Tunis, Tunisia

Tunis, Tunisia

Tunis is a vibrant Mediterranean city in North African country of Tunisia. Its history dates back thousands of years, spanning numerous civilizations and cultures. Tunis is famed for its ancient Carthaginian ruins, historic mosques and picturesque Medina.

The Medina of Tunis 

The Medina of Tunis is a maze of historic buildings, energetic souks and bustling sidewalk cafes. Cobblestone streets and vaulted tunnels weave through the old town. Brightly colored wooden doors embellished with studded designs and bronze knockers accent facades of simple white painted buildings. There’s truly beauty in getting lost here and exploring the Medina’s history, sights and souks. 

Rue Achour.  A cobblestone street on the northern side of the Medina lined with a series of beautiful stone buildings designed with blue painted shutters, arched windows and hand painted tiles.

Rue de la Kasbah.  A narrow street leading through the center of Medina from Bab El Bhar to the Kasbah Square. The half closest to the gate is full of clothing and shoe vendors. The half closest to the square is lined with many street food and takeaway restaurants. 

Rue Sidi Ben Arous.  A lengthy street that passes through the middle of the Medina past quiet residential areas, bustling souks and historic mosques. 

Rue du Pacha.  A quiet street of the Medina leading to a hidden plaza with a large fountain at its center. 

The Sights of The Medina

Zitouna Mosque.  A historic mosque and Islamic university in the center of the Medina dating back to the 7th century. It features a grand minaret, column lined courtyard and stone masonry repurposed from the ruins of Carthage. It’s not accessible to non Muslims but can be viewed from nearby rooftops like Cafe Panorama. 

Hamouda Bay Mosque.  An Ottoman style mosque with an octagonal stone minaret. It’s one of the most iconic mosques on Rude Sidi Ben Arous, framed by a series of arched tunnels. 

Sidi Youssef Dey Mosque.  A 17th Century mosque and mausoleum, famed for being the first Ottoman mosque built in Tunis. Like most mosques, non Muslims cannot enter. 

Bab Mnara.  A 12th Century gate leading into the Medina. It passes through a vaulted stone tunnel built using Carthaginian columns. The historic minaret of the El Ksar Mosque towers above it. 

Dar Lasram Palace.  An elaborately designed 19th century palace in the center of the Medina. Its interior walls are covered in colorful hand painted tiles. Tall ceilings are adorned with gold leafed and painted wooden panels. The central courtyard features marble columns, highly ornamented plaster arches and carved wooden doors leading to stately rooms. 

Good to Know.  There are no official hours. If the front door is open, the palace is available to tour. Tickets cost 5 TND. 

Madrasa Slimania.  A former Islamic University built in the mid 18th Century during Ottoman rule. Its central courtyard features black and white arches, marble columns and green roof tiles. An ornately tiled foyer, prayer room and series of individual studies surround the courtyard. 

Good to Know.  Now a cultural center, it’s free to enter if the doors are open.

Roman Aqueducts of Bardo.  The lengthy ruins of a 2nd Century Roman aqueduct. Its tall stone and brick columns are bridged by a series of arched. It spans a street in the middle of a residential neighborhood, towering over adjacent houses. 

Borj Zouwara Fort.  The crumbling ruins of a stone fortress. Its round turrets and walls are perched on a hill in a residential area with panoramic views of the city. It’s free to visit and explore, though not well maintained are littered with broken glass and trash. 

Bab El Bhar.  A historic stone gate connecting the Medina and new city located in Victory Square. 

Victory Square.  A small plaza located on the edge of the Medina with two fountains, historic buildings and access to the souks.

Avenue Habib Bourguiba.  A tree lined avenue leading from Bab El Bhar to the Tunis Clock Tower. It’s lined with historic buildings like the French Embassy, Municipal Theater and St Vincent de Paul Theater.

Tunis Clock Tower.  An obelisk shaped clock tower in the city center covered in arabesque patterns.

Kasbah Square.  A large tiled plaza in the Medina surrounded by stately government buildings, a mosque and historic school and walled ruins. Visit in the early morning to watch the military raise the Tunisian flag. Avoid taking photos of any uniformed officers. 

Visit the Bardo National Museum

The Bardo National Museum is a vast museum housing the world’s largest collection of Roman mosaics.and artifacts from the ancient city of Carthage and past Mediterranean civilizations. The museum itself is an architectural and historical wonder, built within the former 19th Century palace. Spend a half to full day here, exploring the galleries and rooms. 

Carthage Room.  A grand hall with rows of marble statues and well preserved mosaics of Roman gods and the Emperor Augustus. 

Roman Villas Room.  A The reception room of the 19th Century palace with an elaborately designed domed ceiling. It features exquisite mosaics from the 4th century depicting scenes of daily life including fishing, wildlife, hunting and the ancient gods. 

The Virgile Room.  An elaborately designed room with an intricate plaster dome. It features important mosaics and sub-rooms with treasures like bronze statues, a golden breast plate, a jar with over 40,000 ancient coins and gold jewelry from the Punic, Roman and Egyptian periods.   

Marine Mosaics Room.  A large room with sprawling mosaics of the sea gods, sea creatures and fishing voyages. 

Petite Palace.  A palace relocated from the Tunis Medina with extremely well preserved rooms and courtyards featuring hand painted tiled walls, marble floors and columns, ornately carved plaster ceilings and original furniture. 

Constantine Room.  A room displaying stone funerary stelae and marble sarcophagi carved with portraits, motifs and poems of the deceased

Shop the Souks & Markets 

The Medina of Tunis is home to a variety of souks, traditional marketplaces full of shops, artisans, cafes and vendors. The souks meander through the heart of the Medina, encompassing narrow cobblestone streets and vaulted passageways. 

Souk el Bey.  A vaulted complex with coffee shops, cafes, take away restaurants and hat shops. An eclectic variety of tables and chairs litter the corridors. Locals come here to relax, meet, sip on coffee and smoke. 

Souk El Attarine.  One of the most bustling souks in the Medina. Its variety of shops and authentic atmosphere attracts both locals and tourists. Vendors sell perfumes, brass jewelry, linen clothes, leather bags, woven textiles, brassware, paintings, olive wood cookware and souvenirs. 

Pastry Souk.  Though not officially a souk, a corner within Souk El Attarine is is lined with a dozen bakeries and food carts selling Tunisian sweets and patisserie. Some vendors even hand out free samples. Try the Makroudh, a fried date filled cookie made with semolina flower. They’re covered in a honey glaze and garnished with sesame seeds.

Souk Trok & Souk Al Berka.  Two large covered streets with numerous jewelers selling antique silver, golden wearables and sparkling stones. 

Central Market of Tunis.  A large farmers market outside of the Medina with tables of vendors selling fresh vegetables, fruits, herbs, meats and seafood. Shop for strings of dried dates, various types of brined olives, fresh baked French and Tunisian breads, creamy farmers cheeses, homemade harissa and Mediterranean seafood!

Explore the Ancient Ruins of Carthage 

Carthage is the ancient capital city of the Carthaginian Empire. It ruled the Western Mediterranean for nearly a millennia from 800 BCE until defeat by the Romans in the Punic Wars. The city is home to Roman ruins of ancient baths, amphitheaters, villas, aqueducts, cisterns and tiled mosaics.

Baths of Antoninus.  The ruins of an ancient seaside bathing complex built during the 2nd Century. The baths are one of the largest built during the Roman Empire, featuring swimming pools, gyms, hot and cold rooms. Walkways lead through crumbling stone tunnels and arches, into open areas, cisterns and former rooms. Remains of stone mosaics, colorful marbles, limestone capitals of Corinthian columns and Latin lettered engravings litter the ruins.

The Roman Villas District.  A former Roman neighborhood home to the Carthaginian elite. Stone foundations, low height walls and columns from the ruined villas remain. Sections of ancient mosaics and marble tiles still decorate several floors. Pieces of clay pottery can be found scattered throughout. Olive and pomegranate trees grow from the ruins of several villas. Exposed wells peer into underground storage chambers. 

The Roman Villas of the Aviary.  The partially preserved ruins of a hilltop villa in the Roman Villas District. It’s named after a series of exquisite mosaics featuring birds and other animals. The villa displays the torosos of marble statues, granite columns and stone walls from likely once grand rooms. 

Mosaic of the Winning Horses.  A well preserved floor mosaic at The Roman Villas of the Aviary. The finely detailed mosaic features sections of equestrian scenes, horses, people, florals and birds. Colorful marble tiles with geometric patterns alternate between the mosaics.  

The Amphitheater of Carthage.  The ruins of a 1st Century amphitheater used for gladiator battles and public executions. Its ovular stone walls, toppled columns, underground tunnels and prison cells remain.

The Odeon Theatre of Iklibis Carthage.  The ruins of a half circular amphitheater. A viewing hill, stone foundations and toppled columns form a ring around the central stage. Exposed tunnels and passageways once transported lions, gladiators and prisoners for public spectacles.

The Roman Theater of Carthage.  A restored Roman amphitheater dating back to ancient times and still in use today. Its crescent shaped stone bleachers have held spectators and performances over the millennia.

Cisterns of La Malga.  A vast complex of Roman cisterns and aqueducts used to supply Carthage and the Baths of Antoninus with fresh water. The ruins can be viewed from a roadside lookout. 

Tips for Visiting Carthage: 

• Time Needed.  Many of the ruins are within walking distance of each other, making them easily accessible. The major sights can be visited in a half day however a full day is needed to explore many of the smaller sights. Plan to begin exploring at 8am before tour buses from the cruises arrive. 

• Tickets.  A single ticket allows entry to most ruins. It can be purchased from any of the major sights like the Baths of Antoninus or The Roman Villas District. 

• Getting to Carthage.  Take the 347 Bus from Tunis (Tunis Gare Marine) to Carthage (Carthage-Hannibal Station). Buses leave regularly from in front of the station, taking between 30 minutes and one hour. Tickets cost 1 Dinar one way. 

Visit Sidi Bou Said

Sidi Bou Said is a dreamy and picturesque town perched on an evergreen hillside overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Cobblestone streets and narrow alleyways lead past white buildings accented with blue painted windows and doors. A floral fragrance fills the air as flowering trees overhang homes. It can be visited in tandem with a day trip to Carthage from Tunis.  

Rue Hedi Zarrouk.  The main street leading through Sidi Bou Said. Its cobble stone streets lead past blue and white painted buildings, restaurants, cafes and numerous souvenir shops. 

Good to Know.  It can get crowded when there’s a cruise ship is docked in Tunis.Explore the quiet and picturesque side streets. Most tourists don’t leave the main street. 

Panoramic Viewpoints.  There are multiple panoramic viewpoints of Sidi Bou Said and the Mediterranean Sea throughout town. They’re all free with photogenic views. 

• City View Panorama.  A hilltop panoramic lookout of the Sidi Bou Said’s rooftops and the Mediterranean Sea. 

• Mediterranean Panorama.  A lookout point at the end of a narrow alleyway with cliffside views of the Mediterranean Sea. 

• Sidi Bou Said Viewing Point.  A cliffside lookout point of the Mediterranean Sea near the end of town on Rue Hedi Zarrouk.

• 365 Steps Punto Panoramico.  A scenic lookout of Sidi Bou Said’s verdant hillside. The steps connect Rue Hedi Zarrouk and Sidi Bou Said Beach. 

Bambalouni Sidi Bou Said.  A street side kitchen frying Bambalouni, Tunisian donuts dusted in sugar. They almost obligatory when walking through town. 

Getting Here.  Sidi Bou Said is easily accessible from Carthage. There are multiple ways to get here. 

• By Taxi.  Hail a yellow cab off the street. Ask to be taken to Mosque Al-Ghufran at the entrance to town. Negotiate price before getting in, expect to pay no more than 10 Dinar. Rides take less than 10 minutes.

• By Bus.  Take the 347 Bus from any of the roadside bus stops. Tickets can be purchased onboard for 1 Dinar.

• On Foot.  It takes 45 minutes to walk from Carthage to Sidi Bou Said. This is a great option if not on a schedule.

Places to Eat & Drink 

Cafe Panorama.  A rooftop cafe with panoramic views of the Medina and Zitouna Mosque. Order an overpriced Tunisian mint and almond tea to enjoy along with the views. The cafe is free to visit and accessible through a souvenir store off one of the souks.

Café Slimania.  A street cafe on an alley in the Medina covered with leafy vines. Come here for an early morning coffee as the city slowly comes to life. 

Cafe Souk.  A cafe hidden inside the garment souk on the northern side of the Medina. Join locals sipping on coffees and chain smoking cigarettes.  

Beignets de la Médina.  A take away kitchen in the Medina specializing in fried Tunisian street food dishes like fricassee & brik. It’s a very popular local lunch spot.

Chez Bilel.  A hole in the wall Tunisian restaurant in the Medina with flavorful local dishes like Mechoula Salad, Ojja and Kafteji. A combination of stews eaten by hand with fresh pillowy baguettes. 

Restaurant Neptune.  A Tunisian seafood restaurant in Carthage with an outdoor patio on the Mediterranean Sea. Come here for the grilled calamari, sea bass and fresh salads. It’s one of the few places that serves Tunisian beer. 

Dar Zarrouk.  An elevated restaurant in Sidi Bou Said with dining room views of the beautiful Mediterranean Sea. Their bar has an extensive list of Tunisian wines available by the bottle and half bottle. 

Tunisian Cuisine 

Ojja (Tunisian Shakshouka).  A savory tomato stew made with poached eggs, harissa and aromatic vegetables. It can be made vegetarian, with seafood or various meats.

Kafteji.  A mix of fried vegetables like eggplants, zucchinis, tomatoes, bell pepper and potato. It’s usually stuffed inside or eaten with baguette.

Mechouia Salad.  A salsa style Tunisian salad made with grilled vegetables like tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, garlic and onion. It’s garnished with tuna, olives, egg and parsley. 

Brik.  A deep fried bread roll stuffed with tuna, olives, eggs and harissa. It’s a common street food snack. 

Fricassee.  A deep fried crepe stuffed with egg, tuna, potatoes, olives and harissa. It’s a common street food snack. 

Makroudh.  Fried date filled cookies made with semolina flower. They’re covered in a honey glaze and garnished with sesame seeds. 

Lablabi.  A savory and spiced chickpea stew served on top of toasted garlic bread with olives and fresh parsley. 

Chorba.  A spiced vegetable and chickpea noodle soup. 

Rouz Jerbi.  A aromatic rice dish made with chickpeas, carrots spinach and a range of North African spices. 

Where to Stay

The Yellow House in the Medina of Tunis.  We stayed in a large two bedroom apartment on the edge of the Medina. Beyond its golden front doors are rooms decorated in Tunisian antiques, artifacts and paintings of the Medina. We booked on Airbnb.

Getting Around 

On Foot.  The city center and Medina are best explored on foot! The streets, alleys and souks are easily walkable. 

Taxis.  Yellow cabs are readily available and can be hailed off the street. Negotiate fares before hand or ask drivers to use their meter. Fares within the city generally cost between 5-20 Dinar depending on distance. 

Airport Taxi.  Hire a taxi from the taxi line at the airport to get to the Medina. Fares are negotiable, costing between 30-50 Dinar. 

Trains.  Local and regional trains are the best way to explore nearby towns and distant cities. 

• Gare de Tunis.  The city’s main train station and regional transportation hub. Come here to book tickets to cities further south like Sousse. Check train schedules and book tickets in person a day ahead. Trains are often delayed by over an hour. 

• Tunis Gare Marine.  A local train station with a train line operating between Tunis, Carthage and Sidi Bou Said. Tickets can be purchased the day of. 

Language & Phrases 

Arabic and French are commonly spoken throughout Tunisia. Some locals also speak English, Spanish and Italian. Download offline languages with Google Translate to help communicate. 

English to Arabic: 

• Hello = Salem  

• Goodbye = Ma'a Salama

• Thank you = Shukran

• You’re Welcome = Marhaba

English to French: 

• Hello = Bonjour (daytime) Bonsoir (nighttime) 

• Goodbye = Au Revoir

• Thank you = Merci 

• You’re Welcome = De Rien 

Location Specifics

Cash vs Card.  A vast majority of purchases are cash only. Credit card is rarely accepted. Withdraw Tunisian Dinar from local ATMs or convert foreign cash at the airport. 

Affordability.  Tunisia is a very budget friendly destination. Accommodations, transportation, dining out and sightseeing are easily inexpensive when traveling on a budget. 

Medina Hours.  The Medina slowly begins waking up around 7am. It’s fully bustling by mid morning and abruptly shuts down around 4pm.

Mosques.  Most mosques are off limits to non Muslims. They can usually be viewed from the outside. 

Staring.  It’s part of the culture for men to stare. You’ll often be stared down as you walk past shops in the souks, sidewalk cafes and by people sitting in cars. It’s best to ignore it and not think anything of it. 

Avoid School Children.  Stay clear of groups of tween and teenage school children. They’ll surround you, shout at you, mock you and ask for money. 

LGBTQ+ Safety & Dangers

Tunisia is not a safe destination for LGBTQ+ travelers. The government and a large percentage of the population have strong anti LGBTQ+ beliefs. Government polices criminalize LGBTQ+ people with punishments including fines, imprisonment, torture and deportation. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Entrapment Schemes.  Some locals that suspect you of being gay will try to entrap you and make you to admit it. Shortly after beginning a conversation, they will abruptly change topics and ask outright, “are you gay?” Irrefutably say no, look offended, end the conversation and leave as quickly as possible. This happened to us multiple times, in different locations including taxis, at markets and on the street.  

Elsewhere in Tunisia 

We spent a week exploring Tunisia, venturing beyond Tunis, Carthage and Sidi Bou Said to stay in the coastal city of Sousse, with day trips to the ancient city of El Jem and the holy city of Kairouan.

For Next Time…

If we ever return to Tunisia, we would love to have a “Star Wars” themed moment. 

Stay in a Troglodyte Home.  A circular dugout cave dwelling like the one lived in by Luke Skywalker’s aunt and uncle. 

Mos Espa Film Set.  Tour the film set used in the prequels where Anakin Skywalker grew up. 

Visit Tatooine.  An actual city in the south of the country that inspired the desert planet. 

Casablanca, Morocco

Casablanca, Morocco 

Casablanca is a Moroccan metropolis and long romanticized destination. The city is famed for its historic architecture and landmark sights. Palm lined avenues lead past Moorish style and French art deco buildings. Islamic minarets tower across the skyline as the call to prayer echos across neighborhoods. Cafes spill out onto geometric tiled sidewalks while lively markets entice the senses. Casablanca is the perfect entry point to Morocco! Plan to spend at least two days here exploring the city prior to continuing onto destinations elsewhere in the country. 

Neighborhoods 

The Ancient Medina.  Casablanca’s walled medina is the historic center of the seaside city. Winding streets and narrow alleyways lead past graffitied buildings with tall wooden doors. “Wrong” turns often lead to dead ends or into someone’s home. Stray cats roam freely at nearly every corner. It’s a wonderful place to experience local life with very few tourists. It’s significantly smaller than the medinas of Marrakesh and Fez making it especially easy to explore. 

Habous Quarter.  The Habous Quarter is one of the most beautiful areas of Casablanca, offering a blend of historic charm and modern glamour. It’s home to everyone from Moroccan royalty to everyday people. Narrow roads with window cafes, bookstores, street side bakeries and fruit carts meander through older areas. Shops display brass artifacts, Moroccan rugs and traditional clothing beneath arched walkways. Intricately carved stone minarets flank lush parks. Tasteful villas and palm lined avenues comprise modern areas. Flowering bushes and lush hedges overhang sidewalks.  

Mers Sultan.  Mers Sultan is a mixed residential and commercial neighborhood, known for its walkability and central location. Sidewalk cafes and traditional bakeries line the streets, framed by French Colonial and Moorish architecture, making it an inviting area to explore on foot.

La Corniche.  A ritzy seaside neighborhood with city beaches, newly built resorts, luxury restaurants and commercial shopping centers. A cliffside promenade offers views of the Atlantic Ocean, best enjoyed at a restaurant with an afternoon coffee or mint tea. It’s a popular area with tourists but lacks the charm of other areas in the city.

See the Sights 

Hassan II Mosque.  A grand seaside mosque with a towering minaret. It’s the largest mosque in Morocco and one of the largest in the world. The tan stone facade is adorned with Islamic ornamentation like Moorish arches, geometric patterns and blue-green mosaic tiles. The interior prayer hall is decorated with intricate plasterwork, hand carved wooden features and large chandeliers. A vast plaza leads up to the mosque and serves as an outdoor prayer hall. Arched corridors surround the minaret while large titanium doors lead inside to an underground ablution hall with dozens of lotus shaped marble fountains. 

Good to Know.  The plaza in front of the mosque is free to visit after 5pm. Paid tours of the interior happen on the hour several times daily. 

Ligue Arab Park.  An immaculate city park with traditional Moroccan elements like symmetry, tiled fountains and native palms. Rows of towering palm trees line a fountain spanning the length of the park. Shaded walkways and grassy lawns flank its edges. Do as locals do and come here to picnic, read a book or enjoy company with friends. 

El Hank Lighthouse.  A pale yellow lighthouse with an Arabesque crown overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. It’s a scenic spot to watch the waves and popular for sunset. 

Mohammad V Square.  A plaza surrounded by historic and stately government buildings with a large fountain at its center. Wander the square to appreciate the architecture and surrounding neighborhood before sitting down at Al-Mounia, a landmark restaurant serving traditional Moroccan cuisine. Dine in their garden patio or ornate dining room, feasting on couscous and vegetable spreads paired with khobz. 

Old Portuguese Fort.  A small colonial era fort with bronze cannons and stone turrets built along the wall of the medina. It serves as an entry point to the medina and hosts, La Sqala, an atmospheric cafe and garden restaurant. Peach colored walls, blue painted shutters and Moroccan tiled tables accent the space as verdant plants grow throughout. Come here for afternoon tea, traditional baked goods and savory tagines. 

Rick’s Cafe.  Of all the gin joints in the world, this one is likely the most famous. The elegant space is styled after Rick's Café Américain from the 1942 film, Casablanca. Without reservations, we sat at the bar sipping on gin martinis and negronis. Call ahead to make dinner reservations and stay for the live jazz performances. 

Shop the Markets

The Great Habous Olive Market.  A historic market in the Habous Quarter dedicated solely to the sale of olives and olive oils. Terracotta trays with colorful mounds of olives are displayed on tables throughout the plaza. The tangy smell of brine wafts through the air as welcoming vendors offer free samples. We purchased a half kilo of mixed olives spiced with harissa and a bottle of the purest tasting olive oil. 

Central Marketplace.  A seafood marketplace with icy displays of freshly caught Atlantic seafood. Come here to enjoy a seafood meal prepared at one of the many no frills restaurants. Hosts playfully compete for customers, offering free sides dishes. We dined at Chez Lachen, ordering the pan fries sardines and freshly shucked oysters paired with khobz, za’alook, lentils, tomato salad and harissa. 

The Medina Market.  A market within the Medina lined with shops and vendors selling a range of goods including clothing, shoes, accessories, jewelry, textiles, oils, teas and spices. It caters heavily to locals looking for a deal. Enter the market through, Baba el Kebir, an arched sandstone gate within the Medina wall.

Chleuh Market.  A local morning market along Rue Chleuh in the Ancient Medina. Vendors display carts and wooden boxes with vegetables, fruits and freshly caught fish. The scent of fresh mint wafts from piles of herbs. Bakers deliver baskets of aromatic breads. Corner stores sell nuts, trays of dates and stacked cartons of eggs. Butchers behead chickens on the spot for paying customers. 

Moroccan Cuisine 

Tagine.  A mixture of vegetables, meats, dried fruits and spices stewed together in a conical clay dish. It’s a staple dishes of Moroccan cuisine.

Couscous.  A steamed grain covered in a savory broth and garnished with vegetables and meats.

Harira.  A traditional Moroccan soup made from tomatoes, chickpeas, fresh herb and aromatic spices.

Khobs Bread.  A light and airy flatbread served with every meal. It’s fresh baked daily and can be bought from for 1 DH from local bakeries. 

Msemmen.  A flaky and layered pan fried flat bread often eaten at breakfast with honey. It’s commonly cooked by street vendors on flat top griddles. 

Sfenj (Moroccan Donuts).  Yeasty rings of fried dough heavily coated in plain sugar. They’re a common street food snack and usually paired with a tiny cup of coffee. 

Moroccan Pastry.  Small pastries made from filo dough, peanuts, honey, orange blossom water and spices. They common to enjoy with mint tea. 

Mint Tea.  Hot tea made with fresh mint leaves and sugar cubes. It’s served as a common welcome drink.

Fresh Squeed Juice.  Juices are commonly drank across Morocco. Try fresh squeed orange, pomegranate or sugar cane from a street side juice cart. 

Moroccan Orange Soda.  Orange is one of the most popular flavors in Morocco. Try a Moroccan orange soda like Orangina or Hawai.

Arabic Words & Phrases 

Knowing a few worlds and phases in Arabic goes a long way in Moroccan when interacting with locals. Some of the most common and easy to remember are: 

• Hello = Salama

• Goodbye = Beslama

• Thank you = Shukran

• You’re welcome = Marhaba 

Location Specifics 

When to Visit.  September is the best month of the year to visit Morocco. It’s just before peak travel season with hot to moderate temperatures. Temperatures are typically cooler near the Atlantic coast in Casablanca. 

Language.  Arabic, French and English are commonly spoken by many people, seen on signage and menus. 

Cash vs Card.  Cash is preferred and often only accepted method of payment at many businesses. Confirm before ordering at restaurants or agreeing to services.

Safety.  Casablanca a generally safe destination to visit. Be aware of your surrounding and keep hold of personal belonging to avoid pick pocketing. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption or cooking with in Morocco. Only use bottled water. 

Alcohol.  The sale of alcohol is heavily controlled throughout the country. Only some restaurants will serve cocktails, beer and wine. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Moroccan laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Getting Around 

Airport Taxi.  There is a taxi stand past customs at the airport with regulated prices for taxis to Casablanca and to cities across the country. Expect to pay around $30 USD from the airport to the city. 

Petit Taxi.  Small red taxis present throughout the city. They’re safe, affordable and quick when getting around. Hail one off the street and negotiate price before getting in. Fares are usually under 100.

On Foot.  The city is easily walkable and generally safe, making it a fun way to get around and explore.

Elsewhere in Morocco

We spent a little over three weeks traveling across Morocco, experiencing so much of the country’s culture, cuisine and history. Drive across the Atlas Mountains to the Sahara Desert, making stops at palm oases and crumbing Kasbahs on a Moroccan Roadtrip. Get lost in the chaotic alleyways, spice markets and souks of Marrakesh. Explore the ancient medina and historic Islamic sights of Fes. Wander the azure streets and hillside of Chefchaouen, The Blue City.

Moroccan Roadtrip

From The Atlas to The Sahara

Morocco is a mesmerizing country with scenic landscapes, enchanting kasbahs and rich cultural influences. We spent a week roadtripping between the historic medinas of Marrakesh and Fez. The journey led us through the Atlas Mountains to desert towns, crumbling ksars, palm covered oases, steep gorges, sprawling sand dunes and Berber camps of the Sahara Desert. 

Ait Ben Haddou 

Ait Ben Haddou is a desert town famed for its ancient ksar, towering kasbahs and Berber culture. 

The Ancient Ksar.  Adobe buildings and four towered kasbahs rise from the hillside of the ancient ksar. Their sand hued facades blend in with the desert landscape. Berber patterns and geometric designs decorate their outer walls. Narrow streets and passageways meander past cafes with rooftop terraces and vendors selling Berber goods.

Pro Tip.  Walk through the empty streets of the ksar after the sun rises.

The Modern Village.  A contemporary expansion of the ancient ksar. Its sand hued buildings are home to local residents, tourist hotels, Moroccan restaurants and artisan. Rooftop terraces overlook the ancient ksar offering panoramic views of its grandeur and the surrounding landscape. 

Tour The Kasbahs.  Ait Ben Haddou’s kasbahs are worth visiting to experience local life and traditions. Their owners typically charge a small fee to enter.

• The Museum Kasbah.  A large kasbah with several connected rooms and a central staircase leading to the upper floors and the roof. Traditional tools, ceramics and textiles are displayed on interior walls. The roof offers views of the ancient ksar, its neighboring kasbahs and adobe houses. 

• The Widow’s Kasbah.  A crumbling kasbah still inhabited by an older woman. She toured us through the ground floor, showing us her kitchen, bedroom and living area where she weaves. She let us explore the abandoned upper floor.

• Maison de l'Oralité.  A large kasbah converted into a museum and cultural center dedicated to Berber arts, language and traditions. Its exhibits feature traditional musical instruments, weaving tools and looms, historic photos and stories of local folklore. The kasbah is one of the best preserved and still half occupied by a local family.Visit its rooftop for views of the ksar and surrounding landscape. 

Ksar vs Kasbah.  Two terms used to describe the architecture of desert villages like Ait Ben Haddou. 

• Ksar refers to the walled city or fortified village made up of one or multiple kasbahs and surrounding houses.

• Kasbah is a wealthy family’s house, often built within a ksar. They’re larger than surrounding houses and defined by their four cornered towers.

Berber Souks.  Ait Ben Haddou was built along an ancient Berber caravan route. Berber craft and culture continues to prosper in souks of the ancient ksar. The narrow alleyways are lined with vendors displaying traditional goods and antiques. Shops sell metal jewelry, patterned rugs, colorful scarves, desert knives, brass lamps, clay pottery, carved wooden locks and paintings. 

Good to Know.  Accept mint tea if offered by a shopkeeper, it’s Berber hospitality. Sit down and chat for a few minutes. Leave when ready and don’t feel pressured to buy anything. 

Pro Tip.  Ait Ben Haddou is a good place to buy Moroccan and Berber made items. Vendors are less aggressive than in larger cities and prices are often reasonable.

The Ounila River.  A river separating The Ancient Ksar and Modern Village. Walk across its foot bridge or the stepping stones to transit in-between. 

• Foot Bridge.  A pedestrian bridge leading directly between the modern village and ancient ksar. It’s free to cross and flanked by local restaurants and vendors. 

• Stepping Stones.  During the dry season, stepping stones and sand bags create makeshift paths across the muddy river. This route offers scenic views of the ksar and its kasbahs.

• Pro Tip.  Follow the stepping stones across the river and walk downstream to the olive groves. A trail passes through them leading to the ksar’s eastern gate. This route avoids paying to enter or exit through the kasbahs. 

Ait Ben Haddou Viewpoints.  The ancient ksar is surrounded by different photogenic viewpoints from hilltop lookouts, rooftop terraces and street scenes. 

• Ksar d'Aït Ben Haddou Sunset Point.  A viewpoint on the narrow road near the top of the ksar. It offers panoramic views of the city and desert landscape. It’s especially popular at sunset but good to visit at any time of day. 

• Viewpoint Ait Ben Haddou.  A hilltop viewpoint with panoramic views of the ancient ksar and its adobe buildings. Visit at sunrise to see the sand hued city illuminated in an orange glow. Revisit during the mid morning to admire all of its intricate designs and details in full daylight.

• Street Viewpoint for Aït Benhaddou.  A sandstone roadway in the modern village leading towards the Ounila River and ancient ksar.  

• La Table de la Kasbah Ait Ben Haddou.  A rooftop cafe in the ancient ksar with views of its adobe kasbahs and the desert landscape. The stylish terrace is decorated in Moroccan poofs, rugs and pillows. Visit during golden hour or sunset to enjoy a pot of mint tea with Moroccan pastries.

Places to Eat, Drink & Stay 

• La Terrazza.  A restaurant with Moroccan style pizzas topped with local ingredients like olives, eggplant, tomato and zucchini. It’s one of the few restaurants that offers alcoholic drinks. 

• Tawesna Salon de Thé.  A bakery and tea house in the ancient ksar next to the bridge. Come here to enjoy a pot of mint tea with a spread of sweet and buttery Moroccan cookies.

• La Fibule Dor Ait Ben Haddou.  An adobe style hotel in the modern village. Its rooms are decorated with Moroccan lamps, Berber textiles and handmade artwork. Its rooftop and many rooms boast panoramic views of the ancient ksar. Our stay included a Moroccan breakfast with a spread of cheeses, jams, dates, olives, eggs and bread. We booked on Airbnb.

Tips for Visiting Ait Ben Haddou:

• Stay Overnight.  Plan to stay at least one night in Ait Ben Haddou to get the most out of visiting the ancient ksar. 

• Visit Solo.  Avoid group tours and visit in your own. You’ll have more time to explore freely. 

• Time of Day.  Visit before 8:30am to avoid crowds.

• Cash vs Credit. Carry cash and small coins for most payments. Credit card is not commonly accepted. 

• Drink Water.  Stay hydrated and carry water when walking around, especially during the afternoon heat. 

• Getting Here.  Ait Ben Haddou is reachable from Marrakesch by car. The scenic drive leads 3 hours through the foot hills of the Altas Mountains. 

Ouarzazate

Ouarzazate is a desert city renowned for its movie studios and historic kasbahs. It’s often referred to as “The Moroccan Hollywood” and “The Gateway to the Desert.”

Atlas Studios.  A vast film studio and one of Ouarzazate’s most famous with sets dating back to the 1960s. It’s particularly eye catching for its large scale Egyptian sets comprised of colorful temples, tombs and statues. Sets blur into one another, transitioning between Egyptian, Roman, medieval and desert towns. Vehicles like gladiator chariots, military trucks, replica sports cars, viking ships and aircraft are displayed throughout. Scenes from the Mummy, Gladiator and James Bond have all been filmed here. Tickets include guided tours of the sets with movie references, photo opps and free time to explore at your own pace afterwards.

Taourirt Kasbah.  A large and once prosperous kasbah in the center of Ouarzazate. It’s comprised of orange hued adobe buildings embossed with Berber patterns and geometric shapes. Their maze-like interiors are comprised of staircases and passageways that lead between disparate rooms, multiple levels and rooftop terraces. Repairs have been ongoing since the 2023 earthquake. Workers mix piles of mud, straw and water to create adobe bricks and plaster. 

Getting Here.  Ouarzazate is reachable from Ait Ben Haddou by car. It takes less than 1 hour to reach if driving. 

Kasbah Amridil

Kasbah Amridil is one of the largest and best preserved kasbahs in Morocco. Its sprawling structure is situated in the middle of the Skouras Palmerie, a palm covered oasis home to dozens of historic kasbahs and crumbling adobe ruins. The kasbah’s sand colored facade and adobe towers are decorated in intricate Berber patterns. It’s divided into three sections including two museums and a restaurant. 

L’Entree Officelle.  One of two museum entrances to Kasbah Amridil. Its historic interiors and rooms are restored with beige plastered walls and diamond tiled floors. A light-well illuminates its center while a staircase leads to the its floors, rooftop terrace and towers. The upper courtyard features Arab and Moorish style arches. It overlooks the palm covered oasis, neighboring kasbahs and crumbling ruins.

