and watermelon tuna tartare with tostones. Order the hibiscus rum cocktail. 

La Rosa Inglesa.  A hotel restaurant perched on the hills overlooking Rincón. Come here for their brunch menu including flights of tropical mimosas, fresh fruit bowls, latin egg dishes and shrimp hollandaise Benedicts. 

The Beach House.  A restaurant, bar, hotel and surf shop with a line up of white chairs overlooking the forested coast behind Dome’s Beach. Come here to enjoy a drink, sunset, the view or all of the above.

Ola Sunset Cafe.  A cliffside restaurant overlooking Dome’s Beach and the Caribbean Sea. Come here to spot migrating whales and watch the sunset while eating empanadas and sipping on large tropical mojitos. 

La Sirena.  A nautical themed restaurant and tiki bar serving sushi, seafood, dim sum and tropical cocktails served in classic tiki mugs.

Harbor Restaurant.  A popular beachfront seafood restaurant. Order a classic rum cocktail, try the whole fried red snapper and a side of crab tostones. 

La Marketa.  A restaurant and bar in downtown Rincon and the former location of the city’s market. They keep the market alive with tables of craft vendors on Sunday morning. Come to play darts and corn hole while sipping on a medella. We ordered the fish burger with yucca fries and mahi mahi skewers. 

Paletados.  Stop in for ice cold paletas (popsicles) on a hot afternoon. They offer tropical, fruit and dessert flavors with a range of toppings. 

Good to Know. Carry cash. Many businesses are cash or Venmo only.

Aguadilla 

Aguadilla is the entrance to the west side of Puerto Rico. It’s home to the west’s main airport, renowned beaches, pinchos kiosks and daily sunset views.

Crash Boat Beach

Famous across the island for its concrete pier that juts out and branches into the bay. People of all ages line up to jump, dive and cannon ball from it into the calm blue water. On shore, people eagerly await grilled pinchos like skewered shark and buttered shrimp while sipping drinks including ice cold Medalla or piña colada made with Don Q. Vendors rent chairs and umbrellas for $5 a piece and offer tours of the bay on jets skis or inflatable banana boats.

Good to Know.  Recent hurricanes and tropical storms have collapsed parts of the pier. While not what it once was, it’s still a joy to jump from.

Aguadilla Pueblo

In the city center of Aguadilla, people stroll down a concrete promenade while others relax along the golden sand beach. At the same time, fishermen return from sea on small boats with the day’s catch and artists sell items including crocheted beachwear, home made candies and hand painted ceramics. 

Casas de Colores Aguadilla - Pintalto.  A colorful hillside community with dozens of painted houses and apartment rentals. Walk up the stairs and through the local neighborhood! 

Plaza Fuente de la Juventud.  A lively plaza with several restaurant and bar kiosks. It’s a great place to order food and drinks at while visiting Rompeolas Beach or to party with locals late into the weekend evenings. 

El Parterre.  A tree covered plaza with a natural cold spring and series of canals passing through it.  

Rompeolas Beach.  A small but popular local beach with a protected cove and calm swimmable water. 

Playa del Tamarindo.  A tan sand beach lined with small homes and apartments. It’s accessible from the parking lot on the south side. 

Paseo de Aguadilla

Along the promenade are several kiosks and restaurants serving coffee, pastries, fried food, the fisherman’s catch, tropical cocktails, frozen paletas and a range of Puerto Rican cuisine. As night falls and the sun sets, locals in cars with souped up speakers and buses with equipped with train horns and lights roll into town for a vibrant night out. 

Salty Pelican.  A Puerto Rican and Mexican fusion restaurant on the Paseo de Aguadilla serving fresh caught seafood, deep fried frituras and tacos. The restaurant is unmissable, with its giant statue of a hanged shark. 

Sal de Mar.  A seafood restaurant across the street from Mint with a rooftop overlooking the ocean. Their menu specializes in dishes like Caribbean lobster, fried mahi mahi bites, ceviche and crab empanadas.

Aguada 

Aguada is city half way between Aguadilla and Rincon. It’s a peaceful place to stay and the perfect location to branch out from. The coastal route is lined with palm trees, painted sculptures, boutique hotels and restaurants. The town center is built around a tree lined plaza, flanked by a cathedral, Puerto Rican homes and narrow streets. 

Beaches & Restaurants 

Pico de Piedra Beach.  A spacious and quiet beach with several nearby restaurants and bars. It’s a tranquil place to relax for the morning or afternoon. Visit Platano Loco, a beach front restaurant where everything on the menu includes plantain. Try the plantain burger with large tostones for buns. 

El Galeón.  A pirate themed seafood restaurant with pirate ship paintings, a port hole bar and a pirate statue. It’s located across the street from the waterfront. 

Guayabos.  A beachfront restaurant on a small cliff with a patio overlooking Aguada Beach. Order dishes tapas style and try the octopus salad, ceviche, shrimp empanada and fried mahi mahi bites. 

Isabela 

Isabela is a town on the northwest corner of Puerto Rico. It’s home to protected beaches, cliffside restaurants & nature trails. It’s located about 30 minutes north of Aguadilla by car. 

Beaches & Restaurants 

Jobos Beach.  A sandy beach in a protected cove shielded from large Atlantic waves by a rocky  peninsula. Its turquoise waters are the perfect place to swim and surf in the remnants of broken waves. Palm trees line the shore, offering sunbathers a shaded reprieve from the tropical sun. Empanada vendors walk the beach while a series of restaurants and bars offer places to eat and drink. Shops and rental kiosks offer beach necessities, surf boards, chairs and umbrellas. 

Montones Beach. A sandy beach protected by a large rock island. It’s a popular spot to snorkel and lounge onshore, especially for those staying at the beach’s colorful rental cottages.

Pozo De Jacinto.  A cliffside plateau with jagged rock formations and a large seaside cave. Waves crash into the cave, spraying mist into the air during large swells.

Mirador Paseo Tablado.  An elevated boardwalk meandering over steep sand dunes and through a pine forest. Its located between Jobos Beach and Montones Beach. 

Jobos Mojito Beach Bar & Restaurant.  A cliffside restaurant with panoramic views overlooking the Jobos Beach and the Atlantic Ocean. A chalkboard menu above the bar lists over 30 different types of mojitos. We ordered tamarind and passion fruit mojitos along with veggie paella for dinner from a menu including fried seafood, burgers and mofongo. 

La Playa

As the name suggests, La Playa is all about the beach. We stopped here for an afternoon at Balneario Tres Hermanos, a vast sandy and palm lined beach with calm swimmable waters. The beach also doubles as a camp ground for tents and trailers. Sea turtles are known to nest here. La Playa is about 15 minutes south of Rincon by car. 

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Chillo Frito Entero.  A fried red snapper served whole with crispy skin, tender meat and squeezed with lime. It’s usually accompanied by fried plantains like tostones, mofongo or amarillos. 

Mofongo.  Fried plantain mashed with garlic and butter. It’s often served plain or stuffed with an option of seafood. If prepared with bread fruit and yucca, it’s known as trifongo. 

Empanadillas.  Puerto Rican style fried empanadas stuffed with a range of fillings like octopus, conch, cod, shrimp, crap and pizza. 

Pinchos.  Grilled meats served on a stick often served at beaches or roadside kiosks. Our favorites are shark and shrimp. 

Mallorca.  A Puerto Rican pasty often shaped like a bun or swirled roll and dusted in powered sugar. Our favorite preparations are pressed with guava with cheese or egg and cheese. 

Coco Frio.  A cold and freshly opened coconut. Drink the coconut water inside then the sweet meat inside. Alternatively, enjoy it with coconut rum to create a tropical cocktail 

Rum.  Puerto Rico is unarguably the rum capital of the Caribbean with several distilleries and local brands served in bars across the island. Order it on the rocks, in a Pina Colada or other tropical cocktail. 

Medalla.  The island’s most popular local beer, recognizable by it’s small golden can. It has a light slightly nutty flavor and is served everywhere. Buy a 6 pack for the beach!

Getting Around

Fly into Aguadilla.  The airport has several flights per day and two small restaurants, usually open when flights are arriving or departing. Multiple car rental companies have lots nearby the airport.

Rent A Car.  Renting a car is an absolute must to get around anywhere on the west side of Puerto Rico. The entire west side of the island can be driven across in about 2 hours from north to south. We’ve had good experiences renting from Enterprise and Cabrera Car & Truck Rental. 

Location Specifics

Respect the Culture.  Puerto Ricans are very proud of their island, culture and heritage. Please show respect when discussing local issues and topics. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and learn about the culture and island.  

US Territory.  Puerto Rico is a US Territory meaning US Citizens can visit the island without a passport. 

Language.  Spanish is the primary language spoken in Puerto Rico. English is widely spoken as a second language. Knowing basic Spanish words and phrases is helpful and beneficial when visiting. 

Currency.  Puerto Rico uses the US Dollar. 

Metric vs Imperial.  Puerto Rico uses a combination of the Metric and Imperial systems. Speed limits are in marked in mph while distances are marked in kilometers. Gasoline is sold by the liter instead of by the gallon. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit and debit card is widely accepted across the island. Cash is preferred by most vendors at markets, kiosks and some businesses. 

Power Outages.  The electrical grid is fragile due to devastation from past natural disasters. While power outages rarely affect tourists, they do happen. It’s a difficult part of life for many Puerto Ricans. 

