Zanzibar Travel Guide: Stone Town, Beaches & Swahili Culture

Zanzibar, Tanzania

Zanzibar is an exotic island off the coast of mainland Tanzania in the Indian Ocean. It’s famed for its white sand beaches, turquoise waters and historic spice trade. History lives on in the narrow alleyways, markets and cultural sights of Stone Town. Maasai tribesmen sell beaded accessories and perform cultural dances. Swahili phrases like Hakuna Matata (no worries) and Pole Pole (slowly slowly) are the local way of life. We spent a week on the island, splitting out time between Stone Town and the beach towns of Kendwa and Nungwi. 

Stone Town

Stone Town is the historic district of Zanzibar City. Its narrow streets and winding alleyways meander between landmark buildings, former sultanate palaces and crumbling ruins. Stained glass windows, wooden balconies and ornately carved doors decorate their tan facades. Tropical plants and palm trees grow from small gardens and roadsides. Stray cats roam freely, often patrolling unoccupied stoops. Local merchants sell jewelry, spices, ebony artifacts, safari style paintings and beaded decorations. It’s a small district but easy to get lost in, making its narrow walkways even more enchanting. 

Stone Town Historical Sights 

The Old Fort.  An Arab style fort built to defend Zanzibar during the sultanate’s rule. Its sand colored walls, curved facade and rounded battlements are characteristic of historic forts built in Oman. The inside of the fort hosts an outdoor amphitheater with regular musical performances as well as a couple dozen craft and souvenir shops. A tourist offices advertise well priced tours, transfers and cooking classes. 

Slave Market Museum.  Stone Town was one of the main port cities used during the East African Slave Trade. The town’s former slave market was a sight of horrors. A museum recounts the history of the slave trade from its Portuguese colonial beginnings to expansion by the Omani sultanate and eventual abolition by the British. A church was built over the location of the slave market. Its wiping post and two former cells remain as a reminder of the period’s atrocities. Outside of the church is a sobering monument of enslaved Africans with iron chains around their necks. 

Good to Know.  The museum requires a guide to enter. One can be hired at the gate outside of the museum for a gratuity. Our guide shared in depth information of the history of the slave trade in Stone Town and the market’s horrific history. 

The Royal Cemetery.  A cemetery and museum dedicated to the generations of sultans that ruled Zanzibar until the island’s independence. A museum curator led us through the small exhibit, recounting the history and lineage of the sultans. We visited the cemetery where most of the them and their descendants are buried. Each grave sight is simple, a white plate red rectangle surrounds each gravel covered plot.

Good to Know.  Both of the neighboring sultan’s palaces, The People’s Palace and House of Wonders were closed for renovations.  

The Old Dispensary.  One of Stone Town’s best preserved historic buildings. Its ornate facade is decorated in three levels of intricately carved wooden balconies. Its teal color and location along the waterfront allow it to stand out.  

Stone Town Coastal Sights 

Stone Town Waterfront & Harbor.  The waterfront of Stone Town is lined with historic buildings, palm lined walkways and a harbor dotted with anchored tour and fishing boats. 

Forodhani Park.  A lush waterfront park with a palm lined walkways, flowering trees and views of Stone Town’s harbor. Locals guides advertise walking tours while boat captains offer day trips to neighboring islands. Small kiosks offer light bites and drinks while the park comes to life at night for an evening street food market. 

Shangani Public Beach.  A yellow sand beach hooking around the western tip of Stone Town. It’s popular for sunsets, boat tours and to watch locals play beach football. Multiple luxury hotels have restaurants and pools looking out over the beach.

Prison Island.  A small island off the coast of Zanzibar famed for its Aldabra Tortoise Sanctuary and historic ruins. The giant and slow moving tortoises roam in large pens. They range from two weeks to over two centuries old! Their shells are marked with red and blue numbers noting their age and gender. Vibrant peacocks strut around the island’s trails. The bright blue surrounding water are home to clusters of spiky sea urchins and colorful starfish. The island is named after a prison built by the Omani sultans and later used as a quarantine camp by the British. The prison is now used as a historical exhibit for Zanzibar with shops, a restaurant and bar. 

Getting Here.  Boat captains leave from the beach in front of the Zanzibar Ferry Terminal. They charge $20 for a private boat and round trip transfer to Prison Island. The boat ride takes about 20 minutes.

Entrance Fees.  There is a small port fee of a few dollars and separate entrance fee to visit the tortoise sanctuary. 

The Island Of Spice 

Zanzibar is known as The Island of Spice. Its long history of spice cultivation has influenced the island’s culture, identity and cuisine. Spice permeates throughout the flavors and aromas of local cuisine, coffees and markets. One of the best ways to experience the spices are at the source, spice farms. 

Kizimbani Spice Farm.  A spice farm offering a glimpse into the wide array of spices and fruits grown on Zanzibar. A guide led us through gardens with flowers, fruits, plants and vines used to produce different spices like cardamom, peppercorn, clove, lemongrass, nutmeg, ginger, turmeric, galangal, cocoa, cinnamon (bark and root), vanilla and curry leaf. A spice hunter followed us, climbing trees, picking leaves and digging up roots to harvest raw spices as examples. At the end of the tour, we were adorned in palm leaf woven bracelets, neck ties and hats. Roadside vendors sell packets of ground spices, tea and coffee as well as soaps, perfumes and oils. Visit a fruit stand to taste a cornucopia of fruits grown on the island including grapefruit, orange, cucumber, passion fruit, avocado, mango, jackfruit, watermelon, papaya, pineapple and starfruit.

Getting Here.  Hire a driver along the promenade for $30 USD round trip. No reservation is needed ahead of time. You’ll be paired with a guide and spice picker for free at the farm. The tour is free however guides operate on tips. 

Shop the Markets & Bazaars 

Darajani Bazaar.  A small but robust market under covered alleyways and historic sheds. Merchants sell colorful packages of ground spices, spice blends, vanilla beans, teas and coffees. Vendors display piles of tropical fruits, fresh vegetables and leafy greens on tables. Butchers prepare cuts of meat while fish mongers filet the morning’s catch. Shop keepers sell traditional woven baskets. Women bake stacks of aromatic flatbreads on a charcoal burning skillets. We purchased groceries for the week in addition to a refreshed supply is spices, coffees and teas. 

Pro Tip.  Visit in the mid morning. Prices are fare but like with all markets, haggle and negotiate for a better deal. 

Forodhani Night Food Market.  A nightly food market held in Forodhani Park. Charismatic chefs lure in customers with their persistence and genuinely tasty street food. Tables are covered in skewers of meat, seafood, starchy vegetables and flatbreads, all cooked over charcoal grills. Some chefs prepare local specialties like Urogo and Zanzibar Pizza. Juice vendors press sugarcane and ginger into a sweet blend. Shawarma carts broil and shave vertical rotisseries of meat. We came here for dinner two nights, filling up on a variety of street food. 

• Urojo.  A Tanzanian street food soup made with a savory and sweet blend of spices, potatoes, crispy fried chickpea fritters and cassava shavings. It’s usually vegetarian by default.

• Zanzibar Pizza.  A thin dough wrapped around a variety of savory or sweet fillings and griddled like a pancake until cooked. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Zanzibar Coffee House.  A hotel cafe with spiced local specialties. Come here for their spice coffee made with Zanzibar spices, muesli with nuts and dates or pastries like cinnamon raisin rolls and date squares. 

Out of Afrika.  A touristy yet vibey restaurant along Stone Town’s waterfront promenade with a second floor balcony. The menu offers seafood and fruit dishes like watermelon gazpacho, pumpkin soups with coconut and the grilled sesame-crusted tuna salad. Try the Swahili cocktails like the Zanzibar spice punch or coriander and chili margarita 

Secret Garden.  A cocktail bar and restaurant in the open air ruins of a historic Stone Town building. Crumbling plastered walls are covered in plants and vines. Potted palm trees spaced between tables and chairs in front of a stage. Come here for the live music and hibiscus cocktails! 

Mama Mia Gelato Italiano.  A small gelato chain local to Zanzibar with classic and tropical flavors. They the cinnamon, vanilla and coconut.  

Beach House Restaurant & Bar.  A beautiful beach from restaurant with a large outdoor patio overlooking the Indian Ocean. Come here for sunset cocktails and live music. 

Kendwa & Nungwi

Kendwa & Nungwi are two beach towns on the northern tip of Zanzibar. They’re popular destinations with lengthy white sand beaches, swimmable turquoise waters and beachfront resorts. Restaurants serve Swahili cuisine and seafood dishes paired with local beers. Galleries and shops sell Maasai textiles, beaded jewelry, paintings and ebony figurines. Tour operators provide snorkeling excursions and sunset dhow boat cruises. 

Kendwa Beach.  Kendwa Beach is one of the prettiest beaches on Zanzibar! Its wide white sand shore meets the calming turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean. Several beachfront resorts and restaurants offer umbrellas and beach lounges to paying customers. Maasai tribesmen walk the beach, selling beaded jewelry, posing for photos and saying Jambo (hello) to passersby. 

Kendwa Beach Gallery.  Kendwa Beach connects to Nungwi Beach during low tide. The rock cliffs between become an art gallery with hundreds of animal and Massai paintings. 

Nungwi Beach.  One of Zanzibar’s largest and most commercial beaches. Its white sand shore is lined with swimming areas, resorts, restaurants, souvenir shops and tour operators. The coast wraps around the island’s northern point making it perfect for long walks on the beach.

Good to Know. Beach vendors can be more aggressive in Nungwi than in Kendwa. 

Coastal Excursions 

Mnemba Atoll Snorkel Tour.  The Mnemba Atoll is coastal formation with shallow sandbars, coral reefs and a singular private island. Its aquamarine waters are home to starfish, dolphins and tropical fish. Speed boats ferry passengers from Nungwi to the atoll, stopping to spot dolphins along the way. A small pod porpoised above the water as snorkelers jumping in to swim along. 

Mnemba Atoll Sand Bar.  During low tide, large sandbars form around the Mnemba Atoll’s perimeter. Hundreds of boats moor in the shallows as sunbathers relax and walk along on the temporary white sand beaches. Small reefs offer places to snorkel and spot tropical fish, the occasional starfish, swaying anemone and seagrasses. We booked ahead of time online with Langentours on Get Your Guide. The tour can be booked cheaper in person from any of the beach vendors. 

Good to Know.  Please do not remove the starfish from the water or touch them. It will seriously harm them. 

Nungwi Sunset Dhow Cruise.  Dhow boats are a traditional sailing vessel used by Zanzibar’s fishermen and spice merchants. The wooden ships are characterized by their triangular canvas sail hoisted from a singular mast. They have become a quintessential part of island’s cultural identity and heritage. Captains offer nightly sunset cruises from Nungwi and Kendwa on these unique ships. Joined by the crew, a live band and other passengers, we sailed the coastal waters for over 2 hours. The band sang in Swahili and performed using makeshift instruments during the voyage. The crew prepared fresh fruits, mixed cocktails and sold beverages and snacks. We booked ahead of time online with Uforo Tour and Travel on Get Your Guide. The tour can be booked cheaper in person from any of the beach vendors. 

Pro Tip.  Bring a sweater or jacket if it’s a cloudy day. It can get chilly onboard. 

Places to Eat & Drink

ZaVa Nungwi.  A smaller beachfront restaurant with local dishes, beach lounges and happy hour cocktails. We came here for afternoon beers overlooking the Indian Ocean then returned for dinner and happy hour. Try whole grilled white snapper, fish burger and Dawa cocktail. 

Sunset Kendwa.  A popular beach front restaurant and resort at Kendwa Beach. We stopped in for their daily happy hour, sipping on $6 cocktails. 

Mococo Beach Villa.  A quiet beachfront restaurant with beach lounges under thatched umbrellas and palm trees. Come here for coffees, cocktails and light bites. 

Zanzibar Cuisine 

Seafood.  Fresh caught fish is a common aspect of the cuisine on Zanzibar. A popular preparation is a whole fish grilled or fried. 

Pilau.  A hearty and flavorful “one pot” rice dish made with aromatic spices, onions, tomatoes, potatoes and a protein like beef, chicken or soy. 

Sambusa.  A common street food snack across Zanzibar brought over by Indian influences. The dough packets are stuffed with spices, potatoes and peas.

Curry.  A common spice used to make savory stews and dishes made with meat, seafood or vegetables. 

Chapati.  A type of roti used to scoop stews and curries by hand. 

Kachumbari.  A salad made with chopped tomatoes, red onions and chili peppers. 

Sugar Cane.  Sugar cane is grown across the island. Street food vendors press it into juice or chop it into bite size pieces. Try it press with gineger!

Dawa.  A commonly served local cocktail made with konyagi, lime juice, honey and tonic water. 

Where to Stay

Lofihouse.  A small and simple apartment with two private rooms in Stone Town’s historic center. Its has a communal kitchen and laundry machine for guests. Reserve on Booking.

Kendwa Bungalow.  A cute bungalow on a semi secluded property in Kendwa. It has a shared kitchen, outdoor dining room and private suite. It’s located about 15 minutes in foot from the beach. Book on Airbnb. 

Location Specifics

Mandatory Inbound Travel Insurance.  The semi autonomous government of Zanzibar requires all foreign visitors or purchase state sponsored travel insurance. This is regardless of any private travel insurance you may have while visiting the island. It’s a classic scam but they won’t let you enter without it. Purchase on the official government site, Visit Zanzibar, before of when arriving. 

Tours & Activities.  Book tours and activities in person and negotiate with local guides for the best prices. Guides frequently approach visitors offering a range of experiences including island tours, spice farm tours, walking tours and taxis. The tourist office at the Old Fort advertises well priced tours, transfers and cooking classes. 

When to Visit.  We visited in mid August, during Zanzibar’s peak season, coinciding with the dry season. The time of year is typically sunny and warm, with temperatures around 80F by day and 70F by night. Strangely, it was overcast most days with light rain in Nungwi and Kendwa after 11am.

Cash vs Card.  Carry cash! Most businesses only accept cash, either Tanzanian Shillings or US Dollars. No one will accept US Dollars over 10 years old or with tears and writing on them. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Tanzanian laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Language.  English, Italian and Swahili are commonly spoken by many people in Zanzibar. 

Swahili Words & Phrases 

Swahili is the local language in Zanzibar. We learned several basic words and phrases during our travels here. 

• Jambo. A formal greeting meaning hello. 

• Mambo.  An informal greeting meaning hello or how are you?

• Poa or Poa Poa. A common response to Mambo, meaning good or well. 

• Habari Asubuhi.Good morning. 

• Lala Salama.  Good night or sleep well.

• Kwa Heri.  Goodbye. 

• Asante.  Thank you. 

• Asante Sana.  Thank you very much. 

• Karibu.  Welcome or you’re welcome.

• Hakuna Matata.  The phrase made world famous by the Lion King. It’s a real Swahili phrase meaning no worries or no problems.

• Pole Pole.  A phrase meaning “slowly, slowly” or slow down. It’s a common expression on the island. 

Getting Around 

On Foot.  The historic center of Stone Town is very walkable and easily the best way to see the city’s sights and experience its culture. Plan to wander the maze-like streets and get lost.  

By Taxi.  Hire a taxi driver from Stone Town to Kendwa or Nungwi. Drivers wait along the Mizingani Road promenade. The transfer takes about 1 hour 30 minutes. Don’t pay more than $40 USD. 

Tuk Tuk.  The small three wheeled vehicles are a popular way of covering short distances in Stone Town and between Kendwa and Nungwi. Prices are cheap, costing no more than 10K shillings ($4 USD).

Elsewhere in Tanzania 

From Zanzibar's beaches and Swahili heritage to the wildlife rich plains of the Serengeti and the heights of Mount Kilimanjaro, continue exploring Tanzania's diverse landscapes and cultures through these travel guides:

Tanzania Safari Guide: Serengeti, Ngorongoro & Wilderness Camping.  Experience Tanzania's legendary safari landscapes through the Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater, wildlife encounters and unforgettable wilderness camping.

Mount Kilimanjaro Guide: Lemosho Route, Mountain Camping & Uhuru Peak.  Challenge yourself on Africa's highest mountain through the scenic Lemosho Route, alpine camps and the journey to Uhuru Peak.

For Next Time…

One week in Zanzibar was not nearly enough time to enjoy this Indian Ocean paradise. When we return, we plan to explore the forests in the island’s interior and other nearby islands. 

Jozani Forest.  A tropical forest in the south of the island with rainforest, mangroves and coastal ecosystems. It’s home to chameleons, dolphins and colobus monkeys. 

Pemba Island.  A large island apart of the Zanzibar archipelago. It’s famed for its coral reefs, abundant marine life, white sand beaches, tropical forests and spice farms. 

Mount Kilimanjaro Guide: Lemosho Route, Mountain Camping & Uhuru Peak

Summiting Africa’s Highest Point

Mount Kilimanjaro is Africa’s tallest mountain and one of the world’s Seven Summits. The highest point, Uhuru Peak, tops out at 5,895 meters or 19,341 feet above sea level. While difficult to hike, it’s considered a “walking mountain,” as it doesn’t require specialized equipment or experience to summit. We spent 7 days hiking the Lemosho Route, a scenic route with a higher success rate than others. 

The Lemosho Route 

The Lemosho Route is a multi-day trek to the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro. It’s very scenic, leading through picturesque landscapes and all of the mountain’s climate zones. The summit becomes visibly closer each day of the hike, offering rewarding views. The Lemosho Route is best for slowly acclimating to the increases in altitude. It takes 8 days but can be completed in 6 or 7 days, depending on speed and acclimatization. The route has an elevation gain of 3,795 meters (12,450 feet) to reach the summit. It covers a distance of 48km (30 miles) to the Uhuru Peak. 

Preparation

The day prior to beginning our Mount Kilimanjaro hike gave us time to prepare for the adventure of a lifetime. We were introduced to our guide who briefed us on the week ahead and inspected our gear. He brought us to RRM Outdoor Rental Equipment Stores to rent all missing gear needed for the hike. Afterwards, we went shopping for snacks at the Rafiki Supermarket and purchased Diamox from the Mount Kibo Pharmacy. We spent the evening relaxing at our hotel and sipping on a Kilimanjaro Lager as a toast to the upcoming trek!

Note. Read further below for detailed hiking tips, our packing list, estimated costs and tipping procedures.

Day One

Introductions.  The first day of our hike to the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro began with an introduction to the crew that would be accompanying and supporting us over the week ahead. Our guide introduced us to the assistant guide, the cook and team of 10 porters! They sang the Kilimanjaro Song, Jambo Bwana, to warmly welcome us. We later heard it countless times at camps and along the trail to the summit. 

Lemosho Gate.  The crew shuttled us to the Lemosho Gate for the official start of our hike. In route, we passed through The Cultivation Zone, one of five climate zones on the mountain, characterized by hilly fields of hardy crops and pine trees. The gate marks the start of the Lemosho Route, beginning at an elevation of 2,100 meters (6,890 feet). The first 7km leads through the Vegetation Zone to the Mti Mkubwa Camp. 

The Vegetation Zone.  The Vegetation Zone is the second of five climate zones on the mountain. We hiked two hours through its verdant cloud forest and foggy pathways to reach the route’s first camp.

Mti Mkubwa Camp.  A small forest clearing surrounded by dense trees inhabited by wild monkeys. It sits at a relatively low elevation of 2,650 meters (8,695 feet). We met our crew here for our first night on the mountain. They set up our tent and outfitted it with a small dining nook stocked with teas, coffee, spreads and snacks. The cook served us the first of many feasts to come. The meal included cucumber soup, avocado salad, fried potatoes and fish makange. We played cards before bed, waking up in the middle of the night to see the starry arms of the Milky Way stretching across the sky.  

Day Two

An Early Start.  The day began with an early start before the sunrise. The crew prepared “bed tea,” hot water for washing and a breakfast spread comprised of porridge, crepes, omelettes and toast. Soon after, we continued our hike through the Vegetation Zone, passing moss covered trees with colobus monkeys jumping between their branches.

The Moorland Zone.  The trail led into, The Moorland Zone, the third of five climate zones on the mountain. It’s characterized by low lying bushes, dry grasses, flowering plants and small boulders. The open and dusty trail revealed scenic panoramas of the landscape and distant views of Kilimanjaro’s snow capped peak. We hiked 7km over 4 hours until reaching the Shira 1 Camp. 

Shira 1 Camp.  The first camp on the Shira Plateau, a relatively flat expanse of The Moorland Zone. The camp sits at a moderate elevation of 3,610 meters (11,844 feet). We arrived as the porters finished setting up our tent. Others arrived with large sacs balanced on their heads and packs slung over the shoulders. Ravens flew around us as we enjoyed the scenic views and ate vegetable pasta for lunch. 

Back On the Trail.  With plenty of energy and daylight left, we continued hiking across The Moorland Zone. The dusty trail lead us 10km further across the Shira Plateau to the Shira 2 Camp. We arrived a day ahead of schedule, having trekked 17km over the course of the day. Mount Kilimanjaro’s icy peak grew noticeably closer. 

Shira 2 Camp.  A camp at the opposite end of the Shira Plateau at an elevation of 3,850 meters (12,631 feet). Colorful tents stood between boulders and bushes, rattled by strong winds of the open terrain. The sunset cast an amber glow across the landscape as the cold of night set in. We hunkered down inside of our tent, resting and waiting for dinner. The cook served us leek soup, coconut milk stewed beans and rice. We celebrated the success of the day with a packet of m&ms. 

Medical Evaluations.  With the increased elevation, our guides began performing nightly medical evaluations. They checked our heart rate, blood oxygen levels and general wellbeing. 

Day Three

A Rough Night.  No one slept well during the previous night. The cold and wind kept us and our crew awake more than half of the evening. The warmth of the sun rose spread across the Shira Plateau, melting the frost as we began day three. 

The Alpine Desert Zone.  The trail lead higher in elevation to The Alpine Desert Zone, the fourth of five climate zones on the mountain. The terrain was dry, rocky and barren with little to no vegetation. We spotted a tiny Four Striped Grass Mouse scurrying between the rocks. The temperate became colder and the air noticeably thinner. The trail lead steeply uphill to The Lava Tower.

The Lava Tower.  A jagged geological formation created by hardened lava that cooled inside a now eroded volcanic vent. At 4,600 meters (15,092 feet), it’s a key feature along the Lemosho Route and a high altitude campsite. Getting here was difficult due to the increased elevation, though necessary for acclimating.

A Temporary Descent.  The trail led us on a temporary descent from The Lava Tower, through The Alpine Desert and back into The Moorland. The path followed a partially frozen stream, past small waterfalls and into progressively lusher terrain. Colorful lichens covered boulders, green bushes sprouted from the hillside and flowers added color to the landscape. A grove of Giant Groundsels, grew from the riverside. They’re alien-like trees with a central trunk and bushy arms topped with green leafy flourish. 

Baranco Camp.  The trail led to the Baranco Camp, situated at an elevation of 3,900 meters (12,795 feet). It’s one of the largest camps on the mountain and a meeting point for multiple routes. A nomadic village of colorful tents, enthusiastic crews and optimistic hikers sprawl across the landscape. A sea of clouds parted to reveal the town of Moshi 3,200 meters (10,500 feet) below. We rested during the afternoon before dinner. The cook prepared Ndzi, a Tanzanian vegetable stew with plantains, sweet potato, green beans and onions served alongside Chapatti, an East African flatbread.

Day Four

The Baranco Wall.  The trail begins with a hike up the Baranco Wall, a steep rocky ridge just beyond the Baranco Camp. Hikers and their crews scale its 257 meter (843 feet) tall face. While steep, it doesn’t require any specialty equipment, only care and patience. The top of the wall has panoramic views of Mount Kilimanjaro’s ice capped summit, the cloud covered lowlands and distant silhouette of the Meru Volcano. The trail continues 6km further through a series of scenic valleys to The Karanga Camp. 

The Karanga Camp.  The final camp before Mount Kilimanjaro’s Base Camp. It resides at 3,995 meters (13,107 feet), similar in elevation to the past two camps. Us and our crew reached the camp by the early afternoon. We walked up the camp’s ridge to help with further with the acclimatization. The exposed location down slope from the glacial summit makes the camp cold, especially at nighttime. 

Pro Tip.  Stuff tomorrow’s clothes inside your sleeping bag at night to warm up before changing in the morning. Thanks mom! 

Day Five

The Hike to Base Camp.  Day 5 began with our assent to The Barafu Camp, Mount Kilimanjaro’s Base Camp. We hiked 4km across the dry and aired terrain of The Alpine Desert. Slate rocks creaked like broken pottery beneath our feet. The snow covered peak of Mount Kilimanjaro towered ahead. We reached the camp four hours later.

Barafu Camp.  Barafu translates to “Ice” in Swahili. It’s a cold place, located at an elevation of 4,673 meters (15,331 feet). Tents covered the rugged mountain side. We sat outside of ours, peering across the mountain’s saddle towards the jagged Mawenzi Peak, the third highest in Africa. The cook prepared vegetable soup, fried fish and savory potato pastries stuffed with veggies for lunch. We spent the remainder of the afternoon and evening relaxing and acclimating. 

Day Six

Midnight Hike to The Summit.  The hike to the summit began at midnight. Our guides led us uphill along steep winding trails through the dark of night. Rocks, dust and fine gravel crunched beneath our feet. The stars spanned the night sky, twinkling brightly overhead. Ice and snow banks appeared the further we hiked. Guide erupted into spontaneous songs offering encouragement to those along the trail. 

The Arctic Zone.  The trek to the summit brought us into The Arctic Zone, the fifth of five climate zones on the mountain. It’s characterized by subzero temperatures, snow covered terrain and icy glaciers. 

Stella Point.  Daylight began to break 6 hours into our hike. The scarlet hued sunrise cast a warm glow over the cold and barren landscape. It was at the same time that we reached Stella Point, a lower peak below the main summit. It stands at 5,756 meters (18,885 feet). 

The Trail to the Summit.  The trail continued one hour past Stella Point. Though relatively flat, the distance in between was the treacherous for many hikers suffering altitude sickness. Black lava rocks and glossy obsidian contrasted the white Arctic landscape. Icy pinnacles flanked the trail, glaciers hugged the slopes and snow blanketed the crater. 

Uhuru Peak.  Mount Kilimanjaro is Africa’s tallest mountain and one of the World’s Seven Summits. The highest point, tops out at 5,895 meters (19,341 feet) above sea level. After days of hiking, a congratulatory sign welcomed us to the summit! it was an overwhelming experience to reach. Tears were indeed shed. We celebrated with frozen candy bars and hot ginger tea. The mountain was surrounded by a sea of puffy white clouds. The shadow of Mount Kilimanjaro cast across them. 

The Rapid Descent.  The guides limited us to 15 minutes at the summit due to the harsh environmental conditions. The rapid descent to the base camp took 3 hours. We napped and ate lunch before descending further into the Moorland Zone. The trail lead to the High Camp, located at 3,950 meters (12,960 feet), one hour and a half later. It was the perfect rest area but not our final camp. The descent continued into the Vegetation Zone. Porters passed us in both directions as we followed the rocky path to the Mweka Camp, located at an elevation of 3,100 meters (10,171 feet). We spent our last night camping on the mountain here. 

Day Seven

Crew Appreciation.  The final day began with a goodbye to our mountain crew. We met them after breakfast to express our gratitude and to distribute tips. 

The Rainforest Hike.  The last leg of our journey led us through the rainforest. Our guide led us along the muddy and slippery trail through the foggy forest. Moss covered trees, giant ferns and tiny orchids flanked the path. Monkeys hopped between tree branches as birds squawked in the canopy. It took 3 hours to reach the park gate. 

Certificates & Celebration.  Park rangers verified our successful hike to the summit and awarded us certificates recognizing the achievement. Our crew brought us back to our hotel in Moshi and presented them to us while singing the Kilimanjaro song, Jambo Bwana. We spent the afternoon relaxing and celebrating with a bottle of South African bubbly while overlooking the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro. 

Moshi, Tanzania

Moshi is a town at the base of Mount Kilimanjaro and starting point for many multi-day hikes up the mountain. The town is home to tour operators, gear outfitters, pharmacies, grocery stores and hotels making it easy location for last minute gear and needs. 

Rede Tours & Safaris.  A well reviewed tour operator offering multi-day hiking trips to the summit Mount Kilimanjaro. We booked the Unforgettable 8 Days Lemosho Route Trekking on Kilimanjaro with them prior to arriving in Moshi. They arranged every aspect of our hike including guides, porters, a cook and supplies. 

Rafiki Supermarket.  A chain grocery store with aisles of snacks and drinks. Come here to stock up on granola, dates, chocolates and chips prior to hiking. 

RRM Outdoor Rental Equipment Store.  An outdoor outfitter with all rental gear needed to hike Mount Kilimanjaro. We rented several items needed to complete the hike at the recommendation of our guide. Cost can quickly add up so be sure you actually need everything being recommended. 

Mount Kibo Pharmacy.  One of the largest pharmacies in Moshi. They sell Diamox, a medication used to cope with AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) also known as altitude sickness. No prescription is needed and a weak supply costs less than $1. 

Where to Stay

The Belle View Inn Bed and Breakfast.  A small hotel with comfortable rooms, daily breakfast, luggage storage and transportation between the airport. We stayed here before and after our hike to Mount Kilimanjaro. On a clear day, the peak of the mountain is visible from their second floor breakfast hut! Reserve on Booking.

Places to Eat & Drink 

Having some time in Moshi before and after our hike to the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro, we dined out at a couple local restaurants and a coffee house. 

Maembe Garden.  An elevated restaurant with Swahili cuisine and well made cocktails. We came here to celebrate after summiting Mount Kilimanjaro. Try the veggies samosas and fish makange. To drink, order a Dawa, the local cocktail made with vodka, honey, lime and sugar. 

Aikama Organic Restaurant.  A restaurant in a commercial shopping center with Tanzanian and Swahili food. We each ordered the Fish Makange, a whole fried fish covered in a mixture of sautéed bell peppers and onions. It’s typically served with cardamom rice. 

SSOH Coffee Factory.  A cafe and roastery with house roasted Tanzanian coffee and artisanal madeleines.

Hiking Tips & Preparation 

Hiking Mt. Kilimanjaro requires little preparation outside of practice hikes and acquiring the correct gear. We came up with several tips to follow while on the mountain. 

Practice Hikes.  Practice half to full day hikes on weekends with some steep inclines at least one month prior to condition yourself. 

Support Network.  Hike the mountain with a group or someone you know. Having a support network while hiking goes a long way. Guides are also great hype-men along the way!

Stay Positive.  Believe in yourself and stay positive! Celebrate milestones with little rewards like the eating a chocolate when you reach the next camp or rest area. 

Stay Hydrated.  Dehydration is the largest concern when hiking. Bring or rent an CamelBak with capacity for 3 liters of water per day. Have guides refill them before hiking for the day. Drink ginger tea to open the airways. Avoid drinking alcohol. 

Pace Yourself.  The altitude and exhaustion can quickly added up. Hike a longer route, like the Lemosho Route, to spend more time acclimating to the high altitude. 

Dress Warm.  Temperatures at night and especially at the summit are below freezing. Plan to add layers the further you ascend and strip them off as you descend. 

Extreme UV.  Prepare for extreme UV radiation at high elevations. Wear sunblock during the day, protective lip balm and UV reflective sunglasses. 

Nighttime Noise.  The noise of the wind is enough to keep you up at night. Being ear plugs or noise canceling headphones to drown out sounds. 

Best Time of Year.  Hike during the dry season for the least chance of rain, snow and muddy trails. It’s colder during this time of year but is often the best time to hike Mt Kilimanjaro. The dry season lasts from July to October. We hiked in late July. 

Hygiene.  Basic squatting toilets are available at each campsite. Bring your own toilet paper and hand sanitizer. Guides often provide hot water and soap before meals. Some even offer scented hot towels. 

Cell Service. There is minimal cell service or network on the mountain. Plan to disconnect or use limited service to keep family and friends updated. 

Electricity.  There is no electricity on the mountain. Bring a high capacity power bank to keep devices charged. Keep phones on airplane and low power mode to conserve battery. Store phones and power banks in a warm location. 

Packing List 

Clothing 

• Thermal leggings or underwear 

• Thermal long sleeve shirts 

• Waterproof rain jacket & rain pants 

• Insulated winter coat 

• Insulated snow pants 

• Winter hat, gloves & scarf

• Wool sweaters 

• Thermal socks 

Gear 

• Hiking boots 

• Pair of hiking poles 

• Gators (to cover ankles from dust) 

• Headlamp & extra batteries 

• High capacity power bank

• Sunglasses 

• Sunblock 

• Lip balm with SPF

• CamelBak for water 

• Thermal water bottle for hot drinks 

• Hand and toe warmers 

• Toilet paper 

• Hand sanitizer

• Facial wipes 

• Diamox (altitude sickness medication) 

• Insulated sleeping bag 

• Backpack or Daypack 

• Pillow or neck cushion for sleeping 

• Hiking mattress(typically included) 

• Tent (typically included) 

Snacks 

• Trail mix or granola 

• Chocolates (m&ms & candy bar)

• Dried ginger candies 

• Peppermint hard candies 

• Ginger tea 

Costs & Tipping 

Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro is expensive! Costs are not always clear when booking tours. Make sure to understand all costs and fees ahead of time. 

Costs & Fees.  We booked a “budget” hike for $1,500 USD per person. This covered entry permits, food and some equipment. An additional $700 USD per person was paid in person to cover crew wages. 

Tipping.  Providing gratuities is a standard practice and expected after hiking Mount Kilimanjaro. Below is a breakdown of the expected amounts to pay per group. Individual tips will be less depending on group size, crew size and number of days hiking. Tips are given to the lead guide, announced and distributed on the last day of the hike. 

• Lead Guides:  $20-$25 per day 

• Assistant Guides:  $15-$20 per day 

• Cooks:  $10-$20 per day 

• Porters:  $8-$10 per day

• Specialty Porters (Waiter, Summit Porter, Toilet Porter): $10-$12 per day

Swahili Words & Phrases 

Swahili is the local language in Tanzania. We learned several basic words and phrases from our guides and porters while hiking Mount Kilimanjaro.  

• Pole Pole.  Slowly slowly or take it easy. It’s the speed and theme on the mountain often repeated by guides, porters and trekkers. 

• Hakuna Matata.  The phrase made world famous by the Lion King. It’s a real Swahili phrase meaning no worries or no problems. It’s often used to let guides know you’re doing okay. 

• Jambo. A formal greeting meaning hello. 

• Mambo.  An informal greeting meaning hello or how are you?

• Poa or Poa Poa. A common response to Mambo, meaning good or well. 

• Habari Asubuhi.Good morning. 

• Lala Salama.  Good night or sleep well.

• Kwa Heri.  Goodbye. 

• Asante.  Thank you. 

• Asante Sana.  Thank you very much. 

• Karibu.  Welcome or you’re welcome.

Elsewhere in Tanzania 

From the slopes of Kilimanjaro to the wildlife of the Serengeti and the historic shores of Zanzibar, discover more of Tanzania's most iconic experiences through these travel guides:

Tanzania Safari Guide: Serengeti, Ngorongoro & Wilderness Camping.  Experience Tanzania's legendary safari landscapes through the Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater, wildlife encounters and unforgettable wilderness camping.

Zanzibar Travel Guide: Stone Town, Beaches & Swahili Culture.  Discover Zanzibar through historic Stone Town, white sand beaches, turquoise waters and the rich traditions of Swahili culture.

For Next Time…

Though we don’t expect to hike Mount Kilimanjaro again, we learned about Tanzania’s Mt. Meru, another hike-able volcano in the Arusha National Park. It’s the country’s second tallest mountain, after Mount Kilimanjaro. Its summit reaches heights of 4,566 meters (14,980 feet). It can be hiked in 3-4 days. The route combines elements of a safari with bush camping and mountain hiking. 

Tanzania Safari Guide: Serengeti, Ngorongoro & Wilderness Camping

Tanzanian Safari

Tanzania is the land of safaris and African adventures! Its vast nature reserves and national parks are home to scenic landscapes teeming with wildlife, herds of animals and endangered species. We spent four days roadtripping on a safari across the country visiting Tarangire National Park, The Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater. 

Tarangire National Park 

Tarangire National Park is a popular safari park home to parades of African elephants and ancient baobab trees. We joined a half day game drive through the park on the first day of our safari. 

Tarangire Landscapes.  Dusty roads lead through the scenic landscapes of Tarangire National Park. The terrain is defined by massive baobab trees, umbrella shaped acacia trees, dry grasslands and towering termite mounds. The baobab trees are easily recognizable by their massive trunks and large branching limbs. Some live to be several hundred years old.

Wild Animals.  The Tarangire is plentiful with African animals and wildlife. Small herds of wildebeests, zebra and giraffes gathered together to feed on trees and grasses. A pair of cape buffalo raised their heads from the bush, showing off their massive horns. Warthogs kneeled in the savanna, nibbling on dry grasses as they scurried around. Hornbill toucans and vibrant starlings hopped between tree branches and fluttered away. Waterback antelopes gazed back at us through our binoculars. Baboons and mischievous monkeys sat along roadsides and picnic areas waiting for opportunities to steal food. 

African Elephants.  Large parades of African elephants roam freely around the Tarangire. Soon after entering the park, we spotted over 20 elephants pulling down branches from acacia trees and feeding on grasses. We spotted a second herd marching through a valley. Tiny infants walked slowly alongside parents with lengthy tusks as one. They later crossed a river as we watched from a picnic area at lunch. We parked along the dirt road as a third parade crossed in front of us. A dozen elephants trotted by like a slow moving stampede, raising their trunks and rocking their heads as they passed.

Twiga Campsite & Lodge.  A budget hotel with a small campground, communal restrooms, buffet restaurant and outdoor pool. Three rows of Safari style tents line the lawn in front of the hotel. Inside are Massai woven bed cushions and standard sleeping bags. We camped here overnight after exploring Tarangire National Park.

Serengeti National Park 

The Serengeti is one of Africa’s most famed national park’s and wildlife reserves. Its vast savannas are home to a large population of big cats, predators and African animals. We spent two days on safari in the park, camping overnight in the bush. 

