Costa Rican Roadtrip

Nature & Biodiversity

Costa Rica is a lush and biodiverse country in Central America known for its tropical rainforests, active volcanos, nature reserves and exotic wildlife. We spent a week road tripping across the country, splitting our time equally between the Arenal Volcano in the mountains and Manuel Antonio Park on the Pacific coast.

San Jose, The Gateway to Costa Rica 

San Jose is the capital city and gateway to Costa Rica. Located in the center of the country, it’s an easy point to begin and end any roadtrip from. We flew in around midnight and spent the evening at the nearby Hotel Mango before beginning our roadtrip the following morning. Reserve a rental car with Sixt. 

Volcán Arenal 

The Arenal Volcano is known for its symmetrical cone shape, hardened lava fields, hiking trails and large lake. We drove here from San Jose and arrived by early afternoon then hiked for about 3 hours. 

Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal

We hiked the Reserva Mirador el Silencio Loop at the Arenal 1968 Park, the site of a 1968 eruption. It connects multiple trails through lush secondary forest, hardened lava fields and dense primary forest around a lagoon. At the end of the hike is small restaurant with snacks and beverages. 

Arenal Hot Springs

The area around the Arenal Volcano has several hot springs and resorts. We visited the Ecotermales Hot Springs for a relaxing evening after our hike. The hot springs consist of several cascading thermal pools ranging in temperature from hottest at the top to coolest at the bottom. The upper pool has a steamy waterfall that feeds into lower pools. A second waterfall flows into the bottom pool with seats below it. The resort offers Costa Rican cuisine like rice & beans, yucca, fish in a coconut sauce and sweet plantains. Photo credit to Trip Advisor. 

Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park

The Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park is an eco park with 16 suspension bridges and nature trails weaving through the rain forest. The largest bridges are suspended over ravines and cut through the tree top canopy. The smallest bridges cross narrow streams and crevices. Massive trees, some hundreds of feet tall, line the trails alongside vibrant flowers and a small waterfall. The nature walk takes up to 3 hours at a leisurely pace while watching for wildlife and animals. The eco park has a restaurant overlooking the Arenal Volcano and verdant landscape. 

Pro Tips. Arrive at 8am before the large tour groups to experience the trails and bridges mostly on your own. We tickets online and ahead of time to secure the earlier time slot. Book here. 

Venado Caves 

The Venado Cave system is an underground network of dark chambers, flooded passageways and crystalline rock formations. Fitted with headlamps and helmets, a guide led into its depths of its main chamber and sub chambers. Book with Ecoterra Costa Rica on Viator. 

The Main Chamber.  A river leads upstream into the mouth of the cave and its main chamber. The underground river continues deeper into the cave and its numbers sub chambers. 

The Raining Room.  A narrow passageway led through an 18 inch wide crevice to the “Raining Room.” Water dripped from the ceiling and down the chamber walls as if raining underground. We shimmied and climbed 10ft vertically back into the main chamber. 

The Waterfall Room. The main chamber led to an underground waterfall with a secondary chamber hidden behind it. The room beyond is covered in a tiered flow stone comprised of sparking and rippled layers of sediment. 

The Papaya Room.  A chamber accessible by ladder from the “Waterfall Room” with a several million year old flow stone that resembles the shape of a papaya.

The Flooded Tunnel.  The sub chambers continued deeper int the cave past stalactites and stalagmites to a “Flooded Tunnel,” only large enough to crawl through with our heads above the surface of the water. 

The Indiana Jones Room.  The “Flooded Tunnel” continued into a narrow crevice only wide enough to fit through sideways. It lead to the “Indiana Jones Room,” a chamber with a rushing waterfall and round boulder suspended between two rocks. 

An Underground Ecosystem.  The cave is home to an underground ecosystem of cave dwelling creatures. Fruit and vampire bats hang from the ceilings and fluttered around its chambers. Large cave crickets, cockroaches and scorpion spiders lurk on cave walls. Catfish swim downriver and between chambers. 

Sloth’s Territory

Sloth’s Territory is a nature preserve and protected habitat where sloths freely roam. Led by a guide, we walked through the preserve’s trails spotting several sloths climbing trees, sleeping in the sun and eating leaves. We even spotted a baby sloth slowly climbing along side its mother. In addition to sloths, we spotted toucans and tiny red and blue poison dart frogs. 

Sloth Spotting Tips.  Look for trees with large 5 pointed leaves that resemble stars. These trees are tall and thin with white and brown bark. Look for dark masses sitting on tree branches. They are often sloths curled up and sleeping. 

La Fortuna 

A small town at the base of the Arenal Volcano with restaurants, hotels and souvenir shops. We stayed here while exploring the nearby sights. 

Brisas Arenal Hotel.  An eco-hotel with individual wooden cottages, nearby nature trails and views of the Arenal Volcano. The main guest house has a restaurant that delivered us fruit bowls and coffee for breakfast and a fridge to buy beers from during the evening. Book here!

Snapper.  A seafood restaurant with a tasty menu. We ordered volcano margaritas (spicy margs), seared tuna, baby shrimp arepas, a whole fried snapper, coconut seafood stew and tres leches.

On The Road

After leaving La Fortuna, we began our drive to Manuel Antonio stopping at a scenic overlook for lunch, to see a crocodile infested river and for a sunset dinner on the beach. 

La Casita del Cafe.  A roadside restaurant perched on a cliff with panoramic views of the lush and rugged mountainous landscape. We shared two common Costa Rican dishes, Sopa Negra, and Casado. 

Rio Tarcoles.  A river on the route to Manuel Antonio known for its massive crocodiles. We parked at a souvenir stand and walked to the bridge overlooking the river. From here we saw dozens of 12ft long crocodile swimming and resting along the islands and banks of the river.

Jaco Beach.  A beach town with a lengthly palm lined beach with a dark sandy shore, surf schools and waterfront restaurants. We enjoyed a sunset dinner at a spot called Tiki Bar. Come for the fish tacos, shrimp skewers and tropical cocktails. 

Manuel Antonio National Park

Manuel Antonio National Park is a nature preserve known for its biodiversity, rainforest, beaches, coral reefs, sloths, iguanas, spider monkeys, howler monkeys and hermit crabs. We spent an entire day in the park from opening until close hiking through the trails, visiting the beaches and spotting wildlife.

Manuel Antonio Trails

Sendero Principal.  The park’s main trail. A 2.2km path that leads from the park entrance to Manuel Antonio Beach. Many guides spot sloths from here.

Sendero Perezoso (Sloth Trail).  A 1.2 km trail that leads into the rainforest alongside Sendero Principal. It’s a good place to spot 2 and 3 toed sloths.

Sendero Punta Catedral.  A 1.4km loop along the Tómbolo land bridge leading to the Punta Catedral Point lookout. We heard and spotted several howler monkey’s here. 

Sendero Playas Gemelas (Gemelas Beach Trail).  A 1.6km trail off of Sendero Principal that leads to Gemelas Beach and the Escondido Beach lookout.

Sendero Mirador.  A 1.3km cliffside trail that leads to Escondido Beach. It is an extension of Sendero Playas Gemelas. We couldn’t finish the trail because the boardwalk was badly damaged. 

Manuel Antonio Beaches 

Espadilla Beach South.  A long bow shaped beach with a narrow shoreline in Manuel Antonio Park. It’s a continuation of the city beach. 

Manuel Antonio Beach.  The park’s main beach with a white sand shore hugging the tree line of the lush rainforest.

Playa Gemelas.  A small natural beach reachable by the Sendero Playas Gemelas. 

Hiring a Guide or Not? 

Hiring a naturalist guide guarantees you will spot a sloth in Manuel Antonio however it’s not necessary. Guides will stay along the main road because it’s easier to spot sloths and other animals from. We opted out of hiring one and walked the Sloth Trail adjacent to the main road. It’s less traveled and equally as easy to spot sloths. We created a rag-tag group with other travelers on the trail and used our combined eye sight to spot sloths, monkeys, toucans, crabs and poison dart frogs. 

Pro Tip 1.  Guides can be hired at the entrance to the park for a negotiable fee depending on the length of hire.

Pro Tip 2.  If without a guide, do not trail too closely behind them. They can get aggressive if they hear you listening in or watching sights they point out.

Pro Tip 3.  If you don’t hire a guide, being a good pair of binoculars view wildlife with.

Helpful Park Information 

Hours.  The park is open from 7am - 4pm daily (closed on Tuesday)

Tickets.  You need to book tickets online ahead of time. 

No Plastic or Food.  Single use plastic, alcohol or food is forbidden in the park, except at park restaurants.

Parking.  Arrive early and look for parking at the park entrance past all the scammers pretending to be park staff along the roadside. Parking should cost no more than 5,000 Colones. 

Espadilla Beach North

A lengthy beach extending outside of Manuel Antonio park with soft sandy shores and swimmable waters. There are nearby restaurants, beach bars, souvenir shops, surf schools and chair & umbrella rentals. Visit Aguas Azules for parasailing tours above Manuel Antonio’s deep blue bay, sandy coastline, rocky outcrops and lush jungle. 

El Santuario Canopy Adventure Tour

A semi-remote adventure park nearby Manuel Antonio. The course includes 10 zip-lines, 6 canopy bridges, 3 nature walks and 1 repelling challenge through the forest. It includes Costa Rica’s longest zip-line at 4,300 ft. We got to ride a shorter one upside down. They offer two morning tours lasting about 4 hours each. Both include a fruit breakfast and lunch. Pictures cost $20 extra. Book here!

Manuel Antonio Finca 

A town located outside of the Manuel Antonio National Park on the Pacific Coast. It’s a jungly beach town with hotels, restaurants, bars and nearby adventure activities.

Places to Eat & Drink 

El Avión.  An open air restaurant with wooden furniture built around an abandoned US military cargo plane. We ordered the crispy fried whole red snapper. 

Contra Bar.  A bar within the cargo plane at El Avión. We ordered a round of drinks and enjoyed them in the cockpit.  

Cafe Milagro.  A cafe in a tropical garden with house roasted coffee and breakfast dishes like guava and cheese crepes, banana pancakes and fresh fruit.

Restaurante Buru Seaside Manuel Antonio.  Stop here for 2 for 1 happy hour cocktails from 3-6pm and sunset views after spending the day in Manuel Antonio park.

Meduza Restaurant.  A hotel restaurant with a limited menu. We ordered and shared the seafood rice with a bottle of Imperial, Costa Rica’s most popular beer. 

Where to Stay

We stayed at Mango Moon Villa, A boutique hotel located nearby Manuel Antonio National Park. The hotel has views overlooking the Pacific Ocean. We stargazed in the evening and watched toucans and monkeys move between trees during the day. It includes restaurant and bar with breakfast and dinner service.

Costa Rican Cuisine 

When it comes to cuisine, Costa Rica is the land of tropical fruit, rice and beans. 

Tropical Fruits.  Tropical fruits are grown, sold and served across the country. Fresh papaya, watermelon, pineapple and banana are regularly served for breakfast alongside a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice.

Gallo Pinto.  A rice and bean mixture served with a slice of fried plantain, scrambled eggs, queso palmito (fried cheese) and tortilla. It’s a common breakfast dish. 

Sopa Negra.  A black bean soup with cilantro and a hard boiled egg. Typically served for lunch or dinner.

Casado.  The national dish, a plate with rice, beans, grilled veggies, pasta salad, fried fish (or any meat protein), tortilla and sweet plantain. It’s typically served for lunch or dinner.

Imperial.  Costa Rica’s national beer served almost everywhere. Order one at a bar or a bucket at the beach. 

Driving in Costa Rica

Driving in Costa Rica is very scenic and one of the best ways to explore the country. Curvy roads snake through valleys and along mountain ridges with steep sections and roadside lookouts. 

• Visibility.  Rain and fog drastically reduces visibility the higher we drove in altitude. 

• Road Conditions.  Main roads are well maintained while back roads were often unpaved or in need of repair. 

• Rent a 4WD.  A 4 wheel drive is necessary to navigate the roads. 

• Narrow Lanes.  Many roads outside of the cities are 2 lanes wide with the occasional 1 lane bridge. 

• Traffic Jams.  Traffic within and into the San Jose was congested. 

• Refueling.  Gas stations attendants pump gas for you. 

• Speed Bumps.  There are speed bumps in towns often with vendors set up selling snacks, fruit and juice. 

• Falling Fruit.  Don’t park under any fruit trees. Coconuts, papaya or other falling fruit can badly damage your car. This is often not covered by rental insurance.

For Next Time…

Costa Rica is one of the most incredible places we’ve had the pleasure to traveling to. From its bio diversity to breathtaking landscapes, it’s a destination that has left us wanting to return and explore more. When we do, some locations at the top of our list are: 

Poás Volcano National Park.  The largest and most active volcano in Costa Rica with a gaseous crater, hot springs and hiking trails. 

Guanacaste.  A Provence in the northwest of the country with surfing beaches, nature reserves, volcanoes, hot springs, waterfall and wildlife 

Refugio Nacional Gandoca-Manzanillo.  A marine reserve on the Caribbean side of the country with white sand beaches, coral reefs, mangrove forests and wetlands. 

Caribbean Curaçao

The Dutch Caribbean 

Curaçao is a Dutch Caribbean Island with vibrantly painted buildings, musical nightlife, aquamarine shorelines, rugged seaside cliffs and dry forests home to many species of cacti, lizards & tropical birds. 

Willemstad 

Willemstad, the picturesque capital of Curaçao, is renowned for its colorful Dutch style architecture and vibrant charm. Its central neighborhoods, Punda, Otrobanda and Pietermaai define the city’s character, offering a mix of local culture, historic landmarks, markets, artificial beaches and boutique stays. Live music echos from restaurants and bars, creating an inviting atmosphere for both lively outings and relaxed evenings on outdoor patios.

Punda Neighborhood 

Punda is the historic center of Willemstad. It’s a mostly pedestrian neighborhood popular for its colorful colonial architecture, historic sights, local markets, souvenir shops, brand name stores, cocktail bars and restaurants with outdoor dining. 

Handelsakade.  An iconic waterfront skyline comprised of Dutch colonial buildings painted in vibrant colors with minimal ornamentation and steep tiled roofs. Shops, restaurants and bars line the street level. Visit the Iguana Cafe for a glass of wine at sunset!

Queen Emma Pontoon Bridge.  A swinging wooden pedestrian bridge that connects both sides of the St. Anna Bay. It opens several times daily to let ships pass in and out of the harbor. It’s lit up in a colorful arches reminiscent of an amusement park boardwalk at night. 

Queen Wilhelmina Park.  A plaza with public artwork, photo moments, landmark buildings and touristy restaurants serving island food and tropical cocktails. 

Punda Vibes.  A bustling festival held in Queen Wilhelmina Park with local artists, live music, street performers and a firework show. It’s held every Thursday from 6-10pm. 

De Buren.  A touristy restaurant in Queen Wilhelmina Park offering Dutch snacks like fried fish kibbling and smoked gouda bitterballen. Order a blue lagoon made from the island’s famed rum, Blue Curaçao.

Punda Markets.  Punda is home to multiple markets offering local cuisine, fresh produce and souvenirs. 

• Plasa Bieu Market.  A food hall with several kitchens preparing traditional Curaçaoan dishes and meals. By lunchtime, the market’s colorful picnic tables are packed with locals and travelers looking for an authentic and affordable meal. The savory smells of dishes like okra soup, iguana stew, roasted goat, fried mahi mahi and sweet plantains waft through the air.   

• Floating Market.  A waterfront market as colorful as the city’s buildings with merchants selling fresh seafood and tropical produce. Vendors historically dock along the pier and unload their goods including red snapper, pineapple, papaya, plantain, watermelon, banana, oranges, coconut, limes, hot peppers and more. 

• The New Market.  A circular concrete pavilion with tables of vendors selling produce, spices, herbal remedies, souvenirs and clothes. 

Otrobanda Neighborhood 

Otrobanda is a historic neighborhood and Arts District with colorful buildings, large murals, alleyway exhibits, painted stairs and historical markers. It feels more local with less tourists than other areas in Willemstad while offering some of the best views of Handelsakade from the St Anna Bay.

Rif Fort.  A former colonial fort guarding the entrance to the harbor made from coral brick and stone walls. It’s been converted into a mall with boardwalks, seaside overlooks and a central courtyard with restaurants and shops. 

Curaçao Rif Mangrove Park.  A protected mangrove forest in the center of Willemstad with a floating boardwalk, a lookout tower, educational signs and kayak rentals. The park is teeming with biodiversity. We spotted eels, puffer fish, barracuda, hermit crabs, upside-down jellyfish, yellow headed parquets, butterflies and varying species of fish and birds. 

Places to Eat & Drink

• Swinging Old Lady.  A brewery overlooking the harbor and skyline with a mix of local and imported beers. We shared a flight while watching the Queen Emma Pontoon Bridge open and close for passing ships. Try the Waka Waka, an IPA made with Curaçao orange peels. 

• Harbor Restaurant Curaçao.  A hotel restaurant with views of the St Anna Bay and Handelsakade. Come here for classic breakfast dishes like omelettes, fresh fruit & Poffertjes (mini Dutch pancakes). 

• Maria’s Kitchen.  A breakfast and brunch spot offering baked goofs, egg dishes and fresh juices. It’s located inside of a converted colonial home. 

Kurá Hulanda Village 

Kurá Hulanda is a semi-hidden village with in the Otrobanda neighborhood. Its cobble stone alleyways and plazas are surrounded by restored colonial buildings with colorful facades, tropical greenery, vibrant murals and Afro Caribbean statues. It’s home to locals, expats, boutique shops, hotels and restaurants. Musicians perform in outdoor patios under the soft glow of twinkle lights each night, creating a relaxing and romantic atmosphere. 

Saturday Morning Market.  Local vendors set up booths in the village’s plazas and alleyways selling crafts, handmade items, souvenirs and edible goods each Saturday morning. We bought scotch bonnet pepper chili oil and freshly made stroopwafels.

Kurá Hulanda Museum.  A history museum with exhibits about the brutality of transatlantic slave trade and the enslaved people brought to Curaçao from Western Africa. It’s an extremely well organized museum with multiple exhibits on pre-colonial African cultures, the atrocities and horrific accounts of slavery, the abolitionist and equal rights movements in the US. Exhibits include African artifacts, iron shackles, nautical maps, newspaper clippings, bills of sale from slave auctions. It’s a very sobering museum and one that can’t be overlooked. You need a minimum of 1 hour to fully explore the museum and learn about the history.

Lionfish Caribbean.  A restaurant serving dishes made from invasive lion fish, like ceviche, fish & chips and tacos. The fish and chips is served with portions of the spines and fins still attached. Uncooked spines and fins are used to create jewelry. It’s only open for lunch. 

Rustica.  An open air restaurant with delicious cocktails, fresh coconuts and a menu of dishes local to Curaçao. We shared a spread of dishes including: 

• Baklou.  A dish made from stewed cod, polenta and sweet plantain 

• Banana.  A mash of boiled green and sweet plantain mixed with chimichuri, coconut milk and okra 

• Pampuna.  A pumpkin and rum raisin pancake with frozen ponche de creme  

• Mosa Nena.  A cocktail made from rum, local tamarind and star anise

• Krioyo Ku Orguyo. A cocktail made oregano punch with kiwi, elderflower and basil

Flores.  A restaurant with a large romantic outdoor patio. They have music until 10pm and stay open even later. Stop in for a night cap after a day of beaching and exploring the island.  

Pietermaai Neighborhood 

A neighborhood east of Punda with Dutch style row houses, vibrantly painted buildings, small shops, boutique hotels, small beachfront resorts, cafes, restaurants and bars. Come here during the evenings, especially from Thursday to Saturday for the night life and live music.

Nieuwestraat.  A street known for nightlife with live music and several restaurants and bars that seamlessly spill out onto the street. This was a favorite area to go out! 

Places to Eat & Drink 

• Mundo Bizarro.  A bustling two floor cocktail bar with a live brass band. On Thursday nights, locals and tourists fill the bar and its ally as the band and bartenders fuel the ambiance. On Saturday night, the scene is tamer with experienced salsa dancers taking to the floor and showing off their moves.

• Tiki Loco.  A cocktail bar located along a lively section of Nieuwestraat serving tropical drinks and island bites. Tiki torches and live music provide an ambient setting in the outdoor patio.

• Blues Bar Restaurant.  An ocean view restaurant at Avila Beach Hotel serving Caribbean cuisine. Try the tropical tuna tartare with avocado and mango, the whole fried red snapper, conch burger, funchi fries and piña colada ice cream. 

• Van Gogh Specialty Coffee & City Roastery.  A coffee shop in a blue painted dutch colonial house. Order the pumpkin pastechi,a pastry similar to baked empanada, oregano kombucha and house roasted coffee.

Westpunt 

Westpunt is the northwestern area of Curaçao. It’s defined by its nature including limestone cliffs, white sand beaches, turquoise waters, snorkeling spots & hiking trails.

Christoffel Mountain Trail.  A hike to the summit of Christoffel Mountain, the tallest natural point on Curaçao, standing at 1,220ft above sea level. The trail leads through dry forest past all manner of prickly and spiky bushes and cacti. Watch for wildlife like whiptail blue lizards, green parquets, orange breasted Venezuelan troupials and yellow orioles. The summit views are spectacular with sweeping views of the island’s dry forest and turquoise coastline. 

Pro Tip.  Wear proper hiking shoes. Sections of the trail are steep and eroded with jagged rocks and loose gravel. 

Good to Know.  Due to extreme heat, the trail is only accessible before 10am. Purchase tickets from the visitor center before 7am. It takes an hour to reach the summit and another hour to descend. 

Shete Boka National Park.  A coastal park where large waves crash into limestone cliffs, bays and caves. A series of nature trails leads through the park.

• Boka Tabla.  A half submerged coastal cave where you can watch waves crash from both an observation deck above and within the cave itself.

• Boka Kalki.  A limestone cliff and inlet where powerful waves crash dramatically, sending sprays of water through small blowholes along its eastern side.

• Boka Pistol.  A horseshoe shaped cliff that forcefully blasts seawater back into the ocean as large waves crash against it. A nature trail leads here from Boka Kalki. 

Hato Caves.  A limestone cave with stalactites, stalagmites and 1,500 year old petroglyphs carved by indigenous peoples. The caves were used as a hideaway by enslaved people that escaped the plantations. A nature trail continues outside of the cave, passing cacti, coral cliffs and small caves with petroglyphs.

Good to Know.  The cave can only be toured with a guide. Tours leave on the hour when operating. It’s located near the airport making it easy to visit before flying out. 

Salt Lake Willibrodus.  A salt lake home to wild flamingos with a roadside observation deck. We spotted a small group over 100ft away and watch another group fly off in the distance. 

Pro Tip.  Bring binoculars or a long range lens for better views of the birds. 

Curaçao Beaches 

Most beaches are located along the south shore of Curaçao, nestled between limestone cliffs or at resorts. We visited several in Westpunt and around Willemstad. 

Playa Forti.  A cliffside beach famed for cliff jumping! The restaurant on the cliff overlooking the beach is the best location to jump. Depending on the tide, the distance is 40-45ft above the water. 

Pro Tip. To minimize the risk of injury, position yourself perfectly vertical like pencil before hitting the water!

Playa Kalki.  A narrow beach on the island’s far north shore with calm aquamarine waters ideal for swimming. Floating platforms and rentable lounges offer places to relax. There is a restaurant, bar and dive shop on the beach and small resort on the cliff above it. 

Playa Grandi.  A popular beach to snorkel with sea turtles attracted by local fishermen’s chum. Visit before 8am when it’s least busy and the water is clear. Choose a different beach to swim and lounge at. 

Grote Knip.  A popular white sand beach with clear turquoise waters perfect for swimming, snorkeling and cliff jumping from a 20 foot ledge. Vendors rent umbrellas, lounges and snorkel gear. The southern cliff is the best place to spot marine life like parrotfish, pufferfish and barracuda. Food truck vendors sell local fritters and smoothies in the parking lot.

Kleine Knip.  A quiet and smaller golden sand beach popular with locals. It’s located less than 5 minutes south of Grote Knip.

Mambo Beach.  A large artificial beach with turquoise waters, white sand shores, palm trees, chair and umbrella rentals and a multi level board walk with restaurants, bars, resorts, shops and clubs. We spent an afternoon here lounging on the beach and drinking cocktails from two of the beachfront bars, Chill Beach Bar & Grill and Hemingway. It’s located 10 minutes south of Willemstad. 

Blauwbaai (Blue Bay Beach).  An artificial beach at the Blue Bay Resort with a palm lined shore and high end beachfront restaurant, Brass Boer. There is a fee to access to beach and use its amenities. It’s located 20 minutes north of Willemstad. 

Beach Restaurants 

Jaanchie Restaurant.  A long running restaurant near Playa Grandi with traditional stewed meats like iguana, goat, beef, fish and shrimp. Stews are served with rice & beans and fried plantains. Order the oregano punch!

Restaurant Playa Forti.  A restaurant built on the site of an old Dutch fort overlooking Playa Forti. Try the grilled conch, fried plantains and veggie Keshi Yena, a local dish made with vegetables covered in a layer of cheese.

Brass Boer.  A high end restaurant at the Blue Bay Beach Resort offering a 6 course tasting menu and wine parings. Our menu included a range of vegetarian and pescatarian dishes with Dutch, Caribbean and Japanese influences. Two of our favorites were the filet of red snapper with pickled veggies and the roasted cabbage with a creamy orange sauce and crumbled pistachio. Come hungry and expect the meal to last longer than 3 hours. 

Curaçao Cuisine 

• Stews.  Iguana, goat, beef, fish and okra stews are common local dishes.

• Seafood.  Conch, fried red snapper, mahi mahi and garlic shrimp are all popular.

• Pastechi.  A stuffed savory pastry similar to an Empanada made from flaky dough.

• Funchi.  Fried corn dough similar to polenta. It’s often served like French fries.

• Plantains.  A type of savory green banana served on its own or as an ingredient cooked into other dishes. 

• Keshi Yena.  A dish made with a base of protein and covered in a layer of cheese. 

• Poffertjes.  Dutch style mini pancakes often served with fruit at breakfast, 

• Bitterballen.  Deep fried cheese balls. It’s a common Dutch pub dish or street food served on some menus. 

• Kibbling.  Deep fried pieces of fish. It’s a common Dutch pub dish or street food served on some menus. 

• Oregano Juice.  A herbal juice made with pressed oregano leaves. It’s herbal, semi-sweet and refreshing.

• Brasa.  A local beer with a similar taste to Corona but slightly citric. 

• Blue Lagoon.  A classic cocktail made with Blue Curacao, vodka and lemonade. 

Where to Stay

Kurá Hulanda Townhouse.  A one bedroom apartment in the middle of the Kurá Hulanda Village. We stayed here for 4 nights while exploring Willemstad and elsewhere across the island. Book on Airbnb.

Location Specifics

Language.  Most people speak English however Dutch and Papiamento (a creole language based on Spanish and Portuguese) are most commonly spoken. 

Cash vs Card.  Most places accept credit cards but having some cash is important. The Antillean Guilder & the US Dollar are both used on the island.

Getting Around: Willemstad is easily walkable while the best way to get around the island is by car. 

Water Shoes.  Wear water shoes at all beaches to avoid discomfort from jagged washed up coral.

Sun Protection.  Curaçao is a desert island in the tropics! Wear sunblock to avoid the harmful UV. 

For Next Time… 

Curaçao is part of the ABC island chain, including Aruba and Bonaire. We plan to visit the later to explore their beaches, marine parks and Dutch colonial buildings. 

Cartagena, Colombia

The Gem of the Caribbean

Cartagena is a romantic destination, often referred to as “The Gem of the Caribbean” for its seaside location, walled city and colonial architecture. The city exudes Colombian culture, history and cuisine. Start each day with a Colombian coffee, spend time wandering the streets of colorful colonial architecture, enjoy leisurely strolls along the wall at sunset, take a beach getaway to an offshore island, eat street food in the plazas and dine to live music.

The Walled City 

The old town of Cartagena is surrounded by a thick stone and coral brick wall designed to protect the city from pirates and attacks during the colonial era. It is lined with guard towers, lookouts and cannons. From inside, there are numerous ramps and staircases with access to the wall’s upper level and walkways. Along the walkways are city and sea views. Couples often come here to hideaway in the nooks, walk hand in hand and watch the sunset. 

Explore the Barrios 

Cartagena is organized by picturesque barrios with vibrant plazas, colonial buildings, cathedrals, colorfully painted homes and lush streets. 

El Centro.  The neighborhood at the center of the Walled City with many historic sights, large plazas, restaurants and hotels. The buildings here are painted golden orange or white with exposed coral bricks, wooden balconies and window banisters. 

San Diego.  The most vibrant neighborhood within the Walled City with colorfully painted buildings, lush flowering vines, streets draped in floral canopies, doors adorned with elaborate knockers and lively plazas. 

Getsemani.  An artists neighborhood with murals, graffiti, galleries, colorful architecture and streets draped with banderas and umbrellas. There are many cafes, restaurants, bars, hostels and boutique hotels here.

Bocagrande.  A beachside neighborhood with tall skyscrapers, hotels and residential towers. Locals jokingly refer to it as Miami. Its home to Cartagena’s most popular and convenient beach, Playa Boca Grande. 

See the Sights 

Catedral Santa Catalina de Alejandria.  An iconic yellow and peach painted cathedral recognizable by its ornate neoclassical spire. Its located in the heart of El Centro, visible from the streets, rooftops and walls surrounding the colonial old town.

Plaza Santa Domingo.  A large plaza in El Centro with outdoor dining, street vendors selling jewelry, musicians performing, colonial architecture, the Iglesia de San Pedro Claver and a Botero sculpture of a laying naked woman. 

Iglesia de San Pedro Claver.  A church with a coral brick and stone facade built in the early 1,600s. It contains an archeological museum with the tomb of the saint, pre-Columbian, religious, African and Caribbean artifacts.

Plaza de San Diego.  A small but very lively plaza located in San Diego. It’s surrounded by restaurants that spill into the street, artists, musicians, performers and street food vendors. The plaza is recognizable by the church that resembles a large ginger bread house.

Heredia Theatre.  A colonial era theater made from pink stone and accented with yellow painted ornamentation. 

Puerta del Reloj.  The yellow clock tower and gate along the wall marking the entrance to the old town. The adjacent plaza is lined with vendors selling books, fresh juice, candy and offering tours. 

Plaza de la Aduana.  A large plaza inside the walled city accessible through the Puerta del Reloj. Its a popular place to buy fresh fruit juice and take a photo with a Palenqueras, women wearing colorful dresses and tropical fruit bowls on their head.

Centenario Park.  A park located outside the old town across from the Puerta del Reloj. Come here to spot wildlife including sloths, monkeys and parrots living in the trees. 

Pier Los Pegasos.  Located just outside the Puerto del Reloj are two Pegasus statues along the water front pier. Many boat tours to the coastal islands depart from and return here.

Plaza de Bolívar.  A lush tree covered plaza in the center of the walled city with a bronze statue of Simon Bolívar. Artists frequently sell paintings and crafts here. 

Plaza Fernandes de Madrid.  A lush plaza located between El Centro and San Diego in the walled city. It’s sounded by colorful colonial architecture, restaurants, bars and artists.

Las Bóvedas.  A series of shops built into a yellow arched section of the old town’s wall formerly used as prison cells. The vendors sell various souvenirs including baskets, hammocks, artwork, coffee, jewelry and cigars.

Calle de San Juan.  A street in Getsemani with murals and galleries selling colorful paintings depicting the walled city, Botero style artwork, portraits of Colombian women and tropical Caribbean scenes.

Plaza de la Trinidad.  A small plaza located in Getsemani surrounded by restaurants and centered on a large golden yellow church.

Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas.  A military super fortress built during the 1600’s with maze-like tunnels, barracks, cannons, chambers and lookouts over the sea and city. The tunnels cut through different sections of the fortress and descend deep into its interior. 

Museo Naval Del Caribe.  A Caribbean and Colombian naval history museum with exhibits ranging from colonial to modern day. There are Spanish cannons, naval outfits, nautical maps, model fortresses and replica ships on display. The exhibits include interactive features like a pirate ship, submarine, battleship, speed boat and helicopter.

Museo del Oro Zenu.  A small but very well curated museum with pre-Colombia artifacts including hundreds of gold pieces, musical instruments, statuettes and pottery. The artifacts and exhibits focus on the indigenous Zenu people and their connection to the land, sea, sky and animals that inhabit them. It’s free to enter.

Las Playas 

City vs Island Beaches.  Island beaches are located off the coast of Cartagena and are often much cleaner, prettier with less aggressive vendors than the city beaches. Boats depart from Playa Boca Grande and Pier Los Pegasos between 8-11am to ferry passengers to the idyllic Rosario Islands.

Rosario Islands National Park.  An archipelago of over 30 tiny islands reachable by boat 1 hour from Cartagena. Many small hotels and resorts are located here, a convenance for overnight guests. 

Isla Grande.  A large island in the Rosario Islands National Parkwith hotels, beaches and snorkeling spots.

Bora Bora Beach Club.  A beach club on Isla Grande with a small beach, beach beds, massages, cocktails and lunch including crab and whole grilled fish. It’s a relaxing way to enjoy the Caribbean outside of the city. 

