Big Island Travel Guide: Volcanoes, Black Sand Beaches & Island Adventures

The Big Island, Hawaii

The Big Island is the largest of the Hawaiian Islands. Its rugged and lush terrain is home to idyllic nature, volcanic landscapes, cultural sights and all around island vibes. Blackened lava fields grow from active volcanoes while waterfalls spill over lush cliffs. Manta rays, dolphins, sea turtles and colorful reef fish swim offshore. Coastal cities like Kona and Hilo are tourist hubs while inland towns like Pāhoa and Honomu provide a local atmosphere. Tiki bars serve tropical cocktails and pupus, cafes brew Kona coffee and farmers markets selling locally grown produce. Cultural sights including petroglyph parks and royal grounds highlight Hawaiian heritage. 

Volcanoes National Park 

The Big Island is famed for the Volcanoes National Park. A park encompassing a sprawling region of the island stretching from sea level on the South Coast to the summit of the Mauna Loa Volcano. The park is home to active volcanos, hardened lava fields and flows, craters, lava tubes, steam vents, scenic overlooks, hiking trails, sea arches and Hawaiian petroglyphs. We spent an entire day in the park exploring sights along the Crater Rim Drive and Chain of Craters Road. There is a vehicle fee to enter the park. The park is open 24 hours a day. 

Crater Rim Drive

A road partly circling the Kilauea Crater with active volcanos, crater overlooks, steam vents, lava tubes and trails. The drive starts at the Kilauea Visitor Center. 

Sulphur Banks.  Steam vents with yellow sulphur deposits. It’s reachable from the visitor center after a half mile hike. 

Halema‘uma‘u Trail.  A 1.8 mile trail leading through the forest to Kilauea's blackened lava field. It’s located just past the visitor center to the left. 

Byron Ledge Trail.  A 1.1 mile trail leading from the end of the Halema‘uma‘u Trail. It crosses through the lava field, up the crater rim and into the forest. 

Steaming Bluff.  A crater ridge where steam rises from volcanic vents with views of the Kīlauea caldera. It’s located 1 mile last the visitor center to the left. 

Kilauea Volcano.  A volcano that has been frequently erupting since 1983. Hawaiian’s call this the Home of Pele, the Lava Goddess. It erupted and created a lava lake weeks before we visited. 

Kilauea Overlook.  One of the best locations to overlook the Kīlauea Caldera. Steam is visible during the day and the glow of lava at night, if erupting. If not, the stars look incredible from here on a clear evening. It’s located 2.3 miles past the visitor center to the left. 

Kilauea Iki Overlook.  An overlook with sweeping views into the Kīlauea Iki Crater’s hardened lava lake. 

Kilauea Iki Crater.  A volcanic crater next to Kilauea. A 4 mile hike descends down the crater rim to the crater floor. Start at the Kilauea Iki Trailhead hiking along counter clockwise. 

Thurston Lava Tube.  An ancient lava tube in a tropical fern forest. A trail leads hundreds of feet inside. It’s open 24 hours a day however its amber hued lights are only on from 8am - 8pm. The lava tube is accessible after a 5 minute walk from the Kīlauea Iki parking lot. 

Chain of Craters Road

A scenic road passing many volcanic craters, lava flows and trails leading to the coast. It starts near the Devastation Trail parking lot and ends where a lava flow overtook the road. 

Luamanu Crater.  The first crater on the right with a roadside lookout of it and the hardened lava flow. 

Puhimau Crater.  The second crater on the left with a roadside lookout. Come here to yell into it for the echo. 

Ko’oko’olau Crater.  A small overgrown crater on the right with a trail leading to a hardened lava flow. 

Hiiaka Crater.  A large overgrown crater on the left with a hardened lava flow from 1973. 

Mauna Ulu Eruption Trail.  A volcano trail at the end of a road with hardened lava covering it. It leads into the lava field with a lookout viewing the cinder cone created by the eruption. 

Keauhou Trail.  A 6.8 mile backcountry trail crossing the lava field towards the coast and other trails. Follow the lava rock piles to keep on the trails. 

Pu‘u Loa Petroglyphs.   An archeological area with thousands of petroglyphs carved into the hardened lava by ancient Hawaiians. The petroglyphs include human figures, dotted designs and circular formations. The area is surrounded by a boardwalk and accessible along the 1.4 mile Puna Coast Trail.

Kealakomo.   An observation deck and picnic area with views of the hardened lava fields, cinder cones and coast. 

Hōlei Sea Arch.  A 90ft high volcanic rock arch along the seaside cliffs at the end of the Chain of Craters Road. 

Kailua Kona 

A beach town on the Leeward side of the island with historic sights, seafood restaurants, tiki bars, Kona coffee farms and souvenir shops. The area has many nearby beaches and bays perfect for swimming, surfing, snorkeling and marine excursions. It’s a popular spot for tourists, though most stay at their resorts north and south of Kona. 

Hawaiian Cultural Sites

Pu’uhonua o Honaunau National Park.  The location of the former Hawaiian royal grounds. The archeological park includes reconstructed canoe houses and carved statues, original stone foundations, lava rock walls, a cemetery, fish ponds, palm groves and trails.

Pu’uhonua o Honaunau National Park Trails

• Pu’uhonua Trail.  The trail leading through the royal grounds and sights.

• Coastal Trail.  A trail leading from the visitor center to a coastal picnic area, past areological ruins and to the 1871 Trail.

• 1871 Trail.  A trail leading from the visitor center past many archeological sights and coastal rock formations. Sights include the abandoned and overgrown Kiʻilae Village, stone walls, temple ruins, sport ramps, cliffs and a lava tube.  

KamakahonuNational Monument.  The reconstructed home of Kamehameha The Great, one of Hawaii’s most powerful kings. The monument is located on a small peninsula at Kamakahonu Beach. 

Hulihe‘e Palace.  A royal summer house used by Hawaii’s royalty during the 17th Century. It’s now a museum with Hawaiian artifacts. 

Surfing & Beaches

Old Airport Beach.  A long white sand and palm lined beach along Kona’s old airport runway. The water is not safe for swimming due to shallow coral reefs. It’s a popular spot for surf lessons. I took a private lesson here with Kona Town Surf Adventures. 

Kamakahonu Beach.  A small white sand beach in downtown Kona for swimming, snorkeling and kayaking. Kona Boys Beach Shack rents hourly and daily equipment. There’s also a beach bar at the hotel.

Magic Sands Beach.  A small white sand beach popular for watching the sunset, body surfing and boogie boarding in the waves. 

Snorkeling & Sailing 

The Big Island is a home to an array of scenic coastal sights and underwater marine life. We booked two snorkeling trips with Sea Paradise on their large ocean catamaran.

Kona Snorkel Tour.  A leisurely half day sailing tour along the Kona coast with snorkeling stops in two bays. The tour included snorkeling gear, lunch and cocktails for purchase. The friendly crew pointed out important Hawaiian sights and kept us entertained with their sea themed Disney playlist. 

• Keawekāheka Bay.  A bay with deep blue water, coral reefs and schools of fish. 

• Kealakekua Bay.  A bay near the Captain Cook Monument with an area of healthy and recovering coral reefs home to many species of fish. Spotted spinner dolphins swim through the bay in pods and jumping above the surface in their emblematic spinning motion. 

Manta Ray Night Snorkel.  A nighttime snorkel tour to watch manta rays feed on plankton. Fitted with wetsuits and snorkels, we held onto an illuminated platform face down in the water. As we watched, swarms of plankton drawn to the light attracted the attention of 3 manta rays. They began gracefully swooping up to feed on the plankton, gradually getting closer to the surface. After about 30 minutes, the gentle giants swooped upwards within inches of our faces, showing off their impressive 10ft wingspans. It was possibly one of the most unbelievable experiences to witness. 

Pro Tip.  Don’t try taking photos, just be present and enjoy the moment. Photo credit courtesy of Sea Paradise. 

Kona Coffee

Coffee is easily grown on the lush volcanic slopes in the Kona region. There are hundreds of coffee producing farms here, offering tours and tastings throughout the week. We toured Hala Tree Coffee Farm, learned about Kona coffee, the growing, harvesting and the roasting process, then tasted multiple brews. 

Places to Eat & Drink in Kona

Kona Brewing Company.  The famous Hawaiian brewery known for its Big Wave Golden Ale and Longboard Lager. Come here to enjoy brews only served at their tap room and restaurant. We sampled two flights from their “Backyard Batch” and “Pints of Paradise” menus along with a Hawaiian pizza baked with pineapple and bbq sauce. 

Huggo’s.  A long running romantic seaside restaurant overlooking the Kailua Bay with tiki torches and live music. The menu features Hawaiian dishes like garlic shrimp, seared sesame tuna and macadamia nut encrusted ono. The mixologists serve class tiki cocktails and tropical concoctions. One item not to be missed is their coconut cake!

Huggo’s on the Rocks.  A bar next door to Huggo’s with a pupus menu, tiki drinks and live music.

Cheeky Tiki Kona.  A waterfront tiki bar with a second floor dining room overlooking Kailua Bay. The menu has over two dozen cocktails served in tiki mugs, bowls and fresh pineapples. The cocktails are noted by strength. Try the Zombie, Mai Tai, Painkiller or Scorpion Bowl. The pupus menu has sharables like mac nut shrimp, ahi tuna poke, kimchi fried rice and fish tacos. Order the off menu fish collar. 

Magics Beach Grill.  An oceanfront restaurant next to Magics Beach with a seafood specialties and tropical cocktails. Try the poke nachos made with raw tuna and wonton chips, the seared tuna steak, kimchi fried rice and mai tais. 

HiCO Coffee.  A coffee shop brewing local kona coffee. Try some local flavors like ube latte and crab musubi. 

The City of Hilo 

Hilo is the largest city on the Big Island and lesser traveled to by tourists. It has a local feel and a historic center with an artistic and bohemian edge. It’s a central location for shopping at markets and boutiques or dining at a range of cafes, restaurants and bars. 

Kamehameha Ave.  The road along the bay with painted wooden and Art Deco buildings home to various shops selling surf supplies, ukuleles, clothing, jewelry and souvenirs.

Kamehameha The Great Statue.  A gold and black statue of the Hawaiian king dedicated to his life and legacy.

Keawe St.  A street with murals, restaurants, bars, antique shops and resale stores. 

• PineapplesIsland Fresh Cuisine.  A restaurant with Hawaiian dishes like coconut & panko encrusted ono, furikake seasoned shrimp and cocktails served in pineapples. There’s live music from Thursday to Sunday. 

• Booch Bar.  Come here for the house brewed Kombucha, kombucha cocktails and vegan dishes. Try the tempeh reuben and tempeh BLT.

• Puna Chocolate.  A chocolate shop and cafe specializing in locally grown chocolates, macadamia nuts, coffee and dried fruit.

Friday Night Market.  A popular Friday Night market on Keawe St. with live music, food trucks and vendors selling locally made snacks, jewelry, clothes and artwork. Visit during Black & White Night, held during the first Friday Night Market of the month. Locals dress in black and white as a low key nod to a black tie event. 

Rainbow Falls.  An 80ft tall waterfall over a hardened lava cave. A rainbow can be seen in the mist above the falls in the early morning as the sun is rising. In Hawaiian lore, the cave was the home of the demigod Maui’s mother.

The Town of Pāhoa

A small town with hippie vibes, colorful wooden buildings and an old boardwalk with restaurants, craft stores and galleries. It’s located nearby public black sand beaches and hardened lava fields. The town is 30 minutes south of Hilo. Many hitchhikers and skateboarders congregate around here. 

Places to Eat & Drink in Pāhoa

Pele's Kitchen.  A heath foods cafe with a colorful painted interior, tropical fruit platters, pancakes, omelettes & vegan dishes. Come here for breakfast. 

Bananarama Bakery.  A bakery with pastries and breads. Try the macadamia nut banana bread. 

Puna Kai Shopping Center.  A new shopping center in Pāhoa with restaurants, cafes, shops, a grocery store and bi-weekly markets and events.

Kohoa Coffee.  A coffee shop in the Puna Kai Shopping Center with a drive-through window. 

Coco Cantina.  A Mexican and tropical fusion restaurant. Try the coconut shrimp, ono ceviche and road to Pāhoa cocktail (essentially a rum punch). 

Black Sand Beaches 

Pohoiki Back Sand Beach.  The island’s newest black sand beach formed during the 2018 eruption. The beach has a mixture of soft sand, tumbled lava rocks and large boulders. The stong currents and large waves make it unsafe for swimming. There are volcanic springs called “hot pots” along the tree line. 

Kehena Black Sand Beach.  A nude beach hidden below a roadside cliff with soft black sand. The stong currents and large waves make it unsafe for swimming. Vendors selling crepes and fresh coconuts set up nearby the parking lot above the cliff. 

The Town of Honomu 

A small town with a colorful western vibe, old wooden buildings and a boardwalk. The main street is home to bakeries, antique shops, a church and abandoned buildings. It’s located 20 minutes north of Hilo nearby Akaka Falls and Hawaii Zip-lines. 

Akaka Falls.  A 442ft tall waterfall spilling down the center of a mossy cliff within the lush tropical forest. It’s accessible by a paved trail that loops through the forest with an overlook. There is a fee to enter the trail and to park in the parking lot. 

Mana’s Aloha Farms.  A farm stand minutes away from Akaka Falls with fresh coconuts, pineapples and sugarcane.

Mr Ed’s Bakery.  A bakery with pastries, toasts, coffee and poi bowls. Try the Guava Bearclaw and Ensemada.

Hawaii Zip-line Tours.  A scenic zip-line course with 7 lines through farmland, across ravines and over waterfalls. Our favorite zip-lines went through a row of banana trees and over a half mile across a ravine with views of Kolekole Falls, a 250ft waterfall. We even got to sample freshly picked bananas. Reserve Online. 

Kaʻū, The South Coast

Kaʻū is a mostly rural and remote area of the island with rugged terrain, farmland and beaches. We visited two beaches along the South Coast during our drive from Pāhoa to Kona. 

Punaluʻu Black Sand Beach.  One of the most famous black sand beaches in Hawaii with a jet black shore, palm trees and nesting sea turtles. It’s safe for swimming and snorkeling with life guards. There is a beach kiosk selling t-shirts, sunblock and freshly harvested coconuts. 

Papakolea Beach (Mahana Beach).  A remote green sand beach located in a cliffside bay. The beach gets its green tint from tiny sand-like crystals known as olivines. The deep blue water is rough but swimmable. We even spotted a sea turtle. To get here, park uphill from the Kaulana Boat Ramp at the end of South Point Road. From here we hiked 3 miles through dry grassland and sandy trenches carved by trucks and ATVs. Alternatively, locals with pickup trucks offer roundtrip transit to the beach for $20. 

Southernmost Point.  The southernmost point in Hawaii with steep cliffs and sunset views overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Come here for sunsets!

Kohala, The North Coast

Kohala is a remote region of the island’s North Coast defined by its verdant landscapes, desert-like terrain, pristine beaches and farmland. The best way to experience it is on a Helicopter Tour!

Helicopter Tour. We toured the most remote stretches of Kohala region by helicopter. Starting in Kona, we flew north over hardened lava flows, cinder cones, volcanic craters, collapsed lava tubes and gulches. From above, turquoise bays, green golf courses & seaside communities stood out from the dry arid landscape and cattle ranches.

As we flew further north, the landscape and climate transitioned. It became cloudy, rainy and lush. We even saw a full circle rainbow! We flew into picturesque valleys covered in dense greenery, with trickling waterfalls and black sand beaches. The North Shore coastline is characterized by sheer cliffs, rocky outcrops, crashing waves and white caps. Helicopter tours range from regional flights to full island tours. We booked with Paradise Helicopters. 

Pauko Petroglyph Park.  An archeological park with over 3,000 petroglyphs carved into lava rock dating back 800 years. From the parking lot, a rocky trail leads through overgrown bush past various petroglyphs, a small cave and ends at a loop around a large lava flow covered in two dimensional human figures. The carved figures range is size, groupings and poses. 

Kaunaʻoa (Mauna Kea) Beach.  A crescent shaped beach with pale white sand and calm aquamarine water at the Mauna Kea Resort. We spent a half day here sun bathing, swimming and snorkeling. The reef is located near the rocks along the south end of the beach. Sadly the coral isn’t very healthy. We later enjoyed a few cocktails at the beach bar at the resort on the north end of the beach. The resort rents umbrellas, lounges, kayaks, stand up paddles and surf boards. Parking is free but limited to 40 cars per day. Arrive before 8am to get a spot. 

Seafood Bar and Grill.  A tiki style bar & restaurant with a Hawaiian seafood dishes and a tropical cocktail menu. Try the furikake calamari, the pineapple mac-nut slaw, grilled fish sandwich and mai tai. 

Big Island Farmers Markets

The Big Island is home to dozens of farmers markets held throughout the week. All of which have vendors selling a range of local produce, homemade goods, products and tasty meals. 

Hilo Farmers Market.  A daily farmers market with sheds of vendors selling tropical fruits, vegetables, mushrooms, flowers, plants, clothing, jewelry and souvenirs. There are two cafes with coffee, shaved ice, smoothies, acai fruit bowls and poke. The market is loocated in downtown Hilo. 

Maku'u Farmers Market.  A Sunday morning farmers market with up to 150 tents and vendors selling locally grown produce and goods like preserves, cheese, honey, vanilla, coffee, macadamia nuts, fresh caught fish, coconut milk and juices. Cooks sell sweet & savory baked goods, fried snacks & full meals, poke and shaved ice. Located between Pāhoa and Hilo. 

Ho'oulu Farmers Market.  A craft and farmers market with vendors selling locally grown produce and items made from local materials like soaps, candles, jewelry, artwork and souvenirs. It’s located South of Kona outside of the Outrigger Kona Resort. The market operates on Wednesday and Friday between 9am - 2pm.

Hawaiian Cuisine

The flavors of the Hawaiian islands are as enticing as the sights. While here, we feasted on pacific seafood, tropical fruits and tiki cocktails.

• Poke.  A seafood dish made with pieces of raw tuna on a bed of rice and covered in a thick umami sauce.

• Pupus. A Hawaiian appetizer or small plate. Most restaurants have a menu of them to choose from. Order them solo before a meal or several of them tapas style as the meal. 

• Ono (Wahoo). A local white fish and a favorite at restaurants across the Big Island. It has a delicious taste, dense texture and flaky meat. It’s commonly served grilled or coconut encrusted. 

• Ube.  Purple sweet potato. It’s often served mashed as a side or in sweet deserts. 

• Musubi.  A rice patty with glazed spam (vegan or traditional) wrapped in seaweed and garnished in Furikake.

• Furikake.  A widely used seasoning made from seaweed, dried fish flakes, sesame seeds, salt and sugar. It’s garnished on snack mixes and savory dishes. 

• Banana Bread.  Commonly baked with macadamia nuts, sold at farmers markets, bakeries and cafes.

• Tropical Fruit.  Pineapple, papaya, mango, starfruit, banana, lychee, passion fruit, guava & rambutan are all commonly grown and sold at farmers markets across the island. 

• Shaved Ice.  Seen at food trucks, farmers markets and cafes. This popular treat is served all day long. Try the tropical favors like coconut, pineapple or guava. 

• Mai Tais.  A tropical cocktail on nearly every drink menu in Hawaii made with rum, lime and orgeat syrup. 

• Kona Coffee.  Coffee made from beans grown specifically within the Kona region. 

Places to Stay

We spent over a week on The Big Island, splitting our time equally between Hilo in the east and Kona in the west. 

Lava Sanctuary.  Surrounded by hardened lava flows and craggily black rock sat a wooden tiny house with a corrugated tin roof. It was our home for the first half of our trip on The Big Island. The remote stay was located in Kalapana Gardens, a small off-the-grid community about 45 minutes south of Hilo. The house was part of a Lava Sanctuary with two tiny homes and a meditation center. It was comfortable and spacious stay with a lofted bed, small deck and wide windows overlooking the lava field. Book on Airbnb. 

Kona “Tree House”.  Surrounded by lush trees above a converted garage was our home for the second half of our trip. The “Tree House” was Hawaiian style with a warm wooden exterior, bamboo ceilings and a floral patterned furniture. From the windows and balcony we could look upon the twisting limbs and green canopy of the trees. It had a cozy feeling of being in nature while being close to central Kona. Book on Airbnb.

Location Specifics 

Hawaiian Culture.  Be respectful of the island and Hawaiian culture. 

Hiking Trails.  Follow trails markers and signs while hiking.

Sea Turtles.  Do not approach or touch any sea turtles. 

Lava Rocks.  Do not take lava rocks from the island.

Coral Reefs.  Only wear reef safe sunblock when going in the water.

Produce.  You cannot take any produce back to the mainland. 

Getting Around

By Air. There are two main airports, one in Hilo and another in Kona.

By Car.  The most efficient way to explore The Big Island is by renting a car at one of the airports. 

Coastal Roads.  Wrap around most of the island, except remote areas of the North Shore.

The Saddle Road.‍ ‍A scenic road crossing the center of the island between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa Volcanos.

For Next Time… 

Mauna Kea Volcano.  Visit the summit and astronomical observatories of the Big Island’s tallest volcano. 

Island Hopping.  Visit other islands in the Hawaiian archipelago including Maui and Kauai. 

Marseille Travel Guide: Calanques, Vieux-Port & Mediterranean Culture

Marseille, France’s Second City

Marseille, France’s Second City, has a certain “je ne sais quoi” to its beauty, grittiness and old world charm. The city streets are lined with historic buildings and graffitied alleys while its seaside is defined by Mediterranean blues, rugged cliffs and fishing boats.

Mediterranean Influences  

Marseille is a historic port city located along the Mediterranean Coast. It was founded over 2,600 years ago and is one of the oldest surviving cities in Europe. Throughout the ages, it has been a hub for goods including seafood, olives and grapes as well as transportation and immigration. Today, many North African immigrants call the city home and have integrated their own cultures into the French city. 

MuCEM (Museum of Civilizations of Europe and the Mediterranean).  The MuCEM is Marseille’s historic and cultural museum. It explores the civilization and anthropology of the European and nomadic people in the Mediterranean and Marseille’s importance both historically and in the present day. The museum displays various artifacts, painting, maps and contains permanent and temporary exhibits. The museum itself is a piece of art with a black filigreed concrete skin covering the building. The museum’s rooftop and cafe is a nice spot to relax in the shade provided by the unique shadows of the structure while overlooking the city’s historic port. Contrasting the museum is a pedestrian bridge connecting it to the medieval ruins of Fort St Jean. 

Explore the Neighborhoods

Vieux Port.  Easily the most recognizable feature of Marseille, this harbor in the city center is lined with hundreds of sailing and fishing boats. The surrounding buildings are home to many seafood restaurants serving the catch of the day and the iconic fish stew, bouillabaisse. Midway through the view port is a small ferry that connects both sides of the harbor departing every 15 minutes. 

Le Panier.  The historic quarter of Marseille with stepped sidewalks, narrow streets and lots of plants. It’s a quiet neighborhood a few blocks away from the Vieux Port with small shops, artist studios, graffiti and colorful murals. Walk down, Rue de Panier, a photogenic street with numerous boutiques and shops.

Cours Julien.  An artistic and grungy neighborhood recognizable by its graffitied buildings and iconic steps. Its streets are home to boutiques, vintage shops, cafes, bistros, bars and the Cours Julien Farmer’s Market. 

Cours Julien Farmer’s Market.  A small but bustling market is held every Wednesday morning in the plaza next to the Notre-Dame du Mont subway station. Locals purchase their weekly groceries as animated vendors shout from behind tables and musicians offer live performances. Vendor sell everything from meat, seafood, cheese, honey, jams, wine, fruits, produce, herbs, bread, flowers and soaps 

Good to Know.  Bring cash for making purchases. Bread is sold by the loaf or by weight.

Have a Picnic 

Fresh from the Cours Julien Farmer’s Market, we sat down on the lawn of the Jardins du Pharo for an afternoon picnic. We shared a half watermelon, bunch of grapes, custard tart, jammed cookie, stinky and herbal cheeses, bread and French wine. 

See the Sights

Fort Saint Jean. A medieval fort located near the entrance of the view port across from the MuCEM. We explored its stone ruins, lush gardens and took in its views of the harbor.

Eglise Saint Laurent.  A simple stone church built during the 12th century. It is a good example of other Mediterranean influences with its North African style bell tower and symmetrical Greek character. 

Cathédrale La Major.  A Byzantine style cathedral with a black and white striped stone facade, multiple domed bell towers, soaring arches and Christian symbols.

Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde Viewpoint.  A basilica located at the highest point in the city with panoramic views of Marseille and the coast. The cathedral and candle lit chapels below the sacristy are eerie but beautiful.

Palais & Jardins du Pharo.  A Neoclassical palace built for Napoleon on a green hillside overlooking The Mediterranean and the Vieux Port. Come here to picnic on the lawn or in the sculpture garden. 

Maison Empereur.  A 200 year old kitchenware and hardware store. Walking in the foot steps of Julia Child, we easily spent an hour exploring the two floors of interconnected rooms and packed aisles of copper cookware, kitchen gadgets and tall wooden displays.

The Calanques National Park 

The Calanques are home to costal rock formations, smalls islands and white limestone cliffs set against the deep blue Mediterranean Sea. They make up a national park stretching from Marseille towards Cassis. It’s is a rugged place to hike, explore ruins and find a beach to relax at with turquoise water swim in. 

Calanque de Sugiton Trail.  A coastal trail in The Calanques National Park leading to a hidden beach. The trail meanders along a series of limestone cliffs speckled with lush trees and green bushes, offering picturesque views of the Mediterranean Sea and dreamy wooden sailboats moored offshore.

Calanque de Sugiton Beach.  A narrow bay with a pebbly beach nestled between two cliffs. Come here to lounge onshore, swim through the shades of deep blue and turquoise water and cliff ump from rocky islands into the bay.

Getting Here.  The Calanques National Park is located about 40 minutes by car from the Vieux Port of Marseille. Drive and park at the Cité Universitaire Luminy. From here, forested roads and trails lead deeper into The Calanques National Park.  

Good to Know.  There is no specific route to reach Sugiton Beach. Use this Map Pin to locate the Sugiton Trail Head andthis Map Pin to locate the Sugiton Beach. Follow the meandering trails in-between, planning to hike anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour. 

Îles du Frioul.  An archipelago off the coast of Marseille comprised of four islands and jagged rock formations.

• Île Ratonneau.  The most developed island with a small town and sail boat dotted marina. Hiking trails lead across its dry and aired terrain to abandoned military structures, panoramic viewpoints and beaches.

• Fort de Ratonneau.  The ruins of a hilltop military fortress with panoramic views of The Calanques, Mediterranean and Marseille. 

• Plage de Saint-Estève.  A beautiful beach with a large turquoise cove and swimmable waters. Its an ideal spot to cool off and relax after hiking across the island. 

• Chateau de If.  A rocky island with a 16th century fort, later transformed into a prison. It’s said to have inspired Alexandre Dumas, The Count of Monte Cristo. We didn’t have time to visit the island but were able to admire it from the ferry and neighboring island. 

Getting Here.  Îles du Frioul and Chateau de If are both reachable by ferry from the Vieux Port in Marseille, making for the perfect day trip. Le Bateau offers daily transfers and tours. Tickets can be purchased from the pier near the MuCEM or online. 

Cuisine a la Marseillaise

The cuisine in Marseille is influenced by Provincial and Mediterranean ingredients resulting in a unique palette of flavors. Being a port city, it is especially known for its seafood.

Bouillabaisse.  A seafood stew typically made with the daily catch including a mixture of whole of filleted white fish, shellfish and shrimp. The seafood is prepared in a broth seasoned with saffron, tomato and other ingredients.

Moules Marinières. Steamed mussels cooked in a sauce made from white wine, butter, garlic, parsley and shallots. It’s typically served with frites, sliced baguette and house made mayonnaise.

Ratatouille.  A Provincial vegetable dish is made from a stewed or roasted combination of eggplant, zucchini, yellow squash and tomato. 

Tapenade. An olive, garlic, caper and anchovy spread. We often enjoyed it on croissant or baguette. 

Pizza. A popular flatbread made with Mediterranean toppings like olives, anchovies and tomato.

Apple Tarte Tatin.  A classic French dessert with apple caramelized in butter and sugar on a bed of flaky puff pastry.

Crepes Sucre.  A sweet crepe often folded and sprinkled in sugar with a side of orange marmalade.

Meringue.  One of the classic French patisserie we saw all over the city! Egg whites whipped with sugar and baked into sweet delicate cookies. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Au Doyen. A seafood restaurant where we ate our first meal in France, moules marinières with frites and rosé. 

Le Miramar.  One of the higher end restaurants along the Vieux Port specializing in Bouillabaisse. In true French style, it prides itself on its preparation, presentation and authenticity. Read more about their recipe here. 

Les Arcenaulx.  An elegant restaurant inside of the library styled dining room with stone walls, timber beams and a large wine selection 

La Crêpe au Carré. A creperie offering sweet and savory crepes. Try the buttery and sugary Crepes Sucre. 

Cafe de Arts.  A casual bistro facing the Vieux Port. Stop in for a pint of French beer and a late afternoon bite.

Boulangerie Gambetta.  A tiny bakery with sandwiches, pastries and bread. It’s a great place to buy a sandwich to takeaway in route to The Calanques.

Where to Stay

La Pension Edelweiss.  A bed and breakfast near the city center. From the outside, it looks like any other stone building with slim balconies and iron railings adorned with tiny planters. Once within, the interior feels uniquely French with a grand wooden staircase, high ceilings and large rooms all decorated in antique objects, mid-century furnishing and artwork. Make reservations online. 

Breakfast.  Each morning, the hotelier covered the dining table with a delicious spread of baguettes, croissants, hard boiled eggs, meats, cheeses, preserves, butter, tapenade, fresh coffee and orange juice. It was the most pleasant way to start the day and chat with other guests. 

Flowers.  We bought a bouquet of freshly cut sunflowers and displayed them in the empty wine bottles on the fireplace mantle in our hotel room.

Location Specifics 

Safety.  Marseille can be a little dodgy at times due to drug trafficking. The city center and Vieux Port are generally safe. Be mindful of your surroundings, especially later in the evenings. 

Airport Shuttle.  There is a regularly scheduled shuttle between the airport and St Charles Station central in Marseille. Tickets can be purchased from the office at both locations. 

Getting Around.  While Marseille is a large city, the city center and surrounding neighborhoods are easily walkable. 

Cash vs Credit.  Credit card is widely accepted across Marseille though carrying a small amount of cash is important for small transactions. 

Language.  French is the primary language in Marseille. Few people speak English or any other languages. Download Google Translate to help with conversations and interactions. 

French Wine.  It’s no surprise that you’ll find good wine just about anywhere in France. Most grocery stores have a sommelier on staff that will recommend a bottle based on how you plan to drink it. Even better, a nice bottle typically costs just a few Euros. 

Provincial Soaps.  Marseille is famous for its provincial soaps scented with local flowers, the most popular being lavender. They’re sold by the bottle in liquid form and in bars. 

For Next Time… 

We fell in love with this French city, even after only spending a few days here. When we return, we want to continue exploring the Marseille and venture out into the region including the countryside of Provence and the cities of Nice and Montpellier. 

Paris Travel Guide: Eiffel Tower, Montmartre & Romantic Experiences

Paris, The City of Love

Paris, the City of Love, is an enchanting place! Cafes and bistros spill onto the sidewalks of cobblestone streets and grand avenues. The scent of fresh bread wafts from boulangeries as colorful patisseries fill shop windows. Lively markets are brimming with with everything from local produce to antiques and books. Historic monuments and world renowned museums celebrate French culture, arts and history. The River Seine gracefully meanders between Arrondissements while the Eiffel Tower stands prominently above it all. Paris holds a special place in our hearts as the city where we got engaged on our first visit. One phrase we can’t say enough is "Je t'aime Paris.” 

Our Engagement

On our first night in Paris, we dined at Les Ombres, overlooking the Eiffel Tower, beginning with wine on the terrace. As the sun set and a full moon rose, the tower suddenly began to sparkle, drawing us back outside where we stood alone, taking in the view. In that quiet, magical moment, Devin reflected on our life together before pulling out a small box containing a grape soda pin from Pixar’s Up and a delicate white gold ring and asked me to marry him. Through happy tears, I said yes as he slipped the ring onto my finger and pinned the badge to my lapel. We celebrated with champagne and dessert, then strolled to the Eiffel Tower, eventually ascending to the top where we admired Paris glowing around us. Toasting with sparkling rosé at the summit, newly engaged and overlooking the city, felt like a perfect and unforgettable fairy tale.

An Parisian Photoshoot 

On a separate trip to Paris, we hired a photographer to capture our love for each other and the city. We met as the sun lifted above the horizon, posing for photos against the backdrop of the Eiffel Tower on cobblestone streets, the riverfront and its bridges. The golden sunrise, amber toned leaves and freshly repainted bronze structure made for a romantic autumn activity. Book a 1 Hour Couples Session with Sofiane on Airbnb.

Montmartre

Montmartre is a neighborhood that embodies Parisian charm. Its picturesque streets are paved in cobble stones, lined with historic buildings and ivy covered homes. Its lively bistros flow out onto the sidewalks while pastry shops lure in passersby for a sweet. As the day turns to night, its bars stay open late serving French wines and cocktails while the cabarets put on performances and shows. French artists including Van Gogh, Degas and Toulouse Lautrec once lived here while modern day artists continue to call it home. 

Basilica of Sacre-Coeur.  A Byzantine style basilica with a large white dome located on the hill in the center of Montmartre. It’s a symbol of the neighborhood and city. The prayer hall can be freely entered when open while the dome is can be visited for a fee. A series of spiral staircases and outdoor walkways lead along the roof to the interior of the dome with panoramic views of Paris.

Rue Lepic.  A winding cobblestone street on a steep incline with patisseries, chocolate shops, florists, fromageries, a seafood market, cafes, wine bars, many bistros and residences. It’s most notable sight is the Moulin Radet, one of two historic windmills remaining in Montmartre. 

Boulevard de Clichy.  A tree lined boulevard with a pedestrian walkway at its center. Both sides of the boulevard are lined with bars, restaurants, sex shops and cabernets including the Moulin Rouge, the famous venue with a red windmill. 

Place du Tertre.  A bustling plaza known for its artists and bistros. It’s surrounded by restaurants that spill onto the sidewalk and into the center of the plaza. Artists sell Parisian themed art, brush colorful stokes across canvases and draw portraits of patient customers. Wafts of cigarette smoke, the smell of butter and music from accordion players fill the air.

Rue de Martyrs.  A lengthy market street with hundreds of bistros, cafes, boutiques, boulangeries, fromageries, patisseries and markets selling meats, seafoods, fruits, vegetables, coffee and chocolates.

Staircases of Montmartre.  Montmartre is known as the “neighborhood on the hill” and the highest natural point in Paris. Many tall staircases with unique vantage points cut through the neighborhood making it easy, though at times tiring, to get around on foot.

Rue de l’Abreuvoir.  One of the most picturesque streets in Paris with ivy covered houses, colorful buildings and a view overlooking Sacré-Coeur.

Rue de Abbesses.  A street lined with restaurants, coffee shops, boulangeries and boutiques ending at a plaza with a carousel and cathedral.

I Love You Wall.  A blue tiled wall with “I love you” written in hundreds of languages.

Clos Montmartre.  A small hillside vineyard and the last remaining one in Paris. It produces about 1,000 bottles of wine a year.

Fête de Vendanges (Wine Harvest Festival).  The yearly wine harvest festival held every October in Montmartre around the steps leading up to the Basilica of Sacre-Coeur. The multi day festival features dozens of wine makers from regions all over France including Clos Montmartre. Order by the glass at different tents or do as locals do and buy a bottle to share. In addition to wine makers, there are food stalls, performers, a parade and fireworks. The festival is free to enter.

Arrondissements & Neighborhoods 

Including Montmartre, Paris is broken up into 20 Arrondissements (Arr.) Starting in the center of the city and spiraling out like a snail shell. Different neighborhoods correspond to and overlap multiple Arrondissements.

Le Marais.  Located in the 4th Arr. This is oldest Parisian neighborhood and the center of the LGBTQ+ community. Known for its cobblestone streets, stately architecture, courtyards, cafes, cocktail bars and vintage shopping.

Latin Quarter.  Located in the 5th Arr. A university neighborhood, this area of Paris is popular for its bars, cabarets and distance from large tourist attractions.

Saint Germain des Pres.  Located in the 6th Arr. This neighborhood is home to many bookshops, galleries, cafes and design shops.

10th Arrondissement.  A quiet neighborhood lining the Canal Saint Martin with plenty restaurants to eat at and street art to spot. We stayed here in an Airbnb that was once a bakery operated by nuns. 

2nd Arrondissement.  Known for its arcades, boutiques, fine dining and cocktail bars. The neighborhood is worth wandering and getting lost in.