Entree Principale.  The second museum entrance to Kasbah Amridil. It’s the most historic and originally maintained section. It features adobe walls, straw and mud floors, kitchens with clay ovens and displays with antique tools. Stairs lead from an open air courtyard to the upper floors and rooms. Rooftop terraces offer views of the kasbah towers and oasis. 

Kasbah Amridil Restaurant.  The third section of the kasbah is a restaurant. Its second floor terrace has the best views of the entire kasbah and Skouras Palmerie. Visit here last for a light meal and afternoon mint tea.

Tips for Visiting Kasbah Amridil 

• Tickets.  Tickets cost 40 DH per person for each L’Entree Officelle and Entree Principale. If you only have time to visit one section of the Kasbah, visit the Entree Principale.

• Getting Here.  The Skouras Palmerie and Kasbah Amridil are reachable from Ouarzazate by car. It takes about 1-1/2 hours to reach if driving. 

Todra Gorge 

The Todra Gorge is a massive river canyon in the High Atlas Mountains with steep walls, a natural spring and a palm oasis. Its orange and brown rock walls rise hundreds of feet above the river bed. A natural spring bubbles from the ground supplying the river and oasis with a continual supply of fresh water.

Hiking and Rock Climbing.  A hiking trail begins at the parking lot past the narrowest section of the gorge. It loops 13km across the desert landscape. We only hiked 1km due to lack of time. The walls of the gorge are popular with experienced rock climbers.

La Maison d’Hotes Riad Todra.  A small hotel at the mouth of the Todra Gorge. Its rooms are basic but suitable for a single night stay. It has a restaurant with Moroccan lounges overlooking a small oasis. The host prepared a vegetable tagine for dinner and spread for breakfast. We booked on Airbnb. 

Palmeraie de Tinghir.  A vast oasis stretching from the mouth of the Todra Gorge to the city of Tinghir. Groves of fig, olive, date and pomegranates trees grow in the verdant valley. Crumbling ruins of historic kasbahs line its rugged edges. Roadside lookouts offer panoramic views of surrounding landscape.

• Mirador de Palmeraie.  A roadside viewpoint of the palm covered oasis, its abandoned adobe kasbahs and the mountainside. Use this Map Pin for the location. 

• Oasis de Toudgha Vue Panoramique.  A lookout point closer to town with sweeping views of the oasis, its farmland and distant mountains. Use this Map Pin for the location. 

Tips for Visiting The Todra Gorge:

• Visit Early.  Arrive in the early morning, just after sunset to see the gorge in its most natural state without any vendors or tour buses. 

• Beware of Dogs.  Packs of stray dogs can be aggressive. Even if unprovoked, they try to bite at people’s ankles. Raise your hand in a fist and shout at them if they get too close.

• Getting Here.  The Todra Gorge is reachable after driving 3 hours from the Skouras Palmerie.

Merzouga Desert 

The Merzouga Desert is an expansive area with towering orange dunes and desert camps on the edge of the Sahara. It’s a popular place for camel trekking, dune exploration and stargazing.

Sahara Wellness Camp

The Sahara Wellness Camp is a Berber style desert camp nestled between sand dunes on the edge of the Merzouga Desert. It offers traditional accommodations, desert excursions and Moroccan meals. Reserve on Booking. 

Dune Hikes.  Hiking the dunes is one of the best ways to experience the Merzouga Desert. Meander along their sandy crests, steep slopes and shifting terrain. The rippled sand is often covered in signs of life. Look for animal prints from migratory birds, tiny mice and desert foxes. Patches of green grasses flourish from otherwise barren desert after seasonal rains.

Pro Tip.  Plan to hike the dunes in the early morning or late afternoon. Bring enough water to stay hydrated. For safety, let the camp know where you’ll be hiking and when you expect to return. 

Watch the Sunset.  Sunset in the desert is a magical time of day. The sun casts long shadows across the dunes as it slips below their crests. It makes way to the starry night sky and cool evenings. We watched from atop a small dune while sipping on glasses of Moroccan wine. 

Stargazing.  The Merzouga Desert is a dark sky area with stunning views of the starry night sky. We saw meteors streak across the heavens, watched satellites orbit overhead, spotted planets, stars and constellations. Download Sky Tonight, a free star spotting app utilizing augmented reality. 

Amazigh Music.  On most nights, the camp staff will light a bonfire and perform traditional Amazigh music using drums and tambourines. The beat is very rhythmic, creating a relaxing atmosphere for the end of the night.

Sunrise Camel Trekking.  Berber men lead caravans of camels and campers into the dunes to watch the sunrise. We rode a pair to a scenic point in the desert. The camels steadily paced across the dunes with us on their humped backs. The desert landscape glowed as the warm sun rose across the orange sand. 

Good to Know.  Berber camels are very well treated, given time to rest, eat and drink between walks. 

Merzouga Tour.  The camp offers an experience to learn about the local culture, history and nomadic peoples of Merzouga Desert. We started the morning by sipping on mint tea with a Berber family. We listened to the rhythmic drums and chants of a Gnawa musical performance. Our guide brought us to an abandoned mining town to hike and shop for Paleozoic era fossils found in the area. We visited a community farm and harvested fresh dates. The tour ended with an adventurous dune ride back to camp. 

Tips for Visiting The Merzouga Desert:

• Getting Here.  The Merzouga Desert is reachable from the Todra Gorge by car. It takes between 3-4 hours to reach if driving. The camp is reachable by SUV or camel trekking across the dunes. 

• Camp Fees.  Staying at the camp is very inexpensive. Optional activities, meals and transportation cost extra however prices can be negotiated.

• Desert Activities.  Once at the camp, what you make of the experience is entirely up to you. Simply relax, explore on your own or book paid activities. For the full experience, plan to stay more than one night.

• Camp Meals.  The meals are one of the highlights the desert camp. The chef prepares individually made meals for each guest. We enjoyed Berber omelettes, vegetable tagines and Moroccan spreads. 

• Daytime Heat.The interiors of the tents get extremely hot during the day. It’s best to relax in the shaded open air tents and enjoy the peacefulness of the desert. 

• Attire.  Wear flowy and light colored clothes during the day. Bring sunglasses. Dress in layers during the cool evenings. Check the forecast ahead of time. 

Moroccan & Berber Cuisine 

Berber Omelette.  An omelette cooked in a tagine with olive oil, onions and spices. It’s common in the Berber regions of Morocco like the desert and mountains. 

Tagine.  A mixture of vegetables, meats, dried fruits and spices stewed together in a conical clay dish. It’s a staple dishes of Moroccan cuisine.

Couscous.  A steamed grain covered in a savory broth and garnished with vegetables and meats.

Khobs Bread.  A light and airy flatbread served with every meal. It’s fresh baked daily and can be bought from for 1 DH from local bakeries. 

Mint Tea.  Hot tea made with fresh mint leaves and sugar cubes. It’s served as a common welcome drink.

Orange Drinks.  Orange is one of the most popular flavors in Morocco. Fresh squeezed orange juice and sodas are commonly drank. Try Orangina or Hawai.

Dates.  A dried fruit from the date palm tree. They come in dozens of variety and can be found across Morocco. They’re eat at breakfast or as snacks. Try them stuffed with a walnut. 

Driving in Morocco 

Driving in Morocco comes with benefits and challenges. While we enjoyed our roadtrip we have some pros, cons and lessons learned we wish we knew beforehand. 

• Pros.  The roads are well maintained, gas stations are frequent, the landscape is beautiful and you have freedom of being on your own schedule.

• Cons.Fake speed traps, police corruption and reckless drivers make driving in Morocco stressful and difficult. 

• Where to Rent.  We rented from Sixt at the Marrakech airport and returned it at the Fez airport a week later. 

Rest Stops.  Half the joy of a taking a roadtrip is making unexpected stops when something catches your eye. We stopped several times throughout our journey to check something out including remote roadside cafes, camel crossings, panoramic viewpoints, Berber craft stands and fossil and meteorite shops. 

Corrupt Speed Traps

Corrupt speed traps are common across Morocco. If driving, you’re all but guaranteed to be fined by police officers. Patrols of the Royal Moroccan Gendarmerie will signal you to pull over, confiscate your license and passport, then ask you to pay a cash fine for any number of reasons.

Examples of Traps: 

• Reduced Speed Signs.  Police set up a series of rapidly descending speed limit signs spaced mere meters apart hoping to entrap drivers.

• Hidden Stop Signs.  Police place hidden stop signs directly behind a high speed limit signs to entrap drivers. 

• Painted Speed Signs.  Police paint over posted speed limit signs to obscure the actual speed. 

How to React: 

• Option 1.  Pay the cash “fine.” They typically request 300-400 Dirham. They will not provide a ticket or receipt.

• Option 2.  Respectfully dispute the “fine.” Push back and ask for evidence as well as a formal written ticket. If legitimate, this needs to be paid in cash on the spot or at a police station.

• Option 3.  Respectfully dispute the “fine.” Push back and let the police know you did not violate the traffic laws. Mentioned that you’ve already been pulled over, paid a fine and reported the past incident to your embassy. Corrupt police will back down in fear of being reported at the mention of diplomatic support.

Document Evidence.  When approaching a speed trap, immediately slow down to 20km and have a passenger record the speedometer and posted signs. This can be used as proof to dispute the “traffic violation.” Document evidence of the encounter including the time, location, officer names and badge numbers. Be careful not to directly photograph or record the police. This is considered “illegal journalism” in Morocco. 

Arabic Words & Phrases 

Knowing a few worlds and phases in Arabic goes a long way in Moroccan when interacting with locals. Some of the most common and easy to remember are: 

• Hello = Salama

• Goodbye = Beslama

• Thank you = Shukran

• You’re welcome = Marhaba 

Location Specifics 

When to Visit.  September is the best month of the year to visit Morocco. It’s just before peak travel season with hot to moderate temperatures. 

Language.  Arabic, French and English are commonly spoken by many people, seen on signage and menus. 

Cash vs Card.  Cash is preferred and often only accepted method of payment at many businesses. Confirm before ordering at restaurants or agreeing to services.

Safety.  Morocco is a generally safe destination to visit. Be aware of your surrounding and keep hold of personal belonging to avoid pick pocketing. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption or cooking with in Morocco. Only use bottled water. 

Alcohol.  The sale of alcohol is heavily controlled throughout the country. Only some restaurants will serve cocktails, beer and wine.

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Moroccan laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Elsewhere in Morocco

We spent a little over three weeks traveling across Morocco, experiencing so much of the country’s culture, cuisine and history. Get lost in the chaotic alleyways, spice markets and souks of Marrakesh. Explore the ancient medina and historic Islamic sights of Fes. Wander the azure streets and hillside of Chefchaouen, The Blue City. Enjoy the coastal atmosphere and influences of in Casablanca.

For Next Time…

The Atlas Mountains and desert landscape of Morocco is a beautiful place, especially with extra time.

Stay in Ouarzazate.  We recommend spending at least one night here to experience the town, its souks and movie studios in depth.

Merzouga Lake.  A seasonal lake formed during the Merzouga Desert’s August rains. It’s a popular place to spot migratory flamingos. 

Ozoud Waterfalls.  A series of cascading waterfalls in the High Atlas Mountains. Trails leads up the falls to natural swimming pools. 

Chefchaouen, The Blue City

Chefchaouen, The Blue City

Chefchaouen, known as The Blue City, is famed for its azure and sky blue painted medina. Historic mosques and a medieval kasbah tower above Moorish plazas. Water flows from vividly tiled fountains. Moroccan artisans display handmade crafts along narrow streets. Vendors sell fresh fruit juices to thirsty customers. Stray cats and kittens roam everywhere. Trails lead up rugged hillsides with panoramic views.  

The Historic Medina 

Chefchaouen’s historic medina is the oldest section of the city with the highest concentration of blue painted buildings. Its labyrinth of walkways passes beneath blue colored archways and canopies of leafy grape vines. Cobblestone alleys meander past quiet residences and through lively souks. Picturesque staircases dead end at cobalt hued doors. The medina is truly a photographer’s dream. 

Callejon El Asri.  One of the most vibrantly blue colored streets in the medina. Picturesque staircases with and narrow alleyways branch off on both sides as it meanders through the town. 

Rue Ibn Asskar.  A blue street weaving through the center of the medina along a series staircases, of arched walkways, decorated staircases, tiled fountains and artisan vendors. 

Rue Imman Chadili.  A souk street with blue painted walls covered in colorful decor, baskets, clothes, ceramics and woven goods.

See the Sights 

Plaza Uta el Hamman.  A cobblestone plaza lies at the heart of the medina, framed by tree covered buildings and historic landmarks. Serving as the main hub for sightseeing, dining, and shopping, it features a Moorish fountain at its center, with the Grand Mosque and the Kasbah flanking one side. Restaurants, cafes, and shops line its perimeter, while narrow streets and walkways branch out in all directions.

The Kasbah.  A medieval fortress stands at the center of the medina. It’s defined by sand colored adobe walls, battlement towers, former prison and lush courtyard garden filled with palms, cacti, and diverse plant life. One of its towers houses a museum showcasing traditional Moroccan plaster, tile, and woodwork. The upper levels of another provide sweeping views of the blue city and forested hillside.

Place El Haouta.  A stone paved plaza in the medina centered on a small yet ornate Moorish style fountain. It’s surrounded by blue and white painted buildings topped with terracotta roofs. Intimate cafes and shops line is perimeter offering scenic views of the rugged mountainside. 

Plaza Mohammed V.  Just outside the medina, a circular plaza provides a tranquil place to rest and views of historic buildings. It features brick and Spanish-tiled fountains and benches. Lush flower beds and verdant trees grow amid grassy lawns. Visitors can walk beneath grapevine covered pergolas and sculpted bushes.

Lavadero de la Ciudad.  A freshwater stream once used for washing laundry now serves as a lively gathering place lined with juice bars and cafes. Oranges, pomegranates and melons float in canals of cool water as vendors hand press fresh juices. Locals relax along the stream, enjoying refreshments before or after hiking to the Bouzafer Mosque. Juices typically cost 15–20 DH.

Bouzafer Mosque.  A small hilltop mosque with panoramic views of the blue city, surrounding mountains and sunset. It’s a scenic 15 minute walk from the Lavadero de la Ciudad. Along the route, vendors often sell cookies to passersby. 

Artisan Alleys.  The blue painted alleys of Chefchaouen are home to artisan vendors selling Moroccan textiles and rugs, handmade paintings, brass artifacts, jewelry, ceramics, baskets, amlou paste, teas, spices and souvenirs.Artisans are generally friendly but can seem aggressive knowing that most visitors are only in Chefchaouen for a short period of time. Like in all souks, haggling is encouraged. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

El Cielo Restaurant.  A semi secluded restaurant located in a garden of the Medina next to a historic mosque. Their menu features Mediterranean and Moroccan spreads, tagines, kebabs and pitas. For dessert, try the Jawhara, a flaky pastry lawyered between tiers of custard. Reserve a spot in the garden ahead of time. 

Pain Chaouen.  A small bakery with a large range of French and Moroccan patisserie. Come here for the flaky croissants, butter cookies and glazed donuts. 

Break Coffee.  A takeaway cafe with all the usual types of coffees. It’s open early and stays open late for those in need of a caffeine fix. 

Where to Stay

Hotel Chams.  A small hotel located in the center of the medina near the Plaza Uta el Hamman. Each floor has multiple sized rooms and a shared bathroom. A rooftop terrace offers panoramic views of the city and mountainside. Reserve on Booking. 

Getting to Chefchaouen

Chefchaouen is reachable from Fes by shuttle. Shared shuttles transfer passengers between both cities multiple times daily. The route takes about 4 hours one way. We booked with 3T Travel on Get Your Guide. 

Location Specifics

Photo Fees.  Many homeowners charge a small fee ranging from 10-20 DH for a photo of their door, house, alleyway, etc. Carry small bills and coins for payments. 

How Long to Visit.  Chefchaouen can be explored in a half day but it’s best to stay for at least one night to watch the sunset and explore in the early morning.

Early Mornings.  Plan to explore the Medina in the early morning to see its blue painted streets and staircases before vendors display their goods. Much like Fes, most shops don’t begin setting up until 10am. 

Blue Stains.  Be careful when leaning against or sitting on blue painted surfaces. The pigment can rub off and stain light clothes. 

Illegal Drugs.  Drug dealers commonly try to sell hashish and cannabis to tourists. They may also invite you to visit their farm. Simply tell them no thank you if not interested and they’ll leave you alone. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Moroccan laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Elsewhere in Morocco

We spent a little over three weeks traveling across Morocco, experiencing so much of the country’s culture, cuisine and history. Drive across the Atlas Mountains to the Sahara Desert, making stops at palm oases and crumbing Kasbahs on a Moroccan Roadtrip. Get lost in the chaotic alleyways, spice markets and souks of Marrakesh. Explore the ancient medina and historic Islamic sights of Fes. Enjoy the coastal atmosphere and influences of in Casablanca.

For Next Time…

Morocco is a beautiful destination with historic cities, scenic landscapes and cultural allure. We have a shortlist of places to visit when we return. 

Meknes.  An ancient city at the heart of Morocco’s wine producing region. Its nearby vineyards offer tours, tastings and wine pairings. 

Volubilis.  An ancient Roman city with well preserved ruins and mosaics from the former empire. 

Essaouira.  A port city on the Atlantic with a picturesque medina, coastal ramparts and fresh seafood restaurants.

Fes, Morocco

Fes, Morocco

Fes is an ancient city and the cultural heart of Morocco. Centuries of craft and tradition continue in the souks as artisans shape metal, dye leather, weave carpets and haggle with curious customers. Picturesque mosques, soaring minarets and madrassas rise above maze-like alleyways that weave through the sprawling medina. Historical museums recount its place in Moroccan history while the royal palace emphasizes its continued influence. Luxurious riads offer a calming retreat from the bustle of the city that continues to attract worldly travelers. 

Fes el Bali (The Old Medina) 

Fes el Bali is the historic medina at the heart of Fes. It’s a living labyrinth of narrow alleys and hilly paths that overwhelm the senses. Quiet mornings and empty streets transition into bustling souks teeming with artisan goods. Throngs of people press through as vespas part crowds and stray cats slip through shadows. The call to prayer echoes from towering minarets. Islamic monuments, tiled fountains and medieval architecture layer the medina in history and intricate patterns. Wooden beams stretch between structures as if holding one another upright. Centuries-old doors open into hidden riads while dark passageways lead through ancient buildings like subterranean tunnels. The best way to truly experience the medina is to get lost within it. 

Fes El-Jedid.  Established in the 17th century around the royal palace and gardens, the “new medina” is a largely residential area of Fez. It combines narrow alleyways with wider commercial streets, local souks and scattered artisan shops. It offers a quieter glimpse into daily life and Moroccan traditions.

Souks & Markets

Souks, traditional Moroccan markets, weave through the medina in bustling alleyways of shops and vendors. They’re a wonderful place to experience Moroccan culture! They brim with vibrant colors, fragrant scents and lively sounds of haggling customers. Stalls overflow with aromatic goods like spices, teas and perfumes while others showcase artisan crafts like Berber carpets, brass lamps and leather goods. 

Rue Talaa Kebira.  A lengthy souk street meandering through the center of the old medina. Beginning near the Al Attarine Madrasa, it climbs uphill toward Bab Boujloud. The souk’s rich tapestry of artisans and vendors display Moroccan home decor such as rugs, poufs and brass lanterns. Merchants and customers haggle over leather goods, scarves and jewelry. Spice shops, small cafes and unassuming eateries add local flavors to the mix. A farmers market provides locals with fresh produce, meats and grains. Narrow alleyways  continually branch off, leading deeper into the medina. Visit the souk street of Rue Talaa Sghira for a similar experience. 

Souk Seffarine.  A metalworking souk centered around a small plaza in the old medina. The rhythm of sharp clangs echo throughout the air as artisans hammer copper disks into dishes to cook Moroccan pastilla. Metalworkers labor in the open plaza and inside cluttered studios while shopkeepers display copper tagines, teapots, brass lamps, antiques and a variety of goods. 

Souk Nejjarine.  A small woodworking souk in the plaza outside of the Nejjarine Museum. Artisans chisel away at blocks of wood, whittle figurines and spin lathes to create decorative boxes, berber locks and ornate reliefs. 

The Anou Cooperative.  A cooperative uniting female weavers from communities across Morocco. It allows them to sell their work directly rather than through souk wholesalers, supporting their livelihoods and preserving traditional craft. The studio offers artisan led workshops and weaving residencies, including a half day workshop where we learned to hand knot our own miniature rugs. A small showroom displays unique rugs, hand dyed yarns and other woven items. Custom items can be ordered through their Online Shop.

See the Sights

Nejjarine Museum.  A museum showcasing Morocco’s wooden craftsmanship. Housed in a restored wooden building, three floors of galleries focus on a different aspects of woodworking. Exhibits display Moroccan wood species, woodworking tools, home decor, musical instruments and architectural elements. 

Tanneries de Fes.  A historic tannery that offers a vivid glimpse into traditional Moroccan leather making. A series of layered vats filled with chemical solutions and dyes sprawls across the tannery. The air is pungent but manageable. Stacks of cow, goat, camel and sheep skins wait to be processed. Wooden water wheels tumble and wash hides as workers soften them with wooden mallets and dry treated pieces on covered racks. The process can be observed from surrounding rooftops. Finished leather goods are sold in nearby shops and souks. 

Getting Here.  Walk through a passageway on the left side of the Nejjarine Museum. There is a leather goods shop with rooftop views of the tanneries. They allow free access in exchange for perusing their products. 

Nejjarine Museum Rooftop.  The rooftop of the Nejjarine Museumoffers panoramic views of the medina while woodworking artisans display their craft in the plaza below. There is a small cafe up here serving coffees and Moroccan teas.

Al Attarine Madrasa.  A remarkably ornate 14th century university located in the old medina. At its heart lies an open air courtyard layered with intricately styled plasterwork, finely carved wooden features and multi colored geometric tiles. Floors of private study rooms surround it, creating a space that blends Islamic scholarship and craftsmanship.

Pro Tip.  Arrive at 10am when it opens before large tour groups arrive. 

Al Quaraouiyine.  A massive mosque and madrasa home to the world’s oldest university, founded in 859 CE. Non Muslims can admire its exquisite courtyard through the arched wooden doors. The mosque’s distinctive green tiled roof and minaret are visible from the nearby Al Attarine Madrasa.

Tomb of Moulay Idriss.  An ornate 8th century tomb, dedicated to the founder of Fes. Its interior is reserved for Muslims while the exterior can be viewed by all. Its facade is decorated with elaborate plasterwork, intricately arranged tiles and gold painted designs. Vendors line the street surrounding it, offering sand brewed spice coffee and sweet nougats.

Dar Batha Museum.  Housed in a former royal palace, this historical museum showcases artifacts distinct to Moroccan craftsmanship, scientific advancements and cultural identity. Exhibits include early Quranic calligraphy, architectural elements from Fes’ first mosques and the art of Zellige tilework. Other galleries feature  objects like woven rugs, textiles, pottery, jewelry and weaponry, highlight sciences like geometry, astronomy and horology and the role of water and light in designing tiled fountains and intricate brass lamps. 

Jnan Sbil.  A city park located between the new and old medinas. Its shaded walkways, sputtering fountains and alley of towering palm trees attract locals and lost tourists looking for a quiet escape from the chaos of the souks.

Fes Ancient Wall.  The medina of Fes is surrounded by an ancient stone wall with several ornately tiled and arched gates. Outer walls and fortresses provided additional layers of protection during the medieval period.

• Bab Boujeloud.  A beautifully tiled arched gate marking a main entrance to the old medina. Its exterior side is clad in ornate blue tiles and the interior in green. The lively street beyond is lined with shops, restaurants, and tea houses, opening onto a large plaza outside.

• Borj Nord Lookout Point.  A defensive fortress built beyond the medina’s walls. It houses an arms museum displaying historic weapons and armor. Its elevated position, along with nearby cliffside lookouts, offer expansive views over the city and surrounding countryside.

Places to Eat & Drink 

Restaurant Dar Khabya Original.  Hidden within the edge of the souks, a small and unassuming restaurant with some of the tastiest Moroccan cuisine, including vegetarian options like pastilla, tagine and fruit juices. Prices are inexpensive and portions are generous. 

Cafe Clock.  An alleyway coffee shop with a terrace overlooking a neighboring minaret and the rooftops of Fes. Come here for Moroccan coffees, cookies and local dishes. 

Cofee Kortoba El Karaouine.  A street-side bakery with freshly made trays of Moroccan patisserie like Gazelle Horns, crescent shaped pastries filled with almond paste, or Ghriba, crumbly almond cookies. 

Moroccan Cuisine 

Tagine.  A mixture of vegetables, meats, dried fruits and spices stewed together in a conical clay dish. It’s a staple dishes of Moroccan cuisine.

Couscous.  A steamed grain covered in a savory broth and garnished with vegetables and meats.

Harira.  A Moroccan soup made from tomatoes, chickpeas, fresh herb and aromatic spices. It’s typically vegetarian. 

Khobs Bread.  A light and airy flatbread served with every meal. It’s fresh baked daily and can be bought from for 1 DH from local bakeries. 

Msemmen.  A flaky and layered pan fried flat bread often eaten at breakfast with honey. It’s commonly cooked by street vendors on flat top griddles. 

Sfenj (Moroccan Donuts).  Yeasty rings of fried dough heavily coated in plain sugar. They’re a common street food snack and usually paired with a tiny cup of coffee. 

Mint Tea.  Hot tea made with fresh mint leaves and sugar cubes. It’s served as a common welcome drink.

Fresh Squeezed Juice.  Juices are commonly drank across Morocco. Try fresh squeed orange, pomegranate or sugar cane from a street side juice cart. 

Moroccan Orange Soda.  Orange is one of the most popular flavors in Morocco. Try a Moroccan orange soda like Orangina or Hawai.

Stay in a Riad

Fes is famed for its elaborate Riads, traditional Moroccan guest houses. They offer tranquil places to stay within the heart of the chaotic medina. 

Riad in Old Fes Place Seffarine.  A maze of narrow alleyways leads through the souks to this hidden gem in the  medina. Its door opens up to an elaborate courtyard decorated in Moroccan tiles, exquisite plasterwork and carved wooden panels. A tiled stairways leads to tiny seating areas and a rooftop with panoramic views of Fes. Grand suites fit the sultans of old provide travelers with a luxurious Moroccan experience. We booked our stay 6 months in advance on Airbnb. 

Getting Around 

On Foot.  Fes and its medina are best explored on foot. The maze of winding streets and narrow alleyways offers a true glimpse into the history of the city. While the medina is large and hilly, most walkways are covered, providing welcome shade from the hot sun. You don’t need a guide; expect to get lost, turned around and come to dead ends. Navigating gets easier after the first day. 

Good to Know.  Ignore people trying to offer directions. They may ask where you’re going, tell you a road or place is closed, try leading you into a shop or ask for a tip.

Petit Taxi.  Small red taxis are present throughout the city. They’re safe, affordable and quick when getting around. Hail one off the street or near a gate to the medina.  Fares cost between 10-20 Dirham for short distances and up to 100 Dirham between the medina and airport. Always confirm price and destination before getting in. Petit taxis are shared so drivers may stop to pick up other passengers along the route.

Arabic Words & Phrases 

Knowing a few worlds and phases in Arabic goes a long way in Moroccan when interacting with locals. Some of the most common and easy to remember are: 

• Hello = Salama

• Goodbye = Beslama

• Thank you = Shukran

• You’re welcome = Marhaba 

Location Specifics

When to Visit.  September is the best month of the year to visit Morocco. It’s just before peak travel season with hot to moderate temperatures. 

Language.  Arabic, French and English are commonly spoken by many people, seen on signage and menus. 

Cash vs Card.  Cash is preferred and often only accepted method of payment at many businesses. Confirm before ordering at restaurants or agreeing to services.

Safety.  The medina is a generally safe destination to visit. Be aware of your surrounding and keep hold of personal belonging to avoid pick pocketing. 

Dress Conservatively.  Don’t show too much skin, try to cover most tattoos and remove piercing. 

Berber Hospitality.  Shopkeepers often offer mint tea when visiting their shops, it’s respectful to accept. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption or cooking with in Morocco. Only use bottled water. 

Alcohol.  The sale of alcohol is heavily controlled throughout the country. Very few establishments serve cocktails, beer or wine in Fes. 

Slow Mornings.  Mornings in Fes are slow. Most businesses and shops don’t open until at least 10am. 

Friday Closures.  Friday is a day of prayer and rest in Islam. The city is quieter than other days. Many shops, restaurants and businesses are closed during this time.

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Moroccan laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Elsewhere in Morocco

We spent a little over three weeks traveling across Morocco, experiencing so much of the country’s culture, cuisine and history. Drive across the Atlas Mountains to the Sahara Desert, making stops at palm oases and crumbing Kasbahs on a Moroccan Roadtrip. Get lost in the chaotic alleyways, spice markets and souks of Marrakesh. Wander the azure streets and hillside of Chefchaouen, The Blue City. Enjoy the coastal atmosphere and influences of in Casablanca.

For Next Time…

Morocco is a beautiful destination with historic cities, scenic landscapes and cultural allure. We have a shortlist of places to visit when we return. 

Meknes.  An ancient city at the heart of Morocco’s wine producing region. Its nearby vineyards offer tours, tastings and wine pairings. 

Volubilis.  An ancient Roman city with well preserved ruins and mosaics from the former empire. 

Essaouira.  A port city on the Atlantic with a picturesque medina, coastal ramparts and fresh seafood restaurants. 

Marrakech, Morocco

Marrakech, Morocco

Marrakech is an intoxicating destination, both chaotic and charming. Maze-like alleyways wind through the walled medina, past historic buildings adorned with intricate architectural details. Bustling souks brim with artisans and colorful displays of rugs, luminous brass lamps, vivid spices and Moroccan sweets. Narrow streets open to lively plazas filled with performers and vendors, as the scents of mint tea and tagines drift through the air. 

The Medina 

The medina is the historic center of Marrakech. Arched gates lead into a maze of winding alleys and shadowed passageways. Warm sandstone building line cobblestone streets, their adobe facades softened by time. Ornate wooden doors and intricate archways lead to Islamic landmarks. Roadside stalls overflow with vegetables and spices as donkey carts rattle past. Crowds move through bustling souks, haggling with shopkeepers, while restaurants and cafes compete for attention. Riads provide calm retreats from the chaos and heat while rooftop terraces offer sweeping views of the ancient city and its towering minarets. 

Bab Doukkala.  Daily life unfolds in this traditional corner of the medina. Small souks and street vendors cater to local needs. Intimate tea houses and neighborhood restaurants bring together locals and tourists. Side streets branch into alleyways and dead ends, often revealing the calm rhythm within the maze. 

Mellah.  The old Jewish quarter offers a glimpse into everyday life. Shaded arcades support lively souks while side streets lead to quiet residential areas. The scent of warm baked breads drifts from bakeries. Visible signs of earthquake damage and ongoing repairs mark the resilience and enduring character of the neighborhood.

Shop the Souks & Markets

Souks, traditional Moroccan markets, weave through the medina in bustling alleyways of shops and vendors. They’re a wonderful place to experience Moroccan culture! They brim with vibrant colors, fragrant scents and lively sounds of haggling customers. Stalls overflow with aromatic goods like spices, teas and perfumes while others showcase artisan crafts like Berber carpets, brass lamps and leather goods. 

Souk Semmarine.  A sprawling souk and the largest in Marrakech. Its vibrant tapestry of Moroccan goods draws multitudes of visitors. Shopkeepers swing open large wooden doors to reveal dazzling displays. Berber vendors sell patterned rugs, colorful poufs and fuzzy pillows alongside linen scarves, leather goods and vivid paintings. Hammered brass lamps shimmer alongside copper tea pots, inlaid wooden boxes, clay tagines and ceramics. Bins overflow with herbal teas, spices, dates, snack mixes and pastries. Alleys of vendors branch off from this bustling souk while its main passageway leads visitors to the famed Jemaa el-Fnaa Square.

Places des Epices.  A bustling plaza lined with merchants selling pyramids of ground spices, jars of herbs, dried flowers, teas and perfumes. Shopkeepers invite customers to taste and smell samples of their products then haggle over price. Souk vendors fill the center of the plaza with Moroccan rugs, stacked poufs, wicker baskets and colorful decor. Cafes serving Berber tea and spiced coffee surround the plaza offering rooftop and street side seating. 

Souk des Tapis.  A large market showcasing Moroccan and Berber carpets. Stacks of folded rugs rise from floor to ceiling of showrooms while large pieces are displayed on walls. Each rug is unique, ranging from traditional to modern weaves and vintage designs. Vendors guide visitors through their shop and nearby warehouses, offering mint tea as they unfurl multiple rugs. After viewing a dozen designs, it’s time to narrow choices and haggle or thank the vendor and leave. 

Roadside Markets.  Locals buy groceries from small roadside markets and stands. Baskets brim with fresh vegetables, fruits, herbs and eggs. Butchers display meat on hooks or tabletops. Drums hold pickled olives, flours and grains like lentils, couscous and beans. Prices are refreshingly fair; no haggling required. Small convenience stores called Hanouts, are best for dairy, beverages and everyday essentials 

Tips for Haggling:

• Engage with locals. Most are genuinely friendly. 

• Haggling is expected and part of the culture. 

• Prices start high. Never accept the first price. 

• Offer one quarter of the asking price and aim to pay no more than half.

• Be ready to walk away after your “last final” offer; vendors often reconsider.

• Walk away if not interested or uncomfortable. 

• Only haggle if you’re serious about purchasing. 

See the Sights 

Madrasa Ben Youssef.  A 14th century Islamic school famed for its sophisticated design and intricate details. Its central courtyard is one of the finest examples of Moroccan architectural style. Kaleidoscopic tiles, chiseled plaster and carved wooden elements define the space. Zellige patterns and Quranic text adorn its many surfaces. White marble floors surround a tiled reflecting pool. Arched windows lookout from the second floor where dozens of private study rooms line hallways and interior light wells.

Pro Tip.  Arrive at opening to see the courtyard with the fewest visitors.

Almoravid Koubba.  A 12th century mosque and the oldest surviving structure in the medina. A small domed tower stands within an excavated pit surrounded by stone ruins. It’s off-limits to non-Muslims but viewable from beyond a gated perimeter. 

Koutoubia Mosque.  A historic mosque with the tallest minaret in the medina. The existing building and surrounding ruins date back to the 12th century. Its sandstone and tan brick facade feature Moorish arches and minimal ornamentation distinctive of the period. The mosque is off limits to non-Muslims but viewable from the outside. A large park with lush palm gardens, shaded walkways, fountains and benches encompass it. 

Marrakech Museum.  A former palace converted into a Moroccan art and history museum. Small galleries house historic artifacts including clothing, pottery, jewelry and furniture. Contemporary artwork and photographs depict Marrakech, the Atlas Mountains and the local people. Through its interiors, visitors can admire the former palace’s architectural features and intricate designs.

