Vieques Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Mosquito Bay, Beaches & Island Adventures

Vieques

Vieques is an island six miles off the coast of Puerto Rico. It’s home to a bioluminescent bay, free roaming horses, white and black sand beaches, turquoise swimmable water, marine reserves and two small towns.

Isabel Segunda.  The main town on the north side of the island with the ferry terminal, grocery stores, restaurants, hotels and souvenir shops.

Esperanza.  A sleepy town on the south side of the island with restaurants, hotels, tour companies and beaches.

See the Sights

Faro Puerto Mulas.  A small abandoned lighthouse overlooking Isabel Segunda. 

El Fortín De Conde Mirasol.  A small Spanish fort overlooking the town of Isabel Segunda surrounding a blue and orange painted museum. 

300 Year Old Ceiba Tree.  A sacred tree known for its age and impressive root structure. It’s located between the airport and Mosquito Pier.  

Mosquito Pier.  A mile long pier on the north side of the island. Come here to spot marine life including eagle rays, sea turtles and jellyfish.

Paso Fino Horses.  The island is home to over 2,000 free roaming horses. They are tame and can be found walking the beaches, grazing in fields and along the road sides. Watch out for piles of horse manure. Various companies offer riding tours along the beaches. 

Vieques National Wildlife Refuge.  A nature reserve that covers more than half the island and includes bays, mangrove forests, salt flats, hiking trails, beaches and coral reefs.

Crab Island Rum Distillery.  Visit the island’s only rum distillery! Crab Island produces 14 month, 3 year and orange flavored rums. Most bars and restaurants on the island serve their rum. Go to Bili for a Rum Island Iced tea made from all three! 

Things to Do

Go Stargazing.  Given the remote location and lack of city lights, the sky is often dark for brilliant stargazing. Download the free Sky Tonight app to identify constellations, planets and distant stars.

Kayak in the Bioluminescent Bay (Mosquito Bay).  Recognized as the brightest bioluminescent bay in the world. We came here to kayak at night to experience the bioluminescence. Immediately after paddling away in our kayak, the water began to sparkle around us, our paddle illuminated vibrant streaks of bioluminescence and swimming fish left a glowing trail behind them. It was truly an unreal experience that felt like the Manta Ray in Moana or a patronus charm in Harry Potter. Book with Abe’s Snorkeling and Bio Bay Tours. They offer snorkeling tours across the island and kayaking tours in the bio bay and mangrove channels. 

Beach Hopping 

Rent a car and spend time beach hopping across the island. Vieques is home to numerous beaches ranging in size, swimmability and accessibility. The most popular and swimmable beaches are on the south side of the island. The most remote are located in the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge.

Bastimento Beach.  A long meandering beach with turquoise water, a sandy shore, coral reefs, a protected tide pool and snorkeling on the north side of the island.

El Gallito (Gringo Beach).  A roadside beach with a sandy shore, short palm trees and views looking towards the mainland of Puerto Rico and Culebra. 

Playa Negra.  A semi remote cliff side black sand beach. There is a small parking lot near Playa Negra Fine Foods. Follow a trail to get here (technically a stream) and walk for 15 minutes until reaching the beach. It’s not the safest for swimming due to rocks and currents. It’s located on the south side just west of Esperanza. 

Playa Caracas (The Red Beach).  A beach with white sand, palm trees, turquoise water and shaded gazebos. It’s located in the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge.

Esperanza Beach.  A popular beach near town on the south side of the island with kiosks, restaurants, bars and kayak rentals.

Sea Glass Beach.  A small beach to collect handfuls of sea glass within minutes of beach combing. It’s located in the town of Isabel Segunda. 

Playa Pata Prieta (Secret Beach).  A secluded beach popular for swimming and snorkeling. It’s a 10 min drive east of Playa Caracas. 

Playa Chiva (Blue Beach).  A long powder white sand beach with calm turquoise and navy blue water. Come here to swim and snorkel. It’s a 5 min drive east of Playa Pata Prieta. 

Escondida Beach.  A small beach with some snorkeling. It can frequently be covered in sea weed. Located a 15min walk east of Playa Chiva. 

Playa Plata.  A semi private white sand beach with crystal clear turquoise water for swimming and snorkeling. Located a 5min drive east of Playa Chiva. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Saint Voodoos Mar Azul.  A waterfront bar with a deck overlooking the Caribbean. Come here for cocktails and lite bites at sunset. 

Lazy Jacks.  A restaurant and bar near Esperanza beach for tacos, sandwiches, salads, beers and cocktails. 

Lydia’s Bakery.  A bakery with breads, sandwiches, pastries and coffee. 

Bili.  A restaurant with an impressive seafood menu including Caribbean lobsters, grilled mahi mahi and octopus. Come here for their Crab Island Long Island. 

Vieques Food Park.  A food truck park with several restaurants. We came to Rincon Cafe for breakfast and coffee. 

Bar La Nasa.  A beach front bar with cocktails, beer and music. 

Family Market Centró Ahorras.  A grocery store located in Isabel Segunda. Come here to stock up on water, beers and snacks before heading to the beach. 

Getting to Vieques 

By Air.  We booked a one way flight with Cape Air, from San Juan to Vieques. It’s a quick 20 min flight over the El Yunque rainforest and scenic way to travel. They offer multiple flights daily for around $100 one way. 

By Sea.  We booked our return trip on the Puerto Rico Ferry, from Vieques to Ceiba. From Ceiba we took an Uber to San Juan. One way ferry tickets cost $2 and the Uber costs around $100. 

Getting Around Vieques

By Car.  Vieques is a large island. The best way to get around, see all of the sights and explore is by renting a car. We booked with Maritza’s Car Rental for about $110 per day with insurance. 

By Taxi.  Taxis were readily available across the Island bringing people between Isabella Segunda, Escondida, the airport and accessible beaches. 

Where to Stay

Tropical Guest House. A beautifully decorated home in Isabella Segunda with a comfy bed, kitchenette, outdoor grill, beech chairs, umbrellas and snorkel equipment. Book here on Airbnb. 

Location Specifics

Respect the Culture.  Puerto Ricans are very proud of their island, culture and heritage. Please show respect when discussing local issues and topics. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and learn about the culture and island.  

US Territory.  Puerto Rico is a US Territory meaning US Citizens can visit the island without a passport. 

Language.  Spanish is the primary language spoken in Puerto Rico. English is widely spoken as a second language. Knowing basic Spanish words and phrases is helpful and beneficial when visiting. 

Currency.  Puerto Rico uses the US Dollar. 

Metric vs Imperial.  Puerto Rico uses a combination of the Metric and Imperial systems. Speed limits are in marked in mph while distances are marked in kilometers. Gasoline is sold by the liter instead of by the gallon. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit and debit card is widely accepted across the island. Cash is preferred by most vendors at markets, kiosks and some businesses. 

Power Outages.  The electrical grid is fragile due to devastation from past natural disasters. While power outages rarely affect tourists, they do happen. It’s a difficult part of life for many Puerto Ricans. 

Tap Water.  Tap water is generally safe for consumption around the island. 

Tropical Weather.  Puerto Rico experiences tropical weather. Carry an umbrella incase of afternoon and evening rain storms. Tropical storms and hurricanes are possible from June through November with September through October being the most active. 

Swimming.  Mind the warning signs and red flags advising about dangerous ocean currents. Pay attention to where others are and are not swimming. 

Sun Protection.  The harsh UV is dangerous in Puerto Rico. Wear sun block when outside, even on cloudy days. 

Insect Repellent.  Mosquitos are prevalent across the island with mosquito borne illnesses on the rise. Wear insect repellant to minimize bites.  

Clothing.  Shorts and tank tops are generally acceptable to wear, keep the swimwear for the beach and plan to change into pants while dining out or visiting local spots. 

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico 

From vibrant cities and rainforest hikes to surf breaks and mountain landscapes, explore more of Puerto Rico beyond its offshore islands through these travel guides:

San Juan Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Beaches, Food & Local Culture. Wander between San Juan's sunny beaches, lively plazas and colorful neighborhoods while experiencing the food, music and culture that makes Puerto Rico unique.

Old San Juan Travel Guide: Historic Streets, Food & Colonial Charm.  Stroll through Old San Juan's cobblestone streets, historic forts and colorful architecture while discovering the colonial charm of Puerto Rico's most iconic neighborhood.

Eastern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: El Yunque, Bioluminescent Bays & Beaches.  Explore Eastern Puerto Rico's lush El Yunque rainforest, glowing bioluminescent bays and tropical beaches where island adventures and local culture converge.

Western Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Rincón, Beaches & Surfing.  Chase waves and sunsets across Western Puerto Rico's tropical beaches, sleepy surf towns and coastal landscapes where island life and adventure converge.

Southwestern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Cabo Rojo, La Parguera & Beyond.  Journey through Southwestern Puerto Rico where historic towns, Caribbean cayos, pristine beaches, bioluminescent bays and dry forests reflect the island’s diverse character.

Central Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Mountains, Hiking & Taino Sites.  Discover Central Puerto Rico's lush mountain landscapes, waterfalls, ancient cave systems, scenic hiking trails and Taíno archaeological sites beyond the island's beaches.

Ponce Puerto Rico Travel Guide: History, Architecture & Local Culture.  Experience Ponce's historic architecture, cultural landmarks, Taíno archaeological sites and annual carnival traditions in Puerto Rico's Pearl of the South.

Culebra Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Beaches, Sea Turtles & Island Adventures.  Voyage to the tiny island of Culebra to discover its pristine beaches, turquoise waters, vibrant marine life and a sleepy beach town. 

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set on experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips to Vieques including: 

Mt. Pirata Observation Post.  Hike to the tropical summit of the tallest point on Vieques measuring nearly 1,000 feet above sea level. 

Horseback Riding on Vieques.  We have our eyes set on a beach sunset horseback riding tour. 

Culebra Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Beaches, Sea Turtles & Island Adventures

Culebra

Culebra is a tiny island halfway between “mainland” Puerto Rico and the US Virgin Islands. Things move a little slower here making it a great place to relax and appreciate life. The island has a small town with great restaurants, is home to multiple nature reserves and a variety of beaches. 

Things to Do

There are many things to do while exploring Culebra, primarily focused on outdoor activities like snorkeling, beach hopping, hiking and watching the sunset. 

Explore Dewey.  Culebra’s only town can be walked from end to end in minutes. Though small, its main road is home to restaurants, cafes, guest houses and the ferry terminal.  

Jump from the Bridge.  Join locals and jump from the Dewey bridge into the canal. Wear water shoes to protect your feet from the mussels and urchins.

Hector the Protector.  Walk along the rock break wall across from the ferry terminal and visit Hector the Protector, a planked wood human figure holding a lantern. 

Watch a Caribbean Sunset.  Many of the western beaches like Tamarindo, Punta Soldado or Carlos Rosario are peaceful places to watch the sunset below the Caribbean.

Visit the Beaches

Culebra has many great beaches all worth visiting for different reasons. There are white sand beaches, rocky beaches, remote beaches and unofficial nude beaches.

Flamenco Beach

Flamenco Beach is beloved for its powdery white sand shore that wraps around a turquoise blue bay. Come here to relax under the heat of the Caribbean sun or shade of a swaying palm tree. The beach is famed for its graffitied tanks. home to a campground and offering of beach services and amenities. 

Flamenco’s Tanks.  Flamenco Beach is famed for its graffitied tanks. The shoreline surrounding the most iconic tank has been swept away by recent storms. Though still accessible, it’s now a pelican nesting ground. The second tank resides on a small hill nearby. 

Beach Services.  Flamenco Beach has a range of services and amenities making it easy to stay here all day. 

• Fees.  Parking costs $5 per vehicle and $2 per person. 

• Amenities.  Restrooms, showers and lockers are available 24/7. Lockers cost an additional fee to use. Bring your own hand soap for the restrooms. 

• Kiosks.  A series of modern kiosks offer food, beverages, ice cream, beach supplies and souvenirs. Try the traditional Puerto Rican snacks like empanadillas, bacalaitos, alcapurrias and pinchos. Pair them with a boozy tropical cocktail, local beer or fruit juice. 

• Rentals.  Two kiosks offer beach rentals including chairs, umbrellas, snorkel masks, life jackets and floaties.  

• Lifeguards.  Lifeguards watch over designated swimming areas. 

Flamenco Beach Camping.  Camping at Flamenco Beach is one of the most enjoyable ways to maximize beach time and experience Culebra’s pristine nature. We camped here for a long weekend on our most recent trip to the island. Tent under the stars, fall asleep to the sounds of crashing waves and wake up to the calls of roosters.

• Camping is DIY.  Bring your own gear: tent, sleeping bags, air mattress, hammock, beach chairs, flashlight, etc. 

• Where to Camp.  The official camping area is located after the kiosks and behind the beachfront tree line. It’s an expansive and shaded area with plenty of space to set up undisturbed. 

• Fees & Bookings.  Camping costs $35 per night per tent. Call ahead for a reservation or book at the beachfront ticket office. The office hours are from 8am-5pm. If showing up after hours, return the next day to register and pay. For reservations and information, call (787) 742 0700. 

Culebrita Beach. A crescent shaped beach with a narrow white sand shore and calm aquamarine water. It’s located on the island of Culebrita (Little Culebra) and requires a boat to reach. We sailed here on a catamaran with a group of friends through East Island Excursions. The tour brought us to a coral garden off the coast of Culebra to snorkel before mooring offshore from Culebrita Beach. We spent the afternoon diving from the catamaran, dancing to Reggaeton music, swimming between the boat and shore, relaxing on the beach and enjoying an unlimited supply of rum cocktails. 

Playa Resaca.  This beach is as much about the journey as it is the destination. After a rigorous hike, you’ll reach a vast beach that you’ll likely have to yourself the entire day. The only swimmable area is the shallows at the far east end of the beach. Because it’s so remote, it’s the perfect place to get naked ;)

Hiking to Resaca:  

• Follow a paved road up the hill past the airport. There will be a parking lot at the top. Walk through the waist high grass behind the sign to locate the trail. 

• The further you descend, the more rigorous the trail gets. You’ll have to walk over boulders and duck under tree branches. We recommend wearing pants, hiking shoes and bringing a stick to knock away spider webs and thorny plants. 

• The trail ends at a mangrove forest just before the beach. There will be pink and orange ribbons, nautical debris and water bottles strung along the trees guiding you through it. Follow these markers, even if you think you’re on the path, or you will get lost! 

• The final stretch leads through a thicket of beach grape trees ending at a lone palm tree overlooking the beach. From the parking lot, it should take 45min to reach Playa Resaca. Plan to leave the beach at least 1 hour before sunset. 

Playa Zoni.  A white sand beach equally as beautiful as Flamenco. It’s located on the northeast side of the island, easily reachable by car though rarely that busy. Outside of free parking, there are no amenities.

Playa Punta Soldado.  A rocky beach great for finding conch shells. You’ll find a lot of fragments and occasionally a whole shell. Supposedly it’s a good spot to snorkel though we’ve never tried here.

Snorkeling Beaches 

Culebra is a beautiful place to snorkel with multiple reefs easily accessible from shore. The beaches along the southwest coast of Culebra are the best on the island for snorkeling.

Reserva Natural Canal Luis Peña.  A canal and  protected nature reserve separating Culebra and Cayo Luis Peña. It’s home to coral reefs, sea grass meadows, an abundance of sea life and views of Caribbean sunsets. 

Cayo de Luis Peña.  A protected island and nature preserve home to coral reefs, sea grass meadows and sandy shorelines. We snorkeled along its southwestern bay in a shallow water reef with large formations and fields of fan corals waving in the currents. Tiny tropical fish swam between coral nodules while larger fish hid within crevices. Spotted eagle rays circled each other and glided past. 

Playa Tamarindo Grande.  A secluded beach along the Canal Luis Peña, accessible via the Carlos Rosario Nature Trail. Just offshore is a vibrant reef with all types of lively and colorful corals. For the best snorkeling, enter the water near the green beach sign at the center of the beach, swim about 25 feet out, then follow the reef to the left. Water shoes are recommended due to jagged rocks near the shore.

Carlos Rosario Nature Trail.  A nature trail leading from the parking lot of Flamenco Beach to Playa Tamarindo Grande and Playa Carlos Rosario. The hike is relatively easy, leading over a hilltop crest, taking about 20 minutes one way. Along the trail, watch out for skittish lizards, hermit crabs and the occasional garden snake. 

Good to Know. Stay on the trail as unexploded munitions from military testing are believed to be in the area. 

Playa Tamarindo.  A beautiful beach with salt and pepper pebbles and a narrow stretch of white sand. This easily accessible spot is a popular place for snorkeling. A small and colorful reef home with tropical fish resides just offshore to the far left while a vast seagrass meadow begins about 50 feet out. Sea turtles, eagle rays and reef squids can be seen gliding through these waters.

Playa Melones.  A small and unassuming beach with a rocky shoreline and breathtaking coral reef. Enter the water at the center of the beach then swim out and towards the rocks on the right. Beneath the surface are large formations brimming with colorful corals and tropical fish. Green, purple and yellow corals sway in the currents as fish swim between and lurk within crevices. It’s some of the best snorkeling on Culebra!

Tips for Snorkeling in Culebra:

• Snorkel Gear.  Bring your own snorkel gear or rent it from Blue Water or Culebra Divers, both located next to the ferry terminal. 

• When to Snorkel.  The sea life is most active before 10am and an hour before sunset. 

• Sunblock.  Wear reef safe sunblock to avoid harming the corals.

• Underwater Camera.  Capturing photos underwater is possible with most smartphones and a specialty case. We used the Pictar Waterproof Smartphone Caseavailable on Amazon. 

Places to Eat and Drink 

For a tiny island, Culebra has a range of great restaurants, cafes and bars, mostly centered around Dewey.

Dinghy Dock.  A popular restaurant overlooking the island’s inner bay, frequented by boaters on inflatable dinghies. Come here for tropical cocktails and fresh caught seafood dishes like grilled Mahi Mahi and Chillo Frito Entero (whole fried red snapper). Feed the scraps to the giant tarpon waiting dockside.  

Mamacita’s.  A lively restaurant and bar located along the narrow canal in the middle of town. It’s a favorite spot of ours to come for boozy cocktails and sharable appetizers like coconut shrimp, mahi mahi bites and tostones. Like Dinghy Dock, come here to feed the tarpon.

La Cocina del Navegante.  An elevated restaurant overlooking the island’s inner bay. Their kitchen specializes in seafood dishes like Caribbean lobster, filets of red snapper, shrimp stuffed mofongo and paella! 

El Batay.  A roadside bar and local hangout located halfway between town and the airport. Come here to play a game of pool, sip on drinks or order one to takeaway.  

Pan Café.  A very popular bakery serving pastries, breakfast sandwiches and coffee. Try the Mallorca, a bready Puerto Rican pastry shaped into a swirl and sprinkled with powdered sugar. 

Hotel Kokomo.  The perfect go to for an inexpensive meal or quick lunch, especially while waiting for the ferry. We’ve ordered fish sandwiches and empanadas. 

Black Flamingo Coffee.  Our favorite breakfast spot on the island. Come here for their coffee, homemade sourdough toast and breakfast tacos.

Culebra Coffee.  A coffee shop selling mango and acai bowls, egg dishes and baked goods.

Tips for Dining Out in Culebra:

• Most places accept credit cards however it’s good to have cash. There’s an ATM in town near the ferry terminal.

• Make reservations at places you want to eat. Service ends early and places can book up.

• Be patient, people and businesses move slower here.

Grocery Stores 

There are two grocery stores on the island. Colmado Carnicería Milka, located in town and Colmado Costa del Sol, located next to the airport. Both offer all the basics and necessities of any grocery store. They’re also good spots to buy snacks and drinks for the beach.

Getting to Culebra 

By Ferry.  Take the Puerto Rico Ferry from Ceiba to Culebra. It’s an efficient and cost effective way of reaching the island. The ferry operates on a strict schedule. You need to buy tickets at least 1 week in advance, especially if traveling on a weekend. It can take anywhere from 1-2 hours depending on the type of boat and sea conditions. 

Getting to Ceiba.  Preschedule an Uber or Lyft. Rides typically cost around $100 one way. The drive from San Juan to Ceiba takes on average 1 hour 30 minutes depending on traffic and time of day. 

By Plane.  Book flights on a puddle jumper through Cape Air. Flights take less than 30 minutes from San Juan. Roundtrip tickets can cost between $200 and $300 per person. Due to cost, we typically opt for the ferry.

Getting Around Culebra

Golf Cart Rentals.  A golf cart is the most efficient way to navigating Culebra on your own. UTV Rental PRoffers a range of rugged club cars for $70-$85 per day.

Jeep Rentals.  Having a Jeep is helpful for getting around on your own schedule but can be expensive. We’ve rented from Jerry’s Jeep Rental and Carlos Jeep Rental on past trips for around $150 per day. It’s often more advisable to rent a golf cart or call a taxi when needed.

Culebra Taxis.  Local drivers provide taxi services around Culebra. The typical ride costs $20 for up to 4 people. Expect to pay in cash or by payment link. Here are some reputable taxi drivers. 

• Angel (787) 455 1892

• Damaris (787) 455 1893

• Abner (787) 237 5313

On Foot.  Though Culebra is a small island, getting around on foot outside of the town is difficult but not impossible. Many people are friendly enough to stop and give you a ride. Carry a flashlight when walking at night. 

Where to Stay 

Having visited Culebra three times, we’ve camped, stayed in Dewey and further away along the bay. 

Mamacita’s Guest House. A hub for activity on Culebra and a lively place to stay in the center of town. The rooms are simple but well equipped for a relaxing stay. Make sure to visit the restaurant and bar for dinner and drinks. Book on Airbnb. 

Oceanfront Villa.  A vacation rental with panoramic views of the island’s inner bay. The villa has private suites and shared balcony. It’s located about 20 minutes on foot from Dewey or 5 minutes by car. Book on Airbnb. 

Location Specifics

Respect the Culture.  Puerto Ricans are very proud of their island, culture and heritage. Please show respect when discussing local issues and topics. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and learn about the culture and island.  

US Territory.  Puerto Rico is a US Territory meaning US Citizens can visit the island without a passport. 

Language.  Spanish is the primary language spoken in Puerto Rico. English is widely spoken as a second language. Knowing basic Spanish words and phrases is helpful and beneficial when visiting. 

Currency.  Puerto Rico uses the US Dollar. 

Metric vs Imperial.  Puerto Rico uses a combination of the Metric and Imperial systems. Speed limits are in marked in mph while distances are marked in kilometers. Gasoline is sold by the liter instead of by the gallon. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit and debit card is widely accepted across the island. Cash is preferred by most vendors at markets, kiosks and some businesses. 

Power Outages.  The electrical grid is fragile due to devastation from past natural disasters. While power outages rarely affect tourists, they do happen. It’s a difficult part of life for many Puerto Ricans. 

Tap Water.  Tap water is generally safe for consumption around the island. 

Tropical Weather.  Puerto Rico experiences tropical weather. Carry an umbrella incase of afternoon and evening rain storms. Tropical storms and hurricanes are possible from June through November with September through October being the most active. 

Swimming.  Mind the warning signs and red flags advising about dangerous ocean currents. Pay attention to where others are and are not swimming. 

Sun Protection.  The harsh UV is dangerous in Puerto Rico. Wear sun block when outside, even on cloudy days. 

Insect Repellent.  Mosquitos are prevalent across the island with mosquito borne illnesses on the rise. Wear insect repellant to minimize bites.  

Clothing.  Shorts and tank tops are generally acceptable to wear, keep the swimwear for the beach and plan to change into pants while dining out or visiting local spots. 

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico 

From vibrant cities and rainforest hikes to surf breaks and mountain landscapes, explore more of Puerto Rico beyond its offshore islands through these travel guides:

San Juan Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Beaches, Food & Local Culture. Wander between San Juan's sunny beaches, lively plazas and colorful neighborhoods while experiencing the food, music and culture that makes Puerto Rico unique.

Old San Juan Travel Guide: Historic Streets, Food & Colonial Charm.  Stroll through Old San Juan's cobblestone streets, historic forts and colorful architecture while discovering the colonial charm of Puerto Rico's most iconic neighborhood.

Eastern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: El Yunque, Bioluminescent Bays & Beaches.  Explore Eastern Puerto Rico's lush El Yunque rainforest, glowing bioluminescent bays and tropical beaches where island adventures and local culture converge.

Western Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Rincón, Beaches & Surfing.  Chase waves and sunsets across Western Puerto Rico's tropical beaches, sleepy surf towns and coastal landscapes where island life and adventure converge.

Southwestern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Cabo Rojo, La Parguera & Beyond.  Journey through Southwestern Puerto Rico where historic towns, Caribbean cayos, pristine beaches, bioluminescent bays and dry forests reflect the island’s diverse character.

Central Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Mountains, Hiking & Taino Sites.  Discover Central Puerto Rico's lush mountain landscapes, waterfalls, ancient cave systems, scenic hiking trails and Taíno archaeological sites beyond the island's beaches.

Ponce Puerto Rico Travel Guide: History, Architecture & Local Culture.  Experience Ponce's historic architecture, cultural landmarks, Taíno archaeological sites and annual carnival traditions in Puerto Rico's Pearl of the South.

Vieques Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Mosquito Bay, Beaches & Island Adventures.  Island hop to Vieques to experience the bioluminescent waters of Mosquito Bay,  wild horses and black sand beaches on an unforgettable island adventure.

Why Travel Matters: Building Empathy, Perspective & Meaningful Connections

Our Perspective

Travel is one of life's greatest privileges. It has the power to cultivate meaningful connections, build empathy and deepen our appreciation for the people, places and cultures that make our world so wonderfully diverse. More than simply visiting new destinations, travel becomes an important part of our own journey of self discovery.

Everyone should travel if they have the opportunity, whether that means crossing the globe or exploring somewhere close to home. There is no right way to travel and no age that's too late to begin. Start where you're comfortable, then gradually step beyond your comfort zone. Some of life's most unforgettable experiences are found just beyond what feels familiar.

Travel broadens our perspective in ways few other experiences can. It introduces us to different customs, traditions and ways of life while deepening our understanding of history, culture and the world around us. It reminds us that there are countless ways to live, celebrate and see the world, each with something valuable to teach.

Travel also encourages gratitude. It offers a chance to disconnect from the routines of everyday life, reset our perspective and appreciate both the places we visit and the lives we return to. Along the way, we build friendships, share stories and discover that our differences are often what bring us closer together.

The more we travel, the more curious we become. Every journey sparks new ideas, challenges old assumptions and inspires us to keep exploring. Our travels have strengthened our passion for discovering the world, introduced us to lifelong friends and continually reminded us that embracing different cultures with openness and respect is one of travel's greatest rewards.

Responsible Travel Guide: How to Travel with Respect, Curiosity & Purpose

Our Perspective

As a citizen of the world, a level of responsibility comes with traveling to different destinations. You should be open-minded of other cultures, peoples, ways of living and perspectives. Travel allows us to step outside of our comfort zone, build empathy and expand our world view. In our opinion, it’s what makes every trip so memorable. We’ve learned a lot about how to travel responsibly and meaningfully on our adventures. There are many lessons that hold true no matter where we travel. 

Respect Local Culture

Customs, Traditions & Laws.  Many regions of the world have vastly differing customs, traditions and laws that may not seem obvious. Read up on local customs, traditions and laws prior to traveling and be respectful of them while there. Having an understanding of the culture before arriving will make your experience more authentic.

Be Open-Minded.  Many cultures and societies live differently than our own. Our differences are what makes us all so unique. Use these opportunities to learn, build empathy and expand your world view. 

Language & Conversation.  Knowing a few words and phrases in the local language goes a long way. Simply learning how to say hello, thank you and goodbye shows locals you have an interest in them and their culture. Don’t be afraid to mispronounce a word or let a local correct you. Often, people in the tourist or hospitality industries will enjoy conversation and practicing speaking your language with you. Be patient and open to the conversation.

Local Food & Cuisine.  Seek out and try the local dishes, food and cuisine while traveling! Shop at local markets, try the street food, take a cooking class and ask locals where they like to eat for recommendations. Depending on the location, forget the Western utensils and use the chopsticks or eat with your hands. 

Get Cultured.  Visit local museums and learn about your destination’s history, art and heritage. Take a walking tour or bike tour with a local to experience a place through a local’s eyes and point of view. Find restaurants with live music. Get outside of the resort or hotel to experience local life. Break away from the large tour groups and get lost exploring on your own. 

Photography & Videography.  Always be cautious when taking photos or videos of people, government sites, infrastructural landmarks, sacred or religious places and inside of museums. You should ask first if you’re unsure. Watch for no photos signs.

Support Local Communities 

Support Local Businesses.  Whether a family run cafe, a neighborhood hostel, local tour guide or small boutique, local communities often thrive on a healthy level of tourism. Avoid mass produced souvenirs and buy something handmade. Avoid staying at large hotels or dining at non-local chain restaurants. 

The Road Less Traveled.  Try to visit off the beaten path places to avoid over tourism or consider traveling to trendy destinations during the off season. Get out of the tourist zone of city center. Stay in a local area for more authentic experiences. 

Avoid Poverty or Disaster Tourism.  Avoid traveling to places to see how impoverished they are or the lingering results of a disaster. Only visit these places if you plan to engage with locals, give back to the community or offer genuine support. 

Leave Reviews.  Tourism thrives on helpful and positive reviews. Make sure to let restaurants, hotels, guides, etc. know if they provided a great experience. Avoid leaving negative reviews or comments for things outside of a person or place’s control. 

Research Your Destination

Entry Requirements.  Don’t just show up in another country without knowing the entry requirements. Know if you need a visa, ETA, vaccine or proof of departure. 

Stay Informed.  Keep up-to-date on recent headlines and news in the country or destination you’re visiting. It often helps provide context to cultural events, current affairs and natural disasters. 

Don’t Talk Politics.  Going hand in hand with staying informed, it’s best not to talk politics or about a country’s leadership as a guest in their country. Always be open to listening to people’s opinions, beliefs and experiences. 

Avoid Comparisons.  Don’t compare everything to your home country, especially with locals. It can come off as judgmental or resentful of their unique culture, history or cuisine. 

Cash & Currency.  Always carry some denominations of the local currency on hand. Have some US Dollars or Euros but don’t assume you can pay in those currencies by default.

Credit & Debit Cards.  Know if your credit or debit card will work in a foreign country. Carry local cash for times when credit or debit is not accepted or available. 

Tipping.  Know if it’s acceptable to tip after meals or drinks. Research how much to tip. Always make sure to tip your tour guides for their service. 