Tap Water.  Tap water is generally safe for consumption around the island. 

Tropical Weather.  Puerto Rico experiences tropical weather. Carry an umbrella incase of afternoon and evening rain storms. Tropical storms and hurricanes are possible from June through November with September through October being the most active. 

Swimming.  Mind the warning signs and red flags advising about dangerous ocean currents. Pay attention to where others are and are not swimming. 

Sun Protection.  The harsh UV is dangerous in Puerto Rico. Wear sun block when outside, even on cloudy days. 

Insect Repellent.  Mosquitos are prevalent across the island with mosquito borne illnesses on the rise. Wear insect repellant to minimize bites.  

Clothing.  Shorts and tank tops are generally acceptable to wear, keep the swimwear for the beach and plan to change into pants while dining out or visiting local spots. 

Places to Stay

Having spent two weeks on the western side of Puerto Rico over the years, we’ve found two go-to places to stay.

Puntas Tree House. A vacation rental located in the middle of Cento Puntas across from Sandy Beach. The house has two floors of affordable apartment rentals, all decorated in tropical & beachy aesthetic. Book on Airbnb.

Aguada Oceanfront House.  A vacation rental located along the beach in Aguada. It has a spacious and simple interior with nautical decor and a large window with panoramic views of the sea. We fell asleep to the sounds of the waves. Book on Airbnb.

Casa Colonial.  A vacation rental in Aguadilla with a series of units built into a historic colonial home. Its beautifully tiled floors, fully equipped kitchen and comfy bedrooms make it an ideal space for a beach weekend. It’s centrally located in Aguadilla within walking distance of Rompeolas Beach and the Paseo de Aguadilla. Book on Airbnb.

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

From colonial architecture and rainforest adventures to bioluminescent bays and Caribbean islands, discover more of Puerto Rico beyond the surf coast through these travel guides:

San Juan Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Beaches, Food & Local Culture.  Discover Puerto Rico's vibrant capital through historic neighborhoods, Caribbean beaches, local cuisine, nightlife and the rhythms of everyday island life.

Old San Juan Travel Guide: Historic Streets, Food & Colonial Charm.  Wander colorful cobblestone streets lined with colonial architecture, historic forts, local restaurants and centuries of Puerto Rican history.

Eastern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: El Yunque, Bioluminescent Bays & Beaches.  Explore Puerto Rico's lush eastern coast through rainforest trails, bioluminescent bays, secluded beaches and outdoor adventures.

Culebra & Vieques Travel Guide: Beaches & Island Adventures.  Escape to Puerto Rico's offshore islands for pristine beaches, snorkeling, wildlife refuges and some of the Caribbean's clearest waters.

Southwestern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Cabo Rojo, La Parguera & Beyond.  Experience salt flats, mangrove channels, bioluminescent waters, coastal cliffs and some of Puerto Rico's most unique landscapes.

Central Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Mountains, Hiking & Taino Sites.  Journey through Puerto Rico's mountainous interior to discover cloud forests, hiking trails, coffee farms and Indigenous heritage.

Ponce Puerto Rico Travel Guide: History, Architecture & Local Culture.  Explore Puerto Rico's second city through grand architecture, local museums, historic plazas and a distinctly southern cultural identity.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around the western side of Puerto Rico including: 

More Beach Time.  Visit more beaches along the far southwest side of the island including: Buyé Beach, Parque Nacional Balneario Boquerón and Playa El Combate Beach. 

Isla de Mona.  A remote island halfway between Puerto Rico’s western coast and the Dominican Republic. It’s known at the Galapagos of the Caribbean for its isolation, diverse wildlife, coral reefs, caves, Taino petroglyphs and beach camping. 

Culebra & Vieques Travel Guide: Beaches & Island Adventures

The Puerto Rican Archipelago  

Culebra and Vieques are two islands off Puerto Rico’s eastern coast known for their sleepy vibes, tropical atmosphere, natural landscapes and Caribbean beaches. They’re lesser traveled to and equally as enchanting as other areas of Puerto Rico with unique character of their own.  

Culebra 

Culebra is a tiny island half way between “mainland” Puerto Rico and the US Virgin Islands. Things move a little slower here making it a great place to relax and appreciate life. The island has a small town with great restaurants, is home to multiple nature reserves and a variety of beaches. 

Things to Do

There are many things to do while exploring Culebra, primarily focused on outdoor activities like snorkeling, beach hopping, hiking and watching the sunset. 

Explore Dewey.  Culebra’s only town can be walked from end to end in minutes. Though small, its main road is home to restaurants, cafes, guest houses and the ferry terminal.  

Jump from the Bridge.  Join locals and jump from the Dewey bridge into the canal. Wear water shoes to protect your feet from the mussels and urchins.

Hector the Protector.  Walk along the rock break wall across from the ferry terminal and visit Hector the Protector, a planked wood human figure holding a lantern. 

Watch a Caribbean Sunset.  Many of the western beaches like Tamarindo, Punta Soldado or Carlos Rosario are peaceful places to watch the sunset below the Caribbean.

Visit the Beaches

Culebra has many great beaches all worth visiting for different reasons. There are white sand beaches, rocky beaches, remote beaches and unofficial nude beaches.

Flamenco Beach. Flamenco Beach is beloved for its powdery white sand shore that wraps around a turquoise blue bay. Come here to relax in under the heat of the Caribbean sun or shade of a swaying palm tree. The beach is famed for its graffitied tanks. home to a campground and offering of beach services and amenities. 

Flamenco’s Tanks.  Flamenco Beach is famed for its graffitied tanks. The shoreline surrounding the most iconic tank has been swept away by recent storms. Though still accessible, it’s now a pelican nesting ground. The second tank resides on a small hill nearby. 

Beach Services.  Flamenco Beach has a range of services and amenities making it easy to stay here all day. 

• Fees.  Parking costs $5 per vehicle and $2 per person. 

• Amenities.  Restrooms, showers and lockers are available 24/7. Lockers cost an additional fee to use. Bring your own hand soap for the restrooms. 

• Kiosks.  A series of modern kiosks offer food, beverages, ice cream, beach supplies and souvenirs. Try the traditional Puerto Rican snacks like empanadillas, bacalaitos, alcapurrias and pinchos. Pair them with a boozy tropical cocktail, local beer or fruit juice. 

• Rentals.  Two kiosks offer beach rentals including chairs, umbrellas, snorkel masks, life jackets and floaties.  

• Lifeguards.  Life guards watch over designated swimming areas. 

Flamenco Beach Camping.  Camping at Flamenco Beach is one of the most enjoyable ways to maximize beach time and experience Culebra’s pristine nature. We camped here for a long weekend on our most recent trip to the island. Ten under the stars, fall asleep to the sounds of crashing waves and wake up to the calls of roosters.

• Camping is DIY.  Bring your own gear: tent, sleeping bags, air mattress, hammock, beach chairs, flashlight, etc. 

• Where to Camp.  The official camping area is located after the kiosks and behind the beachfront tree line. It’s an expansive and shaded area with plenty of space to set up undisturbed. 

• Fees & Bookings.  Camping costs $35 per night per tent. Call ahead for a reservation or book at the beachfront ticket office. The office hours are from 8am-5pm. If showing up after hours, return the next day to register and pay. For reservations and information, call (787) 742 0700. 

Culebrita Beach. A crescent shaped beach with a narrow white sand shore and calm aquamarine water. It’s located on the island of Culebrita (Little Culebra) and requires a boat to reach. We sailed here on a catamaran with a group of friends through East Island Excursions. The tour brought us to coral garden off the coast of Culebra to snorkel before mooring off shore from Culebrita Beach. We spent the afternoon diving from the catamaran, dancing to Reggaeton music, swimming between the boat and shore, relaxing on the beach and enjoying an unlimited supply of rum cocktails. 

Playa Resaca.  This beach is as much about the journey as it is the destination. After a rigorous hike, you’ll reach a vast beach that you’ll likely have to yourself the entire day. The only swimmable area is the shallows at the far east end of the beach. Because it’s so remote, it’s the perfect place to get naked ;)

Hiking to Resaca:  

• Follow a paved road up the hill past the airport. There will be a parking lot at the top. Walk through the waist high grass behind the sign to locate the trail. 

• The further you descend, the more rigorous the trail gets. You’ll have to walk over boulders and duck under tree branches. We recommend wearing pants, hiking shoes and bringing a stick to knock away spider webs and thorny plants. 

• The trail ends at a mangrove forest just before the beach. There will be pink and orange ribbons, nautical debris and water bottles strung along the trees guiding you through it. Follow these markers, even if you think you’re on the path, or you will get lost! 

• The final stretch leads through a thicket of beach grape trees ending at a lone palm tree overlooking the beach. From the parking lot, it should take 45min to reach Playa Resaca. Plan to leave the beach at least 1 hour before sunset. 

Playa Zoni.  A white sand beach equally as beautiful as Flamenco. It’s located on the northeast side of the island, easily reachable by car though rarely that busy. Outside of free parking, there are no amenities.

Playa Punta Soldado.  A rocky beach great for finding conch shells. You’ll find a lot of fragments and occasionally a whole shell. Supposedly it’s a good spot to snorkel though we’ve never tried here.

Snorkeling Beaches 

Culebra is beautiful place to snorkel with multiple reefs easily accessible from shore. The beaches along the southwest coast of Culebra are the best on the island for snorkeling.