Bahia Palace.  A 19th century palace renowned for its stylized rooms, expansive courtyards and elaborate craftsmanship. It’s regarded as one of the best examples of Moroccan architecture. Its interior halls and chambers are decorated with intricately carved woodwork and plaster designs. Brass chandeliers hang from meticulously painted ceilings. Finely tiled surfaced cover columns, fireplaces and floors. The palace was heavy damaged by the earthquake but remains open during restoration. 

Badi Palace.  A 16th century palace characterized by its crumbling ruins, stone walls and vast courtyard. Underground tunnels lead to exposed ruins of guest quarters. Pitted sandstone walls with Arabesque arches surround the courtyard. Emptied pools reveal mosaic tiled floors while citrus trees grow from gardens in its four quadrants. Galleries display photographs of old Marrakech and artifacts discovered during the palace’s excavation, including tools, pottery, coins and scrolls. 

Saadian Tombs.  A mausoleum containing the tombs of a former sultan and many of his family members. The tombs are treasured for their Moorish design, white marble chambers, Zellij tile work and delicate plaster details. They were heavily damaged during the 2023 earthquake and closed for viewing. Their Moorish exterior and the adjacent mosque are still while undergoing restoration.

Walls of Marrakech.  The medina is surrounded by a series of protective walls and arched gates that allow movement in and out of the old city. It spans nearly 22km with sections reaching over 10 meters high. 

• Bab el Raha. A pristine section of wall is marked by one of the medina’s most imposing entrances, where twin octagonal towers flank an arched stone gate. 

• Bab Agnaou.  A 12th century archway featuring an ornately carved grey stone facade. It was used as the main entrance to the Badi Palace within the medina. 

Le Jardin Majorelle.  A famed botanical garden featuring a collection of cacti and dry palms from around the world. Red painted pathways lead through the garden past small reflecting pools and lily ponds to a historic blue villa. The richly painted house is accented with Moroccan designs and houses a Berber craft museum. Its galleries are curated with artifacts from tribes across the Atlas Mountains including jewelry, clothing, pottery, tools and weapons. No photos are allowed inside. 

Pro Tip.  Reserve 9am tickets a couple weeks in advance to avoid the crowds. 

Jemaa El-Fnaa Square.  A vast plaza known for its street performers, food stalls and rooftop terraces. Its energy shifts dramatically from day to night. Juice carts, henna artists and ethically questionable street performers with live animals buzz about the square by day. As evening falls, the spectacle gives way to rows of food stands serving grilled kebabs and sizzling tagines. Hype men lure diners though most stalls offer identical dishes at similar prices. Negotiate for a free appetizer and confirm the final cost before ordering.

Places to Eat & Drink

Restaurant Dardar.  A rooftop eatery with panoramic views of the medina and its tan buildings. It has a hidden feel to it, nestled within a souk and only reachable by a dark-green tiled staircase. Come here for Moroccan wines and traditional dishes. 

Zouhal Food.  A street side restaurant in the medina offering vegetarian versions of traditional Moroccan dishes like tagines, pastilla and couscous. The flavors are savory, the prices are affordable and the service is excellent. 

Cafe Arabe.  A shaded rooftop terrace with a full bar. Come here to escape the mid-afternoon sun, sip on refreshing cocktails and enjoy picturesque views of Marrakech.

Le Jardin.  A garden restaurant nestled within a lush courtyard. They serve a variety of contemporary Mediterranean and Moroccan dishes and cold pressed juices. 

Cafe des Epices.  A large cafe in the Places des Epices brewing spiced coffees and mint teas. Their ground floor patio spills into the plaza while their rooftop overlooks the chaotic souk below. 

Sweet & Sook.  A frozen sweets shop with Moroccan flavors of sorbet and ice cream. We visited twice, trying a scoop of everything on the menu! The orange cinnamon sorbet and the chebakia ice cream made with orange blossom, almond, honey, cinnamon and sesame were our favorites. 

Khobs Bakery.  A bakery specializing in the Moroccan bread, khobs. A baker invited us to watch as the team worked the dough, leavened the bread, loaded the oven and stacked bakes into baskets for delivery. Not officially named, use this Map Pin to find it. 

Moroccan Cuisine 

Tagine.  A mixture of vegetables, meats, dried fruits and spices stewed together in a conical clay dish. It’s a staple dishes of Moroccan cuisine.

Couscous.  A steamed grain covered in a savory broth and garnished with vegetables and meats.

Harira.  A Moroccan soup made from tomatoes, chickpeas, fresh herb and aromatic spices. It’s typically vegetarian. 

Khobs Bread.  A light and airy flatbread served with every meal. It’s fresh baked daily and can be bought from for 1 DH from local bakeries. 

Msemmen.  A flaky and layered pan fried flat bread often eaten at breakfast with honey. It’s commonly cooked by street vendors on flat top griddles. 

Sfenj (Moroccan Donuts).  Yeasty rings of fried dough heavily coated in plain sugar. They’re a common street food snack and usually paired with a tiny cup of coffee. 

Mint Tea.  Hot tea made with fresh mint leaves and sugar cubes. It’s served as a common welcome drink.

Fresh Squeezed Juice.  Juices are commonly drank across Morocco. Try fresh squeed orange, pomegranate or sugar cane from a street side juice cart. 

Moroccan Orange Soda.  Orange is one of the most popular flavors in Morocco. Try a Moroccan orange soda like Orangina or Hawai.

Stay in a Riad

Riads are traditional Moroccan hotels built around a central courtyard. They offer tranquil places to stay within the heart of the chaotic Medina. 

Riad Merstane.  Tucked away at the end of a winding alley, the riad is a peaceful retreat just steps from the nearby souks and sights of the medina. Comfortable rooms open up to a sunlit courtyard filled with lush greenery. Moroccan decor and artwork add style and authenticity to the space. A second floor living room and spacious rooftop offer places to relax and unwind. A well equipped kitchen provides the chance to prepare Moroccan meals while each morning begins with a generous breakfast spread. Reserve on Booking.

Getting Around 

On Foot.  Marrakech and its medina are best explored on foot. The maze of winding streets and narrow alleyways offers a true glimpse into the history of the city. Expect to get lost, turned around and come to dead ends. Navigating gets easier after the first day.  

Good to Know.  Ignore people trying to offer directions. They may ask where you’re going, tell you a road or place is closed, try leading you into a shop or ask for a tip.

Airport Taxi.  Taxis between the medina and airport cost around 100dh. Most riads can arrange for one, otherwise hail one on the street or near a gate to the medina. Always confirm price and destination before getting in.

Arabic Words & Phrases 

Knowing a few worlds and phases in Arabic goes a long way in Moroccan when interacting with locals. Some of the most common and easy to remember are: 

• Hello = Salama

• Goodbye = Beslama

• Thank you = Shukran

• You’re welcome = Marhaba 

Location Specifics

When to Visit.  September is the best month of the year to visit Morocco. It’s just before peak travel season with hot to moderate temperatures. 

Language.  Arabic, French and English are commonly spoken by many people, seen on signage and menus. 

Cash vs Card.  Cash is preferred and often only accepted method of payment at many businesses. Confirm before ordering at restaurants or agreeing to services.

Safety.  Marrakech’s medina is a generally safe destination to visit. Be aware of your surrounding and keep hold of personal belonging to avoid pick pocketing. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption or cooking with in Morocco. Only use bottled water. 

Alcohol.  The sale of alcohol is heavily controlled throughout the country. Only some restaurants will serve cocktails, beer and wine. 

Earthquake Damage.  Marrakech is still recovering from the devastating 2023 earthquake. Several historic sights remain closed or partially opened as renovation continue. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Moroccan laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Elsewhere in Morocco

We spent a little over three weeks traveling across Morocco, experiencing so much of the country’s culture, cuisine and history. Drive across the Atlas Mountains to the Sahara Desert, making stops at palm oases and crumbing Kasbahs on a Moroccan Roadtrip. Explore the ancient medina and historic Islamic sights of Fes. Wander the azure streets and hillside of Chefchaouen, The Blue City. Enjoy the coastal atmosphere and influences of in Casablanca.

For Next Time…

Morocco is a beautiful destination with historic cities, scenic landscapes and cultural allure. We have a shortlist of places to visit when we return. 

Meknes.  An ancient city at the heart of Morocco’s wine producing region. Its nearby vineyards offer tours, tastings and wine pairings. 

Volubilis.  An ancient Roman city with well preserved ruins and mosaics from the former empire. 

Essaouira.  A port city on the Atlantic with a picturesque medina, coastal ramparts and fresh seafood restaurants.

Madagascar

Madagascar

Madagascar is a vast island nation famed for its exotic biodiversity and stunning landscapes. Baobab trees tower across the horizon. Endangered lemurs leap through dense forests. Colorful chameleons lurk in the jungle. Jagged rock formations carve through the landscape. Orange sunsets make way to starry night skies. Back roads lead past remote villages. Restaurants serve Malagasy cuisine and locally infused rums. Wooden ships and outrigger canoes take sail from costal towns. Calms waves lap onshore white sand beaches and desert islands. Whales migrate in the deep coastal waters. Madagascar is truly an under the radar destination full of wonders. We spent 10 days exploring the country and experiencing its vast beauty.  

Morondava

Morondava is a tropical fishing town on the western coast of Madagascar. It’s a hub for the natural wonders like The Avenue of the Baobabs, Kirindy Forest and Tsingy National Park. 

Nosy Kely.  A seaside neighborhood in Morondava located between the town’s beach and mangrove forest. It has a tropical and authentic Malagasy atmosphere, accommodating both residents and visitors. Palm trees sway above thatched wooden homes and locally operated hotels. Restaurants and roadside kiosks serve freshly caught seafood and Malagasy dishes. 

Route Nationale 35.  Morondava’s main road and the start of one of the country’s central highways. It’s bustling with people, rickshaws and tuk tuks. Roadside shops sell fresh produce, live ducks, French baguettes and miscellaneous items ranging from clothes to solar panels. It’s a convenient location for travel necessities. There are several banks with ATMs, grocery stores and pharmacies. 

Morondava Beach.  A vast sandy beach spanning Morondava’s shoreline. Locals and travelers come here to swim, picnic and sunbathe. Fisherman catch live seafood. Large sailing ships ferry goods along Madagascar’s western coast. Nightly sunsets bathe the shoreline in golden hues. We were even lucky enough to see the green flash! 

Outrigger Canoeing 

Outrigger canoes are one of the main methods of transportation along Morondava’s coast. We joined a pair of fishermen at sea on two days of our trip. We accompanied them while fishing, went whale watching, visited a remote desert island and explored the ship building village of Belo sur Mer. Book with Eto Morondava. 

Deep Water Fishing.  Fishing makes up a large part of the local economy in Morondava. Colorful outrigger canoes and wooden ships line the shores and mangrove channels. We joined two fishermen on their outrigger for a morning voyage deep into the Mozambique Channel. Far off shore, the coastline of Madagascar was no longer visible. The vast blue of the ocean spanned across the horizon in all directions. The fishermen dragged two lines behind the boat, hoping to hook a barracuda, shark or tuna. After hours battling strong winds and fighting fish, they hooked and pulled an amberjack from the sea.

Whale Watching.  Humpback Whales migrate along the coast of Madagascar in the Mozambique Channel separating the island nation from mainland Africa. Jets of mist appeared on the horizon as a pod of humpback whales migrated through the waters. The pod surfaced every few minutes, exposing their iconic hump backs and giant finned tails. Even from a distance, their grand size dwarfed our captain’s outrigger canoe. Before disappearing into the depths, one whale continually slapped its fins against the surface of the water, as if waving us goodbye. Peak migration happens between July and September.

Belo sur Mer Village.  Belo sur Mer is a remote coastal village renowned for its hand built wooden ships. The village’s beach is lined with dozens of ship yards, colorfully painted vessels, dugout canoes and outrigger boats. Many of the traditional ships range in level of progress. Skeleton frames and partially planked sides stand onshore. Men chisel wooden pieces, hammer nails into boards and seal seams. Completed ships float offshore in the village’s natural harbor. Sandy streets and pathways meander further inland. Stickbuilt enclosures surround traditional houses made from wooden walls and thatched roofs. It’s a beautiful and remote destination with unique traditions. 

Belo sur Mer Voyage.  Belo sur Mer is located 100km south of Morondava. The voyage between takes between 3-4 hours, offering scenic glimpses into the coastal landscape and remote villages. Untouched forests, white sand beaches, steep dunes and sheer rocks cliffs cover the coast. Small villages with thatched huts, beached dug out canoes and local people line pockets of the shoreline. Fishing vessels with rectangular sails billow across the sea like sheets in the wind. 

Nosy Andrahavo.  Nosy Andrahavo is a lonely desert island in the deep blue ocean. It appears as a yellow sand dune rising from the sea, surrounded by the most vibrant shades of turquoise, aquamarine and blue. Bleached corals and shells decorate the shores. It’s possibly to walk the circumference of the island in half an hour. There is no natural shade on the island though the cool waters offer a refreshing escape. The crew prepared us a Malagasy meal on the beach, Trondro Gasy, a dish made from stewed fish with a tomato base, bell peppers and onions. 

Avenue of the Baobabs 

The Avenue of the Baobabs is one of Madagascar’s most iconic sights. Dozens of towering baobab trees flank both sides of a dirt road, creating a dramatic and picturesque landscape. Baobab trees are recognizable by their massive trunks, smooth bark and uniquely shaped canopy of branching limbs. We visited for the sunrise and sunset, getting to experience the avenue in all its grandeur. Book with Eto Morondava. 

Sunrise at The Avenue of the Baobabs.  The sunrise is a tranquil time to experience the Avenue of the Baobabs. The starry night sky quickly brightens with colors of purple, orange and yellow. The silhouettes of the baobabs take on more definition as daylight breaks. 

Sunset at The Avenue of the Baobabs.  The sunset is the most popular time of day to visit the Avenue of the Baobabs. Arrive in the late afternoon to experience the baobabs in full daylight. Watch as the setting sun illuminates them in a golden glow. Their silhouettes provide a dramatic contrast against the orange sky. We visited twice on our returns from Kirindy and Tsingy. 

Pro Tip.  The best view is across a pond looking west towards the avenue and the sunset. 

Famous Baobabs 

Baobabs in Love.  The Baobabs in Love are two baobabs trees growing around each other in a loving embrace. The phenomenon uncommon making the two trees a beloved landmark.

The Sacred Baobab.  The Sacred Baobab is a massive baobab tree sacred to the local people. Villagers come here to pray beneath it for rain, good harvest and pregnant cattle. The shrine surrounding the tree must be entered barefoot, connecting one’s self to nature. 

Forest of the Baobabs.  A vast area with thousands of densely clustered baobabs covering the landscape in between farmland. It’s an impressive sight to witness, located over an hour past the Avenue of the Baobabs on the route to Tsingy National Park. 

Baobab Vendors.  Local roadside vendors operate kiosks nearby most of the iconic baobab sights. They sell statuettes of carved wooden baobabs, baobab fruits, baobab honey and snacks. We sipped on coffee with Mofo Gasy, a Malagasy pancake made from rice flour.

Good to Know.  The baobabs loose their leaves during the dry season, exposing their nebulous limbs. The dry season happens between May and October. 

Kirindy Forest

Kirindy Forest is a protected nature reserve home to wild lemurs, exotic birds and snails. Trails lead through dense thicket of small trees with the occasional baobab towering above the surrounding forest. Book with Eto Morondava. 

Lemur Tracking.  Led by a guide, we tracked two groups of brown lemurs and one group of white lemurs. The brown lemurs nibbled on fruits in the tree top canopy while others foraged along the forest floor. Some were very curious, approaching close enough to see their amber eyes and long fuzzy tails in detail. The group of white lemurs stayed higher in the trees. They leapt great distances, springing quickly from tree to tree. One perched on a branch as its baby held closely onto its chest. 

Pro Tip.  Visit during the dry season when the forest is mostly bare for the best change of spotting lemurs. 

Good to Know.  It’s strictly forbidden to feed lemurs in order to prevent dependencies on humans. Guides however leave water in snail shells for them to drink from. 

Getting Here.  The route to Kirindy Forest is a bumpy adventure down a pitted dirt road.  It’s located an hour beyond the Avenue of the Baobabs and only reachable by 4x4. 

Places to Eat & Drink in Morondava

Le Corail.  A Malagasy restaurant with freshly caught seafood. We visited for our first lunch, sharing a spread of dishes including coconut shrimp, crab croquettes and squid skewers while sipping in Rhum au Coco and Ti Punch.

Bleu Soleil.  A beachfront restaurant with a chalk board menu featuring a list of “plats des jour” and the daily catch. We ordered the coconut stewed octopus and grilled tuna steaks bathed in a savory seafood broth. 

Bleu Soleil Glace.  An ice cream shop attached to the Bleu Soleil Restaurant. They serve freshly made soft serve ice cream using local fruits and flavors like Madagascar vanilla, coconut, baobab, chocolate and coffee. 

L'Etoile.  A bar with house infused Malagasy rums. A spectrum of bottles are displayed on a shelf behind the bar, each with a different rum infusion. We each sampled and sipped on several rums infused the vanilla, cola, herbs, coffee, dates, anise, baobab, coconut and cocoa. At night, a live band plays Malagasy music. 

Hotely Gasy.  A popular street food kitchen with Malagasy dishes displayed in a glass cases. We ordered a whole fish, boiled cassava, cucumber salad and fry breads. It’s a very affordable way to taste the local cuisine. 

Casa Marina Restaurant.  A hotel restaurant on Morondava Beach with free sun lounges and thatched umbrellas for customers and guests. We ordered cocktails from the bar and laid out for the afternoon. 

Law Milka Boulangerie Patisserie.  A locally famous bakery with French style pastries, classic baguettes and cakes. We ordered an eclair, pan au chocolate, custard raisin roll. 

Where to Stay in Morondava 

Kily House.  A boutique hotel in Nosy Kely with spacious and well designed rooms with outdoor patios. The hotel is located nearby several Malagasy restaurants and the town’s main beach. They offer coffee and breakfast, arrange tours and transfers. Reserve on Booking.

Good to Know.  There are scheduled nightly power outages between 6-10pm each night. Most businesses and hotels have generators to compensate. 

Tsingy National Park 

Tsingy National Park is a stone forest with a labyrinth of jagged and cathedral-like limestone formations. A series of walkways, suspension bridges and ladders weave through the park’s two sections, Grand Tsingy and Petite Tsingy. Book with Eto Morondava. 

Grand Tsingy 

Grand Tsingy is the largest and most impressive section of Tsingy National Park. The best way to experience it is on the Andamozayaky Trail. It leads through the rock forest and cathedral to reach The Tsingy. 

The Rock Forest.  The Rock Forest is a tree covered area with craggily rock formations. Ladders lead through steep crevices and over large boulders. Tree roots and vines are frequently used for support and balance. It’s a habitat for primates like the Sportive Lemur. Fossils of Jurassic period corals are visible in the bleached limestone. A shallow cave leads through the final section of The Rock Forest into the beginning of The Cathedral. 

The Cathedral.  The Cathedral is an area with vertical sections and towering stone walls that open to sky above. The trails are technical and more challenging than in The Rock Forest. The routes leads through caves, between narrow openings, up mounted stone steps and over abysses on wooden platforms. We attached our harnesses to cables for safety along jagged crevices and on steep ladders to reach The Tsingy.

The Tsingy.  The Tsingy is the most dramatic area of the national park. Thousands of eroded limestone formations point upwards like Gothic style spires. Cantilevered sections appear to be floating. Lookout platforms offer panoramic views of the sharp and jagged landscape. A suspension bridge crosses a steep ravine separating both viewpoints. 

Petite Tsingy 

Petite Tsingy, as its name implies is a smaller version of Grand Tsingy. It’s located along the banks of the Manambolo River in Bekopaka. A lush trail meanders into the jagged rock forest and labyrinth of crevices through a Gothic arched tunnel. The series of crevices slice through the jungle, some barely wide enough to shimmy through. Vines and roots drape down their rock walls. Flooded channels remain from the wet season. The trail ascends to an observation deck with views of the jagged limestone spires and surrounding forest. 

Getting to Tsingy National Park

Getting to Tsingy National Park from Morondava is part of the adventure. It takes a full day to reach in a hired 4x4 vehicle. The route is only accessible during the dry season between June and November. It leads along unmarked back roads, across rivers on barges, past rural villages and through baobab forests. It includes stops at Belo Tsiribihina for lunch and a multi night stay in the village of Bekopaka.

Good to Know: 

• Book a guided tour with transportation to Tsingy in advance. 

• A local guide is required to enter the national park. They can be hired from the Tsingy National Park office in Bekopaka.

• Visit before 7am. The sun and the heat can be overwhelming by mid morning. 

• Tsingy is pronounced “chingy” 

Lunch in Belo Tsiribihina

Belo Tsiribihina is a large town along the Mania River. It’s the halfway point between Morondava and Tsingy National Park making it a frequent lunch stop.

Karibo Restaurant.  A hotel restaurant with a chalkboard menu of daily dishes. We ordered a shrimp cocktail and tomato salad while on our way to Tsingy. 

Mad Zebu.  A very popular restaurant with Malagasy and Italian fusion dishes. We ordered two vegetarian plates to share, the tomato sweet potato gnocchi and red bean and coconut veloute with black rice arancini.  

Bekopaka Village 

Bekopaka is a remote village along the Manambolo River outside Tsingy National Park. It’s serves as an entry point to the park and as a location to stay with various hotels and campgrounds 

Where to Stay in Bekopaka

Tanankoay.  An eco hotel and campground with a range of thatched cabins and campsites in Bekopaka near Tsingy National Park. We slept in a cozy A frame style cabin. The hotel has a small restaurant with a range of Malagasy and French dishes. Try the ratatouille, spiced rice and Kabaro au Curry, a local dish made from coconut curry stewed beans. 

Bekopaka Night Walk 

Madagascar’s forests come to life with nocturnal animals as night falls across the landscape. Led by a guide from the Bekopaka Village, we explored the forested trails behind the Tsingy National Park office. 

Nocturnal Animals.  We immediately began spotting green and brown chameleons resting on tree branches and camouflaging themselves behind leaves. Their remarkable appearance is emphasized by their color changing skin, coiled tails and swiveling eyes. A pair of tiny mouse lemurs played in the dense thicket. One inspected us from a branch above our heads. Its big eyes and little body make it one of natures most adorable creatures. A beautifully patterned tree boa slithered up the trunk of a tree looking for its next meal. A small frog glistened on the dry leaves of the forest floor. 

Good to Know.  Visit the Tsingy National Park office in Bekopaka to hire a guide. The night walk lasts an hour and costs less than $10 USD per person.

Manambolo River Gorge 

The Manambolo River Gorge is a limestone canyon carved by the Manambolo River near Tsingy National Park. Villagers from Bekopaka navigate its waters on wooden dugout canoes as a means of fishing, transporting goods and tourism. 

Dugout Canoeing.  A local boatsman paddled us upstream on a wooden dugout canoe in the early morning. The sun rose above a bend in the river canyon, Illuminating the picturesque landscape. The chocolaty brown waters paint the limestone cliffs in warm shades of orange and brown. Erosion carves small caves and crevices into the canyon walls. We walked through a rippled cave entrance and into its dark inner chamber. Our lights revealed crystalline stalactites, jagged rock formations and tree roots from the forest above.

Good to Know.  Like Tsingy National Park, the Manambolo River Gorge is only accessible during the dry season between June and November. 

Rural Madagascar

The rural landscape of Madagascar is defined by its remote villages, vast farmland and towering baobab trees. Pitted dirt roads lead across many parts of the country. Baobab trees grow from between crops and rice paddies. Small villages are comprised of straw, wooden and adobe huts. Women wear vibrant patterned outfits and mud masks as a sign of beauty and for sun protection. Men heard groups of goats and drive carts led by Zebu, the local cattle. Children wave and shout out bonjour and salama from roadsides. 

Andasibe

Andasibe is a rural town nestled in the forested hills of Eastern Madagascar. It’s an entry point to multiple nature reserves and national parks including the Mitsinjo Reserve, Analamazoatra Reserve and Mantadia National Park. The town is home to several eco-hotels, roadside restaurants and farm stands.

Mitsinjo Reserve

Mitsinjo is protected forest reserve in Andasibe home to many species of wild lemurs and colorful chameleons. Guides offer nature walks and nocturnal visits through the forest’s dense trails in search of these remarkable animals. Tickets can be purchased and guides can be hired at the Mitsinjo Park Office. 

The Grand Circuit (Vahimantsina Circuit).  The Grand Circuit is one of four trails leading through the Mitsinjo Reserve. It allows plenty of opportunities to spot lemurs and chameleons, taking between 3-4 hours to complete. 

Indri Lemur.  The Indri are known for their haunting calls and adorable appearance. Though critically endangered, they’re frequently seen and heard within the reserve. Our guide tracked two separate families. One group sat in the trees, chomping on leaves and testing them for softness with their tongues. Their furry black torsos and white limbs hugged the trees. Their jet black faces and greenish eyes occasionally stared down at us. We watched and listened to a second group call out. Tilting their heads back, their piercing song echoed throughout the forest. 

Diademed Sifaka Lemur.  The Diademed Sifaka is a critically endangered species of lemur native to the forest reserve. We trudged off trail to track a small family feeding on leaves in the verdant canopy. They gracefully leapt from tree to tree, looking around before contributing their meal. The sunlight illuminated their tricolored golden, white and grey fur.

Parsons Chameleon.  Chameleons are a common sight in the park, though rarer to see during the daytime. We spotted an adult Parson’s Chameleon resting on a tree limb. Its vibrant green scales and brown patches blended in with its surroundings. Its long tail coiled up as it slowly walked while its independent eyes looked back at us.

Mitsinjo Night Walk.  The Mitsinjo Reserve Night Walk is one of the best ways to see all types of nocturnal creatures. Our guide led us through the dark jungle trail and along the roadside, pointing out numerous species of chameleon. We saw a sleeping baby Parsons Chameleon, a Brown Leaf Chameleon and a Nose Horn Chameleon, the smallest species of chameleon. Mouse Lemurs ran across and mated on tree branches. Tree frogs sat on leaves. Spiders lurked in webs, a praying mantis hunted for prey and a large moth displayed into open wings.

Mantadia National Park

Mantadia National Park is a vast area of primary rainforest with tropical vegetation and remote hiking trails. Multiple circuits lead through the park, offering opportunities to enjoy the untouched nature and watch for its illusive lemurs. 

Visiting Mantadia National Park. The Mantadia National Park Office is located 100m down the road from the Mitsinjo Reserve. Circuits within the park are located 2 hours further by car. The muddy road in between is only accessible with a 4x4 vehicle and driver. Visit the park office a day in advance or at 7am day of to book transportation, buy tickets and hire a guide. Round trip transportation can be arranged for around $60 USD. The park office also offers guided tours of the Analamazoatra Reserve, a popular spot to listen for and spot Indri Lemurs.

Tsakoka Circuit.  A three hour trail through the Mantadia National Park. It’s regarded by local guides as the best circuit to see varying species of the park’s difficult to spot lemurs. The muddy trail leads through the lush forest past moss covered and lichen spotted tree trunks. Twisting vines and aerial roots hanging from dense canopy. Large ferns and giant plants grown from the forest floor. The songs of Indri Lemurs echo through the forest while the growls and grunts of Black and White Ruffed Lemurs reverberate in the distance.

Black and White Ruffed Lemur.  The park is a habitat for the critically endangered Black and White Ruffed Lemur. They’re recognizable by their fluffy black and white appearance, large size and distinctive call. It took two hours to track them by their calls. Three ate fruits and hopped between branches in the high tree top canopy. 

General Park Information 

There is not much info on any of the park websites about Mitsinjo Reserve or Mantadia National Parkregarding basic information like opening hours, ticket prices or hiring guides. Below is some helpful advice based on our experience. 

• Opening Hours.  The parks are open daily between 7am-4pm. Arrive before 8am when the lemurs are most active. Stay close by the park offices for easier access.

• Prices.  Ticket prices vary depending on the circuits chosen and their length. Expect to pay 35K to 120K Ariary per circuit. There is a daily 5K Ariary Community Development Tax. Tickets can only be purchases with cash. 

• Guides.  Guides are required when visiting the parks and reserves. They can be hired at the park ticket offices. 

• Tipping.  Plan to tip drivers and guides 10% - 20% of the circuit price.

• Gear & Attire.  The park trails are often muddy, even during the dry season. Wear boots or sturdy shoes and bring a hiking pole for extra support. The temperature is cooler in the mornings and evening. Wear light removable layers while hiking. Bring a flashlight for night walks. 

Getting to Andasibe.  Andasibe is located between 3-4 hours from Antananarivo by car. Most hotels offer round trip transportation. There are also taxi stands and drivers available at the airport. Prices are very expensive regardless of the option you choose, often costing around $120 USD one way. 

Where to Stay in Andasibe

Soanala Hotel Andasibe. An eco-hotel with several A frame style bungalows built into the forested hillside of Andasibe. Its walking distance from the park entrances of the Mitsinjo Reserve, Analamazoatra Reserve and Mantadia National Park. Their restaurant offers complementary breakfast and well priced meals. Transportation to and from the airport in Antananarivo can be arranged for an additional fee. Reserve on Booking. 

Location Specifics

Language.  Malagasy and French are the two most widely spoken languages in Madagascar. English is very rarely spoken however several school children would often stop us to practice conversing. 

Cash vs Card.  Cash is king in Madagascar! The country runs on a cash based economy using the local currency, Ariary. Exchange USD or Euros at the airport or banks in town. ATMs are frequently out of cash and unreliable. Carry small bills for payments and tips. 

Local Excursions.  After booking an accommodation, most concierge will offer a suite of tours and excursions to book through them. 

For Next Time…

Madagascar is a remarkable country and one we would love to revisit! On our next trip here, we plan to stay in Belo sur Mer to experience of its local culture in depth and explore the dry tropical forest of Kirindy Mitea National Park. In Morondava, we’d spend a day touring the tidal Mangrove Forests. On the country’s east coast, we’d relax on the tropical island of Nosy Be. While in the region, we would visit other Indian Ocean Island Nations like Comoros, Mayotte, Reunion or Mauritius. 

The Seychelles

The Seychelles

The Seychelles is remote island nation and tropical getaway in the Indian Ocean. The archipelago is famed for its powdery white sand beaches, orange granite boulders, vibrant turquoise waters, lush landscapes and scenic hiking trails. We spent a little over a week, island hopping and beach bumming between the Inner Islands of Mahe, Praslin and La Digue. 

Mahe 

Mahe is a seahorse shaped island with lush jungleous mountains, massive granite boulders, white sand beaches and turquoise waters. It’s the Seychelles largest and most populous island, hosting the capital city, Victoria, and international airport. It’s the perfect entry point to the tropical paradise!

Mahe Beaches 

Anse Royale Beach.  A crescent shaped tan sand beach with a lengthy shoreline, aquamarine waters and a swimmable bay. Photogenic granite boulders flank the north side of the beach. Pockets of palms offer a respite from the radiant sun. An offshore reef protects the bay from strong waves. A gentle current flows from north to south along shore. Drift snorkel over fields of seagrass home to tropical fish, urchins, eels and sea cucumbers. 

Pro Tip.  If driving here, there is a free parking lot with about 30 spaces. Arrive by 9am to get a spot. 

Beau Vallon Beach.  A crescent shaped white sand beach with calm swimmable waters. It’s Mahe’s largest beach, stretching kilometers along the northwest coast. Come here to enjoy long walks on the beach, watch nightly sunsets and spot fruit bats fluttering between trees. Resorts and restaurants provide places to stay, eat and drink. Tour operators advertise boat trips to nearby islands and beaches. 

Mahe Sights 

Takamaka Rum Distillery.  Takamaka is the Seychelles only rum distillery and the archipelago’s most popular rum brand. They distill a series of rums from molasses and sugarcane including light, dark, aged, overproof and flavors infused with coconut and pineapple. The smell of molasses wafts around the property. Free tours are provided three times daily; no is reservation required. Tours last about an hour and offer glimpses inside the distillery, master blender’s workshop and museum. Finish the tour with a tasting of 8 different rum or with a cocktail at the bar. Mixologists stir and shake a range of rum cocktails. Try the Taka Dream and ZenZann. Order a shareable bites like croquettes, samosas or falafel from their food stand. 

Jardin du Roi Spice.  A historic garden with spices, medicinal plants, tropical fruit trees and endemic palms cultivated by the French colonizers of the Seychelles. Spend an hour walking through the trails, identifying trees and plants on a self guided tour using their map. Visit the tortoise pen with Giant Aldabra tortoises. Their restaurant offers scoops of homemade ice cream with flavors including nutmeg, vanilla, coconut and cinnamon.  

National Botanical Garden.  A lush and colorful botanical garden in Victoria featuring tropical plants, fragrant flowers, spice gardens, towering palms and giant Aldabra Tortoises. The scent of the Cannonball Tree flowers and plumerias wafts through the garden. The world’s largest coconut, the Coco de Mer, hangs from its palm trees. A pen houses dozens of Aldabra Tortoises, the world’s second largest species. Enter the pen to hand feed them greens as they slowly surround you.

Seychelles National Museum of History.  A history museum dedicated to the island’s discovery, settlement, colonial past, independence, ties to piracy, slavery and the spice trade. Its exhibits feature artifacts like treasures from sunken ships, antique maps, cannons and iron shackles. Cultural displays share stories of the island’s folklore, music and traditional homes. The museum occupies a French Creole style building that once served as bank, treasury, courthouse, telegraph office and governor’s office.

Copolia Trail.  A 1.4km trail leading through the dense jungle to a granite plateau with a panoramic views of the Mahe. The verdant and rugged trail ascends over exposed tree roots, past moss covered granite boulders and beneath Seychelles palms. The trail ends at a small ladder leading up to the exposed granite plateau. The clearing offering views of the island, its jungleous mountains and the urban center of Victoria. There’s even a patch of carnivorous pitcher plants. The trail is moderate hike, taking about an hour to reach the summit.

Good to Know.  Free parking is available along the roadside just before the ticket office. The trail opens at 8am for 100 SCR per person. 

Places to Eat & Drink on Mahe

Ocean Beach Restaurant.  An affordable takeaway near Beau Vallon Beach with flavorful curries, salads, noodles and rice dishes. Come here for the smoked fish salad and fish curry. 

Trader Vic’s.  A famed tiki bar and restaurant with locations in tropical destinations around the world. We stopped by for an original Mai Tai and a couple rum cocktails. 

Cafe 74.  A cafe with pastries, fruit bowls and different types of croque monsieur. Order an iced coffee and a spread of pastries for a picnic breakfast at Anse Royal. 

Where to Stay on Mahe

Maison Hibiscus Self Catering.  A cute apartment complex with fully equipped studios for rent. It’s an affordable option nearby Beau Vallon Beach on Mahe. We booked on Airbnb. 

