Montgomery St. Peter Montgomery St. Peter

Bali Travel Guide: Canggu, Beaches & Island Adventures

Bali is an Indonesian Island known for its rich culture, ancient Hindu temples, volcanic landscapes, black sand beaches, surf breaks and expat communities.

Bali, Indonesia

Bali is an Indonesian Island known for its rich culture, ancient Hindu temples, volcanic landscapes, black sand beaches, surf breaks and expat communities. During our two week trip, we ventured to various areas around the island including the relaxing seaside neighborhood of Canggu, the tropical palm covered Gili Islands, the cliffside Bukit Peninsula and cultural hub of Ubud. Whether a local, expat or traveler, Bali is truly a paradise worth visiting and falling in love with.

Canggu 

Canggu is a trendy place home to many expats, digital nomads and surf enthusiasts, making it a great place to meet other travelers. Luxury villas, cute shops and vegan cafes flank the narrow streets of the rapidly developing neighborhood. It’s shoreline is hugged by black sand beaches while lush rice paddies grow alongside interior roads. Soak up tropical vibes at beach clubs, enjoy the serene atmosphere at coastal temples and dine at the neighborhoods many restaurants and bars. 

Black Sand Beaches 

Black sand beaches stretch along Canggu’s coastline. They’re home to numerous surf shacks, restaurants with chair and umbrella rental and bustling beach clubs. Friendly stray dogs roam the beach looking for food and pets. 

Batu Bolong & Canggu Beach.  Easily the most popular and beautiful beach in Canggu. There are plenty of restaurants, bars and beach clubs to find a lounge for the afternoon, meet other travelers, stay for the sunset and enjoy the overall tropical vibes. Surfers flock to the beginner and intermediate surf breaks while kiosks rent board and offer lessons. 

Echo Beach.  A black sand beach with a seaside temple and a small cliff lined with cafes, barbecue restaurants and surf rentals. It’s a very popular spot at sunset. 

Berawa Beach.  A smaller and quieter beach where a river lets out into the ocean. It’s nestled away from the larger clubs and dense line of beach shacks and surf schools. Fishermen boats dot the shore while vendors rent sun lounges and umbrellas. 

Beach Clubs & Sunsets 

Beach clubs are a very popular way to enjoy the Balinese beaches, escape the afternoon heat and party at night. They can range from small oceanfront shacks offering lounges and drinks to large open air buildings with infinity pools, live music and several bars.

Sand Bar.  A small but lively beach club at Batu Bolong Beach with colorful picnic tables and lounges, inexpensive food and ice cold Bintangs, Bali’s regional beer. It’s a great spot to enjoy the sunset and watch surfers. 

The Lawn.  A casual beachside restaurant known for its faux lawn, infinity pool and palm shaded beach lounges. They serve happy hour cocktails, sharable plates and healthy meals.

Finn’s Beachclub.  A large, high-end and popular beach club recognized by it’s giant sign and thatched building. Finn’s is home to several pools, restaurants and bars often playing live music. You pay a hefty cover get in which reserves your lounge or table and can be used towards ordering food and drinks.

Temples & Offerings 

The Balinese are very spiritual people, mostly practicing Hinduism. Their island is home to thousands of temples with small altars at the entrance to their homes and businesses. Locals leave daily offerings on sidewalks made from small leaf woven baskets containing flowers, burning incense, cookies, candies and money. Out of respect, make sure not to step on them. 

Tanah Lot Temple.  One of seven ocean temples surrounding Bali. It holds special importance to the Balinese, built to protect the island from evil sea spirts. The temple is perched on a rock formation only accessible during low tide. Non-Balinese are not allowed to enter but can view from the nearby cliffs and outcrops below. Vendors line the road leading up to the temple selling young coconuts, kleponu, offerings and souvenirs. 

Markets & Shops

Craft markets and boutique shops are common across Bali and especially in Canggu. A few we loved visiting for handmade goods and local souvenirs are: 

Love Anchor Canggu.  An expansive indoor market with booths and vendors selling locally made home goods and crafts like macrame, shell and coconut home goods, flowy dresses and sarongs, beach jewelry and all the expected souvenirs. You’ll often be offered a “special price.” Play along, haggle and never accept the first price. 

Sunday Market.  A Sunday afternoon and evening market with live music, performers and vendors selling organic produce, cooked foods and hand made goods. 

La Brisa Sunday Market.  A small but bustling Sunday market at the La Brisa restaurant. It offers a combination of goods found at the Love Anchor and Sunday Markets. 

Things to Do 

Take a Surf Lesson.  The best surf lessons can be found by walking any of Canggu’s beaches. Many instructors and surf sharks have signs offering board rentals and 2 hour lessons. It’s best to go early, just after sunrise, to avoid the large groups. 

Join a Beach Cleanup.  At times, the currents carry in tons of plastic waste floating in the ocean. Join a beach cleanup or simply do your part to pick up any plastic you see. 

Enjoy a Floating Brunch.  Making time for a floating brunch is a must do in Bali. It’s a poolside meal artfully presented in a floating basket. It typically includes fresh fruits & juices, fluffy pancakes, eggs and various Balinese bites.

Get a Massage.  Various types of massages are offered throughout Canggu and Bali in general for an affordable cost. Look for signs outside of businesses offering 60 minute or signature massage. It’s not uncommon to find one for around $10 USD. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Canggu is known for its food scene. There are endless options to try traditional Balinese food, locally grown fruits, vegan meals and Australian inspired “brekkie.”

Shady Shack.  Located across from a rice field in an outdoor patio covered in tropical trees and plants. The menu is full of all kinds of colorful and creative vegan dishes. This is the perfect spot to come for Bali bowls and to drink kombucha through a papaya stem straw.

La Brisa.  A beachside restaurant with a large open air patio that feels more like a tropical tree house. The food and drinks here are delicious and the vibe was relaxing even during the busier hours of service. Like many places in Canggu, the sunset here was spectacular. 

Monsieur Spoon.  A cafe with French style pastries, breads, egg dishes. Their spacious outdoor patio makes it the perfect place to start the day or enjoy an afternoon coffee.  

Milk & Madu.  A great restaurant at any time of day but especially at breakfast for their delicious egg dishes and flavorful coffee.

Where to Stay in Canggu 

The narrow streets and rice paddies of Canggu are flanked by multitudes of villas and vacation rentals, many of which can be booked affordably. We stayed at in a modern villa with private units and communal spaces like a lush patio and swimming pool. Book on Airbnb

Getting Around Canggu 

Scooters.  The fastest way to get around Canggu is by scooter. Multiple shops rent scooters and moto bikes by the day, week month. Prices range on average $10 per day. For safety and to avoid fines, always wear a helmet while riding any carry your ID. 

On Foot.  Canggu is walkable by those that enjoy exploring on foot. Be mindful of speeding scooters and cars. Carry a flashlight when walking at night. 

Traffic.  The narrow roads are often congested during rush hour.

Bukit Peninsula 

The Bukit Peninsula is the southern most point in Bali. It’s known for its swimmable beaches, dramatic cliffs, grilled seafood markets and high end restaurants. 

Visit the Beaches 

We visited a lot of beaches in Bali however the ones on the Bukit Peninsula were some of our favorite! 

Padang Padang Beach.  A small swimmable beach nestled in a protected cove. The beach is great for sunbathing with little shade, though there are umbrella and chair rentals available form vendors. Warungs offer an affordable snacks, meals and fresh coconuts to drink out of and eat.

Good to Know.  The beach is accessible via a set of stairs built within the crevice of the cliff above. There is a small cash only entrance fee to access the beach. Watch out for monkeys on steps and near the tree line. They’re mischievous and will try to snatch your belongings. 

Nyang Nyang Beach East.  A sandy beach with shallow waters perfect for swimming, lounging and watching paragliders take flight overhead. The most notable sight on the beach is the graffitied remains of a washed up shipwreck. The are a few small warungs along the beach and trail leading to it with an offering snacks and drinks. 

Getting Here.  The beach is accessible via a lush cliffside trail behind the Villa Plenilunino. Use this Google Map Pin to locate the trailhead. 

Nyang Nyang Beach.  A remote and lengthy golden sand beach nestled beneath a verdant cliff overlooking the Indian Ocean. It's separated into two halves by jagged rocks. 

Nyang Nyang Beach West.  This beach is perfect for near total seclusion. The sounds of large crashing waves make it a calming place to sunbathe but dangerous to swim. The sandy shoreline transitions into bedrock at the water with rock pools during low tide. The beach is relatively undeveloped through some warungs, bars and hotels have recently popped up selling beverages, snacks and offering a shaded retreat from the sun.

Getting Here.  The beach takes some effort to reach. It’s only accessible on foot or by scooter via a steep gravel roadway just beyond the Nyang Nyang Beach Parking Lot

Things to Do

Nyang Nyang Paragliding.  The southern winds hitting Nyang Nyang’s cliff make it an ideal spot for paragliding. Tandem fights soar several hundred feet above the dramatic cliffs and rugged coastline flanked by deep blue ocean. If the conditions are right, the pilot will perform some aerobatics such as spiraling and spinning the parachute. Our flight lasted 20 minutes and included a package of photos and videos. Book ahead of time with Bali Paragliding Tandem

Jimbaran Seafood.  Jimbaran Beach is home to a fishing village lined with restaurants, vendors and kiosks barbecuing all types of freshly caught and live seafood. Smoke wafts through the air from large grills while cooks fan smoldering coconut husks. We shared a platter with a whole crab, prawns, barracuda and oysters plated on a banana leaf. 

Good to Know.  The best options are located towards the south end of the beach. The seafood is cheaper, the atmosphere is more local and you can dine directly on the beach. Avoid the higher end restaurants towards the north side, they’re tourist traps.

Bali High Tea.  For an elevated experience, visit the Orchid Tea Lounge, a tea room in a modern greenhouse decorated with hundreds of blooming orchids. The tea service was especially cute with all the cakes, sandwiches and treats either wrapped in or served on banana leafs. Make a reservation ahead of time.

Getting Around Bukit 

The Bukit Peninsula is a remote area of Bali accessible by car and scooter. It’s hilly landscape and congested roads makes it difficult and time consuming to get around. 

By Taxi.  Hire a taxi driver while exploring the peninsula. They will wait for you after drops offs and be on call to pick you up. Taxis typically cost between $30-50 USD per day. Make sure to negotiate price ahead of time. 

Rent a Scooter.  Like throughout the rest of Bali, you can get around on a scooter. The only difference in the peninsula is that most places charge a small parking fee between $1-2 USD. 

Where to Stay in Bukit 

Magical Vintage Treehouse.  A rustic treehouse surrounded by a massive mango tree with branches that poke through the walls, floor boards and ceiling. There is a shared pool between the treehouse and neighboring villas as well as a restaurant and bakery serving a mix of fresh fruits, traditional Balinese and French cuisine. Book on Airbnb

The Gili Islands 

The Gili Islands, often called “The Gilis” are a series of three tiny islands off the coast of Lombok. Their sleepy atmosphere and unique vibes make them relaxing places to experience Indonesian culture and the tropical environment. We spent four days here but could have easily stayed for weeks. 

Gili Trawangan.  Also known as “Gili T,” this is the largest of the The Gilis. It’s the most popular place to stay with many boutique hotels, vacation rentals, seaside restaurants, outdoor cafes and beachfront bars. The main town spans across the eastern side of the island while lush palm groves cover its interior. Colorful boats and outriggers line white sand beaches wrapping around the island’s perimeter. 

Gili Air.  A largely developed island with numerous options for accommodations, dining, nightlife and marine activities. It’s located just across from Lombok with uninterrupted views of Mt. Rinjani. 

Gili Meno.  The smallest, quietest and most relaxing of The Gilis. It’s located in between Gili T and Gil Air. Its home to white sand beaches, turquoise waters, snorkeling points, palm groves, local warangs and rental villas. 

Gili T Beaches 

The island is essentially one giant beach paradise! Based on location, here’s our breakdown to exploring the different corners of the island.

Eastern Coast.  The most commercialized coastline on the island spanning the length of the town. Its easily accessible and lined with hundreds of sun lounges, beach umbrellas and small boats. Its white sand shore is perfect for sunbathing while its shallow turquoise waters are ideal for swimming and lounging.

Turtle Point.  Located on the northeast corner of the island, this is the best place to spot sea turtles! The shallow warm waters are home to sea grass where sea turtles feed. Rent a standup paddle or kayak and quietly wait in the water for a turtle to swim by. Arrive before 10am to avoid the large crowds and loud boats from the snorkel tours.

Northern Coast.  Most beaches here are private for guests of the nearby resorts and hotels. 

Northwestern Coast.  Beaches here attract smaller crowds than elsewhere on the island making them a peaceful place to relax. There are numerous beachfront restaurants and bars offering places to dine and drink. 

Southwestern Coast.  An area with the best views of Bali’s silhouette and Indian Ocean sunsets. Many diving tours frequent the waters on this side of the island to spot manta rays and sharks. 

Southern Coast.  A narrow stretch of shoreline covered in piles of washed up corals.

Things to Do

Snorkeling Tour.  Many restaurants, dive schools and guides along the main street on Gili T will offer inexpensive snorkel tours around The Gilis. We snorkeled around the coast of Gili Meno where we spotted an incredible array of tropical fish, jumped from the boat’s rooftop and visited The Nest, an artificial reef comprised of human figures standing in a circle. After snorkeling, we stopped at Gili Air for a beachfront lunch. 

Acrylic Kayaking.  Rent an acrylic kayak and paddle around Turtle Point to spot sea turtles feeding in the sea grass.

Pro Tip. Select the kayak with minimal scratches on the bottom. The more scratches, the less you’ll actually be able to see though it. 

Stand Up Paddle.  Rent a stand up paddle and explore the strait between Gili T and Gili M. The water is usually calm making it easy to balance. This was another fun way to spot sea turtles.

Watch the Sunset.  There are a number of beach clubs, restaurants and hotels with lounges, ocean swings and patios on the west and southwest sides of the island to watch the sunset.

Get a Bamboo Tattoo.  A bamboo tattoo is a traditional hand poked tattoo. Visit NoA The Master of the Bamboo Tattoo for some new ink. The process is sanitary and clean. We watched the artist disinfect all of his tools and present us with the an unopened package containing the needles he used for our tattoos. It’s worth it for the authentic experience!

Take a Cooking Class.  One of the best meals we had on Gili T was the one we cooked ourselves. Several beachfront restaurants in town offer 2 hour cooking classes to prepare multiple Indonesian staples including: Fried Tempe and Tofu, Mie Goreng, Pepes Ikan and Klepon.

Places to Eat & Drink

Le Pirate.  A small resort on the northwest of the island with a beachfront restaurant serving Indonesian dishes and freshly harvest coconuts. Come here for lunch while biking around the island! 

Tiki Grove.  A tiki themed restaurant located in the palm covered interior of the island. Come for the fish tacos, live music and traditional tiki drinks. 

Pink Coco.  A beach club on the southwest side of the island with pink colored decor and beanbags lining the sand. It’s a popular place to watch the sunset while sipping on a Bintang or cocktail. 

Where to Stay in Gili T

Melati Cottage.  A traditional hotel with several wooden cottages located steps from the beach. The simple cottages each have a comfy bed, outdoor shower and deck front patio. The hosts offer daily bike rentals and pick up from the ferry terminal. Book on Airbnb

Getting Around The Gilis 

Speed Boats.  Speed boats are the fastest, safest and most hassle free way to get between Bali and the Gili Islands. There are a number of companies and departure points along the East side of Bali offering transportation from anywhere on the island to The Gilis. We booked roundtrip tickets with Blue Water Express.

Island Hopping.  Public boats ferry passengers between each island’s main harbors at infrequent times from 9am and 4pm. Standard Boats takes about 30 minutes and cost around $5 one way. Fast Boats take about 15 minutes and cost around $10 one way.

Rent a Bike.  Cars are forbidden on The Gilis making bicycles the most efficient way of getting around. The largest of the islands, Gili T can be crossed in 15 minutes or circled in under an hour. Most accommodations rent bikes for around $5-10 USD per day. 

Indonesian Cuisine 

Warungs.  An Indonesian style restaurant serving a buffet of dishes and prepared plates. They’re often spotted along the roadside offering inexpensive meals and traditional Balinese cuisine. 

Bali Bowls.  Also called smoothie bowls, they’re made from mixtures of puréed frozen fruits and often decorated in fresh fruit, grains and flowers. They’re a healthy, filling and refreshing way to start the day. Almost every cafe offers their own versions.

Klepon.  A green gelatinous rice ball with melted palm sugar inside and a coconut shaved exterior. 

Nasi Goreng.  Vegetable fried rice, an Indonesian staple commonly served on menus around the country. It’s a popular breakfast dish.

Mi Goreng.  The same as nasi goreng, except made with noodles instead of rice. 

Gado Gado.  Lightly steamed or boiling vegetables served with a spicy peanut sauce. 

Batagor.  Fried banana, tempe or tofu stuffed with glass noodles and veggies. It’s a very common street food dish in East Java and eaten for breakfast or a mid day snack. 

Tempeh.  Fermented and spouted soybeans formed into a protein patty or block. A common preparation is Tempeh Lada Hitam, tempeh cooked in a black pepper sauce.

Sayur Lodeh.  A spiced coconut stew cooked with tempeh, eggplant, tomatoes and green beans. 

Bintang.  Indonesia’s national beer. It’s a light beer perfect for the perpetually hot afternoons and evenings.

Sambal.  Indonesians love spicy food. The source of the heat is often sambal, a minced mixture of Thai chili peppers, shallots and garlic.

Location Specifics 

When to Visit. Visit during the dry season, from May to October. The weather is sunny and bright most days with the occasional afternoon storm.

Plastic Pollution.  With few methods for waste management and recycling, plastic waste and trash often make their way into the waterways, littering beaches, the coast and ocean. 

Shoes Off Indoors.  Like many places in Asia, it’s proper to remove shoes before entering home or some shops. 

Use Both Hands.  When ever exchanging anything like credit cards or cash, use both hands as a sign of respect. 

Currency.  Indonesia uses the Indonesian Rupiah. The currency is quantified in the thousands. Many businesses will drop the zeros on a bill. For example, something costing 56,000 Rp may be written as 50. 

Small Bills.  Carry a lot of smaller bills (5K,10K and 20K) for donations and small fees.

Tipping.  10% Gratuities are usually included in the bill under service. Anything extra is not expected.

General Safety.  Bali is generally a safe place to travel too. The biggest dangers are traffic, natural disasters and overcrowded boats. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  While Bali is very friendly and welcoming to LGBTQ+ travelers, Indonesian laws and customs are not. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice.

Language.  Bahasa Indonesian is the official language in Bali however many people know English. It’s best to know a few local words and phrases.

  • Sukseme = Thank You

  • Sama Sama = You’re Welcome

  • Selamat Pagi = Good Morning 

  • Selamat Siang = Good Afternoon 

  • Selamat Sore = Good Evening 

Elsewhere in Indonesia 

We’ve visited to Indonesia twice during our travels, exploring different islands across the archipelago. Visit ancient temples and wander through the lush rice terraces of Ubud, BailExperience the picturesque landscapes and wildlife of The Komodo Islands. Chase waterfalls and hike into the craters of active volcanos in East Java.

For Next Time…

There are near endless things to do and see in Bali. It’s unique culture, nature and atmosphere is a place we certainly hope to experience again. When we do, these are a number of the things we’re planing to seek out.

Nusa Islands.  An archipelago of three volcanic islands in the strait between Bali and Lombok. Its famed for its manta rays, cliff diving points and Kelingking Beach, a beach on Nusa Penida with a T-rex shaped peninsula. 

The Gilis.  We could have spent weeks on The Gilis. Having throughly explore Gili T, we would return to experience Gili Air and Gili Meno. 

Uluwatu.  An area of the Bukit Peninsula cliffside beaches like Suluban and Balangan and one of Bali’s most scared sites, the Uluwatu Temple, where it’s believed that the Hindu gods, Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva become here.

West Bali Park.  A largely untouched wildlife refuge and jungle on the western side of Bali. The route leading here is dotted with coastal towns and jungleous villages. 

Ubud’s Temples.  We would spend more time exploring the ancient temples in Ubud including:  

  • Pura Ulun Danu Bratan.  A series of floating water temples on Lake Bratan assessable by canoe. 

  • Pura Taman Saraswati.  A palace water temple surrounded by a large lily ponds where the traditional Balinese Legong dance is performed. 

  • Goa Gajah.  A 9th century cave temple with extensive carvings and entrance through the overgrown mouth of a demon.

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Montgomery St. Peter Montgomery St. Peter

How to Find Cheap Flights: A Practical Flight Booking Checklist

Find cheaper flights with practical booking strategies, flexible search techniques and proven tips that help uncover better airfare deals.

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Cheap Flights Checklist

Finding cheap flights can be hit or miss but persistence and flexibility is key to finding the best fares. Follow our checklist for well learned tips and travel hacks to book the most affordable flights.

Where & How to Track Flights 

Websites to Track Flights.  We always begin tracking flights on Google Flights. The search by map and calendar features make it easy to visually choose a destination and time to go. We also like comparing across travel search engines like Sky Scanner and Hopper. Lastly, search directly on the airline’s websites. Some airlines have better routes and prices that don’t always show up on flight tracking websites.

Track Multiple Destinations.  If you’re like us and have a travel bucket list, track flights to multiple destinations around when you’re planning to travel. This also helps us learn what prices are considered low or high to various places during different times of the year. This method works for near term and distant travel dates. 

  • Tracking Ahead.  If you plan on traveling in several months from now and want to go somewhere tropical, track flights to various tropical destinations during that time and book the most affordable option. 

  • Tracking Last Minute.  The same method works for spontaneous trips. If you’re planning a getaway this weekend, track flights from your nearest airport to any destinations reachable from there. Sometimes you’ll be surprised to find a very affordable last minute flight.

Know The Best Dates & Times to Travel

Have Flexible Dates and Times.  Be flexible when searching for flights. Sometimes departing a day earlier or later can mean spending hundreds of dollars less. This is true of the time of day, especially on well traveled routes. 

Book the Red Eye Flight.  It might not be the most comfortable time of day to travel, especially if you can’t sleep on airplanes, however the prices almost always cost less in the middle of the night than during mornings or afternoons. 

Travel on Grim Dates.  Flights are almost always cheaper on days like Friday the 13th or September 11th, especially if booking months out. 

Travel During the Curb or Off Seasons.  The weather might not be “perfect” but that doesn’t mean you won’t enjoy your trip. We’ve often enjoyed smaller crowds, better service and made stronger connections with local culture and other travelers during the off season.  

Plan a Season Ahead.  Track and book flights months ahead of time, ideally the season before most travelers have even given it any thought. For example, we begin tracking spring break trips around Thanksgiving, summer travels during the holidays before the New Year and fall getaways during the late spring and early summer.

Travel Abroad on Thanksgiving.  If you’re traveling from the United States, international flights are frequently more affordable on Thanksgiving while most travelers are flying domestically. 

Don’t Wait to Book.  If you feel good about a ticket’s price, don’t wait to book it. Chances are the price won’t be available 24 hours later, especially if it seems too good to be true. Most flights, even if non-refundable, are fully refundable within 24 hours if you change your mind of fine a better flight elsewhere. Alternately, some airlines offer the option to “freeze” a price for up to 72 hours for a small fee. 

Consider Your Departure & Destination Locations 

Check Multiple Airports.  Many major hubs have multiple airports. Flights to and from the smaller or lesser desired airport may be the more affordable option. If you’re based in-between multiple regional airports, flights from one vs the other may make all the difference, even if more distant than your nearest airport.

Book One Way Flights.  If you plan it right, one way flights with separate airlines are occasionally cheaper than round trip flights with the same airline. This is especially true if traveling between multiple destinations before returning home.

Avoid Skiplagging.  Skiplagging is when you book a flight with a layover but stay in the connecting city. Travelers do this when the connecting route costs less than the direct route. While not illegal, airlines often impose hefty fees, cancel remaining legs of the journey or ban passengers from flying with them. 

Choosing An Airline 

Book the Budget Airline.  We’ve all heard of or have our own horror story from booking with a budget airline. Though there’s usually less leg room, higher baggage fees and less flexibility, most flights depart without issue. The biggest risk is an overbooked flight, a risk worth taking for booking at a significantly lesser cost. If unfamiliar with the budget airline, research recent customer experiences on review sites or Reddit.

Be Aware of Baggage Fees.  We rarely check a bag however we always verify baggage fees and restrictions. They frequently change between airlines and countries. Before booking, confirm how many bags are included, what the weight and size restrictions are, if they can be carried on or have to be checked. Fees can quickly add up if you’re not paying attention. 

Check for Stopover Programs.  Several airlines offer free stopovers, discounted stays or city tours when stopping over in their home city or country. Taking advantage of them is a great way to fit in an additional destination in route to your planned destination.  

Lottery Upgrades.  Some airlines offer a lottery to upgrade flights to a premium seat up to a week before the flight departs. Place a bid, usually a few dollars higher than the recommended bid to win a chance at upgrading for significantly less than the actual cost. 

Volunteer if Asked.  We’ve earned hundreds of dollars in flight vouchers and Visa cards on multiple occasions by volunteering to take the next flight on overbooked flight. Though not common, it can really pay off if not in a rush.

Earn Points by Traveling 

Sign Up for Frequent Flyer Programs.  Most airlines have their own frequent flyer or mileage program to earn points towards booking future flights and covering baggage fees. Several airlines are part of the same network or alliance making it easier to consolidate points if booking with different airlines. Though it can take years to accumulate a meaningful amount of points, simply signing up comes with perks. We’ve received free upgrades, been assigned better seats and received refunds or travel credits on otherwise non-refundable flights.

Use Travel Credit Cards.  Sign up for a travel credit card to earn points that cover the cost of flights and other travel related expenses. We have multiple travel credit cards but routinely use two over others. 

  • Chase Sapphire Reserve.  A premium travel credit card with steep annual fees but generous travel credits. Amongst other perks, it comes with a Priority Pass that offers access to many airport lounges. Any travel related expenses earn 3 points per dollar spent on the card. Over time, it adds up and more than pays itself off. 

  • Capital One Venture.  A travel credit card with minimal annual fees and easy ways to build a bank of points. Any travel related expenses earn 2 points per dollar spent on the card. Their daily shopping offers provide generous points multipliers on various purchases including car rentals and booking platforms like Viator, Get Your Guide, Booking and Expedia. 

Persistence & Flexibility

If you’ve read this far, you can tell there are many ways to find the most affordable flights. It’s often a combination of methods on our checklist, the most important of which is persistence and flexibility. Being persistent about finding cheap flights and willing to be flexible to book them is often what lands us the best fares. 

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Montgomery St. Peter Montgomery St. Peter

Ubud Travel Guide: Rice Terraces, Sacred Temples & Balinese Culture

Ubud is the cultural heart and adventurous hub of Bali with lush landscapes, expansive rice terraces, active volcanos, thousands of Hindu temples and ancient sites.

Ubud, The Cultural Heart of Bali

Ubud is the cultural heart and adventurous hub of Bali. The region is home to thousands of Hindu temples, ancient sites and Balinese museums where traditions, spirituality and nature merge as one. Hiking trails lead along verdant ridges and to the summits of active volcanos. Expansive rice terraces and sprawling rice paddies sculpt the landscape and serve as a base for Indonesian cuisine. Eco hotels nestled within the verdant jungle provide one of a kind accommodations. We spent several days exploring Ubud during our two week trip to Bali, experiencing the island’s remarkable culture and nature. 

Eco Tourism

People in Ubud are physically and spiritually connected to nature. They care for their environment, eat, build and farm sustainably. This couldn’t have been any truer than at the eco hotel where we stayed, New Earth Haven. For five days, we lived in an eco-dome made from bamboo, canvas and thatched palm leaves. Separately it had an outdoor shower and compositing toilet. The dome was surrounded by rice fields and elevated from the ground. During our stay, we would often wake up to the farmers harvesting rice and herding baby ducks. 

From eco-domes to tree houses and villas in the rice patties, there are plenty of unique and sustainable places to stay in Ubud. Book your stay in Moonstone Crystal Eco Dome on Airbnb.

Across the rice paddies from our dome is the Akasha Restaurant. An open air restaurant focused on sustainability and vegan cuisine with nightly events and festivals. We came here for many of our meals including smoothie bowls, jackfruit tacos and Indonesian coffee. 

Tegalalang Rice Terraces 

The Tegalalang Rice Terraces are an expansive series of hillside rice paddies that meander organically across the landscape. Trails and walkways weaves through the terraces to lookout points, zip lines and jungle swings. We spent hours exploring the terraces and hiking to its furthers corners. At the entrance is a hillside village with restaurants, warungs, cafes and hostels overlooking the terraces. Stop here for breakfast or lunch. 

Pro Tip.  Arrive at the rice terraces by 7am to explore with minimal people and before the large tour groups. 

Good to Know.  Farmers will often ask for a small donation to help support their livelihoods and maintain the walkways. Its best to donate 5k Rp each time.

Sunrise Hike to Mt. Batur 

Mt. Batur is Bali’s second highest peak and still an active volcano. One of the most adventurous things you can do on the island is hike to its summit and watch the sunrise. Wake up just after midnight and drive to the basecamp at the lakeside town of Toya Bungkah. There will be hundreds of guides available for hire. Guides generally cost around 500K - 700K Rp for two people ($35-50 USD).

The Summit.  The entire island of Bali and the nearby island of Lombok are visible from the summit on a clear morning. Hardened lava flows from past eruptions surround the volcano while steam rises from volcanic vents. Wild monkeys roam freely around the crater rim. Vendors sell hot chocolate, coffee, water and various snacks including eggs cooked in the steam vents. Try one if you can, there’s something special about food cooked by a volcano! 

Packing List:

  • Shoes.  Wear good hiking shoes for traction. The pathways are covered in loose stones gravel. 

  • Wear Layers.  It is colder the higher you hike in elevation but easy to overheat once the sunrises. 

  • Headlamps.  Wear a headlamp to see in the darkness while hiking.

  • Water.  Carry at least 1.5 liters of water for the hike. 

  • Cash.  Bring local currency to buy snacks or drinks at the summit. 

Sacred Monkey Forest

The Sacred Monkey Forest is covered in massive trees with dangling aerial roots, multiple ancient temples and acts as a sanctuary for hundreds of monkeys. The monkeys are everywhere, climbing in the trees, running across pathways, sitting on benches and making the temples their home. They are playful, mischievous and protective. If you’re not paying attention, one may try and take your phone, bag or hat.

Campuhan Ridge Walk

The Campuhan Ridge Walk is an easy, scenic and lush 2km pathway on top of the Campuhan Ridge. To avoid the sun, we walked the path about two hours before sunset ending during golden hour. Enter on the north side, where there are a number of businesses selling fruit, water, Bintangs and offering massages. End on the south side at the ancient Pura Gunung Lebah Temple.

Tirta Empul Water Temple 

The Tirta Empul Water Temple is a 15th century temple with fountains and baths fed by a natural spring. It has a special importance to the Balinese for its purifying and healing waters. The best way to properly use them is to pay a temple guide for a handmade offering and ask them to explain the ritual process and meaning behind it. It’s well worth the experience to step out of your comfort zone, experience and reflect on whatever you’re thankful for. 

Packing List:

  • A Sarong.  Like with many temples across Bali, you need a sarong to cover up with before entering. They’re also available to rent. 

  • A Towel.  To dry off with after bathing in the cleansing waters. 

  • A Lock.  To secure your belongings in the lockers.

Visit the Museums 

There are multiple museums showcasing Balinese art, artifacts and architecture throughout Ubud. The museums themselves are as much about the grounds and their temples as they are the artwork and artifacts within. 

Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA).  A grand museum with galleries of artwork and painting created by Balinese artists. The gardens and grounds line with sculptures, temples and pavilions where we watched artists painting and carving elaborate wooden reliefs and sculptures. 

Other museums include the Museum Puri Lukisan and Neka Art Museum.

Satria Agrowisata

The Satia Agrowisata is famed for its Luwak Coffee. If you’re unfamiliar, the beans go through quite the process before becoming coffee. The coffee cherries are eaten by civets, a nocturnal cat-like mammal, then partially digested and poop out. The beans are collected and roasted in small batches before being ground and turned into coffee. It’s an unappealing process but does result in a rich, mellow and flavorful brew worth trying at least once. 

Mason Elephant Park & Lodge 

Mason Elephant Park is home to a herd of rescued Sumatran elephants. We came here to meet, feed and bathe one while it snacked on bamboo. 

Elephant Feeding & Bathing.  After entering the park, we bought small baskets of produce to feed the elephants. It’s the cutest feeling as the use their trunks to take the food from your hands! After feeding, we met Risky, the elephant we scrubbed and bathed from trunk to tail. By the end of the experience, we felt like we had made a new friend but also needed a shower ourselves.

Avoid Elephant Riding.  Many other visitors came to ride an elephant, something we didn’t ethically agree with and would discourage others from doing. Otherwise, the elephants seemed to be treated humanely, well fed and given space to roam.

Buy an Elephant Painting.  Elephants are highly intelligent, creative and social animals. They can even use their trunks to paint. The park has a museum with elephant paintings on display and available for purchase. Needless to say, we now have a painting made by an adolescent elephant named Jegeg hanging in our bedroom. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Mudra Cafe.  A very cute cafe nearby the Monkey Forest offering the most stunning Bali style smoothie bowls and Indonesian coffee in tiki mugs.

Hujan Locale.  An elevated and contemporary Indonesian restaurant serving regional cuisine, flavorful dishes and artisan cocktails. We shared a couple appetizers end enjoyed the prawn and crispy whole fish as dinner mains. 

Jungle Fish.  The best way to describe this place is a beach club in the middle of the jungle. The restaurant has an infinity pool overlooking the lush rainforest and multiple levels. The pool bar offers a selection of small plates and 2 for 1 drinks. We sampled every cocktail on the menu falling in love with one wrapped in banana leaves.  

Getting Around Ubud

Many accommodations in Ubud will help arrange transportation for you, especially to and from other areas of the island. Ubud and the surrounding area is vast and hilly making scooters and taxis the easiest way to get around. We often took Bluebird Taxi, known for its metered service, flat fees and street-side taxi stands. 

Indonesian Cuisine 

Warungs.  An Indonesian style restaurant serving a buffet of dishes and prepared plates. They’re often spotted along the roadside offering inexpensive meals and traditional Balinese cuisine. 

Bali Bowls.  Also called smoothie bowls, they’re made from mixtures of puréed frozen fruits and often decorated in fresh fruit, grains and flowers. They’re a healthy, filling and refreshing way to start the day. Almost every cafe offers their own versions.