Colombian Cuisine 

Colombian Caribbean Dishes.  Popular dishes made with Colombia and Caribbean ingredients include fried fish, ceviche, coconut rice and patacones. 

• Fried Fish.  Served whole or filleted but fried to perfection. Red Snapper and Sea Bass are commonly served

• Colombian Ceviche. Raw seafood cooked in citrus often with coconut milk, red onion and avocado then served with plantain chips. 

• Coconut Rice.  White or brown rice cooked with coconut milk. It’s a local side to any entree.

• Patacones.  Fried green plantain that’s been flatten and re-fried.

Street Food.  Vendors can be found in plazas and along streets preparing and selling various types of street food across Cartagena for extremely affordable prices. 

• Arepa de Huevo.  A masa arepa that’s been cooked, cut open, an egg cracked inside and re-fried. Watch for vendors with pots of oil sitting atop a coal burning stove. Dora’s located in Plaza San Diego is the place to go. 

• Pan de Bono.  Watch for vendors with glass cabinets on carts filled with cheese filled breads and rolls. 

• Fresh Juice.  Watch for vendors with citrus carts serving ladles of orange and lime juice from iced filled tanks.

• Fresh Fruit.  Watch for vendors with wooden carts selling colorful cups of sliced pineapple, mango, water melon, papaya and whole coconuts. 

Cook like a Colombian 

Take a cooking class and learn how to cook like a Colombian. The Life of Good Hostel in Getsemani offers classes on their roof top kitchen. Instructed by Chef Omar, we prepared multiple Colombian dishes to the tune of his Shakira playlist. Together, we sliced green plantains to make patacones, milled corn to make stuffed arepas, diced veggies to make hogao (sofrito) and sautéed shrimp in a garlic wine sauce.

Places to Eat & Drink

Cafe Del Mar.  One of two restaurants located on the wall with live music, city views and sunset overlooking the Caribbean. Come for the ceviche, causas, cocktails. 

Baluarte de San Francisco Javier.  The second of two restaurants located on the wall with live music, city views and sunset overlooking the Caribbean. Come for the Caribbean tapas and cocktails. 

Celele.  A contemporary Colombian restaurant located in a restored blue colonial home. The menu specializes in creative dishes that involve fermented ingredients, edible flowers and local seafood. Try the crab arepa, Caribbean flower salad, corn bun and squid with plantain dumplings in mussel sauce. 

Lobo de Mar.  A Colombian tapas restaurant built between two coral brick walls in a warmly lit space. Try Try the flames cheese arepa salad and seared sesame tuna on pumpkin puree.

Juan del Mar.  A higher end restaurant with an open air interior in Plaza San Diego serving elevated Colombian dishes. Visit on during a weekend for live music. 

Townhouse Rooftop.  A hotel rooftop in the middle of the old town with views of the clay tiled roofs and spires. Stop by for a cocktail at sunset.

Amasa Café.  A cafe with Colombian coffee, pastries, churro French toast, arepas and egg dishes.

Al Alma.  A breakfast or brunch spot with egg dishes, pancakes and French toast. Try the sweet corn waffles and arepa with an egg.

Coffee at Libertario.  A coffee shop in Getsemani with well brewed Colombian coffee. Walk up and take a seat at the street front counter. 

Pan de Queso.  A small bakery in El Centro with pastries and pan de bono.

Percimon.  A paletas shop with fruit and chocolate favors and specialty toppings in Plaza San Diego. Sit on their second floor balcony overlooking the plaza. 

Location Specifics 

Language.  Spanish is widely spoken. Knowing a little Spanish goes a long way. 

Safety.  Cartagena is extremely safe. Take normal precautions. 

Alcohol.  There are no alcohol sales during elections. This is strictly enforced. 

Drugs.  People will frequently try to sell you cocaine on the street. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit card is widely accepted however carrying cash is important for purchasing street food, providing tips and small purchases. 

Tipping.  10% tipping is normal.

Getting Around

By Uber.  Ubers are available and cost around 30,000 COL between the Walled City and the airport. 

On Foot.  The walled city is extremely walkable and by far the best way to explore the city’s historic streets and wall. 

Horse Drawn Carriage.  See the walled city by horse and carriage on a romantic tour. Carriage drivers are widely available during the late afternoon through evening. Prices are fixed by the length of time. Most horses were healthy and well taken care of when we visited. 

For Next Time… 

Having visited Cartagena twice in the past few years, we’re certain to return to this charming and romantic city! For next time, we plan to island hop across the Rosario Islands. Elsewhere in Colombia, we’re have our sights on visiting Medellín and Cali. 

Tallinn, Estonia

Tallinn, A Medieval Capital 

Tallinn is a medieval city and the modern day capital of Estonia abundant in cultural sights, historic architecture, Baltic restaurants, cocktail bars and local artisans. 

The Old Town of Vanalinn

Surrounded by a stone wall with defensive towers and a former mote, The Old Town of Vanalinn boasts some of the most impressive medieval architecture in Europe. Within its historic walls reside former guilds, ornate buildings, towering spires and narrow passageways. By day, we climbed stone defensive towers, tried on knightly armor and learned about Estonia’s past and recent history. At night, we indulged in Estonian cuisine, discovered hidden bars and slept in a former merchant house. 

Blanketed in Snow

In mid-January, the city of Tallinn was blanketed in snow. It’s a cold and cozy time when locals sport fur hats, parents pull children on sleds, street vendors sell hot mulled wine & twinkle lights decorate the streets. It felt a lot like being in a snow globe. A feeling we fully embraced by having a snowball fight in the town square, ice skating at night and catching snowflakes on our tongues. 

Climb the Medieval Towers 

Walking along the city wall, we visited several medieval towers, admiring some from the outside and ascending to the lookouts of others. 

Viru Gate.  A pair or stone defensive towers at one entrance to of the walled city. 

Sauna, Nun’s & Golden Leg Towers.  The oldest section of the city wall with 3 towers connected by a stone and wood defensive wall. Each tower has stone spiral staircases that lead to different levels, each with windows overlooking the city.

Hellemann Tower & Wall.  A 3 floor artillery tower with a clay tile roof. A spiral staircase leads to a 200 meter long defensive wall and platform with city views.

Monks Tower.  A tower accessible from the Hellmann Tower & Wall. It has a gallery of historic city photos and a cafe on its ground floor.

Epping Tower.  A 6 floor defensive tower and medieval museum. Each floor has an exhibit with weapons like swords, crossbows and a catapult. Come to try on armor, chain mail and helmets. 

The Towers Square.  A plaza and garden outside the old town’s wall with views of several defensive towers.

Bremen Tower.  A 4 floor defensive and prison tower. It’s inaccessible but there is a passageway below it into and out of the walled city. 

Tall Hermann.  A 45 meter tall defensive tower at Toompea Castle.

See the Sights of Vanalinn 

Many of the sights within in Vanalinn are in close proximity to each other, making it easy to explore the city. 

Tallinn Town Hall Square.  A plaza at the medieval center of Tallinn surrounded by historic architecture, most notably the town hall recognizable by its towering spire. 

Toompea Hill.  The tallest natural area of Tallinn’s old town with historic sights and city views.

Patkuli&Kohtuotsa.  Two lookouts on Toompea Hill with the best views of Vanalinn, greater Tallinn and the ports.

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral.  An intricately decorated Russian orthodox cathedral on Toompea Hill with red brick, plaster ornamentation, onion domes and bell towers.

Toompea Castle.  A medieval stone castle on Toompea Hill with a pink and white neo-classical facade. It houses Estonia’s Parliament.

St Olaf’s Church.  The tallest medieval building in the old town with a 124 meter steeple. During the summer months, it’s accessible with an observation deck at its base. 

Catherine's Alley.  A medieval alley with tiled arches and a gallery of merchant tombstones dating back to the 12th century displayed on the wall. 

Danish King’s Garden.  A garden and plaza with a view of Vanalinn. It’s popular for bronze statues of 3 ominous and haunted looking monks. 

Old Town Ice Rink.  An outdoor ice rink open during the winter months with skate rentals and a cafe.

Visit the Museums

Tallinn is home to so much history and many museums. We made time to visit them and learn about the city’s history, medieval past and merchant guilds. 

Kiek in de Kök Fortification Museum.  A museum with tunnels, exhibits and multiple stone towers connected by a defensive wall with views overlooking Vanalinn. The tunnels contain artifacts and exhibits explaining their importance  throughout history from medieval times through Soviet and German occupation and independence. The towers have exhibits dedicated to their previous uses, from defending the city, to art studios and cafes.  

St. Nicholas' Church and NigulisteMuseum.  A church and museum with medieval and religious artifacts like bronze bells, tomb stones, coats of arms, silver collections and the only surviving painting depicting “The Dance of Death”. The restored spire accessible by spiral stair case and glass elevators leads to an observation deck with views of Tallinn. 

Estonian History Museum (Great Guild Hall).  A history museum located in a medieval hall with a tall vaulted ceilings and a stone arched basement. Exhibits portrays the history of Estonia, its merchants and guilds, fortifications, religious reformation, former occupation and independence. The museum houses Estonian artifacts including paintings, swords, guns, canons, armor, chests, barrels, ceramics, silver dishes and coins. 

Places to Shop

From food markets to medieval shops, Tallinn’s merchant past is equally as present today. We visited a few spots and even brought home some souvenirs. 

Easti Esindus Tallinnas Estonian House.  An Estonian handicrafts shop with items made by local artists including fur hats, wool clothing, felted accessories, amber jewelry, ceramics, soaps, iron work, wooden toys and cooking utensils. 

Baltic Amber.  Fossilized tree sap ranging in color from light yellow to deep brown. It’s a popular commodity sold at souvenir & jewelry shops throughout the city. We purchased a carved bird figurine and pair of earrings. 

Olde Hansa Shoppe.  A medieval shop connected to the Olde Hansa Restaurant selling items like hand blown glassware, hand-spun pottery, forged iron jewelry, herbal schnapps, roasted nuts, tar soaps, beeswax candles, warm spices and small swords. 

Estonian Cuisine 

Estonian food is very hardy, commonly pickled, smoked or prepared in soups. Dishes frequently include ingredients like beet, potato, onion, cabbage, mushroom, dill, buckwheat, sour cream, game meat and Baltic seafood. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Olde Hansa.  Set within a 14th century merchant house, this restaurant offers a medieval atmosphere with its candlelit interior, carved furnishings, illustrated decor, piper music and costumed staff. Its extensive menu features hearty dishes and tasting courses with smoked game, exotic meats, cured fish, braised vegetables and  herbed breads, complemented by spiced wines, flavored beers and infused schnapps. Order the forest mushroom soup, oven baked juniper cheese and the Neptune fish platter along with a goblet of herbal or cinnamon beer and caraway schnapps. The food and ambiance struck the perfect balance of theme and authenticity without being gimmicky. Most importantly, everything tasted delicious!

Draakon.  A medieval pub in a dark candle lit stone interior with a dragon sign above the door. Come here for Glog (hot spiced wine) and Estonian beer. 

Restaurant Stenhus.  A high-end Estonian restaurant located in the hotel basement of a former merchant house. The interior is defined by its stone walls, vaulted stone ceiling, black marble floor and brick fireplace. The menu delicately layers Baltic flavors paired with wine. Try the black bread with beet butter, the smoked eel smorrebrod, eggplant steak  with buckwheat cream, halibut with leek and braised pearl onions and fermented plum with sour milk ice cream.

Restaurant Odessa.  Come for Ukrainian and Eastern European classics like the vareniki (dumplings), cabbage rolls and borscht (beet soup). Try the horseradish vodka and sprat sandwich, Odessa style vareniki stuffed with flounder & parsley and cabbage rolls filled with vegetable, mushroom and rice. 

Restaurant Cru.  A contemporary Estonian restaurant. Try the beet tartare with goat cheese snow, seeded pumpkin risotto and marbled fish made from salmon, white fish and trout garnished with roe, fresh veggies and pickled root vegetables. 

Peppersack.  A medieval restaurant with plastered stone walls, candlelit tables, wooden furniture, velvet upholstery and costumed waiters. Come for a goblet of herbed beer and vegan sorrel soup made with sorrel leaves, potato, onion, carrot and dill. Add a hard boiled egg and sour cream to it for extra flavor.

Kooker Raekoja Plats.  A small street side counter serving mini grilled pancakes and hot beverages in edible cups. Try them topped with raspberry jam and sweetened condensed milk.

Saiakanig Kohvik.  A cafe with sweet and savory breakfast pastries and pies filled with cabbage and sweet cheese. 

The Babylon Bar.  A second floor speakeasy hidden behind a bookshelf. Come here for their spirt forward cocktails, art deco atmosphere and Estonian cheese plate. 

Sigmund Freud Bar.  A cocktail bar with drinks themed after different moods and emotions. Cocktails are served in funky glasses with inventive garnishes. Sit at the bar or lounge with a therapist sofa.

The Cork Bar.  A small bar in a brick and stone walled interior. It’s popular among expats and the younger crowd. Try the Estonian Coffee made with Vana Tallinn, a rum-like liquor made in Tallinn.

Balti Jaam Market.  A three floor indoor and outdoor market with vendors selling produce, seafood, meats, grains, breads, pastries, cheese, chocolates, preserves, oils and flowers, soaps, etc. There is a range of international food vendors and restaurants. We came here for breakfast, sampling Estonian pastries.

• Kringle.  A twisted round of sweet dough with lemon and poppy seed.

• Kaneelikuklid.  A cinnamon and cardamom roll.

Where to Stay

Merchant House. There are numerous unique stays in Vanalinn including former merchant houses, renovated defensive tower and inns. We stayed in a possibly haunted merchant house available on Airbnb with a working fireplace, tall ceilings and intricate wood floor overlaid with antique rugs. 

Getting Here

By Ferry from Helsinki. We arrived in Tallinn by ferry from Helsinki on the Tallink Line. The ferry was similar to a cruise ship with large seating areas, sleeping cabins, restaurants, bars, shops, a theater and casino games. The ship voyaged 3 hours across the icy and slushy waters of the Gulf of Finland. 

For Next Time…

Three full days in Tallinn were just enough to explore the medieval city of Vanalinn. When we return, we plan to explore more of Estonia and the neighboring Baltic countries. 

Kalamaja.  A waterfront neighborhood outside of Vanalinn with maritime museums, food halls and saunas. 

Kadriorg Park & Palace.  A vast city park built for former Russian Tsar, Peter the Great. It’s home to museums, gardens and nature trails. 

Riga.  A coastal city on the Baltic Sea and capital of Latvia. The city’s cobblestone streets are lined with historic buildings, domed cathedrals and markets. 

Vilnius Old Town.  A medieval and baroque style old town in Vilnius, the capital city of Lithuania. 

Helsinki, Finland

24 Hours in Helsinki 

Helsinki, the capital city of Finland is known for its architecture, design and Scandinavian cuisine and Baltic saunas. We explored the city for one day while in transit from Finland to Estonia. 

See the Sights

Helsinki Cathedral.  A white neo-classical cathedral with 5 green copper domes located in Senate Square. During wintertime, the steps are covered in snow and become a sledding hill for children. 

Uspenski Cathedral.  A red brick orthodox cathedral with copper steeples and golden onion domes. It’s lavish interior is decorated in finely painted patterned and gold leafed imagery of Christian symbols.

Helsinki Harbor.  The city’s historic harbor is docked with wooden ships and ice breakers. Its home to seaside saunas, food markets and government buildings including the presidential palace and city hall. 

Market Square.  A market with vendors selling Finnish foods, Sami handicrafts and souvenirs on the Helsinki Harbor across from City Hall. We tried the Lohikeitto (salmon soup) and Glögi (mulled wine). 

Esplanadi Park.  A large city park leading from Market Square into the center of downtown Helsinki. Its lined with walkways, trees, benches and bronze statues.

Old Market Hall.  Helsinki’s oldest food market focused on Finnish cuisine with vendors selling and serving traditional dishes, pastries, seafood, meats and beer. Butchers sell sausage, smoked, canned and fresh meats like reindeer, elk, bear & sausage. Seafood vendors serve salmon soup, smoked fish, pickled herring, cold water prawns & caviar. Cafes offer lingonberry pastries, Runeberg tortes and Korvapuustit. We came here for lunch and enjoyed a Finnish feast. We tasted a blini with beluga caviar, deep fried sprats, pickled herring in mustard sauce on rye toast, skagen and a Runeberg torte.

Ateneum.  Finland’s largest art museum with a collection of Finnish and European artwork. We visited during an Impressionist exhibit featuring works by Finnish impressionists Ellen Thesleff, Tyko Sallinen, Magnus Enckell and other European artists like Monet, Pissarro and Finch.

Finnish Saunas

Saunas are a popular aspect of Finnish culture dating back hundreds of years. They’re built into homes, hotels and public pools.

Löyly Sauna.  A geometric wooden sauna overlooking the Gulf of Finland with 4 stream rooms including 1 traditional wood burning one and 3 electric ones. Outside is a large deck and cold plunge area in frozen harbor. Inside is a fireplace lounge, restaurant and bar. We tried all 4 saunas, they were hot, steamy and scented of wood. The wood burning one was our favorite with a pleasant smell of smoke. In between steamings, we relaxed by the fireplace with a beer and plunged into the icy harbor during freezing temperatures. Book a reservation in advance and bring flip flops and a swim suit. Lockers and towels are included. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Restaurant Nolla.  A contemporary Finnish restaurant with dishes made from seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. We tried the grilled burbot (a subarctic freshwater fish), fried mushrooms, braised cabbage & celeriac confit with caramelized pearl onions

Hotel Kamp Bar.  A luxury hotel lobby bar in a warmly lit and historic setting dating back to 1887. Come here for classic cocktails.

Cafe Eliel.  A well designed Finnish cafe and bar in the Central Station. We came here for breakfast on our way to the airport. Try the salmon and dill lihapiirakka. 

Where to Stay 

For our one night in Helsinki, we stayed at Bob W, a well designed and comfortable hostel in the city center with private rooms, a communal kitchen, public gym and luggage storage room. 

Location Specifics 

Language.  Finnish, Swedish and English are the most commonly spoken languages. 

Sami Culture.  Show respect to the Sami people, culture and traditions. 

Costs.  Finland, like much of Scandinavia is an expensive destination

Cash vs. Card.  Cash is rarely used across the country. Use credit or card debit card for most transactions. 

Tipping. Tipping is not expected or required. Tip 10% for exceptional service.

Temperature.  Helsinki gets very cold during the winter. The temperature dropped to -10C (14F) before windchill. Dress in warm layers and cover all exposed skin while outdoors for long periods of time.

For Next Time…

24 hours only gave us a taste of Helsinki. We plan to return to this Scandinavian city for longer on our next trip! When we do, we have a few places we plan to experience. 

Kallio and Harj.  Two indie neighborhoods located in the northeast of Helsinki. They’re home to a mix of vintage shops, numerous Finish cafes and a large food hall. 

Suomenlinna Sea Fortress.  An 18th Century maritime fortress linked across 6 islands in the harbor of Helsinki. The islands are home to parks, museums, restored ships and small number of cafes, restaurants and bars. 

Seurasaari Open-Air Museum.  An outdoor museum comprised of historic and restored Finnish buildings relocated from around the country. 

Nuuksio National Park.  A vast park just outside of Helsinki with access to primary forests and waterways. It’s a popular place to hike, canoe and camp, especially during the warmer months. 

Poovoo.  A picturesque and historic village with an old town comprised of painted wooden houses, cobblestone streets and a medieval cathedral. It’s located about an hour east of Helsinki. 

Lapland, Finland

The Arctic Circle 

Lapland is the northernmost region of Finland located within the Arctic Circle and Boreal Forest. It’s defined by its frozen landscapes, snow covered forests and the northern lights. It’s a hub for winter sports, steamy saunas, Lappish cuisine and Sami culture.We visited in mid January, towards the end of Polar Night, a time when daylight is limited to a few hours and the sun never rises above the horizon. 

Inari, Lapland 

Inari is a small village on the remote shores of Lake Inari in Lapland. It’s a hub for winter activities like dog sledding, snowmobiling and cross country skiing. Several hotels, restaurants and tour operators are based in the town. Inari is a culturally important place to the indigenous Sami people, home to their parliament, museums and sacred sites. 

Holiday Village Inari.  A hotel on Lake Inari with red painted cabins, pine paneled interiors and a sauna. The cozy cabins overlooks Lake Inari and the night sky. It’s the perfect place to spot the Aurora on a clear winter evening. 

See the Sights

Siida.  A museum dedicated to the Sami people and nature of Lapland. Exhibits document the Arctic seasons, animals and landscapes through the guise of the ice ages and climate change as well as include artifacts and historical context of the Sami People. There is an open air museum within the forest behind the museum with wooden homes, saunas, and storage buildings. 

Sajos.  A contemporary wooden building home to the Sami Parliament and Council. It acts as a cultural center with Sami artifacts, library, auditorium, materials shop and cafe.

Lake Inari.  A large freshwater lake with thousands of tiny islands. It’s referred to as the Sami Sea for its importance to the Sami People. It acts as a fishing resource for trout, salmon, Arctic char, white fish and perch. Many winter activities take place on the ice including ice fishing, snowmobiling and Aurora spotting. 

Boreal Forest.  A vast pine and birch forest covering most of the Arctic. In Finland, it’s home to wildlife like reindeer, arctic rabbits and snow foxes. 

Juutua River.  The river flowing from Lake Inari through Inari. There’s a short trail along its southern bank behind Sajos. Watch for arctic hares running through the snow.

Visit Inari Tours

We booked multiple winter activities with Visit Inari Tours, including snowmobiling, husky mushing and cross country skiing. They also arrange ice fishing, reindeer feeding, snow shoeing and Aurora safaris. All winter tours include gear like boots, balaclavas, mittens, helmets and thermal overalls.

Sami Snowmobile Safari 

Suited up in a polar onesie, we mounted our snowmobile and sped off onto the frozen Lake Inari. Our guide led us between islands where we spotted groups of reindeer crossing the icy lake. We rode through wilderness trails and past pine trees drooping under the weight of fresh snow. Along the 34km route, we made stops to visit the Wilderness Church and sacred Sami islands including Ukko and Vanha Hautuumaasaari. After a few hours, we stopped at a small island with a Sami style conical hut. Within it, we ate a warm lunch of vegetable soup, rye bread and hot cider around a cozy fire. 

Wilderness Church.  A remote wooden church in the forest along the shore of Lake Inari. It’s the oldest building in Northern Finland, dating back to 1760.

Ukko Island.  An island on Lake Inari with a tall rocky point sacred to the Sami People. Offerings are made here  to Ukko, the “God of Thunder”

Vanha Hautuumaasaari.  A sacred island on Lake Inari and burial ground for the Sami People.

Husky Mushing 

Ever since our first trip to the Arctic, we’ve dreamt of going husky mushing. Lapland was the perfect place to make that dream come true. After suiting up in a polar onesie and listening to a brief lesson, we were paired with a sled of Siberian and Alaskan huskies. The pack of dogs were excited to run; howling, barking and jumping around before bolting off in unison with us behind them. We mushed our way through the Lappish countryside, past snow covered trees and fields of white along the twisting 10km trail. As we sled across the frozen landscape, ice formed on our eyelashes and hair in the subzero temperature. Half way through, we traded places, each getting a chance to drive. At the end, we got to cuddle and pet the huskies, before warming up by the fire.

Cross Country Skiing 

Cross country skiing is a Finnish pass time and national sport. We booked a 2 hour lesson and learned the basics on a groomed track in an arena. Following the tracks, we skied uphill into the wooded trails and continued to improve our form. After a couple of kilometers, we returned downhill, intermittently picking up speed and gliding along the tracks with ease.

The Northern Lights 

On night three, still overcoming jet lag, we woke up at 3am and spotted the Aurora putting on a show above our cabin. We layered up, went outside and walked towards Lake Inari, distancing ourselves from the hotel lights. It took half an hour for our eyes to adjust to the darkness.We stared upwards as ribbons of green stretched across the starry night sky, swirling and waving in brilliant formations. The Aurora would vary in strength, fading away then reappearing as fast moving bands that danced and shimmered overhead. 

Pro Tips.  It’s easier to observe the Aurora in total darkness, away from bright lights and cities. The Aurora is always fainter and less vibrant in person than in photos. 

Places to Eat

Restaurant Aanaar.  A fine dining restaurant at the Hotel Juutua. The contemporary menu is made with locally sourced ingredients true to Sami and Finnish cuisine. The dining room has a warmly lit interior overlooking the Juutuanjoki River. Order a mix of dishes like the roasted parsley roots, smoked beets, pickled white fish, fried cod tongue, charred cod cheek and cloudberry honey cake. The table next to us ordered smoked reindeer heart.

Restaurant Aurora.  A contemporary restaurant at the Visit Inari Hotel with Lappish dishes. The dining room overlooks Lake Inari and is decorated in Sami art. For dinner, try the Lake Inari white fish with dill potato purée, bourbon glazed Arctic char, lingonberry and blueberry parfait. For lunch, the Arctic pizza with cured salmon, shrimp and dill toppings.

Restaurant Ukko.  A restaurant at the Inari Wilderness Hotel with views of Lake Inari. The dining room is decorated with timber beams, wooden furniture and reindeer antler chandeliers. For dinner, try the celeriac soup with pickled apples, cloudberry cocktail, cured Arctic char and gratinated lake perch.

Saariselkä, Lapland 

Saariselkä is a winter resort village with blanketed in snow. It’s slopes and back country trails traversed by skiers, snowboarders and tobogganers. The town is located 1 hour southeast of Inari, making it the perfect place to enjoy nearby winter activities.

Saariselkä Ski & Sport Resort.  The most northern winter resort in Europe with two fells (Finnish mountains) and slopes for skiing, snowboarding & tobogganing. It’s known for its 1,200 meter Toboggan Run, the longest in Finland.

Toboggan Run.  We visited Saariselkä specifically for the toboggan run. After taking a lift to the top of the fell, we reached the run. We sat in our sleds and pushed off, quickly picking up speed as we sled straight downhill. Halfway down, the run flattened out before becoming steeper with twists and turns. It was exhilarating as we picked up speed, controlling direction of the sled by hand and slowing down by foot. Once reaching the bottom, we ran back to the lift with sled in hand ready to ride again.

Frozen Ring Ice Karting.  Exactly as it sounds, go-karting on an outdoor snow and ice track. Late in the day and with the track to ourselves, we raced each other, drifting around corners and spinning into snowbanks. In just over 15 minutes, we were able to complete 8 laps before sliding across the finish line. It cost €65 each. Though expensive, it was a one of a kind experience and well worth it. Book here!

Restaurant Pirkon Pirtti.  Come for the arctic bouillabaisse made from shrimp, arctic char, cod, mussels, sour cream and dill. We also tried the Arctic seafood platter with roasted Arctic char, pan fried Inari white fish and smoked salmon. For desert, the cloud berry parfait with “Aurora sauce.” It has a wooden interior with a stone fireplace. 

Pub Panimo.  A pub with a selection of Finnish and foreign beers in cozy beer hall with wooden tables, a stone fireplace and musician stage.

Lappish Cuisine 

Cuisine in Lapland is heavily based off of local, wild and foraged ingredients. Food is one of the best ways to experience Lapland.

Root Vegetables.  Celeriac, parsley root, beets, potatoes and carrots are commonly used in Lappish cuisine, often severed roasted, pickled, puréed or in soups

Berries.  Popular throughout Lapland. Berries are often foraged. Try them fresh or jammed. 

• Cloudberries.  Orange berries of clustered round nodules that resemble clouds. Their taste is entirely unique but has notes of peach and nectarine.

• Lingonberries.  Little red berries that have a sweet & tart taste., similar to a cross between cranberry and pomegranate.

• Blueberries.  Smaller and sweeter than US blueberries. 

Wild Mushrooms.  Foraged and prepared in various dishes, sauces or pickled. Trumpet Chanterelle is one of the most common.

Freshwater Fish.  Whitefish, salmon, arctic char and perch are commonly caught in Lake Inari. They’re often served grilled, smoked or pickled and served with dill. 

Reindeer.  Though we didn’t try it, reindeer is regularly served in various forms at restaurants & sold at markets across the country.

Skagen.  Cold water prawn salad. It consists of prawn mixed with mayo, sour cream or mustard and garnished with dill and fish roe often served on rye bread. 

Lihapiirakka.  A traditional Finnish pie typically made with savory ingredients like meat, rice, onion and herbs wrapped in puffy pie dough. 

Rye Bread.  Flat round discs of rye bread. They’re common at breakfast with butter and cheese or as a base for open faced sandwiches. 

Korvapuustit.  A pasty made from sweet dough rolled with cinnamon and cardamom.

Karelian Pie.  A ovular open faced rye crust pie with crimped edges and filled with porridge. Try it with jam or yogurt. 

Runeberg Torte.  A small cylindrical almond and rum cake with a raspberry jam and icing ring topping. It’s named after a Finnish writer and often served in January.

Beers.  Lagers & pale ales are very popular in Lapland. 

• Lapin Kulta,  A light beer made in Lapland also called Lapin Gold

• Saana,  A Laplan brewed pale ale. 

• Karhu,  A lager with a bear logo.

• Karjala,  A slightly hoppy lager. 

Glögi.  Spiced hot wine.

Location Specifics 

Language.  Finnish, Swedish and English are the most commonly spoken languages. 

Sami Culture.  Show respect to the Sami people, culture and traditions. 

Costs.  Finland, like much of Scandinavia is an expensive destination

Cash vs. Card.  Cash is rarely used across the country. Use credit or card debit card for most transactions. 

Tipping. Tipping is not expected or required. Tip 10% for exceptional service.

Temperature.  Lapland gets very cold during the winter. The temperature dropped to -28C (-18F) before windchill one night. Dress in several warm layers, cover all exposed skin, use hand and toe warmers.

Driving.  Driving is easy during the winter. The roads are regularly plowed. All rental cars are equipped with snow tires. Rent a car at the Ivalo airport from Green Motion. 

For Next Time…

We’ve developed a love of Scandinavia and hope to return to Finland one day! When we do, we plan to visit the village of Rovaniemi during Christmas and return to Lapland during the late summer when the berries bloom and the sun doesn’t set. 

Copenhagen, Denmark

A Scandinavian City

Copenhagen is consistently ranked as one of the happiest places in the world. The Scandinavian city is home to boat lined canals, cobblestone streets and colorful buildings, centuries old castles and seat to the Danish monarchy. It’s a hub for design, contemporary European cuisine and seasonal Christmas markets. The city tells a rich history through its many museums, historic architecture and canals. 

Copenhagen’sCanals & Neighborhoods

The Nyhavn Canal.  A picturesque 17th century canal with historic colorful buildings, old wooden ships, cafes, bars and restaurants, some of which are located on the old wooden ships. Strømma Canal Tours depart from here every hour, leading past many bridges and sights along Copenhagen’s Grand Canal, The Christianshavns Canal and Frederiksholms Canals. 

The Frederiksholms Canal.  A canal lined with all types of vessels including fishing boats, floating restaurants, a light house ship and multitudes of house boats. We spent our stay in Copenhagen, docked along the canal in a cozy wooden ship. The cabin included a bed at the bow of the boat, open kitchen and living area with port holes overlooking the water. Book on Airbnb.

Indre By.  A large neighborhood at Copenhagen’s city center with canals and roads lined with historic buildings, national monuments, plazas and shopping streets. 

Slotsholmen.  An island neighborhood surrounded by the Frederiksholms Canal. The island was once the seat of the Danish monarchy and is the present home of parliament, the prime minister’s office, multiple museums, public squares and stately buildings. 

Christmas in Copenhagen 

Copenhagen’s Christmas festivities are in full swing by late November! The city is illuminated in twinkle lights, pine trees stand tall in public plazas, buildings are decorated with garland and Christmas markets lure people in with their holiday cheer. 

Christmas Markets 

The city center is home to at least three Christmas Markets. Each one is very similar in style with decorated wooden stalls selling gifts and traditional Christmas market food and beverages.

• Julemarked Kongens Nytorv. The largest Christmas market lining the perimeter of King’s New Square and stretching towards the beginning of the Nyhavn Canal.

• Julemarked Højbro Plads.The second largest Christmas market located in High Bridge Square between the Frederiksholms Canal and Strøget.

• Julemarked HC Andersen.The smallest Christmas market located in Nytorv Square.

Christmas Market Food

Some of the classic Christmas Market food and beverages are: 

• Gløgg.  Hot wine mulled with spices, raisins and toasted almonds. 

• Lumumba.  Hot chocolate with rum or amaretto and marshmallow or whipped cream on top. 

• Æbleskiver.  Fried fluffy balls of dough with jam and powdered sugar. 

• Brændte Mandler.  Roasted candied almonds. Their irresistible scent fills the air. 

• Pølser.  Long thin sausages cooked over a bed of coals, placed between two halves of a bun and garnished with sauces, onions and pickles. 

• Fish & Chips.  Deep fried cod with French fries. 

• Roasted Chestnuts.  Warm, buttery, soft and starchy nuts. 