Reserva Natural Canal Luis Peña.  A canal and  protected nature reserve separating Culebra and Cayo Luis Peña. It’s home to coral reefs, sea grass meadows, an abundance of sea life and views of Caribbean sunsets. 

Playa Tamarindo Grande.  A secluded beach along the Canal Luis Peña, accessible via the Carlos Rosario Nature Trail. Just offshore is a vibrant reef with all types of lively and colorful corals. For the best snorkeling, enter the water near the green beach sign at the center of the beach, swim about 25 feet out, then follow the reef to the left. Water shoes are recommended due to jagged rocks near the shore.

Carlos Rosario Nature Trail.  A nature trail leading from the parking lot of Flamenco Beach to Playa Tamarindo Grande and Playa Carlos Rosario. The hike is relatively easy, leading over a hilltop crest, taking about 20 minutes one way. Along the trail, watch out for skittish lizards, hermit crabs and the occasional gardener snake. 

Good to Know.  Stay on the trail as unexploded munitions from military testing are believed to be in the area. 

Playa Tamarindo.  A beautiful beach with salt and pepper pebbles and a narrow stretch of white sand. This easily accessible spot is popular place for snorkeling. A small and colorful reef home with tropical fish resides just offshore to the far left while a vast meadow seagrass meadow begins about 50 feet out. Sea turtles, eagle rays and reef squids can be seen gliding through these waters.

Playa Melones.  A small and unassuming beach with a rocky shoreline and breathtaking coral reef. Enter the water at the center of the beach then swim out and towards the rocks on the right. Beneath the surface are large formations brimming with colorful corals and tropical fish. Green, purple and yellow corals sway in the currents as fish swim between and lurk within crevices. It’s some of the best snorkeling on Culebra!

Tips for Snorkeling in Culebra:

• Snorkel Gear.  Bring your own snorkel gear or rent it from Blue Water or Culebra Divers, both located next to the ferry terminal. 

• When to Snorkel.  The sea life is most active before 10am and an hour before sunset. 

• Sunblock.  Wear reef safe sunblock to avoid harming the corals.

• Underwater Camera.  Capturing photos underwater is possible with most smart phones and a specialty case. We used the Pictar Waterproof Smartphone Caseavailable on Amazon. 

Places to Eat and Drink 

For a tiny island, Culebra has a range of great restaurants, cafes and bars, mostly centered around Dewey.

Dinghy Dock.  A popular restaurant overlooking the island’s inner bay, frequented by boaters on inflatable dinghies. Come here for tropical cocktails and fresh caught seafood dishes like grilled Mahi Mahi and Chillo Frito Entero (whole fried red snapper). Feed the scraps to the giant tarpon waiting dockside.  

Mamacita’s.  A lively restaurant and bar located along the narrow canal in the middle of town. It’s a favorite spot of ours to come for boozy cocktails and sharable appetizers like coconut shrimp, mahi mahi bites and tostones. Like Dinghy Dock, come here to feed the tarpon.

La Cocina del Navigante.  An elevated restaurant overlooking the island’s inner bay. Their kitchen specializes in seafood dishes like Caribbean lobster, filets of red snapper, shrimp stuffed mofongo and paella! 

El Batay.  A roadside bar and local hangout located halfway between town and the airport. Come here to play a game of pool, sip on drinks or order one to takeaway.  

Pan Cafe.  A very popular bakery serving pastries, breakfast sandwiches and coffee. Try the Mallorca, a bready Puerto Rican pastry shaped into a swirl and sprinkled with powdered sugar. 

Hotel Kokomo.  The perfect go to for an inexpensive meal or quick lunch, especially while waiting for the ferry. We’ve ordered fish sandwiches and empanadas. 

Black Flamingo Coffee.  Our favorite breakfast spot on the island. Come here for their coffee, homemade sourdough toast and breakfast tacos.

Culebra Coffee.  A coffee shop selling mango and acai bowls, egg dishes and baked goods.

Tips for Dining Out in Culebra:

• Most places accept credit cards however it’s good to have cash. There’s an ATM in town near the ferry terminal.

• Make reservations at places you want to eat. Service ends early and places can book up.

• Be patient, people and businesses move slower here.

Grocery Stores 

There are two grocery stores on the island. Colmado Carniceria Milka, located in town and Colmado Costa del Sol, located next to the airport. Both offer all the basics and necessities of any grocery store. They’re also good spots to buy snacks and drinks for the beach.

Getting to Culebra 

By Ferry.  Take the Puerto Rico Ferry from Ceiba to Culebra. It’s an efficient and cost effective way of reaching the island. The ferry operates on a strict schedule. You need to buy tickets at least 1 week in advance, especially if traveling on a weekend. It can take anywhere from 1-2 hours depending on the type of boat and sea conditions. 

Getting to Ceiba.  Preschedule an Uber or Lyft. Rides typically cost around $100 one way. The drive from San Juan to Ceiba takes on average 1 hour 30 minutes depending on traffic and time of day. 

By Plane.  Book flights on a puddle jumper through Cape Air. Flights take less than 30 minutes from San Juan. Roundtrip tickets can cost between $200 and $300 per person. Due to cost, we typically opt for the ferry.

Getting Around Culebra

Golf Cart Rentals.  A golf cart is the most efficient way to navigating Culebra on your own. UTV Rental PRoffers a range of rugged club cars for $70-$85 per day   

Jeep Rentals.  Having a Jeep is helpful for getting around on your own schedule but can be expensive. We’ve rented from Jerry’s Jeep Rental and Carlos Jeep Rentalon past trips for around $150 per day. It’s often more adoptable to rent a golf cart or call a taxi when needed.

Culebra Taxis.  Local drivers provide taxi services around Culebra. The typical ride costs $20 for up to 4 people. Expect to pay in cash or by payment link. Here are some reputable taxi drivers. 

• Angel (787) 455 1892

• Damaris (787) 455 1893

• Abner (787) 237 5313

On Foot.  Though Culebra is a small island, getting around on foot outside of the town is difficult but not impossible. Many people are friendly enough to stop and give you a ride. Carry a flashlight when walking at night. 

Where to Stay 

Having visited Culebra three time, we’ve camped, stayed in Dewey and further away along the bay. 

Mamacita’s Guest House. A hub for activity on Culebra and a lively place to stay in the center of town. The rooms are simple but well equipped for a relaxing stay. Make sure to visit the restaurant and bar for dinner and drinks. Book on Airbnb. 

Oceanfront Villa.  A vacation rental with panoramic views the island’s inner bay. The villa has private suites and shared balcony. It’s located about 20 minutes on foot from Dewey or 5 minutes by car. Book on Airbnb. 

Vieques

Vieques is an island 6 miles off the coast of Puerto Rico. It’s home to a bioluminescent bay, free roaming horses, white and black sand beaches, turquoise swimmable water and marine reserves.  

Faro Puerto Mulas.  A small abandoned lighthouse overlooking Isabella Segunda. 

El Fortín De Conde Mirasol.  A small Spanish fort overlooking the town of Isabel Segunda surround a blue and orange painted museum. 

300 Year Old Ceiba Tree.  A sacred tree known for its age and impressive root structure. It’s located between the airport and Mosquito Pier.  

Mosquito Pier.  A mile long pier on the north side of the island. Come here to spot marine life including manta rays, sea turtles and jelly fish.

Paso Fino Horses.  The island is home to over 2,000 free roaming horses. They are tame and can be found walking the beaches, grazing in fields and along the road sides. Watch out for piles of horse manure. Various company’s offer riding tours along the beaches. 

Vieques National Wildlife Refuge.  A nature reserve that covers more than half the island and includes bays, mangrove forests, salt flats, hiking trails, beaches and coral reefs.

Things to Do 

Explore the Small Towns.  Vieques is home to two small towns on opposite sides of the island.

• Isabel Segunda. The main town on the north side of the island with the ferry terminal, grocery stores, restaurants, hotels and souvenir shops.

• Esperanza.  A beach town on the south side of the island with restaurants, hotels, tour companies and a range of beaches. 

Crab Island Rum Distillery.  Visit the island’s on rum distillery! Crab Island produces 14 month, 3 year and orange flavored rums. Most bars and restaurants on the island serve their rum. Go to Bili for a Rum Island Iced tea made from all three! 

Go Stargazing.  Given the remote location and lack of city lights, the sky is often dark for brilliant stargazing. Download the free Sky Tonight app to identify constellations, planets and distant stars.

Kayak in the Bioluminescent Bay (Mosquito Bay).  Recognized as the brightest bioluminescent bay in the world. We came here to kayak at night to experience the bioluminescence. Immediately after paddling away in our kayak, the water began to sparkle around us, our paddle illuminated vibrant streaks of bioluminescence and swimming fish left a glowing trail behind them. It was truly an unreal experience that felt like the Manta Ray in Moana or a patronus charm in Harry Potter. Book with Abe’s Snorkeling and Bio Bay Tours. They offer snorkeling tours across the island and kayaking tours in the bio bay and mangrove channels. 

Beach Hopping 

Rent a car and spend time beach hopping across the island. Vieques is home to numerous beaches ranging in size, swimmability and accessibility. The most popular and swimmable beaches are on the south side of the island. The most remote are located in the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge.