Klepon.  A green gelatinous rice ball with melted palm sugar inside and a coconut shaved exterior. 

Nasi Goreng.  Vegetable fried rice, an Indonesian staple commonly served on menus around the country. It’s a popular breakfast dish.

Mi Goreng.  The same as nasi goreng, except made with noodles instead of rice. 

Gado Gado.  Lightly steamed or boiling vegetables served with a spicy peanut sauce. 

Batagor.  Fried banana, tempe or tofu stuffed with glass noodles and veggies. It’s a very common street food dish in East Java and eaten for breakfast or a mid day snack. 

Tempeh.  Fermented and spouted soybeans formed into a protein patty or block. A common preparation is Tempeh Lada Hitam, tempeh cooked in a black pepper sauce.

Sayur Lodeh.  A spiced coconut stew cooked with tempeh, eggplant, tomatoes and green beans. 

Bintang.  Indonesia’s national beer. It’s a light beer perfect for the perpetually hot afternoons and evenings.

Sambal.  Indonesians love spicy food. The source of the heat is often sambal, a minced mixture of Thai chili peppers, shallots and garlic.

Location Specifics 

When to Visit. Visit during the dry season, from May to October. The weather is sunny and bright most days with the occasional afternoon storm.

Plastic Pollution.  With few methods for waste management and recycling, plastic waste and trash often make their way into the waterways, littering beaches, the coast and ocean. 

Shoes Off Indoors.  Like many places in Asia, it’s proper to remove shoes before entering home or some shops. 

Use Both Hands.  When ever exchanging anything like credit cards or cash, use both hands as a sign of respect. 

Currency.  Indonesia uses the Indonesian Rupiah. The currency is quantified in the thousands. Many businesses will drop the zeros on a bill. For example, something costing 56,000 Rp may be written as 50. 

Small Bills.  Carry a lot of smaller bills (5K,10K and 20K) for donations and small fees.

Tipping.  10% Gratuities are usually included in the bill under service. Anything extra is not expected.

General Safety.  Bali is generally a safe place to travel too. The biggest dangers are traffic, natural disasters and overcrowded boats. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  While Bali is very friendly and welcoming to LGBTQ+ travelers, Indonesian laws and customs are not. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice.

Language.  Bahasa Indonesian is the official language in Bali however many people know English. It’s best to know a few local words and phrases.

  • Sukseme = Thank You

  • Sama Sama = You’re Welcome

  • Selamat Pagi = Good Morning 

  • Selamat Siang = Good Afternoon 

  • Selamat Sore = Good Evening 

Elsewhere in Indonesia 

We’ve visited to Indonesia twice during our travels, exploring different islands across the archipelago. Take in the tropical atmosphere while lounging on the beaches of Bali. Experience the picturesque landscapes and wildlife of The Komodo Islands. Chase waterfalls and hike into the craters of active volcanos in East Java.

For Next Time…

There are near endless things to do and see in Bali. It’s unique culture, nature and atmosphere is a place we certainly hope to experience again. When we do, these are a number of the things we’re planing to seek out.

Nusa Islands.  An archipelago of three volcanic islands in the strait between Bali and Lombok. Its famed for its manta rays, cliff diving points and Kelingking Beach, a beach on Nusa Penida with a T-rex shaped peninsula. 

The Gilis.  We could have spent weeks on The Gilis. Having throughly explore Gili T, we would return to experience Gili Air and Gili Meno. 

Uluwatu.  An area of the Bukit Peninsula cliffside beaches like Suluban and Balangan and one of Bali’s most scared sites, the Uluwatu Temple, where it’s believed that the Hindu gods, Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva become here.

West Bali Park.  A largely untouched wildlife refuge and jungle on the western side of Bali. The route leading here is dotted with coastal towns and jungleous villages. 

Ubud’s Temples.  We would spend more time exploring the ancient temples in Ubud including:  

  • Pura Ulun Danu Bratan.  A series of floating water temples on Lake Bratan assessable by canoe. 

  • Pura Taman Saraswati.  A palace water temple surrounded by a large lily ponds where the traditional Balinese Legong dance is performed. 

  • Goa Gajah.  A 9th century cave temple with extensive carvings and entrance through the overgrown mouth of a demon.

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St. Croix, USVI Travel Guide: Beaches, Snorkeling & Historic Towns

Explore St. Croix's turquoise bays, white sand beaches and Danish colonial towns where island life and Afro-Caribbean culture thrive.

St. Croix, USVI

St. Croix is the largest of the US Virgin Islands. Its hilly and aired landscape is flanked by turquoise bays, white sand beaches and coral reefs. The former Danish colony is home to historic towns, cannon lined forts and the ruins of old sugar mills. It’s escaped the demands of mass tourism seen on neighboring islands, allowing it to maintain its local atmosphere and sleepy vibes. 

Christiansted

Christiansted is the former Danish capital and main town on St. Croix. Historic pastel painted buildings with contrasting wooden shutters line the town’s streets. Brick sidewalks covered by arched walkways lead past shops selling locally made textiles, jewelry, clothes and souvenirs. A colonial era fort overlooks the boat dotted harbor while a boardwalk meanders past restaurants, bars, dive shops and hotels. It has a small town feeling where chickens roam freely and strangers say hello. 

Christiansted Boardwalk.  A waterfront walkway that snakes along Christiansted’s harbor. It’s a busting place with a series of businesses including dive shops, hotels, restaurants and bars. Many boat tours, fishing charters, dive excursions and seaplanes leave from here. It’s especially lively on weekend evenings.

Fort Christiansvaern.  A well preserved Danish fortress with yellow painted walls, green wooden shutters, wrought iron hinges and a series of cannons pointed towards the sea. Arched passageways lead to the fort’s supportive rooms including the officer quarters, barracks, prisons, power magazine, armory, kitchen and latrine. The second floor offers views of the town and harbor. 

Old Danish Customs House.  A mustard painted colonial era building adjacent to Fort Christiansvaern built to collect taxes during Danish rule. It’s recognizable by its brick “welcoming arms” staircase and symmetrical design. 

Government House Christiansted.  A stately Dutch colonial building used by the former governors of the Danish West Indies. It’s one of three governor’s mansions used but the governor of the US Virgin Islands. 

The Steeple Building.  A 250 year old building with a wooden clock tower. It’s been used as a church, bakery, storehouse and school throughout its lifetime. 

Frederiksted

Frederiksted is a small town on the island’s western shores with Danish colonial buildings, a seaside promenade, historic fort, cruise ship pier and lengthy stretch of sandy beaches. 

Frederiksted Historic District.  A waterfront neighborhood with colorfully painted Danish colonial buildings and covered walkways that lead past dive shops, cafes, restaurants, galleries and hotels. Many of there buildings have been abandoned due to damage from past hurricanes. 

Frederiksted Promenade.  A waterfront park with palm lined walkways, grassy lawns, small monuments and seaside views. Local vendors set up tents selling crafts and offering island tours on days when a cruise ship is docked at the pier. Check the St. Croix Cruise Ship Schedule for dates. 

Fort Frederik.  A red painted fort with an oceanfront wall flanked with cannons. It’s the site of The Emancipation Revolt that led to the end of slavery in the West Indies.

Cruzan Rum Distillery

Cruzan Rum is the island’s most famous rum distillery offering tours, rum tastings and house-made cocktails. The historic property is dotted with industrial facilities, storage warehousers and colonial era buildings including the ruins of the sugar mill. The tour leads through the fermentation facility with large tanks of bubbling liquids, past the distilling tower and into aging warehouses with thousands of stacked oak barrels with aging rums. The tour ends at the bar with a tasting of 8 Cruzan Rums of and 2 cocktails. Book tours online in advance withCruzan Rum

Other St. Croix distilleries include: Mutiny Island Vodka, Prosperity Farm Distillery and Captain Morgan Rum.

Jump Up Festival 

Jump Up is a lively street festival celebrating St. Croix’s Afro Caribbean culture. Moko Jumbies walk the streets, performing and dancing to steel drum beats and live soca music. Street food vendors serve local staples like deep fried patés (empanadas), johnny cakes and fritters. Craft vendors and shops sell locally made goods like jewelry, soaps, textiles and souvenirs. The festival is held in the historic center of Christiansted 3 to 4 times a year on Fridays from 6-10pm. Check theSt. Croix Events Calendar for future dates.  

Moko Jumbies are traditional stilt walkers dressed in colorful and elaborately patterned costumes. They are representative of protective spirits meant to lookout for and ward off evil spirits. The tradition has endured across several Caribbean islands, coming from West African origins. 

Snorkeling Points & Beaches 

Buck Island Reef National Monument.  A desert island surrounded by turquoise waters, reef systems and sea grass meadows. White sand beaches wrap around its shores while picky trees and cacti cover its hillside. It’s only accessible by boat from the mainland of St. Croix making it a popular tour destination. 

Turtle Beach.  A pristine white sand beach on the western side of Buck Island with swimmable turquoise waters. The sandy seafloor and sea grass meadows are home to a large array of marine life. Blue ringed flounder hide beneath algae patches, pufferfish and spearfish swim by, starfish and conches lay on the ocean floor, green sea turtles, spotted eagle rays and sting rays glide through the water, ominous barracuda hunt prey and reef squid spray black ink at pursuing fish. 

Eastern Reef.  A reef at the far eastern point of Buck Island home to large formations of coral and tropical fish. Massive schools of blue tang swim between elk horn corals, colorful parrot fish chomp on the reef, cuttle fish glide past rapidly, large barracuda lurk in the currents, juvenile sea turtles swim through the shallow waters and passageways lead to the outer wall of the reef with deep blue waters. 

Big Beard's Adventure Tours. A local tour operator offering full day (6 hour) and half day (4 hour) tours to Buck Island. Full day tours include a barbecue lunch served beachside with hot dogs, burgers, veggie burgers and mahi mahi. Book here

Frederiksted Pier.  A lengthy pier with a thriving underwater eco system. The posts under the pier and its freestanding mooring structures are completely covered in all kinds of brightly colored corals,  anemones and sponges. Schools of tropical fish swim beneath it and within the crevices of boulders leading towards it. Star fish sprawl across the sandy sea floor while sting rays and spotted eagle rays hunt for buried prey. 

Getting Here. The pier is the perfect spot for snorkeling and free diving with so much to see just beneath the surface. There is no need to swim out far past the first few posts. Enter the water at the south end of the pier across from the dive shops. Use this Google Map Pin for reference. 

Dorsch Beach.  A white sand beach located south of the Frederiksted Pier. It’s a quiet place to swim, sunbathe and snorkel. Crystal clear waters gradate from aquamarine to deep turquoise. The crevices of rock structures close to shore are home to tropical fish, moray eels, sea spiders and urchins. Juvenile coral formations, sea anemones and more fish are visible further out between the shoreline and double buoys. 

Cane Bay Beach.  A popular beach with a tan sand shoreline flanking the island’s verdant hillside. It’s possible to snorkel here however the deep water corals are best explored by scuba diving. There is a dive shop and multiple restaurants. Visit The Landing Beach Bar or Off The Wall for takeaway drinks and sunset meals.

Rainbow Beach.  A popular white sand beach north of Frederiksted with lounge and umbrella rentals, jet skis and a beach bar. It’s the perfect places to sunbathe, swim and watch the sunset while sipping on a Painkiller from Rhythms Beach Bar. 

Frederiksted Beach.  A beach located just north of Fort Frederik with coral sand shores and swimmable blue waters. It’s empty most days but lined with food trucks and beach chair rentals when a cruise ship is docked. Visit the Aquaholic Beach Bar & Grill for takeaway meals and local beers. 

Sandy Point.  A pristine white sand beach with calm turquoise waters stretching nearly two miles around the island’s southwestern most point. The beach is closed from April to August for sea turtle nesting. Though we couldn’t visit the beach, we had a beautiful view of it from the airplane window as we landed. 

Hikes & Lookout Points 

Goat Mountain.  A hilltop lookout with views of the verdant east end of the island and coastline. A gravel trail leads steadily uphill through dry forest home to prickly trees and flowering cacti. Chirping birds sing in the trees while the tiny St. Croix ground lizard jumps between rocks. The trail forks at the hillside’s saddle, leading up towards the summit or downhill towards Jack’s Bay and Isaac’s Bay. 

Getting Here.  The summit is reachable after a 40 minute hike from the Very Long Baseline Array Telescope. The trail is accessible from just beyond its gated enclosure. Use this Google Map Pin to locate it. 

Pro Tip.  Plan to hike in the early morning, starting at 7am to avoid extreme UV and excessive heat.

Point Udall.  The “easternmost point” of the United States. It’s marked by a large stone sundial on a hilltop with views of the surrounding coast. Beware of swarms of bees!  

Places to Eat & Drink

Mutiny Island Vodka Mill Bar.  A tasting room for Mutiny Island Vodka built into an old sugar mill tower on the Christiansted Boardwalk. Visit during their daily happy hour from 4-6pm for a $10 tasting of each of the 8 flavors or a $5 cocktail made with any Mutiny Island vodka of your choice.

Thomas Bakery.  A local bakery serving breads and pastries like cinnamon rolls, titi bread, raisin buns and coconut buns. Arrive early before the sell out. 

Crucian Coffee Club.  A coffee shop with flavorful brews, fresh baked pastries and a selection of Crucian patés like vegetable, conch and chicken.  

Toast Diner.  A breakfast and brunch diner with arepa sandwiches, hash brown casseroles and rum cake french toast. It’s open early, making it the perfect place to eat prior to touring Buck Island. 

Rhythms at Rainbow Beach.  A popular beachfront restaurant at Rainbow Beach. It’s the perfect spot to order a takeaways meal while lounging on the beach or stay for dinner and the sunset. Order the lobster tacos, coconut shrimp and fish sandwich. 

The Landing Beach Bar at Cane Bay.  A restaurant at Cane Bay Beach with local Leatherback beers and dishes like wahoo fish & chips, the crispy fish reuben and rum cake sampler. 

Off The Wall.  A beachfront kiosk with an outdoor patio overlooking the Caribbean. Come for sunset cocktails and island bites like shrimp ceviche, fried mahi bites and homemade salsas served with chips. 

Aquaholic Beach Bar & Grill.  A beachfront kiosk at Frederiksted Beach serving local beers, rum cocktails, grilled foods, salads and burgers. 

Levels.  A live music bar with nightly performers and Caribbean vibes. Visit on the weekends to listen and dance to calypso, jazz and salsa while sipping on island drinks, mocktails or local beers. 

Breakers Roar Tiki Bar.  A former tiki bar offering standard island cocktails like the painkiller, mojito and dark & stormy. They’ll still serve drinks in traditional tiki mugs if you ask. For food, they share the same menu as Harbor Prime. Order the fish and chips, crab cakes and lobster bisque. 

The Bombay Club.  A restaurant nestled inside of a colonial building with stone tunnels and stone walled dining rooms. Their full menu offers all types of mains but their specialty is seafood. Come here for the conch curry, mahi mahi sandwich and grilled lobster. 

Tropical Ice Goddess.  An ice cream shop with tropical and local flavors like soursop, cinnamon, coconut, dulce de leche and rum raisin.

Crucian Cuisine 

St. Croix has a mixture of West Indie & Caribbean flavors brought to the island by different cultures and influences. 

Patés (Empanadas).  Deep fried pastries shaped like half moons and filled with a range of stewed vegetables, seafood or meats. 

Conch.  A sea snail famed for its large shells and succulent meat. It’s served in fritters, soups, curries and sautéed. 

Pot Fish.  A Crucian style of tropical reef fish, typically red snapper pr parrot fish, caught in a wire basket or pot. It can be deep fried, grilled or streamed and is typically served with creole sauce and a side or rice, fried or fungi. 

Chop up.  A vegetable mixture made of stewed or sautéed okra, spinach and eggplant. 

Titi Bread.  A local style of bread baked with pointed ends shaped like nipples.

Johnny Cakes.  A lightly fried and doughy biscuit often served at breakfast. 

Rum Cake.  A Caribbean cake baked with rum and often glazed in pineapple syrup. 

Leatherback Beer.  A beer brewed in the USVI and sold at most restaurant and bars in St. Croix.

Mutiny Island Vodka.  A local distillery making vodka from breadfruit infused with different island flavors like scotch bonnet pepper, ginger lime, hibiscus passionfruit and Caribbean roots. 

Painkiller.  A cocktail originating in the Virgin Island made from rum, pineapple juice, coconut cream and orange juice. It’s found on almost every cocktail menu on the island. 

Location Specifics

Pleasantries.  St. Croix is a small island and people here place extra emphasis on pleasantries like saying “hello” or “good morning.” Many people will often stop to chat, strike up conversation or simply help provide direction if you seem lost. 
Stay Hydrated.  The island can get very hot during the afternoon. Drink plenty of water throughout the day, while snorkeling or hiking.  

Reef Safe Sunblock.  Wear reef safe sunblock while snorkeling or swimming to minimize damage to the corals and coastal ecosystems. Many dive shops on the island sell it. 

US Territory.  The US Virgin Islands are as US territory. American citizens do not need a passport to visit, the island uses the US dollar and English the most commonly spoken language. 

Driving in St. Croix

Driving in St. Croix is one of the best ways to see all corners of the island on your own schedule. The island can be driven from end to end in less than an hour. We rented a car from Centerline Car Rental for the long weekend. The company is well reviewed and prices are fair compared to other rental agencies. 

Drive on the Left.  People drive on the left side of the road using left hand vehicles throughout the US Virgin Islands. 

Road Conditions.  Most main roads are well maintained. Beware of pot holes, especially on side roads and at night. 

Car Break-Ins.  Do not leave anything valuable or visible inside your vehicle. Car break-ins are common across the island. Keep windows rolled down while parked and keep your doors unlocked to prevent broken windows. 

Free Parking.  Parking is free throughout all of St. Croix. We used two central lots in both main towns without issue. In Christiansted, park at the Boardwalk Parking and in Frederiksted, park at Lagoon St Parking.

For Next Time… 

A long weekend was just enough time to get a taste for everything St. Croix has to offer and come up with a list of what to do next time we visit the island.

Ham’s Bluff Lighthouse.  A rusted out and abandoned lighthouse with coastal views of the northwest coast. The lighthouse is reachable after a 30 minute hike from the trail head at the end of Hams Bluff Road. 

Annaly Bay Tide Pools.  A series of swimmable tide pools reachable after a 1 hour hike. Start at the Trumbull Trail Head near the Carambola Beach Resort. Bring water shoes to avoid the sharp rocks and sea urchins. Don’t visit during high tide. 

Salt River Bay National Historic Park.  A river and bay with mangrove forests, bioluminescent jellyfish, glowing plankton, hiking trails and secluded beaches. Nighttime tours in clear kayaks are offered 10 days before and after the new moon.

Carambola Zip Line A zip line park with 3 zip lines, including “The Gauntlet,” a 2,473 ft long and 205 ft steep line over the Carambola Valley. 

Protestant Cay.  A small island offshore from Christiansted with a hotel and public beach. A water taxi leaves regularly from the board walk in front of the Harbor Prime restaurant for $5. 

Cane Bay Wall.  A trench along the continental shelf popular with scuba divers. It’s reachable from the shore of Cane Bay Beach. The Sweet Bottom Dive Center offers introductory dive courses and scuba rentals.

Estate Whim Plantation Museum.  A restored sugar mill converted into a museum with exhibits on the mill’s history and the island’s involvement in the Transatlantic Slave Trade.

Prosperity Farm DistilleryA distillery producing gins and liquors like all spice dram, banana liquor, ginger liquor and amaro from sugarcane. They offer tours and tastings daily from 10am-3:30pm every half hour. 

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Tromsø Norway Travel Guide: Northern Lights, Arctic Fjords & Samí Culture

Explore Tromsø's snowy streets and historic waterfront where Nordic cuisine and Sámi culture meet dramatic fjords, dancing auroras and Arctic adventures.

Tromsø, Norway

Tromsø is a breathtaking city in Northern Norway, located about 200 miles north of the Arctic Circle. Tromsø is living in a snow globe during the wintertime. The city and surrounding nature is truly a winter wonderland that felt warm and vibrant even during the darkest and coldest time of the year. It’s a place to witness the Northern Lights, snowshoe up mountains overlooking the fjords, feed reindeer and learn about the indigenous Sami culture. 

The Gateway to the Arctic 

Tromsø is considered to be the gateway to the Arctic. Its proximity to the Norwegian Sea and temperate climate for its position so far north have made it an ideal spot for Arctic explorers and expeditions throughout history. Its location under the Aurora Oval makes it a prime place to view the Northern Lights. 

Poler Night & Midnight Sun

For two months, from late November through late January, the sun does not rise above the horizon. During this time of the the year, known as Poler Night, nearly all hours of the day are dark. For a few short hours during the morning, the sky brightens up enough to feel like an extended dawn. The addition of snow makes the landscape feel even brighter as it reflects more natural light.

The opposite is true from late May through late July. During this time of the year, known as the Midnight Sun, the sun never sets below the horizon. It stays bright for all hours of the day however when the sun reaches closest to the horizon, the sky lights up with beautiful colors seen during sunset and sunrise. 

The Northern Lights

One of the most popular things to do in Tromsø is watch for the Northern Lights. The city sits directly under the Aurora Oval, the ovular path the Northern Lights appear above Earth’s northern magnetic pole. As a result, if the conditions are right, the Aurora can be seen dancing and swaying above Tromsø during the evening. The best time of the year to see the Aurora in Tromsø is from late September through early April. We visited from late November through early December.

Chasing the Aurora 

Though the Aurora can be seen above the city, the best way to see it is by traveling outside of Tromsø to escape from the light pollution. We managed to see the lights above the city one night during our stay but truly got to experience them during a Northern Lights Safari. Local guides will take visitors outside the city to a nearby fjords or as far away as Finland and Sweden to give you the best chance possible of seeing the lights. There are dozens of experienced guides and tour companies offering safaris to chase the Aurora. We booked a small group tour with Enjoy the Arctic.

We drove an hour outside of the city to Grøtfjorden where we were able to watch the Aurora dance across the sky nearly the whole evening. We even spotted a few meteors. Our guide helped us take photos, built a fire to keep us warm and provided us with warm drinks and veggie dogs to eat. 

Aurora Spotting Tips

  • It needs to be dark and your eyes have to adjust to the dark. Keep flashlights pointed down or use red lights.

  • It needs to be a clear evening, preferably no clouds or haze 

  • Spotting the Aurora isn’t always certain. Even if it’s a dark sky and clear night, there might not be the right solar activity for them to appear. Plan on having a couple nights available to watch for the lights incase your first attempt doesn’t work out. 

  • Use an app called Norway Lights to watch the Aurora forecast. It told us what our chances were of seeing the Aurora based on our location and the time of night.

  • The human eye has a difficult time taking in enough light at night to recognize the Aurora’s true colors like cameras do. With your naked eye, it will appear mostly pale green or dark purple with the occasional flair of neon. Regardless of the intensity, the Aurora is truly a sight to be see. 

  • With the right settings, any DSLR camera will be able to photograph the Aurora. Our DSLR settings were: 

    • Camera (Nikon D300S)

    • 50mm Lens 

    • Aperture (F1.8)

    • ISO (1250)

    • Sutter Speed (2.5)

  • Whether using a camera or a phone to photograph the northern lights, alway use a tripod. Your hands will be too shaky to take a clear image. 

  • Night mode and 10 second exposures on most smart phones will also capture the Aurora. 

  • Dress in warm layers! It is going to be very cold and windy.

Sami Culture & Reindeer

The Sami People are a semi-nomadic nation spread throughout Scandinavia with a tradition based in reindeer herding. For thousands of years, they have established a livelihood using the reindeer for meat, fur and transportation. While in Tromsø, we booked an experience with Tromsø Arctic Reindeer, operated by a family of Sami people to promote their culture, share their stories and offer close experiences with their herd of reindeer.

Reindeer Games

The Sami family welcomed us to their camp and introduced us to their herd of reindeer. Hundreds of the animals roamed the icy field as snow covered peaks stood in the distance. We watched as they played reindeer games, chasing each other around and sparing, like a scene from a Nordic fairy tale. 

Reindeer Sledding & Feeding 

Guided by two reindeer and Sami handlers, we were gently pulled on a sleigh ride across the wintery pasture and landscape. We thanked the reindeer with buckets of food (no, not the glitter and oats you toss outside for Santa’s reindeer) but hearty pellets of grain. They typically graze on the grass beneath the snow but once the snow is too packed down for them to break through they feed on pellets or relocate to a new field. The reindeer, still wild animals, were very excited for the food. They were gentle however at times one would nudge you for attention then burry their face into the bucket. It was amazing getting to be so up close and personal with these animals.

Sami Hospitality & Story Time 

Inside the Sami tents, the family’s matriarch greeted us with hot coffee, cookies and reindeer stew. We ate a vegetarian version and warmed up around a wood burning stove. After our meal, we moved to a different tent, called a lavvu, used for communal gatherings and ceremonies. We sat around a log fire listening to the camp leader and multiple reindeer herders talk about their life and the Sami Culture. They explained the purpose of the traditional clothing and items they carry, many of which were handmade from reindeer. They sung songs, called a joik, which is a traditional form of music sung to someone or something of importance in their lives. The eldest herder told us how he sings for the reindeer and to scare away predators. It was truly a one of a kind experience getting to hear stories from the Sami people and feed their herd. 

Snowshoeing & Fjord Hike

Tromsø is surrounded by snow covered mountain peaks, dramatic fjords and the idyllic landscapes of Northern Norway. We booked a guided snowshoeing excursion to experience the wintery landscape with Northern Horizon. They provided us with transportation, gear and a meal during our trip. 

Ascending the Mountainside 

We began our ascent in the small town of Tromvik, situated along the Norwegian Sea, an hour away from Tromsø. We spent about 2 hours shoe-shoeing the side of the mountain during the brightest hours of the morning before reaching one of its peaks. From the peak, we could look directly across the fjord at a salmon farm and straight out towards the Norwegian Sea. 

Prepare for the Weather 

The hike wasn’t too difficult but it definitely helped having an experienced guide leading the way, watching out for icy crevices and rapidly changing weather. At times, the temperature would drop several degrees or a blizzard would roll in. This was especially true, the higher we climbed in elevation. The decent down the mountain side took about 30 minutes. By the time we reached the car, it was nearly dark again.

A Scenic Drive & Tasty Rest Stop

The scenic drive between Tromsø and Tromvik passed through Grøtfjorden, the same fjord we watched the Northern Lights from. We stopped in the small town of Kvaløysletta to visit Eide Handel AS, a grocery store with a deli counter displaying all types of Norwegian Salmon. They offered dozens of samples, which we tried, before buying a packaged smoked filet to bring home.  

See the Sights

The Arctic Cathedral.  Tromsø’s most recognized site is an Arctic architectural beauty. The modern cathedral, built in 1965, is inspired by the serene arctic landscape surrounding it. The 11 triangles that form its shape are reminiscent of snowy mountain peaks. The pews inside are made from local pine and cushioned in reindeer leather.   

Tromsø Bibliotek.  A contemporary library at the center of Tromsø with four arched and glass sides. The interior has a warm glow and aisles of books that look out over the city. 

Polaria.  A poler aquarium designed to evoke the fractured ice flows seen throughout the Arctic waterways. Each shard of the building is stacked up against one another forming a giant slanted mass.

Fjellheisen (Tromsø Cable Car).  Atop of the mountain across from the island of Tromsøya is an incredible lookout that offers views of the entire city and beyond. This is where we saw the Aurora on our first night. The view is accessible via a cable car or a series of 1,300 mountainside stairs. We took the cable car, however if you opt for the stairs and its snowy, make sure to wear spikes on your boots to prevent slipping and falling. 

Waterfront Wharf.  The city center and its harbor are surrounded by many contemporary buildings, tour ships and views of the landscape. 

Tromsøbura.  The 1km bridge connecting the island of Tromsøya, where most of Tromsø is located, to the adjacent island. The bridge has a pedestrian path which can be walked across in 15 minutes. 

Skansen.  A historic neighborhood located near Tromsøbura on Tromsøya with old painted wooden buildings from the 1850s. It’s a beautiful area to walk around both day and night.  

Storgata.  The downtown main street flanked by numerous restaurants, hotels, bars, cafes and shops. It’s a popular place to explore on foot with heated sidewalks. 

Lake Prestvannet.  Fairly central on the island, the lake is surrounded by a number of hiking and cross country skiing trails. It’s reachable on foot from town by anyone that enjoys walking and hiking. 

The Science Center of Northern Norway.  A planetarium with footage of the Aurora captured during a two year period. If we hadn’t seen the Northern Lights, this would have been the best alternative. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Raketten.  A historic outdoor kiosk offering hot chocolate, mulled wine, reindeer and veggie sausage. Next to the kiosk is a patio with seating and a warm log fire.

Fiskekompaniet.  A higher end restaurant specializing in Norwegian seafood. Warm up with a creamy fish soup prepared table side. The bowl is served with a delicate pile of smoked salmon and white fish then enrobed in a creamy broth. poured from a kettle. For mains, order the crusted filet of cod with a side of potatoes and dill or Norwegian staple, Lutefisk.

Dragoy.  Located in a food hall along the waterfront wharf, this deli counter sells and serves fresh seafood. We shared cold water prawns with artesian mayonnaise on a large slice of sourdough bread. They’re also known for their fish and chips. 

Olhallen.  This is the city’s oldest pub and brewery with a selection of nearly 50 different craft beers and ciders. 

Bardus Bistro.  Located inside an old yellow wooden house, this charming restaurant offers a small menu of traditional Norwegian dishes like smoked cod, reindeer stew and root vegetable salad. 

Bardus Bar.  Located next door to Bardus Bistro, this bar offers the best cocktails in town. It’s great spot to stop before or after dinner next door.

Smørtorget.  A cafe offering pastries and open face sandwiches. It’s a great spot to have breakfast before setting out on an excursion.

Nordic Cuisine 

Lutefisk.  Air dried white fish that undergoes several days of processing involving soaking in water and lye to rehydrate the fish. As the fish rehydrates, it looses a portion of its protein becoming slightly gelatinous. The fish is then cooked and served with potatoes and multiple condiments and sides including peas, pickled veggies, brown cheese, melted butter and mustard.

Norwegian Salmon.  Caught or farmed in the fjords of Norway, salmon is prepared and served in many ways. The most common styled is smoked though it is also often fried, boiled or served raw. 

Pickled Veggies.  Almost every meal we enjoyed was topped with pickled veggies. Carrot, fennel, beed, cucumber and onion were quite common. They added extra flavor and color to each dish. 

Lefse.  Traditional Norwegian flatbread made with potatoes, flour, butter, and milk.

Buns.  A pastry that ranges from sweet rolls, to swirls or knots. Try them with cinnamon and cardamom. 

Mulled Wine.  Hot spiced wine was very popular. The Norwegian way of making it is by adding a spoon full of chopped nuts and raisins before serving. 

Getting Around 

Getting to Tromsø.  To fly into Tromsø, you’ll likely need to transfer in Oslo. Booking directly through Norwegian Airlines is usually the most convenient and affordable option. Tromsø is about a 2 hour flight from Oslo. 

To/From Tromsø Airport.  Use Flybussen, the airport express bus. It routinely travels in a loop from the airport to multiple hotels in central Tromsø. It costs roughly $20 for a round trip ticket. 

Getting Around Tromsø.  The city and surrounding area is walkable, though a bit hilly and icy during the winter. The main street, Storgata, has heated sidewalks that keep snow and ice from freezing. Outside of this, it’s best to be cautious while walking on the snow and ice. We had a few slips ourselves but were layered in enough clothing to keep us from bruising. We noticed that many people wore spikes on their boots for extra traction. Just remember to take them off before entering indoors. One of the cutest things we saw were mother’s pushing their children in strollers with sleds instead of wheels. 

By Taxi.  Taxi’s can be pricy but are convenient when trying to get around outside the Main Street. The two main taxi companies are Tromsø Taxi and Din Taxi. Taxis are also available through Uber. This is a general breakdown of cost:

  • Around Town: $10 - $15 (From downtown to the cable car)

  • Across Town: $15 - $35 (From the airport to downtown)

  • Outside of Town: $35 - $60 (From Tromsø to a nearby town)

Getting Outside of Town.  Renting a car is the best option to get between Tromsø and anywhere else outside the city. Nearly all excursions will include transportation.

What to Wear

If you’re visiting in the wintertime like we did, you need to dress warm! It is the Arctic after all. You’ll need a base layer, mid layer and outer layer. Tuck your base and mid layers into each other to better hold in heat and prevent wind from getting under your clothes. In addition to layers, we also used thermal toe and hand warmers while we were snowshoeing and watching for the Northern Lights. 

Base Layer

  • Thermal underwear

  • Thermal long sleeve shirt 

  • Wool socks

  • Glove liners

Mid Layer 

  • Jeans or pants

  • A cute Norwegian sweater (you can buy one in town)

  • A lightweight quilted jacket (down or down alternative) 

  • More socks (you’ll need to double up) 

Outer Layer 

  • Snow pants (mainly for extended periods outdoors) 

  • Winter coat (you’ll want something that will break the wind and keep you warm)

  • Heavy gloves 

  • A warm scarf and hat 

  • Boots (bring strap on spikes or cleats)

Where to Stay

Villa 1924 Loft.  An attic apartment in an A frame style space with Nordic pine wall panels, heated floors and tiny windows with views of Tromsø. It’s a cozy space to stay, minutes away from the city center on foot.Book on Airbnb

For Next Time…

Tromsø is an enchanting city that we one day hope to return to whether during the poler night of winter or midnight sun of summer! We plan to experience the city’s famed floating spas, husky excursions and whale spotting tours in the fjords. 

Vulkana Spa BoatA boat with a saltwater hot tub, sauna, steam bath and fireplace lounge. The crew provides dinner and facilitates cold water plunges in the harbor. 

Husky Excursions.  Multiple companies offer different of Husky excursions including husky mushing, dog sledding and cuddling with cute puppies. Experiences vary from short 30 minute trips, to hour long excursions and overnight stays watching for the Northern Lights. 

Whale Spotting & Fjord Tours.  Orcas and Humpbacks are frequently seen in the winter months from November to February while hunting for herring. There is a number tour companies offering boat trips through the fjords and sometimes into the Norwegian Sea. 

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Amsterdam Travel Guide: Canals, Museums & Autumn Colors

Stroll along Amsterdam's picturesque canals through historic neighborhoods to renowned museums and lively markets as golden leaves fall across cobblestone streets.

Autumn in Amsterdam

Autumn in Amsterdam is magical time of year. The days are cool and the nights long. Golden leaves fall onto cobblestone streets while the amber glow of street lamps illuminates historic buildings lining the rings of canals. The crisp air and ability to dress in layers made it a cozy time to visit. 