Take Care of the Environment 

Leave No Trace.  Don’t litter or leave waste behind, especially in the outdoors. Don’t take rocks, shells, soil, plants, etc. while visiting natural places. Never touch or feed wild animals to avoid harming yourself or them.

Waste Management.  Recycle, compost, and manage your personal waste responsibly. Pollution is a serious issue around the world and we can all do our part to reduce it. Avoid single use plastics like water bottles, cutlery and straws. 

Electricity Usage.  Be mindful of your energy usage. Turn off the lights, air conditioning, heaters, etc. before leaving your room or accommodation. 

Water Usage.  Be mindful of your water consumption, especially in drought stricken regions or places with water scarcity. Take shorter and less frequent showers and don’t let the faucet run. 

Don’t Waste Food.  Order or take only what you can eat and take away any leftovers.

Healthy Travel Habits 

Disconnect.  Put down your phone and pay attention to everything happening around you. Practice being present and truly experiencing the moments that make travel so important. Remember that you may never be back at this destination again.

Have Patience.  Service in many places of the world is slower than what you might be used to. Have patience during check in, placing orders, waiting for meals or paying for services. Always allow yourself extra time. 

Stay Hydrated.  Carry a re-usable water bottle and stay hydrated while traveling. Whether in transit or at the destination, drinking water is key to staying well. 

LGBTQ+ Travel Safety Guide: Tips for Traveling Safely

LGBTQ+ Travel Safety

Traveling as a same sex couple is an incredible way to explore the world, but it often requires an added level of awareness to plan confidently and stay safe while traveling. While many destinations are becoming more LGBTQ+ friendly and recognizing the rights of the queer community, others still have restrictive laws or lower levels of social acceptance.

The Statistics

As of 2026, more than 60 countries still criminalize same sex relationships, making it important for LGBTQ+ travelers to understand the legal environment before visiting a destination. In some places, same sex relationships can result in serious penalties including fines, deportation, imprisonment, forced anal examinations or even death sentences. Many countries do not recognize same sex marriage or nonbinary gender markers on identification documents, which can create additional challenges when passing through immigration. 

Our Experience 

In our travels as a same sex couple, we’ve visited many welcoming places as well as some that were less accepting. That doesn’t mean you should avoid destinations that are more challenging, but it does mean being informed and prepared. Even in LGBTQ+ friendly places, situations can arise. Through our experiences, we share recommendations and resources to help LGBTQ+ travelers navigate destinations respectfully and safely. 

Do Your Research

As travelers in a marginalized group, it’s important to research the laws, cultural norms and general attitudes toward LGBTQ+ people before visiting a new destination to avoid unexpected challenges. Legal protections, religious beliefs, and social attitudes toward LGBTQ+ individuals can vary widely from country to country. Taking time to research your destination, including any layovers, in advance is one of the most important steps LGBTQ+ travelers can take to plan a safer and more informed trip. Here are some of the resources we reference before and during our travels.

Equal Dex. A valuable resource for understanding how a country or region currently compares in terms of LGBTQ+ equality. The Equality Index tracks the status of LGBTQ+ rights, laws, and freedoms, along with public attitudes toward LGBTQ+ people around the world. 

Amnesty International.  An international organization dedicated to preventing and ending human rights abuses worldwide. They publish current articles and reports on human rights issues across the globe, making it a useful resource for finding the most up-to-date information about a country.

IGLTA (International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association).  An organization dedicated to advancing LGBTQ+ tourism and promoting equality worldwide. They offer LGBTQ+ tailored travel guides, safety recommendations as well as highlight events, tours and accommodations that are welcoming to the community.

Western Governments.  Many Western countries provide detailed and up-to-date guidance for LGBTQ+ travelers. We often review multiple sources before a trip to compare perspectives and gather the most current information.

• US Department of State 

• UK Government Guidance 

• Government of Canada

• Smart Traveller Australia 

Precautions for Unfriendly Destinations 

When traveling as a same sex couple to destinations that may be less accepting, especially in places where being gay is criminalized or punishable by law, we have taken a number of difficult but necessary precautions before and during our trips to help maximize our safety.

Review Accommodations.  Book stays with well reviewed hosts or at international hotel chains. Make sure accommodations have separate beds or multiple bedrooms. This raises fewer questions and prevents assumptions. Make sure both beds or bedrooms look utilized. 

Expect Personal Questions.  Expect people to ask personal or insinuating questions. Plan responses and rehearse them for times when it could be dangerous to share the truth. If traveling as a  same sex couple, decide who responds to avoid answering at the same time. Here are some common questions we’ve been asked and the responses we’ve given:

• Question 1. “Are you gay?” 

• Response 1. “No” Respond firmly and seem insulted. Quickly change the subject, end the conversation or remove yourselves from the situation. 

• Question 2. “Are you married?” 

• Response 2. “No. I prefer to be single.” This answers the question and redirects the conversation away from related follow up questions. 

• Question 3.  “Are you a couple?” 

• Response 3.  “No. We’re step siblings.” This answers the question and creates slight moment of awkwardness for the person asking. It helps explain why you seem close, look different and have different last names.

Never Volunteer Information. We enjoy meeting people while traveling, but in certain places it’s important to keep your distance and be careful about what you share. Avoid volunteering personal information, as there is a risk of entrapment, miscommunication or someone overhearing.

Have A Code Word.  When traveling as a same sex couple, we often use a code word or phrase to quietly raise our alert or let the other know we’re uncomfortable in a situation. Choose a phrase that can be easily woven into conversation. Often, we would say something related to “ice cream.” Some examples being, “I’m craving ice cream.” or “Let’s find somewhere to get ice cream.” 

Avoid PDA. Avoid all displays of public affection such as standing too close to one another, making long eye contact, holding hands, kissing, using pet names, etc. 

Manage Your Appearance.  Remove wedding rings or leave them at home before traveling. Dress modestly, either try to blend in or look like the average tourist. Avoid wearing shorts, most of the world wears pants. Don’t wear anything with rainbows or LGBTQ+ symbols. 

Social Media.  Make social media accounts private and log out before entering or exiting immigration. Avoid sharing profiles with strangers. Avoid tagging locations if posting while in the country. 

Stay In Contact.  Maintain contact and communication with close family or friends back home. Share your itinerary and travel documents before traveling and send daily updates with selfies while traveling. 

Register With Your Embassy.  Register your travel plans with your country’s embassy or consulate prior to traveling. Save their location and keep their contact information accessible during your travels. 

Purge Devices. Remove photographs together from home and lock screens. Hide or remove photos and certain apps. Turn off fingerprint and Face ID. Lock devices and apps with passcodes. Turn off devices when transiting immigration. Do not completely wipe your devices. All of this helps if your device is lost, stolen or confiscated. 

Have A Burner Phone.  Purging devices takes a lot of work. The easiest alternative is bringing an old phone with minimal information stored on it. 

Final Thoughts… 

We’ve learned not to let who we are keep us from exploring the world and experiencing new cultures. Safety is always a priority when we travel, especially in destinations that may be less accepting. These precautions have helped us many times, but ultimately it comes down to your own judgment and comfort level. To quote Anthony Bourdain, "Travel isn't always pretty. It isn't always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that's okay. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind."

Traveling During Covid: Lessons from Pandemic Era Travel

Reflecting on Lockdown 

Early during the lockdown, we remember looking into the sky and not seeing a single airplane for weeks. The Covid pandemic induced travel bans, flight cancellations and lockdowns seemed to cause the world to stand still. Eventually as lockdowns eased and countries re-opened, we managed to travel domestically and internationally once more. Looking back on those days, there are several habits that have become routine each time we travel. 

Travel Precautions & Considerations. No one likes getting sick before or while traveling. Having traveled during the Covid pandemic, some precautions became routine. 

• Don’t Travel When Sick.  It should be obvious but don’t travel when sick. You risk getting those around you sick, getting sicker while traveling or not being able to access medical care. 

• Carry PPE.  We often travel with multiple KN95 masks, hand sanitizer, sanitary wipes and cold/allergy meds. These all come in handy while traveling in the case of encountering a sick passenger or coming down with a cold while traveling. 

• Travel Etiquette.  Cover your mouth while coughing or sneezing and/or wear a KN95 mask. 

• No Shoes Indoors.  Don’t wear shoes indoors. They track in germs, bacteria, dirt, etc. Leave them at the door when entering your accommodation. 

Entry Requirements & Vaccines.  Though the pandemic is over, many countries have specific entry requirements for travelers including vaccines and regional regulations.

• Vaccines.  Stay up to date on required vaccines and recommended medications, especially while traveling to tropical zones. Many countries require the Yellow Fever Vaccine and recommend antimalarial pills. 

• Stay Up-to-Date.  Though the Covid pandemic is over, there are often regional outbreaks of other diseases (M-Pox, Ebola, Hantavirus). Be aware of what’s happening in the world prior to traveling. 

• Thermal Scanners.  Many airports have thermal scanners to temperature check arriving passengers and potentially quarantine them. 

Protect Your Travel Bookings.  Play it safe and book the refundable option, pay for travel protection and get travel insurance while planning trips and making bookings.

• Book the Refundable Option.  Whenever booking travel, opt for the slightly more expensive “refundable option.” Even post-pandemic, this has saved us from losing out on bookings we’ve needed to cancel. 

• Pay for Travel Protection.  Many airlines and booking sites offer the option to “protect your flight/stay” during check out. We frequently purchase this for peace of mind. It’s been useful on cancelled flights and re-booking accommodations. 

• Credit Card Insurance.  Complete bookings with travel credit cards. They often include insurance that can help rebook a flight/stay or get full refunds for situations out of your control. The Chase Sapphire Reservehas been our best friend in tough situations. 

• Travel Insurance.  For extended trips, we’ve used World Nomads. It’s more cost effective than other travel insurance agencies though not well reviewed. Thankfully we’ve never needed to file a claim. 

• Pro Tip.  Download the insurance policy and read through it thoroughly before traveling to have an understanding of what’s covered, how to document an incident and how to file a claim.

Alternatives to Travel.  Unable to freely travel abroad during the pandemic, we began exploring other ways to experience other cultures and different parts of the world. These are some of our favorites that we still do today:

• Online Cooking Classes.  Virtual cooking classes are great ways to connect with other cultures and people around the world without having to travel. During the pandemic, we took multiple cooking classes to experience the food and culture in other countries. 

• Travel on Google Maps.  Choose a random location on the map and tour the streets of a foreign city or countryside, popping into places with photo spheres or street views. Start here and explore the remote South Atlantic island of St. Helena.

• Plan Future Trips.  Read travel blogs and magazines, watch travel shows and YouTube videos, scroll social media for travel content, plan itineraries for future travel. 

• Go Near.  Explore your own backyard, walk down the road less traveled, go on urban hikes or visit nearby nature sights and parks. It’s fun to reacquaint yourself with your local surroundings. 

• Start a Travel Blog.  With the spare time, we started Afar Atlas as a way to remember and relive our past travels. Since then, Afar Atlas has grown into a full travel site with travel guides and resources from our adventures around the world. Pick out a Squarespace template and start blogging!

Post Covid Travel.  Though the Covid pandemic is over and lockdowns feel like a distant history, we’re continually reminded to be smart and safe about how to travel. It’s given us a stronger appreciation for being able to travel to far away places, experience different cultures and interact with other travelers. 

Sustainable Travel Tips for Lower Impact, More Meaningful Trips

Our Impact

No matter the reason for traveling, there is always a reason to do so sustainably. Traveling sustainably is a great way to lower our negative impact on the environment and help preserve the ecosystems around us. Knowing how to do so and putting it into practice is not difficult, nor does it have to be expensive. Even small changes to how we travel can minimize our impact in a big way and help build more sustainable habits.

Travel & Transportation 

Air travel is often the most efficient way to get to a far away destination but it’s easily the largest contributor of emissions while traveling. There are multiple ways to help reduce or offset your emissions on a global and local scale. 

Use Google Flights.  Google Flights allows travelers to search for flights based on emissions. Each departing and returning flight option lists the percentage of increase or decrease in emissions depending on the flight you choose. 

Choose Direct Flights.  The more times you take off, the more fuel is burned resulting in extra emissions. Choose direct flights whenever possible, especially for traveling short distances. 

Purchase Carbon Offsets.  Carbon offsets do not reduce emissions but are designed to counteract them by investing in green energy, planting trees and funding the protection of vulnerable species and environments. Most major global airlines offer ways to purchase carbon offsets separately from your tickets either on their site or through a partner company.

Travel by Bus or Train.  If you’re traveling regionally, look into buses or trains. In some cases, these are often comparable in time, more cost effective and result in fewer emissions than air travel. 

Bike, Walk or Hike.  Once at a destination, opt to bike, walk or hike. In addition to being the best way to see and experience a new place, it results in little to no emissions. 

Take Public Transit.  Use local public transportation like buses, metros or shuttles as opposed to renting a car. 

Eco Car Rentals.  If renting a car, choose the eco model or electric option. 

Choosing Where to Stay

Research your destination and the options available. We often stay at small and communal accommodations like hostels, eco-hotels, campgrounds, treehouses and bed and breakfasts. They typically have the least negative environmental impact and often benefit the local community. 

Stay at a Hostel.  Hostels often have a low environmental impact. They typically consume less energy and produce less waste than traditional hotels. In many cases, they’re run by locals who care for and promote their community, culture and environment. Hostel World and Booking are great places to discover hostels while traveling. 

Book an Airbnb.  Our favorite place to search for accommodations is Airbnb. You can search by property types including houses, apartments, guesthouses and hotels. It’s common to find hostels, private rooms and entire spaces as well as more unique stays like earth homes, cabins, huts, tents and treehouses. These types of listings are often sustainable and make for unique places to stay.

Look for Eco Ratings.  Many hotels, whether large chains or small boutiques, may have eco ratings for certain environmental policies such as using renewable energy, low flow fixtures or simply recycling. Some booking sites allow travelers to search and filter by eco ratings such as Booking andExpedia. 

Accommodations to Avoid.  Avoid booking cruises and stays at mega resorts or big hotels without eco-friendly ratings. These accommodations tend to generate higher emissions and more waste, especially in developing areas. 

Sustainable Habits & Activities 

Outside of getting to the destination and where you stay, there are a number of ways to minimize your emissions, waste and negative environmental impact while travel planning and at your destination. 

When to Travel.  Travel to a place during the shoulder or off seasons. This helps limit the strain on the environment and local community. We’ve found you’ll often have a much more enjoyable time with fewer crowds, better service and be able to make stronger connections with local culture and other travelers. 

Water Usage.  Be mindful of water usage, especially in regions of the world with water scarcity or supply issues. Some helpful habits are to take shorter showers, turn off faucets while grooming and wash full loads of laundry.

Electrical Usage.  Turn off the AC, heater, TV and lights when not in your accommodation. 

Hotel Laundry.  Avoid requesting new/extra towels or sheets until your third or fourth day to avoid an extra wash and dry cycle. 

Water Bottles.  Bring a reusable water bottle and metal straw to avoid using plastic bottles and single-use straws. 

Waste/Recycling.  Recycle when possible. Pay attention to waste/recycling bins and what products are actually recyclable as they often differ from country to country.

Clean Ups.  Participate in a beach, trail or roadside clean up. Whether on your own or with a local organization, bring a bag and collect as much waste as you can carry in it. Recycle what you can.

Low Impact Activities.  Participate in low impact activities like visiting museums or parks, go on a picnic, take a snorkeling lesson, go hiking or stargazing. Avoid high impact activities like jet skiing, quad tours and scenic flights. 

Souvenirs & Shopping.  Search for locally made souvenirs as opposed to mass produced ones seen everywhere. Try visiting vintage shops, local markets, art galleries and boutiques. Bring home handmade, useful or edible items instead of tchotchkes. 

Use Eco-Friendly Toiletries.  Wear reef safe sunblock and eco-friendly insect repellent free of harmful chemicals and aerosols, especially when visiting bodies of water. Use travel as an excuse to research the products you use regularly for eco-ratings.

Eat Plant Based.  Eat more plant based and locally sourced meals. Visit a farmers market for local produce. Don’t waste food, always take home leftovers or give them to someone in need. 

Back Home

Many of these sustainable efforts can be practiced back home and continue to minimize our negative environmental impact on a daily basis. The privilege to travel is a wonderful thing, and doing it sustainably helps ensure that the environment, as well as the cultures and species it supports, have a better chance at being preserved for future generations.

How to Find Cheap Flights: A Practical Flight Booking Checklist

Cheap Flights Checklist

Finding cheap flights can be hit or miss but persistence and flexibility are key to finding the best fares. Follow our checklist for well learned tips and travel hacks to book the most affordable flights.

Where & How to Track Flights 

Websites to Track Flights.  We always begin tracking flights on Google Flights. The search by map and calendar features make it easy to visually choose a destination and time to go. We also like comparing across travel search engines like Skyscanner and Hopper. Lastly, search directly on the airline’s websites. Some airlines have better routes and prices that don’t always show up on flight tracking websites.

Track Multiple Destinations.  If you’re like us and have a travel bucket list, track flights to multiple destinations around when you’re planning to travel. This also helps us learn what prices are considered low or high to various places during different times of the year. This method works for near term and distant travel dates. 

• Tracking Ahead.  If you plan on traveling in several months from now and want to go somewhere tropical, track flights to various tropical destinations during that time and book the most affordable option. 

• Tracking Last Minute.  The same method works for spontaneous trips. If you’re planning a getaway this weekend, track flights from your nearest airport to any destinations reachable from there. Sometimes you’ll be surprised to find a very affordable last minute flight.

Know The Best Dates & Times to Travel

Have Flexible Dates and Times.  Be flexible when searching for flights. Sometimes departing a day earlier or later can mean spending hundreds of dollars less. This is true of the time of day, especially on well traveled routes. 

Book the Red Eye Flight.  It might not be the most comfortable time of day to travel, especially if you can’t sleep on airplanes, however the prices almost always cost less in the middle of the night than during mornings or afternoons. 

Travel on Grim Dates.  Flights are almost always cheaper on days like Friday the 13th or September 11th, especially if booking months out. 

Travel During the Shoulder or Off Seasons.  The weather might not be “perfect” but that doesn’t mean you won’t enjoy your trip. We’ve often enjoyed smaller crowds, better service and made stronger connections with local culture and other travelers during the off season.  

Plan a Season Ahead.  Track and book flights months ahead of time, ideally the season before most travelers have even given it any thought. For example, we begin tracking spring break trips around Thanksgiving, summer travels during the holidays before the New Year and fall getaways during the late spring and early summer.

Travel Abroad on Thanksgiving.  If you’re traveling from the United States, international flights are frequently more affordable on Thanksgiving while most travelers are flying domestically. 

Don’t Wait to Book.  If you feel good about a ticket’s price, don’t wait to book it. Chances are the price won’t be available 24 hours later, especially if it seems too good to be true. Most flights, even if non-refundable, are fully refundable within 24 hours if you change your mind of find a better flight elsewhere. Alternately, some airlines offer the option to “freeze” a price for up to 72 hours for a small fee. 

Consider Your Departure & Destination Locations 

Check Multiple Airports.  Many major hubs have multiple airports. Flights to and from the smaller or lesser desired airport may be the more affordable option. If you’re based in-between multiple regional airports, flights from one vs the other may make all the difference, even if more distant than your nearest airport.

Book One Way Flights.  If you plan it right, one way flights with separate airlines are occasionally cheaper than round trip flights with the same airline. This is especially true if traveling between multiple destinations before returning home.

Avoid Skiplagging.  Skiplagging is when you book a flight with a layover but stay in the connecting city. Travelers do this when the connecting route costs less than the direct route. While not illegal, airlines often impose hefty fees, cancel remaining legs of the journey or ban passengers from flying with them. 

Choosing An Airline 

Book the Budget Airline.  We’ve all heard of or have our own horror story from booking with a budget airline. Though there’s usually less leg room, higher baggage fees and less flexibility, most flights depart without issue. The biggest risk is an overbooked flight, a risk worth taking for booking at a significantly lesser cost. If unfamiliar with the budget airline, research recent customer experiences on review sites or Reddit.

Be Aware of Baggage Fees.  We rarely check a bag however we always verify baggage fees and restrictions. They frequently change between airlines and countries. Before booking, confirm how many bags are included, what the weight and size restrictions are, if they can be carried on or have to be checked. Fees can quickly add up if you’re not paying attention. 

Check for Stopover Programs.  Several airlines offer free stopovers, discounted stays or city tours when stopping over in their home city or country. Taking advantage of them is a great way to fit in an additional destination en route to your planned destination.  

Lottery Upgrades.  Some airlines offer a lottery to upgrade flights to a premium seat up to a week before the flight departs. Place a bid, usually a few dollars higher than the recommended bid to win a chance at upgrading for significantly less than the actual cost. 

Volunteer if Asked.  We’ve earned hundreds of dollars in flight vouchers and Visa cards on multiple occasions by volunteering to take the next flight on overbooked flight. Though not common, it can really pay off if not in a rush.

Earn Points by Traveling 

Sign Up for Frequent Flyer Programs.  Most airlines have their own frequent flyer or mileage program to earn points towards booking future flights and covering baggage fees. Several airlines are part of the same network or alliance making it easier to consolidate points if booking with different airlines. Though it can take years to accumulate a meaningful amount of points, simply signing up comes with perks. We’ve received free upgrades, been assigned better seats and received refunds or travel credits on otherwise non-refundable flights.

Use Travel Credit Cards.  Sign up for a travel credit card to earn points that cover the cost of flights and other travel related expenses. We have multiple travel credit cards but routinely use two over others. 

• Chase Sapphire Reserve.  A premium travel credit card with steep annual fees but generous travel credits. Amongst other perks, it comes with a Priority Pass that offers access to many airport lounges. Any travel related expenses earn 3 points per dollar spent on the card. Over time, it adds up and more than pays itself off. 

• Capital One Venture.  A travel credit card with minimal annual fees and easy ways to build a bank of points. Any travel related expenses earn 2 points per dollar spent on the card. Their daily shopping offers provide generous points multipliers on various purchases including car rentals and booking platforms like Viator, Get Your Guide, Booking and Expedia. 

Persistence & Flexibility

If you’ve read this far, you can tell there are many ways to find the most affordable flights. It’s often a combination of methods on our checklist, the most important of which is persistence and flexibility. Being persistent about finding cheap flights and willing to be flexible to book them is often what lands us the best fares. 

Bali Travel Guide: Canggu, Beaches & Island Adventures

Bali, Indonesia

Bali is an Indonesian island known for its rich culture, ancient Hindu temples, volcanic landscapes, black sand beaches, surf breaks and expat communities. During our two week trip, we ventured to various areas around the island including the relaxing seaside neighborhood of Canggu, the tropical palm covered Gili Islands, the cliffside Bukit Peninsula and cultural hub of Ubud. Whether a local, expat or traveler, Bali is truly a paradise worth visiting and falling in love with.

Canggu 

Canggu is a trendy place home to many expats, digital nomads and surf enthusiasts, making it a great place to meet other travelers. Luxury villas, cute shops and vegan cafés flank the narrow streets of the rapidly developing neighborhood. Its shoreline is hugged by black sand beaches while lush rice paddies grow alongside interior roads. Soak up tropical vibes at beach clubs, enjoy the serene atmosphere at coastal temples and dine at the neighborhood’s many restaurants and bars. 

Black Sand Beaches 

Black sand beaches stretch along Canggu’s coastline. They’re home to numerous surf shacks, restaurants with chair and umbrella rental and bustling beach clubs. Friendly stray dogs roam the beach looking for food and pets. 

Batu Bolong & Canggu Beach.  Easily the most popular and beautiful beach in Canggu. There are plenty of restaurants, bars and beach clubs to find a lounge for the afternoon, meet other travelers, stay for the sunset and enjoy the overall tropical vibes. Surfers flock to the beginner and intermediate surf breaks while kiosks rent boards and offer lessons. 

Echo Beach.  A black sand beach with a seaside temple and a small cliff lined with cafés, barbecue restaurants and surf rentals. It’s a very popular spot at sunset. 

Berawa Beach.  A smaller and quieter beach where a river lets out into the ocean. It’s nestled away from the larger clubs and dense line of beach shacks and surf schools. Fishing boats dot the shore while vendors rent sun lounges and umbrellas. 

Beach Clubs & Sunsets 

Beach clubs are a very popular way to enjoy the Balinese beaches, escape the afternoon heat and party at night. They can range from small oceanfront shacks offering lounges and drinks to large open air buildings with infinity pools, live music and several bars.

Sand Bar.  A small but lively beach club at Batu Bolong Beach with colorful picnic tables and lounges, inexpensive food and ice cold Bintangs, Bali’s regional beer. It’s a great spot to enjoy the sunset and watch surfers. 

The Lawn.  A casual beachside restaurant known for its faux lawn, infinity pool and palm shaded beach lounges. They serve happy hour cocktails, sharable plates and healthy meals.

Finn’s Beachclub.  A large, high-end and popular beach club recognized by its giant sign and thatched building. Finn’s is home to several pools, restaurants and bars often playing live music. You pay a hefty cover to get in which reserves your lounge or table and can be used towards ordering food and drinks.

Temples & Offerings 

The Balinese are very spiritual people, mostly practicing Hinduism. Their island is home to thousands of temples with small altars at the entrance to their homes and businesses. Locals leave daily offerings on sidewalks made from small leaf woven baskets containing flowers, burning incense, cookies, candies and money. Out of respect, make sure not to step on them. 

Tanah Lot Temple.  One of seven ocean temples surrounding Bali. It holds special importance to the Balinese, built to protect the island from evil sea spirits. The temple is perched on a rock formation only accessible during low tide. Non-Balinese are not allowed to enter but can view from the nearby cliffs and outcrops below. Vendors line the road leading up to the temple selling young coconuts, Klepon, offerings and souvenirs. 

Markets & Shops

Craft markets and boutique shops are common across Bali and especially in Canggu. A few we loved visiting for handmade goods and local souvenirs are: 

Love Anchor Canggu.  An expansive indoor market with booths and vendors selling locally made home goods and crafts like macrame, shell and coconut home goods, flowy dresses and sarongs, beach jewelry and all the expected souvenirs. You’ll often be offered a “special price.” Play along, haggle and never accept the first price. 

Sunday Market.  A Sunday afternoon and evening market with live music, performers and vendors selling organic produce, cooked foods and handmade goods. 

La Brisa Sunday Market.  A small but bustling Sunday market at the La Brisa restaurant. It offers a combination of goods found at the Love Anchor and Sunday Markets. 

Things to Do 

Take a Surf Lesson.  The best surf lessons can be found by walking any of Canggu’s beaches. Many instructors and surf shacks have signs offering board rentals and 2 hour lessons. It’s best to go early, just after sunrise, to avoid the large groups. 

Join a Beach Cleanup.  At times, the currents carry in tons of plastic waste floating in the ocean. Join a beach cleanup or simply do your part to pick up any plastic you see. 

Enjoy a Floating Brunch.  Making time for a floating brunch is a must do in Bali. It’s a poolside meal artfully presented in a floating basket. It typically includes fresh fruits and juices, fluffy pancakes, eggs and various Balinese bites.

Get a Massage.  Various types of massages are offered throughout Canggu and Bali in general for an affordable cost. Look for signs outside of businesses offering a 60 minute or signature massage. It’s not uncommon to find one for around $10 USD. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Canggu is known for its food scene. There are endless options to try traditional Balinese food, locally grown fruits, vegan meals and Australian inspired “brekkie.”

Shady Shack.  Located across from a rice field in an outdoor patio covered in tropical trees and plants. The menu is full of all kinds of colorful and creative vegan dishes. This is the perfect spot to come for Bali bowls and to drink kombucha through a papaya stem straw.

La Brisa.  A beachside restaurant with a large open air patio that feels more like a tropical tree house. The food and drinks here are delicious and the vibe was relaxing even during the busier hours of service. Like many places in Canggu, the sunset here was spectacular. 

Monsieur Spoon.  A café with French style pastries, breads and egg dishes. Their spacious outdoor patio makes it the perfect place to start the day or enjoy an afternoon coffee.  

Milk & Madu.  A great restaurant at any time of day but especially at breakfast for their delicious egg dishes and flavorful coffee.

Where to Stay in Canggu 

The narrow streets and rice paddies of Canggu are flanked by multitudes of villas and vacation rentals, many of which can be booked affordably. We stayed in a modern villa with private units and communal spaces like a lush patio and swimming pool. Book on Airbnb. 

Getting Around Canggu 

Scooters.  The fastest way to get around Canggu is by scooter. Multiple shops rent scooters and moto bikes by the day, week and month. Prices range on average $10 per day. For safety and to avoid fines, always wear a helmet while riding and carry your ID. 

On Foot.  Canggu is walkable by those that enjoy exploring on foot. Be mindful of speeding scooters and cars. Carry a flashlight when walking at night. 

Traffic.  The narrow roads are often congested during rush hour.

Bukit Peninsula 

The Bukit Peninsula is the southernmost point in Bali. It’s known for its swimmable beaches, dramatic cliffs, grilled seafood markets and high end restaurants. 

Visit the Beaches 

We visited a lot of beaches in Bali however the ones on the Bukit Peninsula were some of our favorite! 

Padang Padang Beach.  A small swimmable beach nestled in a protected cove. The beach is great for sunbathing with little shade, though there are umbrella and chair rentals available from vendors. Warungs offer affordable snacks, meals and fresh coconuts to drink out of and eat.

Good to Know.  The beach is accessible via a set of stairs built within the crevice of the cliff above. There is a small cash only entrance fee to access the beach. Watch out for monkeys on steps and near the tree line. They’re mischievous and will try to snatch your belongings. 

Nyang Nyang Beach East.  A sandy beach with shallow waters perfect for swimming, lounging and watching paragliders take flight overhead. The most notable sight on the beach is the graffitied remains of a washed up shipwreck. There are a few small warungs along the beach and trail leading to it offering snacks and drinks. 

Getting Here.  The beach is accessible via a lush cliffside trail behind the Villa Plenilunino. Use this Google Map Pinto locate the trailhead. 

Nyang Nyang Beach.  A remote and lengthy golden sand beach nestled beneath a verdant cliff overlooking the Indian Ocean. It's separated into two halves by jagged rocks. 

Nyang Nyang Beach West.  This beach is perfect for near total seclusion. The sounds of large crashing waves make it a calming place to sunbathe but dangerous to swim. The sandy shoreline transitions into bedrock at the water with rock pools during low tide. The beach is relatively undeveloped though some warungs, bars and hotels have recently popped up selling beverages, snacks and offering a shaded retreat from the sun.

Getting Here.  The beach takes some effort to reach. It’s only accessible on foot or by scooter via a steep gravel roadway just beyond the Nyang Nyang Beach Parking Lot. 