Visit Tivoli Gardens 

A romantic 19th century theme park with rides, restaurants and gardens.The park has classic rides like a ferris wheel and carousel, two small but nonetheless thrilling roller coasters and a wide range of other rides and games. There is no shortage of places to eat with sit down style restaurants, a food hall and stands along the park’s paths. Within the center of the park is a pond with walkways, paddle boats and a pirate ship.The park is said to have inspired Disney world with sections themed to look and feel like China, Morocco and India. Each section decorated in architectural elements and monuments representative of each culture.  Being here during the holidays, the park was transformed into a Christmas wonderland with decorated trees, twinkle lights, Christmas music and all the elements of any good Christmas market. 

See the Sights

Copenhagen is a beautiful city lined with canals, cobble stone squares, historic buildings, castles, towers, palaces and churches. We toured several sights as we explored the city. 

Church of Our Savior Spire.  A 17th century church with a tall spiral spire and lookout. The interior and lower portion of the spire zigzags upwards through stairs and narrow passageways within the tower passing church bells and broken statues. The upper portion is located outside of the spire and winds up its exterior via a spiral staircase with the most stunning 360 views of Copenhagen.

Rundetaarn (The Round Tower).  A 16th century tower in the center of Copenhagen with rooftop views of the city. It was built for use as an observatory and still functions as one today. The wide spiral ramp leading to its top was designed so that horse and carriages could climb to the top. 

Rosenborg Castle.  A 15th century castle previously home to Denmark’s monarchy. The castle is now a museum with preserved lavish rooms, hidden chambers, portraits of the monarchs, antique furniture, tapestries and artifacts. It’s home to the Crown Jewels watched over by royal guards. The Crown Jewels include multiple jewel encrusted gold crowns, elaborate sets of jewelry, the coronation sepulture and large pink diamond. The estate is surrounded by the King’s Garden with sculptures, paths and fountains. 

Kunst Museum.  Denmark’s largest art museum with Danish and European art ranging from the 15th century to present day. We visited when Matisse’s “Red Room” was on display with several other pieces depicted in it for the first time since he painted the work. 

Gråbrødretorv Square.  A cobble stone square with colorful historic buildings, restaurants that spill out into the square and cocktail bars including Strøm Bar and Peder Oxe’s Kaelder. It was one of our favorite places to visit and felt like a hidden gem in the city center.

Christiansborg Palace.  The seat of the Danish prime minister, supreme court and parliament. It has a tall tower with views of the city and equestrian lawn.

Torvehallerne.  A food hall and market with over 60 restaurants and stalls selling baked goods, seafood, meats, cheese, wine, snaps, spices, produce and kitchenware. It’s a great place to try some of the traditional Danish dishes. Try Hallernes Smørrebrød for smørrebrød, Bageri for vienerbrød and Boutique Fisk for fiskfrikideler. 

Free Town Christiania.  An abandoned military base turned into a self governing community. Its former warehouses, bunkers and barracks that have been converted into homes, art studios, music venues, shops, restaurants and a brewery. Much of the neighborhood is decorated with street art and graffiti while buildings are retrofitted with larger windows, balconies and rooftop enclosures. The neighborhood is also a green space with lush nature and bike trails along the canal and where nature has began to take over. Though it remains illegal, Free Town Christianiais the only place in Denmark where vendors openly sell cannabis and related products

Good to Know.  Avoid directly photograph anything “drug” related. Mind the the “no photo” signs where posted. 

Danish Cuisine 

There are two types of Danish cuisine, traditional and contemporary. Traditional Danish cuisine is defined by a few main types of food like Smørrebrød, Fiskfrikideler and Vienerbrød. Contemporary Danish cuisine focuses on locally sourced, seasonal, foraged and pickled ingredients. 

Smørrebrød.  An open-face sandwich decoratively topped with colorful ingredients on a thin slice of heavily seeded bread. It’s often seafood based with cured salmon, cold water prawns, fried cod or pickled herring. It’s a common lunch meal and possibly Denmark’s most popular dish.

Snaps.  A herbal, bitter and high proof alcoholic beverage often drank as shots with Smørrebrød.

Fiskfrikideler.  A deep fried ball of dough, onion and cod, sometimes mixed or garnished with dill.

Vienerbrød.  Commonly referred to as the Danish, this is any style of flaky pastry with a custard or jam center. The most traditional of which has a light drizzle of chocolate of the top of it. Other common pastries include cinnamon rolls and cardamom croissants. 

Buns.  A hardy bread roll served with butter, jam and cheese. It’s a common breakfast.

Places to Eat & Drink

We toured Copenhagen on foot and by taste! These were several of the restaurants, cafes, bars and food stands that we visited. 

Restaurants 

Bistro Lupa.  A vegan restaurant specializing in contemporary Danish cuisine with a 5 course tasting menu and wine paring. The restaurant focuses on zero waste so everything is seasonal, locally scoured, foraged and pickled. 

Oysters & Grill.  A rustic seafood and wine bar with a 12 course tasting menu for 2. It came with a range of shellfish served different ways including raw oysters, fried oysters, scallop ceviche, grilled scallops on the shell, fried shrimp, pick and peal shrimp, mussel mariners, fried calamari, veggie crudités, salad, French fries, bread and dessert. 

Hanegal.  A food cart serving pølser out front of the Round Tower. This one offers multiple types of sausage including a vegan sausage.

Nyhavn 17.  A yellow building along the Nyhavn Canal with a dimly lit and wooden interior. The restaurant serves traditional Danish cuisine like smørrebrød. We had fried cod and pickled herring smørrebrød with snaps and gløgg.

Coffee Shops & Cafes

From hidden cafes, to cute coffee shops and local chains, there is no shortage of places to find a pastry and morning coffee. 

Hart Brød+Bar.  A waterfront cafe with pasties, coffee, breads and wine. Try the spandauer pastries (traditional danishes) and cardamom croissants.

GRØD.  A chain restaurant specializing in stovetop porridge and overnight oats.

Lille Petra.  A cafe hidden within a courtyard of a building servings Danish breakfast buns. 

Original Coffee.  A popular coffee shop chain located throughout the city. 

Bars & Pubs 

Across the city are a range cocktail bars, speakeasies, traditional pubs and breweries. Some of our favorite are: 

Strøm Bar.  An Art Deco and tropically decorated cocktail bar with cozy seating and a small shuffle board.

1105.  A late night bar hidden in an alley and behind a velvet curtain serving speciality cocktails. 

The Barking Dog.  A tequila and mezcal focused cocktail bar in a cozy basement apartment style setting.

Pulp.  A cocktail bar with a creative pop culture themed menu in a warm Danish designed interior. 

Peder Oxe’s Kaelder.  A cocktail bar and restaurant in a catacomb style tunnel and chambers of an old church. 

Nyhavnskroen.  Located on the Nyhavn Canal, this is a late night pub serving liters of beer and classic cocktails. 

Nemo’s.  Located in Christiania, this is a popular brunch spot in front of an outdoor music venue. Having recently eaten, we stopped in for a locally brewed beer.

Location Specifics

Hygge.  The Danish concept of coziness and surrounding yourself with things that make life good, especially during the dark cold winters. This can be friendship, laughter, warmth, food or drinks. It’s pronounced hoo-gah.

Walking.  Copenhagen is a very pedestrian friendly and walkable city. We spent most of our visit walking between neighborhoods and destinations. Be careful not to walk into a bike lane.

Reservations.  Reservations are typically needed at restaurants and bars to guarantee a seat. 

Cash vs Card.  Cash is rarely needed as most places, including food carts, take credit card.

Language.  Danis is the national language though English is widely spoken as a second language throughout Copenhagen. 

Public Restrooms.  There are public restrooms throughout the city, most commonly in squares and plaza. 

For Next Time…

Next time we’re in Copenhagen we plan to venture into the country side and across the harbor to Sweden. 

Visit Skovtårnet (The Forest Tower).  A contemporary wooden structure in the middle of the Danish forest about an hour south of Copenhagen. 

Frederiksborg Castle & Gardens.  A Danish Royal castle and grounds on a lake in the countryside about 30 minutes north of Copenhagen. 

Malmö.  The Swedish city across the harbor from Copenhagen. It’s known for the Turning Torso, Scandinavia’s tallest skyscraper. 

Icelandic Roadtrip

Icelandic Roadtrip

Iceland is a Nordic country in the North Atlantic famed for its other worldly landscapes, volcanos, glaciers, waterfalls, black sand beaches and geysers. It’s a frequent place to spot the Northern Lights in the winter months, bathe in thermal springs and whale watch. We visited Iceland for 5 days in mid-January, road tripping around the Golden Circle, along the South Coast and making time to explore Reykjavik. 

The Golden Circle 

The Golden Circle is a scenic route with several natural sites including a fault line, geysers, waterfalls and volcanos. It’s easily reachable from Reykjavík and can be explored within a day. 

Almannagjá Fault Line

The Almannagjá Fault Line is the location is where the North American and Eurasian plates are visibly pulling apart. We arrived just before sunrise. The sky was light pink and yellow in the early morning light, tones that were reflected by the white snow covered landscape. From a lookout, we admired the vast fissure that split the landscape in half, spanning for miles in both directions. After watching the sun rise, we followed a trail that descended into the fissure. On both sides of us were walls of jagged rocks dusted in fresh snow. The trail continued a few kilometers further. 

Getting Here.  The Almannagjá Fault Line is located about 45 minutes to 1 hour rom Reykjavík by car. 

Strokkur Geyser

The Strokkur Geyser is an active geyser with impressive eruptions happing every 5-15 minutes. We arrived as a cloud from a recent eruption billowed across the road in front of us. The smell of sulphur filled the air as boiling water bubbled from craters dotting the landscape around us. Soon after reaching the geyser, it erupted in a whoosh, sending steam and water 30 meters high. We walked to several other geysers in the area as the Strokkur Geyser routinely erupted in the background. 

Getting Here.  The Strokkur Geyser islocated about 1 hour from the Almannagjá Fault Line by car. 

Gullfoss Waterfall

The Gullfoss Waterfall is a massive waterfall on the Hvita River. The river cascades down two diagonal cliffs over 100 feet into the canyon below. The waterfall and river were mostly frozen when we visited but none-the-less dramatic. 

Getting Here.  The Gullfoss Waterfall islocated about 15 minutes from the Strokkur Geyser by car.

Kerið Crater Lake

The Kerið Crater Lake is a small lake located in the crater of an extinct volcano. The volcano is one of several forming a mini volcanic arc. While here, we hiked around the entire rim and descended into the crater. The lake was completely frozen over, allowing us to walk to its center. The steep snow covered pathways were extremely icy making is slightly dangerous but worth the hike. 

Getting Here.  The Kerið Crater Lake islocated about 1 hour from the Gullfoss Waterfall by car.

Ægissíðufoss Waterfall

Ægissíðufoss Waterfall is a small but beautiful cascading waterfall located on the Ytri-Rangá River in the town of Hella. The Hekla Volcano fumed in the distance upstream. 

Getting Here.  The Ægissíðufoss Waterfall islocated about 15 minutes outside of the town of Hella by car.

Our Cottage in Hella 

After exploring the Golden Circle, we spent the remainder of our evening at a cottage in the town Hella. The cottage was one of several perched on a hill overlooking a snow covered field. We made it our home base during our stay along Iceland’s southern coast. Book on Airbnb. 

The Northern Lights

The Northern Lights danced in the sky above our cottage every morning and evening. The aurora ranged from faint ribbons of pale green to brilliant displays of neon green that swirled and stretched across the sky. There was even a rare combination of green and red bands. We monitored the aurora conditions using NOAA’s Space Weather Prediction Center.

Dinner in Hella

Stracta Bistro.  A nordic restaurant serving Icelandic cuisine. Having spent all day outside, we warmed up with a bowl of Fiskisúpa, fish soup, and side of Rugbrauð, Icelandic rye bread.

The South Coast (Part 1)

Iceland’s South Coast is scenic destination home to glaciers, black sand beaches and waterfalls. We spent two days roadtripping along the South Coast from our cottage in Hella. On day one of the South Coast, we hiked across a frozen glacier, walked along a scenic black sand beach and watched impressive waterfall. 

Sólheimajökull Glacier Tour 

High on our list of to dos in Iceland was to visit a glacier. We booked an excursion with Arctic Adventures through Get Your Guide. We met our guide at 10am and geared up with ice cleats, helmets, a harness and an ice pick. Our guide took us and a small group on a hike along the lagoon to the front edge of the glacier. From there, we began our trek onto the ice. As we walked, it crunched below our cleats as we maneuvered through crevices and across its surface. The surface was rippled yet smoothed by water and wind. As we looked across the glacier, we admired the blue hues emanating from it and veins of black volcanic ash from previous eruptions. 

Getting Here.  The Sólheimajökull Glacier islocated about 1 hour from the town of Hella by car.

Lunch in Vik

After our glacier tour we drove to Vik, a remote coastal village on the southern most point of Iceland with colorful wooden houses and a black sand beach. While here, we ate lunch at The Soup Company. We ordered their volcano bowl, a black bread bowl with “winter soup” made from carrots, onions, lentil, coconut cream and crushed pineapple. They offer free refills of any soup so we went back for seconds and tried the broccoli cheddar. 

Getting Here.  Vik islocated about 30 minutes from The Sólheimajökull Glacier by car.

Reynisfjara Beach 

On the other side of Vik is Reynisfjara Beach. A black sand beach with jagged rock formations sticking out of the water and hexagonal basalt columns along the cliffside. Loving the beach, even in winter, we walked nearly two miles down it as the sun was setting. The waves here are ferocious and unpredictable so we stayed far away from the shoreline, keeping our eyes in the water and following warnings. 

Getting Here.  Reynisfjara Beach islocated about 15 minutes from Vik by car.

Skogafoss Waterfall 

Skogafoss is a grand and picturesque waterfall, both impressive for its height and width. The water seemed to move in slow motion as it fell. It was equally as peaceful as powerful to watch. There is a trail and staircase to an overlook at the top of the falls. It also leads further upstream to several smaller waterfalls. It was closed when we visited due to snow and ice. 

Getting Here.  Skogafoss Waterfall islocated about 30 minutes from Reynisfjara Beach by car.

Dinner in Selfoss 

After exploring glaciers, black sand beaches and waterfalls, we drove to the town of Selfoss for dinner in the town square. A renovated but historic site with traditional Icelandic architecture with colorful buildings, ornate moldings and gridded windows. The square had a holiday feel with piles of snow, string lights and a glittering Christmas tree still on display. 

Messinn. A restaurant specializing in contemporary adaptations of traditional Icelandic cuisine. We had the scallops served in a shell, cod cheeks sautéed in a miso glaze and plokkfiskur, a cod, potato and béchamel casserole. The interior looked like a vintage modern ship with wooden booths, port hole windows, a canvass ceiling made from sails and nautical decor.

Getting Here.  Selfoss islocated about 1 hour 15 minutes from Skogafoss Waterfall by car.

The South Coast (Part 2)

Iceland’s South Coast is scenic destination home to glaciers, black sand beaches and waterfalls. We spent two days roadtripping along the South Coast from our cottage in Hella. On day two of the South Coast, we watched the sunrise from an ice covered black sand beach, hiked to a basalt column waterfall, went climbing on Iceland’s largest glacier and were continually dazzled by the Northern Lights. 

Diamond Beach

Diamond Beach is a black sand beach covered jewel-like ice crystals. The glow of the sunrise cast a pink tone across the mountains and illuminated fragments of glacial ice that washed up on shore, resembling glittering diamonds set against the jet black sand. A vertical crescent moon rested low on the horizon while seals swam off shore and waves calmly splashed onto the beach. Photographers, dressed in winter gear, focused their lenses with the aim of capturing the scene while we gazed upon its pristine beauty. 

Getting Here.  Diamond Beach islocated about 4 hours from the town of Hella by car.

Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon 

The Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon separates the Atlantic Ocean from the Jökulsárlón Glacier. Ice bergs flow from it into the ocean, breaking apart and washing up on Diamond Beach. The lagoon’s surface looked like glass, only interrupted by the occasional seal coming up for air and taking a curious look around. 

Good to Know.  There are food trucks serving crepes, cold water prawns and fish & chips in the parking lot. 

Getting Here.  The Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon is located less than 5 minutes from Diamond Beach by car.

Svarrifoss Waterfall

The Svarrifoss Waterfall is a picturesque waterfall famous for its hexagonal basalt columns. During winter, the waterfall is frozen over with large icicles hanging from the hexagonal basalt columns flanking the waterfall. It’s accessible via the 2km Svarrifoss Trail starting at the Skaftafell Visitor Center. The trail, which has some steep sections offers views of the coast and mountains. It passes some smaller waterfalls and ruins of stone dwellings. 

Getting Here.  The trail head to the Svarrifoss Waterfall is located about 45 minutes from Diamond Beach. 

Falljökull Glacier

The Falljökull Glacier is glacial tongue extending from Iceland’s largest glacier, Vatnajökull Glacier. We came here to hike, explore ice caves and watch the sunset with a guide from Troll Expeditions. After gearing up, we trekked across the frozen lagoon and ash covered ice until reaching a series of blue and white ice crevices.

Ice Caves. A large crevice with a staircase carved into it lead to the entrance of an ice cave. The cave was blue with curved walls, rippled surfaces and deep blue veins where the ice had been heavily compressed. The cave lead to a narrow tunnel that burrowed deeper into the glacier, ending at a small chamber barely big enough for the two of us to squeeze into.

Glacial Sunset. We ascended further as the sun set, reaching a relatively smooth clearing with waves of ice that extended upwards towards jagged crevices and steep cliffs. Now high on the glacier, we stopped to listen to the silence, only interrupted by the occasional sharp crack of the ice. The color of the sky turned vibrant pink while the ice continually became bluer until it seemed to glow. Before reaching the ash covered base of the glacier, we came upon a window in the ice that framed the pink sky and mountain beyond. 

Getting Here.  The Falljökull Glacier islocated about 20 minutes from the Skaftafell Visitor Center by car.

Dinner in Vik

On our return to Hella, we stopped in Vik for dinner at Drangar, a restaurant specializing in modern Icelandic cuisine located at the Kria Hotel. We were welcomed with bread & butter sprinkled with black salt served on a lava rock. We ordered two Gulls and a range of small plates to share: an onion tart, Arctic char tartare, curried cod on a bed of risotto and a poached plum with skyr (Icelandic yogurt). 

Reykjavik

Reykjavik is scenic capital city of Iceland. It’s walkable downtown streets are lined with colorful corrugated buildings, old wooden houses and monumental landmarks. Icelandic boutiques and restaurants invite travelers in to shop for locally made goods and taste the country’s cuisine. The city is an ideal starting or ending point for most adventures in Iceland. 

Hallgrímskirkja Cathedral

The Hallgrímskirkja Cathedral is a stepped concrete cathedral designed with inspiration from the Icelandic landscape. The shape is meant to resemble an erupting geyser with its facade made from hexagonal columns reminiscent of the basalt columns seen across the country. There is an elevator to the top of the spire which overlooks Reykjavik. It was closed when we visited due to a funeral. 

Streets & Boutiques 

Rainbow Street.  A downtown street painted in a rainbow with boutiques and views of Hallgrímskirkja Cathedral.

Laugavegur.  A street with boutiques, vintage stores, design shops, restaurants, bakeries, cocktail bars and hotels. 

Reykjavik Raincoat.  A boutique specializing in modern raincoats sold in a range of colors. Their coats are made from the same material that Icelandic fishermen wear at sea. They also have wool accessories like hats, sweaters and scarves. 

Rammagerdin.  A boutique featuring local artists and handmade Icelandic products including taxidermy puffins, wool blankets, sweaters, yarn, leather gloves, furs, artwork and skincare items. 

The Water Front 

Reykjavik’s waterfront overlooks the bay and snow covered mountains across from it. It’s the site of multiple landmarks and starting point for whale watching tours. 

The Sun Voyager Sculpture.  A steel structure shaped like a Viking long boat, meant to inspire exploration. 

Harpa Concert Hall.  A geometric glass facade with a colorful kaleidoscopic effect. It’s inspired by the hexagonal basalt columns found across the island but also looks like the scales of a fish.

Höfði Lighthouse.  An iconic bright yellow lighthouse at the entrance of the Reykjavik Harbor.  

The Old Harbor.  Originally a fishing port and now a seaside neighborhood with restaurants and companies offering whale watching tours. There is free parking here.

Whale Watching 

Wildlife tours frequently leave from Reykjavik’s Old Harbor in search of spotting blue whales. As the ship set sail, we admired Reykjavik’s skyline behind us and the snow covered mountains across the bay ahead of us. Soon after entering the bay, the captain announced “thar she blows” to alert us he had spotted a whale! For newly two hours, we sailed around the icy bay watching a blue whale breach the surface, thrash its tail, spray water from its blow hole and dive back below. While on deck, we kept an eye out for where it would re-appear, often spotting seals hunting for fish. From the interior cabin we enjoyed fresh made waffles while warming up with hot coffee. We booked with Special Tours Iceland.

The Blue Lagoon

The Blue Lagoon is a geothermal spring famed is for its milky turquoise water. Its pools meander between hardened lava formations as towers of steam and mist rise above its surface. The environment is one of natural contrast with black lava rocks dusted in white snow and warm water juxtaposed the cold air. Stand under a hot waterfall while soaking in the thermal pools, enjoy a silica mud facial mask and drink fresh glacial water to hydrate. The lagoon is also a resort with a hotel, spa and multiple restaurants, including one built into an 800 year old lava cliff. Come here to relax immediately after flying into Reykjavik or before flying out. Book Tickets ahead of time. 

Places to Eat & Drink in Reykjavík

Reykjavík Fish. One of many restaurants offering the local favorite. We enjoyed large portions of crispy and tender fried cod paired with salted fries and Icelandic beer. The fisherman styled interior with whale paintings, nautical decor and lights shaded in dried cod skin added to the ambiance.

Matur og Drykkur. A Michelin stared restaurant serving seasonal tasting menus with Icelandic dishes and contemporary adaptations. The menu included: 

• Pickled beets with fennel straws

• Smoked trout with cucumber 

• Cheese with sea truffle and crispy flatbread 

• Halibut soup with a creamy broth 

• Bacalao croquettes with chive oil and béchamel 

• Hazelnut encrusted cod with parsnip purée and and smoked carrots 

• Rhubarb jam with skyr and ginger crumble 

• A coffee and spice cake topped with cream cheese icing and puffed barley

Braud & Co.  A bakery and cafe specializing in Snúður (cinnamon rolls), Rugbrauð (Icelandic rye bread), sourdough bread and pastries.

Víkinga Pylsur.  A food truck across from Hallgrímskirkja Cathedral with Icelandic sausages. We ordered a vegan version with purpled cabbage, seitan crumble, fried onion and creamy mustard. 

Lemmy.  A small pub and microbrewery located inside of an old wooden house in the center of town. We sampled 4 beers on tap:

• Einstök Toasted Porter.  A nutty and rich flavor. 

• Víking.  A classic light Pilsner available across Iceland. 

• Lemmy IPA.  A house IPA infused with coffee. 

• Bóndi Session IPA.  A semi hoppy IPA available across Iceland.

Tips for Planning an Icelandic Road Trip

Rent a Car.  Driving is the easiest way to get around on our own schedule. Rent a 4x4 wheel drive with an automatic transmission. We reserved a car before arriving in Iceland with Europcar at the Keflavik Airport. 

Book a Home Base.  Choose to stay somewhere central. We stayed at Hestheimar, a cottage in the town of Hella, half way between Reykjavik and Vik, making in the ideal location to explore the Golden Circle and South Coast from. 

Maximize Daylight. Plan to maximize daylight during the winter months. In mid-January, there is only about 5 hours of sunlight per day.

Prepare for the Weather.  Prepare and dress for rain, sleet, snow, ice and high winds. Hand and toe warmers maker all the difference while in the cold. 

Monitor Road Conditions.  Review the current Road Conditions before driving.

Avoid the Shoulder.  Do not pull over into the snowy roadside. You will get stuck! Instead, park on the road with your emergency flashers on. 

Drive the Speed Limit.  Hidden cameras are positioned across the country. If speeding, they will catch you and result in expensive fines! 

Rest Stops.  Most sites have nearby hotel, restaurant and restroom. 

Gas Stations.  Most towns have their own gas station. Be prepared for the extremely expensive prices. 

Buy Snacks.  Stock up on snacks and water for roadtrips. 

For Next Time…

Iceland is a remarkable country to visit! We loved our time road tripping around the  Golden Circle, along the South Coast and exploring Reykjavik. We plan to return to Iceland during the summer months: 

• See the green moss covering the landscape. 

• Explore the north side of the country. 

• Pet an Icelandic horse. 

• Visit and birdwatch on a puffin colony. 

• Experience the midnight sun. 

• Bathe in some of the lesser known thermal springs. 

The Big Island, Hawaii

The Big Island, Hawaii

The Big Island is the largest of the Hawaiian Islands. Its rugged and lush terrain is home to idyllic nature, volcanic landscapes, cultural sights and all around island vibes. Blackened lava fields grow from active volcanoes while waterfalls spill over lush cliffs. Manta rays, dolphins, sea turtles and colorful reef fish swim offshore. Coastal cities like Kona and Hilo are tourist hubs while inland towns like Pāhoa and Honomu provide a local atmosphere. Tiki bars serve tropical cocktails and pupus, cafes brew Kona coffee and farmers markets selling locally grown produce. Cultural sights including petroglyph parks and royal grounds highlight Hawaiian heritage. 

Volcanoes National Park 

The Big Island is famed for the Volcanoes National Park. A park encompassing a sprawling region of the island stretching from sea level on the South Coast to the summit of the Mauna Loa Volcano. The park is home to active volcanos, hardened lava fields and flows, craters, lava tubes, steam vents, scenic overlooks, hiking trails, sea arches and Hawaiian petroglyphs. We spent an entire day in the park exploring sights along the Crater Rim Drive and Chain of Craters Road. There is a vehicle fee to enter the park. The park is open 24 hours a day. 

Crater Rim Drive

A road partly circling the Kilauea Crater with active volcanos, crater overlooks, steam vents, lava tubes and trails. The drive starts at the Kilauea Visitor Center. 

Sulphur Banks.  Steam vents with yellow sulphur deposits. It’s reachable from the visitor center after a half mile hike. 

Halema‘uma‘u Trail.  A 1.8 mile trail leading through the forest to Kilauea's blackened lava field. It’s located just past the visitor center to the left. 

Byron Ledge Trail.  A 1.1 mile trail leading from the end of the Halema‘uma‘u Trail. It crosses through the lava field, up the crater rim and into the forest. 

Steaming Bluff.  A crater ridge where steam rises from volcanic vents with views of the Kīlauea caldera. It’s located 1 mile last the visitor center to the left. 

Kilauea Volcano.  A volcano that has been frequently erupting since 1983. Hawaiian’s call this the Home of Pele, the Lava Goddess. It erupted and created a lava lake weeks before we visited. 

Kilauea Overlook.  One of the best locations to overlook the Kīlauea Caldera. Steam is visible during the day and the glow of lava at night, if erupting. If not, the stars look incredible from here on a clear evening. It’s located 2.3 miles past the visitor center to the left. 

Kilauea Iki Overlook.  An overlook with sweeping views into the Kīlauea Iki Crater’s hardened lava lake. 

Kilauea Iki Crater.  A volcanic crater next to Kilauea. A 4 mile hike descends down the crater rim to the crater floor. Start at the Kilauea Iki Trailhead hiking along counter clockwise. 

Thurston Lava Tube.  An ancient lava tube in a tropical fern forest. A trail leads hundreds of feet inside. It’s open 24 hours a day however its amber hued lights are only on from 8am - 8pm. The lava tube is accessible after a 5 minute walk from the Kīlauea Iki parking lot. 

Chain of Craters Road

A scenic road passing many volcanic craters, lava flows and trails leading to the coast. It starts near the Devastation Trail parking lot and ends where a lava flow overtook the road. 

Luamanu Crater.  The first crater on the right with a roadside lookout of it and the hardened lava flow. 

Puhimau Crater.  The second crater on the left with a roadside lookout. Come here to yell into it for the echo. 

Ko’oko’olau Crater.  A small overgrown crater on the right with a trail leading to a hardened lava flow. 

Hiiaka Crater.  A large overgrown crater on the left with a hardened lava flow from 1973. 

Mauna Ulu Eruption Trail.  A volcano trail at the end of a road with hardened lava covering it. It leads into the lava field with a lookout viewing the cinder cone created by the eruption. 

Keauhou Trail.  A 6.8 mile backcountry trail crossing the lava field towards the coast and other trails. Follow the lava rock piles to keep on the trails. 

Pu‘u Loa Petroglyphs.   An archeological area with thousands of petroglyphs carved into the hardened lava by ancient Hawaiians. The petroglyphs include human figures, dotted designs and circular formations. The area is surrounded by a boardwalk and accessible along the 1.4 mile Puna Coast Trail.

Kealakomo.   An observation deck and picnic area with views of the hardened lava fields, cinder cones and coast. 

Hōlei Sea Arch.  A 90ft high volcanic rock arch along the seaside cliffs at the end of the Chain of Craters Road. 

Kailua Kona 

A beach town on the Leeward side of the island with historic sights, seafood restaurants, tiki bars, Kona coffee farms and souvenir shops. The area has many nearby beaches and bays perfect for swimming, surfing, snorkeling and marine excursions. It’s a popular spot for tourists, though most stay at their resorts north and south of Kona. 

Hawaiian Cultural Sites

Pu’uhonua o Honaunau National Park.  The location of the former Hawaiian royal grounds. The archeological park includes reconstructed canoe houses and carved statues, original stone foundations, lava rock walls, a cemetery, fish ponds, palm groves and trails.

Pu’uhonua o Honaunau National Park Trails

• Pu’uhonua Trail.  The trail leading through the royal grounds and sights.

• Coastal Trail.  A trail leading from the visitor center to a coastal picnic area, past areological ruins and to the 1871 Trail.

• 1871 Trail.  A trail leading from the visitor center past many archeological sights and coastal rock formations. Sights include the abandoned and overgrown Kiʻilae Village, stone walls, temple ruins, sport ramps, cliffs and a lava tube.  

KamakahonuNational Monument.  The reconstructed home of Kamehameha The Great, one of Hawaii’s most powerful kings. The monument is located on a small peninsula at Kamakahonu Beach. 

Hulihe‘e Palace.  A royal summer house used by Hawaii’s royalty during the 17th Century. It’s now a museum with Hawaiian artifacts. 

Surfing & Beaches

Old Airport Beach.  A long white sand and palm lined beach along Kona’s old airport runway. The water is not safe for swimming due to shallow coral reefs. It’s a popular spot for surf lessons. I took a private lesson here with Kona Town Surf Adventures. 

Kamakahonu Beach.  A small white sand beach in downtown Kona for swimming, snorkeling and kayaking. Kona Boys Beach Shack rents hourly and daily equipment. There’s also a beach bar at the hotel.

Magic Sands Beach.  A small white sand beach popular for watching the sunset, body surfing and boogie boarding in the waves. 

Snorkeling & Sailing 

The Big Island is a home to an array of scenic coastal sights and underwater marine life. We booked two snorkeling trips with Sea Paradise on their large ocean catamaran.

Kona Snorkel Tour.  A leisurely half day sailing tour along the Kona coast with snorkeling stops in two bays. The tour included snorkeling gear, lunch and cocktails for purchase. The friendly crew pointed out important Hawaiian sights and kept us entertained with their sea themed Disney playlist. 

• Keawekāheka Bay.  A bay with deep blue water, coral reefs and schools of fish. 

• Kealakekua Bay.  A bay near the Captain Cook Monument with an area of healthy and recovering coral reefs home to many species of fish. Spotted spinner dolphins swim through the bay in pods and jumping above the surface in their emblematic spinning motion. 

Manta Ray Night Snorkel.  A nighttime snorkel tour to watch manta rays feed on plankton. Fitted with wetsuits and snorkels, we held onto an illuminated platform face down in the water. As we watched, swarms of plankton drawn to the light attracted the attention of 3 manta rays. They began gracefully swooping up to feed on the plankton, gradually getting closer to the surface. After about 30 minutes, the gentle giants swooped upwards within inches of our faces, showing off their impressive 10ft wingspans. It was possibly one of the most unbelievable experiences to witness. 

Pro Tip.  Don’t try taking photos, just be present and enjoy the moment. Photo credit courtesy of Sea Paradise. 

Kona Coffee

Coffee is easily grown on the lush volcanic slopes in the Kona region. There are hundreds of coffee producing farms here, offering tours and tastings throughout the week. We toured Hala Tree Coffee Farm, learned about Kona coffee, the growing, harvesting and the roasting process, then tasted multiple brews. 

Places to Eat & Drink in Kona

Kona Brewing Company.  The famous Hawaiian brewery known for its Big Wave Golden Ale and Longboard Lager. Come here to enjoy brews only served at their tap room and restaurant. We sampled two flights from their “Backyard Batch” and “Pints of Paradise” menus along with a Hawaiian pizza baked with pineapple and bbq sauce. 

Huggo’s.  A long running romantic seaside restaurant overlooking the Kailua Bay with tiki torches and live music. The menu features Hawaiian dishes like garlic shrimp, seared sesame tuna and macadamia nut encrusted ono. The mixologists serve class tiki cocktails and tropical concoctions. One item not to be missed is their coconut cake!

Huggo’s on the Rocks.  A bar next door to Huggo’s with a pupus menu, tiki drinks and live music.