See the City 

Whether on foot, by bike or boat, Amsterdam is a city that’s meant to be explored! Thin brick buildings, elegant row houses and house boats line the city’s famed canals. Creative restaurants and atmospheric cafes offer European dining experiences. Displays at vintage stores and design shops entice passersby to window shop. Food and flea markets encompass public squares and plazas.  Paintings by Dutch Masters, Van Gogh, Rembrandt and Vermeer are displayed in galleries of world class museums. 

Cruise the Canals

Amsterdam is best seen by cruising its charming canals! Boats depart from various docks across the city, each offering leisurely sightseeing and dining experiences. From within the covered boat, we looked out at the beautifully illuminated buildings, into countless house boats and admired how effortlessly the captain seemed to navigate through the narrow passageways and low bridges. Our tour included a spread of Dutch cheeses paired with European wines. Book with Stromma

Visit the Neighborhoods 

The Canal Belt.  The canals define Amsterdam branching out in semi-circles from the city’s center. The inner 4 rings are designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Sight. Spend time exploring them, admiring the architecture and their house boats. 

Binnenstad.  The central neighborhood of Amsterdam at the inner heart of The Canal Belt. It’s defined by its slanted row houses, historic monuments and bustling walking streets. It surrounds the De Wallen, the city’s red light district. 

De Wallen (Red Light District).  One of the oldest and well known, if not infamous, neighborhoods in Amsterdam. It’s famous for its historic architecture, narrow streets, sex-workers, nightly peep shows and coffee shops. Even if you’re not inserted in the scene, it’s an exciting neighborhood to walk through by day or night.

De Pijp.  Avibrant neighborhood with a more local atmosphere than the central parts of the city. It’s home to The Heineken Brewery and one of the city’s largest markets, Albert Cuyp Market. We loved coming here for its quantity of cafes, making an effort to “cafe crawl” across the neighborhood and sip on different brews in the autumn air. 

Oud West.  This expansive neighborhood is a great place to visit for its many restaurants, bars, markets, vintage and interior design shops. It’s nearby the city’s largest park, Vondelpark, and home to Ten Katemarkt Market and the De Hallen Food Hall.

Amsterdam Noord.  Is a former industrial neighborhood that’s become home to a large artist community. Many former warehouses have been transformed into waterfront bars, flea markets and art studios. It’s accessible via a ferry near Central Station.

IJburg.  A neighborhood built on an artificial island with boat lined canals and marinas, ultra modern row houses, tree lined sidewalks and cobblestone plazas. It’s contemporary contrast and historic similarities with the city’s oldest neighborhoods make it a unique place to visit. We stayed here in a modern cabin at an architect’s property. Book here on Airbnb.

See the Museums & Sights

Rijksmuseum.  Holland’s National Art Museum housing Dutch works created throughout the past several centuries. The most famous pieces to see are Vermeer’s The Milkmaid and Rembrandt’s The Night Watch. The museum is also home to the Cuypers Library, a picturesque art history and research library.  

Van Gogh Museum.  Amuseum dedicated to Van Gogh, featuring hundreds of pieces created by him that depict the story of his life from when he began painting until his death. If you appreciate Van Gogh’s work, this museum is truly worth visiting. Some notable pieces include a variety of his self portraits, The Potato Eaters, Sunflowers and The Wheat Field with Crows.

Museumplein.  A public square surrounded by multiple museums including the Rijksmuseum and Van Gogh Museum. Come here to climb and sit on the I Amsterdam Sign.

Canal Houses.  The narrow, ornate and sometimes slanted canal houses can be seen throughout Amsterdam. 

  • Dancing Houses.A series of strikingly slanted canal houses along the Amstel River. 

  • The Golden Bend.  A bend along the Herengracht Canal with the oldest and most stately canal houses. 

  • Twins.  Look for twins, two identical houses built side by side.

Vondelpark.   The city’s largest park and green space. It’s a calm area for picnicking, bicycling and escaping the energy along the canals and streets.

Begijnhof.   A small grassy oasis surrounded by beautiful brick row houses. 

Homomonument.   A series of three triangular monuments built into a canal lined square to honor the LGBTQ+ people persecuted during the Holocaust. Next to it is the Pink Point, a resourceful gay tourist info center.

Anne Frank House.  The home where Anne Frank and her family hid from nazi persecution during WWII. We missed our opportunity to visit not knowing that tickets book up a week in advance. Reserve online here

Visit the Markets & Shopping Streets 

There are many opportunities to shop and visit markets in Amsterdam. The city is filled with small business and shops tucked into the first floors of the canal houses. Almost every neighborhood hosts its own market, whether it be mostly produce, clothes, antiques or a combination of them all. 

Waterlooplein Market.  A 300 booth flea market with vintage goods, records, cameras, antiques and bohemian clothes. Several food carts serve Dutch favorites like stroopwafels, poffertjes, coffee and frites. 

Ten Katemarkt.  An outdoor weekend market selling produce, cheeses, spices, breads, mushrooms, seafood, meats and street food located next to De Hallen, A large indoor food hall with a variety of Dutch and international cuisines, several bars offering local beers and artisan gin and tonics. 

De 9 Straatjes.  This district within the Canal Belt is known for its picturesque streets lined with boutiques, design shops, concept stores and clothing retailers. We spent hours one afternoon walking from shop to shop, mostly looking, at all the pretty things in search of something affordable to bring home. 

Nieuwendijk.  A lengthy pedestrian street flanked by brick row houses home to hundreds of shops and restaurants including fromageries with displays of Dutch Gouda and “coffee shops” selling cannabis products. 

Nieuwe Spiegelstraat.  A two block section, flanked between the Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht Canals lined with antique shops and galleries. Come here to buy a set of blue and white painted porcelain salt and pepper shakers shaped like the city’s row houses.

Places to Eat & Drink

There are endless options when it comes to dining in Amsterdam. Whether along a canal, in a historic building, near a windmill or simply on the sidewalk. We never had a bad meal anywhere we dined. One thing we quickly learned is that you need a reservation for dinner at most restaurants at least 24 hours in advance, especially on weekends! Here are number of a favorite spots. 

IJ Brewerey.  A brewery and beer garden located next to a 16th century windmill.

Bakers and Roasters.  A brunch spot with all types of eggs inspired by different cultures, fruit dishes, vegetarian meals and strong coffee. We went for the banana nut French toast and eggs royal. 

Brasserie Van Speyk.   A romantic brick walled restaurant with glittering chandeliers, Dutch classics and North Sea seafood. Come here for the French style dover sole paired with champagne. 

Balthazars Keuken.   A tiny homestyle restaurant with a daily three course menu. Make a reservation! 

Pulitzer's Bar.   A dark and moody reading room-like lounge offering high end cocktails and small bites. 

Café ‘t Mandje.   A very eclectic and welcoming gay bar that’s been around since 1927. 

Venus & Adonis.   A cozy restaurant and cocktail bar specializing in craft gin & tonics. 

Cafe & Bakery Crawl

Before visiting Amsterdam, we read somewhere that the Dutch consume more coffee per person than any other country in the world. As avid coffee drinkers ourselves, we decided to visit a number of cafes while in town. Here are a few of our favorite spots to sip on a coffee at any time of day. 

Van Wonderen Stroopwafels.  A bakery specializingin artisan stroopwafels decorated with toppings like coconut, marshmallows, chocolate, nuts and sprinkles. 

Scandinavian Embassy.   A popular cafe with slow brewed and drip coffees. Order one of their cinnamon knots.

Trakteren.  A small cafe specializing in lattes and cappuccinos with cute foam artwork of animals. 

Lot Sixty One.  A canal side cafe with house roasted coffee and tasty baked sweets.

Koffieschenkerij.  A cafe located on the grounds of the Oude Kerk, Amsterdam’s oldest building. Sip on a coffee at their outdoor patio with views of the cathedral.

Back to Black.  A corner cafe with a bohemian feel, bold coffees and an array of sweets. 

Dutch Cuisine 

Gouda.  One of the most well known Dutch cheeses. Fromageries around the city liberally hand out free samples of the cheese made with different favors and ages. 

Stroopwafels.  Thin waffle crisps with caramel layered in-between. Use them to cover your hot coffee until the inside gets gooey.

Deep Dish Dutch Apple Pie.   A classic dessert but even more special when baked deep dish. Visit Wenkel 43 or keep an eye our for other cafes serving it. 

Pickled Herring.  Raw herring served with pickles and onions. It can be found at street carts around the city, one of which is Haring & Co.

Frites & Mayo.  Another common street food, also know as French Fries. They’re served in a paper cone with mayonnaise. Visit Wil Graanstra Friteshuis or  watch out for them at other street carts. Order them twice fried! 

Bitterballen & Kroketten.  Two types of deep fried croquettes, made with a savory sauce and meat or mashed potatoes. The first is often shaped into a ball while the second is shaped like a cylinder. 

Poffertjes (Dutch pancakes).  Fluffy, tiny, yeasted and buckwheat pancakes covered in powdered sugar or jam. 

Gin and Tonic.  Almost every bar offers their own take on this classic cocktail by infusing the drinks and offering creative mixes.

Getting Around 

Getting around Amsterdam is one of the most enjoyable ways to explore and experience the city! There are countless options from bicycling, taking a canal tour, riding the tram or simply walking.  

By Bike.  Bikes are used as the preferred method of transit by locals. Multiple companies offer bike tours and rent bikes to tourists for single and multi days including: Ajax Bike, Yellow Bike and Mac Bike. Daily rentals cost around €20 depending on the type of bike. Some rentals require a security deposit or minimal insurance fee incase of damage or theft. 

On Foot.  Amsterdam’s neighborhoods are easily walkable by those who enjoy getting around on foot. 

On Public Transit.  The trams, busses and metro are the most reliable and economical option to get across the city. There are multiple passes that work 

  • GVB Transit Card. A single or multi-day pass that offers unlimited transit at on trams, buses and metro lines.

  • Amsterdam Card.  Unlimited transit on trams, buses and metro lines including access to the museums and a canal cruise. Cost vary by pass type, ranging from 1 to 5 days.  

  • Single ride tickets can be purchased on any form of public transit. 

Taxis and Ubers.  The most expensive to get around the city. Luckily they’re almost unnecessary other than getting to/from the airport. They typically cost €50 one way. 

Location Specifics 

Language.  Dutch is the official language however English is widely spoke. 

Card vs Cash.  Most businesses accept credit and debit card, including street food stands. Carry small denominations of Euros for markets, public transit and tips. 

Watch for Cyclists.  Be cautious while riding bikes and watch out for cyclists when crossing streets.

Photography.  Be respectful and don’t take photos of sex-workers in the RLD.

Reservations.  Make reservations at restaurants at least 24 hours in advance.

Tipping.  Like many places in Europe, tipping more that 10% is not required.

Tourist Traps.  Avoid tourist traps near Dam Square and Central. Explore the inner canal rings and branch out further into the outer neighborhoods. 

For Next Time…

Amsterdam is a mesmerizing city that we one day hope to return to! Some ideas we have for next time include:

Moco Museum.  A modern art museum featuring a large collection of physical, interactive and digital works by artists including Warhol, Haring, Banksy, Basquiat and Kusama. 

The Heineken Experience.  A tour of the Heineken Brewery where you’re able to cap your own bottle of beer. 

Take a Day Trip.  With more time, we would visit the Dutch countryside and neighboring cities of Utrecht, Rotterdam and The Hague.

Hotel Inntel Zaandam.  A unique hotel made to look like a stack of green and blue painted country cottages. 

Zaandam Windmills.  An open air museum with several preserved windmills dating back to the 1850s. 

Amsterdam Pride.  A LGBTQ+ pride parade with floats and boats sailing down the Prinsengracht Canal. 

Canal Ice Skating.  Return during wintertime when the Keizersgracht Canal freezes over and becomes a seasonal ice rink. 

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Montgomery St. Peter Montgomery St. Peter

Southwest USA Road Trip Guide: National Parks & Desert Landscapes

Journey through the American Southwest, exploring national parks, desert landscapes, scenic drives and iconic landmarks across one unforgettable road trip.

The American Southwest 

The American Southwest is a playground of incredible rock formations, other worldly deserts and endless highways. The region overlaps several states, includes many Native American reservations and is home to some of the country’s most cherished National Parks. 

An American Road Trip 

There’s something so freeing and spontaneous about road trips: listening to good music, driving with the windows down, stopping at roadside attractions and ordering drive through meals. Starting in Los Angeles, we spent 10 days driving along sections of Old Route 66 across Southern California, Arizona and Utah. 

Southern California 

Our roadtrip through Southern California led us from Los Angles into to desert. We passed roadside attractions, hiked through national parks and visited forgotten communities. 

Santa Monica Pier 

The Santa Monica Pier made for a fitting place start to our roadtrip, being the point where the historic Route 66 meets the Pacific Ocean. The wooden pier is buzzing with electronic violinists, fishermen and neon lights from vintage amusement park rides. It boasts coastal views of the ocean and tan sand shore line stretching along the Pacific Coast Highway. 

The Lobster Restaurant.  A seafood restaurant at the entrance of the Santa Monica Pier with dishes like grilled lobster, lobster mac and cheese and lobster rolls, all best paired with a Pacifico beer. 

Randy’s Donuts 

An landmark donut shop, easily recognized by the massive donut resting on top of its roof. It’s been featured in video games, movies, tv shows and referenced across Hollywood. We ordered coffees and a dozen donuts to begin our first morning on the road!

Cabazon Dinosaurs

Located just off the highway in Cabazon, CA, these dinosaurs captured our attention and imagination. This roadside attraction, considered to be one of the greatest, features two giant dinos: A brachiosaurus named Dinny the Dinosaur and a t-rex named Mr. Rex. We reveled at, walked under, around and even climbed inside both of them. 

Joshua Tree National Park

Joshua Tree National Park is one of the United States most treasured landscapes, home to exotic desert plant life, giant boulders and hiking trails. It’s famed for its namesake, the Joshua Tree, a multi-armed, spike leaved, desert growing plant. They are a fragile and enduring symbol the the Mojave Desert where the park resides, thriving in harsh conditions with little water and persistent sunlight.

Hiking Trails & Desert Sights 

Park Blvd.  The main road in Joshua Tree National Park. Several hiking trails branch off from it, meandering across the desert landscape and connecting with other trails. Choosing a trail head with available parking, we began hiking the South Side Connector Trail and later merging with the Big Foot Trail. We spent hours hiking through a forest of Joshua Trees, along side large rock formations and through an area with a wash where we saw a desert tortoises. 

Willow’s Hole Trail.  Considered one of Joshua Tree’s most scenic hikes. The trail offers a variety of the entire Joshua Tree landscape ending at a desert oasis surrounded by willow trees. The first half of the trial is relatively flat, surrounded by large rock formations, Joshua Trees, desert plants and countless whitetail and jackrabbits. The second half of the trail winds through a canyon with incredible cliffs and washes before ending at the peaceful oasis. During the return hike, we enjoyed golden hour illuminating the terrain and watched as the sunset painted the sky in an array of colors. 

Pro Tip.  Begin in the late afternoon to avoid peak heat, planning to finish the hike around sunset.

Good to Know.  The hike spans more than 7 miles round trip and takes about 4 hours at a normal pace. Be prepared to climb over large boulders to avoid floods parts of the trail. 

Chola Cactus Garden.  Located midway along Pinto Basin Road is this incredible cactus garden filled with Chola cacti. Watch your step along the trail and don’t touch them. 

Pinto Basin Road.  A scenic road leading from the north end to south end of the park, taking about an hour to drive. Most Joshua Trees are located in the High Mojave Desert in the north while the Colorado Desert to the south is known for its its cacti patches. 

Pinto Basin.  A vast swath of cacti covered desert and mountains. It’s easily viewed from the Pinto Basin Road.

Ocotillo Patch.  Located near the south end of Pinto Basin road is an extensive patch of Ocotillo Cacti. These massive cacti grow several feet high and gracefully sway in the wind.

Skull Rock.  An eroded rock formation that resembles the shape of a human skull.

The Night Sky.  The High Mojave Desert is located far enough from any major cities making light pollution very minimal and offering incredible night sky views. 

Joshua Tree Essentials 

Maps & Park Pass. Stop at one of the Visitor Centers to buy a park pass and map. Ask a ranger for recommendations on where to hike based on what you want to do or see. Visit the National Park Service for detailed info on Joshua Tree and its trails. Alternatively, set up an account with All Trails for detailed info on all of the parks routes with info curated by other hikers. 

What to Bring

  • Water

  • Trail Snacks

  • Sunblock & Sunglasses 

  • Flashlight 

  • Map 

Where to Stay

There’s no shortage of places to stay in and around Joshua Tree. The park itself has a few campgrounds while many quaint desert resorts, motels and unique stays surround the park. 

Joshua Tree Airstream.  A traditional Airstream camper set amongst the shrub covered desert landscape. The cozy space is fully equipped with two beds, a communal area, kitchen, toilet and shower. It’s located less than 30 minutes from the West Entrance Station. Book on Airbnb.

Salvation Mountain 

Salvation Mountain is a massive art piece located in the California Desert started by Leonard Knight in the mid 80s. The site is inspired by the scriptural passages with the simple message, “god is love.” Love, in our opinion is the true theme of this place. The mountain is covered in colorful and peaceful imagery of waterfalls, flowers and the yellow brick road centered around the most prominent word, love, situated above a giant heart. The structure is built from a mixture of hay, packed clay and layers of paint.

Slab City & East Jesus 

Located just beyond Salvation Mountain are two off the grid alternative living communities, Slab City and East Jesus.

Slab City.  A community named for remnants of concrete slabs left behind after the demolition of a military training camp. The slabs are home to RVs, permanent trailers, make shift buildings and piles of debris. Many of the folks who live here have come to live off the grid while others are here as a result of poverty. There is no electricity, running water, waste management or local government. Despite that, there is a certain since of community with its own library, golf course, clubs and music venues. 

East Jesus.  A sustainable and habitable art installation focused on creative re-use. The experimental community is built from discarded materials and salvaged waste. It’s inhabited by artists, musicians, writers and other creatives. We spent hours wandering, observing and talking with some of the locals to get a better perspective on the place. Come here with an open mind. There is no where else quite like it. 

Salton Sea & Bombay Beach 

The Salton Sea.  An ancient lake bed, accidentally flooded during the early 20th Century, now contaminated with agricultural runoff. The shrinking body of water and its shoreline is covered in the decomposing remains of fish, dried clay and salt deposits. 

Bombay Beach.  A once thriving seaside community catering to celebrities, retirees and vacationers during the mid 20th Century. The town, now mostly forgotten is a place stunted in its growth yet still inhabited by a small number of families and artists. We passed a man painting television screens on the street, two children seamlessly sweeping dirt for leisure and a woman sitting alone on a chair in the middle of an empty lot. Many homes have been left behind due to the toxicity of the sea and damage caused by the salinity in the air. A sobering place that should’t be overlooked or looked down upon. 

Northern Arizona 

Our roadtrip through Northern Arizona led us to some of the United States greatest natural wonders and pre-Columbian ruins.

The Grand Canyon 

The Grand Canyon is revered as one of the greatest natural sights on Earth. Its size, at 1 mile deep and up to 18 miles wide, reveals millions of years of layered sediment and orange hued rock. We overlooked the South Rim of the canyon during the middle of a blizzard, unable to see much through the white out, we laughed and vowed to return one day!

Horseshoe Bend

Horseshoe Bend is a 1,000 foot steep bend of the the Colorado River in the shape of a horseshoe. It’s a breathtaking and truly awe inspiring place. We spent the late afternoon wandering the rim and admiring its beauty. Located just off the highway outside of Paige, AZ and accessible by a 1.5 mile hike. The overlook is open daily from sunrise to sunset. Bring cash for the entrance fee. 

Lake Powell & Navajo Canyon 

Lake Powell is a manmade lake created by the Glenn Canyon Dam with over 2000 miles of shoreline. One of the best ways to experience it is by boat. Rent an boat from the Antelope Point Marina to explore the lake. Visit Navajo Canyon, a 16 mile long canyon with massive orange and brown cliffs ranging in height on all sides. The canyon is fairly wide but narrows in areas with tiny offshoots, carefully accessible by boat. 

Navajo Cliff Dwellings 

The Navajo Cliff Dwellings, also called The Betatakin Cliff Dwellings, are one of the best surviving examples of pre-Colombian civilization in the American Southwest. At its peak nearly 800 years ago, it was home to hundreds of people and contained over 120 sandstone structures built into the protected cliffside. The cave dwellings can be viewed from an observation point at the end of a short hike from the Navajo National Monument Visitor Center. 

Southern Utah 

Our roadtrip brought us into the southern sliver of Utah, a part of the state overlapped by the Navajo Nation and defined by its dramatic buttes. 

Monument Valley 

Monument Valley offers views of the most quintessential western landscapes and scenery. The valley is comprised of towering buttes and crumbling rock formations that rise from the orange hued desert landscape. Many of the buttes and mesas are visible from roadside overlooks within and outside the Tribal Park.

Sentinel Mesa.  A desert plateau and cliff formation with dramatic views overlooking Monument Valley’s three most famous buttes: West Mitten Butte, East Mitten Butte and Merrick Butte. The observation point is reachable by hiking a trail at the end of Sentinel Mesa RoadAlways ask for permission to park or hike on private property. 

Stay in a Navajo Hogan.  A Hogan is a traditional Navajo home, once common throughout the tribal nation. These domed huts are built from cedar structures covered in layers of sand and clay to provide insulation from the heat and cold. Most Navajo People live in modern homes today but keep a Hogan on their property for guests and ceremonial purposes. Staying in one in the middle of Monument Valley was an unforgettable experience. It’s interior was rustic, with beds covered in Navajo blankets and a central wood burning stove. Our particular Hogan was built in 1934 and has been maintained ever since. Book here on Airbnb!

Try Navajo Frybread.  A round piece of flat dough deep fried until golden and puffy. It’s often made and served hot as a sweet or savory snack. Visit the San Juan Trading Post & Cafe in the town of Mexican Hat for their version, The Navajo Taco, with frybread covered in bean, tomato, lettuce, onion and cheese. For something sweet, order the Sweet Frybread, lightly covered in a sugary syrup. 

Forest Gump Hill

Forest Gump Hill is a scenic stretch of road that disappears into the horizon of Monument Valley. It’s been made famous by many Western movies and Hollywood films, most notably, Forest Gump. It’s here where Tom Hank’s character stopped running after 4 years crossing the country. It even has its own emoji. 

Mexican Hat

Mexican Hat is a rock formation named after a large flat rock, precariously balanced on top of a small vertical base protruding from the hillside, described as resembling a mariachi’s sombrero. Hiking trails lead around the base and underside of the “hat.” From here, there are beautiful views of the green and orange hillside carved out by the San Juan River.

Central Arizona 

Central Arizona is home to desert landscapes, meteor craters and national parks, much of it reachable along Old Route 66 (now Interstate 40).

Old Route 66

Old Route 66 is one of the most famous and nostalgic roads in the United States. It’s dotted with numerous small towns, roadside attractions, motels and diners. 

Holbrook, Arizona.  A small town along Old Route 66 famed for its roadside attractions, western history and Americana charm. The main street is lined with old buildings surviving from the wild west, a tee pee themes motels, retro roadsigns, several rock shops and attention grabbing roadside dinosaurs. 

Wigwam Motel.  A historic motel famed for its concrete and steel formed tee pees lined with vintage cars and a retro neon road sign. The motel has 15 tee pees, each acting as their own guest room. The stay was incredibly cute and felt like we had transported to a different era. Book here!

Winslow, Arizona.  A historic town along Old Route 66 made famous by The Eagles 1972 hit, “Take It Easy,” featuring the lyrics “I'm a-standin' on a corner in Winslow, Arizona.” Drive through the town to stand on said corner as the song plays on repeat over loud speakers.

Mr D'z Route 66 Diner.  A classic greasy spoon and retro style Americana style diner with an extensive menu of omelettes, sandwiches and milkshakes. It’s interior is decorated with teal and pink upholstered booths, black and white checkered floors, framed pictures and vintage memorabilia. 

The Roadkill Cafe/O.K. Saloon.  A famed restaurant along Old Route 66 with American style comfort foods like burgers, sandwiches and baked potatoes. It’s pine paneled interior is decorated with all kinds of taxidermy animals and vintage signs.

Barringer Meteor Crater

The Barringer Metror Crater is a giant impact crater formed over 50,000 years ago, measuring nearly a mile across and over 500 feet deep. The crater is accessible to view through the park’s visitor center and has two observation decks on its rim. Within the visitor center are a large number of meteorites on display as well as small fragments of it for sale.

Meteor City.  An abandoned roadside attraction near the Barringer Metror Crater. It was started in the late 30s as a gas station, grocery store and souvenir stand along the Old Route 66.It’s an eerie spot to walk around and watch trains pass by.

Petrified Forest National Park 

The Petrified Forest is a National Park covers a vast area of desert that was once home to an ancient rainforest. Preserved under the soil and exposed due to erosion are the remains of fossilized trees from the forest that existed over 200 million years ago. Some of the trees are so well preserved that you can count the rings and feel the grain of the bark. 

Blue Mesa.  An area of the Petrified Forest eroded by rain revealing colorful bands of blue, purple, grey and red soil as well as the petrified wood. Drive around its loop and hike the Blue Mesa Trail, an area with massive logs and fragments of the fossilized trees laying across the ground. It was crazy to think that we were walking across land where the dinosaurs roamed and a forest thrived over 200 million years ago. 

Southern Arizona

Southern Arizona is a dry and aired place, defined by its towering Saguaro cacti, desert landscapes and Southwestern cities. 

Saguaro National Park 

Located within in the Sonoran Desert outside of Tucson is Saguaro National Park, home to the Saguaro Cactus. The Saguaro is the classic symbol of the Southwest with its tall waxy green trunk and multiple arms. The park is divided into two separate districts located on opposite sides of Tucson. The Tucson Mountain District to the West and The Rincon Mountain District to the East. 

The Rincon Mountain District.  The eastern half of Saguaro National Park with a drivable loop and hiking trails with views of the Sonoran Desert and it’s towering Saguaro Cacti. It’s easy to spend an entire day here. 

Cactus Forest Drive.  An loop road leading through the The Rincon Mountain District. Its a scenic way to see a vast region of the park, lined with hiking trails, observation points and picnic areas. 

Cactus Forest Trail.  A lengthy trail meandering across the desert terrain densely populated with mature saguaros. Beware of diamond back rattle snakes slithering across the trail. 

Pro Tip. Wear sunblock and bring plenty of water for hiking, especially during the peak afternoon hours. 

Tucson’s Barrio Viejo 

Tucson’s Barrio Viejo is a historic neighborhood and one of the city’s first. It’s influenced by Mexican American influences with old adobe buildings, all painted vibrant colors and landscaped with desert cacti. Spend time walking around the barrio, imaging what it would be like to live in such a stunning place. 

Driving in The American Southwest

We spent 10 days driving thousands of miles around the American Southwest and its seemingly endless highways. Below are some tips for a making a smooth roadtrip. 

Maps.  Download offline maps and plan your route. Ask for an old school paper map from the rental agency or pick one up at a rest stop as a back up. 

Distance.  The southwest is a vast region of the country. Expect to drive hundreds of miles a day and thousands during the course of a multi-day to two week roadtrip. 

Gasoline.  Keep your tank at least half full. There are vast stretches without any gas stations. 

Be Spontaneous.  Give yourself extra time to get around and expect to make unexpected stops at roadside attractions and lookout points. Expect the occasional detour. 

Weather.  Check the forecast prior to driving, especially in the mountains. It’s not fun to get trapped in a blizzard.

Playlist.  Have plenty of music or audio books teed up for the long drive and days in the car. 

For Next Time…

The American Southwest is a vast region of the country where endless roads criss cross dramatic landscapes, small towns, big cities and historic sights. If we had more time, there is so much more we would see and do. Below is an extensive list of some of those places: 

The Pacific Coast Highway.  A coastal road stretching hundreds of miles along California’s Pacific Coast. 

Palm Springs.  A California town famed for it’s retro and mid-century style architecture, palm lined boulevards and desert landscapes. 

Pioneer Town.  An 1880s themed western town with dirt roads, wooden buildings, saloons and wanted posters. 

Sequoia National Park.  A California park with a forest of towering sequoia redwood trees, including the, General Sherman Tree, the world’s largest living tree. 

Death Valley National Park.  Considered one of the hottest and driest places on Earth with summer time temperatures often exceeding 120 degrees fahrenhrit, especially in Furnace Creek. 

Antelope Canyon.  A picturesque, narrow and winding sandstone canyon. It can only accessed via a Navajo guide. 

Vermilion Cliffs.  A sweeping wave of orange and golden shades of sandstone.

Beaver Falls & Havasu Falls.  Two turquoise waterfalls hidden in the middle of Arizona’s desert landscape on the Havasupai Reservation. 

Sedona, Arizona.  A desert town with striking rock formations, pine forests and breathtaking hiking trails, including the Devil’s Bridge Trail.

Santa Fe, New Mexico.  A historic and artsy pueblo with galleries, museums and adobe landmarks. 

White Sands National Park.  A sprawling desert park with white sand dunes cresting across the horizon. 

Taos Pueblo.  An adobe city, home to the Taos Pueblo people, dating back over 1,000 years. 

Zion National Park.  A national park with verdant oases, emerald river pools, steep canyons and hiking trails including Angles Landing. 

Bryce Canyon.  A dramatic canyon filled with hundreds of red and orange sandstone spires. 

Arches National Park.  A national park with over 2,000 naturally formed sandstone arches. 

Bonneville Salt Flats.  The location of an ancient salt lake with a crystalline salt crust covering its floor. 

Dinosaur National Monument.  A reserve with hundreds of paleontological sights and fossilized dinosaurs. 

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Montgomery St. Peter Montgomery St. Peter

New Orleans Travel Guide: Food, Jazz & Local Culture

Experience New Orleans through legendary food, live jazz, historic neighborhoods and local culture from the French Quarter and beyond.

New Orleans, Louisiana

New Orleans is a historic city with a lively, liberal and romantic atmosphere. We fell in love with NOLA so much so that it’s where we decided to get married! Between visiting venues and wedding planning, we spent time indulging in the city’s unique Cajun cuisine and Creole flavors, riding the street car down oak lined boulevards, walking through residential neighborhoods to look at the colorful cottages, listening to Jazz echo from the bars while drinking in the streets and learning more about the city’s past. Above all, New Orleans is a place to relax and celebrate, one of the many reason we chose to it for our wedding day!

Explore the Neighborhoods & Streets

The French Quarter.  The Quarter is the historic center of New Orleans with Spanish and French architecture, gas lit lanterns and cobble stone streets. It’s a hub for live Jazz, all night cocktail bars and Creole cuisine. We loved wandering its quiet side streets as well as bar hopping on Bourbon Street. 

Bourbon Street. The city’s most well known street located in the French Quarter. This street is often packed with people flaunting Mardi Gras beads, having the fortunes read and ordering to-go drinks from the colorfully lit all night bars. It gets a bit crazy but is worth visiting at least once.

Lavender Line.  Not technically a street but it encompasses a number of gay bars in the French Quarter north of Bourbon Street, many along St. Ann Street. Some of our favorites are Café Lafitte in Exile and Good Friends Bar.

The Garden District.  A residential district flanked between Magazine St. and St. Charles Ave. The neighborhood is home to historic mansions and cottages, large oak trees and leafy palms. It’s a beautiful neighborhood to explore on foot or along the St. Charles Street Car. 

Magazine Street.  One of the city’s Main Streets with restaurants, bars, boutiques, art galleries, vintage shops and creole architecture. It’s about 6 miles long, stretching from The French Quarter through The Garden District and into Uptown. Every stretch of it is well worth exploring. 

Irish Channel.  Located between Magazine Street and the Mississippi River, this cute residential neighborhood has many of our favorites restaurants, cafes and bars. There are lots of great places to stay at here. 

Freret Street. An Uptown street with restaurants, coffee shops, boutiques and bars. We happened to visit during the annual Freret Street Festival. All weekend long, local businesses set up tents and trailers serving everything from to-go drinks, barbecue, paella and tacos. 

Marigny.  This beautiful neighborhood, just outside of the French Quarter, is a charming place to walk through to look at the brightly colored Creole cottages and shotgun houses. There are also lots of great Airbnb’s here. Come for Frenchman Street, the artists markets and local restaurants. 

ByWater.  Basically an extension of Marigny, this neighborhood is a little more bohemian and hipster with flea markets, cafes, cocktail bars and funky restaurants. 

Arts/Warehouse District.  A former warehouse district converted into a hub for cocktail bars, high end restaurants and art galleries. 

Uptown.  A broad area on the Riverside of New Orleans. Visit Maple and Oak Streets for the restaurants and nightlife. Both areas are popular with Tulane and Loyola students.

Things to Do 

Have a Second Line.  Looking to celebrate like a local? Have a Second Line. It’s New Orleans traditional New Orleans parade usually used celebrate weddings or remember someone’s life. We had one during our wedding and paraded around the neighborhood near our venue leading it with the brass band, our 50+ guests and a police escort following behind. Photo credit, Brandon Xuereb at Xistence Photography

Jazz on Frenchman Street.  This is the place to be for dancing and live Jazz. There are a number of late night bars, creole restaurants and artist markets to make for a memorable night. It’s much tamer and more authentic than the famed Bourbon Street. 

Ride the St. Charles Street Car.  The street car follows St. Charles Avenue, an oak tree lined street covered in Mardi Gras beads. The street car is the perfect way to get across town while admiring the historic homes and mansions in the Garden District.

Beignets at Cafe du Monde.  Visit the original location, located in the French Market, the most famous place to order a beignet and cafe au lait. We were lucky enough to visit while a brass band was playing out front.  

  • Beignets are fried rectangular pieces of dough covered in powdered sugar. 

  • Cafe au Lait is French for coffee with milk. 

Enjoy Creole Cuisine.  A mix of West African, Indigenous American, French and Spanish flavors. Some of our favorite dishes are gumbo, catfish po’boys and charbroiled oysters. 

Order a To-Go Daiquiri.  Almost every bar on Bourbon St. offers a selection of frozen daiquiris made to go. As long as it’s in a plastic container, it’s legal to publicly drink anywhere in New Orleans.

Sunsets at Lake Pontchartrain.  Visit Breakwater Park on Lake Pontchartrain to watch the sunset. The calm shallow waters reflect every color in the sky. Afterwards, there are a number of seafood restaurants nearby to enjoy dinner.