Things to Do

Nyang Nyang Paragliding.  The southern winds hitting Nyang Nyang’s cliff make it an ideal spot for paragliding. Tandem flights soar several hundred feet above the dramatic cliffs and rugged coastline flanked by deep blue ocean. If the conditions are right, the pilot will perform some aerobatics such as spiraling and spinning the parachute. Our flight lasted 20 minutes and included a package of photos and videos. Book ahead of time with Bali Paragliding Tandem. 

Jimbaran Seafood.  Jimbaran Beach is home to a fishing village lined with restaurants, vendors and kiosks barbecuing all types of freshly caught and live seafood. Smoke wafts through the air from large grills while cooks fan smoldering coconut husks. We shared a platter with a whole crab, prawns, barracuda and oysters plated on a banana leaf. 

Good to Know.  The best options are located towards the south end of the beach. The seafood is cheaper, the atmosphere is more local and you can dine directly on the beach. Avoid the higher end restaurants towards the north side, they’re tourist traps.

Bali High Tea.  For an elevated experience, visit the Orchid Tea Lounge, a tea room in a modern greenhouse decorated with hundreds of blooming orchids. The tea service was especially cute with all the cakes, sandwiches and treats either wrapped in or served on banana leaves. Make a reservation ahead of time.

Getting Around Bukit 

The Bukit Peninsula is a remote area of Bali accessible by car and scooter. Its hilly landscape and congested roads make it difficult and time consuming to get around. 

By Taxi.  Hire a taxi driver while exploring the peninsula. They will wait for you after drop offs and be on call to pick you up. Taxis typically cost between $30-50 USD per day. Make sure to negotiate price ahead of time. 

Rent a Scooter.  Like throughout the rest of Bali, you can get around on a scooter. The only difference in the peninsula is that most places charge a small parking fee between $1-2 USD. 

Where to Stay in Bukit 

Magical Vintage Treehouse.  A rustic treehouse surrounded by a massive mango tree with branches that poke through the walls, floor boards and ceiling. There is a shared pool between the treehouse and neighboring villas as well as a restaurant and bakery serving a mix of fresh fruits, traditional Balinese and French cuisine. Book on Airbnb. 

The Gili Islands 

The Gili Islands, often called “The Gilis” are a series of three tiny islands off the coast of Lombok. Their sleepy atmosphere and unique vibes make them relaxing places to experience Indonesian culture and the tropical environment. We spent four days here but could have easily stayed for weeks. 

Gili Trawangan.  Also known as “Gili T,” this is the largest of The Gilis. It’s the most popular place to stay with many boutique hotels, vacation rentals, seaside restaurants, outdoor cafés and beachfront bars. The main town spans across the eastern side of the island while lush palm groves cover its interior. Colorful boats and outriggers line white sand beaches wrapping around the island’s perimeter. 

Gili Air.  A largely developed island with numerous options for accommodations, dining, nightlife and marine activities. It’s located just across from Lombok with uninterrupted views of Mt. Rinjani. 

Gili Meno.  The smallest, quietest and most relaxing of The Gilis. It’s located in between Gili T and Gili Air. It's home to white sand beaches, turquoise waters, snorkeling points, palm groves, local warangs and rental villas. 

Gili T Beaches 

The island is essentially one giant beach paradise! Based on location, here’s our breakdown to exploring the different corners of the island.

Eastern Coast.  The most commercialized coastline on the island spanning the length of the town. It's easily accessible and lined with hundreds of sun lounges, beach umbrellas and small boats. Its white sand shore is perfect for sunbathing while its shallow turquoise waters are ideal for swimming and lounging.

Turtle Point.  Located on the northeast corner of the island, this is the best place to spot sea turtles! The shallow warm waters are home to sea grass where sea turtles feed. Rent a standup paddle or kayak and quietly wait in the water for a turtle to swim by. Arrive before 10am to avoid the large crowds and loud boats from the snorkel tours.

Northern Coast.  Most beaches here are private for guests of the nearby resorts and hotels. 

Northwestern Coast.  Beaches here attract smaller crowds than elsewhere on the island making them a peaceful place to relax. There are numerous beachfront restaurants and bars offering places to dine and drink. 

Southwestern Coast.  An area with the best views of Bali’s silhouette and Indian Ocean sunsets. Many diving tours frequent the waters on this side of the island to spot manta rays and sharks. 

Southern Coast.  A narrow stretch of shoreline covered in piles of washed up corals.

Things to Do

Snorkeling Tour.  Many restaurants, dive schools and guides along the main street on Gili T will offer inexpensive snorkel tours around The Gilis. We snorkeled around the coast of Gili Meno where we spotted an incredible array of tropical fish, jumped from the boat’s rooftop and visited The Nest, an artificial reef comprised of human figures standing in a circle. After snorkeling, we stopped at Gili Air for a beachfront lunch. 

Acrylic Kayaking.  Rent an acrylic kayak and paddle around Turtle Point to spot sea turtles feeding in the sea grass.

Pro Tip. Select the kayak with minimal scratches on the bottom. The more scratches, the less you’ll actually be able to see through it. 

Stand Up Paddle.  Rent a stand up paddle and explore the strait between Gili T and Gili M. The water is usually calm making it easy to balance. This was another fun way to spot sea turtles.

Watch the Sunset.  There are a number of beach clubs, restaurants and hotels with lounges, ocean swings and patios on the west and southwest sides of the island to watch the sunset.

Get a Bamboo Tattoo.  A bamboo tattoo is a traditional hand poked tattoo. Visit NoA The Master of the Bamboo Tattoo for some new ink. The process is sanitary and clean. We watched the artist disinfect all of his tools and present us with an unopened package containing the needles he used for our tattoos. It’s worth it for the authentic experience!

Take a Cooking Class.  One of the best meals we had on Gili T was the one we cooked ourselves. Several beachfront restaurants in town offer 2 hour cooking classes to prepare multiple Indonesian staples including: Fried Tempe and Tofu, Mie Goreng, Pepes Ikan and Klepon.

Places to Eat & Drink

Le Pirate.  A small resort on the northwest of the island with a beachfront restaurant serving Indonesian dishes and freshly harvested coconuts. Come here for lunch while biking around the island! 

Tiki Grove.  A tiki themed restaurant located in the palm covered interior of the island. Come for the fish tacos, live music and traditional tiki drinks. 

Pink Coco.  A beach club on the southwest side of the island with pink colored decor and beanbags lining the sand. It’s a popular place to watch the sunset while sipping on a Bintang or cocktail. 

Where to Stay in Gili T

Melati Cottage.  A traditional hotel with several wooden cottages located steps from the beach. The simple cottages each have a comfy bed, outdoor shower and deck front patio. The hosts offer daily bike rentals and pick up from the ferry terminal. Book on Airbnb. 

Getting Around The Gilis 

Speed Boats.  Speed boats are the fastest, safest and most hassle free way to get between Bali and the Gili Islands. There are a number of companies and departure points along the East side of Bali offering transportation from anywhere on the island to The Gilis. We booked roundtrip tickets with Blue Water Express.

Island Hopping.  Public boats ferry passengers between each island’s main harbors at infrequent times from 9am to 4pm. Standard Boats takes about 30 minutes and cost around $5 one way. Fast Boats take about 15 minutes and cost around $10 one way.

Rent a Bike.  Cars are forbidden on The Gilis making bicycles the most efficient way of getting around. The largest of the islands, Gili T can be crossed in 15 minutes or circled in under an hour. Most accommodations rent bikes for around $5-10 USD per day. 

Indonesian Cuisine 

Warungs.  An Indonesian style restaurant serving a buffet of dishes and prepared plates. They’re often spotted along the roadside offering inexpensive meals and traditional Balinese cuisine. 

Bali Bowls.  Also called smoothie bowls, they’re made from mixtures of puréed frozen fruits and often decorated in fresh fruit, grains and flowers. They’re a healthy, filling and refreshing way to start the day. Almost every café offers their own versions.

Klepon.  A green gelatinous rice ball with melted palm sugar inside and a coconut shaved exterior. 

Nasi Goreng.  Vegetable fried rice, an Indonesian staple commonly served on menus around the country. It’s a popular breakfast dish.

Mi Goreng.  The same as nasi goreng, except made with noodles instead of rice. 

Gado Gado.  Lightly steamed or boiled vegetables served with a spicy peanut sauce. 

Batagor.  Fried banana, tempeh or tofu stuffed with glass noodles and veggies. It’s a very common street food dish in East Java and eaten for breakfast or a midday snack. 

Tempeh.  Fermented and sprouted soybeans formed into a protein patty or block. A common preparation is Tempeh Lada Hitam, tempeh cooked in a black pepper sauce.

Sayur Lodeh.  A spiced coconut stew cooked with tempeh, eggplant, tomatoes and green beans. 

Bintang.  Indonesia’s national beer. It’s a light beer perfect for the perpetually hot afternoons and evenings.

Sambal.  Indonesians love spicy food. The source of the heat is often sambal, a minced mixture of Thai chili peppers, shallots and garlic.

Location Specifics 

When to Visit. Visit during the dry season, from May to October. The weather is sunny and bright most days with the occasional afternoon storm.

Plastic Pollution.  With few methods for waste management and recycling, plastic waste and trash often make their way into the waterways, littering beaches, the coast and ocean. 

Shoes Off Indoors.  Like many places in Asia, it’s proper to remove shoes before entering a home or some shops. 

Use Both Hands.  Whenever exchanging anything like credit cards or cash, use both hands as a sign of respect. 

Currency.  Indonesia uses the Indonesian Rupiah. The currency is quantified in the thousands. Many businesses will drop the zeros on a bill. For example, something costing 56,000 Rp may be written as 50. 

Small Bills.  Carry a lot of smaller bills (5K, 10K and 20K) for donations and small fees.

Tipping.  A 10% gratuity usually included in the bill under service. Anything extra is not expected.

General Safety.  Bali is generally a safe place to travel to. The biggest dangers are traffic, natural disasters and overcrowded boats. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  While Bali is very friendly and welcoming to LGBTQ+ travelers, Indonesian laws and customs are not. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice.

Language.  Bahasa Indonesia is the official language in Bali; however many people know English. It’s best to know a few local words and phrases.

• Sukseme = Thank You

• Sama Sama = You’re Welcome

• Selamat Pagi = Good Morning 

• Selamat Siang = Good Afternoon 

• Selamat Sore = Good Evening 

Elsewhere in Indonesia 

From Bali's beaches and island lifestyle to Ubud's cultural heritage, East Java's volcanoes and the Komodo Islands' wild landscapes, discover more of Indonesia through these travel guides:

Komodo Islands Travel Guide: Komodo Dragons, Island Adventures & Marine Life. Explore the Komodo Islands where Komodo dragons, volcanic landscapes, pink sand beaches and coral reefs blend wildlife encounters with island hopping adventures.

East Java Travel Guide: Mount Bromo, Ijen & Tumpak Sewu.  Trek through East Java from Mount Bromo and Ijen Crater to Tumpak Sewu Waterfall, where volcanic landscapes and jungle trails reveal Indonesia's dramatic natural wonders.

Ubud Travel Guide: Rice Terraces, Sacred Temples & Balinese Culture.  Wander through Ubud where expansive rice terraces, jungle trails, volcanic hikes, Hindu temples and the Sacred Monkey Forest preserve the cultural heart of Bali.

For Next Time…

There are near endless things to do and see in Bali. Its unique culture, nature and atmosphere is a place we certainly hope to experience again. When we do, these are a number of the things we’re planning to seek out.

Nusa Islands.  An archipelago of three volcanic islands in the strait between Bali and Lombok. It’s famed for its manta rays, cliff diving points and Kelingking Beach, a beach on Nusa Penida with a T-rex shaped peninsula. 

The Gilis.  We could have spent weeks on The Gilis. Having thoroughly explored Gili T, we would return to experience Gili Air and Gili Meno. 

Uluwatu.  An area of the Bukit Peninsula cliffside beaches like Suluban and Balangan and one of Bali’s most sacred sites, the Uluwatu Temple, where it’s believed that the Hindu gods, Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva become one here.

West Bali Park.  A largely untouched wildlife refuge and jungle on the western side of Bali. The route leading here is dotted with coastal towns and jungleous villages. 

Ubud’s Temples.  We would spend more time exploring the ancient temples in Ubud including:  

• Pura Ulun Danu Bratan.  A series of floating water temples on Lake Bratan accessible by canoe. 

• Pura Taman Saraswati.  A palace water temple surrounded by large lily ponds where the traditional Balinese Legong dance is performed. 

• Goa Gajah.  A 9th century cave temple with extensive carvings and entrance through the overgrown mouth of a demon.

Ubud Travel Guide: Rice Terraces, Sacred Temples & Balinese Culture

Ubud, The Cultural Heart of Bali

Ubud is the cultural heart and adventurous hub of Bali. The region is home to thousands of Hindu temples, ancient sites and Balinese museums where traditions, spirituality and nature merge as one. Hiking trails lead along verdant ridges and to the summits of active volcanoes. Expansive rice terraces and sprawling rice paddies sculpt the landscape and serve as a base for Indonesian cuisine. Eco hotels nestled within the verdant jungle provide one of a kind accommodations. We spent several days exploring Ubud during our two week trip to Bali, experiencing the island’s remarkable culture and nature. 

Eco Tourism

People in Ubud are physically and spiritually connected to nature. They care for their environment, eat, build and farm sustainably. This couldn’t have been any truer than at the eco hotel where we stayed, New Earth Haven. For five days, we lived in an eco-dome made from bamboo, canvas and thatched palm leaves. Separately it had an outdoor shower and composting toilet. The dome was surrounded by rice fields and elevated from the ground. During our stay, we would often wake up to the farmers harvesting rice and herding baby ducks. 

From eco-domes to tree houses and villas in the rice paddies, there are plenty of unique and sustainable places to stay in Ubud. Book your stay in Moonstone Crystal Eco Dome on Airbnb.

Across the rice paddies from our dome is the Akasha Restaurant. An open air restaurant focused on sustainability and vegan cuisine with nightly events and festivals. We came here for many of our meals including smoothie bowls, jackfruit tacos and Indonesian coffee. 

Tegalalang Rice Terraces 

The Tegalalang Rice Terraces are an expansive series of hillside rice paddies that meander organically across the landscape. Trails and walkways weave through the terraces to lookout points, zip lines and jungle swings. We spent hours exploring the terraces and hiking to its furthest corners. At the entrance is a hillside village with restaurants, warungs, cafés and hostels overlooking the terraces. Stop here for breakfast or lunch. 

Pro Tip.  Arrive at the rice terraces by 7am to explore with minimal people and before the large tour groups. 

Good to Know.  Farmers will often ask for a small donation to help support their livelihoods and maintain the walkways. It's best to donate 5k Rp each time.

Sunrise Hike to Mt. Batur 

Mt. Batur is Bali’s second highest peak and still an active volcano. One of the most adventurous things you can do on the island is hike to its summit and watch the sunrise. Wake up just after midnight and drive to the basecamp at the lakeside town of Toya Bungkah. There will be hundreds of guides available for hire. Guides generally cost around 500K - 700K Rp for two people ($35-50 USD).

The Summit.  The entire island of Bali and the nearby island of Lombok are visible from the summit on a clear morning. Hardened lava flows from past eruptions surround the volcano while steam rises from volcanic vents. Wild monkeys roam freely around the crater rim. Vendors sell hot chocolate, coffee, water and various snacks including eggs cooked in the steam vents. Try one if you can, there’s something special about food cooked by a volcano! 

Packing List:

• Shoes.  Wear good hiking shoes for traction. The pathways are covered in loose stones and gravel. 

• Wear Layers.  It is colder the higher you hike in elevation but easy to overheat once the sun rises. 

• Headlamps.  Wear a headlamp to see in the darkness while hiking.

• Water.  Carry at least 1.5 liters of water for the hike. 

• Cash.  Bring local currency to buy snacks or drinks at the summit. 

Sacred Monkey Forest

The Sacred Monkey Forest is covered in massive trees with dangling aerial roots, multiple ancient temples and acts as a sanctuary for hundreds of monkeys. The monkeys are everywhere, climbing in the trees, running across pathways, sitting on benches and making the temples their home. They are playful, mischievous and protective. If you’re not paying attention, one may try and take your phone, bag or hat.

Campuhan Ridge Walk

The Campuhan Ridge Walk is an easy, scenic and lush 2km pathway on top of the Campuhan Ridge. To avoid the sun, we walked the path about two hours before sunset ending during golden hour. Enter on the north side, where there are a number of businesses selling fruit, water, Bintangs and offering massages. End on the south side at the ancient Pura Gunung Lebah Temple.

Tirta Empul Water Temple 

The Tirta Empul Water Temple is a 15th century temple with fountains and baths fed by a natural spring. It has a special importance to the Balinese for its purifying and healing waters. The best way to properly use them is to pay a temple guide for a handmade offering and ask them to explain the ritual process and meaning behind it. It’s well worth the experience to step out of your comfort zone, experience and reflect on whatever you’re thankful for. 

Packing List:

• A Sarong.  Like with many temples across Bali, you need a sarong to cover up with before entering. They’re also available to rent. 

• A Towel.  To dry off with after bathing in the cleansing waters. 

• A Lock.  To secure your belongings in the lockers.

Visit the Museums 

There are multiple museums showcasing Balinese art, artifacts and architecture throughout Ubud. The museums themselves are as much about the grounds and their temples as they are the artwork and artifacts within. 

Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA).  A grand museum with galleries of artwork and paintings created by Balinese artists. The gardens and grounds are lined with sculptures, temples and pavilions where we watched artists painting and carving elaborate wooden reliefs and sculptures. 

Other museums include the Museum Puri Lukisan and Neka Art Museum.

Satria Agrowisata

The Satria Agrowisata is famed for its Luwak Coffee. If you’re unfamiliar, the beans go through quite the process before becoming coffee. The coffee cherries are eaten by civets, a nocturnal cat-like mammal, then partially digested and pooped out. The beans are collected and roasted in small batches before being ground and turned into coffee. It’s an unappealing process but does result in a rich, mellow and flavorful brew worth trying at least once. 

Mason Elephant Park & Lodge 

Mason Elephant Park is home to a herd of rescued Sumatran elephants. We came here to meet, feed and bathe one while it snacked on bamboo. 

Elephant Feeding & Bathing.  After entering the park, we bought small baskets of produce to feed the elephants. It’s the cutest feeling as they use their trunks to take the food from your hands! After feeding, we met Risky, the elephant we scrubbed and bathed from trunk to tail. By the end of the experience, we felt like we had made a new friend but also needed a shower ourselves.

Avoid Elephant Riding.  Many other visitors came to ride an elephant, something we didn’t ethically agree with and would discourage others from doing. Otherwise, the elephants seemed to be treated humanely, well fed and given space to roam.

Buy an Elephant Painting.  Elephants are highly intelligent, creative and social animals. They can even use their trunks to paint. The park has a museum with elephant paintings on display and available for purchase. Needless to say, we now have a painting made by an adolescent elephant named Jegeg hanging in our bedroom. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Mudra Café.  A very cute café near the Monkey Forest offering the most stunning Bali style smoothie bowls and Indonesian coffee in tiki mugs.

Hujan Locale.  An elevated and contemporary Indonesian restaurant serving regional cuisine, flavorful dishes and artisan cocktails. We shared a couple appetizers and a crispy fried whole fish as the main. 

Jungle Fish.  The best way to describe this place is a beach club in the middle of the jungle. The restaurant has an infinity pool overlooking the lush rainforest and multiple levels. The pool bar offers a selection of small plates and 2 for 1 drinks. We sampled every cocktail on the menu falling in love with one wrapped in banana leaves.  

Getting Around Ubud

Many accommodations in Ubud will help arrange transportation for you, especially to and from other areas of the island. Ubud and the surrounding area is vast and hilly making scooters and taxis the easiest way to get around. We often took Bluebird Taxi, known for its metered service, flat fees and street-side taxi stands. 

Indonesian Cuisine 

Warungs.  An Indonesian style restaurant serving a buffet of dishes and prepared plates. They’re often spotted along the roadside offering inexpensive meals and traditional Balinese cuisine. 

Bali Bowls.  Also called smoothie bowls, they’re made from mixtures of puréed frozen fruits and often decorated in fresh fruit, grains and flowers. They’re a healthy, filling and refreshing way to start the day. Almost every café offers their own versions.

Klepon.  A green gelatinous rice ball with melted palm sugar inside and a coconut shaved exterior. 

Nasi Goreng.  Vegetable fried rice, an Indonesian staple commonly served on menus around the country. It’s a popular breakfast dish.

Mi Goreng.  The same as nasi goreng, except made with noodles instead of rice. 

Gado Gado.  Lightly steamed or boiled vegetables served with a spicy peanut sauce. 

Batagor.  Fried banana, tempeh or tofu stuffed with glass noodles and veggies. It’s a very common street food dish in East Java and eaten for breakfast or a midday snack. 

Tempeh.  Fermented and sprouted soybeans formed into a protein patty or block. A common preparation is Tempeh Lada Hitam, tempeh cooked in a black pepper sauce.

Sayur Lodeh.  A spiced coconut stew cooked with tempeh, eggplant, tomatoes and green beans. 

Bintang.  Indonesia’s national beer. It’s a light beer perfect for the perpetually hot afternoons and evenings.

Sambal.  Indonesians love spicy food. The source of the heat is often sambal, a minced mixture of Thai chili peppers, shallots and garlic.

Location Specifics 

When to Visit. Visit during the dry season, from May to October. The weather is sunny and bright most days with the occasional afternoon storm.

Plastic Pollution.  With few methods for waste management and recycling, plastic waste and trash often make their way into the waterways, littering beaches, the coast and ocean. 

Shoes Off Indoors.  Like many places in Asia, it’s proper to remove shoes before entering a home or some shops. 

Use Both Hands.  Whenever exchanging anything like credit cards or cash, use both hands as a sign of respect. 

Currency.  Indonesia uses the Indonesian Rupiah. The currency is quantified in the thousands. Many businesses will drop the zeros on a bill. For example, something costing 56,000 Rp may be written as 50. 

Small Bills.  Carry a lot of smaller bills (5K, 10K and 20K) for donations and small fees.

Tipping.  A 10% gratuity is usually included in the bill under service. Anything extra is not expected.

General Safety.  Bali is generally a safe place to travel to. The biggest dangers are traffic, natural disasters and overcrowded boats. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  While Bali is very friendly and welcoming to LGBTQ+ travelers, Indonesian laws and customs are not. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice.

Language.  Bahasa Indonesia is the official language in Bali; however many people know English. It’s best to know a few local words and phrases.

• Sukseme = Thank You

• Sama Sama = You’re Welcome

• Selamat Pagi = Good Morning 

• Selamat Siang = Good Afternoon 

• Selamat Sore = Good Evening 

Elsewhere in Indonesia 

From Ubud's rice terraces and Hindu temples to Bali's coastline, East Java's dramatic volcanoes and the Komodo Islands' marine adventures, continue your journey through Indonesia with these travel guides:

Komodo Islands Travel Guide: Komodo Dragons, Island Adventures & Marine Life. Explore the Komodo Islands where Komodo dragons, volcanic landscapes, pink sand beaches and coral reefs blend wildlife encounters with island hopping adventures.

East Java Travel Guide: Mount Bromo, Ijen & Tumpak Sewu.  Trek through East Java from Mount Bromo and Ijen Crater to Tumpak Sewu Waterfall, where volcanic landscapes and jungle trails reveal Indonesia's dramatic natural wonders.

Bali Travel Guide: Canggu, Beaches & Island Adventures.  Experience Bali where sacred temples, rice paddies, black sand beaches, surf breaks and vibrant beach clubs embody Balinese culture and island life.

For Next Time…

There are near endless things to do and see in Bali. Its unique culture, nature and atmosphere is a place we certainly hope to experience again. When we do, these are a number of the things we’re planning to seek out.

Nusa Islands.  An archipelago of three volcanic islands in the strait between Bali and Lombok. It’s famed for its manta rays, cliff diving points and Kelingking Beach, a beach on Nusa Penida with a T-rex shaped peninsula. 

The Gilis.  We could have spent weeks on The Gilis. Having thoroughly explored Gili T, we would return to experience Gili Air and Gili Meno. 

Uluwatu.  An area of the Bukit Peninsula cliffside beaches like Suluban and Balangan and one of Bali’s most sacred sites, the Uluwatu Temple, where it’s believed that the Hindu gods, Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva become one here.

West Bali Park.  A largely untouched wildlife refuge and jungle on the western side of Bali. The route leading here is dotted with coastal towns and jungleous villages. 

Ubud’s Temples.  We would spend more time exploring the ancient temples in Ubud including:  

• Pura Ulun Danu Bratan.  A series of floating water temples on Lake Bratan accessible by canoe. 

• Pura Taman Saraswati.  A palace water temple surrounded by large lily ponds where the traditional Balinese Legong dance is performed. 

• Goa Gajah.  A 9th century cave temple with extensive carvings and entrance through the overgrown mouth of a demon.

St. Croix, USVI Travel Guide: Beaches, Snorkeling & Historic Towns

St. Croix, USVI

St. Croix is the largest of the US Virgin Islands. Its hilly and arid landscape is flanked by turquoise bays, white sand beaches and coral reefs. The former Danish colony is home to historic towns, cannon lined forts and the ruins of old sugar mills. It’s escaped the demands of mass tourism seen on neighboring islands, allowing it to maintain its local atmosphere and sleepy vibes. 

Christiansted

Christiansted is the former Danish capital and main town on St. Croix. Historic pastel painted buildings with contrasting wooden shutters line the town’s streets. Brick sidewalks covered by arched walkways lead past shops selling locally made textiles, jewelry, clothes and souvenirs. A colonial era fort overlooks the boat dotted harbor while a boardwalk meanders past restaurants, bars, dive shops and hotels. It has a small town feeling where chickens roam freely and strangers say hello. 

Christiansted Boardwalk.  A waterfront walkway that snakes along Christiansted’s harbor. It’s a bustling place with a series of businesses including dive shops, hotels, restaurants and bars. Many boat tours, fishing charters, dive excursions and seaplanes leave from here. It’s especially lively on weekend evenings.

Fort Christiansvaern.  A well preserved Danish fortress with yellow painted walls, green wooden shutters, wrought iron hinges and a series of cannons pointed towards the sea. Arched passageways lead to the fort’s supportive rooms including the officers’ quarters, barracks, prisons, power magazine, armory, kitchen and latrine. The second floor offers views of the town and harbor. 

Old Danish Customs House.  A mustard painted colonial era building adjacent to Fort Christiansvaern built to collect taxes during Danish rule. It’s recognizable by its brick “welcoming arms” staircase and symmetrical design. 

Government House Christiansted.  A stately Dutch colonial building used by the former governors of the Danish West Indies. It’s one of three governors' mansions used by the current governor of the US Virgin Islands. 

The Steeple Building.  A 250 year old building with a wooden clock tower. It’s been used as a church, bakery, storehouse and school throughout its lifetime. 

Frederiksted

Frederiksted is a small town on the island’s western shores with Danish colonial buildings, a seaside promenade, historic fort, cruise ship pier and lengthy stretch of sandy beaches. 

Frederiksted Historic District.  A waterfront neighborhood with colorfully painted Danish colonial buildings and covered walkways that lead past dive shops, cafes, restaurants, galleries and hotels. Many of their buildings have been abandoned due to damage from past hurricanes. 

Frederiksted Promenade.  A waterfront park with palm lined walkways, grassy lawns, small monuments and seaside views. Local vendors set up tents selling crafts and offering island tours on days when a cruise ship is docked at the pier. Check the St. Croix Cruise Ship Schedule for dates. 

Fort Frederik.  A red painted fort with an oceanfront wall flanked with cannons. It’s the site of The Emancipation Revolt that led to the end of slavery in the West Indies.

Cruzan Rum Distillery

Cruzan Rum is the island’s most famous rum distillery offering tours, rum tastings and house-made cocktails. The historic property is dotted with industrial facilities, storage warehouses and colonial era buildings including the ruins of the sugar mill. The tour leads through the fermentation facility with large tanks of bubbling liquids, past the distilling tower and into aging warehouses with thousands of stacked oak barrels with aging rums. The tour ends at the bar with a tasting of 8 Cruzan Rums and 2 cocktails. Book tours online in advance with Cruzan Rum. 

Other St. Croix distilleries include: Mutiny Island Vodka, Prosperity Farm Distillery and Captain Morgan Rum.

Jump Up Festival 

Jump Up is a lively street festival celebrating St. Croix’s Afro Caribbean culture. Moko Jumbies walk the streets, performing and dancing to steel drum beats and live soca music. Street food vendors serve local staples like deep fried patés (empanadas), johnny cakes and fritters. Craft vendors and shops sell locally made goods like jewelry, soaps, textiles and souvenirs. The festival is held in the historic center of Christiansted 3 to 4 times a year on Fridays from 6-10pm. Check the St. Croix Events Calendar for future dates.  

Moko Jumbies are traditional stilt walkers dressed in colorful and elaborately patterned costumes. They are representative of protective spirits meant to look out for and ward off evil spirits. The tradition has endured across several Caribbean islands, coming from West African origins. 

Snorkeling Points & Beaches 

Buck Island Reef National Monument.  A desert island surrounded by turquoise waters, reef systems and sea grass meadows. White sand beaches wrap around its shores while prickly trees and cacti cover its hillside. It’s only accessible by boat from the mainland of St. Croix making it a popular tour destination. 

Turtle Beach.  A pristine white sand beach on the western side of Buck Island with swimmable turquoise waters. The sandy seafloor and sea grass meadows are home to a large array of marine life. Blue ringed flounder hide beneath algae patches, pufferfish and spearfish swim by, starfish and conches lay on the ocean floor, green sea turtles, spotted eagle rays and stingrays glide through the water, ominous barracuda hunt prey and reef squid spray black ink at pursuing fish. 

Eastern Reef.  A reef at the far eastern point of Buck Island home to large formations of coral and tropical fish. Massive schools of blue tang swim between elkhorn corals, colorful parrotfish chomp on the reef, cuttlefish glide past rapidly, large barracuda lurk in the currents, juvenile sea turtles swim through the shallow waters and passageways lead to the outer wall of the reef with deep blue waters. 

Big Beard's Adventure Tours. A local tour operator offering full day (6 hour) and half day (4 hour) tours to Buck Island. Full day tours include a barbecue lunch served beachside with hot dogs, burgers, veggie burgers and mahi mahi. Book here. 