Cheeky Tiki Kona.  A waterfront tiki bar with a second floor dining room overlooking Kailua Bay. The menu has over two dozen cocktails served in tiki mugs, bowls and fresh pineapples. The cocktails are noted by strength. Try the Zombie, Mai Tai, Painkiller or Scorpion Bowl. The pupus menu has sharables like mac nut shrimp, ahi tuna poke, kimchi fried rice and fish tacos. Order the off menu fish collar. 

Magics Beach Grill.  An oceanfront restaurant next to Magics Beach with a seafood specialties and tropical cocktails. Try the poke nachos made with raw tuna and wonton chips, the seared tuna steak, kimchi fried rice and mai tais. 

HiCO Coffee.  A coffee shop brewing local kona coffee. Try some local flavors like ube latte and crab musubi. 

The City of Hilo 

Hilo is the largest city on the Big Island and lesser traveled to by tourists. It has a local feel and a historic center with an artistic and bohemian edge. It’s a central location for shopping at markets and boutiques or dining at a range of cafes, restaurants and bars. 

Kamehameha Ave.  The road along the bay with painted wooden and Art Deco buildings home to various shops selling surf supplies, ukuleles, clothing, jewelry and souvenirs.

Kamehameha The Great Statue.  A gold and black statue of the Hawaiian king dedicated to his life and legacy.

Keawe St.  A street with murals, restaurants, bars, antique shops and resale stores. 

• PineapplesIsland Fresh Cuisine.  A restaurant with Hawaiian dishes like coconut & panko encrusted ono, furikake seasoned shrimp and cocktails served in pineapples. There’s live music from Thursday to Sunday. 

• Booch Bar.  Come here for the house brewed Kombucha, kombucha cocktails and vegan dishes. Try the tempeh reuben and tempeh BLT.

• Puna Chocolate.  A chocolate shop and cafe specializing in locally grown chocolates, macadamia nuts, coffee and dried fruit.

Friday Night Market.  A popular Friday Night market on Keawe St. with live music, food trucks and vendors selling locally made snacks, jewelry, clothes and artwork. Visit during Black & White Night, held during the first Friday Night Market of the month. Locals dress in black and white as a low key nod to a black tie event. 

Rainbow Falls.  An 80ft tall waterfall over a hardened lava cave. A rainbow can be seen in the mist above the falls in the early morning as the sun is rising. In Hawaiian lore, the cave was the home of the demigod Maui’s mother.

The Town of Pāhoa

A small town with hippie vibes, colorful wooden buildings and an old boardwalk with restaurants, craft stores and galleries. It’s located nearby public black sand beaches and hardened lava fields. The town is 30 minutes south of Hilo. Many hitchhikers and skateboarders congregate around here. 

Places to Eat & Drink in Pāhoa

Pele's Kitchen.  A heath foods cafe with a colorful painted interior, tropical fruit platters, pancakes, omelettes & vegan dishes. Come here for breakfast. 

Bananarama Bakery.  A bakery with pastries and breads. Try the macadamia nut banana bread. 

Puna Kai Shopping Center.  A new shopping center in Pāhoa with restaurants, cafes, shops, a grocery store and bi-weekly markets and events.

Kohoa Coffee.  A coffee shop in the Puna Kai Shopping Center with a drive-through window. 

Coco Cantina.  A Mexican and tropical fusion restaurant. Try the coconut shrimp, ono ceviche and road to Pāhoa cocktail (essentially a rum punch). 

Black Sand Beaches 

Pohoiki Back Sand Beach.  The island’s newest black sand beach formed during the 2018 eruption. The beach has a mixture of soft sand, tumbled lava rocks and large boulders. The stong currents and large waves make it unsafe for swimming. There are volcanic springs called “hot pots” along the tree line. 

Kehena Black Sand Beach.  A nude beach hidden below a roadside cliff with soft black sand. The stong currents and large waves make it unsafe for swimming. Vendors selling crepes and fresh coconuts set up nearby the parking lot above the cliff. 

The Town of Honomu 

A small town with a colorful western vibe, old wooden buildings and a boardwalk. The main street is home to bakeries, antique shops, a church and abandoned buildings. It’s located 20 minutes north of Hilo nearby Akaka Falls and Hawaii Zip-lines. 

Akaka Falls.  A 442ft tall waterfall spilling down the center of a mossy cliff within the lush tropical forest. It’s accessible by a paved trail that loops through the forest with an overlook. There is a fee to enter the trail and to park in the parking lot. 

Mana’s Aloha Farms.  A farm stand minutes away from Akaka Falls with fresh coconuts, pineapples and sugarcane.

Mr Ed’s Bakery.  A bakery with pastries, toasts, coffee and poi bowls. Try the Guava Bearclaw and Ensemada.

Hawaii Zip-line Tours.  A scenic zip-line course with 7 lines through farmland, across ravines and over waterfalls. Our favorite zip-lines went through a row of banana trees and over a half mile across a ravine with views of Kolekole Falls, a 250ft waterfall. We even got to sample freshly picked bananas. Reserve Online. 

Kaʻū, The South Coast

Kaʻū is a mostly rural and remote area of the island with rugged terrain, farmland and beaches. We visited two beaches along the South Coast during our drive from Pāhoa to Kona. 

Punaluʻu Black Sand Beach.  One of the most famous black sand beaches in Hawaii with a jet black shore, palm trees and nesting sea turtles. It’s safe for swimming and snorkeling with life guards. There is a beach kiosk selling t-shirts, sunblock and freshly harvested coconuts. 

Papakolea Beach (Mahana Beach).  A remote green sand beach located in a cliffside bay. The beach gets its green tint from tiny sand-like crystals known as olivines. The deep blue water is rough but swimmable. We even spotted a sea turtle. To get here, park uphill from the Kaulana Boat Ramp at the end of South Point Road. From here we hiked 3 miles through dry grassland and sandy trenches carved by trucks and ATVs. Alternatively, locals with pickup trucks offer roundtrip transit to the beach for $20. 

Southernmost Point.  The southernmost point in Hawaii with steep cliffs and sunset views overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Come here for sunsets!

Kohala, The North Coast

Kohala is a remote region of the island’s North Coast defined by its verdant landscapes, desert-like terrain, pristine beaches and farmland. The best way to experience it is on a Helicopter Tour!

Helicopter Tour. We toured the most remote stretches of Kohala region by helicopter. Starting in Kona, we flew north over hardened lava flows, cinder cones, volcanic craters, collapsed lava tubes and gulches. From above, turquoise bays, green golf courses & seaside communities stood out from the dry arid landscape and cattle ranches.

As we flew further north, the landscape and climate transitioned. It became cloudy, rainy and lush. We even saw a full circle rainbow! We flew into picturesque valleys covered in dense greenery, with trickling waterfalls and black sand beaches. The North Shore coastline is characterized by sheer cliffs, rocky outcrops, crashing waves and white caps. Helicopter tours range from regional flights to full island tours. We booked with Paradise Helicopters. 

Pauko Petroglyph Park.  An archeological park with over 3,000 petroglyphs carved into lava rock dating back 800 years. From the parking lot, a rocky trail leads through overgrown bush past various petroglyphs, a small cave and ends at a loop around a large lava flow covered in two dimensional human figures. The carved figures range is size, groupings and poses. 

Kaunaʻoa (Mauna Kea) Beach.  A crescent shaped beach with pale white sand and calm aquamarine water at the Mauna Kea Resort. We spent a half day here sun bathing, swimming and snorkeling. The reef is located near the rocks along the south end of the beach. Sadly the coral isn’t very healthy. We later enjoyed a few cocktails at the beach bar at the resort on the north end of the beach. The resort rents umbrellas, lounges, kayaks, stand up paddles and surf boards. Parking is free but limited to 40 cars per day. Arrive before 8am to get a spot. 

Seafood Bar and Grill.  A tiki style bar & restaurant with a Hawaiian seafood dishes and a tropical cocktail menu. Try the furikake calamari, the pineapple mac-nut slaw, grilled fish sandwich and mai tai. 

Big Island Farmers Markets

The Big Island is home to dozens of farmers markets held throughout the week. All of which have vendors selling a range of local produce, homemade goods, products and tasty meals. 

Hilo Farmers Market.  A daily farmers market with sheds of vendors selling tropical fruits, vegetables, mushrooms, flowers, plants, clothing, jewelry and souvenirs. There are two cafes with coffee, shaved ice, smoothies, acai fruit bowls and poke. The market is loocated in downtown Hilo. 

Maku'u Farmers Market.  A Sunday morning farmers market with up to 150 tents and vendors selling locally grown produce and goods like preserves, cheese, honey, vanilla, coffee, macadamia nuts, fresh caught fish, coconut milk and juices. Cooks sell sweet & savory baked goods, fried snacks & full meals, poke and shaved ice. Located between Pāhoa and Hilo. 

Ho'oulu Farmers Market.  A craft and farmers market with vendors selling locally grown produce and items made from local materials like soaps, candles, jewelry, artwork and souvenirs. It’s located South of Kona outside of the Outrigger Kona Resort. The market operates on Wednesday and Friday between 9am - 2pm.

Hawaiian Cuisine

The flavors of the Hawaiian islands are as enticing as the sights. While here, we feasted on pacific seafood, tropical fruits and tiki cocktails.

• Poke.  A seafood dish made with pieces of raw tuna on a bed of rice and covered in a thick umami sauce.

• Pupus. A Hawaiian appetizer or small plate. Most restaurants have a menu of them to choose from. Order them solo before a meal or several of them tapas style as the meal. 

• Ono (Wahoo). A local white fish and a favorite at restaurants across the Big Island. It has a delicious taste, dense texture and flaky meat. It’s commonly served grilled or coconut encrusted. 

• Ube.  Purple sweet potato. It’s often served mashed as a side or in sweet deserts. 

• Musubi.  A rice patty with glazed spam (vegan or traditional) wrapped in seaweed and garnished in Furikake.

• Furikake.  A widely used seasoning made from seaweed, dried fish flakes, sesame seeds, salt and sugar. It’s garnished on snack mixes and savory dishes. 

• Banana Bread.  Commonly baked with macadamia nuts, sold at farmers markets, bakeries and cafes.

• Tropical Fruit.  Pineapple, papaya, mango, starfruit, banana, lychee, passion fruit, guava & rambutan are all commonly grown and sold at farmers markets across the island. 

• Shaved Ice.  Seen at food trucks, farmers markets and cafes. This popular treat is served all day long. Try the tropical favors like coconut, pineapple or guava. 

• Mai Tais.  A tropical cocktail on nearly every drink menu in Hawaii made with rum, lime and orgeat syrup. 

• Kona Coffee.  Coffee made from beans grown specifically within the Kona region. 

Places to Stay

We spent over a week on The Big Island, splitting our time equally between Hilo in the east and Kona in the west. 

Lava Sanctuary.  Surrounded by hardened lava flows and craggily black rock sat a wooden tiny house with a corrugated tin roof. It was our home for the first half of our trip on The Big Island. The remote stay was located in Kalapana Gardens, a small off-the-grid community about 45 minutes south of Hilo. The house was part of a Lava Sanctuary with two tiny homes and a meditation center. It was comfortable and spacious stay with a lofted bed, small deck and wide windows overlooking the lava field. Book on Airbnb. 

Kona “Tree House”.  Surrounded by lush trees above a converted garage was our home for the second half of our trip. The “Tree House” was Hawaiian style with a warm wooden exterior, bamboo ceilings and a floral patterned furniture. From the windows and balcony we could look upon the twisting limbs and green canopy of the trees. It had a cozy feeling of being in nature while being close to central Kona. Book on Airbnb.

Location Specifics 

Hawaiian Culture.  Be respectful of the island and Hawaiian culture. 

Hiking Trails.  Follow trails markers and signs while hiking.

Sea Turtles.  Do not approach or touch any sea turtles. 

Lava Rocks.  Do not take lava rocks from the island.

Coral Reefs.  Only wear reef safe sunblock when going in the water.

Produce.  You cannot take any produce back to the mainland. 

Getting Around

By Air. There are two main airports, one in Hilo and another in Kona.

By Car.  The most efficient way to explore The Big Island is by renting a car at one of the airports. 

Coastal Roads.  Wrap around most of the island, except remote areas of the North Shore.

The Saddle Road.‍ ‍A scenic road crossing the center of the island between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa Volcanos.

For Next Time… 

Mauna Kea Volcano.  Visit the summit and astronomical observatories of the Big Island’s tallest volcano. 

Island Hopping.  Visit other islands in the Hawaiian archipelago including Maui and Kauai. 

Marseille, France

France’s Second City

Marseille, France’s Second City, has a certain “je ne sais quoi” to its beauty, grittiness and old world charm. The city streets are lined with historic buildings and graffitied alleys while its seaside is defined by Mediterranean blues, rugged cliffs and fishing boats.

Mediterranean Influences  

Marseille is a historic port city located along the Mediterranean Coast. It was founded over 2,600 years ago and is one of the oldest surviving cities in Europe. Throughout the ages, it has been a hub for goods including seafood, olives and grapes as well as transportation and immigration. Today, many North African immigrants call the city home and have integrated their own cultures into the French city. 

MuCEM (Museum of Civilizations of Europe and the Mediterranean).  The MuCEM is Marseille’s historic and cultural museum. It explores the civilization and anthropology of the European and nomadic people in the Mediterranean and Marseille’s importance both historically and in the present day. The museum displays various artifacts, painting, maps and contains permanent and temporary exhibits. The museum itself is a piece of art with a black filigreed concrete skin covering the building. The museum’s rooftop and cafe is a nice spot to relax in the shade provided by the unique shadows of the structure while overlooking the city’s historic port. Contrasting the museum is a pedestrian bridge connecting it to the medieval ruins of Fort St Jean. 

Explore the Neighborhoods

Vieux Port.  Easily the most recognizable feature of Marseille, this harbor in the city center is lined with hundreds of sailing and fishing boats. The surrounding buildings are home to many seafood restaurants serving the catch of the day and the iconic fish stew, bouillabaisse. Midway through the view port is a small ferry that connects both sides of the harbor departing every 15 minutes. 

Le Panier.  The historic quarter of Marseille with stepped sidewalks, narrow streets and lots of plants. It’s a quiet neighborhood a few blocks away from the Vieux Port with small shops, artist studios, graffiti and colorful murals. Walk down, Rue de Panier, a photogenic street with numerous boutiques and shops.

Cours Julien.  An artistic and grungy neighborhood recognizable by its graffitied buildings and iconic steps. Its streets are home to boutiques, vintage shops, cafes, bistros, bars and the Cours Julien Farmer’s Market. 

Cours Julien Farmer’s Market.  A small but bustling market is held every Wednesday morning in the plaza next to the Notre-Dame du Mont subway station. Locals purchase their weekly groceries as animated vendors shout from behind tables and musicians offer live performances. Vendor sell everything from meat, seafood, cheese, honey, jams, wine, fruits, produce, herbs, bread, flowers and soaps 

Good to Know.  Bring cash for making purchases. Bread is sold by the loaf or by weight.

Have a Picnic 

Fresh from the Cours Julien Farmer’s Market, we sat down on the lawn of the Jardins du Pharo for an afternoon picnic. We shared a half watermelon, bunch of grapes, custard tart, jammed cookie, stinky and herbal cheeses, bread and French wine. 

See the Sights

Fort Saint Jean. A medieval fort located near the entrance of the view port across from the MuCEM. We explored its stone ruins, lush gardens and took in its views of the harbor.

Eglise Saint Laurent.  A simple stone church built during the 12th century. It is a good example of other Mediterranean influences with its North African style bell tower and symmetrical Greek character. 

Cathédrale La Major.  A Byzantine style cathedral with a black and white striped stone facade, multiple domed bell towers, soaring arches and Christian symbols.

Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde Viewpoint.  A basilica located at the highest point in the city with panoramic views of Marseille and the coast. The cathedral and candle lit chapels below the sacristy are eerie but beautiful.

Palais & Jardins du Pharo.  A Neoclassical palace built for Napoleon on a green hillside overlooking The Mediterranean and the Vieux Port. Come here to picnic on the lawn or in the sculpture garden. 

Maison Empereur.  A 200 year old kitchenware and hardware store. Walking in the foot steps of Julia Child, we easily spent an hour exploring the two floors of interconnected rooms and packed aisles of copper cookware, kitchen gadgets and tall wooden displays.

The Calanques National Park 

The Calanques are home to costal rock formations, smalls islands and white limestone cliffs set against the deep blue Mediterranean Sea. They make up a national park stretching from Marseille towards Cassis. It’s is a rugged place to hike, explore ruins and find a beach to relax at with turquoise water swim in. 

Calanque de Sugiton Trail.  A coastal trail in The Calanques National Park leading to a hidden beach. The trail meanders along a series of limestone cliffs speckled with lush trees and green bushes, offering picturesque views of the Mediterranean Sea and dreamy wooden sailboats moored offshore.

Calanque de Sugiton Beach.  A narrow bay with a pebbly beach nestled between two cliffs. Come here to lounge onshore, swim through the shades of deep blue and turquoise water and cliff ump from rocky islands into the bay.

Getting Here.  The Calanques National Park is located about 40 minutes by car from the Vieux Port of Marseille. Drive and park at the Cité Universitaire Luminy. From here, forested roads and trails lead deeper into The Calanques National Park.  

Good to Know.  There is no specific route to reach Sugiton Beach. Use this Map Pin to locate the Sugiton Trail Head andthis Map Pin to locate the Sugiton Beach. Follow the meandering trails in-between, planning to hike anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour. 

Îles du Frioul.  An archipelago off the coast of Marseille comprised of four islands and jagged rock formations.

• Île Ratonneau.  The most developed island with a small town and sail boat dotted marina. Hiking trails lead across its dry and aired terrain to abandoned military structures, panoramic viewpoints and beaches.

• Fort de Ratonneau.  The ruins of a hilltop military fortress with panoramic views of The Calanques, Mediterranean and Marseille. 

• Plage de Saint-Estève.  A beautiful beach with a large turquoise cove and swimmable waters. Its an ideal spot to cool off and relax after hiking across the island. 

• Chateau de If.  A rocky island with a 16th century fort, later transformed into a prison. It’s said to have inspired Alexandre Dumas, The Count of Monte Cristo. We didn’t have time to visit the island but were able to admire it from the ferry and neighboring island. 

Getting Here.  Îles du Frioul and Chateau de If are both reachable by ferry from the Vieux Port in Marseille, making for the perfect day trip. Le Bateau offers daily transfers and tours. Tickets can be purchased from the pier near the MuCEM or online. 

Cuisine a la Marseillaise

The cuisine in Marseille is influenced by Provincial and Mediterranean ingredients resulting in a unique palette of flavors. Being a port city, it is especially known for its seafood.

Bouillabaisse.  A seafood stew typically made with the daily catch including a mixture of whole of filleted white fish, shellfish and shrimp. The seafood is prepared in a broth seasoned with saffron, tomato and other ingredients.

Moules Marinières. Steamed mussels cooked in a sauce made from white wine, butter, garlic, parsley and shallots. It’s typically served with frites, sliced baguette and house made mayonnaise.

Ratatouille.  A Provincial vegetable dish is made from a stewed or roasted combination of eggplant, zucchini, yellow squash and tomato. 

Tapenade. An olive, garlic, caper and anchovy spread. We often enjoyed it on croissant or baguette. 

Pizza. A popular flatbread made with Mediterranean toppings like olives, anchovies and tomato.

Apple Tarte Tatin.  A classic French dessert with apple caramelized in butter and sugar on a bed of flaky puff pastry.

Crepes Sucre.  A sweet crepe often folded and sprinkled in sugar with a side of orange marmalade.

Meringue.  One of the classic French patisserie we saw all over the city! Egg whites whipped with sugar and baked into sweet delicate cookies. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Au Doyen. A seafood restaurant where we ate our first meal in France, moules marinières with frites and rosé. 

Le Miramar.  One of the higher end restaurants along the Vieux Port specializing in Bouillabaisse. In true French style, it prides itself on its preparation, presentation and authenticity. Read more about their recipe here. 

Les Arcenaulx.  An elegant restaurant inside of the library styled dining room with stone walls, timber beams and a large wine selection 

La Crêpe au Carré. A creperie offering sweet and savory crepes. Try the buttery and sugary Crepes Sucre. 

Cafe de Arts.  A casual bistro facing the Vieux Port. Stop in for a pint of French beer and a late afternoon bite.

Boulangerie Gambetta.  A tiny bakery with sandwiches, pastries and bread. It’s a great place to buy a sandwich to takeaway in route to The Calanques.

Where to Stay

La Pension Edelweiss.  A bed and breakfast near the city center. From the outside, it looks like any other stone building with slim balconies and iron railings adorned with tiny planters. Once within, the interior feels uniquely French with a grand wooden staircase, high ceilings and large rooms all decorated in antique objects, mid-century furnishing and artwork. Make reservations online. 

Breakfast.  Each morning, the hotelier covered the dining table with a delicious spread of baguettes, croissants, hard boiled eggs, meats, cheeses, preserves, butter, tapenade, fresh coffee and orange juice. It was the most pleasant way to start the day and chat with other guests. 

Flowers.  We bought a bouquet of freshly cut sunflowers and displayed them in the empty wine bottles on the fireplace mantle in our hotel room.

Location Specifics 

Safety.  Marseille can be a little dodgy at times due to drug trafficking. The city center and Vieux Port are generally safe. Be mindful of your surroundings, especially later in the evenings. 

Airport Shuttle.  There is a regularly scheduled shuttle between the airport and St Charles Station central in Marseille. Tickets can be purchased from the office at both locations. 

Getting Around.  While Marseille is a large city, the city center and surrounding neighborhoods are easily walkable. 

Cash vs Credit.  Credit card is widely accepted across Marseille though carrying a small amount of cash is important for small transactions. 

Language.  French is the primary language in Marseille. Few people speak English or any other languages. Download Google Translate to help with conversations and interactions. 

French Wine.  It’s no surprise that you’ll find good wine just about anywhere in France. Most grocery stores have a sommelier on staff that will recommend a bottle based on how you plan to drink it. Even better, a nice bottle typically costs just a few Euros. 

Provincial Soaps.  Marseille is famous for its provincial soaps scented with local flowers, the most popular being lavender. They’re sold by the bottle in liquid form and in bars. 

For Next Time… 

We fell in love with this French city, even after only spending a few days here. When we return, we want to continue exploring the Marseille and venture out into the region including the countryside of Provence and the cities of Nice and Montpellier. 

Paris, France

Paris, The City of Love

Paris, the City of Love, is an enchanting place! Cafes and bistros spill onto the sidewalks of cobblestone streets and grand avenues. The scent of fresh bread wafts from boulangeries as colorful patisseries fill shop windows. Lively markets are brimming with with everything from local produce to antiques and books. Historic monuments and world renowned museums celebrate French culture, arts and history. The River Seine gracefully meanders between Arrondissements while the Eiffel Tower stands prominently above it all. Paris holds a special place in our hearts as the city where we got engaged on our first visit. One phrase we can’t say enough is "Je t'aime Paris.” 

Our Engagement

On our first night in Paris, we dined at Les Ombres, overlooking the Eiffel Tower, beginning with wine on the terrace. As the sun set and a full moon rose, the tower suddenly began to sparkle, drawing us back outside where we stood alone, taking in the view. In that quiet, magical moment, Devin reflected on our life together before pulling out a small box containing a grape soda pin from Pixar’s Up and a delicate white gold ring and asked me to marry him. Through happy tears, I said yes as he slipped the ring onto my finger and pinned the badge to my lapel. We celebrated with champagne and dessert, then strolled to the Eiffel Tower, eventually ascending to the top where we admired Paris glowing around us. Toasting with sparkling rosé at the summit, newly engaged and overlooking the city, felt like a perfect and unforgettable fairy tale.

An Parisian Photoshoot 

On a separate trip to Paris, we hired a photographer to capture our love for each other and the city. We met as the sun lifted above the horizon, posing for photos against the backdrop of the Eiffel Tower on cobblestone streets, the riverfront and its bridges. The golden sunrise, amber toned leaves and freshly repainted bronze structure made for a romantic autumn activity. Book a 1 Hour Couples Session with Sofiane on Airbnb.

Montmartre

Montmartre is a neighborhood that embodies Parisian charm. Its picturesque streets are paved in cobble stones, lined with historic buildings and ivy covered homes. Its lively bistros flow out onto the sidewalks while pastry shops lure in passersby for a sweet. As the day turns to night, its bars stay open late serving French wines and cocktails while the cabarets put on performances and shows. French artists including Van Gogh, Degas and Toulouse Lautrec once lived here while modern day artists continue to call it home. 

Basilica of Sacre-Coeur.  A Byzantine style basilica with a large white dome located on the hill in the center of Montmartre. It’s a symbol of the neighborhood and city. The prayer hall can be freely entered when open while the dome is can be visited for a fee. A series of spiral staircases and outdoor walkways lead along the roof to the interior of the dome with panoramic views of Paris.

Rue Lepic.  A winding cobblestone street on a steep incline with patisseries, chocolate shops, florists, fromageries, a seafood market, cafes, wine bars, many bistros and residences. It’s most notable sight is the Moulin Radet, one of two historic windmills remaining in Montmartre. 

Boulevard de Clichy.  A tree lined boulevard with a pedestrian walkway at its center. Both sides of the boulevard are lined with bars, restaurants, sex shops and cabernets including the Moulin Rouge, the famous venue with a red windmill. 

Place du Tertre.  A bustling plaza known for its artists and bistros. It’s surrounded by restaurants that spill onto the sidewalk and into the center of the plaza. Artists sell Parisian themed art, brush colorful stokes across canvases and draw portraits of patient customers. Wafts of cigarette smoke, the smell of butter and music from accordion players fill the air.

Rue de Martyrs.  A lengthy market street with hundreds of bistros, cafes, boutiques, boulangeries, fromageries, patisseries and markets selling meats, seafoods, fruits, vegetables, coffee and chocolates.

Staircases of Montmartre.  Montmartre is known as the “neighborhood on the hill” and the highest natural point in Paris. Many tall staircases with unique vantage points cut through the neighborhood making it easy, though at times tiring, to get around on foot.

Rue de l’Abreuvoir.  One of the most picturesque streets in Paris with ivy covered houses, colorful buildings and a view overlooking Sacré-Coeur.

Rue de Abbesses.  A street lined with restaurants, coffee shops, boulangeries and boutiques ending at a plaza with a carousel and cathedral.

I Love You Wall.  A blue tiled wall with “I love you” written in hundreds of languages.

Clos Montmartre.  A small hillside vineyard and the last remaining one in Paris. It produces about 1,000 bottles of wine a year.

Fête de Vendanges (Wine Harvest Festival).  The yearly wine harvest festival held every October in Montmartre around the steps leading up to the Basilica of Sacre-Coeur. The multi day festival features dozens of wine makers from regions all over France including Clos Montmartre. Order by the glass at different tents or do as locals do and buy a bottle to share. In addition to wine makers, there are food stalls, performers, a parade and fireworks. The festival is free to enter.

Arrondissements & Neighborhoods 

Including Montmartre, Paris is broken up into 20 Arrondissements (Arr.) Starting in the center of the city and spiraling out like a snail shell. Different neighborhoods correspond to and overlap multiple Arrondissements.

Le Marais.  Located in the 4th Arr. This is oldest Parisian neighborhood and the center of the LGBTQ+ community. Known for its cobblestone streets, stately architecture, courtyards, cafes, cocktail bars and vintage shopping.

Latin Quarter.  Located in the 5th Arr. A university neighborhood, this area of Paris is popular for its bars, cabarets and distance from large tourist attractions.

Saint Germain des Pres.  Located in the 6th Arr. This neighborhood is home to many bookshops, galleries, cafes and design shops.

10th Arrondissement.  A quiet neighborhood lining the Canal Saint Martin with plenty restaurants to eat at and street art to spot. We stayed here in an Airbnb that was once a bakery operated by nuns. 

2nd Arrondissement.  Known for its arcades, boutiques, fine dining and cocktail bars. The neighborhood is worth wandering and getting lost in.

Visit the Sights

The Eiffel Tower.  You can’t visit Paris without seeing to the Eiffel Tower. It’s the symbol of the city and one of the most recognizable sights in the world. The tower has three levels. The first two are accessible by stair and elevator. Take the elevator up and the stairs down, making for a leisurely and twisting descent through one of the tower’s legs. Both floors have incredible views of the inner structure and iron lattices of the tower as well as a number of restaurants, shops and a Macaron Bar. The tiniest elevator leads to the third level at the top of the tower and highest point in Paris. The nighttime views are absolutely stunning! Every amber glowing light and illuminated landmark in Paris twinkles. The top floor is home to Gustave Eiffel’s Laboratory and a Champagne Bar serving flutes of sparkling rosé. Reserve tickets online for a specific time slot at least two weeks in advance.

Picnic in Champ de Mars.  A large park in front of the Eiffel Tower and perfect spot for picnicking. Bring a blanket and assortment of provisions like French bread, cheeses, fruits and wine. Accordion players serenade couples while vendors sell roses, champagne and statuettes of the Eiffel Tower.

Pro Tip.  Picnic during the daytime. Many rats scamper through the park at night, distracting from the romantic allure and atmosphere. 

Sainte Chapelle.  A highly ornamented gothic chapel dating back to the middle of the 13th century. It’s rebounded for its massive purple hued stained glass windows, gold leafed arches, vaulted ceilings and stone facade. Book tickets online at least two weeks before visiting. 

Arc de Triomphe.   A magnificent arc and Napoleonic era war monument on the Champs-Élysées. It features four pillars, each marked by sculpted statues and reliefs of France’s military victories. A 284 step spiral staircase ascends to a museum and rooftop with panoramic views of Paris and the city’s spoke-like avenues. 

The Catacombs.  A macabre labyrinth of subterranean tunnels are home to the skeletal remains of over 7 million people. It’s truly an underworld of the dead. Its dimly lit and damp passageways are lined with layers of stacked femurs and skulls holding back smaller bones. The skulls, some artfully arranged into patterns like hearts and crosses, seemed to watch us as we wandered through. The catacombs wind hundreds of kilometers below Paris with just more than 1 kilometer open to visitors. Book online at least one week out at the Official Ticket Office. An audio guide is included with the ticket.

See Some Art

With a rich culture surrounding art and artists, Paris is the best place in the world to learn about art history and see some of the world’s masterpieces. 

Musee de’ L'Orangerie.   An Impressionist art museum built specifically to display a large collection of Monet’s Water Lilies and other impressionist paintings. 

The Louvre Pyramid.  A glass pyramid residing in the plaza of The Louvre, the world’s most famous art museum. We plan to explore its vast galleries on a future trip to Paris.

Centre Pompidou.   A contemporary art museum built “inside out” with all the building’s equipment, escalators and corridors exposed leaving more room for gallery space inside. The museum has since closed and is planned to reopen in 2030 after renovations. 

Stravinsky Fountain.  A landmark fountain across from the Centre Pompidou with a series colorful sculptures spraying water into the pool below. The fountain itself is surrounded by a series of large murals. 

Things To Do

Visit an Arcade.  The arcades of Paris are covered passageways defined by their ornate glass ceilings, mosaic and stone tiled floors, antique store fronts and warmly illuminated boutiques and cafes.

• Galerie Vivienne.  One of Paris’s most iconic arcades, known for its elegant storefronts and mosaic tile floor. Enjoy a coffee at Le Valentin Vivienne while taking in the splendor of the arcade. 

• Les Passages Couverts.  A series of hidden shopping arcades in the 2nd Arrondissement. They’re fun to discover and walk through. 

• Passages des Panoramas.   Paris’ oldest arcade, dating back well over 200 years. It has a refined and aged character true to Parisian charm. 

Shop for Books.  Buy a book from one of these classic locations!

• Les Bouquinistes.  A series of outdoor booksellers with green cabinets and displays of French language books set up along the banks of the Seine. 

• Shakespeare and Company.  One of the world’s most famous book stores, often depicted in movies and shows. They’re extremely popular, don’t allow photos indoors and only sell English books. 

• Galerie Vivienne.  The iconic gallery is home to multiple book stores selling antique French books. 

Walk in Julia Child’s Foot Steps.   If you admire Julia Child as much as us, visit some of her old haunts: 

• Les Deux Magots.  A historic brasserie where Julia Child and her husband, Paul Child, often ate. Come here for a leisurely brunch and range of French dishes. 

• E Dehellerin.  A 200+ year old kitchen supply store where Julia Child used to shop for knives, copper dishes and various “batterie de cuisine.

• Rue Montorgueil.  A vibrant market street where Julia Child would shop for produce and meats. Today its lined with food markets, boulangeries, fromageries, patisseries, old world bars, restaurants and cafes.

Shop at a Market.  Walk through the stalls of an actual French market like Marché de Enfants Rouge, Paris’ oldest food market with an array of stalls and vendors selling prepared meals, fresh fruits, vegetables, cheeses, meats and seafood. There are a number of tiny shops surrounding the market selling rustic and vintage items. 

See The Seine.  A lengthy river meandering through the heart of Paris. Dozens of bridges connect the right and left banks of the city while cobblestone walkways and iconic landmarks line both sides. It’s a relaxing place to sit on a bench, picnic under a tree or dangle your legs over the river’s edge and watch the boats float by. Book a Champagne Cruise at sunset with Bateaux Mouche to experience the city in a different light. Cruises are often touristy and crowded but it didn’t distract from the charm of Paris. 