Visit a Cemetery.  The dead in New Orleans are buried above ground in elevated plots or mausoleums because the city sits below sea level. We walked thorough the rows of St. Joseph Cemetery and Lafayette Cemetery No. 2. Both of which were open and free to tour. 

Armstrong Park.  A park on the edge of the French Quarter with walkways and bridges that meander over bayou-like waterways and ponds. Statues and sculptures of Jazz legends and musicians celebrate New Orleans’ musical culture, African heritage and Black History.

Audubon Park.  A spacious city park and green space with towering oak trees covered in Spanish moss, meandering and shaded walks ways, swan inhabited ponds and views of the Mississippi River. 

Walk Down Crescent Park.  A riverfront park located along the Mississippi with a 1.4mile path. Watch the ships pass by and sound their fog horns. Afterwards, cross the “Rusty Rainbow Bridge” into the ByWater neighborhood. 

Cross The Mississippi.  There is a ferry located along the river front at the end of Canal Street that crosses the Mississippi to Algiers Point. It’s a quiet neighborhood to enjoy a po’boy, view the skyline and walk the levy.

See Some Art

NOMA (New Orleans Museum of Art).  The museum has a great collection of Southern, French and Modern painting, historic and multi-cultural artifacts and a remarkable sculpture garden with beautifully landscaped grounds. There is also a rotating gallery, it had a LGBTQ+ photography exhibit when we visited. 

New Orleans Jazz Museum.  A museum teaching about the origin of Jazz, some of its most notable musicians and its importance in New Orleans. 

New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum.  A tiny but educational museum in the French Quarter with many voodoo artifacts and altars. It’s a great place to visit and learn more about the religion. They also offer cemetery tours and bone readings.

Go Shopping 

Frenchman Arts Bazaar.  A nightly market located on Frenchman Street where artists sell illustrations, sculptures, jewelry, decor and perform live music. 

Voodoo Authentica.  A voodoo shop with a dimly lit interior, small shrines, handmade voodoo dolls, figurines, charms, candles and incense. It’s an educational place to learn more about the modern practice of Voodoo. 

The French Market.  A market under a series of sheds in the French Quarter with food stands, to-go bars, live jazz performances, booths selling a range of items including Creole seasonings, fresh produce, Mardi Gras masks, voodoo dolls and colorful beads. Visit the original Cafe du Monde for sugary beignets. 

Get Out of the City

Outside of New Orleans, there are a number of mini excursions to go on. We booked ours with Cajun Encounters, a local tour company. 

Swamp Tours

New Orleans is surrounded by swamps that have had a large influence on they city’s architecture, industry and cuisine. They are also natural buffers that offer protection from hurricanes. We visited the Honey Island Swamp where we saw wild bores, alligators, cypress trees and Spanish moss while boating through the bayous and past swamp houses. 

Plantation Tours

Educate yourself on the history of slavery. New Orleans’ past is one we chose to learn more about while visiting. About an hour up-river are a number of plantations offering tours. We visited the Oak Alley Plantation, named for its row of 300 year old oak trees.Here, we learned about the lives of the enslaved people that were forced to labor here, the conditions they lived in and the African influences they brought with them. There is also a great restaurant here. Order a Po’boys and a flight of Mint Juleps!

Pro Tip.  Book a tour or drive here yourself. Uber and Lyft don’t drive to this area.

Taste Everything!

If you come to New Orleans for one thing, come for the cuisine! There are so many dishes and drinks unique to this city alone. These are some of favorites:

Po’Boy.  A classic Louisiana sandwich made on crispy bun with a fluffy center. It always has a protein, usually seafood, and comes “fully dressed” with lettuce, tomato, a pickle and mayo. 

Crawfish Mac n Cheese.  A Cajun classic made with crawfish tails, rich gooey cheese and macaroni noodles. 

Shrimp and Grits.  A classic breakfast dish with creamy buttery grits and tender Gulf shrimp. 

Fried Catfish.  A slightly gamey and flaky white fish. We often ordered it on a Po’boy.

Gumbo.  A traditional soup to New Orleans often eaten from October through March. It’s a savory melting pot of flavors and cultures having influences from the Indigenous Choctaw, West Africans, French and Spanish. 

Chargrilled Oysters.  Gulf Coast oysters that have been grilled with herbs and cheese.

The Holy Trinity.  A twist on the French mirepoix, made of onion, celery and bell peppers. It’s base to many dishes.

King Cake.  Traditionally served during Mardi Gras, it’s a green, yellow and purple glazed cake. 

The Sazerac.  A sipping cocktail made from whiskey, cognac and absinthe usually garnished with a lemon peel. 

The Hurricane.  A sweet, fruity, tropical rum drink served in a tall curved glass. 

Hand Grenade.  A cocktail served on Bourbon St. by a few specific bars. It’s a very sweet drink served in a tall neon green plastic container with the shape of a grenade at the bottom. Basically a hangover waiting to happen…enjoy! 

Places to Eat

Commander's Palace.  Commander’s is an unmistakable teal and white wooden restaurant located across the street from Lafayette Cemetery No. 1. It’s a family run business offering the best of high-end Creole cuisine in New Orleans. We tried the slow cooked gumbo, pecan crusted gulf fish covered in lump crab and a version of the crawfish linguini. For dessert, the bread pudding soufflé. Be sure to make a reservation and come dressed up. 

Jacques-Imos.  It’s hard to choose a favorite restaurant in New Orleans but this one is up there! Try the snail butter corn bread,Creole Bouillabaisse, Crawfish Étouffée and bread pudding. Make a reservation in advance and come ready to eat!

The Rum House.  Located on Magazine St. and a gem for á la carte tacos. We almost hired the restaurant to cater our wedding.  

Killer Po’Boys.  The best spot in the French Quarter for po’boys. In addition to the classic seafood options, they offer vegan Po’boys like roasted cauliflower, sweet potato and pb&j 

Pechê.  Recommended to us by a few locals, this restaurant in the offers Cajun and Gulf style seafood. 

Basin Sea Food & Spirits. We’ve came here multiple times for their classic southern seafood dishes including: charbroiled oysters, po’boys, fried catfish and gulf shrimp. Early on Friday nights they host lively drag shows!

Juan’s Flying Burrito. A favorite of ours on Magazine Street for Mexican food and margaritas. They blend Mexican, Creole and Native American flavors across their dishes. Try the Mardi Gras Indian and Creole tacos!

Landry’s Seafood House.  A seafood restaurant chain located throughout the Gulf Coast. We’ve dined at the Lake Pontchartrain location to watch boats sailing at the sunset. 

The Commissary Market + Kitchen.  A restaurant, bakery, butcher, bar and store shelved with miscellaneous provisions like including dried goods and homemade pickles. We’ve ordered cocktails, cookies and sandwiches.

Fat Boy Kitchen.  We came here for lobster po’ boys and steak fries the day after our wedding. The portions are huge and food is delicious! The owner even gifted us a bottle of Prosecco to celebrate.

Cafes & Coffee Shops

The Vintage.  A coffee shop with artisanal beignets by day and bar by night. We ordered a flight of three stuffed with matcha, pumpkin and raspberry for breakfast and enjoyed cocktails on their second floor balcony at night.  

Café Beignet.  A popular beignet chain. Visit the Bourbon St. location for a beignet, cup of chicory and of course live jazz. The beignets are delicious and lines are often shorter than their well known competitor, Cafe du Monde.

French Truck Coffee.  A local chain cafe with amazing coffee, biscuit sandwiches, breakfast toasts and croissants. If it’s fully brewed, try the Oji coffee. It’s Japanese method of slow brewing 1 drop at a time over 24 hours.

Bearcat Cafe.  A cafe in the middle of a residential street with breakfast and brunch options including cajun meals, vegan dishes and fresh kombucha. We ordered the blue crab omelette and vegan biscuits & gravy. Make sure to try the breakfast potatoes. 

City Donuts & Cafe.  One of the best finds in the city. Come here for a king cake donut to glazed donut breakfast sandwich! Literally egg and cheese sandwiched between two regular glazed donuts. 

Orleans Coffee Espresso Bar.  A great spot to relax with a coffee or cafe au lait. 

DeVille Coffee House & Crêperie. A restaurant serving crepes all day. We came here for brunch and dined outside right on Magazine Street.

Mojo Coffee. A cafe on Magazine Street with coffee and pastries. Try the NOLA brew, a blend of coffee and chicory.

Places to Have a Drink 

Delachaise Wine Bar.  One of our favorite spots in town. Come here for a glass of wine and to watch the St. Charles street cars pass by.

The Elysian Bar.  A former church turned into a restaurant and cocktail bar. The nave of the church is now the main dining room with multiple parlors located throughout the rectory. It’s a funky and unique experience!

Old Absinthe House.  A 200+ year old absinthe bar on Bourbon St. offering traditional absinthe drip cocktails. It stands out from the neon lit cocktail bars lining the street. The walls are covered in notes and business cards from generations of customers, 

The Pelican Club.  A creole restaurant with a quiet and semi hidden patio in a French Quarter alley. We came here for a post dinner nightcap, sitting between two potted palm trees under a string twinkling lights. 

The Sazerac Bar.  A cocktail bar with classic cocktails, most notably, the Sazerac, a cocktail invented in New Orleans and made with rye whisky, absinthe, bitters, lemon and sugar.

Salon Salon.  A cocktail bar with a glamorous and eclectic library styled interior. They have a revolving bookcase that opens up to a secret back room (we have yet to get in). 

Jewel of the South.  An inventive cocktail bar with seasonal drinks, contemporary concoctions and New Orleans classics like the French 75 and the Sazerac. Sit outside in their tropical plant courtyard. 

Café Lafitte in Exile.  Located on Bourbon Street and said to be the oldest operating gay bar in the US, dating back to the 1930s. Their cocktails bring new meaning to “gay bar strong.”

Good Friends Bar.  One of the many gay bars in the French Quarter but also one of our favorites. The 2 floor bar is a hub for the gay community, locals and tourists. 

QiQi.  A LGBTQ+ dive bar with inexpensive drinks, a laid back vibe and outdoor seating. 

Hot Tin.  A rooftop bar at the Pontchartrain Hotel with great cocktails and views of NOLA.

Getting Around 

Take the Street Car.  There are 4 lines that branch out from Canal St in the city’s center to different neighborhoods. Streetcars are the easiest and most affordable way to get around town. Download the RTA Go Mobile App to buy single ride tickets or multi-day passes.

On Foot.  Grab a to-go cocktail and start walking. The city is so photogenic and great for exploring on foot. 

Ride Shares.  Overall, New Orleans is pretty easy and affordable to get around. 

  • $10 for short distances 

  • $10-$20 to get across town 

  • $30 to/from the airport to Canal St. 

Location Specifics 

NOLA.  The unofficial name for the city, short for New Orleans, Louisiana. 

Dining Attire.  Dress casually chic to semi formal for higher end restaurants.

Riverside vs Lakeside.  Riverside refers to the south side of the city and area along the Mississippi River. Lakeside refers to the north side of the city and area along Lake Pontchartrain. 

Bourbon St. Scams.  Watch out for scam artists on Bourbon St. If any one bets they can tell you where you got your shoes…tell them you’ve got them on Bourbon St.

Places to Stay

The Pink Cottage: Steps from Parades Courtyard.  A modern version of a creole cottage, a small house with a singe room, tiny kitchen and bathroom. Book on Airbnb

Courtyard Suite on Tchoupitoulas by Convention Center.  A beautiful and large Airbnb on the ground floor of a historic home neighboring our wedding venue. Book on Airbnb.

Next Time in New Orleans… 

New Orleans holds a special place in our hearts and we will certainly be back in the future! When we return, we have ideas of what we would like to do and see next including: 

  • Celebrate the festivities during Mardi Gras and Jazz Fest

  • Tour St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 and Lafayette Cemetery No. 1 after their repairs are complete. 

  • Go sailing on Lake Pontchartrain. 

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Montgomery St. Peter Montgomery St. Peter

A Local’s Guide to New York City: Boroughs, Iconic Sights & Hidden Gems

Discover the best things to do in New York City from a local perspective, featuring iconic landmarks, local food, hidden gems and unique experiences across all five boroughs.

New York City 

New York City is an ever changing landscape of cultures, histories, movements, styles and cuisine. It is a worldly city, both glamorous and gritty filled with people from all walks of life. The city attracts dreamers and offers an endless supply of inspiration. Having lived here for 7 years, we’ve had the chance to explore and experience so much of what makes NYC unlike anywhere else. In no particular order, we’ve curated a list of sites worth visiting, hidden gems to appreciate, mouthwatering food to try and activities to do anywhere in NYC and across all 5 boroughs.  

Manhattan

Manhattan is the most iconic borough of New York City. Its towering skyscrapers, bustling avenues, historic neighborhoods, world renowned museums, famed parks and all hours of activity make it mesmerizing and energizing place to visit, live or work. 

Central Park 

Nestled within Manhattan’s grid of concrete and skyscrapers, is Central Park. The park acts as a retreat space for every New Yorker to escape the busy life of the city, spread out and re-connect with nature at all times of the year. These are our favorite reasons to visit the park: 

  • Picnic! Gather some friends, bring a blanket, drinks, snacks and have a picnic. The park is filled with all types of lawns, fields and rock formations to choose from, finding a spot is never difficult to do. A few of our favorites are Umpire Rock, Sheep Meadow and Cedar Hill.

  • The Lake.  With so many scenic spots nearby, the lake is one of our favorite areas in all of NYC. From here, you can listen to opera singers perform at Bethesda Terrace, share a kiss on the Bow Bridge, row across The Lake, sip on bubbly the Loeb Boathouse and get lost in the winding trails within The Ramble

  • The North Woods.  Located in the northwest corner of the park between 100th & 110th streets, The North Woods is a vast section of the park with old trees, rolling hills and plenty of roads and trails to hike without leaving the city. 

  • The Central Park Zoo.  A small but fun zoo to stroll through, see animals and learn about conservation. Our favorite part are the seals that frolic, splash and chase each other around in a large pool.

Grand Central Station 

An icon of NYC and well worth the visit with plenty to do and see outside of the typical commute.

  • Wander The Great Hall, admire the celestial ceiling and check time on the Connecticut Clock. 

  • Try a seafood tower, fresh oysters or whole lobster at the Oyster Bar.

  • Whisper sweet nothings in the Whispering Hall. Outside of the Oyster Bar is a vaulted ceiling with columns at each corner. Stand diagonally across from another person speaking directly into the column. You’ll hear each other’s voice carry across the noisy hall’s ceiling.

  • Drink a cocktail at The Apartment Bar, an old school NYC style speakeasy behind the restaurant on the south east corner of the great hall. 

  • Shop for produce or souvenirs at the Grand Central Market. We usually grab specialty items from here on our way home; such as spices, seafood and Murray’s Cheese.

Photograph the Empire State Building 

The Empire State Building is easily the most recognizable and iconic sight in NYC defining the skyline day and night. At night, the building is illuminated in white or themed colorful lights. Try to spot the white lights twinkling on the hour after dark. Other special times to see the building illuminated is during Pride when it’s splashed in a rainbow of light, on New Years Eve when it glitters in color or Valentines Day when it’s lit in red and has a “heart beat.”

Observatories & Lookouts 

There are several observatories at the tops of historic and super tall buildings across the city. We’ve played tourist in our own city and visited multiple of them including:

  • Empire State Building.  The most popular observatory in NYC and a must see with an outdoor deck, 360 city views and a small indoor room at the top of the spire. 

  • The Edge.  An observatory with a large outdoor terrace and panoramic views of Manhattan. There’s a champagne bar to order bubbly from and enjoy the views. 

  • World Trade Center.  The highest observatory in NYC with views of the Hudson Harbor and looking north across Manhattan. There is a cute bar with drinks and light bites 

  • Rockefeller Center.  An observatory with views looking south towards Central Park and Midtown. 

Bryant Park 

This urban oasis is magical spot to relax and admire the city. Find an open chair or green patch of grass, sit back and listen to the hum of everything happening around you. The park is a few blocks from the energy and lights in Times Square and adjacent to the quiet and calm found within main branch of the NY Public Library. Bryant Park also hosts events year round from group yoga classes, chess competitions, ping pong, square dancing and a seasonal ice rink. 

Times Square 

While most New Yorkers avoid Times Square like the plague, you have to visit at least once or pass through in route to a Broadway show. Take in the lights, giant billboards, bustling chaos and noise.

Ride the Subway 

There’s hardly anything glamorous about riding the subway but it’s part of the NYC experience. Take the trains across town, look and listen for performers and don’t be afraid to ask strangers for directions. 

Directions to Keep in Mind: 

  • Uptown = Central Park/Harlem

  • Midtown = Times Square

  • Downtown = World Trade Center

  • Most trains pass through Times Square or Grand Central. From either, you can transfer almost anywhere. 

Eat NY Style Pizza 

Grab a slice of New York style pizza. Characterized by its crispy thin crust and wide slices, it’s a staple of NYC cuisine. Look out for pizzerias with long counters lined with dozens of pizzas all sold by the slice. Many of these shops are open 24 hours and constantly crank out new pies ensuring a fresh and delicious slice at any time of day. The East Village hosts a large number of pizzerias.

The Cast Iron District 

Spend an afternoon strolling through the cobble stone streets of the Historic Cast Iron District in SoHo. Hundreds of ornately designed cast iron clad buildings define the neighborhood, many of which are now home to high end restaurants, residences, boutiques and nightlife. Our favorites streets to walk down are Green Street, Bond Street and Crosby Street.

Urban Hiking 

One of the best ways to see the NYC is on foot. We often spend our weekends walking down avenues, across bridges and through Burroughs to explore the neighborhoods, discover restaurants and see areas we would typically passby while riding the subway. Get lost wandering, as Alicia Keys said it, “these streets will make you feel brand new.”

Vesuvius Bakery

One of our favorite bakeries in the city! This SoHo bakery often lures us in with its window display made from stacks of large chocolate chip cookies. Their cookies are crispy on the edges and gooey in-the middle made from layers of thin chocolate that melt apart with each bite.

The High Line 

Walk The High Line in Chelsea and Meatpacking. It’s an old rail line turned into an elevated park surrounded by contemporary architecture. It’s beautiful year round but our favorite time to visit is during autumn. Midway through, stop by Chelsea Market and eat your way through the food stands and restaurants.

Liberty Island 

Visit Liberty Island to see one of the United States most recognizable sights, The Statue of Liberty. The island is home to a museum recounting the statue’s history, construction and renovations. Most sightseeing tours leave from Battery Park.

Governor’s Island 

An island park in the NY Harbor accessible from the ferry terminal in lower Manhattan. Come here to picnic, admire the skyline and Statue of Liberty, ride bicycles without the stress of nyc drivers, rent kayaks at Pier 101, visit Castle Williams and admire artwork at summer galleries. There are a range of seasonal restaurants to dine and relax at including:

  • Gitano Island.  A beach club style restaurant and bar with palm trees, a live DJ and tropical food and drinks.

  • Taco Vista.  A taco stand in a shipping container with a patio overlooking the Manhattan skyline. 

  • Island Oyster.  An outdoor oyster bar with an east coast vibe and skyline views. 

If you’re looking for something ritzier, buy a pass to the QC NY Spa or stay overnight at The Collective’s luxurious glamp-ground.

Roosevelt Island 

Ride the cable car connecting the Upper East Side and Roosevelt Island that runs parallel to the Queensboro Bridge. While on Roosevelt Island, visit Four Freedoms Park, appreciate the island’s Brutalist Architecture or admire the Cherry Blossoms from April to May.

Union Square Market 

Every Saturday morning, the northwest side of Union Square transforms into a large farmers market comparable to those found in the plazas of Europe. It’s one of our favorite places to shop for locally made and grown items including Brooklyn honey, cut flowers, fresh caught seafood, funky mushrooms, artisan bread, smelly cheese, NY wine, maple syrup, seasonal produce and other specialties from local and urban farmers.

Greenwich Village

A historic Manhattan neighborhood known for its narrow streets, brick town houses, high end restaurants, trendy cocktail bars and fashion boutiques. It’s a home to the lgbtq community and movement with numerous gay bars including The Stonewall Inn, Julius, Dupex, The Monster, Pieces and Playhouse. Come to any of these for drag shows and dancing.  

Little Island

A fairy tale park built on tulip shaped pre-cast concrete columns rising from the Hudson River. The park has a winding pathway that gently climbs to a high point with views of the river. It’s home to a lawn, amphitheater and stage; each host concerts, fashion shows, comedians and other performances. There is also a rotunda with concession stands and colorful dining tables.

Chinatown 

After emerging from the Canal St subway station, it’s evident you’re in Chinatown by the pagoda style architecture, strings of red lanterns, vertical Mandarin signs and vendors selling fresh produce and knock-off handbags. Sip on bubble tea from Miss Du’s Tea Shop, lick ube or black sesame ice cream from Soft Swerve Ice Cream, shop for live seafood at Aqua Best, get a massage from the Renew Day Spa, check out the exhibit at world’s smallest museum, TheMmmuseum and sing dollar karaoke songs at Winnie’s Bar. Visit during Lunar New Year and participate in the neighborhoods festivities and traditions.

Little Italy

That's Amore! Visit Little Italy for authentic homestyle Italian cuisine. While looking for a place to eat, you can expect to be invited into every restaurant on the street by their respective hosts. Come here to eat wood fired pizza at Gelso & Grand, homemade pasta at Benito One, freshly filled cannolis or gelato at Ferrara Bakery & Cafe and espresso or espresso martinis at Caffe Roma. If you happen to visit during September, go during the Feast of San Gennaro, the neighborhood’s yearly food festival and street fair. 

Lower East Side

A popular Manhattan neighborhood that feels both grungy and upscale, trendy and timeless, home to locals and welcoming of tourists. About every cuisine imaginable is just a New York minute away with decades old restaurants, corner bodegas and street cafes serving customers late into the night. It’s a trendy area for nightlife with roof top cocktail bars, late night dives, hidden speakeasies and infamous clubs lurking around every corner. 

Go on a Bagel Crawl 

The city is dotted with delis, bakeries, bodegas and food carts offering these quintessential NY breads. Order one and split it amongst friends. After your first bagel, set out for your second, third, fourth and so on…enjoying the moments in-between to walk off a few carbs and see the city. There is an abundance of bagel shops throughout the Lower East Side. If you only have one type of bagel in NYC, make sure it’s a bagel with lox (cured salmon).

See Some Art

With renowned museums and galleries, NYC is home to some of the best art and artists in the world.

  • Visit The Guggenheim and experience the museum as it was intended. Take the elevator to the top floor then walk down the spiral ramp viewing the art as you descend. 

  • Spend a day at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMa)to see modern artwork by world famous artists like Van Gogh, Picasso, Matisse, Dali, Warhol and Frida Kahlo. 

  • Tour the Egyptian Temple of Dendur, walk among the Ancient Greek sculptures and galleries of renowned artwork at The MET

  • Question the meaning behind contemporary art at The Whitney. 

  • Tour the galleries and exhibits of city’s second largest art museum, The Brooklyn Museum.

  • Go Gallery Hoppingin Chelsea on a Thursday during the open gallery night from 5-8pm. See work by new and emerging artists while enjoying free glasses of wine or beer. 

American Museum of Natural History 

An expansive natural history museum with some of the world’s most important discoveries and finds on display including full dinosaur skeletons, the oldest discovered humanoid, the world’s largest meteorite on display and thousands of preserved once living creatures from across all biological kingdoms.  

Brooklyn

Brooklyn is one of New York City’s most inviting boroughs! It’s home to historic neighborhoods with iconic brownstones, rooftops water towers, Manhattan views and vintage amusement parks. It’s urban charm, arts scene and ritzy areas are quintessential of the city’s diverse and ever changing character. 

Coney Island 

This nostalgic and eccentric place is a usual highlight of our summer. We often spend the day here riding amusement park rides, walking the boardwalk, relaxing on the beach and eating fried foods. Make sure to ride the Wonder Wheel and The Cyclone. Have a meal at Nathan’s with a Mermaid Pilsner. If you’re in NYC during mid June, make your way out to Coney Island to witness or participate in the Mermaid Parade, where thousands of people dress up as mermaids, sea creatures and in nautical costumes.  

Walk Across the Bridges 

Walk between Brooklyn and Manhattan on 3 of the city’s most iconic bridges: The Brooklyn Bridge, Manhattan Bridge and Williamsburg Bridge.

DUMBO 

Short for “Down Under Manhattan Bridge Overpass,” this Brooklyn neighborhood is once of the most iconic for its city and bridge views, rooftop water towers, cobblestone streets, red brick buildings and warehouses. Ride Jane’s Carousel, a vintage merry-go-round on the waterfront for only a few dollars. 

Admire the Brownstones

Take the subway to Brooklyn to see New York’s historic Brownstones. These architectural beauties are scattered throughout the city with large concentrations in Bed Stuy and Park Slope. Characterized by their brown stone facades, elevated stoops and narrow width, these homes exude urban charm. 

Tawk like a New Yawker 

Easily recognizable, the New York accent comes from the mix of ethnicities, social groups and cultural influences. It’s known for its combination of excitement, hand gestures, attitude, unique phrases, cursing and drawn out words. When you’re here, it’s hard not to notice and even harder not to try speaking.

Queens

Queens is the largest of New York City’s boroughs, famed for its multicultural neighborhoods, international food scene, waterfront views of midtown Manhattan and city beaches. 

Manhattanhenge 

Manhattanhenge is a rare spectacle when the sun lines up precisely with Manhattan’s east/west street grid during May - July. During this time, the sun rises and sets within the city’s canyon of buildings.

Rockaway Beach 

One of the most easily accessible beaches from NYC. The Rockaways are home to miles of mostly sandy beach and boardwalk. The boardwalk is lined with seasonal restaurants and concession stands serving everything from ceviche, pizza, burgers, arepas and ice cream. Get here by taking the East River Ferry from Wall Street or the A and S trains.

  • Rippers. Come here for burgers and beer on the boardwalk.

  • Tacoway Beach.  A seasonal surfers bar with board lockers, a large outdoor patio, strong margaritas and a range of delicious tacos. Try the black bean, cheese and sweet plantain tacos.

  • Rockaway Brewing. One of our favorite NYC breweries with a location at Rockaway Beach and in Long Island City. They have a tap room and canned beers to go. Try the Beach Cruiser Ale and Hawaiian Pizza IPA.

Jacob Riis Beach.  Our go to beach spot in the Rockaways. It gets packed but it’s one of the most diverse and lgbtq+ friendly beaches we’ve visited. We usually arrive early because it tends to get crowded by late morning.

TWA Terminal

If you find yourself at JFK, visit the TWA Terminal and Hotel. This Mid Century masterpiece is an iconic symbol of the golden age of air travel. With numerous things to keep you occupied during a layover or night’s stay, it is a destination in itself. Order a drink in Sunken Lounge or outside in The Connie, a converted airplane bar, enjoy fine dining at the Paris Cafe and watch airplanes take off from the hotel’s rooftop pool. 

Long Island City Waterfront

The LIC waterfront is one of the most photogenic locations in NYC and a popular location for sunset proposals. The park provides sweeping views of Midtown Manhattan and is a beautiful spot to watch seaplanes land in the East River. The north end is home to Gantry Park and the neon lit Pepsi Cola Sign, a favorite spot of ours to picnic during the summer. At the heart of the park is Gantry Plaza, where dozens of food trucks line up during the late afternoon though evening. Visit the beer garden at Frank Ottomanelli's for drinks, burgers and the occasional salsa night. The south end, Hunters Point, is a favorite for its winding pathways and lush gardens. The surrounding neighborhood is home to several breweries, MoMA PS1 and a variety of restaurants and cafes, especially along Vernon Blvd

Getting Here.  Both Gantry Park and Hunters Point have their own East River Ferry docks making them easily accessible. In addition, the neighborhood is only one subway station east of Grand Central via the 7 Train and one north of Brooklyn via the G Train.

Take the East River Ferry 

For an inexpensive way to see the city by water, buy a ticket and hop on the East River Ferry. Ferries operate between Manhattan, Brooklyn, Queens and The Bronx for less than $4 one way. There’s also a bar on board and an outdoor deck. It’s an easy way to enjoy the waterfront, see the skyline and get to Rockaway Beach.

Eat at an All Night Diner

NYC is known as the city that never sleeps. This couldn’t be truer than at an all night diner. Characterized by their run-on menus, cake displays and signed photos of celebrities mounted to the walls, these comforting places are waiting to welcome you at any hour of the day. 

Order Street Food 

Some of the best meals we’ve had have come from unassuming street vendors. Whether it’s tacos, falafel, kimchi, an egg and cheese or pretzels, there’s likely a street cart or food truck selling it.

The Bronx 

The Bronx is the northernmost of New York City’s five boroughs. Its home to lush green spaces, island neighborhoods and Yankee Stadium.

The Bronx Zoo & Tree Top Canopy Adventure 

An adventure park at The Bronx Zoo with zip lines, rope suspension bridges, wood plank walkways and platforms built between the canopy of trees. There are several challenge course ranging from beginner to expert with various style activities including a zip line over the Bronx river, one where you sit in a sled and another in a kayak. The zoo is home to a world of animal life including asian elephants, southern white rhinos, giraffes, gorillas, monkeys, red pandas and snow leopards.

Pro Tip. Visit in late June to collect feathers from the mating peacocks! 

City Island

An island neighborhood of the Bronx located in the Long Island Sound. There is a main street lined with lobster restaurants, boat marinas, bait and tackle shops, cute houses with wooden siding. Walk from one end to the next in less than an hour stopping for drinks at The Black Whale and lobster rolls at The City Island Lobster House

Staten Island

Staten Island is the southernmost of New York City’s five boroughs, located across the harbor from Manhattan and Brooklyn. The best way to visit is by taking The Staten Island Ferry, an iconic orange ship ferrying passengers between Staten Island and Manhattan. It’s an inexpensive way to enjoy the views of lower Manhattan, New Jersey, Brooklyn and the State of Liberty.

The Best Restaurants & Bars in NYC 

Writing about the best restaurants in NYC is a lofty under taking so we created a list with our city wide favorites, neighborhood haunts, vegan and vegetarian eateries, fine dining establishments, speakeasies and rooftop bars. View the list here, The Best Restaurants & Bars in NYC.

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Montgomery St. Peter Montgomery St. Peter

New York City Food Guide: Best Restaurants, Bars & Dining in NYC

Discover New York City's dynamic food scene through acclaimed restaurants, neighborhood favorites, rooftop bars and speakeasies curated from a local perspective.

The Best Restaurants & Bars in NYC

Writing about the best restaurants in NYC is a lofty under taking so we created this guide with our city wide favorites, go-to neighborhood haunts, recommended vegan and vegetarian eateries, places for fine dining and celebrations, speakeasies and rooftop bars. 

Long Island City Favorites 

These neighborhood favorites keep us coming back time and time again. Having lived in Long Island City for over 7 years, we’ve grown to love these neighborhood eateries. 

Tournesol

A classic French bistro where the meals and vibes are always magnifique! This neighborhood hole in the wall transports diners to Paris. The owner, chef and servers are all French expats providing an appetizing and welcoming experience. The menu consists of homestyle dishes and desserts often paired with a bottle of French wine or gin martini. As lovers of seafood, we often order staple dishes from their menu including: the moule frites, pan seared skate, seared trout or roasted hake. Some frequent specials include the poisson en papillote and bouillabaisse.

The restaurant is recognizable by its mural of a woman with a tournesol (French for sunflower) on the side of the building and a tiny red car parked out front. The dimly lit interior with white table cloths, bistro chairs, a tin ceiling and antique tiled floor provides a cozy ambiance.

Skinny’s Cantina 

One tequila. Two tequila. Three tequila. Floor! Skinny’s frozen margaritas are enough to get you buzzing or further. In addition, we regularly come here for their extremely well made fish tacos, veggie burrito and sizzling fajitas. Though more expensive than a typical tacoria, it’s worth every dollar and that’s not the tequila talking. 

Sweet Chick 

Tastes like chicken! We come here for their vegetarian chicken and waffles! A personal favorite is the spicy Nashville chicken and waffles. They also offer Southern sides like hush puppies, baked man-n-cheese, shrimp and grits. It’s a usual go to for brunch with friends! We even hosted our 40 person engagement party here in their Jazz Room. 

Slice LIC

We’re not going to be so bold as to claim it’s the best pizza in NYC but it’s surly the best pizza in Long Island City! Walk up window with a spread of NY style pizzas by the slice. We often order an assortment of slices to share including their margarita, vodka, white pie and pesto slices! 

Jora 

A Peruvian restaurant with traditional Peruvian dishes like ceviche, corn causas, arroz con mariscos and empanadas. Their Pisco bar offers Pisco forward cocktails including the classic Pisco Sour among other libations made with Peruvian ingredients. 

New York City Favorites 

New York City is a food lovers paradise with every cuisine and type of food imaginable. With over 10,000 restaurants across the city, it would be impossible to try them all but we’ve curated a list of a few of our favorites. 

Kokomo

Everyone knows a place like Kokomo! This extravagant Caribbean restaurant in the heart of Brooklyn offers tropical vibes, rum cocktails and traditional dishes from the West Indies like whole fried red snapper, vegan curries and goat stew. 

Petit Boucherie 

One of our favorite restaurants in NYC is Petit Boucherie. It’s an intimate French Restaurant in the heart of Greenwich Village with an old world ambiance. We love coming here for their traditional absinthe drip cocktails. 

The Haab 

A hole in the wall for authentic Mexican dishes. We often come for weekend brunch ordering chilaquiles, huevos rancheros and conchas. We’ve been to both locations in Sunnyside Queens and East Williamsburg. The East Williamsburg has a large vegan menu including dishes like seitan mole enchiladas, spicy tempe tacos, black bean tamales and more. 

Tea and Sympathy 

Did someone say tea time? An English style restaurant for afternoon tea complete with mismatched tea cups and a tiered tower of tea sandwiches and authentic sweets like scones, sticky toffee pudding and rhubarb crumple. With English owners and staff, this tea house feels like a piece of merry ole London in the West Village. Stop into their next door businesses, Carry On, for English teas and A Salt & Battery for fish and chips.

St. Mazie Bar & Supper Club

A genuine gem of a restaurant tucked away in Williamsburg with nightly Jazz performances. The historic and warmly lit interior provides an intimate setting for a romantic date night of evening with friends. Order a spread of snacks and appetizers for the table with a bottle of wine or absinthe cocktails.

Socarrat

One of the few paella restaurants we’ve been to that makes genuine paella! Paella is prepared in a traditional pan and scraped out of the dish by the server, revealing the crunchy rice (aka socarrat) beneath. Our personal favorite is the seafood paella made with squid ink rice, scallops, shrimp and oysters. Enjoy a carafe of red, white or rose sangria on the side. 