Frederiksted Pier.  A lengthy pier with a thriving underwater eco system. The posts under the pier and its freestanding mooring structures are completely covered in all kinds of brightly colored corals,  anemones and sponges. Schools of tropical fish swim beneath it and within the crevices of boulders leading towards it. Starfish sprawl across the sandy sea floor while stingrays and spotted eagle rays hunt for buried prey. 

Getting Here. The pier is the perfect spot for snorkeling and free diving with so much to see just beneath the surface. There is no need to swim out far past the first few posts. Enter the water at the south end of the pier across from the dive shops. Use this Google Map Pin for reference. 

Dorsch Beach.  A white sand beach located south of the Frederiksted Pier. It’s a quiet place to swim, sunbathe and snorkel. Crystal clear waters gradate from aquamarine to deep turquoise. The crevices of rock structures close to shore are home to tropical fish, moray eels, sea spiders and urchins. Juvenile coral formations, sea anemones and more fish are visible further out between the shoreline and double buoys. 

Cane Bay Beach.  A popular beach with a tan sand shoreline flanking the island’s verdant hillside. It’s possible to snorkel here however the deep water corals are best explored by scuba diving. There is a dive shop and multiple restaurants. Visit The Landing Beach Bar or Off The Wall for takeaway drinks and sunset meals.

Rainbow Beach.  A popular white sand beach north of Frederiksted with lounge and umbrella rentals, jet skis and a beach bar. It’s the perfect place to sunbathe, swim and watch the sunset while sipping on a Painkiller from Rhythms Beach Bar. 

Frederiksted Beach.  A beach located just north of Fort Frederik with coral sand shores and swimmable blue waters. It’s empty most days but lined with food trucks and beach chair rentals when a cruise ship is docked. Visit the Aquaholic Beach Bar & Grill for takeaway meals and local beers. 

Sandy Point.  A pristine white sand beach with calm turquoise waters stretching nearly two miles around the island’s southwestern most point. The beach is closed from April to August for sea turtle nesting. Though we couldn’t visit the beach, we had a beautiful view of it from the airplane window as we landed. 

Hikes & Lookout Points 

Goat Mountain.  A hilltop lookout with views of the verdant east end of the island and coastline. A gravel trail leads steadily uphill through dry forest home to prickly trees and flowering cacti. Chirping birds sing in the trees while the tiny St. Croix ground lizard jumps between rocks. The trail forks at the hillside’s saddle, leading up towards the summit or downhill towards Jack’s Bay and Isaac’s Bay. 

Getting Here.  The summit is reachable after a 40 minute hike from the Very Long Baseline Array Telescope. The trail is accessible from just beyond its gated enclosure. Use this Google Map Pin to locate it. 

Pro Tip.  Plan to hike in the early morning, starting at 7am to avoid extreme UV and excessive heat.

Point Udall.  The “easternmost point” of the United States. It’s marked by a large stone sundial on a hilltop with views of the surrounding coast. Beware of swarms of bees!  

Places to Eat & Drink

Mutiny Island Vodka Mill Bar.  A tasting room for Mutiny Island Vodka built into an old sugar mill tower on the Christiansted Boardwalk. Visit during their daily happy hour from 4-6pm for a $10 tasting of each of the 8 flavors or a $5 cocktail made with any Mutiny Island vodka of your choice.

Thomas Bakery.  A local bakery serving breads and pastries like cinnamon rolls, titi bread, raisin buns and coconut buns. Arrive early before they sell out. 

Crucian Coffee Club.  A coffee shop with flavorful brews, fresh baked pastries and a selection of Crucian patés like vegetable, conch and chicken.  

Toast Diner.  A breakfast and brunch diner with arepa sandwiches, hash brown casseroles and rum cake french toast. It’s open early, making it the perfect place to eat prior to touring Buck Island. 

Rhythms at Rainbow Beach.  A popular beachfront restaurant at Rainbow Beach. It’s the perfect spot to order a takeaway meal while lounging on the beach or stay for dinner and the sunset. Order the lobster tacos, coconut shrimp and fish sandwich. 

The Landing Beach Bar at Cane Bay.  A restaurant at Cane Bay Beach with local Leatherback beers and dishes like wahoo fish & chips, the crispy fish reuben and rum cake sampler. 

Off The Wall.  A beachfront kiosk with an outdoor patio overlooking the Caribbean. Come for sunset cocktails and island bites like shrimp ceviche, fried mahi bites and homemade salsas served with chips. 

Aquaholic Beach Bar & Grill.  A beachfront kiosk at Frederiksted Beach serving local beers, rum cocktails, grilled foods, salads and burgers. 

Levels.  A live music bar with nightly performers and Caribbean vibes. Visit on the weekends to listen and dance to calypso, jazz and salsa while sipping on island drinks, mocktails or local beers. 

Breakers Roar Tiki Bar.  A former tiki bar offering standard island cocktails like the painkiller, mojito and dark & stormy. They’ll still serve drinks in traditional tiki mugs if you ask. For food, they share the same menu as Harbor Prime. Order the fish and chips, crab cakes and lobster bisque. 

The Bombay Club.  A restaurant nestled inside of a colonial building with stone tunnels and stone walled dining rooms. Their full menu offers all types of mains but their specialty is seafood. Come here for the conch curry, mahi mahi sandwich and grilled lobster. 

Tropical Ice Goddess.  An ice cream shop with tropical and local flavors like soursop, cinnamon, coconut, dulce de leche and rum raisin.

Crucian Cuisine 

St. Croix has a mixture of West Indian and Caribbean flavors brought to the island by different cultural influences. 

Patés (Empanadas).  Deep fried pastries shaped like half moons and filled with a range of stewed vegetables, seafood or meats. 

Conch.  A sea snail famed for its large shells and succulent meat. It’s served in fritters, soups, curries and sautéed. 

Pot Fish.  A Crucian style of tropical reef fish, typically red snapper or parrotfish, caught in a wire basket or pot. It can be deep fried, grilled or steamed and is typically served with Creole sauce and a side of rice, fries or fungi. 

Chop up.  A vegetable mixture made of stewed or sautéed okra, spinach and eggplant. 

Titi Bread.  A local style of bread baked with pointed ends shaped like nipples.

Johnny Cakes.  A lightly fried and doughy biscuit often served at breakfast. 

Rum Cake.  A Caribbean cake baked with rum and often glazed in pineapple syrup. 

Leatherback Beer.  A beer brewed in the USVI and sold at most restaurants and bars in St. Croix.

Mutiny Island Vodka.  A local distillery making vodka from breadfruit infused with different island flavors like scotch bonnet pepper, ginger lime, hibiscus passionfruit and Caribbean roots. 

Painkiller.  A cocktail originating in the Virgin Islands made from rum, pineapple juice, coconut cream and orange juice. It’s found on almost every cocktail menu on the island. 

Location Specifics

Pleasantries.  St. Croix is a small island and people here place extra emphasis on pleasantries like saying “hello” or “good morning.” Many people will often stop to chat, strike up conversation or simply help provide direction if you seem lost. 
Stay Hydrated.  The island can get very hot during the afternoon. Drink plenty of water throughout the day, while snorkeling or hiking.  

Reef Safe Sunblock.  Wear reef safe sunblock while snorkeling or swimming to minimize damage to the corals and coastal ecosystems. Many dive shops on the island sell it. 

US Territory.  The US Virgin Islands are a US territory. American citizens do not need a passport to visit. The islands use the US dollar. English is the most commonly spoken language. 

Driving in St. Croix

Driving in St. Croix is one of the best ways to see all corners of the island on your own schedule. The island can be driven from end to end in less than an hour. We rented a car from Centerline Car Rentalfor the long weekend. The company is well reviewed and prices are fair compared to other rental agencies. 

Drive on the Left.  People drive on the left side of the road using left hand vehicles throughout the US Virgin Islands. 

Road Conditions.  Most main roads are well maintained. Beware of potholes, especially on side roads and at night. 

Car Break-Ins.  Do not leave anything valuable or visible inside your vehicle. Car break-ins are common across the island. Keep windows rolled down while parked and keep your doors unlocked to prevent broken windows. 

Free Parking.  Parking is free throughout all of St. Croix. We used two central lots in both main towns without issue. In Christiansted, park at the Boardwalk Parking and in Frederiksted, park at Lagoon St Parking.

For Next Time… 

A long weekend was just enough time to get a taste for everything St. Croix has to offer and come up with a list of what to do next time we visit the island.

Ham’s Bluff Lighthouse.  A rusted out and abandoned lighthouse with coastal views of the northwest coast. The lighthouse is reachable after a 30 minute hike from the trailhead at the end of Ham’s Bluff Road. 

Annaly Bay Tide Pools.  A series of swimmable tide pools reachable after a 1 hour hike. Start at the Trumbull Trail Head near the Carambola Beach Resort. Bring water shoes to avoid the sharp rocks and sea urchins. Don’t visit during high tide. 

Salt River Bay National Historic Park.  A river and bay with mangrove forests, bioluminescent jellyfish, glowing plankton, hiking trails and secluded beaches. Nighttime tours in clear kayaks are offered 10 days before and after the new moon.

Carambola Zip Line.  A zip line park with 3 zip lines, including “The Gauntlet,” a 2,473 ft long and 205 ft steep line over the Carambola Valley. 

Protestant Cay.  A small island offshore from Christiansted with a hotel and public beach. A water taxi leaves regularly from the boardwalk in front of the Harbor Prime restaurant for $5. 

Cane Bay Wall.  A trench along the continental shelf popular with scuba divers. It’s reachable from the shore of Cane Bay Beach. The Sweet Bottom Dive Center offers introductory dive courses and scuba rentals.

Estate Whim Plantation Museum.  A restored sugar mill converted into a museum with exhibits on the mill’s history and the island’s involvement in the Transatlantic Slave Trade.

Prosperity Farm Distillery.  A distillery producing gins and liquors like allspice dram, banana liquor, ginger liquor and amaro from sugarcane. They offer tours and tastings daily from 10am-3:30pm every half hour. 

Tromsø Norway Travel Guide: Northern Lights, Arctic Fjords & Sámi Culture

Tromsø, Norway

Tromsø is a breathtaking city in Northern Norway, located about 200 miles north of the Arctic Circle. Wintertime in Tromsø is like living in a snow globe. The city and surrounding nature are truly a winter wonderland that felt warm and vibrant even during the darkest and coldest time of the year. It’s a place to witness the Northern Lights, snowshoe up mountains overlooking the fjords, feed reindeer and learn about the indigenous Sámi culture. 

The Gateway to the Arctic 

Tromsø is considered to be the gateway to the Arctic. Its proximity to the Norwegian Sea and temperate climate for its position so far north have made it an ideal spot for Arctic explorers and expeditions throughout history. Its location under the Aurora Oval makes it a prime place to view the Northern Lights. 

Polar Night & Midnight Sun

For two months, from late November through late January, the sun does not rise above the horizon. During this time of the the year, known as Polar Night, nearly all hours of the day are dark. For a few short hours during the morning, the sky brightens up enough to feel like an extended dawn. The addition of snow makes the landscape feel even brighter as it reflects more natural light.

The opposite is true from late May through late July. During this time of the year, known as the Midnight Sun, the sun never sets below the horizon. It stays bright for all hours of the day, however when the sun reaches closest to the horizon, the sky lights up with beautiful colors seen during sunset and sunrise. 

The Northern Lights

One of the most popular things to do in Tromsø is watch for the Northern Lights. The city sits directly beneath the Aurora Oval, the ovular path near Earth’s northern magnetic pole where the Northern Lights appear. If the conditions are right, the Aurora can be seen dancing and swaying above Tromsø during nighttime. The best time of the year to see the Aurora in Tromsø is from October through March. We visited from late November through early December.

Chasing the Aurora 

Though the Aurora can be seen above the city, the best way to see it is by traveling outside of Tromsø to escape from the light pollution. We managed to see the lights above the city one night during our stay but truly got to experience them during a Northern Lights Safari. Local guides will take visitors outside the city to nearby fjords or as far away as Finland and Sweden to give you the best chance possible of seeing the lights. There are dozens of experienced guides and tour companies offering safaris to chase the Aurora. We booked a small group tour with Enjoy the Arctic.

We drove an hour outside of the city to Grøtfjorden where we were able to watch the Aurora dance across the sky nearly the whole evening. We even spotted a few meteors. Our guide helped us take photos, built a fire to keep us warm and provided us with warm drinks and veggie dogs to eat. 

Aurora Spotting Tips

• It needs to be dark and your eyes have to adjust to the dark. Keep flashlights pointed down or use red lights.

• It needs to be a clear evening, preferably no clouds or haze 

• Spotting the Aurora isn’t always certain. Even if it’s a dark sky and clear night, there might not be the right solar activity for them to appear. Plan on having a couple nights available to watch for the lights in case your first attempt doesn’t work out. 

• The human eye has a difficult time taking in enough light at night to recognize the Aurora’s true colors like cameras do. With your naked eye, it will appear mostly pale green or dark purple with the occasional flair of neon. Regardless of the intensity, the Aurora is truly a sight to be seen. 

• With the right settings, any DSLR camera will be able to photograph the Aurora. Our DSLR settings were: 

  • Camera (Nikon D300S)

  • 50mm Lens 

  • Aperture (F1.8)

  • ISO (1250)

  • Shutter Speed (2.5)

• Whether using a camera or a phone to photograph the northern lights, always use a tripod. Your hands will be too shaky to take a clear image. 

• Night mode and 10 second exposures on most smartphones will also capture the Aurora. 

• Dress in warm layers! It is going to be very cold and windy.

Sámi Culture & Reindeer

The Sámi People are a semi-nomadic nation spread throughout Scandinavia with a tradition based in reindeer herding. For thousands of years, they have established a livelihood using the reindeer for meat, fur and transportation. While in Tromsø, we booked an experience with Tromsø Arctic Reindeer, operated by a family of Sámi people to promote their culture, share their stories and offer close experiences with their herd of reindeer.

Reindeer Games

The Sami family welcomed us to their camp and introduced us to their herd of reindeer. Hundreds of the animals roamed the icy field as snow covered peaks stood in the distance. We watched as they played reindeer games, chasing each other around and sparring, like a scene from a Nordic fairy tale. 

Reindeer Sledding & Feeding 

Guided by two reindeer and Sámi handlers, we were gently pulled on a sleigh ride across the wintery pasture and landscape. We thanked the reindeer with buckets of food (no, not the glitter and oats you toss outside for Santa’s reindeer) but hearty pellets of grain. They typically graze on the grass beneath the snow but once the snow is too packed down for them to break through they feed on pellets or relocate to a new field. The reindeer, still wild animals, were very excited for the food. They were gentle, however at times one would nudge you for attention then bury their face into the bucket. It was amazing getting to be so up close and personal with these animals.

Sámi Hospitality & Story Time 

Inside the Sámi tents, the family’s matriarch greeted us with hot coffee, cookies and reindeer stew. We ate a vegetarian version and warmed up around a wood burning stove. After our meal, we moved to a different tent, called a lavvu, used for communal gatherings and ceremonies. We sat around a log fire listening to the camp leader and multiple reindeer herders talk about their life and the Sámi Culture. They explained the purpose of the traditional clothing and items they carry, many of which were handmade from reindeer. They sang songs, called a joik, which is a traditional form of music sung to someone or something of importance in their lives. The eldest herder told us how he sings for the reindeer and to scare away predators. It was truly a one of a kind experience getting to hear stories from the Sámi people and feed their herd. 

Snowshoeing & Fjord Hike

Tromsø is surrounded by snow covered mountain peaks, dramatic fjords and the idyllic landscapes of Northern Norway. We booked a guided snowshoeing excursion to experience the wintery landscape with Northern Horizon. They provided us with transportation, gear and a meal during our trip. 

Ascending the Mountainside 

We began our ascent in the small town of Tromvik, situated along the Norwegian Sea, an hour away from Tromsø. We spent about 2 hours snowshoeing the side of the mountain during the brightest hours of the morning before reaching one of its peaks. From the peak, we could look directly across the fjord at a salmon farm and straight out towards the Norwegian Sea. 

Prepare for the Weather 

The hike wasn’t too difficult but it definitely helped having an experienced guide leading the way, watching out for icy crevices and rapidly changing weather. At times the temperature would drop several degrees or a blizzard would roll in. This was especially true, the higher we climbed in elevation. The descent down the mountainside took about 30 minutes. By the time we reached the car, it was nearly dark again.

A Scenic Drive & Tasty Rest Stop

The scenic drive between Tromsø and Tromvik passed through Grøtfjorden, the same fjord we watched the Northern Lights from. We stopped in the small town of Kvaløysletta to visit Eide Handel AS, a grocery store with a deli counter displaying all types of Norwegian Salmon. They offered dozens of samples, which we tried, before buying a packaged smoked filet to bring home.  

See the Sights

The Arctic Cathedral.  Tromsø’s most recognized site is an Arctic architectural beauty. The modern cathedral, built in 1965, is inspired by the serene arctic landscape surrounding it. The 11 triangles that form its shape are reminiscent of snowy mountain peaks. The pews inside are made from local pine and cushioned in reindeer leather.   

Tromsø Bibliotek.  A contemporary library at the center of Tromsø with four arched and glass sides. The interior has a warm glow and aisles of books that look out over the city. 

Polaria.  A polar aquarium designed to evoke the fractured ice floes seen throughout the Arctic waterways. Each shard of the building is stacked up against one another forming a giant slanted mass.

Fjellheisen (Tromsø Cable Car).  Atop the mountain across from the island of Tromsøya is an incredible lookout that offers views of the entire city and beyond. This is where we saw the Aurora on our first night. The view is accessible via a cable car or a series of 1,300 mountainside stairs. We took the cable car, however if you opt for the stairs and it’s snowy, make sure to wear spikes on your boots to prevent slipping and falling. 

Waterfront Wharf.  The city center and its harbor are surrounded by many contemporary buildings, tour ships and views of the landscape. 

Tromsøbura.  A 1km bridge connecting the island of Tromsøya, where most of Tromsø is located, to the adjacent island. The bridge has a pedestrian path which can be walked across in 15 minutes. 

Skansen.  A historic neighborhood located near Tromsøbura on Tromsøya with old painted wooden buildings from the 1850s. It’s a beautiful area to walk around both day and night.  

Storgata.  The downtown main street flanked by numerous restaurants, hotels, bars, cafes and shops. It’s a popular place to explore on foot with heated sidewalks. 

Lake Prestvannet.  Fairly central on the island, the lake is surrounded by a number of hiking and cross country skiing trails. It’s reachable on foot from town by anyone that enjoys walking and hiking. 

The Science Center of Northern Norway.  A planetarium with footage of the Aurora captured during a two year period. If we hadn’t seen the Northern Lights, this would have been the best alternative. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Raketten.  A historic outdoor kiosk offering hot chocolate, mulled wine, reindeer and veggie sausage. Next to the kiosk is a patio with seating and a warm log fire.

Fiskekompaniet.  A higher end restaurant specializing in Norwegian seafood. Warm up with a creamy fish soup prepared table side. The bowl is served with a delicate pile of smoked salmon and white fish then enrobed in a creamy broth, poured from a kettle. For mains, order the crusted filet of cod with a side of potatoes and dill or Norwegian staple, Lutefisk.

Dragoy.  Located in a food hall along the waterfront wharf, this deli counter sells and serves fresh seafood. We shared cold water prawns with artisan mayonnaise on a large slice of sourdough bread. They’re also known for their fish and chips. 

Olhallen.  This is the city’s oldest pub and brewery with a selection of nearly 50 different craft beers and ciders. 

Bardus Bistro.  Located inside an old yellow wooden house, this charming restaurant offers a small menu of traditional Norwegian dishes like smoked cod, reindeer stew and root vegetable salad. 

Bardus Bar.  Located next door to Bardus Bistro, this bar offers the best cocktails in town. It’s a great spot to stop before or after dinner next door.

Smørtorget.  A café offering pastries and open face sandwiches. It’s a great spot to have breakfast before setting out on an excursion.

Nordic Cuisine 

Lutefisk.  Air dried white fish that undergoes several days of processing involving soaking in water and lye to rehydrate the fish. As the fish rehydrates, it loses a portion of its protein becoming slightly gelatinous. The fish is then cooked and served with potatoes and multiple condiments and sides including peas, pickled veggies, brown cheese, melted butter and mustard.

Norwegian Salmon.  Caught or farmed in the fjords of Norway, salmon is prepared and served in many ways. The most common style is smoked though it is also often fried, boiled or served raw. 

Pickled Veggies.  Almost every meal we enjoyed was topped with pickled veggies. Carrot, fennel, beet, cucumber and onion were quite common. They added extra flavor and color to each dish. 

Lefse.  Traditional Norwegian flatbread made with potatoes, flour, butter, and milk.

Buns.  A pastry that ranges from sweet rolls, to swirls or knots. Try them with cinnamon and cardamom. 

Mulled Wine.  Hot spiced wine was very popular. The Norwegian way of making it is by adding a spoonfull of chopped nuts and raisins before serving. 

Getting Around 

Getting to Tromsø.  To fly into Tromsø, you’ll likely need to transfer in Oslo. Booking directly through Norwegian Airlines is usually the most convenient and affordable option. Tromsø is about a 2 hour flight from Oslo. 

To/From Tromsø Airport.  Use Flybussen, the airport express bus. It routinely travels in a loop from the airport to multiple hotels in central Tromsø. It costs roughly $20 for a round trip ticket. 

Getting Around Tromsø.  The city and surrounding area is walkable, though a bit hilly and icy during the winter. The main street, Storgata, has heated sidewalks that keep snow and ice from freezing. Outside of this, it’s best to be cautious while walking on the snow and ice. We had a few slips ourselves but were layered in enough clothing to keep us from bruising. We noticed that many people wore spikes on their boots for extra traction. Just remember to take them off before entering indoors. One of the cutest things we saw was mothers pushing their children in strollers with sleds instead of wheels. 

By Taxi.  Taxis can be pricy but are convenient when trying to get around outside the Main Street. The two main taxi companies are Tromsø Taxi and Din Taxi. Taxis are also available through Uber. This is a general breakdown of cost:

• Around Town: $10 - $15 (From downtown to the cable car)

• Across Town: $15 - $35 (From the airport to downtown)

• Outside of Town: $35 - $60 (From Tromsø to a nearby town)

Getting Outside of Town.  Renting a car is the best option to get between Tromsø and anywhere else outside the city. Nearly all excursions will include transportation.

What to Wear

If you’re visiting in the wintertime like we did, you need to dress warm! It is the Arctic after all. You’ll need a base layer, mid layer and outer layer. Tuck your base and mid layers into each other to better hold in heat and prevent wind from getting under your clothes. In addition to layers, we also used thermal toe and hand warmers while we were snowshoeing and watching for the Northern Lights. 

Base Layer

• Thermal underwear

• Thermal long sleeve shirt 

• Wool socks

• Glove liners

Mid Layer 

• Jeans or pants

• A cute Norwegian sweater (you can buy one in town)

• A lightweight quilted jacket (down or down alternative) 

• More socks (you’ll need to double up) 

Outer Layer 

• Snow pants (mainly for extended periods outdoors) 

• Winter coat (you’ll want something that will break the wind and keep you warm)

• Heavy gloves 

• A warm scarf and hat 

• Boots (bring strap on spikes or cleats)

Where to Stay

Villa 1924 Loft.  An attic apartment in an A frame style space with Nordic pine wall panels, heated floors and tiny windows with views of Tromsø. It’s a cozy space to stay, minutes away from the city center on foot. Book on Airbnb. 

Elsewhere in Nordic Europe

From Tromsø’s Arctic fjords and Northern Lights to Lapland’s snowy wilderness, Copenhagen’s canals and Iceland’s waterfalls and glaciers, continue your Nordic journey through these travel guides:

Copenhagen Travel Guide: Nyhavn, Christmas Markets & Scandinavian Cuisine.  Wander along Copenhagen's colorful canals where wooden ships, historic castles and Danish culture meet Scandinavian cuisine and festive Christmas markets.

One Day in Helsinki: Finnish Sauna & Waterfront Sights.  Experience a winter day exploring Helsinki's frozen waterfront where local food markets, historic architecture and steaming saunas bring Finnish culture to life.

Lapland Finland Travel Guide: Northern Lights, Sámi Culture & Arctic Adventures.  Journey through Lapland's Arctic wilderness and snowy landscapes to experience Sámi traditions, husky mushing, Finnish cuisine and vivid auroras during the polar night.

Iceland Road Trip Guide: Waterfalls, Glaciers & Black Sand Beaches.  Road trip through Iceland's otherworldly landscapes where volcanoes, glaciers, waterfalls and black sand beaches create one of Earth's most dramatic journeys.

For Next Time…

Tromsø is an enchanting city that we one day hope to return to whether during the polar night of winter or midnight sun of summer! We plan to experience the city’s famed floating spas, husky excursions and whale spotting tours in the fjords. 

Vulkana Spa Boat.  A boat with a saltwater hot tub, sauna, steam bath and fireplace lounge. The crew provides dinner and facilitates cold water plunges in the harbor. 

Husky Excursions.  Multiple companies offer different types of husky excursions including husky mushing, dog sledding and cuddling with cute puppies. Experiences vary from short 30 minute trips, to hour long excursions and overnight stays watching for the Northern Lights. 

Whale Spotting & Fjord Tours.  Orcas and Humpbacks are frequently seen in the winter months from November to February while hunting for herring. There is a number of tour companies offering boat trips through the fjords and sometimes into the Norwegian Sea. 

Amsterdam Travel Guide: Canals, Museums & Autumn Colors

Autumn in Amsterdam

Autumn in Amsterdam is a magical time of year. The days are cool and the nights long. Golden leaves fall onto cobblestone streets while the amber glow of street lamps illuminates historic buildings lining the rings of canals. The crisp air and ability to dress in layers made it a cozy time to visit. 

See the City 

Whether on foot, by bike or boat, Amsterdam is a city that’s meant to be explored! Thin brick buildings, elegant row houses and house boats line the city’s famed canals. Creative restaurants and atmospheric cafes offer European dining experiences. Displays at vintage stores and design shops entice passersby to window shop. Food and flea markets encompass public squares and plazas.  Paintings by Dutch Masters, Van Gogh, Rembrandt and Vermeer are displayed in galleries of world class museums. 

Cruise the Canals

Amsterdam is best seen by cruising its charming canals! Boats depart from various docks across the city, each offering leisurely sightseeing and dining experiences. From within the covered boat, we looked out at the beautifully illuminated buildings, into countless house boats and admired how effortlessly the captain seemed to navigate through the narrow passageways and low bridges. Our tour included a spread of Dutch cheeses paired with European wines. Book with Stromma. 

Visit the Neighborhoods 

The Canal Belt.  The canals define Amsterdam branching out in semi-circles from the city’s center. The inner 4 rings are designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Spend time exploring them, admiring the architecture and their house boats. 

Binnenstad.  The central neighborhood of Amsterdam at the inner heart of The Canal Belt. It’s defined by its slanted row houses, historic monuments and bustling walking streets. It surrounds the De Wallen, the city’s red light district. 

De Wallen (Red Light District).  One of the oldest and well known, if not infamous, neighborhoods in Amsterdam. It’s famous for its historic architecture, narrow streets, sex-workers, nightly peep shows and coffee shops. Even if you’re not interested in the scene, it’s an exciting neighborhood to walk through by day or night.

De Pijp.  A vibrant neighborhood with a more local atmosphere than the central parts of the city. It’s home to The Heineken Brewery and one of the city’s largest markets, Albert Cuyp Market. We loved coming here for its quantity of cafes, making an effort to “cafe crawl” across the neighborhood and sip on different brews in the autumn air. 

Oud West.  This expansive neighborhood is a great place to visit for its many restaurants, bars, markets, vintage and interior design shops. It’s nearby the city’s largest park, Vondelpark, and home to Ten Katemarkt Market and the De Hallen Food Hall.

Amsterdam Noord.  A former industrial neighborhood that’s become home to a large artist community. Many former warehouses have been transformed into waterfront bars, flea markets and art studios. It’s accessible via a ferry near Central Station.

IJburg.  A neighborhood built on an artificial island with boat lined canals and marinas, ultra modern row houses, tree lined sidewalks and cobblestone plazas. It’s contemporary contrast and historic similarities with the city’s oldest neighborhoods make it a unique place to visit. We stayed here in a modern cabin at an architect’s property. Book here on Airbnb.

See the Museums & Sights

Rijksmuseum.  Holland’s National Art Museum housing Dutch works created throughout the past several centuries. The most famous pieces to see are Vermeer’s The Milkmaid and Rembrandt’s The Night Watch. The museum is also home to the Cuypers Library, a picturesque art history and research library.  

Van Gogh Museum.  A museum dedicated to Van Gogh, featuring hundreds of pieces created by him that depict the story of his life from when he began painting until his death. If you appreciate Van Gogh’s work, this museum is truly worth visiting. Some notable pieces include a variety of his self portraits, The Potato Eaters, Sunflowers and The Wheat Field with Crows.

Museumplein.  A public square surrounded by multiple museums including the Rijksmuseum and Van Gogh Museum. Come here to climb and sit on the I Amsterdam Sign.

Canal Houses.  The narrow, ornate and sometimes slanted canal houses can be seen throughout Amsterdam. 

• Dancing Houses. A series of strikingly slanted canal houses along the Amstel River. 

• The Golden Bend.  A bend along the Herengracht Canal with the oldest and most stately canal houses. 

• Twins.  Look for twins, two identical houses built side by side.

Vondelpark.   The city’s largest park and green space. It’s a calm area for picnicking, bicycling and escaping the energy along the canals and streets.

Begijnhof.   A small grassy oasis surrounded by beautiful brick row houses. 

Homomonument.   A series of three triangular monuments built into a canal lined square to honor the LGBTQ+ people persecuted during the Holocaust. Next to it is the Pink Point, a resourceful gay tourist info center.

Anne Frank House.  The home where Anne Frank and her family hid from nazi persecution during WWII. We missed our opportunity to visit not knowing that tickets book up a week in advance. Reserve online here. 

Visit the Markets & Shopping Streets 

There are many opportunities to shop and visit markets in Amsterdam. The city is filled with small business and shops tucked into the first floors of the canal houses. Almost every neighborhood hosts its own market, whether it be mostly produce, clothes, antiques or a combination of them all. 

Waterlooplein Market.  A 300 booth flea market with vintage goods, records, cameras, antiques and bohemian clothes. Several food carts serve Dutch favorites like stroopwafels, poffertjes, coffee and frites. 

Ten Katemarkt.  An outdoor weekend market selling produce, cheeses, spices, breads, mushrooms, seafood, meats and street food located next to De Hallen, a large indoor food hall with a variety of Dutch and international cuisines, several bars offering local beers and artisan gin and tonics. 