Serengeti Landscapes.  Vast savannas and dry grasslands stretch across the horizon of the Serengeti, occasionally interrupted by the lone acacia tree, termite mound or Kopjes. Safari vehicles zoom down dirt roads, leaving clouds of dust in their wake. Fiery sunsets cast shades of magenta and orange across the sky as silhouettes of acacia trees contrast the horizon.

Kopjes.  Dramatic granite outcrops that rise from the savanna like an island in a sea of grass. They’re also known as “pride rocks” and serve as important habitats for big cats like lions, cheetahs and leopards. 

Lions.  Lions rein in the Serengeti! Three greeted us just before entering the Nkuyu Gate. One patrolled the roadway, another shaded under a bridge and the third drank from a puddle beside our Land Cruiser, its orange fur and fluffy mane within reaching distance. Several lions napped under a lone acacia tree in the middle of the savanna. Four lionesses prowled through the golden grasses. A majestic lion posed for photos, its amber eyes stared back at us with a genuine fearsomeness. 

Cheetahs.  Cheetahs are one of the most beautiful and powerful animals on the savanna. We encountered a trio napping and watching the horizon for approaching prey. 

Leopards.  Leopards are one of the most difficult animals to spot on the savanna. Our guide spotted one, very well camouflaged and perched on a Kopjes. To our surprise, two cute leopard cubs appeared and began licking the larger one before walking off together.

Hyena.  A solo hyena blocked the road as night fell. It yawned, showing off its pointed teeth before stretching and walking off into the sunset. 

Herds & Wildlife.  Herds of impala, gazelle and zebra roam freely across the dry plaines of the Serengeti. Rarer sights were wildebeest and hartebeest, having migrated on their annual migration to the Maasai Mara in Kenya. Towers of giraffe and parades of elephants march across the savanna in search of food and water. Though more difficult to see, small game like warthogs, jackals and mongoose forage in the low grasses. 

Seronera River.  A narrow river flowing through the south eastern Serengeti. Its lush banks are an oasis for Nile crocodile and large families of bathing hippos. Hundreds of hippos soak with their heads and backs above the water, huffing, puffing and snorting after fully submerging. A rare sight was an 8 ft long python slowly slithering across the ground not far from a large crocodile.

Pimbi Public Campsite.  Camping in the Serengeti is one of the most exciting way to experience the national park. The Pimbi Public Campsite is located in the middle of the Serengeti, completely exposed to the grassy plains and animals that roam them. We camped in tents for one night, arriving shortly after sunset. The cackle of hyena could be heard somewhere in the distance. The roars of lions reverberated across the savanna at night. We woke up to two leopards retuning from their hunt, climbing onto the rocks less than 300 meters from our camp.

Ngorongoro Conservation Area 

Ngorongoro is a lush conservation area famed for its volcanic caldera, large population of predators and variety of birdlife. We camped one night on the crater rim before descending into its expansive floor for a morning game drive.

The Ngorongoro Crater.  The crater is Africa’s largest caldera and the heart of the Ngorongoro Reserve. Its forested walls, grassy floor and alkaline lake is a cradle for life and host to countless species. Formed by the collapse of a prehistoric volcano, its walls tower an average of 2,000 feet above the crater floor. An observation deck looks into its vast expanse from the rim.

Lions & Cats.  Lions are the primary predator in The Ngorongoro Crater. We spotted a lioness and her three cubs walking along the roadside. A very majestic male lion with a dark mane stood in the grasses, looking across the landscape. A little serval slept in the dry grasses and morning sunlight.

Predators & Scavengers.  The Ngorongoro Crater is famed for its high concentration of predators and scavengers. A pride of several lions took down a juvenile wildebeest minutes before we reached the crater floor. The lions sat gnawing on its carcass, bones and skull. A pack of hyena surrounded the lions, waiting in the grasses for a chance at stealing scraps. Two jackals stared on as a flock of vultures flew overhead waiting for leftovers. Further into the crater, a pack of hyena feasted on a dead hippo, pulling intestines from the animal’s carcass.

Lake Magadi.  An alkaline lake in the Ngorongoro Crater home to a variety of aquatic birds like pink flamingos, blue hurons, yellow billed storks, cormorant, egrets and Egyptian Ibis flock to the lake. African crowned cranes, large ostrich, secretary birds and kori bustard forage in the surrounding grasses. Families of hippos lounge in the shallow waters while cape buffalo gather in the marshes. 

Herds of Animals.  Herds are confined to the crater year round due to its vast scale and range of ecosystems. Wildebeest, zebra, gazelle, buffalo and warthogs roam freely in the grasslands. Elephants and giraffes wander the forested crater walls and rim. 

Simba Campsite A.  A large campground on the Ngorongoro Crater Rim. It’s popular with both tenters and camper vans, offering amenities like shared kitchens, restrooms, hot showers, fire pits and a camp store. The campsite is surrounded by lush forest home to wild animals. An elephant walked along the camp’s perimeter, a herd of zebra grazed outside of our tents and a tower of giraffes sat across a distant hill. 

Good to Know.  The elevation of the crater rim sits at an average elevation of 7,500 feet above sea level. Its altitude results in cooler temperatures, especially at night. 

Maasai Village. Rural Tanzania is home to many African tribes, particularly the Maasai. They live in small communities comprised of cylindrical mud huts topped with conical thatched roofs. Many wear traditional robes, distinguished by their color and pattern. Maasai men shepherd cows, goats and sheep between fields. The women and children operate roadside stands selling woven baskets, bush honey and safari style paintings. There is a high concentration of Maasai villages on the route through Ngorongoro to the Serengeti.

Suricata Safaris

We booked our 4 day, 3 night group camping safari in Tarangire National Park, The Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater with Suricata Safarison Viator. It included all park fees, camping equipment, meals, water and transportation in a 4x4 Safari Land Cruiser. 

Where to Stay

The city of Arusha is a hub for Tanzanian safaris, located within a few hours of some of the country’s most famed reserves and national parks. Its common to stay here for at least a day before and after a safari.

Serengeti Villa.  A boutique eco hotel in Arusha with tropical gardens, safari style rooms and tribal furniture. The villa serves delicious Swahili meals and local beers, hosts nightly bonfires and offers services like laundry and luggage storage. Our only regret was not staying longer. Reserve on Booking.

Location Specifics

When to Visit.  The dry season, from July to October, is the best time of year to visit Tanzania for a safari.

Dust.  The savanna can be extremely dusty during the dry season. Bring wipes to clean off with and wear clothes you don’t mind getting dirty. 

Binoculars.  Being a pair of good binoculars to view distant animals and close up details of nearby game. We bought a pair of Nikon Monarch M5 with 10x42 magnification. 

Camera.  Phones can great for social media photos however, a professional camera is much better for detailed and close up photos. 

Tipping.  Plan to tip safari guides between $10-$20 USD per day per person.

Swahili Words & Phrases 

Swahili is the local language in Tanzania. We learned several basic words and phrases from our guides. 

• Jambo. A formal greeting meaning hello. 

• Mambo.  An informal greeting meaning hello or how are you?

• Poa or Poa Poa. A common response to Mambo, meaning good or well. 

• Habari Asubuhi.Good morning. 

• Lala Salama.  Good night or sleep well.

• Kwa Heri.  Goodbye. 

• Asante.  Thank you. 

• Asante Sana.  Thank you very much. 

• Karibu.  Welcome or you’re welcome.

• Hakuna Matata.  The phrase made world famous by the Lion King. It’s a real Swahili phrase meaning no worries or no problems.

Elsewhere in Tanzania 

From the wildlife spectacles of the Serengeti and Ngorongoro to the summit of Kilimanjaro and the beaches of Zanzibar, discover more of Tanzania beyond the safari circuit through these travel guides:

Zanzibar Travel Guide: Stone Town, Beaches & Swahili Culture.  Discover Zanzibar through historic Stone Town, white sand beaches, turquoise waters and the rich traditions of Swahili culture.

Mount Kilimanjaro Guide: Lemosho Route, Mountain Camping & Uhuru Peak.  Challenge yourself on Africa's highest mountain through the scenic Lemosho Route, alpine camps and the journey to Uhuru Peak.

For Next Time…

We spent four days in the back of a Toyota Land Cruiser exploring Tanzania’s savannas, craters and national parks. Next time we return, we plan to experience a safari on foot and by air.

Walking Safari.  Guided safaris led on foot by rangers lead visitors through the Arusha National Park to see wildlife up close and personal. Unlike multi day safaris, the park offers full and half day experiences. 

Hot Air Ballon Safari.  Hot air balloons float through the early morning skies of the Serengeti. Once in the park, tour operators offer aerial safaris of its vast grasslands and kopjes. 

Kenya Safari Guide: The Great Migration, Big Five & Maasai Mara

African Safari Adventure 

Kenya’s protected reserves and sprawling savannas are home to African wildlife, migratory animals and endangered species, making the biodiverse country a classic destination to experience an unforgettable safari. Large herds move in unison as the fragrant scent of grasses wafts across the savanna. Majestic animals graze peacefully while predators stalk their prey and birds fly overhead.

We crossed the landscape on a six day safari, participating in multiple game drives and guided nature walks through the African bush with Explorers Wild Adventures. We spotted Africa’s “Big Five,” witnessed The Great Migration and visited a Maasai village to learn about indigenous culture and traditions. The safari included parks fees, transportation, camp accommodations and all meals.

Maasai Mara National Park

The Maasai Mara is one of Africa’s largest wild game reserves, sight of The Great Migration and home to endangered species, herds of animals, ferocious predators and seemingly endless savannas. We spent two days on Safari in the park witnessing some of nature’s most impressive sights and wildlife. 

The Great Migration.  The Great Migration is the largest migration event on the planet. Over a million wildebeests migrate alongside hundreds of thousands of zebras and antelopes from the Serengeti to the Maasai Mara in search of food and water. We witnessed the incredible event unfold across the vast landscape. Organized lines of wildebeests snaked across the savanna, trotting and honking as they migrated. A herd passed by a pride of male lions and later crossed the crocodile infested Mara River. Mass herds of wildebeests, zebras and antelopes gathered in the savanna grazing on grasses after migrating long distances. 

Predators & Big Cats.  The Maasai Mara is known for its high concentration of predators and big cats, especially during the Great Migration. Lions were a common sight while cheetahs and leopards were more illusive. 

• Lions. Lions are a familiar sight in the Maasai Mara. We spotted several pairs enjoying afternoon cat naps and watched as a pride rest under a tree as a herd of wildebeests migrated passed. The devoured carcass of a buffalo alerted us to another pride. Through our binoculars, we spotted a male, a cub and several lionesses prowling on distant rocks. 

• Cheetahs & Leopards.  A beautiful cheetah sat on a small hill overlooking the landscape. It groomed its orange black spotted fur while twirling its tail and looking around. Another quickly trotted across the savanna into the tree covered highlands. A well hidden leopard napped in the shade of a grassy riverbank, waking up briefly to change position.

African Elephants.  Parades of African Elephants grazed in the grasses, drank from watering holes and rolled in mud puddles of the Maasai Mara. Two parades marched by allowing for an up close encounter. One of the babies even wanted to play, running towards us and waving its trunk before trotting back to its mama. The remaining adults and calves joined a larger group gathering in the distant plains.

Big & Small Game.  We drove deeper into the Maasai Mara with our windows ajar and roof hatch opened. We spotted lone animals and herds of impala, zebra, wildebeest, hartebeest, antelopes and buffalo grazing in the savannas. Giraffes stood majestically in the bush, ostriches ruffled their feathers, jackals scavenged for food, warthogs scurried through the grasses, baboons stared off mischievously and Ugandan Crowned Cranes strutted along the roadside.

Birds of Prey.  Vultures and storks circle in the sky and nest in trees waiting to scavenge on leftover remains. They descended on a freshly killed wildebeest as a pair of lions rested in the distance. The birds ferociously ripped apart the carcass, bloodying their faces in the carnage.

Mara River.  The Mara River is one of the most dangerous parts of the Maasai Mara. A heavily armed ranger led us along its banks on a bush walk. Families of hippopotamuses bathed in the water, lifting their faces and backs above the surface, occasionally coming ashore. Nile crocodiles, both large and small, sunbathed along its banks while waiting for their next meal.

Guides.  A guide is needed to visit The Maasai Mara. One was included with our multi day safari tour. 

Massai Village Walk 

The Massai are a tribal group native to southern Kenya. We walked through a small village with a chief’s son learning more about their culture, traditions, way of life and reliance on cattle. The tribe wears brightly patterned shawls and colorful beaded accessories to distinguish between families. Men and women each performed traditional dances, inviting us to participate. We toured a Maasai house, like all others in the village, it’s made from clay and cow dung supported by olive wood. The snug interior is compartmentalized into three small bedrooms and a kitchen. Once the village walk ended, women displayed handmade beaded jewelry and wooden animal carvings for sale.

Lake Nakuru National Park 

Lake Nakuru is a salt water lake in the Kenyan highlands famed for its array of aquatic bird species, endangered rhino and giraffes populations. 

Southern White Rhino.  The reserve surrounding Lake Nakuru is home to a growing population of Southern White Rhinos. We spotted several on our safari around the lake. A mother and calf stood together in the bushes, a group of three grazed in the a field and a full crush of six rested in the distance grasses.

Birdwatching.  Hundreds of migratory birds flock to Lake Nakuru. We spotted a flamboyant of lesser flamingos, giant white pelicans hunting, Egyptian geese, cormorants and various types of storks. Flocks of guinea fowl are commonly spotted scurrying in the park’s roadside bushes. 

Nubian Giraffe.  Lake Nakuru is home to about 65 Nubian Giraffes. There are less than 1,400 of the critically endangered species remaining in the wild. We observed at least half of the park’s population as they strutted through fields and grazed on tall trees. 

Wildlife Spotting.  Lake Nakuru is home to variety of wildlife. Large herds of water buffalo, impalas, grand gazelle and zebras are common sights. Groups of warthogs appeared from their dens, chasing each other around and grazing on grasses. Troops of baboons patrol the roadsides, often trotting after impalas encroaching on their territory. Hyena lurk in the grasses while jackals slink between bushes. 

Makalia Falls.  A 10 meter tall waterfall spilling over a rocky cliff into a river pool. The water was a rich chocolaty brown color due to recent strong rains. 

Climate Change.  Lake Nakuru used to be known for its millions of pink flamingos, accounting for a third of the world’s population. In recent years, flooding has reduced the salinity of the lake and a majority of the flamingos have migrated elsewhere.

Guides.  Lake Nakuru can can be visited without a guide or 4x4 vehicle. We visited with a guide, included in our multi day safari. 

Lake Naivasha

Lake Naivasha is a high altitude freshwater lake home to native hippos, aquatic birds and wildlife relocated from the Maasai Mara. We took a boat safari on its waters and walking safari along its shores. 

Lake Naivasha Boat Safari.  A tranquil ride across the Lake Naivasha allowed us to spot wild hippos and aquatic birds. The hippos lounged in the shallows near shore, lifting the head above the surface for air before fully submerging. For safety, we kept a distance of 50 to 100 feet. The lake is full of bird life like nesting cormorants, king fishers, hamerkops, sacred ibises, vibrant starlings, great white pelicans and fish eagles. The lake is commercialized with eco-resorts, hotels, summer cottages and campgrounds tracing its shoreline. Locals wade in the shallows fishing for tilapia and other lake fish. 

Lake Naivasha Walking Safari.  A wildlife reserve encompasses the shores of Lake Naivasha. It’s home to animals found in the Maasai Mara like waterbuck antelope, impala, zebra, wildebeest and giraffe. A walking safari brought us up close to the animals as they grazed. We listened as the exotic sounds of birds sang out around us. The animals are not allowed to be touched or fed in order to keep them wild. Most are even skittish and stray away from humans despite their habitualization.  

Amboseli National Park 

Amboseli National Park is famed for its large population of African elephants, wild game and dramatic landscapes. Its wetlands create a lush oasis and shallow lake visited by elephants and migratory birds. Wild game graze in vast lowlands covered in bush and Acacia trees. Dust devils spiral into the sky across the dry savanna. Clouds completely obscured views of Mt Kilimanjaro. 

African Elephants.  African elephants frequently travel in large groups across the Amboseli. Several parades comprised of the smallest of calfs and the largest of matriarchs marched in lines across the savanna towards a lush oasis. By the mid afternoon, well over one hundred had met to graze, bathe and socialize. A parade of the gentle giants passed closely by us ripping up grass with their trunks, sporting pairs of large white tusks and flapping their giant ears. We even spotted one of the park’s famed “super tuskers,” recognizable by their massive tusks. 

Game Spotting.  The expanses of the Amboseli are thriving with all kinds of African animals. Towers of giraffes grazed on trees. Small herds of zebras, wildebeest and gazelle roamed freely. A trio of fearsome lionesses lay in the grasses as cautious zebras passed by. A pair of jackals chased away an impala. A serval sprinted quickly past. Ostriches strut across the savanna like giant feather dusters. Warthogs scurried together in the bush. Two sleepy hyena woke from their den to look around. 

Wetlands.  The wetlands of the Amboseli are a gathering place and a habitat for birdlife. At their center is a mirror-like lake surrounded by lush grasses where flocks of pink and white flamingos gather. Storks, herons, cranes and hamerkops hunt for fish in narrow streams. Hippos bathe in watering holes and lounge along the muddy shores.

Noomotio Observation Point.  A panoramic lookout on an extinct volcano with views of the wetland, savanna and on a clear day, Mt. Kilimanjaro. Wildebeest and zebra roam freely around the slopes while elephants march in the distance. A short trail leads to a picnic area at the top with beautiful starlings and canaries chirping in the bushes.

Guides.  The Amboseli can can be visited without a guide or 4x4 vehicle. We visited with a guide, included in our multi day safari. 

Safari Camps & Hotels 

We spent the 6 days of our safari, migrating between campsites and and hotels nearby the national parks and nature preserves. 

Miti Mingi Eco Camp.  A safari camp on the edge of the Maasai Mara National Park with a few dozen walk in style tents. Each tent is equipped with beds, mosquito nets, electricity, running water and restrooms. A dining hall offers buffet meals, local beers and Kenyan tea. We stayed here the first two nights of our safari. 

Hunters Luxury Manor Amboseli.  A luxurious safari camp with spacious canvas tents, an outdoor swimming pool, a communal dining area and bon fire pit. The tent’s interiors are furnished wooden furniture, mosquito netted beds, cow hide rugs and a free standing soaking tub. Outside is a cozy patio and an outdoor shower. The manor offers full room and board. 

Nyati Safari Camp.  A budget safari camp near the entrance of Amboseli National Park. They offer a range of accommodations from motel style rooms to semi luxurious tents. Buffet breakfasts and dinners are provided along with packed lunches for full day game drives. There are evening bonfires and morning nature walks. 

Buraha Zenoni Hotel & Resort.  A hotel nearby Lake Nakuru with decent rooms, a roof top restaurant and bar, an outdoor pool and evening Maasai dance performances. Their buffet meals included a mix of Kenyan cuisine and western dishes. We stayed here for one night while exploring lake. 

Safari Tips

4x4 Vehicle.  Only book a safari with a 4x4 Land Cruiser or Jeep and pop up roof. They’re the only vehicles that can handle the rugged terrain. Safari vans are slow and can’t access more treacherous parts of the parks. 

Binoculars.  Being a pair of good binoculars to view distant animals and close up details of nearby game. We bought a pair of Nikon Monarch M5 with 10x42 magnification. 

Camera.  Phone can great for social media photo however, a professional camera is much better for detailed and close up photos. 

Wear Layers.  It’s cool in the mornings and evening but warm during the day. Plan to easily add or subtract layers. 

Dust.  The savanna can be extremely dusty during the dry season. Bring wipes to clean off with and wear clothes you don’t mind getting dirty. 

Tipping.  Plan to tip Safari guides between $10-$20 USD per day per person. 

When to Visit.  One of the best times of year to visit the Maasai Mara is during the Great Migration between July and August. Millions of migrating animals cross the savanna in search of food and water while attracting predators. This coincides with Kenya’s winter. The temperatures are often cooler and day are cloudy.

Swahili Words & Phrases 

English is commonly spoken across Kenya. Many people also speak Swahili, an East African language. 

Jambo.  A common greeting. When someone says Jambo, respond back with Jambo as a sign of mutual respect. 

Mambo.  A more informal version of Jambo. It’s often said amongst friends. 

Karibu.  A greeting meaning welcome or used as you’re welcome.

Asante.  Thank you. 

Asante Sana.  Thank you very much. 

Hakuna Matata.  To quote the Lion King, it means “no worries” or no troubles. It is a genuine Swahili phrase though mostly said between locals and travelers. 

Elsewhere in Kenya

From the Great Migration and Big Five safaris of the Maasai Mara to Nairobi's markets, cuisine and cultural attractions, discover more of Kenya beyond the savanna.

Nairobi Travel Guide: Wildlife, Markets & Kenyan Cuisine.  Discover Kenya's dynamic capital through local markets, cultural attractions, wildlife experiences and some of East Africa's most exciting cuisine.

East Java Travel Guide: Mount Bromo, Ijen & Tumpak Sewu

East Java, Indonesia

Situated along the Pacific Ring of Fire, East Java is the land of dramatic landscapes. Fuming volcanos, picturesque waterfalls, verdant jungles and grassy savannas cover the region. East Java’s fertile landscape is a hub for agriculture. Farmers cultivate lush rice terraces while trucks carry loads of harvested sugarcane, cassava, bananas and coconuts. Cities and villages offer a glimpse into Indonesian culture. Chaotic scenes of moto bikes speed down two lane streets. The Islamic call to prayer echos from domed mosques. Warungs serve affordable local bites while cafes brew Javanese coffee. 

Tumpak Sewu Waterfall

Tumpak Sewu is a massive waterfall formed by dozens of streams spilling over a crescent shaped canyon into the river below. The lush canyon is covered in moss, ferns, bamboo and palm trees. Semeru Mountain rises through the clouds in the background as mist blows in all directions. It’s Java’s largest waterfall and a true natural marvel. 

The waterfall is viewable from an observation deck at the canyon rim and from the riverbed at its base. A trail leads to the base following a series of makeshift staircases and metal ladders. They cross over flowing streams, small waterfalls and through the river. From the base, the canyon and waterfall surrounded us like a panorama as cooling mist drenched us. 

Goa Tetes Cave.  A cave beyond a waterfall with dripping rock formations and a smaller waterfall within. It’s reachable by following a trail down the canyon from Tumpak Sewu Waterfall. The trail is scenic, with several small waterfalls pouring over the verdant canyon’s walls. 

Wisata View Kapas Biru.  A panoramic viewpoint from the top of a small waterfall, looking across a river canyon towards another waterfall. The opposite waterfall streams from a crevice in the crescent shaped cliff, surrounded by lush jungle on all sides. 

Good to Know. Be prepared to get soaking wet! Come with a change of clothes for after the hike. Bring or rent water shoes for 20K Rp. 

Getting Here.  The waterfall is located 2 hours from Malang. We booked a driver and guide with Smartway Indonesia Tours on Viator to bring us here and back.

Ijen Volcano 

Ijen Volcano is famed for its electric blue flames, turquoise lagoon and sulphur mines. Sunrise hikes starting in the middle of the night lead to its active crater and picturesque caldera. 

Ijen Volcano Hike.  The hike up the volcano’s slopes and into its crater begins at 2am when the park’s gates open. The wide trail is moderately steep but levels out just before the descent into the crater. The narrow trail into the crater meanders down rocky steps and loose gravel. The smell of sulphuric gases becomes intense without a gas mask. The trail can take 1-2 hours depending on speed and position amongst other hikers. 

Ijen Blue Flames.  At the base of the crater between plumes of sulphuric gas are the electric blue flames. A small viewing area offers close up access to them. The flames seem to flow and dance down the rocky hill, sometimes jumping along the ground. Their characteristic blue color is a result of the hot burning sulphuric gases released by the volcano. 

Pro Tip.  Avoid using a flash light around the blue flames. It’s better to experience their glow without excess light. Politely ask others to do the same. 

Ijen Crater Lake.  The crater rim offers picturesque views of turquoise colored lake and sunrise. The viewpoint is reachable after a 30 to 45 minute hike up from the blue flames. As daylight breaks, the bright colored lagoon at the bottom of the crater comes into view. Gases fume from the volcanic vents as clouds roll over the lush hillside. The sun light illuminates nearby volcanos and colors the sky in a combination of pastel tones. Alternatively, the crater lake is viewable from the sulphur mines near the blue flames. This is a good spot to stay if unable to reach the rim for sunrise in time.

Sulphur Mines.  The volcanic vents surrounding the lagoon are hand mined for sulphur. Local miners live on the volcano under hazardous conditions to harvest the mineral, referred to as “the devil’s gold.” Vibrant yellow deposits are scattered across the ground and collected in baskets lining the trail. We visited on Satu Suro, the Javanese Islamic New Year. It’s one of the few days that miners take to rest. As a result, our guide introduced us to his father, Arifin, an experienced miner and local legend. He showed us the capsule sized space he sleeps in and a brief documentary about his work. Watch on Coconuts TV. 

Hire A Guide.  Though it’s possible to visit on your own, we visited with a guide for the additional safety and ease of coordination. We booked with East Java Paradise Travel on Viator.

Be First.  3,000 people are permitted to enter the volcano daily, often resulting in a bottle neck of hikers along the trail. Furthermore, the area around the blue flames is very small. The best way to enjoy seeing them safely and unobstructed is to wait at the gate early and hike ahead of everyone else.

Medical Check.  Prior to beginning the hike, local officials require all visitors to undergo a brief medical exam, checking blood pressure, blood oxygen levels and temperature. 

Gas Masks.  A proper fitting gas mask is strongly recommended. Rent one or make sure it’s included with your tour. The volcanic fumes are toxic and highly concentrated around the blue flames.  

Proper Gear.  Wear layers for the cooler nighttime temperatures and shoes with good treads. Being a headlamp or flashlight to see. Hiking poles are helpful but not necessary. 

Mount Bromo

Mount Bromo is one of East Java’s most active volcanos! Its ancient crater rim surrounds volcanic cinder cones and a billowing caldera. The island’s tallest volcano, Semeru Mountain, towers in the background erupting with frequent puffs of black ash.

Mount Bromo Sunrise.  A popular time to visit Mount Bromo is for the sunrise. Tours from Malang starts around midnight. It’s followed by a 3 hour drive to the volcano village and a transfer to a 4x4 vintage Toyota Land Cruiser. The final hour leads across the sand sea and up the north crater rim to the lookout points. We sat below “King Kong Hill.”  There are cafes selling coffees, noodles in cups and renting heavy coats. It wasn’t the clearest morning. The sunrise was blocked by clouds and the volcanos were covered in a blanket of fog. Their still visible silhouettes had a mystical view. Mount Bromo constantly billowed out clouds of white smoke while Semeru Mountain erupted with puffs of black ash. 

The Sand Sea.  The Sand Sea is the black sand lava field surrounding the cinder cones within the ancient crater’s walls. Hundreds of colorful Land Cruisers park here while visitors walk or ride pony’s across the landscape to Mt. Bromo’s smoldering crater. Passing Mount Batok, a shrub covered cinder cone, we reached the blackened base of Mount Bromo. Locals sell colorful bouquets of dried flowers, which any people leave as offerings to the volcano. 

Mount Bromo Crater Rim.  A 250 step staircase leads up Mount Bromo’s crater walls to the rim. The rim offers views into the fuming vent of the volcano. Hissing steam and gases roar from within the crater. Black scared rocks and bright yellow sulphur deposits cover its steep walls. Remnants of offerings, mostly flowers and cooked rice were visible along the steep inner slops. 

Getting Here.  We hired a guide with round trip transportation from Malang. It was the easiest way to see the volcanos. Book with Cheap Bromo on Viator. 

Good to Know. Wear layers and warm clothes. The temperature is often cold in the early morning at the high elevation. Remove layers as the day warms up.

Baluran National Park

One of the lesser known natural sights in East Java is the Baluran National Park. It encompasses landscapes like volcanos, savanna, forest, mangroves and beaches, each home a variety of wild animals and endemic species. 

Bekol Savanna.  A vast grassland with bushes and broadleaf trees home to heards of wild animals like buffalo, deer and monkeys. It sits against the towering backdrop of the Baluran and Ijen Volcanos. With binoculars and camera in hand, we spotted wildlife. Large buffalo stood covered in mud as they grazed in the grasslands. Hundreds of deer gathered together. Fawns chased each other, stopping to breast feed from their mothers. Bucks spared while others feed, lifting their heads above the grass to reveal a crown of shrubs stuck in their antlers. 

Evergreen Forest.  A section of the park with vibrant green foliage supported by an underground river. A road leads through its dense canopy in route to the savanna. 

Bama Beach.  A natural beach with a coral sand shore, hardened black lava flows, a mangrove forest and tide pools. Troops of wild monkeys scavenger for shell fish during low tide. 

Coastal Fringe.  A lush forested zone between the savanna and coast. Its trees are home to hornbill toucans, colorful peacocks and monkeys. We watched a family of Javan Lutung (ebony monkeys), including a mother with her orange haired infant, jump from tree to tree. 

Book a Safari.  One of the best ways to visit is on Safari Tour. We booked  half day safari with Epic Escapes Indonesia on Get Your Guide.

Indonesian Cuisine 

Nasi Goreng.  Vegetable fried rice, an Indonesian staple commonly served on menus around the country. It’s a popular breakfast dish.

Mi Goreng.  The same as nasi goreng, except made with noodles instead of rice. 

Gado Gado.  Lightly steamed or boiling vegetables served with a spicy peanut sauce. 

Batagor.  Fried banana, tempe or tofu stuffed with glass noodles and veggies. It’s a very common street food dish in East Java and eaten for breakfast or a mid day snack. 

Tempeh.  Fermented and spouted soybeans formed into a protein patty or block. A common preparation is Tempeh Lada Hitam, tempeh cooked in a black pepper sauce.

Sayur Lodeh.  A spiced coconut stew cooked with tempeh, eggplant, tomatoes and green beans. 

Bintang.  Indonesia’s national beer. It’s a light beer perfect for the perpetually hot afternoons and evenings.

Sambal.  Indonesians love spicy food. The source of the heat is often sambal, a minced mixture of Thai chili peppers, shallots and garlic.

Where to Stay

We hopped around East Java every couple of days staying in Malang, Banyuwangi and Surabaya. 

Kosasih 1919.  A small bed and breakfast in central Banyuwangi with spacious rooms, lush gardens and a communal kitchen. The hosts and their traditional breakfasts were the highlights! Reserve on Booking.

Malang City Point Apartments.  A simple and cozy two bedroom apartment located in the Malang City Point Mall. The mall was great for grocery shopping, local bites and cafes. Book on Airbnb. 

Cordia Hotel Surabaya Airport.  During our travel days into and out of Surabaya, we stayed the night at a  airport hotel. It’s located in terminal 1 with retro rooms and views of the runway. The hotel has its own terrace coffee bar and includes breakfast. Reserve on Booking.

Getting Around 

Grab or Gojek.  The two competing taxi apps are Grab and Gojek. Both offer affordable rides getting around within and between cities. Inner city rides range from $1 to $10. Longer distances, such as Surabaya to Malang cost around $40 and take 1 hour 30 minutes. 

KAI Trains.  East Java has an efficient and affordable train system with routes leading to destinations across the island. We booked tickets traveling between Malang, Banyuwangi and Surabaya. Tickets cost less than $5 each for Economy Class and $22 for Executive Class. Transit time takes between 6-7 hours with multiple trains leaving daily. Tickets can be reserved online with Tiket Com as far as two months in advance.

Location Specifics

When to Visit. Visit during the peak of the dry season, in mid June. The weather was sunny and bright most days with the occasional afternoon storm.

Shoes Off Indoors.  Like many places in Asia, it’s proper to remove shoes before entering home or some shops. 

Islamic Customs.  Indonesia is an Islamic country. The call to prayer is present in most places. Modesty and respect in all forms are the most important customs to follow.

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Indonesian laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Elsewhere in Indonesia 

From East Java's volcanic landscapes and waterfalls to the Komodo Islands' marine life, Bali's coastal culture and Ubud's sacred temples, continue exploring Indonesia through these travel guides:

Komodo Islands Travel Guide: Komodo Dragons, Island Adventures & Marine Life. Explore the Komodo Islands where Komodo dragons, volcanic landscapes, pink sand beaches and coral reefs blend wildlife encounters with island hopping adventures.

Bali Travel Guide: Canggu, Beaches & Island Adventures.  Experience Bali where sacred temples, rice paddies, black sand beaches, surf breaks and vibrant beach clubs embody Balinese culture and island life.

Ubud Travel Guide: Rice Terraces, Sacred Temples & Balinese Culture.  Wander through Ubud where expansive rice terraces, jungle trails, volcanic hikes, Hindu temples and the Sacred Monkey Forest preserve the cultural heart of Bali.

For Next Time… 

There is so much to see in East Java and Indonesia! We are dreaming of returning for a third time to this scenic country and have a list of sights left to experience. 

Mt. Bromo.  We plan to spend a few days around Mt. Bromo and its active volcanos. Ideally, we would visit on a crystal clear day to see the landscape in full detail unobscured by fog. 

Multi-Day Volcano Hike.  With dozens of volcanos to choose from. We plan to hike and camp overnight on one of Java’s volcanos. Mt. Semeru, the largest volcano on the island has several routes and campsites to choose from. 

West Bali National Park.  From Banyuwangi, we would love to re-visit Bali and explore the island’s western peninsula and national park home to endemic birds, coral reefs and wild animals. 

Prambanan Temple.  A 9th century Hindu temple in Central Java. It’s the second largest after Angkor Wat. Its intcate structures and towers are carved from black lava rocks.

Rwanda Road Trip Guide: Kigali, Wildlife Trekking & Local Culture

Rwandan Roadtrip

Rwanda is a small East African country known as the land of 1,000 hills. It’s home to lush farmland, mountainous rainforests, sprawling savannas, great lakes and volcanos. Encounters with endangered primates like gorillas, chimpanzees and golden monkeys attract eco-tourists from across the world. The country’s cultural identity and history are on display at museums, galleries and memorials. We spent a week road-tripping across the country, experiencing its natural beauty, extraordinary animals and local culture. 

Observe the Local Culture

One of the most eye-opening parts about driving in Rwanda was observing the local culture. People work hard cultivating farmland and transporting goods to markets in rural villages. The roadsides are consistently buzzing with people. Women carry bunches of bananas, baskets of produce and sacs of goods on their heads. Men ride and push bicycles overloaded with bundles of sugarcane, silver canisters of milk and bags of goods. Children fill jerry cans with fresh water from wells and roll wheels with sticks for leisure. 

Kigali, Rwanda 

Kigali is the vibrant capital city of Rwanda. Its modern neighborhoods and densely populated communities sprawl across the landscape’s rolling hills. Their warm tones glow by day and white lights twinkle by night. It’s a verdant place with palm lined boulevards, flowering trees and manicured bushes. The country’s culture is expressed through its people, goods, cuisine and history. Shops sell handmade crafts and African goods. Seasonally farmed produce is sold at local markets. Women dress in colorfully patterned clothes. Restaurants serve Rwandan cuisine while cafes brew Rwandan coffee. The people look towards the future while remembering the 1994 Genocide. 

See the Sights  

Kigali Genocide Memorial.  A memorial and historical museum dedicated to the victims of the 1994 genocide. The museum is organized by section. It teaches about the root causes and colonial divisions that lead to the genocide. It details the history and atrocities prior to and during. It honors the victims and those that stood up to terror as it ensued. It explains the steps post genocide to heal Rwanda and hold accountable those responsible. Lastly, it calls on upon humanity act to prevent future genocides. Mass graves containing the remains of a quarter million people murdered during the genocide are laid to rest here. They’re surrounded by symbolic gardens dedicated to the victims. More than 200 other memorial sights across the country serve as a stark reminder of the atrocities. 

Pro Tip. Pay for an audio guide to learn more from the memorial and museum.

Belgian Peacekeepers Memorial.  A memorial for 10 Belgian peacekeepers killed during the early hours of the 1994 Genocide. The bullet riddled building is the sight of the massacre. It is preserved and partially converted in a museum recounting the timeline of the tragedy. A stone monument honors and remembers the peacekeepers live.  Entrance is by donation. 

Inema Arts Gallery.  A small arts center and gallery with pieces made by East African and Rwandan artists. Many of the works explore cultural identity, ancestry and heritage. Several pieces are made using, Bark Cloth, the outer layer of the ficus tree. The gallery also features traditional wooden masks, furniture and sculptures. 

Kigali Car Free Zone.  A walking street and plaza lined with kiosks and shops selling Rwandan handicrafts and Rwandan street food. There is no shortage of carved wooden gorillas and similar themed objects like chess sets, walking sticks and furniture. Merchants sell African masks, woven baskets, cow hide drums, colorful handmade jewelry, home decor, patterned clothing and culturally inspired paintings. Cafes serve cups of Rwandan coffee, croissants, chapati rolls and samosas. 

Biryogo Car Free Food Street.  A painted walking street lined with dozens of Rwandan, Arabian and South Asian restaurants. Tables, chairs and umbrellas flood the street as hosts advertise and compete for business. It’s a hyper local spot to taste Rwandan cuisine and regional flavors. We ate at Visit Rwanda, a restaurant serving a range of local dishes and fresh fruit juices. We ordered the Nile perch fish brochettes, vegetarian imvange amashaza, spiced rice pilau, tree tomato and passion fruit juices. Visit on Saturday night for the liveliest experience.  

Good to Know.  Most restaurants are cash only. Vegetarian versions of local dishes are hard to come by. The street is in the Arab Quarter, resultantly, alcohol sales are forbidden. 

Kimironko Market.  Kigali’s central marketplace is a hub for locals and affordable goods. Inside a dimly lit yellow shed is a bustling farmers market with towering piles of vegetables and produce. It took our eyes a few minutes to adjust before truly appreciating the vast selections. Barrels overflow with dried beans and grains. Tables are covered with heaps of carefully stacked fruits and vegetables. Leafy greens and herbs blur into a singular mass. Bunches of bananas and plantains rest at the end of aisles. The smell of dirt wafts from the potatoes and root vegetables. Friendly vendors greeted us with “hello customer, buy something?” The building is surrounded by red dirt roads and stands selling miscellaneous goods like clothes, shoes, furniture, hardware and fabrics.