Visit the Sights

The Eiffel Tower.  You can’t visit Paris without seeing to the Eiffel Tower. It’s the symbol of the city and one of the most recognizable sights in the world. The tower has three levels. The first two are accessible by stair and elevator. Take the elevator up and the stairs down, making for a leisurely and twisting descent through one of the tower’s legs. Both floors have incredible views of the inner structure and iron lattices of the tower as well as a number of restaurants, shops and a Macaron Bar. The tiniest elevator leads to the third level at the top of the tower and highest point in Paris. The nighttime views are absolutely stunning! Every amber glowing light and illuminated landmark in Paris twinkles. The top floor is home to Gustave Eiffel’s Laboratory and a Champagne Bar serving flutes of sparkling rosé. Reserve tickets online for a specific time slot at least two weeks in advance.

Picnic in Champ de Mars.  A large park in front of the Eiffel Tower and perfect spot for picnicking. Bring a blanket and assortment of provisions like French bread, cheeses, fruits and wine. Accordion players serenade couples while vendors sell roses, champagne and statuettes of the Eiffel Tower.

Pro Tip.  Picnic during the daytime. Many rats scamper through the park at night, distracting from the romantic allure and atmosphere. 

Sainte Chapelle.  A highly ornamented gothic chapel dating back to the middle of the 13th century. It’s rebounded for its massive purple hued stained glass windows, gold leafed arches, vaulted ceilings and stone facade. Book tickets online at least two weeks before visiting. 

Arc de Triomphe.   A magnificent arc and Napoleonic era war monument on the Champs-Élysées. It features four pillars, each marked by sculpted statues and reliefs of France’s military victories. A 284 step spiral staircase ascends to a museum and rooftop with panoramic views of Paris and the city’s spoke-like avenues. 

The Catacombs.  A macabre labyrinth of subterranean tunnels are home to the skeletal remains of over 7 million people. It’s truly an underworld of the dead. Its dimly lit and damp passageways are lined with layers of stacked femurs and skulls holding back smaller bones. The skulls, some artfully arranged into patterns like hearts and crosses, seemed to watch us as we wandered through. The catacombs wind hundreds of kilometers below Paris with just more than 1 kilometer open to visitors. Book online at least one week out at the Official Ticket Office. An audio guide is included with the ticket.

See Some Art

With a rich culture surrounding art and artists, Paris is the best place in the world to learn about art history and see some of the world’s masterpieces. 

Musee de’ L'Orangerie.   An Impressionist art museum built specifically to display a large collection of Monet’s Water Lilies and other impressionist paintings. 

The Louvre Pyramid.  A glass pyramid residing in the plaza of The Louvre, the world’s most famous art museum. We plan to explore its vast galleries on a future trip to Paris.

Centre Pompidou.   A contemporary art museum built “inside out” with all the building’s equipment, escalators and corridors exposed leaving more room for gallery space inside. The museum has since closed and is planned to reopen in 2030 after renovations. 

Stravinsky Fountain.  A landmark fountain across from the Centre Pompidou with a series colorful sculptures spraying water into the pool below. The fountain itself is surrounded by a series of large murals. 

Things To Do

Visit an Arcade.  The arcades of Paris are covered passageways defined by their ornate glass ceilings, mosaic and stone tiled floors, antique store fronts and warmly illuminated boutiques and cafes.

• Galerie Vivienne.  One of Paris’s most iconic arcades, known for its elegant storefronts and mosaic tile floor. Enjoy a coffee at Le Valentin Vivienne while taking in the splendor of the arcade. 

• Les Passages Couverts.  A series of hidden shopping arcades in the 2nd Arrondissement. They’re fun to discover and walk through. 

• Passages des Panoramas.   Paris’ oldest arcade, dating back well over 200 years. It has a refined and aged character true to Parisian charm. 

Shop for Books.  Buy a book from one of these classic locations!

• Les Bouquinistes.  A series of outdoor booksellers with green cabinets and displays of French language books set up along the banks of the Seine. 

• Shakespeare and Company.  One of the world’s most famous book stores, often depicted in movies and shows. They’re extremely popular, don’t allow photos indoors and only sell English books. 

• Galerie Vivienne.  The iconic gallery is home to multiple book stores selling antique French books. 

Walk in Julia Child’s Foot Steps.   If you admire Julia Child as much as us, visit some of her old haunts: 

• Les Deux Magots.  A historic brasserie where Julia Child and her husband, Paul Child, often ate. Come here for a leisurely brunch and range of French dishes. 

• E Dehellerin.  A 200+ year old kitchen supply store where Julia Child used to shop for knives, copper dishes and various “batterie de cuisine.

• Rue Montorgueil.  A vibrant market street where Julia Child would shop for produce and meats. Today its lined with food markets, boulangeries, fromageries, patisseries, old world bars, restaurants and cafes.

Shop at a Market.  Walk through the stalls of an actual French market like Marché de Enfants Rouge, Paris’ oldest food market with an array of stalls and vendors selling prepared meals, fresh fruits, vegetables, cheeses, meats and seafood. There are a number of tiny shops surrounding the market selling rustic and vintage items. 

See The Seine.  A lengthy river meandering through the heart of Paris. Dozens of bridges connect the right and left banks of the city while cobblestone walkways and iconic landmarks line both sides. It’s a relaxing place to sit on a bench, picnic under a tree or dangle your legs over the river’s edge and watch the boats float by. Book a Champagne Cruise at sunset with Bateaux Mouche to experience the city in a different light. Cruises are often touristy and crowded but it didn’t distract from the charm of Paris. 

Taste Everything!

To quote Julia Child, “people who love to eat are always the best people.” This couldn’t be truer than with the French. 

Sit at a Sidewalk Cafe.  Practically a French pastime, enjoy a meal at a sidewalk cafe overlooking the Parisian streets and plazas. 

• La Cremaillère.  A restaurant in the Place du Tertre with traditional French dishes and wine. Come for the French onion soup, moules-frites and salmon with béarnaise sauce.

• Breizh Cafe.  A cafe with an extensive menu of sweet crepes and savoy galettes. Try the crepe suzette! 

• Cafe Charlot.   A small corner bistro with sidewalk dining room. It’s a lovely spot to sit for breakfast or brunch and enjoy a lazy morning. 

A Parisian Pastry Crawl.  The French are well known for their love of pastries. We visited multiple boulangeries and patisseries across the city, tasting apple tarte tatin, pain au chocolate, madeleines, eclairs, brioche and macarons. 

• Les Petits Mitrons.  A classic French pastry shop located on Rue Lepic in Montmartre with an elegant selection of fruit tarts, savory quiche and cookies. 

• Boulangerie Mimoune.  A bakery with rustic French breads and delicate French pastries.

• Boulangerie Les Deux Frères.  A boulangeries on a corner of Montmartre with a large selection of breads, pastries and quiche.

• Du Pain et des Idées.  A famed bakery, known for their pistachio chocolate escargot pastries, named for the pastry’s shell shaped swirl. 

• Paul.  A coffee shop chain with locations across Paris. Come here for coffees, pastries, sandwiches and breads.

Dine at the Bistros.  Paris is one of the culinary capitals of the world home to tiny bistros, famed restaurants and local haunts.  

• Les Ombres.  The restaurant we we got engaged on our first trip to Paris! A fine dining restaurant serving contemporary French cuisine. It’s dining room is enclosed in a fragmented glass structure inspired by the shadows of the Eiffel Tower while its rooftop terrace offers some of the city’s best views of the iconic landmark. Make reservations and come at sunset! 

• L’Escargot.  Serving the their namesake since 1832, this old world restaurant is known for their Burgundy snails served in the shell.

• Café des Deux Moulins.  A beloved French bistro in Montmartre with a warmly lit interior and lively terrace made famous by the movie Amelie. Come for omelettes and escargot at lunch. 

• Brasserie Floderer.  A classic French restaurant known for its historic ambience, seafood dishes and extensive wine selection. 

• Déviant. A tiny kitchen serving serving elegant small plates paired with French wines. Dine at their standing bar inside or at the sidewalk bistro. 

• La Mascotte.  A historic restaurant in Montmartreserving elevated seafood dishes like butter and lemon sole, turbot encrusted in seaweed and some of the city’s tastiest oysters paired with champagne. 

Sip on French Spirits.  While known for its wine, France produces of the finest spirits including absinthe, chartreuse, cognac and cointreau.

• Marlusse et Lapin.  A small and funky cocktail bar with an apartment like feeling that spills out onto the street. Come for the flamed absinthe drip cocktail.

• Le Syndicat.  A speakeasy style cocktail bar previously rated at one of the top 50 bars in the world. Come here for their signature and classic cocktails made using French spirits. 

French Cuisine 

Beef Bourguignon.  A beef stew cooked with carrots, potatoes, mushrooms, bacon, garlic and pearl onions in a red wine sauce.  

Coq au Vin.  A cousin to Beef Bourguignon but made with chicken instead. 

Cassoulet.  A savory white bean stew cooked with sausage, onion and garlic. 

Nicoise Salad.  A salad originating from the coastal city of Nice. It’s a hardy salad made with a combination of tomatoes, hard boiled eggs, olives, tuna, anchovies, green beans, potatoes and red onions over a bed of lettuce. 

Tartare.  A classic French dish of minced raw meat, typically steak or tuna, mixed with herbs and presented in a puck shaped disk.

Ratatouille.  A provincial style vegetable stew made using diced or sliced pieces of eggplant, zucchini and tomato then seasoned with herbs.

French Onion Soup.  A beef broth soup made with caramelized onions, topped with croutons and broiled cheese. 

Escargot.  Snails cooked in a copious amount of butter, garlic and parsley or tarragon. They’re typically served in the shell or in a porcelain baking dish with toasted pieces of baguette. They’re a delicacy on many menus in Paris.

Omelette.  A pan fried and folded envelope of eggs. French versions are custardy and lightly cooked until just formed together. It’s common to eat at lunchtime. 

Quiche.  A savory egg tart or pie baked with vegetables, herbs or meats. 

Gratin Dauphinois.  Thinly sliced potatoes baked in heavy cream. 

Pomme Frites.  Also known as French Fries. They’re a common side dish and typically served with mayonnaise. 

Croissant.  A crescent shaped pastry with layers of buttery and flakey crust. It comes in multiple versions including chocolate, raspberry and almond. 

Baguette.  A quintessentially French style of bread easily recognized by its long shape and 3 slice marks. Its beloved for its crunchy crust and chewy crumb. 

Tarte Tatin.  A tart or pie with a rich layer of caramelized apples. 

Crepes Suzette.  A folded and flamed crepe cooked in an orange sauce and orange liquor. 

Creme Brûlée.  A French vanilla custard with a flamed layer of hardened sugar on top. 

Wine.  France is world renowned for its wines including Bordeaux, Burgundy, Cote de Rhone, Beaujoule and Champagne. Buy a bottle at a local market or pair a glass with any meal while dining out. 

Getting Around Paris

Metropolítaín (The Metro).  Beneath the streets of Paris is one of the world’s oldest metro systems, recognizable by its Art Nouveau entrances. In French fashion, the Metro was closed due to transit strikes both times we visited Paris. 

On Foot.  Paris is a lovely city to explore on foot and get lost in. Walk down the cobblestone streets, admire the historic architecture, wander along the Seine and stroll through lively plazas and parks.

Ride Shares.  Uber is common across Paris and often the quickest way of getting across the city and to the airport. City rides typically cost between €15-€20 while airport rides cost around €50.

French Words & Phrases 

While many Parisians speak English, they adore when foreigners try to speak French. Some of the most common words and phrases we used are: 

• Bonjour = Hello or Good morning

• Au revoir = Goodbye

• Bonsoir = Good evening

• Merci = Thank you

• Merci beaucoup = Thank you very much

• S’il vous plaît = Please

• De rien = You’re welcome

• Excusez-moi = Excuse me

• La carte, s’il vous plaît = The menu, please

• L’addition s’il vous plaît = The check, please

• Je voudrais… = I would like…

• Je t'aime = I love you

Places to Stay 

Montmartre Loft.  An elegant apartment on the 6th floor of a Parisian style residential building with stunning views of Montmartre’s rooftops and the Basilica of Sacre-Coeur. Reserve on Airbnb.

Old Bakery Loft.  A lofted vacation rental in a converted bakery. The cozy space opens up to the streets of Paris. It’s central location is walking distance to sidewalk cafes, bistros, art museums and landmark sights. Reserve on Airbnb. 

Next Time in Paris… 

Paris is always a good idea and were certain to return. Having been to Paris twice, we have yet to visit some of the most iconic sights including: 

Notre Dame.   The Gothic cathedral known for its rose windows, buttresses & gargoyles. We visited after the fire that nearly destroyed the landmark but were unable to enter its vast interior. 

The Palace of Versailles.  King Louis XIV’s famous palace and grounds. 

St. Ouen Flea Market. Paris’ most famous flea market for over 150 years with 3000+ merchants selling vintage items, antiques, artwork, books, furniture, etc.

Parc des Buttes Chaumont.  Picnic in the hilly & lush park and sip on rosé at Rosa Bonheur. 

See More Art:

• The Louvre.  The world’s most well known art museum, particularly for it’s collection of Da Vinci paintings like The Mona Lisa. The museum deserves a half to full day to explore but specific pieces can be seen in less time.

• Musee d’ Orsay.  An impressionist and art nouveau museum in a converted glass train station with works by Van Gogh, Monet, Renoir, Degas and Cézanne. 

• Musee Picasso.  A museum dedicated to Picasso with the largest collection of the artist’s works in the world. 

Southwestern Puerto Rico Travel Guide: Cabo Rojo, La Parguera & Beyond

Southwestern Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico’s southwestern region is home to some of the island’s most diverse landscapes and historic pueblos. The Caribbean coast features unspoiled beaches, protected marine reserves, a bioluminescent bay and pink salt flats. Hiking trails meander through the dry forest while scenic mountain roads reveal sweeping panoramic views of the region’s lush terrain. Historic mountain towns and vibrant pueblos provide rich cultural experiences and culinary delights. During adventures to the region, we’ve explored Cabo Rojo, San Germán, Lajas, Yauco and Guánica.

Cabo Rojo

Cabo Rojo is a picturesque corner of the island with pink salt flats, Caribbean beaches and turquoise waters. 

Cabo Rojo Salt Flats

The Cabo Rojo Salt Flats are famed for their bright pink and light blue hued salt ponds. Stop into the Visitor Center to learn about the salt flats indigenous beginnings, current uses and the surrounding ecosystem. Climb the 3 story tall Observation Tower for views overlooking the salt flats and their multihued ponds. Continue further down the road for access to the salt flats and the narrow pathways separating the ponds. 

Good to Know.  Read recent reviews to gauge the current level of pinkness and accessibility. 

Vamos a la Playa 

Cabo Rojo is home to some of Puerto Rico’s most pristine beaches and scenic coves. We’ve beach hopped along the coast on previous visits to the region. 

Playa El Combate.   A lengthy tan sand beach with swimmable aquamarine waters and a shaded tree line near the town of El Combate. The water’s higher salinity, due to nearby salt flats, makes floating effortless in the calm waters. The section closest to town tends to be livelier while the southern half provides a quiet and scenic escape. The town is home to small hotels, restaurants and bars making it a popular getaway for locals and families. 

Pro Tip.  Arrive before 9am to find free parking along the roadside. 

Buyé Beach.  An extremely popular beach with a narrow white sand shore, turquoise hued cove and shaded tree line. Locals gather for sunny beach days as groups of jet skiers race off shore. Music fills the air as speakers blast Bad Bunny and Reggaetón. The lively shoreline is lined with colorful cottages and beach kiosks serving Puerto Rican cuisine alongside tropical cocktails and local beers. Visit the Sunset Shack for mojitos!

Pro Tip.  Arrive before 9am to find free parking along the roadside or pay $10 at the lot leading to the beach. 

Playa Sucia.  A crescent shaped beach covered in soft white sand hugging a turquoise bay. The beach overlooks distant cliffs and the Faro Los Morrillos Lighthouse. It’s a popular beach despite being semi-remote. Bring your own food, snacks and water for the day as there are no nearby kiosks or vendors. 

Pro Tip.  Like the other beaches, arrive early to find parking and a shaded spot under the tree line. 

Nature Trails & Sights 

There are a few nature trails that weave through the salt flats and desert terrain surrounding the ponds. We spent about two hours hiking through them and exploring the area. When coming here, wear sun protection, bring a sturdy umbrella and plenty of water. 

Observation Tower Loop. A trail leading through the dry forest from the visitor center to an observation tower overlooking a large salt pond.

Ruins Trail.  A trail that cuts across two large salt ponds, past a piles of salt and smaller ponds. The trail ends at the sea and connects to the Observation Tower Loop and Bikes Trail.

Bikes Trail.  A lengthy trail that weaves throughout the salt flats and along Playa El Combate. It can be hiked but is frequently used by mountain bikers. 

Faro Los Morrillos Lighthouse.  A cliffside lighthouse with panoramic views of the Caribbean Sea. Nature trails lead from The Cabo Rojo Salt Flats and Playa Sucia across the peninsula, rock formations and steep jagged cliffs. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Buena Vibra.  A restaurant with innovative Caribbean dishes and seafood like a ceviche filled pineapple, mahi mahi stuffed avocados and coconut encrusted grouper. It’s one of the best restaurants we’ve dined at on the island! Meals are pricy but worth every dollar. 

San Germán Pueblo

San Germán Pueblo is a charming mountain town deeply rooted in Puerto Rican culture and history. Its origins date back nearly 500 years to the early Spanish colonial period, time of French corsairs and indigenous rebellions. The historic center is defined by red brick and cobblestone streets, treelined and manicured plazas, colorfully painted and stylized buildings. It’s home to local residences, municipal buildings, churches, museums and restaurants. 

Plaza San Germán.  A historic plaza at the center of San Germán Pueblo. It’s surrounded by colonial era and landmark buildings including the town hall, theater and church. 

Plaza Santo Domingo.  A tree lined and brick paved plaza with green benches, bronze busts and overhanging strings twinkle lights. It’s flanked by historic wooden homes, colorful buildings and the Porta Coeli.

El Convento de Santo Domingo de Porta Coeli.  A 400+ year old church converted into a museum of religious artwork. It features paintings and wooden artifacts like hand carved statues, the stations of the cross and a large reredos. It overlooks the Plaza Santo Domingo.

Casa Morales.  A landmark house with ornamental designs, a wrap around porch and wooden shutters. It’s a central feature of the Plaza Santo Domingo.

Parroquia San Germán de Auxerre.  A 300+ year old neoclassical church located at one end of the Plaza San Germán. 

Museo del la Historia de San Germán. A historical museum with largely written exhibits about the history of San Germán and Puerto Rico from pre colonial times to modern day. 

Ceiba de la Libertad.  A 100+ year old Ceiba tree planted to commemorate Puerto Rico’s right to self governance from Spain in 1897. 

Places to Eat & Drink

El Cubujon.  A popular cocktail bar and lounge specializing in signature cocktails and reenvisioned classics. Try their Daiquiri made with Puerto Rican rum or the Pina Buena made with clarified citrus punch and coconut oil. 

Me Latte un Pocillo.  A brunch cafe in the Plaza San Germánoffering Puerto Rican coffee and waffles, omelettes and sandwiches. Sit at their sole outdoor table, overlooking the plaza, listening to the musical sounds of the town’s church bells. 

Yí Restaurant.  A Caribbean restaurant serving a fusion of Haitian, creole and Puerto Rican cuisine. Order the stuffed Mofongo, fried plantain mash and Accra, a yautia and malanga fritter.

Bosque Estatal de Maricao

Bosque Estatal de Maricao isa tropical forest covering the mountains bordering San Germán and Maricao. Drive along Ruta Panoramica 120 from the town of Sabana Grande to the town of Maricao to experience it. Stop at La Torre de Piedra, a castle shaped stone tower on a mountainous ridge overlooking the forest.

Lajas 

Lajas is a coastal region of Puerto Rico along the Caribbean Sea with fishing villages, mangrove forests, chains of cayos, turquoise sand bars and one of the island’s famed bioluminescent bays. Its inland valleys are abundant with pineapple farms and roadside stands selling fruits and honey. 

La Parguera

La Parguera is a fishing town along the coast of Lajas. It’s a hub for marine activities like boating, snorkeling and scuba diving. Floating houses line the waterways while the town centers is home to several tour operators, a night market with craft and souvenir vendors, late night bars and seafood restaurants. 

La Parguera Nature Reserve 

A marine reserve comprised of over 30 cayos, mangroves, sand bars, coral reefs and a bioluminescent bay. The only way to explore the reserve is by boat. Hire a captain for a full or half day with Joy Tours PR or Fondo de Cristal Tours & Boat Rental to explore the cayos. Weekdays are often quiet while weekends become a party on water. 

Cayo Caracoles.  A popular cayo with a shallow sand bar and clear turquoise water protected by the reefs and mangroves. Underwater trails lead through the mangroves and into the reef teeming with massive schools of tiny fish, strange marine life and sea urchins. The cayo is a hub for activity with dozens of locals and party boats anchored here all weekend long. We spent the afternoon lounging in a raft, snorkeling in the mangroves, tanning in the sun and drinking Caribbean rum punch. 

Cayo Robo la Gata.  The second most popular cayo in the reserve. It offers a very similar experience to Cayo Caracoles with mangrove islands, shallow sand bars and a dozens of party boats. 

Cayo Enrique.  A lesser visited cayo popular with families for its calmer atmosphere and shallow waters. Channels lead through the shaded and sandy mangroves making them a fun place to snorkel and wade in the shallow waters. 

Good to Know:

• Bring all food and drink with you for the day. 

• Wear water shoes to avoid sea urchins and broken coral. 

• Some cayos were closed due to damage from Hurricane Fiona. 

• Many boats often dock here on the weekends while the weekdays are quiet. 

La Parguera Bio Bay 

One of three bioluminescent bays in Puerto Rico, and the only one that people are allowed to swim in. Arriving on a tour boat at night, we jumped into the water causing a bright blue cloud of bioluminescence to form around us. As we swam in the warm salty water, it glowed bright blue with every movement, sparkling on our skin. It was a surreal experience that felt like swimming in a pool of glitter. 

We booked with Paradise Scuba. Our tour included unlimited medallas and 2 fried vegetarian empanadas. We stoped at Cayo Caracoles to swim at sunset before making our way to the bio bay. We spent about half an hour in the bio bay before returning. Out of all 3 bio bays in Puerto Rico, this one was our favorite experience! 

Pro Tips. The best time to visit this bio bay is on a dark and moonless night after a sunny day without any rain. Wear snorkels and swim down a few feet to block out any ambient light. Bring a hoodie for the boat ride back. After swimming it gets cold.

Places to Eat & Drink 

There are many restaurants and bars along the main road in the city center of La Parguera. Most serve seafood, Puerto Rican dishes and rum based cocktails. 

Puerto Parguera Restaurant.  A seafood restaurant with dishes like octopus salad, whole fried red snapper and seafood paella. We splurged and ordered a grilled Caribbean lobster with a side of maduros (fried sweet plantains).

Isla Cueva.  A restaurant and bar with over a dozen burger options including beef, chicken, pork, fish and vegan. We ordered the fried mahi mahi burger, piña colada and sangria. It’s a great spot to come before or after visiting the bioluminescent bay tour. 

Papo’s Pinchos.  A small kiosk serving Puerto Rican pinchos (grilled kabobs) with meats like chicken, pork, shrimp, shark and mahi mahi. 

Frozen G Spot.  A takeaway bar serving a variety of frozen cocktails including fruit flavored mojitos and margaritas. 

Yauco 

Yauco stretches from the Caribbean Sea to the lush and rugged landscapes of the island’s interior. The region is famed for its colorful hillside pueblo and coffee production. 

Yauco Pueblo 

A pueblo at the heart of Yauco that blends historic architecture and urban artworks. Vivid murals and colorful geometric patterns transform its walls, staircases and neighborhoods into an open air gallery. The town’s historic character is reflected in its mix of Creole, Spanish colonial, neoclassical, Baroque and Art Deco architecture. Adding to its charm, cafes serve locally grown and roasted coffee. 

Pro Tip.  Visit from Thursday to Saturday. Most businesses are closed during the first half of the week. 

Yaucromatic.  A hillside neighborhood converted into a canvass of colorfully painted houses, staircases and walls. The best views of the art installation is from the intersection of Calle E Sanches Lopez and Calle de la Cruz. Walk up Calle E Sanches Lopez to the top of the hill for photogenic views of the entire pueblo. 

La Escalinata de Yauco.  A painted staircase featuring Yauco’s flag and a statue of an indigenous Taino warrior. There’s a small park near the base of the stairs with a colorfully crochet wrapped tree and murals of Puerto Rican birds 

Mural de la Niña con el Pelo de Trinitaria.  A mural of a young child whose hair is formed by a vibrant bush of blossoming purple flowers.

Miradas del Barrio.  A series of murals at the top of the hill overlooking Yauco featuring close up paintings of people’s staring faces and eyes. 

Calle 25 de Julio.  A central road with many colorful historic homes spanning different architectural styles. Some of the most notable buildings to see include: Franceschi Antongiorgi House, Filardi House and The Cesari Mansion. 

Guánica 

Referred to as the “Paraíso del Eterno Verano,” or the Paradise of Eternal Summer, Guánica is a sunny region with white sand beaches, dry forests and coastal look out points.  

Playa Santa.  A popular white sand beach with turquoise waters, kayak rentals and beach restaurants. Stop for drinks at Mojito Beach Bar & El Anclan Flontante for all kinds of fried empanadas like fish, lobster, conch, octopus and shrimp. Arrive early to find roadside parking and shaded space under the beach trees. 

Guánica State Forest.  A vast. Bio-reserve and dry forest home to many species of cacti, thorny evergreens and coastal mangroves. The park is divided by the Guánica Bay with several hiking trails that lead to beaches, rock formations and ruins.

• Fuerte Capon.  The ruins of a small fort overlooking the Guánica Bay and forest. Start at the visitor center and hike follow the 6 mile trail to hike here or park at Playa Jaboncillo beach and follow the shorter 30 minute trail to Fuerte Capon.

• PR-333.  A scenic coastal road with views of the dry forest and Caribbean Sea. There are many beaches, scenic pull offs and hiking trails along the way.

• Good to Know.  The visitor center closes at 4pm. Park rangers prevent people from beginning hikes after 2pm. 

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Chillo Frito Entero.  A fried red snapper served whole with crispy skin, tender meat and squeezed with lime. It’s usually accompanied by fried plantains like tostones, mofongo or amarillos. 

Mofongo.  Fried plantain mashed with garlic and butter. It’s often served plain or stuffed with an option of seafood. If prepared with bread fruit and yucca, it’s known as trifongo. 

Empanadillas.  Puerto Rican style fried empanadas stuffed with a range of fillings like octopus, conch, cod, shrimp, crap and pizza. 

Pinchos.  Grilled meats served on a stick often served at beaches or roadside kiosks. Our favorites are shark and shrimp. 

Mojo Isleño.  A savory sauce made from tomato, onion, bell pepper, garlic, olives and bay leaves. It’s often served on fried red snapper, lobster or mixed with octopus and conch.

Mallorca.  A Puerto Rican pasty often shaped like a bun or swirled roll and dusted in powered sugar. Our favorite preparations are pressed with guava with cheese or egg and cheese. 

Coco Frio.  A cold and freshly opened coconut. Drink the coconut water inside then the sweet meat inside. Alternatively, enjoy it with coconut rum to create a tropical cocktail 

Rum.  Puerto Rico is unarguably the rum capital of the Caribbean with several distilleries and local brands served in bars across the island. Order it on the rocks, in a Pina Colada or other tropical cocktail. 

Medalla.  The island’s most popular local beer, recognizable by it’s small golden can. It has a light slightly nutty flavor and is served everywhere. Buy a 6 pack for the beach!

Getting Around

Rent A Car.  Renting a car is necessary to get around anywhere on the southwest side of Puerto Rico. Rent from a reputable rental agency from any of the island’s three airports in San Juan, Aguadilla or Ponce. We’ve had luck renting from local agencies including: Charlie Car Rental, Cabrera Car & Truck Rental and Flagship. 

Where to Stay 

Orange B Living (OB3).  A tropical style motel in Cabo Rojo with a series of vacation rentals and apartments. It’s walking distance to nearby restaurants and driving distance to Cabo Rojo’s beaches. Book on Airbnb. 

Location Specifics

Respect the Culture.  Puerto Ricans are very proud of their island, culture and heritage. Please show respect when discussing local issues and topics. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and learn about the culture and island.  

US Territory.  Puerto Rico is a US Territory meaning US Citizens can visit the island without a passport. 

Language.  Spanish is the primary language spoken in Puerto Rico. English is widely spoken as a second language. Knowing basic Spanish words and phrases is helpful and beneficial when visiting. 

Currency.  Puerto Rico uses the US Dollar. 

Metric vs Imperial.  Puerto Rico uses a combination of the Metric and Imperial systems. Speed limits are in marked in mph while distances are marked in kilometers. Gasoline is sold by the liter instead of by the gallon. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit and debit card is widely accepted across the island. Cash is preferred by most vendors at markets, kiosks and some businesses. 

Power Outages.  The electrical grid is fragile due to devastation from past natural disasters. While power outages rarely affect tourists, they do happen. It’s a difficult part of life for many Puerto Ricans. 

Tap Water.  Tap water is generally safe for consumption around the island. 

Tropical Weather.  Puerto Rico experiences tropical weather. Carry an umbrella incase of afternoon and evening rain storms. Tropical storms and hurricanes are possible from June through November with September through October being the most active. 

Swimming.  Mind the warning signs and red flags advising about dangerous ocean currents. Pay attention to where others are and are not swimming. 

Sun Protection.  The harsh UV is dangerous in Puerto Rico. Wear sun block when outside, even on cloudy days. 

Insect Repellent.  Mosquitos are prevalent across the island with mosquito borne illnesses on the rise. Wear insect repellant to minimize bites.  

Clothing.  Shorts and tank tops are generally acceptable to wear, keep the swimwear for the beach and plan to change into pants while dining out or visiting local spots. 

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

Having visited Puerto Rico nearly 20 times, we’ve experienced many places across the island. Though we don’t live here, we consider ourselves non-local experts and one day hope to call this beautiful island our home. Experience Puerto Rican culture in the capital city of San Juan. Explore the colorful and colonial streets of Old San Juan. Participate in Carnival during the Festival of Masks in Puerto Rico’s second city, Ponce. Hike the El Yunque Rainforest in Eastern Puerto Rico. Visit the surf towns along Western Puerto Rico. See the indigenous Taino sights of Central Puerto Rico. Get off the mainland to visit the islands of Culebra and Vieques.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around the southwestern region of Puerto Rico including: 

Hacienda Iluminada Coffee Farm.  A coffee hacienda home to 787 Coffee. They frequently offer tours and tastings. Book online or call ahead for reservations. 

Parque Nacional Balneario Boquerón.  A lengthy golden sand beach with a large palm grove, protected swimming area and sunset views. 

Finca El Girasol.  A sunflower farm with near year round rows of sunflowers. The finca offers tours and fresh cut sunflowers. 

El Rodadero Peak.  A mountain peak reachable after hiking a steep and slippery trail. It offers stunning views of the island’s lush and rugged landscape. 

The Wall.  A vast drop off along the continental shelf spanning several miles with over 30 different dive sites. Paradise Scuba & Snorkel in La Parguera offers snorkeling and scuba diving tours. 

Ponce Puerto Rico Travel Guide: History, Architecture & Local Culture

Ponce, The Pearl of the South

Ponce, known as “The Pearl of the South,” is famed for its historic architecture, cultural landmarks, Taíno archaeological sites and annual carnival traditions. 

Architectural Styles 

Ponce is a historic city with multitudes of architectural styles and colorful buildings. We spent an afternoon wandering the streets to see the mix of Creole, Colonial, Neoclassical, Spanish Revival, Miami Art Deco, Arabesque and 90s Modernist style buildings. 

An Underdog 

The city is a bit of an underdog; recovering from hurricanes, earthquakes and the effects of the pandemic. Though quieter and less traveled to, it has a charming local ambiance that can’t be overlooked. Like many Ponceños, we’re rooting for this beautiful city!

Visit the Sights & Museums

Plaza de las Delicias.  The lush town square and historical center of Ponce with monuments, statues, landmark buildings and adjacent restaurants.  

Fuente de los Leones.  A large two tiered fountain with statues lions, a symbol of strength and of Ponce.

Parque de Bombas.  Ponce’s iconic red and black striped former fire station and now museum. 

Museo de la Historia de Ponce.  Ponce’s historical museum with galleries explaining the significance of the city, its history, politics, architecture and cultural impacts on Puerto Rico as a whole. A local historian, Ronald, gave us a tour, recommended places to eat in Ponce and nearby places to visit. 

Ponce Cathedral.  A large light blue and white neoclassical cathedral that divides the plaza.

La Guancha.  A waterfront boardwalk and beach with restaurants, kiosks, a marina and an observation tower. Hurricane Fiona caused structural damage to the boardwalk and its since been condemned. Many restaurants have since opened food trucks along a road in the parking area. 

Museo Castillo Serrallés.  A large mansion overlooking the city that once belonged to a sugar cane & rum baron. It’s now a museum and event venue with lush gardens and city views. Come to tour its grounds and interiors while sipping on a Don Q piña colada from its cafe.

Centro Ceremonial Indígena de Tibes.  A free archeological museum dedicated to the Tiano people with exhibits displaying artifacts including pottery, stone tools, shell jewelry and human remains. A short walk behind the museum is an open air exhibit with uncovered petroglyphs, stone platforms, ball courts and a plaza. 

Carnaval Ponceño (Festival of Masks)  

Ponce’s week long carnival festival included nightly events, parades, performances and the famous Vejigantes leading up to carnival Tuesday. 

Vejigantes

Carnaval Ponceño, also known as The Festival of Masks, is famous for the Puerto Rican Vejigantes, elaborately painted paper mache masks decorated with pointed horns, jagged teeth and worn with colorful jumpsuits. The Vejigantes are the symbol of the carnival and traditionally act as a reminder of evil spirits. Nowadays, they’re an expression of Puerto Rican culture. 

The Festival 

Plaza de las Delicias is turned into a fair with food, drink and craft vendors, amusement park rides & a main stage hosting musical performances and announcing the events on the carnival. Unlike what’s typically expected from carnival, Ponce’s is very family friendly.

Food vendors fry all types Puerto Rican dishes like mero (grouper), mofongo bites (mashed plantain), bacalaitos (cod fritters) and cheese. Full bars serve medalla, the local beer, and a list of cocktails like piña coladas, cuba libres and rum punch. Craft vendors sell handmade items like Vejigante pins, masks, horns and painted jackets. We bought and wore a pair of horns, similar to the full face masks worn by the Vejigantes.

The Main Parade 

The main parade is the largest event of the carnival celebrations with Vejigantes, marching bands, floats, the queens of the carnival, classic cars & loud speaker trucks. The parade travels west down Calle Reina towards Plaza de las Delicias and ending in front of the main stage. The parade happens on Sunday afternoon before carnival Tuesday. It started around 2:30pm and lasted into the evening with festivities lasting even longer. Most people arrive by late morning and set up chairs along the shaded side of Calle Reina for the best views. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Campioni Pizza Birra & Tapas.  A popular restaurant for Puerto Rican style pizza (thin crust pizza cooked in a wood fired oven). Order the fruto del mar pizza topped with shrimp, calamari and octopus to and a sangria.

Lola Eclectic Cuisine.  An elevated restaurant serving international cuisine. Try the tuna tartare wonton tacos, grilled salmon on a taro cake, sea bass over lentils and ice-cream on a fried plantain. 

Mariscos Patio Beach.  A roadside seafood kiosk overlooking the Caribbean with fresh and fried seafood dishes. Try the octopus salad, shrimp salad and tostones. 

Tazza D' Oro Caffé.  A breakfast and brunch spot across from Plaza de las Delicias. Try the egg quesadilla or eggs Benedict on brioche. They serve Gusto’s coffee, a Puerto Rican coffee roaster. 

Con Leche.  A breakfast and brunch cafe. Try the Mallorca egg sandwich or breakfast wrap made with eggs and salsa rojo.

Chango Bar.  A dive bar named after the little black birds seen across Puerto Rico. Come here for a Medalla or glass of Don Q served neat. 

Puerto Rican Cuisine 

Chillo Frito Entero.  A fried red snapper served whole with crispy skin, tender meat and squeezed with lime. It’s usually accompanied by fried plantains like tostones, mofongo or amarillos. 

Mofongo.  Fried plantain mashed with garlic and butter. It’s often served plain or stuffed with an option of seafood. If prepared with bread fruit and yucca, it’s known as trifongo. 

Empanadillas.  Puerto Rican style fried empanadas stuffed with a range of fillings like octopus, conch, cod, shrimp, crap and pizza. 

Pinchos.  Grilled meats served on a stick often served at beaches or roadside kiosks. Our favorites are shark and shrimp. 

Mojo Isleño.  A savory sauce made from tomato, onion, bell pepper, garlic, olives and bay leaves. It’s often served on fried red snapper, lobster or mixed with octopus and conch.

Mallorca.  A Puerto Rican pasty often shaped like a bun or swirled roll and dusted in powered sugar. Our favorite preparations are pressed with guava with cheese or egg and cheese. 