De 9 Straatjes.  This district within the Canal Belt is known for its picturesque streets lined with boutiques, design shops, concept stores and clothing retailers. We spent hours one afternoon walking from shop to shop, mostly looking, at all the pretty things in search of something affordable to bring home. 

Nieuwendijk.  A lengthy pedestrian street flanked by brick row houses home to hundreds of shops and restaurants including fromageries with displays of Dutch Gouda and “coffee shops” selling cannabis products. 

Nieuwe Spiegelstraat.  A two block section, flanked between the Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht Canals lined with antique shops and galleries. Come here to buy a set of blue and white painted porcelain salt and pepper shakers shaped like the city’s row houses.

Places to Eat & Drink

There are endless options when it comes to dining in Amsterdam. Whether along a canal, in a historic building, near a windmill or simply on the sidewalk. We never had a bad meal anywhere we dined. One thing we quickly learned is that you need a reservation for dinner at most restaurants at least 24 hours in advance, especially on weekends!

IJ Brewery.  A brewery and beer garden located next to a 16th century windmill.

Bakers and Roasters.  A brunch spot with all types of eggs inspired by different cultures, fruit dishes, vegetarian meals and strong coffee. We went for the banana nut French toast and eggs royal. 

Brasserie Van Speyk.  A romantic brick walled restaurant with glittering chandeliers, Dutch classics and North Sea seafood. Come here for the French style dover sole paired with champagne. 

Balthazar’s Keuken.  A tiny homestyle restaurant with a daily three course menu. Make a reservation! 

Pulitzer's Bar.  A dark and moody reading room-like lounge offering high end cocktails and small bites. 

Café ‘t Mandje.  A very eclectic and welcoming gay bar that’s been around since 1927. 

Venus & Adonis.  A cozy restaurant and cocktail bar specializing in craft gin & tonics. 

Café & Bakery Crawl

Before visiting Amsterdam, we read somewhere that the Dutch consume more coffee per person than any other country in the world. As avid coffee drinkers ourselves, we decided to visit a number of cafes while in town.

Van Wonderen Stroopwafels.  A bakery specializing in artisan stroopwafels decorated with toppings like coconut, marshmallows, chocolate, nuts and sprinkles. 

Scandinavian Embassy.  A popular café with slow brewed and drip coffees. Order one of their cinnamon knots.

Trakteren.  A small café specializing in lattes and cappuccinos with cute foam artwork of animals. 

Lot Sixty One.  A canal side café with house roasted coffee and tasty baked sweets.

Koffieschenkerij.  A café located on the grounds of the Oude Kerk, Amsterdam’s oldest building. Sip on a coffee at their outdoor patio with views of the cathedral.

Back to Black.  A corner café with a bohemian feel, bold coffees and an array of sweets. 

Dutch Cuisine 

Gouda.  One of the most well known Dutch cheeses. Fromageries around the city liberally hand out free samples of the cheese made with different flavors and ages. 

Stroopwafels.  Thin waffle crisps with caramel layered in-between. Use them to cover your hot coffee until the inside gets gooey.

Deep Dish Dutch Apple Pie.  A classic dessert but even more special when baked deep dish. Visit Wenkel 43 or keep an eye out for other cafés serving it. 

Pickled Herring.  Raw herring served with pickles and onions. It can be found at street carts around the city, one of which is Haring & Co.

Frites & Mayo.  Another common street food, also known as French Fries. They’re served in a paper cone with mayonnaise. Visit Wil Graanstra Friteshuis or watch out for them at other street carts. Order them twice fried! 

Bitterballen & Kroketten.  Two types of deep fried croquettes, made with a savory sauce and meat or mashed potatoes. The first is often shaped into a ball while the second is shaped like a cylinder. 

Poffertjes (Dutch pancakes).  Fluffy, tiny, yeasted and buckwheat pancakes covered in powdered sugar or jam. 

Gin and Tonic.  Almost every bar offers their own take on this classic cocktail by infusing the drinks and offering creative mixes.

Getting Around 

Getting around Amsterdam is one of the most enjoyable ways to explore and experience the city! There are countless options from bicycling, taking a canal tour, riding the tram or simply walking.  

By Bike.  Bikes are used as the preferred method of transit by locals. Multiple companies offer bike tours and rent bikes to tourists for single and multi days including: Ajax Bike, Yellow Bike and Mac Bike. Daily rentals cost around €20 depending on the type of bike. Some rentals require a security deposit or minimal insurance fee in case of damage or theft. 

On Foot.  Amsterdam’s neighborhoods are easily walkable by those who enjoy getting around on foot. 

On Public Transit.  The trams, busses and metro are the most reliable and economical option to get across the city. There are multiple passes that work 

• GVB Transit Card. A single or multi-day pass that offers unlimited transit on trams, buses and metro lines.

• Amsterdam Card.  Unlimited transit on trams, buses and metro lines including access to the museums and a canal cruise. Costs vary by pass type, ranging from 1 to 5 days.  

• Single ride tickets can be purchased on any form of public transit. 

Taxis and Ubers.  The most expensive to get around the city. Luckily they’re almost unnecessary other than getting to/from the airport. They typically cost €50 one way. 

Location Specifics 

Language.  Dutch is the official language however English is widely spoken. 

Card vs. Cash.  Most businesses accept credit and debit cards, including street food stands. Carry small denominations of Euros for markets, public transit and tips. 

Watch for Cyclists.  Be cautious while riding bikes and watch out for cyclists when crossing streets.

Photography.  Be respectful and don’t take photos of sex-workers in the RLD.

Reservations.  Make reservations at restaurants at least 24 hours in advance.

Tipping.  Like many places in Europe, tipping more than 10% is not required.

Tourist Traps.  Avoid tourist traps near Dam Square and Central. Explore the inner canal rings and branch out further into the outer neighborhoods. 

For Next Time…

Amsterdam is a mesmerizing city that we one day hope to return to! Some ideas we have for next time include:

Moco Museum.  A modern art museum featuring a large collection of physical, interactive and digital works by artists including Warhol, Haring, Banksy, Basquiat and Kusama. 

The Heineken Experience.  A tour of the Heineken Brewery where you’re able to cap your own bottle of beer. 

Take a Day Trip.  With more time, we would visit the Dutch countryside and neighboring cities of Utrecht, Rotterdam and The Hague.

Hotel Inntel Zaandam.  A unique hotel made to look like a stack of green and blue painted country cottages. 

Zaandam Windmills.  An open air museum with several preserved windmills dating back to the 1850s. 

Amsterdam Pride.  An LGBTQ+ pride parade with floats and boats sailing down the Prinsengracht Canal. 

Canal Ice Skating.  Return during wintertime when the Keizersgracht Canal freezes over and becomes a seasonal ice rink. 

Southwest USA Road Trip Guide: National Parks & Desert Landscapes

The American Southwest 

The American Southwest is a playground of incredible rock formations, otherworldly deserts and endless highways. The region overlaps several states, includes many Native American reservations and is home to some of the country’s most cherished National Parks. 

An American Road Trip 

There’s something so freeing and spontaneous about road trips: listening to good music, driving with the windows down, stopping at roadside attractions and ordering drive through meals. Starting in Los Angeles, we spent 10 days driving along sections of Old Route 66 across Southern California, Arizona and Utah. 

Southern California 

Our road trip through Southern California led us from Los Angles into the desert. We passed roadside attractions, hiked through national parks and visited forgotten communities. 

Santa Monica Pier 

The Santa Monica Pier made for a fitting place start to our roadtrip, being the point where the historic Route 66 meets the Pacific Ocean. The wooden pier is buzzing with electronic violinists, fishermen and neon lights from vintage amusement park rides. It boasts coastal views of the ocean and tan sand shoreline stretching along the Pacific Coast Highway. 

The Lobster Restaurant.  A seafood restaurant at the entrance of the Santa Monica Pier with dishes like grilled lobster, lobster mac and cheese and lobster rolls, all best paired with a Pacifico beer. 

Randy’s Donuts 

A landmark donut shop, easily recognized by the massive donut resting on top of its roof. It’s been featured in video games, movies, TV shows and referenced across Hollywood. We ordered coffees and a dozen donuts to begin our first morning on the road!

Cabazon Dinosaurs

Located just off the highway in Cabazon, CA, these dinosaurs captured our attention and imagination. This roadside attraction, considered to be one of the greatest, features two giant dinos: A brachiosaurus named Dinny the Dinosaur and a t-rex named Mr. Rex. We reveled at, walked under, around and even climbed inside both of them. 

Joshua Tree National Park

Joshua Tree National Park is one of the United States’ most treasured landscapes, home to exotic desert plant life, giant boulders and hiking trails. It’s famed for its namesake, the Joshua Tree, a multi-armed, spike leaved, desert growing plant. They are a fragile and enduring symbol the Mojave Desert where the park resides, thriving in harsh conditions with little water and persistent sunlight.

Hiking Trails & Desert Sights 

Park Blvd.  The main road in Joshua Tree National Park. Several hiking trails branch off from it, meandering across the desert landscape and connecting with other trails. Choosing a trail head with available parking, we began hiking the South Side Connector Trail and later merging with the Big Foot Trail. We spent hours hiking through a forest of Joshua Trees, alongside large rock formations and through an area with a wash where we saw desert tortoises. 

Willow’s Hole Trail.  Considered one of Joshua Tree’s most scenic hikes. The trail offers a variety of the entire Joshua Tree landscape ending at a desert oasis surrounded by willow trees. The first half of the trail is relatively flat, surrounded by large rock formations, Joshua Trees, desert plants and countless whitetail rabbits and jackrabbits. The second half of the trail winds through a canyon with incredible cliffs and washes before ending at the peaceful oasis. During the return hike, we enjoyed golden hour illuminating the terrain and watched as the sunset painted the sky in an array of colors. 

Pro Tip.  Begin in the late afternoon to avoid peak heat, planning to finish the hike around sunset.

Good to Know.  The hike spans more than 7 miles round trip and takes about 4 hours at a normal pace. Be prepared to climb over large boulders to avoid flooded parts of the trail. 

Chola Cactus Garden.  Located midway along Pinto Basin Road is this incredible cactus garden filled with Chola cacti. Watch your step along the trail and don’t touch them. 

Pinto Basin Road.  A scenic road leading from the north end to south end of the park, taking about an hour to drive. Most Joshua Trees are located in the High Mojave Desert in the north while the Colorado Desert to the south is known for its cacti patches. 

Pinto Basin.  A vast swath of cacti covered desert and mountains. It’s easily viewed from the Pinto Basin Road.

Ocotillo Patch.  Located near the south end of Pinto Basin road is an extensive patch of Ocotillo Cacti. These massive cacti grow several feet high and gracefully sway in the wind.

Skull Rock.  An eroded rock formation that resembles the shape of a human skull.

The Night Sky.  The High Mojave Desert is located far enough from any major cities making light pollution very minimal and offering incredible night sky views. 

Joshua Tree Essentials 

Maps & Park Pass. Stop at one of the Visitor Centers to buy a park pass and map. Ask a ranger for recommendations on where to hike based on what you want to do or see. Visit the National Park Service for detailed info on Joshua Tree and its trails. Alternatively, set up an account with All Trails for detailed info on all of the parks route’s with info curated by other hikers. 

What to Bring

• Water

• Trail Snacks

• Sunblock & Sunglasses 

• Flashlight 

• Map 

Where to Stay

There’s no shortage of places to stay in and around Joshua Tree. The park itself has a few campgrounds while many quaint desert resorts, motels and unique stays surround the park. 

Joshua Tree Airstream.  A traditional Airstream camper set amongst the shrub covered desert landscape. The cozy space is fully equipped with two beds, a communal area, kitchen, toilet and shower. It’s located less than 30 minutes from the West Entrance Station. Book on Airbnb.

Salvation Mountain 

Salvation Mountain is a massive art piece located in the California Desert started by Leonard Knight in the mid-80s. The site is inspired by the scriptural passages with the simple message, “God is Love.” Love, in our opinion, is the true theme of this place. The mountain is covered in colorful and peaceful imagery of waterfalls, flowers and the yellow brick road centered around the most prominent word, love, situated above a giant heart. The structure is built from a mixture of hay, packed clay and layers of paint.

Slab City & East Jesus 

Located just beyond Salvation Mountain are two off the grid alternative living communities, Slab City and East Jesus.

Slab City.  A community named for remnants of concrete slabs left behind after the demolition of a military training camp. The slabs are home to RVs, permanent trailers, makeshift buildings and piles of debris. Many of the folks who live here have come to live off the grid while others are here as a result of poverty. There is no electricity, running water, waste management or local government. Despite that, there is a certain sense of community with its own library, golf course, clubs and music venues. 

East Jesus.  A sustainable and habitable art installation focused on creative re-use. The experimental community is built from discarded materials and salvaged waste. It’s inhabited by artists, musicians, writers and other creatives. We spent hours wandering, observing and talking with some of the locals to get a better perspective on the place. Come here with an open mind. There is nowhere else quite like it. 

Salton Sea & Bombay Beach 

The Salton Sea.  An ancient lake bed, accidentally flooded during the early 20th century, now contaminated with agricultural runoff. The shrinking body of water and its shoreline are covered in the decomposing remains of fish, dried clay and salt deposits. 

Bombay Beach.  A once thriving seaside community catering to celebrities, retirees and vacationers during the mid 20th century. The town, now mostly forgotten is a place stunted in its growth yet still inhabited by a small number of families and artists. We passed a man painting television screens on the street, two children seamlessly sweeping dirt for leisure and a woman sitting alone on a chair in the middle of an empty lot. Many homes have been left behind due to the toxicity of the sea and damage caused by the salinity in the air. A sobering place that shouldn't be overlooked or looked down upon. 

Northern Arizona 

Our roadtrip through Northern Arizona led us to some of the United States’ greatest natural wonders and pre-Columbian ruins.

The Grand Canyon 

The Grand Canyon is revered as one of the greatest natural sights on Earth. Its size, at 1 mile deep and up to 18 miles wide, reveals millions of years of layered sediment and orange hued rock. We overlooked the South Rim of the canyon during the middle of a blizzard. Unable to see much through the whiteout, we laughed and vowed to return one day!

Horseshoe Bend

Horseshoe Bend is a 1,000 foot steep bend of the Colorado River in the shape of a horseshoe. It’s a breathtaking and truly awe inspiring place. We spent the late afternoon wandering the rim and admiring its beauty. Located just off the highway outside of Page, AZ and accessible by a 1.5 mile hike. The overlook is open daily from sunrise to sunset. Bring cash for the entrance fee. 

Lake Powell & Navajo Canyon 

Lake Powell is a manmade lake created by the Glen Canyon Dam with over 2000 miles of shoreline. One of the best ways to experience it is by boat. Rent a boat from the Antelope Point Marina to explore the lake. Visit Navajo Canyon, a 16 mile long canyon with massive orange and brown cliffs ranging in height on all sides. The canyon is fairly wide but narrows in areas with tiny offshoots, carefully accessible by boat. 

Navajo Cliff Dwellings 

The Navajo Cliff Dwellings, also called The Betatakin Cliff Dwellings, are one of the best surviving examples of pre-Columbian civilization in the American Southwest. At its peak nearly 800 years ago, it was home to hundreds of people and contained over 120 sandstone structures built into the protected cliffside. The cave dwellings can be viewed from an observation point at the end of a short hike from the Navajo National Monument Visitor Center. 

Southern Utah 

Our roadtrip brought us into the southern sliver of Utah, a part of the state overlapped by the Navajo Nation and defined by its dramatic buttes. 

Monument Valley 

Monument Valley offers views of the most quintessential western landscapes and scenery. The valley is comprised of towering buttes and crumbling rock formations that rise from the orange hued desert landscape. Many of the buttes and mesas are visible from roadside overlooks within and outside the Tribal Park.

Sentinel Mesa.  A desert plateau and cliff formation with dramatic views overlooking Monument Valley’s three most famous buttes: West Mitten Butte, East Mitten Butte and Merrick Butte. The observation point is reachable by hiking a trail at the end of Sentinel Mesa Road. Always ask for permission to park or hike on private property. 

Stay in a Navajo Hogan.  A Hogan is a traditional Navajo home, once common throughout the tribal nation. These domed huts are built from cedar structures covered in layers of sand and clay to provide insulation from the heat and cold. Most Navajo People live in modern homes today but keep a Hogan on their property for guests and ceremonial purposes. Staying in one in the middle of Monument Valley was an unforgettable experience. Its interior was rustic, with beds covered in Navajo blankets and a central wood burning stove. Our particular Hogan was built in 1934 and has been maintained ever since. Book here on Airbnb!

Try Navajo Frybread.  A round piece of flat dough deep fried until golden and puffy. It’s often made and served hot as a sweet or savory snack. Visit the San Juan Trading Post & Cafe in the town of Mexican Hat for their version, The Navajo Taco, with frybread covered in bean, tomato, lettuce, onion and cheese. For something sweet, order the Sweet Frybread, lightly covered in a sugary syrup. 

Forrest Gump Hill

Forrest Gump Hill is a scenic stretch of road that disappears into the horizon of Monument Valley. It’s been made famous by many Western movies and Hollywood films, most notably, Forest Gump. It’s here where Tom Hanks’ character stopped running after 4 years crossing the country. It even has its own emoji. 

Mexican Hat

Mexican Hat is a rock formation named after a large flat rock, precariously balanced on top of a small vertical base protruding from the hillside, described as resembling a mariachi’s sombrero. Hiking trails lead around the base and underside of the “hat.” From here, there are beautiful views of the green and orange hillside carved out by the San Juan River.

Central Arizona 

Central Arizona is home to desert landscapes, meteor craters and national parks, much of it reachable along Old Route 66 (now Interstate 40).

Old Route 66

Old Route 66 is one of the most famous and nostalgic roads in the United States. It’s dotted with numerous small towns, roadside attractions, motels and diners. 

Holbrook, Arizona.  A small town along Old Route 66 famed for its roadside attractions, western history and Americana charm. The main street is lined with old buildings surviving from the wild west, a tee pee themed motels, retro roadsigns, several rock shops and attention grabbing roadside dinosaurs. 

Wigwam Motel.  A historic motel famed for its concrete and steel formed tee pees lined with vintage cars and a retro neon road sign. The motel has 15 tee pees, each acting as their own guest room. The stay was incredibly cute and felt like we had transported to a different era. Book here!

Winslow, Arizona.  A historic town along Old Route 66 made famous by The Eagles’ 1972 hit, “Take It Easy,” featuring the lyrics “I'm a-standin' on a corner in Winslow, Arizona.” Drive through the town to stand on said corner as the song plays on repeat over loudspeakers.

Mr D'z Route 66 Diner.  A classic greasy spoon and retro Americana style diner with an extensive menu of omelettes, sandwiches and milkshakes. Its interior is decorated with teal and pink upholstered booths, black and white checkered floors, framed pictures and vintage memorabilia. 

The Roadkill Cafe/O.K. Saloon.  A famed restaurant along Old Route 66 with American style comfort foods like burgers, sandwiches and baked potatoes. Its pine paneled interior is decorated with all kinds of taxidermy animals and vintage signs.

Barringer Meteor Crater

The Barringer Meteor Crater is a giant impact crater formed over 50,000 years ago, measuring nearly a mile across and over 500 feet deep. The crater is accessible to view through the park’s visitor center and has two observation decks on its rim. Within the visitor center are a large number of meteorites on display as well as small fragments of it for sale.

Meteor City.  An abandoned roadside attraction near the Barringer Meteor Crater. It was started in the late ‘30s as a gas station, grocery store and souvenir stand along the Old Route 66. It’s an eerie spot to walk around and watch trains pass by.

Petrified Forest National Park 

The Petrified Forest is a National Park that covers a vast area of desert that was once home to an ancient rainforest. Preserved under the soil and exposed due to erosion are the remains of fossilized trees from the forest that existed over 200 million years ago. Some of the trees are so well preserved that you can count the rings and feel the grain of the bark. 

Blue Mesa.  An area of the Petrified Forest eroded by rain revealing colorful bands of blue, purple, grey and red soil as well as the petrified wood. Drive around its loop and hike the Blue Mesa Trail, an area with massive logs and fragments of the fossilized trees lying across the ground. It was crazy to think that we were walking across land where the dinosaurs roamed and a forest thrived over 200 million years ago. 

Southern Arizona

Southern Arizona is a dry and arid place, defined by its towering Saguaro cacti, desert landscapes and Southwestern cities. 

Saguaro National Park 

Located within the Sonoran Desert outside of Tucson is Saguaro National Park, home to the Saguaro Cactus. The Saguaro is the classic symbol of the Southwest with its tall waxy green trunk and multiple arms. The park is divided into two separate districts located on opposite sides of Tucson. The Tucson Mountain District to the West and The Rincon Mountain District to the East. 

The Rincon Mountain District.  The eastern half of Saguaro National Park with a drivable loop and hiking trails with views of the Sonoran Desert and its towering Saguaro Cacti. It’s easy to spend an entire day here. 

Cactus Forest Drive.  A loop road leading through the The Rincon Mountain District. Its a scenic way to see a vast region of the park, lined with hiking trails, observation points and picnic areas. 

Cactus Forest Trail.  A lengthy trail meandering across the desert terrain densely populated with mature saguaros. Beware of diamondback rattle snakes slithering across the trail. 

Pro Tip. Wear sunblock and bring plenty of water for hiking, especially during the peak afternoon hours. 

Tucson’s Barrio Viejo 

Tucson’s Barrio Viejo is a historic neighborhood and one of the city’s first. It's influenced by Mexican American styles with old adobe buildings, all painted vibrant colors and landscaped with desert cacti. Spend time walking around the barrio, imagining what it would be like to live in such a stunning place. 

Driving in The American Southwest

We spent ten days driving thousands of miles around the American Southwest and its seemingly endless highways. Below are tips for making a smooth road trip. 

Maps.  Download offline maps and plan your route. Ask for an old school paper map from the rental agency or pick one up at a rest stop as a back up. 

Distance.  The southwest is a vast region of the country. Expect to drive hundreds of miles a day and thousands during the course of a multi-day to two week roadtrip. 

Gasoline.  Keep your tank at least half full. There are vast stretches without any gas stations. 

Be Spontaneous.  Give yourself extra time to get around and expect to make unexpected stops at roadside attractions and lookout points. Expect the occasional detour. 

Weather.  Check the forecast prior to driving, especially in the mountains. It’s not fun to get trapped in a blizzard.

Playlist.  Have plenty of music or audio books teed up for the long drive and days in the car. 

For Next Time…

The American Southwest is a vast region of the country where endless roads criss cross dramatic landscapes, small towns, big cities and historic sights. If we had more time, there is so much more we would see and do. Below is an extensive list of some of those places: 

The Pacific Coast Highway.  A coastal road stretching hundreds of miles along California’s Pacific Coast. 

Palm Springs.  A California town famed for its retro and mid-century style architecture, palm lined boulevards and desert landscapes. 

Pioneer Town.  An 1880s themed western town with dirt roads, wooden buildings, saloons and wanted posters. 

Sequoia National Park.  A California park with a forest of towering sequoia redwood trees, including the General Sherman Tree, the world’s largest living tree. 

Death Valley National Park.  Considered one of the hottest and driest places on Earth with summer time temperatures often exceeding 120 degrees Fahrenheit, especially in Furnace Creek. 

Antelope Canyon.  A picturesque, narrow and winding sandstone canyon. It can only be accessed with a Navajo guide. 

Vermilion Cliffs.  A sweeping wave of orange and golden shades of sandstone.

Beaver Falls & Havasu Falls.  Two turquoise waterfalls hidden in the middle of Arizona’s desert landscape on the Havasupai Reservation. 

Sedona, Arizona.  A desert town with striking rock formations, pine forests and breathtaking hiking trails, including the Devil’s Bridge Trail.

Santa Fe, New Mexico.  A historic and artsy pueblo with galleries, museums and adobe landmarks. 

White Sands National Park.  A sprawling desert park with white sand dunes cresting across the horizon. 

Taos Pueblo.  An adobe city, home to the Taos Pueblo people, dating back over 1,000 years. 

Zion National Park.  A national park with verdant oases, emerald river pools, steep canyons and hiking trails including Angels Landing. 

Bryce Canyon.  A dramatic canyon filled with hundreds of red and orange sandstone spires. 

Arches National Park.  A national park with over 2,000 naturally formed sandstone arches. 

Bonneville Salt Flats.  The location of an ancient salt lake with a crystalline salt crust covering its floor. 

Dinosaur National Monument.  A reserve with hundreds of paleontological sights and fossilized dinosaurs. 

New Orleans Travel Guide: Food, Jazz & Local Culture

New Orleans, Louisiana

New Orleans is a historic city with a lively, liberal and romantic atmosphere. We fell in love with NOLA so much so that it’s where we decided to get married! Between visiting venues and wedding planning, we spent time indulging in the city’s unique Cajun cuisine and Creole flavors, riding the street car down oak lined boulevards, walking through residential neighborhoods to look at the colorful cottages, listening to Jazz echo from the bars while drinking in the streets and learning more about the city’s past. Above all, New Orleans is a place to relax and celebrate, one of the many reasons we chose it for our wedding day!

Explore the Neighborhoods & Streets

The French Quarter.  The Quarter is the historic center of New Orleans with Spanish and French architecture, gas lit lanterns and cobblestone streets. It’s a hub for live jazz, all night cocktail bars and Creole cuisine. We loved wandering its quiet side streets as well as bar hopping on Bourbon Street. 

Bourbon Street. The city’s most well known street located in the French Quarter. This street is often packed with people flaunting Mardi Gras beads, having the fortunes read and ordering to-go drinks from the colorfully lit all night bars. It gets a bit crazy but is worth visiting at least once.

Lavender Line.  Not technically a street but it encompasses a number of gay bars in the French Quarter north of Bourbon Street, many along St. Ann Street. Some of our favorites are Café Lafitte in Exile and Good Friends Bar.

The Garden District.  A residential district flanked between Magazine St. and St. Charles Ave. The neighborhood is home to historic mansions and cottages, large oak trees and leafy palms. It’s a beautiful neighborhood to explore on foot or along the St. Charles Street Car. 

Magazine Street.  One of the city’s Main Streets with restaurants, bars, boutiques, art galleries, vintage shops and Creole architecture. It’s about 6 miles long, stretching from The French Quarter through The Garden District and into Uptown. Every stretch of it is well worth exploring. 

Irish Channel.  Located between Magazine Street and the Mississippi River, this cute residential neighborhood has many of our favorites restaurants, cafes and bars. There are lots of great places to stay here. 

Freret Street. An Uptown street with restaurants, coffee shops, boutiques and bars. We happened to visit during the annual Freret Street Festival. All weekend long, local businesses set up tents and trailers serving everything from to-go drinks, barbecue, paella and tacos. 

Marigny.  This beautiful neighborhood, just outside of the French Quarter, is a charming place to walk through to look at the brightly colored Creole cottages and shotgun houses. There are also lots of great Airbnb’s here. Come for Frenchman Street, the artists markets and local restaurants. 

ByWater.  Basically an extension of Marigny, this neighborhood is a little more bohemian and hipster with flea markets, cafes, cocktail bars and funky restaurants. 

Arts/Warehouse District.  A former warehouse district converted into a hub for cocktail bars, high end restaurants and art galleries. 

Uptown.  A broad area on the Riverside of New Orleans. Visit Maple and Oak Streets for the restaurants and nightlife. Both areas are popular with Tulane and Loyola students.

Things to Do 

Have a Second Line.  Looking to celebrate like a local? Have a Second Line. It’s traditional New Orleans parade usually used to celebrate weddings or remember someone’s life. We had one during our wedding and paraded around the neighborhood near our venue leading it with the brass band, our 50+ guests and a police escort following behind. Photo credit: Brandon Xuereb at Xistence Photography. 

Jazz on Frenchman Street.  This is the place to be for dancing and live Jazz. There are a number of late night bars, creole restaurants and artist markets to make for a memorable night. It’s much tamer and more authentic than the famed Bourbon Street. 

Ride the St. Charles Street Car.  The street car follows St. Charles Avenue, an oak tree lined street covered in Mardi Gras beads. The street car is the perfect way to get across town while admiring the historic homes and mansions in the Garden District.

Beignets at Café du Monde.  Visit the original location, located in the French Market, which is the most famous place to order a beignet and café au lait. We were lucky enough to visit while a brass band was playing out front.  

• Beignets are fried rectangular pieces of dough covered in powdered sugar. 

• Café au Lait is French for coffee with milk. 

Enjoy Creole Cuisine.  A mix of West African, Indigenous American, French and Spanish flavors. Some of our favorite dishes are gumbo, catfish po’boys and charbroiled oysters. 

Order a To-Go Daiquiri.  Almost every bar on Bourbon St. offers a selection of frozen daiquiris made to go. As long as it’s in a plastic container, it’s legal to publicly drink anywhere in New Orleans.

Sunsets at Lake Pontchartrain.  Visit Breakwater Park on Lake Pontchartrain to watch the sunset. The calm shallow waters reflect every color in the sky. Afterwards, there are a number of seafood restaurants nearby to enjoy dinner.

Visit a Cemetery.  The dead in New Orleans are buried above ground in elevated plots or mausoleums because the city sits below sea level. We walked through the rows of St. Joseph Cemetery and Lafayette Cemetery No. 2. Both of which were open and free to tour. 

Armstrong Park.  A park on the edge of the French Quarter with walkways and bridges that meander over bayou-like waterways and ponds. Statues and sculptures of Jazz legends and musicians celebrate New Orleans’ musical culture, African heritage and Black History.

Audubon Park.  A spacious city park and green space with towering oak trees covered in Spanish moss, meandering and shaded walksways, swan inhabited ponds and views of the Mississippi River. 

Walk Down Crescent Park.  A riverfront park located along the Mississippi with a 1.4 mile path. Watch the ships pass by and sound their foghorns. Afterwards, cross the “Rusty Rainbow Bridge” into the ByWater neighborhood. 

Cross The Mississippi.  There is a ferry located along the riverfront at the end of Canal Street that crosses the Mississippi to Algiers Point. It’s a quiet neighborhood to enjoy a po’boy, view the skyline and walk the levee.

See Some Art

NOMA (New Orleans Museum of Art).  The museum has a great collection of Southern, French and Modern painting, historic and multi-cultural artifacts and a remarkable sculpture garden with beautifully landscaped grounds. There is also a rotating gallery; it had an LGBTQ+ photography exhibit when we visited. 

New Orleans Jazz Museum.  A museum teaching about the origin of Jazz, some of its most notable musicians and its importance in New Orleans. 