Bastimento Beach.  A long meandering beach with turquoise water, a sandy shore, coral reefs, a protected tide pool and snorkeling on the north side of the island.

El Gallito (Gringo Beach).  A roadside beach with a sandy shore, short palm trees and views looking towards the mainland of Puerto Rico and Culebra. 

Playa Negra.  A semi remote cliff side black sand beach. There is a small parking lot nearby Playa Negra Fine Foods. Follow a trail to get here (technically a stream) and walk for 15 minutes until reaching the beach. It’s not the safest for swimming due to rocks and currents. It’s located on the south side just west of Esperanza. 

Playa Caracas (The Red Beach).  A beach with white sand, palm trees, turquoise water and shard gazebos. It’s located in the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge.

Esperanza Beach.  A popular beach nearby town on the south side of the island with kiosks, restaurants, bars and kayak rentals.

Sea Glass Beach.  A small beach to collect handfuls of sea glass within minutes of beach combing. It’s located in the town of Isabel Segunda. 

Playa Pata Prieta (Secret Beach).  A secluded beach popular for swimming and snorkeling. It’s a 10 min drive east of Playa Caracas. 

Playa Chiva (Blue Beach).  A long powder white sand beach with calm with turquoise and navy blue water. Come here to swim and snorkel. It’s a 5 min drive east of Playa Pata Prieta. 

Escondida Beach.  A small beach with some snorkeling. It can frequently be covered in sea weed. Located a 15min walk east of Playa Chiva. 

Playa Plata.  A semi private white sand beach with crystal clear turquoise water for swimming and snorkeling. Located a 5min drive east of Playa Chiva. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Saint Voodoos Mar Azul.  A waterfront bar with a deck overlooking the Caribbean. Come here for cocktails and lite bites at sunset. 

Lazy Jacks.  A restaurant and bar near Esperanza beach for tacos, sandwiches, salads, beers and cocktails. 

Lydia’s Bakery.  A bakery with breads, sandwiches, pastry’s and coffee. 

Bili.  A restaurant with an impressive seafood menu including Caribbean lobsters, grilled mahi mahi and octopus. Come here for their Crab Island Long Island. 

Vieques Food Park.  A food truck park with several restaurants. We came to Rincon Cafe for breakfast and coffee. 

Bar La Nasa.  A beach front bar with cocktails, beer and music. 

Family Market Centró Ahorras.  A grocery store located in Isabella Seguda. Come here to stock up on water, beers and snacks before heading to the beach. 

Getting to Vieques 

By Air.  We booked a one way flight with Cape Air, from San Juan to Vieques. It’s a quick 20 min flight over the El Yunque rainforest and scenic way to travel. They offer multiple flights daily for around $100 one way. 

By Sea.  We booked our return trip on the Puerto Rico Ferry, from Vieques to Ceiba. From Ceiba we took an Uber to San Juan. One way ferry tickets cost $2 and the Uber costs around $100. 

Getting Around Vieques

By Car.  Vieques is a large island. The best way to get around, see all of the sights and explore is by renting a car. We booked with Maritza’s Car Rental for about $110 per day with insurance. 

By Taxi.  Taxis were readily available across the Island bringing people between Isabella Segunda, Escondida, the airport and accessible beaches. 

Where to Stay

Tropical Guest House. A beautifully decorated home in Isabella Segunda with a comfy bed, kitchenette, outdoor grill, beech chairs, umbrellas and snorkel equipment. Book here on Airbnb. 

Location Specifics

Respect the Culture.  Puerto Ricans are very proud of their island, culture and heritage. Please show respect when discussing local issues and topics. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and learn about the culture and island.  

US Territory.  Puerto Rico is a US Territory meaning US Citizens can visit the island without a passport. 

Language.  Spanish is the primary language spoken in Puerto Rico. English is widely spoken as a second language. Knowing basic Spanish words and phrases is helpful and beneficial when visiting. 

Currency.  Puerto Rico uses the US Dollar. 

Metric vs Imperial.  Puerto Rico uses a combination of the Metric and Imperial systems. Speed limits are in marked in mph while distances are marked in kilometers. Gasoline is sold by the liter instead of by the gallon. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit and debit card is widely accepted across the island. Cash is preferred by most vendors at markets, kiosks and some businesses. 

Power Outages.  The electrical grid is fragile due to devastation from past natural disasters. While power outages rarely affect tourists, they do happen. It’s a difficult part of life for many Puerto Ricans. 

Tap Water.  Tap water is generally safe for consumption around the island. 

Tropical Weather.  Puerto Rico experiences tropical weather. Carry an umbrella incase of afternoon and evening rain storms. Tropical storms and hurricanes are possible from June through November with September through October being the most active. 

Swimming.  Mind the warning signs and red flags advising about dangerous ocean currents. Pay attention to where others are and are not swimming. 

Sun Protection.  The harsh UV is dangerous in Puerto Rico. Wear sun block when outside, even on cloudy days. 

Insect Repellent.  Mosquitos are prevalent across the island with mosquito borne illnesses on the rise. Wear insect repellant to minimize bites.  

Clothing.  Shorts and tank tops are generally acceptable to wear, keep the swimwear for the beach and plan to change into pants while dining out or visiting local spots. 

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico 

From vibrant cities and rainforest hikes to surf breaks and mountain landscapes, explore more of Puerto Rico beyond its offshore islands through these travel guides:

San Juan Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Beaches, Food & Local Culture.  Discover Puerto Rico's vibrant capital through historic neighborhoods, Caribbean beaches, local cuisine, nightlife and the rhythms of everyday island life.

Old San Juan Travel Guide: Historic Streets, Food & Colonial Charm.  Wander colorful cobblestone streets lined with colonial architecture, historic forts, local restaurants and centuries of Puerto Rican history.

Eastern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: El Yunque, Bioluminescent Bays & Beaches.  Explore Puerto Rico's lush eastern coast through rainforest trails, bioluminescent bays, secluded beaches and outdoor adventures.

Western Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Rincón, Beaches & Surfing.  Discover Puerto Rico's surf capital through laid-back beach towns, coastal scenery, marine life and world-class waves.

Southwestern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Cabo Rojo, La Parguera & Beyond.  Experience salt flats, mangrove channels, bioluminescent waters, coastal cliffs and some of Puerto Rico's most unique landscapes.

Central Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Mountains, Hiking & Taino Sites.  Journey through Puerto Rico's mountainous interior to discover cloud forests, hiking trails, coffee farms and Indigenous heritage.

Ponce Puerto Rico Travel Guide: History, Architecture & Local Culture.  Explore Puerto Rico's second city through grand architecture, local museums, historic plazas and a distinctly southern cultural identity.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips to Vieques including: 

Mt. Pirata Observation Post.  Hike to tropical summit of the tallest point on Vieques measuring nearly 1,000 feet above sea level. 

Horseback Riding on Vieques.  We have our eyes set on a beach sunset horseback riding tour. 

Old San Juan Travel Guide: Historic Streets, Food & Colonial Charm

Bienvenidos al Viejo San Juan

Old San Juan is an enchanting, romantic, vibrant and historic neighborhood of San Juan, Puerto Rico. The old town is lined with cobble stone streets, colorful colonial architecture, world famous cocktail bars, restaurants serving Caribbean cuisine and music playing during all hours of the day. It is rich in history, flanked by two fortresses and surrounded by a stone wall overlooking the North Atlantic. 

A Second Home

Puerto Rico has become a second home to us. From quick weekend getaways to month long trips, we’ve spent time exploring the island and immersing ourselves in so much of what it has to offer from the nature, cuisine and culture. This guide focuses on our time visiting and staying in Old San Juan. 

Neighborhoods & Streets

Calle San Sebastián.  A cobblestone street is lined with colorful and vibrant colonial architecture. It’s known for its bustling nightlife scene, famed cocktail bars and lgbtq+ friendly atmosphere. 

Calle San Francisco.  This street runs central through Old San Juan and is a good place to start exploring. There are plenty of restaurants, bars, cafes, shops, hotels, plazas and residences here.

Calle de la Luna.  Though all streets in Old San Juan are flanked with beautiful architecture, this one is one of our favorites to walk down. There are many colorful buildings, colonial balconies, unique door knockers and abandoned buildings that have been retaken by nature. 

Plaza das Armas.  Old San Juan’s historic town square with performers, a fountain, statues and pigeons. It’s a favorite spot of ours to grab a coffee and mallorca from the green gazebo in the northwest corner. 

Caleta de San Juan.  A romantic tree covered street lined with colorful colonial buildings, hole in the wall restaurants and wine bars. The cobblestone street leads uphill from the Puerta de San Juan to the historic Basilica of San Juan. 

La Perla.  A colorful seaside neighborhood located between the north wall of Old San Juan and the Atlantic Coast. Over the past years, the community in La Perla has turned their neighborhood into a destination filled with rustic bars, local hangouts and art. 

Sights & Museums 

Castillo de San Cristóbal.  This is one of the largest colonial military fortress in the Caribbean and marks the entrance to Old San Juan. You can easily spend a half day here exploring the barracks, fortress walls, guard towers and grounds. One of the fort’s hidden gems is a surviving drawing of Spanish ships drawn on the wall of a former prison cell deep with in the tunnels. 