Getting Around Mahe

Rental Car.  The best way to get around Mahe when short on time is by car. Doffay Car Rentalis an extremely well reviewed and affordable rental car agency. They offer pick up from the airport and drop off at locations across the island, including the ferry jetty. 

Victoria Car Park.  A parking lot in the city center of Victoria. The first hour is free. A 1 hour or half day parking pass is needed for any additional time. The pass can be purchased from Antigone Bookstore down the street for a 5 to 15 rupees (less than $1 USD) 

Praslin

Praslin is the postcard picture of a tropical paradise. The island is the second largest in the Seychelles, famed for its idyllic beaches, tropical forests and oceanfront resorts. 

Praslin Beaches 

Anse Lazio.  A stunning white sand beach with some of the most vibrant shades of turquoise and blue in the Indian Ocean. Large orange granite boulders flank both ends, offering quintessential views of the Seychellois shoreline. Catamarans and yachts are anchored off shore. Passing showers make way to colorful rainbows. The tree line offers plenty of places to relax in the shade and listen to the waves crashing on shore. Small hotels and take away restaurants offer lounges for rent, food and drinks. A sandy clearing on the west side is perfect for sunbathing during high tide. Beyond the western boulders is a secluded beach and hidden bar. 

Getting Here.  Take the bus to the Anse Boudin stop. The beach is a 20 minute walk from here.

Petite Anse Lazio.  A tiny white sand beach, flanked by smooth orange boulders and short leafy palm trees. It’s relatively secluded and only reachable via a trail from the eastern side of Anse Lazio. The trail leads uphill through palm thicket and over small boulders. Midway along the trail is a fork that leads to a scenic lookout of Anse Lazio. 

Cote d’Or Beach (Anse Volbert).  A lengthy white sand beach in Anse Volbert Village. Its shallow aquamarine waters stretch hundreds of meters into the ocean. Wade through them to an outcrop of orange granite boulders on the south end of the beach. Walk to towards the north end, stopping to pose with a photogenic palm tree leaning over the white sand. It’s a quiet and convenient area to stay. Small hotels, take away restaurants, grocery stores and tour operators line the beachfront road in the village.

Good to Know.  Be cautious of difficult to spot stingrays. Wear water shoes for protection. 

Anse Georgette.  A small and secluded white sand beach at the Lemuria Resort. There are a couple fruit, juice and cocktail vendors along the tree line. Order the coconut mixed with rum and garnished with a hibiscus flower! The currents can make it difficult to swim while the waves are excellent for body surfing. 

Good to Know.  The number of visitors is limited but not heavily enforced. Call a week in advance to reserve a spot. 

Getting Here. Take the bus to the Mont Plaisir stop. Check in at the Lemuria Resort and walk 20 minutes across the golf course to the beach. 

Praslin Sights

Fond Ferdinand Nature Reserve.  A lush nature reserve with trails leading through the island’s tropical palm forest. Spend a couple hours walking the trails and spotting wildlife like the Seychelles Day Gecko, Seychelles Black Parrot and Seychelles Fruit Bat. Trails meander uphill through an expansive grove of Coco de Mer Palms to the reserve’s lookout point. Views from its hilltop boulders peer across St Anne’s Bay towards the Inner Islands. The high winds ruffle the fronds of giant palms and surrounding plants. Before leaving, visit a pen with two giant Aldabra tortoises. 

Good to Know.  The park opens at 8:30am but staff will let you in starting at 8am. Bring insect repellant. 

Getting Here.  Take the bus to the Anse Consolation stop. The park entrance is a quick walk away from here.   

Pro Tip.  Buses only pass by every 1-2 hours on this side of the island. Ask the staff at the ticket office for the current bus schedule to plan your departure time accordingly. 

Places to Eat & Drink on Praslin

Leo’s Food.  A beachside takeaway at Côte d’Or Beach. Come here for their Hawaiian fish burger, curry prawns in rice and Takamaka rum & coke. 

Honesty Bar.  A hidden bar nestled in the jungle beyond the western boulders of Anse Lazio Beach. Come here for their Creole Punch made with three shots of Takamaka Rum and your choice of fruit juice. They have the best priced drinks on the beach! 

The Chill Grill.  A beach front takeaway restaurant at Anse Lazio Beach with a range of grilled and fried bites. Come here for their grilled fish and chips! 

Where to Stay on Praslin 

Mountain Lodge.  A two floor house nestled in the lush hillside above Côte d’Or Beach in Anse Volbert Village. The spacious house has two bedrooms, a full kitchen and spacious living area. An outdoor balcony offers views of the coast, perfect for enjoying with a morning coffee. The back patio has a grill for barbecuing and relaxing during the evenings. Reserve on Booking. 

Getting Around Praslin

Praslin Bus.  The public bus on Praslin is the easiest and cheapest way to get around the island. Bus stops are clearly marked on the pavement. Locals and bus drivers are kind and offer to help if unsure of how to get somewhere. Refer to the Praslin Bus Route. The time tables are out of date but the routes are still accurate. 

Good to Know.  It’s prohibited to bring luggage besides hand bags and totes onto the bus. Need to buy a refillable SPTC card to ride the buses. Fares cost 10 SCR. The card can be purchased from convenient stores around the Praslin Ferry Jetty when arriving on the island. We bought ours at Supermarket Kot Merilin. 

Taxis.  As buses don’t allow luggage onboard, taxis are the only option to and from the ferry jetty and most accommodations. Unfortunately, drivers know this and charge a steep price to get anywhere on the island. A single 10 minute ride can cost €25. 

La Digue

La Digue is a small and sleepy tropical island. It’s a picturesque paradise with white sand beaches, swaying palm trees, colorful flowers and iconic granite boulders. Bicycles are the main way of getting around though much of the island can be walked on foot. 

La Passe. The island’s main town. Its sandy cobblestone streets are flanked by lush palm trees and beachy buildings with hotels, tiny home stays, bike rentals, barbecue restaurants and bars. The ferry jetty welcomes new visitors and bids others bon voyage. 

La Digue Beaches & Boulders 

Anse Patates.  A small but idyllic Seychellois beach. Its white sand shore is dappled with shade from leaning palm trees. Dramatic granite boulders flank both sides of the beach. Cerulean waters and white capped waves crash onshore. A small area between two large boulders acts as a natural wave pool. The beach is best to visit during low tide and not the safest for swimming. 

Anse Severe.  A white sand beach with several beachfront shacks serving takeaway meals, fresh fruit juices and cocktails. Its views look across the Indian Ocean towards the nearby Inner Islands. Put on a pair of water shoes and wade out into the rocky shallows to spot sea creatures like rays, parrot fish and sea cucumber. Two Giant Aldabra tortoises lounge alongside sunbathers and stray dogs. 

Anse Source D'Argent.  A photogenic beach with large granite formations, leaning palm trees, soft white sand shores and turquoise hued waters. It’s easily one of the Seychelles most famous beaches. Arrive early to spend the day relaxing on shore and swimming in the vibrant waters. Fruit vendors welcome visitors with free coconuts!

Getting Here.  The beach officially opens at 8am. You have to pay to enter via L’Union Estate. Tickets cost 150 SCR per person. Walk through the estate and its spice gardens past Giant Union Rock and the Aldabra Tortoise pens to reach the scenic seaside beach trail.

Grand Anse & Petite Anse.  Two twin beaches on the south eastern coast of the island. Grand Anse is the larger of the two. Its shore is flanked by dramatic granite rock formations and boulders. The soft and cushiony white sand is perfect for laying out or picnicking. Petite Anse is the smaller of the two beaches, though still sizable, and very similar in scenery. It’s reachable via a trail on the north side of Grand Anse, taking 10 minutes to reach. 

Good to Know.  The waves and currents make it too dangerous to swim. Beware of Portuguese Man of Wars or Bluebottles that wash up onshore. 

Anse Coco.  A remote crescent shaped white sand beach on the south eastern side of the island. Enter the beach on the south end near Coco Bar. There is a protected cove flanked by large boulders at the north end, perfect for sunbathing and swimming. The currents and waves make the remainder of the beach too dangerous for swimming. 

Getting Here.  Anse Coco is reachable via a clearly marked trail leading from the south side of Petite Anse. The tail leads through the forest and over rocks. Keep an eye out for geckos, salamanders, crabs and giant millipedes. It takes between 20-30 minutes to reach. 

Caiman Beach.  A small but swimmable beach protected by rocks. It’s reachable from Anse Coco or by hiking the Marcus Trail at the Coast. There is a small restaurant serving barbecue, fruit juices and cocktails. Beyond the bar are two large tide pools, perfect for lounging in the refreshing waters. 

Marcus Trail at the Coast.  A coastal nature trail on the eastern tip of the island. It leads from the “end of the road” near Anse Fourmis to the Caiman Beach Bar. You have to climb over boulders, through crevices, across platforms and makeshift stairs. Yellow painted arrows help point the correct direction. The trial continues onwards towards Anse Coco, Petite Anse and Grand Anse. 

Places to Eat & Drink on La Digue

Bikini Bottom.  A beach front takeaway at Anse Severe. Come here for a Slow Turtle Cider and admire the Giant Aldabra Tortoises at sunset. 

Rey & Josh Takeaway.  A very affordable Seychellois style takeaway with a small daily menu. Come here for the fish fillet with creole sauce and the fish curry. 

Fruita Cabana Bar.  A rasta themed beachfront fruit stand with vibey music at Anse Source D'Argent. They offer fresh fruit juices, coconuts and iced coffees. Try the coconut candy, fresh coconut garnished with sugar and lime juice!

Ton Greg’s Pizzeria.  A local spot with well sized wood fired pizzas. Try their Seychellois pizza made with smoked fish and red onions.

Coco Bar.  A beachfront takeaway at Coco Beach offering fresh fruit juices and a barbecue lunch buffet. It’s renowned across the island for its delicious selections! They served whole grilled fish, grilled fish steaks, chicken coconut curry, chow main, white rice and salad. Even despite its remote location, dozens of people flock here around noon for a plate. 

Caiman Beach Bar.  A seaside bar on eastern tip of the island. It’s reachable after a 20 minute hike from Coco Beach or 30 minute hike along the Marcus Trail at the Coast. They serve barbecue lunch, crush juices and rum cocktails. Prices here are quite expensive. 

Chez Jules Restaurant.  A Creole restaurant overlooking the island’s eastern coast. They serve Seychellois dishes, seafood, mocktails and Takamaka rum cocktails. We stopped in for drinks while walking around the island. Try the mango daiquiri and Taka Love, a rum and coconut concoction. 

Where to Stay in La Digue

Pension Hibiscus.  A “self catering” style hotel with individual apartment rentals in La Passe. Each unit has a fullt equipped kitchen, private restroom, cozy bedroom and an outdoor patio. It’s within walking distance to the ferry jetty, beaches, grocery stores, restaurants and bars. Reserve on Booking. 

Getting Around La Digue 

La Digue is a very small island, easily navigable on foot, by bike or golf cart. Most hotels provide bikes for guests to use while a few rental agencies near the La Passe ferry terminal rent golf carts and bikes by the day. 

Getting Between Islands

Inner Island Ferries.  Ferries are the best way to get between the Seychelles Inner Islands of Mahe, Prasllin and La Digue. Cat Cocos is the main company operating routes between the islands. Book tickets with Sey Ferry online in advance to secure a seat.

Good to Know.  Do not underestimate the rough seas. Many people began experiencing sea sickness about 20 minutes into the hour long voyage.

Seychelles on a Budget

The Seychelles can be a notoriously expensive destination yet easily visited on a budget. We spent 8 days here, maximizing beach time and stretching our wallet. 

Fruit Stands.  Beaches and roadsides are often dotted with fruit vendors selling freshly harvested tropical fruits. Many offer pressed juices or blended smoothies.

Public Beaches.  The Seychelles are world famous for their pristine beaches. Maximize time exploring the free public beaches. Bring your own snacks and drinks to save money.

Self Catering Stays.  Self Catering Stays refer to any type of guest house or vacation rental with a kitchen. They’re often the most affordable places to stay with space to cook your own meals. 

Take Aways.  If eating out, avoid the expensive restaurants and visit the take aways. They’re small roadside kiosks or food trucks offering affordable meals taken to go. They’re extremely popular with locals and budget travelers. Meals typically cost 100-150 rupee. 

Fish Markets.  Fishing is one of the Seychelles main businesses. Small fish markets are common along the coastal roads with fishermen selling the daily catch and barbecuing your selections for fraction of a restaurant price.

Seychellois Cuisine 

Slow Turtle Cider.  An alcoholic apple cider local to the Seychelles.

Creole Curry.  A mix of spices, tomatoes, onions, garlic, curry leaves, fish and sometimes coconut. 

Smoked Fish Salad.  Smoked fish served with mangos and papaya. 

Grilled Fish.  Red snapper, barracuda or parrot fish grilled over coconut husks. 

Ladob.  Plantain and sweet potatoes boiled with coconut milk, sugar, nutmeg and vanilla. It can be made savory by adding fish. 

Breadfruit. Try it cooked over an open flame, fried, mashed or as chips 

Satini.  A cooked mixture of green papaya and mango cooked with fish and coconut. 

Coconut Candy.  A halved coconut with its meat sliced into bite size pieces and garnished with sugar and lime. Order it from a beachside fruit stand. 

Location Specifics

When to Visit.  We visited the Seychelles in late August, during the peak of the dry season. Expect a mixture of sun, clouds and rain. Plan your beach days and outdoor activities accordingly. 

Language.  Creole, French and English are the three most commonly spoken languages across the Seychelles. Locals are more than happy to talk with visitors, provide recommendations and offer directions. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit card is accepted almost everywhere across the Seychelles. Carry some Seychelles Rupees for time when card machines are down or when buying from small roadside vendors.

Sand Flies.  Sand flies are present on many of the beaches, often landing and crawling around on you while lying out. Thankfully they don’t bite but can become quite the annoyance. 

Mosquitos.  Bring insect repellant. Mosquitos are ever present across the Seychelles, especially in the more jungelous areas and at night.

For Next Time… 

The next time we visit the Seychelles, we plan to continue island hopping and visit a few nearby locations we missed on this trip. 

Silhouette Island.  A large but mostly uninhabited island covered in tropical forest with hiking trails and secluded beaches. 

Curieuse Island.  An island home to Giant Aldabra Tortoises, Coco de Mer Palms, white sand beaches and sea turtles. It’s reachable from Praslin on many island tours. 

St Pierre Island.  A tiny uninhabited island off the coast from Praslin with granite rock formations, palm trees and coral reefs. It’s a popular snorkeling spot. 

Felicite, Coco Island, Grad Soeur & Petitie Soeur.  A grouping of tiny tree covered islands surrounded by underwater marine life and snorkeling areas. 

Zanzibar, Tanzania

Zanzibar, Tanzania

Zanzibar is an exotic island off the coast of mainland Tanzania in the Indian Ocean. It’s famed for its white sand beaches, turquoise waters and historic spice trade. History lives on in the narrow alleyways, markets and cultural sights of Stone Town. Maasai tribesmen sell beaded accessories and perform cultural dances. Swahili phrases like Hakuna Matata (no worries) and Pole Pole (slowly slowly) are the local way of life. We spent a week on the island, splitting out time between Stone Town and the beach towns of Kendwa and Nungwi. 

Stone Town

Stone Town is the historic district of Zanzibar City. Its narrow streets and winding alleyways meander between landmark buildings, former sultanate palaces and crumbling ruins. Stained glass windows, wooden balconies and ornately carved doors decorate their tan facades. Tropical plants and palm trees grow from small gardens and roadsides. Stray cats roam freely, often patrolling unoccupied stoops. Local merchants sell jewelry, spices, ebony artifacts, safari style paintings and beaded decorations. It’s a small district but easy to get lost in, making its narrow walkways even more enchanting. 

Stone Town Historical Sights 

The Old Fort.  An Arab style fort built to defend Zanzibar during the sultanate’s rule. Its sand colored walls, curved facade and rounded battlements are characteristic of historic forts built in Oman. The inside of the fort hosts an outdoor amphitheater with regular musical performances as well as a couple dozen craft and souvenir shops. A tourist offices advertise well priced tours, transfers and cooking classes. 

Slave Market Museum.  Stone Town was one of the main port cities used during the East African Slave Trade. The town’s former slave market was a sight of horrors. A museum recounts the history of the slave trade from its Portuguese colonial beginnings to expansion by the Omani sultanate and eventual abolition by the British. A church was built over the location of the slave market. Its wiping post and two former cells remain as a reminder of the period’s atrocities. Outside of the church is a sobering monument of enslaved Africans with iron chains around their necks. 

Good to Know.  The museum requires a guide to enter. One can be hired at the gate outside of the museum for a gratuity. Our guide shared in depth information of the history of the slave trade in Stone Town and the market’s horrific history. 

The Royal Cemetery.  A cemetery and museum dedicated to the generations of sultans that ruled Zanzibar until the island’s independence. A museum curator led us through the small exhibit, recounting the history and lineage of the sultans. We visited the cemetery where most of the them and their descendants are buried. Each grave sight is simple, a white plate red rectangle surrounds each gravel covered plot.

Good to Know.  Both of the neighboring sultan’s palaces, The People’s Palace and House of Wonders were closed for renovations.  

The Old Dispensary.  One of Stone Town’s best preserved historic buildings. Its ornate facade is decorated in three levels of intricately carved wooden balconies. Its teal color and location along the waterfront allow it to stand out.  

Stone Town Coastal Sights 

Stone Town Waterfront & Harbor.  The waterfront of Stone Town is lined with historic buildings, palm lined walkways and a harbor dotted with anchored tour and fishing boats. 

Forodhani Park.  A lush waterfront park with a palm lined walkways, flowering trees and views of Stone Town’s harbor. Locals guides advertise walking tours while boat captains offer day trips to neighboring islands. Small kiosks offer light bites and drinks while the park comes to life at night for an evening street food market. 

Shangani Public Beach.  A yellow sand beach hooking around the western tip of Stone Town. It’s popular for sunsets, boat tours and to watch locals play beach football. Multiple luxury hotels have restaurants and pools looking out over the beach.

Prison Island.  A small island off the coast of Zanzibar famed for its Aldabra Tortoise Sanctuary and historic ruins. The giant and slow moving tortoises roam in large pens. They range from two weeks to over two centuries old! Their shells are marked with red and blue numbers noting their age and gender. Vibrant peacocks strut around the island’s trails. The bright blue surrounding water are home to clusters of spiky sea urchins and colorful starfish. The island is named after a prison built by the Omani sultans and later used as a quarantine camp by the British. The prison is now used as a historical exhibit for Zanzibar with shops, a restaurant and bar. 

Getting Here.  Boat captains leave from the beach in front of the Zanzibar Ferry Terminal. They charge $20 for a private boat and round trip transfer to Prison Island. The boat ride takes about 20 minutes.

Entrance Fees.  There is a small port fee of a few dollars and separate entrance fee to visit the tortoise sanctuary. 

The Island Of Spice 

Zanzibar is known as The Island of Spice. Its long history of spice cultivation has influenced the island’s culture, identity and cuisine. Spice permeates throughout the flavors and aromas of local cuisine, coffees and markets. One of the best ways to experience the spices are at the source, spice farms. 

Kizimbani Spice Farm.  A spice farm offering a glimpse into the wide array of spices and fruits grown on Zanzibar. A guide led us through gardens with flowers, fruits, plants and vines used to produce different spices like cardamom, peppercorn, clove, lemongrass, nutmeg, ginger, turmeric, galangal, cocoa, cinnamon (bark and root), vanilla and curry leaf. A spice hunter followed us, climbing trees, picking leaves and digging up roots to harvest raw spices as examples. At the end of the tour, we were adorned in palm leaf woven bracelets, neck ties and hats. Roadside vendors sell packets of ground spices, tea and coffee as well as soaps, perfumes and oils. Visit a fruit stand to taste a cornucopia of fruits grown on the island including grapefruit, orange, cucumber, passion fruit, avocado, mango, jackfruit, watermelon, papaya, pineapple and starfruit.

Getting Here.  Hire a driver along the promenade for $30 USD round trip. No reservation is needed ahead of time. You’ll be paired with a guide and spice picker for free at the farm. The tour is free however guides operate on tips. 

Shop the Markets & Bazaars 

Darajani Bazaar.  A small but robust market under covered alleyways and historic sheds. Merchants sell colorful packages of ground spices, spice blends, vanilla beans, teas and coffees. Vendors display piles of tropical fruits, fresh vegetables and leafy greens on tables. Butchers prepare cuts of meat while fish mongers filet the morning’s catch. Shop keepers sell traditional woven baskets. Women bake stacks of aromatic flatbreads on a charcoal burning skillets. We purchased groceries for the week in addition to a refreshed supply is spices, coffees and teas. 

Pro Tip.  Visit in the mid morning. Prices are fare but like with all markets, haggle and negotiate for a better deal. 

Forodhani Night Food Market.  A nightly food market held in Forodhani Park. Charismatic chefs lure in customers with their persistence and genuinely tasty street food. Tables are covered in skewers of meat, seafood, starchy vegetables and flatbreads, all cooked over charcoal grills. Some chefs prepare local specialties like Urogo and Zanzibar Pizza. Juice vendors press sugarcane and ginger into a sweet blend. Shawarma carts broil and shave vertical rotisseries of meat. We came here for dinner two nights, filling up on a variety of street food. 

• Urojo.  A Tanzanian street food soup made with a savory and sweet blend of spices, potatoes, crispy fried chickpea fritters and cassava shavings. It’s usually vegetarian by default.

• Zanzibar Pizza.  A thin dough wrapped around a variety of savory or sweet fillings and griddled like a pancake until cooked. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Zanzibar Coffee House.  A hotel cafe with spiced local specialties. Come here for their spice coffee made with Zanzibar spices, muesli with nuts and dates or pastries like cinnamon raisin rolls and date squares. 

Out of Afrika.  A touristy yet vibey restaurant along Stone Town’s waterfront promenade with a second floor balcony. The menu offers seafood and fruit dishes like watermelon gazpacho, pumpkin soups with coconut and the grilled sesame-crusted tuna salad. Try the Swahili cocktails like the Zanzibar spice punch or coriander and chili margarita 

Secret Garden.  A cocktail bar and restaurant in the open air ruins of a historic Stone Town building. Crumbling plastered walls are covered in plants and vines. Potted palm trees spaced between tables and chairs in front of a stage. Come here for the live music and hibiscus cocktails! 

Mama Mia Gelato Italiano.  A small gelato chain local to Zanzibar with classic and tropical flavors. They the cinnamon, vanilla and coconut.  

Beach House Restaurant & Bar.  A beautiful beach from restaurant with a large outdoor patio overlooking the Indian Ocean. Come here for sunset cocktails and live music. 

Kendwa & Nungwi

Kendwa & Nungwi are two beach towns on the northern tip of Zanzibar. They’re popular destinations with lengthy white sand beaches, swimmable turquoise waters and beachfront resorts. Restaurants serve Swahili cuisine and seafood dishes paired with local beers. Galleries and shops sell Maasai textiles, beaded jewelry, paintings and ebony figurines. Tour operators provide snorkeling excursions and sunset dhow boat cruises. 

Kendwa Beach.  Kendwa Beach is one of the prettiest beaches on Zanzibar! Its wide white sand shore meets the calming turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean. Several beachfront resorts and restaurants offer umbrellas and beach lounges to paying customers. Maasai tribesmen walk the beach, selling beaded jewelry, posing for photos and saying Jambo (hello) to passersby. 

Kendwa Beach Gallery.  Kendwa Beach connects to Nungwi Beach during low tide. The rock cliffs between become an art gallery with hundreds of animal and Massai paintings. 

Nungwi Beach.  One of Zanzibar’s largest and most commercial beaches. Its white sand shore is lined with swimming areas, resorts, restaurants, souvenir shops and tour operators. The coast wraps around the island’s northern point making it perfect for long walks on the beach.

Good to Know. Beach vendors can be more aggressive in Nungwi than in Kendwa. 

Coastal Excursions 

Mnemba Atoll Snorkel Tour.  The Mnemba Atoll is coastal formation with shallow sandbars, coral reefs and a singular private island. Its aquamarine waters are home to starfish, dolphins and tropical fish. Speed boats ferry passengers from Nungwi to the atoll, stopping to spot dolphins along the way. A small pod porpoised above the water as snorkelers jumping in to swim along. 

Mnemba Atoll Sand Bar.  During low tide, large sandbars form around the Mnemba Atoll’s perimeter. Hundreds of boats moor in the shallows as sunbathers relax and walk along on the temporary white sand beaches. Small reefs offer places to snorkel and spot tropical fish, the occasional starfish, swaying anemone and seagrasses. We booked ahead of time online with Langentours on Get Your Guide. The tour can be booked cheaper in person from any of the beach vendors. 

Good to Know.  Please do not remove the starfish from the water or touch them. It will seriously harm them. 

Nungwi Sunset Dhow Cruise.  Dhow boats are a traditional sailing vessel used by Zanzibar’s fishermen and spice merchants. The wooden ships are characterized by their triangular canvas sail hoisted from a singular mast. They have become a quintessential part of island’s cultural identity and heritage. Captains offer nightly sunset cruises from Nungwi and Kendwa on these unique ships. Joined by the crew, a live band and other passengers, we sailed the coastal waters for over 2 hours. The band sang in Swahili and performed using makeshift instruments during the voyage. The crew prepared fresh fruits, mixed cocktails and sold beverages and snacks. We booked ahead of time online with Uforo Tour and Travel on Get Your Guide. The tour can be booked cheaper in person from any of the beach vendors. 

Pro Tip.  Bring a sweater or jacket if it’s a cloudy day. It can get chilly onboard. 

Places to Eat & Drink

ZaVa Nungwi.  A smaller beachfront restaurant with local dishes, beach lounges and happy hour cocktails. We came here for afternoon beers overlooking the Indian Ocean then returned for dinner and happy hour. Try whole grilled white snapper, fish burger and Dawa cocktail. 

Sunset Kendwa.  A popular beach front restaurant and resort at Kendwa Beach. We stopped in for their daily happy hour, sipping on $6 cocktails. 

Mococo Beach Villa.  A quiet beachfront restaurant with beach lounges under thatched umbrellas and palm trees. Come here for coffees, cocktails and light bites. 

Zanzibar Cuisine 

Seafood.  Fresh caught fish is a common aspect of the cuisine on Zanzibar. A popular preparation is a whole fish grilled or fried. 

Pilau.  A hearty and flavorful “one pot” rice dish made with aromatic spices, onions, tomatoes, potatoes and a protein like beef, chicken or soy. 

Sambusa.  A common street food snack across Zanzibar brought over by Indian influences. The dough packets are stuffed with spices, potatoes and peas.

Curry.  A common spice used to make savory stews and dishes made with meat, seafood or vegetables. 

Chapati.  A type of roti used to scoop stews and curries by hand. 

Kachumbari.  A salad made with chopped tomatoes, red onions and chili peppers. 

Sugar Cane.  Sugar cane is grown across the island. Street food vendors press it into juice or chop it into bite size pieces. Try it press with gineger!

Dawa.  A commonly served local cocktail made with konyagi, lime juice, honey and tonic water. 

Where to Stay

Lofihouse.  A small and simple apartment with two private rooms in Stone Town’s historic center. Its has a communal kitchen and laundry machine for guests. Reserve on Booking.

Kendwa Bungalow.  A cute bungalow on a semi secluded property in Kendwa. It has a shared kitchen, outdoor dining room and private suite. It’s located about 15 minutes in foot from the beach. Book on Airbnb. 

Location Specifics

Mandatory Inbound Travel Insurance.  The semi autonomous government of Zanzibar requires all foreign visitors or purchase state sponsored travel insurance. This is regardless of any private travel insurance you may have while visiting the island. It’s a classic scam but they won’t let you enter without it. Purchase on the official government site, Visit Zanzibar, before of when arriving. 

Tours & Activities.  Book tours and activities in person and negotiate with local guides for the best prices. Guides frequently approach visitors offering a range of experiences including island tours, spice farm tours, walking tours and taxis. The tourist office at the Old Fort advertises well priced tours, transfers and cooking classes. 

When to Visit.  We visited in mid August, during Zanzibar’s peak season, coinciding with the dry season. The time of year is typically sunny and warm, with temperatures around 80F by day and 70F by night. Strangely, it was overcast most days with light rain in Nungwi and Kendwa after 11am.

Cash vs Card.  Carry cash! Most businesses only accept cash, either Tanzanian Shillings or US Dollars. No one will accept US Dollars over 10 years old or with tears and writing on them. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Tanzanian laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Language.  English, Italian and Swahili are commonly spoken by many people in Zanzibar. 

Swahili Words & Phrases 

Swahili is the local language in Zanzibar. We learned several basic words and phrases during our travels here. 

• Jambo. A formal greeting meaning hello. 

• Mambo.  An informal greeting meaning hello or how are you?

• Poa or Poa Poa. A common response to Mambo, meaning good or well. 

• Habari Asubuhi.Good morning. 

• Lala Salama.  Good night or sleep well.

• Kwa Heri.  Goodbye. 

• Asante.  Thank you. 

• Asante Sana.  Thank you very much. 

• Karibu.  Welcome or you’re welcome.

• Hakuna Matata.  The phrase made world famous by the Lion King. It’s a real Swahili phrase meaning no worries or no problems.

• Pole Pole.  A phrase meaning “slowly, slowly” or slow down. It’s a common expression on the island. 

Getting Around 

On Foot.  The historic center of Stone Town is very walkable and easily the best way to see the city’s sights and experience its culture. Plan to wander the maze-like streets and get lost.  

By Taxi.  Hire a taxi driver from Stone Town to Kendwa or Nungwi. Drivers wait along the Mizingani Road promenade. The transfer takes about 1 hour 30 minutes. Don’t pay more than $40 USD. 

Tuk Tuk.  The small three wheeled vehicles are a popular way of covering short distances in Stone Town and between Kendwa and Nungwi. Prices are cheap, costing no more than 10K shillings ($4 USD).

Elsewhere in Tanzania 

We spent four weeks traveling across Tanzania. The country is a remarkable destination for adventure seekers, nature lovers and cultural enthusiasts. Hike to the summit of Africa’s tallest mountain, Mt. Kilimanjaro or explore the country’s vast national parks and wildlife on a Tanzanian Safari.

For Next Time…

One week in Zanzibar was not nearly enough time to enjoy this Indian Ocean paradise. When we return, we plan to explore the forests in the island’s interior and other nearby islands. 

Jozani Forest.  A tropical forest in the south of the island with rainforest, mangroves and coastal ecosystems. It’s home to chameleons, dolphins and colobus monkeys. 

Pemba Island.  A large island apart of the Zanzibar archipelago. It’s famed for its coral reefs, abundant marine life, white sand beaches, tropical forests and spice farms. 

Summiting Mt. Kilimanjaro

Africa’s Tallest Mountain

Mt. Kilimanjaro is Africa’s tallest mountain and one of the world’s Seven Summits. The highest point, Uhuru Peak, tops out at 5,895 meters or 19,341 feet above sea level. While difficult to hike, it’s considered a “walking mountain,” as it doesn’t require specialized equipment or experience to summit. We spent 7 days hiking the Lemosho Route, a scenic route with a higher success rate than others. 

The Lemosho Route 

The Lemosho Route is a multi-day trek to the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro. It’s very scenic, leading through picturesque landscapes and all of the mountain’s climate zones. The summit becomes visibly closer each day of the hike, offering rewarding views. The Lemosho Route is best for slowly acclimating to the increases in altitude. It takes 8 days but can be completed in 6 or 7 days, depending on speed and acclimatization. The route has an elevation gain of 3,795 meters (12,450 feet) to reach the summit. It covers a distance of 48km (30 miles) to the Uhuru Peak. 

Preparation

The day prior to beginning our Mt. Kilimanjaro hike gave us time to prepare for the adventure of a lifetime. We were introduced to our guide who briefed us on the week ahead and inspected our gear. He brought us to RRM Outdoor Rental Equipment Stores to rent all missing gear needed for the hike. Afterwards, we went shopping for snacks at the Rafiki Supermarketand purchased Diamox from the Mount Kibo Pharmacy. We spent the evening relaxing at our hotel and sipping on a Kilimanjaro Lager as a toast to the upcoming trek!

Day One

Introductions.  The first day of our hike to the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro began with an introduction to the crew that would be accompanying and supporting us over the week ahead. Our guide introduced us to the assistant guide, the cook and team of 10 porters! They sang the Kilimanjaro Song, Jambo Bwana, to warmly welcome us. We later heard it countless times at camps and along the trail to the summit. 

Lemosho Gate.  The crew shuttled us to the Lemosho Gate for the official start of our hike. In route, we passed through The Cultivation Zone, one of five climate zones on the mountain, characterized by hilly fields of hardy crops and pine trees. The gate marks the start of the Lemosho Route, beginning at an elevation of 2,100 meters (6,890 feet). The first 7km leads through the Vegetation Zone to the Mti Mkubwa Camp. 

The Vegetation Zone.  The Vegetation Zone is the second of five climate zones on the mountain. We hiked two hours through its verdant cloud forest and foggy pathways to reach the route’s first camp.

Mti Mkubwa Camp.  A small forest clearing surrounded by dense trees inhabited by wild monkeys. It sits at a relatively low elevation of 2,650 meters (8,695 feet). We met our crew here for our first night on the mountain. They set up our tent and outfitted it with a small dining nook stocked with teas, coffee, spreads and snacks. The cook served us the first of many feasts to come. The meal included cucumber soup, avocado salad, fried potatoes and fish makange. We played cards before bed, waking up in the middle of the night to see the starry arms of the Milky Way stretching across the sky.  

Day Two

An Early Start.  The day began with an early start before the sunrise. The crew prepared “bed tea,” hot water for washing and a breakfast spread comprised of porridge, crepes, omelettes and toast. Soon after, we continued our hike through the Vegetation Zone, passing moss covered trees with colobus monkeys jumping between their branches.

The Moorland Zone.  The trail led into, The Moorland Zone, the third of five climate zones on the mountain. It’s characterized by low lying bushes, dry grasses, flowering plants and small boulders. The open and dusty trail revealed scenic panoramas of the landscape and distant views of Kilimanjaro’s snow capped peak. We hiked 7km over 4 hours until reaching the Shira 1 Camp. 

Shira 1 Camp.  The first camp on the Shira Plateau, a relatively flat expanse of The Moorland Zone. The camp sits at a moderate elevation of 3,610 meters (11,844 feet). We arrived as the porters finished setting up our tent. Others arrived with large sacs balanced on their heads and packs slung over the shoulders. Ravens flew around us as we enjoyed the scenic views and ate vegetable pasta for lunch. 

Back On the Trail.  With plenty of energy and daylight left, we continued hiking across The Moorland Zone. The dusty trail lead us 10km further across the Shira Plateau to the Shira 2 Camp. We arrived a day ahead of schedule, having trekked 17km over the course of the day. Mt. Kilimanjaro’s icy peak grew noticeably closer. 