New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum.  A tiny but educational museum in the French Quarter with many voodoo artifacts and altars. It’s a great place to visit and learn more about the religion. They also offer cemetery tours and bone readings.

Go Shopping 

The French Market.  A market under a series of sheds in the French Quarter with food stands, to-go bars, live jazz performances, booths selling a range of items including Creole seasonings, fresh produce, Mardi Gras masks, voodoo dolls and colorful beads. Visit the original Cafe du Monde for sugary beignets. 

Frenchman Arts Bazaar.  A nightly market located on Frenchman Street where artists sell illustrations, sculptures, jewelry, decor and perform live music. 

Voodoo Authentica.  A voodoo shop with a dimly lit interior, small shrines, handmade voodoo dolls, figurines, charms, candles and incense. It’s an educational place to learn more about the modern practice of Voodoo. 

Get Out of The City

Outside of New Orleans, there are a number of mini excursions to go on. We booked ours with Cajun Encounters, a local tour company. 

Swamp Tours

New Orleans is surrounded by swamps that have had a large influence on the city’s architecture, industry and cuisine. They are also natural buffers that offer protection from hurricanes. We visited the Honey Island Swamp, where we saw wild boars, alligators, cypress trees and Spanish moss while boating through the bayous and past swamp houses. 

Plantation Tours

Educate yourself on the history of slavery. New Orleans’ past is one we chose to learn more about while visiting. About an hour up-river are a number of plantations offering tours. We visited the Oak Alley Plantation, named for its row of 300 year old oak trees. Here, we learned about the lives of the enslaved people that were forced to labor here, the conditions they lived in and the African influences they brought with them. There is also a great restaurant here. Order a Po’boys and a flight of Mint Juleps!

Pro Tip.  Book a tour or drive here yourself. Uber and Lyft don’t drive to this area.

Taste Everything!

If you come to New Orleans for one thing, come for the cuisine! There are so many dishes and drinks unique to this city alone. These are some of favorites:

Po’Boy.  A classic Louisiana sandwich made on a crispy bun with a fluffy center. It always has a protein, usually seafood, and comes “fully dressed” with lettuce, tomato, a pickle and mayo. 

Crawfish Mac n Cheese.  A Cajun classic made with crawfish tails, rich gooey cheese and macaroni noodles. 

Shrimp and Grits.  A classic breakfast dish with creamy buttery grits and tender Gulf shrimp. 

Fried Catfish.  A slightly gamey and flaky white fish. We often ordered it on a Po’boy.

Gumbo.  A soup, traditional of New Orleans often eaten from October through March. It’s a savory melting pot of flavors and cultures having influences from the Indigenous Choctaw, West Africans, French and Spanish. 

Chargrilled Oysters.  Gulf Coast oysters that have been grilled with herbs and cheese.

The Holy Trinity.  A twist on the French mirepoix, made of onion, celery and bell peppers. It’s the base of many dishes.

King Cake.  Traditionally served during Mardi Gras, it’s a green, yellow and purple glazed cake. 

The Sazerac.  A sipping cocktail made from whiskey, cognac and absinthe usually garnished with a lemon peel. 

The Hurricane.  A sweet, fruity, tropical rum drink served in a tall curved glass. 

Hand Grenade.  A cocktail served on Bourbon St. by a few specific bars. It’s a very sweet drink served in a tall neon green plastic container with the shape of a grenade at the bottom. Basically a hangover waiting to happen…enjoy! 

Places to Eat

Commander’s Palace.  Commander’s is an unmistakable teal and white wooden restaurant located across the street from Lafayette Cemetery No. 1. It’s a family run business offering the best of high-end Creole cuisine in New Orleans. We tried the slow cooked gumbo, pecan crusted gulf fish covered in lump crab and a version of the crawfish linguini. For dessert, the bread pudding soufflé. Be sure to make a reservation and come dressed up. 

Jacques-Imo's.  It’s hard to choose a favorite restaurant in New Orleans but this one is up there! Try the snail butter corn bread, Creole Bouillabaisse, Crawfish Étouffée and bread pudding. Make a reservation in advance and come ready to eat!

The Rum House.  Located on Magazine St. and a gem for á la carte tacos. We almost hired the restaurant to cater our wedding.  

Killer Po’Boys.  The best spot in the French Quarter for po’boys. In addition to the classic seafood options, they offer vegan Po’boys like roasted cauliflower, sweet potato and peanut butter and jelly.

Pêche.  Recommended to us by a few locals, this restaurant in CBD the offers Cajun and Gulf style seafood. 

Basin Sea Food & Spirits. We’ve come here multiple times for their classic southern seafood dishes including charbroiled oysters, po’boys, fried catfish and gulf shrimp. Early on Friday nights they host lively drag shows!

Juan’s Flying Burrito. A favorite of ours on Magazine Street for Mexican food and margaritas. They blend Mexican, Creole and Native American flavors across their dishes. Try the Mardi Gras Indian and Creole tacos!

Landry’s Seafood House.  A seafood restaurant chain located throughout the Gulf Coast. We’ve dined at the Lake Pontchartrain location to watch boats sailing at the sunset. 

The Commissary Market + Kitchen.  A restaurant, bakery, butcher, bar and store shelved with miscellaneous provisions including dried goods and homemade pickles. We’ve ordered cocktails, cookies and sandwiches.

Fat Boy Kitchen.  We came here for lobster po’ boys and steak fries the day after our wedding. The portions are huge and the food is delicious! The owner even gifted us a bottle of Prosecco to celebrate.

Cafes & Coffee Shops

The Vintage.  A coffee shop with artisanal beignets by day and bar by night. We ordered a flight of three stuffed with matcha, pumpkin and raspberry for breakfast and enjoyed cocktails on their second floor balcony at night.  

Café Beignet.  A popular beignet chain. Visit the Bourbon St. location for a beignet, cup of chicory and of course live jazz. The beignets are delicious and lines are often shorter than their well known competitor, Cafe du Monde.

French Truck Coffee.  A local chain cafe with amazing coffee, biscuit sandwiches, breakfast toasts and croissants. If it’s fully brewed, try the Oji coffee. It’s a Japanese method of slow brewing 1 drop at a time over 24 hours.

Bearcat Cafe.  A cafe in the middle of a residential street with breakfast and brunch options including Cajun meals, vegan dishes and fresh kombucha. We ordered the blue crab omelette and vegan biscuits & gravy. Make sure to try the breakfast potatoes. 

City Donuts & Cafe.  One of the best finds in the city. Come here for a king cake donut or glazed donut breakfast sandwich! Literally egg and cheese sandwiched between two regular glazed donuts. 

Orleans Coffee Espresso Bar.  A great spot to relax with a coffee or cafe au lait. 

DeVille Coffee House & Crêperie. A restaurant serving crepes all day. We came here for brunch and dined outside right on Magazine Street.

Mojo Coffee. A cafe on Magazine Street with coffee and pastries. Try the NOLA brew, a blend of coffee and chicory.

Places to Have a Drink 

Delachaise Wine Bar.  One of our favorite spots in town. Come here for a glass of wine and to watch the St. Charles street cars pass by.

The Elysian Bar.  A former church turned into a restaurant and cocktail bar. The nave of the church is now the main dining room with multiple parlors located throughout the rectory. It’s a funky and unique experience!

Old Absinthe House.  A 200+ year old absinthe bar on Bourbon St. offering traditional absinthe drip cocktails. It stands out from the neon lit cocktail bars lining the street. The walls are covered in notes and business cards from generations of customers.

The Pelican Club.  A creole restaurant with a quiet and semi hidden patio in a French Quarter alley. We came here for a post dinner nightcap, sitting between two potted palm trees under a string of twinkling lights. 

The Sazerac Bar.  A cocktail bar with classic cocktails, most notably, the Sazerac, a cocktail invented in New Orleans and made with rye whiskey, absinthe, bitters, lemon and sugar.

Salon Salon.  A cocktail bar with a glamorous and eclectic library styled interior. They have a revolving bookcase that opens up to a secret back room (we have yet to get in). 

Café Lafitte in Exile.  Located on Bourbon Street and said to be the oldest operating gay bar in the US, dating back to the 1930s. Their cocktails bring new meaning to “gay bar strong.”

Good Friends Bar.  One of the many gay bars in the French Quarter but also one of our favorites. The two floor bar is a hub for the gay community, locals and tourists. 

QiQi.  An LGBTQ+ dive bar with inexpensive drinks, a laid back vibe and outdoor seating. 

Hot Tin.  A rooftop bar at the Pontchartrain Hotel with great cocktails and views of NOLA.

Getting Around 

Take the Street Car.  There are four lines that branch out from Canal St in the city’s center to different neighborhoods. Streetcars are the easiest and most affordable way to get around town. Download the RTA Go Mobile App to buy single ride tickets or multi-day passes.

On Foot.  Grab a to-go cocktail and start walking. The city is so photogenic and great for exploring on foot. 

Ride Shares.  Overall, New Orleans is pretty easy and affordable to get around. 

• $10 for short distances 

• $10-$20 to get across town 

• $30 to/from the airport to Canal St. 

Location Specifics 

NOLA.  The unofficial name for the city, short for New Orleans, Louisiana. 

Dining Attire.  Dress casually chic to semi formal for higher end restaurants.

Riverside vs. Lakeside.  Riverside refers to the south side of the city and area along the Mississippi River. Lakeside refers to the north side of the city and area along Lake Pontchartrain. 

Bourbon St. Scams.  Watch out for scam artists on Bourbon St. If anyone bets they can tell you where you got your shoes…tell them you’ve got them on Bourbon St.

Places to Stay

The Pink Cottage: Steps from Parades Courtyard.  A modern version of a creole cottage, a small house with a singe room, tiny kitchen and bathroom. Book on Airbnb. 

Courtyard Suite on Tchoupitoulas by Convention Center.  A beautiful and large Airbnb on the ground floor of a historic home neighboring our wedding venue. Book on Airbnb.

Next Time in New Orleans… 

New Orleans holds a special place in our hearts and we will certainly be back in the future! When we return, we have ideas of what we would like to do and see next including: 

• Celebrate the festivities during Mardi Gras and Jazz Fest. 

• Tour St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 and Lafayette Cemetery No. 1 after their repairs are complete. 

• Go sailing on Lake Pontchartrain. 

A Local’s Guide to New York City: Boroughs, Iconic Sights & Hidden Gems

New York City 

New York City is an ever changing landscape of cultures, histories, movements, styles and cuisine. It is a worldly city, both glamorous and gritty, filled with people from all walks of life. The city attracts dreamers and offers an endless supply of inspiration. Having lived here for seven years, we’ve had the chance to explore and experience so much of what makes NYC unlike anywhere else. In no particular order, we’ve curated a list of sites worth visiting, hidden gems to appreciate, mouthwatering food to try and activities to do anywhere in NYC and across all five boroughs.  

Manhattan

Manhattan is the most iconic borough of New York City. Its towering skyscrapers, bustling avenues, historic neighborhoods, world renowned museums, famed parks and all hours of activity make it a mesmerizing and energizing place to visit, live or work. 

Central Park 

Nestled within Manhattan’s grid of concrete and skyscrapers, is Central Park. The park acts as a retreat space for every New Yorker to escape the busy life of the city, spread out and re-connect with nature at all times of the year. These are our favorite reasons to visit the park: 

• Picnic.  Gather some friends, bring a blanket, drinks, snacks and have a picnic. The park is filled with all types of lawns, fields and rock formations to choose from, finding a spot is never difficult to do. A few of our favorites are Umpire Rock, Sheep Meadow and Cedar Hill.

• The Lake.  With so many scenic spots nearby, the lake is one of our favorite areas in all of NYC. From here, you can listen to opera singers perform at Bethesda Terrace, share a kiss on the Bow Bridge, row across The Lake, sip on bubbly at the Loeb Boathouse and get lost in the winding trails within The Ramble. 

• The North Woods.  Located in the northwest corner of the park between 100th & 110th streets, The North Woods is a vast section of the park with old trees, rolling hills and plenty of roads and trails to hike without leaving the city. 

• The Central Park Zoo.  A small but fun zoo to stroll through, see animals and learn about conservation. Our favorite part are the seals that frolic, splash and chase each other around in a large pool.

Grand Central Station 

An icon of NYC and well worth the visit with plenty to do and see outside of the typical commute.

• Wander The Great Hall, admire the celestial ceiling and check time on the Connecticut Clock. 

• Try a seafood tower, fresh oysters or whole lobster at the Oyster Bar.

• Whisper sweet nothings in the Whispering Hall. Outside of the Oyster Bar is a vaulted ceiling with columns at each corner. Stand diagonally across from another person speaking directly into the column. You’ll hear each other’s voice carry across the noisy hall’s ceiling.

• Drink a cocktail at The Apartment Bar, an old school NYC style speakeasy behind the restaurant on the south east corner of the great hall. 

• Shop for produce or souvenirs at the Grand Central Market. We usually grab specialty items from here on our way home; such as spices, seafood and Murray’s Cheese.

Photograph the Empire State Building 

The Empire State Building is easily the most recognizable and iconic sight in NYC defining the skyline day and night. At night, the building is illuminated in white or themed colorful lights. Try to spot the white lights twinkling on the hour after dark. Other special times to see the building illuminated are during Pride when it’s splashed in a rainbow of light, on New Year’s Eve when it glitters in color or Valentine’s Day when it’s lit in red and has a “heart beat.”

Observatories & Lookouts 

There are several observatories at the tops of historic and super tall buildings across the city. We’ve played tourist in our own city and visited multiple of them including:

• Empire State Building.  The most popular observatory in NYC and a must see with an outdoor deck, 360 city views and a small indoor room at the top of the spire. 

• The Edge.  An observatory with a large outdoor terrace and panoramic views of Manhattan. There’s a champagne bar to order bubbly from and enjoy the views. 

• World Trade Center.  The highest observatory in NYC with views of the Hudson Harbor and looking north across Manhattan. There is a cute bar with drinks and light bites.

• Rockefeller Center.  An observatory with views looking south towards Central Park and Midtown. 

Bryant Park 

This urban oasis is a magical spot to relax and admire the city. Find an open chair or green patch of grass, sit back and listen to the hum of everything happening around you. The park is a few blocks from the energy and lights in Times Square and adjacent to the quiet and calm found within the main branch of the NY Public Library. Bryant Park also hosts events year round from group yoga classes, chess competitions, ping pong, square dancing and a seasonal ice rink. 

Times Square 

While most New Yorkers avoid Times Square like the plague, you have to visit at least once or pass through en route to a Broadway show. Take in the lights, giant billboards, bustling chaos and noise.

Ride the Subway 

There’s hardly anything glamorous about riding the subway but it’s part of the NYC experience. Take the trains across town, look and listen for performers and don’t be afraid to ask strangers for directions. 

Directions to Keep in Mind: 

• Uptown = Central Park/Harlem

• Midtown = Times Square

• Downtown = World Trade Center

• Most trains pass through Times Square or Grand Central. From either, you can transfer almost anywhere. 

Eat NY Style Pizza 

Grab a slice of New York style pizza. Characterized by its crispy thin crust and wide slices, it’s a staple of NYC cuisine. Look out for pizzerias with long counters lined with dozens of pizzas all sold by the slice. Many of these shops are open 24 hours and constantly crank out new pies ensuring a fresh and delicious slice at any time of day. The East Village hosts a large number of pizzerias.

The Cast Iron District 

Spend an afternoon strolling through the cobblestone streets of the Historic Cast Iron District in SoHo. Hundreds of ornately designed cast iron clad buildings define the neighborhood, many of which are now home to high end restaurants, residences, boutiques and nightlife. Our favorite streets to walk down are Green Street, Bond Street and Crosby Street.

Urban Hiking 

One of the best ways to see NYC is on foot. We often spend our weekends walking down avenues, across bridges and through boroughs to explore the neighborhoods, discover restaurants and see areas we would typically passby while riding the subway. Get lost wandering, as Alicia Keys said it, “these streets will make you feel brand new.”

Vesuvius Bakery

One of our favorite bakeries in the city! This SoHo bakery often lures us in with its window display made from stacks of large chocolate chip cookies. Their cookies are crispy on the edges and gooey in the middle made from layers of thin chocolate that melt apart with each bite.

The High Line 

Walk The High Line in Chelsea and Meatpacking. It’s an old rail line turned into an elevated park surrounded by contemporary architecture. It’s beautiful year round but our favorite time to visit is during autumn. Midway through, stop by Chelsea Market and eat your way through the food stands and restaurants.

Liberty Island 

Visit Liberty Island to see one of the United States’ most recognizable sights, The Statue of Liberty. The island is home to a museum recounting the statue’s history, construction and renovations. Most sightseeing tours leave from Battery Park.

Governor’s Island 

An island park in the NY Harbor accessible from the ferry terminal in lower Manhattan. Come here to picnic, admire the skyline and Statue of Liberty, ride bicycles without the stress of NYC drivers, rent kayaks at Pier 101, visit Castle Williams and admire artwork at summer galleries. There is a range of seasonal restaurants to dine and relax at including:

• Gitano Island.  A beach club style restaurant and bar with palm trees, a live DJ and tropical food and drinks.

• Taco Vista.  A taco stand in a shipping container with a patio overlooking the Manhattan skyline. 

• Island Oyster.  An outdoor oyster bar with an east coast vibe and skyline views. 

If you’re looking for something ritzier, buy a pass to the QC NY Spa or stay overnight at The Collective’s luxurious glamp-ground.

Roosevelt Island 

Ride the cable car connecting the Upper East Side and Roosevelt Island that runs parallel to the Queensboro Bridge. While on Roosevelt Island, visit Four Freedoms Park, appreciate the island’s Brutalist Architecture or admire the Cherry Blossoms from April to May.

Union Square Market 

Every Saturday morning, the northwest side of Union Square transforms into a large farmers market comparable to those found in the plazas of Europe. It’s one of our favorite places to shop for locally made and grown items including Brooklyn honey, cut flowers, fresh caught seafood, funky mushrooms, artisan bread, smelly cheese, NY wine, maple syrup, seasonal produce and other specialties from local and urban farmers.

Greenwich Village

A historic Manhattan neighborhood known for its narrow streets, brick town houses, high end restaurants, trendy cocktail bars and fashion boutiques. It’s a home to the LGBTQ community and movement with numerous gay bars including The Stonewall Inn, Julius, Duplex, The Monster, Pieces and Playhouse. Come to any of these for drag shows and dancing.  

Little Island

A fairy tale park built on tulip shaped pre-cast concrete columns rising from the Hudson River. The park has a winding pathway that gently climbs to a high point with views of the river. It’s home to a lawn, amphitheater and stage; each host concerts, fashion shows, comedians and other performances. There is also a rotunda with concession stands and colorful dining tables.

Chinatown 

After emerging from the Canal St subway station, it’s evident you’re in Chinatown by the pagoda style architecture, strings of red lanterns, vertical Mandarin signs and vendors selling fresh produce and knock-off handbags. Sip on bubble tea from Miss Du’s Tea Shop, lick ube or black sesame ice cream from Soft Swerve Ice Cream, shop for live seafood at Aqua Best, get a massage from the Renew Day Spa, check out the exhibit at world’s smallest museum, The Mmuseumm and sing dollar karaoke songs at Winnie’s Bar. Visit during Lunar New Year and participate in the neighborhood’s festivities and traditions.

Little Italy

That's Amore! Visit Little Italy for authentic homestyle Italian cuisine. While looking for a place to eat, you can expect to be invited into every restaurant on the street by their respective hosts. Come here to eat wood fired pizza at Gelso & Grand, homemade pasta at Benito One, freshly filled cannoli or gelato at Ferrara Bakery & Cafe and espresso or espresso martinis at Caffe Roma. If you happen to visit during September, go during the Feast of San Gennaro, the neighborhood’s yearly food festival and street fair. 

Lower East Side

A popular Manhattan neighborhood that feels both grungy and upscale, trendy and timeless, home to locals and welcoming of tourists. About every cuisine imaginable is just a New York minute away with decades old restaurants, corner bodegas and street cafes serving customers late into the night. It’s a trendy area for nightlife with rooftop cocktail bars, late night dives, hidden speakeasies and infamous clubs lurking around every corner. 

Go on a Bagel Crawl 

The city is dotted with delis, bakeries, bodegas and food carts offering these quintessential NY breads. Order one and split it amongst friends. After your first bagel, set out for your second, third, fourth and so on…enjoying the moments in-between to walk off a few carbs and see the city. There is an abundance of bagel shops throughout the Lower East Side. If you only have one type of bagel in NYC, make sure it’s a bagel with lox (cured salmon).

See Some Art

With renowned museums and galleries, NYC is home to some of the best art and artists in the world.

• Visit The Guggenheim and experience the museum as it was intended. Take the elevator to the top floor then walk down the spiral ramp viewing the art as you descend. 

• Spend a day at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) to see modern artwork by world famous artists like Van Gogh, Picasso, Matisse, Dali, Warhol and Frida Kahlo. 

• Tour the Egyptian Temple of Dendur, walk among the Ancient Greek sculptures and galleries of renowned artwork at The MET.

• Question the meaning behind contemporary art at The Whitney. 

• Tour the galleries and exhibits of the city’s second largest art museum, The Brooklyn Museum.

• Go Gallery Hopping in Chelsea on a Thursday during the open gallery night from 5-8pm. See work by new and emerging artists while enjoying free glasses of wine or beer. 

American Museum of Natural History 

An expansive natural history museum with some of the world’s most important discoveries and finds on display including full dinosaur skeletons, the oldest discovered humanoid, the world’s largest meteorite on display and thousands of preserved once living creatures from across all biological kingdoms.  

Brooklyn

Brooklyn is one of New York City’s most inviting boroughs! It’s home to historic neighborhoods with iconic brownstones, rooftop water towers, Manhattan views and vintage amusement parks. Its urban charm, arts scene and ritzy areas are quintessential of the city’s diverse and ever changing character. 

Coney Island 

This nostalgic and eccentric place is a usual highlight of our summer. We often spend the day here riding amusement park rides, walking the boardwalk, relaxing on the beach and eating fried foods. Make sure to ride the Wonder Wheel and The Cyclone. Have a meal at Nathan’s with a Mermaid Pilsner. If you’re in NYC during mid June, make your way out to Coney Island to witness or participate in the Mermaid Parade, where thousands of people dress up as mermaids, sea creatures and in nautical costumes.  

Walk Across the Bridges 

Walk between Brooklyn and Manhattan on 3 of the city’s most iconic bridges: The Brooklyn Bridge, Manhattan Bridge and Williamsburg Bridge.

DUMBO 

Short for “Down Under Manhattan Bridge Overpass,” this Brooklyn neighborhood is one of the most iconic for its city and bridge views, rooftop water towers, cobblestone streets, red brick buildings and warehouses. Ride Jane’s Carousel, a vintage merry-go-round on the waterfront for only a few dollars. 

Admire the Brownstones

Take the subway to Brooklyn to see New York’s historic Brownstones. These architectural beauties are scattered throughout the city with large concentrations in Bed Stuy and Park Slope. Characterized by their brown stone facades, elevated stoops and narrow width, these homes exude urban charm. 

Tawk like a New Yawker 

Easily recognizable, the New York accent comes from the mix of ethnicities, social groups and cultural influences. It’s known for its combination of excitement, hand gestures, attitude, unique phrases, cursing and drawn out words. When you’re here, it’s hard not to notice and even harder not to try speaking.

Queens

Queens is the largest of New York City’s boroughs, famed for its multicultural neighborhoods, international food scene, waterfront views of midtown Manhattan and city beaches. 

Manhattanhenge 

Manhattanhenge is a rare spectacle when the sun lines up precisely with Manhattan’s east/west street grid during May - July. During this time, the sun rises and sets within the city’s canyon of buildings.

Rockaway Beach 

One of the most easily accessible beaches from NYC. The Rockaways are home to miles of mostly sandy beach and boardwalk. The boardwalk is lined with seasonal restaurants and concession stands serving everything from ceviche, pizza, burgers, arepas and ice cream. Get here by taking the East River Ferry from Wall Street or the A and S trains.

• Rippers. Come here for burgers and beer on the boardwalk.

• Tacoway Beach.  A seasonal surfers bar with board lockers, a large outdoor patio, strong margaritas and a range of delicious tacos. Try the black bean, cheese and sweet plantain tacos.

• Rockaway Brewing. One of our favorite NYC breweries with a location at Rockaway Beach and in Long Island City. They have a tap room and canned beers to go. Try the Beach Cruiser Ale and Hawaiian Pizza IPA.

Jacob Riis Beach.  Our go to beach spot in the Rockaways. It gets packed but it’s one of the most diverse and LGBTQ friendly beaches we’ve visited. We usually arrive early because it tends to get crowded by late morning.

TWA Terminal

If you find yourself at JFK, visit the TWA Terminal and Hotel. This Mid-Century masterpiece is an iconic symbol of the golden age of air travel. With numerous things to keep you occupied during a layover or night’s stay, it is a destination in itself. Order a drink in Sunken Lounge or outside in The Connie, a converted airplane bar, enjoy fine dining at the Paris Cafe and watch airplanes take off from the hotel’s rooftop pool. 

Long Island City Waterfront

The LIC waterfront is one of the most photogenic locations in NYC and a popular location for sunset proposals. The park provides sweeping views of Midtown Manhattan and is a beautiful spot to watch seaplanes land in the East River. The north end is home to Gantry Park and the neon lit Pepsi Cola Sign, a favorite spot of ours to picnic during the summer. At the heart of the park is Gantry Plaza, where dozens of food trucks line up during the late afternoon through evening. Visit the beer garden at Frank Ottomanelli's for drinks, burgers and the occasional salsa night. The south end, Hunters Point, is a favorite for its winding pathways and lush gardens. The surrounding neighborhood is home to several breweries, MoMA PS1 and a variety of restaurants and cafes, especially along Vernon Blvd. 

Getting Here.  Both Gantry Park and Hunters Point have their own East River Ferry docks making them easily accessible. In addition, the neighborhood is only one subway station east of Grand Central via the 7 Train and one north of Brooklyn via the G Train.

Take the East River Ferry 

For an inexpensive way to see the city by water, buy a ticket and hop on the East River Ferry. Ferries operate between Manhattan, Brooklyn, Queens and The Bronx for less than $4 one way. There’s also a bar on board and an outdoor deck. It’s an easy way to enjoy the waterfront, see the skyline and get to Rockaway Beach.

Eat at an All Night Diner

NYC is known as the city that never sleeps. This couldn’t be truer than at an all night diner. Characterized by their run-on menus, cake displays and signed photos of celebrities mounted to the walls, these comforting places are waiting to welcome you at any hour of the day. 

Order Street Food 

Some of the best meals we’ve had have come from unassuming street vendors. Whether it’s tacos, falafel, kimchi, an egg and cheese or pretzels, there’s likely a street cart or food truck selling it.

The Bronx 

The Bronx is the northernmost of New York City’s five boroughs. It’s home to lush green spaces, island neighborhoods and Yankee Stadium.

The Bronx Zoo & Tree Top Canopy Adventure 

An adventure park at The Bronx Zoo with zip lines, rope suspension bridges, wood plank walkways and platforms built between the canopy of trees. There are several challenge courses ranging from beginner to expert with various style activities including a zip line over the Bronx river, one where you sit in a sled and another in a kayak. The zoo is home to a world of animal life including Asian elephants, southern white rhinos, giraffes, gorillas, monkeys, red pandas and snow leopards.

Pro Tip. Visit in late June to collect feathers from the mating peacocks! 

City Island

An island neighborhood of the Bronx located in the Long Island Sound. There is a main street lined with lobster restaurants, boat marinas, bait and tackle shops, cute houses with wooden siding. Walk from one end to the next in less than an hour stopping for drinks at The Black Whale and lobster rolls at The City Island Lobster House. 

Staten Island

Staten Island is the southernmost of New York City’s five boroughs, located across the harbor from Manhattan and Brooklyn. The best way to visit is by taking The Staten Island Ferry, an iconic orange ship ferrying passengers between Staten Island and Manhattan. It’s an inexpensive way to enjoy the views of lower Manhattan, New Jersey, Brooklyn and the Statue of Liberty.

The Best Restaurants & Bars in NYC 

Writing about the best restaurants in NYC is a lofty undertaking so we created a list with our city wide favorites, neighborhood haunts, vegan and vegetarian eateries, fine dining establishments, speakeasies and rooftop bars. Read the full guide, New York City Food Guide: Best Restaurants, Bars & Dining in NYC.

New York City Food Guide: Best Restaurants, Bars & Dining in NYC

The Best Places to Eat & Drink in NYC

Writing about the best restaurants in NYC is a lofty undertaking so we created this guide with our city wide favorites, go-to neighborhood haunts, recommended vegan and vegetarian eateries, places for fine dining and celebrations, speakeasies and rooftop bars. 

Long Island City Favorites 

These neighborhood favorites keep us coming back time and time again. Having lived in Long Island City for over seven years, we’ve grown to love these neighborhood eateries. 

Tournesol

A classic French bistro where the meals and vibes are always magnifique! This neighborhood hole in the wall transports diners to Paris. The owner, chef and servers are all French expats providing an appetizing and welcoming experience. The menu consists of homestyle dishes and desserts often paired with a bottle of French wine or gin martini. As lovers of seafood, we often order staple dishes from their menu including: the moule frites, pan seared skate, seared trout or roasted hake. Some frequent specials include the poisson en papillote and bouillabaisse.

The restaurant is recognizable by its mural of a woman with a tournesol (French for sunflower) on the side of the building and a tiny red car parked out front. The dimly lit interior with white table cloths, bistro chairs, a tin ceiling and antique tiled floor provides a cozy ambiance.

Skinny’s Cantina 

One tequila. Two tequila. Three tequila. Floor! Skinny’s frozen margaritas are enough to get you buzzing or further. In addition, we regularly come here for their extremely well made fish tacos, veggie burrito and sizzling fajitas. Though more expensive than a typical tacoria, it’s worth every dollar and that’s not the tequila talking. 

Sweet Chick 

Tastes like chicken! We come here for their vegetarian chicken and waffles. A personal favorite is the spicy Nashville chicken and waffles. They also offer Southern sides like hush puppies, baked mac-n-cheese, shrimp and grits. Sweet Chick is our usual go-to for brunch with friends. We even hosted our engagement party here in their Jazz Room. 

Slice LIC

We’re not going to be so bold as to claim it’s the best pizza in NYC but it’s surely the best pizza in Long Island City! Walk-up window with a spread of NY style pizzas by the slice. We often order an assortment of slices to share including their margherita, vodka, white pie and pesto slices! 