Castillo San Felipe del Morro (El Morro).  This is the oldest colonial fortress in the Caribbean and a great place to learn about the history and strategic importance of Old San Juan. Similar to San Cristobal, you can spend an afternoon here exploring the different levels and sections. The fort is perched on the NW side of the old town. It’s accessible after crossing a large lawn known for flying Chiringas or kites and food carts selling tropical flavored snow cones called Piraguas. 

Pro Tip.  The receipt from one fort gets you access to the other on the same day you visit.

Paseo del Morro.  A romantic seaside promenade that follows the old town’s wall. It is a beautiful place to walk, watch the sunset and look out towards the sea. We we’re incredibly lucky to see the Green Flash from here. It passes La Puerta de San Juan, the original entrance to the walled city and connects Paseo de la Princesa to the Maria Magdelana Cemetery. 

La Casa Estrecha.  A narrow house, measuring about 5 feet wide, with a vibrant yellow facade. Adorned with the Puerto Rican flag, the building is an iconic symbol of Old San Juan.  

Calle Fortaleza. A street is filled with souvenir shops, restaurants and jewelry stores, ending at the Governor’s Mansion, La Forteleza. The end of the street is often decorated in an ever changing canopy of umbrellas, banners, flowers or lights. 

Paseo de la Princesa.  A palm lined seaside promenade along the south wall. There is a nightly market with salsa dancing, food trucks offering up fried foods and sweets, gazebos selling cocktails, and tented vendors selling homemade crafts.

Plaza del Quinto Centenario.  A plaza commemorating the 500 years since Columbus first voyaged to Puerto Rico. At its center is a tall totem made from fragments of clay pottery representing the violent first meeting between the indigenous Taino and European colonists. 

La Puerta de la Bandera.  A black and white painting of the Puerto Rican flag on the wooden door of a crumbling brick building. It symbolizes Puerto Rican resistance against injustice.

Parque San Francisco.  A small and hidden park nestled between the crumbling brick and plaster walls of the surrounding colonial buildings. The park offers a quiet place to relax and take a break while exploring the old town. 

Callejón de la Puerta con la Bandera. A large doorway at the end of a blue cobblestone alley with a vivid painting of the Puerto Rican flag. It’s a very popular photo spot for both tourists and locals. Recently an artist added a colorful mural of Puerto Rican artists Bad Bunny and Elizam Escobar to the adjacent door.

Maria Magdelana Cemetery.  A beautiful seaside cemetery with above ground tombs, a large mausoleum and monuments dedicated to the dead. Its location between La Perla and El Morro along the coast is strategic to carry the deceased souls across the ocean into the afterlife. 

Museo de las Americas.  This museum focuses on pre-colonial and modern art and artifacts, the colonization of Puerto Rico and the island’s African heritage.

Capilla del Cristo.  A small chapel built on the cliffside edge of the old town’s wall. It is dedicated to health and well being, commemorating the story of a man who plunged off the cliff while horse racing but survived. 

Things to Do

Hire a Photographer.  Hire a photographer to take photos of you around the old town during the morning or evening golden hours. We booked with Raul at Rolo Photo PR and couldn’t have been happier with the outcome! 

Fly a Chiringa. The ocean breezes from the lawn in front of El Morro make it a great location and fun Sunday afternoon pastime. Kites can be bought from street vendors adjacent to the lawn. 

Visit the Farmers Market.  Located in front of the San Juan Museum every Saturday morning. It’s a great spot to purchase local produce, fresh baked breads and flowers.

Sunset Harbor Boat Ride.  A sunset cruise on a large pontoon style boat around the harbor of Old San Juan with historical info, snacks, rum punch and music. Book Here!

Vamos al la Playa

Playa Peña.  A secluded beach in Old San Juan, located on the other side of Castillo de San Cristobal. It’s a cute sand and rock beach below the cliff in front of the capital. The water isn’t safe for swimming. 

Playa El Escambrón.  A sandy palm covered beach between Old San Juan and Condado. It’s a popular beach for swimming, snorkeling, grilling and sunbathing. The best place to snorkel is the protected cove next to the Caribe Hilton. Come here in the morning to spot sea turtles feeding in the seagrass and tropical fish swimming among the underwater sculpture garden. There’s also the ruins of a small fort, Fortín del Escambrón, nearby. 

Places to Shop

Spicy Caribe. A spice store with hot sauces, spices and vanilla made from locally grown ingredients. 

El Mundo Taino.  A souvenir shop with locally made home goods, artwork, jewelry and coffee. 

Hatian Gallery.  A shop specializing in handmade artwork, sculptures and jewelry from Puerto Rico and other Caribbean islands. 

Materia Prima.  An organic grocery store with local farmed Puerto Rican produce, provisions and meats. It has a coffee bar and is connected to a wine bar in the Hotel Convento. 

U Go Market. A grocery store with produce, snacks, beverages, alcohol, beach-ware and sunblock. 

John Napoli.  A kitchen supply store with a range of cookware and kitchen gadgets including Puerto Rican pilóns, calderos and large paella pans.

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Chillo Frito Entero. A fried red snapper served whole with crispy skin, tender meat and squeezed with lime. It’s usually accompanied by fried plantains like tostones, mofongo or amarillos. 

Mofongo. Fried plantain mashed with garlic and butter. It’s often served plain or stuffed with an option of seafood. If prepared with bread fruit and yucca, it’s known as trifongo. 

Empanadillas. Puerto Rican style fried empanadas stuffed with a range of fillings like octopus, conch, cod, shrimp, crap and pizza. 

Pinchos. Grilled meats served on a stick often served at beaches or roadside kiosks. Our favorites are shark and shrimp. 

Mallorca. A Puerto Rican pasty often shaped like a bun or swirled roll and dusted in powered sugar. Our favorite preparations are pressed with guava with cheese or egg and cheese. 

Coco Frio. A cold and freshly opened coconut. Drink the coconut water inside then the sweet meat inside. Alternatively, enjoy it with coconut rum to create a tropical cocktail 

Rum. Puerto Rico is unarguably the rum capital of the Caribbean with several distilleries and local brands served in bars across the island. Order it on the rocks, in a Pina Colada or other tropical cocktail. 

Medalla. The island’s most popular local beer, recognizable by it’s small golden can. It has a light slightly nutty flavor and is served everywhere. Buy a 6 pack for the beach! 

The Food Scene 

A huge part of the culture in Puerto Rico involves eating, drinking and getting together with others. With that in mind, there are so many great places to eat and drink. Having visited Old San Juan several times, we’ve been able to try out numerous restaurants, cafes and bars. 

Pro Tip. It’s best to make a reservation whenever dining out in Old San Juan. 

Restaurants 

La Garita.  A restaurant and bar serving Puerto Rican dishes and rum cocktails with a view overlooking La Perla. Ask for a Pina Colada made with a double shot of Don Q, Puerto Rico’s most popular rum. 

El Jibarito.  Another restaurant serving Puerto Rican dishes. Come here for the whole fried fish and mofongo. 

La Madre.  A Mexican restaurant with delicious tacos. Eat outside on the pedestrian tree-lined street. 

Cayo Caribe.  A local chain of restaurants serving Caribbean seafood. Try the Salmorejo (stewed land crab and tomatoes), stuffed mofongos or chillo frito entero. 

Ladis.  A famous seaside restaurant built into the cliff between OSJ and Condado. Come here for seafood, cocktails and ocean views.

Señor Paleta.  A popular spot to buy fruit and dessert popsicles mid-day or after dinner.

Puerto Criollo. A Puerto Rican restaurant with classics like fried snapper, stuffed mofongo and octopus salad. They also service inventive tropical cocktails in unique glasses.

Al Fresco Rooftop Wine & Tapas.  A quiet place with a rooftop patio in the middle of Old San Juan. Come here for lite bites and wine. We shared a cheese board and bottle of bubbly. 

Otras Cosas.  A large outdoor restaurant to come for lunch, dinner and live music. Try the whole Caribbean lobster and coconut filled with coconut rum. 

Mar y Rosa.  A rooftop restaurant with el fresco dining and an elevated menu. Come here for the panoramic views at sunset, tasty cocktails and seafood menu with Korean & Caribbean influences. 

El Champi.  A tapas restaurant offering Spanish style small plates, paella and charcuterie. It’s located on Caleta de San Juan, a romantic tree covered street.  It’s adjoined by El Rincón del Vino, a small wine bar with a broad selection of wines all nestled within a small interior courtyard. 

Atelier Rooftop Terrace.  A rooftop bar and restaurant at the Hotel Palacio Provincial. It offers sunset views and overlooks the neighboring basilica.  

Caleta del Vino.  A charming wine bar, nestled on cobblestone street along the historic city wall. Come here for a romantic sunset to enjoy a curated charcuterie spread paired with wines by the glass or bottle. 

Dos Lobos.  A local chain specializing in nearly a dozen different types of baked Puerto Rican pastelillos (aka, empanadas). Order a pastelillos to go or enjoy one at the bar with a local beer or cocktail.

Aliado Bar & Apertivo.  A fully vegan restaurant with an inventive menu and range of dishes made using locally sourced ingredients. Order a trio of dishes to share like the papaya nigiri, funghi pasta, and fondue. 

Pirilo Pizza Rustica.  An extremely popular pizzeria hidden on the second floor of an old town building. They offer a variety of handmade and artisan style pizzas, empanadas and local beers. 