Mount Kigali Forest.  A forested mountain in the center of Kigali with nature trails, wild velvet monkeys and partial city views. Dirt roads lead up its hillside through local communities to the entrance of the forest. Unmarked trails weave through the forest while city views are visible from the dirt road between it and the communities below. 

Getting Here.  Follow KN229 Street to reach the forest. The steep and rocky street is lined vendors selling home grown produce and charcoal. People were curious about us and very friendly, often smiling in response to us saying Muraho, hello in Kinyarwanda. 

Good to Know. The top of the mountain has a field with communications towers and a military base. We wandered here but were turned around by soldiers. It’s best to avoid.

Volcanos National Park

Volcanos National Park is the last remaining habitat for the endangered Silverback Gorillas and Golden Monkeys. The park is covered in a crest of tree covered volcanos, straddling the boarders of Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Eco hotels are built between farmland just outside of the park. The Rwanda Development Board offers eco tours to see the primates in their natural habitat. They’re highly protected and require an advance permit to visit. 

Golden Monkey Trekking.  The Golden Monkeys are an endangered species native to the Volcano National Park. They live in the forested lowlands surrounding the volcanos and feed on endemic patches of bamboo. Just over 3,000 golden monkeys remain in the wild. Our guides tracked a troop of 70 to an area along the boarder of the park. We spent over an hour observing them in their natural habitat. Their cute and puffy faces glimpsed at us spying on them. They jumped between bamboo stalks and nibbled on leaves. They showed off their golden backs while grooming each other. 

Good to Know.  We were required to wear medical masks to prevent spread of disease. Given their border location, trackers and armed guards followed us for added security. 

Gorilla Naming Place.  A large thatched monument of a family of Gorillas. The largest gorilla’s hands are outstretched, creating a platform for photos. Behind is a replica village with three thatched huts.

Buhanga Eco Park.  A historical sight used to anoint the past kings of Rwanda. Inside the forested park are moss covered lava rock walkways and platforms. They lead to a small cave where the heir to the throne would descend for the anointment ritual. Servants would cleanse him with water and leaves from the forest. He would be declared king upon exiting the cave. The park is only accessible by permit and guide from the Rwanda Development Board. 

Nyungwe Forest National Park

Nyungwe Forest National Park is a tropical rainforest in the high hills of Rwanda. Its lush canopy is home to 20 perfect of Africa’s primates including endangered chimpanzees. We spent a couple days here exploring the park and watching for wildlife. 

Kivu Belt Road.  The single road through the forest and between its visitor centers. It’s a hub for roadside wildlife spotting. We saw chimpanzees, olive baboons, forest antelopes, L'Hoest's and blue monkeys. The road is heavily patrolled by the military in response to conflict with neighboring Burundi and Democratic Republic of the Congo.

Uwinka Visitor Center.  A nature center in the middle of the forest with a canopy walk, zipline, coffee shop, eco hotel and hiking trails. It’s the main hub for many of the forest’s activities. 

Chimpanzee Trekking.  The Nyungwe Forest is home to a growing population of wild Chimpanzees. We trekked beneath its lush canopy to see them in their natural habitat. The sounds of birds singing and insects buzzing filled the morning air as daylight broke. Trackers led the way as we hiked trails, through the thick jungle and down steep slopes. After a couple kilometers, we spotted a family of four chimps in a towering tree. They climbed and swung between branches while feeding on berries. A baby chip stuck close to its mother while learning to climb on its own. We continued further into the jungle, spotting a tree with several more chimps nomming on its leaves. Tropical birds like hornbill toucans, colorful turacos and vibrant sunbirds appeared around is while we quietly watched. 

Pro Tip.  Ants are everywhere when trekking through the jungle. Wear hiking gaiters or long socks over your pant legs to avoid painful bites. 

Nyungwe Canopy Walk.  A series of three suspension bridges above the treetop canopy. The central bridge has panoramic views of the jungleous forest, parasol trees and layers of hilly ridges. It’s reachable from the Uwinka Visitor Center along the Igishigishigi Trail, a 2.1km loop through the forest. 

Nyungwe Night Walk.  A two hour nighttime walk through the forest to spot nocturnal animals. We trekked the Igishigishigi Trail with red lamps in hopes of seeing flying squirrels and bush babies. Unfortunately we didn’t have any luck spotting many animals outside of seeing a few bats. 

Kitabi Eco Center Hotel.  An eco lodge on the edge of Nyungwe Forest with a half dozen thatched huts and a restaurant. The huts have an authentic feeling, designed in the traditional style of the Rwandan king’s palace. The hotel and restaurant overlook steep hills and valleys planted with rows of tea. Our stay included complementary breakfast each morning: eggs, fruit and the local flat bread. We enjoyed dinner around a coal camp fire and watched European football with a group of locals. Reserve on Booking. 

Good to Know.  All trails and activities within the forest need to be accompanied by a guide. Park permits and activities can be booked and paid for in advance with Visit Nyungwe. 

Pro Tip.  Wear layers. It gets cold with temperatures ranging from high 40s F to low 60s F (5C - 15C).

King’s Palace Museum

The King’s Palace Musuem is showcases the modern and traditional homes of Rwanda’s past kings, the country’s royal cows and cultural board games. 

The Traditional Palace.  A replica of the royal tribal village. At its center is a large thatched hut made from woven and braided grasses. Its domed interior feels like an upside down basket with rooms divided by wooden columns and woven panels. The floor is layered with dried grasses and thatched rugs. A ficus bark blanket covers an elevated bedroom platform. It’s circled by a reeded fence and multiple small huts. Each surrounding hut had their own purpose such as storing milk or beer.

The Modern Palace.  A residence built in the early 20th century for the Rwandan King. It featured living quarters and formal decorated with painted fireplaces, tribal patterns, antique furniture, hunting spears and historic photographs. 

The Royal Cows.  An endangered species of cows recognizable by their disproportionately large horns. A handler sang and presented them to us like would be traditionally done for kings. We petted fully grown and adults and several month old calfs. 

Play Igisoro.  A traditional two player strategy game where opponents “eat” or compete for each other’s pieces along a pitted board. We learned to play while sipping on African Coffee. 

Getting Here.The museum is located in Nyanza, halfway between Kigali and The Nyungwe Forest. 

Coffee Culture 

The coffee culture in Rwanda is growing, both figuratively and literally! We visited a coffee farm, roastery and multiple cafes during our time here. 

African Coffee. A Rwandan style coffee made with espresso, ginger, steamed milk and occasionally chocolate.

Huye Mountain Coffee.  A coffee farm with over 7,000 trees, a processing factory, small roastery and roadside cafe. We toured the farm, learning more about the history of coffee, the farm’s organic growing methods and hand processing. Once grown and harvested, the fruits are skinned, fermented, dried and sorted into green coffee for export. The roasted coffee is only sold in Rwanda and at their cafe. We enjoyed a midafternoon caffeine fix before our drive back to Kigali. 

Places to Eat & Drink in Kigali 

Niyo Art Cafe.  An open air cafe with vibrant murals spanning the floor from the street to the interior. The dining area is decorated with patterned Rwandan textiles, sculptures, paintings and plants. Come here for coffee! 

Restaurant l’Epicurien.  A romantic restaurant serving traditional French dishes made using local Rwandan ingredients. The dining room is spread out amongst an atmospheric garden and indoor terrace. We enjoyed the Burgundy snails, a whole grilled tilapia and brochettes (skewers) of Nile Perch along with French wine.

Rwandan Cuisine 

• Ibihaza.  The national dish of Rwanda. It’s a hearty one pot stew made with pumpkin, beans, bell pepper, onions and garlic. 

• Agatogo.  A savory one pot stew made with green bananas, collared greens, spinach, tomato, bell peppers, onions and spices. It’s garnished with avocado and peanut crumble. 

• Brochettes.  Barbecued or fried skewers of meat like beef, goat, chicken or fish. 

• Imvange Amashaza.  Stewed peas mixed with potatoes, carrots, onions and spices accompanied by fresh avocado. It’s typically vegetarian. 

• Pilau.  An East African rice dish cooked with a range of warm spices like cardamom, cumin, turmeric, cinnamon and bay leaves. It’s served as a side or stand alone meal. 

• Tree Tomato.  A deep red egg shaped fruit with a tart flavor similar to raspberry. It’s eaten fresh, blended into juices and baked with pastries.  

• Ugali.  A commonly eaten white corn or cassava flour mash used to scoop stews by hand. Roll a small lump into a ball, press an indentation in the center and scoop using your right hand.  

• Chapati.  A type of roti used to scoop stews and curries by hand. They’re also used to make wraps and samosas.  

• Chips (French Fries).  A common side dish served with most meals made popular by the Belgian and French colonial influences.

Rwandan Beers

Rwanda has a growing beer culture with both traditional and modern brews. We sampled a few pints 

Banana Beer.  A traditional Rwandan drink made from banana juice, water, sugar, sorghum flour and yeast. It’s home brewed across the country. It’s often sold at local markets in small villages. 

Akarusho.  A commercial brand of banana beer. It’s described as a “sweet banana based alcoholic beverage.” It has a malty and semi sweet flavor with a hint of banana. 

Virunga.  The most popular craft beer in Rwanda. It comes in at least three variety: Silver, Gold and Mist.

• Silver.  A light and easy drinking lager. 

• Gold.  A flavorful lager with a subtle sweetness. 

• Mist.  A dark ale with a nutty and aromatic flavor. 

Where to Stay

Salama Village Kigali.  A small homestay in lush and quiet neighborhood of Kigali. Its rooms have shaded outdoor patios, access to a communal kitchen and a living room lounge. Reserve on Booking.

Driving in Rwanda

We loved driving in Rwanda due to freedom of exploration and getting to observe the local culture. It’s easy to get used to after the first day but like everywhere it has its pros and cons. 

• Pros:  Most roads double lane, smoothly paved, well maintained and illuminated at night. Cars are typically automatic. Locals drive on the right side of the road. 

• Cons:  Roadsides become congested with people carrying goods, large trucks can cause delays, motorbikes can be unpredictable. 

Traffic Cameras. Speed limits are strictly enforced by traffic cameras across the country. Permanent camera are located every few kilometers while hidden cameras are nestled in bushes daily by police.  

Refueling.  Gas station attendants refuel vehicles for you. Credit card is typically accepted for payment. 

Car Rental.  We rented our car from Rent Car Rwanda. The car was dropped off and picked up from our accommodation in Kigali. The prices are very reasonable for a 4x4 SUV with insurance included. Reservations are made through WhatsApp and can be paid by card in person. 

Getting Around Kigali 

Move.  A taxi hailing app similar to Uber or Grab. It’s specific to Rwanda and one of the best ways of getting around Kigali affordably. The app can be glitchy, with issues reaching drivers and processing payments. 

Moto Taxi.  Moto taxis are the local way of getting around. They’re readily available in groups along the roadsides.

Location Specifics

Language.  Most people in Rwanda are trilingual. They speak their mother tongue Kinyarwanda as well as French and English. Some common words and phrases are:

• Muraho (mo-rah-ho) = Hello / Bonjour

• Murakoze (moo-rah-koh-zay) = Thank you / Merci 

• Urakoze (oo-rah-koh-zeh) = Thank you / Merci 

• Murabeho (moo-rah-bay-ho) = Good bye / Au revoir

• Muryoherwe (moo-yo-heh-weh) = Enjoy your meal / Bon appetit 

Cash vs Card.  Cash is preferred by most businesses. They accept Rwandan Franc and the US Dollar. Most places will accept credit card but for a transaction fee. 

General Safety.  Kigali is one of the safest cities in Africa. People are kind, honest and respectful. We had no issues walking around by day or night. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Rwanda is one of the few African country’s where homosexuality is legal. There are no laws against discrimination and public opinion is generally unfavorable of same sex relationships. Read more on our article about LGBTQ+ Travel Safety. 

Plastic Bags.  Rwanda is serious about conservation. Plastic bags are banned across the country which strict enforcement to prevent littering. Hardly a single piece of trash litters the streets or roadsides.

The 1994 Genocide.  The genocide is a horrific and recent part of the country’s past. Treat the topic with the utmost care and respect. Avoid conversations regarding people’s ethnic groups. 

Pre-Airport Security Check.  Before entering the airport, there is a roadside security check. Passengers have to pass through metal detectors while their bags are scanned or sniffed by dogs. It’s common practice in East Africa. 

For Next Time…

Gorilla Trekking in Volcano National Park.  Traveling on a budget, we prioritized seeing Rwanda’s other primates. When we return, visiting the gorillas will be top of mind. 

Volcano Hiking.  We plan to hike at least one of the volcanoes in the Volcano National Park boarding Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo like Mount Bisoke and it’s crater lake as well and Mount Sabyinyo and the tri-boarder point. 

Lake Kivu.  Rwanda may be land locked but it’s flanked by one of Africa’s Great Lakes, Lake Kivu. Its shores are ideal for hiking, bird watching and water sports. 

Safari in Akagera National Park.  Having gone on safari in Kenya and Tanzania on our trip through East Africa, we opted out of going on safari in Rwanda. Next time we return we plant to visit Akagera National Park to see its landscapes and wild game. 

Nairobi Travel Guide: Wildlife, Markets & Kenyan Cuisine

Nairobi, Kenya

Nairobi is a place where urban life and the African wild meet. Kenya’s capital city is a hub for big game safaris with access to national parks and reserves. City museums feature exhibits on Maasai culture, restaurants serve local cuisine, cafes brew Kenyan coffee and markets sell East African artistry. We explored the city and ventured across the country’s rich landscapes on an unforgettable safari! 

Central Business District.  The historic heart of the city with bustling streets, roadside vendors, artisan markets, landmark buildings and modern skyscrapers. Stay alert here as it can often be the sight of large protests and demonstrations. 

Ngara.  A central neighborhood that offers a glimpse into local life. The streets are bustling with people on foot, commuting in graffitied buses and shopping at roadside tents displaying produce, fruits, clothes and shoes.

Westlands.  A polished neighborhood with modern high rises, higher end restaurants, office buildings and luxurious hotels. It’s one of the safest areas of the city.

Gigiri.  A tree covered neighborhood surrounded by city parks and home to a large number of embassies, foreign expats and restaurants. 

See the Sights

Nairobi National Museum.  A museum dedicated to the societal, natural and human histories of Kenya. Societal exhibits recount the pre-colonial, colonial and independent histories of Kenya, including that of the country’s many tribes, regions, traditions and folklore. A natural history exhibit displays mounted animals categorizing some of Kenya’s many native species. A particular, though tragic, highlight is Sudan, the last male Northern White Rhino. Kenya is known as the Cradle of Humanity for its fossil records of the earliest humanoids. Exhibits feature skeletons and skulls representing human evolution, the most significant being the Turkana Boy, a complete skeleton of a 1.6 million year old Homo Erectus. 

Kaura Forest.  A large city park and protected forest with nature trials, wildlife, waterfalls and caves. We spent an afternoon meandering through the forest trails brimming with blue, yellow, emerald and orange butterflies. A troop of Mantled Guereza, a black monkey identifiable by their bushy white tails long fringe like hairs, jumped between treetops. Pairs of Suni, a small type of antelope foraged on the forest floor. 

• Karura Waterfalls.  A three tiered waterfall flowing from a chocolate colored river in the middle of the forest. 

• Mau Mau Caves.  A series of riverside caves downstream from the waterfall. They have been used by indigenous peoples dating back hundreds of years. 

• Good to Know.  Admission costs a small fee from any of the park entrances. 

Giraffe Centre.  A conservation center for Rothschild Giraffes with a viewing platform and feeding station. We stood face to face with the giraffes, admiring their towering bodies, exotic patterns and cute expressions up close. Their warm grey tongues licked fibrous pellets them our fingers. Warthogs ran around their long legs feeding on fallen scraps. Adult giraffes and calfs walked around the tree covered meadow and nature trails beyond. The center is famed for the Giraffe Manor, an ivy covered stone estate converted into a bed and breakfast for high paying guests to visit with giraffes. 

Shop the Markets

Nairobi City Market.  An eclectic market in the Central Business District with shops selling African goods, fresh flowers and meats. Friendly vendors invite you to take a look at their African handicrafts like wooden animal statues, beaded masks, leather sandals, landscape paintings, colorful woven textiles, baskets and bags. Between the things shops are a couple small produce stands. The exterior of the building is painted with murals and patterns representing the country.  Fragrant flower stands line the sidewalks surrounding the building. A meat market with butchers, fish mongers and strong smells occupies the side of it. 

Maasai Market.  A traditional handicrafts market consisting of local vendors selling handmade Kenyan and Maasai goods. Aisles of tents line a parking lot, each merchandised with a variety of items. We saw stone and wooden statuettes of animals, Maasai beaded jewelry and masks, wooden kitchenware and serveware, colorful and patterned textiles, natural woven bags and baskets, African spears and shields, brass metalwork and canvas paintings. We left purchasing a shoulder bag, two rings, beaded jewelry, a cooking paddle and a bird statuette. 

• How to Works. The market is intimidating at first. Before reaching it, several men surrounded and followed us inside. They do not leave you alone, tell you any prices or let you purchase directly from vendors. Instead, they act as “chaperones,” collecting items from vendors that you select. After walking you through the market, they display all of the goods you selected and make an outrageous offer. 

• Haggle.  Now the haggling begins! Counter with an offer between 10-20% of their asking price. Let them make you a “special price” but hold firm on your offer. The price will continue to drop, especially as you walk away. They want to make a sale after chaperoning you through the market. Let them win a little and go up 10% from your first offer. They’ll grudgingly agree, smile and offer a handshake. Do not pay more than 20-25% of their initial asking price. They’ll accept cash or credit card. 

• Pro Tip.  You can see and purchase many of the same goods at roadside shops across the country. If going on a safari, you will inevitably find yourself in one during rest stops. Save yourself some hassle and purchase goods from here.

Nairobi National Park

A national park and protected wildlife reserve on the edge of Nairobi. It’s home to a wide range of African animals while still in view of the city’s skyline. We went on a half day safari through the park, its vast savanna and grasslands. 

The Big Five.  The “Big Five” in Africa refers to the most difficult big game animals to spot on foot. We spotted three of the five during our safari, including rhinos, buffalo and a lion! A solo Lion walked slowly along the park’s dirt road as we observed from our safari truck. A pair of Cape Buffalo, recognizable by their dramatic horns feed in the grass. A critically endangered Black Rhino lurked in the bush. It offered us a fierce yet cute stare with its pointed horn and wiggling ears. A crash of threatened Southern White Rhinos stood in the savanna and several more slept near the road. We passed up close enough to hear them breathing.

Herds of Animals.  The constant herds of animals were an unbelievable sight! Black and white striped zebras, patterned giraffes, horned impalas, antelopes and hartebeests gathered throughout the reserve. A white rhino even surprised us as it walked from beyond a bush as we watched a tower of giraffes graze. 

Wild Game.  We spotted several other wild game on our safari. A lone hyena and curious jackals ran through the bush. A solo wildebeest tried to blend within a large dazzle of zebras. A warthog nestled in the grass. A troop of baboons sat grooming each other. A family of Roxk Hyrax, a tailless rodent, crawled over rocks. 

African Birds.  The park is home to native Kenyan and East African birds. We spotted varying species from the world’s largest to small and colorful birds. Ugandan Cranes with crowned heads stood near watering holes. Dozens of Guinea Fowl, a wild chicken, ran along the roadside. Vibrant blue and orange kingfishers rested on shrubs. Vultures watched from tree tops. Towering ostriches strutted across the savanna.

Watering Holes.  Watering holes are great gathering spots to observe wild game. Crocodiles lurked at the waters edge as a zebras drank and a flock of African Ibis landed nearby. Adult and baby hippos lounged in water, poking their large heads and backs above the surface.

Book a Safari.  A guided safari is the best way to visit the Nairobi National Park. We booked our Safari with Live in Love Kenya Tours and Travel. It included a guide and transportation in a 4x4 Safari Land Cruiser with a pop up roof. 

Good to Know.  Park entrance fees are not typically included in safaris and need to be paid separately. The animals and game are purely wild and can only be viewed from safari vehicles. They’re not lured or baited. It’s forbidden to get out of safari vehicles due to safely. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Nana Swahili Restaurant.  A Kenyan restaurant with a range of East African dishes. We dined here our first night in Nairobi, ordering two stews eaten by hand with Ugali and Chapatis. Try the red snapper cooked in coconut curry and maharagwe ya nazi, kidney beans cooked in a coconut béchamel. 

Connect Coffee.  A coffee shop and roastery with house roasted Kenyan coffee and fresh baked pastries. Try their hand brewed coffees or their specialty, Mt. Kilimanjaro, a layered coffee made with espresso, cream and chocolate.

Hero Restaurant & Bar.  A super hero themed bar on a roof top overlooking the Gigiri neighborhood and Nairobi skyline. The interior is painted in murals of superhero’s and chairs are embellished with their logos. Order cocktails from their superhero and sidekick inspired menu printed on a comic book. It’s been rated as one of the Top 50 Bars in the world. Try the Captain’s Tea, Highly Sassy, Kijabe Kayama or Plantain Old Fashioned. 

Rosina’s.  A Swahili and Indian fusion restaurant. Ordered a curried and spiced seafood platter to share with lobster, calamari, crab, oysters, shrimp and fish. It came with Kenyan chipati and a spread of sauces. For dessert, a saffron icecream with peanuts, chia, jellies and noodles. 

Kenyan Cuisine

Kenyan cuisine is flavorful, fresh and aromatic. A staple of the cuisine are various forms of one pot dishes. We tasted and cooked several local meals consisting of hearty grains, warm spices, a range of vegetables. 

• Ugali.  A commonly eaten white corn flour mash used to scoop stews and curries by hand. Roll a small lump into a ball, press an indentation in the center and scoop using your right hand.  

• Chapati.  A type of roti used to scoop stews and curries by hand. 

• Sukuma Wiki.  A dish made from sautéed collared greens or spinach, onions, tomatoes and spices. It’s eaten by hand with Ugali. 

• Kachumbari.  A salad made with chopped tomatoes, red onions and chili peppers. 

• Pilau.  A hearty and flavorful “one pot” rice dish made with aromatic spices, onions, tomatoes, potatoes and a protein like beef, chicken or soy. 

• Matoke.  A one pot dish made with stewed green bananas, vegetables and a range of savory spices. 

• Githeri.  A stew made from corn, beans, arrowroot and a mix of aromatic spices. It’s eaten with Ugali. 

• Rolex.  A chipati with an omelette rolled up inside. It gets its name from the phrase, “rolled eggs.”

• Samosas.  A common snack across Kenya brought over by Indian influences. The dough packets are stuffed with spices, potatoes and peas.

• Ugi.  A hearty porridge made from finger millet grains and warm spices. It’s a common breakfast dish across East Africa. 

• Mandazi.  Fried donuts made from puff pastry and a hint of cardamom. They’re eaten with coffee or tea. 

• Bush Honey.  Wild flower honey produced by bush bees. It has a dark color and very floral flavor. 

• Chai.  A black milk tea brewed with warm spices like pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, ginger and coriander. 

• Tusker Beer.  One of Kenya’s national beers. Its logo is of a tusker African elephant. Try the lager and cider. 

Where to Stay

Mushembi Airbnb.  We stayed in a two bedroom apartment in Ngara with a kitchen and in unit laundry. It was a comfortable and spacious place with Kenyan decor including beaded masks, woven baskets, colorful textiles and wooden animal sculptures. 

Khweza Bed and Breakfast.  A centrally located and affordable hotel with comfortable rooms, included breakfast, laundry service and a rooftop restaurant serving traditional Kenyan cuisine. We ordered the coconut fish, ugali with sukuma, a rolex and masala fires. Reserve on Booking.

Location Specifics

The Dry Season.  The best time to visit Kenya is from June to August during the dry season. It makes for the best time to spot wild game in the parks and reserves. The “Big Five,” Lions, Cheetah, Elephants, Rhino and Buffalo are most active during the cooler months while in search for water. This time of year also coincides with winter. Temperatures around Nairobi are chilly, ranging between lows of 50F to highs of 70F. 

Right vs Left Hand.  The right hand is used for everything from eating, receiving or giving and greeting people. The left hand is considered dirty and used for personal hygiene. Avoid using it when interacting with others or eating. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water in Nairobi not safe to drink unless boiled or treated. Generally stick to filtered or bottled water for drinking, brushing teeth and cooking with. 

Tipping.  Tipping when dining out is not expected however leaving 10% is greatly appreciated for good service. Tipping tour guides, drivers, cooks and porters a safaris is expected. In general, plan to tip the equivalent of $10 USD per day per guide and $5 USD per day per cook, porter and driver. 

Cash vs Card.  Businesses in Nairobi are mostly cash free, accepting credit other than debit card payments. Still, it’s valuable to carry Kenyan Shillings incase card is not accepted. 

General Safety.  Nairobi is rough around the edges. Be aware of your surroundings and maintain a low profile. Don’t walk around alone or in unfamiliar areas at night. Don’t wear jewelry or name brands. Don’t openly carry valuables like phones or cash. Avoid taking photos on the streets or of people. Dismiss people that approach you on the street. Avoid protests, police and any situation that could lead to confrontation.

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Kenyan laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Pre-Airport Security Check.  Before entering the airport, there is a roadside security check. Passengers have to pass through metal detectors while their bags are scanned or sniffed by dogs. It’s common practice in East Africa. 

Language.  English is commonly spoken across Kenya. Many people also speak Swahili, an East African language. 

Swahili Phrases 

Jambo.  A common greeting. When someone says Jambo, respond back with Jambo as a sign of mutual respect. 

Mambo.  A more informal version of Jambo. It’s often said amongst friends. 

Karibu.  A greeting meaning welcome or used as you’re welcome.

Asante.  Thank you. 

Asante Sana.  Thank you very much. 

Hakuna Matata.  To quote the Lion King, it means “no worries” or no troubles. It is a genuine Swahili phrase though mostly said between locals and travelers. 

Getting Around 

Bolt or Uber.  Both ride hailing apps are popular and readily available across Nairobi. Bolt is generally cheaper. Uber specifically has an affordable ride option called Chap Chaps for short distances within the city. We used them to get around everywhere we needed to go. 

Elsewhere in Kenya

From Nairobi's vibrant neighborhoods and food scene to the wildlife rich plains of the Maasai Mara, continue exploring Kenya's diverse experiences.

Kenya Safari Guide: The Great Migration, Big Five & Maasai Mara.  Experience Kenya's legendary safari landscapes through the Great Migration, Big Five wildlife encounters, Maasai culture and unforgettable game drives.

For Next Time…

Next time we visit Kenya, we plan to explore the country’s coastal towns, its highest mountain and largest lake. 

Mt. Kenya.  The second highest mountain peak in Africa and tallest in Kenya. It’s surrounded by hiking trails, campgrounds and forest reserves. We plan to return and camp overnight along the extinct volcano’s trails. 

Lake Victoria.  A vast freshwater lake boarding Kenya, Rwanda, Uganda and Tanzania. 

Mombasa Old Town.  An old town in the port city of Mombasa. Its history and streets have been shaped by a range of colonial powers and influences including the British, Portuguese, Persian, Arab and Indian. 

Lamu Old Town.  A historic coastal city and one of the oldest Swahili settlements in East Africa.

Komodo Islands Travel Guide: Komodo Dragons, Island Adventures & Marine Life

The Komodo Islands

Komodo is an exotic Indonesian destination mystified by its dragons, picturesque landscapes, underwater marine life and pink sand beaches. The port city of Labuan Bajo is the hub for experiences in the region including live aboard charters to the islands of Komodo National Park. 

Komodo Live Aboard

The best way to experience the Komodo Islands is on a Live Aboard. Boat operators across Labuan Bajo offer multi-night tours visiting the Komodo, its islands, beaches and reefs. We booked a 3 day 2 night tour on The Dinara with Amaze Vacations. It included all activities, a private cabin and all meals. 

The Dinara.  Our vessel for the three days touring the Komodo Islands. The beautiful wooden ship has comfortable private cabins and communal decks. We stayed in the Krakatau Room, one of the few rooms with windows on two sides and a private balcony! It was both adventurous and glamorous. 

Pro Tip.  Book your Live Aboard when you arrive! This gives you the best chance to coordinate around the weather. As planners, we booked months ahead of time but had hazy and rainy weather the dates of our tour.

Komodo National Park 

Komodo National Park is home to the Komodo Dragons! The park consists of several protected islands with dramatic landscapes, picturesque beaches and thriving marine life.

Komodo Island.  The largest island in Komodo National Park with the largest population of Komodo Dragons. We visited Komodo Village and were lead by local guides through the hillside. We didn’t have to walk too far before spotting three Komodo Dragons. One was shading under a tree, a giant one was resting along a dried up river and a third was sleeping in a nest made between tree roots. 

Our Recommendation.  Though we got to see Komodo Dragons, we don’t recommend booking a tour that visits the Komodo Village. It’s very touristy and the place is unfortunately littered with plastic and trash. Instead, go to the Komodo National Park Office and hike from there.  

Padar Island Sunrise.  A rugged island with hiking trails, crescent shaped coves and pink sand beaches. After spending a night on the ship, we woke up early to hike to the summit for sunrise. The trail leads along the island’s crest to different panoramic viewpoints. We sat near the top and watched the sunrise illuminate the island as it rose.

Padar Island Pink Beach.  A sandy beach made up of finely eroded grains of red and white corals. The mixture gives the beach a pinkish hue. The turquoise colored water offers stunning contrast to pink sand. The color is most vibrant right after a wave washes on shore. There are several pink sand beaches around the Komodo Islands.

Pulau Karangan.  A vibrant and shallow water coral reef teeming with marine life. It feels like being inside of an aquarium as thousands of colorful and tropical fish swim in all directions. Abstract looking corals cover the ocean floor as currents flow along a steep drop off. It was some of the best snorkeling we’ve ever done, however signs of stress and bleaching were evident in several parts of the reef. 

Komodo Manta Ray Point.  A snorkeling point where manta rays are frequently said to visit. We didn’t spot any but stuck around to snorkel and free dive in the deep blue waters. Down below, layers of large coral formations grow on top on each other as reef fish live within. 

Manjarite Reef.  A coral reef off shore from the Manjarite Beach with a sprawling coral garden and layers of large coral formations. We swam with all types of tropical fish and sea turtles!

Kelor Island.  A small island with a hiking trail leading to its summit with views of the surrounding islands, anchored boats and blue waters below. We snorkeled near the beach, spotting black tipped reef sharks and puffer fish.  

Taka Makasar.  A sandbar island surrounded by swimmable turquoise waters. We snorkeled and spotted small black tipped reef sharks. Further offshore we saw a pod of dolphins swimming between the anchored wooden ships.

Bats of Pulau Kalong.  Shortly after sunset, thousands of giant bats emerge from the forest on Kalong Island and take flight over the bay. Their dark silhouettes flutter overhead, contrasting the warm colors of the early evening sky. It was a serene and beautiful sight to watch from the top of our live aboard boat.

Labuan Bajo

Labuan Bajo is the main city on the island of Flores and entry point to Komodo National Park. The town surrounded by lush hills with hiking trails, beaches and lookout points. Its harbor is dotted with fishing boats and traditional wooden ships for live aboard tours. It’s worth spending a couple of days here either before or after booking a live aboard. 

Soekarno Hatta Street.  A narrow palm lined street passing through the center of Labuan Bajo with restaurants, cafes, dive shops, tour offices and massage spas. 

Waterfront Promenade.  The city’s waterfront promenade overlooks the harbor and its many anchored ships. It’s a beautiful walk for the sunset and to enjoy local festivities after dark. 

Pavillon Off Shore.  A waterfront boardwalk ending at an overwater pavilion with views of the harbor and dozens of anchored ships. It’s a calm spot for enjoying the tranquil views and scenery.

Wills Hills.  A lookout point at the tip of Labuan Bajo with views of the islands and ocean. We spotted wild monkeys in the trees and a school of shark circling in the water below. Many people come here for the sunset.

Sylvia Beach.  A crescent shaped tan sand beach overlooking the bay. The calm blue waters are perfect for swimming & sunbathing. The beach is located at the Sylvia Resort Komodo. The beach is free to enter for non-guests that purchase anything from the restaurant or bar. 

Sylvia Hill.  A hill above Sylvia Beach with views of the bay, island and sunset. It’s a popular local spot reachable after a 10 minutes hike from a roadside parking lot.

Puncak Waringin.  An observation deck at one of the tallest points in town. It has sweeping views of the harbor, islands and golden sunset. Tickets costs 50K Rupiah. For a free view with similar perspectives, visit the Photo Spot Labuan Bajo. It’s only a minute walk down the street.

Cunca Walung Waterfall.  A jungelous river canyon with a waterfall at its end. The canyon is reachable after walking 15 minutes down a forested nature trail and across a planked suspension bridge. At the canyon, we jumped from a rock cliff into the river and swam upstream to the base of the waterfall. Mist sprayed all around us and between the smoothed and curved canyon walls. Following the current back downstream we swam in the refreshing river and explored the eroded rock pools. 

Good to Know.  The entry fee costs 100K Rupiah per person and includes a guide. 

Rangko Cave.  A coastal cave with a flooded and swimmable chamber. During the mid-afternoon, from roughly 2-3:30pm, sunlight streams inside, illuminating its interior and aquamarine colored water. We swam around, viewing the stalactites and watching the birds fly from their nests. There is a small beach before the trail leading to the cave with a snack vendor and restrooms. The cave is only reachable by boat. 

Getting Here.  We hired our airport taxi driver for the day to bring us to the Cunca Walung Waterfall, Rangko Cave and Sylvia Hill Sunset Point. He charged 1.5 million Rupiah (about $90 USD at the time) for full transportation including the boat.

Labuan Bajo Fish Market.  An nightly seafood market with dozens of street side kitchens barbecuing the day’s catch. Colorful arrangements of fresh fish like grouper, snapper, mahi mahi and parrot fish are displayed on icy tables. Live mantis shrimp, lobsters, crabs, oysters and clams sit in tubs of water and bottles. Smoke from the bbq grills wafts through the air as locals and travelers feast under awnings on the promenade. Shop around for the best looking seafood and prices to match. We ordered a grilled grouper, mantis shrimp and coconut from Kodak Para Ikatte.

Places to Eat & Drink

Naga Bar.  An overwater bar at the end of a snaking boardwalk. The menu features tiki style drinks and signature cocktails inspired by the folklore and goddesses of Flores. It’s located at the AYANA Resort and open to non-guests. 

Waroeng Labuan Bajo.  A second floor restaurant overlooking the harbor of Labuan Bajo. They serve traditional Indonesian dishes including vegetarian and halal options. We came here for our first lunch, ordering with the national beer, Bintang.

Happy Banana.  A very popular cafe and restaurant with a wide ranging menu including coffees, smoothie bowls, vegetarian dishes, sushi and poke.

Komodough.  A tiny cafe with a very clever name. They sell strong coffees and a variety of pastries. Try the pandan croissant and pandan coconut roll for local flavors. 

Copper Bonnet.  A restaurant with a cocktail menu themed after Magellan’s voyage around the world. The menu features about two dozen signature cocktails, each with local and regional ingredients tied to a specific point in the voyage. Try the Burn The Ship and Coconut Palm. 

Indonesian Cuisine

Nasi Goreng.  Vegetable fried rice, an Indonesian staple commonly served on menus around the country. It’s a popular breakfast dish.

Mi Goreng.  The same as nasi goreng, except made with noodles instead of rice. 

Gado Gado.  Lightly steamed or boiling vegetables served with a spicy peanut sauce. 

Batagor.  Fried banana, tempe or tofu stuffed with glass noodles and veggies. It’s a very common street food dish in East Java and eaten for breakfast or a mid day snack. 

Tempeh.  Fermented and spouted soybeans formed into a protein patty or block. A common preparation is Tempeh Lada Hitam, tempeh cooked in a black pepper sauce.

Sayur Lodeh.  A spiced coconut stew cooked with tempeh, eggplant, tomatoes and green beans. 

Bintang.  Indonesia’s national beer. It’s a light beer perfect for the perpetually hot afternoons and evenings.

Sambal.  Indonesians love spicy food. The source of the heat is often sambal, a minced mixture of Thai chili peppers, shallots and garlic.

Location Specifics

When to Visit. Visit during the peak of the dry season, in mid June. The weather was sunny and bright most days with the occasional afternoon storm.

Shoes Off Indoors.  Like many places in Asia, it’s proper to remove shoes before entering home or some shops. 

Plastic Pollution.  Unfortunately plastic pollutes many of the harbors, beaches and lookout points around Komodo. 

Islamic Customs.  Indonesia is an Islamic country. The call to prayer is present in most places. Modesty and respect in all forms are the most important customs to follow.

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Indonesian laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Getting Around 

On Foot.  The town of Labuan Bajo small and easily walkable. 

By Taxi.  Taxis and motos are plentiful around town. Most locals will offer a ride anywhere around town, to and from the airport or to the resorts outside of town for 100K Rupiah. 

Elsewhere in Indonesia 

From the Komodo Islands' wildlife encounters and coral reefs to East Java's volcanoes, Bali's beaches and Ubud's cultural traditions, discover more of Indonesia through these travel guides:

East Java Travel Guide: Mount Bromo, Ijen & Tumpak Sewu.  Trek through East Java from Mount Bromo and Ijen Crater to Tumpak Sewu Waterfall, where volcanic landscapes and jungle trails reveal Indonesia's dramatic natural wonders.

Bali Travel Guide: Canggu, Beaches & Island Adventures.  Experience Bali where sacred temples, rice paddies, black sand beaches, surf breaks and vibrant beach clubs embody Balinese culture and island life.

Ubud Travel Guide: Rice Terraces, Sacred Temples & Balinese Culture.  Wander through Ubud where expansive rice terraces, jungle trails, volcanic hikes, Hindu temples and the Sacred Monkey Forest preserve the cultural heart of Bali.

For Next Time…

Seeing the pink sand beaches, stunning coral reefs and Komodo dragons themselves left us in a sense of awe and wanting to see more. Next time we return, we have a few ideas of what we would see and do. 