Jora 

A Peruvian restaurant with traditional Peruvian dishes like ceviche, corn causas, arroz con mariscos and empanadas. Their Pisco bar offers Pisco forward cocktails including the classic Pisco Sour among other libations made with Peruvian ingredients. 

New York City Favorites 

New York City is a food lover’s paradise with every cuisine and type of food imaginable. With over 10,000 restaurants across the city, it would be impossible to try them all but we’ve curated a list of a few of our favorites. 

Kokomo

Everyone knows a place like Kokomo! This extravagant Caribbean restaurant in the heart of Brooklyn offers tropical vibes, rum cocktails and traditional dishes from the West Indies like whole fried red snapper, vegan curries and goat stew. 

Petit Boucherie 

One of our favorite restaurants in NYC is Petit Boucherie. It’s an intimate French Restaurant in the heart of Greenwich Village with an old world ambiance. We love coming here for their traditional absinthe drip cocktails. 

The Haab 

A hole in the wall for authentic Mexican dishes. We often come for weekend brunch ordering chilaquiles, huevos rancheros and conchas. We’ve been to both locations in Sunnyside, Queens and East Williamsburg. The East Williamsburg has a large vegan menu including dishes like seitan mole enchiladas, spicy tempeh tacos, black bean tamales and more. 

Tea and Sympathy 

Did someone say tea time? An English style restaurant for afternoon tea complete with mismatched tea cups and a tiered tower of tea sandwiches and authentic sweets like scones, sticky toffee pudding and rhubarb crumble. With English owners and staff, this tea house feels like a piece of merry ole London in the West Village. Stop into their next-door businesses, Carry On, for English teas and A Salt & Battery for fish and chips.

St. Mazie Bar & Supper Club

A genuine gem of a restaurant tucked away in Williamsburg with nightly jazz performances. The historic and warmly lit interior provides an intimate setting for a romantic date night or evening with friends. Order a spread of snacks and appetizers for the table with a bottle of wine or absinthe cocktails.

Socarrat

One of the few paella restaurants we’ve been to that makes genuine paella! Paella is prepared in a traditional pan and scraped out of the dish by the server, revealing the crunchy rice (aka socarrat) beneath. Our personal favorite is the seafood paella made with squid ink rice, scallops, shrimp and oysters. Enjoy a carafe of red, white or rose sangria on the side. 

Fine Dining 

NYC has countless fine dining restaurants worth your top dollar. Whether celebrating a birthday, anniversary, promotion or simply having a date night, these are some of our favorites. Just make sure to secure a reservation weeks ahead of time. 

The River Cafe

An iconic restaurant on a barge below the Brooklyn Bridge with contemporary American cuisine. It is a popular location for proposals and has a very strict dress code. 

Le Coucou 

A contemporary French restaurant with a refined yet unpretentious atmosphere. The menu features dishes like rabbit, duck, lobster, sea bass and our favorite, the Dover sole. A interior is illuminated with dimly lit candle style chandeliers, features an open kitchen and comfortable velvet furniture. Located in SoHo, it’s popular among celebrities and boasts a Michelin Star. 

One if by Land, Two if by Sea

A romantic restaurant with fine American cuisine served in multi-course menus with changing dishes. The dim interior glimmers with the light from candle lit chandeliers reflected off the warmth of the red brick walls and American style artwork as a pianist serenades diners throughout the night. Come during the holidays for a festive ambiance when the walls are decorated in evergreen garland. 

Omakase Room by Maaser

A simple 12 seat omakase room offering 12 and 17 course tasting menus and sake pairings. The Itamae (sushi chef) will individually prepare an assortment of sea life as pieces of sushi, sashimi, nigiri and oyster at the counter. Some pieces served are raw while others are flamed and all are balanced with the perfect level of umami flavor. 

Le Crocodile

An elevated French restaurant in an upscale area of Williamsburg. It has a slightly relaxed vibe and an antiqued interior with high ceilings, brick walls, wood paneling and warm lighting. Come for the dinner service and order the mushroom pate with black truffle, summer ratatouille, almond encrusted trout and chocolate mousse. 

Marseille

A higher end southern French restaurant specializing in Bouillabaisse, the traditional seafood stew created in Marseille, France. Come here on a romantic date night and share the Bouillabaisse between two. Sit indoors and enjoy the French styled interior with elegant decor, leather banquettes and warmly lit lighting. 

Vegan and Vegetarian Cuisine   

Restaurants across NYC cater to every palate and cuisine, as mostly plant-based, we’ve frequented several vegan and vegetarian restaurants over the years. These are some of the best we’ve been to.

Delice & Sarrasin 

An inventive French restaurant with vegan versions of classic French dishes like escargot, boeuf bourguignon, steak tartare, foie gras and French onion soup. Using pea protein, traditional preparations and a bit of ‘je ne sais quoi,’ the chef is able to create delectable dishes that elevate vegan cuisine. 

Ja Ja Ja Mexicana 

A restaurant with multiple locations across NYC known for their vegan Mexican dishes including tacos, quesadillas, burritos, tamales and enchiladas. For their base, each dish is made with veggies or vegan meats like chorizo, pollo, pescado and carnitas. At the bar, order from a range of mezcal and tequila forward cocktails with citric and floral notes. Each location has a colorfully tiled and textured interior with plants and wicker decor. 

Anixi 

A high end vegan restaurant with Turkish influences both in its food and interior. Try the mezze dips, pide flatbreads and vegan meats grilled on 14” swords. A palace like restaurant has tall ceilings, stone covered walls, a large fireplace, velvet curtains and crystal chandeliers. 

Bunna Cafe 

Head to Bushwick for plant based Ethiopian cuisine at Bunna Cafe. We come here for their injera and a combination of plant based dishes like cremini mushrooms, collard greens, spiced and pureed chickpeas, berbere seasoned lentils, seasoned yellow lentils, vegetables with cabbage and sautéed beets

Beyond Sushi 

If you like sushi, you’ll like Beyond Sushi. This restaurant creates convincingly flavorful and artful vegan sushi rolls. Seafood is made from vegetables like marinated carrot and radish, jackfruit and mushroom. 

Vegan on the Fly

A fast food style vegan restaurant in the heart of Midtown with shaved seitan gyros, vegan drumsticks, chicken sandwiches and milkshakes. 

Speakeasies 

In a city where something new lingers around every corner, some of the best surprises remain truly hidden. A few of these hidden gems are speakeasies. Here are a few of our favorites and how to get in. 

Please Don’t Tell

The entrance is located through a phone booth inside Crif Dogs on St. Marks Place. After 6pm, enter the phone booth, pick up the receiver and dial 1. The other side of the phone booth will open leading into the bar. The bar itself is known for its mixologists, often crafting custom cocktails to your taste. 

Basement Chinatown

Located in Chinatown down a flight of stairs on Mott St is a Coca Cola refrigerator door. Behind the door is a basement bar with a subtle carnival theme, emphasized by a self serve popcorn machine.

Employees Only

The entrance, hidden behind the curtains of a fortune teller’s shop in Chelsea, leads to this classy cocktail bar. The speakeasy is known for its experimental drinks and prohibition era vibes. 

Fig. 19

A speakeasy in the Lower East Side disguised as a white box art gallery. Once inside, behind a hidden door is a cozy cocktail lounge. Friday nights and weekends can get surprisingly busy.

Rooftop Bars 

A swanky NYC night out involves cocktails at a rooftop bar or lounge. We’ve gone to numerous across the city, each with a different vibe and unique view. Here’s a shortlist of some of our favorites.

The Broken Shaker

Located on the roof of the Freehand Hotel, this 70s style tiki themed rooftop features multiple bars, tropical drinks and tasty small plates.

Spyglass Rooftop

This intimate rooftop cocktail bar has some of the best views of the Empire State Building. As its name suggests, it even has a viewing periscope pointed directly at the building. 

The Boom Boom Room

Located at the top of the Standard Hotel, this iconic and ultra glitzy spot embodies the glamour of NYC. Come for the high end cocktails, live music and make sure to check out the restrooms.

Bookmarks

A cozy cocktail lounge with charcuterie, an outdoor patio (covered during the winter) a fireplace, velvet furniture and the smell of books.

Ophelia Lounge

A cocktail bar and restaurant at the top of the Art Deco style Beekman Tower with 360 city and East River views.

The MET Roof Garden Bar

Located on the rooftop of the MET, this seasonal bar features outdoor art installations, skyline views and overlooks the treetops of Central Park.

Other rooftop bars worth visiting are: Bar Blondeau, Westlight, RT60 Rooftop, PHD Dream Rooftop & Apotheke Nomad. 

Eclectic Bars Across the City 

There are a lot of eclectic and viby cocktail bars across the city. These are a few that we’ve found ourselves returning to when we’re in the area. 

Dutch Kills Bar

An old school cocktail bar only open after 5pm with a dimly lit interior and a wide range of spirits. Mixologists are known for inventing drinks based on your spirit and flavor preferences. 

Surf Bar

A beach like dive bar with a sand covered floor, surfboards on the ceiling, strings of colorful bulb lights and walls covered in natural decor and accessories. Come here for the tropical cocktails and tiki drinks. 

Joy Face

This is one of those funky NYC bars. It’s decorated like the 1970s complete with a disco ball, water bed and vintage furniture. After a couple of cocktails, we seemingly get lost in time. 

Analogue

Try a Manhattan in Manhattan! Mixologists stir, shake and serve up sipping cocktails made from strong spirits like whiskey, scotch, bourbon, rye, gin and mezcal. This dimly lit bar has a cozy feeling with leather sofas, Edison bulbs and framed black and white photos. 

Russian Samovar 

A Russian vodka and piano bar with a range of house infused vodkas steeped with dill, cucumber, horseradish, pepper, ginger, lemon, basil and more. Our personal favorite drink is the horseradish martini. Their food menu has plenty of Eastern European classics like pierogi, cured lox and Russian salads.  

Tips for Dining Out in NYC

Reservations.  Making reservations ahead of time is necessary whenever dining out in NYC. Call the restaurant directly or book online with OpenTable. Some places require a refundable deposit to hold your reservation. 

Dress Codes.  Double check restaurant websites and reviews for any dress code requirements before arriving. Generally only fine dining restaurants or exclusive bars have set dress codes.  

Tipping.  A 20% tip is standard for service across restaurants and bars in NYC. Always double check that the gratuity is not included in the final bill to avoid double tipping. 

Cash vs. Card.  Most restaurants and bars accept credit and debit cards while the occasional business will be cash only. Carry cash for street food. 

Samaná Peninsula Travel Guide: Nature, Beaches & Waterfalls

The Samaná Peninsula

The Samaná Peninsula is a remote region of the Dominican Republic with mountainous landscapes, tropical forests, dramatic waterfalls and pristine beaches. Colorful fishing boats and their captains ferry passengers between palm fringed beaches with golden sand shorelines hugged by vibrant blue waters. Marine life thrives in seagrass meadows, coral reefs and the vast Samaná Bay. Hiking trails lead through the tropical landscape to towering waterfalls while fruits like cacao, mango and banana grow wild. Dark caves feature large chambers with indigenous Taíno petroglyphs and dripping stalactites. Jungleous treehouses and oceanside hotels provide tranquil accommodations for travelers. Merengue and Bachata music play loudly from roadside colmados in local parts of town. Moto bikes buzz past, sometimes with three or more passengers holding on. Dominican cuisine and tropical cocktails are served at restaurants, kiosks and beach front bars. We spent five days exploring the Samaná Peninsula, beach hopping between towns and remote corners of the region. 

Samaná

Samaná is a large town on the coast of the Samaná Bay. It's a developing waterfront and a hub for tour operators, boutique hotels and restaurants. Boats leave from here to visit the Los Haitises National Park, Cayo Levantado and watch for whales during the migration season. 

Puente De Cayo Samaná.  A pedestrian bridge leading from Playa Cayacoa to Cayo Vigía, a small forested island in the Samaná Bay. The bridge offers beautiful views of the town’s waterfront and boat speckled harbor. Orange starfish, spotted eagle rays and schools of fish can be seen in the shallow waters beneath the bridge. 

Glamour Restaurant Snack Bar.  A kiosk specializing in Dominican cuisine set along Samaná waterfront with views of the harbor and bridge. Come here for the mixed seafood mofongo and lambi (conch) cooked in the peninsula’s famed coco sauce. 

Cayo Levantado (Bacardi Island).  An island in the Samaná Bay with a public palm lined white sand beach, various restaurant kiosks, tropical bars, souvenir shops and a luxury resort. Many tours around the Samaná Bay stop here during the afternoon for beach time and lunch. There is a small snorkeling area near the offshore rocks. The island is nicknamed after a Bacardi advertisement from the 1970s. 

Los Haitises National Park.  A vast landscape on the southern side of the Samaná Bay defined by its karst islands, mangrove forests, brackish rivers and caves systems with 600 year old Taíno petroglyphs. 

Cueva de La Linea.  A large cave once home to hundreds of indigenous Taíno. The cave walls are covered in illustrations and petroglyphs depicting animals, hunting scenes, dancing people and swaddled babies.  

Cueva de La Arena.  A coastal cave system with a series of sandy chambers and flooded passageways that open up to the forest and bay. 

Getting Here.  We visited both the Los Haitises National Park and Cayo Levantado on a day trip from Samaná with Coprixa Travels on Get Your Guide. The tour included water, rum cocktails and a buffet lunch on Cayo Levantado. 

Las Terrenas

Las Terrenas is a bustling beach town with lengthy golden sand beaches, boutique resorts, open air restaurants, oceanfront bars, souvenir shops and colmados. It’s popular amongst independent travelers, European expats and wealthier locals. 

Beaches in Las Terrenas

Playa Las Terrenas.  A lengthy golden sand beach with calm swimmable waters and palm lined shores. It’s one of the most easily accessible beaches in Las Terrenas yet sparsely crowded making it a relaxing place to sunbathe and swim. A beachfront walkway follows the coastline leading to oceanfront restaurants and neighboring beaches. 

Playa Punta Popy.  A popular golden sand beach at the far eastern point of Playa Las Terrenas. Its shallow turquoise waters are an inviting place to cool off during the mid afternoon heat while beach vendors rent lounges and umbrellas beneath the cover of an expansive palm grove. There is an official parking lot, costing 100 Dominican Pesos for the full day. 

Playa Casa Blanca.  A sandy beach in the center of Las Terrenas with over a dozen beachfront kiosks offering Dominican cuisine and fresh caught seafood. Fishermen can frequently be seen cleaning their catch onshore while small boats and dining tables dot the sand. Sit down at Dulce Playa for the Samaná Peninsula’s famed Pescado con Coco, a whole fried red snapper covered in sauce made from coconut milk, tomato and garlic. 

Good to Know.  Prices are much more affordable here than at the restaurants in town, often excluding the 18% government fee. 

Playa Cosón.  An expansive golden sand beach with a verdant palm lined shore. Its western cove is largely undeveloped, making it a popular place to swim, sunbathe, barbecue and surf. The eastern cove is largely privatized with luxury residential developments and beachfront resorts. 

• The Cosón River.  A freshwater river that lets out at Cosón Beach, creating a large shallow pool with refreshingly cool and clear waters. It’s popular with locals and families looking to cool off from the heat. 

• Valerio en Playa Cosón.  A beachfront restaurant at Cosón Beach serving freshly caught seafood  dishes and tropical cocktails served in pineapples. They’re cash only. 

• Enoha Surf School.  A surf shack at Cosón Beach with board rentals and surf lessons. We missed out on the chance to surf in the leisurely waves but enjoyed watching. 

• Beach Parking.  Free parking is available at a lot near the Enoha Surf School and along the sandy road between it and The Cosón River.

Snorkeling in Las Terrenas

Playa Las Ballenas.  A lengthy beach with a densely palm fringed shoreline. Beachfront kiosks rent lounges, serve island cuisine and tropical cocktails under the shade of the palms. Beneath the aquamarine waters are meadows of seagrass and large coral structures home to colorful corals, tropical fish, swaying anemones and sea urchins. 

Pro Tip.  Bring your own snorkel gear and swim out about 100 meters past the shallow seagrass meadows to reach the corals. Swim straight out at the beachfront across from the Apartamento Palmerai.

Playa El Portillo.  A golden sand beach with a palm lined shoreline. It’s one of Las Terrenas least developed and most natural beaches with offshore meadows of seagrass and lively coral gardens home to anemones, tiny fish and urchins. Come here to sunbathe, swim and snorkel.

Pro Tip.  Alternating fields of seagrass and coral structures are easily reachable from shore. Bring your own snorkel gear and swim out from the El Mosquito Beach Bar. Stick around for a rum cocktail at sunset!

Places to Eat & Drink in Las Terrenas 

Las Terrenas is the main hub on the Samaná Peninsula to dine out and drink with the largest range of local and international options. 

Totem Las Terrenas.  A beachfront restaurant with Dominican cuisine, Spanish style tapas, Italian pastas and a chalk board menu with daily specials. Come here for the dorado (mahi mahi) and mango ceviche or Masa de Cangrejo with a side of plantain tostones. 

El Loro Restaurante & Beach Bar.  A romantic beachfront restaurant with a twinkle light lit dining room placed in the sand. It’s a popular place to watch the sunset, enjoy a cocktail and savor fresh seafood dishes. Try the octopus carpaccio, seafood risotto, yuca frites and passion fruit pavlova. 

Sol y Sombra.  A restaurant in the center of Las Terrenas with a menu of European style dishes like tuna carpaccio, mahi mahi croquettes and mushroom gnocchi. Come here for a full meal to simply enjoy a glass of wine in their atmospheric patio furnished with tropical and bohemian decor.

Chin Chin Cocktail Club.  A cocktail lounge located in an outdoor garden surrounded by fruiting cacao trees and tropical plants. Mixologists serve innovative cocktails and refined versions of several classics. It’s a worthwhile destination located on the edge of town. 

El Limón

El Limón is a small mountain town with an energetic and local atmosphere. People gather at colmados while bachata echos aloud, farm stands display freely harvested fruits and vegetables and children swim in a river fed swimming pool. The town is located near remote beaches and the famed waterfall, Salto El Limón. 

Salto El Limón Waterfall.  A 130 foot tall waterfall in the middle of the lush and rugged tropical jungle. White water cascades down its craggy cliffside, creating a strong breeze and cooling mist. An emerald pool resides at its base, enticing those looking for a refreshing swim. It’s accessible after hiking on foot or by horse back from a number of different trail heads. 

Getting Here.  The falls are reachable after a 45 minute hike down gravel roads, muddy trails, river crossings, paved paths and steep stairs.

• Trail Head.  Start hiking from the parking lot of Entrada al Salto del Limón. A rocky road and gravel trail leads about 20 minutes through tropical jungle and farmland to the El Limón River. 

• River Crossing.  Stop at the El Limón River to view the “Cascada Más Pequeña”. Wade through the river to merge paths with the Sendero Rancho Español.

• Sendero Rancho Español.  A paved trail, often traversed on horseback. It leads 20 minutes past the Cascada Pequeña to the El Limón Welcome Center.

• El Limón Welcome Center.  Stop here to purchase wristbands (tickets) to access the waterfall. Entrance fees cost 100 Dominican Pesos (less than $2 USD). A steep staircase leads 5 minutes further to the base of the falls. 

Pro Tip.  Arrive early to avoid the crowds and experience the falls in the morning light. Begin hiking between 7-8am to arrive at Salto El Limón prior to 9am.

Cascada Pequeña.  A beautiful yet often overlooked waterfall along the Sendero Rancho Español leading to Salto El Limón. Streams of white water cascade over a 30 foot drop into a river pool surrounded by lush trees. 

Cascada Más Pequeña.  Not its official name nor is it even named, this small waterfall flows over an 8ft drop along the El Limón River where the trail starting at Entrada al Salto del Limón meets the Sendero Rancho Español. 

Rancho Romana Ecolodge Park.  A secluded ecolodge built into the jungleous landscape with elegantly designed treehouses, tropical fruiting trees and early access to Salto El Limón. The ecolodge is reachable after a 10 minute hike while its location in the middle of the Samaná Peninsula is 30 minutes by car from the beach towns of Samaná and Las Terrenas. Book on Airbnb. 

Las Galeras

Las Galeras is a small beach town on the far eastern side of the Samaná Peninsula. Restaurants, bars and colmados flank the town’s central road leading to its main beach. The town is quieter during the day but becomes very lively at night. French is commonly spoken here, influenced by French travelers and Haitian immigrants. The surrounding region is home to pristine beaches and coastal rock formations. 

Playa Rincón.  A remote beach with soft sands and a vast palm fringed shoreline that stretches for well over a mile. Colorful fishermen’s boats sit onshore while kiosks prepare the day’s catch, fresh coconuts and Dominican rum cocktails. Vendors rent beach lounges under the palms while captains offer passage to nearby beaches. The western side is the most popular while the eastern side is the most tranquil. 

Parking.  Parking at Playa Rincón is free and monitored by the local police. Officers provide a tag to place on your dashboard while entering the beach.

Caño Frío.  A shallow river with clear aquamarine waters letting out at the western side of Playa Rincón. Locals wade in the river to cool down during peak afternoon heat while children play in its shallow waters. It’s possible to walk up its sandy riverbed or paddle upstream in a canoe to see the dense mangrove forest flanking its banks. 

Playa Frille.  A picturesque beach with golden sands, bright turquoise waters and a verdant palm covered tree line.  The beach is reachable by walking or driving beyond the eastern side of Playa Rincón. 

Playa Breman.  A pristine and picturesque beach that easily ranks as one of the prettiest we’ve experienced. Palm trees reach out over its tan sand shoreline towards the vibrant blue waters and unspoiled coastline. The beach is reachable by trail from Playa Frille. It passes beneath a canopy of palm trees, muddy sections and agricultural farmland with cacao and banana trees. 

Playa del Amor.  A tiny cove with a white sand beach and calm swimmable waters. It’s reachable after hiking a hilly and forested trail from the eastern side of Playa Breman. 

Playa Colorada.  A remote golden sand beach with swimmable turquoise waters and coastal rock formations. The beach is reachable after hiking over a rugged hillside trail from Playa del Amor and following a gravel road past a series of villas towards the beach. 

Bufadora Samaná.  A roadside blowhole on coastal route 5, located about 10 minutes from Las Galeras. Ocean waves crash into the jagged cliffside, rocketing a jet of water and mist from a small opening in the rock.

La Hondonada.  A beautiful sea arch separating a flooded cove from the turbulent ocean. It’s located just past the Bufadora Samaná en route to Las Galeras. Park along the roadside of coastal route 5, walking a few minutes along a cinder block wall to reach the viewpoint. 

Bahía de Las Galeras.  A white sand beach in the town of Las Galeras. It’s a popular place to watch the sunset and hire boat captains for transportation to hard to reach beaches. Several beachfront kiosks serve tropical cocktails like piña coladas prepared in whole pineapples. 

Marakana.  An “Italian” restaurant specializing in wood fired pizzas, pastas and seafood. Order their namesake, a sauce-less pizza made with gooey mozzarella cheese and topped with sliced mozzarella, onions caramelized in red wine, seared tuna and pesto.

El Valle

El Valle is a very remote area of the Samaná Peninsula nestled within a verdant valley. The region is home to jungleous landscapes with waterfalls, treehouse hotels, a zip-line park, lengthy tan sand beach and rural community. 

Playa El Valle.  A secluded tan sand beach flanked by two lush mountainsides and karst cliffs. A series of caves and rock formations divides the beach in half where a cool stream flows forth. Sea turtles frequently nest onshore, leaving behind sandy divots where baby turtles hatched from. Fishermen boats and captains wait onshore to ferry passengers to neighboring beaches. There are a couple small campgrounds, accommodations and kiosks lining the western side of the beach. 

Good to Know.  This is about the only place where vendors were extremely persistent, asking us to pay for parking or hire their services for tours. Simply ignore them and continue walking. 

Samaná Zipline El Valle.  A thrilling zipline park in the middle of the tropical forest with 12 lines that criss-cross the scenic valley below. A steep hike up the mountainside leads to the first platform with a 1,000 foot long zip line suspended 350 feet above the valley. It and each following line offers breathtaking views of the valley from about every angle, including glimpses of Cascada Lulu and the thatched huts of the Dominican Tree House Village. 

Good to Know.  They’re open on Wednesday to Monday from 9am to 4pm and only take cash payments. Request to book online and confirm the latest pricing before arrival. 

Bésame Mucho.  A roadside food truck specializing in baked Argentine style empanadas filled with cheese, vegetables and meats. 

Good to Know.  There is little to no cell service in El Valle. A 4x4 is required when navigating El Valle’s rough roads. 

Dominican Cuisine & Drinks 

Pescado con Coco.  A dish local to the Samaná Peninsula made with a fried, grilled or steamed fish simmered in a creamy coconut milk, tomato and garlic sauce.

Pan de Coco.  A pillowy and semi-sweet flat bread made exclusively in the Samaná Peninsula with fresh coconut milk. The bread is cooked in wood fired dutch ovens at roadside bakeries and sold by vendors across the peninsula. 

Mangú.  A green plantain and root vegetable puree commonly eaten at breakfast. The dish is often garnished with pickled or caramelized onions and paired with fried cheese, salami and eggs. 

Sancocho Dominicano.  A Caribbean style stew often cooked with a mixture of meats and vegetables like beef, pork, chicken, yuca, plantains and yautía. It’s typically meat forward but can be prepared and served vegetarian. 

Asopao.  A Caribbean soup made from a tomato broth with rice and sofrito. It can be prepared with or without meat or seafood. 

Masa de Cangrejo.  A traditional Dominican dish made with stewed crab simmered in a tomato based sauce with peppers, onions, garlic and olives. 

Mofongo.  A fried green plantain mash often served with a savory tomato sauce and protein like seafood or meat. 

Tostones.  Twice fried and smashed green plantains often served as a side dish. 

Tapas.  Spanish style tapas and cuisine are immensely popular across the Dominican Republic. Common dishes include grilled octopus, paella and ceviche. 

Fruits.  Tropical and exotic fruits grow abundantly across the island. Try fresh cacao, red bananas, papaya, pineapple, coconut, passion fruit and mountain apples. 

Presidente.  The national beer of the Dominican Republic. It comes in three varieties: original, light and black. 

Santo Libre.  A Dominican cocktail made with Sprite and amber or gold rum. It’s the Dominican Republic’s response to Cuba’s Cuba Libre cocktail. 

Mama Juana.  A popular tonic served, sold and made at home all across the Dominican Republic. It consists of rum and red wine aged in a bottle for a minimum of two weeks with a mixture of wood, bark, vines and spices. 

Location Specifics

When to Visit.  Visit during the shoulder season in May. The weather is sunny, warm and pleasant. The crowds are often small to non-existent. Some businesses may already be closed for the “off season.”

Cash vs Card.  Credit cards are widely accepted across the Samaná Peninsula however cash payments are often the only option at beach kiosks, colmados, small shops and fruit stands. Both the Dominican Peso and US Dollar are widely accepted. 

Taxes & Tipping.  There is a mandatory 18% tax on all purchases and a legally applied 10% tip at most restaurants, cafes and bars. Tipping beyond that is discretionary, anything from 5-10% more is typical for great service.

General Safety.  The Samaná Peninsula is very safe and tourist friendly. Exercise typical travel precautions and check for the latest information with government sources. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Rights remain restricted on the national level however; there is general acceptance of lesbian and gay couples. PDA is typically frowned upon. 

Dress Codes.  Unlike in Santo Domingo, there are no dress codes for dining out. Flip flops, sandals, shorts, low cut dresses and tank tops are typically allowed. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe to consume in the Samaná Peninsula. Stick to bottled water. 

Toilets.  Plumbing is fragile at most accommodations and restaurants. Toilets often require dumping water down them to flush while used toilet paper is asked to be placed in a bin. 

Getting Around 

Moto Taxis.  Moto taxis are the most popular way of getting around within the Samaná Peninsula’s beach towns. Look for drivers with a neon vest. They’ll often ride up next to you while walking through town. Fares are often inexpensive, ranging from 50-200 pesos to travel short distances. 

Boat Taxis.  The most efficient way to get from beach to beach is by hiring a boat. Captains often wait at beaches and offer tour routes for a negotiable fee. Ask around for the best pricing and negotiate. Costs range from $25-$40 USD per person for half days and $80-$100 USD for full days.

Quads & ATVs.  The narrow roads in the Samaná Peninsula’s beach towns can make driving a full sized car challenging. Most tourists often rent Quads or ATVs from in town agencies. 

Driving in the Dominican Republic 

Driving is one of the best ways to get around the Samaná Peninsula and the Dominican Republic, however it’s not for the faint of heart. While roads are generally well maintained, be prepared for aggressive drivers, speeding moto bikes, free for all parking on roadsides and pedestrians darting across streets. 

• Car Rentals.  There are several reputable car rental agencies at the Santo Domingo International Airport including Avis, Budget and Payless. 

• Speed Limits. Speed limits vary depending on locations. Highways are generally 80kph, rural roads are 40-60kph and inner city roads are 20-40kph. 

• Police Stops.  Dominican police often set up speed traps on highways to ticket speeding drivers. Dominican military often set up check points to review documents. 

• Toll Booths.  There are several toll booths between Santo Domingo and the Samaná Peninsula. Most rental cars include a pre-paid toll pass however most booths also accept Dominican Pesos. Tolls range from 100-400 pesos, adding up to about 1,000 pesos. There are no tolls once on the Samaná Peninsula. 

• Parking.  Free parking is allowed essentially anywhere without a “no parking” sign or yellow painted curb. There are often fake parking attendants sitting outside beach parking lots charging 100 pesos to “watch your car.” 

• Falling Fruits.  Beware of falling fruits. Don’t park underneath coconut, papaya or cacao trees. 

• Aggressive Drivers.  Many drivers are aggressive. They will often ride your bumper, speed past you into oncoming traffic and cut you off. 

• Speed Bumps.  Be vigilant of steep speed bumps, especially on rural and inner city roads. Cross them slowly and with caution. 

• Rain Trenches.  Roadsides are often flanked by deep trenches to collect and quickly move water after tropical rains. 

• Refueling.  Attendants refuel vehicles for you at gas stations. Gas is sold by the liter and priced in Dominican pesos. Most gas stations accept credit cards. 

• Offline Maps.  Download offline maps prior to driving in the Dominican Republic. Cell service often cuts out in the mountains and remote areas. 

Bonus Waterfall 

Midway along the road trip between Santo Domingo and the Samaná Peninsula is a remote waterfall, Natural Monument Salto de Socoa. The waterfall cascades over a 40 foot tall cliff into a natural swimming pool. It’s a beautiful place to come for a swim, picnic or simply to enjoy nature.