Cafes & Coffee Shops 

Cuarto Estaciones.  A green gazebo located in the Plaza de Armas serving coffee and pastries. We often come here for our first breakfast while in town, sitting under the shaded patio, surrounded by potted plants and chirping birds. Our usual order consists of iced lattes with canela and Mallorca with guava and cheese. They’re cash only. 

La Carreta.  Come here for the variety of sweet and savory breakfast dishes. Try an egg sandwich on Mallorca and a mimosa made from freshly squeezed OJ. 

Caficultura.  A brunch spot in Plaza Colón serving versions of the Puerto Rican sweet bread, Mallorca. Try the Mallorca con Guayaba (guava) or Mallorca French Toast with locally grown and roasted coffee. 

St Germain Bistro & Cafe.  A vegetarian friendly brunch spot with pancakes, toasts, sandwiches and burgers. 

Mallorca. A bakery specializing in its namesake, Mallorca. It’s unmistakable by its sign spelling out Mallorca in large red letters.

787 Coffee.  A coffee shop brewing Puerto Rican grown and roasted coffee beans. We discovered them on the East Village of NYC and visited their location near Escambron Beach while in Old San Juan.  

Pilao Bakery-Cafe.  Bakery with large portion breakfasts and coffee. 

Bien Papaya.  A coffee shop with Mallorca, smoothies and smoothie bowls right by San Cristobal. 

Don Ruiz.  A cafe in the Museo de las Americas with fresh roasted coffee and bottled beer.

C.B Restaurant.  A breakfast and brunch spot in plaza colon. Try the Boricua Morning Mallorca. 

Cocktail Bars & Nightlife 

La Casita de Rones.  A pink house and outdoor cocktail bar serving rum and tiki drinks overlooking the bay. It’s a nice escape from the busy streets or to end the night.

La Factoria.  A famous cocktail bar, ranked in the Top 50 in the World. The bar is in a dimly lit old world interior, connected to multiple other bars. One of our favorite drinks to order here is the El Peligroso, made with Ron de Barillito, Campari, spices and lime. 

Vino.  A wine bar connected to La Factoria with wine based cocktails like sangria. 

El Desvio.  A tiny candle lit cocktail bar hidden within the passageways of La Factoria. It’s open sometimes and closed others. 

La Cubanita.  A cocktail bar with a local atmosphere and menu of traditional and craft cocktails. Like Vino and El Desivo, it’s connected to La Factoria. 

Antiguo 26.  A high end cocktail bar, set inside a former soda factory. Mixologists craft innovative cocktails using homemade sodas as a nod to the building's history. Its distinctive yellow and blue tiled facade makes it easily recognizable among the colorful buildings of Old San Juan.

The Mezzanine.  A cocktail bar offering a variety of tropical drinks made using local ingredients and spirits. Try the Coqui Coqui, a modern take on the classic Piña Colada, awarded best at the annual Piña Colada Festival or the Rum Sunset and Borikén Breeze for fruity and refreshing rum based drink.

El Batey.  A late night dive bar with graffitied walls, a pool table and lights covered in notes, cash and napkins left behind from past visitors.

Colmado Cocteleria Tropical.  A bar on Calle de San Sebastián designed like a traditional Puerto Rican colmado (a local convenience store) with shelves of faux and vintage groceries and plantain decor. Sip on a cocktail while playing dominos or taking pictures in the photo booth. 

La Sombrilla Rosa.  A popular gay bar on Calle San Sebastián. Bartenders serve in inexpensive drinks while Reggaeton music echos out onto the street. 

El Cafetín.  One of the most energetic bars on Calle San Sebastián with locals and tourists standing shoulder to shoulder, singing and dancing with a drink in hand late into the night 

Barrachina.  The location where the Piña Colada was invented. Come here for the classic cocktail and stay for lunch or dinner in their courtyard. 

Cannon Club.  A dueling piano bar with live parrots, multiple levels and eclectic decor. This place is more about the drinks and unique atmosphere than the food.

La Verguenza.  This multi-level bar overlooks La Perla is the center of nightlife in OSJ. The nightly party spills out into the streets and continues early into the morning. 

Cafe Darsenas.  A blue gazebo on the Paseo de la Princesa with affordable drinks and light bites. We often come here for a frozen sangria to-go. 

El Vino Crudo.  A hidden wine bar tucked away on Callejón Gambaro. They pour natural wines and serve Spanish tapas late into the night.

Scryer Rum Barrelhouse & Rooftop.  A small batch rum distillery and cocktail bar in Old San Juan with a wall of barreled rum. We drank cocktails here made exclusively from their house distilled rum under candle light during a city wide black out. 

Cervecería Del Callejón.  A micro-brewery with a small menu of house brewed beers and bar games. It’s located on the blue cobblestone alley of Callejón. Come here for flight and try their whole menu. 

Nico Rooftop Bar.  A small bar with a rooftop deck overlooking the Atlantic Ocean and the seaside community of La Perla. Come here for classic cocktails and small bites. 

La Grieta.  A dimly lit cocktail bar specializing in mezcal and mezcal cocktails. There is limited seating inside however the bar spills out onto the cobblestone street with small tables and sofas.

Cui Cui.  An upscale cocktail bar specializing in the truest forms of classic cocktails using ingredients of the era and location in which they were created. Their specialty menu features experimental cocktails with a Puerto Rican twist. 

Casa Melaza Rum Boutique.  A small rum bar offering tastings of vintage, rare and specialty rums. 

Places to Stay 

We’ve stayed at a range of places in Old San Juan including apartments overlooking the ocean, a private room in a rum baron’s mansion, a ruin style apartment and a boutique hotel. 

Casa Luna.  A boutique hotel with range of apartment rentals and a rooftop terrace. It’s located in the middle of Old San Juan on Calle de la Luna. Book Here!

Cozy Historic Ruin Apartment.  A small apartment built within the ruins of a crumbling building.The space has character and charm that exemplifies the old town. Book Here!

PH Apt in Old San Juan w/ Terrace.  A comfortable and spacious apartment with a large private terrace overlooking the old town’s cobblestone streets and colorful buildings. Book Here!

Live Like a Rum Baron in a 200 Year Old Mansion.  An elevated apartment with private rooms and cozy communal spaces in a renovated colonial building. Book Here!

Getting Around

On Foot.  Old San Juan is very walkable and by far the best way to see the city. Be careful of the narrow sidewalks and cobble stones. 

By Uber.  Use Uber to get to/from Old San Juan from the airport or San Juan proper. Ubers are typically inexpensive. The best place for pick up and drop off is Plaza Colon at the entrance of the old town. 

Free Shuttle.  There is a free “shuttle” aka a large golf cart the shuttles people a loop in the old town.

By Car / Parking.  Traffic gets congested in and around Old San Juan. The best place to park in Old San Juan is Dona Fella, garage on the south side of the Old Town. Parking typically costs $1 per hour.

Location Specifics

Respect the Culture.  Puerto Ricans are very proud of their island, culture and heritage. Please show respect when discussing local issues and topics. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and learn about the culture and island.  

US Territory.  Puerto Rico is a US Territory meaning US Citizens can visit the island without a passport. 

Language.  Spanish is the primary language spoken in Puerto Rico. English is widely spoken as a second language. Knowing basic Spanish words and phrases is helpful and beneficial when visiting. 

Currency.  Puerto Rico uses the US Dollar. 

Metric vs Imperial.  Puerto Rico uses a combination of the Metric and Imperial systems. Speed limits are in marked in mph while distances are marked in kilometers. Gasoline is sold by the liter instead of by the gallon. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit and debit card is widely accepted across the island. Cash is preferred by most vendors at markets, kiosks and some businesses. 

Power Outages.  The electrical grid is fragile due to devastation from past natural disasters. While power outages rarely affect tourists, they do happen. It’s a difficult part of life for many Puerto Ricans. 

Tap Water.  Tap water is generally safe for consumption around the island. 

Tropical Weather.  Puerto Rico experiences tropical weather. Carry an umbrella incase of afternoon and evening rain storms. Tropical storms and hurricanes are possible from June through November with September through October being the most active. 

Swimming.  Mind the warning signs and red flags advising about dangerous ocean currents. Pay attention to where others are and are not swimming. 

Sun Protection.  The harsh UV is dangerous in Puerto Rico. Wear sun block when outside, even on cloudy days. 

Insect Repellent.  Mosquitos are prevalent across the island with mosquito borne illnesses on the rise. Wear insect repellant to minimize bites.  

Clothing.  Shorts and tank tops are generally acceptable to wear, keep the swimwear for the beach and plan to change into pants while dining out or visiting local spots. 

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

From rainforest adventures and island escapes to surfing beaches and mountain landscapes, continue exploring Puerto Rico beyond Old San Juan's historic walls through these travel guides:

San Juan Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Beaches, Food & Local Culture.  Discover Puerto Rico's vibrant capital through historic neighborhoods, Caribbean beaches, local cuisine, nightlife and the rhythms of everyday island life.

Eastern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: El Yunque, Bioluminescent Bays & Beaches.  Explore Puerto Rico's lush eastern coast through rainforest trails, bioluminescent bays, secluded beaches and outdoor adventures.

Culebra & Vieques Travel Guide: Beaches & Island Adventures.  Escape to Puerto Rico's offshore islands for pristine beaches, snorkeling, wildlife refuges and some of the Caribbean's clearest waters.