Fine Dining 

NYC has countless fine dining restaurants worth your top dollar. Whether celebrating a birthday, anniversary, promotion or simply having a date night, these are some of our favorites. Just make sure to secure a reservation weeks ahead of time. 

The River Cafe

An iconic restaurant on a barge below the Brooklyn Bridge with contemporary American cuisine. It is a popular location for proposals and has a very strict dress code. 

Le Coucou 

A contemporary French restaurant with a refined yet unpretentious atmosphere. The menu features dishes like rabbit, duck, lobster, sea bass and our favorite, the dover sole. A interior is illuminated with dimly lit candle style chandeliers, features an open kitchen and comfortable velvet furniture. Located in SoHo, it’s popular among celebrities and boasts a Michelin Star. 

One if Land, Two if by Sea

A romantic restaurant with fine American cuisine served in multi-course menus with changing dishes. The dim interior glimmers with the light from candle lit chandeliers reflected off the warmth of the red brick walls and American style artwork as a pianist serenades diners throughout the night. Come during the holidays for a festive ambiance when the walls are decorated in evergreen garland. 

Omakase room by Maaser

A simple 12 seat omakase room offering a 12 and 17 course tasting menus and sake pairings. The Itamae (sushi chef) will individually prepare an assortment of sea life as pieces of sushi, sashimi, nigiri and oyster at the counter. Some pieces served are raw while others are flamed and all are balanced with the perfect level of umami flavor. 

Le Crocodile

An elevated French restaurant in an upscale area of Williamsburg. It has a slightly relaxed vibe and an antiqued interior with high ceilings, brick walls, wood paneling and warm lighting. Come for the dinner service and order the mushroom pate with black truffle, summer ratatouille, almond encrusted trout and chocolate mousse. 

Marseille 

A higher end southern French restaurant specializing in Bouillabaisse, the traditional seafood stew created in Marseille, France. Come here on a romantic date night and share the Bouillabaisse between two. Sit indoors and enjoy the French styled interior with elegant decor, leather banquettes and warmly lit lighting. 

Vegan and Vegetarian Cuisine   

Restaurants across NYC cater to every palette and cuisine, as mostly plant based we’ve frequented several vegan and vegetarian restaurants over the years. These are some of the best we’ve been to.

Delice & Sarrasin 

An inventive French restaurant with vegan versions of classic French dishes like escargot, boeuf bourguignon, steak tartare, foie gras and French onion soup. Using pea protein, traditional preparations and a bit of ‘je ne sais quoi,’ the chef is able to create delectable dishes that elevate vegan cuisine. 

Ja Ja Ja Mexicana 

A restaurant with multiple locations across NYC known for their vegan Mexican dishes including tacos, quesadillas, burritos, tamales and enchiladas. For their base, each dish is made with veggies or vegan meats like chorizo, pollo, pescado and carnitas. At the bar, order from a range of mezcal and tequila forward cocktails with citric and floral notes. Each location has a colorfully tiled and textured interior with plants and wicker decor. 

Anixi 

A high end vegan restaurant with Turkish influences both in its food and interior. Try the mezze dips, pide flatbreads and vegan meats grilled on 14” swords. A palace like restaurant has tall ceilings, stone covered walls, a large fireplace, velvet curtains and crystal chandeliers. 

Bunna Cafe 

Head to Bushwick for plant based Ethiopian cuisine at Bunna Cafe. We come here for their injera and a combination of plant based dishes like cremini mushrooms, steamed collared greens, spiced and pureed chickpeas, berbere seasoned lentils, seasoned yellow lentils, vegetables with cabbage and sautéed beets

Beyond Sushi 

If you like sushi, you’ll like Beyond Sushi. This restaurant creates convincingly flavorful and artful vegan sushi rolls. Seafood is made from vegetables like marinated carrot and radish, jackfruit and mushroom. 

Vegan on the Fly

A fast food style vegan restaurant in the heart of Midtown with shaved seitan gyros, vegan drumsticks, chicken sandwiches and milkshakes. 

Speakeasies 

In a city where something new lingers around every corner, some of the best surprises remain truly hidden. A few of these hidden gems are speakeasies. Here are a few of our favorites and how to get in. 

Please Don’t Tell

The entrance is located through a phone booth inside Criff Dogs on St. Marks Place. After 6pm, enter the phone booth, pick up the receiver and dial 1. The other side of the phone booth will open leading into the bar. The bar itself is known for its mixologists, often crafting custom cocktails to your taste. 

Basement Chinatown

Located in Chinatown down a flight of stairs on Mott St is a Coca Cola refrigerator door. Behind the door is a basement bar with a subtle carnival theme, emphasized by a self serve popcorn machine.

Employees Only

The entrance, hidden behind the curtains of a fortune teller’s shop in Chelsea, leads to this classy cocktail bar. The speakeasy is known for its experimental drinks and prohibition era vibes. 

Fig. 19 

A speakeasy in the Lower East Side disguised as a white box art gallery. Once inside, behind a hidden door is a cozy cocktail lounge. Friday nights and weekends can get surprisingly busy.

Rooftop Bars 

A swanky NYC night out involves cocktails at a rooftop bar or lounge. We’ve gone to numerous across the city, each with a different vibe and unique view. Here’s a shortlist of some of our favorites.

The Broken Shaker

Located on the roof of the Freehand Hotel, this 70s style tiki themed rooftop features multiple bars, tropical drinks and tasty small plates.

Spyglass Rooftop

This intimate rooftop cocktail bar has some of the best views of the Empire State Building. As its name suggests, it even has a viewing periscope pointed directly at the building. 

The Boom Boom Room

Located at the top of the Standard Hotel, this iconic and ultra glitzy spot embodies the glamour of NYC. Come for the high end cocktails, live music and make sure to check out the restrooms.

Bookmarks

A cozy cocktail lounge with charcuterie, an outdoor patio (covered during the winter) a fireplace, velvet furniture and the smell of books.

Ophelia Lounge

A cocktail bar and restaurant at the top of the Art Deco style Beekman Tower with 360 city and East River views.

The MET Roof Garden Bar

Located on the rooftop of the MET, this seasonal bar features outdoor art installations, skyline views and overlooks the treetops of Central Park.

Other rooftop bars worth visiting are: Bar Blondeau, Westlight, RT60 Rooftop, PHD Dream Rooftop & Apotheke Nomad. 

Eclectic Bars Across the City 

There are a lot of eclectic and viby cocktail bars across the city. These are a few that we’ve found ourselves returning to when we’re in the area. 

Dutch Kills Bar

An old school cocktail bar only open after 5pm with a dimly lit interior and a wide range of spirits. Mixologists are known for inventing drinks based of your spirit and flavor preferences. 

Surf Bar

A beach like dive bar with a sand covered floor, surfboards on the ceiling, stings of colorful bulb lights and walls covered in natural decor and accessories. Come here for the tropical cocktails and tiki drinks. 

Joy Face

This is one of those funky NYC bars. It’s decorated like the 1970s complete with a disco ball, water bed and vintage furniture. After a couple of cocktails, we seemingly get lost in time. 

Analogue

Try a Manhattan in Manhattan! Mixologists stir, shake and serve up sipping cocktails made from strong spirits like whisky, scotch, bourbon, rye, gin and mezcal. This dimly lit bar has a cozy feeling with leather sofas, Edison bulbs and framed black and white photos. 

Russian Samovar 

A Russian vodka and piano bar with a range of house infused vodkas steeped with dill, cucumber, horseradish, pepper, ginger, lemon, basil and more. Our personal favorite drink is the horseradish martini. Their food menu has plenty of Eastern European classics like pierogi, cured lox and Russian salads.  

Tips for Dining Out in NYC

Reservations.  Making reservations ahead of time is necessary whenever dining out in NYC. Call the restaurant directly or book online with Open Table. Some places require a refundable deposit to hold your reservation. 

Dress Codes.  Double check restaurant websites and reviews for any dress code requirements before arriving. Generally only fine dining restaurants or exclusive bars have set dress codes.  

Tipping.  A 20% tip is standard for service across restaurants and bars in NYC. Always double check that the gratuity is not included in the final bill to avoid double tipping. 

Cash vs Card.  Most restaurants and bars accept credit and debit cards while the occasional business will be cash only. Carry cash for street food. 

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Samaná Peninsula Travel Guide: Nature, Beaches & Waterfalls

Discover the Samaná Peninsula's tropical forests, waterfalls and pristine beaches where mountainous landscapes showcase the Dominican Republic's natural beauty.

The Samaná Peninsula

The Samaná Peninsula is a remote region of the Dominican Republic with mountainous landscapes, tropical forests, dramatic waterfalls and pristine beaches. Colorful fishing boats and their captains ferry passengers between palm fringed beaches with golden sand shorelines hugged by vibrant blue waters. Marine life thrives in seagrass meadows, coral reefs and the vast Samaná Bay. Hiking trails lead through the tropical landscape to towering waterfalls while fruits like cacao, mango and banana grow wild. Dark caves feature large chambers with indigenous Taino petroglyphs and dripping stalactites. Jungleous treehouses and oceanside hotels provide tranquil accommodations for travelers. Meringue and Bachata music play loudly from roadside colmados in local parts of town. Moto bikes buzz past, sometimes with three or more passengers holding on. Dominican cuisine and tropical cocktails are served at restaurants, kiosks and beach front bars. We spent five days exploring The Samaná Peninsula, beach hopping between towns and remote corners of the region. 

Samaná

Samaná is a large town on the coast of the Samaná Bay. It’s a developing waterfront is a hub for tour operators, boutique hotels and restaurants. Boats leave from here to visit the Los Haitises National Park, Cayo Levantado and watch for whales during the migration season. 

Puente De Cayo Samana.  A pedestrian bridge leading to from Playa Cayacoa to Cayo Vigia, a small forested island in the Samaná Bay. The bridge offers beautiful views of the town’s waterfront and boat speckled harbor. Orange starfish, spotted eagle rays and schools of fish can be seen in the shallow waters beneath the bridge. 

Glamour Restaurant Snack Bar.  A kiosk specializing in Dominican cuisine set along Samaná waterfront with views of the harbor and bridge. Come here for the mixed seafood mofongo and lambi (conch) cooked in the peninsula’s famed coco sauce. 

Cayo Levantado (Bacardi Island).  An island in the Samaná Bay with a public palm lined white sand beach, various restaurant kiosks, tropical bars, souvenir shops and a luxury resort. Many tours around the Samaná Bay stop here during the afternoon for beach time and lunch. There is a small snorkeling area near the offshore rocks. The island is nicknamed after a Bacardi advertisement from the 1970s. 

Los Haitises National Park.  A vast landscape on the southern side of the Samaná Bay defined by its karst islands, mangrove forests, brackish rivers and caves systems with 600 year old Taino petroglyphs. 

Cueva de La Linea.  A large cave once home to hundreds of indigenous Taino. The cave walls are covered in illustrations and petroglyphs depicting animals, hunting scenes, dancing people and swaddled babies.  

Cueva de La Arena.  A coastal cave system with a series of sandy chambers and flooded passageways that open up to the forest and bay. 

Getting Here.  We visited both the Los Haitises National Park and Cayo Levantado on a day trip from Samaná with Coprixa Travels on Get Your Guide. The tour included water, rum cocktails and a buffet lunch on Cayo Levantado. 

Las Terrenas

Las Terrenas is a bustling beach town with lengthy golden sand beaches, boutique resorts, open air restaurants, oceanfront bars, souvenir shops and colmados. It’s popular amongst independent travelers, European expats and wealthier locals. 

Beaches in Las Terrenas

Playa Las Terrenas.  A lengthy golden sand beach with calm swimmable waters and palm lined shores. It’s one of the most easily accessible beaches in Las Terrenas yet sparely crowded making it a relaxing places to sunbathe and swim. A beachfront walkway follows the coastline leading to oceanfront restaurants and neighboring beaches. 

Playa Punta Popy.  A popular golden sand beach at the far eastern point of Playa Las Terrenas. Its shallow turquoise waters are an inviting place to cool off during the mid afternoon heat while beach vendors rent lounges and umbrellas beneath the cover of an expansive palm grove. There is an official parking lot, costing 100 Dominican Pesos for the full day. 

Playa Casa Blanca.  A sandy beach in the center of Las Terrenas with over a dozen beachfront kiosks offering Dominican cuisine and fresh caught seafood. Fishermen can frequently be seen cleaning their catch onshore while small boats and dining tables dot the sand. Sit down at Dulce Playa for the Samaná Peninsula’s famed Pescado con Coco, a whole fried red snapper covered in sauce made from coconut milk, tomato and garlic sauce. 

Good to Know.  Prices are much more affordable here than at the restaurants in town, often excluding the 18% government fee. 

Playa Cosón.  An expansive golden sand beach with a verdant palm lined shore. Its western cove is largely undeveloped, making it a popular place to swim, sunbathe, barbecue and surf. The eastern cove is largely privatized with luxury residential developments and beachfront resorts. 

  • The Cosón River.  A freshwater river that lets out at Cosón Beach, creating a large shallow pool with refreshingly cool and clear waters. It’s popular with locals and families looking to cool off from the heat. 

  • Valerio en Playa Cosón.  A beachfront restaurant at Cosón Beach serving freshly caught seafood  dishes and tropical cocktails served in pineapples. They’re cash only. 

  • Enoha Surf School.  A surf shack at Cosón Beach with board rentals and surf lessons. We missed out on the chance to surf in the leisurely waves but enjoyed watching. 

  • Beach Parking.  Free parking is available at a lot near the Enoha Surf Schooland along the sandy road between it and The Cosón River.

Snorkeling in Las Terrenas

Playa Las Ballenas.  A lengthy beach with a densely palm fringed shoreline. Beachfront kiosks rent lounges, serve island cuisine and tropical cocktails under the shade of the palms. Beneath the aquamarine waters a meadows of seagrass and large coral structures home to colorful corals, tropical fish, swaying anemones and sea urchins. 

Pro Tip.  Bring your own snorkel gear and swim out about 100 meters past the shallow seagrass meadows to reach to corals. Swim straight out at the beachfront across from the Apartamento Palmerai.

Playa El Portillo.  A golden sand beach with a palm lined shoreline. It’s one of Las Terrenas least developed and most natural beaches with offshore meadows of seagrass and lively coral gardens home to anemones, tiny fish and urchins. Come here to sunbathe, swim and snorkel.

Pro Tip.  Alternating fields of seagrass and coral structures are easily reachable from shore. Bring your own snorkel gear and swim out from the El Mosquito Beach Bar. Stick around for a rum cocktail at sunset!

Places to Eat & Drink in Las Terrenas 

Las Terrenas is the main hub on the Samaná Peninsula to dine out and drink with the largest range of local and international options. 

Totem Las Terrenas.  A beachfront restaurant with Dominican cuisine, Spanish style tapas, Italian pastas and a chalk board menu with daily specials. Come here for the dorado (mahi mahi) and mango ceviche or Masa de Cangrejo with a side of plantain tostones. 

El Loro Restaurante & Beach Bar.  A romantic beachfront restaurant with a twinkle light lit dining room placed in the sand. It’s a popular place to watch the sunset, enjoy a cocktail and savor fresh seafood dishes. Try the octopus carpaccio, seafood risotto, yuca frites and passion fruit pavlova. 

Sol y Sombra.  A restaurant in the center of Las Terrenas with a menu of European style dishes like tuna carpaccio, mahi mahi croquettes and mushroom gnocchi. Come here for a full meal to to simply enjoy a glass of wine in their atmospheric patio furnished with tropical and bohemian decor.

Chin Chin Cocktail Club.  A cocktail lounge located in an outdoor garden surrounded by fruiting cacao trees and tropical plants. Mixologists serve innovative cocktails and refined versions several classics. It’s a worth while destination located on the edge of town. 

El Limón

El Limón is a small mountain town with an energetic and local atmosphere. People gather at colmados while bachata echos aloud, farm stands display freely harvested fruits and vegetables and children swim in a river fed swimming pool. The town is located near remote beaches and the famed waterfall, Salto El Limón. 

Salto El Limón Waterfall.  A 130 foot tall waterfall in the middle of the lush and rugged tropical jungle. White water cascades down its craggily cliffside, creating strong breeze and cooling mist. An emerald pool resides at its base, enticing those looking for a refreshing swim. It’s accessible after hiking on foot or by horse back from a number of different trail heads. 

Getting Here.  The falls are reachable after a 45 minute hike down gravel roads, muddy trails, river crossings, paved paths and steep stairs.

  • Trail Head.  Start hiking from the parking lot of Entrada al Salto del Limón. A rocky road and gravel trail leads about 20 minutes through tropical jungle and farmland to the El Limón River. 

  • River Crossing.  Stop at the El Limón River to view the “Cascada Mas Pequeña”. Wade through the river to merge paths with the Sendero Rancho Español.

  • Sendero Rancho Español.  A paved trail, often traversed on horseback. It leads 20 minutes past the Cascada Pequeña to the El Limón Welcome Center.

  • El Limón Welcome Center.  Stop here to purchase wristbands (tickets) to access the waterfall. Entrance fees cost 100 Dominican Pesos (less than $2 USD). A steep staircase leads 5 minutes further to the base of the falls. 

Pro Tip.  Arrive early to avoid the crowds and experience the falls in the morning light. Begin hiking between 7-8am to arrive at Salto El Limón prior to 9am.

Cascada Pequeña.  A beautiful yet often overlooked waterfall along the Sendero Rancho Español leading to Salto El Limón. Streams of white water cascade over 30 foot drop into river pool surrounded by lush trees. 

Cascada Mas Pequeña.  Not its official name nor is it even named, this small waterfall flows over an 8ft drop along the El Limón River where the trail starting at Entrada al Salto del Limón meets the Sendero Rancho Español. 

Rancho Romana Ecolodge Park.  A secluded ecolodge built into the jungleous landscape with elegantly designed treehouses, tropical fruiting trees and early access to Salto El Limón. The ecolodge is reachable after 10 minute hike while its location in the middle of the Samaná Peninsula is 30 minutes by car from the beach towns of Samaná and Las Terrenas. Book on Airbnb

Las Galeras

Las Galeras is a small beach town on the far eastern side of the Samaná Peninsula. Restaurants, bars and colmados flank the town’s central road leading to its main beach. The town is quieter during the day but becomes very lively at night. French is commonly spoken here, influenced by French travelers and Haitian immigrants. The surrounding region is home to pristine beaches and coastal rock formations. 

Playa Rincón.  A remote beach with soft sands and a vast palm fringed shoreline that stretches for well over a mile. Colorful fishermen’s boats sit onshore while kiosks prepare the day’s catch, fresh coconuts and Dominican rum cocktails. Vendors rent beach lounges under the palms while captains offer passage to nearby beaches. The western side is the most popular while the eastern side is the most tranquil. 

Parking.  Parking at Playa Rincón is free and monitored by the local police. Officers provide a tag to place on your dashboard while entering the beach.

Caño Frío.  A shallow river with clear aquamarine waters letting out at the western side of Playa Rincón. Locals wade in the river to cool down during peak afternoon heat while children play in its shallow waters. It’s possible to walk up its sandy riverbed or paddle upstream in a canoe to see the dense mangrove forest flanking its banks. 

Playa Frille.  A picturesque beach with golden sands, bright turquoise waters and a verdant palm covered tree line.  The beach is reachable by walking or driving beyond the eastern side of Playa Rincón. 

Playa Breman.  A pristine and picturesque beach that easily ranks as one of the prettiest we’ve experienced. Palm trees reach out over its tan sand shoreline towards the vibrant blue waters and unspoiled coastline. The beach is reachable by trail from Playa Frille. It passes beneath a canopy of palm trees, muddy sections and agricultural farmland with cacao and banana trees. 

Playa del Amor.  A tiny cove with a white sand beach and calm swimmable waters. It’s reachable after hiking a hilly and forested trail from the eastern side of Playa Breman. 

Playa Colorada.  A remote golden sand beach with swimmable turquoise waters and coastal rock formations. The beach is reachable after hiking over a rugged hillside trail from Playa del Amor and following a gravel road past a series of villas towards the beach. 

Bufadora Samaná.  A roadside blow hole on coastal route 5, located about 10 minutes from Las Galeras. Ocean waves crash into the jagged cliffside, rocketing a jet of water and mist from a small opening in the rock.

La Hondonada.  A beautiful sea arch separating a flooded cove from the turbulent ocean. It’s located just past the Bufadora Samaná in route to Las Galeras. Park along the roadside of coastal route 5, walking a few minutes along a cinder block wall to reach the viewpoint. 

Bahía de Las Galeras.  A white sand beach in the town of Las Galeras. It’s a popular place to watch the sunset and hire boat captains for transportation to hard to reach beaches. Several beachfront kiosks serve tropical cocktails like piña coladas prepared in whole pineapples. 

Marakana.  An “Italian” restaurant specializing in wood fired pizzas, pastas and seafood. Order their namesake, a sauce-less pizza made with gooey mozzarella cheese and topped with sliced mozzarella, onions caramelized in red wine, seared tuna and pesto.

El Valle

El Valle is a very remote area of the Samaná Peninsula nestled within a verdant valley. The region is home to jungleous landscapes with waterfalls, treehouse hotels, a zip-line park, lengthy tan sand beach and rural community. 

Playa El Valle.  A secluded tan sand beach flanked by two lush mountainsides and karst cliffs. A series of caves and rock formations divides the beach in half where a cool stream flows forth. Sea turtles frequently nest onshore, leaving behind sandy divots where baby turtles hatched from. Fishermen boats and captains wait onshore to ferry passengers to neighboring beaches. There are a couple small campground, accommodations and kiosks lining the western side of the beach. 

Good to Know.  This is about the only place where vendors were extremely persistent, asking us to pay for parking or hire their services for tours. Simply ignore them and continue walking. 

Samaná Zipline El Valle.  A thrilling zipline park in the middle of the tropical forest with 12 lines that criss-cross the scenic valley below. A steep hike up the mountainside leads to the first platform with a 1,000 foot long zip line suspended 350 feet above the valley. It and each following line offers breathtaking views of the valley from about every angle, including glimpses of Cascada Lulu and the thatched huts of the Dominican Tree House Village. 

Good to Know.  They’re open on Wednesday to Monday from 9am to 4pm and only take cash payments. Request to book online and confirm the latest pricing before arrival. 

Bésame Mucho.  A roadside food truck specializing in baked Argentine style empanadas filled with cheese, vegetables and meats. 

Good to Know.  There is little to no cell service in El Valle. A 4x4 is required when navigating El Valle’s rough roads. 

Dominican Cuisine & Drinks 

Pescado con Coco.  A dish local to the Samaná Peninsula made with a fried, grilled or steamed fish simmered in a creamy coconut milk, tomato and garlic sauce.

Pan de Coco.  A pillowy and semi-sweet flat bread made exclusively in the Samaná Peninsula with fresh coconut milk. The bread is cooked in wood fired dutch ovens at roadside bakeries and sold by vendors across the peninsula. 

Mangú.  A green plantain and root vegetable puree commonly eaten at breakfast. The dish is often garnished with pickled or caramelized onions and paired with fried cheese, salami and eggs. 

Sancocho Dominicano.  A Caribbean style stew often cooked with a mixture of meats and vegetables like beef, pork, chicken, yuca, plantains and yautía. It’s typically meat forward but can be prepared and served vegetarian. 

AsopaoA Caribbean soup made from a tomato broth with rice and sofrito. It can be prepared with or without meat or seafood. 

Masa de Cangrejo.  A traditional Dominican dish made with stewed crab simmered in a tomato based sauce with peppers, onions, garlic and olives. 

Mofongo.  A fried green plantain mash often served with a savory tomato sauce and protein like seafood or meat. 

Tostones.  Twice fried and smashed green plantains often served as a side dish. 

Tapas.  Spanish style tapas and cuisine are immensely popular across the Dominican Republic. Common dishes include grilled octopus, paella and ceviche. 

Fruits.  Tropical and exotic fruits grow abundantly across the island. Try fresh cacao, red bananas, papaya, pineapple, coconut, passion fruit and mountain apples. 

Presidenté.  The national beer of the Dominican Republic. It comes in three varieties: original, light and black. 

Santo Libre.  A Dominican cocktail made with Sprite and amber or gold rum. It’s the Dominican Republic’s response to Cuba’s Cuba Libre cocktail. 

Mama Juana.  A popular tonic served, sold and made at home all across the Dominican Republic. It consists of rum and red wine aged in a bottle for a minimum of two weeks with a mixture of wood, bark, vines and spices. 

Location Specifics

When to Visit.  Visit during the shoulder season in May. The weather is sunny, warm and pleasant. The crowds are often small to non-existent. Some businesses may already be closed for the “off season.”

Cash vs Card.  Credit cards are widely accepted across the Samaná Peninsula however cash payments are often the only option at beach kiosks, colmados, small shops and fruit stands. Both the Dominican Peso and US Dollar are widely accepted. 

Taxes & Tipping.  There is a mandatory 18% tax on all purchases and a legally applied 10% tip at most restaurants, cafes and bars. Tipping beyond that is discretionary, anything from 5-10% more is typical for great service.
General Safety.  The Samaná Peninsula is very safe and tourist friendly. Exercise typical travel precautions and check for the lasted information with government sources. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Rights remain restricted on the national level however there is general acceptance of lesbian and gay couples. PDA is typically frowned upon. 

Dress Codes.  Unlike in Santo Domingo, there are no dress codes for dining out. Flip flops, sandals, shorts, low cut dresses and tank tops are typically allowed. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe to consume in the Samaná Peninsula. Stick to bottled water. 

Toilets.  Plumbing is fragile at most accommodations and restaurants. Toilets often require dumping water down them to flush while used toilet paper is asked to be placed in a bin. 

Getting Around 

Moto Taxis.  Moto taxis are the most popular way of getting around with in the Samaná Peninsula’s beach towns. Look for drivers with a neon vest. They’ll often ride up next to you while walking through town. Fares are often inexpensive, raging from 50-200 pesos to travel short distances. 

Boat Taxis.  The most efficient way to get from beach to beach is by hiring a boat. Captains often wait at beaches and offer tour routes for a negotiable fee. Ask around for the best pricing and negotiate. Costs range from $25-$40 USD per person for half days and $80-$100 USD for full days.

Quads & ATVs.  The narrow roads in the Samaná Peninsula’s beach towns can make driving a full sized car challenging. Most tourists often rent Quads or ATVs from in town agencies. 

Driving in the Dominican Republic 

Driving is one of the best ways to get around the Samaná Peninsula and the Dominican Republic, however it’s not for the faint of heart. While roads are generally well maintained, be prepared to aggressive drivers, speeding moto bikes, free for all parking on roadsides and pedestrians darting across streets. 

  • Car Rentals.  There are several reputable car rental agencies at the Santo Domingo International Airport including Avis, Budget and Payless. 

  • Speed Limits. Speed limits vary depending on locations. Highways are generally 80kph, rural roads are 40-60kph and inner city roads are 20-40kph. 

  • Police Stops.  Dominican police often set up speed traps on highways to ticket speeding drivers. Dominican military often set up check points to review documents. 

  • Toll Booths.  There are several toll booths between Santo Domingo and the Samaná Peninsula. Most rental cars include a pre-paid toll pass however most booths also accept Dominican Pesos. Tolls range from 100-400 pesos, adding up to about around 1,000 pesos. There are no tolls once on the Samaná Peninsula. 

  • Parking.  Free parking is allowed essentially anywhere without a “no parking” sign or yellow painted curb. There are often fake parking attendants sitting outside beach parking lots charging 100 pesos to “watch your car.” 

  • Falling Fruits.  Beware of falling fruits. Don’t park underneath coconut, papaya or cacao trees. 

  • Aggressive Drivers.  Many drivers are aggressive. They will often ride your bumper, speed past you into oncoming traffic and cut you off. 

  • Speed Bumps.  Be vigilant of steep speed bump, especially on rural and inner city roads. Cross them slowly and with caution. 

  • Rain Trenches.  Roadsides are often flanked by deep trenches to collect and quickly move water after tropical rains. 

  • Refueling.  Attendants refuel vehicles for you at gas stations. Gas is sold by the liter and priced in Dominican pesos. Most gas stations accept credit card. 

  • Offline Maps.  Download offline maps prior to driving in the Dominican Republic. Cell service often cuts out in the mountains and remote areas. 

Bonus Waterfall 

Midway along the road trip between Santo Domingo and the Samaná Peninsula is a remote waterfall, Natural Monument Salto de Socoa. The waterfall cascades over a 40 foot tall cliff into a natural swimming pool. It’s a beautiful place to come for a swim, picnic or simply to enjoy nature.

Getting Here. The waterfall is only accessible with a 4x4 vehicle. It’s located here on Google Maps. Carry Dominican Pesos for the small entrance fee. 

For Next Time… 

The Samaná Peninsula is truly a magical place with pristine beaches, lush mountainous landscapes and energetic beach towns. We plan to return and have several ideas for places to visit and things to do on our next trip. 

Whale Migration Season.  Humpback whales migrate into the Samaná Bay during February and March. Local operators offer tours to watch them breach the surface, mate and give birth. 

Whale Museum of Samana.  A small natural history museum dedicated to the Samaná Bay and its migratory humpback whales. It features a whale skeleton and Taino artifacts and carved whale bones. 

La Fàbrica Samaná Café y Cacao.  A coffee and cocoa finca with a roasting and production facility. They offer regular tours in Spanish and English.

Surfing at Cosón Beach.  The beach is sandy with a year round surf break perfect for beginners from late spring to early fall and experienced surfers from late fall to early spring. Visit Enoha Surf School for board rentals and lessons. 

Playa Fronton.  A remote cliffside beach reachable with a palm lined shore and underwater rock formations. It’s reachable on foot via a reportedly dangerous trail or safely by boat from Las Galeras. 

Hike Parque Nacional Cabo Cabron.  A remote national park with untouched forest, rugged landscapes and hiking trails. A 12.5km trail leads from the western side of Playa Rincon to a tidal rock pool at its northern tip. 

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Santo Domingo Travel Guide: Zona Colonial, History & Culture

Wander through Santo Domingo's vibrant Zona Colonial where Dominican culture, colorful plazas and centuries of Caribbean history come to life.

Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic

Santo Domingo, the bustling capital of the Dominican Republic, is a vibrant hub of Dominican culture, flavorful cuisine and rhythmic music. Its rich history and heritage is well preserved in the Zona Colonial while its Caribbean coastline adds to the warm and inviting atmosphere. 

Zona Colonial

The Zona Colonial is the historic heart of Santo Domingo and the oldest European settlement in the Americas. It’s a place where history and modern Dominican life meet. Remnants of the coral stone walls and gates frame the easily walkable neighborhood. Its brick paved streets pass colorful colonial buildings, cannon lined fortresses, centuries old cathedrals and the ruins of crumbling structures. Flowering walkways and Caribbean views show off the city’s tropical glamour. Verdant parks and lively plazas serve as gathering spaces for locals. Rhythms of Bachata and Merengue echo from homes and restaurants. Restaurants serve Dominican cuisine, coffee shops serve Dominican coffee and bars mix cocktails with Dominican rum. While the Zona Colonial can be explored in a day, it’s best to visit over multiple days to enjoy everything the city has to offer at a slower pace. 

Walk the Calles & Barrios

El Conde.  A lengthy pedestrian street brimming with restaurants, cafes, souvenir stores, art galleries, cigar shops, historic sites and street vendors. The whole length dissects the Zona Colonial, starting at Las Escalinatas del Conde and ending at Parque Independencia. 

Calle Padre Billini.  A beautiful street with historic buildings, elegant cathedrals, lush plazas and side streets lined with colorful colonial homes. The most picturesque section is between Calle Las Damas and Calle Jose Reyes. 

Cuesta de la Calle Hostos.  A hilly section of Calle Hostos with views of its colorfully painted homes and buildings near the ruins of the San Francisco Monastery and the ruins of Hospital Saint Nicholas of Bari. At the time, the street was closed for repairs making it less navigable on foot. 

Calle las Damas.  A street considered the oldest in the Americas, dating back to the city’s founding over 500 years ago. It’s flanked by stone and brick buildings and historic sites like Panteón de la Patria, Plaza María de Toledo and the Fortaleza Ozama. 

Callejón de Regina.  A residential side street with homes draped in flowering bushes, overgrown vines, potted plants and palm trees. It’s a tranquil place the visit in the early morning as the city awakens. Come here to enjoy a coffee and pastry at the Corner Cafe

Malecón.  A waterfront boulevard stretching for miles from the Zona Colonial into the city proper. It’s a popular place for its Caribbean views and coastal restaurants. 

Santa Barbará.  An Afro-Caribbean neighborhood in the Zona Colonial with colorful graffiti and murals depicting Dominican culture and indigenous Taino heritage. 

Visit the Parks and Plazas 

Parque Colon.  A historic and lively plaza in the center of the Zona Colonial. Musicians perform for tips both day and night while local guides offer walking tours of the old town. Restaurants with outdoor patios spill out onto the street lining one side while the Catedral Primada de las Américas flanks the opposite. A statue of Columbus stands at its center, surrounded by tree shaded walkways and benches. 

Plaza de Espana.  A large plaza flanked by several restaurants and cafes with outdoor patios and rooftops overlooking it. The tree lined and palm fringed plaza is home to Diego Columbus’ home, Alcázar de Colón and an impressive section of the city’s protective wall. 

Plaza María de Toledo.  A lively plaza nestled alongside the Panteón de la Patria with a brick arched fountain, parlor palm plantings and benches. Locals gather here during the evenings to enjoy a Presidente beer, paleta or slice of pizza from nearby colmados and restaurants. It’s home to a Sunday bazaar with vendors selling brass antiques, clay artifacts and paintings. 

The Old Fortress Plaza.  A historic plaza on the north end of Calle Las Damas with colonial stone buildings, a brick chapel, a cannon lined lookout and sculptural artwork. 

Parque Fray Bartolomé de las Casas.  A small park on Calle Padre Billini home to a daily market of vendors selling handmade jewelry and fresh fruit juices. 

Parque Duarte.  A historic park on Calle Padre Billini surrounded by historic colonial architecture, elegant cathedrals and some small bars. The park is named after one of the Dominican Republic’s founders, honored with a bronze statue at its center. 

Parque Montesino.  A verdant city park and recreational space on the edge of the Zona Colonial with cannon lined forts, a colorfully painted skate park and basketball courts. 