Rinca.  A lesser visited island regarded by those who have as being one of the best kept secrets of the Komodo Islands. It has Komodo Dragons, scenic landscapes, coral reefs and sunset views. 

Spiderweb Rice Terraces.  An indigenous method of growing rice on Flores with tiered rice terraces shaped like a spider web. The best time of year to visit is during the rainy season when they’re in full sprout. 

Scuba Diving.  We saw over a dozen dive shops with scuba tours in Labuan Bajo. Several of which offer introductory dives in the Komodo Islands for people without licenses. 

Cebu Travel Guide: Whale Sharks, Canyoning & Wildlife

Cebu, Philippines 

Cebu is an island destination in the Philippines known for its thrilling outdoor adventures, underwater excursions and memorable wildlife encounters. The island is a hub in the region to visit neighboring islands and destinations across the country.

An Island of Adventures 

The underwater world is teeming with an incredible array of life. Outrigger boats ferried us to coral reefs and ocean drop offs where we snorkeled and free dived with giant whale sharks, tens of thousands of sardines and sea turtles. On land, we zip-lined above tropical forests, cannoneered down a turquoise river, swam through waterfalls, jumped from cliffs, boated up jungleous rivers, overlooked the “chocolate hills” and spotted wild tarsiers. 

Kawasan Falls & Canyoning 

Kawasan Falls is a three tiered cascading waterfall flowing from a turquoise colored mountain river. The river flows down a canyon popular for guided canyoneering adventures with hiking, swimming, cliff jumping, natural waterslides and trapeze style swings.

Jungle Zip Line.  The day starts with a 3 hour car ride from Cebu and a further 15 minutes up the mountain on motor bike to reach the jungle zip line. Strapped into body harnesses, we zip-lined 1km side by side, like superheroes, across a lush valley to reach the trail head and river.

Kawasan River Canyon.  We plunged feet first into the river and swam briefly down stream with the flow of the current. The bright turquoise hued water seemed to glow all around us. Lead by our guides, we traversed the river canyon and several natural obstacles. We jumped off 7 meter tall cliffs into deep river pools, slid down a natural waterslide and swam through narrow channels & small caves.

Kawasan Falls.  We experienced the three tiers of Kawasan Falls from the top down. The uppermost tier spills down rapids, through a narrow cliff and over a 15 meter tall drop. The second tier pours over a wide cliff into a  turquoise river pool. We swam behind the waterfall and dove through it back into the lagoon. Downstream a rope swing sways from a cliff into a separate pool near the top of the final tier. The last tier is a forked waterfall that flows into a large turquoise river pool. We swam in its vibrant water while admiring the natural beauty of the waterfall. Book with Cebu Tours on Viator. 

Swimming with Whale Sharks

One of the absolute highlights of our time in the Philippines was swimming with the whale sharks! The giant creatures feed just off the coast from the town of Oslob. They’re lured with krill early each morning as snorkelers observe from outrigger canoes and beneath the surface. We snorkeled along side these magical giants, watching as they gracefully swam by. They sucked in krill through their large mouths, slowing waving their fins and tails as they brushed past. Their unique striped and spotted pattern was mesmerizing to see up close. Their impressive size reached lengths of 10 meters, far longer than our boat. We spent about 30 minutes in the water with them before saying goodbye. 

Tumalog Waterfall.  A dramatic waterfall that cascades down a 100 meter tall cliff surrounded by lush tropical forest. The cliff is a natural green wall, covered in ferns, moss and plants. Water spills over protruding rocks and nodules before reaching the natural pool at its base. We stood beneath it, letting the cool and refreshing water shower us. It’s an easy sight to see after swimming with the whale sharks. Book with Cebu Tours on Viator. 

The Sardine Run

The Sardine Run is an incredible spectacle just off shore from the town of Moalboal. Beneath the surface, swirling masses of shimmering sardines swim in vast schools numbering in the tens to hundreds of thousands. We snorkeled and free dived around them, breaking through walls of fish and watching them part ways in perfect unison. It was a surreal experience to experience a sardine run and swim with so many fish. 

Pescador Island.  A small and unassuming island in the middle of the Tanon Strait. Surrounding it is a thriving coral reef and a 100 meter drop off descending into the deep blue abyss. Strange looking coral formations grow from the reef and its cliffside. They’re home to tropical fish, vibrant blue sea stars, pulsing jellyfish and unseen marine life. We snorkeled and free dived but can only imagine what it’s like to see with scuba gear.

Good to Know. We navigated around pods of golf ball sized jellyfish with long stringy tentacles. Their stings were mild but uncomfortable. We’d recommend wearing a rash guard or wetsuit to protect your skin. On the bright side, the jellyfish attracted a hungry sea turtle eager to feast on them. Motors on outrigger canoes and tour boats are extremely loud. Bring headphones or ear plugs to avoid hearing loss. Book with Cebu Tours on Viator. 

Bohol Island 

A large tropical island across the Cebu Strait with picturesque landscapes, reserves with endemic primates and Spanish colonial era sights. We explored the island on a day trip from Cebu. 

Chocolate Hills.  A landscape covered in over 1,000 domed and conical shaped hills. We visited the Chocolate Hills Viewing Deck, a lookout on top of one of the hills. From the view point we overlooked hundreds of them dotting the countryside. At the time, the hills were covered in green grass and called the name, “Avocado Hills” by our guide. During the peak of the dry season, the grass dries giving them their name, Chocolate Hills. 

Tarsier Conservation Area.  A conservation area home to the second smallest type of primate, the tarsier. The cute animals are no larger than a closed fist. They’re recognizable large buggy eyes and tiny bodies. They’re nocturnal but occasionally open their wide eyes and stare out. We spotted them clinging onto thin trees trunks under canopies of leaves.

Pro Tip.  Despite their size, they’re easy to spot. Skip the first few where people are gathering and follow the trail to spot the ones further in. 

Loboc River.  A green hued river flanked by verdant mountains and lush tropical forest. Palm trees lean over its banks as children swing from ropes into the water. Cold springs and small waterfalls flow into the river at its source. We cruised upstream on a floating restaurant serving classic Filipino dishes while enjoying the picturesque views and musical performances. A barge with locals danced the Tinikling, a traditional folk dance. Participants hop between bamboo poles as they’re smacked together following the rhythm of the music. We were invited up to join in after feasting on a Filipino lunch. 

Spanish Colonial Sights.  Stop at the Bacalyon Church, the oldest Spanish colonial church on the island and the Blood Compact Monument, the sight where the Spanish Conquistadors made a blood pact with the local tribe.

Getting Here.  We took a round trip ferry from the Cebu City to the Tagbilaran in Bohol with Ocean JetFast Ferries. It takes 2 hours to make the crossing with boats operating from early morning to after sunset. Book with Explore Cebu Tours & Travel on Viator.

Places to Eat & Drink 

Two restaurants we dined at in Cebu City gave us a flavor for home style local cuisine and elevated Asian flavors. 

Pig & Palm.  A higher end restaurant with a tapas style menu serving contemporary Asian cuisine. We ordered a spread of artfully arranged dishes including nori rice crackers, squid ink croquettes, miso glazed octopus, chargrilled carrots, steamed snapper and trio of banana desserts. It was an impressive feast as tasty as it was pretty.

Marjo’s Pochero.  A local restaurant serving traditional Filipino dishes. Try the smoked bangus, crab relleno, vegetable chop suey and garlic rice.

Filipino Cuisine 

Having spent three weeks island hopping across the Philippines, we ate and cooked many traditional Filipino dishes. 

Kinilaw.  A Filipino style ceviche made with vinegar washed seafood mixed calamansi lime juice, coconut cream, red onions, hot peppers and ginger. 

Adobo.  A national dish of the Philippines seen on menus across the country. Its base has a seared protein simmered with a sticky soy sauce glaze made with vinegar, brown sugar and pepper. 

Garlic Rice.  Rice cooked with fresh or fried pieces of garlic. It’s served with almost every meal.

Lumpia.  The beloved Filipino style spring roll stuffed with a protein. It’s typically served deep fried and crispy. We made a version using local Bangus fish.

Banana Turon.  A breakfast or dessert style lumpia made with fresh banana filling and sometimes ube jam.

Bangsilog.  A traditional Filipino breakfast pairing with grilled or fried fish, fried eggs and white rice.

Pancit.  A commonly served noodle dish stirfried with carrots and cabbage. 

Champorado.  A chocolaty rice porridge made with cocoa powder and evaporated milk. 

Calamansi Juice.  A Filipino juice made with calamansi limes. It has a citrus flavor similar to a mixture of lime, lemon and orange. 

Taho.  A layered dessert made with silken tofu, tapioca pearls and brown sugar sauce. It’s a common street food dish sold by vendors carrying large steel tins.

Halo Halo.  A Filipino “ice cream sunday” layered with a variety of different toppings including shaved ice, sweetened condensed milk, ice cream, sweet corn, red beans, peanuts, banana, mango, ube, jellies and cereals. 

Ube.  A starchy root vegetable famed for its deep purple color. It’s cooked down into a number of dishes, mostly desserts. We used it to make a sweet jam using a Filipino friend’s family recipe. 

Getting Around 

Grab.  The Southeast Asian ride hailing app is readily available across the city and between the airport. Rides between the airport and city center cost around 600 pesos. 

Where to Stay

Stay in Cebu City, using the location as a hub to explore the island. We stayed in an apartment at Cityscape Grand Tower in Cebu City. The central location madetourpick ups and drop offs easy as well as provided us with options for nearby restaurants. Book on Airbnb. 

Elsewhere in The Philippines

From Cebu's whale sharks, waterfalls and outdoor adventures to Palawan's tropical islands and Siargao's surf culture, discover more of the Philippines through these travel guides:

Palawan Travel Guide: El Nido, Island Adventures & Tropical Beaches.  Set sail through Palawan's crystal clear lagoons, limestone cliffs, coral reefs and white sand beaches in one of the Philippines' most spectacular island destinations.

Siargao Travel Guide: Surfing, Island Adventures & Filipino Cuisine.  Ride the waves in Siargao where Cloud 9 surf breaks, turquoise lagoons, palm fringed islands and Filipino cuisine embody the island's relaxed rhythm and adventurous spirit.

Siargao Travel Guide: Surfing, Island Adventures & Filipino Cuisine

Siargao, Philippines

Siargao is sleepy palm covered island and the surf capital of the Philippines. It’s local atmosphere, tropical vibes and relaxed way of life exudes paradise. At sea, surfers ride waves on colorful boards, outrigger boats speckle the shoreline and captains ferry visitors to nearby islands. In town, palm thatched and tin roofed buildings enhance the island vibes while tuk tuks and scooters zip around streets. Siargao is home to a mix of locals and foreign expats enjoying life in paradise. Fishermen sell the daily catch at the public market, digital nomads work away at cafes and tourists unwind on vacation. 

Towns on Siargao

General Luna.  Siargao’s main town and hub for tourism. It’s located on the southeast side of the island. Its main road is home to all types of businesses including vibey cafes, Asian restaurants, cocktail bars, ice cream shops, tattoo studios, small produce markets and surf shops.

Del Carmen.  A small town on the northwest side of the island close to the airport. It’s a very local place and often less visited. The town is a jumping off point to visit the Sugba Lagoon, the Del Carmen Mangrove Forest and to try Filipino cuisine at roadside carinderias. 

Things to in Siargao

Go Surfing!  Siargao is the surf capital of the Philippines. One thing that can’t be missed is taking a surf lesson and riding some waves. 

• Cloud 9 Surf Beach.  Cloud 9 is one of the best spots for beginners and advanced surfers to ride consistent waves along a lengthy surf break during high tide. Colorful rows of surfboards are stacked along the beachfront while instructors wait nearby offering lessons. Access to the beach costs 100 pesos. 

• Happy Islanders Surf Club.  A surf school near Cloud 9. Instructors offer private lessons by the hour on fiberglass boards. We booked a two hour lesson, refreshing our knowledge of surfing basics, learning new skills and catching several waves. 

• Good to Know.  The afternoon lineups can get pretty crowded causing occasional collisions. Be cautious when falling off the board. The water is very shallow and rocky. 

Stay for Sunset.  The Cloud 9 Surf Beach & Boardwalk comes to life around sunset. A long wooden pier reaches out over the rocky shallows offering views of the island, warmly lit sky and groups of surfers. 

Pro Tip.Find a snack lady selling cassava chips with chocolate drizzle. 

Jacking Horse Trail.  A palm lined beachfront trail at Cloud 9 with surf rentals, cafes and restaurants. There’s a small ice cream kiosk serving avocado and mango soft serve. Visit Pop Up Bar Siargao after sunset to relax in hammocks and beanbag chairs under twinkle lights and palm trees as a musician performs. 

Shop at the General Luna Community Market.  The town’s main farmers market is a hub for locally sourced produce, meats and especially seafood. Located on the beach, fishermen deliver the day’s catch directly to the market each morning and mid afternoon. Piles of colorful reef fish, large yellowfin tuna and all types of sea creatures are sold by the kilo. Other vendors display stacks of eggs, cleanly plucked chickens, butchered pieces of pork, freshly harvested fruits, all types of vegetables, herbs and roots. Traveling on a budget, we shopped here for groceries needed to make local dishes back at our tropical hut. 

Walk the Del Carmen Mangrove Boardwalk.  The Del Carmen Mangrove Forest is the largest mangrove forest in the Philippines. A lengthy and winding boardwalk leads deep into its lush expanse and flowing waterways. Educational signs are posted along the route explaining the forest’s biodiverse importance and climatic significance. It makes for a peaceful walk in nature when visiting Del Carmen. 

Get a Tattoo.  Dozens of tattoo shops and studios around the island offer plenty of opportunities to get fresh ink. We visited Irie Tattoo for tattoos, getting a sea urchin and fish skeleton. Most studios offer walk ins and are cash only. 

Eat at a Carinderia.  Carinderias areFilipino restaurants with a spread of home cooked dishes served in metal trays or pots. They’re an affordable way to try the local cuisine including noodle and rice dishes, meat and veggie stews, fried chicken, fish and lumpia.

Hire a Human Drone.  A uniquely Filipino style of taking videos. The “human drone” uses a phone to film a group or scene in fast swooping, swirling and dramatic motions mimicking that of an actual drone. Most tour guides throughly enjoy providing the service. 

Island Tours 

The island tours are one of the best ways to see the natural beauty of Siargao and its nearby islands. We booked three tours during our week here at Siargao INT'L Travel & Tours. They have a small tour office General Luna along “Tourism Road.”

Siargao Land Tour 

Land tours offer visitors a chance to witness the vast palm groves, beaches, lagoons, tidal pools and waterways of Siargao in one day. 

Coconut Viewpoint.  A roadside lookout in the center of the island with views of the tropical palm forest spanning across the valley. 

Secret Beach.  A tidal beach on an inlet only visible during low tide. Its shaded coconut grove offers a relaxing place to enjoy the tropical scenery. 

Magpopongko Rock Pools and Flats.  A beach with tidal pools large enough for people to swim. They’re surrounded by shallow pools with marine creatures and plant life.

Maasin River.  A palm lined river with boardwalk and platform for jumping off of. There are street vendors near the bridge overlooking it selling river oysters and offering canoe tours.

Sugba Lagoon.  An island lagoon with emerald green waters surrounded by tree covered hills. At the lagoon’s center is an island with kayak rentals, swimming areas and a diving platform. The voyage into the lagoon passes dense mangroves, lush islands and stilt villages.

Sohoton Island Tour

Sohoton is remote island west of Siargao home to a series of small tropical islands, emerald hued waterways, flooded caves and lagoons with stingless jellyfish. The islands are only accessible via small outrigger canoes and local tour operators. 

Hagukan Cave.  A flooded cave accessible after swimming through a shallow entrance into its main chamber. The ceiling was dripping with stalactites while the water glowed emerald green as sunlight reflected in. 

Magkukuob Cave.  A flooded cave with stalactites and bats hanging from the chamber ceiling. We walked up one of the steep cliffs over stalagmites to an opening in the rock. On the other side was a wooden platform about 4 meters above the water. One by one, we exited the cave, jumping from the platform and swimming back to our outrigger canoe.

Jellyfish Sanctuary.  A secluded and sheltered lagoon home to a rare variety of stingless jellyfish. We jumped from the outrigger canoe into the jellyfish abundant waters. Small golden jellyfish pulsed all around us as we swam. Deep below the surface, large iridescent blue jellyfish pushed through the waters. It was a surreal and disarming experience swimming with these typically threatening creatures. 

Dagatan Sifai Resort.  A restaurant with a long yellow waterslide and diving platform leading into the lagoon. While waiting for lunch, we slid down the slide and splashed down into the water. Together with our tour group, we feasted on a Boodle Fight, a traditional Filipino style communal meal consisting of seafood, chicken, lumpia, fresh fruits, seaweed, noodles and rice all artfully arranged on banana leaves into an edible spread. 

Tri Island Tour 

The Tri Island Tour is most accessible tour from General Luna stopping at three off shore islands and a sand bar. 

Secret Island.  A shallow sand bar and swimming area in the middle of the bay. Outrigger canoes anchor around it and passengers jump off into the aqua colored water. 

Guyam Island.  A tiny palm covered island with beach shacks serving fried foods, fresh coconuts and snacks. There is a small swimming area and beach for relaxing. All around the island are many staged photo spots and drones flying overhead. We nicked named the spot Instagram island. 

Naked Island.  A small sand island in the middle of the bay completely void of any palm trees or foliage. We spotted a few star fish in the rocks around the island.

Daku Island.  A large palm covered island with dozens of picnic areas and restaurants serving Boodle Fights. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Siargao has a wide range of places to eat and drink. The main road in General Luna is lined with places to enjoy a lazy brunch, vegan meal, Filipino dinner or late night cocktail. We visited several spots during our week on the island.

Places in General Luna 

Cosmic Siargao.  A restaurant & cafe specializing in vegan versions of traditionally meat forward Filipino dishes. We ordered a spread of dishes including:

• Kare Kare. A stew made with a savory peanut sauce, eggplant and tofu. 

• Bicol. A spicy coconut strew made with “meat,” string beans, onion and garlic. 

• Satay.  A classic southeast Asian skewer with marinated and barbecued “meat.”

Manu.  An island style cocktail bar nodding to the Filipino origins of tiki drinks and culture. Inside the warmly lit space, bartenders shake and stir classic tiki drinks and cocktails with a house twist. Try the Planters Punch!

Halika Siargao.  A popular ice cream and gelato shop serving classic and local flavors like ube, mango, pandan and cashew. 

Cabuntog Golden Bell Cafe.  A beachy cafe above a cute island boutique. Come here for banana pancakes, smoothie bowls, fresh fruits and coffees.

Karrose Bakeshop.  A traditional Filipino bakery with a glass display case featuring dozens of freshly baked breads, cookies, pastries and cakes. Try the Ube Swiss Roll. 

Last Chance.  An elevated cocktail bar with a moody yet tropical lounge, house cocktails and flavorful small plates. Try the Coconut Old Fashioned for a classic with an island twist, the Nutty Pailhog for a herbal and light rum drink or the Saging Palenque for something smoky and sweet. 

Las Palmas.  A tropical styled hotel restaurant with lush greenery and island decor under a tall palm thatched roof. Their menu features sweet and savory dishes, perfect for a late morning brunch!

El Chapo’s.  A Mexican inspired taqueria with tacos, tostadas and nachos. Ordered the spiked horchata with a shot of local rum!

Cafe Kokomo.  A small cafe along Jacking Horse Trail with lunchtime sandwiches and light bites. 

Al’s Beach & Pizza.  A restaurant at Cloud 9 with breakfast dishes, brick oven pizza, coffees and cocktails.

Places in Del Carmen 

The Mangroves.  A second floor restaurant overlooking the Del Carmen port with a variety of seafood dishes served in generous portions. Order the sizzling and fried shrimps, crab soup and whole grilled Pompano fish. For dessert, Halo Halo.

JB Bakeshop.  A local bakery with a glass display case filled with hundreds of Filipino pastries, cakes, cookies and breads. We ordered multiple bakes for a pastry breakfast.  

Sulima Eatery.  A classic carinderia in Del Carmen with a range of Filipino dishes sold by the plate. Try the lumpia, grilled fish, squash soup. We stopped here on our tour of Sugba Lagoon. 

Filipino Cuisine

Having spent three weeks island hopping across the Philippines, we ate and cooked many traditional Filipino dishes. 

Kinilaw.  A Filipino style ceviche made with vinegar washed seafood mixed calamansi lime juice, coconut cream, red onions, hot peppers and ginger. 

Adobo.  A national dish of the Philippines seen on menus across the country. Its base has a seared protein simmered with a sticky soy sauce glaze made with vinegar, brown sugar and pepper. 

Garlic Rice.  Rice cooked with fresh or fried pieces of garlic. It’s served with almost every meal.

Lumpia.  The beloved Filipino style spring roll stuffed with a protein. It’s typically served deep fried and crispy. We made a version using local Bangus fish.

Banana Turon.  A breakfast or dessert style lumpia made with fresh banana filling and sometimes ube jam.

Bangsilog.  A traditional Filipino breakfast pairing with grilled or fried fish, fried eggs and white rice.

Pancit.  A commonly served noodle dish stirfried with carrots and cabbage. 

Champorado.  A chocolaty rice porridge made with cocoa powder and evaporated milk.

Calamansi Juice.  A Filipino juice made with calamansi limes. It has a citrus flavor similar to a mixture of lime, lemon and orange. 

Taho.  A layered dessert made with silken tofu, tapioca pearls and brown sugar sauce. It’s a common street food dish sold by vendors carrying large steel tins.

Halo Halo.  A Filipino “ice cream sunday” layered with a variety of different toppings including shaved ice, sweetened condensed milk, ice cream, sweet corn, red beans, peanuts, banana, mango, ube, jellies and cereals. 

Ube.  A starchy root vegetable famed for its deep purple color. It’s cooked down into a number of dishes, mostly desserts. We used it to make a sweet jam using a Filipino friend’s family recipe. 

Where to Stay

Tropical Cozy Hut Retreat.  A jungelous cabin surrounded by palm trees and lush tropical foliage built with natural elements like bamboo, wood and palm thatch. The house has multiple outdoor spaces including a kitchen, living room and bathroom. We spent time relaxing outdoors every evening before retiring to the indoor bedroom. The cabin is located less than 10 minutes from town by tuk tuk. Book on Airbnb.

Sing Siargao.  A beautiful boutique hotel with several studio apartments. We visited a friend staying here, cooked breakfast together and dining on the room’s outdoor balcony. Reserve on Booking. 

Kopinos Tourist Inn.  A small hotel in the middle of Del Carmen with standard rooms and a communal kitchen. We stayed here for a night in between flights while island hopping. Reserve on Booking.

Getting Around 

Airport Transfer.  Vans wait at the airport to transfer guests to General Luna. Shared rides cost 300 pesos each. Private rides cost 2,500 pesos for the van. Tuk tuks to Del Carmen cost 400 pesos total.

Tuk Tuks.  The easiest wait to get around General Luna is by tuk tuk. Drivers frequently patrol the main road looking for fares. Rides anywhere in town cost 50 pesos each.

Location Specifics

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption. Only used bottled or filtered water to drink, cook or brush teeth with.

Insect Repellant.  Mosquitos are a real bother across the island. Wear insect repellent to avoid bites.

Sunblock.  Wear sunblock and bring enough of it with you to last the entirety of the trip. It’s extremely expensive to buy on the island. 

Cash.  The island is cash forward with few businesses accepting credit or debit card. Fortunately there are several ATMs throughout General Luna. 

Wreckless Drivers. If renting scooters, beware of wreckless and speeding drivers, especially tour vans. We saw multiple accidents across the island.

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Siargao is very welcoming and accepting of the LGBTQ+ community.

Island Tours.  The island tours can seem a bit shallow. Many of the tours are designed for people to take selfies or drone footage while time at some sights is very limited. 

Elsewhere in The Philippines

From Siargao's surf breaks and island lifestyle to Palawan's turquoise lagoons and Cebu's waterfalls and marine wildlife, continue exploring the Philippines with these travel guides:  

Palawan Travel Guide: El Nido, Island Adventures & Tropical Beaches.  Set sail through Palawan's crystal clear lagoons, limestone cliffs, coral reefs and white sand beaches in one of the Philippines' most spectacular island destinations.

Cebu Travel Guide: Whale Sharks, Canyoning & Wildlife.  Chase adventure in Cebu to swim with whale sharks and sardines, canyoneer at Kawasan Falls and island hop to Bohol's Chocolate Hills for experiences on land and water.

For Next Time…

We spent most of our week in General Luna on the southeast side of Siargao. When we return, we plan to explore Del Carmen in the west and the small surf towns in the north. Some highlights we missed are: 

Alegria Beach.  A white sand and palm lined beach near the island’s northernmost tip.

The Marvelous Somyot Cave.  A cave system with all types of rock formations and flooded chambers.

Pacifico Beach.  A beginners surfing beach with lessons, rentals and less crowds than Cloud 9. 

Taktak Falls.  A small waterfall with a natural swimming pool at its base.

Palawan Travel Guide: El Nido, Island Adventures & Tropical Beaches

Palawan, Philippines

Palawan is a tropical island in the Philippines home to breathtaking scenery and natural wonders. The island is a developing and welcoming destination that holds true to the its authenticity by preserving its culture and protecting its nature. Its shores are lined with white sand beaches, swaying palm trees, vibrant coral reefs and smaller islands. Rainforests and jagged cliffs stretch across the landscape as lagoons and caves lurk within. Captains of outrigger boats take travelers on tours or bring back the day’s fresh catch. Happy locals exchange smiles, strike up friendly conversations, sing nightly karaoke and share in their love of snacks. We spent over a week here between Puerto Princesa and El Nido, exploring the island’s beaches, lagoons, coral reefs and caves. 

Puerto Princesa  

Puerto Princesa is one of the main entry points to Palawan. It’s a traditional Filipino town home to local restaurants, rustic stays and access to other parts of the island, including the world renowned underground river.

Puerto Princesa Underground River 

The Puerto Princesa Underground River is the world’s longest navigable underground river. We toured a section of it by boat on a day trip from Puerto Princesa. 

Getting to the underground river was an adventure of its own. We were shuttled across the island along winding roads to the Sabang Boat Terminal, a pier dotted with colorful outrigger canoes. We boarded one and boated across the bay to reach a small beach. On shore, a trail lead through the forest, past wild monkeys, to the a boat launch and the cave entrance. 

Pro Tip.  Bring or rent ear protection to muffle the dangerously loud boat engines.  

The captain rowed us into the dark mouth of the cave, waiting a few moments for our eyes to adjust. The sounds of squeaking bats, swooshing swallows and continual drips of water echoed around us. The smell of guano was hard to ignore. Upriver are large chambers with various rock formations. Jagged stalactites, rippled surfaces and crystalline flow stones comprised the cave’s walls and ceilings. There is a strong emphasis on silence and not disturbing the cave environment. The capital pointed out key formations while an audio guide narrated. 

We booked our tour with Corazon Travel & Tours. Its included round trip transportation from Puerto Princesa, our tour of the underground river and lunch. 

Sabang X Zipline.  An overwater zip-line from a cliff to a small island 800 meters away. From the harness we overlooked the vibrant blue waters, sandy beach and forested mountains. 

Manlipien Beach.  A sandy beach with views of the zip-line and shallow aquamarine water. There are a couple fresh fruit and juice vendors nearby. 

Sarang Restaurant.  A buffet lunch spot near the Sabang Boat Terminal with Filipino dishes like fried galunggong fish, garlic rice, boiled yam, seaweed, fresh pineapple and ube bread. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Ka Inato Main Branch.  A Filipino restaurant in Puerto Princesa serving local dishes. We dined here for our first meal in the Philippines, ordering a spread of local dishes including: 

• Seafood Kare-Kare.A peanut curry mixed with veggies and seafood. 

• Binusog na Pusit. A whole squid grilled and stuffed with veggies.  

• Afritada.  Sweet tomato sauce with shrimp, vegetables and garlic rice. 

Mang Cary’s Bulalo.  A Filipino restaurant with bamboo walls, wooden tables and tropical plants decorating the dining room. We shared multiples dishes including: 

• Fish Lumpia.  Crunchy rolls stuffed with shredded fish and deep fried. 

• Talong Salad.  A salad made with steamed eggplants, cucumber, red onions and boiled eggs.

• Grilled Tuna. A tuna steak grilled, peppered abd served with sides of mango salsa and garlic rice.

• Flan.A delicate caramel custard that takes influence from the Spanish colonial period.

Where to Stay

We stayed at Casa La Aitor, a small hotel along a dirt road in Puerto Princesa with spacious apartment style rooms, an outdoor pool and an onsite cafe. Reserve on Booking.

El Nido

El Nido is a hub for marine activities, adventure parks and pure relaxation. We spent a lot of our time underwater, underground and beneath palm trees as we visited caves, coral reefs, tropical islands and white sand beaches. 

El Nido Town Center.  The town center is beachy haven with vegan cafes, local bakeries, coffee shops, boutique hostels, seafood restaurants, tour offices and beachwear shops. It’s still a small town with micro markets, barber shops, pharmacies and plenty of local residents. Colorful ribbons span across many of the streets while tricycle taxis drive below. Steep and lush cliffs flank the town while outrigger boats sit anchored in its crescent shaped bay. 

El Nido Tours 

El Nido has a well choreographed circuit of four tours making stops at beaches, caves, coral reefs, sandbars and islands around the El Nido and Bacuit Bays. We boarded outrigger boats over a course of three days for tours A, B and C. 

Good to Know. Each tour lasts about 6 hours, starting between 9-10am and retuning between 3-4pm. A lunch spread with Filipino dishes is served around noon. 

Pro Tip.  Pay for the Eco Tourism Development Fee (ETDF) in advance at the El Nido Municipal Hall. They’re needed for any tour and valid for up to 5 days. Bring extra cash on the tours for snacks, drinks and additional fees to certain sights and for kayak rentals. 

Where to Book. All tours can be booked in person at El Nido Beach in front of Mabuhay Sports Bar. Bring cash for payments and proof of your ETDF. Alternatively, tours can be booked ahead of time with Corazon Travels & Tours. 

Tour A

One of the most popular circuits around El Nido. It visits multiple beaches and lagoons over the course of the day. It’s the perfect way to enjoy beach time, kayaking, snorkeling and swimming. 

Seven Commandos Beach.  A white sand beach with a palm groves and turquoise swimmable waters set against a steep tree covered mountain. There is a beach bar with fruit shakes, cocktails and fresh coconuts. Order the coconut with rum poured inside for a tropical buzz. 

Big Lagoon.  Rented kayaks and paddled into a shallow channel lined by sharp rocky cliffs and shrubs. The channel varied in color from light blue to deep navy. We entered a lagoon and paddled left, kayaking through a very narrow cave. Once outside of it, we paddled further across the lagoon where no one else visited. In a few shallow coves were coral, jellyfish and even a small shark. 

Shimizu Island.  A rugged and lush island in the bay with several small sandy beaches. We stopped along one of the beaches to swim and for lunch. 

Secret Lagoon.  A hidden lagoon only accessible by crawling through a narrow opening in the rock cliff. Beyond is a milky blue lagoon with vertical rock cliffs opening up to the sky beyond. 

South Miniloc.  On the south side of Miniloc island between Secret Lagoon and Payong Payong Beach is a cove teeming with corals and marine life. The corals are all at a shallow depth and easy to snorkel above and between. Fish seemed to acclimate around our presence as we observed them. Electric blue clams, colorful christmas tree corals and rainbow scaled tropical fish were seen across the reef. Several anemones with clown fish swimming around swayed in the currents while spiky urchins hid in crevices below. 

Tour B

An often overlooked tour on the A to D circuit making it more peaceful than the others. It visits beaches, snorkeling spots and caves. It happened to be our favorite tour even with unfavorable weather!

Cathedral Island.  A thriving shallow water coral garden just below the surface. It makes up a sprawling landscape of colorful corals home to many variety of reef fish and marine life. We snorkeling overhead, observing the stunning structures, clusters of sea creatures and strange reef formations. The sight was easily the highlight of the day one of the best living coral reefs we have seen.

Cathedral Cave.  An ocean cave named for its tall vertical columns and rocky ribbons lining its walls. The cave is only observable from outside due to poisonous sea serpents living within.

Entalula Island.  A sandy beach with a palm lined shore and snorkeling area about 100 meters off shore. Below the water are nodules of living corals, anemone with families of clown fish, leafy sea grass and blue star fish.

Snake Island.  An island advertised for its snaking sandbar accessible during low tide. The tide was high when we arrived however we discovered rows with dozens of large starfish covering the ocean bottom. 

Cudugnon Cave & Beach.  A beautiful beach with a sandy palm lined shore, bat cave, underwater garden and small restaurant. The cave lead into a pitch black chamber with large flow stones, stalagmites and a colony of sleeping bats. Under the sea is a garden with leafy grasses, swaying anemones, tropical fish and iridescent blue clams. After cave exploring and snorkeling, we ordered mai tais from the restaurant and sipped on them at the beach. 

Tour C

A beach hopping tour making stops at a variety of beaches over the course of the day. It’s the second most popular tour on the circuit around El Nido.

Helicopter Island.  An island with a sandy tree lined beach at the base of a cliff. The water gradually gets deeper the further out and the coral becomes more lively with multiple large structures, colorful fish, sea stars and clams. It’s not as lively as points on other tours but still beautiful.

Hidden Beach.  A shallow snd sandy beach reachable after swimming up a channel with aquamarine water nestled between jagged rock walls. The channel had many small jellyfish that stung as we swam. Luckily they were relatively painless.

Matinloc Shrine.  A island shrine with several steps carved into the rock leading to a panoramic lookout over the channel. On a sunny day a gradient of turquoise, aqua and marine blue can be seen along the drop off below the water. We even spotted a sea turtle coming up for air. 

Secret Beach.  An underwater cave that leads to a “secret beach” just beyond. The high tide and strong current prevented us from reaching the beach. 

Talisay Beach.  A narrow beach with a steep drop off just meters from shore. The ledge of the drop off is covered in colonies of spiky black sea urchins and tropical fish. All of the coral was bleached or decaying. On shore is a small cave and a shack with snacks and drinks. 

El Nido Beaches

Crong Crong Beach.  A lengthy beach lined with boutique hotels, tropical styles restaurant and beach shack bars. The water is not swimmable due to jagged coral and hundreds of outrigger boats anchored off shore. It’s a pretty spot to catch the sunset, sip on a cocktail or sit down for a meal. 

El Nido Beach.  A large crescent shaped beach in the middle of town with colorful buildings home to seaside restaurants, bars and hotels. Most tours of the surrounding islands leave from here. It’s a popular spot for beach runners though not the best spot to swim or layout. 

Marimegmeg Beach.  A golden sand beach named after a 100 year old Marimegmeg tree. Its crescent cove is the perfect spot for swimming in the calm turquoise waters while its sunny shore is ideal for sunbathing and picnicking under the palm trees.

Las Cabañas Beach.  A golden sand beach that comes to a point with views of the karst islands throughout the bay. It’s lined with beachfront hotels and restaurants, popular for their sunset views. It’s most accessible during low tide though many areas are non-swimmable due to coral and rocks. The El Nido Zip Line passes overhead from the cliff behind.

Papaya Beach.  A idyllic white sand beach with turquoise waters, palm shaded shores and views of Baicut Bay. About 50ft offshore is a coral reef and field of sea grass with tropical fish, anemones, sea urchins and the occasional jellyfish. The beach is sparsely visited due to its remoteness making it a peaceful retreat to spend the day. There is a beach kiosk with coconuts, snacks and drinks for sale. It’s only reachable by boat or kayak. Unlike its neighbor, Seven Commandos Beach, it’s not offered as a stop on any of the tours. 

Things to Do

Outside of tours and beaches, there are a few nearby activities that were easy to DIY and experience on our own. 

El Nido Zipline.  A 750 meter zipline from a cliffside lookout to an island in the bay. We raced side by side, spinning back and forth as we overlooked the picturesque landscapes surrounding us and the ocean about 20 meters below. It’s possible to ride one way and walk back from the island during low tide. We rode during high tide and took the second zip line back, enjoying the thrilling views again. 

Pro Tip.  Arrive in mid morning or mid afternoon to avoid the post breakfast and post lunch rushes. Otherwise, waits can be up to 2 hours. 

El Nido Via Ferrata Canopy Walk.  An adventure park with a suspension bridge and steep walkways through the jagged and razor sharp cliffs towering above El Nido. Along the route are views of the cliffs ending at a platform with a panorama of the town and harbor. The route down has a couple spider web shaped platforms for observation and photo opps. We booked day of at the ticket office around 10am.

Jayven Kayak Rental.  A kayak rental at Corong Corong Beach with full day rentals. We paid 600 PHP for a double kayaks, returning it before sunset. From here, we kayaked around the boat dotted harbor, rugged cliffs and to Papaya Beach about 45 minutes away. 

Shop at the El Nido Public Market.  A local farmer’s market with booths of vendors selling fresh produce, vegetables, eggs, herbs and groceries. There is a central area with butchers carving meats and fish mongers preparing the day’s catch. Shop keepers are friendly and eager to help. We bought a bounty of items to cook various local dishes. It’s open daily and still bustling until 7pm. The market is cash only and prices are very fair. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Lion’s Sunset Lounge.  A beautiful beachfront restaurant decorated in bamboo, thatchery and natural materials. Their menus features Filipino and tropical dishes. We ordered the calamari rings, ground crab burger and a filet of tuna steamed in a banana leaf. 

El Nido Bakery.  A bakery in town with a display of golden baked pastries made with local flavors. We stopped in for pineapple cake, banana bread, salt bread and hopia ube, a flaky pastry filled with bright purple ube jam. 

Tales of the Islands.  A vibey restaurant and bar with a daily buy one get one happy hour from 3-7pm. We stopped in after a tour, ordering the Coco Tropical, an anise flavored piña colada and a classic sangria.

Happiness Beach Bar.  A cocktail bar along the main beachfront road in town. We stopped in for their buy one get one happy hour after a tour. Try the frozen margaritas and daiquiri! 

Orange Pearl Restaurant.  A beachfront hotel restaurant with views of the islands and bay. We stopped in for their buy one get one happy hour after zip lining and relaxing at Maremegmeg Beach. 