Taste Everything!

To quote Julia Child, “people who love to eat are always the best people.” This couldn’t be truer than with the French. 

Sit at a Sidewalk Cafe.  Practically a French pastime, enjoy a meal at a sidewalk cafe overlooking the Parisian streets and plazas. 

• La Cremaillère.  A restaurant in the Place du Tertre with traditional French dishes and wine. Come for the French onion soup, moules-frites and salmon with béarnaise sauce.

• Breizh Cafe.  A cafe with an extensive menu of sweet crepes and savoy galettes. Try the crepe suzette! 

• Cafe Charlot.   A small corner bistro with sidewalk dining room. It’s a lovely spot to sit for breakfast or brunch and enjoy a lazy morning. 

A Parisian Pastry Crawl.  The French are well known for their love of pastries. We visited multiple boulangeries and patisseries across the city, tasting apple tarte tatin, pain au chocolate, madeleines, eclairs, brioche and macarons. 

• Les Petits Mitrons.  A classic French pastry shop located on Rue Lepic in Montmartre with an elegant selection of fruit tarts, savory quiche and cookies. 

• Boulangerie Mimoune.  A bakery with rustic French breads and delicate French pastries.

• Boulangerie Les Deux Frères.  A boulangeries on a corner of Montmartre with a large selection of breads, pastries and quiche.

• Du Pain et des Idées.  A famed bakery, known for their pistachio chocolate escargot pastries, named for the pastry’s shell shaped swirl. 

• Paul.  A coffee shop chain with locations across Paris. Come here for coffees, pastries, sandwiches and breads.

Dine at the Bistros.  Paris is one of the culinary capitals of the world home to tiny bistros, famed restaurants and local haunts.  

• Les Ombres.  The restaurant we we got engaged on our first trip to Paris! A fine dining restaurant serving contemporary French cuisine. It’s dining room is enclosed in a fragmented glass structure inspired by the shadows of the Eiffel Tower while its rooftop terrace offers some of the city’s best views of the iconic landmark. Make reservations and come at sunset! 

• L’Escargot.  Serving the their namesake since 1832, this old world restaurant is known for their Burgundy snails served in the shell.

• Café des Deux Moulins.  A beloved French bistro in Montmartre with a warmly lit interior and lively terrace made famous by the movie Amelie. Come for omelettes and escargot at lunch. 

• Brasserie Floderer.  A classic French restaurant known for its historic ambience, seafood dishes and extensive wine selection. 

• Déviant. A tiny kitchen serving serving elegant small plates paired with French wines. Dine at their standing bar inside or at the sidewalk bistro. 

• La Mascotte.  A historic restaurant in Montmartreserving elevated seafood dishes like butter and lemon sole, turbot encrusted in seaweed and some of the city’s tastiest oysters paired with champagne. 

Sip on French Spirits.  While known for its wine, France produces of the finest spirits including absinthe, chartreuse, cognac and cointreau.

• Marlusse et Lapin.  A small and funky cocktail bar with an apartment like feeling that spills out onto the street. Come for the flamed absinthe drip cocktail.

• Le Syndicat.  A speakeasy style cocktail bar previously rated at one of the top 50 bars in the world. Come here for their signature and classic cocktails made using French spirits. 

French Cuisine 

Beef Bourguignon.  A beef stew cooked with carrots, potatoes, mushrooms, bacon, garlic and pearl onions in a red wine sauce.  

Coq au Vin.  A cousin to Beef Bourguignon but made with chicken instead. 

Cassoulet.  A savory white bean stew cooked with sausage, onion and garlic. 

Nicoise Salad.  A salad originating from the coastal city of Nice. It’s a hardy salad made with a combination of tomatoes, hard boiled eggs, olives, tuna, anchovies, green beans, potatoes and red onions over a bed of lettuce. 

Tartare.  A classic French dish of minced raw meat, typically steak or tuna, mixed with herbs and presented in a puck shaped disk.

Ratatouille.  A provincial style vegetable stew made using diced or sliced pieces of eggplant, zucchini and tomato then seasoned with herbs.

French Onion Soup.  A beef broth soup made with caramelized onions, topped with croutons and broiled cheese. 

Escargot.  Snails cooked in a copious amount of butter, garlic and parsley or tarragon. They’re typically served in the shell or in a porcelain baking dish with toasted pieces of baguette. They’re a delicacy on many menus in Paris.

Omelette.  A pan fried and folded envelope of eggs. French versions are custardy and lightly cooked until just formed together. It’s common to eat at lunchtime. 

Quiche.  A savory egg tart or pie baked with vegetables, herbs or meats. 

Gratin Dauphinois.  Thinly sliced potatoes baked in heavy cream. 

Pomme Frites.  Also known as French Fries. They’re a common side dish and typically served with mayonnaise. 

Croissant.  A crescent shaped pastry with layers of buttery and flakey crust. It comes in multiple versions including chocolate, raspberry and almond. 

Baguette.  A quintessentially French style of bread easily recognized by its long shape and 3 slice marks. Its beloved for its crunchy crust and chewy crumb. 

Tarte Tatin.  A tart or pie with a rich layer of caramelized apples. 

Crepes Suzette.  A folded and flamed crepe cooked in an orange sauce and orange liquor. 

Creme Brûlée.  A French vanilla custard with a flamed layer of hardened sugar on top. 

Wine.  France is world renowned for its wines including Bordeaux, Burgundy, Cote de Rhone, Beaujoule and Champagne. Buy a bottle at a local market or pair a glass with any meal while dining out. 

Getting Around Paris

Metropolítaín (The Metro).  Beneath the streets of Paris is one of the world’s oldest metro systems, recognizable by its Art Nouveau entrances. In French fashion, the Metro was closed due to transit strikes both times we visited Paris. 

On Foot.  Paris is a lovely city to explore on foot and get lost in. Walk down the cobblestone streets, admire the historic architecture, wander along the Seine and stroll through lively plazas and parks.

Ride Shares.  Uber is common across Paris and often the quickest way of getting across the city and to the airport. City rides typically cost between €15-€20 while airport rides cost around €50.

French Words & Phrases 

While many Parisians speak English, they adore when foreigners try to speak French. Some of the most common words and phrases we used are: 

• Bonjour = Hello or Good morning

• Au revoir = Goodbye

• Bonsoir = Good evening

• Merci = Thank you

• Merci beaucoup = Thank you very much

• S’il vous plaît = Please

• De rien = You’re welcome

• Excusez-moi = Excuse me

• La carte, s’il vous plaît = The menu, please

• L’addition s’il vous plaît = The check, please

• Je voudrais… = I would like…

• Je t'aime = I love you

Places to Stay 

Montmartre Loft.  An elegant apartment on the 6th floor of a Parisian style residential building with stunning views of Montmartre’s rooftops and the Basilica of Sacre-Coeur. Reserve on Airbnb.

Old Bakery Loft.  A lofted vacation rental in a converted bakery. The cozy space opens up to the streets of Paris. It’s central location is walking distance to sidewalk cafes, bistros, art museums and landmark sights. Reserve on Airbnb. 

Next Time in Paris… 

Paris is always a good idea and were certain to return. Having been to Paris twice, we have yet to visit some of the most iconic sights including: 

Notre Dame.   The Gothic cathedral known for its rose windows, buttresses & gargoyles. We visited after the fire that nearly destroyed the landmark but were unable to enter its vast interior. 

The Palace of Versailles.  King Louis XIV’s famous palace and grounds. 

St. Ouen Flea Market. Paris’ most famous flea market for over 150 years with 3000+ merchants selling vintage items, antiques, artwork, books, furniture, etc.

Parc des Buttes Chaumont.  Picnic in the hilly & lush park and sip on rosé at Rosa Bonheur. 

See More Art:

• The Louvre.  The world’s most well known art museum, particularly for it’s collection of Da Vinci paintings like The Mona Lisa. The museum deserves a half to full day to explore but specific pieces can be seen in less time.

• Musee d’ Orsay.  An impressionist and art nouveau museum in a converted glass train station with works by Van Gogh, Monet, Renoir, Degas and Cézanne. 

• Musee Picasso.  A museum dedicated to Picasso with the largest collection of the artist’s works in the world. 

Southwestern Puerto Rico

Southwestern Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico’s southwestern region is home to some of the island’s most diverse landscapes and historic pueblos. The Caribbean coast features unspoiled beaches, protected marine reserves, a bioluminescent bay and pink salt flats. Hiking trails meander through the dry forest while scenic mountain roads reveal sweeping panoramic views of the region’s lush terrain. Historic mountain towns and vibrant pueblos provide rich cultural experiences and culinary delights. During adventures to the region, we’ve explored Cabo Rojo, San Germán, Lajas, Yauco and Guánica.

Cabo Rojo

Cabo Rojo is a picturesque corner of the island with pink salt flats, Caribbean beaches and turquoise waters. 

Cabo Rojo Salt Flats

The Cabo Rojo Salt Flats are famed for their bright pink and light blue hued salt ponds. Stop into the Visitor Center to learn about the salt flats indigenous beginnings, current uses and the surrounding ecosystem. Climb the 3 story tall Observation Tower for views overlooking the salt flats and their multihued ponds. Continue further down the road for access to the salt flats and the narrow pathways separating the ponds. 

Good to Know.  Read recent reviews to gauge the current level of pinkness and accessibility. 

Vamos a la Playa 

Cabo Rojo is home to some of Puerto Rico’s most pristine beaches and scenic coves. We’ve beach hopped along the coast on previous visits to the region. 

Playa El Combate.   A lengthy tan sand beach with swimmable aquamarine waters and a shaded tree line near the town of El Combate. The water’s higher salinity, due to nearby salt flats, makes floating effortless in the calm waters. The section closest to town tends to be livelier while the southern half provides a quiet and scenic escape. The town is home to small hotels, restaurants and bars making it a popular getaway for locals and families. 

Pro Tip.  Arrive before 9am to find free parking along the roadside. 

Buyé Beach.  An extremely popular beach with a narrow white sand shore, turquoise hued cove and shaded tree line. Locals gather for sunny beach days as groups of jet skiers race off shore. Music fills the air as speakers blast Bad Bunny and Reggaetón. The lively shoreline is lined with colorful cottages and beach kiosks serving Puerto Rican cuisine alongside tropical cocktails and local beers. Visit the Sunset Shack for mojitos!

Pro Tip.  Arrive before 9am to find free parking along the roadside or pay $10 at the lot leading to the beach. 

Playa Sucia.  A crescent shaped beach covered in soft white sand hugging a turquoise bay. The beach overlooks distant cliffs and the Faro Los Morrillos Lighthouse. It’s a popular beach despite being semi-remote. Bring your own food, snacks and water for the day as there are no nearby kiosks or vendors. 

Pro Tip.  Like the other beaches, arrive early to find parking and a shaded spot under the tree line. 

Nature Trails & Sights 

There are a few nature trails that weave through the salt flats and desert terrain surrounding the ponds. We spent about two hours hiking through them and exploring the area. When coming here, wear sun protection, bring a sturdy umbrella and plenty of water. 

Observation Tower Loop. A trail leading through the dry forest from the visitor center to an observation tower overlooking a large salt pond.

Ruins Trail.  A trail that cuts across two large salt ponds, past a piles of salt and smaller ponds. The trail ends at the sea and connects to the Observation Tower Loop and Bikes Trail.

Bikes Trail.  A lengthy trail that weaves throughout the salt flats and along Playa El Combate. It can be hiked but is frequently used by mountain bikers. 

Faro Los Morrillos Lighthouse.  A cliffside lighthouse with panoramic views of the Caribbean Sea. Nature trails lead from The Cabo Rojo Salt Flats and Playa Sucia across the peninsula, rock formations and steep jagged cliffs. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Buena Vibra.  A restaurant with innovative Caribbean dishes and seafood like a ceviche filled pineapple, mahi mahi stuffed avocados and coconut encrusted grouper. It’s one of the best restaurants we’ve dined at on the island! Meals are pricy but worth every dollar. 

San Germán Pueblo

San Germán Pueblo is a charming mountain town deeply rooted in Puerto Rican culture and history. Its origins date back nearly 500 years to the early Spanish colonial period, time of French corsairs and indigenous rebellions. The historic center is defined by red brick and cobblestone streets, treelined and manicured plazas, colorfully painted and stylized buildings. It’s home to local residences, municipal buildings, churches, museums and restaurants. 

Plaza San Germán.  A historic plaza at the center of San Germán Pueblo. It’s surrounded by colonial era and landmark buildings including the town hall, theater and church. 

Plaza Santo Domingo.  A tree lined and brick paved plaza with green benches, bronze busts and overhanging strings twinkle lights. It’s flanked by historic wooden homes, colorful buildings and the Porta Coeli.

El Convento de Santo Domingo de Porta Coeli.  A 400+ year old church converted into a museum of religious artwork. It features paintings and wooden artifacts like hand carved statues, the stations of the cross and a large reredos. It overlooks the Plaza Santo Domingo.

Casa Morales.  A landmark house with ornamental designs, a wrap around porch and wooden shutters. It’s a central feature of the Plaza Santo Domingo.

Parroquia San Germán de Auxerre.  A 300+ year old neoclassical church located at one end of the Plaza San Germán. 

Museo del la Historia de San Germán. A historical museum with largely written exhibits about the history of San Germán and Puerto Rico from pre colonial times to modern day. 

Ceiba de la Libertad.  A 100+ year old Ceiba tree planted to commemorate Puerto Rico’s right to self governance from Spain in 1897. 

Places to Eat & Drink

El Cubujon.  A popular cocktail bar and lounge specializing in signature cocktails and reenvisioned classics. Try their Daiquiri made with Puerto Rican rum or the Pina Buena made with clarified citrus punch and coconut oil. 

Me Latte un Pocillo.  A brunch cafe in the Plaza San Germánoffering Puerto Rican coffee and waffles, omelettes and sandwiches. Sit at their sole outdoor table, overlooking the plaza, listening to the musical sounds of the town’s church bells. 

Yí Restaurant.  A Caribbean restaurant serving a fusion of Haitian, creole and Puerto Rican cuisine. Order the stuffed Mofongo, fried plantain mash and Accra, a yautia and malanga fritter.

Bosque Estatal de Maricao

Bosque Estatal de Maricao isa tropical forest covering the mountains bordering San Germán and Maricao. Drive along Ruta Panoramica 120 from the town of Sabana Grande to the town of Maricao to experience it. Stop at La Torre de Piedra, a castle shaped stone tower on a mountainous ridge overlooking the forest.

Lajas 

Lajas is a coastal region of Puerto Rico along the Caribbean Sea with fishing villages, mangrove forests, chains of cayos, turquoise sand bars and one of the island’s famed bioluminescent bays.

La Parguera Nature Reserve 

A marine reserve located in the fishing town of La Parguera. The reserve is made up of over 30 cayos, mangroves, sand bars, coral reefs and a bioluminescent bay. The only way to explore the reserve is by boat. We hired a captain for 5 hours with Joy Tours PR to bring us to different cayos in the reserve. 

The Cayos

Cayo Caracoles & Robo la Gata.  Two cayos with a shallow sand bars and clear turquoise water protected by the reefs and mangroves. Underwater trails lead through the mangroves and into the reef. They’re a popular spot for swimming, snorkeling, relaxing and partying. We spent the afternoon lounging in a raft, tanning in the sun and drinking Caribbean rum. 

Good to Know:

• Bring all food and drink with you for the day. 

• Wear water shoes to avoid sea urchins and broken coral. 

• Some cayos were closed due to damage from Hurricane Fiona. 

• Many boats often dock here on the weekends while the weekdays are quiet. 

La Parguera Bio Bay 

One of three bioluminescent bays in Puerto Rico, and the only one that people are allowed to swim in. Arriving on a tour boat at night, we jumped into the water causing a bright blue cloud of bioluminescence to form around us. As we swam in the warm salty water, it glowed bright blue with every movement, sparkling on our skin. It was a surreal experience that felt like swimming in a pool of glitter. 

We booked with Paradise Scuba. Our tour included unlimited medallas and 2 fried vegetarian empanadas. We stoped at Cayo Caracoles to swim at sunset before making our way to the bio bay. We spent about half an hour in the bio bay before returning. Out of all 3 bio bays in Puerto Rico, this one was our favorite experience! 

Pro Tips. The best time to visit this bio bay is on a fully dark, moonless night, after a sunny day and at least five days after the last rain. Bring a hoodie for the boat ride back. After swimming it gets cold.

Places to Eat & Drink 

There are many restaurants and bars along the main road in the city center of La Parguera. Most serve seafood, Puerto Rican dishes and rum based cocktails. 

Puerto Parguera Restaurant.  A seafood restaurant with dishes like octopus salad, whole fried red snapper and seafood paella. We splurged and ordered a grilled Caribbean lobster with a side of maduros (fried sweet plantains).

Isla Cueva.  A restaurant and bar with over a dozen burger options including beef, chicken, pork, fish and vegan. We ordered the fried mahi mahi burger, piña colada and sangria. It’s a great spot to come before or after visiting the bioluminescent bay tour. 

Yauco 

Yauco stretches from the Caribbean Sea to the lush and rugged landscapes of the island’s interior. The region is famed for its colorful hillside pueblo and coffee production. 

Yauco Pueblo 

A pueblo at the heart of Yauco that blends historic architecture and urban artworks. Vivid murals and colorful geometric patterns transform its walls, staircases and neighborhoods into an open air gallery. The town’s historic character is reflected in its mix of Creole, Spanish colonial, neoclassical, Baroque and Art Deco architecture. Adding to its charm, cafes serve locally grown and roasted coffee. 

Pro Tip.  Visit from Thursday to Saturday. Most businesses are closed during the first half of the week. 

Yaucromatic.  A hillside neighborhood converted into a canvass of colorfully painted houses, staircases and walls. The best views of the art installation is from the intersection of Calle E Sanches Lopez and Calle de la Cruz. Walk up Calle E Sanches Lopez to the top of the hill for photogenic views of the entire pueblo. 

La Escalinata de Yauco.  A painted staircase featuring Yauco’s flag and a statue of an indigenous Taino warrior. There’s a small park near the base of the stairs with a colorfully crochet wrapped tree and murals of Puerto Rican birds 

Mural de la Niña con el Pelo de Trinitaria.  A mural of a young child whose hair is formed by a vibrant bush of blossoming purple flowers.

Miradas del Barrio.  A series of murals at the top of the hill overlooking Yauco featuring close up paintings of people’s staring faces and eyes. 

Calle 25 de Julio.  A central road with many colorful historic homes spanning different architectural styles. Some of the most notable buildings to see include: Franceschi Antongiorgi House, Filardi House and The Cesari Mansion. 

Guánica 

Referred to as the “Paraíso del Eterno Verano,” or the Paradise of Eternal Summer, Guánica is a sunny region with white sand beaches, dry forests and coastal look out points.  

Playa Santa.  A popular white sand beach with turquoise waters, kayak rentals and beach restaurants. Stop for drinks at Mojito Beach Bar & El Anclan Flontante for all kinds of fried empanadas like fish, lobster, conch, octopus and shrimp. 

Guánica State Forest.  A vast. Bio-reserve and dry forest home to many species of cacti, thorny evergreens and coastal mangroves. The park is divided by the Guánica Bay with several hiking trails that lead to beaches, rock formations and ruins.

• Fuerte Capon.  The ruins of a small fort overlooking the Guánica Bay and forest. Start at the visitor center and hike follow the 6 mile trail to hike here or park at Playa Jaboncillo beach and follow the shorter 30 minute trail to Fuerte Capon.

• PR-333.  A scenic coastal road with views of the dry forest and Caribbean Sea. There are many beaches, scenic pull offs and hiking trails along the way.

• Good to Know.  The visitor center closes at 4pm. Park rangers prevent people from beginning hikes after 2pm. 

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Chillo Frito Entero.  A fried red snapper served whole with crispy skin, tender meat and squeezed with lime. It’s usually accompanied by fried plantains like tostones, mofongo or amarillos. 

Mofongo.  Fried plantain mashed with garlic and butter. It’s often served plain or stuffed with an option of seafood. If prepared with bread fruit and yucca, it’s known as trifongo. 

Empanadillas.  Puerto Rican style fried empanadas stuffed with a range of fillings like octopus, conch, cod, shrimp, crap and pizza. 

Pinchos.  Grilled meats served on a stick often served at beaches or roadside kiosks. Our favorites are shark and shrimp. 

Mojo Isleño.  A savory sauce made from tomato, onion, bell pepper, garlic, olives and bay leaves. It’s often served on fried red snapper, lobster or mixed with octopus and conch.

Mallorca.  A Puerto Rican pasty often shaped like a bun or swirled roll and dusted in powered sugar. Our favorite preparations are pressed with guava with cheese or egg and cheese. 

Coco Frio.  A cold and freshly opened coconut. Drink the coconut water inside then the sweet meat inside. Alternatively, enjoy it with coconut rum to create a tropical cocktail 

Rum.  Puerto Rico is unarguably the rum capital of the Caribbean with several distilleries and local brands served in bars across the island. Order it on the rocks, in a Pina Colada or other tropical cocktail. 

Medalla.  The island’s most popular local beer, recognizable by it’s small golden can. It has a light slightly nutty flavor and is served everywhere. Buy a 6 pack for the beach!

Getting Around

Rent A Car.  Renting a car is necessary to get around anywhere on the southwest side of Puerto Rico. Rent from a reputable rental agency from any of the island’s three airports in San Juan, Aguadilla or Ponce. We’ve had luck renting from local agencies including: Charlie Car Rental, Cabrera Car & Truck Rental and Flagship. 

Where to Stay 

Orange B Living (OB3).  A tropical style motel in Cabo Rojo with a series of vacation rentals and apartments. It’s walking distance to nearby restaurants and driving distance to Cabo Rojo’s beaches. Book on Airbnb. 

Location Specifics

Respect the Culture.  Puerto Ricans are very proud of their island, culture and heritage. Please show respect when discussing local issues and topics. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and learn about the culture and island.  

US Territory.  Puerto Rico is a US Territory meaning US Citizens can visit the island without a passport. 

Language.  Spanish is the primary language spoken in Puerto Rico. English is widely spoken as a second language. Knowing basic Spanish words and phrases is helpful and beneficial when visiting. 

Currency.  Puerto Rico uses the US Dollar. 

Metric vs Imperial.  Puerto Rico uses a combination of the Metric and Imperial systems. Speed limits are in marked in mph while distances are marked in kilometers. Gasoline is sold by the liter instead of by the gallon. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit and debit card is widely accepted across the island. Cash is preferred by most vendors at markets, kiosks and some businesses. 

Power Outages.  The electrical grid is fragile due to devastation from past natural disasters. While power outages rarely affect tourists, they do happen. It’s a difficult part of life for many Puerto Ricans. 

Tap Water.  Tap water is generally safe for consumption around the island. 

Tropical Weather.  Puerto Rico experiences tropical weather. Carry an umbrella incase of afternoon and evening rain storms. Tropical storms and hurricanes are possible from June through November with September through October being the most active. 

Swimming.  Mind the warning signs and red flags advising about dangerous ocean currents. Pay attention to where others are and are not swimming. 

Sun Protection.  The harsh UV is dangerous in Puerto Rico. Wear sun block when outside, even on cloudy days. 

Insect Repellent.  Mosquitos are prevalent across the island with mosquito borne illnesses on the rise. Wear insect repellant to minimize bites.  

Clothing.  Shorts and tank tops are generally acceptable to wear, keep the swimwear for the beach and plan to change into pants while dining out or visiting local spots. 

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

Having visited Puerto Rico nearly 20 times, we’ve experienced many places across the island. Though we don’t live here, we consider ourselves non-local experts and one day hope to call this beautiful island our home. Experience Puerto Rican culture in the capital city of San Juan. Explore the colorful and colonial streets of Old San Juan. Participate in Carnival during the Festival of Masks in Puerto Rico’s second city, Ponce. Hike the El Yunque Rainforest in Eastern Puerto Rico. Visit the surf towns along Western Puerto Rico. See the indigenous Taino sights of Central Puerto Rico. Get off the mainland to visit the islands of Culebra and Vieques.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around the southwestern region of Puerto Rico including: 

Hacienda Iluminada Coffee Farm.  A coffee hacienda home to 787 Coffee. They frequently offer tours and tastings. Book online or call ahead for reservations. 

Parque Nacional Balneario Boquerón.  A lengthy golden sand beach with a large palm grove, protected swimming area and sunset views. 

Finca El Girasol.  A sunflower farm with near year round rows of sunflowers. The finca offers tours and fresh cut sunflowers. 

El Rodadero Peak.  A mountain peak reachable after hiking a steep and slippery trail. It offers stunning views of the island’s lush and rugged landscape. 

The Wall.  A vast drop off along the continental shelf spanning several miles with over 30 different dive sites. Paradise Scuba & Snorkel in La Parguera offers snorkeling and scuba diving tours. 

Ponce, Puerto Rico

The Pearl of the South

Ponce, known as “The Pearl of the South,” is famed for its architectural landmarks, indigenous cultural sights and annual carnival festivities.

Architectural Styles 

Ponce is a historic city with multitudes of architectural styles and colorful buildings. We spent an afternoon wandering the streets to see the mix of Creole, Colonial, Neoclassical, Spanish Revival, Miami Art Deco, Arabesque and 90s Modernist style buildings. 

An Underdog 

The city is a bit of an underdog; recovering from hurricanes, earthquakes and the effects of the pandemic. Though quieter and less traveled to, it has a charming local ambiance that can’t be overlooked. Like many Ponceños, we’re rooting for this beautiful city!

Visit the Sights & Museums

Plaza de las Delicias.  The lush town square and historical center of Ponce with monuments, statues, landmark buildings and adjacent restaurants.  

Fuente de los Leones.  A large two tiered fountain with statues lions, a symbol of strength and of Ponce.

Parque de Bombas.  Ponce’s iconic red and black striped former fire station and now museum. 

Museo de la Historia de Ponce.  Ponce’s historical museum with galleries explaining the significance of the city, its history, politics, architecture and cultural impacts on Puerto Rico as a whole. A local historian, Ronald, gave us a tour, recommended places to eat in Ponce and nearby places to visit. 

Ponce Cathedral.  A large light blue and white neoclassical cathedral that divides the plaza.

La Guancha.  A waterfront boardwalk and beach with restaurants, kiosks, a marina and an observation tower. Hurricane Fiona caused structural damage to the boardwalk and its since been condemned. Many restaurants have since opened food trucks along a road in the parking area. 

Museo Castillo Serrallés.  A large mansion overlooking the city that once belonged to a sugar cane & rum baron. It’s now a museum and event venue with lush gardens and city views. Come to tour its grounds and interiors while sipping on a Don Q piña colada from its cafe.

Centro Ceremonial Indígena de Tibes.  A free archeological museum dedicated to the Tiano people with exhibits displaying artifacts including pottery, stone tools, shell jewelry and human remains. A short walk behind the museum is an open air exhibit with uncovered petroglyphs, stone platforms, ball courts and a plaza. 

Carnaval Ponceño (Festival of Masks)  

Ponce’s week long carnival festival included nightly events, parades, performances and the famous Vejigantes leading up to carnival Tuesday. 

Vejigantes

Carnaval Ponceño, also known as The Festival of Masks, is famous for the Puerto Rican Vejigantes, elaborately painted paper mache masks decorated with pointed horns, jagged teeth and worn with colorful jumpsuits. The Vejigantes are the symbol of the carnival and traditionally act as a reminder of evil spirits. Nowadays, they’re an expression of Puerto Rican culture. 

The Festival 

Plaza de las Delicias is turned into a fair with food, drink and craft vendors, amusement park rides & a main stage hosting musical performances and announcing the events on the carnival. Unlike what’s typically expected from carnival, Ponce’s is very family friendly.

Food vendors fry all types Puerto Rican dishes like mero (grouper), mofongo bites (mashed plantain), bacalaitos (cod fritters) and cheese. Full bars serve medalla, the local beer, and a list of cocktails like piña coladas, cuba libres and rum punch. Craft vendors sell handmade items like Vejigante pins, masks, horns and painted jackets. We bought and wore a pair of horns, similar to the full face masks worn by the Vejigantes.

The Main Parade 

The main parade is the largest event of the carnival celebrations with Vejigantes, marching bands, floats, the queens of the carnival, classic cars & loud speaker trucks. The parade travels west down Calle Reina towards Plaza de las Delicias and ending in front of the main stage. The parade happens on Sunday afternoon before carnival Tuesday. It started around 2:30pm and lasted into the evening with festivities lasting even longer. Most people arrive by late morning and set up chairs along the shaded side of Calle Reina for the best views. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Campioni Pizza Birra & Tapas.  A popular restaurant for Puerto Rican style pizza (thin crust pizza cooked in a wood fired oven). Order the fruto del mar pizza topped with shrimp, calamari and octopus to and a sangria.

Lola Eclectic Cuisine.  An elevated restaurant serving international cuisine. Try the tuna tartare wonton tacos, grilled salmon on a taro cake, sea bass over lentils and ice-cream on a fried plantain. 

Mariscos Patio Beach.  A roadside seafood kiosk overlooking the Caribbean with fresh and fried seafood dishes. Try the octopus salad, shrimp salad and tostones. 

Tazza D' Oro Caffé.  A breakfast and brunch spot across from Plaza de las Delicias. Try the egg quesadilla or eggs Benedict on brioche. They serve Gusto’s coffee, a Puerto Rican coffee roaster. 

Con Leche.  A breakfast and brunch cafe. Try the Mallorca egg sandwich or breakfast wrap made with eggs and salsa rojo.

Chango Bar.  A dive bar named after the little black birds seen across Puerto Rico. Come here for a Medalla or glass of Don Q served neat. 

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Chillo Frito Entero.  A fried red snapper served whole with crispy skin, tender meat and squeezed with lime. It’s usually accompanied by fried plantains like tostones, mofongo or amarillos. 

Mofongo.  Fried plantain mashed with garlic and butter. It’s often served plain or stuffed with an option of seafood. If prepared with bread fruit and yucca, it’s known as trifongo. 

Empanadillas.  Puerto Rican style fried empanadas stuffed with a range of fillings like octopus, conch, cod, shrimp, crap and pizza. 

Pinchos.  Grilled meats served on a stick often served at beaches or roadside kiosks. Our favorites are shark and shrimp. 

Mojo Isleño.  A savory sauce made from tomato, onion, bell pepper, garlic, olives and bay leaves. It’s often served on fried red snapper, lobster or mixed with octopus and conch.

Mallorca.  A Puerto Rican pasty often shaped like a bun or swirled roll and dusted in powered sugar. Our favorite preparations are pressed with guava with cheese or egg and cheese. 

Coco Frio.  A cold and freshly opened coconut. Drink the coconut water inside then the sweet meat inside. Alternatively, enjoy it with coconut rum to create a tropical cocktail 

Rum.  Puerto Rico is unarguably the rum capital of the Caribbean with several distilleries and local brands served in bars across the island. Order it on the rocks, in a Pina Colada or other tropical cocktail. 

Medalla.  The island’s most popular local beer, recognizable by it’s small golden can. It has a light slightly nutty flavor and is served everywhere. Buy a 6 pack for the beach!

Where to Stay

Casa Luna.  An inexpensive hotel in a neon green creole style building located 2 streets away from Plaza de las Delicias inPonce’s city center. It has multiple private rooms with bathrooms, a public patio and outdoor kitchen. Book on Airbnb.

Location Specifics

Respect the Culture.  Puerto Ricans are very proud of their island, culture and heritage. Please show respect when discussing local issues and topics. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and learn about the culture and island.  

US Territory.  Puerto Rico is a US Territory meaning US Citizens can visit the island without a passport. 

Language.  Spanish is the primary language spoken in Puerto Rico. English is widely spoken as a second language. Knowing basic Spanish words and phrases is helpful and beneficial when visiting. 

Currency.  Puerto Rico uses the US Dollar. 

Metric vs Imperial.  Puerto Rico uses a combination of the Metric and Imperial systems. Speed limits are in marked in mph while distances are marked in kilometers. Gasoline is sold by the liter instead of by the gallon. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit and debit card is widely accepted across the island. Cash is preferred by most vendors at markets, kiosks and some businesses. 

Power Outages.  The electrical grid is fragile due to devastation from past natural disasters. While power outages rarely affect tourists, they do happen. It’s a difficult part of life for many Puerto Ricans. 

Tap Water.  Tap water is generally safe for consumption around the island. 

Tropical Weather.  Puerto Rico experiences tropical weather. Carry an umbrella incase of afternoon and evening rain storms. Tropical storms and hurricanes are possible from June through November with September through October being the most active. 

Swimming.  Mind the warning signs and red flags advising about dangerous ocean currents. Pay attention to where others are and are not swimming. 

Sun Protection.  The harsh UV is dangerous in Puerto Rico. Wear sun block when outside, even on cloudy days. 

Insect Repellent.  Mosquitos are prevalent across the island with mosquito borne illnesses on the rise. Wear insect repellant to minimize bites.  

Clothing.  Shorts and tank tops are generally acceptable to wear, keep the swimwear for the beach and plan to change into pants while dining out or visiting local spots. 