Western Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Rincón, Beaches & Surfing.  Discover Puerto Rico's surf capital through laid-back beach towns, coastal scenery, marine life and world-class waves.

Southwestern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Cabo Rojo, La Parguera & Beyond.  Experience salt flats, mangrove channels, bioluminescent waters, coastal cliffs and some of Puerto Rico's most unique landscapes.

Central Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Mountains, Hiking & Taino Sites.  Journey through Puerto Rico's mountainous interior to discover cloud forests, hiking trails, coffee farms and Indigenous heritage.

Ponce Puerto Rico Travel Guide: History, Architecture & Local Culture.  Explore Puerto Rico's second city through grand architecture, local museums, historic plazas and a distinctly southern cultural identity.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around Old San Juan including: 

San Sebastian Festival.  A massive festival and street party held throughout Old San Juan in January to mark the end of the holidays with performers, a parade, street food, music and dancing. 

Tomb of Juan Ponce de León.  The tomb of the decisive conquistador credited with founding San Juan. His tomb is located inside of the Catedral Basilica Menor de San Juan Bautista

Casa Blanca.  A 500 year old house in Old San Juan built for Ponce de Leon. It was converted into a museum with Spanish colonial artifacts.

San Juan Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Beaches, Food & Local Culture

San Juan, Puerto Rico

San Juan is a tropical metropolis that’s equal parts city and beach with skyscrapers and homes lining the Atlantic coast. Come here to spend leisurely afternoons on a sandy shore, under an umbrella or at a beach club. Explore the city’s cultural side at art museums, graffitied streets, historic sights and rum distilleries. Celebrate life like a Puerto Rican with Reggaeton music, salsa dancing, traditional dishes, tropical drinks or a local beer. 

Neighborhoods & Streets

Condado.  A seaside neighborhood with skyscrapers, hotels, restaurants, bars and beaches.

Miramar.  A residential neighborhood with historic homes and buildings built in The Spanish Colonial Revival style. It’s central to Old San Juan and Condado. 

Santurce.  A large area of San Juan home to art museums, food truck parks and the nightlife hubs of Calle Cerra and La Placita. 

Ocean Park.  A trendy yet local neighborhood popular for its beach and variety of restaurants and nightlife. 

Calle Loíza.  Ocean Park’s main street for brunch spots, open air restaurants, cocktails bars, surf shops and Loíza Brinca, a famous corner building featuring the Puerto Rican flag.

Carolina.  A suburb of San Juan home to the city’s airport, oceanfront resorts and pristine white sand beaches. 

Vamos a la Playa

Atlantic Beach.  A lengthy golden sand beach in Condado and one of the most popular in San Juan. Come here so tan in the tropical sun, swimming in the turquoise blue waters or body surf in the waves. Hotels rent sun umbrellas and lounges to non-guests, kiosks offer tropical cocktails and juices and vendors walk the beach selling empanadas. There is a large gay section in front of The Tryst Hotel on weekends. 

The Atlantic at the Tryst.  An ocean front bar and restaurant at The Tryst Hotel on Atlantic Beach. Come here for drag brunch on Sundays to watch Puerto Rican queens perform, lip sync for their life and collect dollar bills from lively guests. 

Pro Tip.  Join the other gays soaking up the sun on the beach after brunch! Keep your receipt to rent a pink umbrella and sun lounge for free!

Playita del Condado.  A beach located next to the Puente dos Hermanos between the Condado Lagoon and the Atlantic Ocean. The water is calm enough for swimming and snorkeling with chair rentals for lounging on the beach.

Ocean Park Beach.  This vast beach is probably the most popular in San Juan. Everyone from locals, tourists, families and couples come here. There are plenty of restaurants, marine sports and activities, chair and umbrella rentals and vendors selling drinks on the beach.

Numero Uno Beach Hotel & Restaurant.  A beach club located at Ocean Park Beach. Come here for a relaxing day under the shade of an umbrella or palm tree while watching kite surfers ride the wind and waves. Order the beach vibes package, it includes two chairs, an umbrella, bottle of bubbly and bag of chips and salsa.

Carolina Public Beach.  A lengthy tan beach with calm and swimmable waters. It’s watched over by lifeguards and popular with locals and families. There are a few beachfront gazebos offering drinks, snacks and ice cream. 

Ocean Lab Brewing Co.  A craft brewery at Carolina Beach with nearly 2 dozen beers. Come for lunch and order a flight while overlooking the aquamarine ocean waters. Try the Mambo for a juicy wheat beer with passionfruit notes or the SJU for an easy drinking lager.

Isla Verde Beach.  A continuation of Carolina Public Beach with tall palm groves, shaded gazebo rentals and a series of resorts providing chair and umbrella rentals. The beach is the perfect spot to swim, sunbathe and relax! 

Pine Grove Beach.  A beach between Island Verde and Ocean Park Beaches. It’s popular for beginner surfing with surf schools and rentals.  

See the Sights & Museums 

Fortín San Jerónimo de Boquerón.  A small fort at the mouth of the Condado Lagoon. The visiting hours are infrequent due to repairs post Hurricane Maria. It’s worth visiting if open. 

Puente Dos Hermanos.  The bridge crossing the Condado Lagoon connecting to Old San Juan. It’s beautiful to walk across with great views. There is also a ledge making it easy to jump from into the lagoon. The Condado side has a small sandy beach, Playita del Condado.

Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico.  A well curated and diverse collection of Puerto Rican art and history. After touring the galleries, walk through the sculpture garden. 

Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Puerto Rico (MAC).  A contemporary art museum with rotating galleries specific to social movements, local artists and Puerto Rican heritage. 

Things to Do

Visit a Rum Distillery.  The two distilleries to visit are the Bacardi Factory or Ron del Barrilito. Both offer similar experiences. Bacardi is large scale production while Ron de Barrilito is small batch and higher end. Arrive to a welcome drink, learn about the history of each distillery, their processes of rum making and afterwards take a mixology class, sample aged vintages or simply order cocktails from the bar. Either way, expect to leave tipsy.  

SUP or Kayak in Laguna de Condado.  Tour companies based around the lagoon offer SUP and Kayak rentals for $20/hour. The lagoon is a boat free place to spot eagle rays, star fish and sea turtles. We booked though VIP Adventures Puerto Rico.

Take the Ferry to Cataño.  A neighborhood a quick ferry ride across the harbor from Old San Juan with a waterfront boardwalk home to several restaurants and bars. The ferry operates from the cruise docks hourly throughout most of the day for just a couple of dollars. It’s a popular place to visit for the Bacardi Factory from. 

Eat at Piñones.  A food hub known for Puerto Rican and Caribbean cuisine just outside of San Juan. The main street, located along the Atlantic coast, is lined with dozens of restaurant, bars and kiosks. We hopped from place to place and ordered crab empanadillas, cod alcapurrias, coco frio and rum punch. Visit El Coco Frio for quick roadside bites and Los Barriles Restaurant for a plated dishes and beach views. Visit the dockside restaurant of La Casita Amarilla for their arepas de coco and flavored mojitos. Relax in the sandy and shallow tide pools at Poza Los Barriles Beach. 

Take Salsa Lessons.  Take a salsa lesson from a local instructor, learning the history and basics before heading to a salsa bar in La Placita to practice your moves. Lesson happen by night in Plaza Antonia Quiñones. Return on Sunday mornings for a weekly farmers market. Book Here!

Visit the Parque Forestal La Marquesa.  A forested nature park covered in a verdant canopy of trees and palms in the mountains outside of San Juan. Ride the teleferico (cable car) above the forested mountainside and lush ridges. Visit the butterfly conservatory and aviary to see monarchs, parrots and colorful birds fly around the netted enclosures. Hike the nature trails and climb the observation tower for picturesque views of the forest. 

Getting Here.  The forest park is located in the suburb of Guaynabo, reachable from San Juan by Uber or Lyft after a 30 minute ride. 

Calle Cerra

Calle Cerra is a gritty street with large murals and graffiti covered walls. The surrounding neighborhood is home to many hostels, restaurants, cafes & bars. The area becomes a center for nightlife on weekends. Hundreds of people gather at in the street and at bars as live music and reggaeton echos throughout the neighborhood. Some of our favorite spots are:

Esquina El Watusi.  This bar is the heart of the nightlife scene in Santurce. Come here to join hundreds of people gathered in the street out front and ordering from the bar. Drinks are strong and inexpensive. 

Machete.  A bustling yet vibey cocktail bar with well priced drinks and a menu of flavorful bites. To drink, try the Vampiro for something smokey or House Daq for something fruity. To eat, order the ceviche and pulpo + fries! 

Botánico.  A spacious cocktail bar with an interior patio decorated in florals. Come here for an escape from the high energy atmosphere of other bars along Calle Cerra. Try the Flora or Mezcal Botanical. 

Identidad.  A James Beard Awarded cocktail bar with a menu of Caribbean flavored cocktails and small plates as well as a seasonal list of contemporary and experimental cocktails. Order the Crocantes de Atun, a raw tuna mixture over crispy rice. We plan to return for their 5-7pm happy hour! 

Pro Tip.  Wear pants and shoes to avoid being turned away at bars.

La Placita

La Placita is a Puerto Rican cultural hub. Its historic market opens each morning to vendors selling locally grown produce like plantains, papaya, ñame and yautía. Elderly locals gather in the surrounding to play dominoes by day. Music fills the plaza each night as locals come to dance Salsa and feast on Puerto Rican cuisine from surrounding restaurants. 