Coco Frio.  A cold and freshly opened coconut. Drink the coconut water inside then the sweet meat inside. Alternatively, enjoy it with coconut rum to create a tropical cocktail 

Rum.  Puerto Rico is unarguably the rum capital of the Caribbean with several distilleries and local brands served in bars across the island. Order it on the rocks, in a Pina Colada or other tropical cocktail. 

Medalla.  The island’s most popular local beer, recognizable by it’s small golden can. It has a light slightly nutty flavor and is served everywhere. Buy a 6 pack for the beach!

Where to Stay

Casa Luna.  An inexpensive hotel in a neon green creole style building located 2 streets away from Plaza de las Delicias inPonce’s city center. It has multiple private rooms with bathrooms, a public patio and outdoor kitchen. Book on Airbnb.

Location Specifics

Respect the Culture.  Puerto Ricans are very proud of their island, culture and heritage. Please show respect when discussing local issues and topics. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and learn about the culture and island.  

US Territory.  Puerto Rico is a US Territory meaning US Citizens can visit the island without a passport. 

Language.  Spanish is the primary language spoken in Puerto Rico. English is widely spoken as a second language. Knowing basic Spanish words and phrases is helpful and beneficial when visiting. 

Currency.  Puerto Rico uses the US Dollar. 

Metric vs Imperial.  Puerto Rico uses a combination of the Metric and Imperial systems. Speed limits are in marked in mph while distances are marked in kilometers. Gasoline is sold by the liter instead of by the gallon. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit and debit card is widely accepted across the island. Cash is preferred by most vendors at markets, kiosks and some businesses. 

Power Outages.  The electrical grid is fragile due to devastation from past natural disasters. While power outages rarely affect tourists, they do happen. It’s a difficult part of life for many Puerto Ricans. 

Tap Water.  Tap water is generally safe for consumption around the island. 

Tropical Weather.  Puerto Rico experiences tropical weather. Carry an umbrella incase of afternoon and evening rain storms. Tropical storms and hurricanes are possible from June through November with September through October being the most active. 

Swimming.  Mind the warning signs and red flags advising about dangerous ocean currents. Pay attention to where others are and are not swimming. 

Sun Protection.  The harsh UV is dangerous in Puerto Rico. Wear sun block when outside, even on cloudy days. 

Insect Repellent.  Mosquitos are prevalent across the island with mosquito borne illnesses on the rise. Wear insect repellant to minimize bites.  

Clothing.  Shorts and tank tops are generally acceptable to wear, keep the swimwear for the beach and plan to change into pants while dining out or visiting local spots. 

Elsewhere in Puerto Rico

Having visited Puerto Rico nearly 20 times, we’ve experienced many places across the island. Though we don’t live here, we consider ourselves non-local experts and one day hope to call this beautiful island our home. Experience Puerto Rican culture in the capital city of San Juan. Explore the colorful and colonial streets of Old San Juan. Hike the El Yunque Rainforest in Eastern Puerto Rico. Visit the surf towns along Western Puerto Rico. Head to the Caribbean Coast of Southwestern Puerto Rico. See the indigenous Taino sights of Central Puerto Rico. Get off the mainland to visit the islands of Culebra and Vieques.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set experiencing things we’ve missed during past trips around the southern side of Puerto Rico including: 

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! We have our eyes set on visiting Isla Caja De Muertos, a secluded nature reserve off the coast of Ponce home to a dry forest, many species of birds, coral reefs for snorkeling and diving, sandy beaches, turquoise water, hiking trails and mangroves. It can only be reached by boat however most ferries and tour operators have stopped visiting the island since hurricane Fiona and a series of earthquakes. 

Oʻahu Travel Guide: Waikīkī, Beaches & Island Adventures

Aloha from O’ahu!

Aloha from the Hawaiian Island of O’ahu! O’ahu is an adventurous destination for active vacations and leisurely itineraries. The ocean invites surfers to ride breaking waves and snorkelers to spot marine life in lively coral reefs. Hikers take to rigorous trails along mountains ridges, volcanic craters and lush forests. Sunny days are made for relaxing on pristine beaches, sipping mai tais and watching sunsets. Vibrant rainbows arch over the skyscrapers of Honolulu after tropical showers. 

Honolulu

Honolulu is a big city with tropical vibes and access to some of the O'ahu’s best beaches, hiking trails and farmers markets. Its neighborhoods and streets are hubs for Hawaiian culture, cuisine and nightlife. 

Waikiki.  Famed for its palm lined beaches, luxury high-rises and oceanfront hotels, Waikiki is at the center of Honolulu. It’s an energetic place popular with both travelers and islanders. Many visit to relax at its beaches, shop the busting streets, sip cocktails at tiki bars, order from food trucks and dine at restaurants. 

Kalākaua Ave.  Brimming with luxury brands, clothing boutiques, souvenir stores, surf shops and hotels, Kalākaua Ave. is the commercial artery of Waikiki. It comes to life each night with an eclectic mix of street performers, tarot card readers, karaoke stands, typewriter poets, bible salesmen, human statues and exotic animals. 

Chinatown.  A historic neighborhood known locally for its weekend nightlife scene and authentic Chinese restaurants. The most lively area is on Hotel St. between Smith St. and Nuuamu Ave.

Relax on the Honolulu’s Beaches 

Honolulu is a famed beach destination lined with sandy shores, turquoise waters, surf breaks and coral reefs. Its beaches offer a range of places to enjoy the island vibes. 

Waikiki Beach.  Palm trees and luxury hotels line the beach’s golden sands and aquamarine waters. It’s a paradise for sunbathing, swimming and water activities. Vacationers sip on tropical cocktails and couples watch picturesque sunsets. Surfers take lessons and ride gentle waves. Rowers experience the “Hawaiian roller coaster ride” on outrigger canoes. Catamarans ferry passengers on sightseeing tours along the coast.

Surf Rentals.  Rent surf boards from Moku Hawaii, a nearby surf shop with better priced boards than those available on Waikiki Beach. They also provide secure storage for personal belongs. 

Kapaemahu (The Stones of Life).  A sacred spot in Hawaiian folklore marked by four lava stones at Waikiki Beach. They’re believed to hold the healing knowledge brought to the islands by Polynesian healers. The full story can be learned by watching Kapaemahu, an animated short film. 

Queens Beach.  The tan sand beachfront along Waikiki’s southern end is a relaxing place to gather with friends. The beach attracts volleyball players and onlooking sunbathers. Meanwhile snorkelers search for tropical in the reef and along the pier. A boardwalk leads to the nearby Barefoot Beach Cafe offering Hawaiian bites. 

Fort DeRussy Beach.  The shoreline of Fort DeRussy Beach is a laid back place away from the crowds of Waikiki. It’s a spacious spot to sunbathe, enjoy a swim and view the Friday night fireworks. Walk the boardwalk to the Koa Oasis Booze Shack for a variety of takeaway cocktails garnished with orchids. 

Magic Island.  An artificial peninsula with a lush city park and protected sandy lagoon. It’s a popular spot to picnic, gather with friends, watch the sunset and enjoy the Friday night fireworks. 

Waikiki Friday Fireworks.  Weekends in Waikiki kick off with a firework show, held on the beach of the Hilton Hotel every Friday at 7:45pm. The show is visible from multiple places including Magic Island and Fort DeRussy Beach. 

Places to Shop 

Waikiki is a popular shopping destination with countless places to shop. We shopped for Hawaiian goods like tropical clothes, surfboards, ukuleles and souvenirs. 

Surf Garage.  A reputable surf shop specializing is new and used surf boards and accessories. The family run shop is the perfect place for first time buyers or experienced surfers. They also ship to the “mainland.” 

Ukulele Puapua.  A tiny shop selling a range of Hawaiian ukuleles. They offer free 30 minute lessons to learn strumming basics. Reserve a spot a day in advance. 

Avanti Hawaii.  A clothing store specializing in vintage style Hawaiian prints utilized across silk Aloha shirts, dresses and accessories. 

Hawaii Hat Shack.  A small boutique near Waikiki Beach specializing in embroidered baseball caps, bucket hats and floppy beach hats. 

Vibrations 'Ohana.  A gay friendly clothing shop with vibrant and patterned shirts, low cut shorts and swim briefs.  

ABC Stores.  A chain convenience store selling snacks, beverages, beachwear and souvenirs. They’re located on practically every corner of Waikiki.  

Mai Tais & Tiki Bars 

The Mai Tai, considered the ultimate tropical cocktail is synonymous with Hawaiian resort culture. We sampled versions at about every tiki bar in Waikiki, coming up with a list of our favorites. 

Mai Tai Bar.  A beachfront bar at the historic Royal Hawaiian Hotel credited with inviting the Hawaiian Mai Tai, a twist on the classic made with pineapple juice in lieu of lime juice. 

Duke’s Waikiki.  A beach front bar with all around Hawaiian vibes. Order the Duke’s Mai Tai, their house version made with fresh fruit juices and rums. It was our favorite on the island! Buy a handmade floral lei from a vendor near the host stand after 7pm. 

Arnold’s Beach Bar.  An off the beaten path tiki bar with inexpensive tropical cocktails, live music and free popcorn. They make a perfectly balanced traditional Mai Tai. 

Rumfire.  A beachside hotel bar with tropical cocktails, Hawaiian pupus and flaming tiki torches. Come for their Mai Tai Flight with your choice of three different versions of the famed cocktail. 

Cuckoo Coconuts.  An umbrella covered parking lot turned restaurant and bar with tropical cocktails, fried bar food, live music and tiki vibes. Their House Mai Tai is more juicy than boozy but won’t fail to sneak up on you. 

Hula’s Bar & Lei Stand.  A tiki style gay bar in Waikiki popular with both locals and tourists. Visit mid day for their Happy Hour Mai Tai, returning later in the night for live music, drag performances, strong tropical cocktails and bar snacks like nachos. 

Skull & Crown Trading Co.  A speakeasy style tiki bar decorated with vintage nautical artifacts. Their menu features a range of signature cocktails like the  Dagger Mai Tai, made with “redacted ingredients.” Make a reservation!

Merriman’s.  An elevated restaurant known for their happy hour specials and inventive cocktails. Try the Merriman’s Mai Tai, their house version made with macadamia nut orgeat and lilikoi (passion fruit) foam. 

Tiki’s Bar & Grill.  A restaurant and bar overlooking the palm lined shores of Waikiki Beach. Tropical cocktails are served in take home tiki mugs. Order the Hula Girl Mai Tai with an extra rum shot for a boozy experience! To eat, try the Hawaiian pupus like coconut shrimp, poke wontons and seared tuna. 

Aloha Amigo.  A vibrant Mexican style cantina in Waikiki serving a range of traditional tacos. Pair an order with the Spicy Mezcal Mai Tai for a cocktail that blends Mexican and Hawaiian flavors. 

Places to Eat in Honolulu 

In addition to the menus at the above tiki bars and restaurants, there is no shortage of places to eat in Honolulu. From food-truck parks to beachfront cafes and high-end restaurants, here are some of our favorites:

The Sunrise Shack.  A healthy spot to begin the day with a smoothie bowl and strong coffee. Visit one of many locations around O’ahu. 

Musubi Cafe Iyasume.  A small cafe specializing in Hawaii’s famed Spam Musubi and Japanese Onigiri. Expect to see a line out the door for the flavorful snacks.

Sam's Kitchen.  A hidden poolside restaurant at the Bamboo Waikiki Hotel known for its garlic shrimp, a Hawaiian staple. Service may be slow but it’s worth the wait!

Maguro Brothers.  A seafood spot in a food hall specializing in freshly prepared sashimi platters and generously sized poke bowls. 

Maui Brewing Company.  A Hawaiian brewery offering a selection of craft beers made with island flavors like citrus, pineapple and toasted coconut. Sip on a pint or order a flight while listening to nightly live music over dinner. Try the macadamia nut encrusted mahi mahi.

Orchids.  An upscale restaurant at the Halekulani Hotel with a romantic dining room. It’s the perfect place to come for a celebratory dinner, glass of champagne and famed coconut chiffon cake. 

Hawaiian Aroma Caffe.  A cafe at the Beachcomber Hotel serving tropical waffles, acai bowls and Kona Coffee. 

Kai Coffee Hawai’i.  A coffee shop with bold and flavorful brews of Hawaiian coffee. Visit one of their locations across O’ahu for a macadamia nut or coconut latte. 

Island Vintage Shave Ice. Shave ice is a Hawaiian treat popular across the islands. Come here for tropical fruit flavors like lilikoi, coconut, lychee, yuzu, acai and mango. 

Barefoot Beach Cafe.  An oceanfront cafe near Queens Beach with vegan breakfast dishes, smoothie bowls and coffees. Hawaiian music plays throughout their outdoor patio as customers relax with a meal and drink. 

Waikiki Food Truck Park.  Food trucks are commonplace across O’ahu with some of the best variety being at the Waikiki Food Truck Park. The park brings together over two dozen food trucks offering everything from poke, tacos, barbecue, garlic shrimp, vegan meals, international dishes, bubble tea, churros and smoothies. Take food to-go or dine under the thatched umbrellas picnic tables. 

Diamond Head

Diamond Head is a residential neighborhood of Honolulu defined by its volcanic crater, recreational activities and weekend farmers market. 

Diamond Head Crater.  Towering above Waikiki is one of O’ahu’s most iconic sights, the Diamond Head Crater. A trail leads from the floor of the extinct volcano to its rim, switchbacking past lookout points until reaching the summit. Panoramic views look towards the skyscrapers of Honolulu and the gradient blue coast.

Reservations.  Non islanders need a reservation to visit the crater. Bookings can be made online with Hawaii State Parks up to 30 days in advance. 

Diamond Head Beach Park.  The secluded shores flanking Diamond Head Crater are the perfect place to sunbathe away from the crowds. Surfers catch waves breaking on the reef while snorkelers explore its underwater life. 

KCC Farmers Market.  One of Honolulu’s most beloved farmers markets attracts dozens of vendors and hundreds of visitors each week. Merchants sell locally produced goods including roasted macadamia nuts, raw honey, fresh fruits & vegetables, baked breads & pastries, jars of pickles & preserves, plants & cut flowers. Food stands serve Kona coffee, fruit juices, smoothie bowls, all types of mochi and a range of international street food. The market is held across from Diamond Head Crater every Saturday morning from 7:30-11am. 

Hawaii Kai

Hawaii Kai is an area spanning the southeast coast of O’ahu. It is a bustling area with access to protected bays, coastal formations, pristine beaches, volcanic craters and hiking trails. 

Koko Head.  A volcanic crater with rigorous and scenic hikes along its slopes and a botanical garden spanning its inner crater floor. 

Koko Crater Railway Trail.  Leading up the steep slopes of Koko Crater is an abandoned railway converted into a trail. Hikers use railroad ties like stairs to reach the summit with rewarding views of the island’s volcanic landscape and coastline. It’s a strenuous trek, taking about 30 minutes one way. 

Koko Crater Arch Trail.  Few hikes are as adventurous as the trek to the Koko Crater Arch! Begin by crawling through the Halona Beach lava tube, minding yourself, as it narrows towards the end. Exit the lava tube and scale up the rocky cliffs to reach the crest of the volcanic ridge. A trail leads along the crest to a golden patch of rock. Veer left before the steepest part to approach the arch from the side. 

Koko Crater Botanical Garden.  The floor of Koko Crater is home to a botanical garden with a variety of flora and fauna. A trail loops through groves of plumeria & hibiscus trees, gardens with desert cacti & dry palms and sections of Hawaiian & African plants. Wild mongooses roam free while red-crested cardinals fly between trees.

Hawaii Kai Lookout.  A roadside lookout with picturesque views of Koko Crater. Stop for a photo en route to or from Hanauma Bay. 

Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve.  The eroded crater of an extinct volcano frames the turquoise waters of Hanauma Bay. Beneath its surface are colonies of algae covered rocks, colorful corals and a variety of tropical fish, including endemic species only found here. Snorkel throughout the bay and relax onshore. 

• Good to Know.  Bring your own snorkel gear or rent it at the beach kiosk. Don’t wear fins in shallow waters to avoid kicking algae covered rocks and corals. Wear reef safe sunblock. 

• Tickets.  A limited number of visitors are allowed into the bay between Wednesday and Sunday. Tickets are released by the Department of Parks and Recreation at 7am two days in advance. Tickets often sell out within minutes. Be ready to book and prepare for a back up time and date if sold out.

Sandy Beach.  Aptly named for its golden sand shore, Sandy Beach is a relaxing place to swim, sunbathe and body surf. Pack a picnic or order poke, shaved ice and Hawaiian juices from the parking lot food truck. 

Halona Beach.  A small but adventurous beach nestled between jagged coastal cliffs near the Halona Blowhole. The tide creates a natural wave pool in the beach’s protected cove. A narrow lava tube leads from the beach to the Koko Crater Arch Trail.

Halona Blowhole Lookout.  A seaside lava tube that ferociously sprays seawater into the air during high tide and strong surf. It’s viewable from a roadside parking lot.

Makapu’u.  The far eastern tip of O’ahu is defined by its volcanic ridges, seaside landscapes and beaches. 

• Makapuʻu Beach Park.  Tan sand shores line the turquoise cove of Makapu’u Beach. It’s a popular spot for experienced body surfers and boogie boarders. A lookout on the volcanic cliffs offer sweeping views of the scenic beach and coastline. 

• Makapu’u Lighthouse Trail.  A paved walkway lined with scenic views of distant Hawaiian islands and the deep blue expanse of the Pacific Ocean. The trail ends at a lookout point of Makapu’u Beach and the Makapu’u Lighthouse. 

• Makapu’u Tide Pools.  Sea grasses, small corals and spiky urchins thrive in the shallow tide pools. Tiny fish swim and jump between pools while crabs scurry along lava rocks. Echos of crashing waves reverberate off volcanic cliffs while air rushes through blow holes and lava tubes. 

• Getting Here.  The rocky trail to the tide pools begins beyond the signs at the third lookout point along the Makapu’u Lighthouse Trail. 

China Walls.  The lava rock ledges and seaside cliffs of China Walls are a beloved place amongst locals. Hawaiians gather during golden hour to watch the sunset, vibe to island music, cliff jump and surf. We watched whales spouting and witnessed the green flash as the sun set below the horizon.

Kona Brewing Hawaii Kai.  The beers of Kona Brewing are a staple of the Hawaiian Islands. Their tap house in Hawaii Kai offers pints and flights of exclusive brews, seasonal flavors and drafts like Kona Big Wave or Longboard Lager. Try the pineapple topped Hawaiian pizza or sharable pupus. 

Leonard’s Bakery.  A bakery known for their flavorful Malassadas, a puffy Portuguese donut covered in cinnamon sugar and often filled with a custard or jam. They’re popular across O’ahu. Visit the historic location in Honolulu or their food truck in Hawaii Kai. 

Kailua

Kailua is a large beach town on O’ahu’s Windward Shore with lengthy white sand beaches, small offshore islets, scenic hiking trails and farmers markets. 

Kailua Beach.  Powdery white sand covers Kailua’s lengthy shoreline making it a tranquil place for beach walks and seaside picnics. Turquoise waters and ocean views invite beachgoers in for a swim and kayakers on a voyage to the Moku Islands.

Good to Know.  Beware of Portuguese Man-O-Wars on windy days. 

Moku Islands.  The Mokus are two protected islets and a sanctuary for seabirds, endangered Hawaiian monk seals and green sea turtles. Kayakers can land on Moku Nui, the larger of the two islets. On shore is a small sandy beach and rocky tide pool where sea animals lounge. The conical hillside is covered in burrows from nesting birds. Rent kayaks from Kailua Beach Adventuresfor half or full day excursions.

Lanikai Beach.  Palm trees sway above white sand shores while sunbathers bask in the sunshine. The Moku Islands rise from the turquoise hued waters as waves break beyond the reef. Colorful fish and green sea turtles swim between lively corals as snorkelers drift overhead.  

Lanikai Pillbox Trail.  A short but steep trail leads to a series of graffitied military bunkers perched on the volcanic ridge beyond Lanikai Beach. Lookout points boast picturesque views of the seaside neighborhood below and nearby Moku Islands. The trail continues further along the ridge with views of the island’s rugged interior. 

Good to Know.  Wear sturdy shoes and be cautious of the loose gravel. Park at Kailua Beach and walk to the trail head located at this Map Pin.

Hoʻomaluhia Botanical Garden.  Few places transport visitors to the Jurassic Period like O’ahu’s famed HoʻomaluhiaBotanical Garden. Cloud covered mountains, lush volcanic ridges and dense rainforest characterize the verdant landscape. Nature trails meander through tropical gardens to lakeside lookouts. 

Kailua Farmers Market.  Local vendors set up a weekly farmers market in the Kailua Town Center with a range of produce stands, mobile kitchens and live music. Come here to shop for fresh fruits, vegetables, herbs, baked goods, juices and international meals. The market is held each Thursday from 4-7pm. 

Kalapawai Market.  A chain of “small town markets” located along the Windward Side of O’ahu. Their aisles are stocked with snacks, beverages, beach goods and island decor. The Kailua location prepares sandwiches in their deli while the barista brews a range of hot and iced coffees. 

Ocean Excursions  

Moana’s Sunset Cocktail Sail Along Oahu's Waikiki Coast. Sunsets in Hawaii hit differently, especially on a boat! We boarded a catamaran as the crew served mai tais and margaritas. The boat cruised along the coast with the sail unfurled and Hawaiian music playing. The golden glow of the sun illuminated Waikiki’s skyline and the island’s rugged mountains. The sun began to set as bottlenose dolphins played in the bow waves if a scene from a movie. Book with Moana Sailing Co on Viator. 

Swim with Dolphins on the West Coast of O’ahu.  We joined the crew from Indigo Ocean Hawaii on a half day excursion from Waikiki to swim and snorkel with wild dolphins along Oahu’s Leeward Coast. A playful pod of Spinner Dolphins greeted us in the shallow waters outside of the marina. They porpoised one after another, occasionally jumping from the water and twirling into the air. After an hour at sea, a pod of Spotted Dolphins gathered in the deep open water. With snorkels on, we jumped from the boat and watched as they swam past. On the voyage back to the marina, migrating humpback whales sent spouts of water into the air before rising their tails and diving into the depths. Book on Viator. 

Getting Around

There are multiple ways of getting around O’ahu depending on where you’re staying and everything you plan to see. We primarily explored the city on foot and island by scooter. 

On Foot.  Waikiki is very walkable and an enjoyable way of exploring the neighborhood, getting to the beaches, shopping and discovering restaurants and bars. 

Scooter.  Vespas and Mopeds are the best individual way of getting around Honolulu and coast. We rented a pair of scooters from Waikiki Moped Rental, a reliable and well reviewed shop with affordable options. 

Good to Know.  Scooters are not allowed on the island’s main freeways or inner island highways: H1, H2, H3, 61 & 62. 

Uber.  Ride shares like Uber are ideal for getting between the airport and city as well as across town. Expect airport rides to cost $50 and city rides to cost between $10-$20. 

Rental Car.  Driving is best way to explore all areas of the island on your own time. Rentals, gas and parking are extremely expensive. 

Waikiki Trolly.  A tourist trolly offers routes to around Honolulu and the South Shore of O’ahu. Single and multi-day passes make getting around convenient if not renting a scooter or car. 

Where to Stay

Waikiki is a convent place to stay when visiting Honolulu. Its skyscrapers and beachfront hotels are home to countless vacation rentals and luxury accommodations. We split our time between two locations in Waikiki. 

Waikiki Monarch Hotel.  An apartment complex on the north side of Waikiki with hundreds of vacation rentals. Our comfortable unit had a small kitchen and ocean views. The building is a short walk away from the Waikiki Food Truck Park and Fort DeRussy Beach. Apartments are available for rent on Airbnb. 

Aloha Suites Waikiki.  A small hotel in the center of Waikiki with well equipped apartment rentals. Our unit had a full kitchen, outdoor balcony and high speed wifi. It’s located less than 5 minutes from Waikiki Beach. Apartments are available for rent on both Airbnb and Booking. 

When to Visit 

Early December.  The sweet spot to visit O’ahu is early December between Thanksgiving and Christmas. The crowds are smaller and the temperature is comfortable. Humpback whale begin their migration increasing the chances of seeing them anywhere around the island. 

For Next Time… 

The Hawaiian Islands keep calling us back! On our next trip to Hawaii we plan to rent a car and venture to the North Shore of O’ahu, visit Hawaiian cultural sights and make our way to the islands of Kauai and Maui.

• Haleʻiwa.  A colorful and historic town on the North Shore with small cafes, surf shops, boutiques and markets. 

• Waimea Bay Beach.  A North Shore beach with a large rock, popular for jumping from. It has a calm surf during the summer and big waves during the winter. Dolphins and sea turtles can frequently be spotted off shore.  

• Ko Hana Distillery.  O’ahu’s only sugarcane rum distillery. They offer tours, tastings and cocktails. 

• Pu'u o Mahuka Heiau.  The stone ruins and platforms of an ancient Hawaiian temple. It’s located walking distance from Waimea Bay Beach. 

• Bishop Museum.  Hawaii’s main cultural and natural history museum with Hawaiian artifacts, science exhibits and art galleries. 

Auckland Travel Guide: Waiheke Island, Waterfronts & Volcanic Views

A Weekend in Auckland

Auckland is a sprawling city on the North Island of New Zealand. It’s a wonderful destination to experience Māori culture, taste local wines at island vineyards and hike an urban volcano. The city’s vibrant neighborhoods and waterfront wharfs provide opportunities for shopping, dining and sightseeing. We spent a weekend exploring Auckland during our adventurous roadtrip of the North Island. 

Neighborhoods & Streets 

Central Business District (CBD).  The downtown neighborhood of Auckland. It’s home to bustling streets, lively waterfront wharfs, historic buildings, multicultural restaurants and shopping arcades. 

Queen Street.  The central street of the CBD. Its historic architecture, small arcades and modern skyscrapers are home to big name stores, luxury brands and kiwi boutiques. Numerous restaurants, cafes and fast food joints offer places to enjoy a quick meal. 

Viaduct Harbour.  A bustling neighborhood centered around a boat dotted marina. Stroll the Māori patterned walkways while admiring the docked sailboats and skyline views. Dine at one of the many contemporary restaurants and harbor side bars. Join locals sunbathing on the tidal steps and splashing into the harbour pool. 

North Wharf.  A lively section of Auckland’s waterfront lined with a mixture of eateries, cafes and bars. Visit Goodluck Coconut, a tiki bar with boozy and flaming cocktails in Polynesian style mugs. 

Karangahape Road (K Road).  A vibrant street offering a mix of grungy cafes, vegan restaurants, vintage shops, tattoo studios, dive bars and lgbtq+ nightlife. A rainbow painted cross walk welcomes visitors to the diverse area.

St. Kevin’s Arcade.  A historic multilevel arcade between K Road and Myers Park. It’s home several cocktail bars, tiny restaurants and vintage shops. Visit Definitely Maybe for late night drinks and inventive cocktails in the candlelit bar.

See the Sights 

Maungawhau (Mount Eden).  The tallest of many dormant volcanos making up Auckland’s volcanic field. Trails and walkways lead to its summit with panoramic views of the city and stunning views of the sunset. A boardwalk leads around the crater rim with views peering into its conical depressions and the remnants of Māori agricultural terraces. The volcano is sacred to the Māori people. It was once the sight of precolonial Māori village and is believed to be home of Mataaho, the Māori guardian of earth’s secrets. 

Auckland Museum.  A museum with exhibits dedicated to the volcanic landscape of Auckland, New Zealand’s natural history and the island’s Māori culture. The volcanic exhibit recounts the island’s formation and ongoing volcanism. The natural history exhibit displays fossils and skeletons of dinosaurs, sea creatures and birds now extinct and native to New Zealand. The Māori exhibit recounts the Polynesian migration across the Pacific and displays objects and tools used to cultivate the land, trap fish and prepare food. 

Māori Cultural Experience.  A powerful cultural performance presented by Māori people. They shared their traditional dances followed by a heartfelt explanation of their meanings. A Māori orator recounts the origins of the Haka and its significance. She explains the movements and body language, the symbolism of their traditional attire and accessories, the meanings behind their tattoos and connection to their ancestry. The performance happens twice daily at the Auckland Museum. 

Good to Know.  Out of reverence for Māori culture and ancestors, photos and videos are not permitted during the performance. 

Auckland Domain.  A large park developed on of an extinct volcano in the middle of Auckland. It’s home to green lawns, treelined walkways, cricket fields, the Auckland Museum and Victorian style Wintergardens. 

Myers Park.  A city park in a valley flanked by skyscrapers. Steep grassy slopes and towering palm trees line a central walkway. 

Albert Park. A beautiful park with tree lined walkways and shaded lawns on a hill near the University of Auckland. It’s a popular spot where college students gather for leisure and study. 

Grafton Gully.  A verdant city park with trails leading through a historic cemetery and beneath an underpass. It’s not the prettiest place but does offer a very unique urban experience. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Ahi.  An elevated restaurant offering contemporary kiwi cuisine made from seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. We built our own tasting menu from their range of snacks, starters and mains. Try the whitebait, octopus, salmon and fire roasted leeks. Reservations are needed. 

Auckland Fish Market.  A market with fish mongers and restaurants serving raw and cooked seafood like pāua, mussels, prawns, whole and filleted fish. Try the “Seafood Heaven” at the Market Galley for an assortment of coconut prawns, snapper fish & chips and salt and pepper squid. Sip on local beers and cocktails from The Wreck. 

Honey Cafe.  A breakfast and brunch spot with an all day menu of sweet and savory dishes like bagels, burgers, toasts, salads and eggs. Try the salmon bagel and pea fritters paired with a long black or flat white.

Daily Bread.  A cafe and bakery with a large spread of pastries, sandwiches and breads. Try the cinnamon roll, peach danish and orange loaf. 

Giapo.  An ice cream shop with exotic flavors and fanciful shaped cones shaped like an octopus, bat or helicopter. Try the Hokey Pokey and Kūmara Orange.

Miann.  A sweets shop with creative pastries and cakes. Try the Triple Chocolatemade to look like a cocoa pod and Cactus Plant Pot, layered with a range of floral, nut and spiced flavors. 

Waiheke Island

A tranquil island home to verdant vineyards and sandy shores. It’s the perfect destination to combine wine tastings with beach time. The island is easily visited on a day trip from Auckland. 

Waiheke Vineyards

Cable Bay Vineyard.  A vineyard with a variety of wines made from grapes grown on the island and in New Zealand’s largest wine producing region, Marlborough. They offer a variety of tastings including their rosé, white and red varieties in their cellar tasting room. 

Wild Estate Vineyard.  A vineyard with an outdoor tasting room next to rows of grape vines. Come here to sip on their full bodied Waiheke Island wines and play lawn games like giant jenga, corn hole and even archery. 

Stoney Ridge Vineyard.  A winemaker specializing in full bodied and premium red wines with grapes grown on the island. Sip on their premium flight while overlooking the grassy valley. Don’t miss the 2021 Larose, regarded as New Zealand’s best wine. 

Batch Winery.  The highest elevation vineyard on the island with views of the hills and bay. Come here to sip on their bubbly  rosé while overlooking the landscape. 

Fullers 360 Ferry.  A ferry operator with routes between Auckland and Waiheke Island. Book their Western Explorer pass which includes a hop on hop off bus ticket around the western side of the island. It includes wine tastings at three vineyards. 

Beaches & Restaurants

Oneroa Beach.  A wide crescent shaped beach covered in sea shells. It’s a relaxing place to listen to the waves and walk along the shore. 

Ki Māna.  A seaside restaurant overlooking Onetangi Beach. Their menu offers elevated seafood dishes and local wines from near by vineyards. Try the oysters, fried snapper wings and crawfish rolls.

Location Specifics 

Language.  English is the most commonly spoken language in New Zealand. Māori is frequently written on street and road signs.  

Cash vs Card.  Credit card is accepted for virtually every payment. We did not need to use cash once.

Carry Your ID.  When ordering alcohol, be prepared to show your passport to verify your age. 

The Guardian.  The former stock exchange building converted into a mixed used residence with apartment rentals. It’s located in the CBD on Queen Street nearby restaurants, cafes and shops. Book on Airbnb. 

Elsewhere on the North Island

There is so much to see on New Zealand’s North Island outside of Auckland. We spent several days roadtripping between the lake towns of Rotorua and Taupō. We visited geothermal parks, hiked volcanic landscapes, white water rafted, tubed through glowworm caves, canopied in redwood forests and ate second breakfast at Hobbiton. 

For Next Time…

With more time in Auckland, we’d continue venturing outside of the city center to different neighborhoods, beaches and natural sights. 

Devonport.  A neighborhood continually recommended to us for its cute vibes, cafe culture, beaches and volcano hikes. 

Piha Beach.  A black sand beach on the western shore of the North Island with nearby hikes and lookout points.  

Little Palm Beach.  A clothing optional beach on Waiheke Island accessible via a forested walking trail

Stanmore Bay.  A beach town north of Auckland famed for its bioluminescent waves lapping on shore at night. 

Taupō Travel Guide: Lake Taupō, Tongariro & Outdoor Adventure

Taupō, New Zealand

Taupō is a picturesque town set along the shores of Lake Taupō on New Zealand’s North Island. The region is encompasses volcanic landscapes, geothermal parks and scenic waterfalls. It’s a hub for outdoor activities and adventures like white water rafting, sailing and volcano hikes. Taupō is deeply intertwined with Māori culture with murals, monuments and carvings visible throughout the town. 

See the Sights

Lake Taupō.  A massive volcanic crater lake and the largest lake in New Zealand. Scenic walking and biking paths follow its waterfront. Floating pumice stones and aquatic birds line its shores. Views of distant volcanos and their snow covered peaks can be seen across the lake on a clear day. 

Māori Rock Carvings.  A series of modern Māori rock carvings engraved onto the face of a lakeside cliff. The primary carving depicts the tattooed face of a Māori being. It’s flanked by numerous smaller carvings including a lizard, mermaid and dragon. The carvings are only viewable from the lake. We sailed across the scenic Lake Taupō on a vintage sailboat to see them up close. Book with Sail Barbary for a relaxing and enjoyable time. 

Te Atea Tapuaeharuru.  A monument representing Māori ancestry and jurisdiction of Lake Taupō. At its center is an ornate pillar carved from an 1,800 year old Totara tree. The pillar is adorned with designs of Māori guardians and marine life. Surrounding it are 13 patterned columns symbolic of the rivers flowing into the lake. Press a button on each of their sides to activate a cascading water feature. 

Huka Falls.  A narrow channel along the Waikato River with extremely turbulent rapids and a ferocious waterfall. The current churns up brilliant aquamarine hues and bubbling white waters. It’s viewable from a bridge and riverside pathway.

Otumuheke Stream.  A narrow stream fed by a hot spring. It flows into the Waikato River creating a tepid pool along its banks. It was too cold for us but others enjoyed. 

Mount Tauhara.  A dormant volcano near the shores of Lake Taupō with a summitable peak. A hiking trail leads steadily uphill through farmland and shaded forest home to song birds and endemic ferns. It opens at a clearing near the summit and continues along the ridge through dense shrubs to a rocky outcrop. The mountaintop offers panoramic views of its forested slopes, grassy farmland, the vast lake and distant snow covered volcanos.  

Good to Know.  Strong gusts can make it extremely windy at the summit. It takes about an hour to reach from the parking lot. Use this map pin for parking. 

Craters of the Moon.  A geothermal park with dozens of steaming craters, mud pools and blow holes. Boardwalks lead through the volcanic scrubland and low laying manuka trees as steam billows from the ground. It’s a leisurely trek taking about an hour.

Wairakei Terraces & Thermal Health Spa.  A geothermal spa with terraced hot pools fed by a manmade geyser. The mineral rich waters offer a therapeutic way to relax after a day of hiking. The Terrace Walk includes views of the geyser, silica terraces, native flora and reproductions of a Māori Village. Signs share information about Māori stories and culture. 

Taupō Town Center.  A small but lively neighborhood of Taupō with breweries, restaurants, bakeries, clothing shops, cute boutiques and outdoor outfitters. Side alleys are painted with colorful murals. Its waterfront has scenic views of the lake. 

Tongariro Alpine Crossing

The Tongario Alpine Crossing is a scenic day hike through an active volcanic landscape. The Northern Circuit leads 20.2km past hardened lava flows, dramatic volcanos, craters, thermal vents, blue lagoons and waterfalls. 

The Timber Trail.  A scenic uphill trail leading several kilometers through rugged moorlands covered in short bushes, dry grasses and pale green mosses. The landscape transitions into a barren desert with hardened lava flows, black sand and snowy crevices. The trail offers closeup views of Mt Ngauruhoe, aka Mt Doom.

Soda Springs.  A small waterfall cascading over algae covered lava rock. It’s reachable from an offshoot of The Timber Trail.

Mt Ngauruhoe (Mt Doom).  A conical shaped strata volcano and one of the most iconic features of the Tongariro Crossing. Its slopes are covered in craggily black lava rock from past eruptions while its crater still steam still faintly dunes from its crater. The volcano is nicknamed Mt Doom after its appearance in Lord of the Rings. 