Shira 2 Camp.  A camp at the opposite end of the Shira Plateau at an elevation of 3,850 meters (12,631 feet). Colorful tents stood between boulders and bushes, rattled by strong winds of the open terrain. The sunset cast an amber glow across the landscape as the cold of night set in. We hunkered down inside of our tent, resting and waiting for dinner. The cook served us leek soup, coconut milk stewed beans and rice. We celebrated the success of the day with a packet of m&ms. 

Medical Evaluations.  With the increased elevation, our guides began performing nightly medical evaluations. They checked our heart rate, blood oxygen levels and general wellbeing. 

Day Three

A Rough Night.  No one slept well during the previous night. The cold and wind kept us and our crew awake more than half of the evening. The warmth of the sun rose spread across the Shira Plateau, melting the frost as we began day three. 

The Alpine Desert Zone.  The trail lead higher in elevation to The Alpine Desert Zone, the fourth of five climate zones on the mountain. The terrain was dry, rocky and barren with little to no vegetation. We spotted a tiny Four Striped Grass Mouse scurrying between the rocks. The temperate became colder and the air noticeably thinner. The trail lead steeply uphill to The Lava Tower.

The Lava Tower.  A jagged geological formation created by hardened lava that cooled inside a now eroded volcanic vent. At 4,600 meters (15,092 feet), it’s a key feature along the Lemosho Route and a high altitude campsite. Getting here was difficult due to the increased elevation, though necessary for acclimating.

A Temporary Descent.  The trail led us on a temporary descent from The Lava Tower, through The Alpine Desert and back into The Moorland. The path followed a partially frozen stream, past small waterfalls and into progressively lusher terrain. Colorful lichens covered boulders, green bushes sprouted from the hillside and flowers added color to the landscape. A grove of Giant Groundsels, grew from the riverside. They’re alien-like trees with a central trunk and bushy arms topped with green leafy flourish. 

Baranco Camp.  The trail led to the Baranco Camp, situated at an elevation of 3,900 meters (12,795 feet). It’s one of the largest camps on the mountain and a meeting point for multiple routes. A nomadic village of colorful tents, enthusiastic crews and optimistic hikers sprawl across the landscape. A sea of clouds parted to reveal the town of Moshi 3,200 meters (10,500 feet) below. We rested during the afternoon before dinner. The cook prepared Ndzi, a Tanzanian vegetable stew with plantains, sweet potato, green beans and onions served alongside Chapatti, an East African flatbread.

Day Four

The Baranco Wall.  The trail begins with a hike up the Baranco Wall, a steep rocky ridge just beyond the Baranco Camp. Hikers and their crews scale its 257 meter (843 feet) tall face. While steep, it doesn’t require any specialty equipment, only care and patience. The top of the wall has panoramic views of Mt. Kilimanjaro’s ice capped summit, the cloud covered lowlands and distant silhouette of the Meru Volcano. The trail continues 6km further through a series of scenic valleys to The Karanga Camp. 

The Karanga Camp.  The final camp before Mt. Kilimanjaro’s Base Camp. It resides at 3,995 meters (13,107 feet), similar in elevation to the past two camps. Us and our crew reached the camp by the early afternoon. We walked up the camp’s ridge to help with further with the acclimatization. The exposed location down slope from the glacial summit makes the camp cold, especially at nighttime. 

Pro Tip.  Stuff tomorrow’s clothes inside your sleeping bag at night to warm up before changing in the morning. Thanks mom! 

Day Five

The Hike to Base Camp.  Day 5 began with our assent to The Barafu Camp, Mt. Kilimanjaro’s Base Camp. We hiked 4km across the dry and aired terrain of The Alpine Desert. Slate rocks creaked like broken pottery beneath our feet. The snow covered peak of Mt. Kilimanjaro towered ahead. We reached the camp four hours later.

Barafu Camp.  Barafu translates to “Ice” in Swahili. It’s a cold place, located at an elevation of 4,673 meters (15,331 feet). Tents covered the rugged mountain side. We sat outside of ours, peering across the mountain’s saddle towards the jagged Mawenzi Peak, the third highest in Africa. The cook prepared vegetable soup, fried fish and savory potato pastries stuffed with veggies for lunch. We spent the remainder of the afternoon and evening relaxing and acclimating. 

Day Six

Midnight Hike to The Summit.  The hike to the summit began at midnight. Our guides led us uphill along steep winding trails through the dark of night. Rocks, dust and fine gravel crunched beneath our feet. The stars spanned the night sky, twinkling brightly overhead. Ice and snow banks appeared the further we hiked. Guide erupted into spontaneous songs offering encouragement to those along the trail. 

The Arctic Zone.  The trek to the summit brought us into The Arctic Zone, the fifth of five climate zones on the mountain. It’s characterized by subzero temperatures, snow covered terrain and icy glaciers. 

Stella Point.  Daylight began to break 6 hours into our hike. The scarlet hued sunrise cast a warm glow over the cold and barren landscape. It was at the same time that we reached Stella Point, a lower peak below the main summit. It stands at 5,756 meters (18,885 feet). 

The Trail to the Summit.  The trail continued one hour past Stella Point. Though relatively flat, the distance in between was the treacherous for many hikers suffering altitude sickness. Black lava rocks and glossy obsidian contrasted the white Arctic landscape. Icy pinnacles flanked the trail, glaciers hugged the slopes and snow blanketed the crater. 

Uhuru Peak.  Mt. Kilimanjaro is Africa’s tallest mountain and one of the World’s Seven Summits. The highest point, tops out at 5,895 meters (19,341 feet) above sea level. After days of hiking, a congratulatory sign welcomed us to the summit! it was an overwhelming experience to reach. Tears were indeed shed. We celebrated with frozen candy bars and hot ginger tea. The mountain was surrounded by a sea of puffy white clouds. The shadow of Mt. Kilimanjaro cast across them. 

The Rapid Descent.  The guides limited us to 15 minutes at the summit due to the harsh environmental conditions. The rapid descent to the base camp took 3 hours. We napped and ate lunch before descending further into the Moorland Zone. The trail lead to the High Camp, located at 3,950 meters (12,960 feet), one hour and a half later. It was the perfect rest area but not our final camp. The descent continued into the Vegetation Zone. Porters passed us in both directions as we followed the rocky path to the Mweka Camp, located at an elevation of 3,100 meters (10,171 feet). We spent our last night camping on the mountain here. 

Day Seven

Crew Appreciation.  The final day began with a goodbye to our mountain crew. We met them after breakfast to express our gratitude and to distribute tips. 

The Rainforest Hike.  The last leg of our journey led us through the rainforest. Our guide led us along the muddy and slippery trail through the foggy forest. Moss covered trees, giant ferns and tiny orchids flanked the path. Monkeys hopped between tree branches as birds squawked in the canopy. It took 3 hours to reach the park gate. 

Certificates & Celebration.  Park rangers verified our successful hike to the summit and awarded us certificates recognizing the achievement. Our crew brought us back to our hotel in Moshi and presented them to us while singing the Kilimanjaro song, Jambo Bwana. We spent the afternoon relaxing and celebrating with a bottle of South African bubbly while overlooking the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro. 

Moshi, Tanzania

Moshi is a town at the base of Mt. Kilimanjaro and starting point for many multi-day hikes up the mountain. The town is home to tour operators, gear outfitters, pharmacies, grocery stores and hotels making it easy location for last minute gear and needs. 

Rede Tours & Safaris.  A well reviewed tour operator offering multi-day hiking trips to the summit Mt. Kilimanjaro. We booked the Unforgettable 8 Days Lemosho Route Trekking on Kilimanjaro with them prior to arriving in Moshi. They arranged every aspect of our hike including guides, porters, a cook and supplies. 

Rafiki Supermarket.  A chain grocery store with aisles of snacks and drinks. Come here to stock up on granola, dates, chocolates and chips prior to hiking. 

RRM Outdoor Rental Equipment Store.  An outdoor outfitter with all rental gear needed to hike Mt. Kilimanjaro. We rented several items needed to complete the hike at the recommendation of our guide. Cost can quickly add up so be sure you actually need everything being recommended. 

Mount Kibo Pharmacy.  One of the largest pharmacies in Moshi. They sell Diamox, a medication used to cope with AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) also known as altitude sickness. No prescription is needed and a weak supply costs less than $1. 

Where to Stay

The Belle View Inn Bed and Breakfast.  A small hotel with comfortable rooms, daily breakfast, luggage storage and transportation between the airport. We stayed here before and after our hike to Mt. Kilimanjaro. On a clear day, the peak of the mountain is visible from their second floor breakfast hut! Reserve on Booking.

Places to Eat & Drink 

Having some time in Moshi before and after our hike to the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro, we dined out at a couple local restaurants and a coffee house. 

Maembe Garden.  An elevated restaurant with Swahili cuisine and well made cocktails. We came here to celebrate after summiting Mt. Kilimanjaro. Try the veggies samosas and fish makange. To drink, order a Dawa, the local cocktail made with vodka, honey, lime and sugar. 

Aikama Organic Restaurant.  A restaurant in a commercial shopping center with Tanzanian and Swahili food. We each ordered the Fish Makange, a whole fried fish covered in a mixture of sautéed bell peppers and onions. It’s typically served with cardamom rice. 

SSOH Coffee Factory.  A cafe and roastery with house roasted Tanzanian coffee and artisanal madeleines.

Hiking Tips & Preparation 

Hiking Mt. Kilimanjaro requires little preparation outside of practice hikes and acquiring the correct gear. We came up with several tips to follow while on the mountain. 

Practice Hikes.  Practice half to full day hikes on weekends with some steep inclines at least one month prior to condition yourself. 

Support Network.  Hike the mountain with a group or someone you know. Having a support network while hiking goes a long way. Guides are also great hype-men along the way!

Stay Positive.  Believe in yourself and stay positive! Celebrate milestones with little rewards like the eating a chocolate when you reach the next camp or rest area. 

Stay Hydrated.  Dehydration is the largest concern when hiking. Bring or rent an CamelBak with capacity for 3 liters of water per day. Have guides refill them before hiking for the day. Drink ginger tea to open the airways. Avoid drinking alcohol. 

Pace Yourself.  The altitude and exhaustion can quickly added up. Hike a longer route, like the Lemosho Route, to spend more time acclimating to the high altitude. 

Dress Warm.  Temperatures at night and especially at the summit are below freezing. Plan to add layers the further you ascend and strip them off as you descend. 

Extreme UV.  Prepare for extreme UV radiation at high elevations. Wear sunblock during the day, protective lip balm and UV reflective sunglasses. 

Nighttime Noise.  The noise of the wind is enough to keep you up at night. Being ear plugs or noise canceling headphones to drown out sounds. 

Best Time of Year.  Hike during the dry season for the least chance of rain, snow and muddy trails. It’s colder during this time of year but is often the best time to hike Mt Kilimanjaro. The dry season lasts from July to October. We hiked in late July. 

Hygiene.  Basic squatting toilets are available at each campsite. Bring your own toilet paper and hand sanitizer. Guides often provide hot water and soap before meals. Some even offer scented hot towels. 

Cell Service. There is minimal cell service or network on the mountain. Plan to disconnect or use limited service to keep family and friends updated. 

Electricity.  There is no electricity on the mountain. Bring a high capacity power bank to keep devices charged. Keep phones on airplane and low power mode to conserve battery. Store phones and power banks in a warm location. 

Packing List 

Clothing 

• Thermal leggings or underwear 

• Thermal long sleeve shirts 

• Waterproof rain jacket & rain pants 

• Insulated winter coat 

• Insulated snow pants 

• Winter hat, gloves & scarf

• Wool sweaters 

• Thermal socks 

Gear 

• Hiking boots 

• Pair of hiking poles 

• Gators (to cover ankles from dust) 

• Headlamp & extra batteries 

• High capacity power bank

• Sunglasses 

• Sunblock 

• Lip balm with SPF

• CamelBak for water 

• Thermal water bottle for hot drinks 

• Hand and toe warmers 

• Toilet paper 

• Hand sanitizer

• Facial wipes 

• Diamox (altitude sickness medication) 

• Insulated sleeping bag 

• Backpack or Daypack 

• Pillow or neck cushion for sleeping 

• Hiking mattress(typically included) 

• Tent (typically included) 

Snacks 

• Trail mix or granola 

• Chocolates (m&ms & candy bar)

• Dried ginger candies 

• Peppermint hard candies 

• Ginger tea 

Costs & Tipping 

Hiking Mt. Kilimanjaro is expensive! Costs are not always clear when booking tours. Make sure to understand all costs and fees ahead of time. 

Costs & Fees.  We booked a “budget” hike for $1,500 USD per person. This covered entry permits, food and some equipment. An additional $700 USD per person was paid in person to cover crew wages. 

Tipping.  Providing gratuities is a standard practice and expected after hiking Mt. Kilimanjaro. Below is a breakdown of the expected amounts to pay per group. Individual tips will be less depending on group size, crew size and number of days hiking. Tips are given to the lead guide, announced and distributed on the last day of the hike. 

• Lead Guides:  $20-$25 per day 

• Assistant Guides:  $15-$20 per day 

• Cooks:  $10-$20 per day 

• Porters:  $8-$10 per day

• Specialty Porters (Waiter, Summit Porter, Toilet Porter): $10-$12 per day

Swahili Words & Phrases 

Swahili is the local language in Tanzania. We learned several basic words and phrases from our guides and porters while hiking Mt. Kilimanjaro.  

• Pole Pole.  Slowly slowly or take it easy. It’s the speed and theme on the mountain often repeated by guides, porters and trekkers. 

• Hakuna Matata.  The phrase made world famous by the Lion King. It’s a real Swahili phrase meaning no worries or no problems. It’s often used to let guides know you’re doing okay. 

• Jambo. A formal greeting meaning hello. 

• Mambo.  An informal greeting meaning hello or how are you?

• Poa or Poa Poa. A common response to Mambo, meaning good or well. 

• Habari Asubuhi.Good morning. 

• Lala Salama.  Good night or sleep well.

• Kwa Heri.  Goodbye. 

• Asante.  Thank you. 

• Asante Sana.  Thank you very much. 

• Karibu.  Welcome or you’re welcome.

Elsewhere in Tanzania 

We spent four weeks traveling across Tanzania. The country is a remarkable destination for adventure seekers, nature lovers and cultural enthusiasts. Escape to beaches and spice gardens on the tropical island of Zanzibar or explore the country’s vast national parks and wildlife on a Tanzanian Safari.

For Next Time…

Though we don’t expect to hike Mt. Kilimanjaro again, we learned about Tanzania’s Mt. Meru, another hike-able volcano in the Arusha National Park. It’s the country’s second tallest mountain, after Mt. Kilimanjaro. Its summit reaches heights of 4,566 meters (14,980 feet). It can be hiked in 3-4 days. The route combines elements of a safari with bush camping and mountain hiking. 

Tanzanian Safari

Tanzanian Safari

Tanzania is the land of safaris and African adventures! Its vast nature reserves and national parks are home to scenic landscapes teeming with wildlife, herds of animals and endangered species. We spent four days roadtripping on a safari across the country visiting Tarangire National Park, The Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater. 

Tarangire National Park 

Tarangire National Park is a popular safari park home to parades of African elephants and ancient baobab trees. We joined a half day game drive through the park on the first day of our safari. 

Tarangire Landscapes.  Dusty roads lead through the scenic landscapes of Tarangire National Park. The terrain is defined by massive baobab trees, umbrella shaped acacia trees, dry grasslands and towering termite mounds. The baobab trees are easily recognizable by their massive trunks and large branching limbs. Some live to be several hundred years old.

Wild Animals.  The Tarangire is plentiful with African animals and wildlife. Small herds of wildebeests, zebra and giraffes gathered together to feed on trees and grasses. A pair of cape buffalo raised their heads from the bush, showing off their massive horns. Warthogs kneeled in the savanna, nibbling on dry grasses as they scurried around. Hornbill toucans and vibrant starlings hopped between tree branches and fluttered away. Waterback antelopes gazed back at us through our binoculars. Baboons and mischievous monkeys sat along roadsides and picnic areas waiting for opportunities to steal food. 

African Elephants.  Large parades of African elephants roam freely around the Tarangire. Soon after entering the park, we spotted over 20 elephants pulling down branches from acacia trees and feeding on grasses. We spotted a second herd marching through a valley. Tiny infants walked slowly alongside parents with lengthy tusks as one. They later crossed a river as we watched from a picnic area at lunch. We parked along the dirt road as a third parade crossed in front of us. A dozen elephants trotted by like a slow moving stampede, raising their trunks and rocking their heads as they passed.

Twiga Campsite & Lodge.  A budget hotel with a small campground, communal restrooms, buffet restaurant and outdoor pool. Three rows of Safari style tents line the lawn in front of the hotel. Inside are Massai woven bed cushions and standard sleeping bags. We camped here overnight after exploring Tarangire National Park.

Serengeti National Park 

The Serengeti is one of Africa’s most famed national park’s and wildlife reserves. Its vast savannas are home to a large population of big cats, predators and African animals. We spent two days on safari in the park, camping overnight in the bush. 

Serengeti Landscapes.  Vast savannas and dry grasslands stretch across the horizon of the Serengeti, occasionally interrupted by the lone acacia tree, termite mound or Kopjes. Safari vehicles zoom down dirt roads, leaving clouds of dust in their wake. Fiery sunsets cast shades of magenta and orange across the sky as silhouettes of acacia trees contrast the horizon.

Kopjes.  Dramatic granite outcrops that rise from the savanna like an island in a sea of grass. They’re also known as “pride rocks” and serve as important habitats for big cats like lions, cheetahs and leopards. 

The Great Migration.  The Great Migration is the largest migration event on the planet. Over a million wildebeests migrate alongside hundreds of thousands of zebras and antelopes from the Serengeti to the Maasai Mara in search of food and water. We witnessed the incredible event unfold across the vast landscape. Organized lines of wildebeests snaked across the savanna, trotting and honking as they migrated. A herd passed by a pride of male lions and later crossed the crocodile infested Mara River. Mass herds of wildebeests, zebras and antelopes gathered in the savanna grazing on grasses after migrating long distances. 

Lions.  Lions rein in the Serengeti! Three greeted us just before entering the Nkuyu Gate. One patrolled the roadway, another shaded under a bridge and the third drank from a puddle beside our Land Cruiser, its orange fur and fluffy mane within reaching distance. Several lions napped under a lone acacia tree in the middle of the savanna. Four lionesses prowled through the golden grasses. A majestic lion posed for photos, its amber eyes stared back at us with a genuine fearsomeness. 

Cheetahs.  Cheetahs are one of the most beautiful and powerful animals on the savanna. We encountered a trio napping and watching the horizon for approaching prey. 

Leopards.  Leopards are one of the most difficult animals to spot on the savanna. Our guide spotted one, very well camouflaged and perched on a Kopjes. To our surprise, two cute leopard cubs appeared and began licking the larger one before walking off together.

Hyena.  A solo hyena blocked the road as night fell. It yawned, showing off its pointed teeth before stretching and walking off into the sunset. 

Herds & Wildlife.  Herds of impala, gazelle and zebra roam freely across the dry plaines of the Serengeti. Rarer sights were wildebeest and hartebeest, having migrated on their annual migration to the Maasai Mara in Kenya. Towers of giraffe and parades of elephants march across the savanna in search of food and water. Though more difficult to see, small game like warthogs, jackals and mongoose forage in the low grasses. 

Seronera River.  A narrow river flowing through the south eastern Serengeti. Its lush banks are an oasis for Nile crocodile and large families of bathing hippos. Hundreds of hippos soak with their heads and backs above the water, huffing, puffing and snorting after fully submerging. A rare sight was an 8 ft long python slowly slithering across the ground not far from a large crocodile.

Pimbi Public Campsite.  Camping in the Serengeti is one of the most exciting way to experience the national park. The Pimbi Public Campsite is located in the middle of the Serengeti, completely exposed to the grassy plains and animals that roam them. We camped in tents for one night, arriving shortly after sunset. The cackle of hyena could be heard somewhere in the distance. The roars of lions reverberated across the savanna at night. We woke up to two leopards retuning from their hunt, climbing onto the rocks less than 300 meters from our camp.

Ngorongoro Conservation Area 

Ngorongoro is a lush conservation area famed for its volcanic caldera, large population of predators and variety of birdlife. We camped one night on the crater rim before descending into its expansive floor for a morning game drive.

The Ngorongoro Crater.  The crater is Africa’s largest caldera and the heart of the Ngorongoro Reserve. Its forested walls, grassy floor and alkaline lake is a cradle for life and host to countless species. Formed by the collapse of a prehistoric volcano, its walls tower an average of 2,000 feet above the crater floor. An observation deck looks into its vast expanse from the rim.

Lions & Cats.  Lions are the primary predator in The Ngorongoro Crater. We spotted a lioness and her three cubs walking along the roadside. A very majestic male lion with a dark mane stood in the grasses, looking across the landscape. A little serval slept in the dry grasses and morning sunlight.

Predators & Scavengers.  The Ngorongoro Crater is famed for its high concentration of predators and scavengers. A pride of several lions took down a juvenile wildebeest minutes before we reached the crater floor. The lions sat gnawing on its carcass, bones and skull. A pack of hyena surrounded the lions, waiting in the grasses for a chance at stealing scraps. Two jackals stared on as a flock of vultures flew overhead waiting for leftovers. Further into the crater, a pack of hyena feasted on a dead hippo, pulling intestines from the animal’s carcass.

Lake Magadi.  An alkaline lake in the Ngorongoro Crater home to a variety of aquatic birds like pink flamingos, blue hurons, yellow billed storks, cormorant, egrets and Egyptian Ibis flock to the lake. African crowned cranes, large ostrich, secretary birds and kori bustard forage in the surrounding grasses. Families of hippos lounge in the shallow waters while cape buffalo gather in the marshes. 

Herds of Animals.  Herds are confined to the crater year round due to its vast scale and range of ecosystems. Wildebeest, zebra, gazelle, buffalo and warthogs roam freely in the grasslands. Elephants and giraffes wander the forested crater walls and rim. 

Simba Campsite A.  A large campground on the Ngorongoro Crater Rim. It’s popular with both tenters and camper vans, offering amenities like shared kitchens, restrooms, hot showers, fire pits and a camp store. The campsite is surrounded by lush forest home to wild animals. An elephant walked along the camp’s perimeter, a herd of zebra grazed outside of our tents and a tower of giraffes sat across a distant hill. 

Good to Know.  The elevation of the crater rim sits at an average elevation of 7,500 feet above sea level. Its altitude results in cooler temperatures, especially at night. 

Maasai Village. Rural Tanzania is home to many African tribes, particularly the Maasai. They live in small communities comprised of cylindrical mud huts topped with conical thatched roofs. Many wear traditional robes, distinguished by their color and pattern. Maasai men shepherd cows, goats and sheep between fields. The women and children operate roadside stands selling woven baskets, bush honey and safari style paintings. There is a high concentration of Maasai villages on the route through Ngorongoro to the Serengeti.

Suricata Safaris

We booked our 4 day, 3 night group camping safari in Tarangire National Park, The Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater with Suricata Safarison Viator. It included all park fees, camping equipment, meals, water and transportation in a 4x4 Safari Land Cruiser. 

Where to Stay

The city of Arusha is a hub for Tanzanian safaris, located within a few hours of some of the country’s most famed reserves and national parks. Its common to stay here for at least a day before and after a safari.

Serengeti Villa.  A boutique eco hotel in Arusha with tropical gardens, safari style rooms and tribal furniture. The villa serves delicious Swahili meals and local beers, hosts nightly bonfires and offers services like laundry and luggage storage. Our only regret was not staying longer. Reserve on Booking.

Location Specifics

When to Visit.  The dry season, from July to October, is the best time of year to visit Tanzania for a safari.

Dust.  The savanna can be extremely dusty during the dry season. Bring wipes to clean off with and wear clothes you don’t mind getting dirty. 

Binoculars.  Being a pair of good binoculars to view distant animals and close up details of nearby game. We bought a pair of Nikon Monarch M5 with 10x42 magnification. 

Camera.  Phones can great for social media photos however, a professional camera is much better for detailed and close up photos. 

Tipping.  Plan to tip safari guides between $10-$20 USD per day per person.

Swahili Words & Phrases 

Swahili is the local language in Tanzania. We learned several basic words and phrases from our guides. 

• Jambo. A formal greeting meaning hello. 

• Mambo.  An informal greeting meaning hello or how are you?

• Poa or Poa Poa. A common response to Mambo, meaning good or well. 

• Habari Asubuhi.Good morning. 

• Lala Salama.  Good night or sleep well.

• Kwa Heri.  Goodbye. 

• Asante.  Thank you. 

• Asante Sana.  Thank you very much. 

• Karibu.  Welcome or you’re welcome.

• Hakuna Matata.  The phrase made world famous by the Lion King. It’s a real Swahili phrase meaning no worries or no problems.

Elsewhere in Tanzania 

We spent four weeks traveling across Tanzania. The country is a remarkable destination for adventure seekers, nature lovers and cultural enthusiasts. Hike to the summit of Africa’s tallest mountain, Mt. Kilimanjaro or escape to beaches and spice gardens on the tropical island of Zanzibar.

For Next Time…

We spent four days in the back of a Toyota Land Cruiser exploring Tanzania’s savannas, craters and national parks. Next time we return, we plan to experience a safari on foot and by air.

Walking Safari.  Guided safaris led on foot by rangers lead visitors through the Arusha National Park to see wildlife up close and personal. Unlike multi day safaris, the park offers full and half day experiences. 

Hot Air Ballon Safari.  Hot air balloons float through the early morning skies of the Serengeti. Once in the park, tour operators offer aerial safaris of its vast grasslands and kopjes. 

Kenyan Safari

Kenyan Safari 

Kenya’s protected reserves and sprawling savannas are home to African wildlife, migratory animals and endangered species, making the biodiverse country a classic destination to experience an unforgettable safari. Large herds move in unison as the fragrant scent of grasses wafts across the savanna. Majestic animals graze peacefully while predators stalk their prey and birds fly overhead.

We crossed the landscape on a six day safari, participating in multiple game drives and guided nature walks through the African bush with Explorers Wild Adventures. We spotted Africa’s “Big Five,” witnessed The Great Migration and visited a Maasai village to learn about indigenous culture and traditions. The safari included parks fees, transportation, camp accommodations and all meals.

Maasai Mara National Park

The Maasai Mara is one of Africa’s largest wild game reserves, sight of The Great Migration and home to endangered species, herds of animals, ferocious predators and seemingly endless savannas. We spent two days on Safari in the park witnessing some of nature’s most impressive sights and wildlife. 

The Great Migration.  The Great Migration is the largest migration event on the planet. Over a million wildebeests migrate alongside hundreds of thousands of zebras and antelopes from the Serengeti to the Maasai Mara in search of food and water. We witnessed the incredible event unfold across the vast landscape. Organized lines of wildebeests snaked across the savanna, trotting and honking as they migrated. A herd passed by a pride of male lions and later crossed the crocodile infested Mara River. Mass herds of wildebeests, zebras and antelopes gathered in the savanna grazing on grasses after migrating long distances. 

Predators & Big Cats.  The Maasai Mara is known for its high concentration of predators and big cats, especially during the Great Migration. Lions were a common sight while cheetahs and leopards were more illusive. 

• Lions. Lions are a familiar sight in the Maasai Mara. We spotted several pairs enjoying afternoon cat naps and watched as a pride rest under a tree as a herd of wildebeests migrated passed. The devoured carcass of a buffalo alerted us to another pride. Through our binoculars, we spotted a male, a cub and several lionesses prowling on distant rocks. 

• Cheetahs & Leopards.  A beautiful cheetah sat on a small hill overlooking the landscape. It groomed its orange black spotted fur while twirling its tail and looking around. Another quickly trotted across the savanna into the tree covered highlands. A well hidden leopard napped in the shade of a grassy riverbank, waking up briefly to change position.

African Elephants.  Parades of African Elephants grazed in the grasses, drank from watering holes and rolled in mud puddles of the Maasai Mara. Two parades marched by allowing for an up close encounter. One of the babies even wanted to play, running towards us and waving its trunk before trotting back to its mama. The remaining adults and calves joined a larger group gathering in the distant plains.

Big & Small Game.  We drove deeper into the Maasai Mara with our windows ajar and roof hatch opened. We spotted lone animals and herds of impala, zebra, wildebeest, hartebeest, antelopes and buffalo grazing in the savannas. Giraffes stood majestically in the bush, ostriches ruffled their feathers, jackals scavenged for food, warthogs scurried through the grasses, baboons stared off mischievously and Ugandan Crowned Cranes strutted along the roadside.

Birds of Prey.  Vultures and storks circle in the sky and nest in trees waiting to scavenge on leftover remains. They descended on a freshly killed wildebeest as a pair of lions rested in the distance. The birds ferociously ripped apart the carcass, bloodying their faces in the carnage.

Mara River.  The Mara River is one of the most dangerous parts of the Maasai Mara. A heavily armed ranger led us along its banks on a bush walk. Families of hippopotamuses bathed in the water, lifting their faces and backs above the surface, occasionally coming ashore. Nile crocodiles, both large and small, sunbathed along its banks while waiting for their next meal.

Guides.  A guide is needed to visit The Maasai Mara. One was included with our multi day safari tour. 

Massai Village Walk 

The Massai are a tribal group native to southern Kenya. We walked through a small village with a chief’s son learning more about their culture, traditions, way of life and reliance on cattle. The tribe wears brightly patterned shawls and colorful beaded accessories to distinguish between families. Men and women each performed traditional dances, inviting us to participate. We toured a Maasai house, like all others in the village, it’s made from clay and cow dung supported by olive wood. The snug interior is compartmentalized into three small bedrooms and a kitchen. Once the village walk ended, women displayed handmade beaded jewelry and wooden animal carvings for sale.

Lake Nakuru National Park 

Lake Nakuru is a salt water lake in the Kenyan highlands famed for its array of aquatic bird species, endangered rhino and giraffes populations. 

Southern White Rhino.  The reserve surrounding Lake Nakuru is home to a growing population of Southern White Rhinos. We spotted several on our safari around the lake. A mother and calf stood together in the bushes, a group of three grazed in the a field and a full crush of six rested in the distance grasses.

Birdwatching.  Hundreds of migratory birds flock to Lake Nakuru. We spotted a flamboyant of lesser flamingos, giant white pelicans hunting, Egyptian geese, cormorants and various types of storks. Flocks of guinea fowl are commonly spotted scurrying in the park’s roadside bushes. 

Nubian Giraffe.  Lake Nakuru is home to about 65 Nubian Giraffes. There are less than 1,400 of the critically endangered species remaining in the wild. We observed at least half of the park’s population as they strutted through fields and grazed on tall trees. 

Wildlife Spotting.  Lake Nakuru is home to variety of wildlife. Large herds of water buffalo, impalas, grand gazelle and zebras are common sights. Groups of warthogs appeared from their dens, chasing each other around and grazing on grasses. Troops of baboons patrol the roadsides, often trotting after impalas encroaching on their territory. Hyena lurk in the grasses while jackals slink between bushes. 

Makalia Falls.  A 10 meter tall waterfall spilling over a rocky cliff into a river pool. The water was a rich chocolaty brown color due to recent strong rains. 

Climate Change.  Lake Nakuru used to be known for its millions of pink flamingos, accounting for a third of the world’s population. In recent years, flooding has reduced the salinity of the lake and a majority of the flamingos have migrated elsewhere.

Guides.  Lake Nakuru can can be visited without a guide or 4x4 vehicle. We visited with a guide, included in our multi day safari. 

Lake Naivasha

Lake Naivasha is a high altitude freshwater lake home to native hippos, aquatic birds and wildlife relocated from the Maasai Mara. We took a boat safari on its waters and walking safari along its shores. 

Lake Naivasha Boat Safari.  A tranquil ride across the Lake Naivasha allowed us to spot wild hippos and aquatic birds. The hippos lounged in the shallows near shore, lifting the head above the surface for air before fully submerging. For safety, we kept a distance of 50 to 100 feet. The lake is full of bird life like nesting cormorants, king fishers, hamerkops, sacred ibises, vibrant starlings, great white pelicans and fish eagles. The lake is commercialized with eco-resorts, hotels, summer cottages and campgrounds tracing its shoreline. Locals wade in the shallows fishing for tilapia and other lake fish. 

Lake Naivasha Walking Safari.  A wildlife reserve encompasses the shores of Lake Naivasha. It’s home to animals found in the Maasai Mara like waterbuck antelope, impala, zebra, wildebeest and giraffe. A walking safari brought us up close to the animals as they grazed. We listened as the exotic sounds of birds sang out around us. The animals are not allowed to be touched or fed in order to keep them wild. Most are even skittish and stray away from humans despite their habitualization.  

Amboseli National Park 

Amboseli National Park is famed for its large population of African elephants, wild game and dramatic landscapes. Its wetlands create a lush oasis and shallow lake visited by elephants and migratory birds. Wild game graze in vast lowlands covered in bush and Acacia trees. Dust devils spiral into the sky across the dry savanna. Clouds completely obscured views of Mt Kilimanjaro. 

African Elephants.  African elephants frequently travel in large groups across the Amboseli. Several parades comprised of the smallest of calfs and the largest of matriarchs marched in lines across the savanna towards a lush oasis. By the mid afternoon, well over one hundred had met to graze, bathe and socialize. A parade of the gentle giants passed closely by us ripping up grass with their trunks, sporting pairs of large white tusks and flapping their giant ears. We even spotted one of the park’s famed “super tuskers,” recognizable by their massive tusks. 

Game Spotting.  The expanses of the Amboseli are thriving with all kinds of African animals. Towers of giraffes grazed on trees. Small herds of zebras, wildebeest and gazelle roamed freely. A trio of fearsome lionesses lay in the grasses as cautious zebras passed by. A pair of jackals chased away an impala. A serval sprinted quickly past. Ostriches strut across the savanna like giant feather dusters. Warthogs scurried together in the bush. Two sleepy hyena woke from their den to look around. 

Wetlands.  The wetlands of the Amboseli are a gathering place and a habitat for birdlife. At their center is a mirror-like lake surrounded by lush grasses where flocks of pink and white flamingos gather. Storks, herons, cranes and hamerkops hunt for fish in narrow streams. Hippos bathe in watering holes and lounge along the muddy shores.

Noomotio Observation Point.  A panoramic lookout on an extinct volcano with views of the wetland, savanna and on a clear day, Mt. Kilimanjaro. Wildebeest and zebra roam freely around the slopes while elephants march in the distance. A short trail leads to a picnic area at the top with beautiful starlings and canaries chirping in the bushes.

Guides.  The Amboseli can can be visited without a guide or 4x4 vehicle. We visited with a guide, included in our multi day safari. 

Safari Camps & Hotels 

We spent the 6 days of our safari, migrating between campsites and and hotels nearby the national parks and nature preserves. 