Los Tres Ojos.  A nature park inside of a partially collapsed cave system with four turquoise and  emerald lagoons. Staircases and jungleous trails lead underground to platforms overlooking the lagoons. Cave ceilings are covered in dripping stalactites, dangling vines and the occasional colony of bats. While visible from an above ground nature trail, the largest lagoon is only accessible by riding on a rope pulled ferry through one lagoon and walking through a dark cave to its observation deck. The park is reachable 15 minutes by car from the Zona Colonia.

See the Sights 

Fortaleza Ozama.  A medieval fortress built from coral stones during the 16th century to protect the colonial city from pirate attacks. A staircase leads into the levels and cells of the tower to a lookout with views of the grounds and Ozama River. Narrated animated films recount the history of the city, its population and notable figures. Its grounds sit behind an extensively cannon lined wall with support structures like a gunpowder magazine and cistern.

Puerta de Don Diego (Puerta de la Mar).  A stone gate along the colonial wall decorated in a series of Spanish military seals between the Plaza España and Batería Baja de San Diego, a section of the wall lined with cannons and guard towers. 

Ruinas Aduana Colonial.  A series of ruins on the outside of the wall near the Alcázar de Colón. A plaza encompasses excavated sites with the exposed fountains of former stone buildings. 

Puerta de la Misericordia.  A historic gate along the colonial era wall of the Zona Colonial, recognizable by its coral stone and orange tinted plaster facade. It’s revered for its importance in the battle for Dominican independence. 

Fuerte San Gil.  A small defensive fortress perched on a cliffside overlooking the Caribbean. It’s easily accessible while walking the Malecón. 

Alcázar de Colón (Fortress of Columbus).  A Spanish style castle built by Diego Columbus, the son of Christopher Columbus. It’s now a museum housing colonial era artifacts. It was closed and under renovation when we visited but visible from the Plaza España. 

Panteón de la Patria.  A stately mausoleum on Calle Las Damas entombing the remains of honored Dominicans. Visit at 8am for the daily flag raising ceremony performed by military guards. 

Hospital San Nicolás de Bari.  The crumbling brick and stone ruins of a 500+ year old colonial era hospital. It’s a picturesque sight visible from beyond its gated fence.

The Ruins of San Francisco.  The crumbling brick and stone ruins of a colonial era monastery. They can be viewed from the surrounding streets and partially explored but not entered. 

Catedral Primada de las Américas.  The first cathedral built in the Americas, dating back over 500 years. Its coral stone exterior is reminiscent of a medieval fortress with Gothic windows, large wooden doors, decorative emblems and statues. Its tall vaulted interior is lined with pews, gilded statues, small chapels and tombs. 

Iglesia Conventual de los Dominicos.  A 16th century Dominican cathedral with an ornamented entrance decorated with plasterwork, handprinted tiles, coral stone, red brick and a mustard orange painted facade. There is an unusual bronze sculpture of Jesus, only recognizable by the wounds in his feet, sleeping on a park bench. 

Iglesia de Nuestra Senora del Carmen.  A small brick and plaster church with a singular bell tower above its door. It’s located next to the Iglesia Conventual de los Dominicos. 

Catedral Castrense de Santa Bárbara.  A picturesque red brick and coral stone cathedral with colorful stained glass windows and a neo-classical style bell tower. The cathedral is surrounded by a park with bronze statues depicting Dominican life, important figures and scenes from the Bible.

Fuerte Santa Bárbara.  A cannon lined lookout platform at one corner of the city’s wall. It’s accessible from the amphitheater behind the Catedral Castrense de Santa Bárbara.

Ron Barcelo Factory Tour

Rum is a major export from the Dominican Republic with Ron Barcelo bring one of the Caribbean nation’s top producers. A factory tour is one of the best ways to learn about and taste Dominican rum!

The tour begins at the welcome center with an introduction to the history of rum making in the Dominican Republic. A guide leads through multiple warehouses lined floor to ceiling with oak barrels filled with aging rum before visiting the barrel workshop, where barrels are repaired and their interiors are flamed. The tour overlooks the production areas where barrels are filled and sealed for aging, as well as the large stainless steel tanks used for distillation and storage. A window peers into the bottling facility, where bottles are filled, labeled and boxed for distribution. The experience returns to the welcome center with a deeper dive into Ron Barceló’s history, accompanied by a house cocktail and concluding with a tasting of three different rums. Book the Ron Barcelo Anejo Experience Factory Tourwith transportation from Santo Domingo with Mama Juana Travel.

Good to Know.  The factory is located over an hour from Santo Domingo’s Zona Colonial. 

Places to Shop

Galeria Bolós.  An art gallery featuring purchasable works by Dominican artists including paintings, sculptures, objects and jewelry. We purchased a wooden sculpture of a banana bunch!

La Casa de los Dulces.  A colmado specializing in traditonal Dominican sweets made from ingredients like coconut, sugar cane, sweetened condensed milk, peanuts and tamarind. 

Amber Museum.  A museum dedicated to Dominican amber, prized for its clarity and inclusions of ancient insects. Their museum shop sells certified and genuine amber jewelry sourced from mines in the country. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Morrofino Bar de Tapas.  A Spanish style tapas restaurant with an outdoor patio overlooking the Plaza España. Come here for the most perfectly cooked seafood paellas, grilled Galician octopus and red wine sangria. 

Maraca.  An elevated Dominican restaurant specializing in tapas like tuna ceviche, breadfruit and plantain tostones, deep fried goat cheese olives and fried fish tacos. The restaurant is hidden behind a pink painted door in an art deco style building. It opens up to an extravagant interior styled with bohemian and tropical decor. 

Jalao.  An energetic restaurant in Parque Colon with Dominican cuisine and musical performances. Come here for the Sancocho, Asopao and house made Mama Juana. 

Alterno Café.  A coffee shop serving Dominican coffee and local pastries like canella (cinnamon) rolls and queso de hoja (cheese) empanadas.

Casa Barista & Co.  An elevated coffee shop with Dominican grown coffee and Dominican breakfast dishes like Arepa Dominicana made with ripe plantain and queso de hoja or Mangú, a puree made with a mixture of plantain, yautía and ñame.

Museo del Ron Dominicano.  A bar specializing in Dominican rums with craft cocktails and rum tastings. It’s housed inside of a museum space with galleries of historic rum making artifacts, rum barrels and sugar cane plantings.  

Parada 77.  A vibrant hub for nightlife, music and dancing! Come here during the late nights and on weekends for Presidente beers and a Santo Libre while listening to the Merengue and Bachata beats. 

Colmado Omar.  A traditional Dominican convenience store specializing in alcoholic beverages, particularly local beers like Presidente and rums like Barcelo and Brugal. Visit Colmado Omar I and sit at the bar counter or Colmado Omar II and join locals in the Plaza María de Toledo. 

D Comer Colonial.  An affordable buffet style restaurant specializing in Dominican and Creole cuisine. They offer freshly prepared dishes that can accommodate vegetarians, pescatarians and meat-eaters.

Republica Brewing Draft Room.  A tap room pouring a range of Dominican craft beers. Come here for a flight to taste multiple styles and flavors. Try the Mangu Sour made with tropical fruits and the Porter made with cocoa.  

Onno’s Bar.  A lively bar with a large list of classic cocktails and menu of food. It’s a chain with locations across the country. Beware of their “fake” happy hours. 

Paletas Bajo Cero.  An ice cream shop selling dozens of fruit and milk based flavors of paletas (popsicles). Try the watermelon with mint, avocado with sweet milk, coconut lemonade and tequila with red fruit. 

Yuppi.  A takeaway bar offering frozen fruit cocktails like passion fruit daiquiris, classic mojitos, strawberry margaritas and piña coladas.

Dominican Cuisine & Drinks 

Mangú.  A green plantain and root vegetable puree commonly eaten at breakfast. The dish is often garnished with pickled or caramelized onions and paired with fried cheese, salami and eggs. 

Sancocho Dominicano.  A Caribbean style stew often cooked with a mixture of meats and vegetables like beef, pork, chicken, yuca, plantains and yautía. It’s typically meat forward but can be prepared and served vegetarian. 

AsopaoA Caribbean soup made from a tomato broth with rice and sofrito. It can be prepared with or without meat or seafood. 

Pescado con Coco.  A dish local to the Samaná Peninsula made with a fried, grilled or steamed fish simmered in a creamy coconut milk, tomato and garlic sauce.

Mofongo.  A fried green plantain mash often served with a savory tomato sauce and protein like seafood or meat. 

Tostones.  Twice fried and smashed green plantains often served as a side dish. 

Tapas.  Spanish style tapas and cuisine are immensely popular across the Dominican Republic. Common dishes include grilled octopus, paella and ceviche. 

Fruits.  Tropical and exotic fruits grow abundantly across the island. Try fresh cacao, red bananas, papaya, pineapple, coconut, passion fruit and mountain apples. 

Presidenté.  The national beer of the Dominican Republic. It comes in three varieties: original, light and black. 

Santo Libre.  A Dominican cocktail made with Sprite and amber or gold rum. It’s the Dominican Republic’s response to Cuba’s Cuba Libre cocktail. 

Mama Juana.  A popular tonic served, sold and made at home all across the Dominican Republic. It consists of rum and red wine aged in a bottle for a minimum of two weeks with a mixture of wood, bark, vines and spices. 

Location Specifics

Dress Codes.  There is a strictly enforced dress code at most restaurants and bars. No flip flops, sandals, shorts, low cut dresses or tank tops are allowed. 
Cash vs Card.  Most businesses accept credit card in Santo Domingo though carrying some cash comes in handy for museum tickets and small expenses. Both the Dominican Peso and US Dollar are widely accepted. 

Taxes & Tipping.  There is a mandatory 18% tax on all purchases and a legally applied 10% tip at most restaurants, cafes and bars. Tipping beyond that is discretionary, anything from 5-10% more is typical for great service. 

Closed Days.  Many sights, restaurants and businesses are closed on Monday and Tuesday.  

General Safety.  The Zona Colonial is a safe neighborhood that only requires typical precautions. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Rights remain restricted on the national level however there is general acceptance of lesbian and gay couples. PDA is typically frowned upon. 

Getting Around.  The Zona Colonia is very walkable and best explored on foot. To get around elsewhere in the city and between the airport, use Uber

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe to consume in Santo Domingo. Stick to bottled water. 

Beaches.  There are no clean beaches in Santo Domingo. The waters near the city are heavily polluted.

Where to Stay 

Casa Santa Bárbara.  A vacation rental in the Santa Bárbara neighborhood of the Zona Colonial.  The two bedroom apartment is equipped with a full kitchen, bathroom and separate outdoor shower. It shares an outdoor courtyard and rooftop patio with the hosts. The entire home feels like an art gallery with Dominican paintings, sculptures and decor. Book on Airbnb.

For Next Time…

There were renovations being completed on multiple sites and streets during our time in Santo Domingo. When we return, we plan to re-visit them for a fuller experience. 

Museo de Las Casas Reales.  The former capital of colonial Santo Domingo converted into a museum with colonial era artifacts. 

Alcázar de Colón (Fortress of Columbus).  A Spanish style castle built by Diego Columbus, the son of Christopher Columbus. It’s now a museum housing colonial era artifacts. 

Cuesta de la Calle Hostos.  A hilly section of Calle Hostos with views of its colorfully painted homes and buildings. 

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The Ultimate Costa Rica Road Trip: Arenal, Wildlife & Beaches

Road trip across Costa Rica through lush rainforests, active volcanoes, wildlife reserves and tropical beaches from Arenal to Manuel Antonio.

Costa Rica, Nature & Biodiversity

Costa Rica is a lush and biodiverse country in Central America known for its tropical rainforests, active volcanos, nature reserves and exotic wildlife. We spent a week road tripping across the country, splitting our time equally between the Arenal Volcano in the mountains and Manuel Antonio Park on the Pacific coast.

San Jose, The Gateway to Costa Rica 

San Jose is the capital city and gateway to Costa Rica. Located in the center of the country, it’s an easy point to begin and end any roadtrip from. We flew in around midnight and spent the evening at the nearby Hotel Mango before beginning our road trip the following morning. Reserve a rental car with Sixt.

Volcán Arenal 

The Arenal Volcano is known for its symmetrical cone shape, hardened lava fields, hiking trails and large lake. We drove here from San Jose and arrived by early afternoon then hiked for about 3 hours. 

Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal

We hiked the Reserva Mirador el Silencio Loop at the Arenal 1968 Park, the site of a 1968 eruption. It connects multiple trails through lush secondary forest, hardened lava fields and dense primary forest around a lagoon. At the end of the hike is small restaurant with snacks and beverages. 

Arenal Hot Springs

The area around the Arenal Volcano has several hot springs and resorts. We visited the Ecotermales Hot Springs for a relaxing evening after our hike. The hot springs consist of several cascading thermal pools ranging in temperature from hottest at the top to coolest at the bottom. The upper pool has a steamy waterfall that feeds into lower pools. A second waterfall flows into the bottom pool with seats below it. The resort offers Costa Rican cuisine like rice & beans, yucca, fish in a coconut sauce and sweet plantains. Photo credit to Trip Advisor. 

Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park

The Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park is an eco park with 16 suspension bridges and nature trails weaving through the rain forest. The largest bridges are suspended over ravines and cut through the tree top canopy. The smallest bridges cross narrow streams and crevices. Massive trees, some hundreds of feet tall, line the trails alongside vibrant flowers and a small waterfall. The nature walk takes up to 3 hours at a leisurely pace while watching for wildlife and animals. The eco park has a restaurant overlooking the Arenal Volcano and verdant landscape. 

Pro Tips. Arrive at 8am before the large tour groups to experience the trails and bridges mostly on your own. We tickets online and ahead of time to secure the earlier time slot. Book here

Venado Caves 

The Venado Cave system is an underground network of dark chambers, flooded passageways and crystalline rock formations. Fitted with headlamps and helmets, a guide led into its depths of its main chamber and sub chambers. Book with Ecoterra Costa Rica on Viator. 

The Main Chamber.  A river leads upstream into the mouth of the cave and its main chamber. The underground river continues deeper into the cave and its numbers sub chambers. 

The Raining Room.  A narrow passageway led through an 18 inch wide crevice to the “Raining Room.” Water dripped from the ceiling and down the chamber walls as if raining underground. We shimmied and climbed 10ft vertically back into the main chamber. 

The Waterfall Room. The main chamber led to an underground waterfall with a secondary chamber hidden behind it. The room beyond is covered in a tiered flow stone comprised of sparking and rippled layers of sediment. 

The Papaya Room.  A chamber accessible by ladder from the “Waterfall Room” with a several million year old flow stone that resembles the shape of a papaya.

The Flooded Tunnel.  The sub chambers continued deeper int the cave past stalactites and stalagmites to a “Flooded Tunnel,” only large enough to crawl through with our heads above the surface of the water. 

The Indiana Jones Room.  The “Flooded Tunnel” continued into a narrow crevice only wide enough to fit through sideways. It lead to the “Indiana Jones Room,” a chamber with a rushing waterfall and round boulder suspended between two rocks. 

An Underground Ecosystem.  The cave is home to an underground ecosystem of cave dwelling creatures. Fruit and vampire bats hang from the ceilings and fluttered around its chambers. Large cave crickets, cockroaches and scorpion spiders lurk on cave walls. Catfish swim downriver and between chambers. 

Sloth’s Territory

Sloth’s Territory is a nature preserve and protected habitat where sloths freely roam. Led by a guide, we walked through the preserve’s trails spotting several sloths climbing trees, sleeping in the sun and eating leaves. We even spotted a baby sloth slowly climbing along side its mother. In addition to sloths, we spotted toucans and tiny red and blue poison dart frogs. 

Sloth Spotting Tips.  Look for trees with large 5 pointed leaves that resemble stars. These trees are tall and thin with white and brown bark. Look for dark masses sitting on tree branches. They are often sloths curled up and sleeping. 

La Fortuna 

A small town at the base of the Arenal Volcano with restaurants, hotels and souvenir shops. We stayed here while exploring the nearby sights. 

Brisas Arenal Hotel.  An eco-hotel with individual wooden cottages, nearby nature trails and views of the Arenal Volcano. The main guest house has a restaurant that delivered us fruit bowls and coffee for breakfast and a fridge to buy beers from during the evening. Book here!

Snapper.  A seafood restaurant with a tasty menu. We ordered volcano margaritas (spicy margs), seared tuna, baby shrimp arepas, a whole fried snapper, coconut seafood stew and tres leches.

On The Road

After leaving La Fortuna, we began our drive to Manuel Antonio stopping at a scenic overlook for lunch, to see a crocodile infested river and for a sunset dinner on the beach. 

La Casita del Cafe.  A roadside restaurant perched on a cliff with panoramic views of the lush and rugged mountainous landscape. We shared two common Costa Rican dishes, Sopa Negra, and Casado

Rio Tarcoles.  A river on the route to Manuel Antonio known for its massive crocodiles. We parked at a souvenir stand and walked to the bridge overlooking the river. From here we saw dozens of 12ft long crocodile swimming and resting along the islands and banks of the river.

Jaco Beach.  A beach town with a lengthly palm lined beach with a dark sandy shore, surf schools and waterfront restaurants. We enjoyed a sunset dinner at a spot called Tiki Bar. Come for the fish tacos, shrimp skewers and tropical cocktails. 

Manuel Antonio National Park

Manuel Antonio National Park is a nature preserve known for its biodiversity, rainforest, beaches, coral reefs, sloths, iguanas, spider monkeys, howler monkeys and hermit crabs. We spent an entire day in the park from opening until close hiking through the trails, visiting the beaches and spotting wildlife.

Manuel Antonio Trails

Sendero Principal.  The park’s main trail. A 2.2km path that leads from the park entrance to Manuel Antonio Beach. Many guides spot sloths from here.

Sendero Perezoso (Sloth Trail).  A 1.2 km trail that leads into the rainforest alongside Sendero Principal. It’s a good place to spot 2 and 3 toed sloths.

Sendero Punta Catedral.  A 1.4km loop along the Tómbolo land bridge leading to the Punta Catedral Point lookout. We heard and spotted several howler monkey’s here. 

Sendero Playas Gemelas (Gemelas Beach Trail).  A 1.6km trail off of Sendero Principal that leads to Gemelas Beach and the Escondido Beach lookout.

Sendero Mirador.  A 1.3km cliffside trail that leads to Escondido Beach. It is an extension of Sendero Playas Gemelas. We couldn’t finish the trail because the boardwalk was badly damaged. 

Manuel Antonio Beaches 

Espadilla Beach South.  A long bow shaped beach with a narrow shoreline in Manuel Antonio Park. It’s a continuation of the city beach. 

Manuel Antonio Beach.  The park’s main beach with a white sand shore hugging the tree line of the lush rainforest.

Playa Gemelas.  A small natural beach reachable by the Sendero Playas Gemelas. 

Hiring a Guide or Not? 

Hiring a naturalist guide guarantees you will spot a sloth in Manuel Antonio however it’s not necessary. Guides will stay along the main road because it’s easier to spot sloths and other animals from. We opted out of hiring one and walked the Sloth Trail adjacent to the main road. It’s less traveled and equally as easy to spot sloths. We created a rag-tag group with other travelers on the trail and used our combined eye sight to spot sloths, monkeys, toucans, crabs and poison dart frogs. 

Pro Tip 1.  Guides can be hired at the entrance to the park for a negotiable fee depending on the length of hire.

Pro Tip 2.  If without a guide, do not trail too closely behind them. They can get aggressive if they hear you listening in or watching sights they point out.

Pro Tip 3.  If you don’t hire a guide, being a good pair of binoculars view wildlife with.

Helpful Park Information 

Hours.  The park is open from 7am - 4pm daily (closed on Tuesday)

Tickets.  You need to book tickets online ahead of time. 

No Plastic or Food.  Single use plastic, alcohol or food is forbidden in the park, except at park restaurants.

Parking.  Arrive early and look for parking at the park entrance past all the scammers pretending to be park staff along the roadside. Parking should cost no more than 5,000 Colones. 

Espadilla Beach North

A lengthy beach extending outside of Manuel Antonio park with soft sandy shores and swimmable waters. There are nearby restaurants, beach bars, souvenir shops, surf schools and chair & umbrella rentals. Visit Aguas Azules for parasailing tours above Manuel Antonio’s deep blue bay, sandy coastline, rocky outcrops and lush jungle. 

El Santuario Canopy Adventure Tour

A semi-remote adventure park nearby Manuel Antonio. The course includes 10 zip-lines, 6 canopy bridges, 3 nature walks and 1 repelling challenge through the forest. It includes Costa Rica’s longest zip-line at 4,300 ft. We got to ride a shorter one upside down. They offer two morning tours lasting about 4 hours each. Both include a fruit breakfast and lunch. Pictures cost $20 extra. Book here!

Manuel Antonio Finca 

A town located outside of the Manuel Antonio National Park on the Pacific Coast. It’s a jungly beach town with hotels, restaurants, bars and nearby adventure activities.

Places to Eat & Drink 

El Avión.  An open air restaurant with wooden furniture built around an abandoned US military cargo plane. We ordered the crispy fried whole red snapper. 

Contra Bar.  A bar within the cargo plane at El Avión. We ordered a round of drinks and enjoyed them in the cockpit.  

Cafe Milagro.  A cafe in a tropical garden with house roasted coffee and breakfast dishes like guava and cheese crepes, banana pancakes and fresh fruit.

Restaurante Buru Seaside Manuel Antonio.  Stop here for 2 for 1 happy hour cocktails from 3-6pm and sunset views after spending the day in Manuel Antonio park.

Meduza Restaurant.  A hotel restaurant with a limited menu. We ordered and shared the seafood rice with a bottle of Imperial, Costa Rica’s most popular beer. 

Where to Stay

We stayed at Mango Moon Villa, A boutique hotel located nearby Manuel Antonio National Park. The hotel has views overlooking the Pacific Ocean. We stargazed in the evening and watched toucans and monkeys move between trees during the day. It includes restaurant and bar with breakfast and dinner service.

Costa Rican Cuisine 

When it comes to cuisine, Costa Rica is the land of tropical fruit, rice and beans. 

Tropical Fruits.  Tropical fruits are grown, sold and served across the country. Fresh papaya, watermelon, pineapple and banana are regularly served for breakfast alongside a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice.

Gallo Pinto.  A rice and bean mixture served with a slice of fried plantain, scrambled eggs, queso palmito (fried cheese) and tortilla. It’s a common breakfast dish. 

Sopa Negra.  A black bean soup with cilantro and a hard boiled egg. Typically served for lunch or dinner.

Casado.  The national dish, a plate with rice, beans, grilled veggies, pasta salad, fried fish (or any meat protein), tortilla and sweet plantain. It’s typically served for lunch or dinner.

Imperial.  Costa Rica’s national beer served almost everywhere. Order one at a bar or a bucket at the beach. 

Driving in Costa Rica

Driving in Costa Rica is very scenic and one of the best ways to explore the country. Curvy roads snake through valleys and along mountain ridges with steep sections and roadside lookouts. 

  • Visibility.  Rain and fog drastically reduces visibility the higher we drove in altitude. 

  • Road Conditions.  Main roads are well maintained while back roads were often unpaved or in need of repair. 

  • Rent a 4WD.  A 4 wheel drive is necessary to navigate the roads. 

  • Narrow Lanes.  Many roads outside of the cities are 2 lanes wide with the occasional 1 lane bridge. 

  • Traffic Jams.  Traffic within and into the San Jose was congested. 

  • Refueling.  Gas stations attendants pump gas for you. 

  • Speed Bumps.  There are speed bumps in towns often with vendors set up selling snacks, fruit and juice. 

  • Falling Fruit.  Don’t park under any fruit trees. Coconuts, papaya or other falling fruit can badly damage your car. This is often not covered by rental insurance.

For Next Time…

Costa Rica is one of the most incredible places we’ve had the pleasure to traveling to. From its bio diversity to breathtaking landscapes, it’s a destination that has left us wanting to return and explore more. When we do, some locations at the top of our list are: 

Poás Volcano National Park.  The largest and most active volcano in Costa Rica with a gaseous crater, hot springs and hiking trails. 

Guanacaste.  A Provence in the northwest of the country with surfing beaches, nature reserves, volcanoes, hot springs, waterfall and wildlife 

Refugio Nacional Gandoca-Manzanillo.  A marine reserve on the Caribbean side of the country with white sand beaches, coral reefs, mangrove forests and wetlands. 

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Montgomery St. Peter Montgomery St. Peter

Curaçao Travel Guide: Willemstad, Beaches & Island Culture

Explore Curaçao's colorful Willemstad where Dutch Caribbean culture, lively nightlife and island adventures meet aquamarine beaches and rugged coastlines.

Curaçao, The Dutch Caribbean 

Curaçao is a Dutch Caribbean Island with vibrantly painted buildings, musical nightlife, aquamarine shorelines, rugged seaside cliffs and dry forests home to many species of cacti, lizards & tropical birds. 

Willemstad 

Willemstad, the picturesque capital of Curaçao, is renowned for its colorful Dutch style architecture and vibrant charm. Its central neighborhoods, Punda, Otrobanda and Pietermaai define the city’s character, offering a mix of local culture, historic landmarks, markets, artificial beaches and boutique stays. Live music echos from restaurants and bars, creating an inviting atmosphere for both lively outings and relaxed evenings on outdoor patios.

Punda Neighborhood 

Punda is the historic center of Willemstad. It’s a mostly pedestrian neighborhood popular for its colorful colonial architecture, historic sights, local markets, souvenir shops, brand name stores, cocktail bars and restaurants with outdoor dining. 

Handelsakade.  An iconic waterfront skyline comprised of Dutch colonial buildings painted in vibrant colors with minimal ornamentation and steep tiled roofs. Shops, restaurants and bars line the street level. Visit the Iguana Cafe for a glass of wine at sunset!

Queen Emma Pontoon Bridge.  A swinging wooden pedestrian bridge that connects both sides of the St. Anna Bay. It opens several times daily to let ships pass in and out of the harbor. It’s lit up in a colorful arches reminiscent of an amusement park boardwalk at night. 

Queen Wilhelmina Park.  A plaza with public artwork, photo moments, landmark buildings and touristy restaurants serving island food and tropical cocktails. 

Punda Vibes.  A bustling festival held in Queen Wilhelmina Park with local artists, live music, street performers and a firework show. It’s held every Thursday from 6-10pm. 

De Buren.  A touristy restaurant in Queen Wilhelmina Park offering Dutch snacks like fried fish kibbling and smoked gouda bitterballen. Order a blue lagoon made from the island’s famed rum, Blue Curaçao.

Punda Markets.  Punda is home to multiple markets offering local cuisine, fresh produce and souvenirs. 

  • Plasa Bieu Market.  A food hall with several kitchens preparing traditional Curaçaoan dishes and meals. By lunchtime, the market’s colorful picnic tables are packed with locals and travelers looking for an authentic and affordable meal. The savory smells of dishes like okra soup, iguana stew, roasted goat, fried mahi mahi and sweet plantains waft through the air.   

  • Floating Market.  A waterfront market as colorful as the city’s buildings with merchants selling fresh seafood and tropical produce. Vendors historically dock along the pier and unload their goods including red snapper, pineapple, papaya, plantain, watermelon, banana, oranges, coconut, limes, hot peppers and more. 

  • The New Market.  A circular concrete pavilion with tables of vendors selling produce, spices, herbal remedies, souvenirs and clothes. 

Otrobanda Neighborhood 

Otrobanda is a historic neighborhood and Arts District with colorful buildings, large murals, alleyway exhibits, painted stairs and historical markers. It feels more local with less tourists than other areas in Willemstad while offering some of the best views of Handelsakade from the St Anna Bay.

Rif Fort.  A former colonial fort guarding the entrance to the harbor made from coral brick and stone walls. It’s been converted into a mall with boardwalks, seaside overlooks and a central courtyard with restaurants and shops. 

Curaçao Rif Mangrove Park.  A protected mangrove forest in the center of Willemstad with a floating boardwalk, a lookout tower, educational signs and kayak rentals. The park is teeming with biodiversity. We spotted eels, puffer fish, barracuda, hermit crabs, upside-down jellyfish, yellow headed parquets, butterflies and varying species of fish and birds. 

Places to Eat & Drink

  • Swinging Old Lady.  A brewery overlooking the harbor and skyline with a mix of local and imported beers. We shared a flight while watching the Queen Emma Pontoon Bridge open and close for passing ships. Try the Waka Waka, an IPA made with Curaçao orange peels. 

  • Harbor Restaurant Curaçao.  A hotel restaurant with views of the St Anna Bay and Handelsakade. Come here for classic breakfast dishes like omelettes, fresh fruit & Poffertjes (mini Dutch pancakes). 

  • Maria’s Kitchen.  A breakfast and brunch spot offering baked goofs, egg dishes and fresh juices. It’s located inside of a converted colonial home. 

Kurá Hulanda Village 

Kurá Hulanda is a semi-hidden village with in the Otrobanda neighborhood. Its cobble stone alleyways and plazas are surrounded by restored colonial buildings with colorful facades, tropical greenery, vibrant murals and Afro Caribbean statues. It’s home to locals, expats, boutique shops, hotels and restaurants. Musicians perform in outdoor patios under the soft glow of twinkle lights each night, creating a relaxing and romantic atmosphere. 

Saturday Morning Market.  Local vendors set up booths in the village’s plazas and alleyways selling crafts, handmade items, souvenirs and edible goods each Saturday morning. We bought scotch bonnet pepper chili oil and freshly made stroopwafels.

Kurá Hulanda Museum.  A history museum with exhibits about the brutality of transatlantic slave trade and the enslaved people brought to Curaçao from Western Africa. It’s an extremely well organized museum with multiple exhibits on pre-colonial African cultures, the atrocities and horrific accounts of slavery, the abolitionist and equal rights movements in the US. Exhibits include African artifacts, iron shackles, nautical maps, newspaper clippings, bills of sale from slave auctions. It’s a very sobering museum and one that can’t be overlooked. You need a minimum of 1 hour to fully explore the museum and learn about the history.

Lionfish Caribbean.  A restaurant serving dishes made from invasive lion fish, like ceviche, fish & chips and tacos. The fish and chips is served with portions of the spines and fins still attached. Uncooked spines and fins are used to create jewelry. It’s only open for lunch. 

Rustica.  An open air restaurant with delicious cocktails, fresh coconuts and a menu of dishes local to Curaçao. We shared a spread of dishes including: 

  • Baklou.  A dish made from stewed cod, polenta and sweet plantain 

  • Banana.  A mash of boiled green and sweet plantain mixed with chimichuri, coconut milk and okra 

  • Pampuna.  A pumpkin and rum raisin pancake with frozen ponche de creme  

  • Mosa Nena.  A cocktail made from rum, local tamarind and star anise

  • Krioyo Ku Orguyo. A cocktail made oregano punch with kiwi, elderflower and basil

Flores.  A restaurant with a large romantic outdoor patio. They have music until 10pm and stay open even later. Stop in for a night cap after a day of beaching and exploring the island.  

Pietermaai Neighborhood 

A neighborhood east of Punda with Dutch style row houses, vibrantly painted buildings, small shops, boutique hotels, small beachfront resorts, cafes, restaurants and bars. Come here during the evenings, especially from Thursday to Saturday for the night life and live music.

Nieuwestraat.  A street known for nightlife with live music and several restaurants and bars that seamlessly spill out onto the street. This was a favorite area to go out! 

Places to Eat & Drink 

  • Mundo Bizarro.  A bustling two floor cocktail bar with a live brass band. On Thursday nights, locals and tourists fill the bar and its ally as the band and bartenders fuel the ambiance. On Saturday night, the scene is tamer with experienced salsa dancers taking to the floor and showing off their moves.

  • Tiki Loco.  A cocktail bar located along a lively section of Nieuwestraat serving tropical drinks and island bites. Tiki torches and live music provide an ambient setting in the outdoor patio.

  • Blues Bar Restaurant.  An ocean view restaurant at Avila Beach Hotel serving Caribbean cuisine. Try the tropical tuna tartare with avocado and mango, the whole fried red snapper, conch burger, funchi fries and piña colada ice cream. 

  • Van Gogh Specialty Coffee & City Roastery.  A coffee shop in a blue painted dutch colonial house. Order the pumpkin pastechi,a pastry similar to baked empanada, oregano kombucha and house roasted coffee.

Westpunt 

Westpunt is the northwestern area of Curaçao. It’s defined by its nature including limestone cliffs, white sand beaches, turquoise waters, snorkeling spots & hiking trails.

Christoffel Mountain Trail.  A hike to the summit of Christoffel Mountain, the tallest natural point on Curaçao, standing at 1,220ft above sea level. The trail leads through dry forest past all manner of prickly and spiky bushes and cacti. Watch for wildlife like whiptail blue lizards, green parquets, orange breasted Venezuelan troupials and yellow orioles. The summit views are spectacular with sweeping views of the island’s dry forest and turquoise coastline. 

Pro Tip.  Wear proper hiking shoes. Sections of the trail are steep and eroded with jagged rocks and loose gravel. 

Good to Know.  Due to extreme heat, the trail is only accessible before 10am. Purchase tickets from the visitor center before 7am. It takes an hour to reach the summit and another hour to descend. 

Shete Boka National Park.  A coastal park where large waves crash into limestone cliffs, bays and caves. A series of nature trails leads through the park.

  • Boka Tabla.  A half submerged coastal cave where you can watch waves crash from both an observation deck above and within the cave itself.

  • Boka Kalki.  A limestone cliff and inlet where powerful waves crash dramatically, sending sprays of water through small blowholes along its eastern side.

  • Boka Pistol.  A horseshoe shaped cliff that forcefully blasts seawater back into the ocean as large waves crash against it. A nature trail leads here from Boka Kalki. 

Hato Caves.  A limestone cave with stalactites, stalagmites and 1,500 year old petroglyphs carved by indigenous peoples. The caves were used as a hideaway by enslaved people that escaped the plantations. A nature trail continues outside of the cave, passing cacti, coral cliffs and small caves with petroglyphs.

Good to Know.  The cave can only be toured with a guide. Tours leave on the hour when operating. It’s located near the airport making it easy to visit before flying out. 

Salt Lake Willibrodus.  A salt lake home to wild flamingos with a roadside observation deck. We spotted a small group over 100ft away and watch another group fly off in the distance. 

Pro Tip.  Bring binoculars or a long range lens for better views of the birds. 

Curaçao Beaches 

Most beaches are located along the south shore of Curaçao, nestled between limestone cliffs or at resorts. We visited several in Westpunt and around Willemstad. 

Playa Forti.  A cliffside beach famed for cliff jumping! The restaurant on the cliff overlooking the beach is the best location to jump. Depending on the tide, the distance is 40-45ft above the water. 

Pro Tip. To minimize the risk of injury, position yourself perfectly vertical like pencil before hitting the water!