South Crater.  A vast volcanic crater with imposing views of Mt Ngauruhoe. The timber trail leads across its flat sandy basin to a steep ridge and The Red Crater. 

The Red Crater.  A dramatic volcanic crater marking the highest point of the Tongariro Crossing. The crater is scorched black and colored deep rusty red around the point where lava previously erupted. The crater is still highly active. Rippled air and steam rises from the super heated ground within. 

Emerald Lakes.  A series of brightly colored turquoise lagoons surrounded by barren volcanic landscape and steaming vents. They’re viewable from the Red Crater and reachable vis a steep gravel trail.

Blue Lake.  A large crater with a deep blue lake filling its basin. It’s the perfect spot to stop for a scenic picnic lunch before making the descent. 

Central Crater.  A large crater surrounded by several volcanic features including The Red Crater, Mt Tongariro, Emerald Lake and Blue Lake. A hardened lava flow from past eruptions spills into the basin of the crater. 

Mt Tongariro.  A blackened lava plateau flanked by craggily slopes and white snow filled crevices. 

Ketetahi Track.  A downhill trail meandering several kilometers past colorful shrubs, pine trees and subtropical forest. It offers views of lakes, steaming craters and small waterfalls. 

Te Maari Crater.  A still steaming volcanic crater on the Ketetahi Track. Hardened lava flows and ballistic craters formed by ejected rocks are visible from its 2012 eruption. 

Getting Here. Drive to and park at the Tongariro Crossing Car Park. Book a shuttle to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing trail head to begin the hike. The 20.2km trail ends back at the car park. Book the shuttle with Backyard Tours on Viator. 

Tips for Hiking The Tongariro Alpine Crossing:

• Check weather before hiking

• Bring 2 liters of water per person 

• Pack snacks and a lunch for the trail 

• Wear warm removable layers 

• Hiking poles are helpful for the downhill

• Wear sunblock and sunglasses 

• Toilets are available every several kilometers

• Bring toilet paper and hand sanitizer 

Taranaki Falls.  A 20m tall waterfall streaming from a narrow crevice into the rocky pool below. The waterfall is accessible midway along a 6km loop trail. The trail passes through scrubland with scenic views of Mount Ruapehu’s snow capped summit and Mt Ngauruhoe’s conical profile. 

Tawhai Falls (Gollum’s Waterfall).  A small but picturesque waterfall flowing over a diagonal cliff into a turquoise river pool. The location was used to film Gollum’s fishing scene in Lord of the Rings. It’s possible to swim here however the water is frigid. 

Orakei Korako Cave and Thermal Park

A geothermal park with a range of boiling geysers, bubbling streams, colorful mineral flows, mud pools and a rare thermal cave. Wooden boardwalks lead between the geothermal features and through the forested hillside past manuka trees, bushy ferns and moss covered rocks. Take a boat across the Waikato River from the welcome center to access the park. 

The Rainbow Terrace.  A geothermal feature with streaming flows of boiling water and mineral rich sediment. Colorful patterns paint the earth in shades of orange, red, brown and white.

The Devil’s Throat.  A small red cave spewing boiling water and steam towards the Rainbow Terrace.   

Rautapu Cave.  One of only two geothermal caves in the world. Its large rocky opening exposes a bubbling emerald pool at its base and steaming vents along its sides.

Mud Pools.  A bubbling series of clay pools with sections of turquoise blue water. 

Tongariro River Rafting

White water rafting is an exhilarating way to enjoy New Zealand’s landscapes and wildlife! We paddled down the Tongariro River through 60 grade 3 rapids with Tongariro River Rafting. The river offers a continuous roller coaster of white water rapids, technical challenges and leisurely cascades. The scenic adventure passes overgrown and sheer rock cliffs, black sand beaches and smooth volcanic boulders. Trout swam beneath the raft while aquatic birds floated by. A brief stop afforded us an opportunity to jump from a small cliff into the frigid water. The water is so fresh that we could drink directly from the stream. 

Māori & Kiwi Cuisine 

New Zealand Pies.  Personal sized pies with a flaky crust and filled with a range of savory ingredients like vegetables, meats and seafoods are common across New Zealand. They’re often served at cafes and fast food restaurants. 

Ika Mata.  Raw fish marinated in coconut cream with tomatoes and scallions. 

Paua.  A type of sea snail native to the waters of New Zealand. It’s served raw, sautéed, in soups and fritters.

Fish & Chips.  A classic pairing of fried fish and potatoes. It’s common among current and former British territories. 

Kumara. A yellow potato with a slightly sweet flavor and starchy texture. It’s often served as fried with fish and chips. 

Manuka Tea.  A herbal black tea with a pine forward flavor. It’s made from the leaves of a bushy evergreen tree. 

Manuka Honey.  Bush honey, famed for its antibiotic properties, made by bees that pollinate the manuka trees. 

Toasties.  Buttered and griddled white bread sandwiches often served at breakfast.

Places to Eat & Drink

Crafty Trout Brewery.  A cozy brewery in the center of Taupō with a range of traditional and flavored brews. Order a paddle of 9 to share and try almost everything of tap.

Kona Kones.  An ice cream shop with a range of classic and creative flavors. Try the boysenberry and coconut marshmallow.

Paetiki Bakery Cafe.  A self serve cafe stocked with dozens of fresh baked New Zealand pies and pastries. Try the vegetarian, smoked fish and paua pies. 

Brumby’s Bakery.  A bakery with fresh baked breads, sweets and New Zealand pies.

Where to Stay

Taupō Airbnb.  A backyard tiny house with a comfy bedroom, fully equipped kitchen and outdoor patio. It’s located near Taupō’s city center and natural sights. Book here. 

Location Specifics 

Language.  English is the most commonly spoken language in New Zealand. Māori is frequently written on street and road signs.  

Cash vs Card.  Credit card is accepted for virtually every payment. We did not need to use cash once.

Carry Your ID.  When ordering alcohol, be prepared to show your passport to verify your age. 

Rental Cars.  We rented a car with Auto Union at the Auckland airport. The agency has affordable rates and hundreds of positive reviews. 

Drive on the Left.  Like many former British colonies, New Zealanders drive on the left side of the road.

Elsewhere on the North Island 

There is so much to see on New Zealand’s North Island. We spent several days roadtripping between the lake towns of Rotorua and Taupō followed by a weekend in the metropolis of Auckland. We visited geothermal parks, hiked volcanic landscapes, white water rafted, tubed through glowworm caves, canopied in redwood forests and ate second breakfast at Hobbiton.

For Next Time…

Visit the South Island.  Seeing the snow covered mountains of the South Island from our airplane window left us with major sense of fomo. When we return, we plan to spend at least two weeks exploring the South Island. 

• Fiordland National Park.  A glacier carved fjord flanked by forested mountains and rugged mountains. 

• Lake Tekapo.  A bright blue lake surrounded by scenic views snow covered mountains and springtime blooms of lupin flowers. 

• Tasman Glacier.  A glacier with a turquoise lagoon and floating icebergs at its leading edge. 

Rotorua Travel Guide: Geothermal Wonders, Redwood Forests & Māori Culture

Rotorua, New Zealand

Rotorua is a scenic lakeside town on New Zealand’s North Island. Its home to active geothermal features, towering redwood forests and outdoor adventure parks. Its a magical destination, with nearby glowworm caves and the mythical film set of Hobbiton adding to its allure. Māori cultural experiences provide deep insight into the traditions of the island’s first peoples. 

See the Sights 

Lake Rotorua.  A picturesque lake filling the caldera of an ancient volcano. The lake is lined by a scenic board walk, forested nature trails and geothermal activity. Its inhabited by families of black swans, ducks, geese and other aquatic birds.

• Sulphur Point.  A geothermal bay on Lake Rotorua with milky blue water, bubbling mud pools, steam vents and sulphur deposits. It’s a nesting place for various gulls. Trails with picturesque views lead along its edge.

• Te Arawa War Canoe.  A Māori war canoe preserved in a protected shelter near Lake Rotorua. The large canoe is carved from a 1,500 year old tree and adorned in carved faces of Māori beings to navigate and guide the Māori people. 

Kuirau Park.  A city park with hot springs, steaming vents, bubbling pools and a geothermal lagoon. Come here to stroll the Manukatree lined paths and boardwalks. Stop to plunge your legs in thermal foot baths fed by naturally heated spring water. 

Government Gardens.  A public garden with floral beds, bowling fields used by cricketers, Māori sculptures and cultural landmarks, steaming thermal vent, vibrant hot springs and historic wooden buildings.

Outdoor Adventure Parks 

Redwoods Whakarewarewa Forest.  A redwood forest with towering redwood trees and elevated adventure courses. Trails lead through the forest past larger than life redwoods, leafy ferns and mossy patches. Spend a couple hours here walking the trails and canopying in the trees. We hiked the 3.4km Waitawa Walk by day returned for the night trek in the Redwoods Treewalk.

Redwoods Treewalk.  A series of elevated suspension bridges and platforms built between the massive trunks of the redwood trees. The evening treewalk is a magical experience. Suspended lanterns dimly glow throughout redwood forest while colorful lights illuminate the below fern trees. 

Redwoods Altitude.  An elevated adventure course with zip lines and unique suspension bridges meandering between the trunks of the forest’s oldest redwoods. A spiral staircase leads up the trunk of a redwood while a repelling jump descends back to the ground. 

Skyline Rotorua.  An adventure park with cable cars, extreme mountain biking, zip lines and lugeing courses built on the slopes of Mount Ngongotaha. It’s reachable via a 900 meter long gondola with views of Lake Rotorua and the city below. The park also includes low energy activities include wine tastings at the Stratosfare Restaurant and nature walks through the fern covered forest. 

Skyline Luge.  A gravity fueled luge course with multiple routes, downhill straightaways, steep curves and illuminated tunnels. Race small carts to the bottom, ride the lift up and repeat. It’s an exciting activity made for all ages. Buy tickets that included at least two rides.

Geothermal Sights & Parks

Waiotapu Thermal Wonderland

The Waiotapu Thermal Wonderland is a vast geothermal park featuring eruptive geysers, colorful hot springs, acidic lakes, steaming vents and bubbling mud pools. Scenic walkways traverse the park’s many sights. 

Champagne Pool.  A large hot spring named after its small bubbles and fizzing noises resembling a glass of champagne. Mineral deposits line the edge of the pool graduating inwards from white to yellow, orange and green. Steam rises from its surface, wafting gaseous clouds and the occasional vortex. 

Artist’s Palette.  A colorful basin created by mineral deposits and overflowing water from the Champagne Pool. The palette displays bright yellow, rusty orange, turquoise blue, aquamarine, bone white, beige and brown colors. The colors change based on viewing angles and amount of sunlight.

Roto Kārikitea.  A neon green colored acid pool formed by runoff from the Champagne Pools. 

The Craters.  A series of collapsed thermal vents with boiling mud pools, sulphuric deposits and steaming gases. They’re some of the first sights when entering the geothermal park. 

The Mud Pools.  An area with multiple bubbling mud pools, stinky gases and blobs of floating crude oil. 

Nature Walks.  A series of trails winds through forested hillsides, offering sweeping views of the landscape, its geothermal features and endemic plants. Routes pass through the park’s most active thermal areas, showcasing acidic lakes, bubbling hot springs, steaming vents, sulfuric caves and waterfalls.

Lady Knox Geyser.  A white geyser with a steaming conical vent resembling a miniature volcano. The geyser is “induced” to erupt each morning as a Māori woman sings. A growing fountain of bubbling water slowly flows forth followed by a towering jet of steam reaching 20 meters in height. Arrive by 9:30am to get a front row seat in the outdoor amphitheater.

Kerosene Creek.  A forested creek fed by a thermal hot spring with spa-like river pools and small waterfalls. Soak in warm waters and jacuzzi-like falls while admiring the serene surrounding nature. Park here and hike in. 

Waimangu Volcanic Valley

The Waimangu Volcanic Valley is a geothermal area created by a dramatic eruption in 1886. Trails lead through the valley past views of volcanic craters, large hot springs, boiling rivers, sputtering geysers and steaming vents. 

The Crater Track.  A nature walk with scenic views of the valley’s largest volcanic features like crater lakes, colorful silica terraces, steaming rock pinnacles, hot streams and lush landscapes. 

The Terrace Track.  A trail following hot and cold streams lined with orange and white hued silica terraces. Sputtering vents emit hot steam and boiling water along the stream’s edges and terraces surfaces. 

Wetland Trail.  A trail leading through wetlands populated by native plants and aquatic birds. It ends at Lake Rotomahana with views of the Tarawera Volcano. 

The Waitomo Glowworm Cave

The Waitomo Glowworm Cave is a subterranean habitat home to colonies of bioluminescent glowworms. The best way to see the glowworms is by blackwater rafting through the cave’s underground river. It’s a truly magical experience coupled with a unique sense of adventure! 

Black Water Rafting (Black Labyrinth).  We geared up with wetsuits, boots, helmets, headlamps and inner tubes to enter the cave. Guides led us through a crevice into a series of narrow passageways and flooded chambers. We jumped from small waterfalls and floated deeper underground as cold water rushed around us. Thousands of glowworms glittered above our heads in a brilliant display of bioluminescence. Greenish blue dots illuminated the darkness of the cave like stars in the night sky. Book here!

Good to Know.  Personal cameras are not allowed in the cave to maintain participant safety. The rule forces you to live in the moment and appreciate the beauty. Photos can be purchased after the tour. 

Hobbiton Movie Set

Hobbiton is the fictional movie set built for the Lord of the Rings and Hobbit Trilogies. The whimsical village spans a verdant hillside of a functioning sheep farm. Dirt walkways meander past “hobbit holes” built into the faces of grassy mounds. Round doorways and tiny windows peer inside. Flower and veggie gardens sprout beyond wooden picket fences. Smoke rises from brick chimneys poking out of the hilltops. Guided tours include stops at iconic film sights like Bag End, The Party Field, Bagshot Row and The Green Dragon Inn. 

Bag End.  The famed “hobbit hole” home to Bilbo and Frodo. It’s built into the top of grassy hill beneath a large tree. Its green painted round door is left slightly ajar as if inviting guests in for afternoon tea. 

Party Field.  A grassy field in the middle of Hobbiton where Bilbo’s 111th birthday party is held. Ride the teeter totter or play lawn games like quoits.

Bagshot Row.  A lovely row of intricately designed “hobbit holes.” Beyond their round doors is a series of meticulously designed wooden tunnels, cozy chambers and warmly lit rooms with hobbit sized furniture, Shire decor, working fireplaces and numerous hidden easter eggs. 

Second Breakfast Tour.  A specialty tour of Hobbiton based on the beloved concept of “second breakfast.” The tour includes a feast worthy of respectable hobbits or a company of dwarfs. A vast dining table within The Millhouse is covered in spreads of fresh baked scones, muffins, breads and pastries. Dishes are plated with a variety of cheeses, meats, fruits and eggs. Vegan sausage, tofu, mushrooms and potatoes can be requested for vegetarians. Carafes sit on the side with teas, coffee and juices 

The Green Dragon Inn.  A warm and cozy shire pub and gathering place for hobbits and dwarfs. Come here to sit around a roaring fireplace with a “tankard” of locally brewed beer made especially for Hobbiton! 

Good to Know.  A majority of the hobbit holes are not actually accessible. Bag End only recently opened a gives a true glimpse into the life of the hobbits. 

Pro Tip.  Book tours directly through Hobbiton Movie Set Tours up to 10 months in advance! 

Māori & Kiwi Cuisine 

New Zealand Pies.  Personal sized pies with a flaky crust and filled with a range of savory ingredients like vegetables, meats and seafoods are common across New Zealand. They’re often served at cafes and fast food restaurants. 

Ika Mata.  Raw fish marinated in coconut cream with tomatoes and scallions. 

Paua.  A type of sea snail native to the waters of New Zealand. It’s served raw, sautéed, in soups and fritters.

Fish & Chips.  A classic pairing of fried fish and potatoes. It’s common among current and former British territories. 

Kumara. A yellow potato with a slightly sweet flavor and starchy texture. It’s often served as fried with fish and chips. 

Manuka Tea.  A herbal black tea with a pine forward flavor. It’s made from the leaves of a bushy evergreen tree. 

Manuka Honey.  Bush honey, famed for its antibiotic properties, made by bees that pollinate the manuka trees.

Toasties.  Buttered and griddled white bread sandwiches often served at breakfast. 

Places to Eat & Drink

Eat Street.  A pedestrian street in the center of Rotorua with restaurants, bars and nightly live music. Come here to eat drink and be merry!

• The Fainting Goat.  A restaurant on Eat Street with a menu of shareable plates, house brewed beers and New Zealand gins. Try the salt and pepper squid, tarakihi fish tostadas and pumpkin frites with truffle honey. 

• Brew Craft Beer Pub.  A pub on Eat Street with fried snacks, pizzas, burgers and local beers. 

• Lady Jane’s Ice Cream.  An ice cream shop on Eat Street with dozens of classic and local flavors. Try the Black Doris Plum and Hokey Pokey, honey toffee in vanilla ice cream. 

Kai Caff Aye.  A restaurant specializing in traditional Māori cuisine. Come here for Kai Moana (sea food). Try the chowder of Paua (sea snail) in a pocket of fry bread and Ika Mata.

Devon Sea Foods.  A takeaway seafood kitchen with fish & chips, fish burgers and  other fresh caught New Zealand fish meals. Try the Tarakihi Fish with Kumara Chips.

Where to Stay

Rotoroa Airbnb.  A ground floor apartment in a home with a small kitchenette. It’s close to the city’s geothermal sights and walking distance to cafes and restaurants. Book here.

Location Specifics 

Language.  English is the most commonly spoken language in New Zealand. Māori is frequently written on street and road signs.  

Cash vs Card.  Credit card is accepted for virtually every payment. We did not need to use cash once.

Carry Your ID.  When ordering alcohol, be prepared to show your passport to verify your age. 

Rental Cars.  We rented a car with Auto Union at the Auckland airport. The agency has affordable rates and hundreds of positive reviews. 

Drive on the Left.  Like many former British colonies, New Zealanders drive on the left side of the road. 

Elsewhere on the North Island 

There is so much to see on New Zealand’s North Island. We spent several days roadtripping between the lake towns of Rotorua and Taupō followed by a weekend in the metropolis of Auckland. We visited geothermal parks, hiked volcanic landscapes, white water rafted, tubed through glowworm caves, canopied in redwood forests and ate second breakfast at Hobbiton.

For Next Time…

Visit the South Island.  Seeing the snow covered mountains of the South Island from our airplane window left us with major sense of fomo. When we return, we plan to spend at least two weeks exploring the South Island. 

• Fiordland National Park.  A glacier carved fjord flanked by forested mountains and rugged mountains. 

• Lake Tekapo.  A bright blue lake surrounded by scenic views snow covered mountains and springtime blooms of lupin flowers. 

• Tasman Glacier.  A glacier with a turquoise lagoon and floating icebergs at its leading edge. 

Cappadocia Travel Guide: Fairy Chimneys, Valley Hikes & Ancient Wonders

A Fairytale in Cappadocia 

Cappadocia’s fairytale landscapes and ancient wonders make it a dreamy and adventurous destination. Romantic towns with cave hotels and rooftop terraces attract all types of travelers. Fairy chimneys and hot air balloons rise from picturesque valleys. Hiking trails meander across the landscape speckled with historic cave dwellings and underground cities. Turkish wines and cuisine are sipped on and savored at local restaurants. We spent a week leisurely exploring Cappadocia by car. 

Cappadocia’s Romantic Towns 

Göreme.  A picturesque town built into the rock structures and fairy chimneys rising from the landscape. It’s home to cave hotels, rooftop cafes, Persian rug stores and souvenir shops. Colorful hot air balloons rise above the landscape in the early morning. Its carved stone structures are illuminated in a warmly lit glow by night. 

Uchisar.  One of Cappadocia’s most picturesque towns. Its fairytale landscapes are comprised of rock fortresses, cave dwellings and rugged valleys. Cobblestone streets lead between terraced stone buildings home to boutique hotels, Turkish restaurants, wine bars and souvenir shops. It’s a surprisingly quiet place to stay and far less touristy than nearby towns. 

Nar.  A quiet town in an off the beaten path location. It’s driving distance from Cappadocia’s main sights and nearby towns of Uchisar and Göreme. It offers visitors affordable options for staying in traditionally expensive cave hotels.  

Hot Air Balloons 

Göreme Sunrise / Sunset Viewpoint.  The ridge above Göreme offers panoramic views of the city and the surrounding valleys. It’s a popular spot to watch hot air balloons take flight at sunrise. Dozens of balloons rise from the valley and float above the landscape like a scene from a fairytale. Later in the day, the golden rays of the sunset radiate across the landscape. Twinkling lights illuminate the city and its fairy chimneys in a warm glow as night falls. Use this map pin to find the location. 

Good to Know.  There is a small cash fee to access the road leading to the viewpoints.

Hot Air Balloon Tours & Cancellations.  Cappadocia is famed for its sunrise hot air balloon flights over its picturesque valleys. We booked a tour with Discovery Balloons about 6 months in advance. Unfortunately all balloon flights were canceled 3 days in a row due to high winds. We were refunded without the option of rescheduling and opted out of rebooking due to up-charges related to the increased demand from cancellations. For reference, prices increased from €259 to €400 per person. 

The Ancient Cave Dwellings  

Uchisar Castle.  An ancient citadel comprised of cave dwellings, wineries, tunnels and tombs carved deep into the town’s tallest peak. Much of it has eroded and collapsed over the millennia yet it remains one of the most culturally significant sights in the region. Hike the trials leading around its foothills and visit the castle’s summit viewpoint.

Uchisar Castle Foothills.  The slopes surrounding Uchisar Castle are lined with meandering trails that weave uphill into its abandoned cave dwellings and excavated fairy chimneys. Inside are cavernous rooms with stairwells, upper levels, dovecotes and red painted patterns. Windows offer views of the vast landscape and neighboring fairy chimneys, which feel more like ancient skyscrapers. 

Uchisar Castle Viewpoint.  A stairwell leads to the summit of the craggily castle with views of the surrounding towns, valleys and fairy chimneys. Buy tickets as early as 7:30am and visit before 9am to avoid the crowds. 

Good to Know.  Some of the most picturesque views of the castle are from the foothills during the mid afternoon. Many people stop for a roadside photo however few venture onto the trails.

How to Visit.  The trails are free to hike and by far the most adventurous way to experience castle. Start hiking at the Uchisar Photo Spot and work your way around and upwards to the castle and its surrounding fairy chimneys. 

Tiraz Castle.  A rock formation with a series of cave dwellings carved into its tuff structure. The castle is surrounded by terraced gardens, fairy chimneys and picturesque views of the Pigeon Valley. 

Derinkuyu Underground City.  A vast underground city dating back to the 8th Century BCE. Narrow stairwells and carved passageways lead to a maze of subterranean chambers and levels. Tunnels lead to chambers used as living quarters, churches, tombs, for food storage, wine making and housing livestock. A ventilation shaft tunnels vertically between the levels, supplying air deep underground. Stone wheels could be used to seal off passageways in times of invasion.

Good to Know. Several levels of the underground city can be explored while many levels and passages remain closed. It takes an hour to fully explore. Arrive by 9am to avoid the crowds. 

Explore the Open Air Museums 

Zelve Open Air Museum.  An archeological and geological sight comprised of ancient villages, cave dwellings and fairy chimneys. The valleys are connected by a circuit of trails that offer views of the ruins and opportunities to explore inside of them. 

Zelve Valley 1.  The first valley was once a robust community comprised of homes, wineries, grain mills and early churches. Many interiors feature scorched ceilings from ovens and cooking fires. 

• The Mill.  An exposed dwelling with a large grinding wheel, likely pulled by animal, used to grind grains into flour.

• The Winery.  A series of rooms with large basins used for crushing grapes and channels funneling juice to collection tanks.

Zelve Valley 2.  The second valley was mostly residential with spacious cave dwellings, red painted designs and an early Christian church.

• Cave Dwellings.  Excavated homes include interconnected chambers and functional spaces like in-floor ovens, wine making vats, built in shelves and exterior windows. 

• Church of the Holy Cross.  An early Christian church carved into the rock valley. The arched nave features stylized crosses, a central pulpit, wine making chamber and in floor tombs. 

Zelve Valley 3.  The third valley is the largest and most developed. It features a central square, mosque, stables and hundreds of dovecotes. 

• The Mosque.  A carved and cut stone mosque topped with a four pillared minaret, characteristic of the early Ottoman period. 

• Dovecotes.  Rock cut niches carved high into the cliffs made to house pigeons. They’re decorated with mystical patterns representing good fortune and prosperity. 

Göreme Open Air Museum.  A monastic valley with dozens carved churches, refectories and tombs built into the rock. Vivid frescos of biblical scenes and red painted patterns adorn the walls and vaulted ceilings of multiple churches. Large stone tables mimic the Last Supper in refectories. Tombs line the floors of pitted crypts, some with skeletal remains. 

• Pro Tip.  Most ruins date back to the 11th Century, making the well preserved ones even more significant. Don’t miss the Apple Church, Sandel Church and St. Basil’s Church. 

• Good to Know.  Photos are prohibited inside of most ruins. The best preserved church, The Dark Church, costs an additional €6 after you’ve already paid to enter the valley. The valley is easily accessible and gets very busy.

Hike Through The Valleys 

Love Valley.  A valley famed for its towering fairy chimneys resembling phallic shapes. Clusters of vertical stone columns are capped with pointed tips rising from the landscape.  Love Valley Panoramic Lookout Point offers picturesque views of the valley while trails lead into it and around its unique rock formations. Use this map pin to find the viewpoint. 

The Love Valley Foot Path leads from the Love Garden Cafe to the floor of the valley. Walk through the garden and down carved steps to reach the main trail. The trail leads meanders to the best clusters of fairy chimneys.

Pigeon Valley.  A valley named after thousands of dovecotes carved into its stone walls and conical rock formations. Roadside lookouts offer views of the valley while trails meander between cave dwellings, fruiting groves and hidden caves. 

• The Dovecotes.  Eroded houses built into the hillside reveal interior walls and carved niches once occupied by nesting pigeons. The interiors of some abandoned cave dwellings can be explored. Climb through openings into the cavernous chambers of multilevel houses. 

• Valley Groves.  The center of the valley was once cultivated by its former inhabitants. Olive trees, grape vines and sage bushes still grow wild. Depending on the season, you can forage for grapes and dried raisins. 

• Hidden Caves.  Natural caves carved by flowing water stretch beneath the landscape and cave dwellings. Get off the trail to explore their dark tunneling expanses. 

• Getting Here.  Start hiking from the Pigeon Valley Parking Lot. Hike into the valley, stopping midway at the Tiraz Castle or continuing onto the town of Göreme.

Red Valley.  A picturesque valley covered in hundreds of red hued fairy chimneys, layered cliffs and hiking trails. Pathways cut across its grassy plateaus and descend to the craggily rock formations and jagged pinnacles. Inside many are abandoned cave dwellings with multilevel chambers and remnants of patterned plaster. 

Getting Here.  Start at the Panoramic Viewpoint and descend into the valley on foot. 

Good to Know.  Many people come for the roadside view while the valley itself is little visited. It’s the perfect place to enjoy nature and escape the tourist crowds. 

Pro Tip.  Come here to camp! People frequently tent overnight inside the valley and its ancient stone dwellings.

Sword Valley.  A picturesque valley with fragmented fairy chimneys, meandering trails and carved churches and tombs. Come here to hike and explore the ruins. Inside some are exposed tombs, painted patterns and Christian images made from ochre, saffron and white pigments. 

Pro Tip. The valley is free to explore though sparsely visited. It’s accessible from the parking lot of the Göreme Open Air Museum.

Paşabağ Valley (Monk's Valley).  A valley with walkways leading between tall fairy chimneys and ruins of centuries old cave dwellings. Explore their inner chambers then hike to the lookout point with views of the valley, its stone pillars and their conical tops. 

Pro Tip.  The ticket from the Zelve Open Air Museum included access to Paşabağ Valley.

Devrent Vadisi (Imagination Valley).  A valley comprised of rock formations that resemble silhouettes of animals. The most recognizable figure is that of a bactrian camel. Trails lead from the roadside viewpoint past formations that resemble seals, lizards, falcons, dogs and other imaginative forms.

Rose Valley.  A rugged valley named after its pinkish hued landscape. Tooth shaped fairy chimneys and ribbon like bands of eroded rock cover the valley. Hiking trails weave along its ridges and across its floor. Visit during golden hour when the sunlight makes the structures appear most pink the stick around for the sunset. 

Good to Know.  There are several viewpoint however the Rose Valley Sunset Point offers the best views. 

Ihlara Valley.  A river canyon flanked by vertical rock cliffs and the ruins of over one hundred cliffside churches. The valley offers a combination of scenic nature and archeological sightseeing. Hiking trails follow the river with pathways branching off to 9th century churches. Their conditions range from collapsed ruins to carved chambered with colorful and well preserved frescos. 

Ihlara Cave Churches: 

• Daniel Pantonassa Church.  An elaborately decorated church with colorful and well preserved frescos of biblical scenes. It has the best frescos in the valley. 

• Purenli Seki Chuch.  A partially collapsed church with painted frescos still visible on its arched doorway. 

• Kokar Church.  A two chambered church with colorful frescos of biblical scenes and exposed in floor tombs. 

• Dark Castle Church.  A large monastery with scorched ceilings and surfaces. Arched passageways lead to grand chambers and burial crypts. 

• The Serpent Church.  A church with a singular nave and a burial crypt. Detailed and deteriorating frescos depicting biblical scenes cover its surfaces.

• Karagedik Church.  The ruins of a built church collapsed by a fallen boulder. Some arches with frescos remain visible amongst the rubble. 

• Janinth Church. A two level church built into the cliffside with a chiseled stone facade. An archway leads to its internal chambers and tombs. 

Diker Aile Çay Bahçesi.  A riverside cafe with a series of Persian tea houses lining its banks. 

Getting Here. Enter the valley from the Welcome Center, hiking counterclockwise along the river, crossing its bridges and visiting the ruins. Plan to spend at least a half day here. 

Turkish Cuisine 

Testi Kebab (Pottery Kebab).  Cappadocia’s famed kebab cooked inside a clay jar and cracked open with a large knife. It’s often made with meats, vegetables and spice then eaten with bread. 

Sultan’s Delight.  A savory roasted eggplant dish cooked with a cheesy roux. 

Etli Biber Dolmas.  A Turkish style of stuffed peppers filled with seasoned riced and boiled. It’s served hot or cold.

Simit.  A sesame seeded ring shaped pastry similar to a bagel. It’s commonly eaten at breakfast with coffee. 

Börek.  A snaked together flaky pastry stuffed with savory or sweet fillings. Try the spinach and cheese version. 

Döner Kebap.  A Turkish style sandwich made from slices of rotisserie grilled meat combined with veggies in a pita. 

Manti.  A small Turkish style noodle or dumpling.

Pide.  A ovular boat shaped pastry cradling a pool of melted cheese. It’s common on menus across the country.

Turkish Coffee.  Finely ground coffee slowly brewed in a long handed copper pot over heated sand. It has a smooth and strong flavor. 

Turkish Delight.  A gelatinous candy made with a range of flavors like rose, mint, lemon and orange. It’s cut into cubes and dusted in corn starch. Higher end versions are mixed with or encrusted in nuts and flowers then formed into elegant looking rolls or bricks. 

Baklava.  A flaky bite sized pastry made with layers of chopped nuts. It’s soaked in a sugar or honey glaze. It comes in a variety of styles and shapes. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Vinodocia Wine House.  A wine store in an ancient stone house with an underground cave used as a cellar. They sell local wines from Cappadocia and across Turkey. Come for a 5 glass tasting and leave with a bottle to bring home. 

Firin Expres.  A Turkish restaurant with a massive wood burning oven at its center. The chef bakes fresh bread, pide, pizzas and flaming jars of testi kebab. It’s one of the few places that has a vegetarian version. 

Develi Cıvıklısı Pita Parradise.  A restaurant specializing is various types of fresh baked pide like vegetarian, spinach and cheese, plain cheese and sausage. 

Hector Coffee House & Lounge.  A multi floor cafe in Göreme with a rooftop terrace and Persian style lounge. Come here for afternoon coffee and baklava. 

Mozaik Restaurant.  A cozy restaurant and bar with a warmly lit interior and Turkish wines. Come here for a mulled wine by the fireplace on a chilly night.

Where to Stay

Atilla’s Cave Hotel.  A cave hotel in the town of Nar with multiple rooms built into a 1,500 year old cave dwelling. The rooms are authentic, spacious and warmly lit making for a cozy stay. The hotel has a rooftop terrace and restaurant serving homestyle Turkish meals. Book on Airbnb. 

Hotel Philosophia.  A hostel in Uçhisar with private stone walled rooms and rustic bungalows near the center of town. Its garden patio and communal kitchen are perfect for relaxing and meeting other travelers. The host provides a daily breakfast spread with Turkish tea. Reserve on Hotels. 

Rental Car

Renting a car and driving between the valleys is the best way to see the sights and natural landscapes on your own time. We rented an economy car from Garenta at the airport for our week in the region. Driving was not too different than in other parts of Europe of the United States. 

Location Specifics

When to Visit.  We visited Cappadocia during the curb season in early October. The days were mild and evenings were cool making outdoor hikes through the valleys quite pleasant. 

How Long to Visit.  Plan on visiting Cappadocia for at least 5 days. This will give you enough time to visit several valleys at a leisurely pace. 

Avoid the Tours.  Tours allow visitors short on time to visit multiple sights in one day however they’re quite shallow. Most groups stop for a brief photo and move on. 

Wear Proper Footing.  Wear hiking boots or shoes with sturdy treads while hiking. The loose gravel and steep terrain can be treacherous. 

Language.  Turkish, the national languages is widely spoken in Cappadocia. Many people in the tourism industry speak a range of languages including English, Italian and Russian. 

Cash vs Card.  Most businesses accept credit card. Carry Turkish Lira for times when card machines are down. ATMs are plentiful in town centers. Foreign currencies like the Dollar or Euro are not accepted. 

Tipping.  A 10% tip or service charge is customary. Confirm if it’s including before paying or double tipping. 

For Next Time… 

Cappadocia is place of ancient history and incredible landscapes. We experienced a lot during our week and left with inspiration for our next trip to Turkey. 

Hot Air Balloon Flight.  Since our hot air balloon flight was repeatedly cancelled due to weather, we plan to try again on our next adventure here. 

Cave Dwelling Camping.  After seeing people camping in the Red Valley, we’ll be traveling with our camping gear and staying overnight in one of the ancient cave dwellings. 

Tuz GoluSalt Flats.  A vast salt lake home to flamingos, mirror-like reflections and picturesque sunsets. 

Catalhoyuk Archeological Site.  A neolithic archeological site with the excavated ruins of a Hittite city dating back to 7,500 BCE. 

Sagalassos Archelogical Site.  An ancient acropolis with ruins of baths, theaters and statues from the Greek and Roman empires. 

Istanbul Travel Guide: Neighborhoods, Historic Sights & Turkish Cuisine

Istanbul, Turkey

Istanbul is a stylish city at the cross roads of time and cultures. It straddles two continents, embracing its European charm and Middle Eastern influences. Vibrant neighborhoods are teeming with indie cafes, diverse restaurants, lively bars, sweets shops and all manner of boutiques. The modern metropolis has a storied history dating back to ancient times with historic sights, royal palaces, grand mosques and sprawling bazaars. 

Neighborhoods & Streets

Karaköy (Galata).  A hilly neighborhood centered on one of the city’s main landmarks, the medieval Galata Tower. The area is a beautiful place to stay and explore. Its cobblestone streets are lined with historic European architecture, vintage shops, artisan jewelers, Turkish restaurants, tiny cafes and happening bars. 

• Umbrella Street.  A photogenic street in Karaköy covered in a canopy of colorful umbrellas and grape vines. It’s lined with dozens of cafes and coffee shops. 

• Mumhane Street.  A trendy street home to elevated restaurants, cocktail bars, Turkish sweets shops, designer boutiques and street food stands.

• Sofyali Street.  A narrow street in the Karaköy with dozens of pubs and bars. Come here for local beers, cocktails and light bites. 

Eminönü.  A vast neighborhood of Istanbul home to historic sights, Ottoman style mosques and markets including the Grand Bazaar and Egyptian Market. 

Sultanahmet.  The oldest neighborhood of Istanbul home to cobble stone alleyways, neoclassical architecture and landmark sights like The Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace.

Kadikoy.  A trendy neighborhood on the Asian side of Istanbul. It’s a young and non touristy spot with bustling streets, dozens of cafes, cocktail bars and pubs. Come here on a Friday night to experience the city’s nightlife. Visit Fahri Konsolos and Lelabbo Modafor cocktails and Muhit Kadiköyfor local beers.

Getting Here. Kadikoy is reachable by a public ferry from the riverfronts in Eminönü and Karaköy. Ferries run every half an hour late into the night. 

See the Sights 

Hagia Sophia.  A landmark mosque and one of the most important buildings from the Byzantine period. It has survived over 1,700 years, witnessing the rise and fall of empires and religions. Its multi-domed structure features buttresses and Islamic minarets. The interior mezzanine offers views of its domed ceilings, stone walls, early Christian mosaics and emerald carpeted prayer hall.  