Miti Mingi Eco Camp.  A safari camp on the edge of the Maasai Mara National Park with a few dozen walk in style tents. Each tent is equipped with beds, mosquito nets, electricity, running water and restrooms. A dining hall offers buffet meals, local beers and Kenyan tea. We stayed here the first two nights of our safari. 

Hunters Luxury Manor Amboseli.  A luxurious safari camp with spacious canvas tents, an outdoor swimming pool, a communal dining area and bon fire pit. The tent’s interiors are furnished wooden furniture, mosquito netted beds, cow hide rugs and a free standing soaking tub. Outside is a cozy patio and an outdoor shower. The manor offers full room and board. 

Nyati Safari Camp.  A budget safari camp near the entrance of Amboseli National Park. They offer a range of accommodations from motel style rooms to semi luxurious tents. Buffet breakfasts and dinners are provided along with packed lunches for full day game drives. There are evening bonfires and morning nature walks. 

Buraha Zenoni Hotel & Resort.  A hotel nearby Lake Nakuru with decent rooms, a roof top restaurant and bar, an outdoor pool and evening Maasai dance performances. Their buffet meals included a mix of Kenyan cuisine and western dishes. We stayed here for one night while exploring lake. 

Safari Tips

4x4 Vehicle.  Only book a safari with a 4x4 Land Cruiser or Jeep and pop up roof. They’re the only vehicles that can handle the rugged terrain. Safari vans are slow and can’t access more treacherous parts of the parks. 

Binoculars.  Being a pair of good binoculars to view distant animals and close up details of nearby game. We bought a pair of Nikon Monarch M5 with 10x42 magnification. 

Camera.  Phone can great for social media photo however, a professional camera is much better for detailed and close up photos. 

Wear Layers.  It’s cool in the mornings and evening but warm during the day. Plan to easily add or subtract layers. 

Dust.  The savanna can be extremely dusty during the dry season. Bring wipes to clean off with and wear clothes you don’t mind getting dirty. 

Tipping.  Plan to tip Safari guides between $10-$20 USD per day per person. 

When to Visit.  One of the best times of year to visit the Maasai Mara is during the Great Migration between July and August. Millions of migrating animals cross the savanna in search of food and water while attracting predators. This coincides with Kenya’s winter. The temperatures are often cooler and day are cloudy.

Swahili Words & Phrases 

English is commonly spoken across Kenya. Many people also speak Swahili, an East African language. 

Jambo.  A common greeting. When someone says Jambo, respond back with Jambo as a sign of mutual respect. 

Mambo.  A more informal version of Jambo. It’s often said amongst friends. 

Karibu.  A greeting meaning welcome or used as you’re welcome.

Asante.  Thank you. 

Asante Sana.  Thank you very much. 

Hakuna Matata.  To quote the Lion King, it means “no worries” or no troubles. It is a genuine Swahili phrase though mostly said between locals and travelers. 

East Java, Indonesia

East Java, Indonesia

Situated along the Pacific Ring of Fire, East Java is the land of dramatic landscapes. Fuming volcanos, picturesque waterfalls, verdant jungles and grassy savannas cover the region. East Java’s fertile landscape is a hub for agriculture. Farmers cultivate lush rice terraces while trucks carry loads of harvested sugarcane, cassava, bananas and coconuts. Cities and villages offer a glimpse into Indonesian culture. Chaotic scenes of moto bikes speed down two lane streets. The Islamic call to prayer echos from domed mosques. Warungs serve affordable local bites while cafes brew Javanese coffee. 

Tumpak Sewu Waterfall

Tumpak Sewu is a massive waterfall formed by dozens of streams spilling over a crescent shaped canyon into the river below. The lush canyon is covered in moss, ferns, bamboo and palm trees. Semeru Mountain rises through the clouds in the background as mist blows in all directions. It’s Java’s largest waterfall and a true natural marvel. 

The waterfall is viewable from an observation deck at the canyon rim and from the riverbed at its base. A trail leads to the base following a series of makeshift staircases and metal ladders. They cross over flowing streams, small waterfalls and through the river. From the base, the canyon and waterfall surrounded us like a panorama as cooling mist drenched us. 

Goa Tetes Cave.  A cave beyond a waterfall with dripping rock formations and a smaller waterfall within. It’s reachable by following a trail down the canyon from Tumpak Sewu Waterfall. The trail is scenic, with several small waterfalls pouring over the verdant canyon’s walls. 

Wisata View Kapas Biru.  A panoramic viewpoint from the top of a small waterfall, looking across a river canyon towards another waterfall. The opposite waterfall streams from a crevice in the crescent shaped cliff, surrounded by lush jungle on all sides. 

Good to Know. Be prepared to get soaking wet! Come with a change of clothes for after the hike. Bring or rent water shoes for 20K Rp. 

Getting Here.  The waterfall is located 2 hours from Malang. We booked a driver and guide with Smartway Indonesia Tours on Viator to bring us here and back.

Ijen Volcano 

Ijen Volcano is famed for its electric blue flames, turquoise lagoon and sulphur mines. Sunrise hikes starting in the middle of the night lead to its active crater and picturesque caldera. 

Ijen Volcano Hike.  The hike up the volcano’s slopes and into its crater begins at 2am when the park’s gates open. The wide trail is moderately steep but levels out just before the descent into the crater. The narrow trail into the crater meanders down rocky steps and loose gravel. The smell of sulphuric gases becomes intense without a gas mask. The trail can take 1-2 hours depending on speed and position amongst other hikers. 

Ijen Blue Flames.  At the base of the crater between plumes of sulphuric gas are the electric blue flames. A small viewing area offers close up access to them. The flames seem to flow and dance down the rocky hill, sometimes jumping along the ground. Their characteristic blue color is a result of the hot burning sulphuric gases released by the volcano. 

Pro Tip.  Avoid using a flash light around the blue flames. It’s better to experience their glow without excess light. Politely ask others to do the same. 

Ijen Crater Lake.  The crater rim offers picturesque views of turquoise colored lake and sunrise. The viewpoint is reachable after a 30 to 45 minute hike up from the blue flames. As daylight breaks, the bright colored lagoon at the bottom of the crater comes into view. Gases fume from the volcanic vents as clouds roll over the lush hillside. The sun light illuminates nearby volcanos and colors the sky in a combination of pastel tones. Alternatively, the crater lake is viewable from the sulphur mines near the blue flames. This is a good spot to stay if unable to reach the rim for sunrise in time.

Sulphur Mines.  The volcanic vents surrounding the lagoon are hand mined for sulphur. Local miners live on the volcano under hazardous conditions to harvest the mineral, referred to as “the devil’s gold.” Vibrant yellow deposits are scattered across the ground and collected in baskets lining the trail. We visited on Satu Suro, the Javanese Islamic New Year. It’s one of the few days that miners take to rest. As a result, our guide introduced us to his father, Arifin, an experienced miner and local legend. He showed us the capsule sized space he sleeps in and a brief documentary about his work. Watch on Coconuts TV. 

Hire A Guide.  Though it’s possible to visit on your own, we visited with a guide for the additional safety and ease of coordination. We booked with East Java Paradise Travel on Viator.

Be First.  3,000 people are permitted to enter the volcano daily, often resulting in a bottle neck of hikers along the trail. Furthermore, the area around the blue flames is very small. The best way to enjoy seeing them safely and unobstructed is to wait at the gate early and hike ahead of everyone else.

Medical Check.  Prior to beginning the hike, local officials require all visitors to undergo a brief medical exam, checking blood pressure, blood oxygen levels and temperature. 

Gas Masks.  A proper fitting gas mask is strongly recommended. Rent one or make sure it’s included with your tour. The volcanic fumes are toxic and highly concentrated around the blue flames.  

Proper Gear.  Wear layers for the cooler nighttime temperatures and shoes with good treads. Being a headlamp or flashlight to see. Hiking poles are helpful but not necessary. 

Mount Bromo

Mount Bromo is one of East Java’s most active volcanos! Its ancient crater rim surrounds volcanic cinder cones and a billowing caldera. The island’s tallest volcano, Semeru Mountain, towers in the background erupting with frequent puffs of black ash.

Mount Bromo Sunrise.  A popular time to visit Mount Bromo is for the sunrise. Tours from Malang starts around midnight. It’s followed by a 3 hour drive to the volcano village and a transfer to a 4x4 vintage Toyota Land Cruiser. The final hour leads across the sand sea and up the north crater rim to the lookout points. We sat below “King Kong Hill.”  There are cafes selling coffees, noodles in cups and renting heavy coats. It wasn’t the clearest morning. The sunrise was blocked by clouds and the volcanos were covered in a blanket of fog. Their still visible silhouettes had a mystical view. Mount Bromo constantly billowed out clouds of white smoke while Semeru Mountain erupted with puffs of black ash. 

The Sand Sea.  The Sand Sea is the black sand lava field surrounding the cinder cones within the ancient crater’s walls. Hundreds of colorful Land Cruisers park here while visitors walk or ride pony’s across the landscape to Mt. Bromo’s smoldering crater. Passing Mount Batok, a shrub covered cinder cone, we reached the blackened base of Mount Bromo. Locals sell colorful bouquets of dried flowers, which any people leave as offerings to the volcano. 

Mount Bromo Crater Rim.  A 250 step staircase leads up Mount Bromo’s crater walls to the rim. The rim offers views into the fuming vent of the volcano. Hissing steam and gases roar from within the crater. Black scared rocks and bright yellow sulphur deposits cover its steep walls. Remnants of offerings, mostly flowers and cooked rice were visible along the steep inner slops. 

Getting Here.  We hired a guide with round trip transportation from Malang. It was the easiest way to see the volcanos. Book with Cheap Bromo on Viator. 

Good to Know. Wear layers and warm clothes. The temperature is often cold in the early morning at the high elevation. Remove layers as the day warms up.

Baluran National Park

One of the lesser known natural sights in East Java is the Baluran National Park. It encompasses landscapes like volcanos, savanna, forest, mangroves and beaches, each home a variety of wild animals and endemic species. 

Bekol Savanna.  A vast grassland with bushes and broadleaf trees home to heards of wild animals like buffalo, deer and monkeys. It sits against the towering backdrop of the Baluran and Ijen Volcanos. With binoculars and camera in hand, we spotted wildlife. Large buffalo stood covered in mud as they grazed in the grasslands. Hundreds of deer gathered together. Fawns chased each other, stopping to breast feed from their mothers. Bucks spared while others feed, lifting their heads above the grass to reveal a crown of shrubs stuck in their antlers. 

Evergreen Forest.  A section of the park with vibrant green foliage supported by an underground river. A road leads through its dense canopy in route to the savanna. 

Bama Beach.  A natural beach with a coral sand shore, hardened black lava flows, a mangrove forest and tide pools. Troops of wild monkeys scavenger for shell fish during low tide. 

Coastal Fringe.  A lush forested zone between the savanna and coast. Its trees are home to hornbill toucans, colorful peacocks and monkeys. We watched a family of Javan Lutung (ebony monkeys), including a mother with her orange haired infant, jump from tree to tree. 

Book a Safari.  One of the best ways to visit is on Safari Tour. We booked  half day safari with Epic Escapes Indonesia on Get Your Guide.

Indonesian Cuisine 

Nasi Goreng.  Vegetable fried rice, an Indonesian staple commonly served on menus around the country. It’s a popular breakfast dish.

Mi Goreng.  The same as nasi goreng, except made with noodles instead of rice. 

Gado Gado.  Lightly steamed or boiling vegetables served with a spicy peanut sauce. 

Batagor.  Fried banana, tempe or tofu stuffed with glass noodles and veggies. It’s a very common street food dish in East Java and eaten for breakfast or a mid day snack. 

Tempeh.  Fermented and spouted soybeans formed into a protein patty or block. A common preparation is Tempeh Lada Hitam, tempeh cooked in a black pepper sauce.

Sayur Lodeh.  A spiced coconut stew cooked with tempeh, eggplant, tomatoes and green beans. 

Bintang.  Indonesia’s national beer. It’s a light beer perfect for the perpetually hot afternoons and evenings.

Sambal.  Indonesians love spicy food. The source of the heat is often sambal, a minced mixture of Thai chili peppers, shallots and garlic.

Where to Stay

We hopped around East Java every couple of days staying in Malang, Banyuwangi and Surabaya. 

Kosasih 1919.  A small bed and breakfast in central Banyuwangi with spacious rooms, lush gardens and a communal kitchen. The hosts and their traditional breakfasts were the highlights! Reserve on Booking.

Malang City Point Apartments.  A simple and cozy two bedroom apartment located in the Malang City Point Mall. The mall was great for grocery shopping, local bites and cafes. Book on Airbnb. 

Cordia Hotel Surabaya Airport.  During our travel days into and out of Surabaya, we stayed the night at a  airport hotel. It’s located in terminal 1 with retro rooms and views of the runway. The hotel has its own terrace coffee bar and includes breakfast. Reserve on Booking.

Getting Around 

Grab or Gojek.  The two competing taxi apps are Grab and Gojek. Both offer affordable rides getting around within and between cities. Inner city rides range from $1 to $10. Longer distances, such as Surabaya to Malang cost around $40 and take 1 hour 30 minutes. 

KAI Trains.  East Java has an efficient and affordable train system with routes leading to destinations across the island. We booked tickets traveling between Malang, Banyuwangi and Surabaya. Tickets cost less than $5 each for Economy Class and $22 for Executive Class. Transit time takes between 6-7 hours with multiple trains leaving daily. Tickets can be reserved online with Tiket Com as far as two months in advance.

Location Specifics

When to Visit. Visit during the peak of the dry season, in mid June. The weather was sunny and bright most days with the occasional afternoon storm.

Shoes Off Indoors.  Like many places in Asia, it’s proper to remove shoes before entering home or some shops. 

Islamic Customs.  Indonesia is an Islamic country. The call to prayer is present in most places. Modesty and respect in all forms are the most important customs to follow.

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Indonesian laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Elsewhere in Indonesia 

We’ve visited to Indonesia twice during our travels, exploring different islands across the archipelago. Experience the picturesque landscapes and wildlife of The Komodo Islands. Visit ancient temples and wander through the lush rice terraces of Ubud, Bail. Take in the tropical atmosphere while lounges on the beaches of Coastal Bali. 

For Next Time… 

There is so much to see in East Java and Indonesia! We are dreaming of returning for a third time to this scenic country and have a list of sights left to experience. 

Mt. Bromo.  We plan to spend a few days around Mt. Bromo and its active volcanos. Ideally, we would visit on a crystal clear day to see the landscape in full detail unobscured by fog. 

Multi-Day Volcano Hike.  With dozens of volcanos to choose from. We plan to hike and camp overnight on one of Java’s volcanos. Mt. Semeru, the largest volcano on the island has several routes and campsites to choose from. 

West Bali National Park.  From Banyuwangi, we would love to re-visit Bali and explore the island’s western peninsula and national park home to endemic birds, coral reefs and wild animals. 

Prambanan Temple.  A 9th century Hindu temple in Central Java. It’s the second largest after Angkor Wat. Its intcate structures and towers are carved from black lava rocks.

Rwandan Roadtrip

Rwandan Roadtrip

Rwanda is a small East African country known as the land of 1,000 hills. It’s home to lush farmland, mountainous rainforests, sprawling savannas, great lakes and volcanos. Encounters with endangered primates like gorillas, chimpanzees and golden monkeys attract eco-tourists from across the world. The country’s cultural identity and history are on display at museums, galleries and memorials. We spent a week road-tripping across the country, experiencing its natural beauty, extraordinary animals and local culture. 

Observe the Local Culture

One of the most eye-opening parts about driving in Rwanda was observing the local culture. People work hard cultivating farmland and transporting goods to markets in rural villages. The roadsides are consistently buzzing with people. Women carry bunches of bananas, baskets of produce and sacs of goods on their heads. Men ride and push bicycles overloaded with bundles of sugarcane, silver canisters of milk and bags of goods. Children fill jerry cans with fresh water from wells and roll wheels with sticks for leisure. 

Kigali, Rwanda 

Kigali is the vibrant capital city of Rwanda. Its modern neighborhoods and densely populated communities sprawl across the landscape’s rolling hills. Their warm tones glow by day and white lights twinkle by night. It’s a verdant place with palm lined boulevards, flowering trees and manicured bushes. The country’s culture is expressed through its people, goods, cuisine and history. Shops sell handmade crafts and African goods. Seasonally farmed produce is sold at local markets. Women dress in colorfully patterned clothes. Restaurants serve Rwandan cuisine while cafes brew Rwandan coffee. The people look towards the future while remembering the 1994 Genocide. 

See the Sights  

Kigali Genocide Memorial.  A memorial and historical museum dedicated to the victims of the 1994 genocide. The museum is organized by section. It teaches about the root causes and colonial divisions that lead to the genocide. It details the history and atrocities prior to and during. It honors the victims and those that stood up to terror as it ensued. It explains the steps post genocide to heal Rwanda and hold accountable those responsible. Lastly, it calls on upon humanity act to prevent future genocides. Mass graves containing the remains of a quarter million people murdered during the genocide are laid to rest here. They’re surrounded by symbolic gardens dedicated to the victims. More than 200 other memorial sights across the country serve as a stark reminder of the atrocities. 

Pro Tip. Pay for an audio guide to learn more from the memorial and museum.

Belgian Peacekeepers Memorial.  A memorial for 10 Belgian peacekeepers killed during the early hours of the 1994 Genocide. The bullet riddled building is the sight of the massacre. It is preserved and partially converted in a museum recounting the timeline of the tragedy. A stone monument honors and remembers the peacekeepers live.  Entrance is by donation. 

Inema Arts Gallery.  A small arts center and gallery with pieces made by East African and Rwandan artists. Many of the works explore cultural identity, ancestry and heritage. Several pieces are made using, Bark Cloth, the outer layer of the ficus tree. The gallery also features traditional wooden masks, furniture and sculptures. 

Kigali Car Free Zone.  A walking street and plaza lined with kiosks and shops selling Rwandan handicrafts and Rwandan street food. There is no shortage of carved wooden gorillas and similar themed objects like chess sets, walking sticks and furniture. Merchants sell African masks, woven baskets, cow hide drums, colorful handmade jewelry, home decor, patterned clothing and culturally inspired paintings. Cafes serve cups of Rwandan coffee, croissants, chapati rolls and samosas. 

Biryogo Car Free Food Street.  A painted walking street lined with dozens of Rwandan, Arabian and South Asian restaurants. Tables, chairs and umbrellas flood the street as hosts advertise and compete for business. It’s a hyper local spot to taste Rwandan cuisine and regional flavors. We ate at Visit Rwanda, a restaurant serving a range of local dishes and fresh fruit juices. We ordered the Nile perch fish brochettes, vegetarian imvange amashaza, spiced rice pilau, tree tomato and passion fruit juices. Visit on Saturday night for the liveliest experience.  

Good to Know.  Most restaurants are cash only. Vegetarian versions of local dishes are hard to come by. The street is in the Arab Quarter, resultantly, alcohol sales are forbidden. 

Kimironko Market.  Kigali’s central marketplace is a hub for locals and affordable goods. Inside a dimly lit yellow shed is a bustling farmers market with towering piles of vegetables and produce. It took our eyes a few minutes to adjust before truly appreciating the vast selections. Barrels overflow with dried beans and grains. Tables are covered with heaps of carefully stacked fruits and vegetables. Leafy greens and herbs blur into a singular mass. Bunches of bananas and plantains rest at the end of aisles. The smell of dirt wafts from the potatoes and root vegetables. Friendly vendors greeted us with “hello customer, buy something?” The building is surrounded by red dirt roads and stands selling miscellaneous goods like clothes, shoes, furniture, hardware and fabrics.

Mount Kigali Forest.  A forested mountain in the center of Kigali with nature trails, wild velvet monkeys and partial city views. Dirt roads lead up its hillside through local communities to the entrance of the forest. Unmarked trails weave through the forest while city views are visible from the dirt road between it and the communities below. 

Getting Here.  Follow KN229 Street to reach the forest. The steep and rocky street is lined vendors selling home grown produce and charcoal. People were curious about us and very friendly, often smiling in response to us saying Muraho, hello in Kinyarwanda. 

Good to Know. The top of the mountain has a field with communications towers and a military base. We wandered here but were turned around by soldiers. It’s best to avoid.

Volcanos National Park

Volcanos National Park is the last remaining habitat for the endangered Silverback Gorillas and Golden Monkeys. The park is covered in a crest of tree covered volcanos, straddling the boarders of Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Eco hotels are built between farmland just outside of the park. The Rwanda Development Board offers eco tours to see the primates in their natural habitat. They’re highly protected and require an advance permit to visit. 

Golden Monkey Trekking.  The Golden Monkeys are an endangered species native to the Volcano National Park. They live in the forested lowlands surrounding the volcanos and feed on endemic patches of bamboo. Just over 3,000 golden monkeys remain in the wild. Our guides tracked a troop of 70 to an area along the boarder of the park. We spent over an hour observing them in their natural habitat. Their cute and puffy faces glimpsed at us spying on them. They jumped between bamboo stalks and nibbled on leaves. They showed off their golden backs while grooming each other. 

Good to Know.  We were required to wear medical masks to prevent spread of disease. Given their border location, trackers and armed guards followed us for added security. 

Gorilla Naming Place.  A large thatched monument of a family of Gorillas. The largest gorilla’s hands are outstretched, creating a platform for photos. Behind is a replica village with three thatched huts.

Buhanga Eco Park.  A historical sight used to anoint the past kings of Rwanda. Inside the forested park are moss covered lava rock walkways and platforms. They lead to a small cave where the heir to the throne would descend for the anointment ritual. Servants would cleanse him with water and leaves from the forest. He would be declared king upon exiting the cave. The park is only accessible by permit and guide from the Rwanda Development Board. 

Nyungwe Forest National Park

Nyungwe Forest National Park is a tropical rainforest in the high hills of Rwanda. Its lush canopy is home to 20 perfect of Africa’s primates including endangered chimpanzees. We spent a couple days here exploring the park and watching for wildlife. 

Kivu Belt Road.  The single road through the forest and between its visitor centers. It’s a hub for roadside wildlife spotting. We saw chimpanzees, olive baboons, forest antelopes, L'Hoest's and blue monkeys. The road is heavily patrolled by the military in response to conflict with neighboring Burundi and Democratic Republic of the Congo.

Uwinka Visitor Center.  A nature center in the middle of the forest with a canopy walk, zipline, coffee shop, eco hotel and hiking trails. It’s the main hub for many of the forest’s activities. 

Chimpanzee Trekking.  The Nyungwe Forest is home to a growing population of wild Chimpanzees. We trekked beneath its lush canopy to see them in their natural habitat. The sounds of birds singing and insects buzzing filled the morning air as daylight broke. Trackers led the way as we hiked trails, through the thick jungle and down steep slopes. After a couple kilometers, we spotted a family of four chimps in a towering tree. They climbed and swung between branches while feeding on berries. A baby chip stuck close to its mother while learning to climb on its own. We continued further into the jungle, spotting a tree with several more chimps nomming on its leaves. Tropical birds like hornbill toucans, colorful turacos and vibrant sunbirds appeared around is while we quietly watched. 

Pro Tip.  Ants are everywhere when trekking through the jungle. Wear hiking gaiters or long socks over your pant legs to avoid painful bites. 

Nyungwe Canopy Walk.  A series of three suspension bridges above the treetop canopy. The central bridge has panoramic views of the jungleous forest, parasol trees and layers of hilly ridges. It’s reachable from the Uwinka Visitor Center along the Igishigishigi Trail, a 2.1km loop through the forest. 

Nyungwe Night Walk.  A two hour nighttime walk through the forest to spot nocturnal animals. We trekked the Igishigishigi Trail with red lamps in hopes of seeing flying squirrels and bush babies. Unfortunately we didn’t have any luck spotting many animals outside of seeing a few bats. 

Kitabi Eco Center Hotel.  An eco lodge on the edge of Nyungwe Forest with a half dozen thatched huts and a restaurant. The huts have an authentic feeling, designed in the traditional style of the Rwandan king’s palace. The hotel and restaurant overlook steep hills and valleys planted with rows of tea. Our stay included complementary breakfast each morning: eggs, fruit and the local flat bread. We enjoyed dinner around a coal camp fire and watched European football with a group of locals. Reserve on Booking. 

Good to Know.  All trails and activities within the forest need to be accompanied by a guide. Park permits and activities can be booked and paid for in advance with Visit Nyungwe. 

Pro Tip.  Wear layers. It gets cold with temperatures ranging from high 40s F to low 60s F (5C - 15C).

King’s Palace Museum

The King’s Palace Musuem is showcases the modern and traditional homes of Rwanda’s past kings, the country’s royal cows and cultural board games. 

The Traditional Palace.  A replica of the royal tribal village. At its center is a large thatched hut made from woven and braided grasses. Its domed interior feels like an upside down basket with rooms divided by wooden columns and woven panels. The floor is layered with dried grasses and thatched rugs. A ficus bark blanket covers an elevated bedroom platform. It’s circled by a reeded fence and multiple small huts. Each surrounding hut had their own purpose such as storing milk or beer.

The Modern Palace.  A residence built in the early 20th century for the Rwandan King. It featured living quarters and formal decorated with painted fireplaces, tribal patterns, antique furniture, hunting spears and historic photographs. 

The Royal Cows.  An endangered species of cows recognizable by their disproportionately large horns. A handler sang and presented them to us like would be traditionally done for kings. We petted fully grown and adults and several month old calfs. 

Play Igisoro.  A traditional two player strategy game where opponents “eat” or compete for each other’s pieces along a pitted board. We learned to play while sipping on African Coffee. 

Getting Here.The museum is located in Nyanza, halfway between Kigali and The Nyungwe Forest. 

Coffee Culture 

The coffee culture in Rwanda is growing, both figuratively and literally! We visited a coffee farm, roastery and multiple cafes during our time here. 

African Coffee. A Rwandan style coffee made with espresso, ginger, steamed milk and occasionally chocolate.

Huye Mountain Coffee.  A coffee farm with over 7,000 trees, a processing factory, small roastery and roadside cafe. We toured the farm, learning more about the history of coffee, the farm’s organic growing methods and hand processing. Once grown and harvested, the fruits are skinned, fermented, dried and sorted into green coffee for export. The roasted coffee is only sold in Rwanda and at their cafe. We enjoyed a midafternoon caffeine fix before our drive back to Kigali. 

Places to Eat & Drink in Kigali 

Niyo Art Cafe.  An open air cafe with vibrant murals spanning the floor from the street to the interior. The dining area is decorated with patterned Rwandan textiles, sculptures, paintings and plants. Come here for coffee! 

Restaurant l’Epicurien.  A romantic restaurant serving traditional French dishes made using local Rwandan ingredients. The dining room is spread out amongst an atmospheric garden and indoor terrace. We enjoyed the Burgundy snails, a whole grilled tilapia and brochettes (skewers) of Nile Perch along with French wine.

Rwandan Cuisine 

• Ibihaza.  The national dish of Rwanda. It’s a hearty one pot stew made with pumpkin, beans, bell pepper, onions and garlic. 

• Agatogo.  A savory one pot stew made with green bananas, collared greens, spinach, tomato, bell peppers, onions and spices. It’s garnished with avocado and peanut crumble. 

• Brochettes.  Barbecued or fried skewers of meat like beef, goat, chicken or fish. 

• Imvange Amashaza.  Stewed peas mixed with potatoes, carrots, onions and spices accompanied by fresh avocado. It’s typically vegetarian. 

• Pilau.  An East African rice dish cooked with a range of warm spices like cardamom, cumin, turmeric, cinnamon and bay leaves. It’s served as a side or stand alone meal. 

• Tree Tomato.  A deep red egg shaped fruit with a tart flavor similar to raspberry. It’s eaten fresh, blended into juices and baked with pastries.  

• Ugali.  A commonly eaten white corn or cassava flour mash used to scoop stews by hand. Roll a small lump into a ball, press an indentation in the center and scoop using your right hand.  

• Chapati.  A type of roti used to scoop stews and curries by hand. They’re also used to make wraps and samosas.  

• Chips (French Fries).  A common side dish served with most meals made popular by the Belgian and French colonial influences.

Rwandan Beers

Rwanda has a growing beer culture with both traditional and modern brews. We sampled a few pints 

Banana Beer.  A traditional Rwandan drink made from banana juice, water, sugar, sorghum flour and yeast. It’s home brewed across the country. It’s often sold at local markets in small villages. 

Akarusho.  A commercial brand of banana beer. It’s described as a “sweet banana based alcoholic beverage.” It has a malty and semi sweet flavor with a hint of banana. 

Virunga.  The most popular craft beer in Rwanda. It comes in at least three variety: Silver, Gold and Mist.

• Silver.  A light and easy drinking lager. 

• Gold.  A flavorful lager with a subtle sweetness. 

• Mist.  A dark ale with a nutty and aromatic flavor. 

Where to Stay

Salama Village Kigali.  A small homestay in lush and quiet neighborhood of Kigali. Its rooms have shaded outdoor patios, access to a communal kitchen and a living room lounge. Reserve on Booking.

Driving in Rwanda

We loved driving in Rwanda due to freedom of exploration and getting to observe the local culture. It’s easy to get used to after the first day but like everywhere it has its pros and cons. 

• Pros:  Most roads double lane, smoothly paved, well maintained and illuminated at night. Cars are typically automatic. Locals drive on the right side of the road. 

• Cons:  Roadsides become congested with people carrying goods, large trucks can cause delays, motorbikes can be unpredictable. 

Traffic Cameras. Speed limits are strictly enforced by traffic cameras across the country. Permanent camera are located every few kilometers while hidden cameras are nestled in bushes daily by police.  

Refueling.  Gas station attendants refuel vehicles for you. Credit card is typically accepted for payment. 

Car Rental.  We rented our car from Rent Car Rwanda. The car was dropped off and picked up from our accommodation in Kigali. The prices are very reasonable for a 4x4 SUV with insurance included. Reservations are made through WhatsApp and can be paid by card in person. 

Getting Around Kigali 

Move.  A taxi hailing app similar to Uber or Grab. It’s specific to Rwanda and one of the best ways of getting around Kigali affordably. The app can be glitchy, with issues reaching drivers and processing payments. 

Moto Taxi.  Moto taxis are the local way of getting around. They’re readily available in groups along the roadsides.

Location Specifics

Language.  Most people in Rwanda are trilingual. They speak their mother tongue Kinyarwanda as well as French and English. Some common words and phrases are:

• Muraho (mo-rah-ho) = Hello / Bonjour

• Murakoze (moo-rah-koh-zay) = Thank you / Merci 

• Urakoze (oo-rah-koh-zeh) = Thank you / Merci 

• Murabeho (moo-rah-bay-ho) = Good bye / Au revoir

• Muryoherwe (moo-yo-heh-weh) = Enjoy your meal / Bon appetit 

Cash vs Card.  Cash is preferred by most businesses. They accept Rwandan Franc and the US Dollar. Most places will accept credit card but for a transaction fee. 

General Safety.  Kigali is one of the safest cities in Africa. People are kind, honest and respectful. We had no issues walking around by day or night. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Rwanda is one of the few African country’s where homosexuality is legal. There are no laws against discrimination and public opinion is generally unfavorable of same sex relationships. Read more on our article about LGBTQ+ Travel Safety. 

Plastic Bags.  Rwanda is serious about conservation. Plastic bags are banned across the country which strict enforcement to prevent littering. Hardly a single piece of trash litters the streets or roadsides.

The 1994 Genocide.  The genocide is a horrific and recent part of the country’s past. Treat the topic with the utmost care and respect. Avoid conversations regarding people’s ethnic groups. 

Pre-Airport Security Check.  Before entering the airport, there is a roadside security check. Passengers have to pass through metal detectors while their bags are scanned or sniffed by dogs. It’s common practice in East Africa. 

For Next Time…

Gorilla Trekking in Volcano National Park.  Traveling on a budget, we prioritized seeing Rwanda’s other primates. When we return, visiting the gorillas will be top of mind. 

Volcano Hiking.  We plan to hike at least one of the volcanoes in the Volcano National Park boarding Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo like Mount Bisoke and it’s crater lake as well and Mount Sabyinyo and the tri-boarder point. 

Lake Kivu.  Rwanda may be land locked but it’s flanked by one of Africa’s Great Lakes, Lake Kivu. Its shores are ideal for hiking, bird watching and water sports. 

Safari in Akagera National Park.  Having gone on safari in Kenya and Tanzania on our trip through East Africa, we opted out of going on safari in Rwanda. Next time we return we plant to visit Akagera National Park to see its landscapes and wild game. 

Nairobi, Kenya

Nairobi, Kenya

Nairobi is a place where urban life and the African wild meet. Kenya’s capital city is a hub for big game safaris with access to national parks and reserves. City museums feature exhibits on Maasai culture, restaurants serve local cuisine, cafes brew Kenyan coffee and markets sell East African artistry. We explored the city and ventured across the country’s rich landscapes on an unforgettable safari! 

Central Business District.  The historic heart of the city with bustling streets, roadside vendors, artisan markets, landmark buildings and modern skyscrapers. Stay alert here as it can often be the sight of large protests and demonstrations. 

Ngara.  A central neighborhood that offers a glimpse into local life. The streets are bustling with people on foot, commuting in graffitied buses and shopping at roadside tents displaying produce, fruits, clothes and shoes.

Westlands.  A polished neighborhood with modern high rises, higher end restaurants, office buildings and luxurious hotels. It’s one of the safest areas of the city.

Gigiri.  A tree covered neighborhood surrounded by city parks and home to a large number of embassies, foreign expats and restaurants. 

See the Sights

Nairobi National Museum.  A museum dedicated to the societal, natural and human histories of Kenya. Societal exhibits recount the pre-colonial, colonial and independent histories of Kenya, including that of the country’s many tribes, regions, traditions and folklore. A natural history exhibit displays mounted animals categorizing some of Kenya’s many native species. A particular, though tragic, highlight is Sudan, the last male Northern White Rhino. Kenya is known as the Cradle of Humanity for its fossil records of the earliest humanoids. Exhibits feature skeletons and skulls representing human evolution, the most significant being the Turkana Boy, a complete skeleton of a 1.6 million year old Homo Erectus. 

Kaura Forest.  A large city park and protected forest with nature trials, wildlife, waterfalls and caves. We spent an afternoon meandering through the forest trails brimming with blue, yellow, emerald and orange butterflies. A troop of Mantled Guereza, a black monkey identifiable by their bushy white tails long fringe like hairs, jumped between treetops. Pairs of Suni, a small type of antelope foraged on the forest floor. 

• Karura Waterfalls.  A three tiered waterfall flowing from a chocolate colored river in the middle of the forest. 

• Mau Mau Caves.  A series of riverside caves downstream from the waterfall. They have been used by indigenous peoples dating back hundreds of years. 

• Good to Know.  Admission costs a small fee from any of the park entrances. 