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

Having visited Puerto Rico nearly 20 times, we’ve experienced many places across the island. Though we don’t live here, we consider ourselves non-local experts and one day hope to call this beautiful island our home. Experience Puerto Rican culture in the capital city of San Juan. Explore the colorful and colonial streets of Old San Juan. Hike the El Yunque Rainforest in Eastern Puerto Rico. Visit the surf towns along Western Puerto Rico. Head to the Caribbean Coast of Southwestern Puerto Rico. See the indigenous Taino sights of Central Puerto Rico. Get off the mainland to visit the islands of Culebra and Vieques.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around the southern side of Puerto Rico including: 

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set on visiting Isla Caja De Muertos, a secluded nature reserve off the coast of Ponce home to a dry forest, many species of birds, coral reefs for snorkeling and diving, sandy beaches, turquoise water, hiking trails and mangroves. It can only be reached by boat however most ferries and tour operators have stopped visiting the island since hurricane Fiona and a series of earthquakes. 

O’ahu, Hawaii

Aloha from O’ahu!

Aloha from the Hawaiian Island of O’ahu! O’ahu is an adventurous destination for active vacations and leisurely itineraries. The ocean invites surfers to ride breaking waves and snorkelers to spot marine life in lively coral reefs. Hikers take to rigorous trails along mountains ridges, volcanic craters and lush forests. Sunny days are made for relaxing on pristine beaches, sipping mai tais and watching sunsets. Vibrant rainbows arch over the skyscrapers of Honolulu after tropical showers. 

Honolulu

Honolulu is a big city with tropical vibes and access to some of the O'ahu’s best beaches, hiking trails and farmers markets. Its neighborhoods and streets are hubs for Hawaiian culture, cuisine and nightlife. 

Waikiki.  Famed for its palm lined beaches, luxury high-rises and oceanfront hotels, Waikiki is at the center of Honolulu. It’s an energetic place popular with both travelers and islanders. Many visit to relax at its beaches, shop the busting streets, sip cocktails at tiki bars, order from food trucks and dine at restaurants. 

Kalākaua Ave.  Brimming with luxury brands, clothing boutiques, souvenir stores, surf shops and hotels, Kalākaua Ave. is the commercial artery of Waikiki. It comes to life each night with an eclectic mix of street performers, tarot card readers, karaoke stands, typewriter poets, bible salesmen, human statues and exotic animals. 

Chinatown.  A historic neighborhood known locally for its weekend nightlife scene and authentic Chinese restaurants. The most lively area is on Hotel St. between Smith St. and Nuuamu Ave.

Relax on the Honolulu’s Beaches 

Honolulu is a famed beach destination lined with sandy shores, turquoise waters, surf breaks and coral reefs. Its beaches offer a range of places to enjoy the island vibes. 

Waikiki Beach.  Palm trees and luxury hotels line the beach’s golden sands and aquamarine waters. It’s a paradise for sunbathing, swimming and water activities. Vacationers sip on tropical cocktails and couples watch picturesque sunsets. Surfers take lessons and ride gentle waves. Rowers experience the “Hawaiian roller coaster ride” on outrigger canoes. Catamarans ferry passengers on sightseeing tours along the coast.

Surf Rentals.  Rent surf boards from Moku Hawaii, a nearby surf shop with better priced boards than those available on Waikiki Beach. They also provide secure storage for personal belongs. 

Kapaemahu (The Stones of Life).  A sacred spot in Hawaiian folklore marked by four lava stones at Waikiki Beach. They’re believed to hold the healing knowledge brought to the islands by Polynesian healers. The full story can be learned by watching Kapaemahu, an animated short film. 

Queens Beach.  The tan sand beachfront along Waikiki’s southern end is a relaxing place to gather with friends. The beach attracts volleyball players and onlooking sunbathers. Meanwhile snorkelers search for tropical in the reef and along the pier. A boardwalk leads to the nearby Barefoot Beach Cafe offering Hawaiian bites. 

Fort DeRussy Beach.  The shoreline of Fort DeRussy Beach is a laid back place away from the crowds of Waikiki. It’s a spacious spot to sunbathe, enjoy a swim and view the Friday night fireworks. Walk the boardwalk to the Koa Oasis Booze Shack for a variety of takeaway cocktails garnished with orchids. 

Magic Island.  An artificial peninsula with a lush city park and protected sandy lagoon. It’s a popular spot to picnic, gather with friends, watch the sunset and enjoy the Friday night fireworks. 

Waikiki Friday Fireworks.  Weekends in Waikiki kick off with a firework show, held on the beach of the Hilton Hotel every Friday at 7:45pm. The show is visible from multiple places including Magic Island and Fort DeRussy Beach. 

Places to Shop 

Waikiki is a popular shopping destination with countless places to shop. We shopped for Hawaiian goods like tropical clothes, surfboards, ukuleles and souvenirs. 

Surf Garage.  A reputable surf shop specializing is new and used surf boards and accessories. The family run shop is the perfect place for first time buyers or experienced surfers. They also ship to the “mainland.” 

Ukulele Puapua.  A tiny shop selling a range of Hawaiian ukuleles. They offer free 30 minute lessons to learn strumming basics. Reserve a spot a day in advance. 

Avanti Hawaii.  A clothing store specializing in vintage style Hawaiian prints utilized across silk Aloha shirts, dresses and accessories. 

Hawaii Hat Shack.  A small boutique near Waikiki Beach specializing in embroidered baseball caps, bucket hats and floppy beach hats. 

Vibrations 'Ohana.  A gay friendly clothing shop with vibrant and patterned shirts, low cut shorts and swim briefs.  

ABC Stores.  A chain convenience store selling snacks, beverages, beachwear and souvenirs. They’re located on practically every corner of Waikiki.  

Mai Tais & Tiki Bars 

The Mai Tai, considered the ultimate tropical cocktail is synonymous with Hawaiian resort culture. We sampled versions at about every tiki bar in Waikiki, coming up with a list of our favorites. 

Mai Tai Bar.  A beachfront bar at the historic Royal Hawaiian Hotel credited with inviting the Hawaiian Mai Tai, a twist on the classic made with pineapple juice in lieu of lime juice. 

Duke’s Waikiki.  A beach front bar with all around Hawaiian vibes. Order the Duke’s Mai Tai, their house version made with fresh fruit juices and rums. It was our favorite on the island! Buy a handmade floral lei from a vendor near the host stand after 7pm. 

Arnold’s Beach Bar.  An off the beaten path tiki bar with inexpensive tropical cocktails, live music and free popcorn. They make a perfectly balanced traditional Mai Tai. 

Rumfire.  A beachside hotel bar with tropical cocktails, Hawaiian pupus and flaming tiki torches. Come for their Mai Tai Flight with your choice of three different versions of the famed cocktail. 

Cuckoo Coconuts.  An umbrella covered parking lot turned restaurant and bar with tropical cocktails, fried bar food, live music and tiki vibes. Their House Mai Tai is more juicy than boozy but won’t fail to sneak up on you. 

Hula’s Bar & Lei Stand.  A tiki style gay bar in Waikiki popular with both locals and tourists. Visit mid day for their Happy Hour Mai Tai, returning later in the night for live music, drag performances, strong tropical cocktails and bar snacks like nachos. 

Skull & Crown Trading Co.  A speakeasy style tiki bar decorated with vintage nautical artifacts. Their menu features a range of signature cocktails like the  Dagger Mai Tai, made with “redacted ingredients.” Make a reservation!

Merriman’s.  An elevated restaurant known for their happy hour specials and inventive cocktails. Try the Merriman’s Mai Tai, their house version made with macadamia nut orgeat and lilikoi (passion fruit) foam. 

Tiki’s Bar & Grill.  A restaurant and bar overlooking the palm lined shores of Waikiki Beach. Tropical cocktails are served in take home tiki mugs. Order the Hula Girl Mai Tai with an extra rum shot for a boozy experience! To eat, try the Hawaiian pupus like coconut shrimp, poke wontons and seared tuna. 

Aloha Amigo.  A vibrant Mexican style cantina in Waikiki serving a range of traditional tacos. Pair an order with the Spicy Mezcal Mai Tai for a cocktail that blends Mexican and Hawaiian flavors. 

Places to Eat in Honolulu 

In addition to the menus at the above tiki bars and restaurants, there is no shortage of places to eat in Honolulu. From food-truck parks to beachfront cafes and high-end restaurants, here are some of our favorites:

The Sunrise Shack.  A healthy spot to begin the day with a smoothie bowl and strong coffee. Visit one of many locations around O’ahu. 

Musubi Cafe Iyasume.  A small cafe specializing in Hawaii’s famed Spam Musubi and Japanese Onigiri. Expect to see a line out the door for the flavorful snacks.

Sam's Kitchen.  A hidden poolside restaurant at the Bamboo Waikiki Hotel known for its garlic shrimp, a Hawaiian staple. Service may be slow but it’s worth the wait!

Maguro Brothers.  A seafood spot in a food hall specializing in freshly prepared sashimi platters and generously sized poke bowls. 

Maui Brewing Company.  A Hawaiian brewery offering a selection of craft beers made with island flavors like citrus, pineapple and toasted coconut. Sip on a pint or order a flight while listening to nightly live music over dinner. Try the macadamia nut encrusted mahi mahi.

Orchids.  An upscale restaurant at the Halekulani Hotel with a romantic dining room. It’s the perfect place to come for a celebratory dinner, glass of champagne and famed coconut chiffon cake. 

Hawaiian Aroma Caffe.  A cafe at the Beachcomber Hotel serving tropical waffles, acai bowls and Kona Coffee. 

Kai Coffee Hawai’i.  A coffee shop with bold and flavorful brews of Hawaiian coffee. Visit one of their locations across O’ahu for a macadamia nut or coconut latte. 

Island Vintage Shave Ice. Shave ice is a Hawaiian treat popular across the islands. Come here for tropical fruit flavors like lilikoi, coconut, lychee, yuzu, acai and mango. 

Barefoot Beach Cafe.  An oceanfront cafe near Queens Beach with vegan breakfast dishes, smoothie bowls and coffees. Hawaiian music plays throughout their outdoor patio as customers relax with a meal and drink. 

Waikiki Food Truck Park.  Food trucks are commonplace across O’ahu with some of the best variety being at the Waikiki Food Truck Park. The park brings together over two dozen food trucks offering everything from poke, tacos, barbecue, garlic shrimp, vegan meals, international dishes, bubble tea, churros and smoothies. Take food to-go or dine under the thatched umbrellas picnic tables. 

Diamond Head

Diamond Head is a residential neighborhood of Honolulu defined by its volcanic crater, recreational activities and weekend farmers market. 

Diamond Head Crater.  Towering above Waikiki is one of O’ahu’s most iconic sights, the Diamond Head Crater. A trail leads from the floor of the extinct volcano to its rim, switchbacking past lookout points until reaching the summit. Panoramic views look towards the skyscrapers of Honolulu and the gradient blue coast.

Reservations.  Non islanders need a reservation to visit the crater. Bookings can be made online with Hawaii State Parks up to 30 days in advance. 

Diamond Head Beach Park.  The secluded shores flanking Diamond Head Crater are the perfect place to sunbathe away from the crowds. Surfers catch waves breaking on the reef while snorkelers explore its underwater life. 

KCC Farmers Market.  One of Honolulu’s most beloved farmers markets attracts dozens of vendors and hundreds of visitors each week. Merchants sell locally produced goods including roasted macadamia nuts, raw honey, fresh fruits & vegetables, baked breads & pastries, jars of pickles & preserves, plants & cut flowers. Food stands serve Kona coffee, fruit juices, smoothie bowls, all types of mochi and a range of international street food. The market is held across from Diamond Head Crater every Saturday morning from 7:30-11am. 

Hawaii Kai

Hawaii Kai is an area spanning the southeast coast of O’ahu. It is a bustling area with access to protected bays, coastal formations, pristine beaches, volcanic craters and hiking trails. 

Koko Head.  A volcanic crater with rigorous and scenic hikes along its slopes and a botanical garden spanning its inner crater floor. 

Koko Crater Railway Trail.  Leading up the steep slopes of Koko Crater is an abandoned railway converted into a trail. Hikers use railroad ties like stairs to reach the summit with rewarding views of the island’s volcanic landscape and coastline. It’s a strenuous trek, taking about 30 minutes one way. 

Koko Crater Arch Trail.  Few hikes are as adventurous as the trek to the Koko Crater Arch! Begin by crawling through the Halona Beach lava tube, minding yourself, as it narrows towards the end. Exit the lava tube and scale up the rocky cliffs to reach the crest of the volcanic ridge. A trail leads along the crest to a golden patch of rock. Veer left before the steepest part to approach the arch from the side. 

Koko Crater Botanical Garden.  The floor of Koko Crater is home to a botanical garden with a variety of flora and fauna. A trail loops through groves of plumeria & hibiscus trees, gardens with desert cacti & dry palms and sections of Hawaiian & African plants. Wild mongooses roam free while red-crested cardinals fly between trees.

Hawaii Kai Lookout.  A roadside lookout with picturesque views of Koko Crater. Stop for a photo en route to or from Hanauma Bay. 

Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve.  The eroded crater of an extinct volcano frames the turquoise waters of Hanauma Bay. Beneath its surface are colonies of algae covered rocks, colorful corals and a variety of tropical fish, including endemic species only found here. Snorkel throughout the bay and relax onshore. 

• Good to Know.  Bring your own snorkel gear or rent it at the beach kiosk. Don’t wear fins in shallow waters to avoid kicking algae covered rocks and corals. Wear reef safe sunblock. 

• Tickets.  A limited number of visitors are allowed into the bay between Wednesday and Sunday. Tickets are released by the Department of Parks and Recreation at 7am two days in advance. Tickets often sell out within minutes. Be ready to book and prepare for a back up time and date if sold out.

Sandy Beach.  Aptly named for its golden sand shore, Sandy Beach is a relaxing place to swim, sunbathe and body surf. Pack a picnic or order poke, shaved ice and Hawaiian juices from the parking lot food truck. 

Halona Beach.  A small but adventurous beach nestled between jagged coastal cliffs near the Halona Blowhole. The tide creates a natural wave pool in the beach’s protected cove. A narrow lava tube leads from the beach to the Koko Crater Arch Trail.

Halona Blowhole Lookout.  A seaside lava tube that ferociously sprays seawater into the air during high tide and strong surf. It’s viewable from a roadside parking lot.

Makapu’u.  The far eastern tip of O’ahu is defined by its volcanic ridges, seaside landscapes and beaches. 

• Makapuʻu Beach Park.  Tan sand shores line the turquoise cove of Makapu’u Beach. It’s a popular spot for experienced body surfers and boogie boarders. A lookout on the volcanic cliffs offer sweeping views of the scenic beach and coastline. 

• Makapu’u Lighthouse Trail.  A paved walkway lined with scenic views of distant Hawaiian islands and the deep blue expanse of the Pacific Ocean. The trail ends at a lookout point of Makapu’u Beach and the Makapu’u Lighthouse. 

• Makapu’u Tide Pools.  Sea grasses, small corals and spiky urchins thrive in the shallow tide pools. Tiny fish swim and jump between pools while crabs scurry along lava rocks. Echos of crashing waves reverberate off volcanic cliffs while air rushes through blow holes and lava tubes. 

• Getting Here.  The rocky trail to the tide pools begins beyond the signs at the third lookout point along the Makapu’u Lighthouse Trail. 

China Walls.  The lava rock ledges and seaside cliffs of China Walls are a beloved place amongst locals. Hawaiians gather during golden hour to watch the sunset, vibe to island music, cliff jump and surf. We watched whales spouting and witnessed the green flash as the sun set below the horizon.

Kona Brewing Hawaii Kai.  The beers of Kona Brewing are a staple of the Hawaiian Islands. Their tap house in Hawaii Kai offers pints and flights of exclusive brews, seasonal flavors and drafts like Kona Big Wave or Longboard Lager. Try the pineapple topped Hawaiian pizza or sharable pupus. 

Leonard’s Bakery.  A bakery known for their flavorful Malassadas, a puffy Portuguese donut covered in cinnamon sugar and often filled with a custard or jam. They’re popular across O’ahu. Visit the historic location in Honolulu or their food truck in Hawaii Kai. 

Kailua

Kailua is a large beach town on O’ahu’s Windward Shore with lengthy white sand beaches, small offshore islets, scenic hiking trails and farmers markets. 

Kailua Beach.  Powdery white sand covers Kailua’s lengthy shoreline making it a tranquil place for beach walks and seaside picnics. Turquoise waters and ocean views invite beachgoers in for a swim and kayakers on a voyage to the Moku Islands.

Good to Know.  Beware of Portuguese Man-O-Wars on windy days. 

Moku Islands.  The Mokus are two protected islets and a sanctuary for seabirds, endangered Hawaiian monk seals and green sea turtles. Kayakers can land on Moku Nui, the larger of the two islets. On shore is a small sandy beach and rocky tide pool where sea animals lounge. The conical hillside is covered in burrows from nesting birds. Rent kayaks from Kailua Beach Adventuresfor half or full day excursions.

Lanikai Beach.  Palm trees sway above white sand shores while sunbathers bask in the sunshine. The Moku Islands rise from the turquoise hued waters as waves break beyond the reef. Colorful fish and green sea turtles swim between lively corals as snorkelers drift overhead.  

Lanikai Pillbox Trail.  A short but steep trail leads to a series of graffitied military bunkers perched on the volcanic ridge beyond Lanikai Beach. Lookout points boast picturesque views of the seaside neighborhood below and nearby Moku Islands. The trail continues further along the ridge with views of the island’s rugged interior. 

Good to Know.  Wear sturdy shoes and be cautious of the loose gravel. Park at Kailua Beach and walk to the trail head located at this Map Pin.

Hoʻomaluhia Botanical Garden.  Few places transport visitors to the Jurassic Period like O’ahu’s famed HoʻomaluhiaBotanical Garden. Cloud covered mountains, lush volcanic ridges and dense rainforest characterize the verdant landscape. Nature trails meander through tropical gardens to lakeside lookouts. 

Kailua Farmers Market.  Local vendors set up a weekly farmers market in the Kailua Town Center with a range of produce stands, mobile kitchens and live music. Come here to shop for fresh fruits, vegetables, herbs, baked goods, juices and international meals. The market is held each Thursday from 4-7pm. 

Kalapawai Market.  A chain of “small town markets” located along the Windward Side of O’ahu. Their aisles are stocked with snacks, beverages, beach goods and island decor. The Kailua location prepares sandwiches in their deli while the barista brews a range of hot and iced coffees. 

Ocean Excursions  

Moana’s Sunset Cocktail Sail Along Oahu's Waikiki Coast. Sunsets in Hawaii hit differently, especially on a boat! We boarded a catamaran as the crew served mai tais and margaritas. The boat cruised along the coast with the sail unfurled and Hawaiian music playing. The golden glow of the sun illuminated Waikiki’s skyline and the island’s rugged mountains. The sun began to set as bottlenose dolphins played in the bow waves if a scene from a movie. Book with Moana Sailing Co on Viator. 

Swim with Dolphins on the West Coast of O’ahu.  We joined the crew from Indigo Ocean Hawaii on a half day excursion from Waikiki to swim and snorkel with wild dolphins along Oahu’s Leeward Coast. A playful pod of Spinner Dolphins greeted us in the shallow waters outside of the marina. They porpoised one after another, occasionally jumping from the water and twirling into the air. After an hour at sea, a pod of Spotted Dolphins gathered in the deep open water. With snorkels on, we jumped from the boat and watched as they swam past. On the voyage back to the marina, migrating humpback whales sent spouts of water into the air before rising their tails and diving into the depths. Book on Viator. 

Getting Around

There are multiple ways of getting around O’ahu depending on where you’re staying and everything you plan to see. We primarily explored the city on foot and island by scooter. 

On Foot.  Waikiki is very walkable and an enjoyable way of exploring the neighborhood, getting to the beaches, shopping and discovering restaurants and bars. 

Scooter.  Vespas and Mopeds are the best individual way of getting around Honolulu and coast. We rented a pair of scooters from Waikiki Moped Rental, a reliable and well reviewed shop with affordable options. 

Good to Know.  Scooters are not allowed on the island’s main freeways or inner island highways: H1, H2, H3, 61 & 62. 

Uber.  Ride shares like Uber are ideal for getting between the airport and city as well as across town. Expect airport rides to cost $50 and city rides to cost between $10-$20. 

Rental Car.  Driving is best way to explore all areas of the island on your own time. Rentals, gas and parking are extremely expensive. 

Waikiki Trolly.  A tourist trolly offers routes to around Honolulu and the South Shore of O’ahu. Single and multi-day passes make getting around convenient if not renting a scooter or car. 

Where to Stay

Waikiki is a convent place to stay when visiting Honolulu. Its skyscrapers and beachfront hotels are home to countless vacation rentals and luxury accommodations. We split our time between two locations in Waikiki. 

Waikiki Monarch Hotel.  An apartment complex on the north side of Waikiki with hundreds of vacation rentals. Our comfortable unit had a small kitchen and ocean views. The building is a short walk away from the Waikiki Food Truck Park and Fort DeRussy Beach. Apartments are available for rent on Airbnb. 

Aloha Suites Waikiki.  A small hotel in the center of Waikiki with well equipped apartment rentals. Our unit had a full kitchen, outdoor balcony and high speed wifi. It’s located less than 5 minutes from Waikiki Beach. Apartments are available for rent on both Airbnb and Booking. 

When to Visit 

Early December.  The sweet spot to visit O’ahu is early December between Thanksgiving and Christmas. The crowds are smaller and the temperature is comfortable. Humpback whale begin their migration increasing the chances of seeing them anywhere around the island. 

For Next Time… 

The Hawaiian Islands keep calling us back! On our next trip to Hawaii we plan to rent a car and venture to the North Shore of O’ahu, visit Hawaiian cultural sights and make our way to the islands of Kauai and Maui.

• Haleʻiwa.  A colorful and historic town on the North Shore with small cafes, surf shops, boutiques and markets. 

• Waimea Bay Beach.  A North Shore beach with a large rock, popular for jumping from. It has a calm surf during the summer and big waves during the winter. Dolphins and sea turtles can frequently be spotted off shore.  

• Ko Hana Distillery.  O’ahu’s only sugarcane rum distillery. They offer tours, tastings and cocktails. 

• Pu'u o Mahuka Heiau.  The stone ruins and platforms of an ancient Hawaiian temple. It’s located walking distance from Waimea Bay Beach. 

• Bishop Museum.  Hawaii’s main cultural and natural history museum with Hawaiian artifacts, science exhibits and art galleries. 

A Weekend in Auckland

Auckland, New Zealand

Auckland is a sprawling city on the North Island of New Zealand. It’s a wonderful destination to experience Māori culture, taste local wines at island vineyards and hike an urban volcano. The city’s vibrant neighborhoods and waterfront wharfs provide opportunities for shopping, dining and sightseeing. We spent a weekend exploring Auckland during our adventurous roadtrip of the North Island. 

Neighborhoods & Streets 

Central Business District (CBD).  The downtown neighborhood of Auckland. It’s home to bustling streets, lively waterfront wharfs, historic buildings, multicultural restaurants and shopping arcades. 

Queen Street.  The central street of the CBD. Its historic architecture, small arcades and modern skyscrapers are home to big name stores, luxury brands and kiwi boutiques. Numerous restaurants, cafes and fast food joints offer places to enjoy a quick meal. 

Viaduct Harbour.  A bustling neighborhood centered around a boat dotted marina. Stroll the Māori patterned walkways while admiring the docked sailboats and skyline views. Dine at one of the many contemporary restaurants and harbor side bars. Join locals sunbathing on the tidal steps and splashing into the harbour pool. 

North Wharf.  A lively section of Auckland’s waterfront lined with a mixture of eateries, cafes and bars. Visit Goodluck Coconut, a tiki bar with boozy and flaming cocktails in Polynesian style mugs. 

Karangahape Road (K Road).  A vibrant street offering a mix of grungy cafes, vegan restaurants, vintage shops, tattoo studios, dive bars and lgbtq+ nightlife. A rainbow painted cross walk welcomes visitors to the diverse area.

St. Kevin’s Arcade.  A historic multilevel arcade between K Road and Myers Park. It’s home several cocktail bars, tiny restaurants and vintage shops. Visit Definitely Maybe for late night drinks and inventive cocktails in the candlelit bar.

See the Sights 

Maungawhau (Mount Eden).  The tallest of many dormant volcanos making up Auckland’s volcanic field. Trails and walkways lead to its summit with panoramic views of the city and stunning views of the sunset. A boardwalk leads around the crater rim with views peering into its conical depressions and the remnants of Māori agricultural terraces. The volcano is sacred to the Māori people. It was once the sight of precolonial Māori village and is believed to be home of Mataaho, the Māori guardian of earth’s secrets. 

Auckland Museum.  A museum with exhibits dedicated to the volcanic landscape of Auckland, New Zealand’s natural history and the island’s Māori culture. The volcanic exhibit recounts the island’s formation and ongoing volcanism. The natural history exhibit displays fossils and skeletons of dinosaurs, sea creatures and birds now extinct and native to New Zealand. The Māori exhibit recounts the Polynesian migration across the Pacific and displays objects and tools used to cultivate the land, trap fish and prepare food. 

Māori Cultural Experience.  A powerful cultural performance presented by Māori people. They shared their traditional dances followed by a heartfelt explanation of their meanings. A Māori orator recounts the origins of the Haka and its significance. She explains the movements and body language, the symbolism of their traditional attire and accessories, the meanings behind their tattoos and connection to their ancestry. The performance happens twice daily at the Auckland Museum. 

Good to Know.  Out of reverence for Māori culture and ancestors, photos and videos are not permitted during the performance. 

Auckland Domain.  A large park developed on of an extinct volcano in the middle of Auckland. It’s home to green lawns, treelined walkways, cricket fields, the Auckland Museum and Victorian style Wintergardens. 

Myers Park.  A city park in a valley flanked by skyscrapers. Steep grassy slopes and towering palm trees line a central walkway. 

Albert Park. A beautiful park with tree lined walkways and shaded lawns on a hill near the University of Auckland. It’s a popular spot where college students gather for leisure and study. 

Grafton Gully.  A verdant city park with trails leading through a historic cemetery and beneath an underpass. It’s not the prettiest place but does offer a very unique urban experience. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Ahi.  An elevated restaurant offering contemporary kiwi cuisine made from seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. We built our own tasting menu from their range of snacks, starters and mains. Try the whitebait, octopus, salmon and fire roasted leeks. Reservations are needed. 

Auckland Fish Market.  A market with fish mongers and restaurants serving raw and cooked seafood like pāua, mussels, prawns, whole and filleted fish. Try the “Seafood Heaven” at the Market Galley for an assortment of coconut prawns, snapper fish & chips and salt and pepper squid. Sip on local beers and cocktails from The Wreck. 

Honey Cafe.  A breakfast and brunch spot with an all day menu of sweet and savory dishes like bagels, burgers, toasts, salads and eggs. Try the salmon bagel and pea fritters paired with a long black or flat white.

Daily Bread.  A cafe and bakery with a large spread of pastries, sandwiches and breads. Try the cinnamon roll, peach danish and orange loaf. 

Giapo.  An ice cream shop with exotic flavors and fanciful shaped cones shaped like an octopus, bat or helicopter. Try the Hokey Pokey and Kūmara Orange.

Miann.  A sweets shop with creative pastries and cakes. Try the Triple Chocolatemade to look like a cocoa pod and Cactus Plant Pot, layered with a range of floral, nut and spiced flavors. 

Waiheke Island

A tranquil island home to verdant vineyards and sandy shores. It’s the perfect destination to combine wine tastings with beach time. The island is easily visited on a day trip from Auckland. 

Waiheke Vineyards

Cable Bay Vineyard.  A vineyard with a variety of wines made from grapes grown on the island and in New Zealand’s largest wine producing region, Marlborough. They offer a variety of tastings including their rosé, white and red varieties in their cellar tasting room. 

Wild Estate Vineyard.  A vineyard with an outdoor tasting room next to rows of grape vines. Come here to sip on their full bodied Waiheke Island wines and play lawn games like giant jenga, corn hole and even archery. 

Stoney Ridge Vineyard.  A winemaker specializing in full bodied and premium red wines with grapes grown on the island. Sip on their premium flight while overlooking the grassy valley. Don’t miss the 2021 Larose, regarded as New Zealand’s best wine. 

Batch Winery.  The highest elevation vineyard on the island with views of the hills and bay. Come here to sip on their bubbly  rosé while overlooking the landscape. 

Fullers 360 Ferry.  A ferry operator with routes between Auckland and Waiheke Island. Book their Western Explorer pass which includes a hop on hop off bus ticket around the western side of the island. It includes wine tastings at three vineyards. 

Beaches & Restaurants

Oneroa Beach.  A wide crescent shaped beach covered in sea shells. It’s a relaxing place to listen to the waves and walk along the shore. 

Ki Māna.  A seaside restaurant overlooking Onetangi Beach. Their menu offers elevated seafood dishes and local wines from near by vineyards. Try the oysters, fried snapper wings and crawfish rolls.

Location Specifics 

Language.  English is the most commonly spoken language in New Zealand. Māori is frequently written on street and road signs.  

Cash vs Card.  Credit card is accepted for virtually every payment. We did not need to use cash once.

Carry Your ID.  When ordering alcohol, be prepared to show your passport to verify your age. 

The Guardian.  The former stock exchange building converted into a mixed used residence with apartment rentals. It’s located in the CBD on Queen Street nearby restaurants, cafes and shops. Book on Airbnb. 

Elsewhere on the North Island

There is so much to see on New Zealand’s North Island outside of Auckland. We spent several days roadtripping between the lake towns of Rotorua and Taupō. We visited geothermal parks, hiked volcanic landscapes, white water rafted, tubed through glowworm caves, canopied in redwood forests and ate second breakfast at Hobbiton. 

For Next Time…

With more time in Auckland, we’d continue venturing outside of the city center to different neighborhoods, beaches and natural sights. 

Devonport.  A neighborhood continually recommended to us for its cute vibes, cafe culture, beaches and volcano hikes. 

Piha Beach.  A black sand beach on the western shore of the North Island with nearby hikes and lookout points.  

Little Palm Beach.  A clothing optional beach on Waiheke Island accessible via a forested walking trail

Stanmore Bay.  A beach town north of Auckland famed for its bioluminescent waves lapping on shore at night. 

Taupō, New Zealand

Taupō, New Zealand

Taupō is a picturesque town set along the shores of Lake Taupō on New Zealand’s North Island. The region is encompasses volcanic landscapes, geothermal parks and scenic waterfalls. It’s a hub for outdoor activities and adventures like white water rafting, sailing and volcano hikes. Taupō is deeply intertwined with Māori culture with murals, monuments and carvings visible throughout the town. 

See the Sights

Lake Taupō.  A massive volcanic crater lake and the largest lake in New Zealand. Scenic walking and biking paths follow its waterfront. Floating pumice stones and aquatic birds line its shores. Views of distant volcanos and their snow covered peaks can be seen across the lake on a clear day. 

Māori Rock Carvings.  A series of modern Māori rock carvings engraved onto the face of a lakeside cliff. The primary carving depicts the tattooed face of a Māori being. It’s flanked by numerous smaller carvings including a lizard, mermaid and dragon. The carvings are only viewable from the lake. We sailed across the scenic Lake Taupō on a vintage sailboat to see them up close. Book with Sail Barbary for a relaxing and enjoyable time. 

Te Atea Tapuaeharuru.  A monument representing Māori ancestry and jurisdiction of Lake Taupō. At its center is an ornate pillar carved from an 1,800 year old Totara tree. The pillar is adorned with designs of Māori guardians and marine life. Surrounding it are 13 patterned columns symbolic of the rivers flowing into the lake. Press a button on each of their sides to activate a cascading water feature. 

Huka Falls.  A narrow channel along the Waikato River with extremely turbulent rapids and a ferocious waterfall. The current churns up brilliant aquamarine hues and bubbling white waters. It’s viewable from a bridge and riverside pathway.

Otumuheke Stream.  A narrow stream fed by a hot spring. It flows into the Waikato River creating a tepid pool along its banks. It was too cold for us but others enjoyed. 

Mount Tauhara.  A dormant volcano near the shores of Lake Taupō with a summitable peak. A hiking trail leads steadily uphill through farmland and shaded forest home to song birds and endemic ferns. It opens at a clearing near the summit and continues along the ridge through dense shrubs to a rocky outcrop. The mountaintop offers panoramic views of its forested slopes, grassy farmland, the vast lake and distant snow covered volcanos.  

Good to Know.  Strong gusts can make it extremely windy at the summit. It takes about an hour to reach from the parking lot. Use this map pin for parking. 

Craters of the Moon.  A geothermal park with dozens of steaming craters, mud pools and blow holes. Boardwalks lead through the volcanic scrubland and low laying manuka trees as steam billows from the ground. It’s a leisurely trek taking about an hour.

Wairakei Terraces & Thermal Health Spa.  A geothermal spa with terraced hot pools fed by a manmade geyser. The mineral rich waters offer a therapeutic way to relax after a day of hiking. The Terrace Walk includes views of the geyser, silica terraces, native flora and reproductions of a Māori Village. Signs share information about Māori stories and culture. 

Taupō Town Center.  A small but lively neighborhood of Taupō with breweries, restaurants, bakeries, clothing shops, cute boutiques and outdoor outfitters. Side alleys are painted with colorful murals. Its waterfront has scenic views of the lake. 