Jarace Grill.  A seaside restaurant at El Nido Beach with the freshest selection of seafood displayed on ice. We hand chose a red snapper and squid to have charcoal grilled with a side of Filipino garlic rice. 

Don Macchiatos.  A small coffee shop beloved for their 39 PHP lattes (less than $1 USD). Try the iced ube latte for a local flavor!

Brunch El Nido.  As its name implies, they do one thing, brunch! Their food menu offers egg dishes, overnight oats, sandwiches and fruit bowls. Bean bags sit at tables on the second floor, perfect for longing with a coffee, mimosa or sangria. 

Art Cafe.  A beachfront cafe and bar at El Nido Beach with freshly baked local pastries. We stopped in for a tuna empanada and cassava bread.

Filipino Cuisine 

Having spent three weeks island hopping across the Philippines, we got to eat and cook several traditional Filipino dishes. We tasted so many delicious local flavors at restaurants in Puerto Princesa, El Nido and on our tours.

Sotanghon Noodle Soup.  A thick and savory noodle soup often made with chicken, carrots, cabbage and sotanghon noodles. We replaced the chicken with marinated tofu giving it a chicken noodle soup flavor.  

Kinilaw.  A Filipino style ceviche made with vinegar washed seafood mixed calamansi lime juice, coconut cream, red onions, hot peppers and ginger. 

Adobo.  A national dish of the Philippines seen on menus across the country. Its base has a seared protein simmered with a sticky soy sauce glaze made with vinegar, brown sugar and pepper. 

Garlic Rice.  Rice cooked with fresh or fried pieces of garlic. It’s served with almost every meal.

Lumpia.  The beloved Filipino style spring roll stuffed with a protein. It’s typically served deep fried and crispy. We made a version using local Bangus fish.

Banana Turon.  A breakfast or dessert style lumpia made with fresh banana filling and sometimes ube jam.

Bangsilog.  A traditional Filipino breakfast pairing with grilled or fried fish, fried eggs and white rice.

Pancit.  A commonly served noodle dish stirfried with carrots and cabbage. 

Champorado.  A chocolaty rice porridge made with cocoa powder and evaporated milk.

Calamansi Juice.  A Filipino juice made with calamansi limes. It has a citrus flavor similar to a mixture of lime, lemon and orange. 

Taho.  A layered dessert made with silken tofu, tapioca pearls and brown sugar sauce. It’s a common street food dish sold by vendors carrying large steel tins.

Ube.  A starchy root vegetable famed for its deep purple color. It’s cooked down into a number of dishes, mostly desserts. We used it to make a sweet jam using a Filipino friend’s family recipe. 

Halo Halo.  The unofficial national dessert of the Philippines. It’s an icy layered treat made with sweetened jellies, root vegetables, corn and cereal drizzled with sweetened condensed and evaporated milks. 

Where to Stay

El Nido Lofts.  A small apartment complex with a handful of lofted studios. It’s a central spot located between the town center and Crong Crong Beach. From here, most places were only a 20 minute walk away. Reserve on Booking.

Getting Around 

Tuk Tuk.  The three wheeled hybrid of a car and motorcycle is the most efficient way of getting around El Nido. Tuk tugs are readily available on the street. Plan to pay in cash and negotiate price before getting in. Typical rides cost between 100 - 300 PHP depending on distance. 

Between Puerto Princesa & El Nido.  The best way to get between Puerto Princess and El Nido is by taking a shared transfer. Shuttles are available from either town’s transport terminal or by booking ahead with a scheduled pick up. After 5 hours of very winding roads, a couple pit stops and speedy driving, we made it to our destination. We booked with Corazon Travels & Tours on Get Your Guide the day before. 

Warning!  If you suffer from motion sickness, this is not the way to travel! The road is full of fast twists, turns and hills.

Location Specifics

Cash Only.  Many businesses and restaurants are cash only. There are ATMs and currency exchanges in town. Withdraw cash in the local currency (Philippine Peso) for the best exchange rate. 

Language.  Tagalong is the national language of the Philippines. It’s heavily influenced by Spanish. English is commonly spoken by most people. 

Power Outages.  There are near nightly power outages about an hour after sunset lasting from a few minutes to over an hour. This was especially true in Puerto Princesa. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe to drink, cook with or use for brushing teeth. Only used bottled water. Let tap water run clear before using it. 

Rain Storms.  There are frequent rainstorms lasting around 20 minutes, even on sunny and clear days. Always carry an umbrella!

Single Use Plastic.  While not entirely banned, it’s strongly encouraged to avoid single use plastic. Bring a re-usable straw, cloth grocery bag and insulated water bottle.

Beware of Jellyfish.  There are signs at every beach warning visitors to beware of jellyfish. We spotted several ranging from the side of a ping pong ball to the side of volleyball. 

When to Visit.  We visited in late May through early June on the curb season between spring and summer. We experienced more warm and sunny days than the couple cloudy and rainy days. 

Elsewhere in The Philippines

From Palawan's limestone cliffs and island hopping adventures to Siargao's surf culture and Cebu's wildlife encounters, discover more of the Philippines beyond El Nido with these travel guides: 

Siargao Travel Guide: Surfing, Island Adventures & Filipino Cuisine.  Ride the waves in Siargao where Cloud 9 surf breaks, turquoise lagoons, palm fringed islands and Filipino cuisine embody the island's relaxed rhythm and adventurous spirit.

Cebu Travel Guide: Whale Sharks, Canyoning & Wildlife.  Chase adventure in Cebu to swim with whale sharks and sardines, canyoneer at Kawasan Falls and island hop to Bohol's Chocolate Hills for experiences on land and water.

For Next Time…

Palawan is one of those destinations you hope will never change. We imagine coming back years from now and reliving our adventures all over again in addition to experiencing some things we missed. 

Coron.  A rugged and mountainous island with a rainforest, lagoons, coral reefs and ship wrecks. Similar to El Nido, it has its own circuit of 4 tours. The island is reachable by ferry 4 hours from El Nido. 

Nacpan Beach.  A lengthy golden sand beach about an hour north of El Nido by tricycle. Though semi-remote, it has small resorts, beach bars and lounge rentals. 

Tour D.  The only tour on the El Nido circuit that we missed due to timing. It visits island lagoons, coves, beaches and snorkeling points. 

Osaka Travel Guide: Dotonbori, Street Food & Osaka Castle

A Day Trip to Osaka

Osaka is a Japanese megacity famed for its energetic atmosphere, colorful neon lights, pop culture and street food. Osaka is both modern and historic, once serving as Japan’s imperial capital. It’s reachable on a day trip from Kyoto. 

Dotonbori

Dontonbori is the energetic downtown neighborhood of Osaka famed for its neon lit canal, extravagant signage and restaurant alleyways. It’s one of the best places to experience Japan’s food culture including conveyer belt sushi and the local dish, takoyaki. Sightseeing boats cruise the canal while j-pop performers attract large crowds on its pedestrian bridges. 

Dotonbori Don Quijote.  Japan’s largest location of the chain discount store, Don Quijote. It’s floors of aisle are stocked with an assortment of miscellaneous goods and Japanese souvenirs. Come here to ride the Ebisu Tower Ferris Wheel,  a giant vertical oval shaped ferris wheel overlooking Dotonbori. 

Kuromon Ichiba Market.  A covered street food market with restaurants and vendors specializing in Japanese seafood. Visit hungry and order fresh sushi and sashimi, snow crab and dungeness crab, tempera encrusted squid and octopus, freshly shucked oysters, buttery sea urchin roe and barbecued eel. Several stands also sell udon, soba and gyoza. 

Places to Eat & Drink in Dotombori

Daiki-suisan Kaitenzushi Dotombori.  A popular conveyer belt sushi restaurant in Dotombori. Plates of sushi and nigiri snake past diners along a series of bar counters. Grab a dish as they slowly passby and enjoy! Dishes are charged by the plate, with the design of each plate denoting the cost. It was one of the most fun dining experiences we had in Japan. 

Achichi Honpo Dotonbori.  One of the many street food restaurants along the Dotonbori Canal serving Osaka’s beloved dish, Takoyaki. The battered and griddled octopus balls are garnished with eel sauce, kewpie mayo and green onions. Look for paper lantern of a cute red octopus on Dotonbori. 

Naruto Taiyaki Hompo.  A popular pastry shop selling Taiyaki, fish shaped pastries stuffed with a sweet filling. Theirs are crispy yet cakey with a generous filling of red bean paste, matcha or ube. Expect to wait up to 30 minutes for your chance to order. 

Cocktail Machine.  A speakeasy cocktail bar hidden behind a vending machine on the fifth floor of a narrow building in Dotombori. Their menu features over 100 different well priced cocktails. 

Umineko.  A small standing bar specializing in Japanese craft beers from local breweries. Try the wasabi cider! 

Shinsekai Street

Shinsekai Street is an incredibly vibrant street with colorful neon lights, vintage signs, golden statues, painted calligraphy, paper lanterns and claw machine arcades. Restaurants specialize in Kushiyaki (Japanese skewers) while cafes serve matcha flavored ice cream. Come here at night to experience the high energy of the street. 

Tsutenkaku (Osaka Tower).  A historic tower decorated with neon lights at the heart of Shinsekai Street. Its shape is similar to that of Tokyo Tower with a tapered point and pyramidal base. There is an observation deck on top. 

Tower Knives.  A traditional knife store manufacturing and selling a large variety of Japanese style blades. There is a workshop in the back of the store where the blades are sharpened, affixed to handles and custom engraved. The shop feels like a hardware store for chefs. We bought a Santoku knife, an all purpose chefs knife originating from Osaka. They ship internationally if not checking a bag home.

Hozenji Yokocho

Hozenji Yokocho is a series of narrow alleyways lined with paper lantern adorned izakayas and neon lit standing bars. It’s less crowded than the nearby streets surrounding Dotonbori but no less exciting. Come here to eat, drink or simply walk through. 

Hozenji Temple. A small Buddhist temple in the middle of an alley in Hozenji Yokocho. It offers a little moment of calmness surrounded by the high energy of the surrounding neighborhoods and streets.

Osaka-Jo Castle

Osaka-Jo Castle isa grand multi-tiered castle surrounded by a series of colossal motes, steep stone walls and historic bastions. Scenic parklands offer views of the castle and outdoor space for leisurely activities. The castle is now a museum with different exhibits and a rooftop observatory. Exhibit floors recount the castle’s history, the summer war of Osaka and unification of Japan. They feature artifacts like samurai helmets, armor and swords, colorful folding screens and calligraphy covered scrolls. 

Pro Tip. Get here before 8am to avoid the crowds and be first to enter the castle. 

Sot Coffee.   An elevated cafe near Osaka-Jo Castle with premium coffees made using house roasted coffee. Try the coconut latte and homemade nougat.  

Getting to Osaka

There are multiple trains and train lines between Kyoto and Osaka. The quickest is the JR West Haruka Express from Kyoto Station to Osaka Station. It takes anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour. Once in Osaka, walk and take the local subway to get around the city.

Elsewhere in Japan

From Osaka's street food and neon lit neighborhoods to Tokyo's iconic districts, Kyoto's cultural heritage and Okinawa's coastal landscapes, continue your journey through Japan with these these travel guides: 

Tokyo Travel Guide: Districts, Japanese Culture & Mt. Fuji.  Explore Japan's dynamic capital through vibrant neighborhoods, historic temples, world class cuisine and iconic views of Mount Fuji.

Kyoto Travel Guide: Temples, Historic Districts & Japanese Culture.  Wander through Kyoto's historic districts, where ancient temples, traditional gardens and centuries of Japanese culture continue to thrive.

Okinawa Travel Guide: Ryukyu Culture, Island Landscapes & Okinawan Cuisine.  Discover Japan's subtropical islands through Ryukyu heritage, coastal landscapes, turquoise waters and a unique regional food culture.

Tokyo Travel Guide: Districts, Japanese Culture & Mt. Fuji

Tokyo, A City of Cities

Tokyo, Japan’s vibrant capital, is a city of cities famed for its urban landscape and constant energy. Crowded intersections and bustling streets are flanked by colorful signs, towering skyscrapers and glowing neon lights. Japanese cuisine is served at lively izakayas, narrow yokochos and seafood markets. Ancient traditions live on at historic temples and cultural sites. A complex transport system links the city’s districts, shaping the dynamic metropolis. We spent a week exploring this energetic capital, including a day trip to the iconic volcano of Mt. Fuji.

Shinjuku City

Shinjuku is one of Tokyo’s most vibrant neighborhoods with neon lit walking streets, nightlife alleys, second hand clothing stores and cutesy cafes. 

Godzilla Road.  Tokyo’s most famed walking street, named after an iconic statue of Godzilla perched on top of a theater at its end. The street is illuminated by a canyon of buildings adorned with colorful vertical signs and vibrant neon lights. Thousands of people meander between shops, restaurants, karaoke bars and clubs.  

Omoide Yokocho.  A narrow alleyway with tiny multi floor bars and authentic street food kitchens serving Yakitori, skewers of grilled meat. Smoke from the grills wafts through the alley covering it in a thin veil of haze. We wandered through until ducking into a bar with open seating. 

Bar Albatross.  An eclectic three floor bar in Omoide Yokocho decorated in salvaged artifacts. Welcoming bartenders invited us in and began recommending Japanese inspired signature cocktails from the menu. Try the Spicy Gin or Ume-Ra. 

Golden Gai.  A nightlife area of Shinjuku with of alleyways of hundreds of tiny bars. Each offers a unique experience with seats for less than a dozen customers. We walked past cocktail bars, dive bars, whisky bars, themed bars, sports bars and beer pubs. After strolling the alleys, we settled on Halo, a warmly lit cocktail bar specializing in Japanese gins from across the country. 

Good to Know.  Most bars have a ¥500-1000 cover. Some bars are unwelcoming and forbid foreigners. Avoid places that say “Members Only” and “No English.”

Shinjuku Ni-Chome.  An LGBTQ+ nightlife area with several queer friendly bars and clubs. We ordered latenight cocktails at King Tokyo, one of the most popular gay bars in the area with cheap and strong drinks! 

Musashino Street.  A walking street with hundreds of colorful vertical signs competing for people’s attention. The street has a Don Quixote, arcades with claw machines and Japanese Izakayas serving ramen and sushi. 

Shinjuku Makoto.  A small sushi restaurant specializing in Omakase, a multi-course sushi tasting experience curated individually by the sushi chef. It included 11 pieces of nigiri, a hand roll and multiple small sides. We paired it with a carafe of house sake. They offer multiple levels of omakase as well as vegetarian options. Reservations are needed ahead of time and can be booked with Table Check. 

Shinjuku Station.  The busiest train station in the world! It’s Tokyo’s transportation hub with over 2 million daily visitors. During rush hour, it’s the common sight of “professional pushers,” attendants that push people inside train cars to keep trains operating on time.  

Harajuku

Harajuku is a trendy sub neighborhood within Shinjuku renowned for its aesthetic, fashionable vintage shops, Japanese denim stores, luxury boutiques, themed cafes and all things cute.

Takeshita Street.  An eccentric and touristy street famed for Japan’s Kawaii Culture, the celebration of all things cute. The street is lined with toy stores, sweet shops and animal cafes. Toy stores sell big eyed stuffed animals, tiny key chains and small figurines. Sweets shops sell candies, fruit stuffed handled crepes and colorfully spun cotton candy. Animal cafes let guest cuddle with puppies, cats, potbelly pigs, hedgehogs and rabbits. 

Cat Street.  The main street in Harajuku for vintage finds, secondhand luxury goods and Japanese denim. Visit Harajuku Chicago Jingumae, Flamingo and 2nd Street Harajuku for vintage. Shop at Japan Blue Jeans Shibuya, Studio D'artisan Tokyo and Levi's Harajuku for denim. 

Micasadeco & Cafe.  A trendy brunch spot offering Japanese Pancakes, a tall stack of fluffy and jiggly soufflé/esque pancakes. Be prepared to wait 45 minutes inline and 45 minutes more to receive an order. 

Latte Pocket.  A cafe offering sculpted foam art lattes shaped into animals or cartoon characters. We ordered hedgehog and puppy designed lattes from their list of suggestions. Show them a toy or photo to reference for something extra custom!

Shibuya City

Shibuya is a densely developed and commercialized ward in central Tokyo with shopping streets, izakayas, neon lit signs and a vast city park with historic sights. 

Shibuya Center-Gai.  A neon lit street with colorful vertical signs covering buildings, restaurants and bars. Walk through at night to take in Tokyo’s famed street scene.

Udagawacho District.  A bustling sub neighborhood of Shibuya with shopping streets, winding alleyways and colorful neon lights.

The Shibuya Scramble.  A four way intersection with a diagonal crosswalk celebrated as the “World’s Busiest Intersection.” Thousands of people weave past each other in a moment of chaotic harmony as soon as the walk sign flashes. 

Pro Tip.  Order a drink at Starbucks for view from above. 

Nonbei Yokocho.  An indoor alley and food hall alongside Shibuya Station with many traditional restaurant stands, izakayas and tiny bars. It’s a vibrant and lively place to eat and drink while experiencing Japanese food culture. 

Tokyo Night Market.  An evening night market with dozens of food trucks, beer tents and stages with live musical performances. Come here for Japanese cuisine, international street food and locally brewed beers. The market is held along a treelined road and under a canopy of string lights in Yoyogi Park. It’s relatively new and only held on certain weekends of the year.

Yoyogi Park.  A sprawling city park with walking paths, forested areas, historic temples and imperial sights. 

• Consecrated Sake Barrels.  A Shinto shrine made from a wall of colorfully labeled sake barrels.

• Meiji Shrine.  An imperial shinto shine in the middle of Yoyogi Park. Large torii gates lead to its main temple, celebrated for its symmetrical design and wooden construction. 

• Big Torii.  The largest torii gate in Yoyogi Park and one of the largest in Japan. It was built using a 1,500 year old cypress tree. 

• Kakuuntei.  A preserved royal tea house overlooking the park’s south pond, Otsuri Dai. 

• Kiyomasa's Well.  A 400 year old spring visited by people seeking positive energy. People wince their hands in it for its healing powers. 

• Pine Tree of Imperial Troop Review.  A stately pine tree stood under by past emperors when reviewing the imperial troops. 

• Ginkgo Trees Forest.  A forested section of the park with towering ginkgo trees, a Japanese symbol of reliance and longevity. 

Fudo Dori Street.  An “off the beaten path” street with local dining options including ramen shops, sushi bars, sake rooms and izakayas. Visit Daidai Izakaya, for flavorful meal surrounded by neighborhood locals and after hours businessmen. Their handwritten menu features Japanese dishes and several types of Shochu. 

Afuri Shibuya Dogenzak.  A Tokyo style ramen shop and one of the few in the city offering vegan ramen! The large bowls of noodles are overflowing with savory broth and seasonal vegetables. 

Uba Coffee.  A coffee shop and bakery with a large spread of freshly made pastries, breads and sandwiches. Try the honey fried bread, egg sandwich and cranberry roll.

Ginza District 

Ginza is an upscale district of Tokyo with some of the city’s most visited sights. Come here to view the Imperial Palace, eat at the historic fish market and see the city from Tokyo Tower. 

Tokyo Tower.  A red and white striped broadcasting tower reminiscent of Paris’ Eiffel Tower. It has two observation decks with panoramic views of Tokyo’s sprawling metropolis. There is a “Main Deck” at the middle of the tower and “Top Deck” at the top of the tower. Both are worth visiting to experience a different view of the city. 

Tsukiji Nippon Port Fish Market.  Tokyo’s famed fish market, known for million dollar tunas and some of the country’s freshest seafood. Skip the morning auction and come during the early afternoon for lunch! Restaurants surrounding the market prepare seafood bid on and purchased that morning. Icy tables display shellfish, slices of raw fish (nigiri), crab arms and skewered seafood. They’re prepared raw, grilled or to your liking. We ordered a spread of nigiri including Hokkaido Uni.

Imperial Palace & Edo Castle.  A vast imperial palace and castle still lived in by the Japanese emperor, the world’s last ruling emperor. A majority of its grounds are off limits and blocked from view. Its outer stone wall and flooded mote are the most visible. A large lawn, once home to the last shogunate’s palace has some closely viewable buildings including a former defensive tower, guardhouse and imperial gate. 

Café de l’Ambre.  A historic cafe brewing pour over coffees served in cocktail glasses and simple mugs. When entering, you’re greeted by “we only serve coffee” then seated once confirming you understand. Behind the bar, baristas boil kettles of water, precisely weigh beans and handmade each coffee. The shop specializes in non-alcoholic coffee cocktails and 10 year aged beans. Try a “straight coffee” or the Mazagran, a creamy iced coffee served in a coupe glass. 

Asakusa District  

Asakusa is a historic and cultural district of Tokyo visited for its temples and food scene. 

Senso-ji Temple.  Tokyo’s oldest and most significant Shinto temple. Its grounds date back nearly 1,400 years and are home to several red lacquered wooden structures including temple gates, prayer halls and a 5 tiered pagoda. Scents and smoke from burning incense fill the air as people visit and make prayers and offerings. Its one of the most visited temple in Japan, get here early to avoid massive crowds. 

Nakamise Street.  A shopping street leading up to Senso-ji Temple. Kiosks with vendors sell a variety of traditional and local snacks as well as souvenirs. The street is often packed with thousands of school children on field trips to the temple. 

Hoppy Dori Street.  A food street with many izakayas nearby Senso-ji Temple. It’s a popular spot to enjoy a cold Japanese beer like Asahi, Kirin, Sapporo or Suntory. 

Chacha Futatsume.  An ice cream shop with instagramable waffle cones topped with spaghetti style matcha and a matcha cookie. If you love matcha, it’s well worth the cost! 

Kappabashi (Kitchen Town).  A renowned street lined with hundreds of kitchenware shops and restaurant supply stores. Chefs and home cooks alike flock here to buy Japanese knives, chop sticks, matcha tea whisks, tamagoyaki pans, ramen bowls and wooden bento boxes. Bring home Shokuhin Sampuru, a plastic food replica used to replace real food samples, as a souvenir. 

Tokyo Sky Tree.  A 2,080 ft tall broadcasting tower and the it’s the tallest building in Tokyo’s skyline. It has two observation decks with panoramic views of the city. We opted out of visiting but viewed it from around Asakusa.

Mt. Fuji 

Mt. Fuji is Japan’s most iconic landmark and natural wonder. The volcano is revered for its conical shape, snow covered peak and near perfect symmetry. We viewed Mt. Fuji from different locations around the town of Fujiyoshida and Lake Kawaguchi. Its panoramic views and peaceful scenery made for a memorable day trip from Tokyo. 

Lake Kawaguchi.  A lake at the base of Mt. Fuji with a walking path around its perimeter, small beaches, public campgrounds and paddle boat rentals. 

• Ubuyagasaki Shrine.  A small Shinto shrine and with views of Mt. Fuji from across the lake. The best views are at the beach below the shrine.

• Nagasaki Park.  A lakefront park with tall grasses, a stone beach and picturesque views of Mt. Fuji. Many couples come here for wedding photos. 

• Oishi Park.  A lakeside park famed for its seasonal flower blooms and views of Mt. Fuji. The Nemophila flowers were in full bloom during mid May. Their indigo color and fragrant scent added to the beauty of the landscape. 

• Cafe Green House.  An ice cream stand with local and herbal flavors like lavender, vanilla, matcha and Azuki bean. 

Fujiyoshida.  A town at the foot hills of Mt. Fuji nearby Lake Kawaguchi. It’s one of the most popular places to visit for views of the volcano. 

• Chureito Pagoda. A 5 storied pagoda on a tree covered mountainside with picturesque views of Mt. Fuji. The walkway to the pagoda is marked by a red torii gate and lined with Japanese maples. It’s one of the most photogenic locations in Japan and attracts a crowd. 

• Honcho Street. A hilly street in Fujiyoshida lined with retro Japanese architecture, framing views of Mt. Fuji at its end. Be extremely cautious when taking photos from the street. 

• Shimoyoshida Station.  The main train station in Fujiyoshida. Vintage train cars are displayed on old tracks with views of Mt. Fuji in the background. Chureito Pagoda is only a brief walk away. Taxis are available from here to get around the city and lake. 

• Fuji Apples.  There are vendors selling crispy Fuji Apples between Shimoyoshida Station and Chureito Pagoda. Snack on one while enjoying the views of Mt. Fuji. 

Pro Tip.  Plan ahead and go on sunny day.

Getting Here.  Buy roundtrip train or bus tickets 1-2 days in advance. Take a train from Shinjuku Station to Otsuki Station. Transfer to the Fujikyuko Line to Shimoyoshida Station. The last trains leave for Tokyo by 6pm. If planning to stay for the sunset, it’s best to stay overnight.

Japanese Cuisine 

Japan is world renowned for its cuisine, flavors and culinary presentation. Kyoto shares many of the same dishes as the rest of the Japan but it also has its own specialities and vegetarian forward meals. 

Sushi vs Sashimi vs Nigiri

Sushi.  Raw seafood wrapped elegantly in seaweed and sticky rice, often with vegetables. It’s typically rolled up, sliced and garnished with sauces. 

Sashimi.  Bite-sized pieces of sliced raw seafood. This is the most common. 

Nigiri.  Bite-sized pieces of raw seafood covering a nugget of sticky rice. 

Street Food & Small Plates 

Tako Tomago.  A baby octopus stuffed with a boiled quail egg and dipped in a sweet soy sauce. It’s served on a stick and a common snack at street food markets. 

Dashi Makitamago.  Japanese rolled omelette made with dashi and scallions. 

Kansai Unagi.  A filet of grilled eel layered over rice and wrapped in seaweed. 

Katsu.  Breaded and fried pieces of vegetables, seafood or meat. It’s a popular snack at restaurants and bars across Kyoto.

Tempura.  Battered and deep fried vegetables like  green beans, taro root, sweet potato and daikon radish.

Kushikatsu.  Deep-fried skewers of meat or vegetables. 

Fish Cakes.  Patties of ground fish often served fried until golden. Some places will mix them with vegetables, meats or other types of fish. 

Okonomiyaki.  Japanese “pancakes” filled with shredded cabbage, green onions and vegetables. 

Rice Dishes 

Onigiri.  A triangular packet of rice wrapped in seaweed and stuffed with various types to vegetables or proteins. 

Tomago Rice.  Sticky rice seasoned with tomago, a mixture of seaweed, dried fish, sesame, sugar and salt. 

Shime Saba.  Cured mackerel over sticky rice.  

Tofu Dishes

Kyoto Tofu.  Tofu from Kyoto famed for being smoother and richer due to being made with local spring water. It’s often served cool and “raw” with bonito flakes and scallion. 

Agedashi Tofu.  Crispy fried tofu served in a pool of dashi broth and topped with scallions. 

Yudofu Tofu.  Silken tofu simmered in a dashi broth. 

Soups 

Nishin Soba.  Kyoto soba noodle soup with marinated herring. 

Miso Soup.  A Japanese soup made with dashi broth, seaweed and tofu. It’s a common breakfast dish. 

Japanese Meals & Spreads 

Shojin Ryori.  A spread of seasonal vegetables and vegetarian dishes commonly eaten by Buddhist monks. A staple of the meal is Goma Dofu, a sesame custard served in a bath of soy sauce and topped with wasabi.

Obanzai.  A Kyoto style meal comprised of a spread of seasonal dishes like pickled vegetables, tomago rice and yudofu tofu. 

Bento Box.  A packaged meal consisting of compartmentalized side dishes like sticky rice, pickled vegetables, rolled eggs, cured fish and seaweed salad. It’s a popular way to eat lunch. 

Japanese Breakfast.  A bowl of miso soup, grilled fish, white rice and a raw egg. 

Alcoholic Drinks

Sake.  A popular Japanese wine made from fermented rice. It often has a light and floral flavor, pairing well with sushi, sushimi and nigiri.  

Suntory Draft.  An inexpensive brand of Japanese beer served across the country. 

Getting Around

Tokyo’s transit system is the most complex in the world. Getting around can be challenging at times, especially for first timers. The city is covered in many different train lines ran by different transit companies.

Tokyo Transit Tips: 

• Know your train line, the direction you’re traveling, the line symbol and station number to get off at.

• Buy single use tickets instead of transit cards. It takes longer but helps when taking different lines. 

• Fares are based on distance for most train lines 180 to 430 yen 

• Avoid rush hours from 7:30-9:30am and 5-8pm

Convenient Lines:

• JR Yamanote Line.  A train line that connecting the city’s main neighborhoods along a loop. It’s the most used when sightseeing. 

• JR Narita Express (NEX).  A direct train line from between Tokyo’s main train stations and Narita airport. Takes 1 hour and costs ¥5,000 ($34 USD). Avoid airport taxis, they take equally as long and cost around $200 USD. 

Location Specifics 

Credit vs Cash.  Japan is generally a cash leaning country. Credit cards are accepted at some businesses but it’s safe to expect needing to pay in cash. 

Otoshi (Covers).  Many restaurants, izakayas and bars will charge a cover when dining in. They often include a small snack or house appetizer. 

Tipping.  It is not necessary to tip at most businesses. Bill with often include a 10% service charge. 

No Shoes Indoors.  Japan is the strictest country we’ve visited when it comes to wearing shoes indoors. At most restaurants and accommodations, shoes must be left at the door before entering. 

Practice Silence.  Silence is highly valued in Japanese culture, especially when walking on the streets or riding public transportation.

Body Language.  Pointing with fingers and crossing arms is considered rude. Use both hands when giving or receiving anything like cash, credit cards, receipts or tickets. A slight head bow is considered respectful when greeting someone or saying goodbye. 

Avoid Anti Foreigner Izakays.  Some izakayas refuse to serve foreign customers. Hosts or owners will say they’re closed, sold out or not open then proceed to seat Japanese speaking customers. When this happens, it’s best to brush it off and find somewhere else to dine.

Follow Street Etiquette.  Don’t eat or drink while walking. It’s considered bad manners. Walk on the left side of the side walk. Follow the direction of Japanese people, not other tourists. Don’t walk on the escalators.

Make Reservations.  Most restaurants and bars only have about ten seats. It’s near impossible to dine or drink anywhere without a reservation. 

Language 

Knowing a few words and phrases in Japanese goes a long way when interacting with locals.

• Hello.  Kon'nichiwa (Kon-Knee-Che-Wa)

• Good Morning.  Ohayōgozaimas (Oh-Hi-O-Go-Sigh-Mas)

• Thank You.  Arigatōgozaimas (Are-E-Got-Toe-Go-Sigh-Mas) 

• You’re Welcome.  Dōitashimashite (Doe-Tie-She-Mash-Two)

• I Would Like.  O onegaishimasu (O-Own-E-Guy-She-Mas-Sue)

• Yes.  Hai (Hi)

• No.  Īe (E-Yea)

Elsewhere in Japan

From Tokyo's vibrant districts and modern cityscapes to Kyoto's historic temples, Osaka's food culture and Okinawa's island heritage, continue exploring Japan through these travel guides:

Kyoto Travel Guide: Temples, Historic Districts & Japanese Culture.  Wander through Kyoto's historic districts, where ancient temples, traditional gardens and centuries of Japanese culture continue to thrive.

Osaka Travel Guide: Dotonbori, Street Food & Osaka Castle.  Experience Osaka through neon lit streets, legendary street food, bustling markets and the city's unmistakable urban energy.

Okinawa Travel Guide: Ryukyu Culture, Island Landscapes & Okinawan Cuisine.  Discover Japan's subtropical islands through Ryukyu heritage, coastal landscapes, turquoise waters and a unique regional food culture.

For Next Time…

Revisit Tokyo.  There is never enough time to explore the largest city in the world! We can’t wait to revisit Tokyo and continue discovering its chaotic, cultural and beautiful streets.

Hike Mt Fuji.  Getting to see Mt. Fuji from all angles made us want to experience the hike to its summit. The volcano can be summited during July and August, typically taking two days there and back. 

The Onsens of Hakone.  Hakone is a town near Mt. Fuji with natural hot springs and onsens, traditional Japanese spas. After hiking, it would be the perfect way to relax. 

Hokkaido.  Tokyo is a hub to reach Hokkaido, Japan’s most northern prefecture. It’s a winter paradise and internationally famed for its uni. 

Kyoto Travel Guide: Temples, Historic Districts & Japanese Culture

Kyoto, Japan’s Ancient Capital

Kyoto is Japan’s ancient capital city and modern day cultural hub. Its historic neighborhoods and streets are home to millennia old temples, towering pagodas, classic wooden homes, tranquil canals, bamboo forests and zen rock gardens. Japanese goods and street food are sold at local markets. Cuisine is sought after at tiny izakayas. Matcha is prepared in many forms but is purest at traditional tea houses. We spent over a week exploring Kyoto, branching out to the nearby cities of Osaka and Nara. 

Streets & Districts

Higashiyama District.  One of Kyoto’s most historic districts. It’s known for old Japanese architecture including wooden homes, matcha tea houses, ancient temples and towering pagodas. Walk around in the early morning without crowds or in the early evening as the sun sets. 

Ninen-Zaka & Sannen-Zara.  Two hilly and winding stone streets in the heart of the Higashiyama District. Both streets are lined with traditional Japanese homes, old wooden buildings, artisan shops and matcha tea houses. 

Gion District.  One of the most historic districts in Kyoto with narrow streets, old wooden houses, traditional izakayas and genuine geishas. The best time to walk around is before 8am and between 3-5pm. 

• Shinbashi Dori.  An architecturally interesting street in the Gion District with a series of traditional Japanese style houses. Each is one of a kind built over the centuries from varying tones of wood. 

• Shirakawa Canal.  A tree lined canal passing through the center of the Gion District. The calming stream flows over cobblestones, past beautiful wooden houses and beneath pedestrian bridges with people overlooking it. It’s a romantic location and popular spot for photoshoots. 

• Hanamikoji-dori.  The main street in the Gion District and most likely place to spot geishas in full make up and traditional attire. We walked the street around 5pm and spotted several geisha walking to appointments and being picked up by drivers.

• Good to Know.  Be respectful. Don’t directly photograph, walk in front of or speak to the geishas. It’s considered rude and can even lead to a fine. 

Ponto-Chō.  A nightlife neighborhood with narrow alleyways illuminated by red paper lanterns. It’s a popular area with dozens of late night izakayas, small standing bars, sushi restaurants, hidden pubs and matcha tea houses. Many places overlook the Kamo River, where locals spend their late afternoon with friends and family as the sun sets.

Good to Know.  Make reservations ahead of time to secure a seat at restaurants and bars. 

Sanjo-Dori Street.  A covered shopping street with all types of Japanese businesses. We window shopped and admired all of the beautifully designed things at stationary and stamp stores, streetwear and thrift shops, Japanese knife boutiques, bookshops and souvenir stands. In between the shops are izakays, bakeries, matcha cafes, Shinto and Buddhist temples.

Pagodas, Temples & Castles 

Yasaka Pagoda.  A five tiered wooden pagoda in the center of the Higashiyama District. It’s one of Kyoto’s most picturesque sights. The pagoda is framed by a winding cobblestone street and historic Japanese homes. It houses relics of the Buddha but is closed to tourists. 

Pro Tip.  Arrive before 6am to enjoy uninterrupted views and the historic streets surrounding it. 

Kiyomizu-dera.  A sprawling hilltop temple complex in the Higashiyama District with a grand stilted wooden temple. It overlooks the forested hillside and cityscape of Kyoto. Its entrance passes through a red lacquered temple gate, past a three tiered pagoda, mediation halls and Japanese garden. Walkways lead further through the complex to a series of smaller temples and shrines. 

Pro Tip.  Arrive by 7am before the temple officially opens to beat the crowds. 

Kodai-ji Temple.  A tranquil Zen Buddhist temple in the Higashiyama District. Walking paths meander past a simplistic rock garden, manicured Japanese gardens, past small meditation halls and through a bamboo grove. Its historic meditation halls have bamboo thatched roofs, wooden columns, ornately carved details, paper paneled windows and tatami mat floors. It’s lesser visited than the nearby temples allowing it to maintain a peaceful atmosphere at all times of the day. 

Ryoan-ji Temple.  Japan’s most famous Zen Rock Garden. It’s comprised of 15 stone “islands” purposefully placed in a rectangular sea of raked gravel. Come here to sit and meditate in thought while viewing the garden’s soothing patterns. Elsewhere on the grounds are Buddhist temples and nature trails leading past moss gardens, a bamboo grove and lily pond. 

Kinkakuji Temple (The Golden Pavilion).  A historic three tiered pavilion gilded in gold leaf. It’s perfectly intertwined with nature. The pavilion sits between a large pond on the edge of a pine forest. From afar, its shining facade reflects across the pond’s surface while its simple but elegant details are viewable from up close. The pavilion was built as a residence for a Shogun over 600 years ago and later converted into a Buddhist temple. 

Pro Tip.  Visit during the mid-afternoon when sunlight shines directly on the pavilion. It’s worth the busy crowds. 

To-ji Temple (5 Storied Pagoda).  The tallest wooden pagoda in Japan, measuring 55 meters tall. The current construction dates back nearly 400 years ago while the temple itself dates back over 1,200 years. It’s a national treasure and world heritage sight. The base of the pagoda was open the day we visited, a rare occasion. Large wooden columns support the structure and faded murals decorate its dark wooden surfaces. In addition to the pagoda, there is a Japanese garden, large lecture hall and meditation temple containing statues of the Buddha, monks and warriors. 

Fushimi Inari-taisha Shrine.  A shinto shrine comprised of over 12 thousand vermilion lacquered torii gates. The network of gates span the length of a tree covered trail leading to the top of Mount Inari. Each gate is engraved with Japanese characters, offering prayers by those who donated it. The tunnel of gates leads to the top of the mountain with panoramic views of Kyoto. 

Good to Know.  It’s one of the few free sights in Kyoto and undoubtedly the busiest. Get here before 7am to avoid the massive crowds experienced by mid morning. 

Nijo Castle.  A wooden palace built by one of Japan’s most powerful shoguns. It’s surrounded by Japanese gardens, a flooded mote and a stone wall. A Japanese emperor later added a castle onto its imperial grounds. Corridors lead between a series of connected rooms within the shogun’s palace. Each room is designed with tatami mat floors, gridded paper windows and gold leaf walls. Murals depicting the seasons, landscapes and animals decorate the interiors. No photos are permitted inside the castle. 