Playa Kalki.  A narrow beach on the island’s far north shore with calm aquamarine waters ideal for swimming. Floating platforms and rentable lounges offer places to relax. There is a restaurant, bar and dive shop on the beach and small resort on the cliff above it. 

Playa Grandi.  A popular beach to snorkel with sea turtles attracted by local fishermen’s chum. Visit before 8am when it’s least busy and the water is clear. Choose a different beach to swim and lounge at. 

Grote Knip.  A popular white sand beach with clear turquoise waters perfect for swimming, snorkeling and cliff jumping from a 20 foot ledge. Vendors rent umbrellas, lounges and snorkel gear. The southern cliff is the best place to spot marine life like parrotfish, pufferfish and barracuda. Food truck vendors sell local fritters and smoothies in the parking lot.

Kleine Knip.  A quiet and smaller golden sand beach popular with locals. It’s located less than 5 minutes south of Grote Knip.

Mambo Beach.  A large artificial beach with turquoise waters, white sand shores, palm trees, chair and umbrella rentals and a multi level board walk with restaurants, bars, resorts, shops and clubs. We spent an afternoon here lounging on the beach and drinking cocktails from two of the beachfront bars, Chill Beach Bar & Grill and Hemingway. It’s located 10 minutes south of Willemstad. 

Blauwbaai (Blue Bay Beach).  An artificial beach at the Blue Bay Resort with a palm lined shore and high end beachfront restaurant, Brass Boer. There is a fee to access to beach and use its amenities. It’s located 20 minutes north of Willemstad. 

Beach Restaurants 

Jaanchie Restaurant.  A long running restaurant near Playa Grandi with traditional stewed meats like iguana, goat, beef, fish and shrimp. Stews are served with rice & beans and fried plantains. Order the oregano punch!

Restaurant Playa Forti.  A restaurant built on the site of an old Dutch fort overlooking Playa Forti. Try the grilled conch, fried plantains and veggie Keshi Yena, a local dish made with vegetables covered in a layer of cheese.

Brass Boer.  A high end restaurant at the Blue Bay Beach Resort offering a 6 course tasting menu and wine parings. Our menu included a range of vegetarian and pescatarian dishes with Dutch, Caribbean and Japanese influences. Two of our favorites were the filet of red snapper with pickled veggies and the roasted cabbage with a creamy orange sauce and crumbled pistachio. Come hungry and expect the meal to last longer than 3 hours. 

Curaçao Cuisine 

  • Stews.  Iguana, goat, beef, fish and okra stews are common local dishes.

  • Seafood.  Conch, fried red snapper, mahi mahi and garlic shrimp are all popular.

  • Pastechi.  A stuffed savory pastry similar to an Empanada made from flaky dough.

  • Funchi.  Fried corn dough similar to polenta. It’s often served like French fries.

  • Plantains.  A type of savory green banana served on its own or as an ingredient cooked into other dishes. 

  • Keshi Yena.  A dish made with a base of protein and covered in a layer of cheese. 

  • Poffertjes.  Dutch style mini pancakes often served with fruit at breakfast, 

  • Bitterballen.  Deep fried cheese balls. It’s a common Dutch pub dish or street food served on some menus. 

  • Kibbling.  Deep fried pieces of fish. It’s a common Dutch pub dish or street food served on some menus. 

  • Oregano Juice.  A herbal juice made with pressed oregano leaves. It’s herbal, semi-sweet and refreshing.

  • Brasa.  A local beer with a similar taste to Corona but slightly citric. 

  • Blue Lagoon.  A classic cocktail made with Blue Curacao, vodka and lemonade. 

Where to Stay

Kurá Hulanda Townhouse.  A one bedroom apartment in the middle of the Kurá Hulanda Village. We stayed here for 4 nights while exploring Willemstad and elsewhere across the island. Book on Airbnb.

Location Specifics

Language.  Most people speak English however Dutch and Papiamento (a creole language based on Spanish and Portuguese) are most commonly spoken. 

Cash vs Card.  Most places accept credit cards but having some cash is important. The Antillean Guilder & the US Dollar are both used on the island.

Getting Around: Willemstad is easily walkable while the best way to get around the island is by car. 

Water Shoes.  Wear water shoes at all beaches to avoid discomfort from jagged washed up coral.

Sun Protection.  Curaçao is a desert island in the tropics! Wear sunblock to avoid the harmful UV. 

For Next Time… 

Curaçao is part of the ABC island chain, including Aruba and Bonaire. We plan to visit the later to explore their beaches, marine parks and Dutch colonial buildings. 

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Cartagena Colombia Travel Guide: Walled City, Getsemaní & Local Food

Wander through Cartagena's colorful colonial streets where Caribbean culture, vibrant plazas and seaside charm make it one of Latin America's most romantic cities.

Cartagena, The Gem of the Caribbean

Cartagena is a romantic destination, often referred to as “The Gem of the Caribbean” for its seaside location, walled city and colonial architecture. The city exudes Colombian culture, history and cuisine. Start each day with a Colombian coffee, spend time wandering the streets of colorful colonial architecture, enjoy leisurely strolls along the wall at sunset, take a beach getaway to an offshore island, eat street food in the plazas and dine to live music.

The Walled City 

The old town of Cartagena is surrounded by a thick stone and coral brick wall designed to protect the city from pirates and attacks during the colonial era. It is lined with guard towers, lookouts and cannons. From inside, there are numerous ramps and staircases with access to the wall’s upper level and walkways. Along the walkways are city and sea views. Couples often come here to hideaway in the nooks, walk hand in hand and watch the sunset. 

Explore the Barrios 

Cartagena is organized by picturesque barrios with vibrant plazas, colonial buildings, cathedrals, colorfully painted homes and lush streets. 

El Centro.  The neighborhood at the center of the Walled City with many historic sights, large plazas, restaurants and hotels. The buildings here are painted golden orange or white with exposed coral bricks, wooden balconies and window banisters. 

San Diego.  The most vibrant neighborhood within the Walled City with colorfully painted buildings, lush flowering vines, streets draped in floral canopies, doors adorned with elaborate knockers and lively plazas. 

Getsemaní.  An artists neighborhood with murals, graffiti, galleries, colorful architecture and streets draped with banderas and umbrellas. There are many cafes, restaurants, bars, hostels and boutique hotels here.

Bocagrande.  A beachside neighborhood with tall skyscrapers, hotels and residential towers. Locals jokingly refer to it as Miami. Its home to Cartagena’s most popular and convenient beach, Playa Boca Grande

See the Sights 

Catedral Santa Catalina de Alejandria.  An iconic yellow and peach painted cathedral recognizable by its ornate neoclassical spire. Its located in the heart of El Centro, visible from the streets, rooftops and walls surrounding the colonial old town.

Plaza Santa Domingo.  A large plaza in El Centro with outdoor dining, street vendors selling jewelry, musicians performing, colonial architecture, the Iglesia de San Pedro Claver and a Botero sculpture of a laying naked woman. 

Iglesia de San Pedro Claver.  A church with a coral brick and stone facade built in the early 1,600s. It contains an archeological museum with the tomb of the saint, pre-Columbian, religious, African and Caribbean artifacts.

Plaza de San Diego.  A small but very lively plaza located in San Diego. It’s surrounded by restaurants that spill into the street, artists, musicians, performers and street food vendors. The plaza is recognizable by the church that resembles a large ginger bread house.

Heredia Theatre.  A colonial era theater made from pink stone and accented with yellow painted ornamentation. 

Puerta del Reloj.  The yellow clock tower and gate along the wall marking the entrance to the old town. The adjacent plaza is lined with vendors selling books, fresh juice, candy and offering tours. 

Plaza de la Aduana.  A large plaza inside the walled city accessible through the Puerta del Reloj. Its a popular place to buy fresh fruit juice and take a photo with a Palenqueras, women wearing colorful dresses and tropical fruit bowls on their head.

Centenario Park.  A park located outside the old town across from the Puerta del Reloj. Come here to spot wildlife including sloths, monkeys and parrots living in the trees. 

Pier Los Pegasos.  Located just outside the Puerto del Reloj are two Pegasus statues along the water front pier. Many boat tours to the coastal islands depart from and return here.

Plaza de Bolívar.  A lush tree covered plaza in the center of the walled city with a bronze statue of Simon Bolívar. Artists frequently sell paintings and crafts here. 

Plaza Fernandes de Madrid.  A lush plaza located between El Centro and San Diego in the walled city. It’s sounded by colorful colonial architecture, restaurants, bars and artists.

Las Bóvedas.  A series of shops built into a yellow arched section of the old town’s wall formerly used as prison cells. The vendors sell various souvenirs including baskets, hammocks, artwork, coffee, jewelry and cigars.

Calle de San Juan.  A street in Getsemani with murals and galleries selling colorful paintings depicting the walled city, Botero style artwork, portraits of Colombian women and tropical Caribbean scenes.

Plaza de la Trinidad.  A small plaza located in Getsemaní surrounded by restaurants and centered on a large golden yellow church.

Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas.  A military super fortress built during the 1600’s with maze-like tunnels, barracks, cannons, chambers and lookouts over the sea and city. The tunnels cut through different sections of the fortress and descend deep into its interior. 

Museo Naval Del Caribe.  A Caribbean and Colombian naval history museum with exhibits ranging from colonial to modern day. There are Spanish cannons, naval outfits, nautical maps, model fortresses and replica ships on display. The exhibits include interactive features like a pirate ship, submarine, battleship, speed boat and helicopter.

Museo del Oro Zenu.  A small but very well curated museum with pre-Colombia artifacts including hundreds of gold pieces, musical instruments, statuettes and pottery. The artifacts and exhibits focus on the indigenous Zenu people and their connection to the land, sea, sky and animals that inhabit them. It’s free to enter.

Las Playas 

City vs Island Beaches.  Island beaches are located off the coast of Cartagena and are often much cleaner, prettier with less aggressive vendors than the city beaches. Boats depart from Playa Boca Grande and Pier Los Pegasos between 8-11am to ferry passengers to the idyllic Rosario Islands.

Rosario Islands National Park.  An archipelago of over 30 tiny islands reachable by boat 1 hour from Cartagena. Many small hotels and resorts are located here, a convenance for overnight guests. 

Isla Grande.  A large island in the Rosario Islands National Parkwith hotels, beaches and snorkeling spots.

Bora Bora Beach Club.  A beach club on Isla Grande with a small beach, beach beds, massages, cocktails and lunch including crab and whole grilled fish. It’s a relaxing way to enjoy the Caribbean outside of the city. 

Colombian Cuisine 

Colombian Caribbean Dishes.  Popular dishes made with Colombia and Caribbean ingredients include fried fish, ceviche, coconut rice and patacones. 

  • Fried Fish.  Served whole or filleted but fried to perfection. Red Snapper and Sea Bass are commonly served

  • Colombian Ceviche. Raw seafood cooked in citrus often with coconut milk, red onion and avocado then served with plantain chips. 

  • Coconut Rice.  White or brown rice cooked with coconut milk. It’s a local side to any entree.

  • Patacones.  Fried green plantain that’s been flatten and re-fried.

Street Food.  Vendors can be found in plazas and along streets preparing and selling various types of street food across Cartagena for extremely affordable prices. 

  • Arepa de Huevo.  A masa arepa that’s been cooked, cut open, an egg cracked inside and re-fried. Watch for vendors with pots of oil sitting atop a coal burning stove. Dora’s located in Plaza San Diego is the place to go. 

  • Pan de Bono.  Watch for vendors with glass cabinets on carts filled with cheese filled breads and rolls. 

  • Fresh Juice.  Watch for vendors with citrus carts serving ladles of orange and lime juice from iced filled tanks.

  • Fresh Fruit.  Watch for vendors with wooden carts selling colorful cups of sliced pineapple, mango, water melon, papaya and whole coconuts. 

Cook like a Colombian 

Take a cooking class and learn how to cook like a Colombian. The Life of Good Hostel in Getsemaní offers classes on their roof top kitchen. Instructed by Chef Omar, we prepared multiple Colombian dishes to the tune of his Shakira playlist. Together, we sliced green plantains to make patacones, milled corn to make stuffed arepas, diced veggies to make hogao (sofrito) and sautéed shrimp in a garlic wine sauce.

Places to Eat & Drink

Cafe Del Mar.  One of two restaurants located on the wall with live music, city views and sunset overlooking the Caribbean. Come for the ceviche, causas, cocktails. 

Baluarte de San Francisco Javier.  The second of two restaurants located on the wall with live music, city views and sunset overlooking the Caribbean. Come for the Caribbean tapas and cocktails. 

Celele.  A contemporary Colombian restaurant located in a restored blue colonial home. The menu specializes in creative dishes that involve fermented ingredients, edible flowers and local seafood. Try the crab arepa, Caribbean flower salad, corn bun and squid with plantain dumplings in mussel sauce. 

Lobo de Mar.  A Colombian tapas restaurant built between two coral brick walls in a warmly lit space. Try Try the flames cheese arepa salad and seared sesame tuna on pumpkin puree.

Juan del Mar.  A higher end restaurant with an open air interior in Plaza San Diego serving elevated Colombian dishes. Visit on during a weekend for live music. 

Townhouse Rooftop.  A hotel rooftop in the middle of the old town with views of the clay tiled roofs and spires. Stop by for a cocktail at sunset.

Amasa Café.  A cafe with Colombian coffee, pastries, churro French toast, arepas and egg dishes.

Al Alma.  A breakfast or brunch spot with egg dishes, pancakes and French toast. Try the sweet corn waffles and arepa with an egg.

Coffee at Libertario.  A coffee shop in Getsemaní with well brewed Colombian coffee. Walk up and take a seat at the street front counter. 

Pan de Queso.  A small bakery in El Centro with pastries and pan de bono.

Percimon.  A paletas shop with fruit and chocolate favors and specialty toppings in Plaza San Diego. Sit on their second floor balcony overlooking the plaza. 

Location Specifics 

Language.  Spanish is widely spoken. Knowing a little Spanish goes a long way. 

Safety.  Cartagena is extremely safe. Take normal precautions. 

Alcohol.  There are no alcohol sales during elections. This is strictly enforced. 

Drugs.  People will frequently try to sell you cocaine on the street. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit card is widely accepted however carrying cash is important for purchasing street food, providing tips and small purchases. 

Tipping.  10% tipping is normal.

Getting Around

By Uber.  Ubers are available and cost around 30,000 COL between the Walled City and the airport. 

On Foot.  The walled city is extremely walkable and by far the best way to explore the city’s historic streets and wall. 

Horse Drawn Carriage.  See the walled city by horse and carriage on a romantic tour. Carriage drivers are widely available during the late afternoon through evening. Prices are fixed by the length of time. Most horses were healthy and well taken care of when we visited. 

For Next Time… 

Having visited Cartagena twice in the past few years, we’re certain to return to this charming and romantic city! For next time, we plan to island hop across the Rosario Islands. Elsewhere in Colombia, we’re have our sights on visiting Medellín and Cali. 

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Montgomery St. Peter Montgomery St. Peter

Tallinn Travel Guide: Medieval Old Town, Winter Charm & Estonian Cuisine

Step into Tallinn's walled old town where medieval towers, historic cathedrals, local artisans, Baltic culture and snowy streets create a fairytale winter setting.

Tallinn, A Medieval Capital 

Tallinn is a medieval city and the modern day capital of Estonia abundant in cultural sights, historic architecture, Baltic restaurants, cocktail bars and local artisans. 

The Old Town of Vanalinn

Surrounded by a stone wall with defensive towers and a former mote, The Old Town of Vanalinn boasts some of the most impressive medieval architecture in Europe. Within its historic walls reside former guilds, ornate buildings, towering spires and narrow passageways. By day, we climbed stone defensive towers, tried on knightly armor and learned about Estonia’s past and recent history. At night, we indulged in Estonian cuisine, discovered hidden bars and slept in a former merchant house. 

Blanketed in Snow

In mid-January, the city of Tallinn was blanketed in snow. It’s a cold and cozy time when locals sport fur hats, parents pull children on sleds, street vendors sell hot mulled wine & twinkle lights decorate the streets. It felt a lot like being in a snow globe. A feeling we fully embraced by having a snowball fight in the town square, ice skating at night and catching snowflakes on our tongues. 

Climb the Medieval Towers 

Walking along the city wall, we visited several medieval towers, admiring some from the outside and ascending to the lookouts of others. 

Viru Gate.  A pair or stone defensive towers at one entrance to of the walled city. 

Sauna, Nun’s & Golden Leg Towers.  The oldest section of the city wall with 3 towers connected by a stone and wood defensive wall. Each tower has stone spiral staircases that lead to different levels, each with windows overlooking the city.

Hellemann Tower & Wall.  A 3 floor artillery tower with a clay tile roof. A spiral staircase leads to a 200 meter long defensive wall and platform with city views.

Monks Tower.  A tower accessible from the Hellmann Tower & Wall. It has a gallery of historic city photos and a cafe on its ground floor.

Epping Tower.  A 6 floor defensive tower and medieval museum. Each floor has an exhibit with weapons like swords, crossbows and a catapult. Come to try on armor, chain mail and helmets. 

The Towers Square.  A plaza and garden outside the old town’s wall with views of several defensive towers.

Bremen Tower.  A 4 floor defensive and prison tower. It’s inaccessible but there is a passageway below it into and out of the walled city. 

Tall Hermann.  A 45 meter tall defensive tower at Toompea Castle.

See the Sights of Vanalinn 

Many of the sights within in Vanalinn are in close proximity to each other, making it easy to explore the city. 

Tallinn Town Hall Square.  A plaza at the medieval center of Tallinn surrounded by historic architecture, most notably the town hall recognizable by its towering spire. 

Toompea Hill.  The tallest natural area of Tallinn’s old town with historic sights and city views.

Patkuli&Kohtuotsa.  Two lookouts on Toompea Hill with the best views of Vanalinn, greater Tallinn and the ports.

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral.  An intricately decorated Russian orthodox cathedral on Toompea Hill with red brick, plaster ornamentation, onion domes and bell towers.

Toompea Castle.  A medieval stone castle on Toompea Hill with a pink and white neo-classical facade. It houses Estonia’s Parliament.

St Olaf’s Church.  The tallest medieval building in the old town with a 124 meter steeple. During the summer months, it’s accessible with an observation deck at its base. 

Catherine's Alley.  A medieval alley with tiled arches and a gallery of merchant tombstones dating back to the 12th century displayed on the wall. 

Danish King’s Garden.  A garden and plaza with a view of Vanalinn. It’s popular for bronze statues of 3 ominous and haunted looking monks. 

Old Town Ice Rink.  An outdoor ice rink open during the winter months with skate rentals and a cafe.

Visit the Museums

Tallinn is home to so much history and many museums. We made time to visit them and learn about the city’s history, medieval past and merchant guilds. 

Kiek in de Kök Fortification Museum.  A museum with tunnels, exhibits and multiple stone towers connected by a defensive wall with views overlooking Vanalinn. The tunnels contain artifacts and exhibits explaining their importance  throughout history from medieval times through Soviet and German occupation and independence. The towers have exhibits dedicated to their previous uses, from defending the city, to art studios and cafes.  

St. Nicholas' Church and NigulisteMuseum.  A church and museum with medieval and religious artifacts like bronze bells, tomb stones, coats of arms, silver collections and the only surviving painting depicting “The Dance of Death”. The restored spire accessible by spiral stair case and glass elevators leads to an observation deck with views of Tallinn. 

Estonian History Museum (Great Guild Hall).  A history museum located in a medieval hall with a tall vaulted ceilings and a stone arched basement. Exhibits portrays the history of Estonia, its merchants and guilds, fortifications, religious reformation, former occupation and independence. The museum houses Estonian artifacts including paintings, swords, guns, canons, armor, chests, barrels, ceramics, silver dishes and coins. 

Places to Shop

From food markets to medieval shops, Tallinn’s merchant past is equally as present today. We visited a few spots and even brought home some souvenirs. 

Easti Esindus Tallinnas Estonian House.  An Estonian handicrafts shop with items made by local artists including fur hats, wool clothing, felted accessories, amber jewelry, ceramics, soaps, iron work, wooden toys and cooking utensils. 

Baltic Amber.  Fossilized tree sap ranging in color from light yellow to deep brown. It’s a popular commodity sold at souvenir & jewelry shops throughout the city. We purchased a carved bird figurine and pair of earrings. 

Olde Hansa Shoppe.  A medieval shop connected to the Olde Hansa Restaurant selling items like hand blown glassware, hand-spun pottery, forged iron jewelry, herbal schnapps, roasted nuts, tar soaps, beeswax candles, warm spices and small swords. 

Estonian Cuisine 

Estonian food is very hardy, commonly pickled, smoked or prepared in soups. Dishes frequently include ingredients like beet, potato, onion, cabbage, mushroom, dill, buckwheat, sour cream, game meat and Baltic seafood. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Olde Hansa.  Set within a 14th century merchant house, this restaurant offers a medieval atmosphere with its candlelit interior, carved furnishings, illustrated decor, piper music and costumed staff. Its extensive menu features hearty dishes and tasting courses with smoked game, exotic meats, cured fish, braised vegetables and  herbed breads, complemented by spiced wines, flavored beers and infused schnapps. Order the forest mushroom soup, oven baked juniper cheese and the Neptune fish platter along with a goblet of herbal or cinnamon beer and caraway schnapps. The food and ambiance struck the perfect balance of theme and authenticity without being gimmicky. Most importantly, everything tasted delicious!

Draakon.  A medieval pub in a dark candle lit stone interior with a dragon sign above the door. Come here for Glog (hot spiced wine) and Estonian beer. 

Restaurant Stenhus.  A high-end Estonian restaurant located in the hotel basement of a former merchant house. The interior is defined by its stone walls, vaulted stone ceiling, black marble floor and brick fireplace. The menu delicately layers Baltic flavors paired with wine. Try the black bread with beet butter, the smoked eel smorrebrod, eggplant steak  with buckwheat cream, halibut with leek and braised pearl onions and fermented plum with sour milk ice cream.

Restaurant Odessa.  Come for Ukrainian and Eastern European classics like the vareniki (dumplings), cabbage rolls and borscht (beet soup). Try the horseradish vodka and sprat sandwich, Odessa style vareniki stuffed with flounder & parsley and cabbage rolls filled with vegetable, mushroom and rice. 

Restaurant Cru.  A contemporary Estonian restaurant. Try the beet tartare with goat cheese snow, seeded pumpkin risotto and marbled fish made from salmon, white fish and trout garnished with roe, fresh veggies and pickled root vegetables. 

Peppersack.  A medieval restaurant with plastered stone walls, candlelit tables, wooden furniture, velvet upholstery and costumed waiters. Come for a goblet of herbed beer and vegan sorrel soup made with sorrel leaves, potato, onion, carrot and dill. Add a hard boiled egg and sour cream to it for extra flavor.

Kooker Raekoja Plats.  A small street side counter serving mini grilled pancakes and hot beverages in edible cups. Try them topped with raspberry jam and sweetened condensed milk.

Saiakanig Kohvik.  A cafe with sweet and savory breakfast pastries and pies filled with cabbage and sweet cheese. 

The Babylon Bar.  A second floor speakeasy hidden behind a bookshelf. Come here for their spirt forward cocktails, art deco atmosphere and Estonian cheese plate. 

Sigmund Freud Bar.  A cocktail bar with drinks themed after different moods and emotions. Cocktails are served in funky glasses with inventive garnishes. Sit at the bar or lounge with a therapist sofa.

The Cork Bar.  A small bar in a brick and stone walled interior. It’s popular among expats and the younger crowd. Try the Estonian Coffee made with Vana Tallinn, a rum-like liquor made in Tallinn.

Balti Jaam Market.  A three floor indoor and outdoor market with vendors selling produce, seafood, meats, grains, breads, pastries, cheese, chocolates, preserves, oils and flowers, soaps, etc. There is a range of international food vendors and restaurants. We came here for breakfast, sampling Estonian pastries.

  • Kringle.  A twisted round of sweet dough with lemon and poppy seed.

  • Kaneelikuklid.  A cinnamon and cardamom roll.

Where to Stay

Merchant House. There are numerous unique stays in Vanalinn including former merchant houses, renovated defensive tower and inns. We stayed in a possibly haunted merchant house available on Airbnb with a working fireplace, tall ceilings and intricate wood floor overlaid with antique rugs. 

Getting Here

By Ferry from Helsinki. We arrived in Tallinn by ferry from Helsinki on the Tallink Line. The ferry was similar to a cruise ship with large seating areas, sleeping cabins, restaurants, bars, shops, a theater and casino games. The ship voyaged 3 hours across the icy and slushy waters of the Gulf of Finland. 

For Next Time…

Three full days in Tallinn were just enough to explore the medieval city of Vanalinn. When we return, we plan to explore more of Estonia and the neighboring Baltic countries. 

Kalamaja.  A waterfront neighborhood outside of Vanalinn with maritime museums, food halls and saunas. 

Kadriorg Park & Palace.  A vast city park built for former Russian Tsar, Peter the Great. It’s home to museums, gardens and nature trails. 

Riga.  A coastal city on the Baltic Sea and capital of Latvia. The city’s cobblestone streets are lined with historic buildings, domed cathedrals and markets. 

Vilnius Old Town.  A medieval and baroque style old town in Vilnius, the capital city of Lithuania. 

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One Day in Helsinki: Finnish Sauna & Waterfront Sights

Experience a winter day exploring Helsinki's frozen waterfront where local food markets, historic architecture and steaming saunas bring Finnish culture to life.

Helsinki, Finland

Helsinki, the capital city of Finland is known for its architecture, design and Scandinavian cuisine and Baltic saunas. We explored the city for one day while in transit from Finland to Estonia. 

See the Sights

Helsinki Cathedral.  A white neo-classical cathedral with 5 green copper domes located in Senate Square. During wintertime, the steps are covered in snow and become a sledding hill for children. 

Uspenski Cathedral.  A red brick orthodox cathedral with copper steeples and golden onion domes. It’s lavish interior is decorated in finely painted patterned and gold leafed imagery of Christian symbols.

Helsinki Harbor.  The city’s historic harbor is docked with wooden ships and ice breakers. Its home to seaside saunas, food markets and government buildings including the presidential palace and city hall. 

Market Square.  A market with vendors selling Finnish foods, Sami handicrafts and souvenirs on the Helsinki Harbor across from City Hall. We tried the Lohikeitto (salmon soup) and Glögi (mulled wine). 

Esplanadi Park.  A large city park leading from Market Square into the center of downtown Helsinki. Its lined with walkways, trees, benches and bronze statues.

Old Market Hall.  Helsinki’s oldest food market focused on Finnish cuisine with vendors selling and serving traditional dishes, pastries, seafood, meats and beer. Butchers sell sausage, smoked, canned and fresh meats like reindeer, elk, bear & sausage. Seafood vendors serve salmon soup, smoked fish, pickled herring, cold water prawns & caviar. Cafes offer lingonberry pastries, Runeberg tortes and Korvapuustit. We came here for lunch and enjoyed a Finnish feast. We tasted a blini with beluga caviar, deep fried sprats, pickled herring in mustard sauce on rye toast, skagen and a Runeberg torte.

Ateneum.  Finland’s largest art museum with a collection of Finnish and European artwork. We visited during an Impressionist exhibit featuring works by Finnish impressionists Ellen Thesleff, Tyko Sallinen, Magnus Enckell and other European artists like Monet, Pissarro and Finch.

Finnish Saunas

Saunas are a popular aspect of Finnish culture dating back hundreds of years. They’re built into homes, hotels and public pools.

Löyly Sauna.  A geometric wooden sauna overlooking the Gulf of Finland with 4 stream rooms including 1 traditional wood burning one and 3 electric ones. Outside is a large deck and cold plunge area in frozen harbor. Inside is a fireplace lounge, restaurant and bar. We tried all 4 saunas, they were hot, steamy and scented of wood. The wood burning one was our favorite with a pleasant smell of smoke. In between steamings, we relaxed by the fireplace with a beer and plunged into the icy harbor during freezing temperatures. Book a reservation in advance and bring flip flops and a swim suit. Lockers and towels are included. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Restaurant Nolla.  A contemporary Finnish restaurant with dishes made from seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. We tried the grilled burbot (a subarctic freshwater fish), fried mushrooms, braised cabbage & celeriac confit with caramelized pearl onions

Hotel Kamp Bar.  A luxury hotel lobby bar in a warmly lit and historic setting dating back to 1887. Come here for classic cocktails.

Cafe Eliel.  A well designed Finnish cafe and bar in the Central Station. We came here for breakfast on our way to the airport. Try the salmon and dill lihapiirakka. 

Where to Stay 

For our one night in Helsinki, we stayed at Bob W, a well designed and comfortable hostel in the city center with private rooms, a communal kitchen, public gym and luggage storage room. 

Location Specifics 

Language.  Finnish, Swedish and English are the most commonly spoken languages. 

Sami Culture.  Show respect to the Sami people, culture and traditions. 

Costs.  Finland, like much of Scandinavia is an expensive destination

Cash vs. Card.  Cash is rarely used across the country. Use credit or card debit card for most transactions. 

Tipping. Tipping is not expected or required. Tip 10% for exceptional service.

Temperature.  Helsinki gets very cold during the winter. The temperature dropped to -10C (14F) before windchill. Dress in warm layers and cover all exposed skin while outdoors for long periods of time.

For Next Time…

24 hours only gave us a taste of Helsinki. We plan to return to this Scandinavian city for longer on our next trip! When we do, we have a few places we plan to experience. 

Kallio and Harj.  Two indie neighborhoods located in the northeast of Helsinki. They’re home to a mix of vintage shops, numerous Finish cafes and a large food hall. 

Suomenlinna Sea Fortress.  An 18th Century maritime fortress linked across 6 islands in the harbor of Helsinki. The islands are home to parks, museums, restored ships and small number of cafes, restaurants and bars. 

Seurasaari Open-Air Museum.  An outdoor museum comprised of historic and restored Finnish buildings relocated from around the country. 

Nuuksio National Park.  A vast park just outside of Helsinki with access to primary forests and waterways. It’s a popular place to hike, canoe and camp, especially during the warmer months. 

Poovoo.  A picturesque and historic village with an old town comprised of painted wooden houses, cobblestone streets and a medieval cathedral. It’s located about an hour east of Helsinki. 

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Lapland Finland Travel Guide: Northern Lights, Sámi Culture & Arctic Adventures

Journey through Lapland's Arctic wilderness and snowy landscapes to experience Sámi traditions, husky mushing, Finnish cuisine and vivid auroras during the polar night.

Lapland & The Arctic Circle 

Lapland is the northernmost region of Finland located within the Arctic Circle and Boreal Forest. It’s defined by its frozen landscapes, snow covered forests and the northern lights. It’s a hub for winter sports, steamy saunas, Lappish cuisine and Sami culture.We visited in mid January, towards the end of Polar Night, a time when daylight is limited to a few hours and the sun never rises above the horizon. 

Inari, Lapland 

Inari is a small village on the remote shores of Lake Inari in Lapland. It’s a hub for winter activities like dog sledding, snowmobiling and cross country skiing. Several hotels, restaurants and tour operators are based in the town. Inari is a culturally important place to the indigenous Sami people, home to their parliament, museums and sacred sites. 

Holiday Village Inari.  A hotel on Lake Inari with red painted cabins, pine paneled interiors and a sauna. The cozy cabins overlooks Lake Inari and the night sky. It’s the perfect place to spot the Aurora on a clear winter evening. 

See the Sights

Siida.  A museum dedicated to the Sami people and nature of Lapland. Exhibits document the Arctic seasons, animals and landscapes through the guise of the ice ages and climate change as well as include artifacts and historical context of the Sami People. There is an open air museum within the forest behind the museum with wooden homes, saunas, and storage buildings. 

Sajos.  A contemporary wooden building home to the Sami Parliament and Council. It acts as a cultural center with Sami artifacts, library, auditorium, materials shop and cafe.

Lake Inari.  A large freshwater lake with thousands of tiny islands. It’s referred to as the Sami Sea for its importance to the Sami People. It acts as a fishing resource for trout, salmon, Arctic char, white fish and perch. Many winter activities take place on the ice including ice fishing, snowmobiling and Aurora spotting. 

Boreal Forest.  A vast pine and birch forest covering most of the Arctic. In Finland, it’s home to wildlife like reindeer, arctic rabbits and snow foxes. 

Juutua River.  The river flowing from Lake Inari through Inari. There’s a short trail along its southern bank behind Sajos. Watch for arctic hares running through the snow.

Visit Inari Tours

We booked multiple winter activities with Visit Inari Tours, including snowmobiling, husky mushing and cross country skiing. They also arrange ice fishing, reindeer feeding, snow shoeing and Aurora safaris. All winter tours include gear like boots, balaclavas, mittens, helmets and thermal overalls.

Sami Snowmobile Safari 

Suited up in a polar onesie, we mounted our snowmobile and sped off onto the frozen Lake Inari. Our guide led us between islands where we spotted groups of reindeer crossing the icy lake. We rode through wilderness trails and past pine trees drooping under the weight of fresh snow. Along the 34km route, we made stops to visit the Wilderness Church and sacred Sami islands including Ukko and Vanha Hautuumaasaari. After a few hours, we stopped at a small island with a Sami style conical hut. Within it, we ate a warm lunch of vegetable soup, rye bread and hot cider around a cozy fire. 

Wilderness Church.  A remote wooden church in the forest along the shore of Lake Inari. It’s the oldest building in Northern Finland, dating back to 1760.

Ukko Island.  An island on Lake Inari with a tall rocky point sacred to the Sami People. Offerings are made here  to Ukko, the “God of Thunder”

Vanha Hautuumaasaari.  A sacred island on Lake Inari and burial ground for the Sami People.

Husky Mushing 

Ever since our first trip to the Arctic, we’ve dreamt of going husky mushing. Lapland was the perfect place to make that dream come true. After suiting up in a polar onesie and listening to a brief lesson, we were paired with a sled of Siberian and Alaskan huskies. The pack of dogs were excited to run; howling, barking and jumping around before bolting off in unison with us behind them. We mushed our way through the Lappish countryside, past snow covered trees and fields of white along the twisting 10km trail. As we sled across the frozen landscape, ice formed on our eyelashes and hair in the subzero temperature. Half way through, we traded places, each getting a chance to drive. At the end, we got to cuddle and pet the huskies, before warming up by the fire.

Cross Country Skiing 

Cross country skiing is a Finnish pass time and national sport. We booked a 2 hour lesson and learned the basics on a groomed track in an arena. Following the tracks, we skied uphill into the wooded trails and continued to improve our form. After a couple of kilometers, we returned downhill, intermittently picking up speed and gliding along the tracks with ease.