The Produce Market.  Located inside the Plaza de Mercado in the center of the plaza. We used a machete to cut plantains from the bunch, picked out limes to make our own cocktails and selected a ripe papaya for lunch. 

La Tasca del Pescador.  The place to go for seafood! Come here for the whole fried red snapper, squid ink rice & grilled prawns.

Taberna Los Vázquez.  An energetic salsa bar on the corner of La Placita with live music and cheap drinks.

Boronía en la Placita.  A restaurant serving Creole cuisine like mofongo, gumbo and seafood dishes.

El Sabor de Reina.  A Puerto Rican restaurant preparing traditional dishes like stuffed mofongo, fried pork chops, seafood rice dishes and whole fried red snapper. 

Jungle Bird.  A tiki cocktail bar located on a side street of La Placita with a menu featuring tropical cocktails, both classic and contemporary. Try their namesake, Jungle Bird, their version of the Rum Runner or house creation, the Tijuana Surf Rider. 

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Chillo Frito Entero.  A fried red snapper served whole with crispy skin, tender meat and squeezed with lime. It’s usually accompanied by fried plantains like tostones, mofongo or amarillos. 

Mofongo.  Fried plantain mashed with garlic and butter. It’s often served plain or stuffed with an option of seafood. If prepared with bread fruit and yucca, it’s known as trifongo.

Empanadillas.  Puerto Rican style fried empanadas stuffed with a range of fillings like octopus, conch, cod, shrimp, crap and pizza. 

Pinchos.  Grilled meats served on a stick often served at beaches or roadside kiosks. Our favorites are shark and shrimp. 

Mallorca.  A Puerto Rican pasty often shaped like a bun or swirled roll and dusted in powered sugar. Our favorite preparations are pressed with guava with cheese or egg and cheese. 

Coco Frio.  A cold and freshly opened coconut. Drink the coconut water inside then the sweet meat inside. Alternatively, enjoy it with coconut rum to create a tropical cocktail.

Rum.  Puerto Rico is unarguably the rum capital of the Caribbean with several distilleries and local brands served in bars across the island. Order it on the rocks, in a Pina Colada or other tropical cocktail. 

Medalla.  The island’s most popular local beer, recognizable by it’s small golden can. It has a light slightly nutty flavor and is served everywhere. Buy a 6 pack for the beach!

Places to Eat & Drink

From beachfront restaurants to food truck parks and cocktail bars, there is no shortage of great places to stop for a meal or drink in San Juan. Some of our favorites are: 

Cafes & Brunch Spots

Café Comunión.  A coffee shop and breakfast spot. Come for the coffee, open faced sandwiches and fresh sugar glazed donuts

Tostado.  A coffee shop breakfast spot. Come for the coffee, tropical fruit, French toast and egg dishes.

Musa.  A funky brunch spot with egg dishes, French toast and mimosas 

La Coffeetera.  A breakfast spot with dishes like pancakes and egg scrambles. Order the eggs Benedict on a Hawaiian roll or the stuffed avocado. 

Restaurants

La Vergüenza.  A traditional Puerto Rican restaurant serving criollo style dishes with ingredients like plantains, seafood, pork and chicken. It’s a popular spot with locations in San Juan and Old San Juan. 

La Cueva Del Mar.  A Puerto Rican seafood restaurant with a range of dishes like whole fried red snapper, ceviche, creole style shrimp, fish filets and fried plantains. 

Casita de Miramar.  A romantic restaurant serving elevated Puerto Rican cuisine. We dined here one evening on their outdoor porch. For our meal, we enjoyed plantain soup, mini bacalaitos, arroz de montosteo cooked with house made pique, a whole fried red snapper, and for dessert, tres leches made with coquito.

Paulina Escanes Gormandize.  We’ve dined here twice, for bunch and dinner, tasting a range of items across the menu including mallorca with egg, cheese and avocado, corn bread soufflé, tacos and Tiradito (Peruvian sashimi) on a tostada. 

Container Bar.  One of several waterfront restaurants and bars in Cataño nearby the ferry terminal. Try the crab salad arepas and enjoy a medalla. 

Food Truck Parks.  Quite popular across Puerto Rico, our go-tos in San Juan are Tresbé, Lote 23, and Miramar Food Truck Park.

Cocktail Bars & Nightlife 

Kane Rum Bar.  A rum bar in Condado with lux tropical vibes, cocktails and bites. Order a tiki drink like the Zombie, Mai Tai or Painkiller along side light bites like a vegan Hawaiian pizza, tropical ceviche or sesame seared tuna.

Bar La Unidad.  A speakeasy hidden behind an unmarked frosted glass door. The bar is open if the red light is illuminated. Their menu features a range of modern and innovative cocktails organized by spirit type, each served in differing crystal glassware. 

Pinaloca.  A walk-up window in Condado serving Pina coladas in pineapples. 

El Bar Bero.  A barbershop themed bar with barber chairs, mustache art and smokey cocktails.

Places to Stay 

We’ve stayed at a range of places in San Juan including airbnbs like a private room at a hostel and an apartment style inn. 

Casa Santurce Hostel.  A hostel with dorm and private rooms in San Juan’s arts district. It offers affordable rates and near nightly activities. Book Here!

Casa del Caribe Inn.  A small family run hotel in the heart of Condado. It’s large apartment style rooms are perfect for a weekend getaway. Book Here!

Cool Tripper’s Inn.  A boutique hotel near Ocean Park Beach with tiny yet well designed apartments. Book Here!

Getting Around 

On Foot.  The Condado and Ocean Park neighborhoods of San Juan are easily walkable. Be mindful of missing man hole covers on sidewalks. 

Ride Shares.  Uber and Lyft are both available in the San Juan area. They’re great for getting to and from the airport and around town. 

By Scooter.  Scooters are available to rent on the streets of San Juan. There are multiple companies including Skootel, Bird and Kick. 

By Car.  Rent a car to explore the island outside of the San Juan area. We’ve rented with affordable and reputable companies like Ace Rental, Charlie Car Rental, Sixt, Budget and Flagship.  

Location Specifics

Respect the Culture.  Puerto Ricans are very proud of their island, culture and heritage. Please show respect when discussing local issues and topics. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and learn about the culture and island.  

US Territory.  Puerto Rico is a US Territory meaning US Citizens can visit the island without a passport.

Language.  Spanish is the primary language spoken in Puerto Rico. English is widely spoken as a second language. Knowing basic Spanish words and phrases is helpful and beneficial when visiting. 

Currency.  Puerto Rico uses the US Dollar. 

Metric vs Imperial.  Puerto Rico uses a combination of the Metric and Imperial systems. Speed limits are in marked in mph while distances are marked in kilometers. Gasoline is sold by the liter instead of by the gallon. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit and debit card is widely accepted across the island. Cash is preferred by most vendors at markets, kiosks and some businesses. 

Power Outages.  The electrical grid is fragile due to devastation from past natural disasters. While power outages rarely affect tourists, they do happen. It’s a difficult part of life for many Puerto Ricans. 

Tap Water.  Tap water is generally safe for consumption around the island. 

Tropical Weather.  Puerto Rico experiences tropical weather. Carry an umbrella incase of afternoon and evening rain storms. Tropical storms and hurricanes are possible from June through November with September through October being the most active. 

Swimming.  Mind the warning signs and red flags advising about dangerous ocean currents. Pay attention to where others are and are not swimming. 

Sun Protection.  The harsh UV is dangerous in Puerto Rico. Wear sun block when outside, even on cloudy days. 

Insect Repellent.  Mosquitos are prevalent across the island with mosquito borne illnesses on the rise. Wear insect repellant to minimize bites.  

Clothing.  Shorts and tank tops are generally acceptable to wear, keep the swimwear for the beach and plan to change into pants while dining out or visiting local spots. 

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

From the cobblestone streets of Old San Juan to bioluminescent bays, mountain trails and Caribbean islands, discover more of Puerto Rico beyond the capital through these travel guides:

Old San Juan Travel Guide: Historic Streets, Food & Colonial Charm. Wander colorful cobblestone streets lined with colonial architecture, historic forts, local restaurants and centuries of Puerto Rican history.

Eastern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: El Yunque, Bioluminescent Bays & Beaches. Explore Puerto Rico's lush eastern coast through rainforest trails, bioluminescent bays, secluded beaches and outdoor adventures.

Culebra & Vieques Travel Guide: Beaches & Island Adventures.  Escape to Puerto Rico's offshore islands for pristine beaches, snorkeling, wildlife refuges and some of the Caribbean's clearest waters.

Western Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Rincón, Beaches & Surfing. Discover Puerto Rico's surf capital through laid-back beach towns, coastal scenery, marine life and world-class waves.

Southwestern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Cabo Rojo, La Parguera & Beyond. Experience salt flats, mangrove channels, bioluminescent waters, coastal cliffs and some of Puerto Rico's most unique landscapes.

Central Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Mountains, Hiking & Taino Sites.  Journey through Puerto Rico's mountainous interior to discover cloud forests, hiking trails, coffee farms and Indigenous heritage.

Ponce Puerto Rico Travel Guide: History, Architecture & Local Culture.  Explore Puerto Rico's second city through grand architecture, local museums, historic plazas and a distinctly southern cultural identity.