Kyoto Gyoen National Garden.  A vast park in the middle of Kyoto home to an Imperial Palace, ancient pine trees and shaded walking paths. Its the sight of the annual Kyoto Aoi Matsuri Festival. The festival is one of Kyoto’s most prominent cultural events, with origins dating back to the 7th century. It’s sponsored by the Japanese royal family, leaving from the front gates of the imperial palace and continuing to multiple shrines across the city. The procession involves dozens of animals and hundreds of people dressed in traditional attire. Each person wears hollyhock twigs on their heads, a symbol of the procession. Some of the best sights are Geishas wearing colorful kimonos, cows pulling large covered wagons, people carrying umbrellas decorated in bouquets of flowers and a “throned” representative of the royal family. 

Good to Know.  The festival occurs annually on May 15th at 10:30am. Seats can be reserved however there are plenty of free viewing locations along the parade route. 

Higashiyama Jisho-ji.  A shogun’s former vacation residence and current day Buddhist temple. It features two historic buildings dating back 450 years. One is the earliest example of traditional Japanese style architecture. Trails lead through the grounds past sculpted sand gardens, koi ponds and verdant moss patches covering the forest floor like a plush green carpet. Cafes, shops and restaurants line the street leading up to the temple. Try the sugar coated skewers of Japanese strawberries. 

Shop the Markets 

Nishiki Market.  A market under a covered alleyway with restaurants, food stands and merchants selling all types of Japanese goods. Shops decorated in paper lanterns sell items like sake, chop sticks, kimonos, knives, paper fans, rubber stamps, dried seaweed, umbrellas and hairpins. Matcha shops and cafes sell the tea in various forms including prepared lattes, tea powder, mochi, ice-cream and baked goods. Japanese restaurants and food stands display realistic plastic replicas of their dishes. We tasted several dishes including Dashi Makitamago, Tako Tomago, Kansai Unagi, Fish Cakes and Matcha Mochi. 

Good to Know. Don’t walk and eat. It’s seen as rude and unclean in Japanese culture. Only eat in front of the business selling it. 

Things to Do

Matcha Tea Ceremony.   Matcha is one of the most culturally significant teas from Japan. Tea ceremonies provide an opportunity to try it in its truest form while learning about its history. We joined a tea ceremony in a historic tea house along Ninen-Zaka in the Higashiyama District. The tatami mat room overlooked a koi pond and Japanese garden. We sat on cushions as the tea master silently prepared and served bowls of matcha. We had the chance to prepare our own matcha using  bamboo whisks while an apprentice explained about the traditions and etiquette. 

Good to Know.  Tea ceremonies are small and last an hour. Book well in advance to secure a spot. We booked with Tea Ceremony Sakaguchian on Get Your Guide.

Sake Tasting Course.  One of Japan’s most beloved beverages is Sake, a fermented rice wine. Sake tasting courses offer an experience to taste several varieties. We tired 7 different sakes, first by themselves then paired with food to balance the flavor profiles. The sommelier lectured about the categories of sake, the different rices used, how they’re “polished”, and the traditional brewing processes. It felt like a high school lecture or business presentation but with copious amounts of sake. It’s well worth it to learn more about sake, its history and determine what variety you like best. We booked the Kyoto Insider Sake Experience at Amazake House through Airbnb. 

Order from Vending Machines.  Japan’s vending machines are an integral part of the street culture. Rows of them line sidewalks, are seen sandwiched between historic homes and standing alone in the middle of the countryside. Most dispense beverages like coffee, water and soda. Occasionally one will offer m noodles in a cup, sushi, onigiri, ice cream and cigarettes.

Places to Eat & Drink

Rokkakuya.  An izakaya specializing in katzu, breaded and fried pieces of vegetables, seafood or meat. We ordered a spread of lotus flower, onion, sweet potato, asparagus, crab stick, mackerel and eggplant. We dipped them in Kyoto’s famed Katsu Sauce and paired them with a local Suntory Draft Beer.  

Uno Ramen -Sanjo- Vegan & Gluten-Free Sushi.  An izakaya in a traditional Japanese style space specializing in vegan versions of Japanese cuisine. Come here for the convincing tasty vegan sushi, meat free gyoza and tofu small plates. 

Pontocho Kappa Sushi.  A sushi restaurant in Ponto-chō with high quality sushi, sashimi and nigiri. Order a hand roll, a bottle of sake and a nigiri platter for a flavorful range of Japanese seafood. 

Petit Brun.  A small bakery and cafe offering a range of pastries baked daily by an elderly man. We selected a spread including a persimmon danish, chestnut pie, sweet red bean rice cakes and milk tea chocolate danish. 

Bee’s Knees.  A speakeasy style cocktail bar in Ponto-chō specializing in prohibition era cocktails and Japanese spirits like whiskey and gin. Try the corpse reviver, last word, bee’s knees or their signature cocktails like florist sour and bamboo forest. 

Beer Bar Miyama.  A Japanese style dive bar on the second floor of a narrow building in Ponto-chō. Bartenders serve local beers and mixed cocktails to a regularly full bar of about a dozen people. The walls are covered in foreign currency and handwritten notes from past customers. 

Kraft Tiki.  A cocktail bar with traditional tiki drinks and Japanese tiki fusions. Come here for their version with of the zombie or the kino tiki made with Japanese gin, green tea, yuzo and peach. 

Day Trip to Osaka 

Osaka is a Japanese megacity famed for its energetic atmosphere, colorful neon lights, pop culture and street food. It is both modern and historic, once serving as Japan’s imperial capital. The city is easily reachable on a day trip from Kyoto. Read our full guide on Osaka.

Day Trip to Nara

Nara is a historic Japanese city famed for its cultural heritage, ancient history, wooden temples and sacred deer park. It’s a short distance from Kyoto making for an easy day trip. 

Nara Deer Park.  Nara’s famed deer park has been a sanctuary for the sacred deer for hundreds of years. The deer roam freely, sleep underneath trees and often approach people for food. They’re allowed to be fed special wafers available from stationed vendors. To feed the deer, approach one and bow, if it bows back, feed it a wafer. Some deer may be less curious and bump into you demanding a wafer. 

Horyuji Temple.  The world’s oldest surviving wooden structures reside at the Horyuji Temple complex in its The Western Precinct. A gate leads into a courtyard surrounded by a covered corridor with a lecture hall at its opposite end. Within the courtyard is the main temple and a five storied pagoda. Both house statues and murals of the Buddha, depicting his life, teachings and death. The buildings date back over 1,400 years to the ancient days of Japan. The complex expands further into the Eastern Precinct several temples and a Treasures Museum displaying Buddhist artifacts as old as the temple. 

Getting Here.  Take the Japanese Rail from Kyoto Station to Nara Station. Trains operate every 30 minutes and take about 45 minutes. 

Japanese Cuisine 

Japan is world renowned for its cuisine, flavors and culinary presentation. Kyoto shares many of the same dishes as the rest of the Japan but it also has its own specialities and vegetarian forward meals. 

Sushi vs Sashimi vs Nigiri

Sushi.  Raw seafood wrapped elegantly in seaweed and sticky rice, often with vegetables. It’s typically rolled up, sliced and garnished with sauces. 

Sashimi.  Bite-sized pieces of sliced raw seafood. This is the most common. 

Nigiri.  Bite-sized pieces of raw seafood covering a nugget of sticky rice. 

Street Food & Small Plates 

Tako Tomago.  A baby octopus stuffed with a boiled quail egg and dipped in a sweet soy sauce. It’s served on a stick and a common snack at street food markets. 

Dashi Makitamago.  Japanese rolled omelette made with dashi and scallions. 

Kansai Unagi.  A filet of grilled eel layered over rice and wrapped in seaweed. 

Katsu.  Breaded and fried pieces of vegetables, seafood or meat. It’s a popular snack at restaurants and bars across Kyoto.

Tempura.  Battered and deep fried vegetables like  green beans, taro root, sweet potato and daikon radish.

Kushikatsu.  Deep-fried skewers of meat or vegetables. 

Fish Cakes.  Patties of ground fish often served fried until golden. Some places will mix them with vegetables, meats or other types of fish. 

Okonomiyaki.  Japanese “pancakes” filled with shredded cabbage, green onions and vegetables. 

Rice Dishes 

Onigiri.  A triangular packet of rice wrapped in seaweed and stuffed with various types to vegetables or proteins. 

Tomago Rice.  Sticky rice seasoned with tomago, a mixture of seaweed, dried fish, sesame, sugar and salt. 

Shime Saba.  Cured mackerel over sticky rice.  

Tofu Dishes

Kyoto Tofu.  Tofu from Kyoto famed for being smoother and richer due to being made with local spring water. It’s often served cool and “raw” with bonito flakes and scallion. 

Agedashi Tofu.  Crispy fried tofu served in a pool of dashi broth and topped with scallions. 

Yudofu Tofu.  Silken tofu simmered in a dashi broth. 

Soups 

Nishin Soba.  Kyoto soba noodle soup with marinated herring. 

Miso Soup.  A Japanese soup made with dashi broth, seaweed and tofu. It’s a common breakfast dish. 

Japanese Meals & Spreads 

Shojin Ryori.  A spread of seasonal vegetables and vegetarian dishes commonly eaten by Buddhist monks. A staple of the meal is Goma Dofu, a sesame custard served in a bath of soy sauce and topped with wasabi.

Obanzai.  A Kyoto style meal comprised of a spread of seasonal dishes like pickled vegetables, tomago rice and yudofu tofu. 

Bento Box.  A packaged meal consisting of compartmentalized side dishes like sticky rice, pickled vegetables, rolled eggs, cured fish and seaweed salad. It’s a popular way to eat lunch. 

Japanese Breakfast.  A bowl of miso soup, grilled fish, white rice and a raw egg. 

Alcoholic Drinks

Sake.  A popular Japanese wine made from fermented rice. It often has a light and floral flavor, pairing well with sushi, sushimi and nigiri.  

Suntory Draft.  An inexpensive brand of Japanese beer served across the country. 

Getting Around

Shinkansen.  The Shinkansen is Japan’s impressive network of high speed trains with routes across the country. The trains reach speeds of 177mph and are renowned for their reliability. 

Tokyo to Kyoto.  We took the Tokaido Shinkansen from Shinagawa Station in Tokyo to Kyoto Station. The high speed train took less than 2 hours & 30 minutes. The tickets are expensive, about $100 USD per person one way. 

Pro Tip.‍ ‍Sit on the right side of the train from Tokyo to Kyoto for views of Mt. Fuji. 

Local Trains.  The local trains in Kyoto are confusing at first but efficient when getting around. Maps above the ticket kiosks help to find the destination station and ticket price. Most maps have an English translation of the station names and numbers making it easy to identify. Google Maps and station attendants were our best friends when we felt unsure of where to go or how much to pay.

Good to Know. Multiple train companies operate different lines across the city on the same tracks. Instead of buying a pass and trying to stick to one train company, we purchased tickets as we went giving us the most flexibility to get around. 

On Foot.  Not all sights are directly near train lines. We typically walked the distance in between, ranging from a few hundred meters to over a kilometer. It was a fun way to see the city! 

Location Specifics

Credit vs Cash.  Japan is generally a cash leaning country. Credit cards are accepted at some businesses but it’s safe to expect needing to pay in cash. 

Otoshi (Covers).  Many restaurants, izakayas and bars will charge a cover when dining in. They often include a small snack or house appetizer. 

Tipping.  It is not necessary to tip at most businesses. Bill with often include a 10% service charge. 

No Shoes Indoors.  Japan is the strictest country we’ve visited when it comes to wearing shoes indoors. At most restaurants and accommodations, shoes must be left at the door before entering. 

Silence.  Silence is highly valued in Japanese culture, especially when walking on the streets or riding public transportation.

Body Language.  Pointing with fingers and crossing arms is considered rude. Use both hands when giving or receiving anything like cash, credit cards, receipts or tickets. A slight head bow is considered respectful when greeting someone or saying goodbye. 

Anti Foreigner Izakays.  Some izakayas refuse to serve foreign customers. Hosts or owners will say they’re closed, sold out or not open then proceed to seat Japanese speaking customers. When this happens, it’s best to brush it off and find somewhere else to dine.

Street Etiquette.  Don’t eat or drink while walking. It’s considered bad manners. Walk on the left side of the side walk. Follow the direction of Japanese people, not other tourists. Don’t walk on the escalators.

Reservations.  Most restaurants and bars only have about ten seats. It’s near impossible to dine or drink anywhere without a reservation. 

Language 

Knowing a few words and phrases in Japanese goes a long way when interacting with locals.

• Hello.  Kon'nichiwa (Kon-Knee-Che-Wa)

• Good Morning.  Ohayōgozaimas (Oh-Hi-O-Go-Sigh-Mas)

• Thank You.  Arigatōgozaimas (Are-E-Got-Toe-Go-Sigh-Mas) 

• You’re Welcome.  Dōitashimashite (Doe-Tie-She-Mash-Two)

• I Would Like.  O onegaishimasu (O-Own-E-Guy-She-Mas-Sue)

• Yes.  Hai (Hi)

• No.  Īe (E-Yea)

Where to Stay

Kyoto Airbnb.  A traditional Japanese house with tatami mat floors, paper thin walls, slinging doors and lanterns for lights. We slept on the floor mattresses, ate on the floor and overlooked the street from our second floor balcony. It’s located in a suburb of Kyoto which made getting into the city via the trains more difficult. Book here!

Elsewhere in Japan

From Kyoto's ancient temples and historic streets to Tokyo's urban energy, Osaka's culinary scene and Okinawa's subtropical islands, discover more of Japan through these travel guides:

Tokyo Travel Guide: Districts, Japanese Culture & Mt. Fuji.  Explore Japan's dynamic capital through vibrant neighborhoods, historic temples, world class cuisine and iconic views of Mount Fuji.

Osaka Travel Guide: Dotonbori, Street Food & Osaka Castle.  Experience Osaka through neon lit streets, legendary street food, bustling markets and the city's unmistakable urban energy.

Okinawa Travel Guide: Ryukyu Culture, Island Landscapes & Okinawan Cuisine.  Discover Japan's subtropical islands through Ryukyu heritage, coastal landscapes, turquoise waters and a unique regional food culture.

For Next Time…

Return during Autumn.  Kyoto is a magical place at all times of year. We plan to return one day during the fall time when the trees change colors and bath the city in a warm glow. 

Visit Hiroshima.  The city of Hiroshima is reachable by Shinkansen from Kyoto on day and overnight trips. It’s memorialized as a sight of the atomic bombings, famed as the birthplace of okonomiyaki and recognized for its “floating” red torii gate. 

Okinawa Travel Guide: Ryukyu Culture, Island Landscapes & Okinawan Cuisine

Okinawa, Japan

Okinawa is a chain of subtropical islands with lush landscapes, white sand beaches, turquoise waters and coral reefs. The archipelago makes up Japan's southernmost prefecture. While distinctly Japanese, the people preserve its indigenous history, folk traditions and connection to the sea. We spent a week here exploring the islands natural sights, savoring its local flavors, learning about its history and the Ryukyu Kingdom. 

Naha

Naha is the capital of Okinawa and its most populous city. It’s a quirkily and quiet place with pockets of excitement. Colorful paper lanterns decorate shop fronts while pairs of terracotta lions sit in front of homes. Neon lit shopping streets and late night izakayas lure in both locals and travelers. Sound effects ring from anything with a button, especially the abundance of street side vending machines. A monorail weaves across the city as vintage taxis and tiny cars drive on the left. Minimalist white tiled buildings contrast nearby historic castles and ancient forts. 

Kokusai Dori Street.  A commercial street in the center of Naha lined with palm trees, colorful neon lights and stores. Come here to shop for tropical attire, locally made goods and souvenirs. There are several Japanese restaurants, izakayas and bars here though most cater to tourists. The street is closed to vehicles, except for the occasional gang of street karts. 

Things to Do

Experience an Izakaya.  Izakayas are casual Japanese bars with small shareable plates and alcoholic beverages. They’re the most authentic places to experience Japanese culture, combining cuisine, music and design. Locals come here to unwind after work, celebrate or get together with friends. The atmosphere is often boisterous late into the evenings. Menus are handwritten in Japanese. Smoking is typically allowed. Some places charge a small cover. 

Kakurega Apparishan Izakaya.  A traditional Japanese izakaya with low tables and cushions on tatami mat floors. This is our favorite izakaya in all of Japan! We spent hours here eating, drinking, cheering and dancing with locals. The owner performed and sang Okinawan folk music while strumming a Sanshin, a traditional snake skin banjo. In between rounds of sake, we shared several Okinawan plates including umibudo,edamame, fish tempura, peanut tofu and tofu fish and Okinawa donuts.

Streetkart Okinawa.  One of the most exhilarating things to do in Japan is to join a street kart tour! Suited up in onesies as Pokémon characters, we rode street worthy go-karts on the roads and highways of Naha. Driving on the left, we slow rolled along Kokusai Dori Street, sped down highways and made a pit stop for ice cream at Senaga Island. Our guide took photos of us at traffic stops and printed out a few keepsakes at the end of the 2 hour experience. We booked with Street Kart Okinawa on Viator. 

Pro Tip.  Book a street kart tour Okinawa verses in other Japanese cities. They’re allowed to go significantly faster due to wider roads and less traffic! 

Visit The American Village.  The American Village is a themed entertainment complex and mall with colorful buildings, bright neon lights, a palm lined promenade and a range of businesses. It blends retro style with American and Japanese cultures. Shops sell western and local brands. Steak houses and burger restaurants alternate between izakayas and sushi bars. Conveniently, it’s located near a US military base. The sounds of aircraft are regular heard flying overhead while US personal visit while on break. 

Order from A Vending Machine.  Public vending machines are a cultural staple of Japan. They’re located in the most populous and sometimes obscure places. Most are stocked with beverages while some offer items like premade sushi, spam misube, ice cream, sriracha and cigarettes. 

Eat at Kokusai Street Food Village.  A food hall with several izakayas and small bars. Red, white and blue paper lanterns hang between wooden store fronts and string lights. Strangers sit shoulder to shoulder in the tightly packed dining areas. It’s a lively place, frequented by locals, especially after working hours. We sat down for drinks at Kinpachi, sipping on Orion Beer garnished with orange.

Drink at a Standing Bar.  A popular style of Japanese bar with standing room only. They’re meant for having a quick drink on the go or for gathering with a group. People stand at bar counters and tall tables while hosts serve beer, sake, spirits, snacks and sometimes small plates. Look for them near train stations, in alleyways or at markets. Visit Adachiya, alively standing bar hidden away in a dim alley near the Ichiba Hondori covered market.

Shop the Markets 

Ichiba Hondori.  A covered market street with over a hundred of vendors and shops selling many of the same goods as on Kokusai Dori Street. One of the big draws to this street are the locals sweets like Okinawa donuts, Beni Imo Tarts, pineapple cakes and ube ice cream. Other must visits are the Makishi Public Market and dimly lit alleyways with local izakayas and standing bars. Each offers Japanese snacks, small plates and local beers at affordable prices.

Makishi Public Market.  A two floor market with seafood vendors and restaurants. Come here to choose fresh seafood from vendors on the ground floor and have it prepared by restaurants on the second floor. Merchants display tanks with live sea snails, lobsters and sea urchins, packaged trays of ready to eat sashimi and piles of colorful reef fish on ice, including the infamous puffer fish! While primarily a seafood market, multiple vendors specialize in Kobe beef and Japanese meats. 

Select Your Seafood.  We selected a sea urchin, whole parrot fish and giant sea snail to have prepared. Pieces of each were served sashimi style by the sushi chef. The remainder of the fish was pan fried while half of the snail was sautéed in butter and garlic at Kiraku. We returned later in the week for a tray of sea urchin uni, fatty tuna sashimi and conch for a final dinner.

Pro Tip. Ask around and negotiate over price before buying anything. 

Good to Know.  We read this was a touristy spot when in fact many locals come here. It offers unique experience to try local seafood. Most tourists only come here to look around in between shopping for souvenirs on Ichiba Hondori. 

Tomari Iyumachi Fish Market.  A seafood market at the Naha Port. It’s a popular lunch spot for freshly caught seafood, especially for cuts of sushi grade tuna, scallop, shrimp and uni.

The Land of The Ryukyus

Okinawa was home to the Ryukyu Kingdom, an indigenous people that inhabited the islands for hundreds of years before Japanese control. Many archeological sights including the ruins of former castles still remain visible for exploration. 

Okinawa Prefectural Museum.  A museum dedicated to the history of the Ryukyu Kingdom from prehistoric times, to the height of their kingdom and collapse under Japanese imperialism. The museum displays prehistoric artifacts, portrays the island’s folklore and recounts the horrors of WW2. The contemporary design of the museum is designed in the style of a Ryukyu fort with curved and sloped walls. 

Shuri Kinjo Town Stone Paved Road.  A cobblestone road dating back hundreds of years to the peak of the Ruyuku Kingdom. It leads from Shuri Castle through a residential neighborhood with a mix of modern homes, traditional houses and small izakayas.

Shuri Castle.  A Ryukyu castle home to kingdom’s former government and royal family. It is surrounded by levels of steep curvilinear stone walls and cobblestone roads. The castle tragically burnt down in 2020 and has been under reconstruction since. When we visited in mid 2025, major progress had been made on the reproduction. The construction site was used as a working exhibit to showcase traditional methods of carpentry and artistry.

Zakimi Castle Ruins.  The hilltop ruins of a Ryukyu military fortress that date back to the early 13th century. The castle’s curvilinear stone walls follow the natural contours of the landscape. Inside are organic shaped courtyards with stone foundations of lost structures. Ramps and stairways lead to the top of the wall. It’s free to enter but rarely visited due to being located 1 hour from Naha and 45 minutes from Nago by car. 

Nagagusuku Castle.  A Ryukyu fortress left mostly untouched and in its original condition. Crumbling stone walls are built in layers around grassy enclosures on the ridge of a mountain. The sprawling fortress once housed to wooden buildings and royal halls. The archeological sight has been used to decipher Ryukyu symbols and language. 

Katsuren Castle Ruins.  Ryukyu ruins of a layered cliffside castle. Its steep curvilinear walls, views of the coast and a hidden cave were designed for protection. Its enclosures once housed a royal residence and gardens. Only the stone foundations remain. A museum displays many of the artifacts discovered from an excavation of the castle.

Okinawan Nature 

Okinawa has multitudes of natural sights including caves, waterfalls, beaches, sea arches and cliffs. We visited several on our road trip of the island. 

Ta-taki Falls.  A semi-secluded waterfall with a natural pool at its base. The 10 meter tall falls are reachable after a 30 minute hike up a riverside trail. Be prepared to get wet; it requires some wading up stream and traversing over rocks using pre-installed ropes. The falls are accessible from the Ta-taki Waterfall Parking.

Kouri Island.  A coastal island with beautiful beaches, farmland and a small town. It’s accessible by a series of bridges passing over shallow aquamarine hued waters. 

• Kouri Bridge View Point.  A beachfront lookout point before the bridge to Kouri Island. There is a small food truck park and boutique hotel accessible from the parking lot. 

• Kouri Beach.  A white sand beach across the Kouri Bridge with a shallow and swimmable waters. An underpass connects the beach to a scalloped promenade with views of bay. There are restaurants, cafes and a farmers market just beyond the beach. 

• Heart Rock. A beach with two coral rock formations resembling the shape of a heart. From certain angles, they even create a void of an upside down heart. The beach is reachable after a small trail from the parking lot. Parking costs 500 Yen. 

• Tokei Hama.  A soft yellow sand beach with shallow tide pools home to a variety of marine life including blue starfish, star brittles, small fish, corals and sea urchins. It’s reachable from the Heart Rock parking lot.

Cape Manzamo Sea Arch.  A cliffside lookout with a sea arche that resembles an elephant’s trunk.  It’s a very popular sight with a large tourist facility containing restaurants and shops. Many people come here for sunset. 

Cape Zanpa.  A cape at the westernmost point of Okinawa with cliffside trails, a historic lighthouse, ocean view lookouts and a nearby white sand beach.

Gyokusendo Cave.  Okinawa’s largest cave and one of the most impressive in Japan. A trail leads nearly 1km through its underground rooms and chambers. Thousands of densely packed stalactites dangle from the ceiling while stalagmites reach up from the floor and walkways. Dripping water echos from all corners of the cave and its underground rivers, waterfalls and calcified pools.

The cave system meanders beneath Okinawa World, a cultural theme park dedicated to the island’s culture, crafts, environment, history and cuisine. There is a glass and ceramics studio, brewery, bakery, performance theater, botanical garden and Ryukyu Kingdom exhibit. 

Pro Tip. Get here by 9am as the park opens to have first access to the cave! 

Cave Okinawa.  A 200 meter long limestone cave system with narrow passageways and wide chambers. A boardwalk leads through the chilly and damp cave above a flowing stream. Large crystalline formations and stalactites hang from the ceilings as the walls drip with water and bats flutter around. The stalactite covered final chamber is illuminated in a spectacle of color changing lights. 

Kerama Islands

Okinawa’s Kerama Islands are world renowned for their crystal clear waters and thriving marine ecosystems. They’re one of the few places in the world where coral reefs are not in decline. We visited three snorkeling spots on a full day tour and experienced our first introductory scuba dive. 

Go Snorkeling.  Beneath the surface of the crystal clear water is a world of teeming with life. We observed nebulous shaped corals and vibrant reefs home to poisonous sea snakes, bright colored star fish, multicolored parrot fish, fluttering pufferfish, playful clownfish and swaying anemones. Most reefs we visited were a minimum of 10 meters below the surface but easily visible.

Intro Scuba Diving.  The crew fitted us with wet suits, oxygen tanks and all the necessary scuba gear for our first dive. Led by an instructor, we slowly and comfortably descended into the depths. Once acclimated, we swam around the ocean floor past coral formations, starfish, sea cucumbers, anemone and clown fish. We spent about 30 minutes 10 meters below the surface exploring the underwater world. We booked our adventure with Marine House Seasir Kerama Islands on Trip Advisor. 

Golden Week

Japan’s Golden Week encompasses multiple national holidays and celebrations in late April through early May. Okinawa is a popular destination, famed for its cultural activities and Dragon Boat Races. 

Naha Hari Festival (The Dragon Boat Festival).  The Dragon Boat Festival is a yearly event held during Okinawa’s Golden Week. Teams of rowers race Dragon Boats, traditional wooden canoes designed with the head of a dragon on their bow. The race is symbolic of Okinawa and its culture around the sea. It dates back to the Ryukyu Kingdom as a way to pray for safe voyage and good catch. Today it is a celebrated continuation of tradition. The festival is accompanied by tents with fair games, street food vendors and Orion beer gardens. It ends with a musical performance and firework show over the harbor. The festival is held every year on May 5 at the Naha Port, north of the Tomari Iyumachi Fish Market. 

Pro Tip.  In between races, stop by the Naha Hari Museum, a nearby museum dedicated to the history of the Dragon Boat Festival. The boats are displayed here when not being raced.  

Places to Eat & Drink 

El Lequio.  An elevated cocktail bar with Japanese and Mexican fusion cocktails made from an impressive “library” of spirits. It’s regularly reviewed as one of the top 50 bars in the world. Sit at the bar and watch the mixologists present signature cocktails. Try the Have A Blast, a mezcal and shochu cocktail or the Lequio Libre made with Okinawan rum and house made cola. 

Bar Accord.  A cocktail bar with Japanese made spirits, primarily whisky and gin. It has an old world feel, emphasized by the number of smoking patrons and dim lights. We sipped on local spirits accompanied by rice crackers and wasabi peas. 

Hamaton Sushi.  An izakaya with a range of sharing plates including soba, tempera, flamed mackerel and assorted plates of sashimi. We came here for our first meal in Japan! 

Syokudo and Teishoku Restaurant.  A rooftop restaurant in a small hotel with the classic Japanese breakfast combination of miso soup and onigiri. Try the onigiri made with bonito flakes and mayonnaise or spicy cod roe and cream cheese.

Ryukyu Soft Serve Ice Cream.  A soft serve ice cream shop on Ichiba Hondori with ube and vanilla flavors paired with local sweets and desserts. We shared the Ryukyu Premium Plate, an ice cream Sunday made with both flavors and topped with Okinawa donuts, beni imo tarts, short bread and ube cookies. 

Blue Seal Ice Cream.  A popular ice cream chain with American and Okinawan flavors like beni-imo, ube, matcha and cheese cake. 

Okinawan Cuisine 

Japan is world renowned for its cuisine, flavors and culinary presentation. Okinawa shares many of the same dishes as the rest of the Japan but it also has its own specialities and some of the country’s freshest seafood.

Seafood Dishes

• Sashimi. High quality pieces of thinly sliced raw seafood eaten without rice. It can be prepared with any type of seafood like tuna, mackerel, scallop, octopus or sea snail. 

• Okinawa Uni.  A Japanese delicacy made from the roe of edible sea urchins. Uni from Okinawa has a slightly sweeter taste than the famed Hokkaido uni but with a buttery and umami forward flavor. 

• Giant Top Snail.  A large sea snail only found in the waters of Okinawa. It’s popular served raw as sashimi or cooked with butter and garlic. 

Street Food  

• Taiyaki.  A fish shaped pastry with a waffle like flavor. Is often stuffed with red bean paste, custard or ube. 

• Takoyaki.  Octopus batter molded into bite size spheres and garnished with kewpie mayo, eel sauce and bonito flakes. It’s a popular Japanese street food dish.

• Dondon Yaki.  A savory pancake wrapped around a chopstick made from egg, cabbage, green onion, bonito flakes, eel sauce and kombu seaweed. It’s typically served as street food in markets. 

Rice and Noodle Dishes

• Onigiri.  A triangular shaped packet of Japanese sticky rice with a savory filling wrapped in nori seaweed. It’s a popular breakfast, lunch or on the go snack. A favorite filling is tuna with mayo. 

• Spam Misubi.  Sliced Span served over seasoned sticky rice and wrapped with a band of nori. It’s popular across the island, specifically in super markets. 

• Tamago Rice.  Hot Japanese sticky rice seasoned with tamago, a sweet and salty seafood forward seasoning. It’s a common breakfast dish. 

• Tamago Kake Gohan.  The same as tamago rice but with an egg cracked on top and vigorously mixed using chop sticks until coagulated.

• Soba Noodles.  A buckwheat noodle dish often boiled and served with vegetables, meats and sauces. It’s usually served cold. 

• Yaki Soba.  Similar to traditional soba noodles but fried and served warm. 

Soups

• Okinawa Style Soba Noodle Soup.  A soba noodle soup made with dashi broth and served with fish cakes, green onions, mushrooms and sliced pork. 

• Miso Soup.  A flavorful umami forward soup made with miso paste broth, nori seaweed, bits of silken tofu and sliced scallion. It’s commonly slurped at breakfast. 

Egg Dishes

• Japanese Omelette.  A fluffy and layered egg omelette made with dashi broth in a rectangular Japanese pan.

• Egg Salad Sandwich.  A popular sandwich made with an egg and mayo mixture spread between crustless slices of white bread. It’s often presented in halves with a sliced jammy egg at its center.

Fried Dishes

• Tempura & Katsu. Two types of battered and fried dishes. The first is made with a flour batter while the latter is made with panko bread crumbs. 

• Chanpuru.  A stir fried dish made with bitter melon, tofu, eggs and pork. It’s common for breakfast. 

Seaweed.  A common side dish, seasoning and important base in Japanese cuisine. 

• Nori.  Sheets of dried seaweed often used to wrap rice dishes or flavors and eaten as a snack. 

• Combu.  A hardy and dried seaweed often used to make soups and broths like dashi. 

• Umibudo.  A type of seaweed known as sea grapes. They have a salty and satisfying crunch that bursts with flavor.  

• Mozuku.  A stringy brown seaweed with a savory and salty flavor. It’s a common side dish in Okinawa. 

Desserts 

• Beni Imo.  A purple sweet potato cooked into pastries and ice cream. Try the Beni Imo Tarts, an ovular tart with piped ribbons of beni imo cream. 

• Okinawa Donuts.  Craggily and cakey fried dough balls. 

• Pineapple Cake.  A cakey bread made with pineapple jam and chunks. 

Alcoholic Beverages 

• Orion Beer. A locally brewed rice beer with a light and hoppy flavor sold and served everywhere in Okinawa. Try it with a slice orange to enhance its flavor. 

• Sake.  Japanese fermented rice wine. It comes in a complex range of flavors depending on rice type, polishing, filtration and alcohol content. 

• Awamori.  A liquor made from fermented rice wine aged in clay pots with black koji, a type of mold. It tastes like an earthy sake and is typically served over ice.

Where to Stay

Delights Guest House Tsubogawa.  An apartment building with individually appointed rental units. Our studio was designed with wooden accents, coral plastered walls and a stained glass sconce. It included a balcony with a laundry machine, toilet with a high tech bidet and a kitchen perfect for cooking our own meals in. It’s near a Yui Rail station, minutes from the airport and city center. Reserve on Airbnb. 

Getting Around 

There are several ways to get around Okinawa and the city of Naha. 

Yui Rail.  A single line monorail with stations across Naha. The line starts at the airport and weaves through the city to the town of Urasoe. It’s the city’s most efficient form of public transit, operating from 6am to 11pm. Individual tickets are available from kiosks at every station. The cost depends on the distance traveled with fares ranging around a few hundred yen. 

GO.  A taxi hailing app popular across Japan. It’s perfect for getting to destinations too far from a Yui Rail station or too far to walk. Rides can be expensive. 

On Foot.  Naha is an easily walkable city. We often walked up to 30 minutes to get around when not near the Yui Rail.

By Car.  A rental car is needed to explore the island outside of Naha. 

Driving in Japan 

Driving in Japan was an intimidating thought but turned out to be far easier than expected. There are a few things that are good to know beforehand. 

• Drive on the Left.  The Japanese drive on the left side of the road. It was surprisingly easy for a first timer, especially when following the flow of traffic. The only mistake made was continually confusing the turn signal and windshield wiper levers. 

• Metric System.  Distance and speed is measured in meters and kilometers. 

• Road Signs.  Road signs are in both Japanese and English. 

• Refueling.  Gas station attendants refuel the vehicle for you. 

Rental Cars.  We rented our car from Okinawa Rent A Car near the Naha Airport. Cars can be reserved in advance, paid at pick up and driven off with no concerns. An international drivers license (IDP) with a Japanese translation is required in addition to your regular driver’s license. 

Location Specifics

When to Visit. We visited Okinawa in early May at the beginning of the rainy season. Skies were regularly overcast with pockets of rain showers. Though is wasn’t beach weather, we still enjoyed our time visiting outdoor sights, scuba diving and exploring caves. Golden Week is always the first week of May and the Dragon Boat Festival is held every May 5th. 

Credit vs Cash.  Japan is generally a cash leaning country. Credit cards are accepted at some businesses but it’s safe to expect needing to pay in cash. 

Otoshi (Covers).  Many restaurants, izakayas and bars will charge a cover when dining in. They often include a small snack or house appetizer. 

Tipping.  It is not necessary to tip at most businesses. Bill with often include a 10% service charge. 

No Shoes Indoors.  Japan is the strictest country we’ve visited when it comes to wearing shoes indoors. At most restaurants and accommodations, shoes must be left at the door before entering. 

Body Language.  Pointing with fingers and crossing arms is considered rude. Use both hands when giving or receiving anything like cash, credit cards, receipts or tickets. A slight head bow is considered respectful when greeting someone or saying goodbye. 

Anti Foreigner Izakays.  Some izakayas refuse to serve foreign customers. Hosts or owners will say they’re closed, sold out or not open then proceed to seat Japanese speaking customers. When this happens, it’s best to brush it off and find somewhere else to dine.

Language. Knowing a few words and phrases in Japanese goes a long way when interacting with locals.

• Hello.  Kon'nichiwa (Kon-Knee-Che-Wa)

• Good Morning.  Ohayōgozaimas (Oh-Hi-O-Go-Sigh-Mas)

• Thank You.  Arigatōgozaimas (Are-E-Got-Toe-Go-Sigh-Mas) 

• You’re Welcome.  Dōitashimashite (Doe-Tie-She-Mash-Two)

• I Would Like.  O onegaishimasu (O-Own-E-Guy-She-Mas-Sue)

• Yes.  Hai (Hi)

• No.  Īe (E-Yea)

Elsewhere in Japan

From Okinawa's Ryukyu heritage and island scenery to Tokyo's city life, Kyoto's temples and Osaka's food culture, discover more of Japan with these these travel guides:  

Tokyo Travel Guide: Districts, Japanese Culture & Mt. Fuji.  Explore Japan's dynamic capital through vibrant neighborhoods, historic temples, world class cuisine and iconic views of Mount Fuji.

Kyoto Travel Guide: Temples, Historic Districts & Japanese Culture.  Wander through Kyoto's historic districts, where ancient temples, traditional gardens and centuries of Japanese culture continue to thrive.

Osaka Travel Guide: Dotonbori, Street Food & Osaka Castle.  Experience Osaka through neon lit streets, legendary street food, bustling markets and the city's unmistakable urban energy.

For Next Time…

We loved our time in Okinawa and hope to return! Next time, we plan to visit during the peak of the dry season, from March to April. We want to experience Okinawa’s famed blue seas, more of its underwater life, white sand beaches and golden sunsets.

Oodomari Beach.  A secluded and sandy beach on the far east side of Okinawa well reviewed for snorkeling. 

Sesoko Beach.  A white sand beach with turquoise waters and snorkeling. 

Churami Aquarium.  A massive aquarium with a tank housing whale sharks and manta rays. Cape Hedo.  The northern most point of Okinawa known for its rocky cliffs, ocean views and sea turtles. 

Luang Prabang Travel Guide: Temples, Markets & Lao Culture

Luang Prabang, Laos

Luang Prabang is the cultural center and former royal capital of present day Laos. Situated along the banks of the Mekong River, the historic town features a former royal palace, Buddhist wats and monasteries, traditional wooden houses and elegant French colonial architecture. As the sun rises, saffron robed monks process through the streets to receive alms. Locals and travelers shop at morning and night markets for street food, handicrafts and locally farmed goods. Along the riverfront, charming cafes and palmed shaded restaurants create a relaxed atmosphere while long boats ferry sightseers on sunset cruises. Turquoise hued waterfalls and dramatic caves adorned with hundreds of Buddha statues await in the county’s lush interior. Visiting for a week, we lived on a private houseboat while exploring this remarkable city. 