Tongariro Alpine Crossing

The Tongario Alpine Crossing is a scenic day hike through an active volcanic landscape. The Northern Circuit leads 20.2km past hardened lava flows, dramatic volcanos, craters, thermal vents, blue lagoons and waterfalls. 

The Timber Trail.  A scenic uphill trail leading several kilometers through rugged moorlands covered in short bushes, dry grasses and pale green mosses. The landscape transitions into a barren desert with hardened lava flows, black sand and snowy crevices. The trail offers closeup views of Mt Ngauruhoe, aka Mt Doom.

Soda Springs.  A small waterfall cascading over algae covered lava rock. It’s reachable from an offshoot of The Timber Trail.

Mt Ngauruhoe (Mt Doom).  A conical shaped strata volcano and one of the most iconic features of the Tongariro Crossing. Its slopes are covered in craggily black lava rock from past eruptions while its crater still steam still faintly dunes from its crater. The volcano is nicknamed Mt Doom after its appearance in Lord of the Rings. 

South Crater.  A vast volcanic crater with imposing views of Mt Ngauruhoe. The timber trail leads across its flat sandy basin to a steep ridge and The Red Crater. 

The Red Crater.  A dramatic volcanic crater marking the highest point of the Tongariro Crossing. The crater is scorched black and colored deep rusty red around the point where lava previously erupted. The crater is still highly active. Rippled air and steam rises from the super heated ground within. 

Emerald Lakes.  A series of brightly colored turquoise lagoons surrounded by barren volcanic landscape and steaming vents. They’re viewable from the Red Crater and reachable vis a steep gravel trail.

Blue Lake.  A large crater with a deep blue lake filling its basin. It’s the perfect spot to stop for a scenic picnic lunch before making the descent. 

Central Crater.  A large crater surrounded by several volcanic features including The Red Crater, Mt Tongariro, Emerald Lake and Blue Lake. A hardened lava flow from past eruptions spills into the basin of the crater. 

Mt Tongariro.  A blackened lava plateau flanked by craggily slopes and white snow filled crevices. 

Ketetahi Track.  A downhill trail meandering several kilometers past colorful shrubs, pine trees and subtropical forest. It offers views of lakes, steaming craters and small waterfalls. 

Te Maari Crater.  A still steaming volcanic crater on the Ketetahi Track. Hardened lava flows and ballistic craters formed by ejected rocks are visible from its 2012 eruption. 

Getting Here. Drive to and park at the Tongariro Crossing Car Park. Book a shuttle to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing trail head to begin the hike. The 20.2km trail ends back at the car park. Book the shuttle with Backyard Tours on Viator. 

Tips for Hiking The Tongariro Alpine Crossing:

• Check weather before hiking

• Bring 2 liters of water per person 

• Pack snacks and a lunch for the trail 

• Wear warm removable layers 

• Hiking poles are helpful for the downhill

• Wear sunblock and sunglasses 

• Toilets are available every several kilometers

• Bring toilet paper and hand sanitizer 

Taranaki Falls.  A 20m tall waterfall streaming from a narrow crevice into the rocky pool below. The waterfall is accessible midway along a 6km loop trail. The trail passes through scrubland with scenic views of Mount Ruapehu’s snow capped summit and Mt Ngauruhoe’s conical profile. 

Tawhai Falls (Gollum’s Waterfall).  A small but picturesque waterfall flowing over a diagonal cliff into a turquoise river pool. The location was used to film Gollum’s fishing scene in Lord of the Rings. It’s possible to swim here however the water is frigid. 

Orakei Korako Cave and Thermal Park

A geothermal park with a range of boiling geysers, bubbling streams, colorful mineral flows, mud pools and a rare thermal cave. Wooden boardwalks lead between the geothermal features and through the forested hillside past manuka trees, bushy ferns and moss covered rocks. Take a boat across the Waikato River from the welcome center to access the park. 

The Rainbow Terrace.  A geothermal feature with streaming flows of boiling water and mineral rich sediment. Colorful patterns paint the earth in shades of orange, red, brown and white.

The Devil’s Throat.  A small red cave spewing boiling water and steam towards the Rainbow Terrace.   

Rautapu Cave.  One of only two geothermal caves in the world. Its large rocky opening exposes a bubbling emerald pool at its base and steaming vents along its sides.

Mud Pools.  A bubbling series of clay pools with sections of turquoise blue water. 

Tongariro River Rafting

White water rafting is an exhilarating way to enjoy New Zealand’s landscapes and wildlife! We paddled down the Tongariro River through 60 grade 3 rapids with Tongariro River Rafting. The river offers a continuous roller coaster of white water rapids, technical challenges and leisurely cascades. The scenic adventure passes overgrown and sheer rock cliffs, black sand beaches and smooth volcanic boulders. Trout swam beneath the raft while aquatic birds floated by. A brief stop afforded us an opportunity to jump from a small cliff into the frigid water. The water is so fresh that we could drink directly from the stream. 

Māori & Kiwi Cuisine 

New Zealand Pies.  Personal sized pies with a flaky crust and filled with a range of savory ingredients like vegetables, meats and seafoods are common across New Zealand. They’re often served at cafes and fast food restaurants. 

Ika Mata.  Raw fish marinated in coconut cream with tomatoes and scallions. 

Paua.  A type of sea snail native to the waters of New Zealand. It’s served raw, sautéed, in soups and fritters.

Fish & Chips.  A classic pairing of fried fish and potatoes. It’s common among current and former British territories. 

Kumara. A yellow potato with a slightly sweet flavor and starchy texture. It’s often served as fried with fish and chips. 

Manuka Tea.  A herbal black tea with a pine forward flavor. It’s made from the leaves of a bushy evergreen tree. 

Manuka Honey.  Bush honey, famed for its antibiotic properties, made by bees that pollinate the manuka trees. 

Toasties.  Buttered and griddled white bread sandwiches often served at breakfast.

Places to Eat & Drink

Crafty Trout Brewery.  A cozy brewery in the center of Taupō with a range of traditional and flavored brews. Order a paddle of 9 to share and try almost everything of tap.

Kona Kones.  An ice cream shop with a range of classic and creative flavors. Try the boysenberry and coconut marshmallow.

Paetiki Bakery Cafe.  A self serve cafe stocked with dozens of fresh baked New Zealand pies and pastries. Try the vegetarian, smoked fish and paua pies. 

Brumby’s Bakery.  A bakery with fresh baked breads, sweets and New Zealand pies.

Where to Stay

Taupō Airbnb.  A backyard tiny house with a comfy bedroom, fully equipped kitchen and outdoor patio. It’s located near Taupō’s city center and natural sights. Book here. 

Location Specifics 

Language.  English is the most commonly spoken language in New Zealand. Māori is frequently written on street and road signs.  

Cash vs Card.  Credit card is accepted for virtually every payment. We did not need to use cash once.

Carry Your ID.  When ordering alcohol, be prepared to show your passport to verify your age. 

Rental Cars.  We rented a car with Auto Union at the Auckland airport. The agency has affordable rates and hundreds of positive reviews. 

Drive on the Left.  Like many former British colonies, New Zealanders drive on the left side of the road.

Elsewhere on the North Island 

There is so much to see on New Zealand’s North Island. We spent several days roadtripping between the lake towns of Rotorua and Taupō followed by a weekend in the metropolis of Auckland. We visited geothermal parks, hiked volcanic landscapes, white water rafted, tubed through glowworm caves, canopied in redwood forests and ate second breakfast at Hobbiton.

For Next Time…

Visit the South Island.  Seeing the snow covered mountains of the South Island from our airplane window left us with major sense of fomo. When we return, we plan to spend at least two weeks exploring the South Island. 

• Fiordland National Park.  A glacier carved fjord flanked by forested mountains and rugged mountains. 

• Lake Tekapo.  A bright blue lake surrounded by scenic views snow covered mountains and springtime blooms of lupin flowers. 

• Tasman Glacier.  A glacier with a turquoise lagoon and floating icebergs at its leading edge. 

Rotorua, New Zealand

Rotorua, New Zealand

Rotorua is a scenic lakeside town on New Zealand’s North Island. Its home to active geothermal features, towering redwood forests and outdoor adventure parks. Its a magical destination, with nearby glowworm caves and the mythical film set of Hobbiton adding to its allure. Māori cultural experiences provide deep insight into the traditions of the island’s first peoples. 

See the Sights 

Lake Rotorua.  A picturesque lake filling the caldera of an ancient volcano. The lake is lined by a scenic board walk, forested nature trails and geothermal activity. Its inhabited by families of black swans, ducks, geese and other aquatic birds.

• Sulphur Point.  A geothermal bay on Lake Rotorua with milky blue water, bubbling mud pools, steam vents and sulphur deposits. It’s a nesting place for various gulls. Trails with picturesque views lead along its edge.

• Te Arawa War Canoe.  A Māori war canoe preserved in a protected shelter near Lake Rotorua. The large canoe is carved from a 1,500 year old tree and adorned in carved faces of Māori beings to navigate and guide the Māori people. 

Kuirau Park.  A city park with hot springs, steaming vents, bubbling pools and a geothermal lagoon. Come here to stroll the Manukatree lined paths and boardwalks. Stop to plunge your legs in thermal foot baths fed by naturally heated spring water. 

Government Gardens.  A public garden with floral beds, bowling fields used by cricketers, Māori sculptures and cultural landmarks, steaming thermal vent, vibrant hot springs and historic wooden buildings.

Outdoor Adventure Parks 

Redwoods Whakarewarewa Forest.  A redwood forest with towering redwood trees and elevated adventure courses. Trails lead through the forest past larger than life redwoods, leafy ferns and mossy patches. Spend a couple hours here walking the trails and canopying in the trees. We hiked the 3.4km Waitawa Walk by day returned for the night trek in the Redwoods Treewalk.

Redwoods Treewalk.  A series of elevated suspension bridges and platforms built between the massive trunks of the redwood trees. The evening treewalk is a magical experience. Suspended lanterns dimly glow throughout redwood forest while colorful lights illuminate the below fern trees. 

Redwoods Altitude.  An elevated adventure course with zip lines and unique suspension bridges meandering between the trunks of the forest’s oldest redwoods. A spiral staircase leads up the trunk of a redwood while a repelling jump descends back to the ground. 

Skyline Rotorua.  An adventure park with cable cars, extreme mountain biking, zip lines and lugeing courses built on the slopes of Mount Ngongotaha. It’s reachable via a 900 meter long gondola with views of Lake Rotorua and the city below. The park also includes low energy activities include wine tastings at the Stratosfare Restaurant and nature walks through the fern covered forest. 

Skyline Luge.  A gravity fueled luge course with multiple routes, downhill straightaways, steep curves and illuminated tunnels. Race small carts to the bottom, ride the lift up and repeat. It’s an exciting activity made for all ages. Buy tickets that included at least two rides.

Geothermal Sights & Parks

Waiotapu Thermal Wonderland

The Waiotapu Thermal Wonderland is a vast geothermal park featuring eruptive geysers, colorful hot springs, acidic lakes, steaming vents and bubbling mud pools. Scenic walkways traverse the park’s many sights. 

Champagne Pool.  A large hot spring named after its small bubbles and fizzing noises resembling a glass of champagne. Mineral deposits line the edge of the pool graduating inwards from white to yellow, orange and green. Steam rises from its surface, wafting gaseous clouds and the occasional vortex. 

Artist’s Palette.  A colorful basin created by mineral deposits and overflowing water from the Champagne Pool. The palette displays bright yellow, rusty orange, turquoise blue, aquamarine, bone white, beige and brown colors. The colors change based on viewing angles and amount of sunlight.

Roto Kārikitea.  A neon green colored acid pool formed by runoff from the Champagne Pools. 

The Craters.  A series of collapsed thermal vents with boiling mud pools, sulphuric deposits and steaming gases. They’re some of the first sights when entering the geothermal park. 

The Mud Pools.  An area with multiple bubbling mud pools, stinky gases and blobs of floating crude oil. 

Nature Walks.  A series of trails winds through forested hillsides, offering sweeping views of the landscape, its geothermal features and endemic plants. Routes pass through the park’s most active thermal areas, showcasing acidic lakes, bubbling hot springs, steaming vents, sulfuric caves and waterfalls.

Lady Knox Geyser.  A white geyser with a steaming conical vent resembling a miniature volcano. The geyser is “induced” to erupt each morning as a Māori woman sings. A growing fountain of bubbling water slowly flows forth followed by a towering jet of steam reaching 20 meters in height. Arrive by 9:30am to get a front row seat in the outdoor amphitheater.

Kerosene Creek.  A forested creek fed by a thermal hot spring with spa-like river pools and small waterfalls. Soak in warm waters and jacuzzi-like falls while admiring the serene surrounding nature. Park here and hike in. 

Waimangu Volcanic Valley

The Waimangu Volcanic Valley is a geothermal area created by a dramatic eruption in 1886. Trails lead through the valley past views of volcanic craters, large hot springs, boiling rivers, sputtering geysers and steaming vents. 

The Crater Track.  A nature walk with scenic views of the valley’s largest volcanic features like crater lakes, colorful silica terraces, steaming rock pinnacles, hot streams and lush landscapes. 

The Terrace Track.  A trail following hot and cold streams lined with orange and white hued silica terraces. Sputtering vents emit hot steam and boiling water along the stream’s edges and terraces surfaces. 

Wetland Trail.  A trail leading through wetlands populated by native plants and aquatic birds. It ends at Lake Rotomahana with views of the Tarawera Volcano. 

The Waitomo Glowworm Cave

The Waitomo Glowworm Cave is a subterranean habitat home to colonies of bioluminescent glowworms. The best way to see the glowworms is by blackwater rafting through the cave’s underground river. It’s a truly magical experience coupled with a unique sense of adventure! 

Black Water Rafting (Black Labyrinth).  We geared up with wetsuits, boots, helmets, headlamps and inner tubes to enter the cave. Guides led us through a crevice into a series of narrow passageways and flooded chambers. We jumped from small waterfalls and floated deeper underground as cold water rushed around us. Thousands of glowworms glittered above our heads in a brilliant display of bioluminescence. Greenish blue dots illuminated the darkness of the cave like stars in the night sky. Book here!

Good to Know.  Personal cameras are not allowed in the cave to maintain participant safety. The rule forces you to live in the moment and appreciate the beauty. Photos can be purchased after the tour. 

Hobbiton Movie Set

Hobbiton is the fictional movie set built for the Lord of the Rings and Hobbit Trilogies. The whimsical village spans a verdant hillside of a functioning sheep farm. Dirt walkways meander past “hobbit holes” built into the faces of grassy mounds. Round doorways and tiny windows peer inside. Flower and veggie gardens sprout beyond wooden picket fences. Smoke rises from brick chimneys poking out of the hilltops. Guided tours include stops at iconic film sights like Bag End, The Party Field, Bagshot Row and The Green Dragon Inn. 

Bag End.  The famed “hobbit hole” home to Bilbo and Frodo. It’s built into the top of grassy hill beneath a large tree. Its green painted round door is left slightly ajar as if inviting guests in for afternoon tea. 

Party Field.  A grassy field in the middle of Hobbiton where Bilbo’s 111th birthday party is held. Ride the teeter totter or play lawn games like quoits.

Bagshot Row.  A lovely row of intricately designed “hobbit holes.” Beyond their round doors is a series of meticulously designed wooden tunnels, cozy chambers and warmly lit rooms with hobbit sized furniture, Shire decor, working fireplaces and numerous hidden easter eggs. 

Second Breakfast Tour.  A specialty tour of Hobbiton based on the beloved concept of “second breakfast.” The tour includes a feast worthy of respectable hobbits or a company of dwarfs. A vast dining table within The Millhouse is covered in spreads of fresh baked scones, muffins, breads and pastries. Dishes are plated with a variety of cheeses, meats, fruits and eggs. Vegan sausage, tofu, mushrooms and potatoes can be requested for vegetarians. Carafes sit on the side with teas, coffee and juices 

The Green Dragon Inn.  A warm and cozy shire pub and gathering place for hobbits and dwarfs. Come here to sit around a roaring fireplace with a “tankard” of locally brewed beer made especially for Hobbiton! 

Good to Know.  A majority of the hobbit holes are not actually accessible. Bag End only recently opened a gives a true glimpse into the life of the hobbits. 

Pro Tip.  Book tours directly through Hobbiton Movie Set Tours up to 10 months in advance! 

Māori & Kiwi Cuisine 

New Zealand Pies.  Personal sized pies with a flaky crust and filled with a range of savory ingredients like vegetables, meats and seafoods are common across New Zealand. They’re often served at cafes and fast food restaurants. 

Ika Mata.  Raw fish marinated in coconut cream with tomatoes and scallions. 

Paua.  A type of sea snail native to the waters of New Zealand. It’s served raw, sautéed, in soups and fritters.

Fish & Chips.  A classic pairing of fried fish and potatoes. It’s common among current and former British territories. 

Kumara. A yellow potato with a slightly sweet flavor and starchy texture. It’s often served as fried with fish and chips. 

Manuka Tea.  A herbal black tea with a pine forward flavor. It’s made from the leaves of a bushy evergreen tree. 

Manuka Honey.  Bush honey, famed for its antibiotic properties, made by bees that pollinate the manuka trees.

Toasties.  Buttered and griddled white bread sandwiches often served at breakfast. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Eat Street.  A pedestrian street in the center of Rotorua with restaurants, bars and nightly live music. Come here to eat drink and be merry!

• The Fainting Goat.  A restaurant on Eat Street with a menu of shareable plates, house brewed beers and New Zealand gins. Try the salt and pepper squid, tarakihi fish tostadas and pumpkin frites with truffle honey. 

• Brew Craft Beer Pub.  A pub on Eat Street with fried snacks, pizzas, burgers and local beers. 

• Lady Jane’s Ice Cream.  An ice cream shop on Eat Street with dozens of classic and local flavors. Try the Black Doris Plum and Hokey Pokey, honey toffee in vanilla ice cream. 

Kai Caff Aye.  A restaurant specializing in traditional Māori cuisine. Come here for Kai Moana (sea food). Try the chowder of Paua (sea snail) in a pocket of fry bread and Ika Mata.

Devon Sea Foods.  A takeaway seafood kitchen with fish & chips, fish burgers and  other fresh caught New Zealand fish meals. Try the Tarakihi Fish with Kumara Chips.

Where to Stay

Rotoroa Airbnb.  A ground floor apartment in a home with a small kitchenette. It’s close to the city’s geothermal sights and walking distance to cafes and restaurants. Book here.

Location Specifics 

Language.  English is the most commonly spoken language in New Zealand. Māori is frequently written on street and road signs.  

Cash vs Card.  Credit card is accepted for virtually every payment. We did not need to use cash once.

Carry Your ID.  When ordering alcohol, be prepared to show your passport to verify your age. 

Rental Cars.  We rented a car with Auto Union at the Auckland airport. The agency has affordable rates and hundreds of positive reviews. 

Drive on the Left.  Like many former British colonies, New Zealanders drive on the left side of the road. 

Elsewhere on the North Island 

There is so much to see on New Zealand’s North Island. We spent several days roadtripping between the lake towns of Rotorua and Taupō followed by a weekend in the metropolis of Auckland. We visited geothermal parks, hiked volcanic landscapes, white water rafted, tubed through glowworm caves, canopied in redwood forests and ate second breakfast at Hobbiton.

For Next Time…

Visit the South Island.  Seeing the snow covered mountains of the South Island from our airplane window left us with major sense of fomo. When we return, we plan to spend at least two weeks exploring the South Island. 

• Fiordland National Park.  A glacier carved fjord flanked by forested mountains and rugged mountains. 

• Lake Tekapo.  A bright blue lake surrounded by scenic views snow covered mountains and springtime blooms of lupin flowers. 

• Tasman Glacier.  A glacier with a turquoise lagoon and floating icebergs at its leading edge. 

Cappadocia, Turkey

A Fairytale in Cappadocia 

Cappadocia’s fairytale landscapes and ancient wonders make it a dreamy and adventurous destination. Romantic towns with cave hotels and rooftop terraces attract all types of travelers. Fairy chimneys and hot air balloons rise from picturesque valleys. Hiking trails meander across the landscape speckled with historic cave dwellings and underground cities. Turkish wines and cuisine are sipped on and savored at local restaurants. We spent a week leisurely exploring Cappadocia by car. 

Cappadocia’s Romantic Towns 

Göreme.  A picturesque town built into the rock structures and fairy chimneys rising from the landscape. It’s home to cave hotels, rooftop cafes, Persian rug stores and souvenir shops. Colorful hot air balloons rise above the landscape in the early morning. Its carved stone structures are illuminated in a warmly lit glow by night. 

Uchisar.  One of Cappadocia’s most picturesque towns. Its fairytale landscapes are comprised of rock fortresses, cave dwellings and rugged valleys. Cobblestone streets lead between terraced stone buildings home to boutique hotels, Turkish restaurants, wine bars and souvenir shops. It’s a surprisingly quiet place to stay and far less touristy than nearby towns. 

Nar.  A quiet town in an off the beaten path location. It’s driving distance from Cappadocia’s main sights and nearby towns of Uchisar and Göreme. It offers visitors affordable options for staying in traditionally expensive cave hotels.  

Hot Air Balloons 

Göreme Sunrise / Sunset Viewpoint.  The ridge above Göreme offers panoramic views of the city and the surrounding valleys. It’s a popular spot to watch hot air balloons take flight at sunrise. Dozens of balloons rise from the valley and float above the landscape like a scene from a fairytale. Later in the day, the golden rays of the sunset radiate across the landscape. Twinkling lights illuminate the city and its fairy chimneys in a warm glow as night falls. Use this map pin to find the location. 

Good to Know.  There is a small cash fee to access the road leading to the viewpoints.

Hot Air Balloon Tours & Cancellations.  Cappadocia is famed for its sunrise hot air balloon flights over its picturesque valleys. We booked a tour with Discovery Balloons about 6 months in advance. Unfortunately all balloon flights were canceled 3 days in a row due to high winds. We were refunded without the option of rescheduling and opted out of rebooking due to up-charges related to the increased demand from cancellations. For reference, prices increased from €259 to €400 per person. 

The Ancient Cave Dwellings  

Uchisar Castle.  An ancient citadel comprised of cave dwellings, wineries, tunnels and tombs carved deep into the town’s tallest peak. Much of it has eroded and collapsed over the millennia yet it remains one of the most culturally significant sights in the region. Hike the trials leading around its foothills and visit the castle’s summit viewpoint.

Uchisar Castle Foothills.  The slopes surrounding Uchisar Castle are lined with meandering trails that weave uphill into its abandoned cave dwellings and excavated fairy chimneys. Inside are cavernous rooms with stairwells, upper levels, dovecotes and red painted patterns. Windows offer views of the vast landscape and neighboring fairy chimneys, which feel more like ancient skyscrapers. 

Uchisar Castle Viewpoint.  A stairwell leads to the summit of the craggily castle with views of the surrounding towns, valleys and fairy chimneys. Buy tickets as early as 7:30am and visit before 9am to avoid the crowds. 

Good to Know.  Some of the most picturesque views of the castle are from the foothills during the mid afternoon. Many people stop for a roadside photo however few venture onto the trails.

How to Visit.  The trails are free to hike and by far the most adventurous way to experience castle. Start hiking at the Uchisar Photo Spot and work your way around and upwards to the castle and its surrounding fairy chimneys. 

Tiraz Castle.  A rock formation with a series of cave dwellings carved into its tuff structure. The castle is surrounded by terraced gardens, fairy chimneys and picturesque views of the Pigeon Valley. 

Derinkuyu Underground City.  A vast underground city dating back to the 8th Century BCE. Narrow stairwells and carved passageways lead to a maze of subterranean chambers and levels. Tunnels lead to chambers used as living quarters, churches, tombs, for food storage, wine making and housing livestock. A ventilation shaft tunnels vertically between the levels, supplying air deep underground. Stone wheels could be used to seal off passageways in times of invasion.

Good to Know. Several levels of the underground city can be explored while many levels and passages remain closed. It takes an hour to fully explore. Arrive by 9am to avoid the crowds. 

Explore the Open Air Museums 

Zelve Open Air Museum.  An archeological and geological sight comprised of ancient villages, cave dwellings and fairy chimneys. The valleys are connected by a circuit of trails that offer views of the ruins and opportunities to explore inside of them. 

Zelve Valley 1.  The first valley was once a robust community comprised of homes, wineries, grain mills and early churches. Many interiors feature scorched ceilings from ovens and cooking fires. 

• The Mill.  An exposed dwelling with a large grinding wheel, likely pulled by animal, used to grind grains into flour.

• The Winery.  A series of rooms with large basins used for crushing grapes and channels funneling juice to collection tanks.

Zelve Valley 2.  The second valley was mostly residential with spacious cave dwellings, red painted designs and an early Christian church.

• Cave Dwellings.  Excavated homes include interconnected chambers and functional spaces like in-floor ovens, wine making vats, built in shelves and exterior windows. 

• Church of the Holy Cross.  An early Christian church carved into the rock valley. The arched nave features stylized crosses, a central pulpit, wine making chamber and in floor tombs. 

Zelve Valley 3.  The third valley is the largest and most developed. It features a central square, mosque, stables and hundreds of dovecotes. 

• The Mosque.  A carved and cut stone mosque topped with a four pillared minaret, characteristic of the early Ottoman period. 

• Dovecotes.  Rock cut niches carved high into the cliffs made to house pigeons. They’re decorated with mystical patterns representing good fortune and prosperity. 

Göreme Open Air Museum.  A monastic valley with dozens carved churches, refectories and tombs built into the rock. Vivid frescos of biblical scenes and red painted patterns adorn the walls and vaulted ceilings of multiple churches. Large stone tables mimic the Last Supper in refectories. Tombs line the floors of pitted crypts, some with skeletal remains. 

• Pro Tip.  Most ruins date back to the 11th Century, making the well preserved ones even more significant. Don’t miss the Apple Church, Sandel Church and St. Basil’s Church. 

• Good to Know.  Photos are prohibited inside of most ruins. The best preserved church, The Dark Church, costs an additional €6 after you’ve already paid to enter the valley. The valley is easily accessible and gets very busy.

Hike Through The Valleys 

Love Valley.  A valley famed for its towering fairy chimneys resembling phallic shapes. Clusters of vertical stone columns are capped with pointed tips rising from the landscape.  Love Valley Panoramic Lookout Point offers picturesque views of the valley while trails lead into it and around its unique rock formations. Use this map pin to find the viewpoint. 

The Love Valley Foot Path leads from the Love Garden Cafe to the floor of the valley. Walk through the garden and down carved steps to reach the main trail. The trail leads meanders to the best clusters of fairy chimneys.

Pigeon Valley.  A valley named after thousands of dovecotes carved into its stone walls and conical rock formations. Roadside lookouts offer views of the valley while trails meander between cave dwellings, fruiting groves and hidden caves. 

• The Dovecotes.  Eroded houses built into the hillside reveal interior walls and carved niches once occupied by nesting pigeons. The interiors of some abandoned cave dwellings can be explored. Climb through openings into the cavernous chambers of multilevel houses. 

• Valley Groves.  The center of the valley was once cultivated by its former inhabitants. Olive trees, grape vines and sage bushes still grow wild. Depending on the season, you can forage for grapes and dried raisins. 

• Hidden Caves.  Natural caves carved by flowing water stretch beneath the landscape and cave dwellings. Get off the trail to explore their dark tunneling expanses. 

• Getting Here.  Start hiking from the Pigeon Valley Parking Lot. Hike into the valley, stopping midway at the Tiraz Castle or continuing onto the town of Göreme.

Red Valley.  A picturesque valley covered in hundreds of red hued fairy chimneys, layered cliffs and hiking trails. Pathways cut across its grassy plateaus and descend to the craggily rock formations and jagged pinnacles. Inside many are abandoned cave dwellings with multilevel chambers and remnants of patterned plaster. 

Getting Here.  Start at the Panoramic Viewpoint and descend into the valley on foot. 

Good to Know.  Many people come for the roadside view while the valley itself is little visited. It’s the perfect place to enjoy nature and escape the tourist crowds. 

Pro Tip.  Come here to camp! People frequently tent overnight inside the valley and its ancient stone dwellings.

Sword Valley.  A picturesque valley with fragmented fairy chimneys, meandering trails and carved churches and tombs. Come here to hike and explore the ruins. Inside some are exposed tombs, painted patterns and Christian images made from ochre, saffron and white pigments. 

Pro Tip. The valley is free to explore though sparsely visited. It’s accessible from the parking lot of the Göreme Open Air Museum.

Paşabağ Valley (Monk's Valley).  A valley with walkways leading between tall fairy chimneys and ruins of centuries old cave dwellings. Explore their inner chambers then hike to the lookout point with views of the valley, its stone pillars and their conical tops. 

Pro Tip.  The ticket from the Zelve Open Air Museum included access to Paşabağ Valley.

Devrent Vadisi (Imagination Valley).  A valley comprised of rock formations that resemble silhouettes of animals. The most recognizable figure is that of a bactrian camel. Trails lead from the roadside viewpoint past formations that resemble seals, lizards, falcons, dogs and other imaginative forms.

Rose Valley.  A rugged valley named after its pinkish hued landscape. Tooth shaped fairy chimneys and ribbon like bands of eroded rock cover the valley. Hiking trails weave along its ridges and across its floor. Visit during golden hour when the sunlight makes the structures appear most pink the stick around for the sunset. 

Good to Know.  There are several viewpoint however the Rose Valley Sunset Point offers the best views. 

Ihlara Valley.  A river canyon flanked by vertical rock cliffs and the ruins of over one hundred cliffside churches. The valley offers a combination of scenic nature and archeological sightseeing. Hiking trails follow the river with pathways branching off to 9th century churches. Their conditions range from collapsed ruins to carved chambered with colorful and well preserved frescos. 

Ihlara Cave Churches: 

• Daniel Pantonassa Church.  An elaborately decorated church with colorful and well preserved frescos of biblical scenes. It has the best frescos in the valley. 

• Purenli Seki Chuch.  A partially collapsed church with painted frescos still visible on its arched doorway. 

• Kokar Church.  A two chambered church with colorful frescos of biblical scenes and exposed in floor tombs. 

• Dark Castle Church.  A large monastery with scorched ceilings and surfaces. Arched passageways lead to grand chambers and burial crypts. 

• The Serpent Church.  A church with a singular nave and a burial crypt. Detailed and deteriorating frescos depicting biblical scenes cover its surfaces.

• Karagedik Church.  The ruins of a built church collapsed by a fallen boulder. Some arches with frescos remain visible amongst the rubble. 

• Janinth Church. A two level church built into the cliffside with a chiseled stone facade. An archway leads to its internal chambers and tombs. 

Diker Aile Çay Bahçesi.  A riverside cafe with a series of Persian tea houses lining its banks. 

Getting Here. Enter the valley from the Welcome Center, hiking counterclockwise along the river, crossing its bridges and visiting the ruins. Plan to spend at least a half day here. 

Turkish Cuisine 

Testi Kebab (Pottery Kebab).  Cappadocia’s famed kebab cooked inside a clay jar and cracked open with a large knife. It’s often made with meats, vegetables and spice then eaten with bread. 

Sultan’s Delight.  A savory roasted eggplant dish cooked with a cheesy roux. 

Etli Biber Dolmas.  A Turkish style of stuffed peppers filled with seasoned riced and boiled. It’s served hot or cold.

Simit.  A sesame seeded ring shaped pastry similar to a bagel. It’s commonly eaten at breakfast with coffee. 

Börek.  A snaked together flaky pastry stuffed with savory or sweet fillings. Try the spinach and cheese version. 

Döner Kebap.  A Turkish style sandwich made from slices of rotisserie grilled meat combined with veggies in a pita. 

Manti.  A small Turkish style noodle or dumpling.

Pide.  A ovular boat shaped pastry cradling a pool of melted cheese. It’s common on menus across the country.

Turkish Coffee.  Finely ground coffee slowly brewed in a long handed copper pot over heated sand. It has a smooth and strong flavor. 

Turkish Delight.  A gelatinous candy made with a range of flavors like rose, mint, lemon and orange. It’s cut into cubes and dusted in corn starch. Higher end versions are mixed with or encrusted in nuts and flowers then formed into elegant looking rolls or bricks. 

Baklava.  A flaky bite sized pastry made with layers of chopped nuts. It’s soaked in a sugar or honey glaze. It comes in a variety of styles and shapes. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Vinodocia Wine House.  A wine store in an ancient stone house with an underground cave used as a cellar. They sell local wines from Cappadocia and across Turkey. Come for a 5 glass tasting and leave with a bottle to bring home. 

Firin Expres.  A Turkish restaurant with a massive wood burning oven at its center. The chef bakes fresh bread, pide, pizzas and flaming jars of testi kebab. It’s one of the few places that has a vegetarian version. 

Develi Cıvıklısı Pita Parradise.  A restaurant specializing is various types of fresh baked pide like vegetarian, spinach and cheese, plain cheese and sausage. 

Hector Coffee House & Lounge.  A multi floor cafe in Göreme with a rooftop terrace and Persian style lounge. Come here for afternoon coffee and baklava. 