The Northern Lights 

On night three, still overcoming jet lag, we woke up at 3am and spotted the Aurora putting on a show above our cabin. We layered up, went outside and walked towards Lake Inari, distancing ourselves from the hotel lights. It took half an hour for our eyes to adjust to the darkness.We stared upwards as ribbons of green stretched across the starry night sky, swirling and waving in brilliant formations. The Aurora would vary in strength, fading away then reappearing as fast moving bands that danced and shimmered overhead. 

Pro Tips.  It’s easier to observe the Aurora in total darkness, away from bright lights and cities. The Aurora is always fainter and less vibrant in person than in photos. 

Places to Eat

Restaurant Aanaar.  A fine dining restaurant at the Hotel Juutua. The contemporary menu is made with locally sourced ingredients true to Sami and Finnish cuisine. The dining room has a warmly lit interior overlooking the Juutuanjoki River. Order a mix of dishes like the roasted parsley roots, smoked beets, pickled white fish, fried cod tongue, charred cod cheek and cloudberry honey cake. The table next to us ordered smoked reindeer heart.

Restaurant Aurora.  A contemporary restaurant at the Visit Inari Hotel with Lappish dishes. The dining room overlooks Lake Inari and is decorated in Sami art. For dinner, try the Lake Inari white fish with dill potato purée, bourbon glazed Arctic char, lingonberry and blueberry parfait. For lunch, the Arctic pizza with cured salmon, shrimp and dill toppings.

Restaurant Ukko.  A restaurant at the Inari Wilderness Hotel with views of Lake Inari. The dining room is decorated with timber beams, wooden furniture and reindeer antler chandeliers. For dinner, try the celeriac soup with pickled apples, cloudberry cocktail, cured Arctic char and gratinated lake perch.

Saariselkä, Lapland 

Saariselkä is a winter resort village with blanketed in snow. It’s slopes and back country trails traversed by skiers, snowboarders and tobogganers. The town is located 1 hour southeast of Inari, making it the perfect place to enjoy nearby winter activities.

Saariselkä Ski & Sport Resort.  The most northern winter resort in Europe with two fells (Finnish mountains) and slopes for skiing, snowboarding & tobogganing. It’s known for its 1,200 meter Toboggan Run, the longest in Finland.

Toboggan Run.  We visited Saariselkä specifically for the toboggan run. After taking a lift to the top of the fell, we reached the run. We sat in our sleds and pushed off, quickly picking up speed as we sled straight downhill. Halfway down, the run flattened out before becoming steeper with twists and turns. It was exhilarating as we picked up speed, controlling direction of the sled by hand and slowing down by foot. Once reaching the bottom, we ran back to the lift with sled in hand ready to ride again.

Frozen Ring Ice Karting.  Exactly as it sounds, go-karting on an outdoor snow and ice track. Late in the day and with the track to ourselves, we raced each other, drifting around corners and spinning into snowbanks. In just over 15 minutes, we were able to complete 8 laps before sliding across the finish line. It cost €65 each. Though expensive, it was a one of a kind experience and well worth it. Book here!

Restaurant Pirkon Pirtti.  Come for the arctic bouillabaisse made from shrimp, arctic char, cod, mussels, sour cream and dill. We also tried the Arctic seafood platter with roasted Arctic char, pan fried Inari white fish and smoked salmon. For desert, the cloud berry parfait with “Aurora sauce.” It has a wooden interior with a stone fireplace. 

Pub Panimo.  A pub with a selection of Finnish and foreign beers in cozy beer hall with wooden tables, a stone fireplace and musician stage.

Lappish Cuisine 

Cuisine in Lapland is heavily based off of local, wild and foraged ingredients. Food is one of the best ways to experience Lapland.

Root Vegetables.  Celeriac, parsley root, beets, potatoes and carrots are commonly used in Lappish cuisine, often severed roasted, pickled, puréed or in soups

Berries.  Popular throughout Lapland. Berries are often foraged. Try them fresh or jammed. 

  • Cloudberries.  Orange berries of clustered round nodules that resemble clouds. Their taste is entirely unique but has notes of peach and nectarine.

  • Lingonberries.  Little red berries that have a sweet & tart taste., similar to a cross between cranberry and pomegranate.

  • Blueberries.  Smaller and sweeter than US blueberries. 

Wild Mushrooms.  Foraged and prepared in various dishes, sauces or pickled. Trumpet Chanterelle is one of the most common.

Freshwater Fish.  Whitefish, salmon, arctic char and perch are commonly caught in Lake Inari. They’re often served grilled, smoked or pickled and served with dill. 

Reindeer.  Though we didn’t try it, reindeer is regularly served in various forms at restaurants & sold at markets across the country.

Skagen.  Cold water prawn salad. It consists of prawn mixed with mayo, sour cream or mustard and garnished with dill and fish roe often served on rye bread. 

Lihapiirakka.  A traditional Finnish pie typically made with savory ingredients like meat, rice, onion and herbs wrapped in puffy pie dough. 

Rye Bread.  Flat round discs of rye bread. They’re common at breakfast with butter and cheese or as a base for open faced sandwiches. 

Korvapuustit.  A pasty made from sweet dough rolled with cinnamon and cardamom.

Karelian Pie.  A ovular open faced rye crust pie with crimped edges and filled with porridge. Try it with jam or yogurt. 

Runeberg Torte.  A small cylindrical almond and rum cake with a raspberry jam and icing ring topping. It’s named after a Finnish writer and often served in January.

Beers.  Lagers & pale ales are very popular in Lapland. 

  • Lapin Kulta,  A light beer made in Lapland also called Lapin Gold

  • Saana,  A Laplan brewed pale ale. 

  • Karhu,  A lager with a bear logo.

  • Karjala,  A slightly hoppy lager. 

Glögi.  Spiced hot wine.

Location Specifics 

Language.  Finnish, Swedish and English are the most commonly spoken languages. 

Sami Culture.  Show respect to the Sami people, culture and traditions. 

Costs.  Finland, like much of Scandinavia is an expensive destination

Cash vs. Card.  Cash is rarely used across the country. Use credit or card debit card for most transactions. 

Tipping. Tipping is not expected or required. Tip 10% for exceptional service.

Temperature.  Lapland gets very cold during the winter. The temperature dropped to -28C (-18F) before windchill one night. Dress in several warm layers, cover all exposed skin, use hand and toe warmers.

Driving.  Driving is easy during the winter. The roads are regularly plowed. All rental cars are equipped with snow tires. Rent a car at the Ivalo airport from Green Motion

For Next Time…

We’ve developed a love of Scandinavia and hope to return to Finland one day! When we do, we plan to visit the village of Rovaniemi during Christmas and return to Lapland during the late summer when the berries bloom and the sun doesn’t set. 

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Copenhagen Travel Guide: Nyhavn, Christmas Markets & Scandinavian Cuisine

Wander along Copenhagen's colorful canals where wooden ships, historic castles and Danish culture meet Scandinavian cuisine and festive Christmas markets.

Copenhagen, A Scandinavian City

Copenhagen is consistently ranked as one of the happiest places in the world. The Scandinavian city is home to boat lined canals, cobblestone streets and colorful buildings, centuries old castles and seat to the Danish monarchy. It’s a hub for design, contemporary European cuisine and seasonal Christmas markets. The city tells a rich history through its many museums, historic architecture and canals. 

Copenhagen’sCanals & Neighborhoods

The Nyhavn Canal.  A picturesque 17th century canal with historic colorful buildings, old wooden ships, cafes, bars and restaurants, some of which are located on the old wooden ships. Strømma Canal Tours depart from here every hour, leading past many bridges and sights along Copenhagen’s Grand Canal, The Christianshavns Canal and Frederiksholms Canals. 

The Frederiksholms Canal.  A canal lined with all types of vessels including fishing boats, floating restaurants, a light house ship and multitudes of house boats. We spent our stay in Copenhagen, docked along the canal in a cozy wooden ship. The cabin included a bed at the bow of the boat, open kitchen and living area with port holes overlooking the water. Book on Airbnb.

Indre By.  A large neighborhood at Copenhagen’s city center with canals and roads lined with historic buildings, national monuments, plazas and shopping streets. 

Slotsholmen.  An island neighborhood surrounded by the Frederiksholms Canal. The island was once the seat of the Danish monarchy and is the present home of parliament, the prime minister’s office, multiple museums, public squares and stately buildings. 

Christmas in Copenhagen 

Copenhagen’s Christmas festivities are in full swing by late November! The city is illuminated in twinkle lights, pine trees stand tall in public plazas, buildings are decorated with garland and Christmas markets lure people in with their holiday cheer. 

Christmas Markets 

The city center is home to at least three Christmas Markets. Each one is very similar in style with decorated wooden stalls selling gifts and traditional Christmas market food and beverages.

  • Julemarked Kongens Nytorv. The largest Christmas market lining the perimeter of King’s New Square and stretching towards the beginning of the Nyhavn Canal.

  • Julemarked Højbro Plads.The second largest Christmas market located in High Bridge Square between the Frederiksholms Canal and Strøget.

  • Julemarked HC Andersen.The smallest Christmas market located in Nytorv Square.

Christmas Market Food

Some of the classic Christmas Market food and beverages are: 

  • Gløgg.  Hot wine mulled with spices, raisins and toasted almonds. 

  • Lumumba.  Hot chocolate with rum or amaretto and marshmallow or whipped cream on top. 

  • Æbleskiver.  Fried fluffy balls of dough with jam and powdered sugar. 

  • Brændte Mandler.  Roasted candied almonds. Their irresistible scent fills the air. 

  • Pølser.  Long thin sausages cooked over a bed of coals, placed between two halves of a bun and garnished with sauces, onions and pickles. 

  • Fish & Chips.  Deep fried cod with French fries. 

  • Roasted Chestnuts.  Warm, buttery, soft and starchy nuts. 

Visit Tivoli Gardens 

A romantic 19th century theme park with rides, restaurants and gardens.The park has classic rides like a ferris wheel and carousel, two small but nonetheless thrilling roller coasters and a wide range of other rides and games. There is no shortage of places to eat with sit down style restaurants, a food hall and stands along the park’s paths. Within the center of the park is a pond with walkways, paddle boats and a pirate ship.The park is said to have inspired Disney world with sections themed to look and feel like China, Morocco and India. Each section decorated in architectural elements and monuments representative of each culture.  Being here during the holidays, the park was transformed into a Christmas wonderland with decorated trees, twinkle lights, Christmas music and all the elements of any good Christmas market. 

See the Sights

Copenhagen is a beautiful city lined with canals, cobble stone squares, historic buildings, castles, towers, palaces and churches. We toured several sights as we explored the city. 

Church of Our Savior Spire.  A 17th century church with a tall spiral spire and lookout. The interior and lower portion of the spire zigzags upwards through stairs and narrow passageways within the tower passing church bells and broken statues. The upper portion is located outside of the spire and winds up its exterior via a spiral staircase with the most stunning 360 views of Copenhagen.

Rundetaarn (The Round Tower).  A 16th century tower in the center of Copenhagen with rooftop views of the city. It was built for use as an observatory and still functions as one today. The wide spiral ramp leading to its top was designed so that horse and carriages could climb to the top. 

Rosenborg Castle.  A 15th century castle previously home to Denmark’s monarchy. The castle is now a museum with preserved lavish rooms, hidden chambers, portraits of the monarchs, antique furniture, tapestries and artifacts. It’s home to the Crown Jewels watched over by royal guards. The Crown Jewels include multiple jewel encrusted gold crowns, elaborate sets of jewelry, the coronation sepulture and large pink diamond. The estate is surrounded by the King’s Garden with sculptures, paths and fountains. 

Kunst Museum.  Denmark’s largest art museum with Danish and European art ranging from the 15th century to present day. We visited when Matisse’s “Red Room” was on display with several other pieces depicted in it for the first time since he painted the work. 

Gråbrødretorv Square.  A cobble stone square with colorful historic buildings, restaurants that spill out into the square and cocktail bars including Strøm Bar and Peder Oxe’s Kaelder. It was one of our favorite places to visit and felt like a hidden gem in the city center.

Christiansborg Palace.  The seat of the Danish prime minister, supreme court and parliament. It has a tall tower with views of the city and equestrian lawn.

Torvehallerne.  A food hall and market with over 60 restaurants and stalls selling baked goods, seafood, meats, cheese, wine, snaps, spices, produce and kitchenware. It’s a great place to try some of the traditional Danish dishes. Try Hallernes Smørrebrød for smørrebrød, Bageri for vienerbrød and Boutique Fisk for fiskfrikideler. 

Free Town Christiania.  An abandoned military base turned into a self governing community. Its former warehouses, bunkers and barracks that have been converted into homes, art studios, music venues, shops, restaurants and a brewery. Much of the neighborhood is decorated with street art and graffiti while buildings are retrofitted with larger windows, balconies and rooftop enclosures. The neighborhood is also a green space with lush nature and bike trails along the canal and where nature has began to take over. Though it remains illegal, Free Town Christianiais the only place in Denmark where vendors openly sell cannabis and related products

Good to Know.  Avoid directly photograph anything “drug” related. Mind the the “no photo” signs where posted. 

Danish Cuisine 

There are two types of Danish cuisine, traditional and contemporary. Traditional Danish cuisine is defined by a few main types of food like Smørrebrød, Fiskfrikideler and Vienerbrød. Contemporary Danish cuisine focuses on locally sourced, seasonal, foraged and pickled ingredients. 

Smørrebrød.  An open-face sandwich decoratively topped with colorful ingredients on a thin slice of heavily seeded bread. It’s often seafood based with cured salmon, cold water prawns, fried cod or pickled herring. It’s a common lunch meal and possibly Denmark’s most popular dish.

Snaps.  A herbal, bitter and high proof alcoholic beverage often drank as shots with Smørrebrød.

Fiskfrikideler.  A deep fried ball of dough, onion and cod, sometimes mixed or garnished with dill.

Vienerbrød.  Commonly referred to as the Danish, this is any style of flaky pastry with a custard or jam center. The most traditional of which has a light drizzle of chocolate of the top of it. Other common pastries include cinnamon rolls and cardamom croissants. 

Buns.  A hardy bread roll served with butter, jam and cheese. It’s a common breakfast.

Places to Eat & Drink

We toured Copenhagen on foot and by taste! These were several of the restaurants, cafes, bars and food stands that we visited. 

Restaurants 

Bistro Lupa.  A vegan restaurant specializing in contemporary Danish cuisine with a 5 course tasting menu and wine paring. The restaurant focuses on zero waste so everything is seasonal, locally scoured, foraged and pickled. 

Oysters & Grill.  A rustic seafood and wine bar with a 12 course tasting menu for 2. It came with a range of shellfish served different ways including raw oysters, fried oysters, scallop ceviche, grilled scallops on the shell, fried shrimp, pick and peal shrimp, mussel mariners, fried calamari, veggie crudités, salad, French fries, bread and dessert. 

Hanegal.  A food cart serving pølser out front of the Round Tower. This one offers multiple types of sausage including a vegan sausage.

Nyhavn 17.  A yellow building along the Nyhavn Canal with a dimly lit and wooden interior. The restaurant serves traditional Danish cuisine like smørrebrød. We had fried cod and pickled herring smørrebrød with snaps and gløgg.

Coffee Shops & Cafes

From hidden cafes, to cute coffee shops and local chains, there is no shortage of places to find a pastry and morning coffee. 

Hart Brød+Bar.  A waterfront cafe with pasties, coffee, breads and wine. Try the spandauer pastries (traditional danishes) and cardamom croissants.

GRØD.  A chain restaurant specializing in stovetop porridge and overnight oats.

Lille Petra.  A cafe hidden within a courtyard of a building servings Danish breakfast buns. 

Original Coffee.  A popular coffee shop chain located throughout the city. 

Bars & Pubs 

Across the city are a range cocktail bars, speakeasies, traditional pubs and breweries. Some of our favorite are: 

Strøm Bar.  An Art Deco and tropically decorated cocktail bar with cozy seating and a small shuffle board.

1105.  A late night bar hidden in an alley and behind a velvet curtain serving speciality cocktails. 

The Barking Dog.  A tequila and mezcal focused cocktail bar in a cozy basement apartment style setting.

Pulp.  A cocktail bar with a creative pop culture themed menu in a warm Danish designed interior. 

Peder Oxe’s Kaelder.  A cocktail bar and restaurant in a catacomb style tunnel and chambers of an old church. 

Nyhavnskroen.  Located on the Nyhavn Canal, this is a late night pub serving liters of beer and classic cocktails. 

Nemo’s.  Located in Christiania, this is a popular brunch spot in front of an outdoor music venue. Having recently eaten, we stopped in for a locally brewed beer.

Location Specifics

Hygge.  The Danish concept of coziness and surrounding yourself with things that make life good, especially during the dark cold winters. This can be friendship, laughter, warmth, food or drinks. It’s pronounced hoo-gah.

WalkingCopenhagen is a very pedestrian friendly and walkable city. We spent most of our visit walking between neighborhoods and destinations. Be careful not to walk into a bike lane.

Reservations.  Reservations are typically needed at restaurants and bars to guarantee a seat. 

Cash vs Card.  Cash is rarely needed as most places, including food carts, take credit card.

Language.  Danis is the national language though English is widely spoken as a second language throughout Copenhagen. 

Public Restrooms.  There are public restrooms throughout the city, most commonly in squares and plaza. 

For Next Time…

Next time we’re in Copenhagen we plan to venture into the country side and across the harbor to Sweden. 

Visit Skovtårnet (The Forest Tower).  A contemporary wooden structure in the middle of the Danish forest about an hour south of Copenhagen. 

Frederiksborg Castle & Gardens.  A Danish Royal castle and grounds on a lake in the countryside about 30 minutes north of Copenhagen. 

Malmö.  The Swedish city across the harbor from Copenhagen. It’s known for the Turning Torso, Scandinavia’s tallest skyscraper. 

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Iceland Road Trip Guide: Waterfalls, Glaciers & Black Sand Beaches

Road trip through Iceland's otherworldly landscapes where volcanoes, glaciers, waterfalls and black sand beaches create one of Earth's most dramatic journeys.

Icelandic Roadtrip

Iceland is a Nordic country in the North Atlantic famed for its other worldly landscapes, volcanos, glaciers, waterfalls, black sand beaches and geysers. It’s a frequent place to spot the Northern Lights in the winter months, bathe in thermal springs and whale watch. We visited Iceland for 5 days in mid-January, road tripping around the Golden Circle, along the South Coast and making time to explore Reykjavik

The Golden Circle 

The Golden Circle is a scenic route with several natural sites including a fault line, geysers, waterfalls and volcanos. It’s easily reachable from Reykjavík and can be explored within a day. 

Almannagjá Fault Line

The Almannagjá Fault Line is the location is where the North American and Eurasian plates are visibly pulling apart. We arrived just before sunrise. The sky was light pink and yellow in the early morning light, tones that were reflected by the white snow covered landscape. From a lookout, we admired the vast fissure that split the landscape in half, spanning for miles in both directions. After watching the sun rise, we followed a trail that descended into the fissure. On both sides of us were walls of jagged rocks dusted in fresh snow. The trail continued a few kilometers further. 

Getting Here.  The Almannagjá Fault Line is located about 45 minutes to 1 hour rom Reykjavík by car. 

Strokkur Geyser

The Strokkur Geyser is an active geyser with impressive eruptions happing every 5-15 minutes. We arrived as a cloud from a recent eruption billowed across the road in front of us. The smell of sulphur filled the air as boiling water bubbled from craters dotting the landscape around us. Soon after reaching the geyser, it erupted in a whoosh, sending steam and water 30 meters high. We walked to several other geysers in the area as the Strokkur Geyser routinely erupted in the background. 

Getting Here.  The Strokkur Geyser islocated about 1 hour from the Almannagjá Fault Line by car. 

Gullfoss Waterfall

The Gullfoss Waterfall is a massive waterfall on the Hvita River. The river cascades down two diagonal cliffs over 100 feet into the canyon below. The waterfall and river were mostly frozen when we visited but none-the-less dramatic. 

Getting Here.  The Gullfoss Waterfall islocated about 15 minutes from the Strokkur Geyser by car.

Kerið Crater Lake

The Kerið Crater Lake is a small lake located in the crater of an extinct volcano. The volcano is one of several forming a mini volcanic arc. While here, we hiked around the entire rim and descended into the crater. The lake was completely frozen over, allowing us to walk to its center. The steep snow covered pathways were extremely icy making is slightly dangerous but worth the hike. 

Getting Here.  The Kerið Crater Lake islocated about 1 hour from the Gullfoss Waterfall by car.

Ægissíðufoss Waterfall

Ægissíðufoss Waterfall is a small but beautiful cascading waterfall located on the Ytri-Rangá River in the town of Hella. The Hekla Volcano fumed in the distance upstream. 

Getting Here.  The Ægissíðufoss Waterfall islocated about 15 minutes outside of the town of Hella by car.

Our Cottage in Hella 

After exploring the Golden Circle, we spent the remainder of our evening at a cottage in the town Hella. The cottage was one of several perched on a hill overlooking a snow covered field. We made it our home base during our stay along Iceland’s southern coast. Book on Airbnb

The Northern Lights

The Northern Lights danced in the sky above our cottage every morning and evening. The aurora ranged from faint ribbons of pale green to brilliant displays of neon green that swirled and stretched across the sky. There was even a rare combination of green and red bands. We monitored the aurora conditions using NOAA’s Space Weather Prediction Center.

Dinner in Hella

Stracta Bistro.  A nordic restaurant serving Icelandic cuisine. Having spent all day outside, we warmed up with a bowl of Fiskisúpa, fish soup, and side of Rugbrauð, Icelandic rye bread.

The South Coast (Part 1)

Iceland’s South Coast is scenic destination home to glaciers, black sand beaches and waterfalls. We spent two days roadtripping along the South Coast from our cottage in Hella. On day one of the South Coast, we hiked across a frozen glacier, walked along a scenic black sand beach and watched impressive waterfall. 

Sólheimajökull Glacier Tour 

High on our list of to dos in Iceland was to visit a glacier. We booked an excursion with Arctic Adventures through Get Your Guide. We met our guide at 10am and geared up with ice cleats, helmets, a harness and an ice pick. Our guide took us and a small group on a hike along the lagoon to the front edge of the glacier. From there, we began our trek onto the ice. As we walked, it crunched below our cleats as we maneuvered through crevices and across its surface. The surface was rippled yet smoothed by water and wind. As we looked across the glacier, we admired the blue hues emanating from it and veins of black volcanic ash from previous eruptions. 

Getting Here.  The Sólheimajökull Glacier islocated about 1 hour from the town of Hella by car.

Lunch in Vik

After our glacier tour we drove to Vik, a remote coastal village on the southern most point of Iceland with colorful wooden houses and a black sand beach. While here, we ate lunch at The Soup Company. We ordered their volcano bowl, a black bread bowl with “winter soup” made from carrots, onions, lentil, coconut cream and crushed pineapple. They offer free refills of any soup so we went back for seconds and tried the broccoli cheddar. 

Getting Here.  Vik islocated about 30 minutes from The Sólheimajökull Glacier by car.

Reynisfjara Beach 

On the other side of Vik is Reynisfjara Beach. A black sand beach with jagged rock formations sticking out of the water and hexagonal basalt columns along the cliffside. Loving the beach, even in winter, we walked nearly two miles down it as the sun was setting. The waves here are ferocious and unpredictable so we stayed far away from the shoreline, keeping our eyes in the water and following warnings. 

Getting Here.  Reynisfjara Beach islocated about 15 minutes from Vik by car.

Skogafoss Waterfall 

Skogafoss is a grand and picturesque waterfall, both impressive for its height and width. The water seemed to move in slow motion as it fell. It was equally as peaceful as powerful to watch. There is a trail and staircase to an overlook at the top of the falls. It also leads further upstream to several smaller waterfalls. It was closed when we visited due to snow and ice. 

Getting Here.  Skogafoss Waterfall islocated about 30 minutes from Reynisfjara Beach by car.

Dinner in Selfoss 

After exploring glaciers, black sand beaches and waterfalls, we drove to the town of Selfoss for dinner in the town square. A renovated but historic site with traditional Icelandic architecture with colorful buildings, ornate moldings and gridded windows. The square had a holiday feel with piles of snow, string lights and a glittering Christmas tree still on display. 

Messinn. A restaurant specializing in contemporary adaptations of traditional Icelandic cuisine. We had the scallops served in a shell, cod cheeks sautéed in a miso glaze and plokkfiskur, a cod, potato and béchamel casserole. The interior looked like a vintage modern ship with wooden booths, port hole windows, a canvass ceiling made from sails and nautical decor.

Getting Here.  Selfoss islocated about 1 hour 15 minutes from Skogafoss Waterfall by car.

The South Coast (Part 2)

Iceland’s South Coast is scenic destination home to glaciers, black sand beaches and waterfalls. We spent two days roadtripping along the South Coast from our cottage in Hella. On day two of the South Coast, we watched the sunrise from an ice covered black sand beach, hiked to a basalt column waterfall, went climbing on Iceland’s largest glacier and were continually dazzled by the Northern Lights. 

Diamond Beach

Diamond Beach is a black sand beach covered jewel-like ice crystals. The glow of the sunrise cast a pink tone across the mountains and illuminated fragments of glacial ice that washed up on shore, resembling glittering diamonds set against the jet black sand. A vertical crescent moon rested low on the horizon while seals swam off shore and waves calmly splashed onto the beach. Photographers, dressed in winter gear, focused their lenses with the aim of capturing the scene while we gazed upon its pristine beauty. 

Getting Here.  Diamond Beach islocated about 4 hours from the town of Hella by car.

Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon 

The Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon separates the Atlantic Ocean from the Jökulsárlón Glacier. Ice bergs flow from it into the ocean, breaking apart and washing up on Diamond Beach. The lagoon’s surface looked like glass, only interrupted by the occasional seal coming up for air and taking a curious look around. 

Good to Know.  There are food trucks serving crepes, cold water prawns and fish & chips in the parking lot. 

Getting Here.  The Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon is located less than 5 minutes from Diamond Beach by car.

Svarrifoss Waterfall

The Svarrifoss Waterfall is a picturesque waterfall famous for its hexagonal basalt columns. During winter, the waterfall is frozen over with large icicles hanging from the hexagonal basalt columns flanking the waterfall. It’s accessible via the 2km Svarrifoss Trail starting at the Skaftafell Visitor Center. The trail, which has some steep sections offers views of the coast and mountains. It passes some smaller waterfalls and ruins of stone dwellings. 

Getting Here.  The trail head to the Svarrifoss Waterfall is located about 45 minutes from Diamond Beach. 

Falljökull Glacier

The Falljökull Glacier is glacial tongue extending from Iceland’s largest glacier, Vatnajökull Glacier. We came here to hike, explore ice caves and watch the sunset with a guide from Troll Expeditions. After gearing up, we trekked across the frozen lagoon and ash covered ice until reaching a series of blue and white ice crevices.

Ice Caves. A large crevice with a staircase carved into it lead to the entrance of an ice cave. The cave was blue with curved walls, rippled surfaces and deep blue veins where the ice had been heavily compressed. The cave lead to a narrow tunnel that burrowed deeper into the glacier, ending at a small chamber barely big enough for the two of us to squeeze into.

Glacial Sunset. We ascended further as the sun set, reaching a relatively smooth clearing with waves of ice that extended upwards towards jagged crevices and steep cliffs. Now high on the glacier, we stopped to listen to the silence, only interrupted by the occasional sharp crack of the ice. The color of the sky turned vibrant pink while the ice continually became bluer until it seemed to glow. Before reaching the ash covered base of the glacier, we came upon a window in the ice that framed the pink sky and mountain beyond. 

Getting Here.  The Falljökull Glacier islocated about 20 minutes from the Skaftafell Visitor Center by car.

Dinner in Vik

On our return to Hella, we stopped in Vik for dinner at Drangar, a restaurant specializing in modern Icelandic cuisine located at the Kria Hotel. We were welcomed with bread & butter sprinkled with black salt served on a lava rock. We ordered two Gulls and a range of small plates to share: an onion tart, Arctic char tartare, curried cod on a bed of risotto and a poached plum with skyr (Icelandic yogurt). 

Reykjavik

Reykjavik is scenic capital city of Iceland. It’s walkable downtown streets are lined with colorful corrugated buildings, old wooden houses and monumental landmarks. Icelandic boutiques and restaurants invite travelers in to shop for locally made goods and taste the country’s cuisine. The city is an ideal starting or ending point for most adventures in Iceland. 

Hallgrímskirkja Cathedral

The Hallgrímskirkja Cathedral is a stepped concrete cathedral designed with inspiration from the Icelandic landscape. The shape is meant to resemble an erupting geyser with its facade made from hexagonal columns reminiscent of the basalt columns seen across the country. There is an elevator to the top of the spire which overlooks Reykjavik. It was closed when we visited due to a funeral. 

Streets & Boutiques 

Rainbow Street.  A downtown street painted in a rainbow with boutiques and views of Hallgrímskirkja Cathedral.

Laugavegur.  A street with boutiques, vintage stores, design shops, restaurants, bakeries, cocktail bars and hotels. 

Reykjavik Raincoat.  A boutique specializing in modern raincoats sold in a range of colors. Their coats are made from the same material that Icelandic fishermen wear at sea. They also have wool accessories like hats, sweaters and scarves. 

Rammagerdin.  A boutique featuring local artists and handmade Icelandic products including taxidermy puffins, wool blankets, sweaters, yarn, leather gloves, furs, artwork and skincare items. 

The Water Front 

Reykjavik’s waterfront overlooks the bay and snow covered mountains across from it. It’s the site of multiple landmarks and starting point for whale watching tours. 

The Sun Voyager Sculpture.  A steel structure shaped like a Viking long boat, meant to inspire exploration. 

Harpa Concert Hall.  A geometric glass facade with a colorful kaleidoscopic effect. It’s inspired by the hexagonal basalt columns found across the island but also looks like the scales of a fish.

Höfði Lighthouse.  An iconic bright yellow lighthouse at the entrance of the Reykjavik Harbor.  

The Old Harbor.  Originally a fishing port and now a seaside neighborhood with restaurants and companies offering whale watching tours. There is free parking here.

Whale Watching 

Wildlife tours frequently leave from Reykjavik’s Old Harbor in search of spotting blue whales. As the ship set sail, we admired Reykjavik’s skyline behind us and the snow covered mountains across the bay ahead of us. Soon after entering the bay, the captain announced “thar she blows” to alert us he had spotted a whale! For newly two hours, we sailed around the icy bay watching a blue whale breach the surface, thrash its tail, spray water from its blow hole and dive back below. While on deck, we kept an eye out for where it would re-appear, often spotting seals hunting for fish. From the interior cabin we enjoyed fresh made waffles while warming up with hot coffee. We booked with Special Tours Iceland.

The Blue Lagoon

The Blue Lagoon is a geothermal spring famed is for its milky turquoise water. Its pools meander between hardened lava formations as towers of steam and mist rise above its surface. The environment is one of natural contrast with black lava rocks dusted in white snow and warm water juxtaposed the cold air. Stand under a hot waterfall while soaking in the thermal pools, enjoy a silica mud facial mask and drink fresh glacial water to hydrate. The lagoon is also a resort with a hotel, spa and multiple restaurants, including one built into an 800 year old lava cliff. Come here to relax immediately after flying into Reykjavik or before flying out. Book Tickets ahead of time. 

Places to Eat & Drink in Reykjavík

Reykjavík Fish. One of many restaurants offering the local favorite. We enjoyed large portions of crispy and tender fried cod paired with salted fries and Icelandic beer. The fisherman styled interior with whale paintings, nautical decor and lights shaded in dried cod skin added to the ambiance.

Matur og Drykkur. A Michelin stared restaurant serving seasonal tasting menus with Icelandic dishes and contemporary adaptations. The menu included: 

  • Pickled beets with fennel straws

  • Smoked trout with cucumber 

  • Cheese with sea truffle and crispy flatbread 

  • Halibut soup with a creamy broth 

  • Bacalao croquettes with chive oil and béchamel 

  • Hazelnut encrusted cod with parsnip purée and and smoked carrots 

  • Rhubarb jam with skyr and ginger crumble 

  • A coffee and spice cake topped with cream cheese icing and puffed barley

Braud & Co.  A bakery and cafe specializing in Snúður (cinnamon rolls), Rugbrauð (Icelandic rye bread), sourdough bread and pastries.

Víkinga Pylsur.  A food truck across from Hallgrímskirkja Cathedral with Icelandic sausages. We ordered a vegan version with purpled cabbage, seitan crumble, fried onion and creamy mustard. 

Lemmy.  A small pub and microbrewery located inside of an old wooden house in the center of town. We sampled 4 beers on tap:

  • Einstök Toasted Porter.  A nutty and rich flavor. 

  • Víking.  A classic light Pilsner available across Iceland. 

  • Lemmy IPA.  A house IPA infused with coffee. 

  • Bóndi Session IPA.  A semi hoppy IPA available across Iceland.

Tips for Planning an Icelandic Road Trip

Rent a Car.  Driving is the easiest way to get around on our own schedule. Rent a 4x4 wheel drive with an automatic transmission. We reserved a car before arriving in Iceland with Europcar at the Keflavik Airport. 

Book a Home Base.  Choose to stay somewhere central. We stayed at Hestheimar, a cottage in the town of Hella, half way between Reykjavik and Vik, making in the ideal location to explore the Golden Circle and South Coast from. 

Maximize Daylight. Plan to maximize daylight during the winter months. In mid-January, there is only about 5 hours of sunlight per day.

Prepare for the Weather.  Prepare and dress for rain, sleet, snow, ice and high winds. Hand and toe warmers maker all the difference while in the cold. 

Monitor Road Conditions.  Review the current Road Conditions before driving.

Avoid the Shoulder.  Do not pull over into the snowy roadside. You will get stuck! Instead, park on the road with your emergency flashers on. 

Drive the Speed Limit.  Hidden cameras are positioned across the country. If speeding, they will catch you and result in expensive fines! 

Rest Stops.  Most sites have nearby hotel, restaurant and restroom. 

Gas Stations.  Most towns have their own gas station. Be prepared for the extremely expensive prices. 

Buy Snacks.  Stock up on snacks and water for roadtrips. 

For Next Time…

Iceland is a remarkable country to visit! We loved our time road tripping around the  Golden Circle, along the South Coast and exploring Reykjavik. We plan to return to Iceland during the summer months: 

  • See the green moss covering the landscape. 

  • Explore the north side of the country. 

  • Pet an Icelandic horse. 

  • Visit and birdwatch on a puffin colony. 

  • Experience the midnight sun. 

  • Bathe in some of the lesser known thermal springs. 

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