Hagia Sophia Museum.  A museum dedicated to the history of the Hagia Sophia and Istanbul. An audio visual guide narrates its key moments in time from the founding of Constantinople, the rise & fall of Byzantine & Ottoman Empires, the expansion of Christianity & Islam and centuries of additions & restorations.

Blue Mosque.  An iconic Ottoman style mosque with a series of domed roofs and pairs of tiered minarets. The interior prayer hall is adorned with hand painted blue tiles, elaborately painted ceilings and colorful stained glass windows. Massive columns support the domed structure while as series of suspended lanterns illuminate its interior. Entrance is fee. Plan to arrive before 8am.

Basilica Cistern.  A vast subterranean cistern from the 6th Century of Constantinople. Warm lights illuminate the cistern in a dim glow. Walkways lead above the flooded floor as columns reflect across the still water. Its vaulted brick ceilings are held up by hundreds of tall Corinthian style columns. Two of the most notable sit on the bases depicting the head of Medusa.  

Galata Tower.  A medieval watch tower built on a hill overlooking Istanbul. Its top floor boasts panoramic views or the sprawling city and the Bosporus River. A light show is projected on the facade at night Visit at 8:30am when it opens to avoid the crowds. 

Istanbul Archaeological Museum.  A museum housing a collection of ancient artifacts from across Mediterranean civilizations dating back thousands of years.

• The Sarcophagus Room features ornately carved marble sarcophagi decorated with battle scenes, mythical creatures and originally painted surfaces. 

• The Ancient Greek Hall displays life-life statues and reliefs of Greek gods, emperors and human figures like Apollo, Zeus and Alexander the Great. 

• The Treasures Hall showcases golden olive leaf crowns, jewelry and ancient coins minted with the faces of emperors from the ancient Roman, Greek and Byzantine empires. 

Chora Church.  An ancient stone church built more than 100 years before the Hagia Sophia. Its domed ceilings and vaulted interiors are adorned with 14th Byzantine mosaics. Some can be viewed for free from the outside. 

The Walls of Constantinople.  A 4th Century stone and brick wall surrounding the ancient city of Constantinople. It’s stationed with watch towers, arched gates and toothed battlements. The best preserved sections are along the Bosphorus River and Northwest side of the city. 

Aqueduct of Valens.  The remnants of a double arched aqueduct from the 4th century of Constantinople. Today cars drive through its arches along a modern road in the city of Istanbul. 

Suleymaniye Mosque.  The largest ottoman style mosque in Istanbul. It features a multi-domed roof, pairs of minarets and an arched courtyard and prayer hall adorned with Islamic calligraphy. Built on a hill, the outer lawn offers scenic views of the city. 

Visit the Sultan’s Palaces 

Topkapi Palace.  The historic and traditional palace of the Ottoman sultans. The grounds include ceremonial, administrative and living quarters used by the sultan, hist family and advisors. Many spaces have been converted into exhibits and museums. 

• Gate of Salutation.  A medieval style stone gate with twin spires. It makes the entrance to the palace grounds.

• Gülhane Park.  A city park built on the grounds of the former palace gardens. Stone paved walkways are flanked by grassy lawns, flowering gardens, towering sycamore trees, manicured hedges and Roman ruins. Food vendors wait outside of the park’s walls selling ears of corn, roasted chestnuts and simit.

• Baghdad Pavilion.  An ottoman style pavilion decorated in hand painted blue tiles and varying natural stones. Its ornate interior features a domed ceiling, colorful stained glass windows and a throne for the sultans. 

• The Marble Terrace.  A series of marble paved terraces with hilltop views overlooking the Bosphorus River, Golden Horn and city of Istanbul.

• Imperial Treasury.  An opulent exhibit with the Crown Jewels and priceless treasures of the Ottoman Empire. On display are golden and bejeweled objects including jewelry, thrones, medals, daggers, swords, armor and Qurans covers. 

• Sultan's Clothing Exhibit.  A two floor exhibit of the Sultan’s traditional clothing. On display are ceremonial outfits, military uniforms, intricately embroidered tunics, fur lined kaftans and accessories like turbans, fezes, boots and belts.

• The Holy Relics.  A palace hall with artifacts from the various profits of the Abrahamic religions. On display is the staff of Moses, the sword of David, a Skull fragment of John the Baptist, the Robe of Mohammad and the Coat of Fatima.

Dolmabahçe Palace.  An opulent and lavish palace built along the banks of the Bosphorus River. It was built by the Ottoman Sultan’s to rival the royal palaces of Europe, combining neoclassical and baroque styles. 

• Selamlik.  A truly lavish building used to run state affairs. Its gilded interiors are styled with marble columns, intricately patterned wood floors and Baroque style ceilings. Beige painted walls are decorated with gold framed mirrors and portraits of the sultans. Rooms are furnished with Persian carpets, crystal chandeliers and antique furniture. 

• The Crystal Staircase.  A double horseshoe shaped staircase and key feature of the Selamlik. Crystal banisters line each step as a massive crystal chandelier hands overhead.

• The Harem.  The ornate living quarters for the sultan and his family. Its interior chambers include apartments, halls, baths and wardrobes for the sultan, his mother and multiple wives. 

• National Painting Museum.  A building designed for the sultan’s heirs. It’s now an art museum displaying Ottoman and Turkish paintings. Galleries showcase portraits of the sultans and princes, the Ottoman navy, seasonal scenes of Istanbul, its iconic mosques and the Bosporus River. 

• Pro Tip.  Visit the second floor parlor cafe for Turkish coffee and a slice of mosaic cake. 

• Good to Know.  No photos are allowed inside of any of the palace buildings. 

Shop the Markets & Bazaars

The Grand Bazaar.  A historic complex with thousands of shops built into a sprawling network of covered streets, domed passageways and vaulted arcades. Merchants sell Turkish coffee makers, Persian rugs, Ottoman lamps, gold jewelry, antiques, leather goods, faux designer bags and Turkish sweets. Visit during the early afternoon and stop by Çarşu Kebapfor a traditional Turkish lunch. 

The Egyptian Market (Spice Market).  A vaulted passageway lined with shops selling colorful piles of spices, herbal teas, dried fruits and Turkish delight, nougat and baklava. Shop around for the best prices and always negotiate for a deal. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

Ali Muhiddin Hacı Bekir.  The original confectioner that perfected the recipe for Turkish Delight. Their chain of unassuming shops isn’t as flashy as others but attracts loyal locals and those with a love of the famed treat. 

Galata Kitchen.  A restaurant with a selection of Turkish and Mediterranean dishes sold by the plate. Try the artichoke hearts, grape leaves, stuffed peppers, stewed eggplant and beet salad. 

Çarşu Kebap.  A Turkish restaurant along a side passage of the Grand Bazaar. While they specialize in meat, they offer vegetarian dishes like lentil soup, cucumber tazkiki with cheese pide. 

Vegan Community Kitchen Restaurant.  A small restaurant serving homestyle vegan versions of traditional Turkish dishes like Döner Kebap and Manti.

Tarihi Eminönü Balik Ekmek.  A riverfront restaurant serving Balik Ekmek, sandwiches with filets of mackerel griddled on a floating kitchen. It’s a hyper local place to enjoy an affordable meal. 

Daroute Coffee.  A cafe nearby the Blue Mosque with traditional Turkish Coffee. Order the set paired with Turkish Delight and hibiscus juice. 

Tarihi Cihangir Simit Firni.  A historic hole in the wall bakery with homestyle baklava, simit, pide and pastries. Come here for their sweet and savory Turkish bakes

Privato Cafe.  A breakfast spot specializing in traditional Turkish spreads served with breads, jams, butters, cheeses, sweet and savory pastries, fried eggs and tea. 

Fahri Konsolos.  A pocket bar with elegantly presented cocktails and signature drinks made with seasonal ingredients. Try the gin forward cucumber and rose cocktail or mule mug topped with olive oil fried parsley.

Muhit Kadıköy.  A popular pub style bar with inexpensive drinks and light bites. Come here for Turkish beers and flavored French fries. 

Lelabbo Moda.  A bar with a vintage atmosphere and classic cocktails made with house techniques as well as a range of creative signature cocktails. Try the Smoked Fiesta and Burnt Not Smoked. 

Benden Karaköy.  A street side restaurant and bar along the Umbrella Street with Turkish dishes and wines. Try the Yeni Raki, a local anise flavored liquor mixed with water. 

Tower Pub.  A cocktail bar steps away from the Galata Tower. Come here for the chill vibes, local beers and well made cocktails. 

Turkish Cuisine 

Döner Kebap.  A Turkish style sandwich made from slices of rotisserie grilled meat combined with veggies in a pita. 

Manti.  A small Turkish style dumping often filled with meat and garnished with yogurt. 

Balık Ekmek.  A Turkish fish sandwich made with filets of griddled mackerel, lettuce and tomatoes. 

Pide.  A ovular boat shaped pastry cradling a pool of melted cheese. It’s common on menus across the country. 

Simit.  A sesame seeded ring shaped pastry similar to a bagel. It’s commonly eaten at breakfast with coffee. 

Börek.  A snaked together flaky pastry stuffed with savory or sweet fillings. Try the spinach and cheese version. 

Midye Dolma (Stuffed Mussels).  A common street food snack served at carts across the city. Mussels are stuffed with rice, berries and spices then served with a generous squeeze of lemon. 

Turkish Delight.  A gelatinous candy made with a range of flavors like rose, mint, lemon and orange. It’s cut into cubes and dusted in corn starch. Higher end versions are mixed with or encrusted in nuts and flowers then formed into elegant looking rolls or bricks. 

Turkish Coffee.  Finely ground coffee slowly brewed in a long handed copper pot over heated sand. It has a smooth and strong flavor.

Baklava.  A flaky bite sized pastry made with layers of chopped nuts. It’s soaked in a sugar or honey glaze. It comes in a variety of styles and shapes. 

Getting Around 

Public Transit.  The city’s metro, trams, buses and ferries are the best way to travel across Istanbul. Buy a reloadable Istanbul Card from one of the kiosks at any metro station to use across all lines including to or from the airport. 

Uber.  Uber is available in Istanbul. It’s a good for getting across the city quickly though can be expensive compared to public transit. 

On Foot.  Plan to spend time exploring neighborhoods on foot. It’s the best way to experience the vibrant urban landscape of the city, its history and culture. 

Where to Stay

Mayer Tatarbeyi.  An apartment building with different style short term rentals. We stayed in a street view apartment with a comfy bed, cozy living area and kitchenette. The building has a rooftop terrace with city views! Reserve on Booking. 

Location Specifics 

When to Visit.  Istanbul is beautiful in late September and early October. It’s a quieter time to visit, post peak season. Try to visit major attractions during the morning on weekdays to avoid the largest crowds. 

Language.  Turkish is the national language however English is commonly spoken by most people, written on menus, museum descriptions and transit signs. 

Cash Vs Card.  Credit card is widely accepted across the city. It’s good to carry some Turkish Lira for cash only business or places with minimum spends. 

Beware of Pricing Scams.  Confirm the price before ordering or buying anything not clearly marked. If paying by card, confirm the price again before charging it. 

Tipping.  A 10% tip is standard across Turkey. It’s often included on most bills when paying. 

Visiting Mosques.  Non-Muslims can enter most mosques outside of prayer times. Plan to dress modestly by covering your legs and shoulders. Women must cover their hair. 

Buying Baklava.  When buying baklava, avoid the tourist shops on the busy streets and seek out a small local bakery. The baklava will be tastier and cheaper. 

Stray Cats.  Street cats and kittens are lovingly embraced in Istanbul. They’re a common sight across the city and strolling through business.

Smoking.  Smoking is extremely common in Istanbul. People light up in restaurants, bars and on the street. It’s practically unavoidable for non-smokers or people with allergies. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Istanbul is a welcoming and accepting city in a more conservative country. We had no problems as an openly gay couple, wearing our wedding rings, dressing as ourselves or sharing a bed. PDA is frowned upon between most people. 

For Next Time…

Istanbul is one of the few destinations we could see ourselves living! When we return, it may be for an extended period of time. Having visited the tourist sights, we plan to experience more local areas of the city and return to the neighborhood of Kadikoy. 

Sousse Travel Guide: Ancient Medina, El Jem & Kairouan

Sousse, Tunisia

Sousse is a historic port town along the Mediterranean shores of Tunisia. It’s a place where ancient times meets modern day. Tunisian culture and history thrive in the narrow alleys and bustling souks of the walled Medina. The nearby Islamic holy city of Kairouan and the ancient Roman city of El Jem transport visitors back even further in time. Sousse’s modern center, lively cafes and golden sand beaches offer places to relax and forget about time.

The Medina of Sousse 

The Medina of Sousse is a densely packed old town dating back to the early 9th Century. Its stone walls encompass early Islamic architecture, defensive fortresses and centuries old mosques. Cobblestone alleyways weave between white painted buildings adorned with blue and yellow painted wooden doors. Archways lead into vaulted tunnels and lively souks.

Rue el Aghlaba.  A central road in the Medina leading from the Great Mosque of Sousse to the Bab El-Finga. Its lined with stone and white painted buildings, historic minarets, small cafes and shops.  

Driba Square.  A stone paved plaza in a residential area of the Medina surrounded by ornate Tunisian buildings and blue painted doors. 

Ave Soudan.  A picturesque road along the southern wall of the Medina leading leading fromBab El-Kebli to the Kasbah Citadel. Walk the narrow alleyway inside the Medina and the outer road following the wall. 

See the Sights 

The Great Mosque of Sousse.  A medieval mosque and one of the oldest sights in Sousse. It’s built as a fortress with a tall stone wall and minaret that doubles as a defensive tower. An arched corridor lines the interior courtyard. Minimal details and inscriptions from the Quran decorate its stone surfaces. Large wooden doors open to the prayer hall, only visible from the outside to non-Muslims. 

Ribat of Sousse.  A stone defensive fortress built in 821 CE to protect the ancient city of Sousse from invaders. The multilevel structure is shaped like a classic Middle Ages castle with a square design, round bastions and walls with toothed battlements. The interior courtyard is flanked by arched corridors and a series of rooms. A tower looms high above its base, offering views of the ancient Medina and Mediterranean Sea.

Walls of Sousse Medina.  The Medina is surrounded by a towering stone wall, series of ramparts, arched gates and defensive fortresses. The well preserved wall dates back to the early 9th Century, enclosing and protecting the ancient city. 

Les Remparts des Sousse.  A hilly section of the north wall lined with a series of defensive watch towers. It’s best viewed from a narrow palm lined park on the outside of the wall during the mid or late afternoon.

Kasbah Citadel.  A towering fortress on the northern hill of the Medina with tall stone walls, canons and a lighthouse. It can be viewed from outside the wall and from within the Sousse Archeological Museum. The kasbah itself is closed due to ongoing military activity. 

Sousse Archeological Museum.  A museum with the second largest collection of Roman era mosaics, primarily discovered in modern day Sousse. Given the port city’s location on the Mediterranean, many mosaics feature Roman sea gods, mythical sea creatures, marine animals, fishing scenes and ships. Other mosaics include scenes from everyday life including commonly eaten foods, horse races, comedy and hunting. Some are so detailed that they portray vivid facial expressions, shadows and patterns on clothes. 

Shop the Souks 

Sousse Medina Souk (Rue d’Angelterre).  The Medina’s main souk leading from behind the Great Mosque of Sousse to the south gate, Bab El-Kebli. It’s lined with shops and vendors selling leather goods, woven rugs, olive wood kitchenware, colorful ceramics, perfumes, Tunisian sweets, street food, dates and spices. 

Souk El-Caïd.  A souk leading from the west gate Bab El-Gharbi to Rue d’Angelterre. The stepped street is lined with shops, restaurants, cafes and a tunneled section with jewelry shops. 

Good to Know.  Half of the shops and vendors stay closed on days when a cruise ship is not docked. 

Pro Tip.  Haggle and negotiate for the best price. Offer 20% of the first price, expecting to meet somewhere in the middle. Don’t be afraid to walk away. 

Relax on the Beaches 

Bou Jaafar Beach.  A white sand beach with a seaside promenade. It’s the closest beach to the Medina yet sparsely visited. There are a couple spots to rent umbrellas and beach lounges. 

Sousse Beach.  A lengthy white sand beach in the Sousse’s hotel zone. It’s the city’s most popular beach with umbrella and beach lounge rentals, restaurants and cafes and marine activities. 

Enjoy the Cafes 

Café et Restaurant Kasbah.  A cafe in the middle of the Medina along Souk El-Caïd. Come here for Turkish sand coffee made street side. Sit inside, surrounded by an eclectic mix of decor like patterned rugs and antique artifacts. 

Dar Chatt Coffee Shop.  A quiet beachfront cafe and restaurant near the city center. Come here to enjoy a coffee while overlooking the deep blue hues of the Mediterranean. 

Visit The Holy City of Kairouan

Kairouan is an ancient city, regarded as the fourth most holy city in Islam. Its Islamic architecture and religious sights make it a place of pilgrimage for Muslims. It’s easily reachable on a day trip from Sousse. 

The Medina of Kairouan

A pristine stone wall surrounds the ancient Medina of Kairouan. Inside are historic mosques and mausoleums, cobblestone alleyways and tunnels, souks selling handmade rugs and Tunisian pastries. Buildings are supported by stone columns repurposed from the ruins of Carthage. Blue and green painted doors accent white plastered walls and golden stone facades.

Ave Habib Bourguiba.  A central road leading through the Medina between the Jalladin and Tunis Gates. It’s lined with storefronts and vendors selling Berber rugs, local pastries, tin tea sets, jewelry and clothes. 

Jalladin Gate.  One of several arched gates along the stone wall leading into the Medina. It leads to the bustling south side of Ave Habib Bourguiba. 

Tunis Gate.  An arched gate leading into the Medina. It’s flanked with marble columns from the ruins of Carthage. It leads to the north side of Ave Habib Bourguiba. 

El Jadid Gate.  A double arched gate with marble columns from Carthage. along the western corner of the Medina. It frames the minaret of the Zeitouna Mosque. 

Place des Martyres.  A plaza outside of the Jalladin Gate with views of the Medina’s stone wall and guard towers.

The Grand Mosque of Kairouan.  One of the holiest places in Islam and one of the world’s oldest mosques. It dates back to 670 CE, just decades after the religion’s founding. It served as a model for all future mosques in the Maghreb (the western Arab world). Its inner courtyard can be visited while prayer hall is only visible to non-Muslims. 

• The Exterior.  The mosque is reminiscent of the Medina’s wall with a golden stone facade, horseshoe shaped arches and minimal detailing. Its square stepped minarets feature a ribbed dome roof with a crescent moon and arched windows.

• The Inner Courtyard.  A large marble tiled courtyard flanked by arched corridors built with mismatched stone columns repurposed from the ruins of Carthage. The mosques two minarets stand opposite each other, announcing the Muslim call to prayer. Small sun dials are built into sections of the inner walls.

• The Prayer Hall.  Large wooden doors with ornate designs lead inside of the dimly lit prayer hall. Woven mats cover the floor where worshipers pray. Roman columns support stone arches and wooden beams. Conical chandeliers hang from the ceiling. The rear wall features geometric patterns and shapes of mosques in Islam’s four holy cities. Non Muslims cannot enter the prayer hall however it’s open for viewing. 

• Good to Know.  Dress modestly, covering legs and shoulders. Women need to cover their hair with a hat or scarf. Coverings can be borrowed from the ticket desk. 

Tapis Okba Terrace.  A rooftop cafe with views of the Grand Mosque and Medina. It’s accessible through a Tunisian rug shop with no pressure to buy anything. 

Mausolée Sidi Abid el Ghariani.  An ornate mausoleum with the entombed remains of a 14th Century Islamic scholar. Its surfaces are embellished with hand illustrated tiles, elaborate plasterwork, intricately painted wooden panels and interlaced geometric stonework. The central courtyard features Ottoman and Moorish influences like tiles depicting Istanbul’s Blue Mosque and horseshoe shaped arches. 

Good to Know.  The ticket from the Grand Mosque includes access to the mausoleum.

Ouled Farhane Graveyard.  An Islamic cemetery located outside of the walled Medina near the Grand Mosque. It’s comprised of white painted graves and simple headstones. 

Mosque of the Three Doors.  A small but historic stone mosque in the Medina named after its three domed doors. The stone work above is inscribed with Islamic inscriptions and decorative flourishes. The surrounding streets are lined with artisans weaving and selling Berber style wool rugs. 

Bir Barrouta.  A very unique cafe on the second floor of a stone building in the Medina. It’s built around a historic well operated by a camel drawn wheel that lifts buckets of water to the surface. The cafe makes coffees and teas using water from the well. Try the Turkish coffee. 

Makroudh Barrak.  A bakery in the middle of the Medina along Ave Habib Bourguiba with Tunisian pastries like its namesake, Makroudh. Makroudhis a deep fried date filled cookie made with semolina flower and covered in a honey glaze. 

Visit the Ancient City of El Jem

El Jem is an ancient city with Roman colosseums, archeological ruins and intricate marble mosaics. It’s easily reachable on a day trip from Sousse.

Colosseum of El Jem.  One of the best preserved colosseums outside of Rome and the third largest in the Roman Empire, capable of holding 35,000 spectators. 

• The Exterior.  Three levels of golden limestone, stacked arches and Corinthian style columns wrap the ovular colosseum. The grand structure towers above the city, only rivaled by the minarets of modern day mosques. 

• The Interior.  Arched corridors circulate through the colosseum while staircases step up to multiple levels to where bleachers one stood. Lower levels offer front row views of the arena and upper level provide a panorama of the entire colosseum. A restored marble section overlooks the arena.

• The Arena & Dungeons.  Passages lead to the arena where gladiators once fought and ancient performances took place. Stairs descend to underground tunnels and chambers with cells for prisoners, lions and chariots.

• Pro Tip.  The ticket to the colosseum of El Jem doubles as a ticket to the El Jem Archeological Museum and Thysdrus Archaeological Park. 

Roman Theater of El Jem.  The stone ruins of a smaller unmaintained colosseum. Crumbling stands and bleachers surround the ovular arena with piles of rubble. It’s sparsely visited and free to enter. 

El Jem Archeological Museum.  A museum with galleries of Roman mosaics from the ruins of El Jem.Walls are adorned with well preserved mosaics recovered from the floors of ancient villas. Tiny pieces of stone compose colorful images of Roman gods, musical instruments, African animals, hunting scenes, floral designs and geometric patterns. Some are so detailed that they look like handwoven tapestries. The museum also includes access to the Thysdrus Archaeological Park.

Thysdrus Archaeological Park.  The ruins of several Roman estates, once common in the ancient city of Thysdrus. Walkways lead between partially restored foundations, walls and columns of the sprawling residences. Millenia old mosaics of various conditions span the floors. Many of which feature similar designs and patterns to those preserved inside the museum.

The House of Africa.  A restored ancient residence from the 2nd Century with a column lined courtyard and a range of interior spaces. Rooms feature beautiful mosaic floors with illustrations of Roman gods and goddesses, African animals, geometric patterns and colorful marble tiles. Marble torsos from ancient statues and crowns of Corinthian columns line the corridors. 

Tunisian Cuisine 

Ojja (Tunisian Shakshouka).  A savory tomato stew made with poached eggs, harissa and aromatic vegetables. It can be made vegetarian, with seafood or various meats.

Kafteji.  A mix of fried vegetables like eggplants, zucchinis, tomatoes, bell pepper and potato. It’s usually stuffed inside or eaten with baguette.

Mechouia Salad.  A salsa style Tunisian salad made with grilled vegetables like tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, garlic and onion. It’s garnished with tuna, olives, egg and parsley. 

Brik.  A deep fried bread roll stuffed with tuna, olives, eggs and harissa. It’s a common street food snack. 

Fricassee.  A deep fried crepe stuffed with egg, tuna, potatoes, olives and harissa. It’s a common street food snack. 

Makroudh.  Fried date filled cookies made with semolina flower. They’re covered in a honey glaze and garnished with sesame seeds. 

Lablabi.  A savory and spiced chickpea stew served on top of toasted garlic bread with olives and fresh parsley. 

Chorba.  A spiced vegetable and chickpea noodle soup. 

Rouz Jerbi.  A aromatic rice dish made with chickpeas, carrots spinach and a range of North African spices. 

Where to Stay

Medina Airbnb.  We stayed on the top floor of an apartment in the historic Medina of Sousse. It included a bedroom, large living room and well equipped kitchen. One of the highlights was the private rooftop terrace with views of the Medina, new city and sea. It’s located above a bakery near the south gate, Bab El-Kebli. 

Getting Around

Getting to Sousse by Train. Take a regional train from Tunis’s main train station, Gare de Tunis, to Sousse. Check train schedules and book tickets in person a day in advance. First class tickets cost about 12 Dinar, second class tickets cost about 9 Dinar. Trains are often delayed by one to two hours. It’s probably quicker to take a Louage. 

Getting to El Jem by Louage. El Jem can be visited in a half day from Sousse. Take a Louage from the Al Lawajat Station in Sousse. Buy tickets from a booth inside a large warehouse filled with the shared taxi vans. Look for the line that says El Jem or the man shouting “El Jem, El Jem.” Tickets cost about 7 Dinar per person. The ride takes less than an hour.

Getting to Kairouan by Louage. Kairouan can be visited in a half day from Sousse. Take a Louage from the Al Lawajat Station in Sousse. Buy tickets from a booth on the back side of a large warehouse filled with the shared taxi vans. Look for the line that says Kairouan. Tickets cost about 7 Dinar per person.

Louage (Shared Taxis). Louages are shared taxi vans with a red or yellow stripe down their sides. They’re used by locals to get between cities, towns and across the country. They’re often faster than trains and significantly cheaper than taxis. Tickets can be purchased at Louage stations in each town. Vans only leave when they’re full. Louages operate from 7am until 5-5:30pm at the very latest.

Language & Phrases 

Arabic and French are commonly spoken throughout Tunisia. Some locals also speak English, Spanish and Italian. Download offline languages with Google Translate to help communicate. 

English to Arabic: 

• Hello = Salem  

• Goodbye = Ma'a Salama

• Thank you = Shukran

• You’re Welcome = Marhaba

English to French: 

• Hello = Bonjour (daytime) Bonsoir (nighttime) 

• Goodbye = Au Revoir

• Thank you = Merci 

• You’re Welcome = De Rien 

Location Specifics

Cash vs Card.  A vast majority of purchases are cash only. Credit card is rarely accepted. Withdraw Tunisian Dinar from local ATMs or convert foreign cash at the airport. 

Affordability.  Tunisia is a very budget friendly destination. Accommodations, transportation, dining out and sightseeing are easily inexpensive when traveling on a budget. 

Medina Hours.  The Medina slowly begins waking up around 7am. It’s fully bustling by mid morning and abruptly shuts down around 4pm.

Mosques.  Most mosques are off limits to non Muslims. They can usually be viewed from the outside. 

Staring.  It’s part of the culture for men to stare. You’ll often be stared down as you walk past shops in the souks, sidewalk cafes and by people sitting in cars. It’s best to ignore it and not think anything of it. 

Avoid School Children.  Stay clear of groups of tween and teenage school children. They’ll surround you, shout at you, mock you and ask for money. 

LGBTQ+ Safety & Dangers

Tunisia is not a safe destination for LGBTQ+ travelers. The government and a large percentage of the population have strong anti LGBTQ+ beliefs. Government polices criminalize LGBTQ+ people with punishments including fines, imprisonment, torture and deportation. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Entrapment Schemes.  Some locals that suspect you of being gay will try to entrap you and make you to admit it. Shortly after beginning a conversation, they will abruptly change topics and ask outright, “are you gay?” Irrefutably say no, look offended, end the conversation and leave as quickly as possible. This happened to us multiple times, in different locations including taxis, at markets and on the street.  

Elsewhere in Tunisia 

We spent a week exploring Tunisia, venturing beyond Sousse, El Jem and Kairouan to stay in the capital city of Tunis with day trips to the Mediterranean town of Sidi Bou Said and ancient capital of Carthage. 

For Next Time…

If we ever return to Tunisia, we would love to have a “Star Wars” themed moment. 

Stay in a Troglodyte Home.  A circular dugout cave dwelling like the one lived in by Luke Skywalker’s aunt and uncle. 

Mos Espa Film Set.  Tour the film set used in the prequels where Anakin Skywalker grew up. 

Visit Tatooine.  An actual city in the south of the country that inspired the desert planet. 

Tunis Travel Guide: Carthage, Medina & Tunisian Culture

Tunis, Tunisia

Tunis is a vibrant Mediterranean city in North African country of Tunisia. Its history dates back thousands of years, spanning numerous civilizations and cultures. Tunis is famed for its ancient Carthaginian ruins, historic mosques and picturesque Medina.

The Medina of Tunis 

The Medina of Tunis is a maze of historic buildings, energetic souks and bustling sidewalk cafes. Cobblestone streets and vaulted tunnels weave through the old town. Brightly colored wooden doors embellished with studded designs and bronze knockers accent facades of simple white painted buildings. There’s truly beauty in getting lost here and exploring the Medina’s history, sights and souks. 

Rue Achour.  A cobblestone street on the northern side of the Medina lined with a series of beautiful stone buildings designed with blue painted shutters, arched windows and hand painted tiles.

Rue de la Kasbah.  A narrow street leading through the center of Medina from Bab El Bhar to the Kasbah Square. The half closest to the gate is full of clothing and shoe vendors. The half closest to the square is lined with many street food and takeaway restaurants. 

Rue Sidi Ben Arous.  A lengthy street that passes through the middle of the Medina past quiet residential areas, bustling souks and historic mosques. 

Rue du Pacha.  A quiet street of the Medina leading to a hidden plaza with a large fountain at its center. 

The Sights of The Medina

Zitouna Mosque.  A historic mosque and Islamic university in the center of the Medina dating back to the 7th century. It features a grand minaret, column lined courtyard and stone masonry repurposed from the ruins of Carthage. It’s not accessible to non Muslims but can be viewed from nearby rooftops like Cafe Panorama. 

Hamouda Bay Mosque.  An Ottoman style mosque with an octagonal stone minaret. It’s one of the most iconic mosques on Rude Sidi Ben Arous, framed by a series of arched tunnels. 

Sidi Youssef Dey Mosque.  A 17th Century mosque and mausoleum, famed for being the first Ottoman mosque built in Tunis. Like most mosques, non Muslims cannot enter. 

Bab Mnara.  A 12th Century gate leading into the Medina. It passes through a vaulted stone tunnel built using Carthaginian columns. The historic minaret of the El Ksar Mosque towers above it. 

Dar Lasram Palace.  An elaborately designed 19th century palace in the center of the Medina. Its interior walls are covered in colorful hand painted tiles. Tall ceilings are adorned with gold leafed and painted wooden panels. The central courtyard features marble columns, highly ornamented plaster arches and carved wooden doors leading to stately rooms. 

Good to Know.  There are no official hours. If the front door is open, the palace is available to tour. Tickets cost 5 TND. 

Madrasa Slimania.  A former Islamic University built in the mid 18th Century during Ottoman rule. Its central courtyard features black and white arches, marble columns and green roof tiles. An ornately tiled foyer, prayer room and series of individual studies surround the courtyard. 

Good to Know.  Now a cultural center, it’s free to enter if the doors are open.

Roman Aqueducts of Bardo.  The lengthy ruins of a 2nd Century Roman aqueduct. Its tall stone and brick columns are bridged by a series of arched. It spans a street in the middle of a residential neighborhood, towering over adjacent houses. 

Borj Zouwara Fort.  The crumbling ruins of a stone fortress. Its round turrets and walls are perched on a hill in a residential area with panoramic views of the city. It’s free to visit and explore, though not well maintained are littered with broken glass and trash. 

Bab El Bhar.  A historic stone gate connecting the Medina and new city located in Victory Square. 

Victory Square.  A small plaza located on the edge of the Medina with two fountains, historic buildings and access to the souks.

Avenue Habib Bourguiba.  A tree lined avenue leading from Bab El Bhar to the Tunis Clock Tower. It’s lined with historic buildings like the French Embassy, Municipal Theater and St Vincent de Paul Theater.

Tunis Clock Tower.  An obelisk shaped clock tower in the city center covered in arabesque patterns.

Kasbah Square.  A large tiled plaza in the Medina surrounded by stately government buildings, a mosque and historic school and walled ruins. Visit in the early morning to watch the military raise the Tunisian flag. Avoid taking photos of any uniformed officers. 

Visit The Bardo National Museum

The Bardo National Museum is a vast museum housing the world’s largest collection of Roman mosaics.and artifacts from the ancient city of Carthage and past Mediterranean civilizations. The museum itself is an architectural and historical wonder, built within the former 19th Century palace. Spend a half to full day here, exploring the galleries and rooms. 

Carthage Room.  A grand hall with rows of marble statues and well preserved mosaics of Roman gods and the Emperor Augustus. 

Roman Villas Room.  A The reception room of the 19th Century palace with an elaborately designed domed ceiling. It features exquisite mosaics from the 4th century depicting scenes of daily life including fishing, wildlife, hunting and the ancient gods. 

The Virgile Room.  An elaborately designed room with an intricate plaster dome. It features important mosaics and sub-rooms with treasures like bronze statues, a golden breast plate, a jar with over 40,000 ancient coins and gold jewelry from the Punic, Roman and Egyptian periods.   

Marine Mosaics Room.  A large room with sprawling mosaics of the sea gods, sea creatures and fishing voyages. 

Petite Palace.  A palace relocated from the Tunis Medina with extremely well preserved rooms and courtyards featuring hand painted tiled walls, marble floors and columns, ornately carved plaster ceilings and original furniture. 

Constantine Room.  A room displaying stone funerary stelae and marble sarcophagi carved with portraits, motifs and poems of the deceased

Shop the Souks & Markets 

The Medina of Tunis is home to a variety of souks, traditional marketplaces full of shops, artisans, cafes and vendors. The souks meander through the heart of the Medina, encompassing narrow cobblestone streets and vaulted passageways. 

Souk el Bey.  A vaulted complex with coffee shops, cafes, take away restaurants and hat shops. An eclectic variety of tables and chairs litter the corridors. Locals come here to relax, meet, sip on coffee and smoke. 

Souk El Attarine.  One of the most bustling souks in the Medina. Its variety of shops and authentic atmosphere attracts both locals and tourists. Vendors sell perfumes, brass jewelry, linen clothes, leather bags, woven textiles, brassware, paintings, olive wood cookware and souvenirs. 

Pastry Souk.  Though not officially a souk, a corner within Souk El Attarine is is lined with a dozen bakeries and food carts selling Tunisian sweets and patisserie. Some vendors even hand out free samples. Try the Makroudh, a fried date filled cookie made with semolina flower. They’re covered in a honey glaze and garnished with sesame seeds.

Souk Trok & Souk Al Berka.  Two large covered streets with numerous jewelers selling antique silver, golden wearables and sparkling stones. 

Central Market of Tunis.  A large farmers market outside of the Medina with tables of vendors selling fresh vegetables, fruits, herbs, meats and seafood. Shop for strings of dried dates, various types of brined olives, fresh baked French and Tunisian breads, creamy farmers cheeses, homemade harissa and Mediterranean seafood!

Explore the Ancient Ruins of Carthage 

Carthage is the ancient capital city of the Carthaginian Empire. It ruled the Western Mediterranean for nearly a millennia from 800 BCE until defeat by the Romans in the Punic Wars. The city is home to Roman ruins of ancient baths, amphitheaters, villas, aqueducts, cisterns and tiled mosaics.

Baths of Antoninus.  The ruins of an ancient seaside bathing complex built during the 2nd Century. The baths are one of the largest built during the Roman Empire, featuring swimming pools, gyms, hot and cold rooms. Walkways lead through crumbling stone tunnels and arches, into open areas, cisterns and former rooms. Remains of stone mosaics, colorful marbles, limestone capitals of Corinthian columns and Latin lettered engravings litter the ruins.

The Roman Villas District.  A former Roman neighborhood home to the Carthaginian elite. Stone foundations, low height walls and columns from the ruined villas remain. Sections of ancient mosaics and marble tiles still decorate several floors. Pieces of clay pottery can be found scattered throughout. Olive and pomegranate trees grow from the ruins of several villas. Exposed wells peer into underground storage chambers. 

The Roman Villas of the Aviary.  The partially preserved ruins of a hilltop villa in the Roman Villas District. It’s named after a series of exquisite mosaics featuring birds and other animals. The villa displays the torosos of marble statues, granite columns and stone walls from likely once grand rooms. 

Mosaic of the Winning Horses.  A well preserved floor mosaic at The Roman Villas of the Aviary. The finely detailed mosaic features sections of equestrian scenes, horses, people, florals and birds. Colorful marble tiles with geometric patterns alternate between the mosaics.  

The Amphitheater of Carthage.  The ruins of a 1st Century amphitheater used for gladiator battles and public executions. Its ovular stone walls, toppled columns, underground tunnels and prison cells remain.