Mozaik Restaurant.  A cozy restaurant and bar with a warmly lit interior and Turkish wines. Come here for a mulled wine by the fireplace on a chilly night.

Where to Stay

Atilla’s Cave Hotel.  A cave hotel in the town of Nar with multiple rooms built into a 1,500 year old cave dwelling. The rooms are authentic, spacious and warmly lit making for a cozy stay. The hotel has a rooftop terrace and restaurant serving homestyle Turkish meals. Book on Airbnb. 

Hotel Philosophia.  A hostel in Uçhisar with private stone walled rooms and rustic bungalows near the center of town. Its garden patio and communal kitchen are perfect for relaxing and meeting other travelers. The host provides a daily breakfast spread with Turkish tea. Reserve on Hotels. 

Rental Car

Renting a car and driving between the valleys is the best way to see the sights and natural landscapes on your own time. We rented an economy car from Garenta at the airport for our week in the region. Driving was not too different than in other parts of Europe of the United States. 

Location Specifics

When to Visit.  We visited Cappadocia during the curb season in early October. The days were mild and evenings were cool making outdoor hikes through the valleys quite pleasant. 

How Long to Visit.  Plan on visiting Cappadocia for at least 5 days. This will give you enough time to visit several valleys at a leisurely pace. 

Avoid the Tours.  Tours allow visitors short on time to visit multiple sights in one day however they’re quite shallow. Most groups stop for a brief photo and move on. 

Wear Proper Footing.  Wear hiking boots or shoes with sturdy treads while hiking. The loose gravel and steep terrain can be treacherous. 

Language.  Turkish, the national languages is widely spoken in Cappadocia. Many people in the tourism industry speak a range of languages including English, Italian and Russian. 

Cash vs Card.  Most businesses accept credit card. Carry Turkish Lira for times when card machines are down. ATMs are plentiful in town centers. Foreign currencies like the Dollar or Euro are not accepted. 

Tipping.  A 10% tip or service charge is customary. Confirm if it’s including before paying or double tipping. 

For Next Time… 

Cappadocia is place of ancient history and incredible landscapes. We experienced a lot during our week and left with inspiration for our next trip to Turkey. 

Hot Air Balloon Flight.  Since our hot air balloon flight was repeatedly cancelled due to weather, we plan to try again on our next adventure here. 

Cave Dwelling Camping.  After seeing people camping in the Red Valley, we’ll be traveling with our camping gear and staying overnight in one of the ancient cave dwellings. 

Tuz GoluSalt Flats.  A vast salt lake home to flamingos, mirror-like reflections and picturesque sunsets. 

Catalhoyuk Archeological Site.  A neolithic archeological site with the excavated ruins of a Hittite city dating back to 7,500 BCE. 

Sagalassos Archelogical Site.  An ancient acropolis with ruins of baths, theaters and statues from the Greek and Roman empires. 

Istanbul, Turkey

Istanbul, Turkey

Istanbul is a stylish city at the cross roads of time and cultures. It straddles two continents, embracing its European charm and Middle Eastern influences. Vibrant neighborhoods are teeming with indie cafes, diverse restaurants, lively bars, sweets shops and all manner of boutiques. The modern metropolis has a storied history dating back to ancient times with historic sights, royal palaces, grand mosques and sprawling bazaars. 

Neighborhoods & Streets

Karaköy (Galata).  A hilly neighborhood centered on one of the city’s main landmarks, the medieval Galata Tower. The area is a beautiful place to stay and explore. Its cobblestone streets are lined with historic European architecture, vintage shops, artisan jewelers, Turkish restaurants, tiny cafes and happening bars. 

• Umbrella Street.  A photogenic street in Karaköy covered in a canopy of colorful umbrellas and grape vines. It’s lined with dozens of cafes and coffee shops. 

• Mumhane Street.  A trendy street home to elevated restaurants, cocktail bars, Turkish sweets shops, designer boutiques and street food stands.

• Sofyali Street.  A narrow street in the Karaköy with dozens of pubs and bars. Come here for local beers, cocktails and light bites. 

Eminönü.  A vast neighborhood of Istanbul home to historic sights, Ottoman style mosques and markets including the Grand Bazaar and Egyptian Market. 

Sultanahmet.  The oldest neighborhood of Istanbul home to cobble stone alleyways, neoclassical architecture and landmark sights like The Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace.

Kadikoy.  A trendy neighborhood on the Asian side of Istanbul. It’s a young and non touristy spot with bustling streets, dozens of cafes, cocktail bars and pubs. Come here on a Friday night to experience the city’s nightlife. Visit Fahri Konsolos and Lelabbo Modafor cocktails and Muhit Kadiköyfor local beers.

Getting Here. Kadikoy is reachable by a public ferry from the riverfronts in Eminönü and Karaköy. Ferries run every half an hour late into the night. 

See the Sights 

Hagia Sophia.  A landmark mosque and one of the most important buildings from the Byzantine period. It has survived over 1,700 years, witnessing the rise and fall of empires and religions. Its multi-domed structure features buttresses and Islamic minarets. The interior mezzanine offers views of its domed ceilings, stone walls, early Christian mosaics and emerald carpeted prayer hall.  

Hagia Sophia Museum.  A museum dedicated to the history of the Hagia Sophia and Istanbul. An audio visual guide narrates its key moments in time from the founding of Constantinople, the rise & fall of Byzantine & Ottoman Empires, the expansion of Christianity & Islam and centuries of additions & restorations.

Blue Mosque.  An iconic Ottoman style mosque with a series of domed roofs and pairs of tiered minarets. The interior prayer hall is adorned with hand painted blue tiles, elaborately painted ceilings and colorful stained glass windows. Massive columns support the domed structure while as series of suspended lanterns illuminate its interior. Entrance is fee. Plan to arrive before 8am.

Basilica Cistern.  A vast subterranean cistern from the 6th Century of Constantinople. Warm lights illuminate the cistern in a dim glow. Walkways lead above the flooded floor as columns reflect across the still water. Its vaulted brick ceilings are held up by hundreds of tall Corinthian style columns. Two of the most notable sit on the bases depicting the head of Medusa.  

Galata Tower.  A medieval watch tower built on a hill overlooking Istanbul. Its top floor boasts panoramic views or the sprawling city and the Bosporus River. A light show is projected on the facade at night Visit at 8:30am when it opens to avoid the crowds. 

Istanbul Archaeological Museum.  A museum housing a collection of ancient artifacts from across Mediterranean civilizations dating back thousands of years.

• The Sarcophagus Room features ornately carved marble sarcophagi decorated with battle scenes, mythical creatures and originally painted surfaces. 

• The Ancient Greek Hall displays life-life statues and reliefs of Greek gods, emperors and human figures like Apollo, Zeus and Alexander the Great. 

• The Treasures Hall showcases golden olive leaf crowns, jewelry and ancient coins minted with the faces of emperors from the ancient Roman, Greek and Byzantine empires. 

Chora Church.  An ancient stone church built more than 100 years before the Hagia Sophia. Its domed ceilings and vaulted interiors are adorned with 14th Byzantine mosaics. Some can be viewed for free from the outside. 

The Walls of Constantinople.  A 4th Century stone and brick wall surrounding the ancient city of Constantinople. It’s stationed with watch towers, arched gates and toothed battlements. The best preserved sections are along the Bosphorus River and Northwest side of the city. 

Aqueduct of Valens.  The remnants of a double arched aqueduct from the 4th century of Constantinople. Today cars drive through its arches along a modern road in the city of Istanbul. 

Suleymaniye Mosque.  The largest ottoman style mosque in Istanbul. It features a multi-domed roof, pairs of minarets and an arched courtyard and prayer hall adorned with Islamic calligraphy. Built on a hill, the outer lawn offers scenic views of the city. 

Visit the Sultan’s Palaces 

Topkapi Palace.  The historic and traditional palace of the Ottoman sultans. The grounds include ceremonial, administrative and living quarters used by the sultan, hist family and advisors. Many spaces have been converted into exhibits and museums. 

• Gate of Salutation.  A medieval style stone gate with twin spires. It makes the entrance to the palace grounds.

• Gülhane Park.  A city park built on the grounds of the former palace gardens. Stone paved walkways are flanked by grassy lawns, flowering gardens, towering sycamore trees, manicured hedges and Roman ruins. Food vendors wait outside of the park’s walls selling ears of corn, roasted chestnuts and simit.

• Baghdad Pavilion.  An ottoman style pavilion decorated in hand painted blue tiles and varying natural stones. Its ornate interior features a domed ceiling, colorful stained glass windows and a throne for the sultans. 

• The Marble Terrace.  A series of marble paved terraces with hilltop views overlooking the Bosphorus River, Golden Horn and city of Istanbul.

• Imperial Treasury.  An opulent exhibit with the Crown Jewels and priceless treasures of the Ottoman Empire. On display are golden and bejeweled objects including jewelry, thrones, medals, daggers, swords, armor and Qurans covers. 

• Sultan's Clothing Exhibit.  A two floor exhibit of the Sultan’s traditional clothing. On display are ceremonial outfits, military uniforms, intricately embroidered tunics, fur lined kaftans and accessories like turbans, fezes, boots and belts.

• The Holy Relics.  A palace hall with artifacts from the various profits of the Abrahamic religions. On display is the staff of Moses, the sword of David, a Skull fragment of John the Baptist, the Robe of Mohammad and the Coat of Fatima.

Dolmabahçe Palace.  An opulent and lavish palace built along the banks of the Bosphorus River. It was built by the Ottoman Sultan’s to rival the royal palaces of Europe, combining neoclassical and baroque styles. 

• Selamlik.  A truly lavish building used to run state affairs. Its gilded interiors are styled with marble columns, intricately patterned wood floors and Baroque style ceilings. Beige painted walls are decorated with gold framed mirrors and portraits of the sultans. Rooms are furnished with Persian carpets, crystal chandeliers and antique furniture. 

• The Crystal Staircase.  A double horseshoe shaped staircase and key feature of the Selamlik. Crystal banisters line each step as a massive crystal chandelier hands overhead.

• The Harem.  The ornate living quarters for the sultan and his family. Its interior chambers include apartments, halls, baths and wardrobes for the sultan, his mother and multiple wives. 

• National Painting Museum.  A building designed for the sultan’s heirs. It’s now an art museum displaying Ottoman and Turkish paintings. Galleries showcase portraits of the sultans and princes, the Ottoman navy, seasonal scenes of Istanbul, its iconic mosques and the Bosporus River. 

• Pro Tip.  Visit the second floor parlor cafe for Turkish coffee and a slice of mosaic cake. 

• Good to Know.  No photos are allowed inside of any of the palace buildings. 

Shop the Markets & Bazaars

The Grand Bazaar.  A historic complex with thousands of shops built into a sprawling network of covered streets, domed passageways and vaulted arcades. Merchants sell Turkish coffee makers, Persian rugs, Ottoman lamps, gold jewelry, antiques, leather goods, faux designer bags and Turkish sweets. Visit during the early afternoon and stop by Çarşu Kebapfor a traditional Turkish lunch. 

The Egyptian Market (Spice Market).  A vaulted passageway lined with shops selling colorful piles of spices, herbal teas, dried fruits and Turkish delight, nougat and baklava. Shop around for the best prices and always negotiate for a deal. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Ali Muhiddin Hacı Bekir.  The original confectioner that perfected the recipe for Turkish Delight. Their chain of unassuming shops isn’t as flashy as others but attracts loyal locals and those with a love of the famed treat. 

Galata Kitchen.  A restaurant with a selection of Turkish and Mediterranean dishes sold by the plate. Try the artichoke hearts, grape leaves, stuffed peppers, stewed eggplant and beet salad. 

Çarşu Kebap.  A Turkish restaurant along a side passage of the Grand Bazaar. While they specialize in meat, they offer vegetarian dishes like lentil soup, cucumber tazkiki with cheese pide. 

Vegan Community Kitchen Restaurant.  A small restaurant serving homestyle vegan versions of traditional Turkish dishes like Döner Kebap and Manti.

Tarihi Eminönü Balik Ekmek.  A riverfront restaurant serving Balik Ekmek, sandwiches with filets of mackerel griddled on a floating kitchen. It’s a hyper local place to enjoy an affordable meal. 

Daroute Coffee.  A cafe nearby the Blue Mosque with traditional Turkish Coffee. Order the set paired with Turkish Delight and hibiscus juice. 

Tarihi Cihangir Simit Firni.  A historic hole in the wall bakery with homestyle baklava, simit, pide and pastries. Come here for their sweet and savory Turkish bakes

Privato Cafe.  A breakfast spot specializing in traditional Turkish spreads served with breads, jams, butters, cheeses, sweet and savory pastries, fried eggs and tea. 

Fahri Konsolos.  A pocket bar with elegantly presented cocktails and signature drinks made with seasonal ingredients. Try the gin forward cucumber and rose cocktail or mule mug topped with olive oil fried parsley.

Muhit Kadıköy.  A popular pub style bar with inexpensive drinks and light bites. Come here for Turkish beers and flavored French fries. 

Lelabbo Moda.  A bar with a vintage atmosphere and classic cocktails made with house techniques as well as a range of creative signature cocktails. Try the Smoked Fiesta and Burnt Not Smoked. 

Benden Karaköy.  A street side restaurant and bar along the Umbrella Street with Turkish dishes and wines. Try the Yeni Raki, a local anise flavored liquor mixed with water. 

Tower Pub.  A cocktail bar steps away from the Galata Tower. Come here for the chill vibes, local beers and well made cocktails. 

Turkish Cuisine 

Döner Kebap.  A Turkish style sandwich made from slices of rotisserie grilled meat combined with veggies in a pita. 

Manti.  A small Turkish style dumping often filled with meat and garnished with yogurt. 

Balık Ekmek.  A Turkish fish sandwich made with filets of griddled mackerel, lettuce and tomatoes. 

Pide.  A ovular boat shaped pastry cradling a pool of melted cheese. It’s common on menus across the country. 

Simit.  A sesame seeded ring shaped pastry similar to a bagel. It’s commonly eaten at breakfast with coffee. 

Börek.  A snaked together flaky pastry stuffed with savory or sweet fillings. Try the spinach and cheese version. 

Midye Dolma (Stuffed Mussels).  A common street food snack served at carts across the city. Mussels are stuffed with rice, berries and spices then served with a generous squeeze of lemon. 

Turkish Delight.  A gelatinous candy made with a range of flavors like rose, mint, lemon and orange. It’s cut into cubes and dusted in corn starch. Higher end versions are mixed with or encrusted in nuts and flowers then formed into elegant looking rolls or bricks. 

Turkish Coffee.  Finely ground coffee slowly brewed in a long handed copper pot over heated sand. It has a smooth and strong flavor.

Baklava.  A flaky bite sized pastry made with layers of chopped nuts. It’s soaked in a sugar or honey glaze. It comes in a variety of styles and shapes. 

Getting Around 

Public Transit.  The city’s metro, trams, buses and ferries are the best way to travel across Istanbul. Buy a reloadable Istanbul Card from one of the kiosks at any metro station to use across all lines including to or from the airport. 

Uber.  Uber is available in Istanbul. It’s a good for getting across the city quickly though can be expensive compared to public transit. 

On Foot.  Plan to spend time exploring neighborhoods on foot. It’s the best way to experience the vibrant urban landscape of the city, its history and culture. 

Where to Stay

Mayer Tatarbeyi.  An apartment building with different style short term rentals. We stayed in a street view apartment with a comfy bed, cozy living area and kitchenette. The building has a rooftop terrace with city views! Reserve on Booking. 

Location Specifics 

When to Visit.  Istanbul is beautiful in late September and early October. It’s a quieter time to visit, post peak season. Try to visit major attractions during the morning on weekdays to avoid the largest crowds. 

Language.  Turkish is the national language however English is commonly spoken by most people, written on menus, museum descriptions and transit signs. 

Cash Vs Card.  Credit card is widely accepted across the city. It’s good to carry some Turkish Lira for cash only business or places with minimum spends. 

Beware of Pricing Scams.  Confirm the price before ordering or buying anything not clearly marked. If paying by card, confirm the price again before charging it. 

Tipping.  A 10% tip is standard across Turkey. It’s often included on most bills when paying. 

Visiting Mosques.  Non-Muslims can enter most mosques outside of prayer times. Plan to dress modestly by covering your legs and shoulders. Women must cover their hair. 

Buying Baklava.  When buying baklava, avoid the tourist shops on the busy streets and seek out a small local bakery. The baklava will be tastier and cheaper. 

Stray Cats.  Street cats and kittens are lovingly embraced in Istanbul. They’re a common sight across the city and strolling through business.

Smoking.  Smoking is extremely common in Istanbul. People light up in restaurants, bars and on the street. It’s practically unavoidable for non-smokers or people with allergies. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Istanbul is a welcoming and accepting city in a more conservative country. We had no problems as an openly gay couple, wearing our wedding rings, dressing as ourselves or sharing a bed. PDA is frowned upon between most people. 

For Next Time…

Istanbul is one of the few destinations we could see ourselves living! When we return, it may be for an extended period of time. Having visited the tourist sights, we plan to experience more local areas of the city and return to the neighborhood of Kadikoy. 

Sousse, Tunisia

Sousse, Tunisia

Sousse is a historic port town along the Mediterranean shores of Tunisia. It’s a place where ancient times meets modern day. Tunisian culture and history thrive in the narrow alleys and bustling souks of the walled Medina. The nearby Islamic holy city of Kairouan and the ancient Roman city of El Jem transport visitors back even further in time. Sousse’s modern center, lively cafes and golden sand beaches offer places to relax and forget about time.

The Medina of Sousse 

The Medina of Sousse is a densely packed old town dating back to the early 9th Century. Its stone walls encompass early Islamic architecture, defensive fortresses and centuries old mosques. Cobblestone alleyways weave between white painted buildings adorned with blue and yellow painted wooden doors. Archways lead into vaulted tunnels and lively souks.

Rue el Aghlaba.  A central road in the Medina leading from the Great Mosque of Sousse to the Bab El-Finga. Its lined with stone and white painted buildings, historic minarets, small cafes and shops.  

Driba Square.  A stone paved plaza in a residential area of the Medina surrounded by ornate Tunisian buildings and blue painted doors. 

Ave Soudan.  A picturesque road along the southern wall of the Medina leading leading fromBab El-Kebli to the Kasbah Citadel. Walk the narrow alleyway inside the Medina and the outer road following the wall. 

See the Sights 

The Great Mosque of Sousse.  A medieval mosque and one of the oldest sights in Sousse. It’s built as a fortress with a tall stone wall and minaret that doubles as a defensive tower. An arched corridor lines the interior courtyard. Minimal details and inscriptions from the Quran decorate its stone surfaces. Large wooden doors open to the prayer hall, only visible from the outside to non-Muslims. 

Ribat of Sousse.  A stone defensive fortress built in 821 CE to protect the ancient city of Sousse from invaders. The multilevel structure is shaped like a classic Middle Ages castle with a square design, round bastions and walls with toothed battlements. The interior courtyard is flanked by arched corridors and a series of rooms. A tower looms high above its base, offering views of the ancient Medina and Mediterranean Sea.

Walls of Sousse Medina.  The Medina is surrounded by a towering stone wall, series of ramparts, arched gates and defensive fortresses. The well preserved wall dates back to the early 9th Century, enclosing and protecting the ancient city. 

Les Remparts des Sousse.  A hilly section of the north wall lined with a series of defensive watch towers. It’s best viewed from a narrow palm lined park on the outside of the wall during the mid or late afternoon.

Kasbah Citadel.  A towering fortress on the northern hill of the Medina with tall stone walls, canons and a lighthouse. It can be viewed from outside the wall and from within the Sousse Archeological Museum. The kasbah itself is closed due to ongoing military activity. 

Sousse Archeological Museum.  A museum with the second largest collection of Roman era mosaics, primarily discovered in modern day Sousse. Given the port city’s location on the Mediterranean, many mosaics feature Roman sea gods, mythical sea creatures, marine animals, fishing scenes and ships. Other mosaics include scenes from everyday life including commonly eaten foods, horse races, comedy and hunting. Some are so detailed that they portray vivid facial expressions, shadows and patterns on clothes. 

Shop the Souks 

Sousse Medina Souk (Rue d’Angelterre).  The Medina’s main souk leading from behind the Great Mosque of Sousse to the south gate, Bab El-Kebli. It’s lined with shops and vendors selling leather goods, woven rugs, olive wood kitchenware, colorful ceramics, perfumes, Tunisian sweets, street food, dates and spices. 

Souk El-Caïd.  A souk leading from the west gate Bab El-Gharbi to Rue d’Angelterre. The stepped street is lined with shops, restaurants, cafes and a tunneled section with jewelry shops. 

Good to Know.  Half of the shops and vendors stay closed on days when a cruise ship is not docked. 

Pro Tip.  Haggle and negotiate for the best price. Offer 20% of the first price, expecting to meet somewhere in the middle. Don’t be afraid to walk away. 

Relax on the Beaches 

Bou Jaafar Beach.  A white sand beach with a seaside promenade. It’s the closest beach to the Medina yet sparsely visited. There are a couple spots to rent umbrellas and beach lounges. 

Sousse Beach.  A lengthy white sand beach in the Sousse’s hotel zone. It’s the city’s most popular beach with umbrella and beach lounge rentals, restaurants and cafes and marine activities. 

Enjoy the Cafes 

Café et Restaurant Kasbah.  A cafe in the middle of the Medina along Souk El-Caïd. Come here for Turkish sand coffee made street side. Sit inside, surrounded by an eclectic mix of decor like patterned rugs and antique artifacts. 

Dar Chatt Coffee Shop.  A quiet beachfront cafe and restaurant near the city center. Come here to enjoy a coffee while overlooking the deep blue hues of the Mediterranean. 

Visit The Holy City of Kairouan

Kairouan is an ancient city, regarded as the fourth most holy city in Islam. Its Islamic architecture and religious sights make it a place of pilgrimage for Muslims. It’s easily reachable on a day trip from Sousse. 

The Medina of Kairouan

A pristine stone wall surrounds the ancient Medina of Kairouan. Inside are historic mosques and mausoleums, cobblestone alleyways and tunnels, souks selling handmade rugs and Tunisian pastries. Buildings are supported by stone columns repurposed from the ruins of Carthage. Blue and green painted doors accent white plastered walls and golden stone facades.

Ave Habib Bourguiba.  A central road leading through the Medina between the Jalladin and Tunis Gates. It’s lined with storefronts and vendors selling Berber rugs, local pastries, tin tea sets, jewelry and clothes. 

Jalladin Gate.  One of several arched gates along the stone wall leading into the Medina. It leads to the bustling south side of Ave Habib Bourguiba. 

Tunis Gate.  An arched gate leading into the Medina. It’s flanked with marble columns from the ruins of Carthage. It leads to the north side of Ave Habib Bourguiba. 

El Jadid Gate.  A double arched gate with marble columns from Carthage. along the western corner of the Medina. It frames the minaret of the Zeitouna Mosque. 

Place des Martyres.  A plaza outside of the Jalladin Gate with views of the Medina’s stone wall and guard towers.

The Grand Mosque of Kairouan.  One of the holiest places in Islam and one of the world’s oldest mosques. It dates back to 670 CE, just decades after the religion’s founding. It served as a model for all future mosques in the Maghreb (the western Arab world). Its inner courtyard can be visited while prayer hall is only visible to non-Muslims. 

• The Exterior.  The mosque is reminiscent of the Medina’s wall with a golden stone facade, horseshoe shaped arches and minimal detailing. Its square stepped minarets feature a ribbed dome roof with a crescent moon and arched windows.

• The Inner Courtyard.  A large marble tiled courtyard flanked by arched corridors built with mismatched stone columns repurposed from the ruins of Carthage. The mosques two minarets stand opposite each other, announcing the Muslim call to prayer. Small sun dials are built into sections of the inner walls.

• The Prayer Hall.  Large wooden doors with ornate designs lead inside of the dimly lit prayer hall. Woven mats cover the floor where worshipers pray. Roman columns support stone arches and wooden beams. Conical chandeliers hang from the ceiling. The rear wall features geometric patterns and shapes of mosques in Islam’s four holy cities. Non Muslims cannot enter the prayer hall however it’s open for viewing. 

• Good to Know.  Dress modestly, covering legs and shoulders. Women need to cover their hair with a hat or scarf. Coverings can be borrowed from the ticket desk. 

Tapis Okba Terrace.  A rooftop cafe with views of the Grand Mosque and Medina. It’s accessible through a Tunisian rug shop with no pressure to buy anything. 

Mausolée Sidi Abid el Ghariani.  An ornate mausoleum with the entombed remains of a 14th Century Islamic scholar. Its surfaces are embellished with hand illustrated tiles, elaborate plasterwork, intricately painted wooden panels and interlaced geometric stonework. The central courtyard features Ottoman and Moorish influences like tiles depicting Istanbul’s Blue Mosque and horseshoe shaped arches. 

Good to Know.  The ticket from the Grand Mosque includes access to the mausoleum.

Ouled Farhane Graveyard.  An Islamic cemetery located outside of the walled Medina near the Grand Mosque. It’s comprised of white painted graves and simple headstones. 

Mosque of the Three Doors.  A small but historic stone mosque in the Medina named after its three domed doors. The stone work above is inscribed with Islamic inscriptions and decorative flourishes. The surrounding streets are lined with artisans weaving and selling Berber style wool rugs. 

Bir Barrouta.  A very unique cafe on the second floor of a stone building in the Medina. It’s built around a historic well operated by a camel drawn wheel that lifts buckets of water to the surface. The cafe makes coffees and teas using water from the well. Try the Turkish coffee. 

Makroudh Barrak.  A bakery in the middle of the Medina along Ave Habib Bourguiba with Tunisian pastries like its namesake, Makroudh. Makroudhis a deep fried date filled cookie made with semolina flower and covered in a honey glaze. 

Visit the Ancient City of El Jem

El Jem is an ancient city with Roman colosseums, archeological ruins and intricate marble mosaics. It’s easily reachable on a day trip from Sousse.

Colosseum of El Jem.  One of the best preserved colosseums outside of Rome and the third largest in the Roman Empire, capable of holding 35,000 spectators. 

• The Exterior.  Three levels of golden limestone, stacked arches and Corinthian style columns wrap the ovular colosseum. The grand structure towers above the city, only rivaled by the minarets of modern day mosques. 

• The Interior.  Arched corridors circulate through the colosseum while staircases step up to multiple levels to where bleachers one stood. Lower levels offer front row views of the arena and upper level provide a panorama of the entire colosseum. A restored marble section overlooks the arena.

• The Arena & Dungeons.  Passages lead to the arena where gladiators once fought and ancient performances took place. Stairs descend to underground tunnels and chambers with cells for prisoners, lions and chariots.

• Pro Tip.  The ticket to the colosseum of El Jem doubles as a ticket to the El Jem Archeological Museum and Thysdrus Archaeological Park. 

Roman Theater of El Jem.  The stone ruins of a smaller unmaintained colosseum. Crumbling stands and bleachers surround the ovular arena with piles of rubble. It’s sparsely visited and free to enter. 

El Jem Archeological Museum.  A museum with galleries of Roman mosaics from the ruins of El Jem.Walls are adorned with well preserved mosaics recovered from the floors of ancient villas. Tiny pieces of stone compose colorful images of Roman gods, musical instruments, African animals, hunting scenes, floral designs and geometric patterns. Some are so detailed that they look like handwoven tapestries. The museum also includes access to the Thysdrus Archaeological Park.

Thysdrus Archaeological Park.  The ruins of several Roman estates, once common in the ancient city of Thysdrus. Walkways lead between partially restored foundations, walls and columns of the sprawling residences. Millenia old mosaics of various conditions span the floors. Many of which feature similar designs and patterns to those preserved inside the museum.

The House of Africa.  A restored ancient residence from the 2nd Century with a column lined courtyard and a range of interior spaces. Rooms feature beautiful mosaic floors with illustrations of Roman gods and goddesses, African animals, geometric patterns and colorful marble tiles. Marble torsos from ancient statues and crowns of Corinthian columns line the corridors. 

Tunisian Cuisine 

Ojja (Tunisian Shakshouka).  A savory tomato stew made with poached eggs, harissa and aromatic vegetables. It can be made vegetarian, with seafood or various meats.

Kafteji.  A mix of fried vegetables like eggplants, zucchinis, tomatoes, bell pepper and potato. It’s usually stuffed inside or eaten with baguette.

Mechouia Salad.  A salsa style Tunisian salad made with grilled vegetables like tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, garlic and onion. It’s garnished with tuna, olives, egg and parsley. 

Brik.  A deep fried bread roll stuffed with tuna, olives, eggs and harissa. It’s a common street food snack. 

Fricassee.  A deep fried crepe stuffed with egg, tuna, potatoes, olives and harissa. It’s a common street food snack. 

Makroudh.  Fried date filled cookies made with semolina flower. They’re covered in a honey glaze and garnished with sesame seeds. 

Lablabi.  A savory and spiced chickpea stew served on top of toasted garlic bread with olives and fresh parsley. 

Chorba.  A spiced vegetable and chickpea noodle soup. 

Rouz Jerbi.  A aromatic rice dish made with chickpeas, carrots spinach and a range of North African spices. 

Where to Stay

Medina Airbnb.  We stayed on the top floor of an apartment in the historic Medina of Sousse. It included a bedroom, large living room and well equipped kitchen. One of the highlights was the private rooftop terrace with views of the Medina, new city and sea. It’s located above a bakery near the south gate, Bab El-Kebli. 

Getting Around

Getting to Sousse by Train. Take a regional train from Tunis’s main train station, Gare de Tunis, to Sousse. Check train schedules and book tickets in person a day in advance. First class tickets cost about 12 Dinar, second class tickets cost about 9 Dinar. Trains are often delayed by one to two hours. It’s probably quicker to take a Louage. 

Getting to El Jem by Louage. El Jem can be visited in a half day from Sousse. Take a Louage from the Al Lawajat Station in Sousse. Buy tickets from a booth inside a large warehouse filled with the shared taxi vans. Look for the line that says El Jem or the man shouting “El Jem, El Jem.” Tickets cost about 7 Dinar per person. The ride takes less than an hour.

Getting to Kairouan by Louage. Kairouan can be visited in a half day from Sousse. Take a Louage from the Al Lawajat Station in Sousse. Buy tickets from a booth on the back side of a large warehouse filled with the shared taxi vans. Look for the line that says Kairouan. Tickets cost about 7 Dinar per person.

Louage (Shared Taxis). Louages are shared taxi vans with a red or yellow stripe down their sides. They’re used by locals to get between cities, towns and across the country. They’re often faster than trains and significantly cheaper than taxis. Tickets can be purchased at Louage stations in each town. Vans only leave when they’re full. Louages operate from 7am until 5-5:30pm at the very latest.

Language & Phrases 

Arabic and French are commonly spoken throughout Tunisia. Some locals also speak English, Spanish and Italian. Download offline languages with Google Translate to help communicate. 

English to Arabic: 

• Hello = Salem  

• Goodbye = Ma'a Salama

• Thank you = Shukran

• You’re Welcome = Marhaba

English to French: 

• Hello = Bonjour (daytime) Bonsoir (nighttime) 

• Goodbye = Au Revoir

• Thank you = Merci 

• You’re Welcome = De Rien 

Location Specifics

Cash vs Card.  A vast majority of purchases are cash only. Credit card is rarely accepted. Withdraw Tunisian Dinar from local ATMs or convert foreign cash at the airport. 

Affordability.  Tunisia is a very budget friendly destination. Accommodations, transportation, dining out and sightseeing are easily inexpensive when traveling on a budget. 

Medina Hours.  The Medina slowly begins waking up around 7am. It’s fully bustling by mid morning and abruptly shuts down around 4pm.

Mosques.  Most mosques are off limits to non Muslims. They can usually be viewed from the outside. 

Staring.  It’s part of the culture for men to stare. You’ll often be stared down as you walk past shops in the souks, sidewalk cafes and by people sitting in cars. It’s best to ignore it and not think anything of it. 

Avoid School Children.  Stay clear of groups of tween and teenage school children. They’ll surround you, shout at you, mock you and ask for money. 

LGBTQ+ Safety & Dangers

Tunisia is not a safe destination for LGBTQ+ travelers. The government and a large percentage of the population have strong anti LGBTQ+ beliefs. Government polices criminalize LGBTQ+ people with punishments including fines, imprisonment, torture and deportation. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Entrapment Schemes.  Some locals that suspect you of being gay will try to entrap you and make you to admit it. Shortly after beginning a conversation, they will abruptly change topics and ask outright, “are you gay?” Irrefutably say no, look offended, end the conversation and leave as quickly as possible. This happened to us multiple times, in different locations including taxis, at markets and on the street.  

Elsewhere in Tunisia 

We spent a week exploring Tunisia, venturing beyond Sousse, El Jem and Kairouan to stay in the capital city of Tunis with day trips to the Mediterranean town of Sidi Bou Said and ancient capital of Carthage. 

For Next Time…

If we ever return to Tunisia, we would love to have a “Star Wars” themed moment. 

Stay in a Troglodyte Home.  A circular dugout cave dwelling like the one lived in by Luke Skywalker’s aunt and uncle. 

Mos Espa Film Set.  Tour the film set used in the prequels where Anakin Skywalker grew up. 

Visit Tatooine.  An actual city in the south of the country that inspired the desert planet.