Getting Here. The waterfall is only accessible with a 4x4 vehicle. It’s located here on Google Maps. Carry Dominican Pesos for the small entrance fee. 

Elsewhere in The Dominican Republic 

From the waterfalls and beaches of Samaná to Santo Domingo's colonial architecture and cultural heritage, continue exploring the diverse landscapes of the Dominican Republic.

Santo Domingo Travel Guide: Zona Colonial, History & Culture.  Discover the Samaná Peninsula's tropical forests, waterfalls and pristine beaches where mountainous landscapes showcase the Dominican Republic's natural beauty.

For Next Time… 

The Samaná Peninsula is truly a magical place with pristine beaches, lush mountainous landscapes and energetic beach towns. We plan to return and have several ideas for places to visit and things to do on our next trip. 

Whale Migration Season.  Humpback whales migrate into the Samaná Bay during February and March. Local operators offer tours to watch them breach the surface, mate and give birth. 

Whale Museum of Samaná.  A small natural history museum dedicated to the Samaná Bay and its migratory humpback whales. It features a whale skeleton and Taíno artifacts and carved whale bones. 

La Fábrica Samaná Café y Cacao.  A coffee and cocoa finca with a roasting and production facility. They offer regular tours in Spanish and English.

Surfing at Cosón Beach.  The beach is sandy with a year round surf break perfect for beginners from late spring to early fall and experienced surfers from late fall to early spring. Visit Enoha Surf School for board rentals and lessons. 

Playa Frontón.  A remote cliffside beach reachable with a palm lined shore and underwater rock formations. It’s reachable on foot via a reportedly dangerous trail or safely by boat from Las Galeras. 

Hike Parque Nacional Cabo Cabrón.  A remote national park with untouched forest, rugged landscapes and hiking trails. A 12.5km trail leads from the western side of Playa Rincón to a tidal rock pool at its northern tip. 

Santo Domingo Travel Guide: Zona Colonial, History & Culture

Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic

Santo Domingo, the bustling capital of the Dominican Republic, is a vibrant hub of Dominican culture, flavorful cuisine and rhythmic music. Its rich history and heritage are well preserved in the Zona Colonial while its Caribbean coastline adds to the warm and inviting atmosphere. 

Zona Colonial

The Zona Colonial is the historic heart of Santo Domingo and the oldest European settlement in the Americas. It’s a place where history and modern Dominican life meet. Remnants of the coral stone walls and gates frame the easily walkable neighborhood. Its brick paved streets pass colorful colonial buildings, cannon lined fortresses, centuries old cathedrals and the ruins of crumbling structures. Flowering walkways and Caribbean views show off the city’s tropical glamour. Verdant parks and lively plazas serve as gathering spaces for locals. Rhythms of Bachata and Merengue echo from homes and restaurants. Restaurants serve Dominican cuisine, coffee shops serve Dominican coffee and bars mix cocktails with Dominican rum. While the Zona Colonial can be explored in a day, it’s best to visit over multiple days to enjoy everything the city has to offer at a slower pace. 

Walk the Calles & Barrios

El Conde.  A lengthy pedestrian street brimming with restaurants, cafes, souvenir stores, art galleries, cigar shops, historic sites and street vendors. The whole length dissects the Zona Colonial, starting at Las Escalinatas del Conde and ending at Parque Independencia. 

Calle Padre Billini.  A beautiful street with historic buildings, elegant cathedrals, lush plazas and side streets lined with colorful colonial homes. The most picturesque section is between Calle Las Damas and Calle José Reyes. 

Cuesta de la Calle Hostos.  A hilly section of Calle Hostos with views of its colorfully painted homes and buildings near the ruins of the San Francisco Monastery and the ruins of Hospital San Nicolás de Bari. At the time, the street was closed for repairs making it less navigable on foot. 

Calle las Damas.  A street considered the oldest in the Americas, dating back to the city’s founding over 500 years ago. It’s flanked by stone and brick buildings and historic sites like Panteón de la Patria, Plaza María de Toledo and the Fortaleza Ozama. 

Callejón de Regina.  A residential side street with homes draped in flowering bushes, overgrown vines, potted plants and palm trees. It’s a tranquil place to visit in the early morning as the city awakens. Come here to enjoy a coffee and pastry at the Corner Cafe. 

Malecón.  A waterfront boulevard stretching for miles from the Zona Colonial into the city proper. It’s a popular place for its Caribbean views and coastal restaurants. 

Santa Bárbara.  An Afro-Caribbean neighborhood in the Zona Colonial with colorful graffiti and murals depicting Dominican culture and indigenous Taino heritage. 

Visit the Parks and Plazas 

Parque Colón.  A historic and lively plaza in the center of the Zona Colonial. Musicians perform for tips both day and night while local guides offer walking tours of the old town. Restaurants with outdoor patios spill out onto the street lining one side while the Catedral Primada de las Américas flanks the opposite. A statue of Columbus stands at its center, surrounded by tree shaded walkways and benches. 

Plaza de España.  A large plaza flanked by several restaurants and cafes with outdoor patios and rooftops overlooking it. The tree lined and palm fringed plaza is home to Diego Columbus’ home, Alcázar de Colón and an impressive section of the city’s protective wall. 

Plaza María de Toledo.  A lively plaza nestled alongside the Panteón de la Patria with a brick arched fountain, parlor palm plantings and benches. Locals gather here during the evenings to enjoy a Presidente beer, paleta or slice of pizza from nearby colmados and restaurants. It’s home to a Sunday bazaar with vendors selling brass antiques, clay artifacts and paintings. 

The Old Fortress Plaza.  A historic plaza on the north end of Calle Las Damas with colonial stone buildings, a brick chapel, a cannon lined lookout and sculptural artwork. 

Parque Fray Bartolomé de las Casas.  A small park on Calle Padre Billini home to a daily market of vendors selling handmade jewelry and fresh fruit juices. 

Parque Duarte.  A historic park on Calle Padre Billini surrounded by historic colonial architecture, elegant cathedrals and some small bars. The park is named after one of the Dominican Republic’s founders, honored with a bronze statue at its center. 

Parque Montesino.  A verdant city park and recreational space on the edge of the Zona Colonial with cannon lined forts, a colorfully painted skate park and basketball courts. 

Los Tres Ojos.  A nature park inside of a partially collapsed cave system with four turquoise and  emerald lagoons. Staircases and jungleous trails lead underground to platforms overlooking the lagoons. Cave ceilings are covered in dripping stalactites, dangling vines and the occasional colony of bats. While visible from an above ground nature trail, the largest lagoon is only accessible by riding on a rope pulled ferry through one lagoon and walking through a dark cave to its observation deck. The park is reachable 15 minutes by car from the Zona Colonial.

See the Sights 

Fortaleza Ozama.  A medieval fortress built from coral stones during the 16th century to protect the colonial city from pirate attacks. A staircase leads into the levels and cells of the tower to a lookout with views of the grounds and Ozama River. Narrated animated films recount the history of the city, its population and notable figures. Its grounds sit behind an extensively cannon lined wall with support structures like a gunpowder magazine and cistern.

Puerta de Don Diego (Puerta de la Mar).  A stone gate along the colonial wall decorated in a series of Spanish military seals between the Plaza España and Batería Baja de San Diego, a section of the wall lined with cannons and guard towers. 

Ruinas Aduana Colonial.  A series of ruins on the outside of the wall near the Alcázar de Colón. A plaza encompasses excavated sites with the exposed fountains of former stone buildings. 

Puerta de la Misericordia.  A historic gate along the colonial era wall of the Zona Colonial, recognizable by its coral stone and orange tinted plaster facade. It’s revered for its importance in the battle for Dominican independence. 

Fuerte San Gil.  A small defensive fortress perched on a cliffside overlooking the Caribbean. It’s easily accessible while walking the Malecón. 

Alcázar de Colón (Fortress of Columbus).  A Spanish style castle built by Diego Columbus, the son of Christopher Columbus. It’s now a museum housing colonial era artifacts. It was closed and under renovation when we visited but visible from the Plaza España. 

Panteón de la Patria.  A stately mausoleum on Calle Las Damas entombing the remains of honored Dominicans. Visit at 8am for the daily flag raising ceremony performed by military guards. 

Hospital San Nicolás de Bari.  The crumbling brick and stone ruins of a 500+ year old colonial era hospital. It’s a picturesque sight visible from beyond its gated fence.

The Ruins of San Francisco.  The crumbling brick and stone ruins of a colonial era monastery. They can be viewed from the surrounding streets and partially explored but not entered. 

Catedral Primada de las Américas.  The first cathedral built in the Americas, dating back over 500 years. Its coral stone exterior is reminiscent of a medieval fortress with Gothic windows, large wooden doors, decorative emblems and statues. Its tall vaulted interior is lined with pews, gilded statues, small chapels and tombs. 

Iglesia Conventual de los Dominicos.  A 16th century Dominican cathedral with an ornamented entrance decorated with plasterwork, handprinted tiles, coral stone, red brick and a mustard orange painted facade. There is an unusual bronze sculpture of Jesus, only recognizable by the wounds in his feet, sleeping on a park bench. 

Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen.  A small brick and plaster church with a singular bell tower above its door. It’s located next to the Iglesia Conventual de los Dominicos. 

Catedral Castrense de Santa Bárbara.  A picturesque red brick and coral stone cathedral with colorful stained glass windows and a neo-classical style bell tower. The cathedral is surrounded by a park with bronze statues depicting Dominican life, important figures and scenes from the Bible.

Fuerte Santa Bárbara.  A cannon lined lookout platform at one corner of the city’s wall. It’s accessible from the amphitheater behind the Catedral Castrense de Santa Bárbara.

Ron Barceló Factory Tour

Rum is a major export from the Dominican Republic with Ron Barceló bring one of the Caribbean nation’s top producers. A factory tour is one of the best ways to learn about and taste Dominican rum!

The tour begins at the welcome center with an introduction to the history of rum making in the Dominican Republic. A guide leads through multiple warehouses lined floor to ceiling with oak barrels filled with aging rum before visiting the barrel workshop, where barrels are repaired and their interiors are flamed. The tour overlooks the production areas where barrels are filled and sealed for aging, as well as the large stainless steel tanks used for distillation and storage. A window peers into the bottling facility, where bottles are filled, labeled and boxed for distribution. The experience returns to the welcome center with a deeper dive into Ron Barceló’s history, accompanied by a house cocktail and concluding with a tasting of three different rums. Book the Ron Barcelo Anejo Experience Factory Tour with transportation from Santo Domingo with Mama Juana Travel.

Good to Know.  The factory is located over an hour from Santo Domingo’s Zona Colonial. 

Places to Shop

Galería Bolós.  An art gallery featuring purchasable works by Dominican artists including paintings, sculptures, objects and jewelry. We purchased a wooden sculpture of a banana bunch!

La Casa de los Dulces.  A colmado specializing in traditional Dominican sweets made from ingredients like coconut, sugar cane, sweetened condensed milk, peanuts and tamarind. 

Amber Museum.  A museum dedicated to Dominican amber, prized for its clarity and inclusions of ancient insects. Their museum shop sells certified and genuine amber jewelry sourced from mines in the country. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Morrofino Bar de Tapas.  A Spanish style tapas restaurant with an outdoor patio overlooking the Plaza España. Come here for the most perfectly cooked seafood paellas, grilled Galician octopus and red wine sangria. 

Maraca.  An elevated Dominican restaurant specializing in tapas like tuna ceviche, breadfruit and plantain tostones, deep fried goat cheese olives and fried fish tacos. The restaurant is hidden behind a pink painted door in an art deco style building. It opens up to an extravagant interior styled with bohemian and tropical decor. 

Jalao.  An energetic restaurant in Parque Colón with Dominican cuisine and musical performances. Come here for the Sancocho, Asopao and house made Mama Juana. 

Alterno Café.  A coffee shop serving Dominican coffee and local pastries like canella (cinnamon) rolls and queso de hoja (cheese) empanadas.

Casa Barista & Co.  An elevated coffee shop with Dominican grown coffee and Dominican breakfast dishes like Arepa Dominicana made with ripe plantain and queso de hoja or Mangú, a puree made with a mixture of plantain, yautía and ñame.

Museo del Ron Dominicano.  A bar specializing in Dominican rums with craft cocktails and rum tastings. It’s housed inside of a museum space with galleries of historic rum making artifacts, rum barrels and sugar cane plantings.  

Parada 77.  A vibrant hub for nightlife, music and dancing! Come here during the late nights and on weekends for Presidente beers and a Santo Libre while listening to the Merengue and Bachata beats. 

Colmado Omar.  A traditional Dominican convenience store specializing in alcoholic beverages, particularly local beers like Presidente and rums like Barcelo and Brugal. Visit Colmado Omar I and sit at the bar counter or Colmado Omar II and join locals in the Plaza María de Toledo. 

D Comer Colonial.  An affordable buffet style restaurant specializing in Dominican and Creole cuisine. They offer freshly prepared dishes that can accommodate vegetarians, pescatarians and meat-eaters.

República Brewing Draft Room.  A tap room pouring a range of Dominican craft beers. Come here for a flight to taste multiple styles and flavors. Try the Mangu Sour made with tropical fruits and the Porter made with cocoa.  

Onno’s Bar.  A lively bar with a large list of classic cocktails and menu of food. It’s a chain with locations across the country. Beware of their “fake” happy hours. 

Paletas Bajo Cero.  An ice cream shop selling dozens of fruit and milk based flavors of paletas (popsicles). Try the watermelon with mint, avocado with sweet milk, coconut lemonade and tequila with red fruit. 

Yuppi.  A takeaway bar offering frozen fruit cocktails like passion fruit daiquiris, classic mojitos, strawberry margaritas and piña coladas.

Dominican Cuisine & Drinks 

Mangú.  A green plantain and root vegetable puree commonly eaten at breakfast. The dish is often garnished with pickled or caramelized onions and paired with fried cheese, salami and eggs. 

Sancocho Dominicano.  A Caribbean style stew often cooked with a mixture of meats and vegetables like beef, pork, chicken, yuca, plantains and yautía. It’s typically meat forward but can be prepared and served vegetarian. 

Asopao.  A Caribbean soup made from a tomato broth with rice and sofrito. It can be prepared with or without meat or seafood. 

Pescado con Coco.  A dish local to the Samaná Peninsula made with a fried, grilled or steamed fish simmered in a creamy coconut milk, tomato and garlic sauce.

Mofongo.  A fried green plantain mash often served with a savory tomato sauce and protein like seafood or meat. 

Tostones.  Twice fried and smashed green plantains often served as a side dish. 

Tapas.  Spanish style tapas and cuisine are immensely popular across the Dominican Republic. Common dishes include grilled octopus, paella and ceviche. 

Fruits.  Tropical and exotic fruits grow abundantly across the island. Try fresh cacao, red bananas, papaya, pineapple, coconut, passion fruit and mountain apples. 

Presidente.  The national beer of the Dominican Republic. It comes in three varieties: original, light and black. 

Santo Libre.  A Dominican cocktail made with Sprite and amber or gold rum. It’s the Dominican Republic’s response to Cuba’s Cuba Libre cocktail. 

Mama Juana.  A popular tonic served, sold and made at home all across the Dominican Republic. It consists of rum and red wine aged in a bottle for a minimum of two weeks with a mixture of wood, bark, vines and spices. 

Location Specifics

Dress Codes.  There is a strictly enforced dress code at most restaurants and bars. No flip flops, sandals, shorts, low cut dresses or tank tops are allowed.

Cash vs. Card.  Most businesses accept credit cards in Santo Domingo though carrying some cash comes in handy for museum tickets and small expenses. Both the Dominican Peso and US Dollar are widely accepted. 

Taxes & Tipping.  There is a mandatory 18% tax on all purchases and a legally applied 10% tip at most restaurants, cafes and bars. Tipping beyond that is discretionary, anything from 5-10% more is typical for great service. 

Closed Days.  Many sights, restaurants and businesses are closed on Monday and Tuesday.  

General Safety.  The Zona Colonial is a safe neighborhood that only requires typical precautions. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Rights remain restricted on the national level however; there is general acceptance of lesbian and gay couples. PDA is typically frowned upon. 

Getting Around.  The Zona Colonial is very walkable and best explored on foot. To get around elsewhere in the city and between the airport, use Uber. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe to consume in Santo Domingo. Stick to bottled water. 

Beaches.  There are no clean beaches in Santo Domingo. The waters near the city are heavily polluted.

Where to Stay 

Casa Santa Bárbara.  A vacation rental in the Santa Bárbara neighborhood of the Zona Colonial.  The two bedroom apartment is equipped with a full kitchen, bathroom and separate outdoor shower. It shares an outdoor courtyard and rooftop patio with the hosts. The entire home feels like an art gallery with Dominican paintings, sculptures and decor. Book on Airbnb.

Elsewhere in The Dominican Republic 

From the historic streets of Santo Domingo to lush mountain landscapes, waterfalls and pristine beaches, discover more of the Dominican Republic beyond its capital.

Samaná Peninsula Travel Guide: Nature, Beaches & Waterfalls.  The Samaná Peninsula is a remote region of the Dominican Republic with mountainous landscapes, tropical forests, dramatic waterfalls and pristine beaches.

For Next Time…

There were renovations being completed on multiple sites and streets during our time in Santo Domingo. When we return, we plan to re-visit them for a fuller experience. 

Museo de Las Casas Reales.  The former capital of colonial Santo Domingo converted into a museum with colonial era artifacts. 

Alcázar de Colón (Fortress of Columbus).  A Spanish style castle built by Diego Columbus, the son of Christopher Columbus. It’s now a museum housing colonial era artifacts. 

Cuesta de la Calle Hostos.  A hilly section of Calle Hostos with views of its colorfully painted homes and buildings. 

Costa Rica Road Trip Guide: Arenal Volcano, Manuel Antonio & Wildlife Adventures

Costa Rica, Nature & Biodiversity

Costa Rica is a lush and biodiverse country in Central America known for its tropical rainforests, active volcanoes, nature reserves and exotic wildlife. We spent a week road tripping across the country, splitting our time equally between the Arenal Volcano in the mountains and Manuel Antonio Park on the Pacific coast.

San José, The Gateway to Costa Rica 

San José is the capital city and gateway to Costa Rica. Located in the center of the country, it’s an easy point to begin and end any road trip from. We flew in around midnight and spent the evening at the nearby Hotel Mango before beginning our road trip the following morning. Reserve a rental car with Sixt.

Volcán Arenal 

The Arenal Volcano is known for its symmetrical cone shape, hardened lava fields, hiking trails and large lake. We drove here from San José and arrived by early afternoon then hiked for about 3 hours. 

Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal

We hiked the Reserva Mirador el Silencio Loop at the Arenal 1968 Park, the site of a 1968 eruption. It connects multiple trails through lush secondary forest, hardened lava fields and dense primary forest around a lagoon. At the end of the hike is a small restaurant with snacks and beverages. 

Arenal Hot Springs

The area around the Arenal Volcano has several hot springs and resorts. We visited the Ecotermales Hot Springs for a relaxing evening after our hike. The hot springs consist of several cascading thermal pools ranging in temperature from hottest at the top to coolest at the bottom. The upper pool has a steamy waterfall that feeds into lower pools. A second waterfall flows into the bottom pool with seats below it. The resort offers Costa Rican cuisine like rice and beans, yucca, fish in a coconut sauce and sweet plantains. Photo credit to Trip Advisor. 

Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park

The Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park is an eco park with 16 suspension bridges and nature trails weaving through the rain forest. The largest bridges are suspended over ravines and cut through the tree top canopy. The smallest bridges cross narrow streams and crevices. Massive trees, some hundreds of feet tall, line the trails alongside vibrant flowers and a small waterfall. The nature walk takes up to 3 hours at a leisurely pace while watching for wildlife and animals. The eco park has a restaurant overlooking the Arenal Volcano and verdant landscape. 

Pro Tips. Arrive at 8am before the large tour groups to experience the trails and bridges mostly on your own. We bought tickets online and ahead of time to secure the earlier time slot. Book here. 

Venado Caves 

The Venado Cave system is an underground network of dark chambers, flooded passageways and crystalline rock formations. Fitted with headlamps and helmets, a guide led us into its depths of its main chamber and sub chambers. Book with Ecoterra Costa Rica on Viator. 

The Main Chamber.  A river leads upstream into the mouth of the cave and its main chamber. The underground river continues deeper into the cave and its numerous sub chambers. 

The Raining Room.  A narrow passageway led through an 18 inch wide crevice to the “Raining Room.” Water dripped from the ceiling and down the chamber walls as if raining underground. We shimmied and climbed 10ft vertically back into the main chamber. 

The Waterfall Room. The main chamber led to an underground waterfall with a secondary chamber hidden behind it. The room beyond is covered in a tiered flow stone comprised of sparking and rippled layers of sediment. 

The Papaya Room.  A chamber accessible by ladder from the “Waterfall Room” with a several million year old flow stone that resembles the shape of a papaya.

The Flooded Tunnel.  The sub chambers continued deeper into the cave past stalactites and stalagmites to a “Flooded Tunnel,” only large enough to crawl through with our heads above the surface of the water. 

The Indiana Jones Room.  The “Flooded Tunnel” continued into a narrow crevice only wide enough to fit through sideways. It led to the “Indiana Jones Room,” a chamber with a rushing waterfall and round boulder suspended between two rocks. 

An Underground Ecosystem.  The cave is home to an underground ecosystem of cave dwelling creatures. Fruit and vampire bats hung from the ceilings and fluttered around its chambers. Large cave crickets, cockroaches and scorpion spiders lurk on cave walls. Catfish swim downriver and between chambers. 

Sloth’s Territory

Sloth’s Territory is a nature preserve and protected habitat where sloths freely roam. Led by a guide, we walked through the preserve’s trails spotting several sloths climbing trees, sleeping in the sun and eating leaves. We even spotted a baby sloth slowly climbing alongside its mother. In addition to sloths, we spotted toucans and tiny red and blue poison dart frogs. 

Sloth Spotting Tips.  Look for trees with large 5 pointed leaves that resemble stars. These trees are tall and thin with white and brown bark. Look for dark masses sitting on tree branches. They are often sloths curled up and sleeping. 

La Fortuna 

A small town at the base of the Arenal Volcano with restaurants, hotels and souvenir shops. We stayed here while exploring the nearby sights. 

Brisas Arenal Hotel.  An eco-hotel with individual wooden cottages, nearby nature trails and views of the Arenal Volcano. The main guest house has a restaurant that delivered us fruit bowls and coffee for breakfast and a fridge to buy beers from during the evening. Book here!

Snapper.  A seafood restaurant with a tasty menu. We ordered volcano margaritas (spicy margs), seared tuna, baby shrimp arepas, a whole fried snapper, coconut seafood stew and tres leches.

On The Road

After leaving La Fortuna, we began our drive to Manuel Antonio stopping at a scenic overlook for lunch, to see a crocodile infested river and for a sunset dinner on the beach. 

La Casita del Café.  A roadside restaurant perched on a cliff with panoramic views of the lush and rugged mountainous landscape. We shared two common Costa Rican dishes, Sopa Negra and Casado. 

Río Tarcoles.  A river on the route to Manuel Antonio known for its massive crocodiles. We parked at a souvenir stand and walked to the bridge overlooking the river. From here we saw dozens of 12ft long crocodile swimming and resting along the islands and banks of the river.

Jacó Beach.  A beach town with a lengthly palm lined beach with a dark sandy shore, surf schools and waterfront restaurants. We enjoyed a sunset dinner at a spot called Tiki Bar. Come for the fish tacos, shrimp skewers and tropical cocktails. 

Manuel Antonio National Park

Manuel Antonio National Park is a nature preserve known for its biodiversity, rainforest, beaches, coral reefs, sloths, iguanas, spider monkeys, howler monkeys and hermit crabs. We spent an entire day in the park from opening until close hiking through the trails, visiting the beaches and spotting wildlife.

Manuel Antonio Trails

Sendero Principal.  The park’s main trail. A 2.2km path that leads from the park entrance to Manuel Antonio Beach. Many guides spot sloths from here.

Sendero Perezoso (Sloth Trail).  A 1.2 km trail that leads into the rainforest alongside Sendero Principal. It’s a good place to spot 2 and 3 toed sloths.

Sendero Punta Catedral.  A 1.4km loop along the Tómbolo land bridge leading to the Punta Catedral Point lookout. We heard and spotted several howler monkeys here. 

Sendero Playas Gemelas (Gemelas Beach Trail).  A 1.6km trail off of Sendero Principal that leads to Gemelas Beach and the Escondido Beach lookout.

Sendero Mirador.  A 1.3km cliffside trail that leads to Escondido Beach. It is an extension of Sendero Playas Gemelas. We couldn’t finish the trail because the boardwalk was badly damaged. 

Manuel Antonio Beaches 

Espadilla Beach South.  A long bow shaped beach with a narrow shoreline in Manuel Antonio Park. It’s a continuation of the city beach. 

Manuel Antonio Beach.  The park’s main beach with a white sand shore hugging the tree line of the lush rainforest.

Playa Gemelas.  A small natural beach reachable by the Sendero Playas Gemelas. 

Hiring a Guide or Not? 

Hiring a naturalist guide guarantees you will spot a sloth in Manuel Antonio however, it’s not necessary. Guides will stay along the main road because it’s easier to spot sloths and other animals from. We opted out of hiring one and walked the Sloth Trail adjacent to the main road. It’s less traveled and equally as easy to spot sloths. We created a rag-tag group with other travelers on the trail and used our combined eyesight to spot sloths, monkeys, toucans, crabs and poison dart frogs. 

Pro Tip 1.  Guides can be hired at the entrance to the park for a negotiable fee depending on the length of hire.

Pro Tip 2.  If without a guide, do not trail too closely behind them. They can get aggressive if they hear you listening in or watching sights they point out.

Pro Tip 3.  If you don’t hire a guide, bring a good pair of binoculars view wildlife with.

Helpful Park Information 

Hours.  The park is open from 7am - 4pm daily (closed on Tuesday).

Tickets.  You need to book tickets online ahead of time. 

No Plastic or Food.  Single use plastic, alcohol or food is forbidden in the park, except at park restaurants.

Parking.  Arrive early and look for parking at the park entrance past all the scammers pretending to be park staff along the roadside. Parking should cost no more than 5,000 Colones. 

Espadilla Beach North

A lengthy beach extending outside of Manuel Antonio park with soft sandy shores and swimmable waters. There are nearby restaurants, beach bars, souvenir shops, surf schools and chair & umbrella rentals. Visit Aguas Azules for parasailing tours above Manuel Antonio’s deep blue bay, sandy coastline, rocky outcrops and lush jungle. 

El Santuario Canopy Adventure Tour

A semi-remote adventure park nearby Manuel Antonio. The course includes 10 zip-lines, 6 canopy bridges, 3 nature walks and 1 rappelling challenge through the forest. It includes Costa Rica’s longest zip-line at 4,300 ft. We got to ride a shorter one upside down. They offer two morning tours lasting about 4 hours each. Both include a fruit breakfast and lunch. Pictures cost $20 extra. Book here!

Manuel Antonio Finca 

A town located outside of the Manuel Antonio National Park on the Pacific Coast. It’s a jungly beach town with hotels, restaurants, bars and nearby adventure activities.

Places to Eat & Drink 

El Avión.  An open air restaurant with wooden furniture built around an abandoned US military cargo plane. We ordered the crispy fried whole red snapper. 

Contra Bar.  A bar within the cargo plane at El Avión. We ordered a round of drinks and enjoyed them in the cockpit.  

Café Milagro.  A cafe in a tropical garden with house roasted coffee and breakfast dishes like guava and cheese crepes, banana pancakes and fresh fruit.

Restaurante Buru Seaside Manuel Antonio.  Stop here for 2 for 1 happy hour cocktails from 3-6pm and sunset views after spending the day in Manuel Antonio park.

Meduza Restaurant.  A hotel restaurant with a limited menu. We ordered and shared the seafood rice with a bottle of Imperial, Costa Rica’s most popular beer. 

Where to Stay

We stayed at Mango Moon Villa, a boutique hotel located near Manuel Antonio National Park. The hotel has views overlooking the Pacific Ocean. We stargazed in the evening and watched toucans and monkeys move between trees during the day. It includes a restaurant and bar with breakfast and dinner service.

Costa Rican Cuisine 

When it comes to cuisine, Costa Rica is the land of tropical fruit, rice and beans. 

Tropical Fruits.  Tropical fruits are grown, sold and served across the country. Fresh papaya, watermelon, pineapple and banana are regularly served for breakfast alongside a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice.

Gallo Pinto.  A rice and bean mixture served with a slice of fried plantain, scrambled eggs, queso palmito (fried cheese) and tortilla. It’s a common breakfast dish. 

Sopa Negra.  A black bean soup with cilantro and a hard boiled egg. Typically served for lunch or dinner.

Casado.  The national dish, a plate with rice, beans, grilled veggies, pasta salad, fried fish (or any meat protein), tortilla and sweet plantain. It’s typically served for lunch or dinner.

Imperial.  Costa Rica’s national beer served almost everywhere. Order one at a bar or a bucket at the beach. 

Driving in Costa Rica

Driving in Costa Rica is very scenic and one of the best ways to explore the country. Curvy roads snake through valleys and along mountain ridges with steep sections and roadside lookouts. 

Visibility.  Rain and fog drastically reduce visibility the higher we drove in altitude. 

Road Conditions.  Main roads are well maintained while back roads are often unpaved or in need of repair. 

Rent a 4WD.  A 4 wheel drive is necessary to navigate the roads. 

Narrow Lanes.  Many roads outside of the cities are 2 lanes wide with the occasional 1 lane bridge. 

Traffic Jams.  Traffic within and into San José was congested. 

Refueling.  Gas station attendants pump gas for you. 

Speed Bumps.  There are speed bumps in towns often with vendors set up selling snacks, fruit and juice. 

Falling Fruit.  Don’t park under any fruit trees. Coconuts, papaya or other falling fruit can badly damage your car. This is often not covered by rental insurance.

For Next Time…

Costa Rica is one of the most incredible places we’ve had the pleasure to travel to. From its biodiversity to breathtaking landscapes, it’s a destination that has left us wanting to return and explore more. When we do, some locations at the top of our list are: 

Poás Volcano National Park.  The largest and most active volcano in Costa Rica with a gaseous crater, hot springs and hiking trails. 

Guanacaste.  A Province in the northwest of the country with surfing beaches, nature reserves, volcanoes, hot springs, waterfalls and wildlife.

Refugio Nacional Gandoca-Manzanillo.  A marine reserve on the Caribbean side of the country with white sand beaches, coral reefs, mangrove forests and wetlands.