Giraffe Centre.  A conservation center for Rothschild Giraffes with a viewing platform and feeding station. We stood face to face with the giraffes, admiring their towering bodies, exotic patterns and cute expressions up close. Their warm grey tongues licked fibrous pellets them our fingers. Warthogs ran around their long legs feeding on fallen scraps. Adult giraffes and calfs walked around the tree covered meadow and nature trails beyond. The center is famed for the Giraffe Manor, an ivy covered stone estate converted into a bed and breakfast for high paying guests to visit with giraffes. 

Shop the Markets

Nairobi City Market.  An eclectic market in the Central Business District with shops selling African goods, fresh flowers and meats. Friendly vendors invite you to take a look at their African handicrafts like wooden animal statues, beaded masks, leather sandals, landscape paintings, colorful woven textiles, baskets and bags. Between the things shops are a couple small produce stands. The exterior of the building is painted with murals and patterns representing the country.  Fragrant flower stands line the sidewalks surrounding the building. A meat market with butchers, fish mongers and strong smells occupies the side of it. 

Maasai Market.  A traditional handicrafts market consisting of local vendors selling handmade Kenyan and Maasai goods. Aisles of tents line a parking lot, each merchandised with a variety of items. We saw stone and wooden statuettes of animals, Maasai beaded jewelry and masks, wooden kitchenware and serveware, colorful and patterned textiles, natural woven bags and baskets, African spears and shields, brass metalwork and canvas paintings. We left purchasing a shoulder bag, two rings, beaded jewelry, a cooking paddle and a bird statuette. 

• How to Works. The market is intimidating at first. Before reaching it, several men surrounded and followed us inside. They do not leave you alone, tell you any prices or let you purchase directly from vendors. Instead, they act as “chaperones,” collecting items from vendors that you select. After walking you through the market, they display all of the goods you selected and make an outrageous offer. 

• Haggle.  Now the haggling begins! Counter with an offer between 10-20% of their asking price. Let them make you a “special price” but hold firm on your offer. The price will continue to drop, especially as you walk away. They want to make a sale after chaperoning you through the market. Let them win a little and go up 10% from your first offer. They’ll grudgingly agree, smile and offer a handshake. Do not pay more than 20-25% of their initial asking price. They’ll accept cash or credit card. 

• Pro Tip.  You can see and purchase many of the same goods at roadside shops across the country. If going on a safari, you will inevitably find yourself in one during rest stops. Save yourself some hassle and purchase goods from here.

Nairobi National Park

A national park and protected wildlife reserve on the edge of Nairobi. It’s home to a wide range of African animals while still in view of the city’s skyline. We went on a half day safari through the park, its vast savanna and grasslands. 

The Big Five.  The “Big Five” in Africa refers to the most difficult big game animals to spot on foot. We spotted three of the five during our safari, including rhinos, buffalo and a lion! A solo Lion walked slowly along the park’s dirt road as we observed from our safari truck. A pair of Cape Buffalo, recognizable by their dramatic horns feed in the grass. A critically endangered Black Rhino lurked in the bush. It offered us a fierce yet cute stare with its pointed horn and wiggling ears. A crash of threatened Southern White Rhinos stood in the savanna and several more slept near the road. We passed up close enough to hear them breathing.

Herds of Animals.  The constant herds of animals were an unbelievable sight! Black and white striped zebras, patterned giraffes, horned impalas, antelopes and hartebeests gathered throughout the reserve. A white rhino even surprised us as it walked from beyond a bush as we watched a tower of giraffes graze. 

Wild Game.  We spotted several other wild game on our safari. A lone hyena and curious jackals ran through the bush. A solo wildebeest tried to blend within a large dazzle of zebras. A warthog nestled in the grass. A troop of baboons sat grooming each other. A family of Roxk Hyrax, a tailless rodent, crawled over rocks. 

African Birds.  The park is home to native Kenyan and East African birds. We spotted varying species from the world’s largest to small and colorful birds. Ugandan Cranes with crowned heads stood near watering holes. Dozens of Guinea Fowl, a wild chicken, ran along the roadside. Vibrant blue and orange kingfishers rested on shrubs. Vultures watched from tree tops. Towering ostriches strutted across the savanna.

Watering Holes.  Watering holes are great gathering spots to observe wild game. Crocodiles lurked at the waters edge as a zebras drank and a flock of African Ibis landed nearby. Adult and baby hippos lounged in water, poking their large heads and backs above the surface.

Book a Safari.  A guided safari is the best way to visit the Nairobi National Park. We booked our Safari with Live in Love Kenya Tours and Travel. It included a guide and transportation in a 4x4 Safari Land Cruiser with a pop up roof. 

Good to Know.  Park entrance fees are not typically included in safaris and need to be paid separately. The animals and game are purely wild and can only be viewed from safari vehicles. They’re not lured or baited. It’s forbidden to get out of safari vehicles due to safely. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Nana Swahili Restaurant.  A Kenyan restaurant with a range of East African dishes. We dined here our first night in Nairobi, ordering two stews eaten by hand with Ugali and Chapatis. Try the red snapper cooked in coconut curry and maharagwe ya nazi, kidney beans cooked in a coconut béchamel. 

Connect Coffee.  A coffee shop and roastery with house roasted Kenyan coffee and fresh baked pastries. Try their hand brewed coffees or their specialty, Mt. Kilimanjaro, a layered coffee made with espresso, cream and chocolate.

Hero Restaurant & Bar.  A super hero themed bar on a roof top overlooking the Gigiri neighborhood and Nairobi skyline. The interior is painted in murals of superhero’s and chairs are embellished with their logos. Order cocktails from their superhero and sidekick inspired menu printed on a comic book. It’s been rated as one of the Top 50 Bars in the world. Try the Captain’s Tea, Highly Sassy, Kijabe Kayama or Plantain Old Fashioned. 

Rosina’s.  A Swahili and Indian fusion restaurant. Ordered a curried and spiced seafood platter to share with lobster, calamari, crab, oysters, shrimp and fish. It came with Kenyan chipati and a spread of sauces. For dessert, a saffron icecream with peanuts, chia, jellies and noodles. 

Kenyan Cuisine

Kenyan cuisine is flavorful, fresh and aromatic. A staple of the cuisine are various forms of one pot dishes. We tasted and cooked several local meals consisting of hearty grains, warm spices, a range of vegetables. 

• Ugali.  A commonly eaten white corn flour mash used to scoop stews and curries by hand. Roll a small lump into a ball, press an indentation in the center and scoop using your right hand.  

• Chapati.  A type of roti used to scoop stews and curries by hand. 

• Sukuma Wiki.  A dish made from sautéed collared greens or spinach, onions, tomatoes and spices. It’s eaten by hand with Ugali. 

• Kachumbari.  A salad made with chopped tomatoes, red onions and chili peppers. 

• Pilau.  A hearty and flavorful “one pot” rice dish made with aromatic spices, onions, tomatoes, potatoes and a protein like beef, chicken or soy. 

• Matoke.  A one pot dish made with stewed green bananas, vegetables and a range of savory spices. 

• Githeri.  A stew made from corn, beans, arrowroot and a mix of aromatic spices. It’s eaten with Ugali. 

• Rolex.  A chipati with an omelette rolled up inside. It gets its name from the phrase, “rolled eggs.”

• Samosas.  A common snack across Kenya brought over by Indian influences. The dough packets are stuffed with spices, potatoes and peas.

• Ugi.  A hearty porridge made from finger millet grains and warm spices. It’s a common breakfast dish across East Africa. 

• Mandazi.  Fried donuts made from puff pastry and a hint of cardamom. They’re eaten with coffee or tea. 

• Bush Honey.  Wild flower honey produced by bush bees. It has a dark color and very floral flavor. 

• Chai.  A black milk tea brewed with warm spices like pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, ginger and coriander. 

• Tusker Beer.  One of Kenya’s national beers. Its logo is of a tusker African elephant. Try the lager and cider. 

Where to Stay

Mushembi Airbnb.  We stayed in a two bedroom apartment in Ngara with a kitchen and in unit laundry. It was a comfortable and spacious place with Kenyan decor including beaded masks, woven baskets, colorful textiles and wooden animal sculptures. 

Khweza Bed and Breakfast.  A centrally located and affordable hotel with comfortable rooms, included breakfast, laundry service and a rooftop restaurant serving traditional Kenyan cuisine. We ordered the coconut fish, ugali with sukuma, a rolex and masala fires. Reserve on Booking.

Location Specifics

The Dry Season.  The best time to visit Kenya is from June to August during the dry season. It makes for the best time to spot wild game in the parks and reserves. The “Big Five,” Lions, Cheetah, Elephants, Rhino and Buffalo are most active during the cooler months while in search for water. This time of year also coincides with winter. Temperatures around Nairobi are chilly, ranging between lows of 50F to highs of 70F. 

Right vs Left Hand.  The right hand is used for everything from eating, receiving or giving and greeting people. The left hand is considered dirty and used for personal hygiene. Avoid using it when interacting with others or eating. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water in Nairobi not safe to drink unless boiled or treated. Generally stick to filtered or bottled water for drinking, brushing teeth and cooking with. 

Tipping.  Tipping when dining out is not expected however leaving 10% is greatly appreciated for good service. Tipping tour guides, drivers, cooks and porters a safaris is expected. In general, plan to tip the equivalent of $10 USD per day per guide and $5 USD per day per cook, porter and driver. 

Cash vs Card.  Businesses in Nairobi are mostly cash free, accepting credit other than debit card payments. Still, it’s valuable to carry Kenyan Shillings incase card is not accepted. 

General Safety.  Nairobi is rough around the edges. Be aware of your surroundings and maintain a low profile. Don’t walk around alone or in unfamiliar areas at night. Don’t wear jewelry or name brands. Don’t openly carry valuables like phones or cash. Avoid taking photos on the streets or of people. Dismiss people that approach you on the street. Avoid protests, police and any situation that could lead to confrontation.

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Kenyan laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Pre-Airport Security Check.  Before entering the airport, there is a roadside security check. Passengers have to pass through metal detectors while their bags are scanned or sniffed by dogs. It’s common practice in East Africa. 

Language.  English is commonly spoken across Kenya. Many people also speak Swahili, an East African language. 

Swahili Phrases 

Jambo.  A common greeting. When someone says Jambo, respond back with Jambo as a sign of mutual respect. 

Mambo.  A more informal version of Jambo. It’s often said amongst friends. 

Karibu.  A greeting meaning welcome or used as you’re welcome.

Asante.  Thank you. 

Asante Sana.  Thank you very much. 

Hakuna Matata.  To quote the Lion King, it means “no worries” or no troubles. It is a genuine Swahili phrase though mostly said between locals and travelers. 

Getting Around 

Bolt or Uber.  Both ride hailing apps are popular and readily available across Nairobi. Bolt is generally cheaper. Uber specifically has an affordable ride option called Chap Chaps for short distances within the city. We used them to get around everywhere we needed to go. 

For Next Time…

Next time we visit Kenya, we plan to explore the country’s coastal towns, its highest mountain and largest lake. 

Mt. Kenya.  The second highest mountain peak in Africa and tallest in Kenya. It’s surrounded by hiking trails, campgrounds and forest reserves. We plan to return and camp overnight along the extinct volcano’s trails. 

Lake Victoria.  A vast freshwater lake boarding Kenya, Rwanda, Uganda and Tanzania. 

Mombasa Old Town.  An old town in the port city of Mombasa. Its history and streets have been shaped by a range of colonial powers and influences including the British, Portuguese, Persian, Arab and Indian. 

Lamu Old Town.  A historic coastal city and one of the oldest Swahili settlements in East Africa.

The Komodo Islands

The Komodo Islands

Komodo is an exotic Indonesian destination mystified by its dragons, picturesque landscapes, underwater marine life and pink sand beaches. The port city of Labuan Bajo is the hub for experiences in the region including live aboard charters to the islands of Komodo National Park. 

Komodo Live Aboard

The best way to experience the Komodo Islands is on a Live Aboard. Boat operators across Labuan Bajo offer multi-night tours visiting the Komodo, its islands, beaches and reefs. We booked a 3 day 2 night tour on The Dinara with Amaze Vacations. It included all activities, a private cabin and all meals. 

The Dinara.  Our vessel for the three days touring the Komodo Islands. The beautiful wooden ship has comfortable private cabins and communal decks. We stayed in the Krakatau Room, one of the few rooms with windows on two sides and a private balcony! It was both adventurous and glamorous. 

Pro Tip.  Book your Live Aboard when you arrive! This gives you the best chance to coordinate around the weather. As planners, we booked months ahead of time but had hazy and rainy weather the dates of our tour.

Komodo National Park 

Komodo National Park is home to the Komodo Dragons! The park consists of several protected islands with dramatic landscapes, picturesque beaches and thriving marine life.

Komodo Island.  The largest island in Komodo National Park with the largest population of Komodo Dragons. We visited Komodo Village and were lead by local guides through the hillside. We didn’t have to walk too far before spotting three Komodo Dragons. One was shading under a tree, a giant one was resting along a dried up river and a third was sleeping in a nest made between tree roots. 

Our Recommendation.  Though we got to see Komodo Dragons, we don’t recommend booking a tour that visits the Komodo Village. It’s very touristy and the place is unfortunately littered with plastic and trash. Instead, go to the Komodo National Park Office and hike from there.  

Padar Island Sunrise.  A rugged island with hiking trails, crescent shaped coves and pink sand beaches. After spending a night on the ship, we woke up early to hike to the summit for sunrise. The trail leads along the island’s crest to different panoramic viewpoints. We sat near the top and watched the sunrise illuminate the island as it rose.

Padar Island Pink Beach.  A sandy beach made up of finely eroded grains of red and white corals. The mixture gives the beach a pinkish hue. The turquoise colored water offers stunning contrast to pink sand. The color is most vibrant right after a wave washes on shore. There are several pink sand beaches around the Komodo Islands.

Pulau Karangan.  A vibrant and shallow water coral reef teeming with marine life. It feels like being inside of an aquarium as thousands of colorful and tropical fish swim in all directions. Abstract looking corals cover the ocean floor as currents flow along a steep drop off. It was some of the best snorkeling we’ve ever done, however signs of stress and bleaching were evident in several parts of the reef. 

Komodo Manta Ray Point.  A snorkeling point where manta rays are frequently said to visit. We didn’t spot any but stuck around to snorkel and free dive in the deep blue waters. Down below, layers of large coral formations grow on top on each other as reef fish live within. 

Manjarite Reef.  A coral reef off shore from the Manjarite Beach with a sprawling coral garden and layers of large coral formations. We swam with all types of tropical fish and sea turtles!

Kelor Island.  A small island with a hiking trail leading to its summit with views of the surrounding islands, anchored boats and blue waters below. We snorkeled near the beach, spotting black tipped reef sharks and puffer fish.  

Taka Makasar.  A sandbar island surrounded by swimmable turquoise waters. We snorkeled and spotted small black tipped reef sharks. Further offshore we saw a pod of dolphins swimming between the anchored wooden ships.

Bats of Pulau Kalong.  Shortly after sunset, thousands of giant bats emerge from the forest on Kalong Island and take flight over the bay. Their dark silhouettes flutter overhead, contrasting the warm colors of the early evening sky. It was a serene and beautiful sight to watch from the top of our live aboard boat.

Labuan Bajo

Labuan Bajo is the main city on the island of Flores and entry point to Komodo National Park. The town surrounded by lush hills with hiking trails, beaches and lookout points. Its harbor is dotted with fishing boats and traditional wooden ships for live aboard tours. It’s worth spending a couple of days here either before or after booking a live aboard. 

Soekarno Hatta Street.  A narrow palm lined street passing through the center of Labuan Bajo with restaurants, cafes, dive shops, tour offices and massage spas. 

Waterfront Promenade.  The city’s waterfront promenade overlooks the harbor and its many anchored ships. It’s a beautiful walk for the sunset and to enjoy local festivities after dark. 

Pavillon Off Shore.  A waterfront boardwalk ending at an overwater pavilion with views of the harbor and dozens of anchored ships. It’s a calm spot for enjoying the tranquil views and scenery.

Wills Hills.  A lookout point at the tip of Labuan Bajo with views of the islands and ocean. We spotted wild monkeys in the trees and a school of shark circling in the water below. Many people come here for the sunset.

Sylvia Beach.  A crescent shaped tan sand beach overlooking the bay. The calm blue waters are perfect for swimming & sunbathing. The beach is located at the Sylvia Resort Komodo. The beach is free to enter for non-guests that purchase anything from the restaurant or bar. 

Sylvia Hill.  A hill above Sylvia Beach with views of the bay, island and sunset. It’s a popular local spot reachable after a 10 minutes hike from a roadside parking lot.

Puncak Waringin.  An observation deck at one of the tallest points in town. It has sweeping views of the harbor, islands and golden sunset. Tickets costs 50K Rupiah. For a free view with similar perspectives, visit the Photo Spot Labuan Bajo. It’s only a minute walk down the street.

Cunca Walung Waterfall.  A jungelous river canyon with a waterfall at its end. The canyon is reachable after walking 15 minutes down a forested nature trail and across a planked suspension bridge. At the canyon, we jumped from a rock cliff into the river and swam upstream to the base of the waterfall. Mist sprayed all around us and between the smoothed and curved canyon walls. Following the current back downstream we swam in the refreshing river and explored the eroded rock pools. 

Good to Know.  The entry fee costs 100K Rupiah per person and includes a guide. 

Rangko Cave.  A coastal cave with a flooded and swimmable chamber. During the mid-afternoon, from roughly 2-3:30pm, sunlight streams inside, illuminating its interior and aquamarine colored water. We swam around, viewing the stalactites and watching the birds fly from their nests. There is a small beach before the trail leading to the cave with a snack vendor and restrooms. The cave is only reachable by boat. 

Getting Here.  We hired our airport taxi driver for the day to bring us to the Cunca Walung Waterfall, Rangko Cave and Sylvia Hill Sunset Point. He charged 1.5 million Rupiah (about $90 USD at the time) for full transportation including the boat.

Labuan Bajo Fish Market.  An nightly seafood market with dozens of street side kitchens barbecuing the day’s catch. Colorful arrangements of fresh fish like grouper, snapper, mahi mahi and parrot fish are displayed on icy tables. Live mantis shrimp, lobsters, crabs, oysters and clams sit in tubs of water and bottles. Smoke from the bbq grills wafts through the air as locals and travelers feast under awnings on the promenade. Shop around for the best looking seafood and prices to match. We ordered a grilled grouper, mantis shrimp and coconut from Kodak Para Ikatte.

Places to Eat & Drink

Naga Bar.  An overwater bar at the end of a snaking boardwalk. The menu features tiki style drinks and signature cocktails inspired by the folklore and goddesses of Flores. It’s located at the AYANA Resort and open to non-guests. 

Waroeng Labuan Bajo.  A second floor restaurant overlooking the harbor of Labuan Bajo. They serve traditional Indonesian dishes including vegetarian and halal options. We came here for our first lunch, ordering with the national beer, Bintang.

Happy Banana.  A very popular cafe and restaurant with a wide ranging menu including coffees, smoothie bowls, vegetarian dishes, sushi and poke.

Komodough.  A tiny cafe with a very clever name. They sell strong coffees and a variety of pastries. Try the pandan croissant and pandan coconut roll for local flavors. 

Copper Bonnet.  A restaurant with a cocktail menu themed after Magellan’s voyage around the world. The menu features about two dozen signature cocktails, each with local and regional ingredients tied to a specific point in the voyage. Try the Burn The Ship and Coconut Palm. 

Indonesian Cuisine

Nasi Goreng.  Vegetable fried rice, an Indonesian staple commonly served on menus around the country. It’s a popular breakfast dish.

Mi Goreng.  The same as nasi goreng, except made with noodles instead of rice. 

Gado Gado.  Lightly steamed or boiling vegetables served with a spicy peanut sauce. 

Batagor.  Fried banana, tempe or tofu stuffed with glass noodles and veggies. It’s a very common street food dish in East Java and eaten for breakfast or a mid day snack. 

Tempeh.  Fermented and spouted soybeans formed into a protein patty or block. A common preparation is Tempeh Lada Hitam, tempeh cooked in a black pepper sauce.

Sayur Lodeh.  A spiced coconut stew cooked with tempeh, eggplant, tomatoes and green beans. 

Bintang.  Indonesia’s national beer. It’s a light beer perfect for the perpetually hot afternoons and evenings.

Sambal.  Indonesians love spicy food. The source of the heat is often sambal, a minced mixture of Thai chili peppers, shallots and garlic.

Location Specifics

When to Visit. Visit during the peak of the dry season, in mid June. The weather was sunny and bright most days with the occasional afternoon storm.

Shoes Off Indoors.  Like many places in Asia, it’s proper to remove shoes before entering home or some shops. 

Plastic Pollution.  Unfortunately plastic pollutes many of the harbors, beaches and lookout points around Komodo. 

Islamic Customs.  Indonesia is an Islamic country. The call to prayer is present in most places. Modesty and respect in all forms are the most important customs to follow.

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Indonesian laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Getting Around 

On Foot.  The town of Labuan Bajo small and easily walkable. 

By Taxi.  Taxis and motos are plentiful around town. Most locals will offer a ride anywhere around town, to and from the airport or to the resorts outside of town for 100K Rupiah. 

Elsewhere in Indonesia 

We’ve visited to Indonesia twice during our travels, exploring different islands across the archipelago. Chase waterfalls and hike into the craters of active volcanos in East Java. Visit ancient temples and wander through the lush rice terraces of Ubud, Bail. Take in the tropical atmosphere while lounges on the beaches of Coastal Bali. 

For Next Time…

Seeing the pink sand beaches, stunning coral reefs and Komodo dragons themselves left us in a sense of awe and wanting to see more. Next time we return, we have a few ideas of what we would see and do. 

Rinca.  A lesser visited island regarded by those who have as being one of the best kept secrets of the Komodo Islands. It has Komodo Dragons, scenic landscapes, coral reefs and sunset views. 

Spiderweb Rice Terraces.  An indigenous method of growing rice on Flores with tiered rice terraces shaped like a spider web. The best time of year to visit is during the rainy season when they’re in full sprout. 

Scuba Diving.  We saw over a dozen dive shops with scuba tours in Labuan Bajo. Several of which offer introductory dives in the Komodo Islands for people without licenses. 

Cebu, Philippines

Cebu, Philippines 

Cebu is an island destination in the Philippines known for its thrilling outdoor adventures, underwater excursions and memorable wildlife encounters. The island is a hub in the region to visit neighboring islands and destinations across the country.

An Island of Adventures 

The underwater world is teeming with an incredible array of life. Outrigger boats ferried us to coral reefs and ocean drop offs where we snorkeled and free dived with giant whale sharks, tens of thousands of sardines and sea turtles. On land, we zip-lined above tropical forests, cannoneered down a turquoise river, swam through waterfalls, jumped from cliffs, boated up jungleous rivers, overlooked the “chocolate hills” and spotted wild tarsiers. 

Kawasan Falls & Canyoning 

Kawasan Falls is a three tiered cascading waterfall flowing from a turquoise colored mountain river. The river flows down a canyon popular for guided canyoneering adventures with hiking, swimming, cliff jumping, natural waterslides and trapeze style swings.

Jungle Zip Line.  The day starts with a 3 hour car ride from Cebu and a further 15 minutes up the mountain on motor bike to reach the jungle zip line. Strapped into body harnesses, we zip-lined 1km side by side, like superheroes, across a lush valley to reach the trail head and river.

Kawasan River Canyon.  We plunged feet first into the river and swam briefly down stream with the flow of the current. The bright turquoise hued water seemed to glow all around us. Lead by our guides, we traversed the river canyon and several natural obstacles. We jumped off 7 meter tall cliffs into deep river pools, slid down a natural waterslide and swam through narrow channels & small caves.

Kawasan Falls.  We experienced the three tiers of Kawasan Falls from the top down. The uppermost tier spills down rapids, through a narrow cliff and over a 15 meter tall drop. The second tier pours over a wide cliff into a  turquoise river pool. We swam behind the waterfall and dove through it back into the lagoon. Downstream a rope swing sways from a cliff into a separate pool near the top of the final tier. The last tier is a forked waterfall that flows into a large turquoise river pool. We swam in its vibrant water while admiring the natural beauty of the waterfall. Book with Cebu Tours on Viator. 

Swimming with Whale Sharks

One of the absolute highlights of our time in the Philippines was swimming with the whale sharks! The giant creatures feed just off the coast from the town of Oslob. They’re lured with krill early each morning as snorkelers observe from outrigger canoes and beneath the surface. We snorkeled along side these magical giants, watching as they gracefully swam by. They sucked in krill through their large mouths, slowing waving their fins and tails as they brushed past. Their unique striped and spotted pattern was mesmerizing to see up close. Their impressive size reached lengths of 10 meters, far longer than our boat. We spent about 30 minutes in the water with them before saying goodbye. 

Tumalog Waterfall.  A dramatic waterfall that cascades down a 100 meter tall cliff surrounded by lush tropical forest. The cliff is a natural green wall, covered in ferns, moss and plants. Water spills over protruding rocks and nodules before reaching the natural pool at its base. We stood beneath it, letting the cool and refreshing water shower us. It’s an easy sight to see after swimming with the whale sharks. Book with Cebu Tours on Viator. 

The Sardine Run

The Sardine Run is an incredible spectacle just off shore from the town of Moalboal. Beneath the surface, swirling masses of shimmering sardines swim in vast schools numbering in the tens to hundreds of thousands. We snorkeled and free dived around them, breaking through walls of fish and watching them part ways in perfect unison. It was a surreal experience to experience a sardine run and swim with so many fish. 

Pescador Island.  A small and unassuming island in the middle of the Tanon Strait. Surrounding it is a thriving coral reef and a 100 meter drop off descending into the deep blue abyss. Strange looking coral formations grow from the reef and its cliffside. They’re home to tropical fish, vibrant blue sea stars, pulsing jellyfish and unseen marine life. We snorkeled and free dived but can only imagine what it’s like to see with scuba gear.

Good to Know. We navigated around pods of golf ball sized jellyfish with long stringy tentacles. Their stings were mild but uncomfortable. We’d recommend wearing a rash guard or wetsuit to protect your skin. On the bright side, the jellyfish attracted a hungry sea turtle eager to feast on them. Motors on outrigger canoes and tour boats are extremely loud. Bring headphones or ear plugs to avoid hearing loss. Book with Cebu Tours on Viator. 

Bohol Island 

A large tropical island across the Cebu Strait with picturesque landscapes, reserves with endemic primates and Spanish colonial era sights. We explored the island on a day trip from Cebu. 

Chocolate Hills.  A landscape covered in over 1,000 domed and conical shaped hills. We visited the Chocolate Hills Viewing Deck, a lookout on top of one of the hills. From the view point we overlooked hundreds of them dotting the countryside. At the time, the hills were covered in green grass and called the name, “Avocado Hills” by our guide. During the peak of the dry season, the grass dries giving them their name, Chocolate Hills. 

Tarsier Conservation Area.  A conservation area home to the second smallest type of primate, the tarsier. The cute animals are no larger than a closed fist. They’re recognizable large buggy eyes and tiny bodies. They’re nocturnal but occasionally open their wide eyes and stare out. We spotted them clinging onto thin trees trunks under canopies of leaves.

Pro Tip.  Despite their size, they’re easy to spot. Skip the first few where people are gathering and follow the trail to spot the ones further in. 

Loboc River.  A green hued river flanked by verdant mountains and lush tropical forest. Palm trees lean over its banks as children swing from ropes into the water. Cold springs and small waterfalls flow into the river at its source. We cruised upstream on a floating restaurant serving classic Filipino dishes while enjoying the picturesque views and musical performances. A barge with locals danced the Tinikling, a traditional folk dance. Participants hop between bamboo poles as they’re smacked together following the rhythm of the music. We were invited up to join in after feasting on a Filipino lunch. 

Spanish Colonial Sights.  Stop at the Bacalyon Church, the oldest Spanish colonial church on the island and the Blood Compact Monument, the sight where the Spanish Conquistadors made a blood pact with the local tribe.

Getting Here.  We took a round trip ferry from the Cebu City to the Tagbilaran in Bohol with Ocean JetFast Ferries. It takes 2 hours to make the crossing with boats operating from early morning to after sunset. Book with Explore Cebu Tours & Travel on Viator.

Places to Eat & Drink 

Two restaurants we dined at in Cebu City gave us a flavor for home style local cuisine and elevated Asian flavors. 

Pig & Palm.  A higher end restaurant with a tapas style menu serving contemporary Asian cuisine. We ordered a spread of artfully arranged dishes including nori rice crackers, squid ink croquettes, miso glazed octopus, chargrilled carrots, steamed snapper and trio of banana desserts. It was an impressive feast as tasty as it was pretty.

Marjo’s Pochero.  A local restaurant serving traditional Filipino dishes. Try the smoked bangus, crab relleno, vegetable chop suey and garlic rice.

Filipino Cuisine 

Having spent three weeks island hopping across the Philippines, we ate and cooked many traditional Filipino dishes. 

Kinilaw.  A Filipino style ceviche made with vinegar washed seafood mixed calamansi lime juice, coconut cream, red onions, hot peppers and ginger. 

Adobo.  A national dish of the Philippines seen on menus across the country. Its base has a seared protein simmered with a sticky soy sauce glaze made with vinegar, brown sugar and pepper. 

Garlic Rice.  Rice cooked with fresh or fried pieces of garlic. It’s served with almost every meal.

Lumpia.  The beloved Filipino style spring roll stuffed with a protein. It’s typically served deep fried and crispy. We made a version using local Bangus fish.

Banana Turon.  A breakfast or dessert style lumpia made with fresh banana filling and sometimes ube jam.

Bangsilog.  A traditional Filipino breakfast pairing with grilled or fried fish, fried eggs and white rice.

Pancit.  A commonly served noodle dish stirfried with carrots and cabbage. 

Champorado.  A chocolaty rice porridge made with cocoa powder and evaporated milk. 

Calamansi Juice.  A Filipino juice made with calamansi limes. It has a citrus flavor similar to a mixture of lime, lemon and orange. 

Taho.  A layered dessert made with silken tofu, tapioca pearls and brown sugar sauce. It’s a common street food dish sold by vendors carrying large steel tins.

Halo Halo.  A Filipino “ice cream sunday” layered with a variety of different toppings including shaved ice, sweetened condensed milk, ice cream, sweet corn, red beans, peanuts, banana, mango, ube, jellies and cereals. 

Ube.  A starchy root vegetable famed for its deep purple color. It’s cooked down into a number of dishes, mostly desserts. We used it to make a sweet jam using a Filipino friend’s family recipe. 

Getting Around 

Grab.  The Southeast Asian ride hailing app is readily available across the city and between the airport. Rides between the airport and city center cost around 600 pesos. 

Where to Stay

Stay in Cebu City, using the location as a hub to explore the island. We stayed in an apartment at Cityscape Grand Tower in Cebu City. The central location madetourpick ups and drop offs easy as well as provided us with options for nearby restaurants. Book on Airbnb. 

Elsewhere in The Philippines

We spent three weeks island hopping around The Philippines, witnessing its incredible nature and wildlife, experiencing adrenaline rushes on outdoor activities and immersing ourselves in Filipino culture and cuisine. Explore the stunning landscapes and underwater wonders of Palawan. Overlook the vast palm groves and ride the surf breaks of Siarago. 

Siargao, Philippines

Siargao, Philippines

Siargao is sleepy palm covered island and the surf capital of the Philippines. It’s local atmosphere, tropical vibes and relaxed way of life exudes paradise. At sea, surfers ride waves on colorful boards, outrigger boats speckle the shoreline and captains ferry visitors to nearby islands. In town, palm thatched and tin roofed buildings enhance the island vibes while tuk tuks and scooters zip around streets. Siargao is home to a mix of locals and foreign expats enjoying life in paradise. Fishermen sell the daily catch at the public market, digital nomads work away at cafes and tourists unwind on vacation. 

Towns on Siargao

General Luna.  Siargao’s main town and hub for tourism. It’s located on the southeast side of the island. Its main road is home to all types of businesses including vibey cafes, Asian restaurants, cocktail bars, ice cream shops, tattoo studios, small produce markets and surf shops.

Del Carmen.  A small town on the northwest side of the island close to the airport. It’s a very local place and often less visited. The town is a jumping off point to visit the Sugba Lagoon, the Del Carmen Mangrove Forest and to try Filipino cuisine at roadside carinderias. 

Things to in Siargao

Go Surfing!  Siargao is the surf capital of the Philippines. One thing that can’t be missed is taking a surf lesson and riding some waves. 

• Cloud 9 Surf Beach.  Cloud 9 is one of the best spots for beginners and advanced surfers to ride consistent waves along a lengthy surf break during high tide. Colorful rows of surfboards are stacked along the beachfront while instructors wait nearby offering lessons. Access to the beach costs 100 pesos. 

• Happy Islanders Surf Club.  A surf school near Cloud 9. Instructors offer private lessons by the hour on fiberglass boards. We booked a two hour lesson, refreshing our knowledge of surfing basics, learning new skills and catching several waves. 

• Good to Know.  The afternoon lineups can get pretty crowded causing occasional collisions. Be cautious when falling off the board. The water is very shallow and rocky. 

Stay for Sunset.  The Cloud 9 Surf Beach & Boardwalk comes to life around sunset. A long wooden pier reaches out over the rocky shallows offering views of the island, warmly lit sky and groups of surfers. 

Pro Tip.Find a snack lady selling cassava chips with chocolate drizzle. 

Jacking Horse Trail.  A palm lined beachfront trail at Cloud 9 with surf rentals, cafes and restaurants. There’s a small ice cream kiosk serving avocado and mango soft serve. Visit Pop Up Bar Siargao after sunset to relax in hammocks and beanbag chairs under twinkle lights and palm trees as a musician performs. 

Shop at the General Luna Community Market.  The town’s main farmers market is a hub for locally sourced produce, meats and especially seafood. Located on the beach, fishermen deliver the day’s catch directly to the market each morning and mid afternoon. Piles of colorful reef fish, large yellowfin tuna and all types of sea creatures are sold by the kilo. Other vendors display stacks of eggs, cleanly plucked chickens, butchered pieces of pork, freshly harvested fruits, all types of vegetables, herbs and roots. Traveling on a budget, we shopped here for groceries needed to make local dishes back at our tropical hut. 

Walk the Del Carmen Mangrove Boardwalk.  The Del Carmen Mangrove Forest is the largest mangrove forest in the Philippines. A lengthy and winding boardwalk leads deep into its lush expanse and flowing waterways. Educational signs are posted along the route explaining the forest’s biodiverse importance and climatic significance. It makes for a peaceful walk in nature when visiting Del Carmen. 

Get a Tattoo.  Dozens of tattoo shops and studios around the island offer plenty of opportunities to get fresh ink. We visited Irie Tattoo for tattoos, getting a sea urchin and fish skeleton. Most studios offer walk ins and are cash only. 

Eat at a Carinderia.  Carinderias areFilipino restaurants with a spread of home cooked dishes served in metal trays or pots. They’re an affordable way to try the local cuisine including noodle and rice dishes, meat and veggie stews, fried chicken, fish and lumpia.