The Odeon Theatre of Iklibis Carthage.  The ruins of a half circular amphitheater. A viewing hill, stone foundations and toppled columns form a ring around the central stage. Exposed tunnels and passageways once transported lions, gladiators and prisoners for public spectacles.

The Roman Theater of Carthage.  A restored Roman amphitheater dating back to ancient times and still in use today. Its crescent shaped stone bleachers have held spectators and performances over the millennia.

Cisterns of La Malga.  A vast complex of Roman cisterns and aqueducts used to supply Carthage and the Baths of Antoninus with fresh water. The ruins can be viewed from a roadside lookout. 

Tips for Visiting Carthage: 

• Time Needed.  Many of the ruins are within walking distance of each other, making them easily accessible. The major sights can be visited in a half day however a full day is needed to explore many of the smaller sights. Plan to begin exploring at 8am before tour buses from the cruises arrive. 

• Tickets.  A single ticket allows entry to most ruins. It can be purchased from any of the major sights like the Baths of Antoninus or The Roman Villas District. 

• Getting to Carthage.  Take the 347 Bus from Tunis (Tunis Gare Marine) to Carthage (Carthage-Hannibal Station). Buses leave regularly from in front of the station, taking between 30 minutes and one hour. Tickets cost 1 Dinar one way. 

Visit Sidi Bou Said

Sidi Bou Said is a dreamy and picturesque town perched on an evergreen hillside overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Cobblestone streets and narrow alleyways lead past white buildings accented with blue painted windows and doors. A floral fragrance fills the air as flowering trees overhang homes. It can be visited in tandem with a day trip to Carthage from Tunis.  

Rue Hedi Zarrouk.  The main street leading through Sidi Bou Said. Its cobble stone streets lead past blue and white painted buildings, restaurants, cafes and numerous souvenir shops. 

Good to Know.  It can get crowded when there’s a cruise ship is docked in Tunis.Explore the quiet and picturesque side streets. Most tourists don’t leave the main street. 

Panoramic Viewpoints.  There are multiple panoramic viewpoints of Sidi Bou Said and the Mediterranean Sea throughout town. They’re all free with photogenic views. 

• City View Panorama.  A hilltop panoramic lookout of the Sidi Bou Said’s rooftops and the Mediterranean Sea. 

• Mediterranean Panorama.  A lookout point at the end of a narrow alleyway with cliffside views of the Mediterranean Sea. 

• Sidi Bou Said Viewing Point.  A cliffside lookout point of the Mediterranean Sea near the end of town on Rue Hedi Zarrouk.

• 365 Steps Punto Panoramico.  A scenic lookout of Sidi Bou Said’s verdant hillside. The steps connect Rue Hedi Zarrouk and Sidi Bou Said Beach. 

Bambalouni Sidi Bou Said.  A street side kitchen frying Bambalouni, Tunisian donuts dusted in sugar. They almost obligatory when walking through town. 

Getting Here.  Sidi Bou Said is easily accessible from Carthage. There are multiple ways to get here. 

• By Taxi.  Hail a yellow cab off the street. Ask to be taken to Mosque Al-Ghufran at the entrance to town. Negotiate price before getting in, expect to pay no more than 10 Dinar. Rides take less than 10 minutes.

• By Bus.  Take the 347 Bus from any of the roadside bus stops. Tickets can be purchased onboard for 1 Dinar.

• On Foot.  It takes 45 minutes to walk from Carthage to Sidi Bou Said. This is a great option if not on a schedule.

Places to Eat & Drink 

Cafe Panorama.  A rooftop cafe with panoramic views of the Medina and Zitouna Mosque. Order an overpriced Tunisian mint and almond tea to enjoy along with the views. The cafe is free to visit and accessible through a souvenir store off one of the souks.

Café Slimania.  A street cafe on an alley in the Medina covered with leafy vines. Come here for an early morning coffee as the city slowly comes to life. 

Cafe Souk.  A cafe hidden inside the garment souk on the northern side of the Medina. Join locals sipping on coffees and chain smoking cigarettes.  

Beignets de la Médina.  A take away kitchen in the Medina specializing in fried Tunisian street food dishes like fricassee & brik. It’s a very popular local lunch spot.

Chez Bilel.  A hole in the wall Tunisian restaurant in the Medina with flavorful local dishes like Mechoula Salad, Ojja and Kafteji. A combination of stews eaten by hand with fresh pillowy baguettes. 

Restaurant Neptune.  A Tunisian seafood restaurant in Carthage with an outdoor patio on the Mediterranean Sea. Come here for the grilled calamari, sea bass and fresh salads. It’s one of the few places that serves Tunisian beer. 

Dar Zarrouk.  An elevated restaurant in Sidi Bou Said with dining room views of the beautiful Mediterranean Sea. Their bar has an extensive list of Tunisian wines available by the bottle and half bottle. 

Tunisian Cuisine 

Ojja (Tunisian Shakshouka).  A savory tomato stew made with poached eggs, harissa and aromatic vegetables. It can be made vegetarian, with seafood or various meats.

Kafteji.  A mix of fried vegetables like eggplants, zucchinis, tomatoes, bell pepper and potato. It’s usually stuffed inside or eaten with baguette.

Mechouia Salad.  A salsa style Tunisian salad made with grilled vegetables like tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, garlic and onion. It’s garnished with tuna, olives, egg and parsley. 

Brik.  A deep fried bread roll stuffed with tuna, olives, eggs and harissa. It’s a common street food snack. 

Fricassee.  A deep fried crepe stuffed with egg, tuna, potatoes, olives and harissa. It’s a common street food snack. 

Makroudh.  Fried date filled cookies made with semolina flower. They’re covered in a honey glaze and garnished with sesame seeds. 

Lablabi.  A savory and spiced chickpea stew served on top of toasted garlic bread with olives and fresh parsley. 

Chorba.  A spiced vegetable and chickpea noodle soup. 

Rouz Jerbi.  A aromatic rice dish made with chickpeas, carrots spinach and a range of North African spices. 

Where to Stay

The Yellow House in the Medina of Tunis.  We stayed in a large two bedroom apartment on the edge of the Medina. Beyond its golden front doors are rooms decorated in Tunisian antiques, artifacts and paintings of the Medina. We booked on Airbnb.

Getting Around 

On Foot.  The city center and Medina are best explored on foot! The streets, alleys and souks are easily walkable. 

Taxis.  Yellow cabs are readily available and can be hailed off the street. Negotiate fares before hand or ask drivers to use their meter. Fares within the city generally cost between 5-20 Dinar depending on distance. 

Airport Taxi.  Hire a taxi from the taxi line at the airport to get to the Medina. Fares are negotiable, costing between 30-50 Dinar. 

Trains.  Local and regional trains are the best way to explore nearby towns and distant cities. 

• Gare de Tunis.  The city’s main train station and regional transportation hub. Come here to book tickets to cities further south like Sousse. Check train schedules and book tickets in person a day ahead. Trains are often delayed by over an hour. 

• Tunis Gare Marine.  A local train station with a train line operating between Tunis, Carthage and Sidi Bou Said. Tickets can be purchased the day of. 

Language & Phrases 

Arabic and French are commonly spoken throughout Tunisia. Some locals also speak English, Spanish and Italian. Download offline languages with Google Translate to help communicate. 

English to Arabic: 

• Hello = Salem  

• Goodbye = Ma'a Salama

• Thank you = Shukran

• You’re Welcome = Marhaba

English to French: 

• Hello = Bonjour (daytime) Bonsoir (nighttime) 

• Goodbye = Au Revoir

• Thank you = Merci 

• You’re Welcome = De Rien 

Location Specifics

Cash vs Card.  A vast majority of purchases are cash only. Credit card is rarely accepted. Withdraw Tunisian Dinar from local ATMs or convert foreign cash at the airport. 

Affordability.  Tunisia is a very budget friendly destination. Accommodations, transportation, dining out and sightseeing are easily inexpensive when traveling on a budget. 

Medina Hours.  The Medina slowly begins waking up around 7am. It’s fully bustling by mid morning and abruptly shuts down around 4pm.

Mosques.  Most mosques are off limits to non Muslims. They can usually be viewed from the outside. 

Staring.  It’s part of the culture for men to stare. You’ll often be stared down as you walk past shops in the souks, sidewalk cafes and by people sitting in cars. It’s best to ignore it and not think anything of it. 

Avoid School Children.  Stay clear of groups of tween and teenage school children. They’ll surround you, shout at you, mock you and ask for money. 

LGBTQ+ Safety & Dangers

Tunisia is not a safe destination for LGBTQ+ travelers. The government and a large percentage of the population have strong anti LGBTQ+ beliefs. Government polices criminalize LGBTQ+ people with punishments including fines, imprisonment, torture and deportation. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Entrapment Schemes.  Some locals that suspect you of being gay will try to entrap you and make you to admit it. Shortly after beginning a conversation, they will abruptly change topics and ask outright, “are you gay?” Irrefutably say no, look offended, end the conversation and leave as quickly as possible. This happened to us multiple times, in different locations including taxis, at markets and on the street.  

Elsewhere in Tunisia 

We spent a week exploring Tunisia, venturing beyond Tunis, Carthage and Sidi Bou Said to stay in the coastal city of Sousse, with day trips to the ancient city of El Jem and the holy city of Kairouan.

For Next Time…

If we ever return to Tunisia, we would love to have a “Star Wars” themed moment. 

Stay in a Troglodyte Home.  A circular dugout cave dwelling like the one lived in by Luke Skywalker’s aunt and uncle. 

Mos Espa Film Set.  Tour the film set used in the prequels where Anakin Skywalker grew up. 

Visit Tatooine.  An actual city in the south of the country that inspired the desert planet. 

Casablanca Travel Guide: Hassan II Mosque, Local Markets & Moroccan Cuisine

Casablanca, Morocco 

Casablanca is a Moroccan metropolis and long romanticized destination. The city is famed for its historic architecture and landmark sights. Palm lined avenues lead past Moorish style and French art deco buildings. Islamic minarets tower across the skyline as the call to prayer echos across neighborhoods. Cafes spill out onto geometric tiled sidewalks while lively markets entice the senses. Casablanca is the perfect entry point to Morocco! Plan to spend at least two days here exploring the city prior to continuing onto destinations elsewhere in the country. 

Neighborhoods 

The Ancient Medina.  Casablanca’s walled medina is the historic center of the seaside city. Winding streets and narrow alleyways lead past graffitied buildings with tall wooden doors. “Wrong” turns often lead to dead ends or into someone’s home. Stray cats roam freely at nearly every corner. It’s a wonderful place to experience local life with very few tourists. It’s significantly smaller than the medinas of Marrakesh and Fez making it especially easy to explore. 

Habous Quarter.  The Habous Quarter is one of the most beautiful areas of Casablanca, offering a blend of historic charm and modern glamour. It’s home to everyone from Moroccan royalty to everyday people. Narrow roads with window cafes, bookstores, street side bakeries and fruit carts meander through older areas. Shops display brass artifacts, Moroccan rugs and traditional clothing beneath arched walkways. Intricately carved stone minarets flank lush parks. Tasteful villas and palm lined avenues comprise modern areas. Flowering bushes and lush hedges overhang sidewalks.  

Mers Sultan.  Mers Sultan is a mixed residential and commercial neighborhood, known for its walkability and central location. Sidewalk cafes and traditional bakeries line the streets, framed by French Colonial and Moorish architecture, making it an inviting area to explore on foot.

La Corniche.  A ritzy seaside neighborhood with city beaches, newly built resorts, luxury restaurants and commercial shopping centers. A cliffside promenade offers views of the Atlantic Ocean, best enjoyed at a restaurant with an afternoon coffee or mint tea. It’s a popular area with tourists but lacks the charm of other areas in the city.

See the Sights 

Hassan II Mosque.  A grand seaside mosque with a towering minaret. It’s the largest mosque in Morocco and one of the largest in the world. The tan stone facade is adorned with Islamic ornamentation like Moorish arches, geometric patterns and blue-green mosaic tiles. The interior prayer hall is decorated with intricate plasterwork, hand carved wooden features and large chandeliers. A vast plaza leads up to the mosque and serves as an outdoor prayer hall. Arched corridors surround the minaret while large titanium doors lead inside to an underground ablution hall with dozens of lotus shaped marble fountains. 

Good to Know.  The plaza in front of the mosque is free to visit after 5pm. Paid tours of the interior happen on the hour several times daily. 

Ligue Arab Park.  An immaculate city park with traditional Moroccan elements like symmetry, tiled fountains and native palms. Rows of towering palm trees line a fountain spanning the length of the park. Shaded walkways and grassy lawns flank its edges. Do as locals do and come here to picnic, read a book or enjoy company with friends. 

El Hank Lighthouse.  A pale yellow lighthouse with an Arabesque crown overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. It’s a scenic spot to watch the waves and popular for sunset. 

Mohammad V Square.  A plaza surrounded by historic and stately government buildings with a large fountain at its center. Wander the square to appreciate the architecture and surrounding neighborhood before sitting down at Al-Mounia, a landmark restaurant serving traditional Moroccan cuisine. Dine in their garden patio or ornate dining room, feasting on couscous and vegetable spreads paired with khobz. 

Old Portuguese Fort.  A small colonial era fort with bronze cannons and stone turrets built along the wall of the medina. It serves as an entry point to the medina and hosts, La Sqala, an atmospheric cafe and garden restaurant. Peach colored walls, blue painted shutters and Moroccan tiled tables accent the space as verdant plants grow throughout. Come here for afternoon tea, traditional baked goods and savory tagines. 

Rick’s Cafe.  Of all the gin joints in the world, this one is likely the most famous. The elegant space is styled after Rick's Café Américain from the 1942 film, Casablanca. Without reservations, we sat at the bar sipping on gin martinis and negronis. Call ahead to make dinner reservations and stay for the live jazz performances. 

Shop the Local Markets

The Great Habous Olive Market.  A historic market in the Habous Quarter dedicated solely to the sale of olives and olive oils. Terracotta trays with colorful mounds of olives are displayed on tables throughout the plaza. The tangy smell of brine wafts through the air as welcoming vendors offer free samples. We purchased a half kilo of mixed olives spiced with harissa and a bottle of the purest tasting olive oil. 

Central Marketplace.  A seafood marketplace with icy displays of freshly caught Atlantic seafood. Come here to enjoy a seafood meal prepared at one of the many no frills restaurants. Hosts playfully compete for customers, offering free sides dishes. We dined at Chez Lachen, ordering the pan fries sardines and freshly shucked oysters paired with khobz, za’alook, lentils, tomato salad and harissa. 

The Medina Market.  A market within the Medina lined with shops and vendors selling a range of goods including clothing, shoes, accessories, jewelry, textiles, oils, teas and spices. It caters heavily to locals looking for a deal. Enter the market through, Baba el Kebir, an arched sandstone gate within the Medina wall.

Chleuh Market.  A local morning market along Rue Chleuh in the Ancient Medina. Vendors display carts and wooden boxes with vegetables, fruits and freshly caught fish. The scent of fresh mint wafts from piles of herbs. Bakers deliver baskets of aromatic breads. Corner stores sell nuts, trays of dates and stacked cartons of eggs. Butchers behead chickens on the spot for paying customers. 

Moroccan Cuisine 

Tagine.  A mixture of vegetables, meats, dried fruits and spices stewed together in a conical clay dish. It’s a staple dishes of Moroccan cuisine.

Couscous.  A steamed grain covered in a savory broth and garnished with vegetables and meats.

Harira.  A traditional Moroccan soup made from tomatoes, chickpeas, fresh herb and aromatic spices.

Khobs Bread.  A light and airy flatbread served with every meal. It’s fresh baked daily and can be bought from for 1 DH from local bakeries. 

Msemmen.  A flaky and layered pan fried flat bread often eaten at breakfast with honey. It’s commonly cooked by street vendors on flat top griddles. 

Sfenj (Moroccan Donuts).  Yeasty rings of fried dough heavily coated in plain sugar. They’re a common street food snack and usually paired with a tiny cup of coffee. 

Moroccan Pastry.  Small pastries made from filo dough, peanuts, honey, orange blossom water and spices. They common to enjoy with mint tea. 

Mint Tea.  Hot tea made with fresh mint leaves and sugar cubes. It’s served as a common welcome drink.

Fresh Squeed Juice.  Juices are commonly drank across Morocco. Try fresh squeed orange, pomegranate or sugar cane from a street side juice cart. 

Moroccan Orange Soda.  Orange is one of the most popular flavors in Morocco. Try a Moroccan orange soda like Orangina or Hawai.

Arabic Words & Phrases 

Knowing a few worlds and phases in Arabic goes a long way in Moroccan when interacting with locals. Some of the most common and easy to remember are: 

• Hello = Salama

• Goodbye = Beslama

• Thank you = Shukran

• You’re welcome = Marhaba 

Location Specifics 

When to Visit.  September is the best month of the year to visit Morocco. It’s just before peak travel season with hot to moderate temperatures. Temperatures are typically cooler near the Atlantic coast in Casablanca. 

Language.  Arabic, French and English are commonly spoken by many people, seen on signage and menus. 

Cash vs Card.  Cash is preferred and often only accepted method of payment at many businesses. Confirm before ordering at restaurants or agreeing to services.

Safety.  Casablanca a generally safe destination to visit. Be aware of your surrounding and keep hold of personal belonging to avoid pick pocketing. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption or cooking with in Morocco. Only use bottled water. 

Alcohol.  The sale of alcohol is heavily controlled throughout the country. Only some restaurants will serve cocktails, beer and wine. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Moroccan laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Getting Around 

Airport Taxi.  There is a taxi stand past customs at the airport with regulated prices for taxis to Casablanca and to cities across the country. Expect to pay around $30 USD from the airport to the city. 

Petit Taxi.  Small red taxis present throughout the city. They’re safe, affordable and quick when getting around. Hail one off the street and negotiate price before getting in. Fares are usually under 100.

On Foot.  The city is easily walkable and generally safe, making it a fun way to get around and explore.

Elsewhere in Morocco

We spent a little over three weeks traveling across Morocco, experiencing so much of the country’s culture, cuisine and history. Drive across the Atlas Mountains to the Sahara Desert, making stops at palm oases and crumbing Kasbahs on a Morocco Road Trip. Get lost in the chaotic alleyways, spice markets and souks of Marrakesh. Explore the ancient medina and historic Islamic sights of Fes. Wander the azure streets and hillside of Chefchaouen.

Morocco Road Trip Guide: Sahara Desert, Kasbahs & Berber Culture

From The Atlas Mountains to The Sahara Desert

Morocco is a mesmerizing country with scenic landscapes, enchanting kasbahs and rich cultural influences. We spent a week roadtripping between the historic medinas of Marrakesh and Fez. The journey led us through the Atlas Mountains to desert towns, crumbling ksars, palm covered oases, steep gorges, sprawling sand dunes and Berber camps of the Sahara Desert. 

Ait Ben Haddou 

Ait Ben Haddou is a desert town famed for its ancient ksar, towering kasbahs and Berber culture. 

The Ancient Ksar.  Adobe buildings and four towered kasbahs rise from the hillside of the ancient ksar. Their sand hued facades blend in with the desert landscape. Berber patterns and geometric designs decorate their outer walls. Narrow streets and passageways meander past cafes with rooftop terraces and vendors selling Berber goods.

Pro Tip.  Walk through the empty streets of the ksar after the sun rises.

The Modern Village.  A contemporary expansion of the ancient ksar. Its sand hued buildings are home to local residents, tourist hotels, Moroccan restaurants and artisan. Rooftop terraces overlook the ancient ksar offering panoramic views of its grandeur and the surrounding landscape. 

Tour The Kasbahs.  Ait Ben Haddou’s kasbahs are worth visiting to experience local life and traditions. Their owners typically charge a small fee to enter.

• The Museum Kasbah.  A large kasbah with several connected rooms and a central staircase leading to the upper floors and the roof. Traditional tools, ceramics and textiles are displayed on interior walls. The roof offers views of the ancient ksar, its neighboring kasbahs and adobe houses. 

• The Widow’s Kasbah.  A crumbling kasbah still inhabited by an older woman. She toured us through the ground floor, showing us her kitchen, bedroom and living area where she weaves. She let us explore the abandoned upper floor.

• Maison de l'Oralité.  A large kasbah converted into a museum and cultural center dedicated to Berber arts, language and traditions. Its exhibits feature traditional musical instruments, weaving tools and looms, historic photos and stories of local folklore. The kasbah is one of the best preserved and still half occupied by a local family.Visit its rooftop for views of the ksar and surrounding landscape. 

Ksar vs Kasbah.  Two terms used to describe the architecture of desert villages like Ait Ben Haddou. 

• Ksar refers to the walled city or fortified village made up of one or multiple kasbahs and surrounding houses.

• Kasbah is a wealthy family’s house, often built within a ksar. They’re larger than surrounding houses and defined by their four cornered towers.

Berber Souks.  Ait Ben Haddou was built along an ancient Berber caravan route. Berber craft and culture continues to prosper in souks of the ancient ksar. The narrow alleyways are lined with vendors displaying traditional goods and antiques. Shops sell metal jewelry, patterned rugs, colorful scarves, desert knives, brass lamps, clay pottery, carved wooden locks and paintings. 

Good to Know.  Accept mint tea if offered by a shopkeeper, it’s Berber hospitality. Sit down and chat for a few minutes. Leave when ready and don’t feel pressured to buy anything. 

Pro Tip.  Ait Ben Haddou is a good place to buy Moroccan and Berber made items. Vendors are less aggressive than in larger cities and prices are often reasonable.

The Ounila River.  A river separating The Ancient Ksar and Modern Village. Walk across its foot bridge or the stepping stones to transit in-between. 

• Foot Bridge.  A pedestrian bridge leading directly between the modern village and ancient ksar. It’s free to cross and flanked by local restaurants and vendors. 

• Stepping Stones.  During the dry season, stepping stones and sand bags create makeshift paths across the muddy river. This route offers scenic views of the ksar and its kasbahs.

• Pro Tip.  Follow the stepping stones across the river and walk downstream to the olive groves. A trail passes through them leading to the ksar’s eastern gate. This route avoids paying to enter or exit through the kasbahs. 

Ait Ben Haddou Viewpoints.  The ancient ksar is surrounded by different photogenic viewpoints from hilltop lookouts, rooftop terraces and street scenes. 

• Ksar d'Aït Ben Haddou Sunset Point.  A viewpoint on the narrow road near the top of the ksar. It offers panoramic views of the city and desert landscape. It’s especially popular at sunset but good to visit at any time of day. 

• Viewpoint Ait Ben Haddou.  A hilltop viewpoint with panoramic views of the ancient ksar and its adobe buildings. Visit at sunrise to see the sand hued city illuminated in an orange glow. Revisit during the mid morning to admire all of its intricate designs and details in full daylight.

• Street Viewpoint for Aït Benhaddou.  A sandstone roadway in the modern village leading towards the Ounila River and ancient ksar.  

• La Table de la Kasbah Ait Ben Haddou.  A rooftop cafe in the ancient ksar with views of its adobe kasbahs and the desert landscape. The stylish terrace is decorated in Moroccan poofs, rugs and pillows. Visit during golden hour or sunset to enjoy a pot of mint tea with Moroccan pastries.

Places to Eat, Drink & Stay 

• La Terrazza.  A restaurant with Moroccan style pizzas topped with local ingredients like olives, eggplant, tomato and zucchini. It’s one of the few restaurants that offers alcoholic drinks. 

• Tawesna Salon de Thé.  A bakery and tea house in the ancient ksar next to the bridge. Come here to enjoy a pot of mint tea with a spread of sweet and buttery Moroccan cookies.

• La Fibule Dor Ait Ben Haddou.  An adobe style hotel in the modern village. Its rooms are decorated with Moroccan lamps, Berber textiles and handmade artwork. Its rooftop and many rooms boast panoramic views of the ancient ksar. Our stay included a Moroccan breakfast with a spread of cheeses, jams, dates, olives, eggs and bread. We booked on Airbnb.

Tips for Visiting Ait Ben Haddou:

• Stay Overnight.  Plan to stay at least one night in Ait Ben Haddou to get the most out of visiting the ancient ksar. 

• Visit Solo.  Avoid group tours and visit in your own. You’ll have more time to explore freely. 

• Time of Day.  Visit before 8:30am to avoid crowds.

• Cash vs Credit. Carry cash and small coins for most payments. Credit card is not commonly accepted. 

• Drink Water.  Stay hydrated and carry water when walking around, especially during the afternoon heat. 

• Getting Here.  Ait Ben Haddou is reachable from Marrakesch by car. The scenic drive leads 3 hours through the foot hills of the Altas Mountains. 

Ouarzazate

Ouarzazate is a desert city renowned for its movie studios and historic kasbahs. It’s often referred to as “The Moroccan Hollywood” and “The Gateway to the Desert.”

Atlas Studios.  A vast film studio and one of Ouarzazate’s most famous with sets dating back to the 1960s. It’s particularly eye catching for its large scale Egyptian sets comprised of colorful temples, tombs and statues. Sets blur into one another, transitioning between Egyptian, Roman, medieval and desert towns. Vehicles like gladiator chariots, military trucks, replica sports cars, viking ships and aircraft are displayed throughout. Scenes from the Mummy, Gladiator and James Bond have all been filmed here. Tickets include guided tours of the sets with movie references, photo opps and free time to explore at your own pace afterwards.

Taourirt Kasbah.  A large and once prosperous kasbah in the center of Ouarzazate. It’s comprised of orange hued adobe buildings embossed with Berber patterns and geometric shapes. Their maze-like interiors are comprised of staircases and passageways that lead between disparate rooms, multiple levels and rooftop terraces. Repairs have been ongoing since the 2023 earthquake. Workers mix piles of mud, straw and water to create adobe bricks and plaster. 

Getting Here.  Ouarzazate is reachable from Ait Ben Haddou by car. It takes less than 1 hour to reach if driving. 

Kasbah Amridil

Kasbah Amridil is one of the largest and best preserved kasbahs in Morocco. Its sprawling structure is situated in the middle of the Skouras Palmerie, a palm covered oasis home to dozens of historic kasbahs and crumbling adobe ruins. The kasbah’s sand colored facade and adobe towers are decorated in intricate Berber patterns. It’s divided into three sections including two museums and a restaurant. 

L’Entree Officelle.  One of two museum entrances to Kasbah Amridil. Its historic interiors and rooms are restored with beige plastered walls and diamond tiled floors. A light-well illuminates its center while a staircase leads to the its floors, rooftop terrace and towers. The upper courtyard features Arab and Moorish style arches. It overlooks the palm covered oasis, neighboring kasbahs and crumbling ruins.

Entree Principale.  The second museum entrance to Kasbah Amridil. It’s the most historic and originally maintained section. It features adobe walls, straw and mud floors, kitchens with clay ovens and displays with antique tools. Stairs lead from an open air courtyard to the upper floors and rooms. Rooftop terraces offer views of the kasbah towers and oasis. 

Kasbah Amridil Restaurant.  The third section of the kasbah is a restaurant. Its second floor terrace has the best views of the entire kasbah and Skouras Palmerie. Visit here last for a light meal and afternoon mint tea.

Tips for Visiting Kasbah Amridil 

• Tickets.  Tickets cost 40 DH per person for each L’Entree Officelle and Entree Principale. If you only have time to visit one section of the Kasbah, visit the Entree Principale.

• Getting Here.  The Skouras Palmerie and Kasbah Amridil are reachable from Ouarzazate by car. It takes about 1-1/2 hours to reach if driving. 

Todra Gorge 

The Todra Gorge is a massive river canyon in the High Atlas Mountains with steep walls, a natural spring and a palm oasis. Its orange and brown rock walls rise hundreds of feet above the river bed. A natural spring bubbles from the ground supplying the river and oasis with a continual supply of fresh water.

Hiking and Rock Climbing.  A hiking trail begins at the parking lot past the narrowest section of the gorge. It loops 13km across the desert landscape. We only hiked 1km due to lack of time. The walls of the gorge are popular with experienced rock climbers.

La Maison d’Hotes Riad Todra.  A small hotel at the mouth of the Todra Gorge. Its rooms are basic but suitable for a single night stay. It has a restaurant with Moroccan lounges overlooking a small oasis. The host prepared a vegetable tagine for dinner and spread for breakfast. We booked on Airbnb. 

Palmeraie de Tinghir.  A vast oasis stretching from the mouth of the Todra Gorge to the city of Tinghir. Groves of fig, olive, date and pomegranates trees grow in the verdant valley. Crumbling ruins of historic kasbahs line its rugged edges. Roadside lookouts offer panoramic views of surrounding landscape.

• Mirador de Palmeraie.  A roadside viewpoint of the palm covered oasis, its abandoned adobe kasbahs and the mountainside. Use this Map Pin for the location. 

• Oasis de Toudgha Vue Panoramique.  A lookout point closer to town with sweeping views of the oasis, its farmland and distant mountains. Use this Map Pin for the location. 

Tips for Visiting The Todra Gorge:

• Visit Early.  Arrive in the early morning, just after sunset to see the gorge in its most natural state without any vendors or tour buses. 

• Beware of Dogs.  Packs of stray dogs can be aggressive. Even if unprovoked, they try to bite at people’s ankles. Raise your hand in a fist and shout at them if they get too close.

• Getting Here.  The Todra Gorge is reachable after driving 3 hours from the Skouras Palmerie.

Merzouga Desert 

The Merzouga Desert is an expansive area with towering orange dunes and desert camps on the edge of the Sahara. It’s a popular place for camel trekking, dune exploration and stargazing.

Sahara Wellness Camp

The Sahara Wellness Camp is a Berber style desert camp nestled between sand dunes on the edge of the Merzouga Desert. It offers traditional accommodations, desert excursions and Moroccan meals. Reserve on Booking. 

Dune Hikes.  Hiking the dunes is one of the best ways to experience the Merzouga Desert. Meander along their sandy crests, steep slopes and shifting terrain. The rippled sand is often covered in signs of life. Look for animal prints from migratory birds, tiny mice and desert foxes. Patches of green grasses flourish from otherwise barren desert after seasonal rains.

Pro Tip.  Plan to hike the dunes in the early morning or late afternoon. Bring enough water to stay hydrated. For safety, let the camp know where you’ll be hiking and when you expect to return. 

Watch the Sunset.  Sunset in the desert is a magical time of day. The sun casts long shadows across the dunes as it slips below their crests. It makes way to the starry night sky and cool evenings. We watched from atop a small dune while sipping on glasses of Moroccan wine. 

Stargazing.  The Merzouga Desert is a dark sky area with stunning views of the starry night sky. We saw meteors streak across the heavens, watched satellites orbit overhead, spotted planets, stars and constellations. Download Sky Tonight, a free star spotting app utilizing augmented reality. 

Amazigh Music.  On most nights, the camp staff will light a bonfire and perform traditional Amazigh music using drums and tambourines. The beat is very rhythmic, creating a relaxing atmosphere for the end of the night.

Sunrise Camel Trekking.  Berber men lead caravans of camels and campers into the dunes to watch the sunrise. We rode a pair to a scenic point in the desert. The camels steadily paced across the dunes with us on their humped backs. The desert landscape glowed as the warm sun rose across the orange sand. 

Good to Know.  Berber camels are very well treated, given time to rest, eat and drink between walks. 

Merzouga Tour.  The camp offers an experience to learn about the local culture, history and nomadic peoples of Merzouga Desert. We started the morning by sipping on mint tea with a Berber family. We listened to the rhythmic drums and chants of a Gnawa musical performance. Our guide brought us to an abandoned mining town to hike and shop for Paleozoic era fossils found in the area. We visited a community farm and harvested fresh dates. The tour ended with an adventurous dune ride back to camp. 

Tips for Visiting The Merzouga Desert:

• Getting Here.  The Merzouga Desert is reachable from the Todra Gorge by car. It takes between 3-4 hours to reach if driving. The camp is reachable by SUV or camel trekking across the dunes. 

• Camp Fees.  Staying at the camp is very inexpensive. Optional activities, meals and transportation cost extra however prices can be negotiated.

• Desert Activities.  Once at the camp, what you make of the experience is entirely up to you. Simply relax, explore on your own or book paid activities. For the full experience, plan to stay more than one night.

• Camp Meals.  The meals are one of the highlights the desert camp. The chef prepares individually made meals for each guest. We enjoyed Berber omelettes, vegetable tagines and Moroccan spreads. 

• Daytime Heat.The interiors of the tents get extremely hot during the day. It’s best to relax in the shaded open air tents and enjoy the peacefulness of the desert. 

• Attire.  Wear flowy and light colored clothes during the day. Bring sunglasses. Dress in layers during the cool evenings. Check the forecast ahead of time. 

Moroccan & Berber Cuisine 

Berber Omelette.  An omelette cooked in a tagine with olive oil, onions and spices. It’s common in the Berber regions of Morocco like the desert and mountains. 

Tagine.  A mixture of vegetables, meats, dried fruits and spices stewed together in a conical clay dish. It’s a staple dishes of Moroccan cuisine.

Couscous.  A steamed grain covered in a savory broth and garnished with vegetables and meats.

Khobs Bread.  A light and airy flatbread served with every meal. It’s fresh baked daily and can be bought from for 1 DH from local bakeries. 

Mint Tea.  Hot tea made with fresh mint leaves and sugar cubes. It’s served as a common welcome drink.

Orange Drinks.  Orange is one of the most popular flavors in Morocco. Fresh squeezed orange juice and sodas are commonly drank. Try Orangina or Hawai.

Dates.  A dried fruit from the date palm tree. They come in dozens of variety and can be found across Morocco. They’re eat at breakfast or as snacks. Try them stuffed with a walnut. 

Driving in Morocco 

Driving in Morocco comes with benefits and challenges. While we enjoyed our roadtrip we have some pros, cons and lessons learned we wish we knew beforehand. 

• Pros.  The roads are well maintained, gas stations are frequent, the landscape is beautiful and you have freedom of being on your own schedule.

• Cons.Fake speed traps, police corruption and reckless drivers make driving in Morocco stressful and difficult. 

• Where to Rent.  We rented from Sixt at the Marrakech airport and returned it at the Fez airport a week later. 

Rest Stops.  Half the joy of a taking a roadtrip is making unexpected stops when something catches your eye. We stopped several times throughout our journey to check something out including remote roadside cafes, camel crossings, panoramic viewpoints, Berber craft stands and fossil and meteorite shops. 

Corrupt Speed Traps

Corrupt speed traps are common across Morocco. If driving, you’re all but guaranteed to be fined by police officers. Patrols of the Royal Moroccan Gendarmerie will signal you to pull over, confiscate your license and passport, then ask you to pay a cash fine for any number of reasons.

Examples of Traps: 

• Reduced Speed Signs.  Police set up a series of rapidly descending speed limit signs spaced mere meters apart hoping to entrap drivers.

• Hidden Stop Signs.  Police place hidden stop signs directly behind a high speed limit signs to entrap drivers. 

• Painted Speed Signs.  Police paint over posted speed limit signs to obscure the actual speed. 

How to React: 

• Option 1.  Pay the cash “fine.” They typically request 300-400 Dirham. They will not provide a ticket or receipt.

• Option 2.  Respectfully dispute the “fine.” Push back and ask for evidence as well as a formal written ticket. If legitimate, this needs to be paid in cash on the spot or at a police station.

• Option 3.  Respectfully dispute the “fine.” Push back and let the police know you did not violate the traffic laws. Mentioned that you’ve already been pulled over, paid a fine and reported the past incident to your embassy. Corrupt police will back down in fear of being reported at the mention of diplomatic support.

Document Evidence.  When approaching a speed trap, immediately slow down to 20km and have a passenger record the speedometer and posted signs. This can be used as proof to dispute the “traffic violation.” Document evidence of the encounter including the time, location, officer names and badge numbers. Be careful not to directly photograph or record the police. This is considered “illegal journalism” in Morocco. 

Arabic Words & Phrases 

Knowing a few worlds and phases in Arabic goes a long way in Moroccan when interacting with locals. Some of the most common and easy to remember are: 

• Hello = Salama

• Goodbye = Beslama

• Thank you = Shukran

• You’re welcome = Marhaba 

Location Specifics 

When to Visit.  September is the best month of the year to visit Morocco. It’s just before peak travel season with hot to moderate temperatures. 

Language.  Arabic, French and English are commonly spoken by many people, seen on signage and menus. 

Cash vs Card.  Cash is preferred and often only accepted method of payment at many businesses. Confirm before ordering at restaurants or agreeing to services.

Safety.  Morocco is a generally safe destination to visit. Be aware of your surrounding and keep hold of personal belonging to avoid pick pocketing. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption or cooking with in Morocco. Only use bottled water. 

Alcohol.  The sale of alcohol is heavily controlled throughout the country. Only some restaurants will serve cocktails, beer and wine.

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Moroccan laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Elsewhere in Morocco

We spent a little over three weeks traveling across Morocco, experiencing so much of the country’s culture, cuisine and history. Get lost in the chaotic alleyways, spice markets and souks of Marrakesh. Explore the ancient medina and historic Islamic sights of Fes. Wander the azure streets and hillside of Chefchaouen. Enjoy the coastal atmosphere and influences of in Casablanca.

For Next Time…

The Atlas Mountains and desert landscape of Morocco is a beautiful place, especially with extra time.