The Historic Center 

The historic center is built upon a narrow peninsula between the Mekong and Nam Khan Rivers. Brick laid sidewalks and old architecture make for beautiful walks through the city. Traditional dark wooden houses and French colonial style buildings are designed with pitched clay tiled roofs, teak wooden facades, neutral colored walls and painted shutters. Paper lanterns are suspended from awnings, the Laos & communist flags wave in the breeze while tuk tuks zip by. It’s common to see monks walking the streets in their characteristic saffron robes. Buddhist wats and a former royal palace comprise some of the UNESCO city’s most beautiful sights. 

The Main Street.  The Historic Center’s main street has a north and a south section, each with different road names and their own vibes. 

• Sakkaline Road.  The northern end of the main street has a calm atmosphere with iconic wats, lush with flowering trees, small guesthouses and an array of cute cafes. It ends at a small park with views of where the green waters of the Nam Khan River and brown waters of the Mekong meet. 

• Sisavanvong Road.  The southern end of the main street has a more bustling feeling with boutiques and shops, porch side patios, Buddhist wats, the former royal palace and a daily night market. It continues further into the city. 

The Riverfront.  The riverfront promenade is lined with palm trees, fragrant plumerias, cafes and restaurants. Their bamboo furniture, thatched awnings and twinkle lights create a rustic and jungleous atmosphere. Tour operators offer sunset river cruises down the Mekong on traditional long boats as the current flows past.

The Mekong River.  One of the largest rivers in South East Asia, winding through multiple countries and countless communities. From Luang Prabang, we boated upstream along the rugged countryside, past mountainous landscapes and small riverside villages. We saw people fishing from narrow canoes and spotted the occasional heard of goats and water buffalo. 

Cultural Activities 

The Almsgiving Ceremony.  Each morning, Buddhist monks and monk novices from the town’s many wats process through the streets of historic center accepting alms from people as they pass by. The alms serve as food and a blessing for the monks. Almsgivers often place snacks or scoop small handfuls of sticky rice into their baskets from street side chairs. Vendors sell containers of sticky rice and plates of snacks for 20,000 - 60,000 Kip. The ceremony starts at 5am and wraps up around 6:30am.

Pro Tip.  Arrive by 5:30am. The best places to give alms are in front of wats or along Sakkaline Road. 

Good to Know. Be respectful of the monks, especially when taking photos. Do not interrupt their procession or touch them. 

The Royal Ballet.  A traditional ballet performance with over two dozen dancers dressed in elaborate silk costumes, painted face masks and golden pointed crowns. Musicians play classical Lao instruments including wooden xylophones, brass gongs and drums. We saw the final chapter the Thotsakan, a Hindu and Buddhist legend, telling the story of how the king of demons is defeated in battle. The dancers moved gracefully, in rhythmic motions and moved suddenly for dramatic effect.  The performance lasted an hour and was truly a cultural and visual treat. The theater offer one show per night multiple times per week in the Ramayana Hall at the National Museum.

Pro Tip. Arrive a day before the performance to get first pick of the seats.

Volunteer at The Little Mouse.  A non-profit school promoting and teaching literacy and language across Laos. Children and novice monks from the countryside come here daily to practice English with travelers. Drop in during the mornings or late afternoons to chat with chat with them and help their education. 

See the Sights 

Luang Prabang National Museum.  The museum and grounds feature the royal residence of Laos’ former monarchy. A palm lined driveway leads to its entrance and reception decorated with colorful paintings of the countryside. The elaborate throne room is decorated in colorful glass mosaics depicting stories of Lao history and the Prabang Buddha. On display are Buddhist and royal relics including thrones, crowns, swords, houdahs, amulets, clothing and statuettes. The remainder of the home is more simplistic with tall ceilings, wide corridors along the perimeter and spacious bedrooms. 

Good to Know. It’s strictly forbidden to take photos or wear shoes inside the building. The museum and grounds close from 11:30am-1:30pm.

Prabang Buddha Image Pavilion.  An ornately designed pagoda with gilded embellishments, emerald glass mosaics and dragon staircases. It houses the Prabang Buddha, a golden statue of the Buddha dating back to the first century. It’s one of the most important historical sights so much so that the city was named Luang Prabang after it. It’s located on the grounds of the Luang Prabang National Museum.

Wat Xiengthong.  The largest Buddhist wat in the historic district with several chapels, stupas, drum tower, royal carriage house, ceremonial boats, dormitories and a wood shop. The wat is school and home for many young monk novices. 

• Carriage House.  A red painted building stylized with golden patterns and reliefs. It houses a gilded wooden carriage with large funereally urns and is adorned with the Naga, a seven headed serpent deity. Surrounding it are numerous statues of the Buddha.

• Sim.  A grand and historic Buddhist chapel in the central courtyard. It has a white plaster and blue glass mosaic tiled base with heads of elephants. Its black facade is painted in gold leaf patterns and images of the Buddha. It has a multitiered clay tiled roof with bright green mosaic cornices. Inside its red toned hall is a large golden Buddha statue with many smaller ones encompassing it. The chapel is surrounded by smaller shrines and stupas adorned with colorful glass mosaics that tell stories of farming, conquests and the Buddha’s teaching on the facades. 

• Drum Tower.  A tower with several suspended drums used by monks at times throughout the day to denote time. Visit at 4pm to hear them echo across wat. 

• Boat Shelter.  A pavilion housing ceremonial boats and converted into a wood shop. Monks craft replacement pieces to repair and maintain the wat and its many structures using traditional and decorative techniques while preserving ancient practices.

Wat Sensoukharam.  A Buddhist temple complex with several pagoda style halls, monk residences, ceremonial boats, a golden stupa, drum tower and wood shop. The main halls feature multitiered and stepped roofs decorated with colorful glass mosaic cornices. These red and gold painted facades display elaborate designs, patterns and images of the Buddha.

Wat Mai Monastery.  A Buddhist wat and monastery home to studying monks. At its center is a red painted pagoda style temple covered inside and out with golden ornamentation and detailing. The most notable is a gilded wall at the entrance depicting a visual story of the Buddha. Inside is a shrine with a large golden Buddha statue surrounded by dozens of smaller Buddha statues.

Luang Prabang Heritage House.  A cultural center and museum dedicated to preserving the history, traditions and customs of Luang Prabang. Inside the rooms of a historic wooden stilt house are displays with classical musical instruments, cooking equipment, textiles, clothing and ceremonial home goods. Cooking and craft classes like bamboo weaving and mulberry paper making are regularly offered. Locals come here to rent traditional clothes for photoshoots around the property. An adjoined cafe offers local dishes and herbal teas. We drank iced beal fruit and pandan leaf teas on cushions under the stilt house. The museum is located on a brick alleyway surrounded by Buddhist wats and other historic homes. 

Wat Pa Hauk.  A small temple at the base of Phousi Hill across from the National Museum. It features a mix of architectural elements including wooden columns, ornately carved moldings, a detailed facade and roof inlaid with gold, silver, blue and green glass mosaic tiles. 

Phousi Hill.  A scared mountain in the middle of the city with a golden stupa at its summit. Dragon stairs and walkways lead across its slopes past Buddhist statues, shrines and a monastery. On a clear day, the summit offers panoramic views of the city, its pitched clay tiled roofs, leafy palm trees, the Mekong River and distant mountains. It’s a popular place to watch the sunset. 

Wat Visounnarath.  A Buddhist temple complex dating back over 500 years with temple halls, stupas and wooden structures home to studying monks and sacred texts. One of the most notable sights is The Watermelon Stupa. A reconstructed large white stupa with a square platform, golden lotuses at all four corners and a dome on top that resembles a watermelon. When it collapsed, it revealed statues of the Buddha that are on display in the throne hall of the National Museum.

Explore the Nature

Kuang Si Waterfall.  A picturesque waterfall spilling down a jungleous cliff covered with calcified nodules into a series of cascading terraces. Aquamarine hued water overflows from the terraces into natural pools, offering refreshing places to swim. A 500+ step staircase leads from the base of the waterfall to a countryside lookout with treehouse style observation decks, a zip line course and nature trail. The trail leads to milky blue stream fed by a cold spring at the top of the waterfall. It continues 3km deeper into the jungle to a cave and back to the base of the falls.

Khoun Moung Keo Waterfall.  A small waterfall with a natural swimming pool at its base filled with cool aquamarine water. There is a tranquil restaurant with views of the falls, lounges and an outdoor dining area. It’s located less than five minutes on foot from the Kuang Si Waterfall welcome center.

Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Center.  A sanctuary for Asiatic Black Bears located between the Kuang Si Waterfall and its visitor center. A nature trail leads through dense primary forest to open air enclosures with the jet black bears. We watched the fluffy and cute animals walking around, sleeping in hammocks and chewing on vegetables. 

Getting Here.  Kuang Si Waterfall is located about 45min from Luang Prabang by Tuk Tuk. We hired a driver to bring us there and back and wait 3 hours while we explored. We negotiated the cost to 500K Kip. 

Good to Know.  Arrive by 9am to beat the rush of tourists and larger groups. 

Pak Ou Caves.  A cave temple located two hours up the Mekong River from Luang Prabang. It’s believed to be one of the homes of the Buddha. Above a steep staircase is an upper cave and lower cave, each housing thousands of wooden and metal statues of the Buddha. The upper cave is guarded by a large red wooden door with Buddhist altar and golden cave paintings of the Buddha. The lower cave and its rock formations are adorned in a vast number of Buddha statues, some dating back hundreds of years. 

Getting Here.  The public ferry offers a scenic route up Mekong River in route to Pak Ou Caves. It departs from Watnong Boat Station. The ferry begins operating between 8-9am. Round trip tickets include a stop at The Whisky Village and 40 minutes at the caves. It costs $150K Kip per person. 

Shop the Markets 

Luang Prabang Morning Market.  A daily morning farmers market branching across several narrow alleyways in the historic center. Vendors display their goods on banana leafs and tarps including vegetables, fruits, herbs, spices, teas, eggs, meats and fish. We even spotted more exotic items like live frogs, roasted beetles and water buffalo skin. We shopped here for groceries, planning to cook several local dishes. Some items on our grocery list were kefir lime leaves, mint, galangal, watercress, chili paste, banana blossoms and leafs, rice, mango, rose apple, dragon fruit, tamarind, guava and avocado. We sipped on fresh orange and sugar cane juice while shopping around. 

Pro Tip.‍ ‍Arrive by 7:30am to get the best picks. 

Luang Prabang Night Market.  A daily night market in the historic district along Sisavangvong Road with a section for food and thing vendors. Merchants line both sides of the road selling bohemian style clothing and accessories covered in elephant print, geometric paper lanterns inlaid with leaves and flower pedals, paintings depicting the historic district, woven baskets, wooden statuettes, brass jewelry, painted coconut bowls and plumeria hair clips. Street food carts surround a courtyard lined with picnic tables selling Laos style sausages, Chinese dim sum, Korean tteokbokki, Japanese pancakes, Taiwanese boba tea, grilled skewers with veggies, seafood and meat, baked goods and pastries, local beers and spirits. The food carts continue down an adjacent alleyway. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

For a small town, Luang Prabang has no shortage of restaurants, cafes and bars with Laotian cuisine, local flavors and tranquil ambiance. 

• Cafe Toui.  A restaurant specializing in Lao cuisine. The menu consists of national and local dishes as well as vegetarian versions of typically meat forward ones. All plates are meant to be shared. We split the Khai Phaen, Yam Salad and Mok Pa alongside a liter of Beer Lao. 

• Alounsavth Bakery Cafe & Restaurant.  A riverside restaurant with inexpensive meals and drinks. It’s open early for breakfast and well past the sunset for dinner. Their menu includes a range of traditional Laos dishes and flavors. It’s a popular spot amongst locals, expats and other travelers.

• Le Banneton.  An adorable French style bakery with Laos flavors in its bakes and beverages. We shared a plate of pastries including a coconut and apricot danish, a flaky and buttery croissant & a pear and chocolate turnover. They also sell traditional baguettes and full breakfast entrees. 

• 3 Nagas.  A locally commended cocktail bar in a historic home. Try their namesake, 3 Nagas made with local ingredients like mango juice and honey or the Nam Khan made with rum and kaffir lime syrup. Visit during happy hour for their buy 1 get 1 special. 

• Obama Coconut.  A riverfront cafe inspired by Obama’s visit to Luang Prabang in 2016 when he was photographed sipping on a coconut. We stopped in for coconuts overlooking the Mekong. 

• Soodsoi Mini Bar.  A street side bar cart at the end of the alleyway night market with a range of local spirits like Lao Lao whisky, Laodi rum and Lao gin. The bartender mixes affordable and classic cocktails.

• Aon Noy Bakery.  A bakery cart at both the morning and night markets with a range of baked goods like coconut and almond croissants, banana bread, guava danishes, baguettes and brownies. 

• Leisure Thibe.  An ice cream shop with local flavors like pandan, coconut, taro, durian and matcha as well as western flavors like chocolate, vanilla and strawberry.  

Laotian Cuisine 

• Khai Phaen.  A popular snack made from crispy river weed covered in toasted sesame seeds and served with a spicy chili paste.  

• Sticky Rice.  A sticky variety of steamed rice. It’s eaten daily by most people in Laos. There are two common types. White often served with sliced mango and Black often served with freshly grated coconut. 

• Yam Salad.  A typical Lao salad made from lettuce, water grass, mixed herbs, boiled egg and a tangy sauce. 

• Mok Pa.  A delectable dish made with fish from the Mekong River steamed inside a packet of banana leaves with herbs and coconut custard. 

• Sour Fish Soup.  Fish soup cooked with Mekong River fish and a tasty broth made with tamarind, lemon grass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves and chile peppers. 

• Khao Jee Pate.  A French inspired sandwich similar to a Vietnamese Banh Mi. It’s made on a baguette with a base of liver pate, blanched carrots and cucumber, a mix of local herbs including lemon grass, kaffir lime leaves, thai basil and galangal.  

• Tofu Larb.  Spicy tofu cooked with roasted and ground rice mixed with lemon grass, mint, cilantro, garlic chives, chili and lime. 

• Cheun Yaw.  Laos style spring rolls with a thin and crispy fried exterior. They’re less flaky than classic Chinese spring rolls but no less tasty. Each roll is stuffed with veggies, meat or seafood and served with a sweet and sour peanut sauce. 

• Lao Omelette.  A golden fried egg omelette filled with a range of herbs like cilantro, dill, chives, lemongrass, basil and galangal. 

• Coconut Pancakes.  Gelatinous rice mixed with shaved coconut, formed into patties and grilled.

• Banana Leaves.  While not eaten, many dishes are cooked inside of banana leaves or served on top of them. 

• Butterypea Flower Tea.  A tiny blue flower used to make a floral tea.  It’s also used for coloring white sticky rice.

• Jeow Bong Paste.  A sweet and spicy paste made from dried chili peppers, galangal, garlic and fish sauce. It often has pieces of water buffalo skin. 

• Lao Lao Whisky.  A clear but potent whisky aged in clay jugs. It’s popular across Laos.

• Beer Lao.  The national beer of Laos. Its lager comes in variety of types named after colors as well as a light IPA.

Where to Stay 

Seangsouly Houseboat.  We stayed on a private houseboat docked along the banks of Mekong River in the French colonial old town. The boat is massive, measuring over 100ft long. We relaxed on the rooftop deck, cooked in the outdoor kitchen, dining on traditional furniture and watched the sunset almost nightly. It was an adventurous home and relaxing oasis. We booked our stay on Airbnb.

Location Specifics

Fire & Smoke Weather.  From March through April, northern Laos endures high heat and dry weather. A mixture of forest fires and slash and burn farming indicate the region in a thick haze of smoke, often reaching very unhealthy and hazardous levels. We continually tracked the air quality on IQ Air, minimizing our exposure when possible.

Mosquitos.  Mosquitos and malaria are prevalent along the Mekong River and throughout Laos. We took anti malaria pills during our trip and used insect repellant. 

Dress Modestly.  Wearing pants and covering shoulders when visiting wats, sacred places and cultural sights. It’s forbidden to wear shoes or hats inside. 

Monk Photography.  Be respectful when taking photos of monks. Keep distance and do not interrupt their activities. 

Language.  People in Laos speak Lao. Many local people also know basic English and appreciate practicing with visitors. 

Tickets.  Most sights charge a small entrance fee, usually between 30,000 - 60,000 Kip, equivalent to $2-3 USD. 

Cash vs Card.  Cash is the only accepted. No businesses, cultural sights or vendors accept credit or debit card. 

Currency.  The Lao Kip is the only currency accepted. It is illegal to pay for goods, services, etc. in foreign currency. There are banks to exchange currency and ATMs to withdraw cash throughout the city. 

Getting Around 

Airport Taxi.  A taxi stand just past immigration and customs offers shared rides from the airport to the Old City for 100,000 Kip for 1-2 people. The ride takes less than 15 minutes. 

On Foot.  The Old Town and city are relatively small and easily walkable. 

By Ferry.  There is a public ferry operating daily from 8am to 6:30pm offering trips down the Mekong River to different villages and sights. Round trip tickets cost 150,000 Kip per person regardless of distance. 

Tuk Tuk.  Three wheeled hybrids between a motorcycle are car are readily available across the city. Drivers will bring passengers around the city for 50,000 Kip and to further away distances for 500,000 Kip. 

For Next Time…

We throughly enjoyed our time in Luang Prabang and can’t wait to return to Laos to visit other areas of the country. 

Vientiane.  The capital city of Laos. It’s home to impressive Buddhist temples, French colonial architecture, palm lined boulevards and countless cafes. 

Vang Vang.  A small town along the Mekong River with scenic views of the countryside and rice paddies. It’s popular for its river cruises, tubing excursions and hot air balloon flights.  

Three Whales Rock.  A rock formation in the Thai jungle that resembles a pod of three whales. It’s accessible from Vientiane along the Mekong River. 

Plain of Jars.  An archeological site comprised of thousands of large stone jars scattered across multiple fields and sites. They date back to 500 BCE during the Iron Age. 

Singapore Travel Guide: Marina Bay, Hawker Food & Cultural Districts

A Weekend in Singapore

Singapore is living in the future! The city seamlessly blends architecture and nature with its contemporary marvels. The oldest neighborhoods are lined with rows of colorful and historic shop houses. It’s a sophisticated urban playground with cultural institutions, renowned cocktail bars and food halls serving Singaporean and regional cuisine. We spent a long weekend here, exploring the city-state and its alluring ambience.

Arab Quarter

The Arab Quarter is a historic neighborhood of Singapore home to a large Arab population and unique cultural identity. The scent of Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisine wafts from Turkish bakeries and Lebanese grills. Persian rug stores, batik & silk textile vendors and bazaar style souvenir shops occupy ground floor businesses. Streets named after Middle Eastern countries and cities cross the neighborhood. Colorful and ornate shop houses differing in height line the streets. 

Sultan Mosque.  A white stone and golden domed mosque at the end of a Palm lined pedestrian street. It’s one of the most photogenic and visited sights in the Arab Quarter.

Arab Street.  The main road leading through the Arab Quarter with some of the neighborhood’s oldest and most beautiful shop houses. The single to three floor buildings often have Baroque plaster facades, arched windows with wooden shutters, clay tiled roofs and covered sidewalks.

Muscat Street.  An alleyway with eclectic, colorful and funky murals covering the backsides of the shop houses. 

Haji Lane.  A narrow lane known locally for its nightlife and vibrantly painted street art, colorful murals and neon graffiti. Restaurants and bars spill out into the lane, visited by hundreds of people nightly. Live music echos from some bars, particularly the lively, Blu Jazz Club. 

China Town

China Town is one of Singapore’s most historic and vibrant neighborhoods. It is a multicultural district with Chinese influences representative of the city’s modern diversity. The street scene is comprised of eastern and western restaurants, world class cocktail bars, local cafes, bustling night markets and hawker food halls. It’s home to many worldly expats and even LGBTQ+ friendly businesses flying progress flags. Palm lined streets and covered alleyways are flanked by colorful shop houses and religious temples. 

Chinatown Street Market. A large street and night market spanning several streets throughout Chinatown with vendors and shops selling souvenirs and street food.  

Smith Street.  A covered street with beautifully restored and vibrantly painted shop houses home to restaurants and shops. 

Ann Siang Hill Park.A small hilltop park with a winding path surrounded by lush greenery and skyscrapers. 

Thian Hock Keng Temple.  A Taoist temple decorated with dragon columns, Chinese lanterns, golden accents and ornate carvings. 

Buddha Tooth Relic Temple.  A large Chinese style Buddhist temple and museum. It’s red and gold tiered pagoda design makes is one of the best examples of Chinese architecture in Chinatown. Inside are sacred artifacts said to belong to the Buddha. 

Little India

Little India is a neighborhood with many Indian influences, residents and businesses. The scents of spices, incense and Indian cuisine wafts from street side markets, Hindu temples and Biryani restaurants. Baroque style shop houses are home to tea rooms, barbers, jewelers and electronics stores.

Clarke Quay

Clarke Quay is lively neighborhood along the Singapore River promenade with brightly painted shop houses, covered streets, touristy restaurants and shopping malls. It’s the launching point for Bumboat Cruises, a sightseeing tour of the Singapore River and Marina Bay on a traditional wooden boat. The narrated boat tour passes several of the city’s most prominent sights and neighborhoods over the course of 40 minutes.

Boat Quay

Boat Quay is historic neighborhood along the Singapore River with an arc of colorful shop houses and waterfront restaurants. The promenade is lively well into the evening with numerous bars and seafood restaurants specializing in Singapore’s famed chili crab. 

Marina Bay

Marina Bay is Singapore’s famed bay and waterfront walkway. It’s surrounded by modern glass skyscrapers, monuments, museums, luxury stores and hotels, most notably the iconic Marina Bay Sands Hotel. 

Spectra - A Light and Water Show.  A free light and water show in front of Mariana Bay Sands. Fountains spray jets of water and mist into the air as choreographed projectors and lights illuminate them in various colors and images. 

Good to Know.  Shows happen nightly at 8pm. Arrive about 30 minutes early to get a seat along the viewing steps. 

Marina Bay Sands.  Singapore’s most iconic building, recognizable by its three towers connected on top by a large boat shaped platform. The entertainment complex hosts a hotel, mall, casino and series of restaurants. Its platform has an observation deck and multiple rooftop restaurants. We visited Sprago, an elegant bar with views of the city, gardens by the bay, the super trees and strait with hundreds of large container boats. 

Gardens by The Bay.  An impressive city park set against the backdrop of Marina Bay Sands. Its verdant gardens and walkways are home to the famed Super Tree Grove, Cloud Forest and Flower Dome. One can easily spend a whole day exploring the garden’s many sights and wonders. 

The Super Tree Grove.  The Super Trees are series of towering vertical gardens with latticed canopies resembling the shape of trees. Self sustaining local flora grows from planters covering their exterior. At night, the trees are illuminated in vibrant color changing lights. Walking around the Super Trees is a mesmerizing experience both day and night! 

Super Tree Skyway.  A 22m high skyway connecting multiple Super Trees with breathtaking views and perspectives of the surrounding grove, gardens and Marina Bay Sands. 

Super Tree Observatory.  A 60m high observatory on the roof of the tallest Super Tree with panoramic views and an indoor cafe. We preferred the perspective from the skyway much more. 

Garden Rhapsody.  A nightly light show at The Super Trees Grove. The trees canopies and trunks light up in a spectrum of colors, flashing, pulsing and twinkling to the soundtrack of movie scores. It’s a truly magical experience and unlike anything we’ve experienced. 

Good to Know. There are two light shows per night. One at 7:45pm and the other at 8:45pm.

Cloud Forest.  An air conditioned conservatory housing an artificial cloud forest with tropical plants and flowers that thrive in cool and humid environments. An irrigation system releases fog and mist throughout the dome while a large waterfall spills over a towering green wall. Multilevel walkways loop around the dome’s foliage covered hill. 

Flower Dome.  A conservatory housing plants, trees, cacti, succulents and flowers from several regions of the world. Walkways lead through the indoor gardens past baobab trees from Madagascar, dragon trees from Yemen, olive trees from Italy, agave plants from Mexico, cacti from Bolivia and tulips from the Netherlands. 

Good to Know.  Gardens by the Bay are one of the few free sights in Singapore and easily one of the best. The Cloud Forest, Flower Dome, Super Tree Skyway and Observatory each cost extra. 

See the Sights 

Sri Thendayuthapani Monument.  A Hindu temple with a Gopuram, a multicolored pyramid shaped gate decorated layers of sculptures and statues 

The Raffles Hotel.  A historic luxury hotel with tropical gardens and an arcade with shops and restaurants. Visit The Long Bar for a Singapore Sling. 

Park Royal Hotel.  An iconic garden hotel with a topographical facade covered in verdant gardens, green walls and water features. 

Old Hill Police Station.  A historic building and former police station along the Singapore River. Hundreds of window shutters cover its white neo-classical facade are painted in a gradient of colors. 

Former House of Tan Teng Niah.  One of the few remaining Chinese shop houses in Little India. Every surface and ornamental element is painted in a rainbow of colors representing the diversity of the neighborhood and city. 

Merlion Park.  A park along Marina Bay with a statue of a lion head on the body of a fish. The head of the Merlion is a fountain that flows into the bay. It’s a symbol of the port city’s strength. 

Chijmes Hall.  A iconic white cathedral converted into a wedding venue and concert hall known for its candlelit concerts. The hall is surrounded by an outdoor mall with dozens of restaurants, cafes and bars with stages for live musical performances.

Fort Canning Park.  A hilltop park in the center of the city with historical significance and various walking trails. It was once the residence of Malay royalty and the city’s colonial founder. 

National Museum of Singapore.  A museum dedicated to the history of Singapore with exhibits recounting the early Malay period, British colonization, Japanese occupation, independence and modern day. Artifacts on display include several hundred year old pieces of Chinese ceramics, royal jewelry found in present day Fort Canning Park, colonial era maritime maps and portraits of British governors. The museum itself is a prime example neoclassical architecture. Most of it was under restoration when we visited.

Jewel Changi.  A contemporary conservatory and mall at Singapore’s international airport. A circular waterfall flows from the center of the donut shaped glass ceiling. At 40 meters high, it’s famed as the world’s tallest indoor waterfall. Surrounding it are terraced walkways and observatories with views of the verdant and lush interior. Palm trees, tropical ferns, birds of paradise and all types of greenery grow at every level of the indoor forest. The outer corridors are home to a range of shops and restaurants. 

Pro Tip.  Arrive at or after 10am when the waterfall begins to flow. Spend at least an hour here before departing or after arriving.

Hawker Food Halls

Hawker Food Halls are traditional Singaporean markets with food stalls selling local and regional cuisine influenced the city’s multicultural population. They’re some of the most inexpensive places to eat culturally significant meals in Singapore. 

Lau Pa Sat.  The largest and most famous Hawker Food Hall in Singapore. The historic market is housed under an octagonal wrought iron pavilion dating back to the late 1800s. Inside are nearly 100 street food vendors and restaurants selling traditional Malay, Indian, Halal, Thai, Korean, Japanese, Chinese, Turkish and Filipino cuisine. In addition to food, beverage centers sell fresh juices and local beers. We visited two stalls for an Oyster Omelette and a bowl of Seafood Laksa, two classic Singaporean staple dishes. 

Maxwell Food Center.  A Hawker Food Hall in China Town popular with locals and expats. It’s an affordable place to try traditional and regional dishes, one of the most popular being Chili Crab. The dish is made with a fresh crab cooked in and covered with a chili spiced tomato sauce. It’s an extremely delectable and messy dish. We also shared a dish of stir fried noodles, mango smoothie and watermelon juice. 

Good to Know. Bring your own napkins and remember to clean your table to avoid a fine. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Singapore has a vast range of places to eat and drink from local spots to high end restaurants and bars.

Atlas Bar.  A grand and luxurious Art Deco styled bar with elegant cocktails. The space is decorated with velvet and leather furniture, bronze and brass finishes, dimly lit chandeliers and lamps, a balcony overlook and a floor to ceiling bar. Their menu consists of martinis, gin cocktails, prohibition era drinks and vintage spirits. 

Good to Know.  Reservations are recommend however we walked in and joined a short waiting list. There is a smart casual dress code after 5pm. 

Spago.  A restaurant and bar at the top of Marina Bay Sands with sweeping views of Gardens by the Bay and the ship dotted Singapore Strait. We skipped the observatory and came here to enjoy the view while clinking glasses of champagne in a relaxed  setting. 

Good to Know. They have a $30 SGD minimum per person. Most times are “coincidentally” $1 SDG less than the minimum encouraging guests to spend more. 

The Long Bar.  A historic bar at the city’s iconic Raffles Hotel credited with inventing the Singapore Sling. To this day, they make one of the best versions of the fruity and strong cocktail. Try other drinks made with ingredients grown on Singapore’s former spice plantations while shucking peanut shells and tossing them on the floor.

Good to Know. No reservations are accepted. Show up and wait online for about 30 minutes before bringing seated.

Junior The Pocket Bar.  A hidden cocktail bar in Chinatown known for reinventing its menu and decor every several months. We visited when the bar was called Marathi. The space and cocktails reflected 1990s Mumbai. Vibrant colors, spice forward cocktails and indi-pop emulated throughout the bar. We ordered the, Fizzwala a ginger and pomegranate forward gin & tonic as well as the Amrood, a salty citrus and guava cocktail. 

LeVel33.  A brewery that holds the world record for the “highest micro brewery in a building.” While its brews are flavorful and international menu delicious, the real reason to come here is for the view. The outdoor balcony overlooks Marina Bay and some of the city’s most iconic sights.

Shahi Maharaja.  A northern Indian restaurant along the Singapore River in the Boat Quay neighborhood. We stopped in for lunch with a view, samosas and palak pannier. 

Ya Kun Kaya Toast.  A popular breakfast chain serving Kopi Coffee and the Singaporean staple dish, Kaya Toast. 

All Things Delicious.  A cafe and bakery on Arab Street with pastries made using middle eastern ingredients. We ordered a spread of caramel date, gala meleka and feta scallion flavored scones. 

Overscoop.  An ice cream shop in Chinatown with dozens of flavors. Their concept is to add small “overscoop” of any flavor on top of what you order. We ordered a combination of black sesame, ube, taro coconut and green tea flavors. 

iJooz.  A popular vending machine serving glasses of freshly squeezed orange juice from its cache of oranges. There are locations on streets across the city. 

Singaporean Cuisine 

Singaporean cuisine is a blend of Indonesian, Malay, Chinese and Indian flavors. Some of the most iconic dishes to try are: 

Chili Crab.  The national dish of Singapore and a must have when visiting the country. The dish is made with a fresh crab cooked in and covered with a chili spiced tomato sauce. 

Oyster Omelette.  An egg omelette cooked with a starchy batter, oysters and fish sauce. It’s sautéed until crispy and broken into smaller pieces. 

Seafood Laksa.  A spicy and flavorful Singaporean noodle soup made with a mixture of seafood like shrimp, clams, oyster and fish. 

Kaya Toast.  A sandwich made from crustless and toasted white bread with slices of butter and Kaya Jam, a coconut and pandan spread. It’s often served with soft boiled eggs and kopi coffee.

Kopi Coffee.  A traditional Singaporean coffee made using robusta beans brewed in a cloth percolator and poured from a long spouted pot. 

Gula Melaka. A sugar made from the sap of coconut palms. It’s a common flavoring in pastries and desserts with a sweet and caramely flavor. 

Singapore Sling. A gin based cocktail with fruity and tropical flavors including pineapple and cherry. 

Where to Stay

The Heritage Collection.  A local hotel chain that specializes in converting shop houses across the city into short term rentals. We stayed at their location on Arab Street. Book on Airbnb. 

Location Specifics

Cash vs Card.  Cash is not needed. Credit cards are accepted everywhere. 

Local Laws.  Be aware of local laws before traveling to Singapore. The country has strict punishments for what it sees as disrupting public order. Some examples relate to cursing, chewing gum, singing, public displays of affection, smoking and drinking. 

Singapore is Expensive! Singapore is an extremely expensive destination. We limited our time here to only a few days and braced ourselves for the sticker shock before arriving. Some tips for traveling here on a budget:

• Eat at hawker food halls for authentic and inexpensive meals. 

• Seek out happy hours for drinks or avoid purchasing alcoholic beverages. 

• Sightsee on foot without booking tours. 

• The light shows at Marina Bay Sands and the Super Tree Grove in Gardens by the Bay are free!

For Next Time…

We loved our short but packed time in Singapore. We can’t wait to return for another long weekend or even more extended stay. 

Stay in China Town.  We only felt a taste of the energy and atmosphere of China Town. Next time we visit Singapore, we plan to stay here, likely in Heritage Collection Chinatown.

Visit the Nature Parks.  Outside of the modern city are multiple nature parks and reserves with unique features specific to Singapore.

• Tree Top Walk.  An adventure park with tree top suspension bridges and boardwalks leading through and over the rainforest.  

• Bukit Timah Nature Reserve.  A small nature reserve with various hiking trails and opportunities for wildlife spotting. 

• Night Safari at the Singapore Zoo. A biodiverse zoo with a nightly safari through trails to spot nocturnal animals. 

Taipei Travel Guide: Taiwanese Culture, Night Markets & Jiufen

Taipei, Taiwan’s Capital City

Taipei is a sprawling metropolis and the capital city of Taiwan. The country has a historic past rooted deeply in culture, cuisine and political rivalry. Taipei’s streets are built up with modern skyscrapers displayed with vertical signs written in Mandarin characters. The neighborhoods are home to night markets, tea houses, spice shops, dumpling restaurants and spiritual temples. The silhouettes of mountainous surround the city as highland towns and nature trails speckle their slopes. We spent a week here meeting up with two couples who showed us around the city they frequently visit and call home.

Neighborhoods & Streets

Dihua Street.  A historic street in the Datong District, one of the oldest areas of Taipei. The street is lined with traditional red brick and stone buildings. Within the buildings are street are bakeries, tea houses, pottery studios, book stores, cafes and various provisions shops selling dried goods. Merchants sell fermented soy sauces, candied goods, nuts, paper lanterns, spices, woven baskets and bags. 

Bopiliao Historic District.  A historic district with traditional merchant houses. The old brick buildings have wooden facades and inset arched walkways decorated in red paper lanterns. Many of the houses have been restored and converted into museums and cultural studios. 

Ximending. The “Gayborhood” of Taipei. It’s centered around a historic brick theater with numerous gay bars, drag shows and happy hour specials. It’s a vibrant and fun spot to visit any night of the week. We met up with friends at Cafe Dalida for cocktails and light bites. 

See the Temples & Sights  

Lungshan Temple.  A historic temple  with highly stylized halls dedicated to three eastern religions of Buddhism, Confucianism and Taoism. The temple is decorated with elaborate dragon statues and large paper lanterns. Ornately carved stone columns line the halls while detailed painted doors and beams recount legends and stories. The front courtyard is flanked by water features, a koi pond with a variety of the beautiful fish and a waterfall. Locals can be seen here praying and ask the gods questions using red wood blocks shaped like orange slices.

Taipei Confucius Temple.  A temple dedicated to the Confucius. The central meditation hall is surrounded by corridors with tablets honoring past Confucius scholars. It has multi colored painted details and ornaments.

Dalongdong Baoan Temple.  A spiritual temple dedicated to Taiwanese and Chinese folklore. Like the other temples, it’s equally as stylized but with many more painting and depictions of legends and stories. It’s considered one to the most important temples in the city and to Taiwanese people. 

Taipei 101.  The tallest building in Taipei and the former tallest building in the world. It’s a symbol of Taiwan with its iconic bamboo and pagoda shaped structure. The design is reminiscent of growth, strength and connection to the sky. High speed elevators rise to the tower’s observation decks. Floor 89 hosts the lower observation deck with indoor views of the surrounding city and mountains. At the center of the floor is the 660 ton mass damper designed to counter the building’s movement in high winds, typhoons and earthquakes. Floor 101, the top floor of the building and upper observation deck offers sweeping views of the metropolis from 508 meters in the sky. 

Xiangshan Trail (Elephant Trail).  A stepped nature trail leading into the “Four Beasts Mountain” with panoramic views of Taipei 101 and the city. The viewpoint is a quick hike from the trail head and best during the morning light before 11am. The trail continues further into the mountain in several directions. 

Liberty Square.  A grand plaza dedicated to Taiwan’s democracy and founding with monuments, gardens, the national concert hall and national theater.

• Liberty Square Arch.  A massive white gate at the entrance of the square with five arches and stepped blue tiled roofs. 

• National Concert Hall & National Theater.  Two larger than life pagoda style buildings housing performance halls and theaters. The twin buildings mirror each other on opposite sides of the square. They’re defined by their stone base, red columns, elegantly painted beams and orange tiled roofs. We visited the recital hall for a friend’s classical concert and bubble tea in the base of the recital hall. 

• Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall.  A monument and museum dedicated to the first president of Taiwan. Inside the 8 sided pagoda is a seated bronze statue of the leader and galleries recounting the countries storied history and road to becoming a democracy. 

The Grand Hotel.  A historic hotel designed like a large red pagoda. The building sits on a hill at the edge of the city with view’s of its skyline. Its spacious lobby is lined with red columns and carpets, decorated in finely painted beams and large Chinese lanterns. Friends took us here to dine with a view of the city and for cocktails in a bar themed like the hotel’s escape tunnel. 

The National Palace Museum.  A museum with thousands of artifacts from Chinese dynasties dating back 5,500 years. Galleries feature jade objects, jewelry and weapons, bronze pots, fine ceramics, calligraphic paintings and scrolls. Two of the most beloved pieces are a Jade Cabbage and Piece of Pork. A museum restaurant with serves Taiwanese dishes. We stopped in for dim sum dumplings, buns and lotus leaf wrapped sticky rice served in bamboo steamers.  

Presidential Office.  A red brick and white stone building housing the presidential offices. Military guards patrol the grounds as palm trees sway out front. 