Hire a Human Drone.  A uniquely Filipino style of taking videos. The “human drone” uses a phone to film a group or scene in fast swooping, swirling and dramatic motions mimicking that of an actual drone. Most tour guides throughly enjoy providing the service. 

Island Tours 

The island tours are one of the best ways to see the natural beauty of Siargao and its nearby islands. We booked three tours during our week here at Siargao INT'L Travel & Tours. They have a small tour office General Luna along “Tourism Road.”

Siargao Land Tour 

Land tours offer visitors a chance to witness the vast palm groves, beaches, lagoons, tidal pools and waterways of Siargao in one day. 

Coconut Viewpoint.  A roadside lookout in the center of the island with views of the tropical palm forest spanning across the valley. 

Secret Beach.  A tidal beach on an inlet only visible during low tide. Its shaded coconut grove offers a relaxing place to enjoy the tropical scenery. 

Magpopongko Rock Pools and Flats.  A beach with tidal pools large enough for people to swim. They’re surrounded by shallow pools with marine creatures and plant life.

Maasin River.  A palm lined river with boardwalk and platform for jumping off of. There are street vendors near the bridge overlooking it selling river oysters and offering canoe tours.

Sugba Lagoon.  An island lagoon with emerald green waters surrounded by tree covered hills. At the lagoon’s center is an island with kayak rentals, swimming areas and a diving platform. The voyage into the lagoon passes dense mangroves, lush islands and stilt villages.

Sohoton Island Tour

Sohoton is remote island west of Siargao home to a series of small tropical islands, emerald hued waterways, flooded caves and lagoons with stingless jellyfish. The islands are only accessible via small outrigger canoes and local tour operators. 

Hagukan Cave.  A flooded cave accessible after swimming through a shallow entrance into its main chamber. The ceiling was dripping with stalactites while the water glowed emerald green as sunlight reflected in. 

Magkukuob Cave.  A flooded cave with stalactites and bats hanging from the chamber ceiling. We walked up one of the steep cliffs over stalagmites to an opening in the rock. On the other side was a wooden platform about 4 meters above the water. One by one, we exited the cave, jumping from the platform and swimming back to our outrigger canoe.

Jellyfish Sanctuary.  A secluded and sheltered lagoon home to a rare variety of stingless jellyfish. We jumped from the outrigger canoe into the jellyfish abundant waters. Small golden jellyfish pulsed all around us as we swam. Deep below the surface, large iridescent blue jellyfish pushed through the waters. It was a surreal and disarming experience swimming with these typically threatening creatures. 

Dagatan Sifai Resort.  A restaurant with a long yellow waterslide and diving platform leading into the lagoon. While waiting for lunch, we slid down the slide and splashed down into the water. Together with our tour group, we feasted on a Boodle Fight, a traditional Filipino style communal meal consisting of seafood, chicken, lumpia, fresh fruits, seaweed, noodles and rice all artfully arranged on banana leaves into an edible spread. 

Tri Island Tour 

The Tri Island Tour is most accessible tour from General Luna stopping at three off shore islands and a sand bar. 

Secret Island.  A shallow sand bar and swimming area in the middle of the bay. Outrigger canoes anchor around it and passengers jump off into the aqua colored water. 

Guyam Island.  A tiny palm covered island with beach shacks serving fried foods, fresh coconuts and snacks. There is a small swimming area and beach for relaxing. All around the island are many staged photo spots and drones flying overhead. We nicked named the spot Instagram island. 

Naked Island.  A small sand island in the middle of the bay completely void of any palm trees or foliage. We spotted a few star fish in the rocks around the island.

Daku Island.  A large palm covered island with dozens of picnic areas and restaurants serving Boodle Fights. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Siargao has a wide range of places to eat and drink. The main road in General Luna is lined with places to enjoy a lazy brunch, vegan meal, Filipino dinner or late night cocktail. We visited several spots during our week on the island.

Places in General Luna 

Cosmic Siargao.  A restaurant & cafe specializing in vegan versions of traditionally meat forward Filipino dishes. We ordered a spread of dishes including:

• Kare Kare. A stew made with a savory peanut sauce, eggplant and tofu. 

• Bicol. A spicy coconut strew made with “meat,” string beans, onion and garlic. 

• Satay.  A classic southeast Asian skewer with marinated and barbecued “meat.”

Manu.  An island style cocktail bar nodding to the Filipino origins of tiki drinks and culture. Inside the warmly lit space, bartenders shake and stir classic tiki drinks and cocktails with a house twist. Try the Planters Punch!

Halika Siargao.  A popular ice cream and gelato shop serving classic and local flavors like ube, mango, pandan and cashew. 

Cabuntog Golden Bell Cafe.  A beachy cafe above a cute island boutique. Come here for banana pancakes, smoothie bowls, fresh fruits and coffees.

Karrose Bakeshop.  A traditional Filipino bakery with a glass display case featuring dozens of freshly baked breads, cookies, pastries and cakes. Try the Ube Swiss Roll. 

Last Chance.  An elevated cocktail bar with a moody yet tropical lounge, house cocktails and flavorful small plates. Try the Coconut Old Fashioned for a classic with an island twist, the Nutty Pailhog for a herbal and light rum drink or the Saging Palenque for something smoky and sweet. 

Las Palmas.  A tropical styled hotel restaurant with lush greenery and island decor under a tall palm thatched roof. Their menu features sweet and savory dishes, perfect for a late morning brunch!

El Chapo’s.  A Mexican inspired taqueria with tacos, tostadas and nachos. Ordered the spiked horchata with a shot of local rum!

Cafe Kokomo.  A small cafe along Jacking Horse Trail with lunchtime sandwiches and light bites. 

Al’s Beach & Pizza.  A restaurant at Cloud 9 with breakfast dishes, brick oven pizza, coffees and cocktails.

Places in Del Carmen 

The Mangroves.  A second floor restaurant overlooking the Del Carmen port with a variety of seafood dishes served in generous portions. Order the sizzling and fried shrimps, crab soup and whole grilled Pompano fish. For dessert, Halo Halo.

JB Bakeshop.  A local bakery with a glass display case filled with hundreds of Filipino pastries, cakes, cookies and breads. We ordered multiple bakes for a pastry breakfast.  

Sulima Eatery.  A classic carinderia in Del Carmen with a range of Filipino dishes sold by the plate. Try the lumpia, grilled fish, squash soup. We stopped here on our tour of Sugba Lagoon. 

Filipino Cuisine

Having spent three weeks island hopping across the Philippines, we ate and cooked many traditional Filipino dishes. 

Kinilaw.  A Filipino style ceviche made with vinegar washed seafood mixed calamansi lime juice, coconut cream, red onions, hot peppers and ginger. 

Adobo.  A national dish of the Philippines seen on menus across the country. Its base has a seared protein simmered with a sticky soy sauce glaze made with vinegar, brown sugar and pepper. 

Garlic Rice.  Rice cooked with fresh or fried pieces of garlic. It’s served with almost every meal.

Lumpia.  The beloved Filipino style spring roll stuffed with a protein. It’s typically served deep fried and crispy. We made a version using local Bangus fish.

Banana Turon.  A breakfast or dessert style lumpia made with fresh banana filling and sometimes ube jam.

Bangsilog.  A traditional Filipino breakfast pairing with grilled or fried fish, fried eggs and white rice.

Pancit.  A commonly served noodle dish stirfried with carrots and cabbage. 

Champorado.  A chocolaty rice porridge made with cocoa powder and evaporated milk.

Calamansi Juice.  A Filipino juice made with calamansi limes. It has a citrus flavor similar to a mixture of lime, lemon and orange. 

Taho.  A layered dessert made with silken tofu, tapioca pearls and brown sugar sauce. It’s a common street food dish sold by vendors carrying large steel tins.

Halo Halo.  A Filipino “ice cream sunday” layered with a variety of different toppings including shaved ice, sweetened condensed milk, ice cream, sweet corn, red beans, peanuts, banana, mango, ube, jellies and cereals. 

Ube.  A starchy root vegetable famed for its deep purple color. It’s cooked down into a number of dishes, mostly desserts. We used it to make a sweet jam using a Filipino friend’s family recipe. 

Where to Stay

Tropical Cozy Hut Retreat.  A jungelous cabin surrounded by palm trees and lush tropical foliage built with natural elements like bamboo, wood and palm thatch. The house has multiple outdoor spaces including a kitchen, living room and bathroom. We spent time relaxing outdoors every evening before retiring to the indoor bedroom. The cabin is located less than 10 minutes from town by tuk tuk. Book on Airbnb.

Sing Siargao.  A beautiful boutique hotel with several studio apartments. We visited a friend staying here, cooked breakfast together and dining on the room’s outdoor balcony. Reserve on Booking. 

Kopinos Tourist Inn.  A small hotel in the middle of Del Carmen with standard rooms and a communal kitchen. We stayed here for a night in between flights while island hopping. Reserve on Booking.

Getting Around 

Airport Transfer.  Vans wait at the airport to transfer guests to General Luna. Shared rides cost 300 pesos each. Private rides cost 2,500 pesos for the van. Tuk tuks to Del Carmen cost 400 pesos total.

Tuk Tuks.  The easiest wait to get around General Luna is by tuk tuk. Drivers frequently patrol the main road looking for fares. Rides anywhere in town cost 50 pesos each.

Location Specifics

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption. Only used bottled or filtered water to drink, cook or brush teeth with.

Insect Repellant.  Mosquitos are a real bother across the island. Wear insect repellent to avoid bites.

Sunblock.  Wear sunblock and bring enough of it with you to last the entirety of the trip. It’s extremely expensive to buy on the island. 

Cash.  The island is cash forward with few businesses accepting credit or debit card. Fortunately there are several ATMs throughout General Luna. 

Wreckless Drivers. If renting scooters, beware of wreckless and speeding drivers, especially tour vans. We saw multiple accidents across the island.

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Siargao is very welcoming and accepting of the LGBTQ+ community.

Island Tours.  The island tours can seem a bit shallow. Many of the tours are designed for people to take selfies or drone footage while time at some sights is very limited. 

Elsewhere in The Philippines

We spent three weeks island hopping around The Philippines, witnessing its incredible nature and wildlife, experiencing adrenaline rushes on outdoor activities and immersing ourselves in Filipino culture and cuisine. Explore the stunning landscapes and underwater wonders of Palawan. Swim with whale sharks and canyoneer the turquoise rivers of Cebu.

For Next Time…

We spent most of our week in General Luna on the southeast side of Siargao. When we return, we plan to explore Del Carmen in the west and the small surf towns in the north. Some highlights we missed are: 

Alegria Beach.  A white sand and palm lined beach near the island’s northernmost tip.

The Marvelous Somyot Cave.  A cave system with all types of rock formations and flooded chambers.

Pacifico Beach.  A beginners surfing beach with lessons, rentals and less crowds than Cloud 9. 

Taktak Falls.  A small waterfall with a natural swimming pool at its base.

Palawan, Philippines

Palawan, Philippines

Palawan is a tropical island in the Philippines home to breathtaking scenery and natural wonders. The island is a developing and welcoming destination that holds true to the its authenticity by preserving its culture and protecting its nature. Its shores are lined with white sand beaches, swaying palm trees, vibrant coral reefs and smaller islands. Rainforests and jagged cliffs stretch across the landscape as lagoons and caves lurk within. Captains of outrigger boats take travelers on tours or bring back the day’s fresh catch. Happy locals exchange smiles, strike up friendly conversations, sing nightly karaoke and share in their love of snacks. We spent over a week here between Puerto Princesa and El Nido, exploring the island’s beaches, lagoons, coral reefs and caves. 

Puerto Princesa  

Puerto Princesa is one of the main entry points to Palawan. It’s a traditional Filipino town home to local restaurants, rustic stays and access to other parts of the island, including the world renowned underground river.

Puerto Princesa Underground River 

The Puerto Princesa Underground River is the world’s longest navigable underground river. We toured a section of it by boat on a day trip from Puerto Princesa. 

Getting to the underground river was an adventure of its own. We were shuttled across the island along winding roads to the Sabang Boat Terminal, a pier dotted with colorful outrigger canoes. We boarded one and boated across the bay to reach a small beach. On shore, a trail lead through the forest, past wild monkeys, to the a boat launch and the cave entrance. 

Pro Tip.  Bring or rent ear protection to muffle the dangerously loud boat engines.  

The captain rowed us into the dark mouth of the cave, waiting a few moments for our eyes to adjust. The sounds of squeaking bats, swooshing swallows and continual drips of water echoed around us. The smell of guano was hard to ignore. Upriver are large chambers with various rock formations. Jagged stalactites, rippled surfaces and crystalline flow stones comprised the cave’s walls and ceilings. There is a strong emphasis on silence and not disturbing the cave environment. The capital pointed out key formations while an audio guide narrated. 

We booked our tour with Corazon Travel & Tours. Its included round trip transportation from Puerto Princesa, our tour of the underground river and lunch. 

Sabang X Zipline.  An overwater zip-line from a cliff to a small island 800 meters away. From the harness we overlooked the vibrant blue waters, sandy beach and forested mountains. 

Manlipien Beach.  A sandy beach with views of the zip-line and shallow aquamarine water. There are a couple fresh fruit and juice vendors nearby. 

Sarang Restaurant.  A buffet lunch spot near the Sabang Boat Terminal with Filipino dishes like fried galunggong fish, garlic rice, boiled yam, seaweed, fresh pineapple and ube bread. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Ka Inato Main Branch.  A Filipino restaurant in Puerto Princesa serving local dishes. We dined here for our first meal in the Philippines, ordering a spread of local dishes including: 

• Seafood Kare-Kare.A peanut curry mixed with veggies and seafood. 

• Binusog na Pusit. A whole squid grilled and stuffed with veggies.  

• Afritada.  Sweet tomato sauce with shrimp, vegetables and garlic rice. 

Mang Cary’s Bulalo.  A Filipino restaurant with bamboo walls, wooden tables and tropical plants decorating the dining room. We shared multiples dishes including: 

• Fish Lumpia.  Crunchy rolls stuffed with shredded fish and deep fried. 

• Talong Salad.  A salad made with steamed eggplants, cucumber, red onions and boiled eggs.

• Grilled Tuna. A tuna steak grilled, peppered abd served with sides of mango salsa and garlic rice.

• Flan.A delicate caramel custard that takes influence from the Spanish colonial period.

Where to Stay

We stayed at Casa La Aitor, a small hotel along a dirt road in Puerto Princesa with spacious apartment style rooms, an outdoor pool and an onsite cafe. Reserve on Booking.

El Nido

El Nido is a hub for marine activities, adventure parks and pure relaxation. We spent a lot of our time underwater, underground and beneath palm trees as we visited caves, coral reefs, tropical islands and white sand beaches. 

El Nido Town Center.  The town center is beachy haven with vegan cafes, local bakeries, coffee shops, boutique hostels, seafood restaurants, tour offices and beachwear shops. It’s still a small town with micro markets, barber shops, pharmacies and plenty of local residents. Colorful ribbons span across many of the streets while tricycle taxis drive below. Steep and lush cliffs flank the town while outrigger boats sit anchored in its crescent shaped bay. 

El Nido Tours 

El Nido has a well choreographed circuit of four tours making stops at beaches, caves, coral reefs, sandbars and islands around the El Nido and Bacuit Bays. We boarded outrigger boats over a course of three days for tours A, B and C. 

Good to Know. Each tour lasts about 6 hours, starting between 9-10am and retuning between 3-4pm. A lunch spread with Filipino dishes is served around noon. 

Pro Tip.  Pay for the Eco Tourism Development Fee (ETDF) in advance at the El Nido Municipal Hall. They’re needed for any tour and valid for up to 5 days. Bring extra cash on the tours for snacks, drinks and additional fees to certain sights and for kayak rentals. 

Where to Book. All tours can be booked in person at El Nido Beach in front of Mabuhay Sports Bar. Bring cash for payments and proof of your ETDF. Alternatively, tours can be booked ahead of time with Corazon Travels & Tours. 

Tour A

One of the most popular circuits around El Nido. It visits multiple beaches and lagoons over the course of the day. It’s the perfect way to enjoy beach time, kayaking, snorkeling and swimming. 

Seven Commandos Beach.  A white sand beach with a palm groves and turquoise swimmable waters set against a steep tree covered mountain. There is a beach bar with fruit shakes, cocktails and fresh coconuts. Order the coconut with rum poured inside for a tropical buzz. 

Big Lagoon.  Rented kayaks and paddled into a shallow channel lined by sharp rocky cliffs and shrubs. The channel varied in color from light blue to deep navy. We entered a lagoon and paddled left, kayaking through a very narrow cave. Once outside of it, we paddled further across the lagoon where no one else visited. In a few shallow coves were coral, jellyfish and even a small shark. 

Shimizu Island.  A rugged and lush island in the bay with several small sandy beaches. We stopped along one of the beaches to swim and for lunch. 

Secret Lagoon.  A hidden lagoon only accessible by crawling through a narrow opening in the rock cliff. Beyond is a milky blue lagoon with vertical rock cliffs opening up to the sky beyond. 

South Miniloc.  On the south side of Miniloc island between Secret Lagoon and Payong Payong Beach is a cove teeming with corals and marine life. The corals are all at a shallow depth and easy to snorkel above and between. Fish seemed to acclimate around our presence as we observed them. Electric blue clams, colorful christmas tree corals and rainbow scaled tropical fish were seen across the reef. Several anemones with clown fish swimming around swayed in the currents while spiky urchins hid in crevices below. 

Tour B

An often overlooked tour on the A to D circuit making it more peaceful than the others. It visits beaches, snorkeling spots and caves. It happened to be our favorite tour even with unfavorable weather!

Cathedral Island.  A thriving shallow water coral garden just below the surface. It makes up a sprawling landscape of colorful corals home to many variety of reef fish and marine life. We snorkeling overhead, observing the stunning structures, clusters of sea creatures and strange reef formations. The sight was easily the highlight of the day one of the best living coral reefs we have seen.

Cathedral Cave.  An ocean cave named for its tall vertical columns and rocky ribbons lining its walls. The cave is only observable from outside due to poisonous sea serpents living within.

Entalula Island.  A sandy beach with a palm lined shore and snorkeling area about 100 meters off shore. Below the water are nodules of living corals, anemone with families of clown fish, leafy sea grass and blue star fish.

Snake Island.  An island advertised for its snaking sandbar accessible during low tide. The tide was high when we arrived however we discovered rows with dozens of large starfish covering the ocean bottom. 

Cudugnon Cave & Beach.  A beautiful beach with a sandy palm lined shore, bat cave, underwater garden and small restaurant. The cave lead into a pitch black chamber with large flow stones, stalagmites and a colony of sleeping bats. Under the sea is a garden with leafy grasses, swaying anemones, tropical fish and iridescent blue clams. After cave exploring and snorkeling, we ordered mai tais from the restaurant and sipped on them at the beach. 

Tour C

A beach hopping tour making stops at a variety of beaches over the course of the day. It’s the second most popular tour on the circuit around El Nido.

Helicopter Island.  An island with a sandy tree lined beach at the base of a cliff. The water gradually gets deeper the further out and the coral becomes more lively with multiple large structures, colorful fish, sea stars and clams. It’s not as lively as points on other tours but still beautiful.

Hidden Beach.  A shallow snd sandy beach reachable after swimming up a channel with aquamarine water nestled between jagged rock walls. The channel had many small jellyfish that stung as we swam. Luckily they were relatively painless.

Matinloc Shrine.  A island shrine with several steps carved into the rock leading to a panoramic lookout over the channel. On a sunny day a gradient of turquoise, aqua and marine blue can be seen along the drop off below the water. We even spotted a sea turtle coming up for air. 

Secret Beach.  An underwater cave that leads to a “secret beach” just beyond. The high tide and strong current prevented us from reaching the beach. 

Talisay Beach.  A narrow beach with a steep drop off just meters from shore. The ledge of the drop off is covered in colonies of spiky black sea urchins and tropical fish. All of the coral was bleached or decaying. On shore is a small cave and a shack with snacks and drinks. 

El Nido Beaches

Crong Crong Beach.  A lengthy beach lined with boutique hotels, tropical styles restaurant and beach shack bars. The water is not swimmable due to jagged coral and hundreds of outrigger boats anchored off shore. It’s a pretty spot to catch the sunset, sip on a cocktail or sit down for a meal. 

El Nido Beach.  A large crescent shaped beach in the middle of town with colorful buildings home to seaside restaurants, bars and hotels. Most tours of the surrounding islands leave from here. It’s a popular spot for beach runners though not the best spot to swim or layout. 

Marimegmeg Beach.  A golden sand beach named after a 100 year old Marimegmeg tree. Its crescent cove is the perfect spot for swimming in the calm turquoise waters while its sunny shore is ideal for sunbathing and picnicking under the palm trees.

Las Cabañas Beach.  A golden sand beach that comes to a point with views of the karst islands throughout the bay. It’s lined with beachfront hotels and restaurants, popular for their sunset views. It’s most accessible during low tide though many areas are non-swimmable due to coral and rocks. The El Nido Zip Line passes overhead from the cliff behind.

Papaya Beach.  A idyllic white sand beach with turquoise waters, palm shaded shores and views of Baicut Bay. About 50ft offshore is a coral reef and field of sea grass with tropical fish, anemones, sea urchins and the occasional jellyfish. The beach is sparsely visited due to its remoteness making it a peaceful retreat to spend the day. There is a beach kiosk with coconuts, snacks and drinks for sale. It’s only reachable by boat or kayak. Unlike its neighbor, Seven Commandos Beach, it’s not offered as a stop on any of the tours. 

Things to Do

Outside of tours and beaches, there are a few nearby activities that were easy to DIY and experience on our own. 

El Nido Zipline.  A 750 meter zipline from a cliffside lookout to an island in the bay. We raced side by side, spinning back and forth as we overlooked the picturesque landscapes surrounding us and the ocean about 20 meters below. It’s possible to ride one way and walk back from the island during low tide. We rode during high tide and took the second zip line back, enjoying the thrilling views again. 

Pro Tip.  Arrive in mid morning or mid afternoon to avoid the post breakfast and post lunch rushes. Otherwise, waits can be up to 2 hours. 

El Nido Via Ferrata Canopy Walk.  An adventure park with a suspension bridge and steep walkways through the jagged and razor sharp cliffs towering above El Nido. Along the route are views of the cliffs ending at a platform with a panorama of the town and harbor. The route down has a couple spider web shaped platforms for observation and photo opps. We booked day of at the ticket office around 10am.

Jayven Kayak Rental.  A kayak rental at Corong Corong Beach with full day rentals. We paid 600 PHP for a double kayaks, returning it before sunset. From here, we kayaked around the boat dotted harbor, rugged cliffs and to Papaya Beach about 45 minutes away. 

Shop at the El Nido Public Market.  A local farmer’s market with booths of vendors selling fresh produce, vegetables, eggs, herbs and groceries. There is a central area with butchers carving meats and fish mongers preparing the day’s catch. Shop keepers are friendly and eager to help. We bought a bounty of items to cook various local dishes. It’s open daily and still bustling until 7pm. The market is cash only and prices are very fair. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Lion’s Sunset Lounge.  A beautiful beachfront restaurant decorated in bamboo, thatchery and natural materials. Their menus features Filipino and tropical dishes. We ordered the calamari rings, ground crab burger and a filet of tuna steamed in a banana leaf. 

El Nido Bakery.  A bakery in town with a display of golden baked pastries made with local flavors. We stopped in for pineapple cake, banana bread, salt bread and hopia ube, a flaky pastry filled with bright purple ube jam. 

Tales of the Islands.  A vibey restaurant and bar with a daily buy one get one happy hour from 3-7pm. We stopped in after a tour, ordering the Coco Tropical, an anise flavored piña colada and a classic sangria.

Happiness Beach Bar.  A cocktail bar along the main beachfront road in town. We stopped in for their buy one get one happy hour after a tour. Try the frozen margaritas and daiquiri! 

Orange Pearl Restaurant.  A beachfront hotel restaurant with views of the islands and bay. We stopped in for their buy one get one happy hour after zip lining and relaxing at Maremegmeg Beach. 

Jarace Grill.  A seaside restaurant at El Nido Beach with the freshest selection of seafood displayed on ice. We hand chose a red snapper and squid to have charcoal grilled with a side of Filipino garlic rice. 

Don Macchiatos.  A small coffee shop beloved for their 39 PHP lattes (less than $1 USD). Try the iced ube latte for a local flavor!

Brunch El Nido.  As its name implies, they do one thing, brunch! Their food menu offers egg dishes, overnight oats, sandwiches and fruit bowls. Bean bags sit at tables on the second floor, perfect for longing with a coffee, mimosa or sangria. 

Art Cafe.  A beachfront cafe and bar at El Nido Beach with freshly baked local pastries. We stopped in for a tuna empanada and cassava bread.

Filipino Cuisine 

Having spent three weeks island hopping across the Philippines, we got to eat and cook several traditional Filipino dishes. We tasted so many delicious local flavors at restaurants in Puerto Princesa, El Nido and on our tours.

Sotanghon Noodle Soup.  A thick and savory noodle soup often made with chicken, carrots, cabbage and sotanghon noodles. We replaced the chicken with marinated tofu giving it a chicken noodle soup flavor.  

Kinilaw.  A Filipino style ceviche made with vinegar washed seafood mixed calamansi lime juice, coconut cream, red onions, hot peppers and ginger. 

Adobo.  A national dish of the Philippines seen on menus across the country. Its base has a seared protein simmered with a sticky soy sauce glaze made with vinegar, brown sugar and pepper. 

Garlic Rice.  Rice cooked with fresh or fried pieces of garlic. It’s served with almost every meal.

Lumpia.  The beloved Filipino style spring roll stuffed with a protein. It’s typically served deep fried and crispy. We made a version using local Bangus fish.

Banana Turon.  A breakfast or dessert style lumpia made with fresh banana filling and sometimes ube jam.

Bangsilog.  A traditional Filipino breakfast pairing with grilled or fried fish, fried eggs and white rice.

Pancit.  A commonly served noodle dish stirfried with carrots and cabbage. 

Champorado.  A chocolaty rice porridge made with cocoa powder and evaporated milk.

Calamansi Juice.  A Filipino juice made with calamansi limes. It has a citrus flavor similar to a mixture of lime, lemon and orange. 

Taho.  A layered dessert made with silken tofu, tapioca pearls and brown sugar sauce. It’s a common street food dish sold by vendors carrying large steel tins.

Ube.  A starchy root vegetable famed for its deep purple color. It’s cooked down into a number of dishes, mostly desserts. We used it to make a sweet jam using a Filipino friend’s family recipe. 

Halo Halo.  The unofficial national dessert of the Philippines. It’s an icy layered treat made with sweetened jellies, root vegetables, corn and cereal drizzled with sweetened condensed and evaporated milks. 

Where to Stay

El Nido Lofts.  A small apartment complex with a handful of lofted studios. It’s a central spot located between the town center and Crong Crong Beach. From here, most places were only a 20 minute walk away. Reserve on Booking.

Getting Around 

Tuk Tuk.  The three wheeled hybrid of a car and motorcycle is the most efficient way of getting around El Nido. Tuk tugs are readily available on the street. Plan to pay in cash and negotiate price before getting in. Typical rides cost between 100 - 300 PHP depending on distance. 

Between Puerto Princesa & El Nido.  The best way to get between Puerto Princess and El Nido is by taking a shared transfer. Shuttles are available from either town’s transport terminal or by booking ahead with a scheduled pick up. After 5 hours of very winding roads, a couple pit stops and speedy driving, we made it to our destination. We booked with Corazon Travels & Tours on Get Your Guide the day before. 

Warning!  If you suffer from motion sickness, this is not the way to travel! The road is full of fast twists, turns and hills.

Location Specifics

Cash Only.  Many businesses and restaurants are cash only. There are ATMs and currency exchanges in town. Withdraw cash in the local currency (Philippine Peso) for the best exchange rate. 

Language.  Tagalong is the national language of the Philippines. It’s heavily influenced by Spanish. English is commonly spoken by most people. 

Power Outages.  There are near nightly power outages about an hour after sunset lasting from a few minutes to over an hour. This was especially true in Puerto Princesa. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe to drink, cook with or use for brushing teeth. Only used bottled water. Let tap water run clear before using it. 

Rain Storms.  There are frequent rainstorms lasting around 20 minutes, even on sunny and clear days. Always carry an umbrella!

Single Use Plastic.  While not entirely banned, it’s strongly encouraged to avoid single use plastic. Bring a re-usable straw, cloth grocery bag and insulated water bottle.

Beware of Jellyfish.  There are signs at every beach warning visitors to beware of jellyfish. We spotted several ranging from the side of a ping pong ball to the side of volleyball. 

When to Visit.  We visited in late May through early June on the curb season between spring and summer. We experienced more warm and sunny days than the couple cloudy and rainy days. 

Elsewhere in The Philippines

We spent three weeks island hopping around The Philippines, witnessing its incredible nature and wildlife, experiencing adrenaline rushes on outdoor activities and immersing ourselves in Filipino culture and cuisine. Overlook the vast palm groves and ride the surf breaks of Siarago. Swim with whale sharks and canyoneer the turquoise rivers of Cebu.

For Next Time…

Palawan is one of those destinations you hope will never change. We imagine coming back years from now and reliving our adventures all over again in addition to experiencing some things we missed. 

Coron.  A rugged and mountainous island with a rainforest, lagoons, coral reefs and ship wrecks. Similar to El Nido, it has its own circuit of 4 tours. The island is reachable by ferry 4 hours from El Nido. 

Nacpan Beach.  A lengthy golden sand beach about an hour north of El Nido by tricycle. Though semi-remote, it has small resorts, beach bars and lounge rentals. 

Tour D.  The only tour on the El Nido circuit that we missed due to timing. It visits island lagoons, coves, beaches and snorkeling points. 

Osaka, Japan

A Day Trip to Osaka

Osaka is a Japanese megacity famed for its energetic atmosphere, colorful neon lights, pop culture and street food. Osaka is both modern and historic, once serving as Japan’s imperial capital. It’s reachable on a day trip from Kyoto. 

Dotonbori

Dontonbori is the energetic downtown neighborhood of Osaka famed for its neon lit canal, extravagant signage and restaurant alleyways. It’s one of the best places to experience Japan’s food culture including conveyer belt sushi and the local dish, takoyaki. Sightseeing boats cruise the canal while j-pop performers attract large crowds on its pedestrian bridges. 

Dotonbori Don Quijote.  Japan’s largest location of the chain discount store, Don Quijote. It’s floors of aisle are stocked with an assortment of miscellaneous goods and Japanese souvenirs. Come here to ride the Ebisu Tower Ferris Wheel,  a giant vertical oval shaped ferris wheel overlooking Dotonbori. 

Kuromon Ichiba Market.  A covered street food market with restaurants and vendors specializing in Japanese seafood. Visit hungry and order fresh sushi and sashimi, snow crab and dungeness crab, tempera encrusted squid and octopus, freshly shucked oysters, buttery sea urchin roe and barbecued eel. Several stands also sell udon, soba and gyoza. 

Places to Eat & Drink in Dotombori

Daiki-suisan Kaitenzushi Dotombori.  A popular conveyer belt sushi restaurant in Dotombori. Plates of sushi and nigiri snake past diners along a series of bar counters. Grab a dish as they slowly passby and enjoy! Dishes are charged by the plate, with the design of each plate denoting the cost. It was one of the most fun dining experiences we had in Japan. 

Achichi Honpo Dotonbori.  One of the many street food restaurants along the Dotonbori Canal serving Osaka’s beloved dish, Tokoyaki. The battered and griddled octopus balls are garnished with eel sauce, kewpie mayo and green onions. Look for paper lantern of a cute red octopus on Dotonbori. 

Naruto Taiyaki Hompo.  A popular pastry shop selling Taiyaki, fish shaped pastries stuffed with a sweet filling. Theirs are crispy yet cakey with a generous filling of red bean paste, matcha or ube. Expect to wait up to 30 minutes for your chance to order. 

Cocktail Machine.  A speakeasy cocktail bar hidden behind a vending machine on the fifth floor of a narrow building in Dotombori. Their menu features over 100 different well priced cocktails. 

Umineko.  A small standing bar specializing in Japanese craft beers from local breweries. Try the wasabi cider! 

Shinsekai Street

Shinsekai Street is an incredibly vibrant street with colorful neon lights, vintage signs, golden statues, painted calligraphy, paper lanterns and claw machine arcades. Restaurants specialize in Kushiyaki (Japanese skewers) while cafes serve matcha flavored ice cream. Come here at night to experience the high energy of the street. 

Tsutenkaku (Osaka Tower).  A historic tower decorated with neon lights at the heart of Shinsekai Street. Its shape is similar to that of Tokyo Tower with a tapered point and pyramidal base. There is an observation deck on top. 

Tower Knives.  A traditional knife store manufacturing and selling a large variety of Japanese style blades. There is a workshop in the back of the store where the blades are sharpened, affixed to handles and custom engraved. The shop feels like a hardware store for chefs. We bought a Santoku knife, an all purpose chefs knife originating from Osaka. They ship internationally if not checking a bag home.

Hozenji Yokocho

Hozenji Yokocho is a series of narrow alleyways lined with paper lantern adorned izakayas and neon lit standing bars. It’s less crowded than the nearby streets surrounding Dotonbori but no less exciting. Come here to eat, drink or simply walk through. 

Hozenji Temple. A small Buddhist temple in the middle of an alley in Hozenji Yokocho. It offers a little moment of calmness surrounded by the high energy of the surrounding neighborhoods and streets.

Osaka-Jo Castle

Osaka-Jo Castle isa grand multi-tiered castle surrounded by a series of colossal motes, steep stone walls and historic bastions. Scenic parklands offer views of the castle and outdoor space for leisurely activities. The castle is now a museum with different exhibits and a rooftop observatory. Exhibit floors recount the castle’s history, the summer war of Osaka and unification of Japan. They feature artifacts like samurai helmets, armor and swords, colorful folding screens and calligraphy covered scrolls. 

Pro Tip. Get here before 8am to avoid the crowds and be first to enter the castle. 

Sot Coffee.   An elevated cafe near Osaka-Jo Castle with premium coffees made using house roasted coffee. Try the coconut latte and homemade nougat.  

Getting to Osaka

There are multiple trains and train lines between Kyoto and Osaka. The quickest is the JR West Haruka Express from Kyoto Station to Osaka Station. It takes anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour. Once in Osaka, walk and take the local subway to get around the city.

Elsewhere in Japan

We spent three weeks traveling across Japan visiting ancient sights, modern megacities and serene landscapes all the while enjoying the country’s world renowned cuisine and experiencing its remarkable culture. Visit the iconic Mt. Fuji and explore the sprawling urban landscape of Japan’s vibrant capital city of Tokyo. Step back in time while walking past historic pagodas, ancient temples and traditional tea houses in Kyoto. Explore Japan’s southernmost prefecture and learn about the Ryukyu Kingdom in Okinawa.