Stay in Ouarzazate.  We recommend spending at least one night here to experience the town, its souks and movie studios in depth.

Merzouga Lake.  A seasonal lake formed during the Merzouga Desert’s August rains. It’s a popular place to spot migratory flamingos. 

Ozoud Waterfalls.  A series of cascading waterfalls in the High Atlas Mountains. Trails leads up the falls to natural swimming pools. 

Chefchaouen Travel Guide: The Blue City, Medina & Local Culture

Chefchaouen, The Blue City

Chefchaouen, known as The Blue City, is famed for its azure and sky blue painted medina. Historic mosques and a medieval kasbah tower above Moorish plazas. Water flows from vividly tiled fountains. Moroccan artisans display handmade crafts along narrow streets. Vendors sell fresh fruit juices to thirsty customers. Stray cats and kittens roam everywhere. Trails lead up rugged hillsides with panoramic views.  

The Historic Medina 

Chefchaouen’s historic medina is the oldest section of the city with the highest concentration of blue painted buildings. Its labyrinth of walkways passes beneath blue colored archways and canopies of leafy grape vines. Cobblestone alleys meander past quiet residences and through lively souks. Picturesque staircases dead end at cobalt hued doors. The medina is truly a photographer’s dream. 

Callejon El Asri.  One of the most vibrantly blue colored streets in the medina. Picturesque staircases with and narrow alleyways branch off on both sides as it meanders through the town. 

Rue Ibn Asskar.  A blue street weaving through the center of the medina along a series staircases, of arched walkways, decorated staircases, tiled fountains and artisan vendors. 

Rue Imman Chadili.  A souk street with blue painted walls covered in colorful decor, baskets, clothes, ceramics and woven goods.

See the Sights 

Plaza Uta el Hamman.  A cobblestone plaza lies at the heart of the medina, framed by tree covered buildings and historic landmarks. Serving as the main hub for sightseeing, dining, and shopping, it features a Moorish fountain at its center, with the Grand Mosque and the Kasbah flanking one side. Restaurants, cafes, and shops line its perimeter, while narrow streets and walkways branch out in all directions.

The Kasbah.  A medieval fortress stands at the center of the medina. It’s defined by sand colored adobe walls, battlement towers, former prison and lush courtyard garden filled with palms, cacti, and diverse plant life. One of its towers houses a museum showcasing traditional Moroccan plaster, tile, and woodwork. The upper levels of another provide sweeping views of the blue city and forested hillside.

Place El Haouta.  A stone paved plaza in the medina centered on a small yet ornate Moorish style fountain. It’s surrounded by blue and white painted buildings topped with terracotta roofs. Intimate cafes and shops line is perimeter offering scenic views of the rugged mountainside. 

Plaza Mohammed V.  Just outside the medina, a circular plaza provides a tranquil place to rest and views of historic buildings. It features brick and Spanish-tiled fountains and benches. Lush flower beds and verdant trees grow amid grassy lawns. Visitors can walk beneath grapevine covered pergolas and sculpted bushes.

Lavadero de la Ciudad.  A freshwater stream once used for washing laundry now serves as a lively gathering place lined with juice bars and cafes. Oranges, pomegranates and melons float in canals of cool water as vendors hand press fresh juices. Locals relax along the stream, enjoying refreshments before or after hiking to the Bouzafer Mosque. Juices typically cost 15–20 DH.

Bouzafer Mosque.  A small hilltop mosque with panoramic views of the blue city, surrounding mountains and sunset. It’s a scenic 15 minute walk from the Lavadero de la Ciudad. Along the route, vendors often sell cookies to passersby. 

Artisan Alleys.  The blue painted alleys of Chefchaouen are home to artisan vendors selling Moroccan textiles and rugs, handmade paintings, brass artifacts, jewelry, ceramics, baskets, amlou paste, teas, spices and souvenirs.Artisans are generally friendly but can seem aggressive knowing that most visitors are only in Chefchaouen for a short period of time. Like in all souks, haggling is encouraged. 

Places to Eat & Drink 

El Cielo Restaurant.  A semi secluded restaurant located in a garden of the Medina next to a historic mosque. Their menu features Mediterranean and Moroccan spreads, tagines, kebabs and pitas. For dessert, try the Jawhara, a flaky pastry lawyered between tiers of custard. Reserve a spot in the garden ahead of time. 

Pain Chaouen.  A small bakery with a large range of French and Moroccan patisserie. Come here for the flaky croissants, butter cookies and glazed donuts. 

Break Coffee.  A takeaway cafe with all the usual types of coffees. It’s open early and stays open late for those in need of a caffeine fix. 

Where to Stay

Hotel Chams.  A small hotel located in the center of the medina near the Plaza Uta el Hamman. Each floor has multiple sized rooms and a shared bathroom. A rooftop terrace offers panoramic views of the city and mountainside. Reserve on Booking. 

Getting to Chefchaouen

Chefchaouen is reachable from Fes by shuttle. Shared shuttles transfer passengers between both cities multiple times daily. The route takes about 4 hours one way. We booked with 3T Travel on Get Your Guide. 

Location Specifics

Photo Fees.  Many homeowners charge a small fee ranging from 10-20 DH for a photo of their door, house, alleyway, etc. Carry small bills and coins for payments. 

How Long to Visit.  Chefchaouen can be explored in a half day but it’s best to stay for at least one night to watch the sunset and explore in the early morning.

Early Mornings.  Plan to explore the Medina in the early morning to see its blue painted streets and staircases before vendors display their goods. Much like Fes, most shops don’t begin setting up until 10am. 

Blue Stains.  Be careful when leaning against or sitting on blue painted surfaces. The pigment can rub off and stain light clothes. 

Illegal Drugs.  Drug dealers commonly try to sell hashish and cannabis to tourists. They may also invite you to visit their farm. Simply tell them no thank you if not interested and they’ll leave you alone. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Moroccan laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Elsewhere in Morocco

We spent a little over three weeks traveling across Morocco, experiencing so much of the country’s culture, cuisine and history. Drive across the Atlas Mountains to the Sahara Desert, making stops at palm oases and crumbing Kasbahs on a Morocco Road Trip. Get lost in the chaotic alleyways, spice markets and souks of Marrakesh. Explore the ancient medina and historic Islamic sights of Fes. Enjoy the coastal atmosphere and influences of in Casablanca.

For Next Time…

Morocco is a beautiful destination with historic cities, scenic landscapes and cultural allure. We have a shortlist of places to visit when we return. 

Meknes.  An ancient city at the heart of Morocco’s wine producing region. Its nearby vineyards offer tours, tastings and wine pairings. 

Volubilis.  An ancient Roman city with well preserved ruins and mosaics from the former empire. 

Essaouira.  A port city on the Atlantic with a picturesque medina, coastal ramparts and fresh seafood restaurants.

Fes Travel Guide: Medina, Tanneries & Islamic History

Fes, Morocco

Fes is an ancient city and the cultural heart of Morocco. Centuries of craft and tradition continue in the souks as artisans shape metal, dye leather, weave carpets and haggle with curious customers. Picturesque mosques, soaring minarets and madrassas rise above maze-like alleyways that weave through the sprawling medina. Historical museums recount its place in Moroccan history while the royal palace emphasizes its continued influence. Luxurious riads offer a calming retreat from the bustle of the city that continues to attract worldly travelers. 

Fes el Bali (The Old Medina) 

Fes el Bali is the historic medina at the heart of Fes. It’s a living labyrinth of narrow alleys and hilly paths that overwhelm the senses. Quiet mornings and empty streets transition into bustling souks teeming with artisan goods. Throngs of people press through as vespas part crowds and stray cats slip through shadows. The call to prayer echoes from towering minarets. Islamic monuments, tiled fountains and medieval architecture layer the medina in history and intricate patterns. Wooden beams stretch between structures as if holding one another upright. Centuries-old doors open into hidden riads while dark passageways lead through ancient buildings like subterranean tunnels. The best way to truly experience the medina is to get lost within it. 

Fes El-Jedid.  Established in the 17th century around the royal palace and gardens, the “new medina” is a largely residential area of Fez. It combines narrow alleyways with wider commercial streets, local souks and scattered artisan shops. It offers a quieter glimpse into daily life and Moroccan traditions.

Souks & Markets

Souks, traditional Moroccan markets, weave through the medina in bustling alleyways of shops and vendors. They’re a wonderful place to experience Moroccan culture! They brim with vibrant colors, fragrant scents and lively sounds of haggling customers. Stalls overflow with aromatic goods like spices, teas and perfumes while others showcase artisan crafts like Berber carpets, brass lamps and leather goods. 

Rue Talaa Kebira.  A lengthy souk street meandering through the center of the old medina. Beginning near the Al Attarine Madrasa, it climbs uphill toward Bab Boujloud. The souk’s rich tapestry of artisans and vendors display Moroccan home decor such as rugs, poufs and brass lanterns. Merchants and customers haggle over leather goods, scarves and jewelry. Spice shops, small cafes and unassuming eateries add local flavors to the mix. A farmers market provides locals with fresh produce, meats and grains. Narrow alleyways  continually branch off, leading deeper into the medina. Visit the souk street of Rue Talaa Sghira for a similar experience. 

Souk Seffarine.  A metalworking souk centered around a small plaza in the old medina. The rhythm of sharp clangs echo throughout the air as artisans hammer copper disks into dishes to cook Moroccan pastilla. Metalworkers labor in the open plaza and inside cluttered studios while shopkeepers display copper tagines, teapots, brass lamps, antiques and a variety of goods. 

Souk Nejjarine.  A small woodworking souk in the plaza outside of the Nejjarine Museum. Artisans chisel away at blocks of wood, whittle figurines and spin lathes to create decorative boxes, berber locks and ornate reliefs. 

See the Sights

Nejjarine Museum.  A museum showcasing Morocco’s wooden craftsmanship. Housed in a restored wooden building, three floors of galleries focus on a different aspects of woodworking. Exhibits display Moroccan wood species, woodworking tools, home decor, musical instruments and architectural elements. 

Nejjarine Museum Rooftop.  The rooftop of the Nejjarine Museumoffers panoramic views of the medina while woodworking artisans display their craft in the plaza below. There is a small cafe up here serving coffees and Moroccan teas.

Tanneries de Fes.  A historic tannery that offers a vivid glimpse into traditional Moroccan leather making. A series of layered vats filled with chemical solutions and dyes sprawls across the tannery. The air is pungent but manageable. Stacks of cow, goat, camel and sheep skins wait to be processed. Wooden water wheels tumble and wash hides as workers soften them with wooden mallets and dry treated pieces on covered racks. The process can be observed from surrounding rooftops. Finished leather goods are sold in nearby shops and souks. 

Getting Here.  Walk through a passageway on the left side of the Nejjarine Museum. There is a leather goods shop with rooftop views of the tanneries. They allow free access in exchange for perusing their products. 

Al Attarine Madrasa.  A remarkably ornate 14th century university located in the old medina. At its heart lies an open air courtyard layered with intricately styled plasterwork, finely carved wooden features and multi colored geometric tiles. Floors of private study rooms surround it, creating a space that blends Islamic scholarship and craftsmanship.

Pro Tip.  Arrive at 10am when it opens before large tour groups arrive. 

Al Quaraouiyine.  A massive mosque and madrasa home to the world’s oldest university, founded in 859 CE. Non Muslims can admire its exquisite courtyard through the arched wooden doors. The mosque’s distinctive green tiled roof and minaret are visible from the nearby Al Attarine Madrasa.

Tomb of Moulay Idriss.  An ornate 8th century tomb, dedicated to the founder of Fes. Its interior is reserved for Muslims while the exterior can be viewed by all. Its facade is decorated with elaborate plasterwork, intricately arranged tiles and gold painted designs. Vendors line the street surrounding it, offering sand brewed spice coffee and sweet nougats.

Dar Batha Museum.  Housed in a former royal palace, this historical museum showcases artifacts distinct to Moroccan craftsmanship, scientific advancements and cultural identity. Exhibits include early Quranic calligraphy, architectural elements from Fes’ first mosques and the art of Zellige tilework. Other galleries feature  objects like woven rugs, textiles, pottery, jewelry and weaponry, highlight sciences like geometry, astronomy and horology and the role of water and light in designing tiled fountains and intricate brass lamps. 

Jnan Sbil.  A city park located between the new and old medinas. Its shaded walkways, sputtering fountains and alley of towering palm trees attract locals and lost tourists looking for a quiet escape from the chaos of the souks.

Fes Ancient Wall.  The medina of Fes is surrounded by an ancient stone wall with several ornately tiled and arched gates. Outer walls and fortresses provided additional layers of protection during the medieval period.

• Bab Boujeloud.  A beautifully tiled arched gate marking a main entrance to the old medina. Its exterior side is clad in ornate blue tiles and the interior in green. The lively street beyond is lined with shops, restaurants, and tea houses, opening onto a large plaza outside.

• Borj Nord Lookout Point.  A defensive fortress built beyond the medina’s walls. It houses an arms museum displaying historic weapons and armor. Its elevated position, along with nearby cliffside lookouts, offer expansive views over the city and surrounding countryside.

Join a Weaving Workshop

The Anou Cooperative.  A cooperative uniting female weavers from communities across Morocco. It allows them to sell their work directly rather than through souk wholesalers, supporting their livelihoods and preserving traditional craft. The studio offers artisan led workshops and weaving residencies, including a half day workshop where we learned to hand knot our own miniature rugs. A small showroom displays unique rugs, hand dyed yarns and other woven items. Custom items can be ordered through their Online Shop.

Places to Eat & Drink 

Restaurant Dar Khabya Original.  Hidden within the edge of the souks, a small and unassuming restaurant with some of the tastiest Moroccan cuisine, including vegetarian options like pastilla, tagine and fruit juices. Prices are inexpensive and portions are generous. 

Cafe Clock.  An alleyway coffee shop with a terrace overlooking a neighboring minaret and the rooftops of Fes. Come here for Moroccan coffees, cookies and local dishes. 

Cofee Kortoba El Karaouine.  A street-side bakery with freshly made trays of Moroccan patisserie like Gazelle Horns, crescent shaped pastries filled with almond paste, or Ghriba, crumbly almond cookies. 

Moroccan Cuisine 

Tagine.  A mixture of vegetables, meats, dried fruits and spices stewed together in a conical clay dish. It’s a staple dishes of Moroccan cuisine.

Couscous.  A steamed grain covered in a savory broth and garnished with vegetables and meats.

Harira.  A Moroccan soup made from tomatoes, chickpeas, fresh herb and aromatic spices. It’s typically vegetarian. 

Khobs Bread.  A light and airy flatbread served with every meal. It’s fresh baked daily and can be bought from for 1 DH from local bakeries. 

Msemmen.  A flaky and layered pan fried flat bread often eaten at breakfast with honey. It’s commonly cooked by street vendors on flat top griddles. 

Sfenj (Moroccan Donuts).  Yeasty rings of fried dough heavily coated in plain sugar. They’re a common street food snack and usually paired with a tiny cup of coffee. 

Mint Tea.  Hot tea made with fresh mint leaves and sugar cubes. It’s served as a common welcome drink.

Fresh Squeezed Juice.  Juices are commonly drank across Morocco. Try fresh squeed orange, pomegranate or sugar cane from a street side juice cart. 

Moroccan Orange Soda.  Orange is one of the most popular flavors in Morocco. Try a Moroccan orange soda like Orangina or Hawai.

Stay in a Riad

Fes is famed for its elaborate Riads, traditional Moroccan guest houses. They offer tranquil places to stay within the heart of the chaotic medina. 

Riad in Old Fes Place Seffarine.  A maze of narrow alleyways leads through the souks to this hidden gem in the  medina. Its door opens up to an elaborate courtyard decorated in Moroccan tiles, exquisite plasterwork and carved wooden panels. A tiled stairways leads to tiny seating areas and a rooftop with panoramic views of Fes. Grand suites fit the sultans of old provide travelers with a luxurious Moroccan experience. We booked our stay 6 months in advance on Airbnb. 

Getting Around 

On Foot.  Fes and its medina are best explored on foot. The maze of winding streets and narrow alleyways offers a true glimpse into the history of the city. While the medina is large and hilly, most walkways are covered, providing welcome shade from the hot sun. You don’t need a guide; expect to get lost, turned around and come to dead ends. Navigating gets easier after the first day. 

Good to Know.  Ignore people trying to offer directions. They may ask where you’re going, tell you a road or place is closed, try leading you into a shop or ask for a tip.

Petit Taxi.  Small red taxis are present throughout the city. They’re safe, affordable and quick when getting around. Hail one off the street or near a gate to the medina.  Fares cost between 10-20 Dirham for short distances and up to 100 Dirham between the medina and airport. Always confirm price and destination before getting in. Petit taxis are shared so drivers may stop to pick up other passengers along the route.

Arabic Words & Phrases 

Knowing a few worlds and phases in Arabic goes a long way in Moroccan when interacting with locals. Some of the most common and easy to remember are: 

• Hello = Salama

• Goodbye = Beslama

• Thank you = Shukran

• You’re welcome = Marhaba 

Location Specifics

When to Visit.  September is the best month of the year to visit Morocco. It’s just before peak travel season with hot to moderate temperatures. 

Language.  Arabic, French and English are commonly spoken by many people, seen on signage and menus. 

Cash vs Card.  Cash is preferred and often only accepted method of payment at many businesses. Confirm before ordering at restaurants or agreeing to services.

Safety.  The medina is a generally safe destination to visit. Be aware of your surrounding and keep hold of personal belonging to avoid pick pocketing. 

Dress Conservatively.  Don’t show too much skin, try to cover most tattoos and remove piercing. 

Berber Hospitality.  Shopkeepers often offer mint tea when visiting their shops, it’s respectful to accept. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption or cooking with in Morocco. Only use bottled water. 

Alcohol.  The sale of alcohol is heavily controlled throughout the country. Very few establishments serve cocktails, beer or wine in Fes. 

Slow Mornings.  Mornings in Fes are slow. Most businesses and shops don’t open until at least 10am. 

Friday Closures.  Friday is a day of prayer and rest in Islam. The city is quieter than other days. Many shops, restaurants and businesses are closed during this time.

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Moroccan laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Elsewhere in Morocco

We spent a little over three weeks traveling across Morocco, experiencing so much of the country’s culture, cuisine and history. Drive across the Atlas Mountains to the Sahara Desert, making stops at palm oases and crumbing Kasbahs on a Morocco Road Trip. Get lost in the chaotic alleyways, spice markets and souks of Marrakesh. Wander the azure streets and hillside of Chefchaouen. Enjoy the coastal atmosphere and influences of in Casablanca.

For Next Time…

Morocco is a beautiful destination with historic cities, scenic landscapes and cultural allure. We have a shortlist of places to visit when we return. 

Meknes.  An ancient city at the heart of Morocco’s wine producing region. Its nearby vineyards offer tours, tastings and wine pairings. 

Volubilis.  An ancient Roman city with well preserved ruins and mosaics from the former empire. 

Essaouira.  A port city on the Atlantic with a picturesque medina, coastal ramparts and fresh seafood restaurants. 

Marrakech Travel Guide: Medina, Souks & Moroccan Cuisine

Marrakech, Morocco

Marrakech is an intoxicating destination, both chaotic and charming. Maze-like alleyways wind through the walled medina, past historic buildings adorned with intricate architectural details. Bustling souks brim with artisans and colorful displays of rugs, luminous brass lamps, vivid spices and Moroccan sweets. Narrow streets open to lively plazas filled with performers and vendors, as the scents of mint tea and tagines drift through the air. 

The Medina 

The medina is the historic center of Marrakech. Arched gates lead into a maze of winding alleys and shadowed passageways. Warm sandstone building line cobblestone streets, their adobe facades softened by time. Ornate wooden doors and intricate archways lead to Islamic landmarks. Roadside stalls overflow with vegetables and spices as donkey carts rattle past. Crowds move through bustling souks, haggling with shopkeepers, while restaurants and cafes compete for attention. Riads provide calm retreats from the chaos and heat while rooftop terraces offer sweeping views of the ancient city and its towering minarets. 

Bab Doukkala.  Daily life unfolds in this traditional corner of the medina. Small souks and street vendors cater to local needs. Intimate tea houses and neighborhood restaurants bring together locals and tourists. Side streets branch into alleyways and dead ends, often revealing the calm rhythm within the maze. 

Mellah.  The old Jewish quarter offers a glimpse into everyday life. Shaded arcades support lively souks while side streets lead to quiet residential areas. The scent of warm baked breads drifts from bakeries. Visible signs of earthquake damage and ongoing repairs mark the resilience and enduring character of the neighborhood.

Shop the Souks & Markets

Souks, traditional Moroccan markets, weave through the medina in bustling alleyways of shops and vendors. They’re a wonderful place to experience Moroccan culture! They brim with vibrant colors, fragrant scents and lively sounds of haggling customers. Stalls overflow with aromatic goods like spices, teas and perfumes while others showcase artisan crafts like Berber carpets, brass lamps and leather goods. 

Souk Semmarine.  A sprawling souk and the largest in Marrakech. Its vibrant tapestry of Moroccan goods draws multitudes of visitors. Shopkeepers swing open large wooden doors to reveal dazzling displays. Berber vendors sell patterned rugs, colorful poufs and fuzzy pillows alongside linen scarves, leather goods and vivid paintings. Hammered brass lamps shimmer alongside copper tea pots, inlaid wooden boxes, clay tagines and ceramics. Bins overflow with herbal teas, spices, dates, snack mixes and pastries. Alleys of vendors branch off from this bustling souk while its main passageway leads visitors to the famed Jemaa el-Fnaa Square.

Places des Epices.  A bustling plaza lined with merchants selling pyramids of ground spices, jars of herbs, dried flowers, teas and perfumes. Shopkeepers invite customers to taste and smell samples of their products then haggle over price. Souk vendors fill the center of the plaza with Moroccan rugs, stacked poufs, wicker baskets and colorful decor. Cafes serving Berber tea and spiced coffee surround the plaza offering rooftop and street side seating. 

Souk des Tapis.  A large market showcasing Moroccan and Berber carpets. Stacks of folded rugs rise from floor to ceiling of showrooms while large pieces are displayed on walls. Each rug is unique, ranging from traditional to modern weaves and vintage designs. Vendors guide visitors through their shop and nearby warehouses, offering mint tea as they unfurl multiple rugs. After viewing a dozen designs, it’s time to narrow choices and haggle or thank the vendor and leave. 

Roadside Markets.  Locals buy groceries from small roadside markets and stands. Baskets brim with fresh vegetables, fruits, herbs and eggs. Butchers display meat on hooks or tabletops. Drums hold pickled olives, flours and grains like lentils, couscous and beans. Prices are refreshingly fair; no haggling required. Small convenience stores called Hanouts, are best for dairy, beverages and everyday essentials 

Tips for Haggling:

• Engage with locals. Most are genuinely friendly. 

• Haggling is expected and part of the culture. 

• Prices start high. Never accept the first price. 

• Offer one quarter of the asking price and aim to pay no more than half.

• Be ready to walk away after your “last final” offer; vendors often reconsider.

• Walk away if not interested or uncomfortable. 

• Only haggle if you’re serious about purchasing. 

See the Sights 

Madrasa Ben Youssef.  A 14th century Islamic school famed for its sophisticated design and intricate details. Its central courtyard is one of the finest examples of Moroccan architectural style. Kaleidoscopic tiles, chiseled plaster and carved wooden elements define the space. Zellige patterns and Quranic text adorn its many surfaces. White marble floors surround a tiled reflecting pool. Arched windows lookout from the second floor where dozens of private study rooms line hallways and interior light wells.

Pro Tip.  Arrive at opening to see the courtyard with the fewest visitors.

Almoravid Koubba.  A 12th century mosque and the oldest surviving structure in the medina. A small domed tower stands within an excavated pit surrounded by stone ruins. It’s off-limits to non-Muslims but viewable from beyond a gated perimeter. 

Koutoubia Mosque.  A historic mosque with the tallest minaret in the medina. The existing building and surrounding ruins date back to the 12th century. Its sandstone and tan brick facade feature Moorish arches and minimal ornamentation distinctive of the period. The mosque is off limits to non-Muslims but viewable from the outside. A large park with lush palm gardens, shaded walkways, fountains and benches encompass it. 

Marrakech Museum.  A former palace converted into a Moroccan art and history museum. Small galleries house historic artifacts including clothing, pottery, jewelry and furniture. Contemporary artwork and photographs depict Marrakech, the Atlas Mountains and the local people. Through its interiors, visitors can admire the former palace’s architectural features and intricate designs.

Bahia Palace.  A 19th century palace renowned for its stylized rooms, expansive courtyards and elaborate craftsmanship. It’s regarded as one of the best examples of Moroccan architecture. Its interior halls and chambers are decorated with intricately carved woodwork and plaster designs. Brass chandeliers hang from meticulously painted ceilings. Finely tiled surfaced cover columns, fireplaces and floors. The palace was heavy damaged by the earthquake but remains open during restoration. 

Badi Palace.  A 16th century palace characterized by its crumbling ruins, stone walls and vast courtyard. Underground tunnels lead to exposed ruins of guest quarters. Pitted sandstone walls with Arabesque arches surround the courtyard. Emptied pools reveal mosaic tiled floors while citrus trees grow from gardens in its four quadrants. Galleries display photographs of old Marrakech and artifacts discovered during the palace’s excavation, including tools, pottery, coins and scrolls. 

Saadian Tombs.  A mausoleum containing the tombs of a former sultan and many of his family members. The tombs are treasured for their Moorish design, white marble chambers, Zellij tile work and delicate plaster details. They were heavily damaged during the 2023 earthquake and closed for viewing. Their Moorish exterior and the adjacent mosque are still while undergoing restoration.

Walls of Marrakech.  The medina is surrounded by a series of protective walls and arched gates that allow movement in and out of the old city. It spans nearly 22km with sections reaching over 10 meters high. 

• Bab el Raha. A pristine section of wall is marked by one of the medina’s most imposing entrances, where twin octagonal towers flank an arched stone gate. 

• Bab Agnaou.  A 12th century archway featuring an ornately carved grey stone facade. It was used as the main entrance to the Badi Palace within the medina. 

Le Jardin Majorelle.  A famed botanical garden featuring a collection of cacti and dry palms from around the world. Red painted pathways lead through the garden past small reflecting pools and lily ponds to a historic blue villa. The richly painted house is accented with Moroccan designs and houses a Berber craft museum. Its galleries are curated with artifacts from tribes across the Atlas Mountains including jewelry, clothing, pottery, tools and weapons. No photos are allowed inside. 

Pro Tip.  Reserve 9am tickets a couple weeks in advance to avoid the crowds. 

Jemaa El-Fnaa Square.  A vast plaza known for its street performers, food stalls and rooftop terraces. Its energy shifts dramatically from day to night. Juice carts, henna artists and ethically questionable street performers with live animals buzz about the square by day. As evening falls, the spectacle gives way to rows of food stands serving grilled kebabs and sizzling tagines. Hype men lure diners though most stalls offer identical dishes at similar prices. Negotiate for a free appetizer and confirm the final cost before ordering.

Places to Eat & Drink

Restaurant Dardar.  A rooftop eatery with panoramic views of the medina and its tan buildings. It has a hidden feel to it, nestled within a souk and only reachable by a dark-green tiled staircase. Come here for Moroccan wines and traditional dishes. 

Zouhal Food.  A street side restaurant in the medina offering vegetarian versions of traditional Moroccan dishes like tagines, pastilla and couscous. The flavors are savory, the prices are affordable and the service is excellent. 

Cafe Arabe.  A shaded rooftop terrace with a full bar. Come here to escape the mid-afternoon sun, sip on refreshing cocktails and enjoy picturesque views of Marrakech.

Le Jardin.  A garden restaurant nestled within a lush courtyard. They serve a variety of contemporary Mediterranean and Moroccan dishes and cold pressed juices. 

Cafe des Epices.  A large cafe in the Places des Epices brewing spiced coffees and mint teas. Their ground floor patio spills into the plaza while their rooftop overlooks the chaotic souk below. 

Sweet & Sook.  A frozen sweets shop with Moroccan flavors of sorbet and ice cream. We visited twice, trying a scoop of everything on the menu! The orange cinnamon sorbet and the chebakia ice cream made with orange blossom, almond, honey, cinnamon and sesame were our favorites. 

Khobs Bakery.  A bakery specializing in the Moroccan bread, khobs. A baker invited us to watch as the team worked the dough, leavened the bread, loaded the oven and stacked bakes into baskets for delivery. Not officially named, use this Map Pin to find it. 

Moroccan Cuisine 

Tagine.  A mixture of vegetables, meats, dried fruits and spices stewed together in a conical clay dish. It’s a staple dishes of Moroccan cuisine.

Couscous.  A steamed grain covered in a savory broth and garnished with vegetables and meats.

Harira.  A Moroccan soup made from tomatoes, chickpeas, fresh herb and aromatic spices. It’s typically vegetarian. 

Khobs Bread.  A light and airy flatbread served with every meal. It’s fresh baked daily and can be bought from for 1 DH from local bakeries. 

Msemmen.  A flaky and layered pan fried flat bread often eaten at breakfast with honey. It’s commonly cooked by street vendors on flat top griddles. 

Sfenj (Moroccan Donuts).  Yeasty rings of fried dough heavily coated in plain sugar. They’re a common street food snack and usually paired with a tiny cup of coffee. 

Mint Tea.  Hot tea made with fresh mint leaves and sugar cubes. It’s served as a common welcome drink.

Fresh Squeezed Juice.  Juices are commonly drank across Morocco. Try fresh squeed orange, pomegranate or sugar cane from a street side juice cart. 

Moroccan Orange Soda.  Orange is one of the most popular flavors in Morocco. Try a Moroccan orange soda like Orangina or Hawai.

Stay in a Riad

Riads are traditional Moroccan hotels built around a central courtyard. They offer tranquil places to stay within the heart of the chaotic Medina. 

Riad Merstane.  Tucked away at the end of a winding alley, the riad is a peaceful retreat just steps from the nearby souks and sights of the medina. Comfortable rooms open up to a sunlit courtyard filled with lush greenery. Moroccan decor and artwork add style and authenticity to the space. A second floor living room and spacious rooftop offer places to relax and unwind. A well equipped kitchen provides the chance to prepare Moroccan meals while each morning begins with a generous breakfast spread. Reserve on Booking.

Getting Around 

On Foot.  Marrakech and its medina are best explored on foot. The maze of winding streets and narrow alleyways offers a true glimpse into the history of the city. Expect to get lost, turned around and come to dead ends. Navigating gets easier after the first day.  

Good to Know.  Ignore people trying to offer directions. They may ask where you’re going, tell you a road or place is closed, try leading you into a shop or ask for a tip.

Airport Taxi.  Taxis between the medina and airport cost around 100dh. Most riads can arrange for one, otherwise hail one on the street or near a gate to the medina. Always confirm price and destination before getting in.

Arabic Words & Phrases 

Knowing a few worlds and phases in Arabic goes a long way in Moroccan when interacting with locals. Some of the most common and easy to remember are: 

• Hello = Salama

• Goodbye = Beslama

• Thank you = Shukran

• You’re welcome = Marhaba 

Location Specifics

When to Visit.  September is the best month of the year to visit Morocco. It’s just before peak travel season with hot to moderate temperatures. 

Language.  Arabic, French and English are commonly spoken by many people, seen on signage and menus. 

Cash vs Card.  Cash is preferred and often only accepted method of payment at many businesses. Confirm before ordering at restaurants or agreeing to services.

Safety.  Marrakech’s medina is a generally safe destination to visit. Be aware of your surrounding and keep hold of personal belonging to avoid pick pocketing. 

Drinking Water.  Tap water is not safe for consumption or cooking with in Morocco. Only use bottled water. 

Alcohol.  The sale of alcohol is heavily controlled throughout the country. Only some restaurants will serve cocktails, beer and wine. 

Earthquake Damage.  Marrakech is still recovering from the devastating 2023 earthquake. Several historic sights remain closed or partially opened as renovation continue. 

LGBTQ+ Safety.  Moroccan laws and customs are not very accepting of LGBTQ+ individuals. Stay up to date with the latest laws and suggestions while traveling. Refer to our guide on LGBTQ+ Travel Safety for more advice. 

Elsewhere in Morocco

We spent a little over three weeks traveling across Morocco, experiencing so much of the country’s culture, cuisine and history. Drive across the Atlas Mountains to the Sahara Desert, making stops at palm oases and crumbing Kasbahs on a Morocco Road Trip. Explore the ancient medina and historic Islamic sights of Fes. Wander the azure streets and hillside of Chefchaouen. Enjoy the coastal atmosphere and influences of in Casablanca.

For Next Time…

Morocco is a beautiful destination with historic cities, scenic landscapes and cultural allure. We have a shortlist of places to visit when we return. 

Meknes.  An ancient city at the heart of Morocco’s wine producing region. Its nearby vineyards offer tours, tastings and wine pairings. 

Volubilis.  An ancient Roman city with well preserved ruins and mosaics from the former empire. 

Essaouira.  A port city on the Atlantic with a picturesque medina, coastal ramparts and fresh seafood restaurants.

Madagascar Travel Guide: Baobabs, Tsingy, Lemurs & Malagasy Culture

Madagascar

Madagascar is a vast island nation famed for its exotic biodiversity and stunning landscapes. Baobab trees tower across the horizon. Endangered lemurs leap through dense forests. Colorful chameleons lurk in the jungle. Jagged rock formations carve through the landscape. Orange sunsets make way to starry night skies. Back roads lead past remote villages. Restaurants serve Malagasy cuisine and locally infused rums. Wooden ships and outrigger canoes take sail from costal towns. Calms waves lap onshore white sand beaches and desert islands. Whales migrate in the deep coastal waters. Madagascar is truly an under the radar destination full of wonders. We spent 10 days exploring the country and experiencing its vast beauty.  

Morondava

Morondava is a tropical fishing town on the western coast of Madagascar. It’s a hub for the natural wonders like The Avenue of the Baobabs, Kirindy Forest and Tsingy National Park. 

Nosy Kely.  A seaside neighborhood in Morondava located between the town’s beach and mangrove forest. It has a tropical and authentic Malagasy atmosphere, accommodating both residents and visitors. Palm trees sway above thatched wooden homes and locally operated hotels. Restaurants and roadside kiosks serve freshly caught seafood and Malagasy dishes. 

Route Nationale 35.  Morondava’s main road and the start of one of the country’s central highways. It’s bustling with people, rickshaws and tuk tuks. Roadside shops sell fresh produce, live ducks, French baguettes and miscellaneous items ranging from clothes to solar panels. It’s a convenient location for travel necessities. There are several banks with ATMs, grocery stores and pharmacies. 

Morondava Beach.  A vast sandy beach spanning Morondava’s shoreline. Locals and travelers come here to swim, picnic and sunbathe. Fisherman catch live seafood. Large sailing ships ferry goods along Madagascar’s western coast. Nightly sunsets bathe the shoreline in golden hues. We were even lucky enough to see the green flash! 

Outrigger Canoeing 

Outrigger canoes are one of the main methods of transportation along Morondava’s coast. We joined a pair of fishermen at sea on two days of our trip. We accompanied them while fishing, went whale watching, visited a remote desert island and explored the ship building village of Belo sur Mer. Book with Eto Morondava. 

Deep Water Fishing.  Fishing makes up a large part of the local economy in Morondava. Colorful outrigger canoes and wooden ships line the shores and mangrove channels. We joined two fishermen on their outrigger for a morning voyage deep into the Mozambique Channel. Far off shore, the coastline of Madagascar was no longer visible. The vast blue of the ocean spanned across the horizon in all directions. The fishermen dragged two lines behind the boat, hoping to hook a barracuda, shark or tuna. After hours battling strong winds and fighting fish, they hooked and pulled an amberjack from the sea.

Whale Watching.  Humpback Whales migrate along the coast of Madagascar in the Mozambique Channel separating the island nation from mainland Africa. Jets of mist appeared on the horizon as a pod of humpback whales migrated through the waters. The pod surfaced every few minutes, exposing their iconic hump backs and giant finned tails. Even from a distance, their grand size dwarfed our captain’s outrigger canoe. Before disappearing into the depths, one whale continually slapped its fins against the surface of the water, as if waving us goodbye. Peak migration happens between July and September.

Belo sur Mer Village.  Belo sur Mer is a remote coastal village renowned for its hand built wooden ships. The village’s beach is lined with dozens of ship yards, colorfully painted vessels, dugout canoes and outrigger boats. Many of the traditional ships range in level of progress. Skeleton frames and partially planked sides stand onshore. Men chisel wooden pieces, hammer nails into boards and seal seams. Completed ships float offshore in the village’s natural harbor. Sandy streets and pathways meander further inland. Stickbuilt enclosures surround traditional houses made from wooden walls and thatched roofs. It’s a beautiful and remote destination with unique traditions. 

Belo sur Mer Voyage.  Belo sur Mer is located 100km south of Morondava. The voyage between takes between 3-4 hours, offering scenic glimpses into the coastal landscape and remote villages. Untouched forests, white sand beaches, steep dunes and sheer rocks cliffs cover the coast. Small villages with thatched huts, beached dug out canoes and local people line pockets of the shoreline. Fishing vessels with rectangular sails billow across the sea like sheets in the wind. 