The Red House.  A historic theater in Ximending with a two floor market of craft vendors selling cute jewelry, accessories and clothing. The theater has a small event space and is surrounded by gay bars. 

Visit the Night Markets

Raohe Street Night Market.  One of the largest night markets in Taipei specializing in Taiwanese and Chinese street food. Dozens of vendors cook grilled, fried, griddled and to go meals, fresh juices and candied fruits. Many of the buildings lining the street are lined with all types of claw machine filled plush toys and small trinkets. 

Huaxi Street Night Market.  A lively covered market street decorated with colorful paper lanterns and bright signs. Its lined with restaurants and street food kitchens serving Taiwanese and Chinese cuisine. Bustling with locals and tourists, the air is filled with the aromas of savory, sweet, and famously “stinky” dishes as visitors hop between stalls sampling street food.

Day Trip to Jiufen 

Jiufen is a historic mountain town north of Taipei famed for its alleyways decorated with red paper lanterns, Taiwanese street food and overlooks with sunset views. 

Jiufen Old Street.  The old street is the glowing heart of the town. Its narrow and winding walkways are decorated in red paper lanterns that warmly illuminate the walkway and businesses below. Sweets shops, street food vendors and souvenir stores occupy small store fronts as a steady flow of visitors pass by. The smell of grilled meats, steamed buns and brewed teas invites people in while the wafting smell of stinky tofu assaults the senses. Customers walk in and out of shops selling cute figurines, nougat candies and Taiwanese teas. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Amie Teahouse.  A teahouse in a historic building with communal tea rooms overlooking the mountains and boasting stunning sunset views. The photogenic building is decorated with red paper lanterns and one of Jiufen’s most beloved sights. It’s a popular spot to partake in Taiwanese tea ceremony. 

Taiwanese Tea Ceremony.  We visited Amie Teahouse for a traditional Taiwanese tea ceremony. We shared a pot of locally grown oolong tea paired with a selection of sweets. The server began by pouring hot water over the tea dishes to warm and cleanse them. He filled the tiny clay pot with tea leaves and water to wash and loosen them. The same water was used to continue cleansing the dishes. More water was used to steep our first pot for severals seconds before serving in tiny cups. A bamboo tray caught all of the spilled water. We repeated the ceremony several times after while snacking on the sweets and watching the sunset. 

A Gan Yi Taro.  A street food restaurant serving Jiufen’s prized dish, Taro Balls. The purple, yellow and beige taro balls are sweet and chewy bite size nuggets made from taro root and sweet potato. They’re served over a cup of shaved ice mixed with sweet syrup and beans. 

Golden Bar.  A cocktail bar with an indoor balcony and rooftop overlooking the mountainous slopes and coast. Many of their cocktails have a base of tea and herbal syrups.

Tips for Visiting Jiufen

Expect Crowds. Thousands of visitors descend on the town for the sunset. The streets become less crowded about 2 hours later when most tour buses leave. 

Cash vs Card.  Bring cash when visiting as many places don’t accept credit card. 

Getting Here.  Take the Taiwan Railway from Songshan Station to Ruifang. Trains leave every 30 minutes and take 30 minutes to travel between stations. From Ruifang, take an Uber or taxi to Jiufen. Fares have set rates either way. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Din Tai Fung.  A very popular Taiwanese dumpling restaurant with locations across the island. Waiters or robots deliver bamboo baskets of steamed dumplings. We ordered a variety of veggie, shrimp and soup dumplings. Arrive an hour before planning to eat and take a ticket in line. Return when the ticket suggests to be seated.

1900 Bar.  An old world European style bar with elegant gin cocktails, absinthe drips and a selection of cognacs. The bar is located on the second floor of a corner building on Dihua Street.

Du Hsiao Yueh.  A traditional Taiwanese restaurant on Dihua Street operated by the same family since 1895. The menu features a blend of Taiwanese, Chinese and Japanese small plates ment for sharing. We ordered the…

Chin Shui Tang.  One of Taiwan’s original bubble tea cafes. Their traditional bubble tea is served in an ice cream float glass with small boba pearls and an iced milky tea. They have multiple locations across the city. 

SanFormosan Café & Roastory Dihua Shop.  A higher end coffee shop on Dihua Street with house roasted coffee beans and a wide range of coffee beverages infused with herbal and floral syrups. 

Milksha.  A Taiwanese tea chain with locations across the city. Come here for bubble milk teas or fruity teas.

Meiweizaodian Station.  A true mom and pop breakfast restaurant operated by our friend’s family. We came here for a traditional Taiwanese brunch with plates of scallion pancakes, danbing and black pepper noodles. 

Smith & Wollensky.  A “sky bar” with views to Taipei 101 and the city. Come fore their happy hour between 5-7pm. Try the Tea No.12 or Garden 47 for a contemporary cocktail made with tropical flavors. 

Taiwanese Cuisine 

Taiwan is a culinary treat for East Asian and flavors and cuisine. We cooked several dishes in our Airbnb and tasted others while dining out. 

Scallion Pancakes.  Flaky pancakes layered with fresh scallions and pan fired. It’s often served with soy sauce and chili oil as an appetizer or snack. 

Bubble Tea.  A famed and beloved Taiwanese beverage traditionally made with black tea, milk, sweetener, ice and tapioca pearls (aka boba). Its sipped through a thick straw to suck up the chewy boba. 

Congee.  A rice porridge dish flavored with savory sauces and garnishing like chili oil, soy sauce and scallions. It’s popular for breakfast. 

Pineapple Cake.  A cookie like pastry filled with pineapple jam. It’s a popular treat across Taiwan and a common celebratory dessert. 

Danbing.  A typical Taiwanese breakfast dish known as rolled egg crepes. They’re made from a gelatinous batter and topped with eggs, cheese and scallion then rolled and cut into pieces.

Dou Jiang.  Heated soy milk curdled with vinegar and seasoned with soy sauce. Pieces of deep fried donuts are soaked in the mixture creating  a soggy like soup. It’s a popular Taiwanese breakfast dish.  

San Ming Zhi.  A Taiwanese sandwich made with toasted and crustless white bread. It’s common for breakfast and on the go. We ordered one with egg, cheese and sweet pickled cucumber. 

Stinky Tofu.  A pungent tasting and smelling fermented tofu dish. It’s polarizing between those that despise it and others that deeply enjoy it. It can be served fried or boiled.

Polo Bun.  A craggily and buttery bun often stuffed with butter, ice cream or pineapple paste.

Location Specifics

Language.  Chinese or Mandarin is the most widely spoken and written language in Taiwan. Public signage is often written in English as subtext. Knowing a few basic phrases and words and having an offline translator is helpful. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit card is widely accepted across Taipei however having some cash on hand is helpful for smaller establishments, minor expenses and places outside of the capital city. 

Getting Around 

MRT.  The easiest way to get around Taipei is by subway. The system has train lines crisscrossing the city and connecting to the airports. It’s a clean, efficient and safe way to travel. Tokens can be bought per ride to specific stations using kiosks or with a transit card. Kiosks are in several languages including English. 

Taxis & Uber.  Taxis and Ubers are readily available across the city. They use meters and have set fares. They’re great for reaching areas the subway may not. 

For Next Time…

We stuck primarily around Taipei during our time here. Next time we visit the Taiwan, we hope to venture out to some of the island’s natural sights and national parks.

• Kenting National Park.  A national park at the southern tip of the island with golden sand beaches, coastal hiking trails, beach caves and marine life. 

• Dashibishan Trail.  A 1km long boardwalk trail on the eastern side of the island with cliffside and ocean views. 

• Taroko National Park.  A rugged park centered around a steep gorge with foot bridges, waterfalls and mountain shrines. 

• Fulong Beach.  A lengthy golden sand beach on the north east side of the island with monstrous sand castle contests. 

• Lisong Hot Springs.  A mineral hot spring with thermal rivers and hiking trails in the interior of the island 

Krabi Travel Guide: Railay Beach, Limestone Cliffs & Tropical Adventure

Krabi, Thailand

Krabi is a tropical paradise where adventure and relaxation merge. Between the white sand beaches and verdant palm groves are stunning natural nights. Mountainous trails lead through the jungle to panoramic viewpoints, natural hot springs, blue lagoons and dark caves. The sounds of singing birds and humming cicadas echo across the rainforest. Kayakers paddle by as long tail boats speed across the sea past towering islands and sheer cliffs. Street vendors sell fresh fruits, tropical cocktails and Thai cuisine. The evenings glow with the warmth of the sunset nightly fire dance performances. We spent a week here in the town of Ao Nang with day trips to Railay Beach and several natural sights. 

Ao Nang

An Nang is a lively beach town in Krabi near many of the peninsula’s best beaches and natural sights. The town’s waterfront boulevard and palm lined streets are home to restaurants, bars, boutique hotels, beachwear shops, spas, daily night markets, tattoo studios, smoke shops and Muay Thai gyms.

Things to Do 

Relax at Ao Nang Beach.  A shallow golden sand beach with a palm lined promenade at the center of Ao Nang. It’s a hub for leisurely and relaxing activities like sunbathing, getting a massage, reading books under the shade, sipping on cocktails and watching the sunset. The water swimmable and warm with vendors offering kayak and stand up paddle rentals. Long boat taxis and tour operators leave from here to reach nearby beaches and nature reserves across the peninsula. The north side of the beach is the most commercial while the south side has several small resorts and higher end restaurants. 

Hike The Monkey Trail.  A precarious wooden stepped trail leading through the jungleous hillside between Ao Nang and Pai Plong Beaches. Monkeys are known to lurk along the trail, grabbing people’s water bottles, food, phones and loose belongings. We saw several of them near at the Ao Nang side of the trail but avoided any close encounters. 

Relax at Pai Plong Beach.  A public beach at the one end of the Monkey Trail. The beach is maintained by a resort that offers day passes to non guests with access to lounges, pools, kayaks, restaurants and bars. The beach itself is free to use. 

Ride in a Long Tail Boat.  Thailand’s iconic long tail boats are the best way to DIY an island hopping experience and get between the beaches of Krabi and the islands in the Andaman Sea. In Ao Nang, the boats depart from Ao Nang Longtail Boat Service Club at Ao Nang Beach and the Nopparat Thara Pier. Tickets can be purchased from adjacent ticket offices starting at 100 Bhat one way, cash only. Public signs regulate rates and hours of operation. Long tail boats are painted wooden boats with a long pole and propeller extending from their engine. The design allows the boats to navigate in shallow waters without damaging coral reefs. 

Eat at the Ao Nang Night Market.  A sprawling night market with hundreds of food stalls and vendors selling Thai cuisine including noodles and rice dishes, spring rolls, curries, fresh seafood, mango sticky rice and rolled ice cream. A large dining area and beer garden is centered on a stage with live singers and nightly performers. It’s a very popular place to try the local cuisine and should be a stop at least one night while in Krabi.

Order To Go Cocktails.  Several walk up bars along the beachfront boulevard offer an expansive list of to go cocktails. They’re more affordable than most happy hours, usually costing 100 Bhat per drink. We ordered tropical drinks like planters punch, mai tais, zombies and rum punch while relaxing on the beach. 

Watch the Fire Dancers.  Groups of talented fire dancers put on nightly performances along Ao Nang Beach. We caught one performance on Saturday night at 9pm near the Lan Le Restaurant. The group of dancers spun flaming pinwheels, ropes and cubes, “breathed” fire and scattered glowing embers as they danced beneath. The shows are free but tipping is encouraged at the end.  

Dine at The Last Fisherman.  A beachfront restaurant at Ao Nang Beach serving Thai food and international cuisine. Dining tables are arranged across the sandy patio under the shade of beach trees with hanging basket lanterns. We came here for lunch, enjoying fish burgers while overlooking the sea and sheer rock cliffs of the nearby mountain.

Railay Beach

Railay Beach is a peninsula famed for its world renowned beaches, breathtaking natural sights and outdoor activities. Karst mountains with climbable rock cliffs, steep hiking trails and cavernous caves provide daring and adventurous opportunities to explore. Tropical forest, coconut groves and coastal mangroves bathe the peninsula in a sea of green. Picturesque white sand beaches with turquoise hued waters are perfect for sunbathing, swimming, snorkeling and kayaking. The peninsula itself is semi-secluded, only reachable by boat from neighboring beaches. At its center is a sleepy and tranquil town with a youthful vibe. It contrasts the club and party scene found elsewhere in southern Thailand. 

Railay Beach West.  A crescent shaped white sand beach flanked by towering limestone mountains. Beachfront restaurants, boutique hotels and bars line its shore. Swimmers and kayakers enjoy the beach’s calm turquoise waters. Colorful long boats ferry passengers in and out of the peninsula from here. 

Railay Beach East.  A shoreline and cove on the eastern side of the peninsula near many of the area’s hotels. Guests often arrive and depart from here by boat. Tractors pull wagons of people and their luggage between the boats and shore. Though scenic and beautiful, there are much better beaches to swim and relax at. 

Visit Bobo Plaza.  A sand covered pedestrian street connecting Railay Beach West and East. It’s lined with hostels, thai food restaurants, climbing outfitters, massage spas, tattoo studios and smoke shops. It’s a hub for activity but still feels hidden and under developed. 

Enter Diamond Cave.  A cave named after its glittering rock formations hidden within the karst mountain. A boardwalk leads into the cave through a tall and narrow slit. Once inside, amber colored crystals and stones shimmer in the light. Towering walls and chambers are draped in layers of stalactites and ribbon-like rocks.

Walk The Stalactite Trail.  A trail leading from Railay Beach East to Pra Nang Beach. It winds beneath a cliff with dangling stalactites and small caves. 

Hike to The Railay East Viewpoint & Lagoon.  Midway along the Stalactite Trail is a steep rocky hill covered in tree roots and ropes. The rope guided route leads up the hill to a fork in trail. Left leads to the viewpoint overlooking Railay Beach East. Right leads to the hidden lagoon. 

• Railay East Viewpoint.  Once navigating the steep rope guided trail, hiking to the viewpoint is fairly easy. The small lookout boasts picturesque views of the peninsula’s lush karst mountains, dense coconut groves, the tan sand beach below and turquoise bay dotted with long tail boats. 

• Hidden Lagoon.  A difficult and rigorous trail leads down a series of cascading cliffs to reach the lagoon. It involves a heavy amount of free climbing along steep rocky cliffs with ropes guiding the way for support. The lagoon is surrounded by vertical cliffs covered in foliage. The water rises and falls with the tide. We visited at midday when the lagoon in direct sun but shallow and muddy. 

• Pro Tips. Go slow, be conscious of your footing and know your limitations. Wear sturdy closed toe shoes. Shake mud off your shoes before climbing back up the trial to avoid slipping. Wear insect repellant to minimize mosquito bites.

Relax & Adventure at Phra Nang Beach.  A gorgeous tan sand beach with aquamarine waters and adventurous activities. The beach is the perfect spot for soaking up the sun, relaxing under shaded trees, swimming in the calm waters, kayaking around offshore islands, exploring caves and learning to climb. It quickly became our favorite beach in southern Thailand! 

• Phra Nang Kayak Rentals.  Single and double kayaks are available for rent at Pra Nang Beach for 300 Bhat per hour. We padded around the bay, rocky islands and to Railay Beach West in under an hour. 

• The Grotto.  An elevated restaurant built along the base of a cliff and a small cave at Phra Nang Beach. It has a romantic and truly unique atmosphere.

• Princess Cave.  A cave at Phra Nang Beach with a Hindu altar dedicated to fertility. Hundreds of colorful and wooden phallic statuettes are piled together and placed erect in the cave.

The Bat Cave & Railay Beach West Viewpoint.  A vast cave with dark chambers and natural windows looking out towards the sea and Railay Beach West. The cave is reachable via a trail from the far end of Phra Nang Beach. Once inside, unmarked routes continue deeper into the karst mountainside. We followed footsteps, bamboo ladders and a breeze into pitch black chambers, exploring their offshoots and sculptural rock formations. Daylight crept through a point in the distance, opening up to stunning viewpoint overlooking Railay Beach West. Exploring the cave is very DIY and most people don’t enter further than the mouth. They’re sorely missing out. 

Pro Tip.  Wear sturdy shoes for hiking and bring a flash light to see in darkness. 

Brunch at D’Oasis Cafe.  A cafe at Railay Beach East specializing in fresh fruit smoothies and bowls. We ordered a mango smoothie and an açaí bowl while overlooking the beach. 

Happy Hour at Hawkeye Thai.  A tropical styled beach front restaurant and bar at Railay Beach East. We stopped in for happy hour piña coladas while waiting for our long tail boat back to Ao Nang.

Krabi’s Natural Sights 

Dragon’s Crest Nature Trail.  A lengthy nature trail leading through dense jungle to a mountaintop summit with views of Krabi. The shaded trail is nearly 4km one way with occasional lookouts over the valleys, mountains and Andaman Sea. Near the summit, a clearing called the “stone courtyard” offers sweeping views of the peninsula. From the summit, the landscape comes into full view. Towering rock mountains abruptly rise from the land and sea as farmland and palm groves cover the valleys. Along the trail, we spotted black and blue winged butterflies, monitor lizards and monkeys. The beautiful song of birds contrasts the eerie hum of cicadas, resembling the sound of violins in a horror film. 

Good to Know.  Arrive before last entry at 2pm. Bring plenty of water for the 8km round trip hike. There’s a ranger station to stock up on more water and snacks before or after the hike. Use the free hiking sticks by the trial head or for rent one at the ranger station. 

Getting Here.  We took a Grab from Ao Nang to the park entrance and back. It took about 30 minutes before being paired with a return driver. 

Khao Phra Bang Khram National Park.  A protected rainforest with a natural spring and three vibrantly hued pools fed by its flowing waters. A boardwalk leads 1km through the rainforest to reach the series of pools. Water floods across the forest floor creating layers of mineral sediment. 

• Blue Pool.  The small natural spring and source of water for the river and pools. It’s surrounded by dense tropical forest and ferns. From the boardwalk, bubbles are visible in the center of the spring. Under direct sunlight, the crystal clear water glows iridescent blue

• Emerald Pool.  A fresh water pool fed by the natural spring with an aquamarine hue. It’s the only pool that can be swam in. The cool and mineral rich water feeling refreshing under the hot sun.

• Crystal Pool.  A vibrant green pool fed by the natural hot spring. It’s home to blooms of algae, small fish and decaying trees.

Hot Stream Waterfall.  A natural hot spring with mineral rich water that flows over a small terraced waterfall with shallow pools. The pools act as hot tubs as water rushes from one to the next. The water is about 40C (104F). Even on a hot day, sitting in the water feels enjoyable. Time is limited to 20 minutes in the pools.

Pro Tip. Enter the pools barefoot. The rocks offer some traction however patches with algae are extremely slippery when wearing shoes or sandals. 

Tiger Cave Temple Mountain.  A mountain top Buddhist temple reachable after a series of 1,260 steep steps rising 309 meters vertically. The summit of the mountain has a golden statue of the Buddha, stupa and small shrine. The view from the summit overlooks fields of palm trees, a vast mountain ridge and the distant Andaman Sea. 

Getting Here. We visited the pools, hot stream waterfall and tiger cave mountain via a shared transfer with Trip Guru. They provided transportation and free time to explore all of the sights along the full day itinerary. 

Where to Stay

Mr Long Hostel & Restaurant.  An inexpensive hostel and campground located in Ao Nang. It’s very much “in the nature” as advertised with rustic cabins and tents occupying the grounds. It gives off hippie and stoner vibes with many long term bohemian guests. The restaurant offers homestyle Thai dishes including a complementary breakfast comprised of sticky rice wrapped in banana leaves, Thai fried donuts with sweetened condensed milk and fresh fruit harvested on the property. Book on Airbnb. 

Getting Around 

Phuket Ferry.  A ferry company that aggregates boat operators across Phuket, Krabi and the surrounding islands in the Andaman Sea. It’s a beautiful and affordable way to sightsee while getting around. We booked one way tickets from Phuket to Ao Nang in Krabi with Ao Nang Travel and Tour Co. The trip took under 2 hours including a transfer from the pier to our accommodation. 

Tuk Tuks.  Thailand’s three wheeled carts are available around Krabi’s towns. They’re great for traveling short distances, often costing 50-100 Bhat per person. 

Grab.  Southeast Asia’s popular taxi app is available in Krabi. It’s useful for traveling longer distances to natural sights and the airport. Wait times can be long and prices are more expensive than tuk tuks. 

On Foot.  Ao Nang is easily walkable, especially along the waterfront boulevard. 

Krabi vs Phuket

We spent about a week in each Krabi and Phuket. We enjoyed our time in both destinations but can say without hesitation that we love Krabi more! 

Krabi, though still touristy, feels significantly more local than Phuket. It’s lesser developed in parts, has a more authentic atmosphere and slower pace. It’s close to untouched natural wonders including islands dotting the Andaman Sea. 

Phuket has several developed beach towns but lacks local culture due to the vast number of expats and its clubby environment. There is less access to nearby nature however many tours to islands in the Andaman Sea frequently leave from here. 

Elsewhere in Thailand 

From Krabi's limestone cliffs and tropical beaches to Phuket's island adventures, Chiang Mai's historic streets and Bangkok's vibrant culture, discover more of Thailand through these travel guides:

Bangkok Travel Guide: Temples, Street Food & Thai Culture.  Experience Thailand's vibrant capital through ornate temples, bustling markets, world famous street food and the energy of modern Thai life. 

Chiang Mai Travel Guide: Old City, Temples & Night Markets.  Explore northern Thailand through ancient temples, the historic Old City, lively night markets and rich cultural traditions.

Phuket Travel Guide: Beaches, Island Hopping & Thai Culture.  Discover Thailand's largest island through white sand beaches, island hopping adventures, turquoise waters and coastal Thai culture.

For Next Time… 

We absolutely loved our time in Krabi and hope this sliver of paradise never changes. When we return, we plan to Stay in Railay Beach instead of taking day trips from Ao Nang. Some sights and activities we’re keeping top 

Rock Climbing at Phra Nang Beach.  We missed our opportunity to rock climb and repel in Railay Beach. Several outfitters offered beginner courses on some of the peninsula’s sheer cliffs, specifically at Phra Nang Beach.

Island Tours.  Longboats from the piers and beaches offer day trips to several islands in the Andaman Sea. 

• 4 Islands Boat Day Trip:  A long boat tour to the islands of Poda, Tup, Chicken & West Railay. 

• 3 Islands Snorkeling Day Trip:  A long boat tour to the islands and reefs of Mae Urai, Yawabon & Yawasam

Phuket Travel Guide: Beaches, Island Hopping & Thai Culture

Phuket, Thailand

Phuket is an island in southern Thailand known for its breathtaking landscapes, tropical beaches and vibrant towns. Long sandy beaches line the aquamarine shores of Phuket’s coast. Bays famed for their iconic stone islands are teaming with underwater reserves and marine life. Old town streets are lined with bright and colorfully painted buildings. Popular beach towns welcome travelers from across the world while floating villages offer a glimpse into the local culture.

Beaches & Beach Towns

Kata Beach.  A small but popular golden sand beach with thousands of lounge rentals, street food stands, boat tour companies and surf board rentals. 

Patong Beach.  A large crescent shaped beach with a white sandy shore and aquamarine hued water. Vendors rent sun lounges & umbrellas and sell street food & local beers. Party goers dance at beach clubs while others parasail overhead. We laid out under the palms and rented lounges for the afternoon, swam in the playful waves and walked the length of the beach. The north side is quieter and cleaner than the south side. 

Karon Beach.  A beach town with a lengthy yellow sand and palm lined beach with swimmable turquoise water. It’s significantly less busy than Patong Beach and was our favorite of those we visited in Phuket. We spent an afternoon living our best tropical lives under an umbrella with drinks in hand. Between the shore and promenade are beach shacks with fresh juices, smoothies and cocktails. Vendors rent affordable lounges and umbrellas, also offering parasailing and jet skis tours.

Beach Prices.  Two lounges and an umbrella cost 200 Bhat for the day. Beers cost 60 Bhat per bottle. Street foot ranges from 40 to 80 Bhat per dish. 

Things to Do 

Hike to the Big Buddha Lookout.  A hiking trail up the hillside near Karon Beach to the Big Buddha Lookout with sunset views of the island and ocean. The trail is steep with loose gravel and trenches formed by heavy rain. Rope rails are installed throughout to make the hike easier. The trail lets out at road that continues uphill towards the Big Buddha. It passes a few roadside cafes and small lookouts. The trail takes less than 30 minutes to hike. Wear sturdy shoes and insect repellant. 

Finding The Trail Head.  On Google Maps, look for the pin Trail to Big Buddha or Kata Karon Hiking Trail. 

Walk to the Monkey Hill Viewpoint.  Monkey Hill is exactly as its name implies, a hill with a view and a lot of monkeys. A steep roadway leads to lookout over the city of Phuket and the bay. On the way up, large groups of monkeys gather along the edge of the road, waiting to be fed by park staff or prey on unsuspecting visitors. It takes about an hour to walk. Many locals come here to exercise and jog. 

Warning! Beware of the monkeys! They can be aggressive, even if unprovoked. Do not carry in any food or plastic nor wear any loose fitting clothing or accessories. Carry a stick or long umbrella for protection. You won’t need to use it but it warns the monkeys to think twice before jumping on you.

Visit the Phuket Old Town.  A historic neighborhood of Phuket with vibrantly painted two floor buildings influenced by early European and Chinese immigrants. The architecture combines both western and eastern styles. The ground floor features dark wooden Chinese style doors, windows shaped like lotus flowers and gold painted ornamentation. The second floor features tall arched windows with slatted shutters and baroque style stucco designs. Many dessert cafes, international restaurants and shops selling Thai made goods occupy their ground floors. 

Tour the Chalong Bay Distillery.  An island distillery with rums, gins and vodkas made from sugar cane and rice. We toured the distillery, learned about their process of creating spirits. The tour included a welcome drink and a tasting of 6 rums, 2 gins and 1 vodka. The rums are infused with local herbs like lemongrass, kaffir lime, Thai sweet basil and spices. Their bar mixed cocktails with other local flavors like butterfly pea flower, Thai chili peppers, mango, passion fruit and pineapple. Try the passion fruit mojito, butterfly kiss and devil’s gold. Make a reservation or just show up.

Songkran Festival

Songkran is celebration for Thai New Year held every April. It’s notorious for its energetic country wide water flights. Across the streets of Phuket, people drench each other with water. Strangers shoot water guns in passings on foot and from scooters. Shop keepers pour bowls of ice water on passersby. Groups riding in the backs of trucks and tuk tuks splash water on anyone in sight. People gently smear wet clay on other’s faces as a way of offering a blessing. Wear a swimsuit, embrace the chaos and prepare to get soaked! It feels refreshing under the hot summer sun. 

Why Water?  The significance of the festival started as a way to cleanse oneself at the end of the year and before entering the new one. It’s since evolved into one of the country’s largest and happiest celebrations. The date changes every year as Thailand follows the Lunar Calendar.

Where to Participate.  Celebrations happen all over the island, even on the most unassuming streets. Patong Beach is one of the liveliest areas on the island. The most energetic place is along Thawi Wong Road, Rat Uthit Song Pi Road and any streets in-between, especially the Bangla Walking Street.

Prices.  Water guns are available at stores and from street vendors across the city. Prices range by size: 100 Bhat for small, 200 Bhat for medium and 400 Bhat for large. Phone bags are sold for around 50 Bhat. Water refills cost 10-20 Bhat per person. 

Phi Phi Islands

The Phi Phi Islands are a cluster of islands famed for their verdant and towering rock formations, hidden coves, white sand beaches, aquamarine hued waters, troops of wild monkeys and marine life. 

The Sunrise.  We joined a sunrise tour, visiting three islands during the course of the day. From our boat, we stopped to watch the sunrise above the watery horizon and distant islands in the Andaman Sea. We even spotted a small pod of dolphins swimming 100 meters from the boat. 

Ko Phi Phi Le Island.  A lush and rugged island with picturesque bays, a white sand beach, protected marine reserve and cavernous cave. 

• Maya Bay.  A photogenic bay nestled between the island’s lush cliffs with a large white sand beach and protected marine reserve. We spent an hour here admiring the landscape and enjoying a picnic breakfast comprised of fresh fruits, banana bread and coconut sticky rice wrapped in banana leaves. It’s forbidden to enter the water due to a coral re-growth program happening in the bay. We spotted black tipped reef sharks from shore. 

• Viking Cave.  A cliffside cave home to nesting sea swallows. It’s inaccessible to visitors but viewable from the water in passing. 

• Ao Pi Le Bay.  A hidden bay only accessible during high tide. We came here to swim in its iridescent blue waters as the tide was coming in. 

Ko Phi Phi Don Island.  The largest of the Phi Phi Islands. It’s home to hotels and resorts, white sand beaches, snorkeling coves, turquoise bays and dense tropical forest. 

• Monkey Bay.  A remote corner of the island with troops of wild monkeys. We spotted some climbing on the rocks and tree branches from afar. The monkeys are known to be aggressive so we were advised to keep distance. 

• Ao Lo Dalam Bay.  A large bay on the west side of the island with multiple beaches and snorkeling spots. We snorkeled off shore from Monkey Beach, another location home to wild monkeys. We spotted tropical fish including parrot fish, angelfish, triggerfish and snapper. Sadly most of the corals were bleached. 

• Lo Lana Bay.  A bay on the north side of the island with turquoise waters and snorkeling. Under the surface, we saw iridescent blue clams, tropical fish and mostly dead corals. 

Ko Rang Yai Island.  A small island east of Phuket with a pristine white sand beach overlooking the bight blue waters of the Andaman Sea. We swam and walked along its shores, ordered fresh coconuts from the beach bar and sunbathed under the Thai sun. 

Pro Tip.  Book the sunrise tour! It’s the best way to avoid peak crowds when visiting the Phi Phi Islands. We booked our tour with Simba Sea Trips on Viator. The tour included pick up, drop off, snorkel equipment, breakfast and a Thai buffet lunch. 

Good to Know.  Wear reef safe sunblock! The remaining corals and coral nurseries are under enough stress from above average temperatures. 

Ao Phang Nga National Park

Ao Phang Nga National Park is a protected bay engulfed by breathtaking scenery and hundreds of picturesque islands jutting from the water. The lush islands are home dense mangrove forests, towering rock formations, sheer cliffs, hidden coves, glittering caves, bioluminescent sea life and floating fishing villages. 

Pha Nak Island.  An island with glittering natural wonders including cave formations and bioluminescent marine life. 

• Ice Cream Cave.  A cave tunneling through the limestone island with crystalline rocks, stone columns, dripping stalactites and nubby stalagmites. The cave is named after rock formations that resemble melting ice cream. It leads to a hidden lagoon with milky blue water. 

• Bioluminescent Cove.  A small cove home to bioluminescent algae and comb jellyfish only visible at night. Waves lap onshore creating a glittering array of bright blue and white sparkles throughout the water. It was a truly magical experience! 

Kong Island.  A verdant island with narrow channels and caves leading to hidden lagoons, tree covered chambers and towering rock structures. Guides kayaked us through its passageways, many were only accessible during low tide or so tight that we needed to lay flat to pass through. 

Khao Phing Kan Island (James Bond Island).  An island made famous by the 1974 James Bond film, The Man with the Golden Gun. It features a standalone rock tower rising from the bay, surrounded by islands. The iconic view is visible from a small beach and multiple overlooks. A short trail leads around the island with access to a cliffside cave and a sheer crevice.  

Ko Panyi Island.  A towering island at the top of the bay with a floating stilt village home to a small fishing community. It’s famed for its floating football pitch and mosque topped with golden onion domes. We walked through the village past rustic and colorful homes, saw people weaving fishing traps and watched as long boats returned with freshly caught fish. We enjoyed a Thai buffet dinner overlooking the natural scenery of the bay from Maria Sea View Restaurant. 

Getting Here. The best way to visit Ao Phang Nga National Park is by boat tour. We booked an afternoon tour, well after most other groups had returned for the day. We had the experience of seeing most sights with few other visitors outside of those on our tour. We booked with Discova Thailand on Viator and highly recommended them.

Shop the Markets 

Banzaan Fresh Market.  A large farmer’s market in Patong with aisles of vendors selling locally grown vegetables, fruits and herbs. It’s popular among locals for its large seafood section with freshly caught shellfish like shrimp, prawn and lobster. We shopped here buying all the groceries we needed for the week.

Mae Somchit Kata Fresh Market.  A local farmers market under an open air pavilion with vendors selling fresh vegetables, fruits, seafood, flowers and spices.

Kata Walking Street Market.  A large street food market near the north side of Kata Beach with alleyways and a shed of vendors serving all types of Thai dishes. It’s a popular spot to try freshly caught and affordable seafood like grilled whole fish, squid and lobster. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Coffee Bar Let’s Roll.  A breakfast and brunch spot in Kata with a range of egg dishes, smoothie bowls, baked goods and coffees. 

Griffin House Bar.  A small street side bar in Kata with well made and affordable cocktails. We stopped in for tropical Mai Tais. 

Pots, Pints & Tikis.  A restaurant and bar just steps from the north end of Patong Beach. Their menu includes classic Thai dishes, brick oven pizzas, pastas and burgers. Bartenders mix tropical cocktails and tiki drinks in addition to serving Thai beers. It’s the perfect spot for a mid-afternoon bite or post sunset drink. Come for the buy one get one free happy hour from 5-7pm.

Taodaeng.  A beautiful dessert cafe in Phuket’s Old Town with pastries, tarts and cold caffeinated beverages. We stopped in to escape the heat and sip on Thai Iced Tea with Boba as well as try two tarts decorated in local fruits and edible flowers. 

Ubuntu Vegan Cafe.  A vegan restaurant in Phuket with Mediterranean, Indian and Thai dishes as well a fresh fruit smoothie bowls. 

Thai Cuisine 

Pad Thai.  A world renowned rice noodle dish famed for its tangy and sweet sauce paired with peanuts, scallion, bean sprouts and chili pepper. 

Thai Curry.  Red, green and yellow curries made with a range of hot and savory spices, coconut milk and rice noodles. 

Tom Yum Goong.  A flavorful spicy and sour Thai soup made with lime juice, lemon grass, galangal root, kaffir lime leaves and evaporated milk. It’s often paired with shrimp or prawn. 

Spring Rolls.  Crispy and flaky rolled or deep fried dough filled with veggies and herbs typically served with a sweet and spicy sauce. 

Pineapple Fried Rice.  Stir-fried rice cooked with diced pineapple, umami forward sauces and choice of protein like tofu, chicken or pork.   

Mango Sticky Rice.  A simple and delicious staple of Thai cuisine made from sticky rice paired with freshly sliced mango. The rice is often flavored with sweetened condensed milk or a herbal syrup. 

Thai Iced Tea.  A classic Thai beverage made from brewed black tea and mixed with milk and sugar. It’s often flavored with star anise and cardamom. Try it with boba pearl. 

Thai Rolled Ice Cream.  Cream poured over a chilled surface and aggressively mixed together with toppings, thinly spread and scraped up into small rolls of ice cream. it’s a staple of every street food market with at least one stand offering the cold and flavorful dessert.

Chang Beer.  A national beer, popular across the country. It’s recognizable by two elephants on its label.

Where to Stay

Moonlight House.  A boutique hotel in a teak wooden house on the hill above Patong Beach. We stayed in a private room on the second floor with a balcony and sunset views. It’s was the perfect oasis close to nature and the energy of Patong Beach. Book on Airbnb.

When to Visit 

We visited Phuket and southern Thailand in mid-April. There are some pros and cons to consider.

• Pros. The Songkran Festival (Thai New Year) happens in mid-April. It’s the shoulder season so there are less visitors. It’s peak mango harvesting season. The sweet and tasty fruit is available everywhere.

• Cons. There will be some rainy days. Plan to leave buffer room if tours need to be rescheduled or if beach days get rained out. 

Getting Around 

Phuket Smart Bus (Airport Bus).  An inexpensive public bus with stops between the airport and beach towns of Phuket making stops at Patong, Karon, Kata and Rawai Beaches. Tickets cost 100 Bhat per person. Follow the signs outside of the terminal to the pick up spot.

Grab.  A taxi hailing app similar to Uber or Lyft. Taxis were readily available on the app and cheap to travel around town but significantly more costly to get across the island. 

Good to Know.Grabs here can be very scammy! Drivers try to charge more in cash, come up with excuses why they can’t pick you up & ask you to cancel. Make them cancel, not you. Expect to be paired with 3 or more drivers.

Phuket Patong Public Bus.  A public “bus” operating a singular route between Phuket and Patong. The bus is a large covered flatbed truck with benches on either side. It costs 40 Bhat per person and is by far the cheapest way to get between both cities. The bus leaves every half an hour between 9am and 6pm. The station in Patong is not marked. It’s located on the corner of Sawatdirak Road and Thaweeong Road next to the Barracuda Beach Club. In Phuket, it’s located at the Phuket Town Bus Terminal. 

Elsewhere in Thailand 

From Phuket's beaches and island hopping routes to Bangkok's cultural landmarks, Chiang Mai's northern heritage and Krabi's dramatic coastline, continue your journey through Thailand with these travel guides: 

Bangkok Travel Guide: Temples, Street Food & Thai Culture.  Experience Thailand's vibrant capital through ornate temples, bustling markets, world famous street food and the energy of modern Thai life. 

Chiang Mai Travel Guide: Old City, Temples & Night Markets.  Explore northern Thailand through ancient temples, the historic Old City, lively night markets and rich cultural traditions.

Krabi Travel Guide: Railay Beach, Limestone Cliffs & Tropical Adventure.  Experience southern Thailand through dramatic limestone cliffs, Railay Beach, tropical islands and outdoor adventures.

For Next Time…

Mai Khao Beach Airport Viewpoint.  A beach at the end of Phuket’s airport runway. During certain times of the year, airplanes fly just several meters overhead before touching down on the runway.

Mu Ko Similan National Park & Islands.  A protected marine reserve famed for its underwater marine life and biodiversity. It’s a popular snorkeling and diving destination. 

Visit the Mangroves.  Phuket and the surrounding islands are home to a dense eco system of costal mangroves. During high tide, many of them can be toured by kayak or stand up paddle by guides that know the route.