Nosy Andrahavo.  Nosy Andrahavo is a lonely desert island in the deep blue ocean. It appears as a yellow sand dune rising from the sea, surrounded by the most vibrant shades of turquoise, aquamarine and blue. Bleached corals and shells decorate the shores. It’s possibly to walk the circumference of the island in half an hour. There is no natural shade on the island though the cool waters offer a refreshing escape. The crew prepared us a Malagasy meal on the beach, Trondro Gasy, a dish made from stewed fish with a tomato base, bell peppers and onions. 

Avenue of the Baobabs 

The Avenue of the Baobabs is one of Madagascar’s most iconic sights. Dozens of towering baobab trees flank both sides of a dirt road, creating a dramatic and picturesque landscape. Baobab trees are recognizable by their massive trunks, smooth bark and uniquely shaped canopy of branching limbs. We visited for the sunrise and sunset, getting to experience the avenue in all its grandeur. Book with Eto Morondava. 

Sunrise at The Avenue of the Baobabs.  The sunrise is a tranquil time to experience the Avenue of the Baobabs. The starry night sky quickly brightens with colors of purple, orange and yellow. The silhouettes of the baobabs take on more definition as daylight breaks. 

Sunset at The Avenue of the Baobabs.  The sunset is the most popular time of day to visit the Avenue of the Baobabs. Arrive in the late afternoon to experience the baobabs in full daylight. Watch as the setting sun illuminates them in a golden glow. Their silhouettes provide a dramatic contrast against the orange sky. We visited twice on our returns from Kirindy and Tsingy. 

Pro Tip.  The best view is across a pond looking west towards the avenue and the sunset. 

Famous Baobabs 

Baobabs in Love.  The Baobabs in Love are two baobabs trees growing around each other in a loving embrace. The phenomenon uncommon making the two trees a beloved landmark.

The Sacred Baobab.  The Sacred Baobab is a massive baobab tree sacred to the local people. Villagers come here to pray beneath it for rain, good harvest and pregnant cattle. The shrine surrounding the tree must be entered barefoot, connecting one’s self to nature. 

Forest of the Baobabs.  A vast area with thousands of densely clustered baobabs covering the landscape in between farmland. It’s an impressive sight to witness, located over an hour past the Avenue of the Baobabs on the route to Tsingy National Park. 

Baobab Vendors.  Local roadside vendors operate kiosks nearby most of the iconic baobab sights. They sell statuettes of carved wooden baobabs, baobab fruits, baobab honey and snacks. We sipped on coffee with Mofo Gasy, a Malagasy pancake made from rice flour.

Good to Know.  The baobabs loose their leaves during the dry season, exposing their nebulous limbs. The dry season happens between May and October. 

Kirindy Forest

Kirindy Forest is a protected nature reserve home to wild lemurs, exotic birds and snails. Trails lead through dense thicket of small trees with the occasional baobab towering above the surrounding forest. Book with Eto Morondava. 

Lemur Tracking.  Led by a guide, we tracked two groups of brown lemurs and one group of white lemurs. The brown lemurs nibbled on fruits in the tree top canopy while others foraged along the forest floor. Some were very curious, approaching close enough to see their amber eyes and long fuzzy tails in detail. The group of white lemurs stayed higher in the trees. They leapt great distances, springing quickly from tree to tree. One perched on a branch as its baby held closely onto its chest. 

Pro Tip.  Visit during the dry season when the forest is mostly bare for the best change of spotting lemurs. 

Good to Know.  It’s strictly forbidden to feed lemurs in order to prevent dependencies on humans. Guides however leave water in snail shells for them to drink from. 

Getting Here.  The route to Kirindy Forest is a bumpy adventure down a pitted dirt road.  It’s located an hour beyond the Avenue of the Baobabs and only reachable by 4x4. 

Places to Eat & Drink in Morondava

Le Corail.  A Malagasy restaurant with freshly caught seafood. We visited for our first lunch, sharing a spread of dishes including coconut shrimp, crab croquettes and squid skewers while sipping in Rhum au Coco and Ti Punch.

Bleu Soleil.  A beachfront restaurant with a chalk board menu featuring a list of “plats des jour” and the daily catch. We ordered the coconut stewed octopus and grilled tuna steaks bathed in a savory seafood broth. 

Bleu Soleil Glace.  An ice cream shop attached to the Bleu Soleil Restaurant. They serve freshly made soft serve ice cream using local fruits and flavors like Madagascar vanilla, coconut, baobab, chocolate and coffee. 

L'Etoile.  A bar with house infused Malagasy rums. A spectrum of bottles are displayed on a shelf behind the bar, each with a different rum infusion. We each sampled and sipped on several rums infused the vanilla, cola, herbs, coffee, dates, anise, baobab, coconut and cocoa. At night, a live band plays Malagasy music. 

Hotely Gasy.  A popular street food kitchen with Malagasy dishes displayed in a glass cases. We ordered a whole fish, boiled cassava, cucumber salad and fry breads. It’s a very affordable way to taste the local cuisine. 

Casa Marina Restaurant.  A hotel restaurant on Morondava Beach with free sun lounges and thatched umbrellas for customers and guests. We ordered cocktails from the bar and laid out for the afternoon. 

Law Milka Boulangerie Patisserie.  A locally famous bakery with French style pastries, classic baguettes and cakes. We ordered an eclair, pan au chocolate, custard raisin roll. 

Where to Stay in Morondava 

Kily House.  A boutique hotel in Nosy Kely with spacious and well designed rooms with outdoor patios. The hotel is located nearby several Malagasy restaurants and the town’s main beach. They offer coffee and breakfast, arrange tours and transfers. Reserve on Booking.

Good to Know.  There are scheduled nightly power outages between 6-10pm each night. Most businesses and hotels have generators to compensate. 

Tsingy National Park 

Tsingy National Park is a stone forest with a labyrinth of jagged and cathedral-like limestone formations. A series of walkways, suspension bridges and ladders weave through the park’s two sections, Grand Tsingy and Petite Tsingy. Book with Eto Morondava. 

Grand Tsingy 

Grand Tsingy is the largest and most impressive section of Tsingy National Park. The best way to experience it is on the Andamozayaky Trail. It leads through the rock forest and cathedral to reach The Tsingy. 

The Rock Forest.  The Rock Forest is a tree covered area with craggily rock formations. Ladders lead through steep crevices and over large boulders. Tree roots and vines are frequently used for support and balance. It’s a habitat for primates like the Sportive Lemur. Fossils of Jurassic period corals are visible in the bleached limestone. A shallow cave leads through the final section of The Rock Forest into the beginning of The Cathedral. 

The Cathedral.  The Cathedral is an area with vertical sections and towering stone walls that open to sky above. The trails are technical and more challenging than in The Rock Forest. The routes leads through caves, between narrow openings, up mounted stone steps and over abysses on wooden platforms. We attached our harnesses to cables for safety along jagged crevices and on steep ladders to reach The Tsingy.

The Tsingy.  The Tsingy is the most dramatic area of the national park. Thousands of eroded limestone formations point upwards like Gothic style spires. Cantilevered sections appear to be floating. Lookout platforms offer panoramic views of the sharp and jagged landscape. A suspension bridge crosses a steep ravine separating both viewpoints. 

Petite Tsingy 

Petite Tsingy, as its name implies is a smaller version of Grand Tsingy. It’s located along the banks of the Manambolo River in Bekopaka. A lush trail meanders into the jagged rock forest and labyrinth of crevices through a Gothic arched tunnel. The series of crevices slice through the jungle, some barely wide enough to shimmy through. Vines and roots drape down their rock walls. Flooded channels remain from the wet season. The trail ascends to an observation deck with views of the jagged limestone spires and surrounding forest. 

Getting to Tsingy National Park

Getting to Tsingy National Park from Morondava is part of the adventure. It takes a full day to reach in a hired 4x4 vehicle. The route is only accessible during the dry season between June and November. It leads along unmarked back roads, across rivers on barges, past rural villages and through baobab forests. It includes stops at Belo Tsiribihina for lunch and a multi night stay in the village of Bekopaka.

Good to Know: 

• Book a guided tour with transportation to Tsingy in advance. 

• A local guide is required to enter the national park. They can be hired from the Tsingy National Park office in Bekopaka.

• Visit before 7am. The sun and the heat can be overwhelming by mid morning. 

• Tsingy is pronounced “chingy” 

Lunch in Belo Tsiribihina

Belo Tsiribihina is a large town along the Mania River. It’s the halfway point between Morondava and Tsingy National Park making it a frequent lunch stop.

Karibo Restaurant.  A hotel restaurant with a chalkboard menu of daily dishes. We ordered a shrimp cocktail and tomato salad while on our way to Tsingy. 

Mad Zebu.  A very popular restaurant with Malagasy and Italian fusion dishes. We ordered two vegetarian plates to share, the tomato sweet potato gnocchi and red bean and coconut veloute with black rice arancini.  

Bekopaka Village 

Bekopaka is a remote village along the Manambolo River outside Tsingy National Park. It’s serves as an entry point to the park and as a location to stay with various hotels and campgrounds 

Where to Stay in Bekopaka

Tanankoay.  An eco hotel and campground with a range of thatched cabins and campsites in Bekopaka near Tsingy National Park. We slept in a cozy A frame style cabin. The hotel has a small restaurant with a range of Malagasy and French dishes. Try the ratatouille, spiced rice and Kabaro au Curry, a local dish made from coconut curry stewed beans. 

Bekopaka Night Walk 

Madagascar’s forests come to life with nocturnal animals as night falls across the landscape. Led by a guide from the Bekopaka Village, we explored the forested trails behind the Tsingy National Park office. 

Nocturnal Animals.  We immediately began spotting green and brown chameleons resting on tree branches and camouflaging themselves behind leaves. Their remarkable appearance is emphasized by their color changing skin, coiled tails and swiveling eyes. A pair of tiny mouse lemurs played in the dense thicket. One inspected us from a branch above our heads. Its big eyes and little body make it one of natures most adorable creatures. A beautifully patterned tree boa slithered up the trunk of a tree looking for its next meal. A small frog glistened on the dry leaves of the forest floor. 

Good to Know.  Visit the Tsingy National Park office in Bekopaka to hire a guide. The night walk lasts an hour and costs less than $10 USD per person.

Manambolo River Gorge 

The Manambolo River Gorge is a limestone canyon carved by the Manambolo River near Tsingy National Park. Villagers from Bekopaka navigate its waters on wooden dugout canoes as a means of fishing, transporting goods and tourism. 

Dugout Canoeing.  A local boatsman paddled us upstream on a wooden dugout canoe in the early morning. The sun rose above a bend in the river canyon, Illuminating the picturesque landscape. The chocolaty brown waters paint the limestone cliffs in warm shades of orange and brown. Erosion carves small caves and crevices into the canyon walls. We walked through a rippled cave entrance and into its dark inner chamber. Our lights revealed crystalline stalactites, jagged rock formations and tree roots from the forest above.

Good to Know.  Like Tsingy National Park, the Manambolo River Gorge is only accessible during the dry season between June and November. 

Rural Madagascar

The rural landscape of Madagascar is defined by its remote villages, vast farmland and towering baobab trees. Pitted dirt roads lead across many parts of the country. Baobab trees grow from between crops and rice paddies. Small villages are comprised of straw, wooden and adobe huts. Women wear vibrant patterned outfits and mud masks as a sign of beauty and for sun protection. Men heard groups of goats and drive carts led by Zebu, the local cattle. Children wave and shout out bonjour and salama from roadsides. 

Andasibe

Andasibe is a rural town nestled in the forested hills of Eastern Madagascar. It’s an entry point to multiple nature reserves and national parks including the Mitsinjo Reserve, Analamazoatra Reserve and Mantadia National Park. The town is home to several eco-hotels, roadside restaurants and farm stands.

Mitsinjo Reserve

Mitsinjo is protected forest reserve in Andasibe home to many species of wild lemurs and colorful chameleons. Guides offer nature walks and nocturnal visits through the forest’s dense trails in search of these remarkable animals. Tickets can be purchased and guides can be hired at the Mitsinjo Park Office. 

The Grand Circuit (Vahimantsina Circuit).  The Grand Circuit is one of four trails leading through the Mitsinjo Reserve. It allows plenty of opportunities to spot lemurs and chameleons, taking between 3-4 hours to complete. 

Indri Lemur.  The Indri are known for their haunting calls and adorable appearance. Though critically endangered, they’re frequently seen and heard within the reserve. Our guide tracked two separate families. One group sat in the trees, chomping on leaves and testing them for softness with their tongues. Their furry black torsos and white limbs hugged the trees. Their jet black faces and greenish eyes occasionally stared down at us. We watched and listened to a second group call out. Tilting their heads back, their piercing song echoed throughout the forest. 

Diademed Sifaka Lemur.  The Diademed Sifaka is a critically endangered species of lemur native to the forest reserve. We trudged off trail to track a small family feeding on leaves in the verdant canopy. They gracefully leapt from tree to tree, looking around before contributing their meal. The sunlight illuminated their tricolored golden, white and grey fur.

Parsons Chameleon.  Chameleons are a common sight in the park, though rarer to see during the daytime. We spotted an adult Parson’s Chameleon resting on a tree limb. Its vibrant green scales and brown patches blended in with its surroundings. Its long tail coiled up as it slowly walked while its independent eyes looked back at us.

Mitsinjo Night Walk.  The Mitsinjo Reserve Night Walk is one of the best ways to see all types of nocturnal creatures. Our guide led us through the dark jungle trail and along the roadside, pointing out numerous species of chameleon. We saw a sleeping baby Parsons Chameleon, a Brown Leaf Chameleon and a Nose Horn Chameleon, the smallest species of chameleon. Mouse Lemurs ran across and mated on tree branches. Tree frogs sat on leaves. Spiders lurked in webs, a praying mantis hunted for prey and a large moth displayed into open wings.

Mantadia National Park

Mantadia National Park is a vast area of primary rainforest with tropical vegetation and remote hiking trails. Multiple circuits lead through the park, offering opportunities to enjoy the untouched nature and watch for its illusive lemurs. 

Visiting Mantadia National Park. The Mantadia National Park Office is located 100m down the road from the Mitsinjo Reserve. Circuits within the park are located 2 hours further by car. The muddy road in between is only accessible with a 4x4 vehicle and driver. Visit the park office a day in advance or at 7am day of to book transportation, buy tickets and hire a guide. Round trip transportation can be arranged for around $60 USD. The park office also offers guided tours of the Analamazoatra Reserve, a popular spot to listen for and spot Indri Lemurs.

Tsakoka Circuit.  A three hour trail through the Mantadia National Park. It’s regarded by local guides as the best circuit to see varying species of the park’s difficult to spot lemurs. The muddy trail leads through the lush forest past moss covered and lichen spotted tree trunks. Twisting vines and aerial roots hanging from dense canopy. Large ferns and giant plants grown from the forest floor. The songs of Indri Lemurs echo through the forest while the growls and grunts of Black and White Ruffed Lemurs reverberate in the distance.

Black and White Ruffed Lemur.  The park is a habitat for the critically endangered Black and White Ruffed Lemur. They’re recognizable by their fluffy black and white appearance, large size and distinctive call. It took two hours to track them by their calls. Three ate fruits and hopped between branches in the high tree top canopy. 

General Park Information 

There is not much info on any of the park websites about Mitsinjo Reserve or Mantadia National Parkregarding basic information like opening hours, ticket prices or hiring guides. Below is some helpful advice based on our experience. 

• Opening Hours.  The parks are open daily between 7am-4pm. Arrive before 8am when the lemurs are most active. Stay close by the park offices for easier access.

• Prices.  Ticket prices vary depending on the circuits chosen and their length. Expect to pay 35K to 120K Ariary per circuit. There is a daily 5K Ariary Community Development Tax. Tickets can only be purchases with cash. 

• Guides.  Guides are required when visiting the parks and reserves. They can be hired at the park ticket offices. 

• Tipping.  Plan to tip drivers and guides 10% - 20% of the circuit price.

• Gear & Attire.  The park trails are often muddy, even during the dry season. Wear boots or sturdy shoes and bring a hiking pole for extra support. The temperature is cooler in the mornings and evening. Wear light removable layers while hiking. Bring a flashlight for night walks. 

Getting to Andasibe.  Andasibe is located between 3-4 hours from Antananarivo by car. Most hotels offer round trip transportation. There are also taxi stands and drivers available at the airport. Prices are very expensive regardless of the option you choose, often costing around $120 USD one way. 

Where to Stay in Andasibe

Soanala Hotel Andasibe. An eco-hotel with several A frame style bungalows built into the forested hillside of Andasibe. Its walking distance from the park entrances of the Mitsinjo Reserve, Analamazoatra Reserve and Mantadia National Park. Their restaurant offers complementary breakfast and well priced meals. Transportation to and from the airport in Antananarivo can be arranged for an additional fee. Reserve on Booking. 

Location Specifics

Language.  Malagasy and French are the two most widely spoken languages in Madagascar. English is very rarely spoken however several school children would often stop us to practice conversing. 

Cash vs Card.  Cash is king in Madagascar! The country runs on a cash based economy using the local currency, Ariary. Exchange USD or Euros at the airport or banks in town. ATMs are frequently out of cash and unreliable. Carry small bills for payments and tips. 

Local Excursions.  After booking an accommodation, most concierge will offer a suite of tours and excursions to book through them. 

For Next Time…

Madagascar is a remarkable country and one we would love to revisit! On our next trip here, we plan to stay in Belo sur Mer to experience of its local culture in depth and explore the dry tropical forest of Kirindy Mitea National Park. In Morondava, we’d spend a day touring the tidal Mangrove Forests. On the country’s east coast, we’d relax on the tropical island of Nosy Be. While in the region, we would visit other Indian Ocean Island Nations like Comoros, Mayotte, Reunion or Mauritius. 

Seychelles Travel Guide: Island Hopping, Tropical Beaches & Granite Boulders

The Seychelles

The Seychelles is remote island nation and tropical getaway in the Indian Ocean. The archipelago is famed for its powdery white sand beaches, orange granite boulders, vibrant turquoise waters, lush landscapes and scenic hiking trails. We spent a little over a week, island hopping and beach bumming between the Inner Islands of Mahe, Praslin and La Digue. 

Mahe 

Mahe is a seahorse shaped island with lush jungleous mountains, massive granite boulders, white sand beaches and turquoise waters. It’s the Seychelles largest and most populous island, hosting the capital city, Victoria, and international airport. It’s the perfect entry point to the tropical paradise!

Mahe Beaches 

Anse Royale Beach.  A crescent shaped tan sand beach with a lengthy shoreline, aquamarine waters and a swimmable bay. Photogenic granite boulders flank the north side of the beach. Pockets of palms offer a respite from the radiant sun. An offshore reef protects the bay from strong waves. A gentle current flows from north to south along shore. Drift snorkel over fields of seagrass home to tropical fish, urchins, eels and sea cucumbers. 

Pro Tip.  If driving here, there is a free parking lot with about 30 spaces. Arrive by 9am to get a spot. 

Beau Vallon Beach.  A crescent shaped white sand beach with calm swimmable waters. It’s Mahe’s largest beach, stretching kilometers along the northwest coast. Come here to enjoy long walks on the beach, watch nightly sunsets and spot fruit bats fluttering between trees. Resorts and restaurants provide places to stay, eat and drink. Tour operators advertise boat trips to nearby islands and beaches. 

Mahe Sights 

Takamaka Rum Distillery.  Takamaka is the Seychelles only rum distillery and the archipelago’s most popular rum brand. They distill a series of rums from molasses and sugarcane including light, dark, aged, overproof and flavors infused with coconut and pineapple. The smell of molasses wafts around the property. Free tours are provided three times daily; no is reservation required. Tours last about an hour and offer glimpses inside the distillery, master blender’s workshop and museum. Finish the tour with a tasting of 8 different rum or with a cocktail at the bar. Mixologists stir and shake a range of rum cocktails. Try the Taka Dream and ZenZann. Order a shareable bites like croquettes, samosas or falafel from their food stand. 

Jardin du Roi Spice.  A historic garden with spices, medicinal plants, tropical fruit trees and endemic palms cultivated by the French colonizers of the Seychelles. Spend an hour walking through the trails, identifying trees and plants on a self guided tour using their map. Visit the tortoise pen with Giant Aldabra tortoises. Their restaurant offers scoops of homemade ice cream with flavors including nutmeg, vanilla, coconut and cinnamon.  

National Botanical Garden.  A lush and colorful botanical garden in Victoria featuring tropical plants, fragrant flowers, spice gardens, towering palms and giant Aldabra Tortoises. The scent of the Cannonball Tree flowers and plumerias wafts through the garden. The world’s largest coconut, the Coco de Mer, hangs from its palm trees. A pen houses dozens of Aldabra Tortoises, the world’s second largest species. Enter the pen to hand feed them greens as they slowly surround you.

Seychelles National Museum of History.  A history museum dedicated to the island’s discovery, settlement, colonial past, independence, ties to piracy, slavery and the spice trade. Its exhibits feature artifacts like treasures from sunken ships, antique maps, cannons and iron shackles. Cultural displays share stories of the island’s folklore, music and traditional homes. The museum occupies a French Creole style building that once served as bank, treasury, courthouse, telegraph office and governor’s office.

Copolia Trail.  A 1.4km trail leading through the dense jungle to a granite plateau with a panoramic views of the Mahe. The verdant and rugged trail ascends over exposed tree roots, past moss covered granite boulders and beneath Seychelles palms. The trail ends at a small ladder leading up to the exposed granite plateau. The clearing offering views of the island, its jungleous mountains and the urban center of Victoria. There’s even a patch of carnivorous pitcher plants. The trail is moderate hike, taking about an hour to reach the summit.

Good to Know.  Free parking is available along the roadside just before the ticket office. The trail opens at 8am for 100 SCR per person. 

Places to Eat & Drink on Mahe

Ocean Beach Restaurant.  An affordable takeaway near Beau Vallon Beach with flavorful curries, salads, noodles and rice dishes. Come here for the smoked fish salad and fish curry. 

Trader Vic’s.  A famed tiki bar and restaurant with locations in tropical destinations around the world. We stopped by for an original Mai Tai and a couple rum cocktails. 

Cafe 74.  A cafe with pastries, fruit bowls and different types of croque monsieur. Order an iced coffee and a spread of pastries for a picnic breakfast at Anse Royal. 

Where to Stay on Mahe

Maison Hibiscus Self Catering.  A cute apartment complex with fully equipped studios for rent. It’s an affordable option nearby Beau Vallon Beach on Mahe. We booked on Airbnb. 

Getting Around Mahe

Rental Car.  The best way to get around Mahe when short on time is by car. Doffay Car Rentalis an extremely well reviewed and affordable rental car agency. They offer pick up from the airport and drop off at locations across the island, including the ferry jetty. 

Victoria Car Park.  A parking lot in the city center of Victoria. The first hour is free. A 1 hour or half day parking pass is needed for any additional time. The pass can be purchased from Antigone Bookstore down the street for a 5 to 15 rupees (less than $1 USD) 

Praslin

Praslin is the postcard picture of a tropical paradise. The island is the second largest in the Seychelles, famed for its idyllic beaches, tropical forests and oceanfront resorts. 

Praslin Beaches 

Anse Lazio.  A stunning white sand beach with some of the most vibrant shades of turquoise and blue in the Indian Ocean. Large orange granite boulders flank both ends, offering quintessential views of the Seychellois shoreline. Catamarans and yachts are anchored off shore. Passing showers make way to colorful rainbows. The tree line offers plenty of places to relax in the shade and listen to the waves crashing on shore. Small hotels and take away restaurants offer lounges for rent, food and drinks. A sandy clearing on the west side is perfect for sunbathing during high tide. Beyond the western boulders is a secluded beach and hidden bar. 

Getting Here.  Take the bus to the Anse Boudin stop. The beach is a 20 minute walk from here.

Petite Anse Lazio.  A tiny white sand beach, flanked by smooth orange boulders and short leafy palm trees. It’s relatively secluded and only reachable via a trail from the eastern side of Anse Lazio. The trail leads uphill through palm thicket and over small boulders. Midway along the trail is a fork that leads to a scenic lookout of Anse Lazio. 

Cote d’Or Beach (Anse Volbert).  A lengthy white sand beach in Anse Volbert Village. Its shallow aquamarine waters stretch hundreds of meters into the ocean. Wade through them to an outcrop of orange granite boulders on the south end of the beach. Walk to towards the north end, stopping to pose with a photogenic palm tree leaning over the white sand. It’s a quiet and convenient area to stay. Small hotels, take away restaurants, grocery stores and tour operators line the beachfront road in the village.

Good to Know.  Be cautious of difficult to spot stingrays. Wear water shoes for protection. 

Anse Georgette.  A small and secluded white sand beach at the Lemuria Resort. There are a couple fruit, juice and cocktail vendors along the tree line. Order the coconut mixed with rum and garnished with a hibiscus flower! The currents can make it difficult to swim while the waves are excellent for body surfing. 

Good to Know.  The number of visitors is limited but not heavily enforced. Call a week in advance to reserve a spot. 

Getting Here. Take the bus to the Mont Plaisir stop. Check in at the Lemuria Resort and walk 20 minutes across the golf course to the beach. 

Praslin Sights

Fond Ferdinand Nature Reserve.  A lush nature reserve with trails leading through the island’s tropical palm forest. Spend a couple hours walking the trails and spotting wildlife like the Seychelles Day Gecko, Seychelles Black Parrot and Seychelles Fruit Bat. Trails meander uphill through an expansive grove of Coco de Mer Palms to the reserve’s lookout point. Views from its hilltop boulders peer across St Anne’s Bay towards the Inner Islands. The high winds ruffle the fronds of giant palms and surrounding plants. Before leaving, visit a pen with two giant Aldabra tortoises. 

Good to Know.  The park opens at 8:30am but staff will let you in starting at 8am. Bring insect repellant. 

Getting Here.  Take the bus to the Anse Consolation stop. The park entrance is a quick walk away from here.   

Pro Tip.  Buses only pass by every 1-2 hours on this side of the island. Ask the staff at the ticket office for the current bus schedule to plan your departure time accordingly. 

Places to Eat & Drink on Praslin

Leo’s Food.  A beachside takeaway at Côte d’Or Beach. Come here for their Hawaiian fish burger, curry prawns in rice and Takamaka rum & coke. 

Honesty Bar.  A hidden bar nestled in the jungle beyond the western boulders of Anse Lazio Beach. Come here for their Creole Punch made with three shots of Takamaka Rum and your choice of fruit juice. They have the best priced drinks on the beach! 

The Chill Grill.  A beach front takeaway restaurant at Anse Lazio Beach with a range of grilled and fried bites. Come here for their grilled fish and chips! 

Where to Stay on Praslin 

Mountain Lodge.  A two floor house nestled in the lush hillside above Côte d’Or Beach in Anse Volbert Village. The spacious house has two bedrooms, a full kitchen and spacious living area. An outdoor balcony offers views of the coast, perfect for enjoying with a morning coffee. The back patio has a grill for barbecuing and relaxing during the evenings. Reserve on Booking. 

Getting Around Praslin

Praslin Bus.  The public bus on Praslin is the easiest and cheapest way to get around the island. Bus stops are clearly marked on the pavement. Locals and bus drivers are kind and offer to help if unsure of how to get somewhere. Refer to the Praslin Bus Route. The time tables are out of date but the routes are still accurate. 

Good to Know.  It’s prohibited to bring luggage besides hand bags and totes onto the bus. Need to buy a refillable SPTC card to ride the buses. Fares cost 10 SCR. The card can be purchased from convenient stores around the Praslin Ferry Jetty when arriving on the island. We bought ours at Supermarket Kot Merilin. 

Taxis.  As buses don’t allow luggage onboard, taxis are the only option to and from the ferry jetty and most accommodations. Unfortunately, drivers know this and charge a steep price to get anywhere on the island. A single 10 minute ride can cost €25. 

La Digue

La Digue is a small and sleepy tropical island. It’s a picturesque paradise with white sand beaches, swaying palm trees, colorful flowers and iconic granite boulders. Bicycles are the main way of getting around though much of the island can be walked on foot. 

La Passe. The island’s main town. Its sandy cobblestone streets are flanked by lush palm trees and beachy buildings with hotels, tiny home stays, bike rentals, barbecue restaurants and bars. The ferry jetty welcomes new visitors and bids others bon voyage. 

La Digue Beaches & Boulders 

Anse Patates.  A small but idyllic Seychellois beach. Its white sand shore is dappled with shade from leaning palm trees. Dramatic granite boulders flank both sides of the beach. Cerulean waters and white capped waves crash onshore. A small area between two large boulders acts as a natural wave pool. The beach is best to visit during low tide and not the safest for swimming. 

Anse Severe.  A white sand beach with several beachfront shacks serving takeaway meals, fresh fruit juices and cocktails. Its views look across the Indian Ocean towards the nearby Inner Islands. Put on a pair of water shoes and wade out into the rocky shallows to spot sea creatures like rays, parrot fish and sea cucumber. Two Giant Aldabra tortoises lounge alongside sunbathers and stray dogs. 

Anse Source D'Argent.  A photogenic beach with large granite formations, leaning palm trees, soft white sand shores and turquoise hued waters. It’s easily one of the Seychelles most famous beaches. Arrive early to spend the day relaxing on shore and swimming in the vibrant waters. Fruit vendors welcome visitors with free coconuts!

Getting Here.  The beach officially opens at 8am. You have to pay to enter via L’Union Estate. Tickets cost 150 SCR per person. Walk through the estate and its spice gardens past Giant Union Rock and the Aldabra Tortoise pens to reach the scenic seaside beach trail.

Grand Anse & Petite Anse.  Two twin beaches on the south eastern coast of the island. Grand Anse is the larger of the two. Its shore is flanked by dramatic granite rock formations and boulders. The soft and cushiony white sand is perfect for laying out or picnicking. Petite Anse is the smaller of the two beaches, though still sizable, and very similar in scenery. It’s reachable via a trail on the north side of Grand Anse, taking 10 minutes to reach. 

Good to Know.  The waves and currents make it too dangerous to swim. Beware of Portuguese Man of Wars or Bluebottles that wash up onshore. 

Anse Coco.  A remote crescent shaped white sand beach on the south eastern side of the island. Enter the beach on the south end near Coco Bar. There is a protected cove flanked by large boulders at the north end, perfect for sunbathing and swimming. The currents and waves make the remainder of the beach too dangerous for swimming. 

Getting Here.  Anse Coco is reachable via a clearly marked trail leading from the south side of Petite Anse. The tail leads through the forest and over rocks. Keep an eye out for geckos, salamanders, crabs and giant millipedes. It takes between 20-30 minutes to reach. 

Caiman Beach.  A small but swimmable beach protected by rocks. It’s reachable from Anse Coco or by hiking the Marcus Trail at the Coast. There is a small restaurant serving barbecue, fruit juices and cocktails. Beyond the bar are two large tide pools, perfect for lounging in the refreshing waters. 

Marcus Trail at the Coast.  A coastal nature trail on the eastern tip of the island. It leads from the “end of the road” near Anse Fourmis to the Caiman Beach Bar. You have to climb over boulders, through crevices, across platforms and makeshift stairs. Yellow painted arrows help point the correct direction. The trial continues onwards towards Anse Coco, Petite Anse and Grand Anse. 

Places to Eat & Drink on La Digue

Bikini Bottom.  A beach front takeaway at Anse Severe. Come here for a Slow Turtle Cider and admire the Giant Aldabra Tortoises at sunset. 

Rey & Josh Takeaway.  A very affordable Seychellois style takeaway with a small daily menu. Come here for the fish fillet with creole sauce and the fish curry. 

Fruita Cabana Bar.  A rasta themed beachfront fruit stand with vibey music at Anse Source D'Argent. They offer fresh fruit juices, coconuts and iced coffees. Try the coconut candy, fresh coconut garnished with sugar and lime juice!

Ton Greg’s Pizzeria.  A local spot with well sized wood fired pizzas. Try their Seychellois pizza made with smoked fish and red onions.

Coco Bar.  A beachfront takeaway at Coco Beach offering fresh fruit juices and a barbecue lunch buffet. It’s renowned across the island for its delicious selections! They served whole grilled fish, grilled fish steaks, chicken coconut curry, chow main, white rice and salad. Even despite its remote location, dozens of people flock here around noon for a plate. 

Caiman Beach Bar.  A seaside bar on eastern tip of the island. It’s reachable after a 20 minute hike from Coco Beach or 30 minute hike along the Marcus Trail at the Coast. They serve barbecue lunch, crush juices and rum cocktails. Prices here are quite expensive. 

Chez Jules Restaurant.  A Creole restaurant overlooking the island’s eastern coast. They serve Seychellois dishes, seafood, mocktails and Takamaka rum cocktails. We stopped in for drinks while walking around the island. Try the mango daiquiri and Taka Love, a rum and coconut concoction. 

Where to Stay in La Digue

Pension Hibiscus.  A “self catering” style hotel with individual apartment rentals in La Passe. Each unit has a fullt equipped kitchen, private restroom, cozy bedroom and an outdoor patio. It’s within walking distance to the ferry jetty, beaches, grocery stores, restaurants and bars. Reserve on Booking. 

Getting Around La Digue 

La Digue is a very small island, easily navigable on foot, by bike or golf cart. Most hotels provide bikes for guests to use while a few rental agencies near the La Passe ferry terminal rent golf carts and bikes by the day. 

Getting Between Islands

Inner Island Ferries.  Ferries are the best way to get between the Seychelles Inner Islands of Mahe, Prasllin and La Digue. Cat Cocos is the main company operating routes between the islands. Book tickets with Sey Ferry online in advance to secure a seat.

Good to Know.  Do not underestimate the rough seas. Many people began experiencing sea sickness about 20 minutes into the hour long voyage.

Seychelles on a Budget

The Seychelles can be a notoriously expensive destination yet easily visited on a budget. We spent 8 days here, maximizing beach time and stretching our wallet. 

Fruit Stands.  Beaches and roadsides are often dotted with fruit vendors selling freshly harvested tropical fruits. Many offer pressed juices or blended smoothies.

Public Beaches.  The Seychelles are world famous for their pristine beaches. Maximize time exploring the free public beaches. Bring your own snacks and drinks to save money.

Self Catering Stays.  Self Catering Stays refer to any type of guest house or vacation rental with a kitchen. They’re often the most affordable places to stay with space to cook your own meals. 

Take Aways.  If eating out, avoid the expensive restaurants and visit the take aways. They’re small roadside kiosks or food trucks offering affordable meals taken to go. They’re extremely popular with locals and budget travelers. Meals typically cost 100-150 rupee. 

Fish Markets.  Fishing is one of the Seychelles main businesses. Small fish markets are common along the coastal roads with fishermen selling the daily catch and barbecuing your selections for fraction of a restaurant price.

Seychellois Cuisine 

Slow Turtle Cider.  An alcoholic apple cider local to the Seychelles.

Creole Curry.  A mix of spices, tomatoes, onions, garlic, curry leaves, fish and sometimes coconut. 

Smoked Fish Salad.  Smoked fish served with mangos and papaya. 

Grilled Fish.  Red snapper, barracuda or parrot fish grilled over coconut husks. 

Ladob.  Plantain and sweet potatoes boiled with coconut milk, sugar, nutmeg and vanilla. It can be made savory by adding fish. 

Breadfruit. Try it cooked over an open flame, fried, mashed or as chips 

Satini.  A cooked mixture of green papaya and mango cooked with fish and coconut. 

Coconut Candy.  A halved coconut with its meat sliced into bite size pieces and garnished with sugar and lime. Order it from a beachside fruit stand. 

Location Specifics

When to Visit.  We visited the Seychelles in late August, during the peak of the dry season. Expect a mixture of sun, clouds and rain. Plan your beach days and outdoor activities accordingly. 

Language.  Creole, French and English are the three most commonly spoken languages across the Seychelles. Locals are more than happy to talk with visitors, provide recommendations and offer directions. 

Cash vs Card.  Credit card is accepted almost everywhere across the Seychelles. Carry some Seychelles Rupees for time when card machines are down or when buying from small roadside vendors.

Sand Flies.  Sand flies are present on many of the beaches, often landing and crawling around on you while lying out. Thankfully they don’t bite but can become quite the annoyance. 

Mosquitos.  Bring insect repellant. Mosquitos are ever present across the Seychelles, especially in the more jungelous areas and at night.

For Next Time… 

The next time we visit the Seychelles, we plan to continue island hopping and visit a few nearby locations we missed on this trip. 

Silhouette Island.  A large but mostly uninhabited island covered in tropical forest with hiking trails and secluded beaches. 

Curieuse Island.  An island home to Giant Aldabra Tortoises, Coco de Mer Palms, white sand beaches and sea turtles. It’s reachable from Praslin on many island tours. 

St Pierre Island.  A tiny uninhabited island off the coast from Praslin with granite rock formations, palm trees and coral reefs. It’s a popular snorkeling spot. 

Felicite, Coco Island, Grad Soeur & Petitie Soeur.  A grouping of tiny tree covered islands surrounded by underwater marine life and snorkeling areas.